CARVED IN BLUE® Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 HARDWEAR - 06 LADIES WORKWEAR PANTS

2018CLL003

06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION

– PRESS RELEASE –

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019

H A R DW E A R A COLL ABORATIVE PROJECT BE TWEEN LENZING x J E A N O LO GIA ® x E N DRIME ® Made at B L ACK H O RSE L A N E AT E LIE RS

This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ®.

“This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made -up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes.

The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

2018CLL003

06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A History of Womens Work Pants Jeans are much more than just jeans – they’re the one piece of clothing that really represents the cultural, economic and technological change that has taken place in the past hundred years; from the original Levi’s overalls designed for miners in the 1870s. The increasing amount of fits, washes and styles on offer today are just limitless.

One of the biggest changes that jeans have gone hand-in-hand with, is women’s position in society and a move towards equality between the sexes. After years of only being worn by men, 1934 saw the creation of ‘Lady Levi’s’ (also called Lot 701) by Levi Strauss & Co., the world’s first pair of denim jeans for women.

Designed for women working on farms and ranches and for holidays at dude ranches, they liberated women at a time when trouser styles were few and far between, and were considered decidedly unfeminine.

Before this period, women just worn mens overalls. Lots of other brands in this period also started to make denim styles in ladies fits. It wasn’t really until the 1960s that jeans were embraced by women once again, and they became the symbol of empowerment, women’s rights and cultural revolution. In the early 1970s, Vogue featured blue jeans on its front cover for the first time, firmly cementing their fashion status and planting jeans into every woman’s subconscious.

REFERENCES https://www.sfchronicle.com/style/article/SF-s-first-fashionicon-Levi-s-501s-11153403.php

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection: Depression era ladies Jeans acquired in Japan during a inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A RAW / RIGID The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A WASHED

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A WASHED

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A RAW / RIGID

Angled front pockets Clean construction pocket bearer 3/16” twin needle on patch pocket

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons leather backed Chain stitch waistband construction

Depression era womens fit inspiration

Side zipper entry clean construction

Tailored belts loops (which go into bottom waistband)

Printed internals hand stamped denim mills to identify each garment with TENCEL™ story.

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams construction on inseam leg

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A RAW / RIGID

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Clean finished Run and Felled triple needle chainstitch seams construction backrise and yoke

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets