CARVED IN BLUE® Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 HARDWEAR - 02 CHORE JKT

2018CLL003

02 – CHORE JACKET FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION

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Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019

H A R DW E A R A COLL ABORATIVE PROJECT BE TWEEN LENZING x J E A N O LO GIA ® x E N DRIME ® Made at B L ACK H O RSE L A N E AT E LIE RS

This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ®.

“This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made -up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes.

The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

2018CLL003

02 – CHORE JACKET FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY History of the Chore Coat / Jacket The chore coat first appeared in late nineteenth century France.

As a piece of outerwear made from durable cotton drill or moleskin, the chore coat was perfect for the tough physical work of labourers, railroad workers, and farmers, thanks to its loose fit that made it easy to throw over a set of overalls. In addition to being a hardy external layer, the roomy pockets were used to store everything a worker would need from tobacco tins to tools, and the button cuffs made for easy sleeve-rolling. Traditionally produced in a rich, vibrant French benzoate based blue dye, the chore was known in its home country as bleu de travail which translates directly to ‘blue work’.

It wouldn’t be until the bleu de travail reached the United States that it would be christened with its commonly known name. As it’s name would suggest, the chore coat was used for ‘chores’ like farming and laboring and worn by the working person, just like it was in France. The chore coats of America weren’t of the same rich blue as their French cousins, but the construction remained much the same.

By the early twenties, chore coats were being manufactured on a mass scale on both sides of the Atlantic by workwear companies that are still operating to this very day. In France, Le Mont Saint Michel, Vetra, and Le Laboureur were supplying workman with their bleu de travail chore coats, while over in the United States, legendary workwear label Carhartt had begun the production of their chore-style coat.

Initially known as the Engineer Sack Coat or simply The Coat, Carhartt’s chore jacket was first produced in blue denim in 1923 before the introduction of the now-iconic duck brown canvas.

With the needs of railroad workers in mind, Carhartt tweaked the traditional chore by adding corduroy lining to the collar, triple stitched seams, and reinforcing the pockets with sturdy copper rivets. Additionally, the Detroit brand lined some of their chores with pile blanketing for colder conditions.

As classic workwear has grown in popularity over the last decade, the chore coat and its many interpretations have become a staple piece in many wardrobes. Versatile, reliable, and functional – a chore-style coat can compliment almost any aesthetic – from the smart-casual inner-city look to rugged, workwear inspired styles.

The Carhartt Chore Coat has stood the test of time, and many brands have produced their take on the traditional French blue chore coats. There is also a demand for vintage French chore coats that heavily worn and faded, with many vintage boutiques stocking collections of unlabelled, mid-century French chores in varying conditions.

REFERENCES: https://www.heddels.com/2018/09/history-of-the-chorecoat/ Image courtesy of Brut Archive

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, 1950s FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection: Depression era Chore Jacket acquired in Japan during a inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY RAW / RIGID The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY RAW / RIGID

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY WASHED

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY RAW / RIGID

Depression era Rail Road jacket fit

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Run and Felled armhole clean construction

Period correct ecru stitching

Period correct Union Made ring button for center front with circle eyelet embroidery

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Clean finished Run and Felled triple needle chainstitch seam construction throughout

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on hip pockets

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY RAW / RIGID

Clean finished Run and Felled triple needle chainstitch seam construction on centre back and sleeve

Clean finished Run and Felled twin needle chainstitch on back side seams

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons for cuffs