EliteGen《星尚》 2015 VANCOUVER December Luxury Magazine (Chinese/English) by 事事如意 ccue.ca

A publication by Sing Tao Media Group December

Vancouver

December 2015 Vol. 13

2 15 CHRISTmaS MERRY XMas

GIfT GuIde Yang Mi : acting on her aMbition

Yang Mi Acting on her Ambition

楊冪一個女演員的野心名錶世代Watch NeWs

bulgAri, rolex, piAget

2016巴黎春夏時裝周

EliteGen.singtao.ca

2016 Paris

Spring-Summer FAShion Week CAN$4.99

masthead 13

A publication by Sing Tao Media Group December

Vancouver

December 2015 Vol. 13

2 15 MERRY XMas

merry

CHRISTmaS

GIfT GuIde Yang Mi : acting on her aMbition

christmas

Yang Mi Acting on her Ambition

楊冪一個女演員的野心名錶世代Watch NeWs

bulgAri, rolex, piAget

2016巴黎春夏時裝周

EliteGen.singtao.ca

Read Online: EliteGen.singtao.ca iOS App: “EliteGen” in App Store

2016 Paris

Spring-Summer FAShion Week CAN$4.99

EG013_cover_final.indd 2

25/11/2015 4:59:45

編輯部 editorial

編輯主任 Editors

胡君偉 Kelvin Wu 葉子青 Leslie Yip

加西版 Can West

張萬青 Katherine Cheung, 周建文 Bruce Chau

編審 Copy Editor

Ross Hopkins

助理編輯 Assistant Editor 參與 Contributors

吳皓沂 Crystal Ng Grace Chan, Lorne Drury,

Kenson Ho, Zoe Mak, Peonne Lung, Renée S. Suen,

Mel Tobias, Shuk Wa Tsang, Miranda Yiu

美術部 art

星島美術部

廣告及市場部 sales & marketing 營業總監 Director

出版 Publishing

黎家盛 Andrew Lai

Sing Tao Daily Limited

編輯部 Editorial Hotline editorial@singtao.ca / 604-321-1111 Address : 8508 Ash Street, Vancouver, BC Canada V6P 3M2 營業部 Advertising Hotline advertising@singtao.ca / 604-321-1111 發行部 Circulation Hotline circulation.van@singtao.ca / 604-321-5211

匠心獨運賽道精品平治全新 AMG GT.

平治汽車大溫地區 6 間陳列室星期日照常營業 ( 陳列室星期日營業時間各有不同，請直接查詢 ) 溫哥華 (D#6276)

溫東平治 (D#6279)

北溫哥華 (D#6277)

550 Terminal Avenue

3550 Lougheed Hwy

1375 Marine Drive

604-736-7411

604-639-3300

604-984-9351

列治文 (D#6278)

1-855-554-9194 I mbvancouver.ca

汽車城時代坊 ( 音樂噴泉旁 ) 5691 Parkwood Way 4151 Hazelbridge Way 604-278-7662 604-295-6089

素里 (D#11013) 15508-104th Ave. 604-581-7662

ContentS DEC

FaShion headline

2016巴黎春夏時裝周 2016 Paris sPring-summer Fashion Week

Cover Story

楊冪：一個女演員的野心 Yang Mi : acting on her aMbition

微調1mm

roLeX oYsTer PerPeTuaL DaY-DaTe The DiFFerence one miLLimeTre makes

FaShion newS

46 加州風情 Louis Vuitton a touch of caLifornia

watCh newS

64 從修復到製錶 parMigiani fLeurier restorer turned Maker

Jewelry

48 iconic craftsManship

Men’S Style

watCh Story

54 東京看錶看珠寶 buLgari the art of buLgari:30 Years of itaiLian Masterpieces

66 乾濕褸內的藝術 the coat with a siLkY Lining

runway

70 野獸都市 coach beast & the citY

watCh newS

60 崔始源談送禮哲學 piaget choi siwon's beYond a gift

ContentS DEC

elite Car

108

高性能省油王雙動能suV a Porsche caYenne ThaT is simPLY eLecTriFYing

elite liFe

102

愛上黃金汽泡! 法國香檳之都reims 見證葡萄成熟時

hi-teCh

116

懶人自拍

BuBBLe uP! From VineYarD To BoTTLe in reims, France

canon eos m 10 The LazYman’s seLFie machine

XMaS SpeCial

72 聖誕禮物巡禮 2015 X’Mas gift gude

reStaurant

92 樂‧活卡加利 LiVing weLL in caLgarY

Makeup

84 那動人時光 good oLd tiMes

taSte

96 多倫多最佳brunch top brunches in toronto

Beauty talk

88 掃出美顏 charLotte tiLburY brushing up

wine not

100 澳洲紅酒之最 penfoLds grange austraLia’s Most reVered tippLe

living

90 打造敞亮空間 Light and airY

JuSt For Fun

112 自由‧自遊‧歌劇遊 opera tours Made easY

部份內容由新傳媒集團有限公司提供 All prices are in CAD unless otherwise specified. 除特別標明外，所有價錢以加幣計算。

Dress Code text | 陳梓健

Celia Wong 著名形象設計師黃欐堯Celia，曾任陳慧琳、謝安琪、孫耀威、江若琳等藝人的形象設計，亦有參與唱片封套形象設計及演唱會形象指導。早年出書教人襯衫扮靚，近年主力負責個人形象和美容指導，還開設個人網誌celiawong.com，分享服裝潮流及扮靚心得。 Famous designer Celia Wong has been image designer for many celebrities, including Kelly Chan, Kay Tse, Eric Suen and Elanne Kang, and has also been a designer of many album covers and image director of numerous concerts. Wong has written books offering tips about clothing and beauty. In recent years, she has focused on coaching individual clients on image and beauty, and even started her own blog (celiawong.com) to share fashion trends and beauty tips.

CurvaCeouS Style

凸顯型格

舒淇

horizontal development

橫向發展

樂基兒

Setting the trend

潮流氣息

文詠珊

Shu Qi

Gaile Lok

Janice Man

舒淇一身全黑閃片上衣rock味甚濃，下身配襯一對 Sergio Rossi over knee黑色喱士通花長靴，型格十足，但這雙靴子難穿得好看，幸而舒淇夠瘦，穿起亦不致顯得大腿粗大。

毛毛外衣不是人人可穿，一不小心就好像樂基兒這樣，無限放大自己的身形，看她這身打扮又橫又粗壯，就算一身H&M x Balmain黃色上衣配窄身牛仔褲，也不夠件毛毛外衣搶鏡，而且妝容又出油，有點嚇人！

一身H&M x Balmain造型的JM潮味十足，黑色貼身短裙配藍色窩釘外套，有型又sharp，再配上金色大耳環及尖頭高跟鞋，時尚品味直線上升，為造型加了不少分數。

Wearing an all-black top covered in shimmering sequins, Shu Qi’s style is total rock. A pair of Sergio Rossi Over-the-Knee black lace boots add even more style. Unfortunately, not everyone can wear these boots well, but Shu is thin enough that her thighs do not look too big with the boots on.

Furry coats are not for everyone. If one is not careful, one could end up like Gaile Lok, making the body look larger. This look is broad and strong. Even the H&M x Balmain yellow top, matched with skinny jeans, are not enough to balance the furry coat. Also, the makeup looks alarmingly greasy.

JM is way ahead of the curve in her H&M x Balmain attire. The tight-fitting black miniskirt, matched with a blue rivet jacket, give a stylish and sharp look. Added to the trendiness are large gold hoop earrings and pointed-toe heels.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Dress Code foCuSing on the Bottom

焦點在下

奧莉菲亞懷特

Winner of the ShoW

氣場全勝

White iS the neW BlaCk

變白亦得

朗妮瑪娜

Olivia Wilde

Toni Garrn

Rooney Mara

可以很有型又可以很好玩的女星，奧莉菲亞就是其中一員，造型上有更多層次感。不是說這個look 上半身透視裝沒戲看，只係下身半截裙的print太搶眼，為造型大副加「fun」。

名模真是名模，走慣天橋的Toni衣著上不太花巧，好像這件白色短裙，簡單乾淨到detail都不多，但一樣carry到收放自如兼有搶鏡氣派，這就是專業吧！

「龍紋女」朗妮瑪娜早前常以黑色衣物做配襯，其實以她這麼漂亮的皮膚，穿這件白色裙一樣成，尤其是設計上加上少少ruffles顯心思，即使走簡約風也不會悶。

Olivia Wilde is one of those actresses that can be stylish and whimsical at the same time. Her look is nuanced and multi-layered. The look of this see-through top is eclipsed by the catchy print on the skirt, adding a great deal of fun to the look.

As a supermodel, Toni Garrn’s experience on the runway truly shows. Her clothing does not have to be too fancy to express her style. For instance, this white miniskirt is so clean and simple that it is devoid of much detail. Still, Garrn’s versatile and photogenic style shines through.

Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’s Rooney Mara previously dressed frequently in black. Actually, with her beautiful skin, wearing a white dress like this also works well. The design is simple, but not boring, especially with little details like the ruffles.

裙 Dress：Dolce & Gabbana

裙 Dress：Michael Kors

裙 Dress：Giambattista Valli

網評：奇怪之餘又真的很有火花。 Web buzz: Adding sparks to a slightly eccentric look.

網評：當模特兒的果然有所不同！ Web buzz: The supermodel shows her stuff as a pro!

網評：美女不用太多花巧。 Web buzz: A natural beauty does not need many frills..

(style.com)

(fabsugar.com)

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Cover Story

對於楊冪，這兩年印象最深刻的，必然是她在事業穩步上揚之際，

Despite her steadily rising star status

毅然下嫁劉愷威及隨即成為人母。坊間自不然會懷疑她會否放下演

in the movie industry, tying the

藝事業，又或減產。婚前主力演偶像劇，當母親後又會有什麼改

knot with Hawick Lau Hoi-wai and

變？

becoming a mother have been the most important things in life the past

《我是證人》讓不少影評人肯定了楊冪的成長，但楊冪的第一反應是

two years.

她有些「意外」。不過她並不掩飾對這部作品的野心。在電影裡，楊冪「自廢武功」，素著一張臉演一個盲人，並試著壓低了她特有的尖

After these life-changing events, one

嗓，和以往青春偶像劇中的形象背道而馳。

couldn’t help but wonder whether she might quit show biz, or slow down.

盲女角色是她向演員道路邁進中交出的實力答卷，即使還有諸多遺

Or, would this “idol drama” queen

憾，亦充分顯示了楊冪「我想成為一個實力演員」的宣言是認真的。

become something else as a mother?

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Yang Mi After seeing The Witness, movie critics were quick to affirm Yang’s growth as an actor. At first, she was surprised by this, but she wasn’t hiding her ambition. In a complete antithesis to her image as young idol in the past, Yang “handicapped” herself in the movie by wearing minimal makeup for her role as a blind girl. She also dulled her distinctive high-pitched voice. Her role as a blind girl is her way of displaying her acting qualifications. Whatever imperfections there might be, she amply proves she is serious about being a “solid actor.”

acting on her aMbition text | 蔣夢瑤張燕 photo | 邵欣

楊冪：一個女演員的野心 ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

acting on her aMbition

COVER STORY

轉型的糾結

The trickiness of transformation

為了找到盲人的感覺，楊冪專門請教盲人學校

In order to feel like the visually challenged, Yang sought advice from teachers

的老師，到黑暗空間體驗，還找來國內外有關盲人

of the sight impaired, felt around in dark spaces and watched movies portraying

的電影觀摩學習，光是電影《推拿》就看了三四遍，

the sightless. She watched Blind Massage three or four times as the movie

因為在這部片裡有各式各樣不同狀態的盲人。這也

features blind people in different forms.

是她第一次因為些許細節上的堅持，和導演追求的戲劇效果起了爭執：「我這個角色是後天致盲，學習

After the research, she had a firm idea of how to handle certain details, and

適應盲人生活也只有三年時間，所以在行動方面應

had her first disagreement with the director on how to achieve certain dramatic

該會有些細節上的區別……」

effects, saying: “My role is not born blind. She has been learning to live as a blind person for only three years. So she should move a little differently.”

長久以來，楊冪的表演連帶著她獨特的聲線都存在於觀眾的一片調侃聲中，或許是因為她是靠著

For a long time, Yang has been on the receiving end of harsh criticism from

一些所謂「狗血與粗糙」的偶像劇走紅，觀眾和業界

viewers, perhaps because of her acting, her unique voice, or the tedious and

就達成了某種「共識」，給楊冪扣上了人氣偶像但卻

badly made so-called “idol dramas” that put her on people’s radar. Many show-

不會演戲的帽子。

biz personnel and film buffs have branded her as a popular idol who can’t act.

長期以來苛刻的目光，給楊冪造成的影響不言

The harsh reviews understandably affected Yang. That’s why, when she

而喻。前段時間楊冪去了《我是證人》內部試映場，

heard the positive reviews at an internal screening of The Witness, she was

當聽到在座人士的一致好評和「有進步」的評價後，

confused.

第一反應竟然是懵了，繼而是糾結「會不會是大家都是熟人不想當面說不好？」、「他們都是我的粉絲吧？」。這種糾結的不自信來源於她對自我的要求：「其實有些細節的地方電影後期剪輯處理了，有些

“Was it because everybody knows everybody and so they didn’t want to say anything bad to my face, or perhaps because they are my fan?” she thought, the self-doubt coming from the high expectations she has for herself.

地方可以處理得更好。」而我們試圖讓楊冪自己打個分，她又嘻嘻哈哈地岔開了話題：「這個太主觀了，打不了分。」

We asked her to score herself, and she playfully brushed that aside, sayin “That’s too subjective. I can’t score myself.” Nevertheless, it’s obvious she’s resolute.

但她的態度十分明晰：「對於做好演員，我一直都有這種企圖心。可能經驗不夠豐富，或者能力

“As to being a good actor, that has been my intention all along. I may lack

還不足，但我能給自己決心去做一個好演員。之前

experience, or capabilities, but I have the determination to be a good actor.

也有過難堪的時候，也有過可能不是那麼積極的時

There were times when I felt really embarrassed, and when I was downcast. But

候，但是希望自己能夠正視這塊，能夠積極起來。」

I hope I can face that, and become more motivated.”

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

COVER STORY

acting on her aMbition

Yang Mi 22

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

進擊的團隊成為一個好演員，不僅僅是楊冪的初心，她身邊的團隊也

A supportive cast The team around Yang has also contributed to her evolution

在全力成全這一次的進擊之作，經紀人曾嘉很早就給團隊下了命

as an actor. Her manager, Zeng Jia, issued a directive early on

令，拍攝《我是證人》期間的檔期「絕不能動」，除了推掉的電影和

that the time slots for The Witness were sacrosanct, so the team

電視劇，宣傳總監西西也記得，當時恰好是楊冪產後復出，媒體

turned away many other movie and TV drama offers.

深度採訪的邀約相當多，面對媒體朋友的盛情，她硬著頭皮一一擋駕，給楊冪創造專心演出的「真空環境」。在她印象裡，整個拍攝期楊冪只為電影《何以笙簫默》的宣傳出過三次劇組。

Publicity director Xi Xi also recalled that, in order to give Yang the space to focus on acting, he had to turn away numerous media interview requests as when she resumed work after giving

曾嘉和楊冪的合作已超過十年，打算準備好了再考慮去和文藝片導演合作，或者再找一些更為複雜和挑戰性的角色。這兩

birth. During the filming of The Witness, Yang only diverted herself for three promotional shoots for My Sunshine.

年，曾嘉慢慢察覺，隨著長大和沉澱，有了自己的家庭和寶寶，楊冪已在蛻變成長，內心積累了更多更豐富的感受：「小冪在懷孕

Yang and manager Zeng have been together for more than

期間看了很多電影，我們也會一起討論，我感覺她內心有很多東

10 years. Zeng was committed to finding more complex and

西已經相對成熟，那種要湧出的情緒非常飽滿，所以我也一直在

challenging parts for Yang and approached directors of literary

想接一部什麼樣的電影能夠表達此時此刻她的狀態。」《我是證人》

films when Yang was ready.

出現得剛剛好。「儘管外界看她還是少女冪，但我們能感受到她對角色的鑽研和理解會更有深度。」選擇盲女的角色，是團隊和楊冪一拍即合的過程。

During Yang’s two-year hiatus from acting, Zeng could see the client maturing in many ways. She now had a husband and child, and was exuding more feelings and inner substance.

楊冪的親密愛人劉愷威也感受到了她的不同：「拍《我是證人》時我去探過一次班，就覺得她整個人情緒都很『沉』，很入戲。」

“’Mini’ watched a lot of movies when she was expecting. We would have discussions together and she gave me the feeling that

得知提前場的觀眾對楊冪的表現都頗為肯定，「劉叔叔」笑著

many things inside of her were coming of age. She was brimming

表示「與有榮焉」「作為老公，同為演員，知道她拍這部戲受了多 :

with emotions and they were ready to burst, so I wanted to get her

少苦，花了多少精力，很為她驕傲。」

a movie that expresses who she is at this moment.

沒正經的說話在長久以來於大家印象中，楊冪身上最大的標簽已變成一個

“The Witness came at the right time. Never mind that the world still sees her as little Mini. We can feel that she is studying and understanding a role a lot deeper.”

開心果（逗比少女、段子手），每次有她的宣傳活動，似乎總不會缺少話題。在娛樂至上、話題為王的時代，楊冪收獲眾多觀眾的喜愛，但一定程度上卻掣肘著大家對於楊冪「演員」身份的認識。楊冪收起了以往嘻嘻哈哈的形象，新片宣傳活動的發言史無前例地認真：「以後希望能好好地演戲，希望大家能看到我的進

The decision to take on the role of a blind girl was immediate and unanimous among the team. Yang’s significant other, whom she refers to as “Uncle Lau,” also noticed a change in her during filming.

步」。她略略地讓自己和過往愛說笑的少女形象有所區別：「這部戲不需要段子手，這部戲就是希望好好地告訴大家我的態度和誠意。」

“I visited her on location during the filming of The Witness’ I felt she was very introverted at the time,” Hawick said. “She was really into the role.”

「所以這次就連宣傳也不走段子手路線，改為給粉絲灌心靈雞湯了嗎？」周刊記者打趣道。

When he learned that Yang’s performance was applauded at the pre-screening, “Uncle Lau” was excited, saying: “As a

「嗯，我其實不太會灌雞湯吧。雖然她們長大了，我還年輕

husband, and a fellow actor, I know that she had her share of

啊。」楊冪快速地回應道。「哎，你看，好好說話怎麼就這麼難。」

hardship and put in a lot of energy during the filming. I’m really

工作人員反了白眼，身邊的楊冪早就嘻嘻哈哈地笑做一團。

proud of her.”

似乎你永遠不需要擔心那個愛開玩笑搞氣氛的楊冪會一去不返，雖然她會突然變得裝模作樣、一本正經地跟你扯些心靈雞湯，但她依舊反應靈巧，調侃毒舌不斷。但這並不代表她不夠真誠。她聰明地知道自己的階段和狀態，從不會強迫自己快速拔高成別人所希望的模樣。比如她只是想通過新片傳達她作為好演員的決心和態度，卻否認了所謂的轉

Getting serious Yang has long been labelled a happy-go-lucky person, court jester, humourist – take your pick. She gives people something to talk about every time she attends a publicity event. In an era when entertainment and juicy news rule, Yang is well-liked by a divergent group.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

COVER STORY

型和被誇大了的努力：「我平時就特別提不起勁

That goes to show there is no need to worry

兒來，基本上就是一個鬆的狀態。大家老是覺

that we won’t see the jocular side of Yang again.

得我給不足勁，你從來不會覺得我用力過猛。」

While she may suddenly take on a serious persona

就像她自始至終認為自己嗓音是最大的特徵，

and talk earnestly about chicken soup topics, she

它只需要配合角色進行調整，而無需像外界吐

hasn’t lost her sharp tongue and snappy retorts.

槽的那樣全盤更改。她仍舊按照自己的步調在忙碌著。

This doesn’t mean she is not genuine. She keenly knows what stage she is in and won’t force

所以接下來呢？「商業片也會接，偶像劇

herself into growing up faster to match others’

也會拍，但是什麼樣的題材，我都希望給大家

expectations. For example, she uses promotion

的一個態度是在做一個好演員，一個可以演戲

opportunities to express her determination to be a

的好演員。」說這話時的楊冪一臉的自得其樂卻

good actor, but denies any exaggerated notion of

又無比認真。「我在日常生活中還是經常會說話沒正經，段子手也

transformation or hard work.

不會一去不復返，我該做什麼就做什麼，認真工作的時候不開玩笑。」

“I normally can’t get worked up about anything, because basically I’m usually in a relaxed mode,” she said. “People often

But it’s a double-edged sword, for it can put up a barrier for audiences that want to think of her as a serious actor. So, Yang

think of me as not making enough effort. You would never think I’m over-stretching myself.”

parked her personal persona and got serious in the promotion of She thinks of her voice as her most unique feature, and

the movie.

believes all she needs to do is adjust it to fit the part — not “I want to get down to acting from now on, and hope everybody can see my progress. This movie doesn’t need a

overhaul it completely. She continues to work hard, but at her own pace.

jester. I want to use this movie to tell everyone my attitude and my So what’s next?

sincerity.” A reporter then asked: “Is that why you are giving fans, chicken soup rather than humour in the promotion.”

“I’ll continue to do commercial movies, or idol dramas. Whatever the material, I hope to give everyone my commitment to be a good actor — a good actor who can act,” she said in all

Her response: “Err. I am not very good at feeding chicken soup.

seriousness, with a hint of enjoying herself.

Though they are growing up, I’m still young.” Yang then offered as a rejoinder. “Sigh. You see, why is it so difficult to be serious?”

“I still talk nonsense all the time. The jester in me isn’t gone forever, but I’ll do what I

She then collapsed in a fit of giggles, as her team members rolled their eyes.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

should do. I won’t muck around when it’s time to knuckle down.”

acting on her aMbitio

CERAMIUM A.C.T. 全新豪華氣派堅如精鋼輕如鴻毛

Official Agent: Official Agent:

Official Agent:

Minoru Blvd., Richmond, BC V6X 4B1 163-5951 Minoru Richmond, BCBCV6X 163-5951163-5951 MinoruBlvd., Blvd., Richmond, V6X4B1 4B1 ( Between Marriott and Hilton Hotel) (( Between Marriott Hotel) Between Marriottand andHilton Hilton Hotel) T. 604.270.2221 M. 604.720.2595 T.T. 604.270.2221 M. 604.720.2595 604.270.2221 M. 604.720.2595 harry@damincci.com www.damincci.com harry@damincci.com www.damincci.com harry@damincci.com www.damincci.com

Fashion Headline

一眾模特兒穿上Chanel春夏新裝，浩浩蕩蕩搭乘Chanel Airlines出發。 A band of models wearing Chanel’s Spring-Summer fashions marches onboard Chanel Airlines.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Dior花了三周時間在羅浮宮打造出這座紫藍色的delphinium花山，美不勝收。 Dior spent three weeks building this gorgeous lavendercoloured delphinium hill.

2016巴黎春夏時裝周

2016 Paris spring-summer Fashion Week text | Michelle Chow photo | Michael K

作為時裝周的壓軸尾站，加上「時裝之都」的美譽，這雙重身分令巴黎時裝周變得「平凡有罪」，逼得各大設計師使出渾身解數，務求讓一眾遠赴而來的VIP及傳媒朋友盡興而歸。今季焦點落在A Wang為Balenciaga所創作的告別作，以及一直是巴黎時裝周焦點所在的Chanel身上，究竟要以設計為主導還是以銷售量為終極目標。 True to its reputation as the world’s fashion capital, Paris simply doesn’t allow commonplace designs during Fashion Week. Every designer pulls out all the stops to ensure VIPs and media, some of whom have travelled considerable distances, get their money’s worth. The highlights this year might be Alexander Wang’s creative farewell show for Balenciaga, as

Senior Reporter, Michelle Chow

well as the usual Paris Fashion Week spotlight on Chanel. The question is whether design is the main driving force, or is it sales figures?

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Fashion Headline

See Me Through 來到春夏，輕薄的透視物料成為主角，Dior和Balenciaga選用白或粉色的透視物料注入純真氣息、Lanvin及Elie Saab 綴以喱士來增加女人味，而Shiatzy Chen 則印上花卉圖案，讓大家感受到性感以外，更多的浪漫氣息。 Lightweight see-through material stars this coming Spring-Summer season. Dior and Balenciaga have chosen white or pink seeJohn Galliano

Chanel

Chloé

Saint Laurent

through fabric to provide a breath of innocence, while Lanvin and Elie Saab have added lace trim

Denim is Back 誰說牛仔不能登大雅之堂？今季牛仔布料甚受歡迎，先被Chanel和Chloé用來做maxi裙褲，Saint Laurent則以上世紀九十年代壞女孩

to enhance the femininity of the material. Shiatzy Lanvin Chen utilizes printed floral patterns for a sexy feel and romantic flair.

造型上場，Alexander McQueen綴以釘花刺繡令牛仔服變得奢華，一改牛仔的casual形象。 Who says denim cannot be seen in fancy places? This season, denim is very popular, with Chanel and Chloé both using it to make maxiskirts. Saint Laurent has utilized denim to create a naughty-girl look, while Alexander McQueen has added appliqué and embroidery to make denim look more luxurious and less casual. Alexander McQueen

春夏潮流四大預告

Balenciaga

Elie Saab

Shiatzy Chen

Dior

The four major trends of the Spring-Summer season

The Smart Trousers 觀乎長褲造型在Céline、 L o u i s V u i t t o n 、 H e r mès 、 Loewe及Stella McCartney等天橋上出現的密集程度，勢必成為來年春夏的必備單品，無論是襯以biker jacket、露肩上衣，抑或是西裝外套，同樣簡約有型。 Judging from the frequency Loewe

Hermes

of long trousers showing up on the catwalks of Celine, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Loewe and Stella

season. Whether

象。 Fashion styles are cyclical. The geometric patterns

matched with

that dominated the ‘50s and ‘60s are reappearing on the

biker jackets, off-the-

catwalk. To wit: Miu Miu and Kenzo’s retro goddess look,

shoulder shirts or suit

Valentino’s geometric-shape goddess maxi-dress, Vivienne

blazers, the trousers

Westwood’s overstated and non-traditional two-piece set

sport a simple, yet

with diamond shapes and Acne’s abstract-shaped jacket.

stylish, look. •

DEC

•

2015

時裝潮流循環不斷，在上世紀五六十年代紅

裝，以及Acne的抽象圖形大衣，均叫人留下深刻印

Spring-Summer

ELITEGEN

Geometric Game

裙、Vivienne Westwood誇張又不落俗套的菱格套

haves this coming

Kenzo

Kenzo的復古女性造型、Valentino的幾何女神長

certain to be must-

Stella McCartney

Valentino

極一時的幾何圖案，再次回歸天橋，如Miu Miu和

McCartney, they are

Louis Vuitton

Acne

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label

Céline

Miu Miu

Fashion Headline

繼畫廊、超級市場、示威區以及巴黎小餐館後，不少人都對Chanel 16春夏系列的場景設定充滿好奇，不驚人不罷休的老佛爺這趟帶領大家乘搭香奈兒航空，大家拿着如機票般的invitation來到被布置成仿如機場客運大樓的巴黎大皇宮，場內設置了一個個的 check-in counter。有別於一般catwalk騷。模特兒四方八面拖着行李箱魚貫步出，展示身上最新設計，衣服、手袋、眼鏡、飾物、鞋履，花多眼亂叫人目不暇給，細心留意設計當中不乏機場跑道或航班告示板圖案，與品牌signature的山茶花、套裝、鏈帶細節完美融合，能夠如此成功為高級時裝注入玩味，自然再一次為香奈兒贏得滿場歡呼聲。

Chanel

夢想飛行

Dream Flight

Chanel’s set design at Fashion Week is always highly anticipated. This

time, the usually dramatic grand dame of fashion took everyone aboard Chanel Airlines. Invitations resemble airline tickets and the Grand Palais is decorated to look like an airport terminal, complete with check-in counters. Unlike traditional catwalk shows, the models file into the hall from multiple directions, dragging suitcases and showing off the newest designs — clothing, handbags, shoes, glasses and accessories. Upon close inspection of the designs, one notices many runway and flight displayboard patterns, as well as the brand’s signature camellia, suits and chain belts. The show once again successfully added whimsy to high fashion, and once again earned cheers from around the hall.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Fashion Headline

Dior

浪漫花園

Romantic Garden

「Pure and calm」，是Raf Simons為Dior 16春夏訂

列貫徹Raf Simons的作風，寧謐優雅，他將不同元素

立的主題，甫步入會場，在歐陸式建築群中的一大片

加以配搭，如針織配以透視物料，或絲質連身裙綴以

紫藍色花海已叫人移不開眼球，令人回想起他為Dior設

cutout細節，配合柔和的粉色調，帶出「pure and calm」

計的首個Haute Couture系列，也是以一大片花天花海

主題，而模特兒頸上的寶石choker綴上數字「1947」，

為背景。今趟，則如他所言，成功將Dior這個品牌的經

就是Dior首個時裝系列誕生的年份，帶領大家溫故知

典設計，帶領到一個更modern的時裝定位上，整個系

新，所謂「春光似海，盛世如花」，大概就是這個意思。

“Pure and Calm” is the theme Raf Simons came up with for Dior’s SpringSummer season. As soon as one steps into the hall, one is immediately consumed by a large sea of lavender-coloured flowers. The scene reminds one of the first Haute Couture collection Simons designed for Dior, which also had a large floral background. Simons has successfully brought the classic Dior design inside a more modern space in fashion. The entire collection exudes Simons’ style. He skilfully matches knitwear with see-through material, adds cut-out details to silk dresses and combines delicate pastel colours -- all to bring out the “pure and calm” theme. The models wear precious stone chokers with the number “1947.” That’s the year Dior introduced its first collection, bringing history into contemporary times and adding the splendour of a floral scene.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Valentino

異國情調

Exotic Sentiments

在這年代，當「女神」一詞被過分濫用，彷彿已不再適合用來

Valentino服裝輪廓上，飾上了羽毛、人手釘珠、傳統刺繡等細

形容這氣質出眾的意國品牌。在Maria Grazia Chiuri及Pierpaolo

節，或以密集的金色圓珠亮片配以鏤空皮革，滲出tribal民族味

Piccioli這對設計孖寶上場後，Valentino的成績單一季比一季亮

道。另外，設計師亦利用不同物料打造出大量的幾何圖形，或配

眼，曾誓言要守着品牌DNA的二人，繼續將Valentino的獨特美

以娃娃剪裁，或配以皺褶長裙，襯以民族風頸飾及羽毛點綴，彰

學昇華。在一片非洲鼓聲下，模特兒雍容登場，在大家熟悉的

顯品牌的非凡工藝同時，亦流露出神秘脫俗的出塵氣質。

These days, the word “goddess” is overused, and it seems inappropriate to use it to describe this Italian brand known for its out-of-this world aura. Since the designer pair of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli joined Valentino, its report card looks better and better each year. They are committed to preserving the brand’s DNA, while continuously improving upon Valentino’s unique aesthetic sense. Amidst the sound of African drums, the models enter elegantly. Chiuri and Piccioli have added feathers, hand-sewn sequins and traditional embroidery. Other adornments include gold beads to densely decorate leathers and provide a tribal flavour. In addition, the designers have used different materials to create geometrical shapes to match with babydoll cats. Pleated maxi-skirts, ethnic necklaces and feather trims all showcase the brand’s extraordinary craftsmanship and, at the same time, give off a mysterious, out-of-this-world charm.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Fashion Headline

作為Alexander Wang在Balenciaga三年任期內的最後系列，時裝騷選址在一座莊嚴神聖的教堂內舉行，伴隨着聖詩音樂下，電話鈴聲響起，然後教堂窗外打造出太陽升起的日光效果，柔和音樂隨即換上節奏感強烈的hip hop music，模特兒一身全白造型登場，喱士、荷葉邊細節，配合真絲或透視物料，神聖又不可侵犯，整個系列一氣呵成地以喱士拖鞋作點綴，仿如進階版的高級lingerie造型，帶來煥然一新的感覺。有人說這個系列很不Balenciaga，我卻認為A Wang以這樣的一個純白系列作為告別式，為雙方短暫的賓主關係譜出一首優雅圓舞曲，也為下位繼任者 Demna Gvasalia留白，更為動人。

Balenciaga

純白告別式

Pure White Farewell

As Alexander Wang’s farewell collection brings an end to his three-year term at

Balenciaga, the show has chosen a solemn and holy chapel as its venue. With the sound of hymns playing, a telephone suddenly rings, and then outside the chapel window is the visual effect of a sunrise. The soft music quickly switches to rhythmic hip hop, and the models enter in pure white. Adorned with lace, lotus leaf edges, and combined with silk and see-through fabric, the look is sacred and intimidating. The entire collection utilizes a lace slipper as its highlight throughout. Some may criticize this collection as “not very Balenciaga,” but Wang’s decision to opt for this pure white series as his farewell is an elegant waltz to end his stay at the designer house. It also creates a clean white slate for his successor, Demna Gvasalia.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Fashion Headline

Céline將丹麥藝術家FOS拿手的空間藝術作品，移師到其2016春夏系列的時裝騷上，利用亮麗的藍、橙、黃等顏色布幕，構成了一個色彩鮮艷又充滿藝術感的時裝展場地。創意總監Phoebe Philo這次從品牌一貫的極簡美學中，打造出不少新的服飾輪廓，如宮廷式泡泡袖、呈水滴形的圓弧線領口、密集鮮明的百褶細節、突顯腰線的軍裝大衣等，並為簡約線條的上衣或背心裙裝飾了精緻的喱士，配合中性短靴或平底 loafers，為硬朗形象注入更多的女性魅力。

Céline

藝術輪廓

Artistic Outline

Céline takes the Danish artist FOS’s signature spatial art creations and brings them to its 2016 Spring-Summer collection. Utilizing bright blue, orange and yellow backdrops, Céline creates a brightly coloured and visually artistic venue for its show. Moving away from the brand’s tradition of ultra-simple aesthetics, creative director Phoebe Philo has created many new fashion outlines with such things as regal puffy sleeves, teardrop-shaped low-cut necklines, small-pleated skirts and military jackets that highlight the waistline. She has also given jackets and jumper dresses delicate lace trims and matched them with gender-neutral boots or flat loafers to add some femininity to the predominantly masculine look.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Fashion Headline

Louis Vuitton 所謂新人事，新作風，Nicolas Ghesquiere

探索未來

Exploration of the Future

索未來。

上場後，明顯致力要為Louis Vuitton這經典老牌注入新意念，充滿未來元素的這一季，的確叫人

大量的網裝透視物料，配以不對稱的cutout剪

眼前一亮。打頭陣找來只有18歲的澳洲籍模特兒

裁和充滿未來感的機械印花，帶來嶄新的視覺效

Fernanda Ly，其標誌性的一頭粉紅色長髮，襯以

果，而品牌經典的monogram印花皮革大衣則穿插

粉紅色biker和額前裝飾，仿如從未來世界穿越而

其中，彷彿在提醒你品牌這些傳統基因，將伴隨着

來的女戰士，也預告了2016春夏系列的主題- 探

新設計踏上品牌通往未來的新旅程。

With a new boss comes a new style. Since the arrival two years ago of designer Nicolas Ghesquiere, Louis Vuitton has clearly been trying to add new concepts to this classic brand. This season is full of refreshing futuristic elements – hence the theme for its Spring-Summer collection, Exploring the Future. To lead off the show, 18-year-old Australian model Fernanda Ly sports her signature long pink hair and adds a pink biker jacket, as well as bold decorations on her forehead, to produce the look of a futuristic female warrior. Large quantities of see-through material, combined with uneven cutouts and futuristic techno prints, produces a fresh visual effect. The brand’s classic monogram-print leather jacket is featured in the middle of the show, as if to remind the audience that the traditional Vuitton DNA has been augmented with new designs on this journey to the future.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

saint Laurent

野性搖滾

Wild Rock

由Hedi Slimane主理的Saint Laurent今季繼續他的壞女孩系

續大走上世紀九十年代搖滾路線，oversize牛仔褸襯以over hip的

列，以「all about skin」為主題，整個系列以不同種類的animal skin

迷你長度吊帶裙，叫人隱約看到Kate Moss的影子。而finale的一

貫穿，如豹紋、老虎紋、鴕鳥毛等，以及花了很長時間以人手刺

系列晚裝，則以輕薄質料突出女性曲線，輔以奢華的閃片刺繡和

繡所刺出的蟒蛇圖紋，為糜爛造型注入luxury元素。另外，品牌繼

皇冠頭飾，彷彿想將我們帶回九十年代的光輝歲月。

Under the leadership of Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent continues its bad-girl series with the theme “All About Skin.” The entire collection utilizes different animal themes, such as leopard prints, tiger stripes, ostrich feathers and a python pattern that took considerable time to hand-embroider and give the tattered look a bit of luxury. In addition, the brand continues with its ‘90s rock ‘n’ roll trend, matching an oversized denim jacket with a hip spaghetti-strap mini-dress reminiscent of Kate Moss. At the other end of the spectrum, the show’s finale features a series of evening gowns made with a lightweight fabric to highlight the feminine curves. Adorned with luxurious sequins and embroidery, as well as a tiara, this look brings us back to the glory days of the ‘90s.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Fashion Headline

以鋪天蓋地式的金銀色metallic物料布置會場，還以為Miuccia Prada會帶來一個充滿金屬感的春夏系列，但卻不然，一向鍾情於復古造型的她，在金碧輝煌的背景襯托下，繼續使出拿手好戲，以一系列 oversize幾何圖案大衣打頭陣，襯以深色唇妝和孖辮造型，帶有一點nerd的味道。在她擅長的復古架構中，注入了不同的元素配搭，像是幾何圖案撞幾何圖案、透視雪紡配厚重的毛毛披肩、夢幻紗裙襯以老實的格仔恤衫，打造出感覺像是錯配的層次感造型，完美將復古和標奇立異的創意融為一體。

Miu Miu

復古娃娃

Vintage Baby

With the venue covered in gold and silver metallic fabric, one would be

justified in expecting Miuccia Prada to bring a metallic look to her SpringSummer collection. Such is not the case. Prada, who is always fond of the vintage look, uses the gold and silver magnificence as a backdrop to skilfully create another fantastic show. The show opens with a series of oversized jackets with geometric patterns. Combined with dark lipstick and braids, this look is somewhat nerdy. To Prada’s signature vintage, she adds in different elements of surprise -- geometric shapes that clash with each other, coupling a see-through chiffon with a heavy furry shawl, matching a dream-like lace skirt with a down-to-earth plaid shirt. In these combinations, she creates textures and layers through mismatch, and perfectly combines vintage with avant-garde.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Fashion Headline

HermÈs

經典輪廓

Classic Outline

說到愛馬仕，相信大家首先想起的必然是其招牌手袋及其絲巾配飾，Hermès主

帥Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski這趟就致力喚起大家對其成衣系列的熱情。系列以品牌標誌性的「H」線條為基本輪廓，運用黑白、橙紅及駝色為主色調，打造出一系列皮革 jumpsuit、連身裙，或是背心套裝造型，設計師利用不同的線條圖案，勾勒出立體細節，並運用腰帶來突顯腰線，塑造出富女性美的簡約輪廓，襯以舒適的輕便鞋履和具質感的重點飾物，散發出簡約細膩的優雅氣質。

When it comes to Hermès, your first thought might be of its signature handbags and scarves. This time, creative director Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski has elicited enthusiasm for the brand’s clothing series. This collection uses the signature “H” line, with black, white, orange-red and camel as the main colours. Utilizing these basic elements comes a collection of leather jumpsuits, dresses and sleeveless pantsuits. The designer uses different lined patterns to create three-dimensional looks, as well as belts to highlight the waistline. The result is a simple outline that emphasizes femininity. Combined with comfortable light shoes and textured accessories, the collection is simple, delicate and elegant.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Fashion Headline

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Harmony and Disharmony 和諧不和諧

Vivienne Westwood’s Gold Label collection debuts in Paris with Vivienne Westwood於巴黎舉行的Gold Label系列發布會以威尼斯為主題，延續六月時男裝騷的主題，同時繼續鼓吹「減少消費、注重可持續性」的時裝理念。如利用舊花布縫製的套裝、富玩味的patchwork網紗頭飾、衣不稱身的西裝大衣，一貫的富戲劇性，既帶有上世紀八九十年代的摩登主義，又滲出中世紀的復古情懷，以一眾不和諧的元素突顯現今社會的衝擊現象，叫人拍掌叫好同時值得反思。

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

“Venice” as its theme, a carryover from its June men’s fashion show. At the same time, the brand is continuing its fashion concept of “Affordability and Sustainability.” For instance, it utilizes floral fabric to make a pantsuit, and an oversized suit jacket also adds to the dramatic look. The collection combines the modernism of the ‘80s and ‘90s with the retro feel of the mid-1900s. Using a combination of disharmonious elements, the brand highlights the conflicts that exist in society today, eliciting both applause and retrospection.

Fashion News

加州風情

Louis VuittoN A Touch of cAliforniA

text | CircleKaitlin

Twist MM (palm print)

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

$4,700

Twist MM (aquatic print) $4,700

GO – 14 PM (black)

$5,100

Twist MM (red)

$4,250

加州Palm Springs，一個讓人放輕鬆的悠閒寫意地，Louis Vuitton的早春系列就是以這個地方作靈感，除了服裝的布料、圖案及輪廓都加入加州風情外，皮具系列也創新地加入椰樹及泳池圖案，把為人熟識的Petite Malle clutch及 Alma手袋冠上極具大自然味道的感覺，保持既往的高貴美態的同時，更增添寫意的resort閒情，不難成為新一季的day and night手袋。

Taking inspiration from Palm Springs, the dream destination for ultimate relaxation in California, Louis Vuitton’s Spring collection is imbued with the California spirit, reflected in the materials, the prints and the silhouettes.The leather goods also feature creative motifs of palm trees and swimming pools, adding a touch of nature and a resort feel to the beloved Petite Malle clutch and Alma handbag without diminishing their sophisticated and aesthetic essence. It can easily become the day and night handbag for the coming season.

售賣點 Where to Buy

Louis Vuitton Toronto 150 Bloor Street West 416.968.3993

Vancouver The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver 730 Burrard Street 604.696.9404

行李箱乃品牌的精髓，徹底融入早春系列的加州風情。 Trunks, the brand’s signature products, express in full the California spirit of the Spring collection.

Petite Malle (palm print)

City Steamer PM (studded) $6,450

City Steamer PM (green/black) $3,950

$6,450

Alma PM (SoCal motif)

$3,100

Aquatic print box bag

Alma PM (black)

ELITEGEN

$TBD

$6,250

•

DEC

•

2015

Jewelry

IconIc Craftsmanship

高級珠寶品牌的價值除了質料保證優質之外，背後的工匠團隊才是最珍貴的核心，全靠他們的超凡手藝將品牌基因注入設計之中，像 Piaget及Dior高級珠寶系列，都盡展自家傳承工藝。

Quality assurances from a luxury jewelry brand are important and it’s the craftsmen working behind the scenes who allow these companies to offer such guarantees. By utilizing their extraordinary craftsmanship, they turn designs into luxury jewelry for designer brands like Piaget and Dior.

Piaget Mediterranean Garden 18K玫瑰金指環 18K pink gold ring $121,500 中央鑲嵌1顆約重3.82卡粉紅色藍寶石，周圍密鑲 158顆共重約4.98卡圓形美鑽。 A 3.82-carat pink sapphire in the centre is paved with 158 round diamonds totalling 4.98 carats. 18K玫瑰金頸鏈 18K pink gold necklace $650,000 鑲嵌463顆共重約13.55卡圓形美鑽、2顆共重約 1.11卡中央鑽石、56顆共重約79.44卡粉紅色藍寶石及73顆共重約661.8卡淡水珍珠。 This necklace is paved with 463 round diamonds totalling 13.55 carats, two 1.11-carat diamonds in the centre, 56 sapphires totalling 79.44 carats and 73 freshwater pearls totalling 661.8 carats. 獨一無二18K白金指環 One of a kind 18K white gold ring $173,300 中央1顆約重25.09卡枕形切割紅寶石，周圍密鑲 345顆共重約3.56卡圓形美鑽。 With a 25.09-carat cushion-cut ruby in the centre, this ring is paved with 345 round diamonds totalling 3.56 carats. on model: Elie Saab deep-V jumpsuit (所有價錢均為約價，僅供參考)

(All prices estimated)

text& styling | Chappie photo | Mano Wong model | Nana E（Model Genesis） make up & hair | Angel Wong

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

18K白金頸鏈 18k white gold necklace $1,155,500 密鑲331顆共重約18.19卡圓形美鑽，主要鑲嵌 1顆約重1.5卡圓形切割鑽石，1顆約重 2.06卡梨形切割鑽石及1顆約重4.02卡梨形切割鑽石。 Paved with 331 round diamonds totalling 18.19 carats, this necklace is set with one 1.5-carat round-cut diamond, one 2.06-carat pear-cut diamond and one 4.02-carat pearcut diamond.

Piaget豪門玫瑰 18K白金指環 18K white gold ring $36,200 密鑲101顆共重約0.85卡圓形美鑽，主要鑲嵌1顆約重2.59卡枕形切割粉紅色尖晶石、1顆約重0.76卡橢圓形切割紫色尖晶石、1顆約重0.85 卡枕形切割紫色尖晶石、1顆約重 0.77卡枕形切割海藍寶石、1顆約重 1.13卡橢圓形切割海藍寶石。 Paved with 101 round diamonds totalling 0.85 carats, this ring is set with one 2.59-carat cushioncut pink spinel, one 0.76-carat oval-cut purple spinel, one 0.85-carat cushion-cut purple spinel, one 0.77-carat cushion-cut aquamarine gemstone and one oval-cut 1.13-carat aquamarine gemstone.

名為Piaget Mediterranean Garden高級珠寶系列的款式，圍繞着品牌獨家培植的玫瑰Piaget Rose，透過珠寶展現曾風靡二十世紀六七十年代的精湛珠寶工藝 — 馬眼形切割鑽石技巧，此外配合招牌高貴金屬雕刻和頂級寶石細鑲技巧，鑽光進一步盡顯女性的嬌柔魅力。

Noble Rose The Mediterranean Garden High Jewelry collection has grown out of the brand’s exclusive Piaget Rose, using exquisite crafting skills from the 20th century that have been refined since the ‘60s and ‘70s. Marquise-cut precious gemstones, set on gold decorations, radiate feminine charm.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Jewelry

Dior金雕裙襬 Dior高級珠寶藝術總監Victoire de Castellane將高級訂製服裝之中的建築元素融入珠寶設計之中，今年Archi Dior高級珠寶系列增加新成員，如Bar en Corolle戒指是1947年Dior Bar套裝的延伸，或Cocotte頸鏈、手鏈及戒指，其靈感來自1948年春夏系列，取其背後的層層疊疊，堆疊出不對稱的珠寶概念等等，繼續述說時裝化成珠寶的故事。

Dior Golden Dress Victoire de Castellane, Dior’s creative director for fine jewelry, uses elements for high-fashion dressmaking for her designs. This year’s Archi Dior fine-jewelry collection: a Bar en Corolle ring, which is an extension from 1947 Dior Bar suit; Cocotte necklace, bracelet and ring are inspired by the 1948 SS collection. Using asymmetrical layers in jewelry design, she has turned fashion designs into fine jewelry.

Dior Joaillerie Archi Dior (Left to Right) Diorama Precieuse 18K黃金鑲紫晶和祖母綠戒指 Diorama Precieuse 18K yellow gold ring set with amethyst and emerald $13,000 Bar En Corolle 18K 玫瑰金鑲鑽石粗戒指（粗） Bar En Corolle 18K pink gold with diamond ring (thick) $21,250 Cocotte 18K 玫瑰金鑲鑽石戒指 Cocotte 18K pink gold with diamond ring $11,000 on model: Max Mara white tube dress

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Jewelry

Ailee 18K 白金鑲鑽石手鐲 Ailee 18K white gold diamond bangle $TBD 密鑲820顆共重約19.55卡圓形美鑽。 Paved with 820 round diamonds totalling 19.55 carats

Bar En Corolle 18K 白金鑲鑽石粗戒指 Bar En Corolle 18K white gold diamond thick ring $TDB 密鑲250顆共重約4.9卡圓形美鑽。 Paved with 250 round diamonds totaling 4.9 carats.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

五年來，我們不斷努力著，義無反顧地追尋著一個美麗的夢想。致力於為異國他鄉的姐妹們創造一間真正的

五星級健康美容SPA會館。我們嚴選國際最先進、最安全的醫學級美容儀器。我們使用最高效、最珍貴的保養產品。我們提供最貼心、最誠摯的服務；最潔淨、最舒適的環境。我們堅持無強制推銷，如此，我們雙方都能真正享有零壓力的放鬆、保養空間。

歡迎您！

604-278-0772 #130-8280 Lansdowne Road Richmond B.C. V6X 0B2 Canada

營業時間星期一至六：9am-7:30pm 星期日：10am-6pm

Watch Story

十月初跟隨Bulgari到東京看他們的新錶發布會和珠寶腕錶藝術展，短短一日享受了人間的絕色美藝。 Bulgari的旗艦系列Bulgari Bulgari 今年慶祝誕生40周年，為此他們選址日本著名的東京國立博物館辦了一場意大利珠寶藝術130年展覽會，出動大約250件作品，一次過回顧他們百多年以來的創作成就。

東京看錶看珠寶

Bulgari

The ArT of BulgAri: 30 YeArs of iTAiliAn MAsTer text ｜ Connie Chan photo | 金成

After just one October day in Tokyo, we’ve seen the best there is to see in the world of luxury watches and jewelry. It’s the 40th anniversary of Bulgari Bulgari, the brand’s flagship collection. To mark the occasion, the renowned Tokyo National Museum was selected as the venue for staging The Art of Bulgari: 130 Years of Italian Masterpieces. The exhibition displays a dazzling collection of 250 creations spanning Bulgari’s century-plus history.

伊莉莎白泰萊1964年嫁給第五任丈夫Richard Burton時所穿的黃色雪紗裙，與其珠寶珍藏同場展出。 Elizabeth Taylor’s treasured gems are shown, along with the yellow chiffon dress she wore when she married Richard Burton in 1964. 54

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

著名藝術家Andy Warhol曾說過，走進 Bulgari精品店就如參觀一場出色的當代藝術展。今次我們參觀了這場珠寶藝術展覽，也見證了百多年來藝術風格的演變，仿如一場時光之旅。展覽會由品牌創辦人Sotirio Bulgari創造的一系列銀製品為起點，以銀匠出身的Sotirio，其作品蘊含鄂圖曼與拜占庭時期的風格，到上世紀二十至四十年代Art Deco時期，創作開始多樣化，用鉑金混合鑽石製作珠寶，五六十年代起更在色彩方面創新，大膽選用非一般顏色的珍貴或半珍貴寶石，造出繽紛奪目的效果，這種獨特風格一直到今天仍然是Bulgari珠寶的特色之一。整個展覽會可以說是一場美藝與色彩的盛宴，有漂亮豔麗的珠寶，同場還加映難得一見的婚紗和戲服。眾所周知，他們的珠寶擁有大批女明星粉絲，四十年代美國影星Tyrone Power跟Linda Christian在羅馬結婚，以至超級粉絲伊莉莎白泰萊，在人生重要的一刻，都是戴Bulgari珠寶。沒有甚麼好得過以她們當年的婚紗伴隨昔日的珠寶珍藏同場亮相。

Andy Warhol once said, “i always visit Bulgari, because it is the most important museum of contemporary art.” our visit to the exhibition is like travelling back in time, witnessing the evolution of artistic styles over more than 100 years. The journey begins with a collection of silver pieces by the brand’s founder, sotirio Bulgari. A silversmith by trade, his works reflect the influence of ottoman and Byzantine styles. Moving on to the Art Deco period of the 1920s to 1940s, platinum and diamonds loom large, in a great diversity of designs. The colours became more vibrant into the ‘50s and ‘60s, and precious and semi-precious stones in bold colours are used generously to create the bedazzling creations synonymous with Bulgari 六十年代製作重超過80克拉的祖母綠鑽石項鏈，是 Richard Burton送給她的結婚禮物之一，鏈墜原本是一副胸針，即她結婚當天唯一選戴的首飾。 The emerald and diamond necklace, created in the 1960s with an 80-carat emerald, is a wedding gift from Richard Burton. The pendant was originally a brooch, the only piece of jewelry she wore on her wedding day.

today. The exhibition is a feast of artistry and colours, with a sideshow of wedding dresses and movie costumes, underscoring the wellknown fact that the brand has many fans among show-biz celebrities. We still recall that Bulgari featured large in the rome wedding of u.s. actors Tyrone Power and linda Christian in 1949, as well as the 1964 nuptials of elizabeth Taylor and richard Burton. What a treat to see their wedding jewels displayed with their wedding dresses. ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Watch Story

鉑金鑲鑽石及藍寶石長項鍊，鑲有一顆65克拉圓錐形蛋面切割藍寶石的鍊墜可拆下來做胸針，是 Richard Burton送給伊莉莎白泰萊40歲生日禮物。 Platinum diamond and sapphire sautoir, with a detachable pendant set with a 65-carat cabochon sapphire, was Taylor’s 40th birthday gift from Burton.

六七十年代是美術設計百花齊放的時期，Bulgari亦於1971年以黃金、紫水晶及祖母綠造了一條佛陀坐蓮的長項鏈。

1955年製成的鉑金鑲鑽石及紅寶石項鍊，鏈墜可當作胸針，其瀑布造型是五十年代常見的高級珠寶設計。

At a time when art flourished, in the 1960s and ‘70s, Bulgari created this Buddha sautoir in gold, amethysts and emeralds.

The platinum diamond and ruby necklace, with a detachable pendant, features a cascading design that was in vogue for high jewelry in the 1950s.

由黃金、祖母綠、紫水晶、綠松石及鑽石組合而成Bib項鏈，製於1965年，見證 Bulgari在六十年代起運用不同顏色寶石開創珠寶設計的新視野。 The 1965 bib necklace, with yellow gold, emeralds, amethysts, turquoise and diamonds, marks Bulgari’s bold move into using colourful stones for exquisite jewelry .

Bulgari是第一個將蛇變成腕錶的品牌。這枚由黃金紅寶石及翡翠造成的蛇形手鐲腕錶甚具東方色彩，是1968年的作品。 Bulgari pioneers serpentine bracelet watches. This design from 1968, in yellow gold, rubies and emeralds, stands out with an oriental touch. 56

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Watch Story

fabrizio Buonamassa stigliani Director of Bulgari Watches Design Center Fabrizio畢業於羅馬工業設計學院，深受意大利藝術文化薰

fabrizio Buonamassa stigliani senior Director, Bulgari Watches Design Center stigliani attended the institute of industrial Arts in rome and joined

陶。畢業後加入Fiat Style Centre工作。三年後，喜歡新挑戰又鍾

the fiat style Centre upon graduation. Three years later, looking for

情腕錶的他，將自己的腕錶設計圖送到羅馬的Bulgari設計中心，

new challenges, the watch-lover sent his wristwatch design drawings

獲CEO Paolo Bulgari賞識，邀請他加入設計隊伍。2007年當上

to Bulgari Watches Design Center in rome. Ceo Paolo Bulgari

Bulgari腕錶設計中心主管。

immediately saw his potential and invited him to join the design team. in 2007, he became the center’s senior director.

女裝錶難度高

Women’s watches present real challenges

除了珠寶展，Bulgari亦在東京銀座的旗艦店裡舉辦了新錶發布會。Bulgari Bulgari今年慶祝誕生40周年，幾款限量版腕錶

Bulgari also held a product launch at its flagship store in ginza. As

當然是座上客，而在運動錶Diaogono、八角形錶Octo及女裝錶

Bulgari Bulgari marks its 40th anniversary, the commemorative limited

Lucea之外，他們亦乘勢推出了一款全新女裝錶Diva。它其實是

editions are presented as a matter of course. in addition to the sporty

由珠寶錶Diva演變而成。這些來自不同系列的新錶，每一款都各

Diagono, the octagonal octo and the feminine lucea, the brand also

有特色，是他們自2000年收購Daniel Roth及Gerald Genta兩個

unveiled the new Diva.

品牌後，逐步重整腕錶軍容的成果。今天Gerald Genta及Daniel Roth系列在名義上已消失，但外形及精粹依然不滅。

each has its own unique features, and represents the triumph in regrouping the brand’s watchmaking capabilities after Bulgari’s

「不少人仍然覺得Bulgari、Daniel Roth和Gerald Genta是三

acquisition of Daniel roth and gerald genta in 2000. Those brands,

種很不同的設計，但對我們來說，尤其從設計角度出發，三者的

athough no longer around in name, live on in the shapes and essence

外形其實都差不多。今年我們又替Daniel Roth外形重新fine tune

of the new collections.

過，錶耳設計不一樣，錶圈略為纖幼，錶盤編排和細節更加接近Bulgari的風格。你看看Octo Biretrograde，然後再欣賞一下

“A lot of people think that Bulgari, Daniel roth and gerald genta

Bulgari Papillon，就會發現它們的面貌都是同出一轍。」品牌的

represent three different design styles,” says fabrizio Buonamassa

Director of Watches Design Center Fabrizio先生說。

stigliani, senior Director of Bulgari Watches Design Center. “To us, especially from the design point of view, they are very similar in

由於擁有自家廠房，有能力自行研製機芯，Bulgari腕錶的

appearances.

功能十分全面，由最複雜的三問自鳴到超薄錶到閃爍女裝錶式式俱備，Fabrizio領導的設計中心，挑戰可不小。對他來說，原來

“This year, we have fine-tuned the look of Daniel roth’s collections,

設計難度最高是女裝的簡單錶。「女裝錶焦點不在機芯，女生只

with different lug design, slimmer bezels and different dial layouts, to be

看外表，很簡單，只有喜歡或不喜歡。設計時我們主力從幾何形

more in line with the Bulgari style. if you look at the octo Bi-retrograde

狀出發，錶圈、錶耳部份盡量造成別樹一格，即使錶盤沒有品牌

and the Bulgari Papillon, you will see they have the family look.”

logo，也會一眼看出是Bulgari出品。」你看剛新鮮出爐的Diva，找到它身上的DNA嗎？提示是錶耳。

Diagono Scuba 58

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Octo Biretrograde

Bulgari Papillon

Diva

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Watch News

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

這個年代要找號召力及氣質相當的男星當奢侈品宣傳大使不容易，偏偏走遍中港台日韓東南亞，還給伯爵找來這個身邊女士都為之降服的崔始源！縱使《赤道》的特工被評為不合理地靚仔、《破風》的衝線王又評為過分正義，但香港人對

崔始源談送禮哲學

PIAGET

Choi Siwon'S Beyond A Gift 看著這張鬱鬱幽幽的美男子照片，你會想起

始源就是有一份不合理的包容及愛戴。人靚仔，心地也好。始源早於2010年起，已是UNICEF 的宣傳大使，關愛世界各地的小孩們。今天再當宣傳大使的，是伯爵Piaget。他跟品牌拍攝了一段關於「贈禮哲學」的短片，老實說，Possession戒指及 Altiplano腕錶的出鏡率雖然不低，但風頭都給始源搶過了大半，這是始料所及吧。不過，有一場面我是印像深刻的，就是始源把玩戒指那一幕，可以轉動的Possession指環原來

誰？縱使只是那一剎，那不覊俊俏的氣質，教

那麼有趣有意思，輕輕一轉，那光芒、那貴氣都給散射出來

我想起用那真心癡愛來做證的他……

港品牌人員透露，始源真人隨和到不得了，一般同檯吃飯搭

Who comes to mind when you look at this handsome face? For a split second, my infatuated heart thought of him... text | Ringo

了。再爆一點花邊新聞給大家聽，據有份參與短片拍攝的香膊頭影相屬小兒科，早陣子Watches&Wonders舉行期間品牌忙得七孔出煙時，始源居然以短訊送上最強力的打氣祝福，羨煞旁人！ It’s not easy to find an appealing and charismatic male star to be a luxury brand’s ambassador. After searching all over greater China, Korea, Japan and Southeast Asia, Piaget settled upon ladies’ man Choi Siwon. He’s the undeniably handsome agent from the movie Helios, the overly righteous champion from To The Fore that Hong Kongers love. Good looking and kindhearted, Siwon has been a UNICEF ambassador since 2010, caring about children worldwide. Today, he’s the ambassador for Piaget, for whom he did a short film Beyond A Gift. Honestly, although the exposure rate for Piaget’s Possession ring and Altiplano wristwatch is rather high in the film, the limelight still falls on Siwon. There is one scene that made a deep impression on me. It is the scene where Siwon plays with the ring. The turning of the Possession ring can actually be made interesting -- gently turning, sparkling, radiating sumptuousness. A little gossip for you. According to the film crew and brand personnel in Hong Kong, Siwon is extremely easygoing and hung out with them for meals. Recently, when the Watches&Wonders fair was underway and the brand’s personnel were utterly busy, Siwon actually sent them a message, wishing them well. Envy!

R. Piaget Altiplano 43mm

L. Possession 18K玫瑰金鑽石戒指，鑲有0.04克拉圓鑽，約 $3,300。 18K rose gold diamond ring, paved with a 0.04-carat round diamond, approximately $3,300.

18K白金腕錶，搭載1208P超薄自動上鏈機芯，約$33,000。 18K white gold wristwatch, powered by a 1208P slim automatic movement, approximately $33,000.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Watch News 很多腕錶專家評價，勞士力今年全

Watch experts tend to be in agreement that Rolex’s new

新的Oyster Perpetual Day-Date，

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, shrunk infinitesimally from 41 to

外殼由41mm微調至40mm，帶出

40 millimetres, is astonishingly different in feel. Its accuracy to

了驚人的觸感變化！瑞士天文台認

within -2 and +2 seconds per day surpasses COSC’s stringent

證COSC每日可接受的誤差為-4/+6

standard of -4 and +6 seconds of variation per day, and is even

秒，日本Grand Seiko的標準更

a cut above the slightly more demanding Japan Grand Seiko

高一等，每天誤差值僅-3/+5秒；

standard of -3 and +5 seconds.

Rolex今天要挑戰的，是更嚴苛的每日-2/+2秒！

微調1mm

ROLEX

OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE The difference one millimeTre makes 全新機芯名為3255，包含了14項專利技

The new Calibre 3255 boasts 14 patents, and 90 per cent of the parts have undergone

術，內裡接近9成部件均經過重新設計和改良；

redesigns and improvements. The Chronergy escapement has the positions of pellet fork,

當中的擒縱系統稱為Chronergy擒縱，設計師們

escape wheel and oscillator slightly offset, the thickness of the pellet stones reduced by

將擒縱叉連接擒縱輪和擺輪的位置稍作偏移、

half, and the contact surface of the escape wheel teeth doubled. The escape wheel and the

將擒縱叉寶石的厚度削減一半、把擒縱輪齒的

pellet fork in nickel‑phosphorus are free from magnetic interference. The cut‑out design of

接觸點增加一倍，另外擒縱輪和擒縱叉使用不

the escape wheel makes it lighter, ultimately improving the escapement’s efficiency by 15

受磁場干擾的鎳磷（Nickel-phosphorus）製作，

per cent.

又將擺輪鏤通處理以減輕其重量，最終令擒縱系統的效能提升了15%。

Four versions are available in the new collection, all in precious metal. The everose gold version comes with a striped dial of the same shade. The

新系列帶來4個錶款，採用貴金屬錶殼，包

white gold version is matched with a silver‑striped dial. The

括紅金殼配同色直紋錶盤、白金款配橫直紋相

yellow gold version has a champagne dial, and the most

間銀色錶盤、黃金殼則配香檳色錶盤，還有這

alluring platinum version is set against an icy‑blue

枚最叫人怦然心動的鉑金配斜格紋冰藍面。由

checkered dial. As all versions come in

於採用的都是貴金屬，最便宜的黃金版也售約

precious metal, even the entry‑level

三萬五，圖中最貴的冰藍鉑金版配鑽石時標則

one will set you back $35,000. The

約八萬多；我們當然主觀願望，Calibre 3255自

priciest platinum version with

動機芯早日能下放到精鋼版，到時便可更普及

diamond indexes, pictured

地體驗勞力士的超精準技術。

here, goes for upwards of $80,000. We can only wish for the early release of more accessible stainless steel versions, so that more people get to enjoy Rolex’s superior precision standard through Calibre 3255.

text | Ringo photo | Kauzrambler

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Watch news 從修復到製錶

Parmigiani Fleurier RestoReR tuRned makeR

瑞士名錶Parmigiani Fleurier（帕瑪強尼）創辦人兼總裁 Michel Parmigiani，每年都會親身出席不同國家的發布會，現場講解及即時解答傳媒的問題。Parmigiani的製錶精神是「專一」－不論是複雜機芯、幾何錶面等，他也要參與製作。有別於其他腕錶品牌，Michel Parmigiani好像從沒有銷售壓力，毋須為市場妥協，可隨心製作自己喜歡的鐘錶藝術，而且每年產量僅5,000枚，十分珍貴。 Michel Parmigiani, founder and President of Swiss luxury watch brand Parmigiani Fleurier, is hands-on when it comes to promoting the brand. He makes a point of attending product launches in various countries every year, to present his work to the media and answer questions.His attitude towards watchmaking is equally singular. He insists on rolling up his sleeves for the production, be it for complications or geometric dials. Unlike other watch brands, Parmigiani doesn’t seem to worry about sales and is uncompromising when it comes to quality. He makes whatever tickles his fancy, and he produces only 5,000 pieces a year, making his products highly collectible. text,photo(evene) | PL

Bugatti Mythe

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

左起：Michel Parmigiani、Jason Bosa（Palladio Jewellers總裁）及 Thierry Collot （Parmigiani Fleurier美洲總經理）合攝。 From left: Michel Parmigiani, Jason Bosa, President of Palladio Jewellers, and Thierry Collot, general manager of Parmigiani Fleurier Americas.

日前Michel Parmigiani首度到訪溫哥華，親自講解品牌腕錶的每個結構。 Michel Parmigiani gives a detailed description of the inner intricacy of the brand’s watches during a recent maiden visit to Canada.

很多人都知道Parmigiani以修復古

Bugatti Anniversaire 2004年Bugatti 370的誕生轟動製錶界，為了慶祝Parmigiani與Bugatti雙方結緣10周年，2014年品牌推出了3款限量版Bugatti腕錶。品牌決定將標識性的Bugatti 370錶款及其橫向管狀機芯作為基礎，展現了Parmigiani的創造力以及對工藝的追求。周年限量版包括Bugatti Mythe、Bugatti Victoire和Bugatti Revelation 3款全新腕錶。每款都展現了這一合作中的不同亮點或者對腕錶創作起到重要作用之汽車世界的獨特一面。 Bugatti Mythe是汽車領域工業與工藝的完美結合；Bugatti Revelation找到了汽車與腕表之間的聯繫，正是這一聯繫指引著整個合作；最後， Bugatti Victoire傳達了Bugatti汽車自創立以來一貫的速度和動力理念。 The launch of Bugatti 370 in 2004 was a big event for the watchmaking industry. To mark the 10th anniversary of the partnership

between Parmigiani and the automaker, three limited-edition Bugatti watches were introduced in 2014. On the basis of the iconic Bugatti 370 and the horizontal tubular calibre, Parmigiani once again exhibits its innovativeness and pursuit of artistry. The anniversary limited editions – Bugatti Mythe, Bugatti Victoire and Bugatti Revelation – underscore a unique aspect of the collaboration and the impact the unique automobile world has to bear on the art of watchmaking.Bugatti Mythe is a perfect integration of the production and artistry of the motor world. Bugatti Revelation finds the link between motors and watches that is the heart of the collaboration. Bugatti Victoire conveys the sense of speed and dynamism of Bugatti’s car-making art.

董鐘錶馳名，Michel Parmigiani畢業後即投身於鐘錶修復事業，同時也兼為收藏人士生產獨家作品。後來他遇到了瑞士山度士（Sandoz）家族，開始替山度士家族基金博物館維修鐘錶藏品，山度士家族基金會對Michel Parmigiani的精湛技藝大為賞識，全力協助他擴展個人品牌鐘錶業務。品牌採用獨立垂直式生產，所有機械機芯的大小零件都是自家製作，包括每粒螺絲！只有部分錶帶來自獨家供應商Hermès，滿足品牌本身對品質和工藝水準的要求。又由於 Parmigiani為不少一級著名品牌代工生產腕錶機芯及零件，所以在瑞士錶壇佔著舉足輕重的地位。

Tonda 1950 Tourbillon 搭載現時全球最薄微型擺陀自動上鏈飛行陀飛輪PF 517機芯，厚度只 3.4mm，陀飛輪框架重量又是另一個世界紀錄，利用鈦金屬打造，只重0.255克，優點是慣性低，不會損失扭矩動力，直接提升精準度。新機芯同時應用了多項新技術，包括以「變數慣性擺輪」取代螺絲擺輪。 The thinnest self-winding microrotor flying tourbillon, powered by PF 517 calibre, is a

mere 3.4 millimetres in thickness and boasts yet another record in the weight of its titanium tourbillon carriage, at only 0.255 grams. The upshot is low inertia with little loss of torque, hence greater precision and chronometry. The new calibre boasts various innovative features, including the use of a variable inertia balance instead of a screw balance.

After finishing school, Parmigiani began his career restoring old watches and then started producing custom-made timepieces for collectors on the side. He then met members of the Sandoz family and began to restore the watch collections in the family foundation’s

Tonda 1950 Special Edition Meteorite 錶面採用的隕石，是當進入大氣層後的一種隕石原料，由於經歷高溫和急速冷卻的過程，所以表面留有獨一無二的晶體結構。雖說沒有拋光打磨，錶面處理工序都十分複雜，特別是硬度高於普通岩石及無法預測的結構，所以並不是每塊隕石也能完整切割。搭配PF 701超薄機芯。 The meteorite used for the dial has a unique crystal

structure, imprinted when the meteor rock undergoes sharp temperature changes. Though unpolished, the rock must be treated in a complex process. As the meteorite is harder than normal rock and its mineral structure is unpredictable, not every piece of meteor rock can be cut perfectly. It is powered by the ultra-thin PF 701 calibre.

museum.Impressed by his skills, the foundation threw its weight behind Parmigiani’s endeavours to develop his own brand. The brand adopts a vertical production model and makes every single part for its mechanisms -- right down to each individual screw -- in order to maintain its stringent standards for quality and craftsmanship. The one exception is some watch straps

Toric Lepine Special Edition Lalique Toric Lepine是將高級鐘錶與頂級水晶結合的藝術結晶，這款獨一無二的座鐘，其水晶鐘殼由Lalique打造，水晶內鑲有品牌的懷錶，這個傑作同時是為了向Lalique創辦人Rene Lalique 的作品致敬。懷錶搭載了一個具有三問裝置的PF 355手上鍊機芯，大教堂鐘聲音簧及雙音錘，能依次以時、刻及分鐘報時。機芯有72小時動力儲備。直徑55mm的鉑金懷錶，兩面的 Lalique水晶浮雕（阿瑞圖薩女性面龐和水滴）對Lalique而言是不折不扣的挑戰。為了完美環繞懷表的輪廓，必須對Lalique水晶進行手工加工以確保完全達到所要求的精細度和精確度。錶盤表面由品牌採用多道嚴格的工序完成。每枚腕錶合共耗時2,270小時打造。 Combining haute horlogerie with world-class crystal work, the incomparable table clock features a crystal case by Lalique, a tribute to

the artistry of Lalique founder René Lalique. The 55-millimetre platinum Parmigiani Fleurier pocket watch inside the crystal case is powered by the hand-winding PF355 and features a minute repeater that chimes the hours, quarter hours and the minutes with cathedral chimes and two sets of gongs.The mechanism provides 72 hours of power reserve. The Lalique crystal sculpture depicts the face of nymph Arethusa on one side and a stream of bubbles on the other. It’s a real challenge to sculpt the case exterior to hug the contours of the pocket watch. Hence, the Lalique crystal has to be hand-worked to ensure the exact degree of detail and precision required. The dial is crafted by Parmigiani in a meticulous process. A total of 2,270 hours were invested in making this single piece of objet d’art.

are supplied exclusively by Hermès. Parmigiani also provides parts and mechanisms to other well-known watch brands. It is, indeed, an influential player in the world of Swiss watchmaking.

Enquiry: Palladio Jewellers ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Gucci washed gabardine heritage trench coat with silk scarf lining

Men’s Style

乾濕褸內的藝術

The coaT with a silky lining text | Lisa photo | Jack

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Trench coat，中國內地和台灣都譯作

In mainland China and Taiwan, it’s called a windbreaker.

風衣，還是廣東話最傳神，叫它做乾濕

In Cantonese, it’s the dry/wet coat. That says everything

褸，乾身時不侷身，下雨時可防水，本

about a trench coat. Indeed it is breezy for dry weather

身就是乾濕褸的特質。今年，要買一件

and protective on wet days. This season’s must-have is –

乾濕褸，居然不是Burberry，而是Gucci。

surprise, surprise — not from Burberry, but Gucci.

自1879年Thomas Burberry創造出防水又透氣的物料gabardine，再被改良成英國軍服的大褸，這乾濕褸的原形在百多年來基本上沒多大改變。「Trench」意指戰場上的壕溝，已表達了它作為軍裝大褸的來源，至今不少軍事元素仍保留於細節。肩上的搭帶是用來夾著帽子、手套、口哨等；領口扣環是方便軍人迅速扣上抵禦寒風。右胸前的方形布叫gun flap，據稱可在開槍時降低後座力，下雨時也可避免雨水直接流進大褸內的槍袋。大褸背面多出來的一塊布，是讓雨水順著布面滑落地面，避免淋濕。袖口束帶是為了防風和避免雨水流入，而腰帶上的D形環則是為了掛地圖、手榴彈等軍事用具。

since thomas Burberry invented waterproof and breathable gabardine in 1879 and adapted the material for the coats of British soldiers during the great war, the defining features of a trench coat have, more or less, stayed the same for a century. the military origin, as suggested by the word “trench”, is obvious in the design details. the shoulder straps were for clipping on berets, gloves or whistles. the collar hook was meant for quick fastening. the “gun flap”, which is the fabric square on the right chest, was supposed to cushion the recoil from discharging a gun and to keep the rain from dripping into the gunholder inside the coat.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Men’s Style

以上細節，在今日的乾濕褸上要數齊絕不容易，畢竟許多已沒有實際用途，但Gucci今季這件乾濕褸卻是一樣不漏，由gabardine 布料到gun flap以至腰帶上的皮扣（最傳統的乾濕褸採用全皮扣，現在幾乎絕跡）和D-ring，全部做齊兼做得細緻，這份貫徹傳統的心思實屬難得。但最驚喜卻是翻開大褸，居然以原條花卉絲巾作內裡，這付諸於傳統的新意是做得低調又細膩。品牌創意總監Alessandro Michele今季一上場便為Gucci men塑造了文藝青年形象，在他而言，花卉是柔弱、詩意、幻想的代名詞，再加上絲巾的飄逸質地，恰恰貼合文青形象。而這條絲巾，也絕不是隨便由品牌典藏庫選一條車上乾濕褸就算數，絲巾上面的花卉圖案，是1966年摩洛哥王妃 Grace Kelly到訪Gucci米蘭專門店，遇到品牌創辦人Guccio Gucci 的兒子Rodolfo Gucci，他承諾要為Grace Kelly造一條最美麗的花卉圖案絲巾，於是找來當時著名插畫家Vittorio Accornero特地畫的，是一幅專屬於Grace Kelly及品牌的花卉圖案，上面有九種花朵、紅莓、蝴蝶、蜻蜓等，浪漫詩意。知道了這些，就會驚訝於Alessandro Michele的細膩心思，由整體造象至衣服細節，全都貫徹他所塑造的文藝青年形象，就如他形容「浪漫、典雅，並享受穿衣的『藝術』」。在他手上，最傳統的乾濕褸和Gucci標誌性的絲巾，兩樣舊產物明明好像風馬牛不相及，卻可以融和得剛好，分別為兩者賦予新意，像舊又似新，硬朗中又帶一點柔，所以說Gucci今季這件乾濕褸，值得買。 that extra piece of cloth on the back was for draining rainwater from the surface of the coat to the ground to keep the wearer dry. Cuff straps could be tightened to keep out wind and rain. the D-ring on the belt was for clipping on maps, grenades and other military paraphernalia. it may not be easy to find all these details on today’s trench coat, as many of the purposes they served are no longer applicable. however, gucci’s trench coat for this season regroups all the details – from gabardine to the gun flap and the D-ring, right down to the leather buckle. (the most authentic trench coat uses all-leather buckles, something rare these days). not only are the details all there, but they are also done meticulously to stay true to heritage. the biggest surprise, though, is inside the coat. it is lined with a whole piece of floral silk, subtly adding a contemporary touch to a classic garment. the brand’s creative director, alessandro Michele, launched the season with this literary youth look for gucci men. to him, floral is a euphemism for delicate, poetic and fantasy. Couple that with the fluidity of silk and, voila — the literary feel. the silk in the coat is not a random choice from the brand’s archive. it was the one created in 1966 for grace kelly, the late Princess of Monaco, when she visited gucci’s Milan store and met Rodolfo gucci, son of founder guccio gucci. Rodolfo vowed to make the most beautiful floral silk scarf for kelly. he co-opted a famous artist at the time, Vittorio accornero, to create a poetic floral print of nine types of blooms, red berries, butterflies and dragonflies. such is the remarkable tale showing how much thought Michele has put into creating this cultured look. From the silhouette to the finer details, the look is, as he described it, “romantic, classic and artistic.” he has managed to marry a classic trench coat with gucci’s emblematic silk scarf — two seemingly disparate icons coming together in harmony. Each is given a new lease of life. it is old and new at the same time; tough, but with a hint of softness. this is why the gucci trench coat is a good buy this season.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Runway

野獸都市

CoaCh

Beast & the City

出名賣袋的Coach，今季，他們出男裝。 Coach of New York is expanding into menswear this season. text | 冰汪

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

01•Black leather jean jacket US$995

04•Wild Beast print leather backpack US$895

02•Military shearling B-3 bomber jacket US$1,995

05•Shearling hi-top sneakers US$375

03•Shearling and leather baseball jacket US$1,400

新系列由英倫紳士Stuart Vevers策騎，這位

The new clothing series is the work of Englishman

前Mulberry及Loewe創作總監，兩年前被欽點加入

Stuart Vevers, former creative director of Mulberry &

大蘋果品牌，經過兩個女裝系列熱身，終於為一

Loewe. While growing up, Vevers’ bedroom was adorned

眾New York City boy帶來首個男裝系列。今個月

with My Own Private Idaho movie posters. Now that

才滿四十二歲的他，年輕時睡房貼上《不羈的天空》

the 42-year-old calls the United States home, he has

海報，現在以美國為家，順理成章將他腦海中不羈

projected the rebellious performances of Keanu Reeves

到暈的Keanu Reeves及River Phoenix，投射到設

and River Phoenix from that film onto his designs. This

計之上，所以這批ready-to-wear真的很ready-to-

ready-to-wear collection is truly ready to wear, and

wear，完全可以total look遊走曼克頓。

provides a total look for roaming around Manhattan.

系列中，充滿美式風情的shearling是主

In the collection, the very-American shearling is

角，時裝騷打頭陣一連八個造型，全是shearling

the main star. The first eight looks at the fashion show

jacket，大部分是shearling lining的皮褸，亦有

feature shearling. Most are leather jackets with shearling

反客為主的全shearling外套，落雪也不怕，只怕

lining, but there are also all-shearling jackets — fully

落雨。眾多毛毛褸之中，最喜歡一件軍綠色皮革

prepared for the snow, but not for rain. Among the many

配黑shearling的B-3 bomber jacket，皮革做了一

fur jackets, this writer’s favourite is a green leather B-3

點vintage效果，顏色變了，衫身纖體了，就把

bomber jacket with black shearling. The leather has a bit

經典空軍褸化身hifashion，點到即止。停不了的

of a vintage look, with the colour slightly distressed. The

shearling，還有棒球褸，以及毛毛鞋舌的高筒波

body of the jacket is more tailored, turning the classic

鞋，兩者同樣誘人。

military jacket into high fashion, but ever so subtly. For this debut menswear collection, Vevers and the brand

對於這個處男系列，值得一讚Stuart Vevers

have mastered high-precision positioning. Whether it is

及品牌的精準定位，不論是設計風格，抑或訂價，

the design style, or pricing, everything is just right. As

統統恰如其分。身為美國品牌，衣服走軍事及運動

an American brand, going military and athletic is right on

風，中正男人紅心。在以皮起家的地盤，他將在皮

target. Given Vevers’ experience with Mulberry & Loewe,

王Loewe累積的經驗，結合American style，創作

the result is a large selection of leather jackets. Among

出大量皮褸，當中有一件以柔軟黑皮革製成的牛仔

them is a soft black leather jacket in the style of a denim

褸款，輕易而舉將兩種元素二合一。既然玩軍事，

jacket, expertly combining two design elements.

迷彩是必修科，他沒有將由細穿到大的迷彩搬字過

With a military style comes the camouflage look, to

紙，而是把紐約街頭原創的graffiti文化，融合成一

which Vevers has added the graffiti art from the streets of

幅塗鴉迷彩，並且命名Wild Beast。

New York. He calls it “Wild Beast.”

06•Military shearling B-3 bomber jacket US$1,995

10•Wild Beast sneakers US$225

07•Grey cotton Wild Beast pocket tee US$95

11•Furry stripe skinny scarf US$250

08•Military shearling track jacket US$2,200

all available at Coach

09•Grey cotton Wild Beast pocket tee US$95

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Xmas Gift Guide

Gift Guide 2015年時尚無論在年頭的春季還是臨近聖誕的秋冬繼續大放異彩。從春季時光倒流上世紀七十年代的流蘇花花世界，一直到年尾的酒紅皮革花邊大衣，潮流穿梭幾個世代。今年聖誕時尚依然繼續流蘇主導，黑金領航，還有永遠都不會被冬天淘汰的豹紋毛毛系列。如果想凸顯時尚特色，送禮選擇還有玩味十足的TTC聖誕飾品；另外經典禮品當中還有聖誕專屬的大紅花系和跨世代瘋魔全球的星戰系列，都是不錯的聖誕送禮之選。

Since the year began, there has been no let-up in dazzling styles. We have crossed over generations, from the tassles of the ‘70s that were popular in spring, to burgundy leather fringes trendy at year’s end. At Christmas, fringe is still mainstream and black gold rules, along with the staple winter look of furry leopard prints. As for Christmas gift-giving, the very things that speak can be found in the fun TTC Christmas collection. Classic festive poinsettia plants and the Star Wars memorabilia that is taking the world by storm are also popular seasonal gift choices. text | Zoe Mak

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Her 送給她的禮物一定離不開今季時尚焦點的閃耀mini dress或者

The gift for her has to be something that accentuates this season’s

accent accessories身上，利用色彩繽紛的包包或者誇張飾物來襯

shining look of the mini-dress. A colourful bag or an over-the-top

托設計或者顏色較簡單的上衣；另外較保守的選擇則為黑金陪襯

accessory will set off a simple-coloured top. Black gold or ever-

又或者永恆的豹紋都是每一個秋冬都不能夠缺少的元素。

popular leopard prints are more understated choices.

03 04

05 08

07 09

01•Moncler jacket $4,390 02•Fendi graphic dress $2,480 03•MCM Berlin Box Bag $1,795 04•Edie Parker round box clutch $1,755 05•M2Malletier leopard print bag $2,425 06•Chloé Drew bag $3,990 07•Loewe small degradé pink suede puzzle bag $2,655 08•Christian Louboutin pumps $1,165 09•Buscemi sneakers $995 10•Stella McCartney leopard print pants $795 11•Balenciaga choker $820 12•YSL chain necklace $1,895 All available at Holt Renfrew

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Xmas Gift Guide

Her 01

01•Balmain color-block beaded velvet mini dress US$21,678 02•Lancome Nouvelle Vague Alexandré Vauthier limited edition set US$1,579 All available at net-a-porter.com 03•La Perla embroidered tulle and neoprene bodysuit US$3,101 04•Louis Vuitton Petite Malle Emeraude $37,500 Available at Louis Vuitton 05•Gucci Dionysus GG Supreme embroidered bag $3,975 Available at Gucci 06•UGG@Australia UGG Birche Slipper $109.95 Avaialable at Nordstrom 07•T3 PROi professional hair dryer $440 Available at Sephora 08•NARS Steven Klein One Shocking Moment Cheek Studio palette $92 (narscosmetics.com)

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Her

01 01•Hermès Lolita hat in rabbit felt, alligato r & calfskin $2,020 02•Hermès Charnière bracelet, Thin $730, Large $805, Extra Large $1,015 03•Hermès Filet d’Or Bracelets in rose gold & diamond $price upon request All available at Hermès

04•Burberry black frindged suede poncho $4,795 05•Burberry the bucket bag in tiered suede fringing $3,195 Both available in Burberry 06•Charlotte Olympia Décor pumps $1,295 07•Jimmy Choo Fyonn heels $1,750 08•Nicholas Kirkwood Balter $1,450 All available at Davids Footwear

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Xmas Gift Guide

HiM 送給他的禮物選擇其實不會比她的少，而且誰說給男士

Gift choices for him are just as numerous as for her, and who says

的禮物一定只有黑白灰的衣履呢？華麗的多米諾骨牌或者復

that male gifts have to be black, white or grey clothing? A set of exquisite

古收音機，還有潮物Hoverboard和深層潔臉護膚刷都是驚喜

dominos, a retro radio, a trendy hoverboard or a deep-cleansing facial brush

之選。

will definitely surprise him.

01 07

09 02

01•PhunkeeDuck red hoverboard $1,800 02•Bottega Veneta belt $500 03•Bertoni studded briefcase $1,895 04•Palm Angels sweater $595 05•Clarisonic face cleansing brush $230 06•Moncler puffer vest $840 07•Bottega Veneta tote bag $4,160 08•Jimmy Choo loafers $875 All available at Holt Renfrew

09•Harris For Davids low boots $725 10•Salvatore Ferragamo for Men Night sneakers $1,090 All available at Davids Footwear 11•Burberry tarnished alligator leather domino set $4,595 12•Burberry The Britain icon check limited edition BBY2008 45MM manual winding $19,500 Both available at Burberry 13•Monocle Revo Super Connect radio $530 Available at Drake General Store

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

HiM

01 09

01•Z Zegna cashmere sweater $575 02• Burberry card wallet $380 03•Duchamp cufflinks $185 04•Burberry cashmere scarf $550 05•Benson Patch pocket sweater jacket $250 All available at Harry Rosen

06•Hermès Octogone bag with Rocabar-stripe shoulder strap $6,475 07•Hermès Nautilus fountain pen $1,700 ; cartride holder $595 08•Hermès Cityhall briefcase in calfskin $11,635 09•Hermès Lucas gloves in glazed calfskin & alligator $2,020 All available at Hermès 10•WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie ‘Kastrup’ Backpack $675 Available at Normstrom 11•Gucci wool cotton coat with shearling $8,980 Available at Gucci

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Xmas Gift Guide

KidS 聖誕節是每一個小孩子每年最期待實現wishlist的節日，現在

Kids these days love gadgets meant for adults, whereas forever

的小孩好像反而較喜歡大人的電子玩意，相反長不大的kidult卻要

young-at-heart “kidults” want to stay indulged in childhood delights.

追回兒時的童真；不過一個Star Wars雪球大戰sleep over派對，

A classic Star Wars Fight in the Snow sleepover party, combined with

還有同場加映的烘培家庭樂都應該可以滿足任何年齡的好玩一族。

family baking fun, will keep the playful of all ages very happy.

01•Kenzo dress $178 02•Fendi kids sweatshirt $260 03•Kenzo onsies $88 04• Stella McCartney kids grey top $135 05•Stella McCartney kids bib set $140 06•Christian Lacroix Advent Calendar $68 All available at Holt Renfrew 07• Indoor snowballs 15 pack $21.99 Available at Mastermind

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Xmas Gift Guide

KidS

01•Star Wars bed $5,995 02• Star Wars Darth Vader Bath Wrap $65 03•Dr. Seuss’s The Grinch Flannel Pajama $73 04•Star Wars Darth Vader Wall Shelf $172 05•Star Wars sleeping bags from $170 All available at Pottery Barn Kids

08•Abstract stocking red $39 09•Monocle map of the world $160 10•Log headrest pillow $24 11•Little Me Cat Blanket $99 Available at Drake General Store

06•American Girl for Williams-Sonoma Essentials Set $85 07•American Girl for Williams-Sonoma Pizza Set $55 Both available at Williams-Sonoma

12•Burberry Thomas Bear in shearling with bow detail $1,050 Available at Burberry

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Xmas Gift Guide

HOMe 聖誕佳節最讓人期待的不只是美酒佳餚的大hamper或者是聖

Other than hampers laden with great wine and delicacies, or

誕限定的紅色小家電，其實送禮講求心思，目的就是希望收到禮

festive small red appliances, Christmas household gifts should be

物的朋友有窩心的感覺。貼心的禮物除了有一定的實用性之餘，

practical to a certain degree. Most importantly, they must make the

最重要還是要讓家人朋友感到特別禮遇；今年送上富有多倫多特

recipient feel special. A streetcar butter dish imparts a strong Toronto

色的streetcar牛油碟或者是精製打造的料理刀都是蠻貼心的選擇。

touch, while a high-end kitchen knife might just be the right choice to capture their imagination.

01• Tree decanter $81 02•Cooper Wine bottle Cooler $65 Both available at Pottery Barn 03• Felt Donut ornament $14 04• Macaron ornament $10 05• Streetcar Ornament $10 06•Streetcar butter dish $80 07•Moomin Blanket $99 All available at Drake General Store 08• 500 by Gucci GG imprimé dog carrier $2,690 Available at Gucci 09• Hermès Voyage en Ikat mug & saucer $510 Available at Hermès

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

HOMe 01

01•Fortnum & Mason International Afternoon Tea Box $140 02•Aesop Animal shampoo $51 03•Fornasetti La Chiave Nero Diffusing Sphere $495 All Available at Holt Renfrew 04•Burberry large London map print picture frame $725 05•Burberry animal jacquard cashmere cushion cover $900 06•Ruffoni Copper artichoke handle braiser $570 07• All-Clad stainless-steel flared roasters fom $350 All available at Williams-Sonoma

08•Leather knife bag $450 09•Takeda AS Menkiri noodle knife $560 10• Konosuke Blue #1 Black Damascus 270mm Yanagiba ebony and bone knife $5,000 All available at Tosho Knife Arts

05 04

購物點 Where to buy: Holt Renfrew Toronto – 50 Bloor St W, 416.922.2333 Vancouver – 737 Dunsmuir St, 604.681.3121 Hermès Toronto – 130 Bloor St W, 416.968.8626 Vancouver – 755 Burrard St, 604.681.9965 Gucci Toronto - 130 Bloor St W #102, 416.963.5127 Vancouver – 900 W Georgia St, 604.488.0320 Louis Vuitton Toronto – 150 Bloor St W, 416.968.3993 Vancouver – 730 Burrard St, 604.696.9404 Burberry Toronto – 146 Bloor St W, 416.920.7717

Vancvouer - 737 Dunsmuir St, 604.681.3121 Pottery Barn Toronto – 100 Bloor St W Unit 4, 416.962.2276 Vancouver – 2600 Granville St, 604.678.9897 Pottery Barn Kids Toronto – 100 Bloor St W, 416.961.2276 Vancouver – 2935 Granville St, 604.638.7494 Williams-Sonoma Toronto – 100 Bloor St W, 416.962.9455 Vancouver – 2903 Granville St, 778.330.2581 Drake General Store Toronto – 2607 Yonge St, 416.966.0553 Vancouver – 674 Granville St, 604.681.6211

Mastermind Toronto – 3350 Yonge St, 416.487.7177 Vancouver – 3000 Lougheed Hwy, 778.284.7103 Sephora Toronto – 131 Bloor St W, 416.513.1100 Vancouver – 701 W Georgia St, 778.331.3942 Nordstrom Toronto – nordstrom.com Vancouver - 799 Robson St, 604.699.2100 Davids Footwear Toronto – 66 Bloor St W, 416.920.1000 Tosho Knife Arts Toronto - 602 Markham St, Lower Level, 647.722.6329

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Xmas Gift Guide

01•Diamond Engagement Ring GIA certified and crafted in 18K white gold or platinum. 02•Jadeite Diamond Ring 18K W/G jadeite and diamond ring 03•Phoenix The eternal queen of birds! 18K agate and diamond pendant. 04•Oritenal Charm Like a flower blooming crafted in the finest Jadeite, 18K and diamond.

05•Handmade Pendants 24K gold handmade pendants. 06•Nephrite Pendant with Diamond and Emerald Nephrite pendant 18K yellow gold with diamond and emerald. 07•Elegance

中西匯萃老鳳祥珠寶

LFX JeweLry East MEEts WEst

text | Katherine Xu photo | Lao Feng Xiang

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

This rare white nephrite jade has represented pureness of knowledge, high respect and wisdom toward the wearer.

至今在全球擁有近3,000家經營網點、167歷史的老鳳祥珠寶，正式進駐溫哥華名店雲集的Alberni街。

With nearly 3,000 stores throughout the world, Lao Feng Xiang Jewelry has finally arrived in Canada, with a flagship store now open in Vancouver.

作為中國珠寶首飾業的領軍企業，老鳳祥擁有的

Established since 1848, LFX’s designers and craftsmen have won numerous

設計團隊和多位國寶級工藝美術大師，在國內外獲獎

international awards, and it boasts the most highly recognized trademark in all of

無數。今次來到溫哥華，品牌為北美市場量身訂造，

China. In planning for its launch in Vancouver, special collections were created by

銳意把中西文化元素結合的嶄新珠寶設計，帶給本地

combining eastern and western cultures.

顧客。 Jadeite is one of LFX’s most cherished collections. Nephrite, the most ancient 除了東方色彩較濃的翡翠掛件、耳飾和手鐲，老鳳祥的古老的新疆和田玉——青玉雕刻的竹韻生香

and rarest forms of jade, is set in delicate jewelry creations or larger hand-carved pieces such as the precious Bamboo Teapot.

壺、白玉雕刻的和合二仙皆較為罕見。18K鑽石和彩色寶石首飾，如動靜系列、幸運星系列，較適合作為少女們的聖誕禮物。至於訂婚鑽戒系列，單顆美鑽搭

18-carat diamond and coloured gemstone collections are fun to wear. They also make great gifts.

配經典設計，較能迎合時尚女性的品味（老鳳祥的所 LFX is renowned for its diamond engagement ring collection with GIA-certified

有鑽石訂婚戒指都附帶GIA證書）。

diamonds

01•Candy Collection Rainbow tourmalines in 18K white, yellow and rose gold. Like candy wrapped around every girl’s finger. 02•Bands 18K sapphire, ruby and diamond Bands. 03•Antiquity Reminiscent of ancient pottery, award winning 18K, yellow gold and diamond ring. 04•Remix Collection 18K and diamond and rose gold. 05•Lucky Stars Diamond Collection. 18K white and rose gold. 06•Phoenix and Dragon Bridal Collection 24K 07•Nephrite Pot Nephrite bamboo style pot, carved from top quality grey nephrite pebbles.

售賣點 Where to Buy

地址 Location: 1016 Alberni St., Vancouver

營業時間 Open: Mon-Wed 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Thu-Fri 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Sat 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sun 12-6 p.m.

電話 Telephone: 1-855-656-6868 or 604-629-9688 (local)

Email: alberni@lfxjewelry.ca

網址 Website: lfxjewelry.ca

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Makeup 那動人時光

Good old TiMes

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

黑色眼妝與深濃唇色，是經典中的經典，是永不退流行的復

提及復古妝，大部分人都會想起粗黑眼

古妝的精髓，能彰顯女性優雅高貴一面，亦能演繹出嫵媚性

線與大紅唇，足證其經典程度。配襯粗黑向上勾

感的一面。如果你打算在聖誕節以一身復古風亮相派對，

畫的黑色眼線，眼尾也要畫得較濃黑，更可於上眼後半位置貼上半副假睫毛，延伸魅惑誘人感覺。

妝容上的配合亦不容忽視。

ClassiC Red

Black eye makeup, coupled with dark lip colour, is the

Talking about the vintage look, most people

most classic of classics. This look is the essence of

immediately think of thick black eyeliner and bright red

vintage. It never goes out of style. Not only does it reflect the

upwards, you need to be careful to keep the end near the

elegance and gracefulness of women, but it also expresses

lips. Matched with a thick black eye line drawn curving corner of the eye thick and black as well. You can also

her sultry and sexy side. If you wish to appear at a Christmas

affix half a false eyelash on the top of the eye, from the

party dressed in vintage style, you need to match it with a

middle towards the outer corner of the eye, to add to the mysterious alluring feel.

vintage look.

Steps On Face 01先於全臉塗上珠光底

Chanel Base Lumière illuminating makeup base $63 (nordstrom.com)

Tom Ford shade & illuminate $94 (selfridges.com)

霜，賦予肌膚光澤感，同時輕微調整膚色。 First, apply a brightening makeup base all over the face to add brightness to the skin and slightly adjust the colour.

從太陽穴開始，以畫3 字的方式，將膏狀陰影掃於太陽穴、顴骨以下及臉頰輪廓位置。 From the temple, draw in a figure “3”, brush a shading cream on the temple, right beneath the checkbone and the cheek contour space.

Estee Lauder brow defining pencil $28 (esteelauder.ca)

Make Up For Ever artist palette volume 1 – nudes $49 (sephora.com)

Sisley So Intense eyeliner $85 (holtrenfrew.com)

然後疊塗上透薄帶少許光澤的粉底液。 Next, brush on several layers of a shimmering foundation. Make Up For Ever artist palette volume 1 – nudes $49 (sephora.com)

Guerlain Parure gold radian foundation $92 (selfridges.com)

On Brows

On Face

用深啡色眉筆畫眉，畫出較有彎度的眉形，眉尾要較尖。 Using a dark brown brow pencil, draw in the brow, accentuating the arch and making the end thinner.

Urban Decay fast easy sexy instalure false lashes $20 (selfridges.com)

於眼窩內掃上淡膚光珠光眼影，均勻眼皮顏色。 On the eyelid, brush on a light shimmering eyeshadow to even out the colour.

以黑色眼線液畫一條粗眼線，畫到眼尾向上向後拉長。 Using a black liquid eyeliner, draw a thick eye line, slightly lengthening past the outer corner of the eye, and moving slightly upwards at the outer corner. 在眼尾眼窩位置向前掃上淡灰色眼影，加深眼窩。 On the eyelid near the outer corner, brush on a light grey eyeshadow, moving towards the middle of the eye to make the eyelid look deeper.

於下眼頭掃上珠光白色眼影。 On the inner corner of the eye, brush on a shimmering white eyeshadow.

YSL couture mono eyeshadow #14 Gala $42 (nordstrom.com)

On Cheeks

由顴骨開始，斜斜地向蘋果肌掃上珊瑚橙色胭脂。 Starting from the cheekbone, brush a coral orange-coloured rouge on the apple of the cheek, brushing diagonally upwards.

Sisley Phyto-Blush Eclat blush powder duo #5 pinky coral $100 (holtrenfrew.com)

On Lips

Gucci lip sleek contouring lip pencil #060 iconic red $46 (saksfifthavenue.com)

為了增強眼尾上揚的感覺，可於眼中至眼尾貼上纖長的啡色假睫毛。 To accentuate the feeling of movement upwards at the corner of the eye, you can affix a NARS Audacious brown false eyelash lipstick #Rita $39 with long lashes (sephora.com) going from the middle of the eye to the outer corner.

先用唇筆勾勒唇形，再填滿雙唇打底。 First, use a lip pencil to draw the outline of the lips. Then draw in both lips to form a base colour.

再於雙唇塗上紅色唇膏。 Follow with a red lipstick on both lips.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Makeup

Alexandre Zouari lace hair piece $TBD

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

仿如暈開黑色而成的煙燻眼妝，也是復古妝容的經典之一，追隨今年秋冬大玩唇色的潮流，塗上深酒紅色唇膏，即可引領出歌德式妝感，別具神秘誘人魅力。

VaMpy BlaCkBeRRy

Steps On Eyes

於眼窩內掃上淡膚色眼影。 Brush a light nude eyeshadow on the eyelid.

疊掃上黑色眼影，向上慢慢暈開。 Brush on several layers of black eyeshadow, smudging slowly upwards. Shu Uemura pressed eye shadow refill #m black 990 $19 mono custom case $9 (shuuemura.ca)

Urban Decay Naked Smoky palette $64 (sephora.com)

Tom Form eye colour duo #ripe plum $77 (selfridges. com)

在雙眼皮掃上深啡色眼影，慢慢用掃向上掃開，再於眼尾呈倒C字型掃開。 On the double fold of the eye, brush on a dark brown eyeshadow, brushing upwards slowly. Make an upside down “C” with the brush at the outer corner of the eye.

MAC eye shadow #cork $19 (maccosmetics. com)

緊貼睫毛根部，用黑色眼線筆畫一條粗眼線。 Using a black eyeliner pencil, draw a thick eye line right at the base of the lashes.

season sees many different lip colours in vogue. A deep burgundy lip colour brings out a Goth look, and is especially mysterious and enticing.

再於眼球突起處掃多一次啞致啡色眼影，營造柔和的效果。 On the raised part of the eyelid, brush on another layer of matte brown shadow to create a soft look.

再用較闊而扁平的眼影掃，掃上啞致的啡色眼影，再掃上黑色睫毛膏。 You can use a wider and flatter eyeshadow brush to apply the matte brown eyeshadow, and then brush on a black mascara. MAC eye shadow #cork $19 (maccosmetics. com) Dior Diorshow Mascara #098 Black $34 (holtrenfrew.com)

用黑色膏狀眼線畫下內眼線。 Using a cream eyeshadow, draw in the inner eye line.

Make Up For Ever Aqua Black waterproof cream eye shadow $28 (sephora.com)

Urban Decay Naked 24/7 Glide-On double-ended eye pencil #Naked 2 $19 (sephora.com)

在眼球突起處掃上啞致啡色眼影。 On the raised part of the eyelid, brush on a matte brown eyeshadow.

MAC eye shadow #cork $19 (maccosmetics. com)

The smokey eye look, made with a smudged black colour, is another vintage classic. This Autumn-Winter

On Cheeks

於臉頰掃上淡粉紅色胭脂。 Brush a light pink rouge on the cheek.

Shu Uemura x Maison Kitsuné indigo eye and cheek palette $85 (shuuemura.ca)

Shu Uemura pressed eye shadow refill #m black 990 $19 mono custom case $9 (shuuemura.ca)

疊掃上黑色眼影。 Brush on several layers of black eyeshadow.

On Lips

雙唇則可塗上深酒紅色唇膏。 For the lips, you can apply a deep burgundy lipstick.

Urban Decay Revolution lipstick #Shame $26 (sephora.com)

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Beauty Talk

掃出美顏

CharloTTe TilBury Brushing up

用「down to earth」去形容英國makeup guru

The term “down to earth” is certainly apropos when describing British makeup guru

Charlotte Tilbury，實在最貼切不過！她言行風

Charlotte Tilbury. She is full of humour and charm, calling everyone “darling” and making

趣幽默，跟她對話時，經常以darling來稱呼你，

people feel immediately at ease. She has worked with numerous movie stars, models,

給人感覺很親切。她與無數大名鼎鼎的明星、模

fashion designers and photographers, such as Kate Moss, Penelope Cruz, Giselle, Marc

特兒、時裝設計師和攝影師合作過，例如Tom

Jacobs and Tom Ford. All of them praise her professional skills.This highly sought-after

Ford、Kate Moss、Marc Jacobs、Penelope

artist — rumours have it that Moss and Caitlyn Jenner fought over her at one point —

Cruz和Giselle等，對她的專業技術都讚不絕口。

introduced her own makeup label in the United Kingdom two years ago. The brand’s

這位灸手可熱的名人化妝師（早前有八卦消息

release immediately started a shopping frenzy among cosmetic-crazed women.

說她被Kate Moss和Caitlyn Jenner爭奪），兩年前於英國推出了她的自家彩妝品牌，此後就掀起了

This year, Charlotte Tilbury™ makeup arrived in Canada, with Tillbury flying to

世界各地愛美女士的搶購熱潮，今年，Charlotte

Vancouver and Toronto to attend product releases at Holt Renfrew stores. EliteGen

Tilbury彩妝產品正式登陸加拿大。

naturally took the opportunity to interview her.

早前，Charlotte親身飛抵溫哥華及多倫多 Holt Renfrew出席品牌發布會，《EliteGen》當

As a makeup artist with many years of experience, Tillbury believes her most

然把握機會，跟她做了一個訪問。Charlotte當

memorable work was the Castaway Kate pictorial she did with Moss, which appeared

了多年化妝師，令她印象最深刻的是2002年與

in the British version of Vogue magazine in 2002. “I created a bronze makeup look for

Kate Moss合作，為《Vogue》雜誌英國版拍攝的

her,” Tilbury said. “After the magazine came out, there was very strong support, and

Castaway Kate圖輯。「那次我為她塑造了一個

that even changed the entire trend for makeup.”She has worked with Moss countless

古銅妝，雜誌出版後取得很大的迴響，更改變了

times. Moss’s wedding makeup was her work, and Tilbury also did the cover celebrity’s text | PL

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

彩妝潮流。」她與Kate合作無數，甚至連Kate在婚

makeup for the U.S., French and British versions of Vogue — all within one month last

禮上的妝容，也是出自其手筆，也令她難忘不矣。

year. This is another treasured memory for Tillbury.

去年，她更於一個月內同時為美國、法國和英國版《Vogue》的封面人物化妝，對她來說，更是難能可

When asked what is the most common mistake women make in applying

貴的經驗。

makeup, Tillbury pointed to foundation. She said many woman do not know how to

當被問到女士最大的化妝錯誤是甚麼時，

choose and apply an appropriate foundation, resulting in various shades on the face

Charlotte指出，很多女士對於粉底的選擇和使用

and neck.

方法都不當，以致面部和頸部顏色不一致，這一點對於整體妝容十分重要。另外，她認為色彩和諧

Tillbury also thinks that colour harmony is not to be ignored. In particular, she

（color harmonies）是不可忽略的一環，尤其是我

advises women to avoid using yellow, blue and pink shades of eyeshadow at once.

們的靈魂之窗，切忌同一時間使用黃、藍及粉紅等

On the topic of colour harmony, Tillbury said she has definitely been heavily influenced

色調的眼影。說到色調和諧，Charlotte說她絕對

by her painter father.“I learned from his works the importance of harmonizing colours.

受到當畫家父親的影響。「我從他的畫作中學到色

Also, using the correct brush for the job also has a direct impact and result.”

調和諧的重要性，而且，工具掃也會直接影響作

As a result, she said all Tillbury makeup brushes are artist-inspired -- specially

品的效果。」因此，她稱其品牌的化妝掃都是artist-

designed and handmade by experts in Europe – to make it easier for women to apply

inspired，經特別設計，並且由歐洲的專家人手製

their makeup.

造，有助女士上妝時更得心應手。 Charlotte自言，她的臉上從不缺睫毛膏及眼

Tillbury said she always wears mascara and liquid eyeliner, but does not always

線液，粉底反而沒多塗。問她如果流落荒島，只能

apply a foundation. When asked what one or two cosmetic items she would want to

帶一兩樣東西，她會想要帶甚麼，她不假思索地回

have with her if she found herself marooned on a deserted island, she replied without

答：「我一定要帶我的Magic Cream、眼線液和睫毛

hesitation: “I would definitely want my Magic Cream, liquid eyeliner and mascara.”

膏！」那麼化妝品以外呢？「那當然是我的老公和孩

Outside of makeup, what is important in Tillbury’s life? “My husband and children,

子啦！」真sweet！

of course!”

01•Brushes 各款特別設計的artist-inspired 化妝掃，由歐洲專家人手製造。 A variety of artist-inspired brushes, these are all handmade by European experts.

02•CHEEK TO CHIC Swish & Pop Blusher 03•Charlotte’ s Magic Cream 含兩種色調的胭脂。只需兩個步驟：取外圈的胭脂輕掃於顴屬於Charlotte個人多年的抗衰老護膚配方，蘊含玻璃骨上，中央的胭脂則可用於蘋果肌，就可輕鬆打造浪漫自然酸及花卉精華，能夠做到即時提升效果，驅走倦容。 Made using an anti-aging formula Tillbury 的氣息。 developed over many years, this cream is infused This two-toned blush needs to be applied in two steps. with hyaluronic acid and the essence of flowers. Lightly brush the outer ring’s colour on the cheekbone. The cream immediately brightens the skin and Then apply the inner colour on the apple of the cheek. This drives away the weary look. way, one can easily create a romantic and natural look.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Living

打造敞亮空間

Light and airy 01

Origins:

Feature:

屋主將位於Woodbine Beach，樓齡大約50年，室內面積約1,800平

由於多倫多的半獨立屋比較密集，大部分室內都有自

方呎的半獨立屋重新設計改建，為本來黑沉沉而且破舊的單位，帶來更

然光線不足的問題，而且普遍而傳統的半獨立屋室內間格

多陽光和空間感。設計師表示，屋主希望可以將原有的半獨立屋，改建

都以隔牆分成不同的細小空間，所以一般半獨立屋改建項

成一間具時尚空間感而且適合不同人居住的家，所以設計師於室內空間

目的焦點，都在增加屋內外的光線出入口。設計師表示，

規劃和如何採納更多自然光線方面下了不少功夫。

設計原則為盡量將自然光帶進屋內每一吋空間，將半獨立屋改建成為一個“spatial lightbox”(具空間感的燈箱)。即

設計師Andrew Sun表示，在展開任何項目前都會先了解屋主的各

使這半獨立屋每一面獨立牆都設有窗戶，不過因為位於長

種要求，例如每天的生活習慣、煮食習慣、是否好客、需要多少房間、

而狹窄的地段，加上屋於屋之間密度高，要有效地增加採

洗手間等，這樣才能透過各種細微的改建滿足屋主的要求。屋主希望將

光效果同時能夠維持屋內的私隱度，在設計和執行上構成

二樓改建成3睡房，2浴室，並把主層打造成一個多功能的開放式生活空

一定的難度。

間。

Since Toronto’s semi-detached homes tend to be spaced

This 50-year-old, 167-square-metre semi-detached house in Toronto’s

closely together, many suffer from a lack of natural light. They

Woodbine Beach is being redesigned and rebuilt to bring sunlight and space

also tend to have interior dividing walls to compartmentalize

to a dark and dilapidated unit. According to the designer, the owner wants it

the space. So, the reconstruction of most semis focuses on

transformed into a contemporary home -- more spacious and more versatile

adding points of entry for light.

“Before starting any project, it is important to understand the different

According to the designer, the design principle is to

needs of the owner,” the designer Andrew Sun explains. “For instance,

maximize light throughout the house, thus transforming it

what are the owner’s daily habits, cooking routines? Does he or she like to

into a “spatial lightbox.” Even though each exterior wall in

entertain? How many bedrooms, how many bathrooms are needed?

this house has a window, the fact that it is located on a long and narrow lot, with minimal property separating it from the

“Then, you can redesign to meet the needs of the owner. The owner wants to convert the second floor into three bedrooms and two bathrooms,

neighbouring house, makes it a real challenge – both in terms of design and execution

and also change the main floor into a multi-purpose, open living space.” text | Zoe Mak photo | Andrew(Angxuan) Sun from AtelierSUN

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Highlight: 為增加空間感和採光度，設計師除了選用最簡潔的白色系牆

floors of the house. In addition, each room has specially designed punch windows, positioned at various places on the walls. These punch windows add playful whimsy and allow the owner to view

身和木地板外，亦盡量減少屋內的隔牆，並於樓梯的頂層加建天

the outdoor scenery from differing vantage points. Additional light is

窗採光。另外還將樓梯及開放式廚房移至主層中間位置，增加空

captured, yet privacy is preserved.

間感之餘還開拓了更大的共用空間(common space)，讓屋主可以靈活地隨時改變室內擺設。設計師還貼心地利用glossy反光物料，讓位於室內中心的廚房更能將透進來的自然光反射至屋內每一個角落。不得不提的是，設計師為了進一步營造採納自然光效果，特別為重新設計的透空梯步樓梯選用了玻璃欄板，讓更多自然光可以投進屋內上下層；另外房間內加建設計特別而位置不一的小型 punch windows (穿空窗)，為室內增添玩味之餘，讓屋主透過這些設計獨特的窗戶欣賞到不一樣的室外景象，這樣既可增加採光度同時又可以保持個人私隱度。 To increase the sense of space and appearance of light, the

designer uses a simple white for the walls and the wood floors. In addition, a skylight has been added at the top of the stairs to bring in additional light. Further, the stairs are moved to the centre of the main floor to add visual space, as well as open up a larger common space. This gives the owner the flexibility to change the interior decorations spontaneously. The designer also uses glossy reflective material skilfully to allow the kitchen, which is located in the middle of the house, to take the incoming natural light and reflect it to every corner of the house. Also, the designer has opted for a see-through staircase with glass staircase walls to allow more natural light to enter both

01• 為增加光線感，地庫都選用了透空梯步樓梯和玻璃欄板。另外進出後花園的門亦選用玻璃大門加強屋內的自然透光度。 To add light, the basement utilizes a see-through staircase with glass staircase walls. Also, a glass door leads to the backyard, adding to the natural light inside the house. 02• 透空梯步樓梯和玻璃欄板，加上前後的全景大窗和二樓的天窗，完完全全將本身黑沉沉的半獨立屋，打造成一個光線內外交叉的spatial lightbox。 The see-through staircase and glass staircase wall, together with the large picture windows in the front and rear of the house and the second-floor skylight, transform the previously dark and gloomy semi-detached house into a spatial lightbox.

Cost: 整個設計改建項目連同人工物料大約$420,000。 Redesign and reconstruction, including labour and materials, cost approximately $420,000.

Designer: Andrew(Angxuan) Sun from AtelierSUN

03• 房間內的玩味punch windows讓屋內更添光感亦同時保留了應有的私隱度。 The playful punch windows in each room add interior light, while maintaining an appropriate level of privacy. 04• 整個設計都以白色和自然色系為主，用以加強自然光度和空間感。 The entire design is based on white and natural colours, to add light and a feeling of space. 05• 二樓的天窗加上玻璃欄板和扶手下的小燈，讓本身沒有窗戶的二樓梯間變得更光猛。 The second-floor skylight, coupled with the glass staircase walls and the small lights right beneath the bannisters, add a great deal of brightness to the stairwell.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Restaurant

樂・活卡加利

LIVING WELL IN CALGARY text | Kenson Ho & Mel Tobias

大廚Michel Nop專心炮製美食 Chef Michel Nop at work

卡加利是亞省人口最多而且佔地面積最大

Calgary is Alberta’s largest city, both in terms of

的城市。它最為人熟識的，除了曾主辦

population and geographic size. It’s known for

1988年冬季奧運會外，還包括當地的牛仔

its staging of 1988 Winter Olympics, the Calgary

節、鄰近班芙國家公園、優質的牛排、和

Stampede, its proximity to Banff National Park, high-

大量的就業機會。

quality steaks and job opportunities.

卡加利到處可見市內居民都喜迎於色，見到陌生人都

survey of 33 municipalities, released in April, asked residents: “Using a scale of

對33個城市的居民進行了訪問，讓他們對現時的整體生活

0 to 10, where 0 means ‘very dissatisfied’ and 10 means ‘very satisfied’, how

狀況以0至10來評分，0表示非常不滿，10表示非常滿意。

do you feel about your life as a whole right now?” Calgary placed 16th on that

結果卡加利排16位，而溫哥華則排最尾。

list – Vancouver, dead last.

我們亦在卡加利的Cowtown度過了一個周末，發現調查報告所言非虛，卡加利人的生活絕對十分滿足。

Kensington Riverside Inn – Relais & Chateaux旗下酒店選擇酒店住宿絕不是問題，Relais & Chateaux旗下的

The residents look happy, smile a lot at strangers. A Statistics Canada

充滿笑容。加拿大統計局於四月份公佈了一項調查，他們

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Our observations during a weekend visit to Cowtown bear out those findings. Calgarians are a contented lot.

KENSINGTON RIVERSIDE INN – A RELAIS & CHATEAUX PROPERTY Where to stay was not a problem. We simply shortlisted hotels belonging

Kensington Riverside Inn，鄰近市中心，擁有河畔景

to the Relais & Chateaux chain. Kensington Riverside Inn is close to

緻，毗鄰古雅波希米亞式的Kensington區更是一大賣

downtown, has a riverside view and its closeness to the quaint bohemian

點。這家精品酒店內更可找到不少加拿大當代藝術家

district of Kensington was an advantage. The inn/boutique hotel is decorated

的作品。

with pieces of contemporary Canadian art.

《星尚》會見了Kensington Riverside Inn的業務

EliteGen met with Fraser Abbott, Director of Business Development, and

發展總監Fraser Abbott及酒店總管(Innkeeper)Kerry

Kerry Wilson, Innkeeper of Kensington Riverside Inn. Abbott had this to say

Wilson。

about the world renowned hotel chain: “The history of the company is a story of innovation and a deep attachment to the finest traditions of the world of

Abbott先向我們介紹這舉世聞名的酒店集團的理

hotels and restaurants. It is the marriage between the world of the past and

念：「集團一直以來不斷創新，同時亦深受酒店及餐

the fearlessness of the new, which all members embody and recreate in their

飲業界最優秀的傳統影響，旗下所有酒店均旨在體現

hotels.

新舊融和的理念。目前集團擁有350間精緻的酒店和餐廳。他們注重細節，一絲不苛，結合了美麗、奢華

”There are now 350 charming hotels and gourmet restaurants in the family.

及生活藝術，讓顧客暫離家園時，亦可擁有完美舒適

They pay meticulous attention to detail and offer a delightful experience to

的住宿體驗。」

a world where beauty, luxury and the art of living combine to offer a perfect ambiance to our clients. It is a destination place to stay when away from

《星尚》然後好奇地向Kerry問到何謂Innkeeper，她的主要職責是什麼。這位來自沙省、舉止優雅的淑女，以燦爛的笑容回答：「Innkeeper包括多個工作範疇，如房務、洗衣女僕、必要時更要充當廚師甚至侍應等等。換句話說，我及我的團隊隨時準備就緒，為客人提供一切所需。我們只有19間客房，所以我們了解所有客人的需求，例如他們早上習慣在什麼時間喝咖啡。她表示，於Relaix & Chateau旗下酒店及餐廳住宿及用膳的客人，均是獨具慧眼、知識廣博而且對質素十分有要求：「這類不喜歡選擇大型酒店的客人，都選擇我們的酒店。他們要求個人化的服務，而我們的員工均深明待客之道並提供優質的客戶服務。 Kerry補充說：「我希望大家知道，我們並非大型酒店，在我們的酒店內，客人的房間就是他們的另一個家。由客人入住直至退房的一刻，我們都會竭盡所能滿足客人的需要。」《星尚》有幸獲邀在酒店的餐廳Chef’ s Table，享用了一頓豐盛的Taittinger香檳晚宴。晚宴由Taittinger 品牌大使Mikael Falkman，他在這個法國餐酒品牌工作超過15年。

Kensington Riverside Inn時尚舒適的套房 The modern and comfortable suites of Kensington Riverside Inn

home.” EliteGen then asked Wilson the meaning of “innkeeper” and to explain her duties and responsibilities. The charming and elegant lady, formerly from Saskatchewan, responded with a big smile. “It’s a short version for housekeeper, laundry maid, chef when necessary, even waitress. In other words, my team and myself are ready when somebody needs something. We only have 19 rooms, so we get to know the client’s requirements – like, for example, what time they want their coffee in the morning. Discerning, well-informed and quality-conscious travellers insist that they stay and dine in Relaix & Chateaux properties. “People who don’t want to stay in a big-box hotel stay with us. They want personalized service. It is not about volume, and our staff has a deep understanding of hospitality and customer service. I want people to know that we are not a huge, giant hotel, that their room is an extension of their home. We are attentive to the client’s needs, from the time they check in to when they check out.” EliteGen was invited to the Taittinger Champagne Dinner, held at the Inn’s acclaimed Chef’s Table. It was hosted by Taittinger brand ambassador Mikael Falkman, who has been with the French wine for more than 15 years.

舒適的酒店大堂，懸掛著很多獨特的名畫 The cozy lobby of the Inn, with a collection of exquisite art

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Restaurant

由Michel Nop主理的Chef’ s Table 晚宴由廚師Michel Nop主理，他是卡加利最出色的廚師之一。他的菜式以法國菜為靈感，並滲入一點亞洲風味，保留了傳統之餘卻充滿創意。 Chef Nop擁有中國/越南/柬埔寨血統，在法國巴黎出生及成長。他的父母經營一家亞洲餐廳，所以自少他便與烹飪結下不解之緣。他在法國完成正式的廚藝訓練及工作後，於十年前搬到卡加利，並努力於城中餐飲業界闖出名堂。當被問及如何形容他的美食風格時，Nop以充滿法國口音的英語回答：「我想應該是現代式的法國美食。我在材料中注入了一些亞洲元素，為菜式增添了樸實的風味，但絕不會蓋過原來的味道，要從中找到一個陰陽平衡的質量。我不相信混合菜(fusion)，因為菜式會變得混亂而沒有特色。你在意大利飯中有否嚐到紫菜的味道？還有在虹鱒魚中找到紫蘇

的影子嗎？這些食材佔的比重不多，但能為菜式生色不少。 Chef’ s Table只能容納46位客人，因為我們只有10張餐桌。這讓我和團隊可以為客人帶來符合口味的個人化菜餚，完全體現Relais & Chateaux的理念。」

CHEF’S TABLE WITH CHEF DE CUISINE MICHEL NOP Chef de Cuisine for of the dinner was Michel Nop, one of Calgary’s leading chefs. The fare was French-inspired with subtle Asian influences. The dishes were innovative and original. Chef Nop was born and raised in Paris, where his parents owned an Asian restaurant and exposed him to cooking at an early age. He is of Chinese/Vietnamese/Cambodian descent. After formal training and working in France, he moved to Calgary 10 years ago and worked hard to achieve his lofty place in the city’s culinary world. When asked how to label or describe his cuisine, Nop replied in English, with a charming French accent: “I’d say modern French food. Some Asian ingredients were added to give an earthy flavour to the dishes, but I make sure that it is not overpowering, that there’s a balance, a yin-and-yang quality. “I don’t believe in fusion because most of the time it becomes confusion. Did you taste the nori in your risotto, or the shiso in the steelhead trout?Nothing was overwhelming because it’s all complementary. Chef’s Table can only accommodate 46 guests because we only have 10 tables. This allows me and my team to personalize the dishes served, which is in keeping with the Relais & Chateaux philosophy.”

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

在Taittinger晚宴中，我們注意到在廚房團隊的

During the Taittinger dinner, we noticed the flawless, streamlined

合作天衣無縫。餐廳的燈光略暗，但廚房卻十分明

teamwork in the kitchen. The dining room was a bit dark, but the

亮。這讓廚房成為了舞台，為我們帶來一場精彩絕

kitchen was bright. It’s like “live” theatre, where the cooking process is

倫的表演。

the show and the cooking team the performers.

Taittinger晚宴的五道菜晚餐：

The five-course dinner (accompanying wines in parentheses):

第一道菜：鮮蝦意大利飯，配白露筍及白松露

First course: Spot Prawn Risotto, with braised white asparagus,

片 (配以Taittinger“Prelude”Grand Crus) 第二道菜：煙燻虹鱒魚，配白鯨扁豆，

shaved white truffles. (Taittinger “Prelude” Grand Crus) Second course: Steelhead Trout, with beluga lentils, shiso

紫蘇與紅菜頭、胡蘿蔔、茴香，蒔蘿汁(配以

with beets, carrot and fennel, dill emulsion. (Taittinger Comtes de

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de

Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2005)

Blancs 2005) 主菜：開心果脆皮小牛肉，配白豆茸、雞油菌蘑菇及芥末蔬菜 (配以Domaine Carneros by Taittinger : Estate Pinot Noir 2012) 芝士大會：廚師精選的手工芝士及果醬(配以 Taittinger Comtes de Champange Rose 2005) 甜點三重奏：蘋果和黑香豆馬卡龍，紅花焦糖布丁，香脆餅乾(配以Taittinger Nocture Sec Rosé

Main course: Pistachio Crusted Veal, purée of white bean, chanterelle mushrooms and mustard greens. (Domaine Carneros by Taittinger: Estate Pinot Noir 2012) Cheese course: Chef’s selection of artisan cheese and confiture. (Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2005) Dessert trio: Apple and tonka bean macaroon, saffron crème brûlée, biscuit rose de Reims. (Taittinger Nocture Sec Rosé NV “Disco”)

NV“Disco” ) It was an exceptional first evening in Calgary and it ended with 我們在卡加利度過了精彩的一晚，結束前，我們品嚐了最適合用來配甜點的香檳或飯後酒，亦被

an appropriate champagne for dessert or an after-dinner drink, also known as a Taittinger champagne for midnight.

Taittinger稱為午夜香檳。 It was a lovely start to our memorable trip to Calgary, a city with 晚宴為這個難忘的卡加利之旅揭開序幕，這個

much to offer and laden with unexpected surprises.

城市充滿了很多意想不到的驚喜。

01•Chef’ s Table的廚房，就像一個精彩的舞台

04•Taittinger晚宴第一道菜 – 鮮蝦意大利飯

02•Taittinger的品牌大使Mikael Falkman與酒店的員工

05•Taittinger晚宴第三道菜 – 開心果脆皮小牛肉

Chef’s Table kitchen – the show has begun (2nd from right) Mikael Falkman, a brand ambassador with Taittinger, with Kensington Riverside Inn staff

Taittinger dinner 1st course – Spot Prawn Risotto Taittinger dinner 3rd course – Pistachio Crusted Veal

03•Kensington Riverside Inn披上白雪外衣，別有一番風味。

The Kensington Riverside Inn in winter

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Taste

Brunch這個字是英文Breakfast(早餐)和Lunch(午餐)的合成，通常在周末或假日，人們較遲起床，於是將早餐與午餐合併，食一頓較豐富的午餐。以下是三個位於多倫多從豪華酒店到鄉村別墅式的Brunch餐廳好選擇。 As synonymous as holidays are to celebratory gatherings, so is the fascination Torontonians have with weekend brunches. The city is blessed with many excellent options, ranging from posh dining rooms in luxe hotels to a homey country cottage in the middle of the city. text | Renée S. Suen 孫詩敏

多倫多最佳Brunch

top brunches in ToronTo

01•EDULIS SCHIACCIATA Edulis的極薄schiacciata意大利薄餅，表面鋪滿蘋果、洋蔥、鼠尾草、新鮮的Monforte芝士和 za’ atar香料。 Edulis wafer-thin schiacciata, covered with a blanket of apples, onions, sage, fresh Monforte cheese and za’ atar spice. 02•EDULIS RABBIT Edulis的午餐主菜可能包括有炒兔肉配紅眼肉汁、薯仔和混入Dijon香醋的西洋菜沙律。 The main course at Edulis’ s lunch might include a fried rabbit with red-eye gravy, potato and watercress salad tossed in a Dijon vinaigrette.

01 03

03•EDULIS SALAD Edulis沙律有切碎的西芹、甜菜、小蘿蔔、紅蘿蔔、碎杏仁和Monforte羊奶芝士。 Chopped salad with celery, beets, radish, carrots, crumbled almonds and Monforte feta at Edulis. 04•EDULIS CAKE 一塊淋上美妙核桃太妃糖和焦糖醬的南瓜蛋糕。 A slice of butternut squash roll cake with walnut toffee and caramel sauce rounds out a lavish meal at Edulis.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

滿和

特殊體驗：Edulis的星期日午餐這是多倫多其中一間最為人喜愛的餐廳，店主是Michael Caballo 和Tobey Nemeth的夫妻檔。餐廳佈置精巧舒適，讓客人好像去了巴斯克的郊外，完美地配上格子圖案餐巾和西班牙瓷磚，和大量排列整齊的炊具。雖然餐廳提供菜式非凡的晚餐，但他們實惠的周日午餐更不可錯過。Michael 的廚藝出眾，而餐廳從農場直接購入的食物更是無可挑剔。除了那名貴的黑松露和來自法國勃艮第(Burgundy)的三層軟滑綿細的布里亞‧薩瓦蘭乳酪(BrillatSavarin cheese)之外，餐廳的所有食物都是從幾個區內供應商供應的食材烹調而成。這個節奏休閑的家庭式盛宴由一連串的頭盆開始，最先是滿籃子新鮮出爐的派克屋餐包(Parker House rolls) ，然後是拌了南瓜子酪醬的甜菜頭，或是切成薄片的甜菜頭放在色彩繽紛的冬日沙律上，配以合桃碎、Monforte羊乳酪和新鮮香草。主菜可以選擇芥末醬St. Canut 火腿、鴨腸(butifarra)配蘋果酒煮洋蔥及釀源自加拿大品種的Chantecler雞；或是鄉村式炒兔肉配紅眼肉汁。在明媚陽光照耀餐廳的中午時份，享用侍應送來一大片淋上美妙焦糖醬的南瓜蛋糕，又或者巴巴蘭姆酒海綿蛋糕(baba au rhum)、鮮藍梅蛋糕或自家製柑橘類餡餅，可謂人生樂事。與Michael齊名的廚師Tobey，不停地將半價的酒(只限周日)給客人添得滿滿。這真是愛酒之人的夢想成真。而不沾酒的食客就可飲用以時令水果炮製的飲品，如梅爾檸檬加蜜糖，或用康科德葡萄製的梳打水。

Special Experience: Edulis Sunday Lunch One of the city’s most loved dining rooms is also one of the most hospitable. The husband-and-wife team of Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth offer up this cozy little King West gem. It’s like a trip to the Basque countryside, complete with gingham napkins, painted Spanish tiles and plenty of Le Creuset cookware lined neatly around EDULIS AMUSE 當你享用Edulis的周日定價午餐時，可以選雞肝慕絲多士及香醋醃鯡魚卷作餐前點心。 Chicken liver mousse toasts and herring rollmops might be the starting amuse bouche when you sit down to Edulis’ s prix-fixe Sunday lunch.

a e

unfussy barn-to-table dishes. Everything is made in-house, using ingredients sourced riches of black truffles that often grace the menu, or are sandwiched between layers of creamy-soft Brillat-Savarin, a triple cream cheese from Burgundy. The leisurely paced, family-style feast starts with a flight of appetizers and a

e d

basket brimming with warm-from-the-oven Parker House rolls. Beets get tossed in a pumpkin seed-buttermilk dressing, or are thinly sliced into a colourful chopped winter salad with crumbled walnuts, Monforte feta and fresh herbs. The prix-fixe meal

蘿

。 ut h

Although the restaurant serves an exceptionally tasty menu at dinner, their valuedriven Sunday lunches should not be missed. Caballo’s cooking shines in Edulis’s from a handful of regional suppliers – e, 12-1:30verything, that is, except for the

肉

h, at

the room.

continues with either St. Canut Ham in a mustard sauce, duck butifarra (sausage) with Edulis Restaurant 多倫多 169 Niagara St., 416-703-4222, edulisrestaurant.com 星期日午餐每位40元，所有樽裝酒半價。另加40元可享用兩人份量的80克布里亞‧薩瓦蘭乳酪配松露。 169 Niagara St., Toronto, 416-703-4222, edulisrestaurant.com. Sundays, noon-1:30 p.m.; $40/pp; all bottled wines available at half-price; 80-gram Brillant-Savarin cheese with truffles for two, $40 supplement.

cider-braised onions, stuffed Chantecler chicken, or fried country rabbit with a redeyed gravy. Just as the mid-afternoon sunlight’s warmth starts to fill the bright space, a generous slice of butternut squash roll cake, cloaked in a marvellous caramel sauce, arrives … or a boozy wedge of spongy baba au rum, fresh blueberry trifle, or homemade citrus tart. An equally celebrated chef, Nemeth keeps glasses filled with half-priced bottles of wine (Sundays only). It’s an oenophile’s dream come true. Teetotalers can enjoy the changing list of seasonal fruit sodas, like Meyer lemon with honey or Concord grape.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Taste

05•TAVOOS FEAST Tavoos供應豐盛的伊朗早餐，包括Kalleh Pacheh(燉羊頭和羊蹄)、Haleem(小麥漿果粥)及DiziSangi(石鍋燉羊肉)。 Tavoos offers a number of hearty Iranian breakfast dishes, including the Kalleh Pacheh (sheep’s head and hooves stew), Haleem (wheat berry porridge) and Dizi Sangi (a stone pot lamb stew).

只供應brunch：Takht-e Tavoos Takht-e Tavoos的波斯語是指波斯王國的孔雀王寶座，這是

06•TAVOOS KALLEH Tavoos的Kalleh Pacheh是波斯佳餚，以羊頭及羊蹄製成，配以薄餅及波斯茶(15.95元)。 The Kalleh Pacheh is a Persian delicacy made of sheep’s head and hooves and comes with flatbread and Persian chai ($15.95) at Tavoos.

Brunch-Only: Takht-e Tavoos Persian for the Peacock Throne, this daytime-only restaurant’s

一間只在白天營業，專攻brunch和其他伊朗美食佳餚的餐廳。餐

focus is strictly on brunch and other Iranian delicacies. The room is

廳裝修色調溫暖和充滿陽光，擺放很多有豐富圖案的陶器，配以

warm and sunny, rich with patterned pottery, coloured tiles and woven

彩色的瓷磚和紡織品，與菜單上並不老套和美味的菜餚十分匹配。

textiles – a match to the non-stereotypic and flavourful dishes found on its menu.

你可以由最受歡迎的波斯前菜Kashk-e Badenjann開始。它是炒茄子蓉，配以放滿波斯乳漿、焦糖洋蔥及核桃粉的薄荷醬。又

To start, perhaps heaping piles of Kashk-e Badenjann – a

或者可以選擇他們的早餐拼盤，在波菜上放上兩隻太陽蛋、成熟

voluptuous sautéed and mashed eggplant with mint dip that’s topped

的哈羅米芝士(halloumi cheese)、牛油炒棗和核桃或薯仔，配以

with creamy Persian whey, sweet and leathery caramelized onions

烤餅及一杯波斯茶。同時可以嚐一碗混和酥油、糖和香料，配以

and ground walnuts? Or, how about their breakfast platters, where a

碎羊肉的濃濃小麥漿果粥，香味濃郁。

pair of sunnyside-up eggs are served over spinach, firm and squeaky halloumi cheese, butter sautéed dates and walnuts, or potatoes, and

這裡的招牌菜Kalleh Pachen，是一道以羊頭和羊蹄製成的美

comes with toasted flatbread and a glass of Persian chai. A thick

食，配上醃蒜，同時值得一提的是DiziSangi (Dizi是將肉放在石鍋

wheat berry porridge (Haleem), studded with pounded lamb, melted

內)，它用上4小時慢火燉，由兩部分組成：以蕃茄和洋蔥為主的

butter and a blend of sugar and spices, is reminiscent of taro mash,

濃湯，燉至腍嫩的羊腿、羊排、鷹咀豆、白豆及薯仔，吃前應該

savoury in flavour.

先將所有材料倒入石鍋內。淺嚐一口美味的濃湯，咬一口沾滿汁的烤餅，又或者索性用烤餅舀起肉和豆沙大快朵頤。這道菜沒有什麼進食規則，總之是隨心所欲，盡情享用便是。

The kitchen’s Kalleh Pachen, a delicacy made from sheep’s head and hooves, is served with pickled garlic, while the noteworthy Dizi Sangi (Dizi is for the stone pot the meat comes in) is a full-bodied,

Takht-e Tavoos

four-hour, slow-cooked stew that comes in two parts: a tomato- and

地址在1120 College St., 647-352-7322, pomegranaterestaurant.ca/tavoos 營業時間：星期三至星期日上午10時至下午3 時。周末brunch不設訂位。主餐由10.95元至 15.95元。

onion–based broth, and the braised-until-tender lamb shank, lamb

1120 College St., 647-352-7322, pomegranaterestaurant.ca/tavoos Hours: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. (closed Mon-Tue). No reservations taken for weekend brunch. Mains, $10.95-$15.95.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

rib, chickpeas, white beans, and potatoes that’s supposed to be pounded in the Dizi before eating. Sip and savour the soup, soak the fluffy flatbread in the liquid, or use it to scoop up the mashed meat and bean paste. There is no rule on how to enjoy this delicious and interactive course.

提升標準：Buca Yorkville

Elevated Standards: Buca Yorkville

這家餐廳新推出了不一般的brunch菜單。考慮一下食farinata

Newly launched, this coastal-focused restaurant’s a la carte

取代雞蛋和煎餅，它是一種傳統的熱那亞鷹嘴豆薄餅，上面放上

brunch is anything but ordinary. Instead of eggs and pancakes,

賣相完美的煎蛋、意大利stracchino芝士及炒甜椒。將你的卡布其

consider the farinata – a thin traditional Genovese chickpea

諾咖啡升級，加入醇厚香甜的水牛牛奶；或者用奶、蜜糖加上濃

crepe, topped with a perfectly fried egg, stracchino cheese and

咖啡混合而成的caffèmiele。

peperonata (sautéed bell peppers). Upgrade your cappuccino with lush and sweet buffalo milk, or indulge in the caffè miele,

你可以選擇酥炸牛仔肉腸釀橄欖，或者新鮮熱辣的nodini(麵

made with espresso, milk and honey.

包粒)、海鮮薄餅和意大利麵，還有60元一客的兩人份量意大利燴飯，伴以Bella Lodi芝士。對於那些喜愛海鮮的人來說，有三隻淋

Choose from small bites like crisp olives stuffed with veal

上鱒魚魚子醬的加斯佩活扇貝，或原條在桌邊切割的生海鱸魚供

sausage, or their popular warm nodini (bread knots), seafood-

選擇。

dressed pizzas and pastas, including a $60 risotto for two that’s finished tableside with Bella Lodi (black parmesan) cheese.

記得還要留肚吃糕點甜品，由像寶石般的糕點拼盤(足夠一個

For those who appreciate seafood, there’s a trio of live Gaspé

小家庭共享)，到滾熱辣的香炸一口酥(castagnole) 這款灌滿牛奶

scallops, topped with trout caviar, or the show-stopping whole

焦糖的意大利小甜圈等甜品供選擇。

raw branzino (European sea bass) carved tableside.

Buca Osteria & Bar

Save room for the jewel-like platter of daily pastries

53 Scollard St., 416-962-2822, buca.ca/yorkville 星期日上午10時30分至下午3時。主菜價錢由17元至60元。

(with enough to share with a small family), or the piping-hot

53 Scollard St., 416-962-2822, buca.ca/yorkville. Sundays, 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; mains, $17-$60.

crema filling.

castagnole, mini Italian doughnuts that ooze a dulce de leche

07•BUCA DONUT Buca的香炸一口酥(castagnole)是一款灌滿牛奶焦糖的意大利小甜圈(9元)，可以再上一杯奇妙的蜂蜜濃咖啡(6.2元)。 An order of Buca’s castagnole, mini Italian doughnuts filled with dulce de leche crema ($9) goes wonderfully with a tumbler of their caffè miele ($6.2). 08•BUCA SCALLOP Buca的扇貝是三隻淋上鱒魚魚子醬、酸奶和煙生薑的活加斯佩扇貝，每客26元。 Buca’s capesante features a trip of raw live Gaspé scallops topped with yogurt, smoked ginger and trout caviar $26.

07 09

09•BUCA FARINATA Buca的Farinata是一種熱那亞的傳統鷹嘴豆薄餅，上面鋪上甜椒、 stracchino芝士及煎蛋，每客17元。 The farinata at Buca is a traditional Genovese chickpea crepe that’s topped with peperonata, stracchino cheese and a fried egg $17.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Wine not

左起：Bentley銷售經理Roberto Garcia、Penfolds首席釀酒師Peter Gago、《NUVO Magazine》編輯 Claudia Cusano及Penfolds品牌大使DLynn Proctor。 (From left): Bentley sales manager Roberto Garcia, Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago, Nuvo Magazine editor Claudia Cusano and Penfolds brand ambassador DLynn Proctor. (Picture: Milos Tosic)

澳洲紅酒之最

Penfolds GranGe AustrAliA’s most revered tipple

《EliteGen》應邀出席了由Penfolds酒莊與《NUVO

EliteGen attended the VIP wine-tasting event

Magazine》合辦，於Bentley Vancouver舉行

jointly staged at Bentley Vancouver by Penfolds

的VIP品酒會。由Penfolds首席釀酒師Peter

and NUVO Magazine. Penfolds’s chief winemaker

Gago主持，帶來精選佳釀：包括2012 Bin 707

Peter Gago presented select vintages, including

Cabernet Sauvignon、2012 BIN 389 Cabernet

2012 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 BIN

Shiraz、2012 RWT Rarossa Valley Shiraz 及獲

389 Cabernet Shiraz, 2012 RWT Rarossa Valley

酒莊最高評價的2011 Grange。

Shiraz and its most highly commended 2011 Grange. text | Andrew Lai, PL photo | Milos Tosic

100

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

法國、意大利出品的紅酒，早已風行多個世紀。後起之秀的「新世界」產地，其實早已不能再用「新」來形容。當中，澳洲的釀酒技術和葡萄種植廣受認同，加上當地陽光充沛，氣候乾旱，葡萄因此特別成熟，果糖也高，所以澳洲紅酒近年迅速崛起。 Penfolds品牌由早在1844年由英國移民至南澳洲的 Dr. Christoper Rawson Penfold創立，在當地被譽為是 Heritage Icon。其出品的紅酒，曾是第一家非法國佳釀於諾貝爾獎晚宴 (Nobel Prize Banquet) 中選用。 “Grange”是Penfolds出品的最高系列，致志與傳統法國佳釀一較高下。自1951年試釀的Bin Number 1開始，今年已經是第63代。Peter Gago今次帶來的是2011 Grange，罕有地選用100% Shiraz提子，顏色比較沉實，略帶果香。當被問到哪一年的Grange最好時，Gago風趣地答:「那要問問自己最不願與別人分享是那一瓶了。」其後他補充：「只

Penfolds首席釀酒師Peter Gago談品酒之道。

有你自己才可以選最好的紅酒，因為自己的意見才是最重 Penfolds' chief winermaker, Peter Gago, shares his insight on wine appreciation. 要的。」在2013年，2008 Penfolds Grange同時被美國《Wine

France and Italy have been the indisputable wine-producing

Spectator》與《The Wine Advocate》賦予100滿分，獲得罕有的至

leaders for centuries, yet the so-called “New World” countries continue

高榮譽，令這個澳洲品牌近年聲名大噪。

to make their viticultural presence felt.

當晚盛會由Penfolds首席釀酒師Peter Gago主持，場地位

Among the “newcomers,” Australia has quickly taken the world by

於Bentley溫哥華陳列室，數十位獲邀來賓在Peter輕鬆幽默的

storm in recent years -- what with the country’s sunny and dry climate

導賞下，分別體驗了該酒莊數款不同年份的佳釀，包括2011

helping grapes mature quickly, and with a relatively high fructose

Grange、2012 Bin 707、2012 Bin 389、2012及2013 RWT

content. As well, Australia’s winemaking and viticultural techniques

Barossa Valley Shiraz，同時又品嘗了精緻美食及欣賞場內展示的

have come of age.

名車。

Penfolds was established in 1844 by Dr. Christoper Rawson

Penfolds創立於1844年，在澳洲釀酒史的初期就已經脫穎而

Penfold, who migrated to South Australia from Britain. The brand is

出。該酒莊有不同系列的紅酒，其Grange在1951年首次秘密裝

hailed as a Heritage Icon in Australia. Its red wine was the first non-

瓶，誕生後各年份釀造從未中斷，直至今天成為澳洲最經典的紅

French vintage on the menu of the Nobel Prize Banquet.

酒。

Grange is Penfolds’s top range vintage and a worthy match of any 歷史上僅有四位首席釀酒師曾掌舵Penfolds，他們分別是

traditional French wines. It has been through 63 generations since

Max Schubert、Don Ditter、John Duval，以及自2002年上任至

the experimental Bin Number 1 made in 1951. Peter Gago brought

今的Peter Gago。

with him the 2011 Grange for the event. It uses 100% Shiraz grapes, a break from tradition, hence a deeper colour and fruitier taste. When asked which vintage is the best of the Grange, Gago said tongue in cheek: “You have to ask yourself which bottle you don’t want to share with others.” And then he added: “The only person who gets to say what the best wine is, is you. The opinion that is important is yours.” Penfolds has been a sought-after label since the 2008 Penfolds Grange was scored in the top 100 by U.S. wine publications Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate in 2013. Chief winemaker Peter Gago entertained dozens of guests with his humorous discourse of the vintages of 2011 Grange, 2012 Bin 707, 2012 Bin 389 and the 2012 and 2013 RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz. The event, held at Bentley’s showroom in Vancouver, also satiated guests with great food in the company of stately automobiles. Established in 1844, Penfolds distinguished itself very early on in Australia’s winemaking history. Among its various red wine collections, the Grange has had a vintage every year since it was bottled in a well-guarded experiment in 1951. Today, it is arguably Australia’s most classic red wine. Penfolds has had four master winemakers in its history – Max Schubert, Don Ditter, John Duval and Peter Gago.

當晚大會還供應其他多款Penfolds佳釀供賓客隨意品嘗。 Various Penfolds vintages are presented for tasting at the event.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

101

Elite Life

位於G.H. Mumm 香檳酒廠的紅色風車，是該區的著名地標。 The red windmill at the house of G.H. Mumm Champagne is a famous landmark in the area.

愛上黃金汽泡! 法國香檳之都Reims 見證葡萄成熟時

BUBBLE UP!

From Vineyard to Bottle in reims, France 佳節將至，要狂歡盡興又怎能少了香檳

Celebrating this holiday season with champagne?

的份兒！今期《星尚》編輯葉子青就帶大

EliteGen editor Leslie Yip takes you on an insider tour of

家走入法國香檳之都Reims的釀酒廠，

some of the most renowned houses at harvest time in

親身見證葡萄成熟時。

Reims, the de facto capital of champagne. text | Leslie Yip photo | Leslie Yip , Veuve Cliquot , Piper-Heidsieck

102

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

葡萄成熟時法國葡萄產區Montagne-de-Reims的山上可謂熱鬧非常。收割葡萄的工人忙於穿插於葡萄園中，採摘時所發出的沙沙聲及疊起木箱的聲音響徹山頭，猶如慶祝收成而奏起的樂章。而香檳酒廠G.H. Mumm Champagne那座著名的紅風車則默默地守護著葡萄園。大伙兒雖然忙得不可開交，但鬧哄哄的瀰漫一片歡樂氣氛。那邊廂一名工人向我揮手問道：「你有沒有興趣嚐一嚐我們的 Chardonnay葡萄？今年是很好的年份！」 Mais oui! (法文意謂：好的) 他揮一揮剪刀，一大串葡萄便落入我的掌心。這串葡萄應該本來足以釀成一杯香檳！一般來說，一串葡萄約有75 至100顆葡萄，每串可釀製成一杯餐酒，換言之一瓶750毫升的餐酒則由 4串葡萄釀製而成。我品嚐的Chardonnay是唯一一種可以釀製香檳的白葡萄，其餘兩種可釀製香檳的葡萄分別是Pinot Noir及Pinot Meunier，兩者皆為黑葡萄。我試嚐一顆，其外皮充滿花香，汁液清甜，卻又帶著青蘋果酸。我一邊咀嚼著葡萄一邊想著，葡萄怎樣變成香檳呢？這個過程一定十分神奇。

Harvest time! The hills are alive in Montagne-de-Reims. Harvesters are darting in and out among the vines. The sound of harvest is a minuet of rustling leaves and stacking crates. The famous red windmill of the house of G.H. Mumm Champagne stands guard. Despite the hustle and bustle, there is a festive air. 根據法國的原產地法規，葡萄必須以人手收割。 Grapes are harvested by hand, according to appellation laws.

A harvester waves me over. “Would you like to taste some Chardonnay grapes? We have a very good year this year!” he offers. Mais oui! With a swift twist of his clippers, he drops a cluster into my palm. The whole bunch? That’s like a whole glass of champagne! Here’s some wine math: there are approximately 75 to 100 grapes per bunch, it takes one bunch to make a glass of wine. Thus, there are four bunches of grapes in a 750 ml bottle of wine. The Chardonnay I am tasting is the only allowable white varietal for making champagne. The other two varietals are Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, both black-skinned grapes. I put one into my mouth. The skin has a nice floral fragrance. The juice is refreshingly sweet, with a tang of green apple-like acidity. As I savour each piece of fruit, I think about the magical transformation from grapes to bubblies.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

103

Elite Life

壓柞葡萄釀製過程的第一步就是壓柞葡萄。我十分榮幸有機會在位於Verzenay的 Veuve Clicquot 酒廠內參觀過程。一桶桶的葡萄，會按品種及葡萄園分門別類，之後由人手倒進一個看似巨型木製浴缸的容器內。當容器注滿葡萄後，容器內的金屬板便會以液壓方式將葡萄柞成汁液。葡萄汁之後會經過百葉板到達收集糟，最後流入位於下一層的大型容器中存放。這種方法稱為籃子壓柞法 (basket press) ，設計沿用至今接近一千年仍歷久不衰。我發現壓柞機的周圍有甲蟲出沒，心想：「會否破壞香檳的品質？」大家可能對2001年安省出產的酒被甲蟲污染的事件仍記憶猶新，當時安省的葡萄園被超過一千萬隻甲蟲侵擾，結果令酒的味道變得苦澀而且帶有樹脂的味道。有品酒師認為一些帶有狗騷味及貓尿味的酒屬好酒，但甲蟲明顯沒有相同效果。葡萄壓柞專家Pascal Menetrier著我放心地說道：「只有幾隻甲蟲並無問題。事實上，牠們的出現證明了我們沒有使用殺蟲劑。」香檳業界正致力令釀製過程更環保，減少對地球造成破壞，讓我們在享用香檳時更安心自在。

我掌心的這一串葡萄，足以釀成一杯香檳。 The bunch of grapes in my hand is enough to make a glass of champagne!

01 01•Veuve Clicquot的葡萄壓柞中心忙得不可開交。這裡每年只於收成期間運作3星期。 The press centre at Veuve Clicquot is bustling with activity. It operates for only three weeks a year at harvest time.

02 03

02•一箱箱則收割的葡萄會被即時運送至壓柞中心，確保新鮮。 Crates of freshly-harvested grapes are transported immediately to the pressing centre to ensure maximum freshness. 03•甲蟲的出現不單寓意好運，更證明栽種葡萄的過程非常環保。 The presence of lady bugs is considered a sign of good luck and eco-friendly viniculture.

巨型酒桶由於釀製葡萄收割後最好是立即進行壓柞，因此大部分壓柞中心都設於葡萄園附近。而讓香檳進行發酵及陳年的酒莊總部，則設於離產區較遠的Reims及 Epernay，此舉可以撥出更多土壤種植葡萄。位於Reims的Piper-Heidsieck，中央位置的兩個巨型酒桶，絕對是參觀者的焦點所在。它們約12米高、直徑6米，像兩座巨型圓柱一樣。品牌大使 Dominique Cima Sander告訴我每桶內藏有50萬瓶香檳，加上其他酒桶的容量，生產量十分驚人。 Piper-Heidsieck每年平均生產5百萬瓶香檳，生產量算是中等。Moet & Chandon則傲視同儕，年生產量達2千6百萬瓶，而其他主要品牌年產量由1百萬至1千萬瓶不等。因此該區的釀製廠平均每年為全世界供應3億瓶香檳。

104

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

壓柞葡萄的力度必須輕柔，否則汁液會帶有外皮及葡萄核的苦澀味。 The grapes are pressed gently, so as not to extract bitter flavours from the skin and the seeds.

The press The first step is pressing. I am privileged to see how this is done at Veuve Clicquot’s pressing centre at Verzenay. Crates of freshly harvested grapes are divided by varietal and vineyard, then manually hauled into holding basins which look like giant wooden bathtubs. Once filled, metal plates are lowered hydraulically to gently press out the sweet nectar. The juice runs through the slats to a collecting ditch, eventually flowing into a holding tank one floor down for settling. This contraption is called the basket press. Its design hasn’t changed in nearly a thousand years. Some ladybugs are crawling around the perimeter of the press. Should it be a cause for concern? I remember the ladybug taint disaster for Ontario wines in 2001, when tens of millions of ladybugs infested vineyards, and the resulting wines tasted bitter and resiny – funny how sommeliers find wet dog and cat pee smells appealing, but not dead bugs. Press Master Pascal Menetrier listens to my recount and explained, “a few ladybugs do not a problem make. In fact, their presence shows our effort in sustainability is successful. No pesticides.” Indeed, champagne producers are moving towards eco-friendly practices, hoping to make our favourite drink a guilt-free pleasure.

04 04•紅色的包裝是PiperHeidsieck香檳的標記，其口感豐厚細膩而且充滿節慶的歡樂氣氛，因而備受愛戴。 The signature red packaging of Piper Heidsieck Champagne is beloved for its boldness and festivity. 05•Piper-Heidsieck壓柞中心的巨型酒桶內，盛載著相等於50萬瓶香檳的酒量。 The central vats in Piper Heidsieck’s press room hold half a million bottles worth of wine.

The vats Wine grapes are best pressed as soon as they are picked; hence, most press centres are situated near the vineyards. The maisons, where fermentation and cellaring take place, are located further away in the villages of Reims and Epernay, saving the best parcels of land for vine growing. The headquarters of Piper-Heidsieck in Reims is an architectural showpiece. Designed by architect Jacques Ferrier, it plays on geometric grids that give the impression of rising bubbles. The vat room exudes the same modernistic aesthetics, with organic woods juxtaposing with the numerous stainless steel vats. The two central cylinders really strike visitors with their magnificence. They are approximately 12 metres tall and six metres across, looking like two gigantic pillars in the centre of the facility. Brand ambassador Dominique Cima Sander asks me to guess how much champagne is in there. “Three thousand?” I venture. “Half a million bottles each,” is the response. Adding the capacity from the other vats, the production volume must be staggering. Piper-Heidsieck averages five million bottles annually, putting it in the median range. Moet & Chandon leads the pack at 26 million, while most major international brands range between one million and 10 million bottles. In total, the region churns out an average of 300 million bottles every year.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

105

Elite Life

01•優質的香檳會經過長期的陳年，令其產生輕盈的汽泡及富層次的獨特韻味。 Fine champagnes spend a lot of time cellaring in order to develop fine bubbles and complex flavours. 02•這些地底酒窖部分是古羅馬時期被棄置的採石場，現已被UNESCO定為世界文化遺產。 Some of these cellars are actually abandoned quarries from the ancient Roman times. They are now designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

03•香檳酒窖位於地底，除了慳位外，更可長期保持最理想的濕度的低溫。 Champagne cellars are located deeply underground for space efficiency, as well as to benefit from optimal humidity and a constant cool temperature.

世上最昂貴葡萄每年聖誕及新年期間，對香檳的需求量為全年最高。以美國為例，每年入口2千4百萬瓶香檳，當中四分之一於12月份售出。對於商家及投資者來說，香檳冉冉上升的汽泡寓意財源滾滾來。而對來一般人來說，開香檳時那清脆利落的開瓶聲，香檳較高的售價及獨特的形象，都令喜氣場合更熱鬧、更特別。為什麼香檳總偏向昂貴？有人質疑是純粹宣傳技倆，但事實是根據法國嚴格的原產地法規，只有極少數土地可以種植能釀製香檳的葡萄。物以罕為貴，在法國產區，每千克chardonnay葡萄售價7歐羅，對比美國加州的只賣3歐羅，法國南部的則只需2歐羅，而釀製一般白酒的更只需50仙，因而令香檳葡萄成為世界上最昂貴的葡萄。除了葡萄的售價外，釀製香檳的過程亦需要大量人手。每公頃葡萄園每年就需要工人工作380 至 420小時，還未計算葡萄收割，這個工序必須由人手進行。當收割後送往壓柞，然後進入大酒桶，接著便展開酒窖的工序。

酒窖當葡萄汁完成發酵成為still wine(不含氣泡的酒)後，必須進行第二次發酵從而產生獨有的汽泡。程序是先把still wine裝瓶，加入酵母及適量的糖，並蓋上啤酒蓋。待8至10星期後，把酒瓶平放讓其味道逐漸產生。這個階段的香檳會被存放於地底的白堊岩洞穴，這些岩洞由古羅馬人建造為採石建房之用。白堊岩就像海綿一樣有著吸濕的作用，而地底的深度長期保持低溫，適合香檳進行陳年。香檳會按其品種在此存放30個月至7年。經過漫長的陳年後，是時候「喚醒」香檳，這個步驟稱為riddling。工人會把酒瓶以45度傾斜的方式置於特製木架上，並每日90度角旋轉瓶身，直至瓶身倒轉為止。當發酵過程產生的沉澱物聚積到瓶頸，便可移除瓶蓋，而壓力會自然地把沉澱物及酒液強力噴出，最後便可為香檳裝上軟木塞。整個程序必須由熟練的工人進行而且要求長時間的專注，因而增加成本。

參觀後感無論參觀任何一間釀酒廠，最後一個環節都必定為試酒。當親身了解過由葡萄收割以至裝瓶的過程，令我明白到每一瓶香檳都投入了釀酒人員的心血及專業知識，不期然對香檳更為欣賞。如果你打算在佳節期間以香檳慶祝，不妨細意品嚐其輕盈的粒粒泡沫及芬芳的香氣。正如中國人的俗語所言：「粒粒皆辛勞。」

心水推介參觀香檳產區，當然要買些帶回家好好品嚐。加拿大海關的酒精免稅規定為最多1.5公升，相等於2瓶750毫升的酒。以下是我的心水推介。

What to bring home If you visit the Champagne region, you might want to bring home some bottles. Canada Customs stipulates a duty-free limit of 1.5 litres of wine, equivalent to two standard 750 ml bottles. Here are my recommendations.

106

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Piper-Heidsieck Rare Champagne 2002 這是Piper-Heidsieck的旗艦香檳，此酒只於好年份才會釀製，而且在加拿大並不常見。此香檳首次於1976出產，至今只釀製過8個批次。其稀有程度及質素可媲美 Cuvée Dom Pérignon及Cristal by Louis Roederer。瓶身飾以金絲，華麗非常。而品嚐此香檳前的傳統是將瓶身的裝飾拆下當皇冠帶在頭上，肯定能讓你的公主動心。 Veuve Cliquot limited editions Veuve Clicquot一系列特別包裝的香檳及其他周邊產品，在加拿大十分少見。2015年最矚目的便是郵箱形狀的香檳盒，盒上還有一支可拆除的小紅旗；而另一款由全鋁製成、行李箱形狀的香檳盒，更可當手袋用，實在令人難以抗拒！

The most expensive grapes in the world Demand for champagne peaks every year around Christmas time and New Year’s. To put things into perspective, the U.S. imports 24 million bottles of champagne per year, and a quarter of that is sold in the month of December. For businessmen and investors, rising bubbles symbolize rising fortunes. The popping of the cork is fun, and the relatively high price and exclusive image makes your celebration extra special. Why is champagne always expensive? Skeptics say it’s a marketing ploy, but the reality is that only a very limited amount of land can produce champagne under France’s strict appellation laws. Scarcity drives up prices. A kilogram of chardonnay grapes from the region costs seven euros, compared to the equivalent of three euros in California, two euros in southern France, and fifty euro cents for ordinary white wine, making champagne grapes the most expensive in the world. Besides the cost of the grapes, the making of champagne is very labour intensive. One hectare of vines requires 380 to 420 hours of labour annually, not counting the harvest, which must be done by hand. When all is picked, pressed and sent to the tanks, there is still work awaiting at the cellar.

品嚐香檳香檳必須儲存於攝氏10至12度，遠離陽光及異味。香檳最適宜享用的溫度是8至10度，所以不能冷卻至太冰凍。一般來說，將香檳放於加入冰塊及水的冰桶內20分鐘已經足夠。年份較久的陳年香檳除外，溫度可比一般高幾度。

Serving Champagne Champagne should be stored at 10-12 degrees Celsius, away from light and odours. The best serving temperature at the table is around 8-10 degrees, so it is chilled but not icy. Twenty minutes in a bucket filled with an ice-water mix should suffice. An exception should be made for older vintages, which should be served a few degrees warmer.

The cellar

racks that hold them initially at a 45-degree angle. Every day, the bottles are given a quarter turn until they are upside down. When all

After the juice is fermented into still wine, it has to undergo a

the sediment has settled in the neck of the bottle, the wine-maker can

second fermentation to produce the signature bubbles. This is done

disgorge and prepare for finally capping. The whole cellaring process

by bottling the still wine, adding yeast and a dosage of sugar, and

requires a lot of skilled hands and constant attention, adding to

capping it with a beer crown. After eight to ten weeks, the bottles are

production costs.

laid horizontally to allow flavours to develop.

Final thoughts

At this stage, the bottles are stored in deep underground chalk caves, created by ancient Romans quarrying stones for building. The chalk

No matter which champagne house you visit, your tour will most

acts like a sponge for humidity, and the underground depth maintains a

likely end with a tasting. After following its production from vineyard

constant cool temperature necessary for the maturity of the wine. There,

to bottle, I have a newfound appreciation for all the dedication and

they rest for 30 months to seven years, depending on its eventual style.

expertise that goes into each bottle. If you are going to celebrate this holiday season with champagne, take the time to admire its

When the time comes to “wake up” the wine, one must do so gradually. This is called riddling. The bottles are placed on special

Piper-Heidsieck Rare Champagne 2002

effervescence and savour its aroma. As the Chinese saying goes, each bubble is a labour of love.

This flagship wine from Piper-Heidsieck is made only in truly exceptional years and not widely available in Canada. Since its debut in 1976, there have been only eight releases. The rarity and quality puts it in the same class as Cuvée Dom Pérignon and Cristal by Louis Roederer. The bottle is opulently dressed in filigreed gold, and the customary practice is to tear out the decoration and wear it as a tiara. It’s sure to please that princess in your life. Veuve Cliquot limited editions Veuve Clicquot has a full-line of specially packaged bottles and other branded goodies seldom found in Canada. The star of the 2015 season is the mailbox with a moveable red flag, while the utility-chic aluminum zippered suitcase can be reused as a cool handbag. Hard to resist!

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

107

elite car

綠色的標誌和綠色的車牌顯示出與Cayenne其他型號不同之處。 The green logo and green licence plates are indications that this Cayenne model is different from the rest.

高性能省油王雙動能SUV

A Porsche cAyenne that is simply electrifying

每次我操控著保時捷Cayenne的方向盤時，總

Every time I get behind the wheel of a Porsche

會為我所駕駛的是運動型多用途車，而不是這個

Cayenne, I’m struck by the fact I’m driving a

著名德國汽車製造商出產的高性能跑車而感到驚

sport utility vehicle, not a high-performance

訝。怪不得Cayenne成為保時捷全球銷量最佳的

sports car that the German automaker is known

車系，佔其總銷售額的三分之一。

for. text, photo | Lorne Drury Metroland Media

108

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

保時捷這個名牌汽車在加拿大賣得火熱，截至9月底為止，今年共售出超過5,500部，較去年增加了32 %之多。銷量高的主要原因是Cayenne很受歡迎，今年差不多每

And while it is such a departure from the norm for Porsche, the Cayenne has become its global best-seller, now accounting for about one-third of all sales. As a brand, Porsche is red hot in Canada with year-to-date sales of more

個月都有新款式推出市場。雖然這有點誇張，不過2016年款

than 5,500 units, as of the end of September. That’s up a whopping 32 per

的熱門跨界運動型多用途車就有7個不同版本在加拿大市場推

cent over the previous year.

出。自福士汽車最近因排放醜聞而停止銷售保時捷、奥迪和福士的柴油車，Cayenne的柴油型號也撤出了市場。

A good chunk of those sales are due to the popularity of the Cayenne, which offers a different model for almost every month of the year. That’s a

我這次測試的是一款插電式油電混合動力的Cayenne S E雙動能車。

bit of an exaggeration, but there were seven different versions of the popular crossover SUV available in Canada for the 2016 model year. However, the diesel model was recently taken off the market after Volkswagen stopped

有些人認為Cayenne是市場上最好的跨界車，當你看

sales of Porsche, Audi and VW diesels due to the emissions scandal.

到有這麼多種引擎和功能讓消費者選擇時，你就不會與之爭辯。這也簡單解釋了為何這家跑車製造商會成為生產豪華跨界運動型多用途車的領導者。誰會料到插電式混合動力汽車能夠在保時捷的強勁跑車

Tested here is the Cayenne S E-Hybrid, a plug-in gas/electric hybrid vehicle. Some people consider the Cayenne the best crossover on the market

系列中穩坐一席？有趣的是，保時捷竟然是插電式革命的領

and it’s hard to argue otherwise when you consider the variety of engines and

導者，更甚者是在其車隊中，不單只有一款，而是有三款插

features available to consumers.

電式混合動力車。Cayenne S E是其高檔運動型多用途車系列中的首款插電式混合動力車。

That, in a nutshell, helps to explain how a sports car manufacturer has been able to become a leader in the luxury crossover SUV segment.

有人說保時捷將其跑車元素植入它的所有車中，不管是跑車還是運動型多用途車，在試駕完Cayenne S E混合動力車後，我發現它每一部分都如其它款的Cayenne般充滿動感。

Who would expect to see a PHEV (plug-in hybrid electric vehicle) in the Porsche stable with its high-powered lineup of the sports cars? Not many people would, but interestingly, Porsche is a leader of the plug-in revolution

這車配備3公升的V6增壓引擎輔以一台電動馬達，兩者結合產生416匹馬力及435磅/呎扭距。電能儲存在容量為10.8

with not one, but three PHEVs in its fleet. The Cayenne S E-Hybrid is the first PHEV in the premium SUV segment.

千瓦的鋰離子電池內。 It’s been said that Porsche builds sportiness into all its vehicles, whether 這款配備可輸出97匹馬力強勁電動馬達的插電式車，將取代原來只有45匹馬力即將停產的Cayenne S混合動力車。

it’s a sports car or SUV. After driving the Cayenne S E-Hybrid, it is every bit as sporty as the other Cayenne models, but without the raw power that some have at the touch of the throttle.

當你聽到混合動能這個名詞時，第一個印象可能是沉重緩慢，但這裡卻大不相同。根據廠方提供的資料，Cayenne

The power here comes from a supercharged 3.0-litre V6 engine running

S E混合動力像跑車般，從靜止狀態加速至時速100公里只需

in concert with an electric motor, combining to produce 416 horsepower and

5.9秒。在加拿大汽車新聞從業員協會年度最佳汽車的測試

435 lb/ft of torque.

保時捷的車廂內飾越來越豪華，Cayenne 也不例外。 Porsche interiors are getting more posh all the time and the Cayenne is no exception.

Cayenne S E配備充電插口。 The Cayenne S E-Hybrid comes with this charging port.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

109

Elite Car

Cayenne S E混合動力車配備3公升的V6增壓引擎，輔以一台電動馬達，提供416匹馬力及435磅/呎扭距。 Power for the Cayenne S E-Hybrid comes from a supercharged 3.0-litre V6 engine running in concert with an electric motor that combine to produce 416 hp and 435 lb/ft of torque.

這個五個儀表的套裝為駕駛者提供很多資訊。 This five-gauge package provides the driver with lots of information.

時鐘安裝在中控台之上，可選擇以長短針或數字顯示。 The clock that sits atop the dash and above the centre stack gives both analog and digital readings.

中，錄得其由靜止狀態加速至100公里為6秒，比廠方

Energy is stored in a lithium-ion battery with a capacity of 10.8 kWh.

的資料略為慢了一點點，而由時速80公里加速至120

This plug-in model replaces the outgoing Cayenne S Hybrid and comes with a

公里則需3.9秒。以這輛重2,350公斤的車來說，可謂

more powerful electric motor, producing 97 horsepower, up from 45.

已經不錯了。 When you hear the word hybrid, your first thought might be slow and plodding, 由時速100公里將車煞停的距離為44.2公尺，其導

but that’s far from the case here. The Cayenne S E-Hybrid does the 0-100 km/h

入煞車動能回收系統，將煞車時多餘的動能轉換為電

sprint in a sports car-like time of 5.9 seconds, according to the manufacturer. In

能，為電池充電。

recent AJAC Car of the Year testing, the Cayenne S E-Hybrid was a touch slower, clocking in at 6.0 seconds for 0-100 km/h and 3.9 seconds for 80-120 km/h -- not

單用電油的耗油量為11.3/9.8/10.6公升/100公里

too shabby when you consider we’re talking about a 2,350-kilogram vehicle.

城市/高速公路/綜合，若電油與電力混合使用，則耗油量為5/5/5.0公升/100公里。

Braking distance from 100 km/h to 0 is 44.2 metres as regenerative braking kicks in to help replenish the battery.

當車充滿電後，以純電動模式可行走22公里。若以標準的充電器充電，約需3-4小時可充滿，如果使用 7.2千瓦的充電器，則時間可減半。

Fuel economy is rated at 11.3/9.8/10.6 L/100 km city/highway/combined in gasoline mode and 5/5/5.0 Le/100 km in electric mode.

所有型號皆配備有8速手自一體變速箱及全輪驅

At full charge, the vehicle will run in pure electric mode for up to 22 kilometres.

動。這個系統是先將動力傳輸到後輪，當有需要時，

Using a standard charger, you can reach full charge in three to four hours, but that

動力會再傳至前輪。

can be halved with a 7.2-kilowatt charger.

過去，保時捷的內飾從未做到像奧迪或富豪般的

All models come with an eight-speed Tiptronic S automatic transmission and all-

級數，但現在這情況已改變，大家的距離縮窄了，特

wheel drive. In this system, power is transferred to the rear wheels and then routed

別在Cayenne的車系。在這亮麗、豪華

to the front wheels as needed.

的車廂內，用上了很多手感柔軟的物料。

In the past, Porsche interiors were never in Audi or Volvo’s class, but times are changing and the gap is narrowing, 舒適的前排電熱座椅，配有八向

電動調節功能，可以傾斜/伸縮的方向

particularly in the Cayenne. This is an attractive, luxurious cabin with lots of soft-touch materials.

盤也是電熱的。假如你曾見過飛機駕駛艙內的機師座椅，Cayenne的司機座椅會給你有差中控台有各種各樣的開關按鈕，駕駛者有如身處飛機駕駛艙的感覺。 Drivers will feel like they’re in the cockpit of an airplane with the variety of buttons and switches found on the centre stack.

110

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

Cayenne車尾有跑車型的外觀。 The Cayenne has an athletic look from the rear.

行李箱在後座座椅直立時容量為 580公升。 Luggage capacity with the rear seats upright is 580 litres.

Cayenne S E混合動力車的後座腳部空間在中型車來說屬於一般水平。 Rear-seat legroom in the Cayenne S E-Hybrid is average for a mid-size model.

巨大的全景天窗可供選置。 This huge panoramic roof is optional on the Cayenne S E-Hybrid. Cayenne S E混合動力越野車符合安省的綠色車牌資格，就算車內只有司機一人，亦可使用共乘車道(HOV)。 The Cayenne S E-Hybrid qualifies for a green plate in Ontario, allowing the driver to use HOV lanes, even if there is only one person in the car.

The comfortable front bucket seats are heated and feature eight-way power adjustment and the tilt/telescoping steering wheel is also heated. If you’ve ever taken a glance at a pilot in the cockpit of an airliner as you board, you’ll get almost the same feeling in the driver’s seat of a Cayenne. The centre stack and console are awash in buttons, switches and the like, with

不多同樣的感受。中控台和控制台像飛機駕駛艙般佈滿按鈕及開關掣。

However, with this hybrid Cayenne, a pilot’s licence is not required for

然而，駕駛混合動力Cayenne卻毋需飛機師的執照，只需簡單地按下發動按鈕，電動模式便自動開啟，全車保持出奇的寧靜。

takeoff. Simply press the Start button and E-mode automatically kicks in, so everything remains eerily quiet. Instead of the traditional speedometer, the E-Hybrid gets a power meter in

有別於傳統的儀表，電力動能儀表將耗電量呈現在駕駛者前。車的電池藏於車尾的行李箱下，而行李箱的容量在後座座椅直立時是580公升，不過就沒有配備後備輪胎。Cayenne S E混合動力車可拖行的重量為3,500公斤。 Cayenne S E混合動力車的售價為87,700元起，試駕的一輛附加有其他選置，其售價為104,690元。除了有像車道偏離預警、泊車輔助及20吋的輪圈等各式獨立的選置外，還有包括了多項豪華配置的超高級套裝(9,090元)、連 HD收音機的Bose娛樂套裝 (2,280元)、氣壓懸掛系統跑車套裝(2,970元)，以及跑車計時套件和跑車排氣喉。

the gauge cluster in front of the driver, showing how much power is being used. Luggage capacity with the rear seats upright is listed at 580 litres and, with the battery pack under the rear cargo area, there is no spare tire. Towing capacity of the Cayenne S E-Hybrid is 3,500 kilograms. Priced from $87,700, the Cayenne S E-Hybrid driven here was loaded with options, taking the as-tested price to $104,690. Along with assorted stand-alone options like lane departure warning, park assist and special 20-inch wheels, the vehicle boasted the Premium Plus Package ($9,090) with a host of luxury features -- the Bose infotainment package with HD radio ($2,280) and the Sport Package ($2,970) with air suspension, sport chrono package and sport tailpipes.

保時捷並不對這型號能暢銷存有任何幻想，畢竟這型號是一款小眾及昂貴的產品，但重要的是它向業界展示廠方可以製造出一輛何等高性能的混合動力車。這可能是成就大事前的小開端。

settings for almost everything.

Porsche has no illusions that this model will be a huge seller. It’s a niche product and an expensive one at that. Yet, it’s an important one in the industry, demonstrating what a high-performance hybrid can offer. It might be just the start of big things to come from small beginnings.

Spec: 車身款式： 5座位高檔中型跨界運動型多用途車。驅動方式：前置引擎，全輪驅動。引擎： 3公升的V6增壓引擎輔以一台電動馬達(兩者結合產生416匹馬力及435磅/呎扭距)，及一組容量為 10.8千瓦的鋰離子電池。尾箱容量：後座座椅直立時為580公升，收起時為1,690公升。耗油量：純汽油行駛時為11.3/9.8/10.6 升/100 公里市內/ 高速公路 / 綜合；汽油與電動力混合使用時為 5/5/5.0公升/100 公里。價格： 87,700元，用作測試之車售104,690元。網址： www.porsche.com/canada 優點：一輛有跑車靈魂的插電式油電混合動力車。缺點：價格超過10萬元。誘人之處：電動力方面顯示出保時捷的最佳混合動力技術。

BODY STYLE: DRIVE METHOD: ENGINE:

five-passenger premium mid-size crossover SUV. front-engine, all-wheel drive. supercharged 3.0-litre V6 engine with an electric motor (combined 416 hp and 435 lb/ft of torque) and a lithium-ion battery with a capacity of 10.8 kWh. CARGO VOLUME: 580 litres with rear seats upright; 1,690 litres with seats folded. FUEL ECONOMY: 11.3/9.8/10.6 L/100 km city/highway/combined in gasoline mode and 5/5/5.0 Le/100 km in electric mode. PRICE: $87,700, as tested $104,690. WEBSITE: porsche.com/canada WHAT’S BEST: A plug-in hybrid with the soul of a sports car. WHAT’S WORST: Priced over $100K WHAT’S INTERESTING: The E-Hybrid serves to showcase the best of Porsche’s hybrid technology.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

111

Just for fun

自由‧自遊‧歌劇遊

Opera tOurs made easy

text | Zoe Mak photo | Aria Tours, Toronto Star

鍾

史

為

光

地

深

別

參

年

的

(

112

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

鍾情於歌劇的朋友，都喜歡親身到歐洲朝聖，漫遊歷

When classical music connoisseurs make

史悠久的歌劇院及欣賞著名的歌劇表演。現時有專門

pilgrimages to historic European opera houses,

為歌劇愛好者安排歌劇遊行程的旅行社，由訂票、觀

they need not worry about language being a barrier,

光以至食宿都為你妥善安排，讓你可以完全輕鬆自在

thanks to specialist tour operators. They take care

地沉殿於歌劇藝術的美。

of planning details from start to finish, allowing

深受歌劇迷歡迎一般專門為歌劇愛好者服務的旅行社都集中於美國，不過安省的Aria Tours就專為多倫多、渥太華等東岸城市的歌劇迷設計不同的歌劇遊，更特別為喜歡自由度高的顧客提供度身訂製的個人歌劇遊行程(Custom Tour)。

travellers to enjoy an opera tour at their own pace.

Popular demand Aria Tours, based in Almonte, Ont., near Ottawa, offers such tours, and can custom-design itineraries for those who desire a maximum degree of independence and control of the pace of their travels.

Aria Tours的負責人David Merritt表示，大部分愛好歌劇的旅客都喜歡參加在歐洲舉行的歌劇節，就如剛於今年6月在英國舉行的 Glyndebourne

Aria Tours president David Merritt says most opera lovers enjoy attending

Festival和7月在德國舉行Munich & Salzburg Festivals 的歌劇遊，早在一

opera festivals in Europe. The June tour to the Glyndebourne Festival in East

年前已經滿額。

Sussex, England, and the July tour to the Munich Opera Festival and the Salzburg Festival were fully booked a year in advance.

每個歌劇遊的名額最多15人，費用包括欣賞歌劇的頂級座位、5星級的住宿安排、每天早、午、晚餐、機場接送，另外還有專業的導遊總監 (Tour Director)帶你遊覽各名勝景點。

Tours are limited to 15 travellers. Prices include prime seats for operas, five-star accommodation, daily meals, airport transfers and the company of a professional tour director. Airfares are excluded, but the tour company can

費用不包括機票，不過旅行社可代為預訂 (須另收費)。

make bookings on your behalf for a service surcharge. ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

113

Just for fun

Best seats in the house

預訂靚位無論是欣賞歌劇或者任何現場表演，買到「靚位」最為重要，而參加歌

Having the right seats for operas is paramount, and specialist tour

劇遊其中一個好處就是旅行社會為你預先挑選最佳的座位並確認門票，那

operators have the advantage of securing the best seats in the house.

就不用擔心因門票售罄而撲空。 Nine-day, eight-night tours start at US$10,000 per person, double 一般9天8夜歌劇遊行程收費以雙人房計每位約US$10,000起，包括

occupancy, and include admission to six to eight operas. The Glyndebourne

欣賞6至8齣不同的歌劇。以Glyndebourne Festival歌劇遊為例，行程會

Festival tour itinerary, for example, covers London, Oxford and Glyndebourne.

到訪英國不同的城市如倫敦、牛津及 Glyndebourne，除了欣賞著名歌劇

In addition to attending famous operas, such as Carmen, La boheme and

如Carmen, La bohème和 La traviata之外，還會參觀布倫亨宮(Blenheim

La traviata, the group visited Blenheim Palace and Sissinghurst Castle and

Palace)和Sissinghurst Castle and Gardens等名勝。住宿及膳食方面，於

Gardens. The group was also treated to gourmet dining at the Michelin-starred

牛津一站會入住Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons並會於酒店內的米芝蓮餐廳

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, where they stayed during the Oxford stopover.

用膳，旅客在歌劇的中場休息時更可享用由Jamie Oliver親自主理的晚餐。歌劇遊行程休閒而充實，David補充道，除了歐洲歌劇遊之外，對於比較喜歡5至6天短程歌劇遊的朋友，可以選擇到美國的紐約或者三藩市。而除了欣賞歌劇之外，旅行社更會安排旅賞當地其他精彩的藝術表演，例如芭蕾舞、古典音樂、舞台劇等；而且每個目的地都有不同的旅遊主題，如有關歐洲古典建築、油畫、視覺藝術、歷史，文學和紅酒等。旅程 Tour ： A week in Rome 日期 Date ： February 17－25, 2016 歌劇 Opera ： La Cenerentola, Il barbiere di Siviglia, dell’ Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia 價格 Price ： from US$8,295 詳情： ariatours.com

114

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

旅程 Tour ： Copenhagen, Oslo & Stockholm 日期 Date ： May 5－16, 2016 歌劇 Opera ： The Danish National Symphony Orchestra, directed by Salome (Resmark, Petersen) and Fabio Luisi，Turandot, Falstaff, Così fan tutte, Macbeth. 價格Price ： from US$10,995 詳情： ariatours.com

旅程 Tour : Prague, Vienna & Budapest 日期 Date ： May 15-28, 2016 歌劇 Opera ： The House of the Dead,Abduction from the Seraglio，Lohengrin, Don Carlo, La traviata, Simon Boccanegra, The Vianna Phiharmonic, West Side Story, Macbeth, Otello. 價格 Price ： from US$10,295 詳情： ariatours.com

Free and easy The tours move at a relaxed pace, yet are packed with interesting highlights. Depending upon the destination, travellers can also enjoy ballet, classical music and musicals. Each destination is theme-packaged. European classic architecture, oil painting, visual art, history, literature and wine tours are some of the examples. Tour directors are usually art and culture professionals, knowledgeable in art history, classical music, archaeology and literature. Their presence certainly enhances group members’ knowledge and appreciation of

自訂行程

the arts.

歌劇遊的Tour Director均擁有不同的藝術背景，包括藝術歷史學家、音樂學家、考古學家和作家等，務求讓客人可以透過旅遊或欣賞表演，從而對

Merritt says Aria also operates five- to six-day opera tours to New York or San Francisco.

歌劇或者古典音樂藝術加深興趣和了解，而最重要的是可以讓歌劇愛好者享受一個一絲不苟的歌劇遊。

Although the tours accommodate no more than 15 people, some still prefer custom-designed itineraries to ensure the tour caters to

雖然歌劇遊每團的名額不算多，一般不多於15人，不過David表示仍然

their needs and preferences. Merritt says the customized tours have

有不少愛好者歌劇迷喜歡度身訂製的個人歌劇遊。他解釋，自訂行程可百分

a high level of freedom, and there is no minimum number stipulation

百滿足個人需要及喜好，就算對私隱度份外注重的客人，都可以完完全全享

on group members. The company charges a $500 tour-design

受旅遊過程。他說，自訂歌劇遊自由度高，不設最少參加人數限制，而他的

fee, on top of a 20-per-cent service charge on the total cost of the

旅行社會收取$500行程設計費，另加總數的20%作為服務費。

itinerary.

除Aria Tours外，Canadian Opera Company都有安排歌劇遊，目的地包括華盛頓、維也納、捷克、柏林等，詳情可瀏覽www.coc.ca。

The Canadian Opera Company also organizes tours to Washington, Vienna, the Czech Republic and Berlin.

於音樂之都維也納欣賞歌劇後，旅行社會安排旅客品嚐一頓fine dining。 Fine dining rounds off an evening of opera enjoyment in Vienna. (Aria Tours) 旅程 Tour ： San Francisco 日期 Date ： June 17- July 1, 2016 歌劇 Opera ： Don Carlo, ° Jenufa,Symphony No.2 "Resurrection" 價格 Price ： TBD 詳情： coc.ca

旅程 Tour ： Bayreuth Festival 2016 日期 Date ： August 16 – 26, 2016 歌劇 Opera ： Der Ring des Nibelungen, Parsifal, and two other opers. 價格 Price ： from US$15,995 詳情： ariatours.com

除了欣賞歌劇之外，還會暢遊風景如畫的Glyndebourne。 Sightseeing at picturesque Glyndebourne is another highlight of the opera tour (Garsington Opera)

Websites:ariatours.com / coc.com ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

115

Hi-Tech 數碼相機分為不同級別，有針對新

Digital cameras vary in complexity, from the entry-

手用家的入門級，亦有進階及高階

level camera aimed at beginners, to intermediate

等。劃分這些級別的標準，當然是

and advanced levels for the professional

規格的高低。但並不是所有大師都

“shutterbug.” The standards for setting these levels

會用最高階的相機，不少攝影達人

are based on the feature specifications of each

對相機的選擇都有自己的標準及喜

camera and not every seasoned photographer

好，例如很多人喜歡部機主要輕巧

necessarily uses the most advanced camera. Many

方便就可，對功能上的要求並不太

have their own standards and preferences when it

高；有些人就要求外形好看就可；

comes to choosing a camera. For instance, some

亦都有些人會特別注重功能，例如

prefer a camera that is lightweight and convenient,

快門速度等。因此市面上很多DC

despite its lack of functions. Some want a camera

相機，都有其獨特之處，正所謂

that looks good, while others take functions

「各花入各眼」，相機亦如是。

seriously, such as shutter speed, etc.

懶人自拍

Canon EoS M 10 The Lazyman’s seLfie machine

Canon最新推出的可換鏡無反數碼相機，就明刀明槍賣給懶人使用，尤其是女性。這部機主打輕便及簡易操控，雖然不設P/A/S/M 拍攝模式，但就有混合自動拍攝模式、短片模式、及Creative Assist 模式可揀。加上機身設計沿用M2的外形，相當圓潤簡潔，按鍵亦不多，快捷轉盤就設在快門掣位置及十字按鈕，操作上比M2更方便。 As a result of these varying prerequisites, there is a vast array of digital cameras on the market, each with its own unique features. The saying “beauty is in the eye of the beholder” certainly applies to cameras. The newest Canon M10 mirrorless digital camera, with changeable lenses, is designed for those who want picture-taking to be simple. This camera’s main selling point is that it is lightweight and easy to use. It does not have P (programmed auto), A (aperture-priority auto), S (shutter-priority auto) and M (manual) modes. Rather, it comes with a combination full-auto mode, short–movie mode and Creative Assist mode. The body design follows the exterior of the M2 — very smooth and simple, with few 相機配備3吋180度上揭式觸控屏幕。 The camera is equipped with a three-inch, 180-degree, touch-release, flip-up screen.

buttons. With the rapid-turn dial located next to the shutter button and a toggle button for still-vs.-movie mode, it is easier to control than the M2. text | 竺 photo | Hin

116

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

同步亦推出多款配件，包括多色保護皮套、相機帶及手柄。 Available accessories include protective leather cases in different colours, camera strap and handle.

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

117

Hi-Tech

01•機背按鈕亦不多，拇指握持位為荔枝皮，防滑之餘亦有手感。 There aren’t many buttons on the back of the camera. The thumb rests on a textured area, to provide a better grip. 02•機身左側為SD及HDMI卡槽。 The SD and HDMI card slots are located on the left side of the camera.

M10同時亦加入了M3的180度上揭觸控屏幕，每當用家將屏幕翻轉時，自拍模式就會自動開啟，包括美肌及模糊背景功能，非常適合喜歡自拍的女生。用家亦可在Creative Assist模式中調校景深、對比、飽和度及色溫等數據，非常方便。例如閣下偏好日系的淡雅色調，只要在設定中預設好所有數據，然後影出來的相片就會全都是「日系風」。規格上這部機就沒太多話題，始終是入門DC。但輕巧的機身及簡

機頂取消了熱靴位，在左側加入內置閃燈。中央的模式轉盤只有3個模式可揀，快門鍵外圍則為快捷轉盤。 The top of the camera does not have a hot shoe. Rather, the built-in flash is located on the left side. The dial in the centre provides only three mode choices. Next to the shutter button is the speed dial.

潔的外形，筆者就覺得相當適合女性用家使用，而且有大量EF鏡頭群可選擇。不過白色機身就給人「膠質」的感覺，黑色磨砂機身較有質感。 As a result of these varying prerequisites, there is a vast array of digital

機身設計沿用M2的外形，相當簡潔。 The body of the camera mirrors the M2 — quite minimalist.

cameras on the market, each with its own unique features. The saying “beauty is in the eye of the beholder” certainly applies to cameras. The newest Canon M10 mirrorless digital camera, with changeable lenses, is designed for those who want picture-taking to be simple. This camera’s main selling point is that it is lightweight and easy to use. It does not have P (programmed auto), A (aperture-priority auto), S (shutter-priority auto) and M (manual) modes. Rather, it comes with a combination full-auto mode, short–movie mode and Creative Assist mode. The body design follows the exterior of the M2 — very smooth and simple, with few buttons. With the rapid-turn dial located next to the shutter button and a toggle button for still-vs.-movie mode, it is easier to control than the M2. The M10 has also added the 180-degree, touch-release, flip-up screen from the M3. Whenever the user flips the screen up, it automatically switches to “selfie” mode. There are also skin-smoothing and backgroundblurring functions to suit the female selfie crowd. Depth of field, contrast, saturation, colour, etc., can easily be adjusted within the Creative Assist mode. For instance, if you prefer an elegant and muted colour scheme in the still of a Japanese painting, you can preset all the different colour and contrast values, and the resulting photographs will all be in “Japanese style.” Although the M10 is an entry-level DC, with a lightweight body and minimalist exterior, there are a large number of EF (electro-focus) lenses to choose from. The white camera may look “plastic,” while the black matte body has a more textured look. It also comes in grey.

Specifications: •售價：$729 （連EF-M 15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM kit） •感光元件：1,800萬像素APS-C CMOS •光圈：視鏡頭而定 •快門：1/4000-30s •感光度：ISO100-25600 •儲存媒體：SD / SDHC / SDXC •體積：108 x 67 x 35 mm •重量：301g •查詢：bccamera.com • Sale price: $729 (including EF-M 15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM kit) • Light-sensitive element: 1,800 megapixel APS-C CMOS • Aperture: depends on the lens used • Shutter: 1/4000-30s • Light sensitivity: ISO100-25600 • Storage media: SD / SDHC / SDXC • Size:108 x 67 x 35 mm • Weight: 301g • Inquiries: bccamera.com

機身右側為Wi-Fi及NFC無線連接掣。 Wi-Fi and NFC connection buttons are located on the right side of the camera. M10總共有黑、白、灰3種機身顏色選擇。The M10 comes in black, white and grey.

118

ELITEGEN

•

DEC

•

2015

LONDON •

PA R I S •

NEW YORK •

TOKYO •

BEIJING •

VA N C O U V E R • 1 0 8 8 A L B E R N I S T R E E T • 6 0 4 2 3 5 5 5 5 5

SHANGHAI •

HONG KONG •

TA I P E I •

SEOUL •

DUBAI

T O R O N T O • S H E R WAY G A R D E N S • O P E N I N G S O O N

DEBEERS.CA