SUSTAINABLE DENIM WARDROBE 2022
Celebrating
SUSTAINABLE DENIM WARDROBE
is a collaborative project, now in its 6th edition, that showcases TENCEL™ branded Lyocell fibers and brings to gether different styles in one curated denim lifestyle collection. Created side by side with Jeanologia, sustainable fin ishing technology experts, its focus is responsible production from the fiber to the finishing. For this edition, Betina Grosser, Fashion Designer and Sustainable + Collaborative Design specialist, has joined the group to design the print and help tell this story.
This collaborative project between the TENCEL™ Denim Team, Jeanologia and Betina Grosser is about exploring the little moments and things that bring us joy in everyday life. Simple pleasures that cut across lines of age, gender, and ethnicity. This collection is an ode to well-being from a perspec tive of ordinariness.
The sun shining through your window in the morning, your first sip of coffee, listening to your favorite song… Each one of us has their own places, activ ities and things that elevate our inner strength and hope, especially as the pandemic has forced us to re-evaluate our priorities.
We believe garments can be a source of pleasure: Clothing is a basic need when presenting ourselves into society. But it is also a reflection of our selves, and our social identities. From physical to emotional comfort, from beautifully constructed to meaningful garments, from sustainable processes and materials to self-expression: clothing can be a source of joy.
Inspired by the freedom and spontaneity of the 1970s, we immersed ourselves in our ‘Simple Pleasures’, a dopamine trip, with a view to creating a print de sign that tells the stories of those feel-good-factors. But, because those de lights can be so subjective and individual, it led us to a collaborative design process, in order to generate a much more diverse and relatable outcome.
It all started with one simple question:
love, friends, music and paella
A sunny day. A loving gesture from my son. A few good and healthy laughs
having time to take care of myself in every sense... preparing a good dinner, putting on perfume, painting my nails...
Estar junto com minha familia
mi gato
Dancing
Music and exercise
To have a cup of coffee!
el mar
milk tea
Una conversación, una sesión de deporte
Exercise via running or yoga (when I actually do it), cooking something delicious that I know is good for my body, spending time with my partner, family, and friends.
Being with my loved ones
Sailing in the mediterranean
Laughing
Depends on the moment
Sentirme valorada en términos personales y económicos
Balance my professional, personal and family life. When I finish my day if I suceed in my job expectations, had time to spend with my family and a little bit of time for myself I’m feel very well.
Estar con familia y amigos, comentar nuestras ideas, proyectos, deseos, aventuras, viajes, etc.
Helping people, sharing with friends and family, taking care of animals, sharing with kids...
Just getting up, taking a shower and putting me my fragrance
Preparing that special dinner, a romantic one, different from a normal day
Meeting new people, helping someone, solving problems.
balance in life
Nature
Spend time with family
When I feel proud of myself.
Many little things. A hug, a kiss, a kind compliment.
learning and growing
to have a trip Life.
In order to tell the story of this collection we wanted to create a print, whose different elements run throughout the collection, and that reminds us of the bright side of everyday life. For Betina Grosser, the fashion designer invited to co-create the print, it all started with one question: “What makes you feel good?”
First thing that came into her mind was water, “because when I am close to water, this is a time that I feel at my happiest!” Other pleasures that came to mind include, sitting under a tree, seeing the rays of light com ing through the leaves or touching and smelling freshly laundered bed sheets on an airy warm day.
These different stimuli flowing into and through our thoughts, moods and dreams inspired us to see a multifaceted print, where structured areas transition into more
fluid images and vice versa in an attempt to envision a dreamy, feel good dopamine trip.
In order to foster self-expression, we have designed a large print rapport, which allows for the crea tion of multiple garments, each one exhibiting a different set of images and themes. In that way, people have the opportunity to choose a garment made from the part of the print that most represents them.
Based in surrealism with psyche delic overtones, this print design was balanced through the use of elements inspired by tradition al scarves layouts and stainedglass windows. Mixing both the multi-colorful with pure black and white areas, it also explores many shades of blue to create an almost monochromatic look when paired with denim, as a way of toning down the shapes.
The print’s elements have been used in some way throughout the collection from fully printed garments, to hidden treasures like pocket linings and strategically positioned little details created with nano laser and inspired by the personal aspect provided by customiza tion of garments.
Sustainable Denim Wardrobe has always had collaboration as its back bone. Nowadays, a project requires the input of both creative and tech nical companies in order to bring to life a project in an effective and efficient manner. It requires a sus tainable approach right from the fiber through to the finishing. Work ing side-by-side with people that have different personal experiences, expertise and perspectives brings diversity to a project. It minimizes any possibilities of errors and max imizes imagination and innovation.
The Simple Pleasures collection is a project in which TENCEL™ and Jeanologia share all their exper tises in sustainability, technolo gy and creativity. Lenzing Denim Team Project Manager, Michael Kininmonth from the UK teamed up with Jeanologia Creative Direc
tor, Carme Santacruz from Spain to create and materialize the concept of this collection.
The design stage brought together Carme, Jeanologia’s atelier team and Betina Grosser, Fashion De signer from Brazil, invited to help tell the collection’s story through the design of the print, supplied by House of U. The collection also combines TENCEL™ Lyocell blends from Bossa, Cone Denim, Kaihara, Orta Anadolu and Prosperity, gar ment construction by Denim Moda, eco-technologies and garment fin ishing by Jeanologia.
COLLABORATIVE DESIGN
For this edition we decided to go one step further, making a collab orative design process that invited people to take part in the creation
of our digital print. As mentioned before, our goal was to create a print that works as a reminder of our joyful moments in life. So in order to make it relatable to as many people as possible, we made an online survey allowing them to express the little things, places and activities that make them feel good.
This process served to remind people of their simple pleasures, allowing them a moment to think about themselves. Together we were 50 people, from different parts of the world, bringing personal insights that then generated the many elements we see on the print. Multiple relatable stories that foster a sense of ownership and emotional connection.
What is the thing you look forward to most at the end of the day?
And during the day, what are the things / places / activities / situations that bring you joy?
Tell me one simple thing you consider very pleasant to do.
When you are having a bad day, what do you want to do to indulge yourself?
In our quest to create clothing that is a source of joy we meditated on this question: What makes clothing comfortable?
A well cut design, thought to allow us to move freely and feel well, can only benefit from the best fabrics. Breathability, stretchability, softness, the touch on the skin, all of these characteristics play an important role on how com fortable a fabric can be. Alongside them, emotional and psychological aspects can also make a difference: what are the stories behind it? How sustainable
is it? Who took part in its processes? How technological or innovative is it? What makes it special?
In that sense, the benefits of TENCEL™ fibers can be discerned instantly: next-to-skin-softness, smooth to the touch, efficient moisture management, luxurious in lustre and flow — they caress the senses. Peace of mind comes from knowing that the fibers originate from wood sourced from sustainably managed forests; combined with a closed-loop manufacturing process
– TENCEL™ was the first ever textile fiber to be designed around minimizing environmental impact.
This concept of physical and emotion al comfort guided us when choosing fabrics that combine these amazing properties of TENCEL™ with cotton’s breathability, hemp’s minimal impact and elastane’s comfort. All of them used to construct garments with Coats threads’ high quality.
In addition, we took into account of each fabrics Light Sensitive score. A test that accurately measures the suitability of denim fabrics for laser marking, based on sensitivity to light, and provides an objective score of fabric sensitiveness to the laser and sustainable finishing processes.
Technology can be a great ally of sustainability. From robots and drones to A.I. and block chain, technological innovations have been helping us to come up with solutions for climate change, transparency, traceability and minimizing carbon emissions.
As an innovation leader, The Lenzing Group drives many new technologi cal developments, offering solutions to help redirect the sector towards a closed loop economy. Lenzing’s high-quality fibers are biodegradable and compostable, made from wood as a renewable raw material, striving for the efficient utilization and processing of all resources.
The Sustainable Denim Wardrobe collection is designed as a showcase for Lenzing’s fibers, primarily TENCEL™ Lyocell. The collection focuses on en vironmentally responsible fabrics and technologies, and the 2022 collection is no different.
Jeanologia has lead the transformation of the garment laundry industry, creating disruptive technologies such as laser, G2 ozone, e-Flow, SmartBoxes and H2 Zero, that are designed to enhance productivity, reduce water use and energy consumption and eliminate damaging emissions and discharges, guaranteeing zero pollution.
New elements in this collection are the use of digital printing and the eDe signer platform. In the creative process we looked to reduce the impact
of prototyping by using eDesigner software to generate design alternatives and explore garment finishing possibilities digitally, thanks to its enhanced preview render tool.
Then, to assess the total impact of the garments’ finishing process we used the Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) platform, which helps moni tor the amount of water, chemicals, and energy used in the process, as well as the impact it may have on workers’ health.
LASER MARKING
By sublimating the indigo dye in the fabric, Jeanologia’s laser marking allows the creation of vintage-inspired looks without the need for harmful processes, reducing costs, and lower ing environmental impact.
JEANOLOGIA eFLOW
Employs nanobubbles of air that act as a carrier to transmit chemicals into a garment with a minimal quantity of water and zero discharge.
JEANOLOGIA eDESIGNER
Digital platform dedicated to jeans creation, connects laser designers and wash developers, digitalizing collections and standardizing laser marking in production.
LIGHT SENSITIVE FABRIC
Standard created by Jeanologia to assess a fabric’s performance when marked with laser technology. The higher the score, the better the fab ric’s overall performance. G2 Ozone generates ozone to treat garments by reacting with fiber dyes to achieve an authentic worn look with a zero-discharge process.
JEANOLOGIA G2 OZONE
DIGITAL PRINTING
A type of printing that can be pro duced in flexible quantities, allows a wide range of color, and uses less re sources from ink to factory floor.
A story about the simple things in life that make us feel good.
The Simple Pleasures collection envisages garments as a vehicle for self expression, balanced with traditional styling that is made to last. Many of us have that treasured garment in our closet, something that we return to time after time; and regardless of how old it is, we are unwilling to stop wearing it and unable to throw it away - especially because of the emotional attach ment we have for it.
We aimed to embody that same feeling in each garment presen ted here, in part, by creating con nections to iconic garment styles: those styles loved by previous generations’ that have remained
in the public psyche, because they have stood the test of time. The five pocket jean, the saharienne, the midi skirt or the trucker jacket are some of the styles we revisit.
In addition to the high quality in materials, low impact technology and emotional content, garment construction and detailing took a major role in achieving our goal: Jeanologia and Denim Moda teams have called upon their decades of experience to create garments that have multiple facets and features, such as beautiful interior finishes, high quality construction and hid den details, all intended to lighten our moods.
2122 printed satin House of U
100% TENCEL™ Lyocell
Dead stock indigo chambray
60% cotton
40% TENCEL™ Lyocell
2125 printed twill House of U
100% TENCEL™ Lyocell
LEHIGH P23315
Cone Denim - 11 Oz
G2 Dynamic
49% organic cotton
25% TENCEL™ Lyocell
14% cotton
12% hemp LSF score 53
2125 printed twill House of U 100% TENCEL™ Lyocell EIM score 21
LEHIGH P23315 Cone
Denim - 11 Oz
G2 Dynamic
49% organic cotton
25% TENCEL™ Lyocell
14% cotton
12% hemp LSF score 53
EIM score 22
2020-438-SO
Kaihara - 12 Oz
65% TENCEL™ Lyocell
35% cotton LSF score 60
EIM score 24
9708A-43 OBI-WAN
Orta -
Organic
EcoVero™ Viscose
4175B-46
Orta -
TENCEL™ Lyocell
TENCEL™ Modal
post-consumer recycled polyester
pre-consumer
polyester
elastane
polyester
4175B-46
Orta - 10,76 Oz
71% TENCEL™ Lyocell
11% TENCEL™ Modal
11% post-consumer recycled polyester
3% pre-consumer recycled polyester
2% elastane
2% polyester
LSF score 54
EIM score 31
4175B-46
Orta - 10,76 Oz
71% TENCEL™ Lyocell
11% TENCEL™ Modal
11% post-consumer recycled polyester
3% pre-consumer recycled polyester
2% elastane
2% polyester
LSF score 54
EIM score 24
2020-438-SO
Kaihara
LC-8610-W-BSO
Kaihara - 11,75 Oz
74% cotton
26% TENCEL™ Lyocell
LSF score 56
EIM score 29
1881-023-3
Kaihara - 12 Oz
Selvedge denim
74% cotton
26% TENCEL™ Lyocell
LSF score 58
EIM score 20
LOVE SAPPHIRE
Bossa
TENCEL™
Prosperity
TENCEL™
LOVE SAPPHIRE BLACK RN0475
Bossa - 12 Oz
60% cotton
40% TENCEL™ Lyocell LSF score 57
EIM score 25
LOVE SAPPHIRE BLACK RN0475
Bossa - 12 Oz
60% cotton
40% TENCEL™ Lyocell LSF score 57
EIM score 24
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Working on this project was a pleasure and a privilege, as it offered us the opportunity to recov er and rediscover things that are important and unimportant at the same time - our own small pleasures. We would like to thank all collaborators and suppliers for embarking on this trip with us and helping us to make it come to fruition.
A special thanks to all people that kindly shared their small pleasures through our survey. You have made this project diverse, inclusive and inspiring!
Michael Kininmonth, Project Manager, Lenzing Fibers.
Carme Santacruz, Concept, Creative Direction, Design & Project Coordination, Jeanologia.
Betina Grosser, Print Collaborative Design, Illustration, Storytelling, Graphic Design.
MEET OUR SUPPLIERS
FABRICS
Bossa www.bossa.com.tr @bossadenim Cone Denim www.conedenim.com @conedenim Kaihara www.kaihara-denim.com @kaihara_denim
Orta Anadolu www.ortaanadolu.com @orta_anadolu Prosperity www.prosperity-textile.com @prosperitytextile
DIGITAL PRINTING
House of U www.houseofu.com @houseofufashionprinting
PATTERN MAKING
Susa Plaza www.susaplaza.com @susaplaza
GARMENT PRODUCTION
Denim Moda www.denimmoda.it info@denimmoda.it Coats www.coats.com @coats_group
Jawaid Bross www.jawaidbross.com @jawaidbross
MODELS
Carmen Durán Model Agency www.carmenduran.es @carmenduranagency
Daniela Bof - @daanielabof Samba Diaw - @sambaaliasmbess
PHOTOGRAPHY
Paco Esteve www.pacoesteve.com @paco_esteve
MAKE UP AND HAIR
Paola García www.one-offartists.com @pao_makeup Ángel Pérez www.angelpf.es @angelpf_
STYLING
LENZING FIBERS
Headquartered in Austria, the Lenzing Group is the world leader of woodbased pulp and cellulosic fibers, with production sites in major markets and a global network of sales and marketing offices. Lenzing is committed to the ecologically responsible production of fibers. As an innovation leader, Lenzing partners with global textile manufacturers and drives many new technological developments. In the textile arena, TENCEL™ Lyocell has be come an integral fiber for the denim segment and the Lenzing Denim Team have been active in contributing to the wider denim community by creating the Carved in Blue Blog as well as the Bluecast and Blue Lenz platforms.
www.carvedinblue.tencel.com
@carvedinblue m.kininmonth@lenzing.com
JEANOLOGIA
From a background of consultancy, denim finishing and passion for the prod uct, Jeanologia evolved into a technology manufacturer, offering sustainable textile solutions and creating new operating models. Since 1994 Jeanologia’s mission has been to create an ethical, sustainable, and eco-efficient industry through their disruptive technology and know-how. Their laser, G2 ozone, e-flow, Smart Boxes and H2Zero, have revolutionised the textile industry, of fering infinite design and garment finishing possibilities, while saving water, energy, and chemicals, eliminating discharge and toxic emissions.
www.jeanologia.com
@jeanologia info@jeanologia.com
BETINA GROSSER
Passionate about color, meaningful projects and collaborating with different people to create solutions, Betina believes delivering real value to people is one of the keys to sustainability. Her career in fashion design has sustainabili ty and communication as partners from day one, when she worked designing a clothing line made from dead stock materials and crafting storytelling into content. Currently she works as a freelance Fashion Designer and Sustain able + Collaborative Design Consultant with the goal of collaborating with companies to create collections and projects that tell stories, bridging design, sustainability and communication.
www.betinagrosser.com
@betinagrosser
hello@betinagrosser.com