The most comprehensive cookery book to showcase the exotic flavours of Laos makes a significant contribution to safeguarding the nation's culinary heritage
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Artisan Cuisine
President & CEO's Message
Khamla Phommavanh President & CEO of Lao Airlines
Sabaidee
Dear Passengers,
Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines.
Happy New Year to all of our passengers. On the occasion of New Year 2025, we see it as a new beginning and an opportunity to provide even better service. I want to extend our best wishes for our passengers to be healthy and successful in everything they do, and to be happy and fortunate in this new year.
Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a flight with us again soon.
Safe travels.
With highest respects,
Hello Readers,
Hello Readers,
Welcome to the January-February issue of Champa Meuanglao. Best wishes for a happy new year and fulfilling adventures in Laos. In this issue:
The small town of Champasak is the gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage temple of Vat Phou. Thanks to some new initiatives, there are many reasons to return often and stay longer.
Lao restaurant Doi Ka Noi has published a new book on Lao cuisine. We talked with Noi about her life in Lao food.
Saneha is a jewelry brand blending Lao and western elements into something new, unique, and beautiful.
Have you heard of La Grandiere, the steamboat that sank in the Mekong carrying precious cargo? Read all about it.
Happy Reading!
The Champa Meuanglao team
ADVISORY BOARD
Khamla Phommavanh
Managing Director
Saleum Tayarath
Deputy Managing Director of Commercial and Marketing, ICT
Sitthideth Douangsiththy
Deputy Managing Director of Ground Handling and Cargo
Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.
WHERE SILKS WEAVE STORIES OF THE PAST INTO THE FUTURE
Text by: Jason Rolan
Photos by: Phoonsab Thevongsa
Istand in front of a century-old silk sinh (traditional skirt) that glows like captured moonlight in the morning sun, its gold threads catching the light like stars frozen in indigo silk. The weaver who created this masterpiece has long since passed, but her fingers speak through every intricate motif – nagas curling through lotus blooms, elephants parading beneath celestial diamonds. This isn't just a skirt; it's a poem written in thread, a story told in silk.
T his masterpiece is just one of the countless treasures now on display at the "Textile Treasures of Laos" exhibition, which opened in October at the Hor Kham Residence, just next to the Presidential Palace. Here, the Lao Handicrafts Association has pulled off something remarkable: curating prized heirloom pieces loaned from families across the country for public display.
The exhibition, officially opened by First Lady Madame Naly Sisoulith and Minister of Information, Culture and Tourism Madame Suansavanh Vignaket, spreads across two sections that tell a fascinating story of Lao textile arts. The first room is the heritage hall
with over 100 pieces that showcase traditional Lao weaving at its finest. Each piece tells its own story through complex motifs, from ancient symbols of fertility and protection to patterns representing local folklore and Buddhist mythology. Some of these textiles are older than the French Protectorate and have aged better than any colonial architecture.
The exhibition unfolds across two thoughtfully curated sections. The first space serves as a testament to traditional Lao weaving mastery, displaying over 100 heritage textiles. Among these treasures are intricately patterned sinhs, ceremonial textiles, and household pieces, some dating back more than a century.
In the adjacent gallery, visitors discover how contemporary artisans are taking those ancient motifs and giving them a modern spin. Think traditional naga patterns reimagined on minimalist wall hangings, and centuries-old techniques applied to contemporary fashion pieces. It's like watching tradition do a spectacular forward flip into the 21st century while maintaining the soul of Lao craftsmanship.
The exhibition setting itself enhances the experience. The Hor Kham Residence, with architectural nods to French Indochina and serene gardens, provides an elegant backdrop for these textile treasures. Natural light streaming through
floor-to-ceiling windows illuminates the subtle variations in silk threads and complex weaving patterns, while careful lighting design highlights the textiles' rich colors and intricate details.
For visitors seeking refreshment between galleries, the onsite branch of Naked Espresso offers locally sourced coffee and toothsome snacks. There is something deeply satisfying about sipping a perfectly pulled espresso while contemplating a piece of silk older than your great-grandmother.
The exhibition does more than display beautiful textiles; it demonstrates the depth and sophistication of Lao weaving traditions. Each piece tells multiple stories: the technical mastery of its creator, the cultural significance of its patterns, and the family history it represents.
The contemporary section proves that Lao traditional arts are not fossils in a museum – they are living, breathing forms of expression. Watching young designers work with master weavers to create pieces that honor tradition while pushing boundaries is exactly the kind of cultural evolution that keeps craft traditions relevant. Help support local artisans with the purchase of contemporary pieces and ensure these ancient skills continue to thrive in modern Laos.
For more
The exhibition is located on the southeastern edge of the Presidential Palace and is accessible daily from 9 am to 5 pm. Photography is permitted without flash, allowing visitors to capture the beauty of these extraordinary textiles while ensuring their preservation for future generations.
Getting there:
Lao Airlines has many domestic and international flight routes to
Fair warning after seeing these masterpieces, you will never look at the factory-made sinhs in the morning market quite the same way again. And that's exactly the point.
Time moves like the languid flow of the Mekong in Champasak, where wooden houses peek through palm fronds against the backdrop of the majestic Phou Kao - the sacred mountain that the magnificent UNESCO site of Vat Phou was built to honor. But this sleepy riverside town, the seat of the ancient Champasak Kingdom, has witnessed centuries of change. And thanks to the CHAMPA Project funded by the French Development Agency (AFD), many initiatives are emerging to make the city more attractive in terms of tourist offerings and to allow visitors to stay longer. In particular,locals are now receiving support to preserve and develop the intangible heritage of the area.
Begin in Ban Meuang Sen, where the rhythmic thump of pottery wheels echoes from Mr. Soulivanh's workshop as he shapes clay into stunning Hindu and Buddhist imagery reminiscent of Vat Phou. Nearby, the click-clack of traditional looms draws you to Mrs. Khamdeng's weaving sanctuary, where indigo-stained fingers work threads into intricate patterns that tell stories of Lao heritage (open daily, 11am-2pm and 4pm-8pm).
For a sublime morning walk, follow the Mekong's edge along a thematic trail to Mrs. Kiewsavanh's newly renovated basketry showroom near Meuang Kang temple. Here, strips of bamboo are transformed into delicate vessels, their sweet grassy scent mingling with the river breeze. "The CHAMPA project gave me a proper space to store my work," she says, proudly showing off sticky rice baskets that now survive the monsoon season intact.
The mighty Mekong, once merely admired from the shore, now invites exploration through Anouxa Kayak Service's guided tours (from 275,000 kip per person in groups of 5-10). Paddle downstream from Ban Phou Ngoi, where
fishermen cast nets in the morning light, to Champasak's center, or cross to Don Daeng island's pristine beaches. For those preferring more leisurely river observations, sunset cruises with Irrawaddy Cruise offer front-row seats to the sun's dramatic descent behind palm-fringed banks, to the hidden Tomo temple on the Mekong’s left bank, or Mr. Vieng’s charming homestay on Don Daeng Island in the middle of the river.
As dusk softens the tropical heat, the Palateu Shadow Puppet Theater springs to life (performances Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday at 8:15 pm). In a newly constructed venue next to the tourist office, ancient tales inspired by the Ramayana unfold through intricate shadow puppets, their silhouettes dancing to traditional music. The CHAMPA project also supported the purchase of new traditional instruments and the training of a young generation of artists who will take up the torch in the future.
Champasak's renaissance extends beyond its cultural offerings. At the AD Learning Center, young voices practice English and French, preparing for interactions with international visitors. "We're building bridges between cultures," explains founder Malida, as students role-play guest interactions in a mock hotel reception.
CHAMPASAK
REIMAGINED
PRESERVING AND DEVELOPING THE TOWN’S INTANGIBLE TREASURES
Text by: Jason Rolan
Photos by: Sivixay Manivong /Champa Project Team
Green initiatives are sprouting too. Electric motorbikes hum quietly past colonial-era buildings, their batteries charging at the new station outside Nakorn River View Guest House. Bicycle rentals from Mr. Khemphet's shop (Ban Phoxay) offer a slower-paced exploration of the town's atmospheric lanes and surrounding rice fields.
At Homemade restaurant in Ban Vat Amat, owner Bounmee has transformed his post-COVID restart into a culinary education center. Here, morning cooking classes (book through your guesthouse) reveal the secrets of Lao cuisine, from the perfect sticky rice to aromatic herblaced soups, or his specialty – naem khao, a crispy rice salad. For simpler pleasures, follow your nose to Mrs. Thatsanee's morning bakery, where visitors prepare for their day’s explorations with a belly full of traditional Lao cakes.
In Thang Khop village, reached via a scenic drive toward Vat Phou, a women's collective transforms local bamboo into contemporary bags – a testament to sustainable craft evolution. The sound of splitting bamboo and gentle laughter fills the air as artisans work, their finished products combining traditional techniques with modern design (open daily, 8 am-4 pm).
F or sports enthusiasts, the Champasak Sports Hall offers an energetic counterpoint to the town's serene atmosphere. Here, visitors can engage in friendly yet competitive matches of badminton, basketball, and table tennis, adding a dynamic pulse to their cultural exploration. Those seeking wellness can find solace at the Champasak Spa in Ban Nakorn or join rejuvenating yoga classes at La Folie Lodge on Don Daeng Island, where a tranquil botanical garden complements the holistic experience.
History buffs and temple lovers can extend their stay by exploring the iconic temples of Hong Nang Sida, Hong Thao Tao, and That Sam Phang. These ancient sites offer deeper insights into the rich archaeological landscape of the region. Exciting developments are underway to enhance visitor experiences, with thematic trails being developed to enrich the interpretation of the World Heritage site. In 2025, an interpretation pavilion will open in Houay Sa Houa, located in the Ancient City that dates back to the 5th century AD, complete with a new path to observe ancient structures.
Yet even as change ripples through this ancient town, its soul remains intact. Here, among the frangipani trees and temple spires, traditional life continues its gentle pace, now enriched by the thoughtful development of responsible and sustainable tourism.
The CHAMPA Project continues to weave ambitious plans for Champasak's future, promising to enhance the visitor experience. A comprehensive website brimming with visitor information has
also just launched, offering travelers a digital gateway to the region's rich cultural landscape. Trail enthusiasts will soon discover an expanded network of exploration routes, including an innovative half-day handicraft trail threading through Champasak town and at least two archaeological trails around Vat Phou and the ancient city – perfectly designed for those eager to walk 2-3 hours and immerse themselves in the area's historical depths. Other major developments promise to further
enhance Champasak's appeal – a new Cultural Center rises near the river, while at Phaphin pier, renovation work heralds the arrival of easier connections with the far bank and destinations beyond.
C ultural infrastructure is also receiving careful attention. The Vat Phou Museum is slated for a comprehensive renovation and expansion, promising to provide deeper insights into the region's storied past with new information discovered by LIDAR research also on display. Meanwhile, the library at Vat Meuang Kang undergoes meticulous restoration to preserve the character of this unique structure. The city center and its Mekong riverfront are currently being transformed, creating new spaces for locals and visitors to gather and connect.
Whether arriving by river cruise from Pakse (Mr. Olaivanh: 030 9800252) or local transport, today's Champasak rewards those who linger. In this transformed town, where craft revival meets riverine charm, every temple shadow and workshop doorway holds stories waiting to be discovered.
The CHAMPA Project is a collaborative initiative involving the Vat Phou World Heritage Site Division, Champasak local authorities, and the EFEO (École Française d'Extrême-Orient), generously funded by the French Development Agency (AFD). With a comprehensive approach, the project seeks to safeguard and elevate both cultural and natural
heritage while stimulating local tourism and community development. Through a strategic call for proposals, the project supports 40 local tourism initiatives, championing responsible tourism practices and actively preserving the region's intangible cultural heritage.
For more info, visit: www.tourismchampasak.com, developed by the CHAMPA Project, for a wealth of information on visiting Champasak. Or visit the Tourist Information Center: +856 (0) 20 94290543, located on the square in the town center.
Getting there:
Lao Airlines flies to Pakse from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Siem Reap, and Ho Chi Minh City.
For more fun, check out these festivals:
Vat Phou Festival: 10-12 February 2025
Vat That Festival: May 2025
Pheng That Festival: November 2025
www.tourismchampasak.com,
+856 (0) 20 94290543.
ກຸມພາ 2025
ພຶດສະພາ 2025
ພະຈິກ 2025
A CHILD OF THE RICE FIELDS
Recipes from Noi’s Lao Kitchen
CLeft: Noi making food offerings for her ancestors at the temple
Right: Jaew mak kok, hog plum relish, a quintessentially Lao jaew but one that seldom appears on restaurant menus
elebrated chef Ponpailin Kaewduangdy, known as Noi, has captured the essence of traditional Lao cooking in her new book 'A Child of the Rice Fields: Recipes from Noi's Lao Kitchen.' As the chef and proprietor of Vientiane's renowned restaurant Doi Ka Noi, she's spent years championing authentic Lao cuisine. Champa Meuanglao sat down with her to explore her journey from the rice fields of Khammouane Province to becoming one of Laos' most influential culinary voices.
C an you give us a little background about your restaurant, Doi Ka Noi?
What inspired you to write A Child of the Rice Fields and share your recipes with the world?
My husband is a writer and photographer, so it was the perfect collaborative project. The initial idea was simply to write down and document the recipes I inherited from my grandmother, but it grew into a major 480-page book with 125 recipes and 400 images.
I opened my restaurant, Doi Ka Noi, in 2017. I was compelled to do so because it was difficult to find good Lao food in Vientiane restaurants. They all offered a similar and limited repertoire of standard dishes that were not representative of the food and flavors from my childhood. Nor did they showcase the incredible diversity of seasonal ingredients and the dishes that can be created with them. From day one, my cooking at Doi Ka Noi has focused on fresh, seasonal, and regional Lao dishes as part of a small weekly changing menu.
Photos by Doi Ka Noi
H ow did growing up in a subsistence farming community in Khammouane Province shape your perspective on food and cooking?
Subsistence living necessitates an understanding of the natural rhythms of sow, tend, reap, and preserve; how to care for livestock; catch, kill, and process fish and game animals; and a wealth of inherited knowledge about foraged leaves, shoots, fruits, and vegetables. Today, I still use market-fresh seasonal produce at home, and it shaped the Doi Ka Noi philosophy. I must say, however, that I am deeply concerned about how the diet of most people in Laos has changed and how it is affecting their health.
Can you share a special memory of learning to cook from your grandmother that influenced the book?
My grandmother had a reputation as a talented cook, but she had a stern character. Everything had to be done her way. There were no shortcuts. Under her watchful eye, I helped prepare every meal we ate, learned to build flavor in dishes using few ingredients, and over the years absorbed an incredible wealth of knowledge. As in all traditional kitchens, nothing was measured or written down. I was taught to taste and taste again, to adjust the seasoning with care, and to use my intuition.
My grandmother has long since passed on, but she left me with a deep understanding of my food culture. The food I prepare every day of my life is a tangible memory and a celebration of my love for her.
What do you think makes Lao cuisine unique, and why do you believe it remains relatively unknown?
Defining the food of a country that is home to more than 50 ethnic groups is an almost impossible task! The key tastes in Lao cuisine are spicy, salty, savory, sour, and bitter. There’s also an element of earthiness and woodsy flavors in some dishes. Sweetness barely gets a look-in. Often the cook’s job is to harmonize these flavors. But not always. Sometimes one or two are allowed to dominate. Cooking over charcoal, steaming or grilling in banana leaves, and the use of river fish and foraged ingredients also contribute to the unique character of the food. People will often say the core components are pa daek or sticky rice, but that is not universal. Many ethnicities do not use either.
1: Noi's book has already received international recognition
2: Noi walking to the temple in her village in Khammouane Province
3: Grilled mak phet hai, the chili variety of choice in Laos
4: Jaew mak len, grilled tomato and chili dip with khai phen, fried Mekong river weed
5: The book includes a recipe for sai oua som, a traditional Lao soured pork sausage
How do you incorporate foraged and seasonal ingredients into your recipes, and what challenges or opportunities does this present?
Seasonality is important to me, as are foraged ingredients. Most restaurants will not feature these ingredients because they are usually only available in small amounts and a consistent supply can be difficult. I get around this with a weekly changing menu. The restaurant is only open from Friday to Sunday. Basically, I decide on the menu on Thursday after seeing what is available in the market that day.
W hich dish from the book are you most excited for readers to try, and why?
Goy pa is a classic spicy Mekong fish and herb salad, and arguably the most loved dish in Laos, so definitely try that. But I would say take a deep dive into the world of jaews - extensive family of dips, sauces, and pastes used to enliven simple meals of sticky rice, grilled meats and fish, and steamed vegetables, often with an assertive punch of chili. One of my favorites is jaew mak kok, grilled hog plum jaew, and jaew khai tom, boiled egg jaew. There are 20 or so jaew recipes in the book.
You've mentioned that the book only touches the surface of your knowledge. What aspects of Lao cuisine do you feel are still waiting to be discovered by the wider world?
I am fascinated by the regional and ethnic minority foods of the north, be it Tai Dam, Tai Lue, Lanten, Haw Chinese, and others. At Doi Ka Noi, I regularly feature some of the dishes I have learned on our travels, and these will be the focus of our next book. I must confess to feeling a sense of urgency in the task as lifestyles are changing fast and knowledge is not being passed on like it used to be. It’s important to document the recipes.
“A Child of the Rice Fields: Recipes from Noi’s Lao Kitchen” is available at Doi Ka Noi restaurant in Vientiane. It has already been nominated in two categories in the 30th Gourmand World Cookbook Awards which will be held in Lisbon in June.
the Rice Fields: Recipes
2.
3.
Child of the Rice Fields: Recipes from Noi's Lao Kitchen.'
Treehouses that comprise The View
The View
Text by Jason Rolan
Photos by Phoonsab Thevongsa
Cascading through the jungle-clad hills outside Luang Prabang, Kouang Si Waterfall presents one of Laos’ most mesmerizing natural spectacles. The tiered falls tumble over limestone rocks, creating pools of luminescent turquoise that have long drawn travelers to this site.
Now, visitors can experience this natural wonder from an entirely new perspective. The View, a treehouse cafe concealed in the forest canopy, transforms a vigorous climb up a metal staircase into a journey of discovery. This latest addition from local ecotourism pioneer Inthira Group rewards those who make the ascent with panoramic vistas of the surrounding wilderness, best savored over Lao coffee or cool water included in the entry fee.
F or those seeking more than contemplation, a five-stage zipline course sends adventurers soaring through the canopy. Racing past ancient trees and over the falls themselves, participants gain a thrilling bird's-eye view of the azure cascades below.
1: Ziplining through the forest canopy
2: Treehouses connected by hanging walkways
3: One of the zipline points
1: The View sits at the top of the canopy
2: Kouang Si Falls is a relaxing place on hot days
3: The view from the top
1:
2:
For more information, visit their Facebook: fb.com/TheViewatKuangSiFalls
Getting there:
The View is located 30 km outside of Luang Prabang at Kouang Si Waterfall. Lao Airlines flies to Luang Prabang from Vientiane, Pakse, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Hanoi.
As Vientiane capital is becoming more regionally connected, its food and beverage scene is also becoming more vibrant and dynamic. This month we are celebrating a new Thai restaurant recently opened right in the heart of the city.
Nested in a quaint corner of Anou Village in Sihom neighborhood, is a charming restaurant inside a beautifully restored 1910 colonial home. Stepping into the restaurant is a journey into another place and another time where the trees are majestic and tall and the patina on the walls have love stories to tell. Every part of the dining room is lovingly cared for which can be seen by the hand pressed ancient floral motif on the walls.
Baan Ariya’s menu is a pungent dance of regional Asian herbs and spices. Some of our favorites are Wagyu 9 Spice Massaman Curry, Gaeng Kiew Wan Haeng, and Khao Nhum Liep. From obscure dishes to familiar ones, the consistent threads of the menu are the authenticity of flavors and the gentle but film notes of vibrant aromatics.
To pair with the flower filled restaurant, the ground floor of the building is a stunning gold gilded magenta color bar. feels like a love song, an escape from the busy life of the capital city. The cocktail program is inspired by the story of Ramakien or Ramayana, one of the earliest epics ever recorded of King Rama saving his wife, Nang Sita. Along the 1700 pages with 24,000 verses, he learned the nature of love, suffering, joy, wisdom, and brotherhood. Even though, the journey of Ramayana took place more than 1500 years ago, the humanity of each character still rings familiar to the walks of life today. From referencing Hanuman to Nang Sita, Chada’s menu is a creative and delicious take on this ancient story.
"When you see the view from my work desk, I think you will understand, how fortunate I am to have this daily inspiration in front of me. It is my privilege to sit here with the magnificent Mekong River in front of me. Just look at the light from the sky and the reflections in the water. Forever changing, but somehow always familiar. Knowing that the Nagas - the spirits of the river - are down there below the surface, protecting us all."
Vanida Phimphachanh has chosen to launch her jewelry under the heading Saneha, a key concept in Buddhist philosophy, reflecting the multitude of positive emotions, humans should strive to live by: devotion, affection, love, passion, true friendship, and cohesion.
G old of the finest quality is the key component in her rings, bracelets, and necklaces, but there is more to the design than the exquisite materials.
The Spirit of Laos
"I am constantly looking for ways to embody the spirit of the Lao people and our rich culture in my collections. I would never be bold enough to claim that I have succeeded fully in doing so, but the overwhelming response from my customers tells me that I am moving in the right direction as my roots get stronger and more meaningful."
Vanida Phimphachanh grew up in France and spent most of her life there, the only child of a Lao mother and a Vietnamese father, who immigrated to Europe, when her father got a grant to study medicine in France.
"I did not have any other Lao relatives around me as a child. I was raised in the French language and culture. I even learned to drink wine and eat strong French cheese. I was also brought up in the very creative culture of France, but as a young woman I started to mix European blouses in a Parisian style with a sinh (Lao skirt) or a Lao shawl to express my true identity."
Vanida Phimphachanh's first visit to Laos in 1990 made a very strong impression on her.
"I discovered, where I really come from, when I encountered the kindness and the smiles of the Lao people, wherever I met them. I was seduced by the scent of Lao herbs and the multitude of flowers in my grandmother’s garden. I was fascinated with the beauty of colors – the rice fields and the saffron robes of the monks, just to name a few. The diversity of patterns in Lao fabrics was a revelation to me.”
Life lessons in Laos
“ At first, I got involved in my mother’s weaving company, which had become so successful that even the New York Times wrote about the Oudone P. brand. This led me to develop my own creativity within interior decoration, based as much as possible on local materials. It might surprise some, but for me, it was a logical step further in my career to focus on jewelry, even though it was – and still is – a challenge to enter into this very protectionist business with many famous brands around the world. However, being in Laos has been very helpful for me with what we call the ‘slow life’ – meaning that people can take the time they need to achieve their goals. In addition, I am surrounded by amazing artisans to support me. I have so many people to thank for the opportunity to develop my brand, Saneha, now with my own store in Vientiane and a reseller in Luang Prabang.”
1: The Diamond Pagoda necklace
2: The Monsoon and the Banyan Leaves necklaces, the Naga bracelet, and the Pagoda earrings
3: The Pagoda collection
Coping with the challenges
“Of course, it is a challenge to do business in the current economic environment. I am fortunate to have a growing number of returning customers, who also share my collections with their friends and family. I am receiving special orders for important occasions, such as weddings and anniversaries in the family. The diplomatic community in Vientiane is very supportive of me. A growing number of expatriates, including tourists, have become aware of my collections. I am very much touched by the fact that members of the Lao diaspora are becoming customers as well. I think they see the Saneha collections as symbols of their own identity.
Do you see yourself as Lao-French-Vietnamese –perhaps a living reminder of colonial history?
“Haha, yes, you may say so. In any case, I am certainly proud of my heritage and happy to have this unique mix of genes. I think my soul is very much Lao. My collection Strings of Blessing is inspired by the Baci ritual. I acknowledge the importance of the spiritual world and its invisible energies. In this context you also find the reason why I work with gold, because I see it as an everlasting material, making it very meaningful for gifts coming from infinite affection and love.”
You have had great success with your most recent work, especially the collections called ‘Banyan leaves’, ‘Mythical animals’, ‘Pagoda’, and ‘Monsoon’.
“They are based on my life in Laos, and what I experience here. I believe I only started. There is so much more here to inspire my work. Laos has a rich history of cultural traditions and a huge diversity, if you consider the tribal communities in our country. “
What will be in the next Saneha collection?
“The slow pace of life in Laos is very important to me. You will have to wait and see. I will do my best to reward the patience of my customers with jewelry, which will help them appreciate the cultural values of the Lao people.”
More info:
Visit Saneha’s website (by-saneha.com) and the flagship store in Vientiane near Wat Ong Teu or their collection at Maison Sam San in Luang Prabang
Getting there:
Lao Airlines has many domestic and international flight routes to Vientiane
Thomas Bo Pedersen
Sali Sasaki
A GRAND JOURNEY ON THE MEKONG
Celebrate the charm of yesteryear aboard the luxurious 42-metre, 13-cabin Bohēme, sailing down the Mekong in timeless style. Days drift by with excursions to remote villages, temples, and waterfalls, followed by cocktails at sunset and dinner parties under the stars. Unwind in the comfort of your modern suite, enjoying uninterrupted views of the mountains and village life as you drift peacefully downriver.
mekongkingdoms.com
Mysteries of the Mekong
The search for La Grandière
Text by Anita Preston
Photos by Anita Preston / Evensong Film
1: The Mekong churns in southern Laos
2: Rocks, rapids, and sandbars dot the river
" The Mekong doesn’t give up her secrets easily, "
a National Geographic team remarked in 2009 after an ambitious attempt to locate a legendary treasure. What lies beneath the river’s murky depths? The story of La Grandière—a steamship carrying priceless artifacts and a shroud of mystery— continues to intrigue adventurers and historians alike.
Getting there:
Lao Airlines flies to Luang Prabang from Vientiane, Pakse, Hanoi, Bangkok, Siem Reap and Chiang Mai
It all began in 1893 when La Grandière, a state-of-theart steamship built in France, made its way to Southeast Asia. Prefabricated in France and reassembled in Saigon, the ship was destined to navigate the mighty Mekong River under the flag of the Messageries Fluviales de Cochinchine, a prominent river shipping company. The ship faced a formidable challenge to reach Laos: the thunderous Khone Pha pheng Falls, a natural barrier at the 4000 Islands region. Ingeniously, the French dismantled the vessel, transporting its pieces across Don Khone Island via Laos’ first railway—a feat symbolizing human determination against nature.By the early 1900s, La Grandière was a familiar sight on the Mekong, earning its Lao nickname, Kampan Nyai (the colossal boat). But its greatest voyage would also be its last.
In 1910, French General Léon de Beylie arrived in Luang Prabang, drawn by its rich cultural heritage. Born in Strasbourg, Beylie was a career soldier and an avid art collector fascinated with Asia’s spiritual treasures. During an informal visit with King Sisavangvong, Beylie proposed borrowing religious artifacts for a special exhibition at the Louvre. The king reluctantly agreed though removing sacred objects from their homes was considered deeply taboo.
Under the cover of darkness, golden Buddha statues, jeweled ornaments, and ancient relics—including treasures
from the revered Wat Visoun—were loaded onto La Grandière. Locals whispered of unease, describing the ship’s smoke stacks as resembling a devil’s breath. At dawn, the colossal boat departed, carrying its controversial cargo southward.
Disaster struck near Tha Deua, Xayaboury Province, in a perilous stretch of rapids known for its treacherous waters. La Grandière floundered and sank, taking with it its passengers, crew, and priceless artifacts. The tragedy shook the colonies. While the bodies were recovered for a state funeral in Saigon, the treasure disappeared beneath the Mekong, buried in layers of silt and sediment.
The story of La Grandière and its precious cargo has become an integral part of Mekong folklore, adding another layer to the rich tapestry of Luang Prabang's cultural heritage. Local elders still share tales of the magnificent vessel, and its memory lives on in the region's oral traditions.
The allure of history continues to draw adventurers to the Mekong's waters. In 2009, a National Geographic team equipped with cutting-edge sonar technology embarked on an ambitious expedition, documented in "The Lost Buddhas of the Mekong." While the river's powerful currents and complex underwater topography presented significant challenges, their journey highlighted the remarkable
advances in marine archaeology.
Today's travelers can experience their own Mekong adventure through various river cruises that trace La Grandière's historic route. Local operators offer everything from traditional slow boats to luxury vessels, each providing unique perspectives on the river's grandeur. The journey from Luang Prabang takes you past golden temples, vibrant villages, and dramatic limestone cliffs—scenes that have remained largely unchanged since La Grandière's time.
Visitors to Luang Prabang can delve deeper into this fascinating history at the National Museum, housed in the former Royal Palace. Here, an impressive collection of Buddhist artifacts helps visitors understand the artistic and spiritual significance of the lost treasures. The nearby Wat Visoun, with its distinctive stupa and extensive collection of Buddhist art, offers another window into the region's rich religious heritage.
With its swirling eddies and tranquil stretches, the river holds a magnetic allure. It’s easy to see why the Mekong has captured the imagination of explorers for centuries—it is a river that guards its mysteries well. Will the treasure of La Grandière ever resurface? For now, the Mekong keeps her secrets, leaving travelers to wonder what lies beneath her depths.
1: An old train engine on display
2: An article on La Grandiére in a French newspaper
3: La Grandiére parked on the Mekong shore
Expert tip: Plan your river excursion during the early morning hours when the light is soft and the water is at its calmest. This is when local fishermen set out in their boats, creating perfect photo opportunities against the misty backdrop of the Mekong.
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FINDING PEACE IN PHOU PHANANG
DISCOVER NATURE AND SERENITY NEAR VIENTIANE
Text by: Endy Khamsing
Translated by: Nick Pugh
Photos by: Vilavanh Chanthavong
Getting there:
The trailhead for this hike begins about 30km west of Vientiane at Wealth Coffee
Phou Phanang is one of the National Parks of Laos. It spans an area of 70,000 hectares and is situated to the west of Vientiane. The section of the park I will be visiting today is near Ang Yai village in Sikhottabong district. Traveling out to Phou Phanang takes around 40 minutes by car traveling westward from downtown Vientiane along the Mekong riverbank before reaching Wealth Coffee, a cafe where you can take a break from the trip before starting your hike into the forest and all the pristine scenery of Phou Phanang. Wealth Coffee also functions as a campsite and provides tents, for those who need them. They have their own campsite available with advance reservation.
As dusk approaches, a campfire is lit for everyone to keep warm from the chilly breezes. After this, I enjoyed some drinks while taking in the peaceful natural atmosphere under the shining starlit sky before turning in for a solid night’s sleep to recharge me for the journey and dazzling sights to come.
The following morning, I set off with a group of other tourists moving off in the same direction being led by a small dog named Deng, which had the duty of leading visitors to the scenic spots. The trail leading
up covered around five kilometers and took an hour or more, depending on the speed of the hikers. The trail led us up some challenging slopes and across some barren landscapes but remained within the capability of the novice hikers although they were careful to follow the routes taken by Deng and hikers leading the group to ensure they did not lose their way.
As we approached a scenic viewpoint, we came across a merit-making spot situated under a large stone slab, where there were two Buddha images and one gong. Not far from the stone slab area, the Phou Phanang scenic spot could finally be found and once beheld, the picture turned out to be well worth the two-hour laborious struggle up the mountain. It is the very epitome of picturesque nature and was adorned by a glorious panorama of lesser
1: Beautiful views await at the top of the mountain
2: Some of the unique rock formations in the area
3: Walking among unusual boulders
summits pasted against a pure white background. The Mekong riverbank can be seen reflecting our country’s abundance in all its grandeur. Speaking for myself, I could easily sit here all day without a shred of boredom. Each time I visit, I feel one with the splendor of nature and this relieves me of that which denies my mind peace by allowing myself to be cleansed from all such troubles from my being.
Phou Phanang could be considered as the lungs of Sikhottabong district where both domestic and foreign tourists go to visit its serenity and superlative magnificence. If in need of a lungful of fresh air and peaceful natural relaxation in addition to a challenging but rewarding hike without venturing too far out of the capital, Phou Phanang would be a fantastic option for this weekend.
Located in the heart of Luang Prabang, 15-minute drive from the International Airport, Villa Maly Boutique Hotel offers 32 tastefully designed rooms, featuring a French colonial décor, in refurbished structures originally built in 1938, surrounded by a lush tropical garden. Escape to a place where time slows, and home truly awaits.
LAO AIRLINES’ 35TH ANNIVERSARY
Lao Airlines State Enterprise celebrated its 35th anniversary in Vientiane, marking decades of growth and development in the national aviation sector. Minister of Public Works and Transport, Mr. Ngampasong Muongmany, praised the airline's remarkable progress since its establishment in 1989.
Managing Director Mr. Khamla Phommavanh highlighted the airline's commitment to delivering high-quality air transport services, prioritizing safety and professionalism. Despite challenges such as the COVID-19 pandemic, rising fuel prices, and increasing competition, the airline remains resilient.
Looking forward, Lao Airlines aims to strengthen regional and international connectivity through seven core goals: safety, service excellence, employee professionalism, financial sustainability, network expansion, partnership development, and reputation enhancement.
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SIEM REAP FLIGHT SCHEDULE
07:30 11:50 VIENTIANE-(xPKZ)-SIEMREAP TUE, THU & SAT QV515/513 08:30 11:50
