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A publication by Sing Tao Media Group May/June
Calgary
May/June 2016 Vol. 17 Calgary
巴黎秋冬時裝周 2016 Paris Fall-Winter Fashion Week
現場直擊
2016 BASELWORLD
Karena Lam: The TripLe Crown in Life
Patek Philippe, Bulgari, Chanel, Rolex, Chopard, Omega, Jaquet Droz & more.
Karena Lam EliteGen.singtao.ca
The TripLe Crown in Life 林 嘉 欣 人 生 大 滿 貫
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編輯部 editorial
編輯主任 Editors
胡君偉 Kelvin Wu 葉子青 Leslie Yip
加西版 Can West
張萬青 Katherine Cheung
編審 Copy Editor
Ross Hopkins
助理編輯 Assistant Editor 參與 Contributors
吳皓沂 Crystal Ng Grace Chan, Iris Chui, Lorne Drury,
Kenson Ho, Peonne Lung, Zoe Mak, Monessa Ng,
Renée S. Suen, Mel Tobias, Shuk Wa Tsang,
Livian Wu, Miranda Yiu
美術部 art
星島美術部
廣告及市場部 sales & marketing 總經理 General Manager(Alberta)
出版 Publishing
鄺翠嬋 Sandy Kwong
Sing Tao Daily Limited
編輯部 Editorial Contact editorial@singtao.ca 營業部 Advertising Contact calsales@singtao.ca / 403-213-6882 Address : #10, 40 Hopewell Way NE, Calgary AB T3J 5H7
coNteNts MAY
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Watch story
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現場直擊
2016 BASELWORLD
cover story
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人生大滿貫 林嘉欣
the tRiple CRown in liFe: kARenA lAM
FashioN headliNe
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巴黎秋冬時裝周
2016 PARiS Autumn-WintER FAShiOn WEEk
Watch NeWs
36 靚改Rolex MAD ColleCtion exotiC Rolex
FashioN shoW
58 春夏時裝秀 leone 2016 SpRinG-SUMMeR FAShion Show
38 黑・薄 BUlGARi SliM, DARk AnD hAnDSoMe
ruNWay
60 有一種CoUtURe，叫inDie CoUtURe SAint lAURent A CoUtURe nAMeD inDie
JeWelry
40 菱格新作 ChAnel CoCo CRUSh
MeN’s Picks
62 不羈的費多拉 the ReBellioUS FeDoRA
coNteNts MAY
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liviNg
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2,600呎的私人藝術館 A 2,600-SquARE-FOOt PRivAtE ARt muSEum
elite car restauraNt
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煤氣鎮的自豪
L’ABAttOiR gAStOWn’S FORCE OF EnERgy & PRiDE
她和他的幽香 hiS & heR intRoDUCinG two new FRAGRAnCeS FRoM heRMèS
sceNt
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beauty
68 全方位亮白提案 A CoMpRehenSive plAn FoR Skin BRiGhteninG AnD liGhteninG
WiNe Not
80 西班牙寶藏 SpAniSh tReASUReS
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豪華世家 積架旗艦XJ 車系 LuXuRy REignS in JAguAR’S FLAgShiP XJ
elite liFe
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Just For FuN
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hi-tech
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迴旋古巴黎 An AnCient FAiR in pARiS 高球夏令營 在草坡上培育身心發展 GolF SUMMeR CAMp: DevelopinG phySiCAl AnD MentAl heAlth on the linkS vR視覺大氣勢 MAkinG A viSUAl iMpACt with vR
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Dress Code text | 蔡安儀
Celia Wong 著名形象設計師黃欐堯Celia，曾任陳慧琳、謝安琪、孫耀威、江若琳等藝人的形象設計，亦有參與唱片封套形象設計及演唱會形象指導。 早年出書教人襯衫扮靚，近年主力負責個人形象和美容指導，還開設個人網誌celiawong.com，分享服裝潮流及扮靚心得。 Famous designer Celia Wong has been image designer for many celebrities, including Kelly Chan, Kay Tse, Eric Suen and Elanne Kang, and has also been a designer of many album covers and image director of numerous concerts. Wong has written books offering tips about clothing and beauty. In recent years, she has focused on coaching individual clients on image and beauty, and even started her own blog (celiawong.com) to share fashion trends and beauty tips.
成熟 透視
盡顯 霸氣
劉嘉玲
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薛凱琪
性感 女神
文詠珊
Carina Lau
Fiona Sit
Janice Man
劉嘉玲穿上Atelier Versace高級訂製的湖水藍色羽 毛閃石拖尾長裙，確實甚具霸氣。羽毛設計的裙身 略帶一點擁腫，幸好配上高叉露腿的剪裁，行走起 來既性感且動感十足，令整個造型加分。
薛凱琪身穿半透視低胸露背晚裝裙，從後面看非常 誘人，吸引人多望兩眼。不過，似乎這條裙穿在她 身上略為成熟了一點。
文詠珊﹙Janice Man﹚上下真空，穿上Versus Versace超性感露腿裙，雖然前面平平無奇，但側 面及後面真是很搶鏡，盡顯她fit爆的身型，尤其是 側面大秀其長腿，確實十分誘人，亦非常出位。
This Atelier Versace haute couture aqua-blue maxi, with feathers, rhinestones and a long train, looks quite majestic on Carina Lau. While the feathers make it look a bit bulky, that’s offset by the high cut that shows off plenty of leg. As a result, the dress looks sexy and flowing as she walks, adding many points to the look.
In this low-cut, see-through, off-shoulder night gown, Fiona Sit looks quite alluring from the back, attracting plenty of attention. However, this dress makes her look a bit too mature.
Janice Man wears this super-sexy Versus Versace dress without a bra or underwear. The dress may be a bit plain in the front , but the side and back looks are quite attractive, accentuating her super-fit figure. In particular, the side view of her long legs is alluring, if not daring.
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醒神 影后
春夏
高貴 奪目
土氣 卓布
李冰冰
何超蓮
Jessie Li
Li Bingbing
Laurinda Ho
今屆電影金像獎的23歲影后春夏，穿上英倫品牌 Fyodor Golan的印花tube dress，極具色彩之餘， 青春感亦十足。這條裙平時穿都很漂亮，但出席這 麼隆重的場合，就略為遜色了些。裙腳位的透視部 份不長不短，感覺一節一節，有點怪怪的。
李冰冰這身打扮看見讓人嚇了一驚，似是穿起十年 前的舊裙，雖然造型斯文，但太像 「姊妹裙」 了，而 且透視長袖款式土爆，紗裙又像桌布，不合格！
最怕見到把高級訂造服穿得很老氣，不過何超蓮 恰恰相反，身穿Ashi Studio高訂裙的她，少女味十 足，裙上繡有的印度print，古典又高貴，再配一個 Jimmy Choo羽毛clutch，十分cutie！
Jessie Li, the 23-year-old Best Actress winner at the Hong Kong Film Awards, wears this print tube dress by British designer Fyodor Golan, showing both colour and youthfulness. While it looks like it might make a pretty everyday dress, at a formal event Li looks a bit under-dressed. Also, the see-through part along the hem makes it look oddly segmented.
Here, Li Bingbing looks like she’s wearing a dress from a decade ago. Even though it is a poised look, it too much resembles a bridesmaid’s dress. The sheer long-sleeve style is also too old-fashioned, and the muslin material looks too much like a tablecloth. Super fail!
Haute couture fashion can often look matronly, but Laurinda Ho bucks the trend here. She looks very youthful in this Ashi Sthio haute couture dress. The skirt has embroidered Indian prints, which look both classical and elegant. Matched with a Jimmy Choo feather clutch, this is definitely the look of a cutie!
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不敗 貴氣
Kate Middleton
Daisy Ridley
Gal Gadot
英倫淑女味別樹一格，當中的表表者非凱蒂王妃莫 屬，先不提她兩度懷孕也不影響身材，單是選擇衣 服的品味就夠古典，就像這件淡雅灰色長裙，貴氣 得來又永不過時，真是 「穩勝」 。
奧斯卡有不少打扮出色的女星，例如新一代 《星戰》 女星黛絲，雖然她身材一向不算突出，亦沒加入性 感行列，但勝在觀眾緣超強，一條閃裙顯得她十分 斯文，討好就OK。
除了在《蝙蝠俠對超人：正義曙光》戲裡面，「神奇 女俠」姬嘉鐸在首映禮亦搶盡鋒頭，冠絕全場的身 高，超美的身型，加上Deep-V晚裝，誰與爭鋒？
English ladies have their own distinguished styles, and Princess Kate might be the most stylish of them all. (Let’s not mention that she hasn’t lost her figure after two pregnancies.) Her taste in clothes is quite classic. Like this light grey maxi, it is elegant, timeless and, of course, a sure winner.
At the Oscars, many stars looked outstanding. Daisy Ridley, the new Star Wars lead actress, does not have a particularly superior figure and was not among the super-sexy in attendance. But she has a special knack of connecting instantly with the audience. In this sparkling dress, she looks demure and quite likeable.
“Wonder Women” Gal Gadot stole the limelight in Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice. Here, she is the focus of all attention: super height, perfect physique and a deep-V neckline gown. Who can defeat her?
裙：Erdem
裙：Chanel Haute Couture 鞋：Christian Louboutin 首飾：Chanel Fine Jewelry
裙：Prada 首飾：Tiffany & Co.
網評：每次的風格也很一致。 Webbuzz: Very consistent style.
網評：氣場這回事，是天賦的。 Webbuzz: The god-given star aura cannot be faked.
網評：不愧是model出身！ Webbuzz: Not surprising at all that she used to be a model!
(fabsugar.com)
(actresshot.net)
(popsugar.com)
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高妹 本色
最合 眼緣
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Dress Code
中規 中矩
Holly Hunter
Brie Larson
Lupita Nyong'o
Holly Hunter這位金像影后身上的藍色薄紗裙，輕 柔得來不會喧賓奪主，畢竟已經過了要鬥美的階 段，倒不如穩打穩紮，未嘗不是對活動來說的最佳 選擇。
出爐影后Brie終於去到日本，宣傳代表作 《抖室》 ， 這個花花裙造型絕無 「土味」 ，不是說她扮相一向老 土，只是戲中她做人娘親，這種帶適量少女味的形 象不乎合角色吧。
金像級女星Lupita一直是時尚圈寵兒，皆因她的 taste真是穩定高質，這件淡綠色喱士晚裝，帶出柔 和感覺，再加少許飾物顯高貴，就知她相當有時裝 觸覺。
The blue tulle dress on Oscar-winning actress Holly Hunter is soft and unassuming. After all, she is already past the beauty contest stage, so it is best to choose safe bets for these events.
Brie Larson, Oscar’s latest Best Actress winner, finally arrived in Japan to publicize her signature movie Room. This floral dress does not look “homely” at all. Not to say that her appearance is usually unsophisticated. It’s just that she played a mother in the movie, so this girlish look does not seem appropriate for the character.
Oscar winner Lupita Nyong’o has always been a favourite within fashion circles, because her taste is consistently high quality. This light green lace gown elicits a soft feeling and, by adding a little jewelry, it brings out the elegance of the look. She definitely has a keen fashion sense.
裙：Valentino
裙：Balmain
網評：恰如其分才最重要。 Webbuzz: Most important to be appropriately dressed.
網評：有點波希米亞！ Webbuzz: Looks a bit Bohemian!
網評：可歸類為大膽配色系列！ Webbuzz: Quite a daring colour combination!
(celebritystyleguide.com)
(coolspotters.com)
(fabsugar.com)
首飾：EFFY
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綠野 仙子
娘味 盡洗
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Cover Story 人人都說獲封金馬影后的林嘉欣，得了金馬大滿貫，十四年、兩套作品，便拿下了 最佳新演員、女配角和女主角三大榮譽；四月的香港金像獎，卻與最佳女主角無緣。 跟嘉欣談獎項，她卻不志在必得，「享受過拍攝過程，已經滿足，贏不贏，不是最重 要。」說得淡然，因為她早就擁有了人生更珍貴的大滿貫，有志趣相投另一半，兩個 可愛小公主，當了五年全職媽媽，有發揮的角色仍然會找上門來，最近還得到十四 年前《男人四十》的好拍檔張學友支持，成就她與導演丈夫的首次合作《暗色天堂》。 林嘉欣的人生，如意事十常八九，這才是真正令人羨慕。 Karena Lam was recently crowned Best Actress at the Golden Horse Film Festival and Awards in Taipei, completing the proverbial Golden Horse Triple Crown. The Vancouver native has now won three Golden Horses — Best New Actress and Best Supporting Actress for her role in July Rhapsody (2002) and Best Actress for Zinnia Flower (2015). Regrettably, she did not win Best Actress at the Hong Kong Film Awards in April. Lam, whose father is from Hong Kong, while her mother is of Japanese-Chinese heritage in Taiwan, plays down the significance of winning awards. “I am satisfied with enjoying the filming process. Whether I win (an award) or not is not important.” Why is that? It’s because she had already captured the most valuable triple crown in her life — a husband that shares her interests, as well as two lovely little princesses. Despite being a full-time mom for five years, movie companies still come knocking with roles that allow her to show off her talents to the fullest. Recently, with the support of Jacky Cheung, her good acting partner from 14 years ago, she was able to work for the first time with director/husband Steve Yuen in Heaven in the Dark. What’s truly enviable is that Lam’s life is mostly full of fulfilled wishes.
人生大滿貫 林嘉欣
The Triple Crown in life : Karena lam text | Candy Woo
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styling | Michelle Chow
photo | Mano Wong
make up | Will Wong
hair | Hin Wan
location | The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel
Paule Ka black and white dress Black long pearl and crystal earring US$230 Pearl ring US$190 Both from Salvatore Ferragamo and available at ferragamo.com
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COVER STORY
兼職監製 在溫哥華出生的林嘉欣，十六歲入行，丈夫袁劍 偉（Steve）又是知名廣告導演，這對演藝夫妻檔合作， 應該有十足默契，輕鬆順利吧？想像簡單，現實卻不， 「做前期準備壓力最大，我好想保持神秘感，但他會不 時問我：『你想怎演？』我想只好每次都答：『不告訴 你！』其實去到現場感受氣氛，加上演員互動，通常會 有調整，太早說實，就沒有驚喜。」說得對，無論第一次 拍拖，抑或第一次拍檔，都需要驚喜，才有火花。 驚喜不足以維繫和諧，常言道賢妻必須知所進退， 導演是片場的最高領導人，嘉欣也樂得做好演員本份， 「我事前已跟自己做好心理準備，叫自己成熟，在片場 要公私分明，絕對不會放肆挑戰他。」日常你才是家中話 事人？「我們習慣平等相處，有商有量，雖然工作上， 我比他多一點拍電影經驗，但他應該親自經歷和學習， 就算發現問題，我都會刻意迴避，由得他自己處理。」
Part-time Producer Lam, who entered the entertainment business at age 16, married Yuen, a famous TV commercials director at the time, in 2010. So, this showbiz couple must have a perfect understanding when they work together, and everything should go smoothly, right? Wrong. “The prep work was most stressful,” she recalls. “I wanted a certain degree of mystery, but he would keep asking me, ‘How do you want to act this out?’ Each time I wanted to answer, ‘I won’t tell you!’ “Actually, once you are on the set and feel the atmosphere there, and then the actors start interacting with each other, there are usually some adjustments. So if you have everything set too early, you’d eliminate the element of surprise.” Maybe she’s right. Whether you are dating for the first time, or partnering for the first time, the element of surprise is often needed for sparks to ignite. But surprise alone is not enough to maintain harmony. There is a saying that goes, “The wise wife must know when to advance and when to retreat.” As the word suggests, the director controls the film’s direction, so Lam is content with her role as an actress. “I already prepared myself psychologically ahead of time,” she says. “I told myself to be mature, and to be clear about what is professional and what is personal. I would not be presumptuous and challenge him.”
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Claudie Pierlot reinaldine cotton dress $350 (selfridges.com) Jimmy Choo LUC100 US$875 (jimmychoo.com)
COVER STORY
口裏說不，身體卻很誠實，另一半第一次拍電影，豈
When asked whether she is the person in charge at home, she replied:
會撒手不管？結果她花了多一倍專注力，儼如兼職監製，
“We are used to treating each other equally. We discuss everything openly.
「一場重頭戲的場景，由四日縮短到兩日，平常做演員，會
Even though in terms of work, I have more experience with filming movies
安心交製片處理，但今次會很想幫手解決。」護夫心切，人
that he does, he needs to experience and learn for himself. Even if I notice
之常情，「問題未處理，都會影響演戲心情，惟有叫自己冷
some problems, I would deliberately demur, and let him handle them
靜啦！」嘔心瀝血，卻沒換來導演讚賞，她也忍不住要「投
himself.”
訴」 ：「他只會公開讚學友演得好，對我卻敷衍：『回家再 說！』 」
Really? He’s making his first movie and she completely refrains from interfering? Well, not exactly. In the end, she doubled her role and acted as if
十四年的緣分 《暗色天堂》故事源自舞台劇《法吻》，講述教會助理與
she was a part-time producer. “There was an important location scene that was cut from four days
總幹事一吻之後沒有定情，卻變成對簿公堂，嘉欣與Steve
to two days,” she says. “Usually, if I were an actress, I would just let the
六年前看過舞台劇後，Steve便一直想將它拍成電影，於
producer handle it. But this time, I really wanted to help solve the problem
是動筆改編成電影劇本，既然太太是優秀演員，當女主角
myself.”
是順理成章吧？嘉欣卻坦言當初毫無心理準備，「我早對他 說，不必因為我們關係而一定找我，應該找最合適人選， 他說： 『我一直寫的時候都是想著妳呀。』 」 一句話簡直令人甜在心頭，尋常女子哪可抵抗？夫妻 檔一拍即合，「電影是我們的共同興趣，由創作劇本、找投
It’s understandable she would want to help her husband, but it was a personal thing as well. “If the problem was not solved, it would affect my mood when acting, so I kept telling myself to stay calm.”
資、找演員、拍攝到剪片，我們一直維持在興奮狀態，非 常好玩。」電影創作就像玩育成遊戲，她今次不只演，連場 景、道具也有她的心思，「主角Michelle和杜牧師談判的場
Even though she worked her heart out, the director did not pay her any compliments. She couldn’t help but complain.
景，背景是一幅荷蘭畫家作品，繪畫一名因羞愧而切腹自 殺的女子，跟Michelle的心理狀況好接近，導演將它放在場 景中，令我演Michelle時更有力量。」 為了演好角色，她甚至花兩個月返教會，「我沒有宗教
“He would only openly praise Jacky Cheung and say that his acting was good. To me, he would always stall and say, ‘Let’s talk about it at home.’”
Fulfilling 14 Years’ Destiny
信仰，想了解Michelle的虔誠教徒心態，便去教會做崇拜、 聽道，體驗在宗教的氣氛下，她為甚麼有勇氣與地位超然 的杜牧師在法庭對峙。」
Heaven in the Dark is based on the play French Kiss, which recounts a kiss between a church assistant and the church director that turned into a court case rather than a romantic relationship.
邀得學友出山，促成十四年後的緣分，嘉欣也是幕後 推手，「看完劇本，我第一個想到的人選就是學友，他有男
After Lam and Yuen saw the play six years ago, Yuen began thinking
主角的自信和charm，跟導演提出找學友，他說：『我都很
about turning the play into a film and eventually penned a movie script. With
想找他，但哪有可能呀！』」不久後學友竟然主動找嘉欣拍
an excellent actress as his wife, it may have seemed natural to cast her as
MV， 「有機會親自跟他解說故事大綱，自然事半功倍啦！」
the lead actress. But Lam says she was completely unprepared for it.
空虛餓戲
“I told him early on, not to use me because of our relationship. Rather, he should find the best person for the part. And he said, ‘But I kept thinking
與學友再合作，她已沒當年的敬畏心情，「我們不常
about you as I was writing!’”
見面，但當我遇到難題，他會分享經驗，感覺他似哥哥多 過前輩，這些年的友情，令我更易入戲，見到他戲中的潦 倒、失意，那種心痛是從心而發的。」 只三言兩語，已讓人心急想看看二人怎樣併發火花，
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Such sweet words were surely difficult to resist. Thus the husband-wife team was quickly formed and it proved to be a success. “From creating the script, to finding investors, to finding actors, filming to
難怪電影未公映先有提名，「我會為學友更開心，因為他實
editing, we kept staying in a state of excitement,” she says proudly. “It was
在演得好，對導演也是一大鼓勵，至於自己，我最享受拍
a lot of fun.”
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Valentino lace dress
Producing a film is like an “edutainment game.” This time Lam was not only acting, but also participating in the creation of scenes and props. “The set for the scene, in which Michelle negotiated with Pastor To, has a Dutch painter’s painting in the background. The painting is about a woman who committed hari kari out of shame. That is similar to Michelle’s psychological state in the scene. So the director placed the painting in the set, so I was more powerful as Michelle in that scene.” To do a credible job with the role, Lam even spent two months attending church. “I don’t have any religious beliefs. So in order to understand the religious devotion of Michelle, I attended worship services at a church, listened to the sermons and experienced how, under the religious influence, Michelle had the courage to confront the higher-status Pastor To in court.” It took 14 years to fulfil the destiny of an on-screen reunion with Cheung. To convince him to work on a film again, Lam worked behind the scenes. “After reading the script, my first choice was Jacky,” she says. “He has the confidence and charm of the male lead. When I suggested to the director to ask him, he said, ‘I want him too, but how it is possible?’” Lam says Cheung approached her shortly thereafter about the possibility of collaborating on a music video, “so I had the chance to explain the story outline to him in person, which, of course, was an easier sell.”
Hungering for Acting Working with Cheung this time around, Lam was no longer in awe, as when she was younger. “We don’t meet often, but when I would run into problems, he would share his experiences. I have always considered him more a big brother than a senior. The friendship we have had over the years makes it more possible for me to get into the story. Watching him get down and depressed in the scenes, my feeling of pain was truly heartfelt.” Just chatting with Lam about their relationship makes one impatient to see how the two create sparks on screen. It’s no wonder the movie received award nominations even before public screening.
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COVER STORY
Claudie Pierlot Roze satin dress $470 (selfridges.com) Céline drop earrings
攝過程，拍完就會放低，去年金馬獎宣布結果時，其實電影已拍完超 過一年，所以感覺已不太真實。」二人同台得獎，一定是我最期待的畫 面。 兩部復出作品，均大獲好評，會鼓勵她增產嗎？「之前當全職媽 媽，都有空虛餓戲的時候，復工之後，拍到好角色，生活的確開心得 多，不過我很滿足現狀，只會按生活節奏選喜愛的角色才演。」 初出道時，演戲是為得到更多認同，現在家庭才是生命的全部， 「劇本和角色要有好大吸引力，才說服到我割捨跟女兒相處的時間。」 甚麼角色，甚麼獎項，也不及跟兩位小女兒在家親子互動吸引，「我常 常跟她們玩面具遊戲，家姐設計了一個彩色面具，我拿它來扮演不同 角色，大家不用聲音，只用動作溝通，有時玩打觔斗，有時玩野餐， 兩姊妹好投入，覺得媽媽變身好神奇，玩極也不覺厭。」林氏創意育兒 法，兼可過足戲癮，那還需要iPad育兒嗎？ “I will be happy for Jacky, because he really did a great job. It is also a big encouragement for the director. As for myself, I most enjoyed the filming process. I can totally put the whole thing down after shooting finishes. “Last year, when the Golden Horse Awards were announced, the film had already been finished for more than a year, so the feeling was somewhat unreal.” For the two to win at the same time, both with comeback performances, would undoubtedly receive critical acclaim. Would this encourage her to work more? “When I was a full-time mom, I would sometimes miss filming. Now that I am working again, and have got some great roles, I am happier, of course. But I am content with the current situation and I will work with the rhythm of life and only choose roles that I like.” When she first started acting, she was always in search of wider recognition. Now she considers that family has completed her life. “Both the script and the character will have to be very attractive to persuade me to cut into the time I spend with my daughters,” she says, insisting that no role or award compares with the nurturing interaction of her two young daughters — Kayla, 5, and Sophie, 2. “I often play mask games with them. My elder daughter designed a colourful mask, and I would use it to act out different roles. We don’t use our voices, but just motions, to communicate. Sometimes we will do somersaults. Sometimes we will have pretend picnics. Both girls are very much into it, and they think it is magical to have mom transformed into different characters. The play never gets old.” Lam’s creative style of parenting also fulfils her hunger for acting. Of course, iPad parenting is not necessary in this household. Not yet, anyway. 26
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Watch Story Blancpain
Métiers d'Art The Great Wave 這是錶盤複雜，雕刻不一定非金即 銀，Blancpain今年示範了銅鏽綠 雕刻，以去年面世的赤銅合金為基 礎，施以日本rokusho獨特處理工 序，呈現灰綠色澤的波浪圖騰。要 是再下一城連續第二年奪得日內瓦 製錶大賞最佳工藝錶，可以成為一 時佳話。 The complication of this watch lies in the dial. The Great Wave applique in white gold is coated with a unique patina through a bath of rokusho salts and polished in certain parts to intensify the impression of a huge billowing wave. It will be a great triumph if it wins the brand the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for the second time in a row.
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater 難怪大鑼大鼓事先張揚，Bulgari今 年推出不可思議三問錶，機芯薄錶 殼更薄，三問機芯只厚三點一二毫 米，許多普通機芯也望塵莫及；鈦 金屬錶殼僅厚六點八五毫米，全錶 僅重四十三克，三問錶竟然可以用 於一般腕錶，我們當作平常配戴， 怎不能向設計團隊脫帽子致敬。 It’s not surprising Bulgari made a lot of noise about the launch of this incredible minute repeater. The movement is a very thin 3.12mm, much thinner than a regular movement, and the titanium case is not much thicker, at 6.85mm. The whole watch weighs a mere 43 grams. Making a minute repeater in such dainty dimensions is indeed worthy of a salute.
Credor
Fugaku Tourbillon 極罕曝光，精工Credor首做陀飛輪， 錶面又金雕又上漆東瀛江戶時代波 浪圖，日本人就是有這種民族團結， 何需刻意奉承別人標榜異地風情？尊 貴身份配鉑金殼，直徑四十三毫米， 主角陀飛輪在九時位置，錶圈鑲有 四十八顆藍寶石只造八枚，暫定價 五千萬日圓，即約售五十八萬，不過 單靠日本人應該掃清。 The first-ever tourbillon by Seiko Credor is a rare gem. The dial stands out with waves in a yellow and white gold engraving set against Kaga lacquer. With the combined prowess of Japanese craftsmen, who needs any other exotic appeal? Its premium quality is underscored by the 43mm platinum case and a bevel is set with 48 sapphires. The tourbillion is prominent at 9 o’clock. Only eight pieces have been made, each going for 50 million yen, or about $580,000, and they could very well all be snapped up by local Japanese buyers.
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現場直擊2016 BASELWORLD
趣味複雜
CompliCated ALLuRE
我相信，今年無論如何，BASELWORLD官方不 可能再公布今年入場人次再創新高，個人目測， 至少少了三份一人。我只會說，市況下滑是明顯 和激烈，品牌有調整價格，但仍未追及到超吸引 水平。所謂複雜篇，也不能用以往複雜絕倫的定 義，能夠創造有趣點子便已經很好。 text, photo | 金成
Patek Philippe Ref. 5930G
Patek Philippe的world time夠經典， chronograph亦一絕，兩者結合成今 年最有份量新作5930G 。Guilloche 藍面很有PP world time傳統因子，只 設一個三十分鐘累計令錶面保持空靈 美。搭載全新自家飛返計時機芯，白 金錶殼直徑三十九點五毫米，厚度約 十三毫米。約售九萬。 Patek Philippe’s world time is a classic, and its chronograph is one of a kind. Bringing the two complications together in this year’s 5930G is a real eye-opener. The blue guilloche dial bears the DNA of the PP world time, and the single 30 minutes chronograph keeps the dial minimalistic. The flyback chronograph is an allnew, in-house creation. The white gold case measures 39.5mm in diameter and 13mm in thickness. (About $90,000)
DeWitt
Academia Skeleton Basel當然不是只有簡約錶，還有 DeWitt 「在盒子外思考」 ，七時位置加 入雙逆跳秒鐘顯示，雙行刻度，短指 針走完三十秒會變長指針逆方向再走 三十秒，視覺效果不俗，連陀飛輪都 變成配角。 Minimalistic watches are not the only stars in BASELWORLD. DeWitt thinks outside the box and adds a unique bi-directional seconds hand at 7 o’clock. It runs for 30 seconds and then instantly jumps back to the starting position and goes in the opposite direction to run for 30 seconds. The stunning feature even overshadows the tourbillon.
Hublot
Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black
BASELWORLD is unlikely to report another year of record attendance. The downward trend this year was apparent and steep – possibly 30 per cent. Brands were adjusting prices, albeit not quite to irresistible levels. While the complicated collections didn’t take our breath away as much as before, they still managed to offer some talking points.
Hublot不光設計出人意表，款式多產 才最瘋狂。法拉利五十日鍊、眼鏡聯 乘作、新十日鍊鏤通機芯、Berluti特 別版、歐聯限定版等等，數都數到氣 咳。還有最重要一枚，紀念All Black 系列問世十周年，全黑色藍寶石水晶 錶殼，隱約呈現smoky black透明效 果。限量五百枚，另有純透明藍寶石 水晶錶殼款式，約售八萬。 Hublot dazzles as much with its stunning designs as with the diversity of its collection. The Ferrari special with 50-day power reserve, the crossover with eyeglass brands, the new 10-day power reserve skeletonized watch, the Berluti special and the limited collection dedicated to UEFA Euro 2016. The list goes on and on. The most significant one marks the 10th anniversary of the All Black collection. The sapphire case is transparent in a smoky-black tone. Limited to 500 pieces, the collection also features a version in a transparent blue sapphire case. (About $80,000)
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Chanel
Graff
還以為是那家傳統機芯生產商還有 勇氣生產自製機芯，原來卻是香奈 兒出品，巴嫂果然臥虎藏龍。首次 造自家機芯極精緻，底版竟用上西 裝領花邊設計，更首度突破可調校 前後的逆跳指針，大幅度二百四十 度逆跳分鐘，香奈兒魔法原來不只 在珠寶領域才湊效，約售四萬五千 元。 I was wondering which traditional watchmaker had the gumption to make an in-house calibre these days. It turned out to be Chanel, which helps to confirm BASELWORLD is really full of hidden talents. Chanel’s firstever, in-house movement is very delicate, with a base plate design inspired by lapel ruffles. It also makes a breakthrough with the retrograde minute hand that can be set forwards and backwards on a 240-degree display. So, Chanel is definitely more than premium jewellery. (About 45,000)
Graff今年做世界，GyroGraff World 錶盤用大明火琺瑯勾勒不同區分地 圖，層次立體，色澤鮮明，世界每 秒在轉，GyroGraff陀飛輪也在旁 邊圍着轉，姿態非常誘人，稱之為 ARTPIECE不為過。
Corum
Ulysse Nardin
Corum的金橋多年沒有以圓形錶殼 的姿態現身，新鮮感首先加分。這 枚Golden Bridge Round的錶盤兩 旁建有金門大橋，由於是圓殼的關 係，錶盤兩邊有大量空間讓品牌表 演雕功，令層次感更豐富，雕藝陸 續有來。約售五萬六千元。
雅典加Christophe Claret團隊設計的 超複雜作，錶面中央是雙窗跳時， 分鐘刻度橫跨錶面，最嚇人是藍色 分鐘擺桿的活動跟一般Retrograde 很不同，緩慢地被幾條鈉米幼線拉 來扯去，掠過分鐘環顯示分鐘，技 術創意都厲害。約售四十萬元。 The super-complicated watch made by Nardin and Christophe Claret’s team stands out with the jumping hour indicator and the technologically stunning retrograde minute indicator that uses nanowires to pull the blue aluminium retrograde minute hand to indicate the minute. (About $400,000)
Monsieur de Chanel
Golden Bridge Round
Corum’s Golden Bridge hasn’t come in round shape for many years, which makes this one a refreshing change. This Gold Bridge Round takes inspiration from the Golden Gate Bridge, featured on either side of the dial. The round shape provides plenty of room for playing with skeletonized structures, giving it more depth and room for engraving. (About $56,000)
BASELWORLD現場的人流較往年下跌。 BASELWORLD has drawn a lower attendance this year.
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GyroGraff World
The map of land and sea in vibrant hues is applied by enamel grand feu and then hand-varnished. It moves every second in sync with the GyroGraff tourbillon in mesmerizing choreography -- a true art piece indeed.
Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon
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Watch Story
Seiko
Presage Chronograph Seiko的Presage系列近年有數款漆面和瓷 面錶非常靚，奈何只在日本國內發售。不 過今年是精工生產機械自動錶六十周年， 特別推出兩款各限量一千枚的漆面和瓷面 計時錶，搭載8R48自動機芯，最緊要是供 應全球市場，價錢更只是約四千餘元。 Seiko’s Presage collection has presented a few fetching watches with enamel or ceramic dials in recent years, but they were only sold in Japan. This year, as Seiko marks its 60th anniversary of making automatic mechanisms, the brand introduces two limited collections of enamel dial and ceramic dial -- 1,000 pieces each. They are powered by the 8R48 automatic mechanism and are available worldwide for around $4,000.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
都說今年是藍色天下，Blancpain今年的 「五十噚」換上藍面藍圈，再襯上NATO錶 帶，腕錶由頭到腳流着潛水血液，跟黑色 錶圈錶盤又是另一種味道，約售一萬七千 元。 So blue does continue to dominate this year. Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms for this year appears with a blue dial and a blue bezel, and a matching NATO watch strap to show off its DNA as a diving watch. The version in black dial and black bezel gives off yet a different feel. (About $17,000)
親民入手篇 aCCeSSible
EntRy-LEvEL OptiOnS 至於親民選擇，有說今年藍色錶盤是主流，其 實七、八年前藍色錶盤早已崛起，反而今年不 少貴價品牌首度推出平價鋼錶，也有品牌把複 雜功能大幅割價的創舉，最矚目動作首選Tag Heuer 02 Tourbillon。 For accessible options, some say blue dial is the mainstream this year. Actually, blue dials have been “in” for seven or eight years. Some upmarket brands are introducing more budgetfriendly stainless steel watches, and some are slashing prices for complicated watches. Perhaps the most noticeable is the Tag Heuer 02 Tourbillon.
Tudor
Heritage Black Bay Bronze Tudor今年繼續將Black Bay復古系列發揚 光大，更史無前例用銅造殼，再配上同色 系的棕色面及棕色錶圈，配織布錶帶或風 化皮帶，約售五千元左右，之前沒有銅錶 的話，今年出手，後年就可以感受金屬綠 銹的質感與味道。 The Heritage Black Bay collection takes the spotlight this year with the unprecedented use of a bronze alloy for the case, with matching brown dial and brown bezel, and a woven-fabric or aged brown-leather strap. The watch is priced at around $5,000. If you don’t have a bronze watch, get one this year and you will begin to see the texture and allure of patina two years later.
Tissot
Heritage 1936 天梭復刻功力強勁，每年都有精采復刻作 品，Heritage 1936既是腕錶也是懷錶，復 刻一九三○年代風格，時標、logo、指針 都美不勝收，價錢也吸引，才千元，幾乎 想立即放下訂金。 Tissot shows its retro prowess year after year. Heritage 1936 is a wristwatch, as well as a pocket watch, in 1930s vintage style. The hour markers, the logo and the hands are awesome, as is the price: $1,000. Where do I put down a deposit?
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Tag Heuer 02 Tourbillon
幾乎不用花唇舌推介，Tag Heuer的Heuer 02 Tourbillon打破了陀飛輪和中價錶 「風馬 牛不相及」的界線，最便宜只賣萬多元， 今年真身終於登場，有鈦金屬也有玫瑰金 版，還有限量的Phantom黑魂版。不少專 造陀飛輪的品牌都會頭痛欲裂。 The Heuer 02 Tourbillon needs little introduction. It breaches the gap between tourbillon and the mid-price range and makes the complication available for just over $10,000 at the entry level. The real thing has finally made an appearance, in titanium or rose gold, as well as the limited-edition Phantom in black. This tourbillion is going to give other tourbillion makers a bad headache.
Jaquet Droz
Grande Seconde Off-Centered 今年Jaquet Droz有兩枚親民鋼殼，先有跳 秒首次於不鏽鋼殼粉墨登場，不需十六萬 算是中度驚喜；再來Grande Seconde OffCentered偏心式「8字」錶盤，設計有型有 格，售價只約萬二元，好吸引。 Jaquet Droz has introduced two accessible stainless steel versions – one is the jumping seconds priced enticingly below $160,000, and the other is the Grande Seconde Off-Centered, with an off-centered 8-shaped dial and an attractive price tag of about $20,000.
Omega
Speedmaster CK 2998 Omega Speedmaster CK 2998是最矚目的 新錶，取材自一九五九年款式，CK在當年 的意思是不鏽鋼，藍和米白錶盤流露自然 懷舊味道。新錶搭載一八六一手動上鍊登 月機芯，錶殼直徑三十九點七毫米，限量 二千九百九十八枚。定價只需約八千元。 Omega Speedmaster CK 2998 is one of the most eye-catching new watches. The CK, which meant stainless steel in the early years, is inspired by a 1959 design and has a vintage blue and beige dial. It features the 1861 hand-winding moonwatch calibre. The case is 39.7mm and it is limited to 2,998 pieces. (About $8,000)
Breitling
Avenger Hurricane 五十毫米錶殼先聲奪人，驟眼看以為是炭 殼的Breitling Avenger Hurricane用新物料 Polymer造錶殼，比鈦金屬輕比炭纖硬， 造型啞黑超酷，售萬餘元，物有所值之選。 The 50mm carbon-like case of the Breitling Avenger Hurricane is actually a new form of polymer that is lighter than titanium and harder than carbon fibre. The matte black colour is super cool. just more than $10,000, it is great value for the money.
今年BASELWORLD吸引來自世界各地人士參觀。 BASELWORLD attracts visitors from around the world. ELITEGEN
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Rolex
Daytona Daytona神話通常只發生在鋼殼是真理， 黑瓷錶圈配白色錶盤不用多作介紹，近日 肯定鋪天蓋地總看得見，可以說這十年 Daytona都是黑錶盤佔上風，今年白色錶 盤卻贏盡口碑，定價一萬一千八百瑞郎， 約加幣萬五元和舊款相近，個人估計炒價 維持至少一年。 It is true that the Daytona legend happens only with stainless-steel cases. The one with black ceramic bezel, set against the while dial, is showcased everywhere these days. While black dials had been the norm for Daytona for the past decade, this year’s white dial is winning a lot of applause. The price of $15,000 is about the same as the older models, and I bet speculation will keep the price high for at least a year.
Chopard
L.U.C Perpetual Twin 今年鋼錶大熱，尤其鋼殼萬年曆更是必爭 之地，Chopard以約十八萬的價位推出這 款不鏽鋼萬年曆，錶盤布局如計時錶般 充滿運動氣息，十二時位還配置大日曆， 四十三毫米大小剛好，加上自家機芯、雙 發條鼓、珍珠陀自動上鍊同天文台認證。 Stainless-steel watches are in this year, and perpetual calendar in stainless steel even more so. Chopard introduces this perpetual calendar at the price point of about $180,000. The dial is as dynamic as a sporty chronograph. A big date dominates the 12 o’clock position. The size of 43mm is just right. It is fitted with an mechanical self-winding, in-house calibre with two barrels and is certified by the COSC.
Oris
Diver 65 一見Oris這枚Diver 65，老實說是會令人想 起那枚經典潛水錶，而且是人人在二手市 場爭個頭崩額裂的舊版本，特徵包括大圓 點時標、微拱錶鏡，都是錶迷癡心所愛， 復古味一發不可收拾，而且售一萬多實在 吸引。 This Oris Diver 65 reminds me of the retro dive watch that everyone is fighting for in the second-hand market. The well-loved features, like large circle hour markers and the slightly concave glass, are as retro as it gets. The price of around $10,000 is also very attractive.
Hermès
Slim d'Hermès 今年最愛簡約錶之一，Slim d'Hermès有枚 藝術字體時標配上大明火琺瑯錶盤，美感 靚絕全場，售約三萬多元。退一步，同樣 美得出塵的灰色銅製錶盤，則只售萬多元。 One of this year’s minimalistic watches, Slim d’ Hermès, uses artsy hour markers on a grand feu dial. Priced at about $30,000, it is the epitome of elegance. The more accessible version, with a slate-grey dial and priced at just over $10,000, is also very fetching.
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Longines
Heritage 1918 每年不去看浪琴一定會後悔，Heritage系 列不買也值得一看。今年Heritage1918白 面配黃字，男裝鋼殼四十一毫米，才賣 二千多元，喜歡的話再買三十八點五毫米 女裝湊成一對復刻絕配。 Longines’ Heritage collection is worth taking a look at, even if you’re not buying. This year, Heritage 1918 comes with a white dial and yellow numerals. The man’s stainless steel 41mm is going for just over $2,000. Get the lady’s stainless steel 38.5mm as well, for a perfect retro pair.
Nomos
Tetra
Nomos去年新造的超薄自家機芯 DUW3001，今年由圓殼移植至方殼的 Tetra，尺寸為三十三乘三十三毫米，正經 四正之餘，機芯更獲優化，加入了自家的 regulator system，令腕錶的心臟跳得更穩 定。白色錶面約售四千五百元，黑面貴百 多元，簡簡單單已經好靚。 The ultra-thin DUW3001 automatic calibre that Nomos created in-house last year has migrated from a round case to a 33x33mm square Tetra case this year. The movement is optimized with an in-house regulator system to make the heart of the watch beat more consistently. Simple is beautiful. The white dial version is going for $4,500, with the black dial model costing about $100 more.
Frederique Constant
Slimline Perpetual Calendar
今年Basel一件重大事情！你猜猜，這枚 設計如此好看、如此經典的萬年曆，搭載 品牌全新設計的自家製機芯，售價是多 少？你沒可能猜得對的，這枚Frederique Constant的Slimline Perpetual Calendar只 售萬二元左右，是全球最便宜。 This is big at Basel this year! Can you guess how much this good-looking perpetual calendar, powered by the brand’s all-new, in-house movement, costs? Would you believe this Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar can be had for about $20,000 -- possibly the cheapest such watch in the world?
Zenith
Heritage Pilot Cafe Racer Spirit
在瑞士巴塞爾舉行的BASELWORLD保安嚴密。 Security is tight at BASELWORLD, staged in Basel, Switzerland.
也許大家對品牌去年的銅殼軍錶還念念不 忘，不過今年大家有再多一個選擇，是不 鏽鋼錶殼經過舊化處理後，配合獨特灰色 錶盤，呈現強烈懷舊味道的Heritage Pilot Cafe Racer Spirit，四十五毫米直徑自家機 芯，售價約一萬元更是非常吸引。 Last year’s stainless-steel version was memorable, but this year’s Heritage Pilot Cafe Racer Spirit, with an aged stainless-steel case and unique grey dial, gives off a distinctive vintage feel. It is fitted with a 45mm, in-house calibre and costs around $10,000. That’s attractive, too.
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Watch news
MAD collection Rolex 金鋼Daytona Gold Stainless Steel Daytona $67,000 38毫米錶殼，黃金鋼雕刻錶鏈，配鏤空鏤刻錶盤。 38mm, with engraved gold stainless steel bracelet and skeletonized dial. MAD collection Rolex 彩色藍寶石Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow Sapphire Cosmograph Daytona $83,650 38毫米錶殼，DLC塗層精鋼錶，錶圈密鑲漸變彩色藍寶石。 38mm, with DLC stainless steel, adorned with rainbow sapphires on the bezel. (價錢均為約價 All prices are estimates)
靚改Rolex
MAD ColleCtion Exotic RolEx text | Chappie photo | Simpson
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近年興起個性化改裝Rolex，以全黑DLC（Diamond-like
Customized Rolexes have become all the rage recently. Rolex-
Carbon）特別塗層帶出神秘時尚的效果，獲Rolex官方認可的
sanctioned collections, slicked with black Diamond-like Carbon (DLC)
改錶公司，除了英倫Bamford Watch Department之外，還有
coating to add a touch of mystery, are being produced by England’s
來自法國的MAD Collection，MAD Collection的改裝方式強
Bamford Watch Department, as well as France’s MAD Collection.
調錶面及錶鏈，尤其Daytona襯雕刻錶殼及錶鏈更是品牌最得 意的款式。不過溫馨提示，所有改裝Rolex均不能享有原廠保 養，只有獲得改錶公司提供約2至3年保養。
Perhaps, the most outstanding piece in the MAD Collection is the Daytona, with its engraved case and bracelets. It’s worth noting that customized Rolexes will have their warranties by Rolex voided. Instead, they carry two- to three-year coverage provided by the customization brand.
MAD collection Rolex 迷彩面Submariner Camouflage Submariner $28,850 40毫米錶殼，DLC塗層啞灰精鋼 錶，人手繪迷彩錶盤。 40mm, in matte DLC grey stainless steel and hand-painted camouflage dial.
MAD collection Rolex 啞黑Submariner Matte Black Submariner $28,850 40毫米錶殼，DLC塗層啞黑精鋼 錶，配紅色秒針。 40mm, in matte black DLC stainless steel, with red second hand.
MAD collection Rolex 深藍面Cosmograph Daytona Blue Exotic Cosmograph Daytona $48,300 名為"Blue Excotic"獨家系列，38 毫米錶殼，DLC塗層精鋼錶。 38 mm, in DLC stainless steel.
MAD collection Rolex 鑲鑽 Cosmograph Daytona Diamond Cosmograph Daytona $157,100 40毫米錶殼，DLC塗層精鋼錶， 錶圈密鑲5.44卡長方形切割鑽石。 40mm, in DLC stainless steel, paved with 5.44-ct baguette diamonds on the bezel.
MAD collection Rolex 黑鑽Milgauss Black Diamond Milgauss $37,550 40毫米錶殼，DLC塗層黑精鋼 錶，錶圈密鑲黑鑽石。 40mm, in DLC black stainless steel, paved with black diamonds on the bezel.
MAD collection Rolex 全黑Explorer Full Black Explorer $23,550 此錶名為Explorer "Ghost"，39毫 米錶殼，DLC塗層啞黑精鋼錶及 錶盤。 This“Explorer Ghost”features 39mm case, with matte black DLC dial and bracelet.
MAD collection Rolex 啞黑Milgauss Matte Black Milgauss $26,500 40毫米錶殼，DLC塗層啞黑精鋼 錶及錶盤，配紅色秒針。 40mm, with matte black DLC stainless steel dial and bracelet and red seconds hand.
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BULGARI OCTO ULTRANERO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON
Bulgari 3月在巴塞爾發佈的秘密武器， 就是男裝Octo Ultranero系列內的 「酷黑」 ，亦是全球最薄的陀飛輪。 The cool, black Octo Ultranero, boasting the world’s thinnest tourbillon, is the secret weapon that Bulgari unleashed at Baselworld in March.
黑・薄
BULGARI
Slim, dark and handSome text | Ringo
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photo | Kauzrambler
在競爭劇烈的製錶工業，你今天做到了全球最細、最薄、最輕、最閃
In the highly competitive world of watchmaking,
的紀錄，下半年甚或下個月人家就推快作挑戰你，沒留半分情面，一切汰
holding the record for being the smallest, thinnest, lightest
弱留強。Bulgari在2014年創製了一枚全球最薄、僅厚1.95mm的手上鏈飛
or brightest of anything can be mercilessly shattered
行陀飛輪機芯BVL 268 Finissmo，紀錄至今依然無人突破，證明其機械
in the course of a month, or a season. However, the
技術構造比人家早走了幾年。今天此枚無敵機芯搭載於40mm經DLC處理
1.95-millimetre, hand-wound flying tourbillon BVL
的鈦金屬內，添上更厚重的黑沉味道，襯上18K玫瑰金指針、錶冠以及綴
268 Finissmo that Bulgari unveiled in 2014 remains
以玫瑰金色的陀飛輪部件，色調上配搭均勻，高貴品味悠然而生。再要讚
unchallenged as the world’s thinnest tourbillon -- a sign,
的，還是其纖瘦身軀，把只有5mm厚的陀飛輪腕錶繫上手，輕盈貼手感覺
perhaps, that it’s a few years ahead in the game of
無出其右，坊間不少三針錶也做不了這效果。﹙約售$150,000﹚
mechanical watchmaking. Now this unrivalled movement is fitted into a 40-millimetre, DLC-coated titanium case. The 18-karat rose gold hands and crown, as well as the tourbillon parts in rose gold, add a touch of class. Also worthy of applause is its slim profile. The fivemillimetre-thick tourbillon watch is slight and snug on the wrist, a feel few chronometers in the market can match. (about $150,000)
BULGARI ULTRANERO SOLOTEMPO 18K rose gold
BULGARI ULTRANERO VELOCISSIMO
BULGARI SERPENTI INCANTATI ELITEGEN
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Jewelry 在Chanel 的創作之中，無論時裝、配飾、珠寶或名錶，都是突顯女士的 個人風格及個性而設計。上年推出的Chanel Coco Crush，就是為女士的 日常生活帶來亮麗氣派的高級珠寶系列，以高貴金屬材質製作的戒指， 壓有菱格紋呼應品牌招牌基因，而今年系列新添專利18K BEIGE米色金 及白金鑲鑽兩款戒指，進一步演繹時尚生活態度。 Chanel’s stylish collections of fashion, accessories, jewelry and watches are befitting salutes to feminine individuality and originality. The haute jewelry collection Chanel Coco Crush debuted last year added a touch of every-day sophistication. The rings in precious metal stand out, with Chanel’s signature crisscrossing diamond quilting motif. This year, two more styles have been added to the collection, in newly patented 18-karat beige gold and white gold. That’s two more ways to make a statement.
菱格新作
Signature individuality Chanel CoCo Crush
text, styling | Chappie photo | Mano model | Angie Ng (Model One) make up, Hair, Nail | Angel Wong
(所有價錢均為約價，僅供參考。) (All prices are estimated)
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（left） Chanel Coco Crush 18K BEIGE $2,700 米色金戒指，小型款。 Chanel Coco Crush 18K beige gold diamond ring, small size （right） Chanel Coco Crush 18K BEIGE $3,700 米色金戒指，中型款。 Chanel Coco Crush 18K beige gold diamond ring, medium size
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Jewelry
Chanel Coco Crush $21,500 18K白金鑽石戒指，中型款。 Chanel Coco Crush 18K white gold diamond ring, medium size
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（top） Chanel Coco Crush 18K $3,600 黃金戒指，中型款。 Chanel Coco Crush 18K yellow gold, medium size （bottom） Chanel Coco Crush 18K $12,000 白金鑽石戒指，小型款。 Chanel Coco Crush 18K white gold diamond, small size
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Fashion Headline 過去的巴黎時裝周總像個嘉年華會，到處充滿驚 喜。場外明星、時尚達人的花枝招展，場內充滿 舞台感的布置等，讓人興奮莫名。 但今季雨雪紛飛的氣候，似令時裝Show收起了 過往的浮華，沒有太多驚喜的布置及finale。惟有 各品牌相繼換血，Dior、Lanvin、Balenciaga的 新創作團隊、總監紛紛上場，嶄新風格令人耳目 一新。 text | Candy Choy
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01 Dior Show場外以巨型鏡牆反射扭曲的羅浮宮景像，未來感十足。 Outside the theatre, a giant mirrored wall conveyed a twisted image of the Louvre, adding to the futuristic feel. 02 Iris Van Herpen的show打破傳統，視覺效果屬全個時裝周最驚喜的一場。 Iris Van Herpen’s show broke with tradition. Its visual effects were, perhaps, the biggest surprise during the entire Fashion Week. 03 Senior Reporter, Candy Choy
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2016 Paris
Fall-Winter Fashion Week
2016巴黎秋冬時裝周 Paris Fashion Week is known for its carnival-like atmosphere, with surprises everywhere you look. Whether it’s the fashionable celebrities milling about outside the theatre, or the beautiful décor inside, excitement abounds. But this season, with persisting rain and snow outside, the show seemed more subdued
than usual. Thankfully, the fresh blood infused into the Dior, Lanvin and Balenciago creative teams generated some new styles.
Dior場館就像走進未來的隧道，配合兩位新創作總監Lucie Meier和Serge Ruffieux的首個系列，喻意一切重新開始。 The Dior hall was built to look like a tunnel into the future, which seemed appropriate, given this was the first collection combining the work of the fashion house’s two new creative directors, Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier. Indeed, a new beginning for Dior.
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秋冬潮流預告 Forecasting the Fall-Winter Trend 80's Fever 過往幾季都是七十年代嬉 皮復古風的天下，今季終於輪 到回歸八十年代，浮誇闊膊、 巨袖、單膊、金屬色盡出。 The past few seasons have been dominated by the hippy look of the 1970s. This season, we turn to the ‘80s, with exaggerated wide shoulders, giant sleeves, single shoulders and metallic decorations. Saint Laurent
Isabel Marant
Vetements
Sacai
Chloe
Balmain
Dior
Balenciaga
Acne Studios
Victorian Ruff 維多利亞浪漫風延續至 秋冬，但今季只有荷葉邊樽領 服仍能留下，全因能配出層次 感，同時能帶出女性媚態。 The romantic style of the Victorian era continues through the Fall-Winter season. But this season’s only Victorian element is the ruffled turtleneck, combining a nice texture with feminine charm.
Off-Shoulder Jackets 把春夏大熱的一字膊服 飾轉化成「海潮式」V字跌膊外 套，內裏不論襯樽領、圓領或 低領都型格十足。 The hot Spring-Summer off-the-shoulder look evolves into jackets with a wide V neckline that’s almost off the shoulder. A stylish match with turtleneck, round neckline and plunging neckline.
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College knits 書院風以條紋、格仔圖案 的針織上衣成功在今季回歸， 配搭長青的條子恤衫，中性中 見復古味。 The college style, with striped and checkered knits, returns with a bang this season. Matched with the ever-popular striped shirt, this look is both gender neutral and retro. Dries Van Noten
Isabel Marant
Maison Margiela
Be Chunky 秋冬服飾大多較簡約色 沉，浮誇的飾物正好有點睛之 效，尤其是今季的飾物特別巨 型，簡單戴一對耳環或頸飾已 極搶眼。 Most Fall-Winter clothing is simple and dark-coloured, so an exaggerated accessory piece can create a great focal point. This season’s accessories are particularly large, so a simple pair of earrings or a necklace can be Céline
Lanvin
Loewe
quite eye-catching.
Keep Tiny 手袋細小得有如添了肩 帶的銀包，卻能側孭或掛在腰 間，懶理容量實用與否，今季 就是要mini bag傍身才時尚。 The purse is so small it’s more like a wallet with straps. However, it is versatile, in that it can be slung cross the body, or hung on the waist. It may not be practical, given its small capacity, but this mini-bag certainly is trendy. Chanel
Kenzo
Louis Vuitton
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Party! People! 每逢時裝周，品牌都必會邀請各地名人撐場，除了讓他們先 睹為快欣賞最新系列外，通常也會在show後即晚舉行一些慶功派 對，時尚名人濟濟一堂，靚人靚景靚衫靚酒再加DJ打碟，令時裝 周更添熱鬧。 Fashion Week attracts celebrities from all over the world. In addition to letting them preview the lastet collections, they are also invited to the after parties. When you match the world’s beautiful people with fancy clothes and fancier wine, and blend in some smooth DJ music, Fashion Week is certainly the place to be.
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01 韓星CL最近進軍國際樂壇，而且又是Riccardo的好友，自然要飛來撐 好友Givenchy的show！ Korean star CL has recently entered the international music scene. She is a close friend of Riccardo Tisci, so it really was no surprise that she would fly in to support her friend’s Givenchy show! 02 荷李活女星Dakota Fanning超性感透視打扮出席Valentino的show。 Hollywood actress Dakota Fanning shows up at the Valentino show in a super-sexy, see-through dress. 03 韓星朴信惠是不少名牌show的座上客，今次在Chanel的show中以超淡妝配復 古造型出席，青春可人。 Korean star Park Shin-hye is a regular at designer-brand shows. This time, she appears at the Chanel show sporting a retro look with very light makeup, emphasizing her youthful attractiveness. 04 范冰冰以一身鮮紅皮革trench coat現身LV，盡顯 「范爺」 式霸氣。 Fan Bingbing shows up at the LV show in a bright, red-leather trench coat, showing off her characteristic domineering powers. 超模劉雯穿起大熱的維多利亞風恤衫配皮上衣、長褲，把女性的優雅與型格中 性風混合得相當完美。 Super model Liu Wen expresses her feminine elegance in this super-hot Victorian shirt, leather vest and leather pants while mixing in a bit of genderneutral flair for a perfect balance.
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05 楊丞琳抵冷穿上露臍裝出席LV的 「早場」 時裝show，十分給力！ Rainie Yang comes to the LV “early-bird” fashion show in a midriff shirt and steals the show! 06 韓星Jessica收起性感現身Kenzo的派對。 Korean star Jessica puts her sexiness under wraps for this Kenzo party.
Neat Reproduction利落再現 一向帶着中性氣質的Céline上季驟然轉化成性感女神，大量絲質、喱士等內衣元素和復 古風的燈籠袖造型，叫人眼前一亮。今季再度回歸簡約主義，大量earth tone色調夾雜橙、翠 綠等鮮明色彩，以利落的輪廓，加上扭曲的細節，營造層次感，Oversized的外套、寬鬆喇叭 褲等亦盡顯瀟灑氣質。為了配合簡約服飾，Phoebe Philo近年亦着重飾物的設計，今季最矚 目的要數那巨型的耳環、水晶腰飾，手袋方面則清一色以繞手腕的拿法，貫徹其率性風格。 The usually gender-neutral Céline suddenly, and refreshingly, turned into a sexy goddess last season with lots of lingerie elements, such as silk and lace, and the retro lantern-sleeve styling. This season the brand returns to minimalism, using earth tones as a base and mixing them with bright colours, such as orange and emerald green. With clean lines and twisted details to create texture, the oversized jackets and loose bellbottom pants also express a casual chic. In keeping with the minimalist style, designer Phoebe Philo also emphases accessories. This season, the most notable accessories are giant earrings, as well as a crystal waistband. Even the handbags are all wrist bags, to complete the carefree style.
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The Past and The Future過去與未來 自Nicolas Ghesquière上任以來，Louis Vuitton已經面目全非，但今季設計師試圖把我 們帶進未來與過去的交叉點，場館布置了五十七條破鏡銀色大柱，靈感來自法藝術家Justin Morin作品 《Melted Bones》 ，瀰漫着未來與懷舊的氣氛。系列有如跨越時空以及穿梭回憶的疆 界，從過往的設計如皮外套、安哥拉山羊毛衣、拉鏈貼身外套等擷取靈感，並加以改良至適 合現今的潮流。今季還加入富科技味道的針織連身裙，配上精心配搭的皮革及絲綢等名貴衣 料與精工，為這個穿透時間的系列增添活力時尚感。 Since Nicolas Ghesquière took charge of Louis Vuitton, the brand has undergone a metamorphosis. This season, the designer tries to take us to the intersection of Past and Future. The hall is decorated with 57 silver pillars made with broken mirrors. Inspired by French artist Justin Morin’s Melted Bones, Ghesquière has created an atmosphere that feels both futuristic and retro. The collection crosses time and space and shuttles between different memories. Drawing inspiration from such retro looks as leather jackets, angora sweaters, zippered tight-fit jackets, and matched with fine materials such as leather and silk and superior handiwork, this collection traverses through time with a lively and contemporary feel.
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Back to Reality回歸現實 傳聞82歲的Karl Lagerfeld快將退休，莫論屬實與否，老佛爺確實有點榮休 的先兆。經歷過機場、賭場、超市、小酒館等讓人目不暇給的騷場布置，今季 僅參照Rue Cambon總部的傢俬來製作一排排的金色座椅，回歸平淡。可能Karl Lagerfeld明白位置太遠的未能看清服飾的細節，所以今季人人也能坐front row， 讓人看清楚每個細節。系列亦為Chanel多年的經典來一次大回顧，九十多個造 型中，有如披肩般的一串串珍珠頸鏈、綴以山茶花的皮革草帽、各式各樣的變種 菱格、tweed jacket、little black dress等，盡現Chanel把經典與時尚融合的魅力。 Rumour has it that 82-year-old Karl Lagerfeld is about to retire. Whether the rumour is true or not, the master does seem like he is getting ready to call it quits. In the past, he has used an airport, a casino, a supermarket and a bar as show decorations, offering a lot of visual interest. This season, he has simply replicated the furniture of Chanel’s Rue Cambon headquarters to produce rows of gold seating, and the resulting look is more subdned than usual. However, Lagerfeld may simply have wanted to ensure everyone had a good seat and was able to see every detail. The collection is also a Chanel retrospective, featuring more than 90 styles. There are multiple strands of pearls adorning shoulders and necks, a leather hat bedecked with camellias, quilts in differing sizes and shapes, tweed jackets, and little black dresses. All this, to demonstrate the power of Chanel — from classic to contemporary.
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Rich Visual Effect豐富視覺 首季沒有了Raf Simons的Dior，令人充滿期待。團隊首席設計師Lucie Meier和 Serge Ruffieux今季首次攜手擔起大旗，自然用盡200%的努力，一方面保留Dior先生 的經典，另一方面發揮其無限創意。場外搭建巨型鏡面牆壁和圓形的隧道入口，寓意走 進未來的方向，系列以多元化的風格，配合大量不對稱的剪裁，展現都會女性的活力一 面，手繪印花絲絨及與鈕扣式束腰緞帶，重新詮釋Dior先生的緹花紋路和經典bar suit設 計。此外，今季的飾物如多層次的耳環、戒指和多夾層手袋亦呈現品牌的豐富性。 This is Dior’s first season without Raf Simons, so we awaited the handiwork of new designers Meier and Ruffeux with bated breath. We were rewarded with a show that preserved Dior’s classics and, at the same time, demonstrated infinite creativity. Outside, the giant mirrored wall and circular tunnel signalled a futuristic direction. The collection offers diverse styles, matched with many uneven hemlines, to emphasize the active side of the urban woman. Further, the hand-painted floral velvet and buttoned waist ribbon are reinterpretations of Dior’s jacquard pattern and classic bar suit designs. Finally, this season’s accessories include multiple-layer earrings, rings and handbags with multiple pockets to show off the brand’s rich textures.
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Ballet Fairy芭蕾仙子 Valentino每季都散發着獨有的仙氣，雖然上季突然遊走非洲土著部落，仍不 忘添上透視、羽毛等華麗細節。今季孖寶設計師Maria Grazia Chiuri和Pierpaolo Piccioli以生命與藝術的聯繫，拼湊出一場浪漫的「芭蕾舞劇」，隨着現場的鋼琴伴奏 聲響起，服飾亦跟隨着不同的節奏而變化，從一開始的全黑造型配中性短靴，到 慢慢演變為優雅的舞者，軍大衣披在蟬薄的連身裙上，花卉圖案蓬蓬裙當短上 裝穿，半截傘裙配襯新派芭蕾舞鞋，飄逸的袍形裙襯以絲襪及跳舞涼鞋等，展 現自由奔放的情懷。 Each season, Valentino exudes a unique, fairy-like elegance. Even though it suddenly wandered off to African tribal lands last season, the brand still retained elegant details, such as see-throughs and feathers. This season’s creative designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, fused life with art to put together a romantic “ballet drama”. With piano accompaniment, the clothing changed with the changes in rhythm. Starting with an all-black look, matched with gender-neutral booties, the style changed slowly into that of a graceful dancer. From a military jacket draped over a thin dress, to a floral-patterned tutu worn as a short top, to an umbrella skirt coupled with a pair of avant-garde ballet shoes, to a breezy robe dress matched with stockings and dancing sandals — everything gives off a free-spirited feeling.
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Mesmerizing Folksy Flair迷幻民族 為Givenchy效力長達十一年的Riccardo Tisci，由暗黑型格勢力漸漸走向女性的嫵媚， 上季以黑白單色配搭的喱士「內衣」風成功營造輕柔的一面，今季又再次回到眼花撩亂的圖案 設計。這次Riccardo引領大家來到埃及，以豐富的色彩和埃及極具標誌性的符號如荷魯斯之 眼、曼陀羅等製作成複雜的圖案，充滿神秘的民族色彩。 Riccardo Tisci has been with Givenchy for 11 years and has transformed the fashion house from one dominated by dark hues and black to a more feminine and alluring style. Last year, he used black and white to match with lace “underwear” and successfully create a softer look. This season, he turns to a dizzying pattern design. He leads everyone to Egypt, and utilizes rich colours and iconic symbols, such as the Eye of Horus and mandalas, to create complex patterns that evoke a mysterious folksy flair.
The Elegant Wanderer優雅浪人 飄逸浪漫感覺已成為Chloe的標記，今季就展開了一段浪遊之旅，即興隨心的配搭意 念，精緻的雪紡刺繡及紋理豐富的晚裝，跟皮革及柔軟羊毛互相映襯，形成浪漫主義與闖蕩 精神的強烈對比。荷葉邊、飄逸衣袖、喱士、花卉提花等依舊呈現，卻又同時具有小牛皮工 人褲、圍頸絲巾、牛仔短靴的中性復古味，率性不失優雅。 Romantic elegance has become symbolic of Chloé. This season begins with a romantic adventure. Casually and spontaneously mixing delicate chiffon embroidery and a texture-rich evening gown with leather and soft wool, the result is a sharp contrast between romanticism and the rugged adventure spirit. Romantic elements, such as flounced edges, flowing sleeves, lace and flowered jacquard, are still present. But so are small leather overalls, silk scarves and leather booties to add to the genderneutral retro look, giving a touch of elegance to the butch look.
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Intoxicatingly Sexy性感醉人 自從由Hedi Slimane掌舵後，Saint Laurent愈見活力，繼早幾季的英倫punk rock味，今 季更完全陷入八十年代的風韻，大量斜膊、闊膊、粗腰帶、金屬色布料，以haute couture的 華麗設計裱出恰似八十年代的浮誇登台服飾，充滿霸氣。 Since Hedi Slimane took the helm, Saint Laurent is livelier than ever before. Following the British punk rock style from several years ago, this season the brand is completely steeped in the ‘80s. There is a wide number of one-shoulder and broad-shoulder looks, thick belts and metallic fabric, all using the luxurious design of haute couture to highlight the extravagant show’s designs.
Eye-Catching Clothing吸睛衣飾 由JW Anderson接管的Loewe，已逐漸成為時尚達人的心水品牌，上季走未來感，金 屬、塑膠質料，配搭鏡片細節，來到今季卻一反常態，以貼身的上衣、bra top，甚至以橡筋 編織的連身裙展現女性曲線美，最吸引還有其可愛的手繪貓頭掛頸小袋，及一系列巨型金屬 飾物，為系列注入一點民族色彩。 Since J.W. Anderson took over leadership, Loewe has become the favourite brand among trend-setters. Last season, it featured a futuristic style with metal, plastic and mirror details. This season, it has uncharacteristically used tight tops, bra tops and even a dress made with rubber bands to accentuate the feminine curves. The most attractive piece is the cute hand-painted cat’s head that serves as a bag you wear like a necklace. A series of giant gold accessories provides added glamour.
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Fashion Headline
New Kid on the Block新官上任 告別Alexander Wang後，新官上任的Demna Gvasalia究竟會讓Balenciaga以怎樣的姿 態示人？這位新創作總監曾在Martin Margiela、Louis Vuitton擔任設計師，難怪在Balenciaga 處女show中，可見不同風格的服飾拼合和剪裁上的拆解重組，增添一份叛逆味道。 After bidding farewell to Alexander Wang, many wondered how Demna Gvasalia, who (once was) a designer at Martin Margiela and Louis Vuitton, would introduce Balenciaga to the public. The new creative director has combined different styles of clothing, as well as a disassemble-thenreassemble regrouping in the cutting. This all adds up to a taste of rebellion.
Fun Re-mix趣味拼湊 Miu Miu今季把觀眾和模特兒的距離拉近，讓人更容易欣賞到「物料皇后」的拼貼藝術， Miuccia Prada希望今個系列的服裝能夠表現有趣。首先是穿起牛仔布服的模特兒，然是配上 花布大褸、皮草、復古風針織，到最後的刺繡服，對比效果沒有令人失望，尤其是華麗的珍 珠毛毛拖鞋，把街頭與貴氣感再次拼現驚喜。 This season, Miu Miu shortened the distance between the audience and the model, allowing the public to appreciate the mixing-and-matching characteristics of “The Material Queen” more fully. It is the wish of Miuccia Prada to make the collection fun. We see the models sporting denim, which is then matched with long floral coats, fur coats, retro-knit jackets and, finally, embroidered jackets. Contrasts are not at all disappointing. In particular, the pair of gorgeous pearl-and-fur slippers is a nice surprise, combining a street look with a classy look.
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Low-key Luxury低調奢華 愛馬仕的奢華，除了能在其招牌手袋、絲巾中感受到之外，在今季的成衣系列中亦展視 出另一份簡約奢華的魅力。設計師Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski今季不再以線條勾勒立體曲線， 改以利用小羊皮、羊毛、絲綢的幾何拼接盡顯布料功力的同時，簡約的剪裁就如其配飾一 樣，不受潮流、時間所限，這種低調的奢華就是Hermès獨有的吸引之處。 The luxury of Hermès can not only be found in its signature handbags and scarves. In this season’s ready-to-wear collection, the brand again exudes a simple luxury. Designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski is no longer using complex lines to accentuate curviness. Instead, he has used a simple cut, unrestrained by trends, and has accessorized with lambskin, wool and silk in geometric shapes to highlight the uniqueness of each type of material. Thus, Hermès has successfully created a special space as a brand that speaks luxury in understated tones.
Bejewelled and Bedazzled珠光寶氣 對於Alber Elbaz去年被Lanvin解僱的事件，彷彿仍是個夢⋯⋯。今季我們沒看到絲毫 Elbaz的影子，服飾不再是剪裁敏銳、just fit的輪廓，換來的是80年代的華麗一面，雖然感覺 與以往大不同，但在浮誇的珠寶金屬頸鏈、耳環中，仍讓我們看見Lanvin的精神。 With the termination of artistic director Alber Elbaz last year, the Lanvin collection no longer has a clean-cut and just-fit outline. Instead, we see the luxury of the 1980s — a completely different feel. But somewhere in between the extravagant gold necklaces and gold earrings, we still catch a glimpse of the Lanvin spirit.
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Fashion news Leone日前於其溫哥華市中心專門店內，與Ferrari Maserati of Vancouver聯手舉行2016春夏時裝秀，展示Philipp Plein、Carolina Herrera、 Courrèges 及Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini等今季新裝。身穿各品牌全新系列服裝的 模特兒，以曼妙的貓步，從專門店上層徐徐走到設於地面 層的天橋上，吸引場內逾百位觀眾的目光。 Recently, Leone organized a 2016 Spring-Summer Fashion Show at its downtown Vancouver boutique, in partnership
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with Ferrari Maserati of Vancouver. The show displayed this season’s newest fashion from Philipp Plein, Carolina Herrera, Courrèges, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, etc.
春夏時裝秀
Leone
2016 Spring-Summer FaShion Show text, photo | Peonne Lung
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03 Dress : Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini
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今季上述品牌的時裝雲集不同風格，從搖滾、龐 克、浪漫，到復古太空感，設計別緻，可穿性高。 大會當晚同時為嘉賓準備了品酒小吃、巧克力、 名家音樂演奏，以及名車欣賞。 Leone於1987年創立，坐落在歷史悠久的Sinclair Centre，佔地25,000平方呎，一直為溫哥華高端男女 時裝及配飾的據點。 The models wore new collections by each brand and,
01• Dress: Just Cavalli 02• All Clothing: Versace 03• All Clothing: Carolina Herrera
Bag: Miu Miu
04• Coat: Moncler Gamme Rouge
Pant: Roberto Cavalli
Bag: Prada
05• Dress: Miu Miu
in graceful catwalk steps, moved slowly from the top
floor of the boutique, to the bridge on the ground floor —
06• Dress: Christian Dior
captivating the attention of more than 100 guests.
07• Coat: Moncler Gamme Rouge
From rock ‘n’ roll, to punk, to romantic, to retro space. the designs were both exquisite and wearable.
Bag: Miu Miu
Pant: Philipp Plein
Clutch: Miu Miu
08• Dress: Alexander McQueen
Bag: Prada
Event organizers prepared appetizers and chocolates, famous musicians performed and luxury cars were there for the guests to enjoy. Leone was established in 1987 and is located in the historic Sinclair Centre. The 2,300-square-metre shop has, from its inception, been the stronghold of Vancouver’s high-end men’s and women’s fashion and accessories.
音樂小天才的現場音樂演奏，觀眾讚歎不已。 The live performance by this musical prodigy wowed the audience.
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runway 身為當今最具爭議性的設計師，每當Hedi Slimane 發表新系列，總會惹起粉絲及反對派網上激辯。雖 然爭拗大部分時間是盲扁vs盲撐，偶爾也有言之有 物的高見。今季他的男裝系列，注定會令兩派進一 步撕裂。 Hedi Slimane is, perhaps, one of the most controversial designers of our time. He inevitably stirs heated debates in the social media whenever he launches a new collection.
Mid-top distressed sneaker with contrasting leather-tipped studded tongue US$595 text | 冰汪
有一種Couture，叫IndIe Couture
Saint Laurent A Couture NAmed INdIe
Mid waisted skinny jean in used black stretched denim US$590
Oversized distressed studded jean jacket in bleached black denim $1,825 (ssense.com)
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Patchwork motorcycle jacket in black, multicolor and silver leather US$9,900
Le Smoking oversized jacket with sequins palm trees at sunset $3,750 (polyvore.com)
Oversized patch parka in camouflage cotton gabardine US$1,890
春夏系列名為「Surf Sound」，明顯是由
The Spring/Summer collection is named “Surf Sound,” with 77 men’s and women’s
他慢慢落地生根的加州出發，把當地的陽光與
styles blending sun, beaches, palm trees, surfing, skateboards and surf punk. It
海灘、棕櫚樹、滑浪、滑板及surf punk等等
generates an obvious feel of California, where he is slowly taking root.
文化風光，共治一爐，創作出男男女女七十七 個造型。今次配合主題發掘了surf punk樂隊
He found surf punk band SWMRS (short for Swimmers) to work with his theme.
SWMRS（Swimmers的簡稱），主題曲〈Harry
Lyrics from their super-rock song Harry Dean -- like “I wanna be a rebel” and “I wanna
Dean〉勁搖勁滾，一開口便唱出「I wanna be
be James Dean” -- express unabashed rebellion. Slimane demonstrates nepotism for
a rebel. I wanna be James Dean.」，義無反
indie band fans again, sending the band’s brothers, Cole and Max Becker, onto the
顧地反叛。一如以往對indie band粉的溺愛，
catwalk with pastel green hair.
Hedi Slimane邀請了樂隊一對兄弟Cole及Max Becker行騷，圖中染了粉綠色頭髮的兩位，正 是他們。
The collection features familiar vintage clothes. The biker jacket, the baseball jacket, the camouflage military coat and the checkered shirts are just the things for vintage buffs.
系列中，包括熟口熟面的vintage衣服，那 些biker jacket、棒球褸、迷彩軍褸及格仔恤衫
By no means is it fresh and exciting in terms of originality, which gives critics a gap
等等，統統是古著迷至愛，論原創性，不算新
to cleave to. He seems to have put the emphasis on taking another spin of original
鮮刺激，難免成為反方最大攻擊缺口。在他的
creations.
眼中，似乎把重點放在二次創作，因此，在旋 轉燈光裝置下出場的衣服，超多加工，這裡刺
Hence, you can see lots of embellishments flashing under the spinning lights, from
繡出一幅太空人登月圖，那裡又用珠片砌出一
the embroidered scene of man on the moon, to the sequined head of a tyrannosaurus,
個暴龍頭，連Le Smoking衣領都是一幅珠片棕
sequined palm trees on the collar of Le Smoking and dense patchworks or rivets on
櫚樹圖，biker jacket不是密集式patchwork，
the biker jacket.
便是窩釘。一批看似爛撻撻的衣服，加入一點 haute couture工藝，變得前所未有的高貴，
The grungy-looking clothes are given a touch of haute couture and turned into
他的indie-couture，貫徹他對indie音樂入血入
something sophisticated. His indie couture reflects his infatuation with indie music,
肉的愛，成功衝破傳統couture金碧輝煌的防
and his success in surging past the glamorous threshold of traditional couture to make
線，展現出更具時代感的couture風貌。
designs contemporary. available at YSL.com/ca
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Men’s Picks 不羈的費多拉
The Rebellious FedoRa text | Clarence Lau photo | Jack assisted by Hin
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歷險電影主角到近代的荷李活明星Michael Jackson、Johnny Depp以及Justin Timberlake 等，眾人的招牌造型都離不開頭上那頂紳士帽，它的正確名字叫Fedora，一種帽冠上部 及前兩方皆有凹位的絨帽款式。 In the movie classics, lead actors like Humphrey Bogart, James Cagney and Gregory Peck incorporated the gentleman’s hat as part of their signature look. Now, Hollywood stars such as Johnny Depp, Justin Timberlake and Leonardo DiCaprio have also adopted the chapeau.
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1. Tasteless the classic camel fedora hat $198 (kapok. com) 2. Rag & bone Hackman felted-wool fedora hat US$155 (mrporter.com) 3. Maison Michel mixed colours soft fedora hat $TBD 4. Larose grosgrain-trimmed rabbit-felt fedora hat US$295 (mrporter.com) 5. Maison Michel Andre showerproof fur-felt trilby hat $810 (matchesfashion.com) 6. Maison Michel contract stitched panel fedora hat $TBD 7. Lock & Co. voyager felt trilby – camel fedora hat US$350 (thearmoury.com) 8. Maison Michel Henrietta rabbit-fur felt hat $945 (matchesfashion.com)
To be more specific, they’ve taken to the fedora,
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a brimmed felt hat that is typically creased lengthwise down the crown and pinched near the front on both sides. 05
This hat was actually popularized first by a woman. In 1882, French author Victorien Sardou penned a play
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entitled Fédora, which featured famous actress Sarah Bernhardt as female lead Princess Fédora Romanoff, who enjoyed cross-dressing as a man. In the play, the princess often wore a man’s dress hat that had a crease down the middle of the crown and soft edges. The name Fédora actually comes from the Greek Theodora, which means “God’s gift.” In 1924, Prince Edward of Britain started wearing this style of hat 08
and immediately created a buzz in the world of men’s fashion.
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In the early 20th century, Orthodox Jews started incorporating the fedora into their daily dress, and that tradition continues today. The popularity of the 這種帽子原來是由女士帶頭興起。1882年，法國作家Victorien Sardou 創作了一個劇目叫《Fédora》，由當時的著名女演員Sarah Bernhardt扮演 喜歡男裝女著的主角Princess Fédora Romanoff，劇中她經常以一頂帽
fedora reached its zenith in the mid-20th century, but unfortunately the hat also became synonymous with gangsters, such as Al Capone.
冠中部折下、帽邊柔軟的男士禮帽示眾。Fédora的名字其實源自希臘語 「theodoros」 ，意指上帝的禮物。
By the late 1950s, dress had become more casual and the fedora gradually disappeared from fashion
1924年，英國愛德華王子開始佩戴之後，立即在男裝界引起風潮，除
trends. Although it enjoyed a brief renaissance during
了因為優雅的外形之外，更兼備擋風雨的實際功能；二十世紀初期，正統派
the ‘70s and ‘80s, it took the notoriety of current
猶太教徒將Fedora融入日常衣著，這個傳統至今仍在；二十年代中期的受
Hollywood stars to return the fedora to mainstream
歡迎程度更到達頂峰，可惜也不幸地與流氓的形象沾上關係；到了五十年代
men’s fashion.
後期，非正裝衣著開始流行，它逐漸消失於時裝潮流之中；七十及八十年代 曾經短暫冒起過一陣子。
Among new fedora products, those produced by Paris brand Maison Michel are the most fashionable.
近年，因為澎湃的明星效應，Fedora正式大舉回歸。新品當中以巴黎
It even had the courage to reconfigure the structure of
品牌Maison Michel最有時裝味，有勇氣將帽子解構重組，再配一條腰果花
the hat and add a new paisley bandana, achieving an
bandana頭巾，感覺誇而不俗氣。
impressive, unconventional look.
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Scent Also available: Hydrating face and body balm 200 ml Hair and body shower gel 200 ml Hand and body foaming gel 300 ml Fragranced soap 100 g (choice of three in a gift box)
Eau de néroli doré Bottle and spray $149.00/100 ml
她和他的幽香
His & Her
IntroducIng two new Fragrances From Hermès text | Leslie Yip photo | Hermès, Cesar Lucadamo, Wesley Vieira Fonseca
讓她緋紅的火參 獨特、大膽、清新。Eau de rhubarbe écarlate不僅是
For Her: Eau de rhubarb écarlate Unique, bold and fresh, Eau de rhubarbe écarlate is an interplay of smell
怡人的香氣，也是顏色視覺的衝擊。這款以草本植物香為
and colour. More vegetal than citrus, it evokes the sensation of inhaling the
主題的香水，讓人聯想到花園裡茂盛生長的火參。
scent of a stem of rhubarb, just before it’s picked.
這款新作，出自於日內瓦出生的著名調香師Christine
Its creator, Geneva-born Christine Nagel, launched her perfume-
Nagel手筆。Christine於1997年在巴黎開始她的調香
making career in Paris in 1997. Her early creations included instant classics
事業。她早期的得意之作，包括Narciso Rodriguez
like Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian), Jimmy Choo
for Her (與Francis Kurkdjian合作), Jimmy Choo Flash 和 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels系列等。在加盟愛
Flash and Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection. After several years at Jo Malone London, Nagel joined Hermès, to work alongside Jean-Claude Ellena.
馬仕與Jean-Claude Ellena共事之前，她曾效力Jo Malone Housed in a luscious ruby-coloured glass bottle, the new scent is brisk and
London。
invigorating. 在甜美而緋紅的玻璃樽，這款迷人香水散發著活 躍與爽朗的個性。「我一直都很喜歡火參的雙重特質。」
“I have always liked the duality of rhubarb,” Nagel says. “It is a two-fold
Christine說：「而且是視覺加嗅覺的兩種雙重特質：從綠色
duality, both visual and olfactory. Its green colour morphs into red. From acidic
轉變成紅色；味道從清脆微酸轉變成甘香柔順。」
and crisp, its scent becomes smooth and velvety.”
就像畫家畫龍點睛地美化其作品，Christine Nagel選
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Like a painter who concentrates on the detail of the subject to intensify it,
擇融入提煉過的白麝香，讓火參的細緻香氣發揮得淋漓盡
Nagel has chosen to amplify the delicate olfactory traits of rhubarb, instilling the
致。
alluring scent of refined white musk.
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為他盛放的橙花
For Him: Eau de néroli doré
Neroli橙花油是從橙花萃取的精華，名字源自十七世紀的意
Neroli is an essence extracted from orange blossoms and is named
大利Nerola公主。據說她特別喜歡橙花的芬芳，手套上必定會
after the 17th-century Italian Princess of Nerola, who used it to perfume
噴灑橙花花露水。
her gloves.
Eau de néroli doré是香水調配大師Jean-Claude Ellena自
Eau de néroli doré is the fifth creation in the Hermès Cologne family
2004年加入愛馬仕後創作的第五款古龍水。他的作品，題材充
by Jean-Claude Ellena, who joined the house in 2004 as its exclusive
滿自由幻想。這款以橙花油為主調的古龍水，靈感源自他年輕
perfumer. Each of his creations is an expression of craftsmanship and
時在地中海沿岸的回憶。
disciplined fantasy. This citrus-dominant cologne is said to be inspired by memories of his Mediterranean youth.
「當我開始從事調配師這個行業時，首先要學會如何提取素 材的精華，當中也包括橙花。」他說：「當你走進蒸煉的世界，
“When I started out in the profession of perfumer, I learned to distill
全身如淋香氣之中，隨而融入其中，連自己也變成香氣的一部
raw materials, including orange blossom,” he says. “When you enter the
分。
world of stills, you are also immersed in a scent. Impregnated with it, you become it.
「尤記得當時我身上蓋滿了濃烈的橙花香。為了尋回這種感 覺，我決定打破只用小量橙花油的慣例，盡情去揮霍，甚至浪 費，到達一個史無前例的地步。」
“My entire being was fragranced with orange blossom. To reproduce this sensation, where normally one uses very little neroli, I used it abundantly, with abandon, as never before.”
他的地中海回憶，除了橙花之外，還有金色的陽光和誘人 的食用香料。因此，他在古龍水還加入了番紅花，名符其實打 造了金色的回憶。
To pay tribute to his cherished Mediterranean sunshine and its spices, he enhanced this golden neroli with saffron.
Also available: Hydrating face and body balm 200 ml Hair and body shower gel 200 ml Hand and body foaming gel 300 ml Fragranced soap 100 g (choice of three in a gift box)
Eau de rhubarb écarlate Bottle and spray $149.00/100 ml Available at Hermès boutiques, select Holt Renfrew locations, Saks Fifth Avenue in Toronto and select Hudson's Bay locations. 於Hermès專門店、指定Holt Renfew門店、多倫多市中心Saks Fifth Avenue及指定Hudson’s Bay門店有售。
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Scent
Le Parfum Hermès
The Hermès adventure began in 1837, when harness maker Thierry Hermès opened a workshop in Paris. Fragrance entered the
愛馬仕的傳奇，由1837年馬具工匠Thierry Hermès在巴黎設
house of Hermès in the 1930s and evolved in unison with the other
立了馬具製作坊正式開始。
métiers.
愛馬仕的精彩香氛之旅，則於1951年Edmond Roudnitska 調 配的Eau d'Hermès問世後才真正開啟。之後，許多鼎鼎大名的調
d’Hermès, created by Edmond Roudnitska. Since then, there has
香師都曾為愛馬仕調配香水，屢創經典，讓品典立香水界的一哥地
been a succession of creations from the great names of perfumery,
位。
all contributing to Hermès’ commitment to the métier of fragrance, as
The Hermès olfactory adventure began in 1951 with Eau
both artisan and artist. 愛馬仕的香水系列，可以分成以下4個類別： The “library” of Hermès perfumes can be grouped under four categories:
1
傳記 - 香水系列 就像傳記故事中多姿多彩的人物情境一樣，傳記香水系列要
在一段持續的長時間中散發延展而出，從愛馬仕的豐富傳統文化 中汲取靈感。不論是較經典的傳記如Calèche驛馬車或Équipage 男士香水，或是較新近的傳記如Eau des Merveilles橘彩星光香水 或是今年慶祝十週年的Terre d’Hermès愛馬仕大地男士香水－它們 都分別訴說著一段獨特的故事。
The Novels Like stories filled with characters and events, the Novel-Fragrances
expand time with their lasting presence, and draw their inspiration from the heritage of Hermès. Whether it’s one of the well-loved classics, like Calèche and Équipage, or the “new novels” – Eau des Merveilles or Terre d’Hermès – which are celebrating their 10th anniversary this year, each perfume tells its own unique story.
散文 - 香水系列 就像精辟俐落的短篇故事一樣，散文香水系列包括了花園系
The Novellas Like shorter tales with a more limited number of characters and
列和古龍水系列。花園系列的靈感源自愛馬仕的年度主題，勾畫
events, the Novella collection includes the Gardens and Colognes
出一片感性的新天地。而愛馬仕古龍水系列則表達出大方又豐富
series. The Garden fragrances establish a new sensory geography
的情感。
inspired by the annual themes at Hermès, while the Colognes are generous, figurative expressions of simple pleasures.
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詩歌 - 香水系列 猶如日本短詩俳句一樣，既樸實又濃烈的詩歌香水系列創 出一種既珍貴又奇特的香水風格。在Hermèssence愛馬仕聞香 珍藏系列內，題材簡潔直接的方式命名，表達出細微的感覺和 不可言喻的感受。今年五月，Hermès還會推出它們系列的第13 章－鈴蘭香味的 Muguet Porcelain.
The Poems Like haikus, simple and intense, the Poem fragrances reinvent a precious and unusual aspect of nature. In the Hermessence collection, raw materials produce subtle sensations and ineffable impressions. This May, Hermès will be launching the collection’s 13th fragrance – Muguet Porcelain, with the scent of lily of the
3
valley.
夢幻系列
4
夢幻香氛讓靈動的芬芳瀰漫整個家居空
The Reveries
間－夢幻系列是Parfum de la Maison主要 香水系列之一。此系列以五款三種大小
Diffusing dream-like scents of the
的陶瓷杯香氛蠟燭起首，包括: Des
home, the Reveries is part of the new
pas sur la neige雪地腳步，Fenetre
Parfum de la Maison fragrance line.
ouverte 敞開心窗，Temps de
Five Reveries, in the form of candle
pluie 雨中氣息，Champ libre
bowls available in three sizes, initiate the
自由原野和A cheval躍馬馳
collection: Des pas sur la neige, Fenêtre
聘！
ouverte, Temps de pluie, Champ libre and À cheval !
著名調香師 Christine Nagel和Jean-Claude Ellena是Le Parfum Hermès背後的靈魂。 Perfumer/designer Christine Nagel and perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena are the brains and noses behind Le Parfum Hermès.
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Beauty News
提亮士 ing ten 貼 gh 小 bri skin o t he t ps
Ti
「亞洲女性特別重視美白課題， 加上近年強調白皙度及水潤度的 韓妝風氣持續盛行，再進一步推 專業化妝師 高時下女生對擁有如珍珠般亮白 Cac Leung 剔透肌膚的熱熾追求。要成功締造 Professional Make-up Artist 亮白美肌，建議先做好防曬措施，以阻止紫 外線的侵害。下一步就是使用合適的美白及 淡斑產品，自己尤其注重淡斑這一環，不論是早上還是晚間，一 定會在最易出現色斑的顴骨位置塗搽重點淨斑產品。另一個不可 忽視的部位就是眼周，眼部肌膚只要稍稍變得暗啞，便會予人缺 乏神采的感覺，故上妝前我會選用Melvita的有機花研美白眼部精 華，借助當中的有機雛菊及水仙等白花美白精華成份，可令雙眼 回復明亮，連帶面色也顯得白皙過來。」 “Asian women are particularly concerned about having fair and flawless skin. Additionally, the recent Korean cosmetic trend, which emphasizes whiteness and moistness, is still dominant, which drives the strong desire of ladies to pursue pearl-like luminous, translucent skin. “To successfully create brightness and lightness in one’s skin, my first suggestion is to be vigilant about sunscreens, in order to protect the skin from the harm of UV rays. The next step is to use appropriate lightening and dark-spot reducing products. “I, myself, place the utmost importance on the reduction of dark spots. Whether in the morning or at night, I will put dark spot reduction products on the cheek, which is the prime location for dark spots to appear. The other area that should not be ignored is the area around the eyes. Even if the skin around the eyes becomes ever-so-slightly dull, the person is going to look less energetic. “So, before I put my makeup on, I would choose Melvita’s Organic Nectar Bright Brightening Eye Serum. The serum consists of brightening essence from organic white flowers, such as the daisy and narcissus (daffodil), which makes the eyes bright and thus makes the skin look lighter.”
Melvita Nectar Bright brightening eye serum $48/15 ml (melvita.com)
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美白課題年年講，從過去女性只懂
Achieving and maintaining beautiful skin is a lifelong challenge.
得追求白皙美肌，到今天着眼於肌
In past years, it was a search for a lighter, fairer skin colour, but
膚亮白度與均勻度，令美白成為了
today the emphasis is on brightness and an even skin tone.
全年無休的必修課，更推動了各大
Thus, all the major beauty brands are being pushed to
美容品牌積極研發美白亮肌產品，
diligently research and develop skin brightening and lightening
以達成女士們渴望擁有亮白肌膚的
products to enable women to realize their dreams of fair and
心願。
flawless skin.
要阻截黑色素的沉澱與形成，並擊
To prevent the precipitation and formation of melanin, one
退面上的頑固色斑，必需多方面的
needs to use a wide array of skin products in conjunction with
修護產品相配合，今日特別為大家
one another. Today, we have gathered great skin helpers from
搜羅各大美白好幫手，為新一場亮
far and wide to embark on a revolution to achieve luminous
肌革命正式展開行動。
skin.
全方位亮白提案
A CompreheNsive plAN for Skin Brightening and Lightening text | 張琬雯 photo | 黃幹文 model | Bruna P.（CalCarries） make up, hair | Mon Cheng（Annie G.）
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全能美白修護
Comprehensive Care and Protection of Fair and Flawless Skin 明白新世代女性視細緻均勻、亮白剔透的膚色為終極目 標，各大美容品牌亦盡量緊貼市場的真正需要。只見芸芸新登場 的美白面霜及乳液產品之中，同時蘊含高效美白、保濕及其他修護 成份，護膚功效更為全面，若然持續使用，白皙、富亮澤的健康肌膚 定必指日可待。 Understanding that the modern woman desires fine, even, bright and translucent skin, every major cosmetic brand tries to keep up with market demand. Taking a look at all the brightening face creams and lotions that have hit the market recently, they all have highly effective brightening, moisturizing and other protective elements. If used continuously, the skin will become lighter, brighter and healthier.
(left to right) Yves Saint Laurent Blanc Pur Couture emulsion milky lotion HK$760/50 ml (available in HK) 呈冰涼啫喱狀的乳液，不但為肌膚注滿水份，另含有聚糖妍亮複合物與牡丹花成份，能調節黑色素的 製造，從而達至淡化黑色素及色斑的作用，另一方面，亦能為肌膚紓緩減壓。 This milky lotion comes in a cold gel form. Not only does it infuse the skin with hydration, it also contains Glyco Bright and tree peony extract to regulate the production of melanin and lighten the dark spots. At the same time, the lotion provides comfort and relaxation to the skin. Lancome Blanc Expert ultimate brightening hydrating emulsion $92/50 ml (thebay.com) 配備升級配方的全方位瞬白亮肌乳液，採用了革命性膚色平衡科技，另結合積雪草、玫瑰及薄荷萃取 成份，重點提升肌膚淨白度，以及具有軟化肌膚之效。 Equipped with an enhanced formula, this comprehensive instantly lightening and brightening emulsion utilizes a revolutionary technique to balance the colour of the skin. The emulsion also contains extracts from centella, rose and mint. It has the effect of increasing the fairness and suppleness of the skin. Givenchy Doctor White white radiant hydra-whitening youth emulsion $84/50 ml (harrods.com) 透過主要成份之一的智能美白定序複合物，浮液可有助改善色素沉澱，膚色暗黃及鬆弛問題，另蘊含 了保濕的透明質酸，令肌膚保持水潤飽滿。 One of the emulsion’s main ingredients is a smart whitening-sequencing complex. The emulsion improves the precipitation of melanin, and solves the problems of dull and flabby skin. It also contains a hydrating hyaluronic acid, which keeps the skin moist and full. (left to right) Nuxe White brightening renewing night cream US$38/50 ml (sasa.com) 晚霜既加入了有助均勻膚色的白番紅花成份，同時間亦蘊含白羽扇豆及葵花 油，對促進細胞更新及滋潤肌膚起正面作用。 This night cream contains white crocus essence, which helps even out skin tone. It also has white lupine and sunflower oil, which helps increase cell renewal and skin hydration. Melvita Nectar Bright brightening cream $57/40 ml (melvita.com) 面霜內含海百合及水仙等成份於一身，另配合低份子量透明質酸，能糾正膚 色暗啞及加強保濕。特別添加的礦物粉末則具有柔焦作用，達至即時提亮之 效。 This face cream contains sea lily and narcissus essence, coupled with low molecular count hyaluronic acid. It can correct the dullness of the skin and increase moisture. The specially added mineral powder instantly makes the skin radiant. The Body Shop Drops of Light pure healthy brightening day cream $34/50 ml (thebodyshop.com) 質感保濕、易吸收的面霜，以北大西洋紅海藻精華及維他命C衍生物作為主 打成份，淡化色斑之餘，亦能抑制色素的形成及輸送，使肌膚保持亮澤。 With a texture that is hydrating and easy to absorb, this face cream utilizes North Atlantic red seaweed essence and vitamin C derivatives as its main ingredients. Not only does it lighten the dark spots, it also controls the formation and transfer of melanin, thus brightening the skin.
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（top to bottom） Giorgio Armani Crema Bianca supreme brightening concentrate $320/30 ml (thebay.com) 從白曇花中抽取出來的活性成份，能高效抵禦自由基及提升肌膚亮白度，故精華 素以此作為成份，另配合非洲再生復活精華，再進一步阻截黑色素形成。 The active ingredients from white epiphyllum are highly effective in preventing free radicals and also increase brightness. Thus, an essence that uses this ingredient, together with a revitalizing essence from Africa, further prevents the formation of melanin. Melvita Nectar Bright brightening essence even-toned complexion US$56/30 ml (sasa.com) 除蘊含能改善黑色素沉澱問題的白花精華配方，另糅合可預防色斑及加強提升亮澤 度的檸檬及木瓜萃取，對防止膚色暗啞發揮明顯作用。 In addition to a formula made with white flower essence that can alleviate the creation of a melanin deposit, lemon and papaya extractions, which prevent dark spots and increase radiance, are also added. This essence shows clear results in preventing the skin from turning dull.
（top to bottom） La Mer the brightening essence $360/30 ml (cremedelamer.ca) 結合了Miracle Broth活膚精華及酸橙茶精華，同時加入了最新研創的海洋妍亮酵 母，令質地水潤輕盈的精華素，具有減褪色斑及色素不均的效用。 Combining the skin revitalizing Miracle Broth essence with lime tea essence, and adding the newly developed ocean brightening yeast, this moist and light essence is effective in lightening dark spots and improving the evenness of skin tone. Laneige bright renew original serum $59/40 ml (sephora.com) 全新升級版精華原液，採用包含綠茶蛋白、松露酵母精華及三白草萃取的專利美白 技術Advanced Melacrusher研製而成，重點針對偏黃、暗啞及泛紅問題，亦能強效 擊退黑色素。 This newly improved original serum utilizes green tea, egg whites, truffle yeast extract and saururaceae extract. This was developed using the patented Advanced Melacrusher technique. The serum aims at solving the problems of yellowness, dullness and redness, and is also effective in fighting back melanin. Chantecaille Blanc Gardenia brightening essence $238/30 ml (holtrefrew.com) 精華素引用了獨家研發的植物幹細胞配方，包括能均勻膚色的梔子花萃取、去除色 斑的扇薺及大豆萃取，以及阻止色素沉澱的維他命B3，以全方位提升肌膚亮白度。 The essence utilizes an exclusively developed plant stem-cell formula, using the skin tone evening gardenia extract, the dark-spot removing fan chestnut and soybean extract and melanin deposit-preventing vitamin B. This increases the brightness and lightness of the skin from all directions.
精華新特搜
In search of new essence 當肌膚受到紫外線、空氣污染等外在環境的刺激與侵害，加上 新陳代謝隨着年齡增長而減慢，均有機會激活了黑色素的形成，導 致膚色變得暗黃、不均勻，久而久之，色素積聚於肌膚底層，最終引發色 斑的形成。由此可見，要打造亮白無瑕的肌膚，必須從根源阻截黑色素的沉 澱。一支專為美白而設的精華素，固然不可缺少，通過當中的高效美白成份，成 功從預防與擊退兩大方向，抑制肌膚底層的黑色素，也能趁着色斑浮現之前，為肌 膚提供更徹底的保護。 When UV rays, air pollution and other external environmental factors stimulate and harm the skin, melanin forms. Coupled with the slower metabolism that comes with aging, it makes the skin look dull, yellow and uneven. As time goes on, the melanin deposits stay on the lower layer of the skin and eventually lead to the formation of dark spots. Thus, in order to create bright, fair and flawless skin, one must prevent the deposit of melanin at its root cause. A bottle of essence specially created to lighten the skin is a must. Through the highly effective lightening ingredients in the essence, the melanin on the bottom layer of the skin is controlled. At the same time, before the dark spots appear, the essence provides thorough protection to the skin.
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Beauty News （top to bottom） Sulwhasoo Snowise EX Brightening Mask $178/ 10 masks (nordstrom.com) 呈透明凝膠質地的面膜，每片均蘊含了豐富的白參成份，能迅速改善膚色不均、加速骨膠原合成，以及消除沉澱於底層 的黑色素，令肌膚回復亮白、有彈性。 The mask has a transparent gel texture. Each piece is full of white ginseng essence, which improves the uneven skin tone. It also accelerates the synthesis of collagen and reduces the melanin deposits on the bottom layer of the skin. The result is a bright and elastic skin. Melvita Nectar Bright brightening exfoliation mask $39/ 50 ml (melvita.com) 面膜將美白及磨砂功效結合為一，先透過微細磨砂矽珠，去除引致肌膚暗啞的老化角質，另混入白花精華配方，讓膚色 保持均勻、有光澤。 The mask combines lightening and exfoliation functions. First, the silicone microbeads gently rub away the dead cells that make the skin look dull. Then it adds a white flower formula, making the skin more radiant. Sisley Phyto-blanc ultra lightening mask $140/ 60 ml (selfridges.com) 專為亞洲女士而設的面膜，除了糅合了白陶土、同時混入了白桑椹精華及檸檬成份，深層潔淨肌膚之餘，亦有助改善膚 色暗啞及預防黑色素之形成。 This is a mask specially made for Asian women. It combines kaolin, white mulberry essence and lemon extract to cleanse the skin deeply, improve the dullness and prevent the formation of melanin. La Biosthestique Blanc de Beaute lightening biocellulose mask HK$1,200/ 6 masks (available in HK) 由天然發酵椰子奶製成的生物纖維面膜，不單能緊貼面部輪廓，配方中的芥末油、大豆異黃酮複合物及青檸萃取成份， 亦有效淡化色斑、均勻膚色及刺激細胞更新。 This bio-fibre mask is made from naturally fermented coconut milk, mustard oil, soy isoflavones and lime extract that sticks closely to the face. It is effective in lightening dark spots, evening the skin tone and stimulating the revitalization of cells. (top to bottom) Burt’s Bee brightening eye treatment US$20/ 10 g (burtsbees.com)(US only) 眼霜的主打成份為雛菊萃取，既可改善眼部浮腫，更有效阻截眼周肌膚的色斑及黑色素沉 澱，讓雙眼保持明亮有神。 This eye cream’s main ingredient is daisy extract. Not only does it reduce puffiness, but it also prevents dark spots. This, in turn, keeps the eyes bright and energetic. Dior Prestige White Collection satin brightening eye crème with sunscreen SPF 15 HK$1,350/ 15 ml(available in HK) 眼霜配方主要由礦物過濾成份所組成，既有效減褪眼周肌膚的黑斑及暗啞現象，持續使用 改善浮腫問題。 This eye cream’s formula is primarily made with mineral filter components. Not only is it effective in reducing the dark spots and dullness around the skin, it also reduces puffiness when used continuously. L’Occitane Reine Blanche illuminating eye care & mask $94/ 15 ml (yesstyle.ca) 可作眼膜使用的眼霜，主要借助繡線菊精華及咖啡因成份，以提升眼周肌膚的亮白度。特 別研製金屬按摩頭設計，能一邊塗搽，一邊為肌膚帶來冰涼鎮靜感覺。 This eye cream can also be used as an eye mask. The main ingredients are spiraea essence and caffeine. The cream increases the brightness and lightness of the skin around the eyes. Its specially developed metallic massage head makes the skin feel cool and calm when the cream is applied.
加倍呵護 More Pampering
使用具美白功效的基本修護產品之餘，大家不妨多 做一步，定期為面龐敷上有提亮及均勻膚色作用的面膜，進 一步去黃及改善暗啞，亦能為肌膚注入充足養份。除此之外， 須知道眼周肌膚亦有機會遭受膚色不均及色素沉澱問題所困擾，故 一眾品牌亦貼心地推出眼部肌膚專屬的亮白產品，助雙眼重拾亮采。 In addition to using basic skincare products that have lightening effects, folks may want to go further, and regularly use a mask that increases brightness and evenness. This further reduces the yellowness and dullness of the skin, and also infuses nutrients into the skin. In addition, the skin around the eyes may also be plagued by problems with uneven skin tone and melanin deposits. So many brands have also introduced a special lightening product specifically for the eye area in order to restore radiance to the eyes.
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截擊色斑
Intercepting Dark Spots 倘若防守關口不幸失守，讓色斑有機會浮現於 面上，這時候除了使用美白精華及面霜等產品，亦建議 大家選用專門針對色斑問題的修護用品，減低面上的色斑愈 趨頑固及明顯。使用淡斑產品的時候，可把精華集中塗抹於 色斑位置，讓成份更容易滲透入肌膚底層，集中火力對抗黑色 素沉澱，令減褪色斑的效用更明顯。 If preventing the onset of dark spots has been unsuccessful, we suggest that in addition to using lightening essence and face cream, one needs to use repair products to minimize them. You can apply the essence solely to the dark spots, allowing the ingredients to permeate to the bottom layer of the skin and concentrate on fighting the melanin deposit.
(left to right) Chanel Le Blanc intensive brightening spot care – day and night duo $155/ 7 ml x 2 (thebay.com) 分為日間及夜間專用的淡斑筆，前者蘊含天竺葵萃取精華，能抑制色 素沉澱，後者則加入了山姜萃取精華，重點提升表皮新陳代謝及淡化 色斑。兩者同時混入TXC美白份子及珍珠萃取成份，同樣有助預防色 斑形成。 There are lightening pens to use, both day and night. The former is made from geranium extracts and can control the melanin deposits. The latter includes alpinia extracts, whose main function is to increase the metabolism of the top layer of the skin and also lighten the dark spots. Both also contain TXC lightening ingredients and pearl essence, which also helps to prevent the formation of dark spots. Sofina White Professional whitening stick A HK$390/ 3.7 g (available in HK) 使用時只需於色斑位置作重點塗搽，借助其集中滲透技術，以及 成份中的羅馬洋甘菊精華及桔梗美白精華，能加快阻截黑色素的增 生，從而快速減淡頑固色斑。 You need only to apply this product to the location of the dark spots. Using the concentrated absorption technique, and the Roman chamomile essence and bellflower lightening essence, this product prevents the formation of melanin, and also quickly lightens the stubborn dark spots. (left to right) Shiseido White Lucent micro-targeting spot corrector $150/ 30 ml (thebay.com) 以擊退全面色斑為目標，產品採用了嶄新的微米擊斑技術，能促進肌 膚新陳代謝，並清除滿佈過量黑色素的老化細胞，令色斑得以減淡。 This product is aimed exclusively at tackling dark spots. The spot corrector increases skin metabolism and cleans the aging cells that are full of melanin, thus lightening the dark spots. Melvita Nectar Bright brightening concentrate targeted corrective action HK$490/ 30 ml (available in HK) 重點擊退頑固色斑的修護液，既糅合海百合及水仙等五種白花精華， 亦加入能重點減褪色斑的泡葉藻萃取，一次過修正及預防色素積聚。 最重要是質地十分保濕，用後肌膚倍感水潤。 This corrective agent aims at attacking stubborn dark spots. The product includes essences from five white flowers, including sea silly and narcissus, as well as the dark-spot lightening ascophyllum nodosum extract. It repairs, as well as prevents, melanin deposits and moisturizes at the same time.
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Living Origin 愛好收藏書籍和藝術品的屋主，希望可
The owner of this house is an avid collector of books and art, yet wanted to give
以將其2,600平方呎的Condo加入更現代化
his 2,600-square-foot condo a more contemporary look. So, he turned to designer
的設計，於是Jodie Rosen Design的設計師
Jodie Rosen, who opted to incorporate hundreds of the owner’s cherished pieces
Jodie Rosen把屋主數以百計的收藏融入設
into her plan. Here, she has expertly used every square inch of space and every bit of
計內，善用Condo內的每一寸空間和資源打
resource within the condo to create a private art space.
造一個私人的藝術空間。整個項目包括改造 客廳、浴室和廚房，而項目焦點就是以菱形
The entire project involved makeovers of the library, living room, bathroom and
書櫃做牆的圖書館。她表示圖書館的設計靈
kitchen. In the library, the focus was the use diamond-shaped bookshelves as walls.
感源自屋主的藝術及圖書收藏品，大小顏色
As Rosen said, “the design of the library was inspired by the homeowner’s art and
不一的藝術品，在廚房、客廳及浴室的基本
book collections. The different sizes and shapes of the artwork made them stand out,
色調襯托下顯得更突出。
even more against the basic colours of the kitchen, living room and bathroom.”
2,600呎的私人藝術館 A 2,600-squAre-foot
private art museum 站在室內任何一個角落 都會被圖書館內的菱形 書架所吸引。 The diamond-shaped bookshelves in the library are eyecatching from any direction.
text | Zoe Mak photo | Stephani Buchman of Buchman Photo
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Features Jodie指出原本的圖則跟現在大有不同，圖書館前身是一個光線不足而且細小 的書房（Den)，為了增加空間和光線，她把多幅牆拆卸來重整間隔。她解釋室內 的光源分佈設計也是整個項目的重點，例如在不同的位置設置puck lighting，把光 線聚焦於室內陳設的藝術收藏品。
為了更凸顯客廳的圖騰雕塑，天 花上裝上特別的puck lighting設 計。 To accentuate the totem sculpture in the living room, Rosen installed specially designed puck lighting in the ceiling.
除了圖書館內的菱形書架展示了屋主的書籍收藏外，Jodie更利用廚房的一面 牆和客廳的空間來展示屋主各種形狀大小不一的收藏品，打破了一般只利用傳統 玻璃櫃來展覽藝術品的陳腔濫調。 她表示在Condo內進行工程有多方面的限制，例如時間和改動圖則方面等， 為了避免影響其他住戶，在工程開始之前就花了很多時間去計劃。 Rosen pointed out the original layout was quite different from the proposed renovation plans. The library was previously a small and dimly-lit den. In order to increase the space and increase the light, she took down many walls and reconfigured the space. She explained that another goal of the project was to disperse light sources throughout the space. She, therefore, installed puck lighting in different areas, in order to focus light on the art pieces displayed in the house.
有別於Condo內使用標準木門 來分隔空間，設計師就將圖書 館的入口擴闊，增加光源之外 更讓菱形書架的設計於室內任 何角落都一覽無遺。 The designer has widened the entrance to the library by doing away with the standard wooden door. This brings in additional light, and also allows the diamondshaped bookshelves to be seen from any corner of the home.
In addition to the diamond-shaped bookshelves in the library displaying the homeowner’s book collection, Rosen also used one of the walls in the kitchen and the 屋主除了喜歡藝術品之外亦鍾情 東方美，於是設計師於洗手間內 就簡單選用紅色配木色的浴室盥 洗台，為小小的空間增添一點兒 的Zen accent。 Besides artwork, the homeowner is also fond of Oriental flavours. So, the designer used the simple colour combination of red with wood in the bathroom sink, thus adding a Zen-like accent to this small space.
space in the living room to show off the homeowner’s other collectibles, which are in varying sizes and shapes. This way, she avoided the tired-old method of only using traditional glass display cases to exhibit artwork. According to Rosen, there were obstacles to overcome. For one, in order not to bother the other residents in the building, she spent considerable time mapping out the construction before it began. Along the way, scheduling and the need to alter plans were both challenges.
Highlights 整個設計以不同的方式展示屋主的收藏品，
The entire design focused on utilizing different ways to display the homeowner’s
例如廚房的一面牆掛上了面譜之外，客廳的展示
collections. For example, masks were hung on one of the walls in the kitchen. In the
空間都以最簡潔的橫型架擺放各類收藏品；另外
display space in the living room, simple horizontal shelves were used to hold different
為了讓收藏圖書的空間更添玩味，就棄用傳統的
collectibles. Also, to add a bit of whimsy to the library space, Rosen abandoned the
長方形書櫃設計，而改用由高級堅固木材訂製而
traditional rectangular bookcase design. Instead, she used extremely strong wood to
成的菱形書架，打造了一個富有藝術色彩的閱讀
construct custom-made, diamond-shaped bookshelves, thus creating a reading space
空間。
full of artistic flair.
她表示整個項目並沒有一個特定的主題，不
Rosen said she didn’t have a pre-determined theme for the project, but used
過就利用最簡單的白和灰，為本身已有2,600呎
simple white and grey to create a feeling of more space and a more contemporary look
的Condo締造更多空間及時尚感，以基本色調和
to the 2,600-square-foot (242-square-metre) condo. The basic colours and shapes
圖形來凸顯屋主各種收藏品，變身成一個摩登私
make the homeowner’s various collectibles stand out and have transformed the condo
人藝術廊。圖書館內的菱形書架除了可以擺放書
into a modern private art gallery.
本之外，還可以配搭其他雕塑藝術品，為整個單 位塑造成一個多元化的藝術館，讓屋主可以隨時 隨意展覽任何藝術收藏品。
Other than books, the diamond-shaped bookshelves in the library can also be used to showcase sculpted artwork, making the entire unit a multi-media art museum
Cost 整個項目包括設計、材料，人工大約$500,000。 The entire project, including design, materials and
Designer
Construction
Jodie Rosen, Jodie Rosen Design.
GreenGold Construction Ltd.
jodierosendesign.com
greengoldbuild.com
labour, cost around $500,000. ELITEGEN
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煤氣鎮的自豪
L’ABATTOIR
GASTOWN’S FORCE OF ENERGY & PRIDE
L’ Abattoir店主/主廚Lee Cooper Lee Cooper, owner/executive chef of L’Abattoir
意大 Ne Th Ita Ne
煤氣鎮是溫哥華最古舊的社區，亦是國家歷史保存區的地 標，百多年前曾經是本市的發源地。1886年一場大火幾乎 把一切夷為平地，不少歷史遺址建築物及商戶都備焚毀，不 過時至今日，這個社區的整體重建已讓它重拾昔日光輝 。 Gastown is Vancouver’s oldest neighbourhood, a national historic site and the city’s original downtown. In I886, a huge fire razed many heritage buildings and business enterprises. The reconstruction process was slow in restoring it to its former glory.
L’A L’A Ga text | Kenson Ho & Mel Tobias
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這些年來，煤氣鎮不斷成長，漸漸成為市內的重要地標，及後卻備受 忽視及至現時重新的循環。在過去十年，隨著城市規劃的協助和地產發展 商的企業精神，煤氣鎮終於重新建立它不斷蛻變的獨特風格和韻味。雖然 仍然有很多計劃需要實踐，現在新舊元素的交融，創造了一個令本地居民 和遊客都著迷的社區。
獨特精緻的法式高檔餐廳 今天煤氣鎮主要景點之一就是L’Abattoir，一家坐落於煤氣鎮中心區的 餐廳。這個街段建於19世紀，原本是主要屠宰場及肉類加工區。L’Abattoir 這個名字 （法語屠房） 就是向這區色彩繽紛的過去致敬。
紅磚牆及黑白階磚，既是永恆，亦是時尚。 The red brick wall and black/white tiles are timeless, yet contemporary
《星尚》與富有遠見的店主Paul Grunberg會面，問及餐廳的概念構 思，為何出乎意料地選擇落戶煤氣鎮。Grunberg解釋說：「當我在Market by Jean-Georges工作時，我認識了Lee Cooper。我們當時是同事，之後 成為好朋友。我們有著相同的願景和目標，就是在不久將來開設屬於自 己的餐廳。Lee對烹調的理念和我對優質服務及個性的追求，似乎相當吻 合。我們找到了煤氣鎮的店址，覺得一切符合要求，就把握機會行動。在 這個偶然的緣分下，L’Abattoir誕生了。前身是屠房的背景相當吸引，因為 有點出位及富個性，有齊所有獨特的元素，能創造與眾不同的用餐體驗。 而Lee設計的餐單，專注於採用季節性和新鮮食材，並配以法式烹飪技 巧。我們使用的食材都是來自本地農場，我們得天獨厚擁有位於卑詩省的 最佳供應商，讓我們可以充分展示精心炮製的菜餚，向法國美食致敬。」
餐廳其中一個角落，透入了大量的天然光線。 One section of the restaurant is illuminated with natural light
Through the years, Gastown experienced the cycles of growth, importance, vibrancy, neglect and eventual rebirth. In the past decade, with the help of city planners and the entrepreneurial spirit of developers, Gastown has finally rebuilt a unique personality that continues to evolve. Though there are still a lot of work to be done, old and new elements now intermingle to create a fascinating neighbourhood for locals and visitors alike.
意大利經典雞美酒 Negroni。 The classic Italian cocktail, Negroni
UNIQUE FINE-DINING RESTAURANT WITH CASUAL FRENCH FLAIR One of Gastown’s main attractions these days is L’Abattoir. This restaurant is located in the centre of Gastown, the city’s main butchery and meat-packing district in the 19th century. The name L’Abattoir (French for slaughterhouse) pays homage to the area’s colourful past. EliteGen met up with visionary owner/operator Paul Grunberg to find out how the restaurant was conceptualized and why the Gastown site was chosen. Grunberg explained: “When I was working at Market by Jean-Georges, I met Lee Cooper there. We were colleagues and became good friends. We seemingly had the same vision and goal and that was to open our own restaurant. Lee’s concept for food, and my concept for service and character, were amalgamated. We found the Gastown site that made sense and we seized the opportunity. It was serendipitous and L’Abattoir was born. The former slaughterhouse idea appealed to us because it had an edge, a personality. All the elements embody style and out-of-the-ordinary dining experience. Lee devised a menu that is focused on seasonality and the availability of fresh ingredients and applying French cooking techniques.
L’Abattoir位於煤氣鎮中心區，前身是屠房。 L’Abattoir is located in the heart of Gastown, once a slaughterhouse district
The products we use are all from local farms and we are blessed with the best suppliers in British Columbia. We can then showcase our artfully prepared dishes that pay homage to French cuisine.
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GRUNBERG AND COOPER – MEN BEHIND THE SUCCESS OF L’ABATTOIR Cuisine at the restaurant is described as contemporary French. L’Abattoir L’Abattoir店主/經營者 Paul Grunberg Paul Grunberg, owner/operator of L’Abattoir
主廚Lee Cooper 精心炮製美食。 Chef Lee Cooper at work
will be celebrating its sixth anniversary in July and the restaurant’s success can be attributed to the collaboration of Grunberg and Cooper. Grunberg has been in the food-and-beverage business for more than 15 years and always wanted to have his own restaurant. Originally from Victoria, he worked in several prestigious Switzerland hotels, where he gained tremendous experience.
L’ Abattoir成功背後的兩位功臣 餐廳的美食被形容為時尚法國菜，轉眼間他們在今年7月份就會慶
He says he is always reminded of his father’s advice about work ethic – “You can’t be a bank manager right away. You have to be a bank teller first.”
祝開業六周年。成功背後是兩位功臣Paul Grunberg 和Lee Cooper的融
After those many years in Europe, an offer from Vancouver’s Shangri-La hotel
合。
brought him back to Canada. Grunberg已在飲食業服務超過15年，一直希望擁有自己的餐廳。他
Cooper is originally from Nanaimo. He worked his way up in the culinary
來自維多利亞，隨後在多家瑞士著名的酒店工作。Grunberg不斷積累經
world in both Canada and Europe, and built a very impressive F&B resume.
驗，並建立了驕人的簡歷。他總是記著父親的忠告：「能夠成為一個銀行
He has worked at Fat Duck, London’s world renowned restaurant, Mission
經理，你必須首先由一個出納員職位開始。」在歐洲工作多年後，他獲香
Hill in Kelowna and Pear Tree in Burnaby, to name a few.
格里拉酒店邀請加盟，並把他帶回加拿大。 Lee Cooper來自溫哥華島的Nanaimo，他曾於加拿大及歐洲的餐廳
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED DISHES AT L’ABATTOIR
工作，累積了豐富的廚藝經驗。他曾經工作的餐廳包括位於倫敦馳名國 際的Fat Duck、在基隆拿的Mission Hill及本拿比的Pear Tree。
Pan Fried Veal Sweetbread on Toast $16 Baked Oysters with Winter Truffles $19
L’ABBATIOR推薦菜式
Terrine of duck foie gras, cherries, yogurt, brioche $ 24 Steak Diane, Celeriac, cheese puffs, peppercorn condiment $ 44
香煎小牛胸腺 $16
Lightly smoked duck breast, crisp confit leg meat, blackberry, cabbage
冬季松露烤生蠔 $19
$36
鴨肝陶罐，配上櫻桃、酸奶，奶油雞蛋小麵包 $24
Pumpkin pie with creme fraiche, candied sugar pumpkin $12
黛安女神牛扒，塊根芹菜，奶酪泡芙，胡椒調料 $44 輕煙熏鴨胸，香脆油封鴨腿配黑莓、捲心菜 $36
RESTAURANT DESIGN AN ASSET
南瓜餅配鮮奶油，配南瓜糖蜜棗 $12 The design of the restaurant is clean and uncluttered, conveying a sense
餐廳設計帶出優點 餐廳乾淨整潔的設計，散發出不經意的優雅。紅磚牆來自原來的建 築物，黑白色的小階磚帶出了一個上世紀三四十年代的風格，富有永恆 及現代感。
L’ABBATIOR私人貴賓廳 去年，L’A battoir在餐廳毗鄰，開設了他們的私人貴賓廳。這個全新 的貴賓廳與餐廳原本的餐房完全分開，但那道紅磚牆卻貫徹了餐廳的風
of casual elegance. The red brick wall is from the original building. The small black-and-white tiles create a ‘30s/’40s vibe, yet it still feels timeless and contemporary.
PRIVATE DINING: L’ABATTOIR STYLE Last year, L’Abattoir opened a private dining facility adjacent to, but completely separate from, the restaurant dining room. Yet, the decor is an extension of the celebrated brick style, with sleek industrial glass and contemporary steel accents.
格，加上流線型的工業玻璃及時尚鋼鐵，更能突出簡約風。 The primary goal of this extension is to provide guests with genuine 這個增設的主要目的，是希望為客人提供在一個設備齊全的場地，
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hospitality in a well-equipped setting for weddings, anniversaries, birthdays,
帶來貼心尊貴的服務，讓他們可以盡情享受私人派對（例如婚禮、周年紀
corporate and special events, and can handle audio-visual presentations.
念、生日派對、企業和特殊活動，甚至是視聽演示等）。私人貴賓廳總面
The 1,200-square-foot space accommodates up to 50-seated guests, or a
積約1,200平方呎，可容納多達50人用餐，或多達70位站立的客人，空間
standing reception of up to 70 guests. The space can also be divided in half
也可加上降噪屏障劃分一半使用。
with a noise-reducing barrier.
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01•鴨肝陶罐，配上櫻桃、酸奶，奶油雞蛋小麵包。 Terrine of duck foie gras, cherries, yogurt and brioche
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02•輕煙熏鴨胸，香脆油封鴨腿配黑莓、捲心菜。 Lightly-smoked duck breast, crisp confit leg meat, blackberry and cabbage 03•南瓜餅配鮮奶油，配南瓜糖蜜棗。 Pumpkin pie with crème fraîche, candied sugar pumpkin, pumpkin seed streusel 04•私人貴賓廳，最適合小型溫馨的婚宴。 The private dining room is a perfect venue for an intimate wedding
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05•私人貴賓廳可款待50位賓客。 The private dining room can accommodate up to 50 seated guests 06•私人貴賓廳的時尚廚房。 The contemporary kitchen of the private dining-room extension
靈感和卓越之源 Paul Grunberg向《星尚》解釋了他們靈感之源，與及他們餐 廳獨特之處：「我們的靈感來自我們的材料，就像我們的餐酒、 家禽、豬肉、牛肉、魚，及蔬菜等。供應商為我們帶來他們最好 的優質產品和生產，我們亦深知物盡其用之道。」他自豪的說： 「我們現在是一個指定目標的餐廳。開業時，不少人對煤氣鎮略 負面的形象有點顧忌。現在的煤氣鎮經過時間的洗鍊已慢慢蛻變 成熟。我們的餐廳與別不同，因為我們是一家獨立而不是企業化 經營的餐廳。我們是用心用神全情投入炮製美食，亦旨在為客人 提供最優質的服務。我們傑出之處是因為我們保持謙卑，同時我 們擁有一個支持我們的願景、令人難以置信的團隊。」 大廚為私人貴賓廳活 動準備的小點。 The sweet treats for the private diningroom activities
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SOURCE OF INSPIRATION AND EXCELLENCE Grunberg explained to EliteGen the source of their inspiration and why their restaurant is different from the others. “Our inspiration comes from our products and ingredients, just like our wines, poultry, pork, beef, fish and vegetables. Vendors bring us their best-quality products and produce and we know what to do with them.”
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He described the journey with pride: “We are now a destination restaurant. In the beginning, people were afraid to go to Gastown because of its negative stigma. But it is all changed now and Gastown’s rough edges are slowly disappearing. As for our restaurant being different from others, we are an independent operation, not corporate. We cook with our heart and
地址 Address: 217 Carrall St., Gastown, Vancouver 604-568-1701, labattoir.ca email:info@labattoir.ca 營業時間 Hours: Sun-Thu, 5:30-10:00 p.m.; Fri-Sat, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sat-Sun brunch, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.; 酒吧開至午夜／daily bar service until midnight. 建議預先訂座／Reservations are recommended.
soul. We give service with passion. We stand out also because we are humble and we have an incredible team that supports our vision.
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Wine not
葡萄園看似千篇一律，但內藏不少玄機，Numanthia這片土地就含有冰河時期的岩石。 The homogenous-looking vineyard of Numanthia unexpectedly harbours rocks from the Ice Age.
西班牙寶藏
SpaniSh TreaSureS 西班牙是「預言家」們的潮流「甜心」，因她確實是一座靜待劉伶們去發掘的大 寶山。 Kicking off a new year, the harbingers of good fortune are smiling on Spain and the treasure trove of vintages beckoning wine-lovers to explore. People who have fallen in love with Spanish vino in recent years will definitely agree that Spain is the most intriguing wine country in the Old World. text | Ivan Wong
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近年愛上西班牙酒的人，絕對認同她是舊世界中最具趣味性
Spain has the highest acreage of vineyards in the world, yet ranks
的產酒國，論葡萄園總面積，西班牙稱冠全球，產量僅次法國及
third in production quantity behind France and Italy. Spain also lags
意大利排行第三，面積較大而產量較少，那「貴精不貴多」的潛台
behind France and Italy in wine marketing, due to the unruly range of
詞還用多說嗎！但礙於她的產區組織較諸法國、德國甚至意大利
grape species of divergent character within its various regions.
鬆散，而且葡萄品種繁雜，地區風格迴異，難於觸摸，在面向世 界的產品推廣上，難免落後於已擁有相當支持者的法、意兩國。
Still, certain Spanish wines stand above those of Italy and France in the eyes of many connoisseurs.
然而，西班牙酒其實有些風格特質是比意、法還要強的，就 是那種西班牙高濃度的激情——當然，激情不一定在每個地區每
Let’s look at Toro, a historical wine area in the north. Numanthia
個酒莊都出現，但我們可先從北部一個古舊產區Toro下手，那裡
is a fast-developing vineyard in the region, exemplary of the depth of
有個近年冒起得極快的年輕酒莊，說得上是新派西班牙高濃度的
passion among New World Spanish wines.
激情典範，說的是Numanthia。 The young brand began its story in 1998 in the small village of 這個年輕酒莊成立於1998年，位於當地一條名為Valdefinjas
Valdefinjas. With only 49 hectares of south- and southwest-facing
的小村落之內，只擁有約49公頃、位處海拔700米的葡萄園，主
vineyards, perched 700 metres above sea level, it grows only one
要面向南及西南，當中約20公頃土地用作種植樹齡達70至100
exclusive variety — Tinta de Toro. Twenty hectares of the land features
年的老樹（有4至8公頃的樹齡更超過120年），只種植只此一家的
vines ranging in age between 70 and 100 years. Vines up to 120 years
Tinta de Toro品種葡萄。這種葡萄是西班牙著名品種Tempranillo
old cover four to eight hectares.
家族成員之一，雖然葡萄果粒較細，但葡萄串卻大而繁密，其釀 Tinta de Toro is part of the famous Spanish vine species
出來的紅酒色澤會較深，而單寧亦會較強。Numanthia葡萄園的 種植比例，是每公頃約2千至3千公斤葡萄收成，是世上最低比例
Tempranillo. Although the fruit is smaller, it comes in bigger bunches,
的葡萄園之一。
hence a higher density. The red wine made from these grapes is darker and has stronger tannins.
就連Numanthia的釀酒師Manuel Louzada， Numanthia produces 2,000 to 3,000 kilograms of grapes per
也有種濃得化不開的釀酒激情，在收成季節中， 他每天親嚐採摘下來的葡萄，是數以千計的，你
hectare, one of the lowest yields in the world.
知他是怎樣形容Numanthia的濃重程度嗎？他說： 幾乎要用刀叉來品嚐。夠誇張吧！你可能會問， 這麼厲害的東西為何不常在我們面前出現？產量 不多的Numanthia其實已達神級，已不用大費
Passion flows from Numanthia’s winemaker, Manuel Louzada. During harvest time, he personally tastes thousands of the harvested grapes per day. In describing the fullness of the grapes, he says you almost need a knife and fork to taste them. How extraordinary!
周章多作推銷——也就是說，寶藏，還是 應由我們主動去尋找的呢！
That begs the question: why don’t we see more of this amazing brand? It’s because Numanthia, with its limited production, is already a cut above others and needs no shouting or hard-selling. When it comes to treasures, it’s up to us to discover them.
01. 當年第一個年份的Numanthia新酒推出不久，即備 受世界各地酒評名家所青睞，當中的咖啡味最令人 回味。 Numanthia won adoration from world-renowned wine critics with its very first vintage, one that carries a lingering hint of coffee. 02. Robert Parker的100分標籤，也曾貼於Numanthia （Termanthia 2004） 的酒瓶之上。 Numanthia (Termanthia 2004) features a 100 score label from Robert Parker.
每年收成季節，釀酒師Manuel Louzada每天要親 嚐過千顆人手採收的Tinta de Toro葡萄。 Winemaker Manuel Louzada personally tastes thousands of hand-picked Tinta de Toro grapes per day during harvest time.
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迴旋古巴黎
An Ancient FAir in Paris
位於巴黎的The Musée des Art Forains遊樂藝術博物館，帶參觀者走進19世紀的遊樂場，而且 不但有得睇，更有得玩。 The Musée des Art Forains in Paris transports visitors to a 19th-century fairground, where they are encouraged to not just look, but touch, too. text | Leslie Yip 葉子青 photo | Pavillons de Bercy, Leslie Yip葉子青
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如果木馬的耳朵是直豎的，便是法國出產；如果耳朵向前傾，則 是德國出產。 如果木馬的馬尾是木製的，便是法國出產；如果馬尾用上真馬 毛，則是德國出產。 英國木馬就最容易認，因為只有英國木馬的馬頭會面向左方。 如何分辨木馬的「出生地」，是我在Musee des Art Forains首先學 到的東西。這所位於巴黎的私人博物館，專門收藏19世紀的古董遊樂 場設施，館主Jean-Paul Favand擁有的遊樂藝術品藏量，相信是全歐 洲最豐富的。遊客除了參觀更有機會親身試玩這些已有過百年歷史的 遊樂設施，被帶進如幻似夢的古巴黎。 迴旋木馬可以說是傳統遊樂場的主角，而這所博物館更有三台， 讓童心未泯的你盡情玩樂。雖然統稱「旋轉木馬」，但旋轉台上有些會 以馬車等代替木馬，不過玩迴旋木馬，當然要坐木馬才算經典。原來 最早的迴旋木馬的用途為訓練騎兵以劍瞄準及攻擊敵人。由於大部分 騎兵都是右撇子，因此傳統迴旋木馬的設計以逆時針方向旋轉，好讓 持劍的右手處於外側，而木馬則面向外即右方。 不過這種設計並不適合英國的騎兵。因為傳統英式的騎術訓練要 求騎師從馬的左方上馬，因此英國製的迥旋木馬，馬頭均面向左方， 只要你一踏上旋轉台，便已站於木馬的左方即上馬的正確位置。故 此，英式迴旋木馬獨樹一格地以順時針方向旋轉，木馬亦面向左方。 第二台是迴旋單車。如果你有看過電影《午夜巴黎》（Midnight in Paris），應該會記得其中一幕講述賓客們在Scott 及 Zelda Fitzgerald 舉行的派對中翩翩起舞時，Owen Wilson飾演的角色Gil突然在派對中 出現。這一幕就是在博物館內拍攝。
凌空的大象與熱汽球，令人聯想起電影 「情迷紅磨 坊」的奇幻世界。 This giant hot air balloon with an elephant suspending in mid-air seems to hail from the fantasy world of the movie Moulin Rouge.
01. 博物館共分三個區域。La Fête Foraine 主要是機動競技遊戲，Le Théatre du Merveilleux是視覺及機械展覽，而Les Salons Vénitiens則以水都威尼斯作主題。 The museum is divided into three rooms: la Fête Foraine features 19thcentury arcade games, Le Théatre du Merveilleux is a theatre of visual and technological wonder and Les Salons Vénitiens uses automata and music to recreate a Venetian water wonderland.
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02. 愛 吃 的 法 國 人 連 機 動 遊 戲 也 是 與 吃 有 關。這個侍應鬥快比賽，就是參照傳統 侍應捧著載滿酒杯的餐盤的8公里競步比 賽。玩家要鬥快將小球擲入紅圈令侍應 人偶前進。 Race de Garçon: leave it to the French to develop an arcade game to mimic an actual Parisian race, where waiters run eight kilometres with glasses balanced precariously on a tray. To win, throw the ball into the centre red circle. If you miss, your waiter will slow to a crawl!
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Elite Life 電影把博物館19世紀時期的氛圍完美地呈現在觀眾眼前， 不過大家卻不會知道，原來這台旋轉單車是用腳踏驅動的。當騎 上單車 - 正確名稱應為腳踏兩輛車(velocipedes)，你可能以為腳 踏只為承托雙腳之用。不過當你開始「踩」腳踏時，你會發現原來 整座旋轉台就是靠各位乘客的「腳力」驅動，千萬不要小看這股動 力，時速最高可達60 公里! 而第三座旋轉台則帶大家走進一個對當時巴黎人來說，充滿 異國情調的國度 - 威尼斯。乘坐著gondola，穿梭於威尼斯嘉年華 的懷舊化妝舞會，到訪著名景點嘆息橋(Bridge of Sighs)，傾聽戀 人們用情歌表達愛慕之情。 一般博物館的展品都是眼看手勿動，但來到Musée des Art Forains不但有得睇，更有得玩。懷舊投球遊戲機可以讓大家來一 場友誼賽，亦可欣賞被稱為orgue de Barbarie的古老管風琴奏出 的古老調子。看見眼前一座座古董遊樂設施，經歷時間的洗禮， 在過百年後的今日仍然為大家帶來無窮的歡樂，一時心頭湧起無 限感觸。 博物館座落於舊區重建的Bercy village，這裡之前只有荒廢 了的酒廠，不過經活化後已成為集購物、美食及藝術於一身的至 潮蒲點，可說是巴黎版的Distillery District。一直以來，除了每年 的European Heritage Days (Journées du Patrimoine)及聖誕節 之外，博物館並不對外開放。不過，自今年初起，博物館提供私
If the ears are straight, it’s French; if they aim forward, it’s German.
人預約的導賞團，帶你走入時光隧道，返回維多利亞時期的遊樂
If it has a wooden tail, it’s French; if it’s real pony hair, it’s German.
場。不同的是，這裡沒有擠湧的人潮，不用擔心天氣變化(全位於 室內)，玩機動遊戲不額外收費，還有可愛的導賞員以帶有濃厚法
English wooden horses are even easier to identify. They are the only ones to turn their heads to the left.
國口音的英語，為你從旁講解。 This is the first thing I learned at the Musée des Art Forains, a private museum in Paris dedicated to 19th-century fairground artefacts. Museum owner Jean-Paul Favand is said to have one of the biggest collections of fairground art and objects. Visitors get the rare chance to ride and play with century-old fairground installations, and be transported to an era where imagination and whimsy ruled. Carousels are one of the major attractions in any traditional fairground and this museum has three. The most classic one is the horse carousel, which was first used to train horseback riders to spear targets with their swords. Since most riders are right-handed, 03
hand on the outside, and the horses face outward — to the right.
03. 這台於1897年在比利時打造的 迴旋單車，原意是向巴黎人推 廣使用單車的。現時世界上只 存兩台。 Stationary bike, with a spin: this bicycle merry-go-round was originally designed to let horse-loving Parisians try the new and far cleaner velocipedes. It was built in Belgium in 1897 and is one of only two remaining in the world.
This doesn’t sit well with English riders. Traditional equestrian training dictates that riders must mount from the left side of the horse, so the English had their carousels made such that the left side of the animals face outward. That way, when you step onto the carousel platform, you are already on the correct side for mounting. For this reason, English carousels turn clockwise, and the horses look to the left instead.
04. 迴旋單車是靠人力腳踏啟動， 時速可高達60公里。 The velocipedes are pedalpowered and can go up to a head-spinning speed of 60 kilometres per hour.
The second one is the bicycle carousel. If you have seen the movie Midnight in Paris, you may remember the scene where people are dancing the Charleston as Owen Wilson’s character, Gil, crashes a 04
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traditional carousels spin counter-clockwise to put the sword-bearing
party hosted by Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald. That scene was shot in this museum.
05. 迴旋木馬的馬頭和尾巴，原來隱藏著其原產地的秘密。 How do you tell if a carousel horse is French, German or English? Hint: it’s in the head and the tail. 06. 這個百年老的風琴，仍能奏出昔日的老調子。 This century-old barrel organ is still in working order, treating visitors with tunes from a bygone era. 07. 博物館可舉行私人宴會。 The museum can be booked for private parties.
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08. 博物館位處舊區重建的Bercy Village，有點像多倫多的Distillery District或溫哥華的Gastown。 The museum is situated in Bercy Village, a gentrified neighbourhood similar to the Distillery District in Toronto, and Gastown in Vancouver.
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The movie does a good job recreating the late 19th-century
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some music on the “orgue de Barbarie” barrel organ. An indescribable
ambience prevalent throughout the museum, but it doesn’t show you
sentiment arises when you see these almost ancient fairground
that this merry-go-round is pedal-powered. As you mount the bicycles
artefacts operating today with the same purpose as they did a hundred
— they are called velocipedes — you might think the pedals are simply
years ago: to entertain.
foot-rests. It is only when you are told to start pedalling that you realize this is how the giant whirligig is set in motion. Don’t
The museum is situated in Bercy village, a former
underestimate human pedal-power – you can reach a
derelict area with abandoned wine warehouses.
dizzying top speed of 60 kilometres per hour!
It has since been revamped into a chic shopping, dining and artsy hangout — Paris’s version of the
The third carousel transports you to Venice, an
Distillery District, if you may. It used to be closed to
exotic destination for Parisians in that era. As you
the public, save for two events during the year: the
ride in a gondola, you pass through a masquerade
European Heritage Days (Journées du Patrimoine)
reminiscent of the Venice Carnival, famous landmarks
and the Christmas season. However, since earlier
such as the Bridge of Sighs and you have a chance to eavesdrop on
this year, it has been offering guided tours by appointment. It is almost
serenading lovers proclaiming their affection.
like time-travelling to a Victorian-era fair, except there are no pushy crowds, no unexpected weather (everything is indoors), no extra charge
This is not a museum where exhibits are cordoned off. Rather, you are encouraged to compete in a skee-ball race game, or crank
to get on a ride and the cute guide speaks English, albeit with a cute French accent.
實用資訊 Practical Information 網址：arts-forains.com
Website: arts-forains.com
地址：53 Avenue des Terroirs de France, 巴黎
Address: 53 Avenue des Terroirs de France, Paris
最近Metro站：14線的Cour Saint-Emilion 站
Closest Metro: Cour Saint-Émilion stop on Line 14
入場費：成人€16，4 至 11歲兒童 €8，4歲以下小童免費入場
Admission Fee: 16€ for adults, 8€ for children 4 to 11 years old, free admission
開放時間：每年只於聖誕及新年期間(12月26日至1月3日) 向 公眾開放，時間為早上10時至下午6時。其餘時間 只接受私人預約。
under 4 years old. Opening hours: Rolling entry during the holiday season (Dec. 26-Jan.3) between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. By appointment only at other times.
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Elite Car
XJL長軸版是積架豪華轎車的旗艦車 款。長長的車頭蓋及傾斜的車頂輪廓 線，令它外型更顯得氣宇軒昂。 The 2016 XJL is the long-wheelbase version of Jaguar’s flagship luxury sedan. It has an imposing presence with its long hood and low, sloping roofline.
豪華世家 積架旗艦XJ 車系 Luxury reigns in
Jaguar’s flagship XJ 當我坐上全新流線型的積架XJL的司機位時，情不 自禁地輕聲對自己說： 「司機，開車。」 “Home, James,” I quietly say to myself as I settle in behind the wheel of the sleek new Jaguar XJL. Maybe I’ve watched too many old movies because I’ve always yearned for the opportunity to just once say something like that to “my driver.” text, photo | Lorne Drury Metroland Media
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2016年款積架XJ的前儀表板、進氣格柵及車頭燈均是新的設計。 Jaguar has given its XJ model a mild refresh for 2016, with a new front fascia, grille and headlights.
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當司機按掣發動引擎 時，積架獨有的鍍鉻的 冰球式波棍把手便從中 控台彈出，當熄掉引擎 時，則藏於控制台內。 The chrome hockey puck-style shift knob is unique to Jaguar. It pops out of the centre console when the driver punches the start button and lowers into the console when the engine is shut off.
可能看得太多懷舊電影，令我很渴望有機會對「我的司機」這樣說。可現實是，我就是 這輛2016 XJL的司機，而不是後座的乘客。除非中了彩票大獎，否則我今生都不可能擁有 一部由司機駕駛的豪華房車。 假如我真的行運中了大獎，這部有型有款有氣派的2016 XJ正合我用。 XJ車系長久以來都是積架車輛的旗艦，而積架一直與勞斯萊斯和賓利齊名，是英國製 造的最佳汽車。 現今這些品牌都由外資擁有，而積架部分股權則屬印度的龐大集團塔塔汽
圓潤的嵌木儀表板，讓車廂內飾更顯奢華。 This rich-looking wood panelling certainly gives the interior a luxurious look. XJL的Portfolio版本內飾加工精美，配以有絎縫圖 案的柔軟毛絨皮。 The Portfolio edition interior of the XJL is beautifully finished with soft, plush leather in a quilted pattern. 大型的積架XJ有較短的車尾及陡斜的車頂輪廓 線。這裡展示的是長軸版本。 The full-size Jaguar XJ has a short rear deck and steep sloping roofline. Shown here is the long-wheelbase version.
車公司(Tata Motors) 所有。不過XJ仍然在英國製造，而2016年款的XJ有些微更 新，外型更現代化，包括新的進氣散熱格柵、前後儀表板，和車頭及車尾採用 LED燈。即使有些改變，它仍然保留著經典的積架造型，讓人一眼就把它認出 來。 許多買車之人是因仰慕名牌而購買某個品牌的汽車，然而豪華房車競爭很 大，奧迪、寶馬、凱迪拉克和凌志都加入積架的行列，與豪華房車的「一哥」平治 S級爭長短。 In this case, I’m the driver and not the backseat passenger, and unless I hit it really big in the lottery soon, it’s not likely I’ll ever have my own chauffeur-driven limo. If I do, there is no doubt this 2016 XJ has the style and panache of a car that would fit the bill quite nicely. The XJ has long been the flagship of the Jaguar brand, which has been synonymous over the years, along with RollsRoyce and Bentley, as the crème de la crème of British automotive manufacturing. All are foreign-owned these days with Jaguar part of the giant Tata Motors family, based in India. However, the XJ is still built in Britain and has had a mild refresh for 2016 with a more modern-looking exterior, thanks to a new grille, front and rear fascias and new LED lighting systems, front and rear. Even with the changes, however, it still has that classic Jaguar styling that makes it instantly recognizable. For many buyers, pedigree is what attracts them to a particular brand, but this luxury sedan class is now a wide-open playing field, with entries from Audi, BMW, Cadillac and Lexus joining Jaguar in chase of the perceived segment leader, the S-Class Mercedes-Benz. Our test vehicle is a Jaguar XJL Portfolio AWD, one of five XJ models available in Canada. It features a 3.0-litre supercharged V6 engine, generating 340 horsepower and 332 lb/ft of torque. The XJL starts at $99,000, plus $1,475 delivery. All in, our tester prices out at $109,375 with the addition of adaptive cruise control, parking assist package, and illumination and comfort and convenience packages. The ‘L’ signifies the long-wheelbase version of the car, adding an extra five inches of legroom for passengers in the rear — perfect for the executive with his/her own driver, or the need to transport clients in luxury. While the legroom is generous, headroom in the backseat of the XJ is compromised somewhat by the low roofline — the price one must pay for the sleek styling! ELITEGEN
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Elite Car 這次測試的積架XJL Portfolio AWD，是在加拿大有售的5款 XJ 的其中一款。它有3公升V6增壓引擎，340匹馬力和332磅/呎 扭力。 XJL的售價由99,000 元起，另加1,475元運費。我們所試駕 的房車售價為109,375 元，已包括額外的裝置如自動巡航控制系 統，泊車輔助配套，和照明及舒適方便套裝。 型號名稱中的L，就是長軸距設計的版本。它把後座腳部空間 增加了5吋，正好適合有司機的行政人員乘坐，或是運送尊貴的客 戶。雖然腳部有大量空間可以伸展，但由於車頂輪廓線條傾斜， 後座位頂上的空間難免要將就一下，而這就是流線型的代價。 XJ系列全輪帶動有3款車，全部都是3公升引擎，分別是Sport AWD (售價92,200元)、XJ Portfolio AWD(售價96,000元)和XJL Portfolio AWD (售價99,000元) 。後輪帶動的兩款都是5公升V8增 壓引擎，配以550匹馬力。XJR RWD售價為121,000元，而XJR L
在加拿大出售的5款XJ中，有3款配有3公升340匹馬力引擎，另外2款則 配有5公升550匹馬力引擎。 Three of the five XJ models sold in Canada come with the 3.0-litre, 340-hp supercharged V6 engine. Two others have a 5.0-litre, 550-hp supercharged V8 engine.
則售124,000元。所有型號都配備了8速ZF自動波。 很多駕駛者認為3公升引擎由靜止狀態加速至時速100公里需 6.4秒已經足夠。而那些對動力有要求的駕駛者，就會選擇把加速 時間降至4.6秒的V8引擎，對一輛重1,884 公斤 (4,144 磅) 的汽車 來說，這個速度已經相當快了。
XJ的車尾行李箱有 520公升的載物空間。 The trunk of the XJ holds 520 litres of cargo.
Portfolio型號與其他車不同之處在於座椅中間和靠墊採用絎縫 圖案。此外，14向電動調節座椅附有4個調節腰位是其標準配置。 所有XJ型號的前後座位都有加熱和通風的功能，而Portfolio的兩 個前排座椅更有按摩功能。
車內音響系統的標準裝置已提升至採用825瓦，有17個揚聲 器的Meridian環迴立體音響系統。如果你仍嫌不足，可升級至
然而，2016年款的最大添置是加裝了一個設計更簡單和直接
1,300瓦、26個揚聲器的Meridian 環迴體立音響系統。
的資訊娛樂系統，名為InControl Touch Pro。它的8吋屏幕好像智 能手機般，用家可透過用手指「捏放大」和「掃」的功能，瀏覽不同 的頁面。
在加拿大部分地區居住的人，要忍受冬天路面泥濘和積雪的 情況，使用全輪帶動的XJ型號的轎車面對這情況就很容易應付。 駕車時你會發覺3公升引擎有強勁的動力，差不多足夠應付你可能
積架有一個已連接導航系統的「上下班模式」，知曉駕駛者日
遇到的任何駕駛情況。
常的行程，如遇上塞車時，會自動提供另一條路線以避開擠塞的 道路。
加拿大自然資源部列出這車的耗油量為14.1/9.3/11.9 公升
雙面板天窗讓更多光線引入車廂。 The dual-panel sunroof allows lots of light into the cabin.
/100 公里(市內/高速公路/綜合) 。這樣省油的其中一個原因是它有 一個引擎自動關閉及啟動功能，而這也是XJ車系的標準裝置。 如果你認為XJ系列只是外型漂亮的話，這就錯了！XJ車廂豪 華至極，內裡由溫馨柔軟的毛絨皮革和豐富的木質裝飾，增添這 車的優雅。 按下啟動按鈕，那鍍鉻的冰球式波棍把手便從中控台彈出。 只需撥至「D」檔，你便可行車。駕駛者還可隨著需要選擇動態或冬 季的駕駛模式。 這輛大房車的操控和穩定性一流，車廂的隔音與避震功能良 好。總而言之，這是一輛豪華汽車，自2011年推出以來只是作出 了很少的改變。 儘管積架很昂貴，但在我的心中，它是一件經年而保養得很 好的汽車藝術品，就像一瓶醇郁的美酒。
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There are three versions of the XJ in all-wheel-drive
calls, a Commute Mode that learns the driver’s daily
format, all with the 3.0-litre engine. They are the XJR Sport
route and can automatically offer alternatives to avoid
AWD ($92,200), XJ Portfolio AWD ($96,000) and XJL
congestion.
Portfolio AWD ($99,000). For those of us who have to endure slushy and Two rear-wheel-drive variants are offered, both with a 5.0-litre supercharged V8, producing 550 hp. There is a
of the XJ makes a lot of sense. Get behind the wheel
XJR RWD ($121,000) and the XJR L ($124,000). All models
and you’ll find the 3.0-litre engine has plenty of power
come with an eight-speed ZF automatic transmission.
for almost any driving condition you’ll encounter.
For many drivers, the 3.0-litre engine will suffice, with
Natural Resources Canada lists fuel economy
a decent 0-100 km/h acceleration time of 6.4 seconds.
ratings of 14.1/9.3/11.9 L/100 km city/highway/
Those demanding more power will opt for the V8 that drops
combined. This is aided, in part, by a stop-start
the 0-100 km/h sprint time to 4.6 seconds, pretty quick for
engine function, which is standard across the model
a vehicle that weighs in at 1,884 kg (4,144 lb).
lineup.
The Portfolio model is distinguished by the introduction
XJL長軸版在寬敞後座的腳部 空間額外再增加了5吋。 With its longer wheelbase, the XJL adds five inches of extra legroom to an already cavernous backseat area.
snowy winter conditions, the all-wheel-drive version
If you think the XJ is beautiful on the outside, wait
of a quilted pattern on the seat centre and cushions.
until you get inside. It’s luxurious and inviting with soft,
In addition, 14-way power seats, with four lumbar
plush leather surfaces and rich wood trim that adds
adjustments, are standard. All XJ models have heated and
elegance to the surroundings.
ventilated front and rear seats and the Portfolio features massage functions on both front seats.
Punch the start button and the hockey-puck style chrome shift dial pops up out of the centre console.
However, the biggest addition for 2016 is a new
Simply turn the dial to ‘D’ and you’re good to go. The
infotainment system called InControl Touch Pro, designed
driver can also select Dynamic or Winter drive modes,
to be simpler and more intuitive. It has an eight-inch screen
as required.
that works like a smartphone with “pinch to zoom” and “swipe” functions, allowing the user to scroll between screens.
Ride and handling are excellent for such a large vehicle, and the cabin is well insulated from outside noises and vibrations. All in all, it’s a nice luxury
The audio system has also been upgraded with a standard 825-watt, 17-speaker Meridian surround-
package for a vehicle that has had few changes since its introduction here in 2011.
sound system. If that’s not enough, you can move up to an optional 1,300-watt, 26-speaker Meridian system.
Although it may seem pricey, the Jaguar XJ is, to my mind, a beautiful piece of automotive art that has
The connected navigation system has, what Jaguar
aged well, much like a bottle of fine wine.
2016積架XJL Portfolio AWD一覽 Jaguar XJL Portfolio AWD 2016 at-a-glance 車身款式：大型豪華轎車。
BODY STYLE: full-size luxury sedan.
驅動方式：前置引擎，全輪驅動。
DRIVE METHOD: front-engine, all-wheel-drive.
引擎：3公升DOHC雙凸輪軸V6增壓引擎 (340匹馬力，扭
ENGINE: DOHC 3.0-litre supercharged V6 (340 hp, 332 lb/ft of torque).
力332磅/呎)。
CARGO CAPACITY: 520 litres.
尾箱容量：520公升。
FUEL ECONOMY: 14.1/9.3/11.9 L/100 km (city/hwy/comb)
耗油量：14.1/9.3/11.9 升/100 公里 (市內/高速公路/綜合)。 PRICE: $99,000 (base), $109,375 (as tested), plus $1,475 (destination 價格：99,000元，用作測試之車款售價為109,375元，再
charge).
加1,475元到岸運費。
WEBSITE: jaguar.ca
網址: jaguar.ca What’s best: The styling and luxury. 優點：造型優美及豪華。
What’s worst: The sticker price, of course.
缺點：當然是標價太高。
What’s interesting: The XJL is the long-wheelbase version and adds an
誘人之處：XJL長距軸版在已經寬敞的後座腳部空間再增
extra five inches of legroom to an already generous back-seat area.
添了5吋。
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Just for fun 每年暑假在大多區有成千上萬個夏令
Every summer, you’ll find thousands of summer camps
營。今時今日的夏令營，不再局限於
around the Greater Toronto Area. Today, those camps are no
傳統的藝術、工藝、騎馬等 。從電腦
longer limited to traditional art and crafts, or horseback riding.
到戲劇到運動，都能讓孩子們發揮他 們的興趣和才能，經歷一下「終生受
From computer programming, to drama, to sports, these
用」 的生活體驗。
camps all allow children to explore their interests and talents in a wide range of fields, and to gain valuable life experiences
在運動營方面，網球、籃球 、體操
that will benefit them for years to come.
、足球甚至曲棍球，屢見不鮮 。高 爾夫球夏令營在運動營中比較罕見，
Among sports camps, tennis, basketball, gymnastics, soccer
專門提供此服務的機構亦不多，位於
and hockey are commonplace. Golf camps are less prevalent,
Leslie 及 Steeles交界的Bayview Golf
but one such program is offered at Thornhill’s Bayview Golf
& Country Club是其中之一，名額優
& Country Club, located at the intersection of Leslie and
先給予俱樂部會員或他們推薦的親戚
Steeles. Priority is given to the children of club members, as
朋友。
well as friends and family they recommend.
高球夏令營 在草坡上培育身心發展
Golf Summer Camp:
Developing physical anD Mental health on the links text | Livian Wu photo | Bayview Golf & Country Club
Bayview Golf & Country Club有 18洞之高爾夫球場，在加拿大 的積分排名前100。 Bayview Golf & Country Club has an 18-hole layout and is ranked among the top 100 golf courses in Canada.
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身心大考驗 Bayview Golf & Country Club的夏令營 與推行全國教育計劃、致力孕育年輕球手的 Future Links合作，著重禮儀、規則和體育 道德。 他們的首席教練Dustin Kerr-Taylor表示 ：「夏令營能為孩子們提供一個充滿高球氣氛 的環境，讓他們對高球有初步的理解和認識 後，再學習實戰技能和禮儀，從而培養出濃 厚的興趣。」 Dustin認為只要小孩對球類有興趣，從 幾多歲開始「上課」並不是關鍵 。「教導小孩 時，會重點培養他們的積極性。他們通常都 很喜歡揮桿的動作，而且也覺得把球放進洞 裡是無比興奮的事呢！」 高爾夫球與眾不同的地方，是它本身 含有很強的核心價值。在打球的過程中可以 灌輸正確的價值觀如誠信、體育道德等。例 如，透過在球賽中紀錄自己的成績，孩子們 學習到誠實的重要性。 事實上，相比一般的運動， 高球能為 身、心雙方帶來更大益處 。打高爾夫球講 求戰略性、協調性和專注力，正正就是鍛鍊 大腦的好時機 。而在一個9洞的回合中，球 員便要背著重重的高球裝備走上近三英里的 路，也是對體能的一大考驗呢。 另外，對學員衣著的要求也是教導孩 子對該運動的尊重。Dustin說：「他們會自 備高爾夫球的衣服，包括有領的上衫、球鞋 和正式的褲子。至於球桿，我們營地可以提 供。」
A Huge Challenge for Both Mind and Body Bayview Golf & Country Club’s summer camp is a partnership with CN Future Links, which offers education and training for young golf players across the country. The program focuses on etiquette, rules and sportsmanship. “The summer camp offers children an environment that is rich in golf,” says Dustin Kerr-Taylor, Head Golf Professional at Bayview Golf & Country Club. “After giving them a basic understanding and knowledge of golf, they can learn the skills and etiquette in a real game. Through these, they can nurture a deep interest in golf.” Kerr-Taylor thinks that as long as a child is interested in ball games, it does not matter what age the classes begin. “When teaching a young child, it is important to cultivate their enthusiasm,” he/she says. “They usually like to swing the club. They also think that hitting the ball into the hole is a super-exciting event!” Golf is a sport that contains strong core values, including integrity and sportsmanship. For example, in recording their own scores during a round, children learn the importance of honesty. Golf also benefits both mind and body. It’s a sport that requires strategy, co-ordination and concentration, which all give the cerebral cortex a great workout. For a nine-hole round, the golfer carries his or her own clubs and walks close to three kilometres. That can be quite a physical challenge! Further, the dress code imposed on camp students teaches them respect for the sport. “They need to supply their own golf clothes, including a collared shirt, golf shoes, and formal trousers, but the camp will provide golf clubs,” says Kerr-Taylor.
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Just for fun
專人設計球道 各學員都有機會「落場」，享用俱樂部內聞名的球 場。尤其父母是會員的學員，在參加完夏令營後，通常 都會跟父母來個9洞或18洞的賽事，成為定期的親子活 動。
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The golf course was designed in 1960 by Canadian Golf Hall of Fame architect Robbie Robinson, and was later renovated by another famous golf course designer, Doug Carrick.
球場設計始於1960年，由「加拿大高爾夫名人堂」的 建築師Robbie Robinson設計，並由另一名球場設計師 Doug Carrick負責裝修工程。 PGA球手如Lee Trevino、Chi Chi Rodriguez、Ben Crenshaw 及Arnold Palmer，都是這裡的常客。
果嶺草皮最矜貴 一個優秀的場地當中，果嶺的保養和護理最為重 要。因為推桿對地面的平整度要求極高，所以那一塊草 皮必須好好 「調理」 。 如此矜貴的草皮，是由專人採用精密割草設備來保 持其高度，剛好超過2.5毫米 （ 1/10英寸） 最為合適。 在這樣低的高度下，必須嚴格及有條理地使用肥 料、防蟲產品和水等，才能令草坪長期保持健康翠綠 。
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Expert-Designed Golf Course
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Bayview Golf & CC played host to the 2011 Canadian PGA Women’s Championship,
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and veteran PGA golfers, such as Lee Trevino, Chi Chi Rodriguez, Ben Crenshaw and Arnold Palmer, have all played here from time to time.
Green Turf is Most Precious On a high-quality golf course, the protection and maintenance of the greens is essential. These precious pieces of turf are manicured by precision mowing equipment to keep the grass at a miniscule height of about 2.5 millimetres. With such short grass, the use of a proper fertilizer, allowable insecticides and water are vital for healthy greens.
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01•Bayview Golf & Country Club 也有贊助青少年的高爾夫球計 劃，即使是非會員也可在場內 打球。其中一位被贊助的學員 Russell Budd便成為了PGA職 業選手。 Bayview Golf & Country Club also sponsors youth golf programs. Even nonmembers can play golf on its course. One of the sponsored students, Russell Budd, went on to compete on the PGA Latin America and Mandarin tours. 02•學員在夏令營可學習高球的禮 儀與技術。 The golf summer camps place equal importance on etiquettes and techiques. 03•Bayview Golf & Country Club 的夏令營，每班可容納12位學 員，並由兩位PGA的職業球手 擔當導師，負責設計課程和啟 發學員 。 Bayview Golf & Country Club’s summer camp can accommodate 12 students each session. The two teachers are PGA professional golfers, and are in charge of designing the curriculum, as well as inspiring the students. 04•球會可提供所需器材。 Golf clubs are provided to students.
雖然在大多區提供高爾夫球夏令營不多，但就包含了不同年齡級別的課程，由 啟蒙班到精英的訓練都有。 Even though there are not many golf summer camps in the Greater Toronto Area, there are classes for different ages and levels of expertise. Richmond Hill Country Club 地址：8905 Bathurst Street, Richmond Hill 電話：905.731.2800 Ext242 年齡對象：6–13 歲 開放日期：7月2日－8月26日 全天制：每星期 $603
Bayview Golf & Country Club 地址：25 Fairway Heights Dr., Thornhill 電話：905.889.4833 年齡對象：5–9 歲 開放日期：7月4日－8月26日 全天制 （9am-4pm） ：每兩星期 $760 （會員） ；$915 （非會員） Bayview Golf & Country Club Address: 25 Fairway Heights Dr., Thornhill Phone: 905-889-4833 Target age: 5-9 Dates: July 4-Aug. 26 Cost: $760/two wks (members); $915/two wks (non-members)
Richmond Hill Country Club Address: 8905 Bathurst St., Richmond Hill Phone: 905-731-2800 ext 242 Target age: 6-13 Dates: July 2-Aug. 26 Cost: $603/wk
Granite Golf Club 地址：2699 York Durham Road 30, Stouffville 電話：905.642.4416 啟蒙班 對象：5–9 歲 開放日期：6月27日－8月26日 全天制 （8am－4 pm） ：每星期 $590 (不包借用球桿） 初級班 對象：10–13 歲 開放日期：6月27日－8月26日(不包借用球桿） 全天制 （8am－4 pm） ：每星期 $590 進階班 對象：需具經驗；由專業高球教練評估合資格的學員 開放日期：6月27日－8月26日 (不包借用球桿） 全天制 （8am－4pm） ：每星期 $590 精英班 對象：12-16 歲 （個別小於12歲的學員可獲批准參加） 開放日期：6月27日－7月22日 (不包借用球桿) 全天制（8am－4pm） ：每星期 $720
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Salem Ridge Golf & Academy Junior Camps 地址：2075 Salem Road, Ajax 電話：905.427.7737 ext 327 年齡對象：6-17 歲 開放日期：6月27日-9月1日 全天制：每星期 $399 (不包午餐） 半天制（9am－12nn 或 1pm－4pm） 每星期 $249 Salem Ridge Golf & Academy Junior Camps Address: 2075 Salem Rd., Ajax Phone: 905-427-7737 ext 327 Target age: 6-17 Dates: June 27-Sept. 1 Cost: $399/wk (full day); $249/wk (half day, 9 a.m.-noon or 1 p.m.-4 p.m.)
Granite Golf Club Address: 2699 York Durham Road 30, Stouffville Phone: 905-642-4416 Beginners Target age: 5–9 Dates: June 27-Aug. 26 Cost: $590/wk (club rental not included) Elementary Target age: 10-13 Dates: June 27-Aug. 26 Cost: $590/wk (club rental not included) Advanced Target age: Must have experience; eligibility determined by professional golf coach. Dates: June 27-Aug. 26 Cost: $590 /wk (club rental not included) Elite Target age: 12-16 (select students younger than 12 may receive permission to participate) Dates: June 27-Aug. 26 Cost: $720/wk (club rental not included)
05•年 齡 較 小 的 學 員 ， 專 注 的 時 間 不 長，所以也會整合些簡單的遊戲、 比賽來保持他們的熱情。 The younger students have a shorter attention span, so rounds and competitions are simplified to keep them engaged.
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Hi-Tech VR視覺大氣勢
Making a visual impact with VR
text | 竺、祺 photo | Devil（product）、Frankie（model）、網上圖片
上月推出的新片《Hardcore Henry》，上映
The trailer for the recently released movie Hardcore
前其trailer早已在網上瘋傳，因是全球首部
Henry scored an insane number of hits in cyberspace,
以第一身視點拍攝的電影，所以觀眾就像
simply because it’s the world’s first mass-distributed
代入了主角的身分一樣，可感受他的一連
POV (point-of-view) movie, giving viewers the feel
串冒險。其實要令第一身視點更加真實，
that they are personally involved in the on-screen
3D的透視感和360度的視覺一定不可少，
adventures. The trick in making the first-person POV
如果只流於平面，就很難代入了。而當今
realistic is using 3D perspective and 360-degree
的科技其實已經完全可做到這一點，市面
images.
上不少VR產品開始冒出，今年更是普及的
With the onslaught of VR (virtual-reality) products,
一年。在年初MWC2016大會上，兩大手
today’s technology is fully capable of making this
機品牌Samsung和LG全部都發佈了旗下
possible. At the Mobile World Congress in Barcelona
的可穿戴式VR產品，表示VR將逐步進入
earlier this year, smartphone titans Samsung and LG
我們的生活。但VR到底是什麼？怎樣令到
vied to release wearable VR products, a sign that VR
我們有這麼真實的代入感呢？筆者今回就
is going to become very much a part of our lives.
會帶大家一起拆解隱藏在VR眼罩入面的秘
But what is VR really? How can it deliver such realistic
密，就算要自製一條VR短片，其實不算太
experiences? Sit tight and I’ll show you the secret
難啊。
behind the VR headsets, and you’ll find out it’s not that tricky to make your own VR videos.
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VR的秘密 VR全寫為Virtual Reality，即是虛擬實境，利用電腦模擬出 虛擬的三維空間，再透過專用穿戴裝置，例如筆者下文會介紹的 VR眼罩及眼鏡等，讓用家在視覺及聽覺上同時帶來身臨其境的感 覺。要建構這個VR空間，亦有一個大前提，就是必須以3D空間 為基準。這裡所說的3D並非大家平時所見的又藍又紅的重叠影像 那種，而是利用兩眼距離差別，令眼前畫面營造出一種裸眼的3D 立體感，貼近我們平當看東西的感覺。VR的另一賣點，當然就 是玩家可以第一身視點參與這個虛擬的場景之中，這樣的參與方 式比起傳統打機或看電影戲時，只能夠坐定定在電腦前面要有趣 得多。不知大家有否看過《刀劍神域》這套動漫？其實這個故事就
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是建基在VR技術之上，主角桐人就是戴上一個能夠連接虛擬世界 的VR 頭戴裝置「NERvGear」玩一隻名為「Sword Art Online」的遊 戲，玩家可以透過「NERvGear」裝置令自己完完全全進入遊戲中 的虛擬世界，真實感受用劍、魔法、飛行、打怪等體驗。 如今市面上的VR產品由高階至簡易入門款都有，當中HTC Vive、Oculus Rift及PlayStation VR屬於比較高階的，讓用家不僅 可以在視覺上感受，同時配合控制器參與其中，較多應用在遊戲
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上。而Samsung Gear VR、LG 360 VR 及Google Cardboard就 相對較為低階，只限觀看，不能參與其中，作為個人化VR其實也 算足夠。不過對VR的期待值還可更高，傳聞Google和Apple已經 有專門的團隊正研發自家VR，這兩大科技龍頭公司出手，看來漫 畫中的VR裝置有望實現。
VR眼罩比拼 其實VR除咗可應用在打機上之外，基本上所有娛樂都可以 用，例如演唱會、球賽。幾款可以配合埋其他配件如手掣、遙控 器甚至手套等的VR，如果連所有配件一次過買，相信價錢會相 當昂貴。另外如果入門的話，就可以選擇Samsung Gear VR、 LG 360 VR或Google Cardboard，其實Samsung Gear VR 同 Google Cardboard是同一原理，就是要用家事先在手機上打開 360度影片或3D VR影片，再將手機放置在上面觀看，不過Google Cardboard就不可以調校焦距及無頭帶固定，所以一定要用手hold 住，而且紙板很硬，會刺痛面部。至於LG 360 VR就是多款VR裝 置入面最輕便的，亦比Samsung Gear VR及Google Cardboard 智能化，用家只須將眼鏡連接手機，眼鏡會自動感應用家戴上的 動作，將手機畫面會跳轉至眼鏡內。控制上眼鏡內的一個綠色小 圓點，類似mouse的功用，會根據用家頭部的轉動而移動，這點 比Samsung Gear VR方便許多，不用每次拿著部手機重新選擇。 不過就會用手機的電力，而且耗電量鉅，如果閣下想帶出街用的
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話，記得帶後備電。 01-03• Samsung Gear VR的使用相當簡單，只須要在手機打開影片，然後將手機對準位置固定在眼罩上便可。 Samsung Gear VR is simple to use. All you need to do is open the video on the smartphone and snap the phone into position on the headset. 05-06• LG 360 VR比起Samsung Gear VR輕巧得多，真的像是普通眼鏡般戴上便可用。不過就只可以對應LG G5使用。售價：$300 LG 360 VR is much lighter than the Samsung Gear VR, and no different from wearing a normal pair of glasses. However, it is only compatible with the LG G5. Price: $300. 07• 右上角有OK鍵及返回鍵。 The OK and Return buttons are on the top right corner. 08• 下方有耳機插孔。 The headphone connection is on the lower side. 09• 左右眼鏡都可各自調校焦距。 Focus adjustment is available on both the left and right side of the goggles. 10-12• Oculus是VR技術發展得最成熟的公司，Samsung Gear VR都是由Oculus提供的技術。這款Oculus Rift還自帶耳機，不知聲效是否有足夠水準。 Oculus is the leader in VR technology and provides the technology for Samsung Gear VR. The Oculus Rift comes with its own headset, but the sound quality is still unknown though. 13-15• HTV Vive外形跟Oculus Rift有點相似，不要以為它是一個潛水鏡，在多個國家很受歡迎呢。售價：US$799/set HTV Vive looks a little like Oculus Rift. Despite its snorkel goggle appearance, it is popular in many countries. Price: US$799/set 16-17• 筆者覺得PlayStation VR的外形設計得最美最cyber，戴上去真有科幻感。售價：$550 I think PlayStation VR has the most appealing and cyber-looking design, which delivers a high sci-fi feel. Price: $550. 18• 好像這位model那樣配合控制器使用，更加有投入感。 Using a controller, as pictured, will get you into the scene even more.
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The VR secret VR uses computer modelling to create a virtual 3D space. By wearing a VR device, such as the VR headsets and goggles featured in this article, users will feel as if they’ve been dropped into the virtual space. creating the VR space is the first step, and this space must be three dimensional.
Samsung Gear VR, LG 360 VR and Google cardboard, on the other hand, are more entry-level. they allow viewing, but not involvement. it’s probably enough for personalized VR.
we are not referring to the fuzzy 3D images on movie screens that require 3D glasses to bring things into focus. we mean 3D with depth that’s perceivable with the naked eye.
we can only wish for more expansion in the VR field. Google and apple are rumoured to have dedicated R&D teams to work on VR. with these technology giants pulling their weight, VR may very well become a commonplace reality soon.
another selling point for VR is giving the player the feeling that he, or she, is inside the virtual scene, which is definitely much more
A tour de force of VR headsets
interesting than staring at a computer or movie screen.
VR systems can be applied not only to games, but to all forms
have you seen the animated Sword Art Online? the story is
of entertainment, such as concerts and tournaments. Some can get
about VR technology. main character Kazuto puts on a NerveGear
quite costly if you buy the accessories, such as controllers, remotes
VR headset to play Sword Art Online and feels as if he has entered the virtual realm of the game. he is able to sense movements, like a waving sword, using magic, flying or fighting monsters.
and gloves, all at once. the entry-level choices are LG 360, Samsung Gear VR and Google cardboard. the latter two are similar, in that they both require
VR products currently available range from entry to advance
users to first open the 360-degree movie or 3D VR movie in the
levels. htc Vive, Oculus Rift and playStation VR are the more advanced choices. Not only do they offer visual reality, but they also allow the player to get into the scene through the controller. they are more commonly used for games.
smartphone, and then integrate the smartphone with the device for viewing. Google cardboard, as its name suggests, is simply a smartphone paired a piece of cardboard and two lenses in its purest sense. it does not allow focus adjustment and has no headband to fix the headset in place. You have to hold the viewer with your hand, and the hard cardboard can be uncomfortable to the face.
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LG 360 is the lightest of the lot and more intelligent than the other two. after the user connects the goggles with the smartphone, the goggles will automatically sense the move and pick up the visual
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signals. the green dot on the goggles work like a mouse and will move according to the user’s head movement. there is no need to use the smartphone for making selections all the time, which makes it much more convenient than the Samsung version. however the LG model guzzles the smartphone’s power, so do bring an extra charger if you are going out with it.
A search of VR videos 13
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as mentioned, Henry Hardcore had many netizens waiting with bated breath for its official release after the trailer became a cyber sensation. it you’re not interested in taking in the movie, you still might want to check out some clips, Do a search of “VR video” on Youtube and you will find a long list of them. if you are looking for 360-degree videos, then search for “360
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video”. i recommend the horror, landscape and space sci-fi genres because they are the most effective in drawing you into the scene.
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VR影片推介 正如筆者前文所說，以主角第一身視點所拍攝的電影 《Hardcore》，在上映前已憑其trailer俘虜一眾網。暫時在手機上 還未有得看？先看看其他片吧。大家只要在YOUTUBE搜尋“VR video”就會有很多VR影片，如果想看360度影片的話，可以搜 尋”360 video”。筆者推薦大家看恐怖類、風景類及太空科幻類，
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這幾類影片的代入感及臨場感會更強，尤其是太空VR影片，真的 很震撼。
自製VR影片 如果只是上網看人家拍攝的，當然不夠過癮！其實有沒有想 過自己都可以拍一段360度影片，然後用VR裝置看？其實要拍一 條360影片真的沒大家想象中那麼難，如果較簡單的，不追求大 製作的話，閣下只須要有一部360度相機，其實就可以拍攝到360 影片啦。現在市面上的360相機其實都有很多，例如Ricoh Theta S、LG、Samsung、Nikon及台灣品牌Lunad等，都有推出360度 相機，全部都是相當輕便，帶出街都不覺很大負擔。當然這些相 機拍攝的都只是較基本的360度影片，而且拍攝者都會一併被攝入
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鏡。如果閣下想再pro一點，不妨可試試Kodak SP 360 set，它是 由兩部Kodak SP 360拼成，就變成前後各一個廣角鏡頭的360度 相機，還支援4K拍片及防水功能，不過就比起一部360度相機重 很多。 另外如果想再盡興一點，不如試下設一個圓形陣，將16部 GoPro拼在一起，那畫面出來就會更加細緻，真正做到無縫接 軌。其實《Hardcore》都是由主角戴著個GoPro頭盔拍攝，這也能 拍成電影啦，所以這個做法應該沒問題。 26
Make your own VR
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Of course, it’s not enough to watch videos made by others. have you considered making a 360-degree video yourself and watch it with your VR device? it’s not as difficult as you might think. all that’s required is a 360-degree camera. Such cameras are readily available, including the Ricoh theta S, LG, Samsung, Nikon and taiwan brand Lunad. they are rather light and easy to carry around, but are only capable of taking relatively basic 360-degree movies and you can’t avoid filming yourself into the scene. For something more professional, try the Kodak Sp360 set — two Kodak Sp360s bundled together to have two wide-angle lenses back to back. it also supports 4K video and is water-resistant. however, it is much heavier than a single 360-degree camera. to go one step further, try a circular set of cameras using the 16-camera Gopro. the resulting images will have higher definition and will be more seamless. in fact, Hardcore was made with the main character wearing a helmet-mounted Gopro.
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19-21• Google Cardboard只是用卡紙造成，用家須要自己組 裝，不過很容易。售價：US$15 Google Cardboard is made of cardboard and has to be assembled. The assembly is fairly straightforward, though. Price: US$15. 22-23• LG 360度相機及Ricoh Theta S的外形極為相似，兩者 都可選擇拍攝180度及360度影片。售價：Ricoh Theta S （$450） LG 360 cam （$250） LG 360 camera and Ricoh Theta S look very much alike, and both can shoot 180-degree or 360-degree videos. Price: Ricoh Theta S ($450), LG 360 cam ($250). 24• 由兩部Kodak SP 360 4K組成一set，已經可以拍到高 質360度影片。售價：US$889 /set The set of two Kodak SP 360 4K cameras can be used to make high-quality 360-degree videos. Price: US$889/set 25• Samsung Gear 360外形好像一隻眼，前後都各有一個 廣角鏡頭，輕易就可以拍到360影片。售價：待定 Samsung Gear 360 looks like an eyeball, with wideangled lenses front and back. It’s very handy for making 360-degree movies. Price: TBD. 26-27• 如果組合16部GoPro來拍360影片，當然可以做到無縫 接軌的完美360度，但成本很高，加起來要幾千元。 Putting together 16 GoPros will definitely deliver seamless 360-degree videos, but that pushes the cost much higher, to a few thousand dollars.