CARVED IN BLUE® Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 HARDWEAR - 04 SHIRT

2018CLL003

04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION

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Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019

H A R DW E A R A COLL ABORATIVE PROJECT BE TWEEN LENZING x J E A N O LO GIA ® x E N DRIME ® Made at B L ACK H O RSE L A N E AT E LIE RS

This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ®.

“This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made -up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes.

The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

2018CLL003

04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW History of the Workwear shirt Shirts have been around for millennia. The humble workshirts as we know them are documented to have been made around early 1900s. but the evolution of the shirt is very fascinating.

A garment which you can tell by the wearer which class your from, from the type of collar shape. But shirts have changed a lot over the years.

“Religion is not changed as easily as a shirt,” King Henry IV of France observes, ruling during a time of period in France.

The shirt has remained mostly unchanged over the past half-century or more - but that hasn’t always been the case.

Detachable sleeves for flirting? Shirttails as underwear? Over the years, this core garment has evolved (and devolved) in fascinating and sometimes funny ways.

The shirt goes way, way back. In fact, this date marks the oldest preserved garment in the world - a linen shirt from ancient Egypt These are the cloudy origins of a shirt convention that we still live with today: women’s shirts buttoning on the left and men’s on the right. Allegedly, women of status tended to be buttoned up by a servant, more easily done from the left for a right-handed person, whereas men dressed themselves.

16th - 18th Centuries The Origins of the Crop-Top The “half shirt” or “sham” was a popular men’s garment at this time. A decorative layer, it only covered the top portion of the chest and was worn over a shirt that was either deemed too plain for the occasion, or needed washing Early 18th Century Top and Tails The shirt extends beyond the torso for men of this era, its long tails doing double duty as underwear.

1771 Enlightenment Expressions The first documented appearance of the expression “To give the shirt off one’s back,” an idiom that indicates extreme desperation or generosity and is still in common usage.

photographs. work shirts from this era were pullovers, featured, and were single-needle or double-needle stitched. Labels were almost always cotton and printed, back yokes tended to be very high and thin.

1827 On the Cutting-Edge Hannah Montague, a housewife in upstate New York, invents the detachable collar. Tired of constantly washing her husband’s entire shirt when only the collar needed it, she cut off his collars and devised a way of attaching them to the neckband after washing.

1920s To The Point The pointed collar starts overtaking the rounded collar as the men’s style most typical for business wear.

1845 Swashbuckling Style The French cuff makes its first important appearance in literature — in The Count of Monte Cristo, by Alexandre Dumas. In actual fact, the English invented the style.

1871 Button Up The clothier Brown, Davis & Co. patents a shirt that buttons all the way down to the waist. The upwardly mobile masses are putting their initials on everything, including shirts—and not just to claim ownership of items sent out to be washed, the original (and practical) reason for monogramming clothing.

Turn of the 20th Century - High Fashion The high collar seen in portraits dating from this era is, in fact, a holdover from Victorian times. Though it is out of fashion today, a higher, stiffer collar does still convey formality.

The 1900s -1910s The turn of the century is an interesting time for workwear; along with the 1910s, there’s actually a great deal we don’t know about it. That’s because unlike the 1940s, 1930s, and even 1920s, there of what we know from this time period is thanks to catalogues, or

1924 Feeling Blue First recorded use of the term “blue-collar worker.” The color of one’s shirt is at this point an important class indicator. The “whitecollar”—so called because those in more elevated positions are less likely to get their shirts dirty, and are thus able to wear white - is already a phenomenon.

Its around this period where ventilated yoke shirt design that was filed in 1928-29 by John W. Champion – which become the standard to workwear shirts.

REFERENCES https://the-rite-stuff.com/blogs/news/the-evolution-of-thework-shirt https://www.gant.co.uk/shirtguide/shirt-history

2018CLL003 / 04 – 1950s WORKWEAR SHIRT, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection: Depression era Pay Day shirt acquired in Greensboro North Carolina.

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW RAW / RIGID The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW RAW / RIGID

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW WASHED

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW WASHED

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW RAW / RIGID

Clean finished Run and Felled twin needle chainstitch seams construction throughout

Workwear pocket watch buttonhole

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label

Curved collar with inside zigzag “Van Dyke“ stitching

Fabric enforcement on chest pockets.

Period correct ecru stitching

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Collaboration branded square woven label on chest pockets with continuous stitch

Union Made period correct metal buttons.

Curved darted sleeve, with ergonomic fit

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW RAW / RIGID

Darted back shoulder

Curved darted sleeve, with ergonomic fit

Shirt side gusset