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Cesare Attolini Best of the Best by william kissel, contributing fashion editor photography by sergio kurhajec Two-button, notch-lapel, super 180s wool pinstripe suit, $9,000; cashmere V-neck sweater, $975; cotton shirt, $595; cashmere necktie, $300; linen pocket square, $75.
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Model: Herman, dna Model Management; styling: Joseph DeAcetis; assistant stylist: Vaarun Vohra; grooming: Liam Dunn at Bernstein & Andriulli; set and props: Yolande Gagnier.
f soft, natural shoulders, unusually high-notched lapels, and suppressed waists do not make suits and sport coats from Cesare Attolini (+1.212.246.0085; cesareattolini@eljmfashion.com) immediately recognizable, it takes only a peek inside the garments to see how the Neapolitan tailor cuts a jacket like no one else in the world. Attolini’s interior pockets are mounted directly in the coat fabric, not in the inner lining, as are most suitmakers’. This design creates a more durable, rip-resistant, and aesthetically pleasing interior. For greater elasticity and added comfort, the linen waistbands of Attolini’s trousers, which have expandable pleats, are constructed by hand—not produced by machine and added later. And, as with most bespoke garments, all of Attolini’s seams overlap, instead of butting against each other. It is a purely aesthetic detail that can be achieved only by hand. The label, which displays your name and the date the suit was made, requires 20 minutes to apply, by hand, using Attolini’s distinctive zigzag stitch. The brand’s distribution is extremely limited, and Attolini has never sacrificed quality for the sake of greater sales volume. Brothers Massimiliano and Giuseppe Attolini adhered to that principle this past year, when they expanded their father’s business beyond handmade tailored clothing, cotton dress shirts, and silk neckwear. The company’s topcoats, for instance, are made like precision-fit suit jackets, with the characteristic set-in Neapolitan shirtsleeves, and they are cut from vicuña, double-faced cashmere as well as other exclusive fabrics.The company’s first foray into knitwear produced elegant, classic solid and jacquard sweaters, which are knitted individually on 33-gauge machinery using only pure Scottish cashmere yarns. And butter-soft suede outerwear is handmade at the firm’s own atelier in Naples, Italy. The jackets are lined, again by hand, entirely in cashmere.