CARVED IN BLUE® Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 HARDWEAR - 01 OVERALL

2018CLL003

01 – OVERALL

FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION

– PRESS RELEASE –

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019

H A R DW E A R A COLL ABORATIVE PROJECT BE TWEEN LENZING x J E A N O LO GIA ® x E N DRIME ® Made at B L ACK H O RSE L A N E AT E LIE RS

This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ®.

“This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made -up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes.

The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

2018CLL003

01 – OVERALL

FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2 History of the Overall Although still worn in industry and agriculture, denim bib or dungaree overalls are now inextricably linked in the public imagination with the Great Depression era of the 1930s. This is largely because of the documentary photographic work of the likes of Dorothea Lange and Mike Disfarmer, but also through cinematic representations of the time, such as John Ford’s movie of John Steinbeck’s 1939 novel The Grapes of Wrath.

The bib-and-brace overall , overall , or dungaree was a type of garment usually used as protective clothing when working. [1] The term for this clothing was always the plural term overalls, as in “a pair of overalls” and was never the singular “overall.”

Overalls were introduced about 1750 as a protective article of clothing intended to prevent work related wear and tear to breeches and stockings, which were the standard clothing items required by fashion at the time. The “trowsers” of the day were very loose, reached only to the upper calf, and were basically only worn by “sailormen.”

Overalls were originally made of denim, but since then they have also be made of corduroy or chino cloth.

Overalls were invented in the 1890s by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis at Levi Strauss & Co., but they went through an evolution to reach their modern form.

The exact beginnings of the wearing of overalls are unclear, but they are mentioned in literature as early as 1776 as a protective working garment commonly worn by slaves.

The first evidence of overalls being mass-produced are those made by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis in the 1890s. The first “jeans” they invented were actually overalls (“waist overalls” or “waist-high overalls”), consisting of suspenders attached to denim pants with buttons. There was no top part with a bib.

[2] From the beginning, denim overalls were popular workers’ garments due to their durability. In fact, Levi, Strauss & Co.’s slogan in the 1880s-1890s was “Never Rip, Never Tear.”[3]

In 1911, Harry David Lee made the first bib overalls, made of pants with pockets with a bib and straps over the shoulders.

In 1927, Lee developed a “hookless fastener” and created “buttonless” overalls. Zippers replaced buttons. Soon after, Suspender buttons were traded in for belt loops to attach overthe-shoulder straps.

In the 1930s, the poorest segments of the American population wore overalls: farmers, miners, loggers, and railroad workers.

[6] They were most commonly worn by men and boys in the Southern United States and the Midwestern United States. They can be seen in many of Walker Evans’s photographs.[5] Lee and Levi, Strauss & Co. were not the only companies making overalls in the late 19th and 20th centuries.

One of the oldest brands of overalls, OshKosh B’gosh, founded in 1895 in Wisconsin, specialized in hickory stripe (blue and white stripe) bib overalls. The company produced bib overalls for children in the late 1960s.[1] Larned, Carter & Co., a company from Detroit, called themselves the “World’s Greatest Overall Makers.” They marketed their products as uniforms for railroad workers.[2] One of the biggest overall manufacturers was Blue Bell, which began in North Carolina in 1904. It was popular among railroad workers.[2] Jellico Clothing Manufacturing Co., later renamed Big Ben, was a major competitor of Blue Bell. Big Ben bought Blue Bell in 1926 and continued under the name Blue Bell.[4] Blue Bell then bought the overalls company Casey Jones.[2] Bib overalls (in different colors and textiles) have become a popular garment among American youth, from the 1960s onward.

REFERENCES: [1] Vintage menswear : a collection from the Vintage Showroom (Douglas Gunn; Josh Sims; Roy Luckett; Vintage Showroom.)

[2](Sullivan, James, 1965 November [2006]). Jeans : a cultural history of an American icon.

[3] Denim: fashion’s frontier. (McClendon, Emma,. New Haven)

2018CLL003 / 01 – 1940S OVERALL, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection: Depression era Red Camel Overall acquired in Greensboro North Carolina.

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2 RAW / RIGID The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2 WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2 WASHED

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2 RAW / RIGID Vintage inspired 5cm dungaree clip made in Japan.

Depression era fit Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration square woven label Period correct ecru stitching Hand stamped pocketing highlighting denim mills and TENCEL™ back-story.

One piece continuous fly construction

Clean finished Run and Felled seams construction on both leg seams

Leather backed buttons + rivets

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2 RAW / RIGID

Interlacing suspender branded strap with lasered collaborator names

Period correct mis-stitching on back pocket

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Hammer Loop

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

1950s VINTAGE INSPIRATION

WASHED Interlacing suspender branded strap with lasered collaborator names