RAISING YOUR EQUINE EXPERIENCE TO A HIGHER LEVEL
WELCOME TO THE WINTER EDITION
Welcome to the Better Horses Winter Edition;
Hello Better Horses readers and welcome to the Better Horses 2025 Winter Edition.
To keep the equine community updated on the changes for 2025, The Horse Protection Act (HPA) of 1970 is a federal law prohibiting sored horses from participating in shows, exhibitions, sales or auctions. The USDA is proposing modifications to this law and is making the new recommendations. In this edition is a comparison of the changes proposed for 2025. See page 28 for more details.
For more information and current guidance visit the USDA HPA website: Horse Protection Act www.aphis.usda.gov/hpa
We are thrilled to be highlighting Horse Breeding Operations around the Midwest. Look for top breeders to join the Better Horses Radio, TV and Newspaper series. This is the season for breeding and horse experts will always repeat the 1-2-3 rule of foaling: the foal should stand within one hour of delivery, nurse within two hours, and the placenta should pass within three hours. If there are any delays, a call to your veterinarian is crucial, as this is a critical time for the mare and foal.
Here in the heartland both Kansas and Missouri are answering the call for more Equine facilities. The Missouri State Fair and the American Royal have broken ground and will be game changers for the Midwest. Better Horse plans to cover the projects as they develop.
The Missouri State Fair in Sedalia, Missouri, has announced its expansion of 397 acres and the construction of an equine center with new barns and a climatized arena. The new arena, named the Governor Michael L. Parson Arena, is expected to be completed in 2027.
The American Royal Association announced its relocation to Wyandotte County, already under construction with their mission to Build the Nation’s Premier Agriculture Event and Engagement Campus. This will serve the American Royal and its $350 million headquarters complex in Kansas City, Kansas.
This time of year, more and more conversations revolve around the topic “What to Do When You Don’t Feel Like Riding”. Even the most motivated people in the world have days where they just don’t feel like dragging themselves down to the barn and getting into the saddle. This is normal…but here are four quick tips you can try.
1. Commit to 10 minutes
2. Make it a habit
3. Plan a show or a lesson
4. Ride with a friend
As always thank you for supporting Better Horses and if you wish to subscribe to the four editions provided each year complete the subscription form on this page or go to www.betterhorses.com/ media/#newspaper
Until next time, happy trails and ride for the brand.
ED ADAMS, CEO BETTER HORSES
FEATURED IN THE ISSUE
4. Foolproof Foaling
7. 2025 Pinto World Championship
9. Winter Ticks: An Unusual Concern for Horse Owners
10. Developing the Lope Transition in a Young Horse
12. Upcoming Rodeos and Shows
13. Dan James’ Hitching Post
14. The Dreaded Stall Rest
16. Fergus Comics
18. Outlaw Ranch Cowgirl Challenge
19. Protective Mindset of the Horse
20. Help for the Timid Rider
23. A Hydrated Horse is a Healthy Horse
24. Scratches: Keep This Condition From Turning Chronic
25. Best Manure Management Practices on Horse Farms
27. The Pick Up
28. 2025 USDA Horse Protection Act (HPA) Rule Overview
TAKING YOUR HORSE EXPERIENCE TO A HIGHER LEVEL
SUBSCRIBE TODAY!
If you want to continue to receive your copy of the Better Horses publication via mail the cost will be $20.00 per year for four issues. If you don’t want to receive it in the mail you can always pick up your free copy at your local participating Purina Dealer or other distribution points.
Method of Payment:
Check Money Order Charge my Credit Card: Mastercard Visa
FOOLPROOF FOALING
BY SHELLEY RYSTROM
Foaling season is here! If you’re waiting on a foal this spring, or perhaps your first foal ever, I’d love to share some tips from my career in welcoming new foals into the world.
First and foremost, if you are looking for foolproof foaling, it isn’t possible, so - don’t do it. Horses are hard work and always hard at work finding ways to injure themselves or others. Additionally, unlike other livestock species, we have not consistently bred horses for their reproduction qualities or birth rates. However, if you’re like me and rarely listen to sound reason because there are few things more rewarding than planning for, waiting on, and watching a foal grow in your own pasture, please keep reading.
I preach a lot about nutrition. It is never too late to improve your mare’s nutrition.
Additionally, no grain or supplement replaces great forage. Pregnant and nursing mares need high-quality forage and have higher protein needs than the average horse. We feed the best alfalfa we can and have great relationships with the farms that keep us supplied with it. No grain or supplement can replace this staple in their diet, but we also supplement our mares with loose mineral while they are “dry” and we grain and mineral our “wet” mares. Once your mare foals, you can expect her forage consumption to double.
Pre-foaling vaccinations improve a foal’s immunity through colostrum. Our mares receive a 4-way vaccine 45-30 days prior to their due date as well as an additional vaccine to assist with scours. Talk to your veterinarian about the best protocol for your mare based
on your environment and what they might be exposed to. Your mare should also be living at the facility where she will be foaling at least 30 days before her due date for her to have the right antibodies built up in her system to pass along to the foal.
Know your mare’s foaling “date” and remember that mares not only don’t read books, but they are one of the few mammals that have an individual gestation periodthe average is 11 months and 4 days. Mares routinely go a little early and a lot late. This is why it’s so important to know your mare. Watching her body get ready to foal is your best way to predict foaling. If you can, and do be cautious sticking your head in places your mare doesn’t want it, milk a few drops into your hand to test the mare’s milk. Some
people use pool strips to test the pH of the milk. You can obtain, with relative certainty, the same information by observing the color and thickness of the milk. When the milk changes from yellowish/clear to white, a mare will *usually* foal within 24 hours. Some mares get a beautiful, thick, very sticky milk prior to foaling. This signals a highquality colostrum. When I have a mare with colostrum that looks like syrup, I will milk her to save that colostrum for future foals in need. This is done after a foal has nursed two or three times and the foal is content and full but also during the first 24 hours. Storing colostrum is done easiest in breast milk bags that are sterile and can be stored in your freezer for up to a year. Many mares will “wax” prior to foaling but not all and waxing amounts can vary greatly.
No matter how good the milk is and no matter how well the foal nurses, don’t take passive transfer of the antibodies present in the mare’s colostrum for granted. It is always a good idea to have your vet do an IgG test to see if you need to have them follow up with plasma. This is something you should always be prepared for and is standard practice on many larger farms.
Your foaling kit should have chlorhexidine or diluted iodine in it with a small cup (maybe an old cough medicine cup or the end of a plastic syringe container) to dip the umbilicus stump into several times after foaling. The umbilicus stump should be kept as clean as possible and dipped several times in the foal’s first 24-48 hours. The most dangerous thing that can happen to a new foal is to be born or live in a wet and dirty environment where its umbilicus is exposed to pathogens. This is the cause of navel ill and it can be deadly to new foals. If the weather is bad and the mud is deep and you don’t have a dry facility for your mare to foal, please call a friend with a barn or a breeding facility. This is life and death for your foal. Side note: I’ve had several mares pop a baby out while they were being turned out briefly to have their stalls cleaned, they will always choose a
mud hole, and with fast intervention, those foals had zero complications.
As far as the actual foaling goes, it is scientifically proven that the period between a mare starting labor and the foal being born and then again between the time a foal is born and it stands and nurses is 10 to the 1,000th power longer than waiting for water to boil. Even as an experienced equine midwife, I pull my phone out and set a timer. A common rule of thumb is one hour to foal, two to stand, and three to nurse. Mares rarely need assistance in foaling, in fact, if you are pulling on the foal just to make yourself feel better, you may inhibit the mare’s ability to pass the placenta timely. If you see two feet and a nose, take a deep breath and be patient.
Once the foal is delivered, let Mother Nature do her thing. Rarely has a foal actually needed my help to nurse and most of the time, if you get involved, you will only get in the way. Let the umbilical cord break on its own, dip the navel and find a comfy hay bale to sit on OUTSIDE of the stall. The foal is going to somersault, splay its long spiderish legs in every direction and drive you insane as it works on standing for the first time - let it. The placenta should pass completely within six hours of foaling. It is imperative to call your vet if this does not occur - horses are not cows, their placentas attach quite differently, and a retained placenta in a mare can be life-threatening.
We do not imprint our foals. This is a very important time for the mare and foal and the most important things are nursing and having the navel dipped. There will be plenty of time to teach that foal in the following days and weeks.
Deworm your mare within 12 hours of foaling. A foal’s first exposure to parasites is from its dam and this gives your foal a head start in staying healthy. You should also have a deworming regimen set up with your veterinarian for your foal. Foals are especially susceptible to parasites and may need to be
dewormed more often than your other horses depending on your veterinarian’s advice. It is also important to know which dewormers are safe for young foals.
If things don’t go perfectly or your foal is not nursing in the allotted time, call the vet. Time is of the essence and you may be in for several very long and exhausting days but your persistence will pay off. In my experience, about 10% of foals require extra work in some manner and most of those go on to be healthy and happy after their first week and your blood, sweat, and tears. I promise you, I have cried for sheer joy and out of utter exhaustion in more than one stall when a foal finally nursed on its own. I’ve cussed a lot, too. Most of the time, though, I’m crouched in the corner of a stall, wearing smelly clothes with hay in my hair wishing I had some coffee, but in absolute awe of the glory of God’s creation and how lucky I am to do what I do.
Most importantly, your veterinarian, the stallion owner, and the breeding manager are here for you, we succeed when you succeed. The only stupid question is the one not asked. Happy Foaling Season and Good Luck from all of us at Scott Rystrom Quarter Horses! www. scottrystromquarterhorses.com
2025 PINTO WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW
BY JENNA HENSON
At the start of summer in Tulsa, Oklahoma, people have traveled from far and wide to attend one of the biggest horse shows of the year: the Pinto World Championship. This is the horse show PtHA members wait to attend all year long. All their hard work and preparation comes together on the biggest stage of the year for the Pinto Horse Association. Tina Langness has attended the Pinto World Championship for 14 years and is looking forward to attending again in 2025. From New Richmond, Wisconsin, Langness and her clients make the trip to Tulsa with their horses in hopes of bringing home world championship titles.
“My clients love this show as do I,” said, Tina Langness, professional horse trainer and PtHA member. “It’s certainly one of the most grueling schedules we endure all year, but we have an absolute blast! The venue, staff, quality of competition, variety of classes and activities, welfare for the horses, and the welcoming atmosphere are why we go back year after year.”
The 2025 Pinto World Championship will take place June 9-21, 2025, at the Tulsa Fairgrounds. With over 700 classes offered and a million dollars handed out in prizes, PtHA offers something for everyone to come and compete.
When asked what classes Tina competes in, she said, “I compete in the Pleasure, Ideal and Disciplined Rail Driving, Hunter Under Saddle, English Pleasure and Disciplined Rail, Western Pleasure, Ideal and Disciplined Rail, Color Classes, Halter, Trail and Hunter Hack.”
PtHA caters to all levels and ages of competitors including youth, novice, amateur and open divisions.
“It was always a show I wanted to try and I was looking for something different. I was impressed by the number and variety of classes offered,” Langness said.
Most people competing at the Pinto World Championship love their horses and gratefully look back on their accomplishments over the years.
“Through the years the best memories are the times spent with people and the horses,” Tina said. “Not just the accolades, but simply life-long memories and learning experiences that ultimately add to some of the most important chapters to our lives.”
To be able to compete in the 2025 Pinto World Championship, exhibitors just need a current membership, horses registered, and
entry and stalling information sent to the office.
When asked what Langness would say to someone thinking about attending the Pinto World Championship she said, “Just do it! Don’t hesitate and put your reservations aside. What you have heard about Pinto is true. We got you! We want your experience to be a great one!”
Langness is one of many who found her place with PtHA and continues to come back to the local and national shows. All of the forms can be located on our website under pinto.org. As always if you have any questions please call the office. PtHA can’t wait to see everyone at the Pinto World Championship!
Join the PtHA in Tulsa, Okla. for the annual Pinto World Championship June 9-21, 2025.
WINTER TICKS: AN UNUSUAL CONCERN FOR HORSE OWNERS
BY CHRIS BLEVINS, MS, DVM
During the winter months, we rarely think about ticks. In most cases, ticks are primarily a problem during the warmer seasons of spring, summer, and fall. However, horse owners are noticing ticks on their horses this winter. The “winter tick,” also known as the Ghost Moose Tick, is different from the ticks we see in the summer. Its scientific name is Dermacentor albipictus. The nickname “Ghost Moose Tick” comes from one of its primary hosts, the moose, although other animals, such as horses and cattle, can also serve as hosts.
Ticks that infest a host can cause anemia and even death. In recent years, more than 75,000 ticks have been found on a single moose. This tick can have a significant economic impact and cause medical issues in livestock and horses. The winter tick can cause dermatitis (skin irritation), emaciation, loss of appetite, anemia, and weakness. In severe cases, it can lead to death. In some regions of the United States, Dermacentor albipictus has been linked to anaplasmosis, a tick-borne disease (particularly in Oklahoma). The winter tick can be found across all 48 contiguous states, including the Midwest.
THE WINTER TICK LIFECYCLE
The lifecycle of the winter tick differs from that of more common summer tick species. It
is a one-host tick, meaning it will live on the same host throughout its entire lifecycle, from larvae to adult. Eggs hatch on the ground in mid-summer, but the larvae remain dormant before migrating to taller vegetation (like tree lines) in the fall. Once on the vegetation, the larvae latch onto an animal as it passes by. The larvae can develop into nymphs on the host within 10 days. The nymphs remain dormant on the host until winter, when they mature into adults.
Adult ticks are easier to spot and feed on the host’s blood throughout the winter months (November through January). During this time, adult ticks mate, and females lay eggs on the ground in early spring. Winter ticks (adults and nymphs) can be found anywhere on a horse but are most commonly located on the chest, axillary (armpit), and abdominal areas.
TREATMENT AND MANAGEMENT
Treating horses for winter ticks can be challenging, just like treating other types of ticks. However, some products are effective in killing these ticks on both cattle and horses. One such product is Coumaphos (Co-Ral® Fly and Tick Spray by Bayer). Work with your veterinarian when using this product to ensure proper application and dosage. It is important to follow veterinary instructions to
Prospects and All Around horses for sale at all times! 25616 183rd Street; Leavenworth, Kansas 66048
Phone: 913-683-3838 Email: mgratnyqh@gmail.com
avoid toxicities, side effects, or environmental contamination.
Understanding the lifecycle and ecosystems of the winter tick can also aid in its management. Shorter and warmer winters have been shown to correlate with higher infestations of these ticks on hosts such as moose, horses, and cattle. Being proactive in the fall by using permethrin-based products may help repel winter tick larvae from settling on equines. High-concentration permethrins, such as EquiSpot or ProForce 50, or other fly sprays, can be effective. Always follow the label directions and consult your veterinarian before using any products on your horse, donkey, or mule.
GET EXPERT HELP
If you have questions or concerns about winter ticks, contact your veterinarian or the Kansas State University Veterinary Health Center. You can reach the VHC at 785-5325700 or visit their website at https://www.ksvhc. org/services/equine/.
CONNOLLY EQUINE
785-477-6481
785-313-0396
connollyequinesales@hotmail.com
DEVELOPING THE LOPE TRANSITION IN THE YOUNG HORSE
BY DANA HOKANA
In this Better Horses article I am going to teach you how to teach the young horse to lope right off. A great horseman once told me it takes 1,000 transitions to teach a horse to make an excellent transition. Even if that’s stretching it, it for sure takes hundreds. Practice makes perfect and I feel you need to practice your transitions a lot not only for the horse but for your own timing and to establish relationship between your leg and his response. Any maneuvers you teach your horse will take practice and repetition to achieve perfection.
Remember, your horses are like kids in school. They need to practice new things they are learning over and over. So, allow the time and teach your horses!
In order to perform a good transition, you need to have control of your horse’s body. Since your leg cue is your primary signal to lope, you need to develop in your horse a good understanding of this signal. I spend a lot of time on young horses developing an understanding and acceptance of my leg. Many horses start out resistant to your leg.
As young horses in a pasture, when one horse pushes against another horse the horse either runs or pushes back. I often get the same reaction when teaching the young horse to accept my leg cue. Some run or jump off of it, but most resist or push back against it. To develop acceptance of this cue I move my horse over off of my leg over and over again. One good exercise is to isolate the hindquarters and teach him to move his hindquarters over while keeping the front end still or relatively still, similar to a turn on the forehand. Side passing is good also but I do more of the isolating the hindquarters and moving around the front end and moving only the hindquarters.
I feel I can identify if my horse is allowing me to have control of his body and determine if he’s running off of my leg, sticking on my leg or accepting my leg and stepping willingly off of my leg. One of the key components to a great transition is that my leg cue will drive him and he will match his step to the amount of pressure I apply. I want to have control of his hind leg with my leg.
The next key component to a great transition is the horse must have lift. In order for the horse to softly lift up and lope off, his body weight has to be on his hindquarters. If his weight is on his front end, he will have to pull his body in to the lope and it will not be pretty. Lift and balance are the keys to everything you do with your horse. You need to be aware of where your horse’s body weight is at all times. If you feel he is falling apart, most likely he is on his front end. Most of the time I just stop, get his body weight back where it belongs and try again.
So, to perform a good transition, build the basics that you need to have control of the hindquarters and acceptance of your leg. You also need to have control of where his body weight is and where his front end is. I will teach you my favorite exercise to teach the young, green horse to lope right off.
Let’s work on a right lead for example. Start at the stand still and ride two handed. Pull his head to the left and apply your left leg asking him to move his hindquarters over. Pay attention to his response. Your goal is to be able to mash or push your leg and control each step with your leg. Look for willingness or resistance! How he takes your leg will be very similar to his attitude in the lope off. This is a huge secret to fixing older horses that are pin eared or prissy or that jump off into the lope. It usually starts with acceptance or resistance to the initial leg cue. Remember your leg is another mode of communication between you and your horse. It is a form of relationship with your horse. I want my horses to respect my cue but also to accept it, whether it is my hands or my legs or my seat. Taking the time to evaluate how you are asking and how he is responding is very important. If you encounter a lot of resistance you may need to be sharp or punish your horse, but ride mindfully and evaluate if you are giving more cue than you need or not enough. Once you are happy with his response and you can freely step his hindquarters around his front end, stop him. Notice that as his hindquarters are moving and his front end is still, his body weight is on his front end. So, let’s bring his body weight back to his hindquarters. I will do this by attempting to keep his hindquarters still and I bring his front end over to the right performing a turn on the haunches. I lead off with my right rein keeping his nose tipped slightly toward the right, my left rein needs to keep his body straight and not allow his
According to Hokana, building the basics of control will help horses transition to a lope.
hindquarters to move back into my left leg as I just worked to move him over off my left leg. My ideal is for him to be light in my hands and rock his weight back on his hindquarters. I will turn him until I feel his body weight where it belongs. I keep a little left leg in him to block him moving into my leg. If at any time he moves his hindquarters over back into my left leg, I stop and start over by pushing his hind end back off my leg then rock his front end back around in a turn to the right, keeping his nose tipped into the direction of the right lead that I will ask for. I want him to wait for me to direct or drive him. If he’s trying to beat me to it or out thinking my cues, I will stop him and make him wait for me. Once I like his feel, I will ask him to walk forward making sure he doesn’t throw that hip back into my leg and I will then smooch and mash or squeeze my leg and ask him to lope off. If he refuses to go, I may get tougher with my leg and I may make him trot his hip around his front end to show him I want forward motion. Then I will ask him again. If he jumps forward into the lope, I’ll let him lope a minute to show him that was good. Then I’ll stop him and push him around again until he accepts my leg and try my lope off again. If he takes off trotting fast, I will try to kick him into the lope to show him what I wanted. Then I’ll stop him and try again. When a horse just trots, often they are lacking lift, so pay careful attention to your turns on the haunches that he is light and soft and truly putting his weight on his hindquarters. He may also be trotting because he is leaning into your left leg and not stepping over to lope right off. Some horses are weaker than others and you will need to practice this over and over to build their strength. Other horses don’t have a lot of natural lift and lope off transitions are difficult for them. You can improve them over time. I recommend working on one side until you achieve some results before switching to the other side. Make your cues clear and give your horse a break when you see they are trying for you. When you want to switch to the left
lead simply reverse the cues to the other side. This exercise I gave you will build acceptance and knowledge in your horse and keeps the horse’s body on the correct arc for each lead. Understanding the importance of the arc will help you to identify what went wrong if he doesn’t lope off when asked. The horse’s body always needs to follow a slight arc when loping. This exercise over accentuates the arc in order to help him to learn to lift up and lope off in one stride. Good luck with your
horse and if you need more help I recommend my training DVD Maximizing Your Western Pleasure Horse Vol. 1. It goes into detail on developing control of your horse’s body, to perform any maneuver. please check out www. hokana.com
2
DAN JAMES’ HITCHING POST
BY DAN JAMES
This six-horse hitching post eliminates time spent catching, saddling and tying horses individually before training sessions, and teaches the horses patience.
At any time, trainer Dan James’ Kentucky facility can have between 10 and two dozen horses that need to be worked and/or ridden. James has spent nearly four decades on horseback, and today specializes in freestyle reining and liberty training, which involves working with a horse on the ground instead of on its back.
Each day, he brings up six horses as a group, ties each one to his sturdy, self-designed hitching post, and begins an assembly-line-style grooming and saddling. By tackling the chore in groups, he hits two goals: eliminating time between rides and teaching each horse patience.
Dan James ties each horse to a heavy link of chain, at least 2 to 3 millimeters thick, with its lead rope. The chain is secured to the tie post by a heavy bolt. Most of the horses wear rope halters, and this option eliminates the need to remove the lead, or to wrap it around the horse’s neck. The hitching post is more than 1 foot wide, so tying the horse’s lead rope around it would not leave much length left for the horse to move. The length of the horse’s tie depends on its size and height, James says. He typically will leave about 18 inches of lead rope.
To create his six-horse hitching post, James first decided on a location that offered the horses shade. Then, he and some friends set about making it sturdy and unmovable.
“It is convenient for me to have them close to the arena,” James says. “I can get into a rhythm riding one horse, then the next. It is also a great way to teach a busy horse to stand. However, I would never tie a young horse that hadn’t been tied to this [six-horse] post. It is for older horses that know how to stand.
“For a young horse I’m starting, I have another tie in our round pen that is specifically created to allow me to let loose the horse if it gets into trouble. Once the horse understands not to set back or knows that setting back is not a way to escape, I will tie it on this post.”
THE DREADED STALL REST
BY BETTER HORSES STAFF
As far as treatment recommendations go for an injury or illness, stall rest can be a dreaded part of any horse’s care plan. This can also be a challenging practice for owners and horses. Here are some tips and best practices for making the experience as painless as possible, and recommended methods for transitioning off stall rest once your horse has healed.
CUSTOMARY REASONS
Injuries are one of the most common reasons for a horse to be prescribed stall rest. Lacerations, bowed tendons, tweaking joints, sprains and popping a splint are the usual culprits.
The second most common reason is recovery from an elective-type surgery.
One example of an elective surgery requiring stall rest is healing from a procedure to cut the check ligament to correct a club foot. In this case, stall rest prevents overexertion and helps to ensure proper healing. A final common reason for stall rest is to aid in treating an impaction colic. Being restricted to a stall can aid in withholding feed to clear the horse out.
CHALLENGES
Whether your horse has been prescribed stall rest for one of the above reasons or something else, both horses and owners can find it challenging, particularly if the horse’s prescribed stay is a lengthy one.
Stall rest can be a challenge if you’ve got a horse that won’t tolerate it. Some horses can be very high-strung and will pace back and forth. They’ll do more damage to themselves in a stall than they would with restricted exercise or confinement.
Another challenge is housing. Sometimes owners simply do not have a stall. Not everybody has a barn.
In this case, creating a temporary stall by erecting corral panels and using trees and tarps for shade.
Other times, it’s the horse owner’s schedule that creates obstacles. Some horses owners have jobs requiring long hours or long distances away from home, limiting their ability to manage the increased care required of a stall-bound horse. A final challenge is cleanliness. For various reasons, it can be difficult to access the stall for cleaning. If the stall cannot be cleaned two to three times daily, ammonia from urine and feces can start to build up. If not addressed, this can create health conditions of its own.
Horses who have been prescribed stall rest benefit from having a companion for socialization.
ADDED HEALTH CONCERNS
Outside of the usual anticipated challenges of being on stall rest while working to heal one condition, stall rest can create others. Being on stall rest can cause horses to be stressed, stop drinking and go off their feed. In addition, the very nature of stall rest restricts the horse’s
natural movement, the benefit of which is aiding in keeping food passing through the digestive system. While impossible to completely work around, owners prescribed stall rest for their horses should consider how outside stressors, such as celebratory holiday fireworks, might add to the stress levels of a stall-bound horse. Plans to help ease their anxiety should be made ahead of time, for example, moving the horse to an area of confinement with more space. To stay ahead of colic, closely monitor fecal and urine output, water consumption and appetite.
STEREOTYPICAL BEHAVIORS
Weaving, pacing and cribbing are just a few of the concerning behaviors that can develop if a horse goes on stall rest. Horses are always looking for something to do.
High-strung horses and those from highintensity careers are more likely to develop these behaviors while on stall rest. When that high-intensity job is taken away, they should be provided with some type of enrichment.
That can be anything from a jolly ball to treat balls with grain hidden inside, Splash toys, salt licks, companion animals, whether in the stall with them or at least visible, or even slow hay feeders, can make stall life tolerable. For some horses, over-the-counter calming supplements may be required. In extreme cases, your veterinarian may provide your horse with a prescription for a tranquilizer.
If your veterinarian advises it, hand walking can be beneficial for stall-bound horses.
TIPS AND BEST PRACTICES
Despite the challenges involved, there are some strategies you can undertake to improve the stall rest experience for your horse. One of these is stall size. Recommendations for stall size will vary not only by the size of the horse but also by the reason that your horse
Injuries are one of the most common reasons for a horse to need stall rest.
BETTER HORSES
has been prescribed stall rest. Some reasons require more restrictions on movement than others. At a minimum, the horse should be able to turn around and lay down, then easily get back up.
Another practice is hand walking. If prescribed by your veterinarian, a combination of hand walking and grazing for five to 10 minutes three times a day can be extremely beneficial for horses on stall rest. Walking and bacteria found in the grass can work to keep the intestines moving and, therefore, help to ward off a case of colic.
In addition to being an enjoyable practice for you both, talking with your horse and grooming him can help alleviate boredom. Playing classical music on the radio can be calming for horses. During the summer months, fans, if practical, are another way to improve your horse’s comfort level by helping to alleviate the heat and keep flies at bay. Finally, you should talk with your veterinarian about any changes in the nutritional needs of your horse as a result of its decreased activity level.
CONCLUDING THE TREATMENT
With everything that goes into it, whether your horse’s prescribed stall rest has been quick or lengthy, you’ll no doubt be looking forward to its conclusion. But even this requires careful preparation.
For extended stays, your veterinarian will likely provide a rehabilitation schedule that you should carefully follow to ensure a full recovery. For shorter stays, controlled exercise. Turning horses out into an open field immediately after coming off stall rest, increases the likelihood of re-injury. Finally, when the horse is on stall rest, calming supplements and tranquilizers prescribed by your veterinarian can help fractious horses to make a smoother return to their normal lifestyle.
WELCOME FERGUS TO THE BETTER HORSES FAMILY
OUTLAW RANCH COWGIRL CHALLENGE
BY ANGELA JOBE
The girls trip to Williamsburg, Iowa, Outlaw Ranch Cowgirl Challenge with my sister and niece began like many others. We were talking and then missed our turn. Next thing we know we ended up on some back road in Missouri. This is where we witnessed roosters tethered out in a field. Each with individual huts surrounded by an electric fence. At this point we decided we should check our GPS and quickly realized we were headed northwest instead of northeast. We still don’t know what the rooster situation was about but we did make it to Outlaw Ranch with plenty of time to get the horses settled in for the night and us to bed to get ready for an exciting day.
2024 was the third year of the Outlaw Ranch Cowgirl Challenge. Madison Ehret, daughter of the ranch owner, decided after attending several similar challenges in Illinois and Wisconsin that she wanted to host her own challenge. The comradery and just plain fun competition was something she was excited to share with her friends, family and others. Each competitor signed up to compete in one woman sorting, one woman penning, barrel racing and an obstacle challenge in either the Youth, Open, or Annie Oakley division.
Competition day started out brisk and cool. Many of the horses were frisky in the crisp air of the outdoor warm up arena. Each competitor immersed in their warm up routines with their horses. Some walking, some trotting, a few hopping here and there enjoying the spirit of their fresh horses. The first event was an obstacle course, set up inside their indoor arena.
Around 9:30 a.m. competitors began to gather around checking to see the order draw. We were anxious and excited to see what the course entailed. Arena workers drug out a bridge, ground poles, a rope gate, mail box,
and pole bending poles as we watched a course created. The course and rules were explained and the competition began at 10:00 a.m..
The open division competed first. I was second up in the obstacle competition. We had a smooth ride with only one penalty and held the lead until a handy cowgirl came in with a smooth flawless ride and swept the course with zero penalties resulting in a faster time by a few seconds! All the women cheered and shouted words of encouragement each time a new competitor graced the arena.
Sorting, penning and barrel racing events followed. In between events our noses took us to the parking lot where the mesmerizing smell of pizza convinced us to purchase from a pizza truck. Free cupcakes soothed our sweet tooth in the registration area.
The event ran like a well-oiled machine. Obstacles set up and torn down. Barrels set up and taken down. Cattle pens were built in record breaking speed. 60 competitors from
ages 8 to 65 were finished with four events and the awards ceremony by 4:00 p.m..
It was a successful weekend! I ended up with 2nd place Obstacle Race, 8th barrel race, 6th in penning and a no time in sorting that resulted in a 5th place finish overall. My niece won the youth obstacle completion and placed 6th in youth barrel racing also giving her a 5th place finish overall. We both took home a life time of laughs, new friendships and excitement and ideas on how to improve for next years event.
This event is certainly one I look forward to again! Each and every level of competitor was welcomed. Some of the women were seasoned competitors, some beginners. Some of the horses had never seen a barrel pattern while some zipped around the cloverleaf pattern looking like they should be headed to the NFR! We celebrated our accomplishments together and felt the disappointment as if it was our own when ones ride didn’t go as hoped. I think next time before we leave we will set the GPS!
Rounding out the first barrel, Angela Jobe competes in the annual Outlaw Ranch Cowgirl Challenge.
PROTECTIVE MINDSET OF THE HORSE
BY KERRY KUHN
When I approach a horse, I’m looking for certain spots on their body they might get easily bothered by. Obviously, I’m going to have to earn their trust before I can even get my hand on them. But while I’m earning that trust, I’m already noticing if they seem to be sensitive in certain areas. And the way I like to look at those areas is understanding the horse thinks they have to protect themselves from me in those areas. This perspective reminds me that I need to make sure I help my horse(s) change their mind about these spots.
Typically, the four most sensitive spots on a horse are their head (which covers the mouth, eyes, and ears), their legs, their flank, and under their tail. If a horse is reactive around any of these areas, I will work with them until whatever I’m doing doesn’t bother them anymore. A horse in a protective state of mind will usually be very reactive to things, especially in those areas. So if I look at those areas as if my horse feels like he needs to protect himself from me, then it makes it much easier for me to understand why they
are behaving the way they are. And as long as they feel the need to protect themselves, they will not relax and soften towards me.
So let’s think about those four specific areas. If I’m sitting on the back of a horse, I won’t ever be very far from any of those spots. So chances are, my horse is going to stay uptight the entire time because to them I am ‘in the vicinity’ of those areas. That protective state of mind will influence the horse a lot while I am riding them so it’s going to be pretty difficult to get them more willing to follow my lead. I definitely shouldn’t be shocked if they are struggling to find what I’m trying to show them. It’s as if that protective state has their mind stuck in one place and unable to process what you’re teaching.
I work with people quite often who are riding horses that struggle a great deal with this concept. And I find myself telling those riders that until they show that horse he doesn’t have to protect that spot of their body from them, they will continue to be
reactive. Once you help a horse make that paradigm shift in their mind, and they no longer feel they need to protect themselves in any area, their entire being can relax. It’s at this point that a horse becomes more willing and attentive to what you, as a rider, have to offer. Horses in a protective state have very few options in their mind. Our job is to create a new perspective in the horse which in turn gives them many more options to choose from, other than just being reactive. So instead of just saying your horse is spooky, maybe saying your horse is in a ‘protective state’ will allow you to see your role more clearly while building an approach that can help them turn loose of that.
Our goal at Kerry Kuhn Horsemanship is to help educate, inspire, and empower people to become better leaders, better riders, and better communicators with their horses. You can find out more information about our clinics, our products, and our Empower Team at www. KerryKuhn.com.
HELP FOR THE TIMID RIDER
BY DANA HOKANA
Are you a timid rider? I believe that most of us at some time or another have moments of feeling timid, hesitant, or afraid on a horse. In certain situations, and on certain horses, there may be times when it is wise to be hesitant or timid. Your intuition may be telling you to back off! However, there may be other times when your timidity turns into fear and you freeze or give wrong signals to your horse. You may even be unconsciously telling your horse that you are afraid, giving him the upper hand. When you give a fearful response over and over, he may learn to be spooky or naughty!
I have tips that will help you to master your fears and insecurity. These tips will also help you to gain a better relationship with your horse.
IDENTIFY WHY YOU ARE AFRAID OR TIMID
I feel that it is very important to honestly evaluate or assess yourself as a rider. Also look at why you may be struggling with being timid or fearful. Search yourself and do your best to be totally honest about yourself. I recommend you get some feedback from someone that you trust, especially if you are hard on yourself or do a lot of negative self-talking. People often don’t see themselves clearly. Sometimes just identifying your strengths and weaknesses will help you to overcome them. When you are not aware or mindful of them, you can’t work on them.
If you struggle with fear, ask yourself why. You may have had a bad experience that is haunting you, or you may be honestly intimidated by the size of a horse. You may just have had so many bad experiences that they outweigh the positive confidence building ones in your mind. Research has shown that a negative experience will impact you and stay with you longer than a
positive one. So, give yourself a lot of positive experiences to overcome the negative ones.
BECOME AWARE OF WHAT YOUR BODY DOES AS YOU TENSE UP
When you become tense mentally, your body will also exhibit signs of tension. Your horse will definitely be able to feel subtle and significant changes in your body. I often teach people that a horse is full of moveable joints and parts, as well as your human body. One of your goals in becoming a confident rider is to be able to move and flow with your horse. When you tense up, your body will usually resist the horse’s movement and energy flow, and interfere or move against your horse. This is very uncomfortable for your horse. Think of it from the horse’s perspective. If you and your horse are moving together, you are catching his rhythm. Then all of a sudden, you see something before he does that might spook him. You then may: 1. Stop your breathing or take short, shallow breaths; 2. Tense your seat and stop moving with your horse; 3. Lean forward or; 4. Tense up through your hands or grab his mouth.
Your horse feels your fear through your body, and your body signals are like a loud alarm going off that danger is near. He may then see that “boogie man” and believe you that it is scary. He will then spook, just as you feared he would. You told him in a lot of ways that he was unsafe. This is how riders can teach or program their horses to spook! The next time you tense up your body, your horse is looking for danger.
Here are some tips to help control your body signals when you feel yourself tensing up:
Stay Breathing
Take deep, full breaths and breathe using your diaphragm. Many times, you can breathe your way past a potential spook or steady your
nervous horse in a class at a show. When you continue with rhythmic breathing, you build his confidence and reinforce that he needs to listen to you. Deep, full breathing also keeps your spine and hips in the correct position on your horse.
Stay Moving with Your Pelvis
Focus on your horse’s rhythm, and unlock your seat to stay moving with him.
If he were to jump or spook and your seat were locked, you would have more of a chance of losing your balance. If you are flowing with your horse, your body will stay in the middle of him much easier.
Keep Your Hands Relaxed
I was once taught a trick that if you close your thumb and forefinger together, it will keep your hands relaxed and soft. Do your best to avoid tensing with your hands. Of course, if you need to hang on, do so… but keep your hands and their reactions separate from your body!
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT HORSE FOR YOU
Check Your Personality with Your Horse’s Personality
After you have given thought to your own abilities, also consider your personality type. Are you nervous or patient and slow? Fast thinking and reactive people can often make fast thinking horses nervous. Horses, just like people, have a variety of personality types, energy levels, and confidence levels! Take a look at your horse and yourself, and see if you are a good match.
Check Your Level of Experience with Your Horse’s Level of Experience
It’s often said a green horse and a green rider aren’t a good match. A green rider will usually do better with an older, more experienced,
confidence building horse. It can be a disaster if the personality types are a mismatch as well! If you are a timid, inexperienced rider, don’t pick a jumpy, reactive, green horse. If you are determined to choose a green horse due to your spending budget, or if you just want the experience, choose a slow thinking, slow reacting, willing horse. One that is not too dull or too sensitive. Horses like people can be extremely sensitive and thin skinned, or they can be thick skinned and dull!
The better suited you are with your horse, the more success you will have!
HOW TO TELL WHEN TO BACK OFF
In this article, my goal is to teach you to become more aware of yourself, your ability, and your own body, as well as to give you tools to help you gain control of your horse. I also want to impart to you the importance of knowing when to back off. If your horse feels like he is going to blow up, or you are losing control of where his feet are underneath you, you need to protect yourself. If my horse feels really high, I will get off and lunge my horse. If you don’t know what to do, or feel out of control, seek the help of a professional.
HOW TO REGAIN CONTROL
Here is one exercise that is extremely helpful. It is called “Follow the Nose”. I do this exercise often and if I have a difficult or scared horse, I will practice it a lot – even
when he’s not scared. By doing this, it becomes a place of familiarity to him when he is scared. It is helpful because it puts your horse in a circle, and circles are very relaxing to your horse. It also allows you to regain control of his steps and his face because you are asking him to bend his head and neck, and step forward. It will also allow you to regain control of your horse’s attention and his feet. It redirects his mind towards you and your cues, and reminds him that you are in control!
Start the exercise by riding two handed and ask him with a direct rein cue to bend his head to one side. Use your hand soft and draw or pull without bumping if possible. Your direction of pull should be out to the side as if you were bringing your hand to the center of where his circle would be. Notice as you ask him to walk forward if he is stepping up and forward to his face. Many horses will drift out or cut in and try to make their own circle. Just reposition your hand accordingly to ask him to step up and forward. If he sucks back or refuses, just open up the circle and encourage him forward. I can tell if my horse is drifting or leaning if I start in one place and he takes me to another. Set a 10- or 15-foot circle in your mind and ask his body to stay on it. That is the secret to this exercise. Once he will let you drive and control his steps, he will usually relax. It puts you back in control. It should never be done in a punishing, angry manner,
While working through ride anxiety, Hokana notes it’s important to address the reason for the fear behind riding.
but rather that you are taking his face and body and directing his steps. It takes his mind off of what is bothering him and puts you back in control.
HOW TO GAIN CONFIDENCE
Visualize yourself in control. If you have an intimidating or scary situation, visualize yourself getting through it with great success!
Use wisdom and be cautious. If you aren’t comfortable, don’t do it! Don’t let fear run you, but always use wisdom!
Set yourself up with a horse that will build your confidence.
Set yourself up for a good ride by making sure your horse is tired enough to think about working!
Use positive self-talk! Coach yourself, tell yourself you can do it. Don’t ever put yourself down.
Pick a coach or trainer who is reassuring, gentle, and uses wisdom regarding when to push you and when to back off.
Practice controlling your body. Remember your seat, your breathing, finding the horse’s rhythm, and keeping your hands soft and light.
I hope these tips help you to become the best rider that you can be! If you would like to learn more about becoming a more confident rider, please check out www.hokana.com
A HYDRATED HORSE IS A HEALTHY HORSE
BY BETTER HORSES STAFF
Question: Getting a horse to drink enough water has been a challenge for a long time. So long, in fact, that “you can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make him drink” is the oldest English-language proverb still in use, appearing for the first time in the year 1175. We’ve all heard it, and most of us have had first-hand experience trying to disprove it with horses of our own. But what makes it so familiar?
Answer: Chances are, you’re both dehydrated. Dehydration is common among horses, with some studies suggesting that dehydrated horses are more common than hydrated horses, even though the majority of caretakers don’t realize it. Horses are in good company— studies also show that 75% of people are dehydrated themselves. And that isn’t the only thing you have in common with your horse. Both you and your horse are approximately two-thirds water, which means that when you ride an average-sized, 1000-lb horse, you’re sitting on 660 pounds, equivalent to 80 gallons of water. Only a third of that water is used outside the cells (in the stomach or blood, for example) and the rest is used within the cells, playing a critical role in every cellular function.
You and your horse also lose moisture constantly, through sweat, urine and other natural processes. Without an adequate supply of water—maybe he’s on the trail and can’t drink, or maybe he simply won’t drink the water you provide—your horse’s body compensates by shuttling fluid from one area to another. Nature has decided that overheating is a more immediate threat than dehydration, so he sweats even when it means robbing fluid from cellular processes that quickly begin to suffer.
Then why doesn’t he just drink?
As dehydration begins to impact performance, your similarity to your horse begins to fade away. Your thirst instinct is triggered much sooner than your horse’s because of chemical differences in our sweat. Increased sodium concentration in blood (horse or human) triggers thirst, but because he loses so much more sodium in his sweat than you do, he doesn’t even realize he should be thirsty until he’s already lost about 32 pounds of body weight. By then, dehydration has already become a problem, your horse isn’t feeling his best, and colic is much more likely.
INTRODUCE A THIRST TRIGGER
When it comes to re-hydration, we can simplify complicated chemical processes into two areas: replacing lost water, and replacing lost electrolytes. (Electrolytes are essentially the same elements found in seawater: sodium, potassium, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium. Without them, muscles and cells can’t function.)
This is one of the biggest reasons you see salt blocks in every stable and pasture. When your horse licks salt, he begins to restore depleted sodium and chloride electrolytes. Perhaps more importantly, salt triggers his thirst instinct, and he begins to replace lost water. But if you’ve had a horse reject his salt lick, you already know the next problem: horses are notoriously picky eaters, and many horses dislike traditional salt and mineral blocks. If he doesn’t like the taste, he doesn’t lick the salt. If he doesn’t lick the salt, he doesn’t drink. And if he doesn’t drink, he doesn’t rehydrate.
A THIRST TRIGGER HE WON’T REJECT
Frustrated by horses rejecting processed salt and mineral blocks, many horse owners have rediscovered natural salt mineral licks. The major brands come from two sources: Himalayan brands, mined and shipped from Pakistan, and Redmond Rock, mined and shipped from Central Utah. Both sources provide natural rocks mined from ancient sea beds, which means your horse gets natural sea salt along with more than 60 trace minerals, in the same ratio as seawater, that become excellent building blocks in natural electrolyte replacement. More importantly, horses prefer the taste of natural salt mineral licks—they go back to the rocks again and again, triggering their natural thirst response, often putting an end to dehydration.
We may not be able to make a horse drink, but when we understand why, and provide natural mineral salt in a form they actually enjoy, we can work with nature and help our animals avoid dehydration and the serious health problems that come with it.
Dehydration is one of the biggest reasons for impacted performance in horses
SCRATCHES: KEEP THIS CONDITION FROM TURNING CHRONIC
BY EQUUS-TV
Pasterns often become crusty and scabby when ‘mud season’ turns paddocks into soupy messes. But left untreated, a simple case of scratches can escalate into a painful, chronic condition.
Scratches is the common term for pastern dermatitis, an inflammation of the skin that develops between the heels and the fetlocks. Affected areas become scabby and crusty, sometimes oozing clear or yellowish serum.
Usually, the result of repeated wetting and drying, scratches develops when bacteria or fungi invade through tiny wounds or cracks in the skin’s surface. Although scratches can occur at any time of year, it is seen more frequently when horses are turned out in wet environments.
You can probably treat scratches on your own, and most cases will clear up quickly with proper care. But if your horse develops persistent or severe scratches, you’ll want to seek your veterinarian’s help.
WHAT TO DO
• Rinse your horse’s legs. Move your horse into a dry area and hose off dirt, mud and other debris on his lower legs. You may want to carefully trim the longer hair on his pasterns to better expose the skin to the air.
• Cleanse the affected area with an antiseptic wash. Choose a product that contains two percent chlorhexidine or benzoyl peroxide, and use it as directed. Avoid products with higher concentrations of these agents because they can further irritate the skin.
• Dry the skin thoroughly. You may want to use a hair dryer at a low setting.
• Apply an antibiotic ointment. This step isn’t strictly necessary, but in addition to helping to kill bacteria, a thicker ointment may form a protective barrier over the skin.
• Repeat as needed. Clean and treat the affected skin every two to three days until the infection clears. Most cases of scratches heal within two weeks.
• Address the cause. If your horse developed scratches after spending too much time in wet turnout areas, you may need to find him a drier paddock or pasture. Also consider longer-term solutions, such as laying down gravel in chronically wet areas or taking other steps to improve drainage. It may take some detective work to discover the cause. Scratches may develop when a horse’s skin is chronically irritated by bell boots that don’t fit or environmental conditions such as coarse arena footing. In other cases, the skin is irritated by chemically treated bedding materials.
WHAT NOT TO DO
• Do not use “home remedies” on scratches. Bleach, antifungal sprays meant for plants and other caustic chemicals can injure the skin and make the inflammation much worse.
• Do not try to pick off the scabs. They are very painful to the horse, and tugging at scabs may get you kicked. The scabs ought to soften and slough off on their own within a few days as the skin heals.
CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN IF
• The scratches infection grows worse despite treatment or does not heal within two weeks. Your veterinarian will want to rule out other conditions, such as vasculitis or mange, which can look very similar to scratches. In addition, a prescription medication or a different treatment may be needed if the infection proves to be fungal rather than bacterial in origin.
• The affected legs start to swell. If pathogens penetrate the outer layers of the skin, a serious infection of the deeper tissues may result, leading to painful swelling. You’ll want your veterinarian to begin treatment promptly.
• The scratches infection recurs persistently, despite treatment and changes in the horse’s living conditions. Some horses are just more prone to scratches. But if yours seems to be constantly affected when others around him are not, your veterinarian will want to investigate the reasons why. One possibility is that your horse has an underlying disorder that affects his immune function.
BEST MANURE MANAGEMENT PRACTICES ON HORSE FARMS
These manure management tips will help you reduce waste and dispose of manure in a safe way.
BY BETTER HORSES STAFF
Manure management on horse farms is the bane of horse and farm ownership. The U.S. Department of Agriculture states one horse produces 50 pounds of manure and urine per day. If you add used bedding to that equation, it’s a sizable amount of daily stall waste to deal with, which can cause chore inefficiency and unsightliness if not handled properly.
Living with manure can cause health problems for horses (e.g., parasite infestation), create excess dust in summer and mud in winter, and provide a breeding ground for insect pests. Additionally, manure is a potential source of nonpoint pollution if its runoff reaches ditches, creeks, ponds, or groundwater.
Here are four recommended best management practices (BMPs) for dealing with manure on horse properties.
COMPOSTING
For horse owners with pasture or cropland, composting is typically the number one recommended manure management option. Before fertilizers were readily available and popularized, farmers composted livestock manure and food scraps and spread the finished product on pastures, crops, and gardens. Spreading fresh manure is not advisable because of the risk of spreading parasites, pathogens, and weed seeds, but spreading compost is excellent for soil health and pasture productivity.
Managing the composting process involves harnessing naturally occurring microorganisms to break down the stall waste. Monitoring the air and water in the compost pile will help you provide a suitable environment for microorganisms, which in turn generate the heat to kill parasites, pathogens, and weed seeds. To achieve a
healthy microbial population, keep the pile aerobic (oxygenated) and somewhat damp. You can apply finished compost in a thin layer to pastures, lawns, gardens, and crops during the growing season. Compost is a rich soil amendment that adds life to soil and helps hold in moisture.
To implement this option, you will need a chore-efficient area in which to compost that’s big enough to accommodate the equipment you will be using. Make sure this area has easy access to the pastures or garden areas where you plan to use the finished compost.
GIVE AWAY APPROACH
Another BMP is to give away all manure and stall waste. This is particularly useful for small horse farms and works well in areas with gardening neighbors or landscape companies nearby. Barns in rural or agricultural locations might be able to find nearby crop farmers, plant nurseries, or topsoil businesses interested in picking up stall waste.
To implement this option, you will need a storage area in a chore-efficient location that’s convenient for stall cleaning chores as well as for those who’ll be picking it up regularly, such as along a driveway or farm road.
HAULING OFF PROPERTY
Another option is hauling manure and stall waste off your property to a place that can utilize it. Don’t take it to a landfill— manure is a renewable resource and, like other recyclables such as paper or glass bottles, it should not take up valuable space in a landfill. Once set up, this option might require less energy and time on your part but will initially require some research and investigation. Sites that might take your manure include topsoil companies, composting facilities, crop farmers, or plant nurseries.
To implement this option, you will need equipment for hauling, such as a truck and dump trailer, and the means to get daily stall waste into the dump trailer (such as a dump ramp). Plus, these types of receiving sites usually charge a “tipping” fee, which can become expensive.
REDUCE STALL WASTE
The final BMP is to look at ways to reduce the amount of stall waste currently being generated by considering ways to reduce bedding use. This option represents a costsavings for the facility owner because it means less waste by volume to manage, less cost for bedding, less storage area needed for bedding, and reduced environmental impacts by using fewer natural resources.
Consider using less bedding by applying only the amount needed for absorbing urine and moisture. Rubber stall mats are useful because the level stall floor makes it quick and easy to scoop out soiled bedding. Alternative beddings such as pelleted bedding or shredded newspaper offer greater absorbency and improved composability, reducing the amount of bedding required.
MIX AND MATCH
In most situations, the best solution is going to be a combination of the BMPs above and might require creative thinking and research to come up with a workable option. Don’t be afraid to reach out to experts and government sources for help determining the best manure management solution for your farm.
Fixed-Formula Products
Fortified & Balanced Available at select MFA retail locations
MEET TARA MYERS, YOUR SERVICE-FIRST REAL ESTATE AGENT
Growing up in a military family, I know the challenges of moving After decades in operational and customer service management, real estate was a natural fit I focus on creating ease, calm, and control for clients as a service-minded Buyers & Sellers Agent
I set realistic expectations by understanding:
• Motivation to buy or sell
Timing and scheduling needs
Financial situation
Priorities
Transparent communication and process clarity ease the stress of buying or selling a home
I specialize in rural properties and acreage As a lifelong horse enthusiast and owner of a 30-acre hobby farm, I help buyers navigate the realities of rural life, including animal care, budgeting for equipment, and commuting. With preparation, rural living can combine the charm of the country with modern conveniences.
Want an agent who puts relationship building at the forefront of our work together?
I'm looking forward to both work and personal goals in 2025
THE PICK UP
BY DANA HOKANA
As riders, we strive to become better and to understand how to ride, to develop a proper and good relationship with our horses. Being good and mindful with your hands is one way to either build that relationship or hurt it. These are some tips to establish a great relationship with your horse through your hands.
First you must realize you can take ahold of your horse’s face. But also realize that how you approach him with your hands is equal to how you would speak to a person. If your approach is sharp, jerky or rough you have “yelled” at him with your hands and he may be on the defensive. The biggest thing you can do to change his response is to change your approach to him. Here are some secrets to good hands.
The “pick up” consists of several parts. The “pick up” is what I call the action of when you connect with his mouth, using your hands. How you perform your pickup is directly related to how good of hands you have. I encourage you to strive to study and learn these techniques. The three components of the pickup are:
• Your Approach
• The Connection
• The Release
YOUR APPROACH
This is such an important part, as it is the start of your communication with your horse with your hands. Do your best to make sure initial contact is smooth and fair. Don’t come in with a rough or rigid jerk. I teach my riders that it is ok to bump or correct your horse in the face as long as you are in contact. If you jerk or bump with no warning “out of midair” so to speak you will scare your horse and teach him to brace against your hands. When you pick up on the reins just draw up smooth and
slow until you are in contact with his mouth then make any corrections as needed.
THE CONNECTION
Once you’ve made contact with your horse’s mouth you now have to make the decision if you need to pull or bump your horse in the face or simply just hold him. This is where feel comes into play. Do your best to “feel” with your hands what your horse is doing at the end of the bridle reins. Which leads me to make a point to you. If your horse is ever pulling the reins out of your hands, he is basically controlling your pull or pickup. This can reinforce the very bad habit of a horse throwing his head. By allowing him to pull the reins out of your hands you are giving him a positive reward for his negative behavior. Which will make him do it even more and more. Make sure you are mindful about your hold on the reins and don’t let those reins slide through your hands! Don’t give your horse any stronger correction than is needed to get the desired response. Remember the pounds of pressure that you use to pull or bump on your horse is intensified or magnified when you use a shank bridle to the degree of severity of the bit. If you are in a snaffle, it is close to the same pounds of pressure as you actually apply with your hands. So, ride very mindful of this and don’t add any more pressure than you need. That will develop trust in your horse. Also make sure you give a clear message. Riding this way will take a lot of focus and for myself I have found that if I am really working on a horse, I have to limit my outside distractions or I may get heavy handed and lose the feel I am trying to develop. You are building a relationship with your horse so be a fair partner. Follow through is another important component of this phase of the pickup. Follow through is nothing more than asking
until you get a response. This also requires feel and awareness. It means to stay in or follow through until you are satisfied with the amount your horse gives. Be clear and give a clear message and your horse will learn faster. I look for my horse to give in the face but also to soften or lighten in my hands. Then I know I’m ready to release.
THE RELEASE
Once you are satisfied with your horse and the amount that he gave, then you want to release or give back to him with your hands. I like to release in a smooth slow motion. I also want to recommend that when you release, you are truly released. Make sure you give enough rein so that the pressure (or contact) changed enough so that he truly felt the release. The release is his reward. Horses learn by that reward and they look for the reward so make your message clear and make sure he realizes that he is being rewarded.
I’ve just given you a lesson on how to use your hands more effectively. If you study that and put it to practice you will start seeing some good results with all the horses that you ride.
Also, a word of warning. As in all the horses that you ride, if, when you are in contact with their face, they show any signs of wanting to rear or becoming dangerous, stop what you are doing and get the help of a professional.
Building a good relationship with your horse is worth the effort. Our hands are one of, if not the main method of communication we use when we ride, so learning to use your hands fairly and effectively is a very valuable use of your time. Good luck to you and your horse!
2025 USDA HORSE PROTECTION ACT (HPA) RULE OVERVIEW
BY THE HUMANE SOCIETY OF THE UNITED STATES
WHAT IS THE HORSE PROTECTION ACT OF 1970?
The Horse Protection Act (HPA) is a federal law prohibiting sored horses from participating in shows, exhibitions, sales or auctions and the transportation of sored horses to or from these events. All horses are included, at all covered events. Events where speed is the primary factor, rodeo events, parades and trail rides are excluded.
WHAT DOES THE HPA DO?
• Defines a sore horse
• Establishes a system for the identification of sore horses at covered events and the
CATEGORY
GENERAL RESPONSIBILITY
INSPECTORS
NUMBER OF INSPECTORS
ACTION DEVICES AND PADS
penalization of those found in violation of the law.
• Authorizes the United State Department of Agriculture (USDA) to enforce the Act and establish regulations that outline how enforcement will be conducted and specify what devices, substances and practices are prohibited.
WHO IS COVERED BY THE HPA?
• All horses and individuals participating in covered events and the management of those events. Participation does not include spectating.
• USDA has provided guidance on what it considers a covered event. This may evolve over time within the parameters of the HPA.
• USDA regulations under the HPA place specific prohibitions and limitations on all horses at covered events, and even further restrictions on two named breeds – Tennessee Walking and racking horses –breeds that have historically been impacted by soring.
REQUIREMENTS PRIOR TO 2025
Event management is responsible for preventing the participation of sore horses.
Management could (but was not required to) hire an industry inspector (Designated Qualified Person, (DQP)) to examine horses for compliance and relieve themselves from liability.
Events with more than 150 horses required at least two inspectors if hired.
All covered events: prohibitions on chains, boots, other devices more than 6 ounces, some artificial toe extensions, some types of pads and shoes. See §11.6 of the rule for details.
NEW REQUIREMENTS AS OF FEBRUARY 2025
Event management is responsible for preventing sore horses but must report covered events to USDA and adhere to increased restrictions on Tennessee Walking and racking horses.
Management may (but is not required to) request a USDA Veterinary Medical Officer (VMO) or hire a USDA-approved Horse Protection Inspector (HPI) to examine horses for compliance and relieve themselves from liability.
Events with more than 100 horses require at least two inspectors if requested or hired.
Action devices, substances above the hoof and pads (except for therapeutic pads prescribed by a veterinarian) are explicitly prohibited for Tennessee Walking and racking horses.
No new requirements for all other breeds.
table from page 28
CATEGORY
REPORTING BEFORE EVENTS
REQUIREMENTS PRIOR TO 2025
NEW REQUIREMENTS AS OF FEBRUARY 2025
No specific requirement to notify the USDA before events.
REPORTING AFTER EVENTS
For events with Tennessee Walking and racking horses, management submits report on horses disqualified, including if no disqualification, within 5 days.
For all other events, management must notify the USDA within 5 days of any horse excused or disqualified for soring.
NOTIFICATION CHANGES
NEW REQUIREMENTS AS OF 2025:
• Ban on action devices, substances above the hoof, pads on Tennessee Walking and racking horses.
• DQP program replaced with USDAapproved HPIs or VMOs for independent inspections.
• Event organizers must notify the USDA before events and report results of events including Tennessee Walking and racking horses, including disqualifications for violations. All other events must report any disqualifications for violations.
Limited regulatory oversight over changes to event details.
KEY COMPLIANCE ACTIONS FOR COVERED EVENTS
Before the Event:
• Notify USDA at least 30 days in advance.
• Decide whether or not to request a VMO or hire an HPI.
• Update USDA on changes at least 15 days prior.
During the Event:
• Ensure no sored horses participate.
• Comply with prohibitions on action devices, substances and pads (other
All covered events must notify the USDA at least 30 days before the event. Notification must include event details, whether an HPI or VMO will be used, and if therapeutic pads will be permitted on Tennessee Walking and racking horses.
For events with Tennessee Walking and racking horses reporting requirements remain, but management must also submit detailed post-event results within 5 days, including detailed reasons for disqualification.
For all other events the management must submit information within 5 days to USDA about any case where a horse excused or disqualified for soring.
Management must notify the USDA of any changes to event details at least 15 days in advance of the event.
than therapeutic pads prescribed by a veterinarian) on Tennessee Walking and racking horses.
After the Event:
• Submit required reports to USDA within 5 days.
• For more information and current guidance visit the USDA HPA website: Horse Protection Act www.aphis.usda.gov/hpa
Better Horses
Connolly Equine
Color Breed Congress
Heritage Livestock
Heritage Tractors
Hoof Grip
Kansas State University Vet Health Center
KC Property Shop
Kansas Horse Mafia
Kerry Kuhn Horsemanship
Linaweaver Construction
Mark Gratny Quarter Horses
Max Motors
MFA Oil
AROUND THE FARM WINTER TIPS
BY MAGGIE STONECIPHER
2025 has started off cold and snowy! Over the years I have learned a few things from boarding up to 50 horses and here are some of my winter tips that help me manage during these cold months. I only have five horses now but regardless of how many you are managing, having a plan will save time and effort when just being outside is challenging. And if your farm is for sale, will also showcase how straightforward it is to manage in the winter months!
Water Management – when you have horses or livestock, water management can be the most challenging winter task, but it is also the most critical. Being able to use trough heaters and heated water buckets cuts down on chores but also helps keep horses healthy. If you can’t use a trough heater, surround your trough with straw bales and cover ¾ of top with thick plywood painted black. This will help insulate the trough and the black paint will absorb the heat of the sun.
Extension Cord Management – horses are notorious for reaching anything so better to use as few as possible. If you do have to use extension cords, run them through heavy duty
plastic pipe. A cheap and safe way to keep your horses safe and your farm looking tidy.
Hoses – I zip tie a black heavy-duty pipe at a slight angle along the fence by my pasture water troughs. I store my hose in the pipe, so it stays straight and the angle lets it drain so water does not freeze in the hose. And the black pipe absorbs the heat of the sun which helps as well. I also only keep as much hose as I need by cutting it if needed.
Power Outage – It’s going to happen and if you rely on a well for water, a power outage can leave you dry. A backup generator saves the day but if that is not an option, start filling extra gallon jugs, liter soda bottles, etc. with water and store in a warm place to get you through at least 24 hours. You can also use snow by filling buckets and placing in a garage or other warm area.
Hauling Supplies – A plastic sled makes a great substitute for a wheelbarrow in the mud, snow and ice. Have one on hand to use around the barn. And it’s ready for sledding when done at the barn!
Horse Trailer Ready for Emergencies – Make sure to park your trailer where you can get to it for when you need it. Wrap the hitch with bubble wrap and duct take to keep it dry and free from ice and snow. Keep a couple bags of shavings for in the trailer also if you need traction. Place your wheels on wood boards so they don’t sink or freeze to the ground.
Filthy Winter Blankets – Keep a lightweight sheet on over your winter blankets. Then you just have to wash the lightweight sheet rather than dragging your heavy blankets to the laundry mat!
Cold Hands – Layer latex surgical gloves under your work gloves. Helps keep your hands warmer longer. I also have three sets of gloves so as soon as my fingers start to get cold, I change gloves. Amazing how much that helps keep me warm as I am doing chores.
Check & Stock up on Emergency Supplies –Make sure your first aid kits for both horses and humans are well stocked and stored in a warm place. Frozen Neosporin takes time to thaw!
Hay Management – Stock up on hay for the winter long before the cold and snow. Have always at least four weeks of hay on stock and more if you can! Hay prices are at a premium in the winter and often supplies are short in the spring. Also make sure to put extra hay out ahead of frigid or wintery weather. We put round bales in or just outside our run-in sheds so that the horses can stay protected while still getting their forage.
Maggie Stonecipher operates The Property Shop at Keller Williams Partners. A seasoned, experienced Realtor, Maggie and her husband, Mike, live on their farm with their horses, dogs and cats.
9969 D Highway, Napoleon MO 64074
30 Minutes to Downtown Kansas City 22 Minutes to Arrowhead On Blacktop - Peaceful Country Living 8 Stalls with Indoor & Outdoor Arenas Auto-Waterers in Pastures
5 Bed, 6 Bath 4200+ Sq Ft Main Floor Primary Huge Great Room for Family & Friends to Gather Offered at $1,050,000
Stunning 27+/- acre property (2 parcels) with a 4200+ sq ft updated home and fantastic horse facilities located on blacktopp less than 30 minutes to downtown KC. This 5 bedroom home greets you with the huge front porch overlooking the white vinyl fenced pastures perfect for enjoying the morning sunrise. Enter the home with your traditional dining and living room before entering into the incredible 2020 addition with the two story great room and updated kitchen. Huge windows provide natural light with the stunning stone fireplace. The open kitchen makes this where family with gather for years to come. Huge main floor primary master suite is private and comfortable! Upstairs offers 4 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms with a loft overlooking the great room. Off the main floor mud room & laundry room is staircase to a bonus room over the 2 car garage. And if you need more space, head downstairs for the perfect family/game room with new carpet, a full bathroom and an exercise room. Wow! There is also an great 2 car outbuilding perfect for all your equipment and toys. Walk out to your beautiful barn with 8 stalls, grain room and lovely tack room. The wide open aisle leads to the indoor arena big enough for riding on those rainy or chilly days.The propery is fenced and cross-fenced with a huge hay field providing the current owners with all their hay needs. And if you wanted more, there is also a lovely pond and fruit trees.
