October 2012 Canadian's Guide to Texas

A Canadian’s Guide To

Ridin’ Into Cowboy Culture Sampling Big City Delights Plus: Golf, Tunes & Outdoor Adventure

A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE OCTOBER 2012 ISSUE OF

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A Canadians Guide To

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October 2012 A TEXAS STATE OF MIND

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URBAN PLEASURES

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Sure It’s Wild, But Texas Is Much More Than The Wild West Head to Dallas/Fort Worth & Houston For Modern Art & Mixology

THE GREAT OUTDOORS From Sub-Tropical To Desert Texas Adventure Is Always Big

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TEED OFF IN TEXAS

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WIN, WIN, WIN

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Pleasurable, Surprising & Challenging, Golf In Texas Is Superb Enter To Win A Trip For 2 To Dallas

DEFINITELY UNEXPECTED 15 Rock, Alt & Country Music All Have A Texas Home

A TASTE OF TEXAS

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SADDLE UP

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Tex-Mex, Barbecue, Fine Wines – If You Crave It You Can Find It Here See Cowboy Culture Up Close At Rodeos, Ranches – Even Bars

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TEXAS – A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE OCTOBER 2012 ISSUE OF CANADIAN TRAVELLER Published 12 times a year by

THE DESTINATION SALES RESOURCE FOR TRAVEL PROFESSIONALS

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Contents © 2012 by ACT Communications Inc. All Rights Reserved. ISBN 1207-1463

Written By: Tim Johnson Cover Photo: Sascha Burkard/Shutterstock

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A Texas State of Mind Sure It’s Wild, But Texas Is Much More Than The Wild West

I still remember how I felt just before my first visit to Texas. Motoring westward down Interstate 10, rolling through the scrubby flatlands of western Louisiana, I felt an excitement building inside me. I’d long wanted to visit the Lone Star State. As I neared the state line, a number of rootin’ tootin’ stereotypes played in my head – all rearing horses and six shooters and ten gallon hats. Passing the giant sign welcoming motorists to the state, I was officially there – and almost immediately, the stereotypes started to come true. Houses and businesses bore Lone Star decorations. I passed a park holding some sort of junior rodeo, complete with adorable eight-year-olds in Wranglers and scaled-down Stetsons. Stopping for a bite, I looked around the restaurant, and it seemed that every cowpoke in the joint bore a giant belt buckle. I have definitely arrived in the Texas of my imagination.

But on my multiple trips to the state, I’ve learned that Texas is more than its simplest, most well-known elements.

It is a massive state, bigger than your imagination, and a place with many faces.

Texas is the Wild West state that so many people picture – but it’s much more than that.

Take, for example, San Antonio and South Texas. The birthplace of Tex-Mex cuisine, San Antonio is a fascinating mix of, well, Tex and Mex. Restaurants such as Mi Tierra serve up authentic (and mouth-watering) Sonoran Mexican cuisine, while others

like Texas Land and Cattle, offer more traditional fare – like inch-thick steaks.

The Alamo celebrates the famous fight that took place there, which led to the independent Republic of Texas during the revolution of 1836-1837 (and, unfortunately, took the lives of all the fighters, including Jim Bowie and Davey Crockett), while the nearby Riverwalk, with its slow-moving boats and glittering lights, brings together all the best of the city – margaritas and mariachi bands and

dinners afloat, served up on restaurant boats that ply the waters of the river while diners take in the view over a nice meal and a glass of red.

Head west from there and you hit the Hill Country, a lovely, undulating region centred around Fredericksburg, a charming town that has managed to retain a slightly German feel. And head west of that and you’re in Big Bend Country, a land of wide open spaces, red canyons, dotted with tiny towns – El Paso, on the Mexican border at this region’s extreme western edge, is so far away that it sits in a different time zone than much of the rest of the state.

A west Texas rancher wouldn’t have much in common

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Texas is the Wild West state that so many people picture – but it’s much more than that – it’s a state of mind.

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ZOOM, ZOOM Formula 1 speeds into Austin next month when the United States Grand Prix takes up residence in its new home, The Circuit of the Americas (COTA) in Austin. The first Grand Prix-purposed track and event complex in the U.S., COTA can accommodate around 120,000 fans.

The 3.4-mile track features 20 turns and an elevation change of 130 feet, making it one of the world’s most challenging. The facility also contains a live music stage, conference centre and banquet hall, medical/trauma training section, Karting track, museum and retail centre. www.austintexas.org

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Largest Honkey-Tonk,” a western bar so big that it includes an indoor bull-riding ring and a giant dance floor that hosts hundreds of two-steppers, who move to the sounds of some of the biggest acts in country music.

Head down to Houston and east Texas, and the feeling is, again, completely different. Houston, a sprawling city, is home to NASA’s famous Johnson Space Centre (of “Houston, we have a problem” fame), as well as topflight dining and some of the best shopping in the state. To the east, towns share a Southern-fried feel with their Louisiana neighbours, and just to the south is Galveston, an ocean

FORMULA 1 UNITED STATES

Houston, a sprawling city, is home to NASA’s famous Johnson Space Centre of “Houston, we have a problem” fame.

KENNY BRAUN

with a downtown dweller in Dallas, which, together with Fort Worth, forms the Metroplex, one of the largest metropolitan areas in the United States. Here, traditional Texas charm mixes effortlessly with city sophistication – it’s a place where you can spend one night taking in a performance of the world-class Dallas Symphony Orchestra or, in the summer months, a production of the Shakespeare Festival of Dallas, then head next door to Forth Worth the next night and kick up your heels at Billy Bob’s, which bills itself as the “World’s

Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo.

CALENDAR OF EVENTS In a state as big as Texas, you’re bound to find some great – and sometimes quirky – festivals and live events. Here are a few scheduled for 2013.

Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo, February 25 to March 17: More than just bucking broncos, this multifaceted event drew more than a half million people to its concerts and exhibitions last year.

South By Southwest (SXSW) March 8 to 17: Held in Austin, this famous event brings together live music, indie films and emerging technology.

State Fair of South Texas March 21 to 31: An annual Beaumont event that showcases local arts and handicrafts alongside its rocking midway.

Poteet Strawberry Festival April 12 to 14: One of the oldest, most popular events in Texas, this festival is about more than just strawberries, with Tejano concerts, a carnival, gunslinger shows and, of course, a rodeo.

Great Texas Mosquito Festival July 26 to 28: Held in the small town of Clute, this festival is proud of its status as one of America’s wackiest events – it includes a mosquito calling contest and a mosquito chase, as well as a fajita cook-off.

Bedford Blues and BBQ Festival Labour Day Weekend: This event celebrates smokin’ blues and smoky barbecue, two great Texas traditions.

CRUISE NEWS This winter Galveston welcomes two new cruise lines to its port. Disney Cruise Lines’ Disney Magic, a 2,400-passenger ship, offers seven-day Caribbean cruises, calling at Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands; Costa Maya, Mexico; and Cozumel, Mexico. In December, Princess Cruises’ Crown Princess, a 3,080-passenger ship, will begin sevenday cruises out of Galveston with stops in Cozumel, Mexico; Roatan, Honduras; Belize City, Belize; and Costa Maya, Mexico. www.galveston.com

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The audio tour of Dallas showcases one of North America’s only intentionally created artists’ communities, the Dallas Arts District. With 40 years of history to review, your walk will take you to galleries, museums, churches, anywhere with a history of inspiration, and always provide you with the site’s rich history.

Their guide to Austin, a city often called the live music capital of the world, offers a stimulating narration of the musical culture. Walk Congress Avenue and take in both local landmarks and a parade of musical performers so varied it could only be found in Austin.

In San Antonio, the history comes first.

Between major civil war landmarks, a world famous haunted hotel, and Teddy Roosevelt’s favourite watering hole, the San Antonio audio guide is sure to please any American history buff.

TEXAS SHOPS No matter what type of shopping experience travellers are seeking, they are sure to find it in the Lone Star State’s premier shopping malls, historic small towns or hip urban shopping districts.

Dallas: With the country’s most shopping centres per capita, Dallas is a no-brainer for avid shoppers. Be sure to check out the Neiman Marcus, NorthPark and Dallas Galleria shopping centres.

Fort Worth: Fort Worth embraces its cowboy heritage with the Fort Worth Stockyards

CIA IN SAN ANTONIO San Antonio is home to a campus of the Culinary Institute of America.

Aside from courses geared towards professional chefs, the CIA San Antonio campus offers hands-on classes for food enthusiasts and home cooks of all levels, ranging from one-day classes on Saturdays all the way up to five-day CIA Culinary Boot Camps. Topics include Baking at Home, Gourmet Meals in Minutes, and Regional Mexican Cuisine. www.ciachef.edu/texas/

STEPHANIE COLGAN/SACVB

Travel Texas is now providing Audio Walking Tours of Houston, Dallas, Austin, San Antonio, Corpus Christi and Fort Worth where you can discover local landmarks, museums and historic sites like The Alamo in San Antonio.

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ELIZA PAGE

Take a guided tour of Texas – minus the tour guide.

Travel Texas is now providing Audio Walking Tours, freely downloadable podcasts to be played while walking communities in Houston, Dallas, Austin, San Antonio, Corpus Christi and Fort Worth. These pausable, replayable guides ensure you’ll never miss a local highlight again!

Known for its numerous small, unique neighbourhoods, Austin also boasts world-class strip malls and shopping centres.

TEXAS OCTOBER 2012 CANADIAN TRAVELLER 30

DAVID SWANSON/SACVB

TEXAS IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND

National Historic District, one of the country’s best sources for cowboy fashions.

Houston: From the consumer goods stores of the Premium Outlets to the charming small businesses of The Village, Houston has barely a street without somewhere to stop and shop.

Austin: Known for its numerous small, unique neighbourhoods, Austin also boasts world-class strip malls and shopping centres including the all-new Arboretum.

San Antonio: Shopping in San Antonio focuses on personality, from outdoor shopping villages to a mall with a river running through it. San Antonio offers shoppers a smaller, unique experience.

playground that also features a wellpreserved historic district, where gaslights burn and horse-drawn carriages clip-clop down the main streets.

Right in the centre of the state sits Austin, the state capital, with a legislature that resembles the one over in Washington, D.C., but whose dome, residents are quick to point out, is actually higher. It’s a city with a lot to offer. Home to the University of Texas, the city welcomes tens of thousands of fans during Saturdays in the fall to cheer on their gridiron heroes – decked out in burnt orange, the Longhorns are one of the finest and most popular college football teams in the country, playing a sport that is passionately beloved by most Texans.

In contrast, Austin is also home to one of the finest and most diverse music scenes in the nation, from its small, intimate downtown clubs to internationally renowned festivals, including both Austin City Limits and South by Southwest.

But even looking at all of its different regions, Texas remains tough to define.

It is the small dance hall you find in a nowhere town like Luckenbach. It’s the warm welcome you receive when you attend your first rodeo. It’s the unpaved ranch road that you use to drive west, stretching to the horizon and seemingly going forward forever. Texas is a state. But it’s also a state of mind.

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Dallas boasts a gleaming urban core that rivals any in the U.S.

Urban Pleasures Head to Dallas/Fort Worth & Houston For Modern Art & Mixology

Growing up, I was a big fan of the mega-hit ‘80s serial soap Dallas, so I recognized the city’s iconic skyline – featured heavily in the show’s opener – immediately on my first visit to the city. But, much to my surprise, the Dallas I visited offered a lot more than oil barons and scandalous romance – gliding downtown on its clean, modern public transit system, I arrived at an urban core that rivals any in the United States, in terms of its cultural, culinary and artistic offerings. And walking from Dealey Plaza to the Arts District, there was no sign of J.R.

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Although the stereotypical Texas scene involves barns, windmills, longhorn steers and pickup trucks – and there’s certainly plenty of that in the Lone Star State – it’s also one of the most populous states in the union, with a number of major metropolitan centres where urban pleasures beckon. And that happy reality is most evident in the state’s two largest cities – the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex, and Houston. Here are some of their best attractions.

GREATER HOUSTON CVB

KENNY BRAUN

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Whether you love or loathe country music, Billy Bob’s is worth a visit, if just to see the spectacle of two-steppin’ cowboys and indoor bull riders.

Young minds thrive at the Children’s Museum of Houston, which has been named the top children’s museum in the United States.

The Kimbell Art Museum in Fort Worth is home to the only Michelangelo painting in North America, as well as major works by Rembrandt, Goya, Monet and Picasso.

DALLAS/FORT WORTH

Arts & Culture: If you’re a lover of the performing arts, check out the Dallas Symphony Orchestra at the Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center – from the classics like Beethoven and Mahler to fun offerings like movie screenings scored live, renowned conductor Jaap Van Zweden both entertains and edifies.

One of the finest galleries in the country, the Dallas Museum of Art (DMA) anchors the Dallas Arts District, which is home to

13 different cultural institutions. With more than 25,000 items, the DMA has a vast collection that ranges over 5,000 years of human history, and includes everything from an esteemed goup of Congo sculpture to a huge amount of American and European decorative arts.

Another highlight of the Arts District, the 2.4 hectare Nasher Sculpture Centre is a roofless museum that displays masterpieces from Gaugin, Rodin, Matisse and many others.

For something different, visit the Meadows Museum, which displays the largest collection of Spanish works outside of Spain.

Over in Fort Worth, the Amon Carter Museum of American Art boasts an impressive array of western art, sculpture and photography, while the Kimbell Art Museum in that city is home to the only Michelangelo painting in North America, as well as major works by Rembrandt, Goya, Monet and Picasso.

Nightlife: While Dallas is best known for cowboys – and the Cowboys – the city has long been home to a rich African American culture, and its hub, Deep Ellum (centered on Elm St.), is home to great little clubs frequented by a twenty-something crowd (Ellum, by the way, is Elm spelled out phonetically, as it would be said with a Southern drawl).

“Best of” picks are always a good bet.

Head to The Dram, part of the city’s Knox-Henderson neighbourhood – and a favourite of those looking to go out at night. Selected by D magazine as the city’s best lounge, you can choose from an extensive list of whiskies and Champagnes,

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TEXAS OCTOBER 2012 CANADIAN TRAVELLER 34

HOUSTON

Arts & Culture: With 18 separate cultural institutions, Houston’s Museum District draws almost nine million visitors every year to its pedestrian-friendly, tree-lined streets. Of particular note is the Museum of Fine Art, the largest art museum in the Southwest, which boasts an extremely diverse collection that includes more than 60,000 works from six continents, from Japanese ceramics to American 19th-century landscape painting to one of the foremost offerings of post-World War II Brazilian constructive art; and even encompasses some lovely outdoor gardens at Bayou Bend, a 5.6-hectare site that belongs to the museum and sits about eight kilometres from the main campus.

Founded more than 60 years ago, the Alley Theatre is a Houston institution, presenting a wide variety of productions, from classics to musical theatre to the recently rediscovered and the rarely performed, with an emphasis on new American works.

Young minds thrive at the Children’s Museum of Houston, which was recently expanded to twice its former size and has been named the top children’s museum in the United States.

Nightlife: Houston’s downtown and midtown feature an eclectic mix of cool spots, from rollicking music at Pete’s Dueling Piano Bar and the nonstop party

KENNY BRAUN

then relax on the sexy velvet furniture.

Or if you’re a cocktail lover, check out The Cedars Social, which boasts one of the nation’s leading mixologists, and was selected by the same publication for the honour of “best cocktails.”

Sometimes known as the place “where the west begins,” the Fort Worth Stockyards are the real deal, a National Historic District and former livestock market that dates back to 1866. In addition to attractions like the Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame and the only twice-daily cattle drive on earth, the Stockyards are also a great place to spend an evening. Load up on some barbecue, smoked low and slow the way that pulled pork shoulder and brisket should be, then dance it off at the World’s Largest Honkey Tonk. Whether you love or loathe country music, Billy Bob’s is worth a visit, if just to see the spectacle of two-steppin’ cowboys and indoor bull riders.

The 2.4 hectare Nasher Sculpture Centre in Dallas is a roofless museum that displays masterpieces from Gaugin, Rodin, Matisse and many others.

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at Howl at the Moon, or slow it down for some romance at La Carafe.

Washington Avenue is one of the city’s prime nightlife districts – bust a move at Ei8ght, or sit back for cocktails and a snack at Soma Sushi.

If you’re feeling like a chill night and a glass of wine, head to River Oaks and West University. Here, you’ll find patios, like the second-floor space at the Cha Champagne and Wine Bar, as well as cool little pubs like Little Woodrow’s and The Volcano, and sweet indie spots like Marfreless – but on the last one, you’ll have to look carefully, as it doesn’t have a sign (the message: you’re in, if you can find it).

The alternative crowd loves Montrose, where the streets teem with both hipsters and drag queens – check out the unique cocktails created with homemade liquors at the Anvil Bar and Refuge, or head to Poison Girl for slam poetry and a little oldschool pinball.

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The Great Outdoors

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From Sub-Tropical To Desert Texas Adventure Is Always Big

South Padre Island is one of those surprising places that you often, unexpectedly, find in Texas.

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TEXAS OCTOBER 2012 CANADIAN TRAVELLER 36

LESLIE SPUL OCK

South Padre Island is one of those surprising places that you often, unexpectedly, find in Texas. Walking along the beach, I take in the scene: sand stretching as far as the eye can see, bikini-clad women tanning all along the beach, paragliders soaring through the air just offshore, and a beautiful, hot sun beating down on it all. One might mistake this place for a destination deep down in the Caribbean, but South Padre, a barrier island in the Gulf of Mexico in South Texas is very much a part the Lone Star State, a place not so far from Austin and easily drivable from San Antonio – a subtropical destination that can be easily combined with other great attractions in the state.

Soft sand guards the shore and gentle waves roll in from South and North Padre to Port Aransas (near Corpus Christi) to Galveston (near Houston).

Texas is a great place to get outdoors, with diverse landscapes, a warm-tohot year-round climate, and 1,000 kilometres of coastline – which means that South Padre isn’t the only great beach in the state. Soft sand guards the shore and gentle waves roll in from South and North Padre to Port Aransas (near Corpus Christi) to Galveston (near Houston). At any of these destinations, you can embark on big oceanic adventures, including deepsea fishing for kingfish, blackfin tuna and vermillion snapper, paddling through the waves in a sea kayak, or just kicking back with a drink in hand, on a hammock in a shady spot.

And for those who feel comfortable in a pair of hiking boots, the rusty landscapes of west Texas provide all that outdoorsy types can handle. Big Bend National Park covers more than 3,000 square kilometres – more than half the size of Prince Edward Island, and larger than the state of Rhode Island – and includes both hardcore trails and pleasant day-hikes. For the former, check out the Outer

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Visitors who have climbed at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area note it often gives off a magical, mystical feel.

According to local legend, a spell cast upon it makes fires glow at the top.

Mountain Loop, a 48-kilometre, threeday trek through the high country of the Chisos Mountains, a route that traverses the south rim of the range and takes in 160-kilometre views, while for the latter, the park features a number of small nature walks that will give a great taste of the stunning, remote beauty of the park – no backpack required.

Texas is also home to an impressive network of state parks, accessible places where you can get outside and use topnotch facilities for a reasonable price. At Enchanted Rock State Natural Area in the Hill Country, you can scale the summit of this dramatic, red rock, a 130-metre pink granite batholith which, according to local legend, had a spell cast upon it to make fires glow at the top – and visitors who have climbed it note that it often gives off a magical, mystical feel. At Franklin Mountains State Park, you can gear up and take on the largest sustained mountain range in Texas (the Franklins), with established rock climbing areas in the McKelligan Canyon portion of the park.

And at Lake Mineral Wells State Park and Trailway, just west of Fort Worth, you can ride a bicycle along the 32-kilometre trailway, a former railway bed, or spend some time in the lake, swimming, fishing (largemouth bass and channel cats are both common), or paddling – canoes and kayaks are both available for rent.

KENNY BRAUN

Big Bend National Park features a number of small nature walks that will give a great taste of the stunning, remote beauty of the park – no backpack required.

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Definitely Unexpected

Rock, Alt & Country Music All Have A Texas Home

Climbing up into the picturesque Hill Country near San Antonio, I was impressed by many things: the tidy, beautiful, Bavarian-esque town of Fredericksburg; the arid hills and dales; the beautiful country homes. But I have to admit that I didn’t expect much from Luckenbach. Told by a friend to visit, I, with some difficulty, found this campy little hamlet, out in the middle of nowhere, a small cluster of buildings anchored by a dance hall. While I made the mistake of visiting during the day – night is when this place really heats up – I was still pleased to stroll around its wooden dance floor, and consider the facts presented to me: that this tiny spot, far from the city, has hosted country music greats, served as the site where the Guinness World Record for most guitar pickers in one place (1,868) was set, and was even immortalized in a big hit song, sung together by Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson: Luckenbach, Texas (Back to the Basics of Love). without bringing Austin – the selfproclaimed “live music capital of the world” – into the conversation. Home to major festivals (including South by Southwest) and tiny little clubs, Austin is always a great place for a hot night out. Head to Stubb’s Bar-B-Q for great indie and alt music – not to mention excellent barbecue – all of it presented (and consumed) in an outdoor setting, or to Antone’s over on 5th Street for a laidback vibe (the place has hosted everyone from Eric Clapton to B.B. King), or even to Emo’s, which often sports a tattooed crowd for alt country, punk and metal shows – definitely not something you might expect in the heart of the Texas capital.

The Texas Country Music Hall of Fame, in the little town of Carthage, honours everyone from Tex Ritter to Kris Kristofferson and The Whites.

TXDOT

You definitely can’t talk about Texas music without talking about Austin – especially places like Stubb’s Bar-B-Q where you’ll find great indie and alt music – not to mention excellent barbecue.

early age as just Buddy – grew up playing the guitar, four-string banjo and the lap steel guitar, singing in talent competitions and recording songs before he turned 15.

Signed to a contract that misspelled his last name “Holly” in 1956, the young man was off on a meteoric rise that included hit songs like Peggy Sue, Oh Boy! and, of course, That’ll be the Day. His career, of course, was cut short far too soon, with a fateful plane crash that also took the lives of Ritchie Valens and the Big Bopper on “the day the music died.”

But his music and legacy are preserved and celebrated at the Buddy Holly Center in Lubbock. Housed in a historic railway depot, the Center showcases an extensive collection of Holly memorabilia in a gallery which, appropriately enough, is shaped like a guitar.

And you definitely can’t talk about Texas music

KENNY BRAUN

Only in Texas. Anywhere else, a place like Luckenbach would probably be a forgotten backwater, but this is a state that’s absolutely saturated with music. Here, rough and tough cowboys unabashedly two-step to the sounds of western swing, and every little town in Texas seems to have a dance hall. Big events like the world-famous Houston Rodeo host some of the brightest stars in the genre, and there’s even a Texas Country Music Hall of Fame, in the little town of Carthage, which honours everyone from Tex Ritter to Kris Kristofferson and The Whites. And small town dance halls, like Luckenbach, are a great tradition in this state, including the famous Gruene Hall in New Braunfels, built way back in 1878 and known as the oldest continually run dance hall in Texas (it has hosted everyone from George Strait to Townes Van Zandt).

But while most people’s first impulse is to think country, Texas also gave birth to one of the greatest legends in rock ’n’ roll history. Born in Lubbock in 1936, Charles Hardin Holley – known from an

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PHOTOS: KENNY BRAUN

A Taste of Texas

Mi Tierra is a culinary juggernaut and one of the best Mexican restaurants in the United States, open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Tex-Mex, Barbecue, Fine Wines – If You Crave It You Can Find It Here It was definitely love at first bite. Settled in front of my plate at Mi Tierra in San Antonio – taking up an entire city block on the city’s Market Square, Mi Tierra is a culinary juggernaut and one of the best Mexican restaurants in the United States, open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, with its own tortilla factory on site – each and every one of the foods that I consumed, from enchiladas overflowing with cheese to tacos so delicious that my mouth still waters at the memory, felt like the best thing I’d ever tasted in my life. And, typical of a state where every meal seems to come with a story, I’m told that the restaurant has been an integral part of the Mexican-American community in San Antonio – a city that feels like it’s equal parts Tex and Mex– since its founding back in 1941, with a giant mural on the wall that depicts important figures in that community throughout the 20th century.

In Texas, food isn’t just about sustenance – it’s a passion, and it’s something that often has a fascinating backstory.

Take, for example, the Texas Barbecue Trail – truly a great itinerary for a tasty summer road trip. Slicing through the heart of the state, which also happens to be the heartland of Texas’ best barbecue, an area settled by Eastern and Central European immigrants in the 19th century, who brought along their meatsmoking techniques, the Trail takes in four rural towns – Taylor, Elgin, Luling and Lockhart. Two great spots along the way: Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor, a James Beard Award-winner that serves its brisket in butcher paper in a smoky room decorated with neon beer signs (authenticity at its best), and Smitty’s Market in Lockhart, where the food is so good, the line usually stretches right out the door.

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But this state also has a taste for the finer things, including a good glass of vino. The Hill Country near San Antonio features a great wine trail, and the area boasts more than 30 wineries, many of them with tasting rooms, set among its rolling hills and picturesque towns. At Grape Creek Vineyards, visitors can take a cellar tour and enjoy tastings in their Italian Villa tasting room (the winery bills itself as “Tuscany in Texas”). At Fiesta Winery, set along the banks of the Colorado River, a family-owned ranch that dates back six generations has been converted into a winery, but vestiges of the old homestead remain, including a display of family cowboy boots and a historic outhouse. And at Becker Vineyards, their Bordeaux, Burgundian, and Rhone-styled wines are paired with delectable fare (it’s also noteworthy that their wines have been served in the White House).

TEXAS OCTOBER 2012 CANADIAN TRAVELLER 40

And if you’re looking for a little fine dining, Texas has plenty. Take an elegant dinner cruise along the San Antonio River, or stay on dry land and visit one of the city’s many excellent Mexican and Tex Mex restaurants (San Antonio is, after all, the birthplace and home of Tex Mex cuisine). Or dine at Congress in Austin, which was recently named the best new restaurant in the state by Texas Monthly magazine, a secluded spot that serves up locally sourced, nose-to-tail meals.

And what’s more typical of Texas than a tender hunk of beef? For that, head to Pappas Bros. – with locations in Houston and Dallas, it’s often regarded as the best steakhouse in the whole state.

At Becker Vineyards, their noteworthy Bordeaux, Burgundian, and Rhone-styled wines (they have been served in the White House) are paired with delectable fare.

TYLER VANCE

YOUR CHANCE TO EXPERIENCE TEXAS

Win A Trip For 2 To Dallas, Texas

So much more than it’s tv reputation, Dallas is a place of big entertainment: world-class museums; amazing attractions; and the Cowboys. Here’s your chance to see it for yourself.

The Prize:

• 5 nights at the Warwick Melrose Hotel, Dallas • 2 tickets and one parking pass from Dallas Fan Fares • 2 tickets to the Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza • 1 Family Fun Pack from the Dallas Zoo that includes: -Two (2) adult admission tickets -Two (2) youth admission tickets -Four (4) free-ride coupons for the Monorail Safari Tour -Four (4) free-ride coupons for the Endangered Species Carousel

Questions 1. The Kimbell Art Museum in Fort Worth is home to the only ________________________ painting in North America, as well as major works by Rembrandt, Goya, Monet and Picasso.

2. Texas is also home to an impressive network of _____________________, accessible places where you can get outside and use top-notch facilities for a reasonable price.

3. You definitely can’t talk about Texas music without bringing _____________________ – the self-proclaimed “live music capital of the world” – into the conversation.

4. Taking up an entire city block on the city’s Market Square, Mi Tierra is a culinary juggernaut and ___________________________________ in the United States, open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

5. The best way to experience the Texas west is to immerse yourself in it at a dude ranch, where you can ______________________________ and live out your cowboy or cowgirl dreams.

6. From vibrant fairways that run past the red, sunbaked badlands of west Texas to the sultry, Southern plantation courses in the east, the Lone Star State is home to ___________________________________ where you can get your swing on.

COMPLETE ALL INFORMATION AND FAX TO 866-562-4405 OR VISIT WWW.CANADIANTRAVELLER.NET/CONTESTS Name: ____________________________________________

Postal Code: ________________ Tel: ____________________

Company: _________________________________________

E-mail: ____________________________________________

Address: ___________________________________________

Fax: ______________________________________________

City:_____________________ Prov: ____________________

Signature: __________________________________________

Terms & Conditions 1. To enter the contest, the entrant must be a resident of Canada who has reached the age of majority in the province in which he/she resides, who is not an employee of, a member of the immediate family of, or domiciled with an employee of ACT Communications Inc., its agents or distributors, or any of the prize donors. Contest is not valid in any jurisdiction where prohibited by law. Odds of winning are contingent upon the number of entries received.

2. Entrants must complete all questions, and include their name, telephone number and signature.

3. Mail or fax entries to “Texas Contest” Canadian Traveller, 201-2080 Hartley Avenue, Coquitlam, BC V3K 6W5. Fax: 1-866-562-4405. Entries must be received by January 31, 2013.

4. The draw will be made February 15, 2013 from all correct entries received. All questions must be answered. The solutions can be found in A Canadian’s Guide To Texas.

5. One prize will be awarded consisting of 5 nights at the Warwick Melrose Hotel, Dallas; admission for 2 to a Dallas Cowboys game, plus 1 parking pass; admission for 2 to the 6th Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza; 1 Family Pack from the Dallas Zoo. 6. The prized redemption dates will be provided to the winner. Prize must be accepted as awarded, is not redeemable for cash and is not transferable.

7. The winner will be advised by telephone during the week of February 15, 2013 and announced in the April issue of Canadian Traveller.

8. All entries become property of Canadian Traveller, which assumes no responsibility for printing error or lost or misdirected entries. No communication will be entered into except with the winning entrant.

9. One entry per person. Duplicate entries will be disqualified.

FORT WORTH CVB

In Texas, everything – from the ubiquitous pickup trucks and belt buckles to the ranch roads stretching far to the horizon – seems to have been touched by the true west.

Saddle Up

See Cowboy Culture Up Close At Rodeos, Ranches – Even Bars

I had never seen anything like it. These were no mechanical bulls. I had come to Billy Bob’s – “the World’s Largest Honkey Tonk” – to take in a concert by an up-and-coming country artist and, before the show got underway, took a little time to stroll around and explore this vast place. After walking past the long bar and the swirling two-steppers, I – incredulous at the sight – found an indoor bull riding ring, right inside this place, which is ostensibly a nightclub but clearly offers more than music and dancing. Settling onto the metal bleachers, I watched a real rodeo, with bulls – their riders hanging on for dear life – bucking out of a chute just across the way, and cowboys and cowgirls in the stands around me, eagerly cheering on their favourites. You’d never find that at a nightclub in New York.

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TEXAS OCTOBER 2012 CANADIAN TRAVELLER 42

NORM JONES

J GRIFFIS SMITH/TXDOT

The best way to experience the Texas west is to stay at a dude ranch, where you can get on a horse and live out your cowboy dreams.

Or if you prefer to leave the cowboy antics to the professionals, make sure to take in a rodeo.

In Texas, everything – from the ubiquitous pickup trucks and belt buckles to the ranch roads stretching far to the horizon – seems to have been touched by the true west. It’s a state of wide-open spaces where a cowboy hat never seems out of place, whether on the farm or in a big city of several million, and where a pair of Wranglers can be seen far more often than a finely pressed suit.

And perhaps the best way to experience the Texas west is to immerse yourself in it at a dude ranch, where you can get on the back of a horse and live out your cowboy or cowgirl dreams. For example, the Mayan Dude Ranch near Bandera – the so-called Cowboy Capital of the World – allows you to roam the range on its 103-hectare property, starting the day with a trail ride to a breakfast cookout, and finishing it with Texas barbecue ribs and brisket, as well as live music and country dancing. And at the family friendly Flying L Guest Ranch, trail rides along a riverbed and a junior cowboy Olympics competition are paired with activities that will please families looking for more traditional recreation options alongside their western experiences, with a waterpark, 18-hole golf course, putt-putt, and arts and crafts programs.

Or if you prefer to leave the cowboy antics to the professionals, make sure to take in a rodeo, the most famous of which is the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo. A massive event that draws hundreds of thousands of visitors

every year, the Houston Rodeo boasts a full slate of events, from bucking bulls and broncos to tie-down roping, steer wrestling and a kid-friendly calf scramble. There’s also a vast array of food competitions, agricultural exhibits and A-list concerts and hands-on activities. But if you want something a little more local, head to a small town

event like the Taylor Annual Rodeo.

Known as an “open rodeo,” this event, held every year since 1950, encourages crowd participation in events like steer saddling, and the riders and ropers in the ring are rarely professionals, but rather ranchers and residents from the area – prizes are small, and are sometimes limited to bragging rights.

™

When it comes to variety and fun, Odessa, Texas is the right place to be.

From our replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and our exciting professional sports teams to the vintage World War II aircraft of the Commemorative Air Force and the historic White Pool House, Odessa has it all. Plus there are three national parks within hours of Odessa: Big Bend, Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad Caverns.

With top quality hotels, fine restaurants and wonderful shopping, Odessa is the right place in Texas for your next vacation.

Find out more by calling 1-432-333-7871, or visit our website www.odessacvb.com Odessa Convention and Visitors Bureau 700 N. Grant Suite 200 • Odessa, Texas 79761 1-800-780-HOST

43 CANADIAN TRAVELLER OCTOBER 2012 TEXAS

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Teed Off In Texas Pleasurable, Surprising & Challenging, Golf In Texas Is Superb

TPC/SACVB

Teeing off in a state as diverse – culturally, and geographically – as Texas is a pleasurable and often surprising experience. From vibrant fairways that run past the red, sunbaked badlands of west Texas to the sultry, Southern plantation courses in the east, the Lone Star State is home to more than 800 places where you can get your swing on. And with some of the top-ranked courses in the nation, in Texas it’s not just about quantity, but also world-class quality.

For the ultimate Texas challenge, head to the site of the biggest annual golf event in the state of Texas – the Valero Texas Open, played every year at the AT&T Oaks Course at TPC San Antonio

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TEXAS OCTOBER 2012 CANADIAN TRAVELLER 44

Fazio Foothills is a great place to start. Ranked as one of the Top Five courses in the nation by Golfweek magazine (and noted by PGA.com as one of the best courses in the state that’s open to the public), this Austin course, part of Barton Creek Resort & Spa, is as picturesque as it is challenging, with a layout that includes waterfalls, natural limestone caves and cliffs that directly abut the fairways. A par 72, 7,125-yard masterpiece designed by renowned course architect Tom Fazio, a number of the holes here have been recognized as among the most beautiful in the state,

including number 12, a classic riskreward par 4 with a green guarded by two deep pot bunkers and backed by Barton Creek itself, and the final hole, 18, a par 5 that gives those who carry a shot over an abandoned bat cave a very good chance at landing their next shot on the canyon-fronted, elevated green with just a wedge. Then clean up and enjoy a hearty meal in the beautiful Barton Country Dining Room, followed by a cigar and a cocktail in a rocking chair out on the patio, under a big Texas sky.

Those who have dreamt of PGA glory should head to Humble, Texas, near Houston, home of Tour 18.

MARTY SNORTUM

TXDOT

From vibrant fairways that run past the red, sunbaked badlands of west Texas to the sultry, Southern plantation courses in the east, the Lone Star State is home to more than 800 places where you can get your swing on.

Here, the most famous holes in the United States have been meticulously replicated, including Amen Corner at Georgia’s Augusta National Golf Club (three holes make up Augusta’s Amen, numbers 11, 12 and 13, which here are replicated on holes 5, 6 and 7). Augusta’s 13, also known as “Azalea,” is perhaps the most renowned single hole in golf, where Byron Nelson clinched his first green jacket back in 1937 by chipping in for eagle, and where, more recently, Tiger Woods lit up the 2001 Masters by birdying the hole on both of his final two rounds, leading to his first major championship. Tour 18’s hole number 13 replicates number 14 at Pebble Beach, an American icon and a par 5 so difficult that Arnold Palmer once shot a regretful nine on it, while Tour 18’s hole number 9 replicates the island green at number 17 on TPC Sawgrass in Florida – a picturesque, watery hole that can turn into a watery

The Ultimate Canadian Triple Play for the Perfect Night.

10% off in the elegant Library Bar

15% off in Landmark Restaurant

20% off a luxurious Classic Guest Room

Create a line-up that’s right for you at one of Dallas’ favorite landmarks—Warwick Melrose Hotel, Dallas.

Whether highballs in our popular bar, gourment cuisine in our four-diamond restaurant or an overnight stay so delightful you’ll never want to leave, you’ll feel like a winner when you spend time here.

Offer good until December 31, 2013, use code word CANADA when making your reservation. Based on availability.

Blackout dates apply. May not be combined with any other offer. Room discount is off best available use.

3015 Oak Lawn | Dallas, TX 75219 | 214.521.5151 | www.warwickmelrosedallas.com |

45 CANADIAN TRAVELLER OCTOBER 2012 TEXAS

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course, the Old American – co-designed by 12-time PGA winner Justin Leonard – aims to take golfers back in time, to the sport’s golden age in the first few decades of the 20th century. The 18-hole layout has been ranked in Golfweek’s Top Ten Best Courses You Can Play; it starts and finishes at the old-world Carriage House (a warm, welcoming place designed to make you feel like you’re visiting an old friend), and integrates lovely Lewisville Lake on several holes, as well as an abundance of wildlife, such as coyotes, deer, wild turkeys and even Red Tail Hawks, which nest in the towering oak trees that line the fairways.

And while the focus is certainly old school, there are definitely modern amenities here, including an advanced, in-cart GPS system – and several refreshment stations along the way.

But for the ultimate Texas challenge, head to the site of the biggest annual golf event in the state of Texas – the Valero Texas Open – which every year is played at the AT&T Oaks Course at TPC San Antonio, part of larger JW Marriott Hill Country complex (which offers stay and play packages at the course).

Designed by legendary golfer Greg Norman – with input from energetic upstart Sergio Garcia – the Oaks plays a long 7,522-yards, a par 72. It’s an undulating, difficult layout, with ragged bunkers and narrow fairways that place a premium on long, well-aimed drives. The enticement to take a slice

out of this course will be even stronger in 2013 with the Texas Open moving to an enviable time slot in early April, serving as the unofficial tune-up for the Masters, which will take place on the following weekend, and thus attracting some of the game’s top talent to TPC San Antonio – giving weekend hackers here an opportunity to tread the same greens as golf’s very best. For serious (or even casual) golfers, there are few thrills that match it.

Barton Creek Resort & Spa is home to Fazio Foothills, ranked as on of the Top Five courses in the US by Golfweek magazine.

AUSTIN CVB

hell with an errant shot, and has long bedeviled the top-flight golfers in The Players Championship, one of the PGA’s signature events.

But if you’re looking for something unique and different, then definitely check out Painted Dunes, which sits way out west, in arid, far-flung El Paso.

Closer to Phoenix than Houston, El Paso is in the heart of the Chihuahuan Desert; with views of the rugged, rustcoloured Franklin Mountains, featuring elevated, bent grass greens surrounded by intimidating bunkers, the desertstyle links at Painted Dunes are unlike anything else in the state. With three courses (East, West and North), there’s plenty of variety, and despite the dry climate, the course still manages to work in a good amount of geographic variety, which adds to the challenge – hole number 2 on the West course, for example, is dominated by a large pond down the left side of the fairway, while the dogleg final hole on the North course squeezes those with a long drive between a water hazard on the left and fairway bunkers on the right. With rates as low as $27 for 18 holes, this is definitely one of the best deals in all of west Texas.

And those who value a beautiful view and an interesting experience as much as a challenging course should definitely take a swing at the Old American Golf Club in The Colony, part of the Dallas/ Forth Worth Metroplex. A relatively new

GREATER HOUSTON CVB

The most famous holes in the United States have been meticulously replicated at Tour 18, from Amen Corner at Georgia’s Augusta National Golf Club, to number 14 at Pebble Beach and number 17 on TPC Sawgrass in Florida.

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TEXAS OCTOBER 2012 CANADIAN TRAVELLER 46

Unwind inTexas. To plan your ownTexas adventure or to order your FREE Texas State Travel Guide, Accommodations Guide and Texas Map, visit Travel Tex.com.

Discover Where the

REAL WEST Begins.

Explore the City of Cowboys and Culture!

CITY OF COWBOYS AND CULTURE

In only a few days, you can enjoy an enormous range of experiences – from art to animals, from fashion to family fun. See priceless masterpieces in the renowned Cultural District.

Discover the true American West and view the world’s only twice-daily cattle drive in the Stockyards National Historic District. Shop and dine in the 35-block Sundance Square, one of the most exciting downtown areas in the nation. Visit Texas Motor Speedway, home to NASCAR and IndyCar races or play a round of golf at some of the finest greens in the nation. Just minutes from DFW International Airport, Fort Worth is the only city where cowboys and culture happily coexist.

To request a complimentary Visitor Guide, please visit www.FortWorth.com FACEBOOK facebook.com/Ft.Worth

TWITTER twitter.com/VisitFortWorth