Champa Meuanglao: August–October 2021 by Champa Meuanglao

RIVER DEEP, MOUNTAIN HIGH Experience Luang Namtha

THE

RUINS

THE CHARM OF PHONGSALY

ARAN

Laos’ highest provincial capital

AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

Sabaidee Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines. For the past year, our world has had to cope with the crisis of Covid-19 and the Lao PDR has responded brilliantly. There are still economic challenges to face, but with vaccination programs beginning throughout the region, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. Lao Airlines considers passenger safety the highest priority and recently we created protective measures to boost conﬁdence from our passengers including taking temperatures before beginning our jobs, wearing face masks at all times, and regularly sanitizing aircraft. In addition to safety measures, we are pleased to announce that all of our employees have been fully vaccinated against Covid-19 and are ready to serve every passenger. We are honored to be an ardent supporter of the Lao Thiao Lao domestic tourism campaign and are pleased to see such interest from our passengers in exploring new areas of the country. This initiative is a fantastic method to sustain the tourism industry during these difﬁcult times. On behalf of the board of directors and all of the staff of Lao Airlines, thank you for choosing us, and allowing us to serve you.

Safe travels. With highest respect, Khamla Phommavanh Managing Director & CEO of Lao Airlines

Hello readers, Welcome to the August— October issue of Champa Meuanglao. In this issue, we are pleased to continue supporting the national Lao Thiao Lao domestic tourism campaign and highlight interesting and unique places in Laos. See how Ford has brought the latest in American automotive technology to Laos. Visit a new state-of-the art tourism training facility in Vang Vieng.

COVER IMAGE Na Heup Village a few kilometers beyond Aran, Khammouane Photo: Phonesavanh Chanthavong

Get a look at Luang Prabang from the other side of the Mekong in Chomphet. Also, learn about the interesting sights and delicious food to be found in Meuang Sing.

PUBLISHING

Go on a quest to the ancient ruined city of Aran in Khammouane Province and enjoy the uniqueness of Laos’ far northernmost province, Phongsaly. Savor the heritage charm waiting around every corner in Savannakhet and see why we have to keep going back.

Editor In Chief Editors

Managing Editor Contributing Editors Creative Director

Happy Reading! The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team In light of the current Covid-19 situation throughout the world, please be aware that certain activities, festivals, sites, businesses, and events mentioned in this magazine may not be open and operating as planned. Do exercise good judgment, maintain safety precautions, and follow the directions of Lao authorities at all times.

Assistant Designer Contributing Writers

Head Photographer Contributing Photographers

ADVISORY BOARD

Jason Rolan Cameron Darke Aditta Kittikhoun Duangtavanh Oudomchith Angkhana Vongphukdy Jochen Moravek Thanouphet Maniseng Anita Preston Gerry Paster Kate Meadley Mick Shippen Phoonsab Thevongsa Anita Preston / Evensong Film Mick Shippen Phonesavanh Chanthavong

Khamla Phommavanh Managing Director Somsamay Visounnarath Deputy Managing Director of Technical and Flight Operation Saleum Tayarath Deputy Managing Director of Commercial and Marketing, ICT Sitthideth Douangsiththy Deputy Managing Director of Ground Handling and Cargo

ADVERTISING Sales & Marketing Manager

Prae Phongpipatkul prae.phongpipatkul@rdkgroup.la (856-20) 95646578

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com Follow the official Facebook Page at www.facebook.com/laoairlines to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos.

RDK GROUP 134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

DISCLAIMER

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2021 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com

AUGUST—OCTOBER 2021

CONTENTS

22 34 10

FOOD CAPITAL

TRAVEL

EDUCATION

The foodie's guide

The charm of Phongsaly

The Academy Training

to Vientiane

Hotel and Restaurant

EXPERIENCE

BUSINESS

ADVENTURE

Luang Namtha delivers

Shift into high gear with

The ruins of Aran

unique experiences

Ford

SNAPSHOT

EXPLORE

ON THE AIR

Savannakhet –

The hidden side of the

Lao Airlines information

the city of heaven

Mekong

FOOD CAPITAL

food CAPITAL

Vientiane Capital – a town of exciting cuisines and dining experiences, with everything from sizzling street fare, cafe cool, or ﬁne dining gourmandise. BY KATE MEADLEY ITALIAN

CAFE

THE ITALIAN JOB The Italian Job is Vientiane’s very own piece of Italy, favored by many locals and Italians. Every dish is a must-try, but the pizzas are the ones you can’t miss! Finding authentic Italian food may be difﬁcult when the country is on the other side of the world. The restaurant is located in a quiet residential area in Thongkang Village, go past Manee Spa and you’ll ﬁnd it just a bit further on the left. The atmosphere is very cozy and children love the playground. This restaurant is the perfect place to have authentic Italian food and is owned and run by an Italian man, so you know the taste is genuine. Their sister restaurant ‘Pizza Da Roby’ or PDR for short is just on the other side of town, also serving delicious pizzas that will make you say “Delizioso!”.

THE MINISTRO COFFEE

don't miss

Nduja Pizza & Homemade Limoncello

Sokpaluang Road open daily 12 pm– 2 pm and 5.30 pm– 9.45 pm @TheItalianJobVientiane

KOREAN STREET FOOD

KOJU VIENTIANE

Quai Fa Ngum Road Mon–Tue and Thurs–Sun 6 pm – 11 pm @Kojuvte

don't miss

Spicy Fried Crispy Chicken

Koju is frequented by the youths of Vientiane as a place to unwind the day by the Mekong River. Do you love Korean Dramas? The tent bar at Koju Vientiane will transport you there! Tent bars are very common in Korean culture and where better to experience Korean nightlife in Vientiane than at Koju. The bar is easy to spot as it is located in an open area by the Mekong and close to Tummour Restaurant. Try various popular Korean street foods and have a drink with friends!

A minimalist cafe in the city center, The Ministro Coffee is popular for its selection of vibrant and aromatic beverages, and visually pleasing desserts. The location is great for brunch, to just relax and read a book, do some work on your laptop, or to satisfy your sweet tooth. To reach the café, take the road that leads to Wattay Airport and then turn right when you reach the traffic lights at the Nakham Church, in less than 50 meters you’ll see the cafe on your right. If you are a cafe hopper or love to take photos in cafes, don’t miss this place or you’ll miss out on the perfect place to take your next profile picture. Souphanouvong Road open daily 8 am– 6 pm @TheMinistroCoffee

don't miss

Strawberry Smoothie & Fruity Croissant

THE

Charm OF

PHONGSALY Laos’ highest provincial capital is also highly unique TEXT BY GERRY PASTER PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

A farmer picks tea leaves

ight up in the far north of Laos, amid spectacular mountain scenery, you will find one of the most delightful little towns in all of Laos. It's built on the side of Mount Phou Fa, some 1625 meters high, and the capital of the little-visited Phongsaly Province which pokes like a finger into China. Phongsaly town is a rather special place, with its historic old town made up of charming stone-paved streets and traditional one and two-story houses, tumbling down the hillside. It's a traditional Yunnanese settlement that is largely inhabited by the Phounoy and Haw minorities who fled there from famines and wars in China in the 19th century. Many of their prosperous houses display richly decorated facades, carved wooden doors, windows, and balconies, making a very attractive street scene. It is notable for being one of the last surviving traditional Yunnanese towns, as those in China were mostly destroyed during China's Cultural Revolution. Phongsaly has been by turns a Chinese, Vietnamese, and French outpost. A treaty brought it into French Laos in 1895 but it’s always been an edgy remote neighborhood, with revolts and insurrections taking cover among the mountains and forests. You can still visit the impressive French Fort which dominates the town. It is probably the most rewarding part of Laos for trekking as it is certainly one of the least visited, most unspoiled, and ethnically diverse provinces. Every day you will see many of the colorfully dressed ethnic minority women in the streets and markets of the town. The neighboring forests, limestone mountains, and nearby Ou River valley are home to at least 22 ethnic groups, but some count up to 40, and there are said to be 14 types of Akha tribes. It's worth pointing out that the Museum of Phongsaly Ethnic Groups describes the ways of life, clothing, customs, and traditions of the many different ethnicities of the province and is a most rewarding visit. AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

TRAVEL

Every square meter is precious and used, for little gardens or drying the green tea, for which the town is famous, packed in the traditional wicker containers, ready for transportation. You can rent a bike and pedal to Ban Komaen, about 15 kilometers away to see the extensive 400-year-old tea plantations. And there's also a tea factory in the town where you can see how the tea is processed. Towering over the town is the Phou Fa Stupa, which gives awesome views of the surrounding misty mountains after you have climbed the 800 steps to the top. There is also a road to the top and a welcome picnic spot halfway up. Nearby places to explore are a few old Leu and Haw temples. Only about 5 kilometers from town on a rough road is Ban Khounsouk Noi where you can visit the distillery which makes the green rice alcohol which is the very drinkable specialty of the region. What is more, it is only about 20 kilometers to the headwaters of the Ou River where you used to be able to take a boat all the way downstream to the Mekong,

GETTING THERE Phongsaly is only a few hours drive from Oudomxay. Lao Airlines has daily ﬂights to Oudomxay from Vientiane.

one of the wildest and spectacular river journeys in Southeast Asia. Nowadays a number of dams providing hydroelectricity would break up that voyage and make your trip more difﬁcult. On the other hand, as the road has been much improved, you can get there easily in a day from Oudomxay. And being high in the cool mountains, as climate change progresses, Phongsaly could easily become a summer resort, like the hill stations of Vietnam and India.

1. A beautiful heritage building in Phongsaly's old quarter 2. Market sellers displaying their wares 3. Phou Fa Stupa, the highest point in the city 4. The streets of the old quarter resemble a movie set 5. The Museum of Phongsaly Ethnic Groups 6. A hillside tea plantation

5 6

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TRAVEL

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EDUCATION

OPEN FOR

BUSINESS The Academy Training Hotel and Restaurant TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY SKILLS FOR TOURISM PROJECT (LAO/029)

MORE INFO The Academy Training Hotel & Restaurant, Vang Vieng tel.: +856 30 522 1052, email: theacademytraining hotel@gmail.com facebook: @TheAcademy. VangVieng

he Academy Training Hotel and Restaurant in Vang Vieng has recently opened and is now welcoming guests for overnight stays, meals, and hosting meetings and workshops. The Academy is part of Vientiane Province Technical College, offering students of tourism and hospitality programs a unique practical training environment in the heart of Vang Vieng. Staffed by students, these budding young professionals are overseen by their teachers and an international management team while developing their core skills and preparing to enter the workforce.

While guests experience The Academy as a unique hotel and restaurant offering delicious food with enthusiastic staff, it's much more than that – this really is all about education. By staying and dining here, it allows students to acquire skills and knowledge more directly linked to their future. Developed to provide a "real-world" hotel environment The Academy provides students with a unique practical training opportunity using a fully integrated teaching and learning education approach. Students are prepared to become future hospitality workers, providing the industry with a cohort of well-trained, enthusiastic graduates. The hotel, with rooms available from 150,000 LAK per night, offers six guest bedrooms that blend style and comfort with simplicity. Each bedroom has a private balcony and is equipped with A/C, LCD TV, WiFi, minibar, complimentary tea/coffee

making facilities, and ensuite bathroom, with the price including breakfast as well. Not only will you get a comfortable night’s sleep in one of the charming bedrooms, but you will sleep soundly in the knowledge that your money (and your time) spent in The Academy is contributing to the futures of the young people working here. Chef Serge Selbe, the owner of Vientiane’s Pimentón Restaurant and a professional with over 30 years of industry experience, has been working with the teachers and students to set up a delicious fusion menu blending international and local produce, combining fresh ingredients, native herbs, and spices to create innovative yet simple dining options. Just by sleeping and eating delicious food here, you are contributing directly to supporting educational opportunities for young Lao students! With the current border closures and lack of international tourist arrivals, The Academy is looking to supplement the domestic visitors and utilize its fully equipped meeting facilities for hosting Government, Embassies, NGOs, and corporate workshops. Only a one-hour highway drive from Vientiane, The Academy offers a delightful spot to host your upcoming training workshop or meeting. The essence of responsible tourism is not just that it does no harm, but that it enhances the destination for the beneﬁt of

left: Students of the Academy Training Hotel and Restaurant 1. The bar and dining room 2. A comfortable guest room 3. The Academy Training Hotel and Restaurant

local communities and tourists alike. The Academy attempts to do this by offering an international quality hotel and restaurant, while at the same time enhancing the practical skills of the students, many of which are from poor family backgrounds. This practical training and experience provides the students with the key foundational skills they need to embark on a professional career in tourism and hospitality – one that can provide for themselves and their families, and as is often the case in Laos, supports younger siblings to be able to continue their own education. So why not look to host your next meeting or workshop here and support the development of these young students? Your patronage of The Academy will support training and encourage students to reach their full potential and become providers in their families and have a brighter future. 1

2 3

The Academy Training Hotel and Restaurant is supported by the Skills for Tourism Project (LAO/029) Project, co-ﬁnanced by the Governments of Lao PDR, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, and Switzerland, and implemented by the Ministry of Education and Sports of Lao PDR and the Luxembourg Development Cooperation Agency (LuxDev).

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EDUCATION

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RIVER DEEP, MOUNTAIN HIGH Luang Namtha delivers a range of unique experiences TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICK SHIPPEN

ocated on the edge of the Nam Ha National Park, the town of Luang Namtha is an excellent base for exploring the far north. A highlight for visitors is the Luang Namtha Valley Route, a self-guided loop that can be explored by bicycle or scooter. Created by the Lao Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism with the support of tourism professionals from New Zealand, the route’s 35 kilometers of tarmac roads and red dirt trails meander through scenic countryside, past vegetable gardens, across a rickety bamboo suspension bridge, and through ethnic villages. There is no shortage of interesting pit stops along the way, such as old temples, a handicraft center selling textiles, and Ban Nam Dee where Lanten women, their hands stained blue from indigo dye, sit in the shade spinning cotton and sewing, Ban Hat Yao, a Hmong village known for embroidery, a sacred forest with

a Tai Dam cemetery, and much more. Everything is clearly signposted along the way and there are information boards providing fascinating insights into the culture, traditions, and crafts that you will ﬁnd in each village. The entire loop can be done in three to four hours, or one to two hours if you opt for the shorter route but with noodle shops along the way, and plenty of side trips, it is best to make a day of it…even two. Maps are available from most hotels and guesthouses. Other sights of interest in Luang Namtha include a golden stupa that crowns the hill in the center of town and a small night market. Of course, the town was once well-known as a base for trekking but many businesses closed in the last year or only offer a limited service, so check when you are in town to see if guided treks are available. Scooters and bicycles can be hired from several shops on the main street.

AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

EXPERIENCE

A CULINARY ADVENTURE Luang Namtha’s ethnic diversity, agreeable climate, fertile valleys, and abundant forests, make the province one of the most fascinating in Laos for those with an interest in regional cuisines and food producers. In Luang Namtha town, the morning market has numerous stalls serving up the northern breakfast favorite of hand-cut khao soi noodles served in a broth topped with a ragu-type sauce of pork, tomatoes, and fermented soybean paste. There’s also the less familiar; namely, khao leng feun, a set boiled rice flour paste, cut into chunks and served in a refreshing light soup, often flavored with hibiscus, tomatoes, and tamarind, and enlivened with a spoonful of spicy ginger jeo. At Sokxai restaurant, the cook and owner, Mae Ouan, offers a varied menu of delicious old-school northern Lao cuisine. Recommended dishes include oua paa, fried fish parcels stuffed with herbs, tom jeo paa, fish and aubergine stew, an exemplary or

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has daily ﬂights to Luang Namtha. For more information, visit luangnamthatourism.org

lam mou, northern pork and vegetable stew, a local favorite, kaeng nor wai, rattan soup, and soup phak, seasonal foraged vegetables. Aim to arrive about 5.30 pm and enjoy the lovely scenic sunset river view with a cold Beerlao and pork ribs with ginger, garlic, and lime leaves. Sokxai restaurant (tel: 020 58420555) is located a couple of kilometers north of the town center on the road to Meuang Sing.

WHERE TO STAY IN LUANG NAMTHA There are several good guesthouses in town, including standard offerings at the well-run Thoulasith (086 212 166), and Phou Iu III Bungalows, a characterful and relaxing resort of wood and bamboo accommodation set in a lush garden (0209944 0084).

SADDLE-UP AND GO It's worth hiring a scooter in Luang Namtha and heading further north to Meuang Sing. The winding 57 km ride takes you upward through beautiful mountain scenery, past ethnic minority villages,

and a couple of roadside markets, before descending to the Meuang Sing valley. At ﬁrst glance, the typically ramshackle town seems to have little to offer but dig deep and there are lots to hold a traveler’s interest for several days. Meuang Sing has a bustling fresh market where you are likely to see several different ethnicities, including Akha, Yao, and Tai Dam. For breakfast, there are khao soi stalls aplenty as the noodles are made in the nearby village of Ban Sili Heuang but look out for locally made tofu. Cooked dishes using this soft and silky bean curd are available at breakfast stalls in the market. For lunch or dinner, head to the Tai Lue restaurant, set in a faded claret-colored timber building on the town’s main street. There is no printed menu. Diners simply look in the large glass-fronted fridge and discuss the possibilities with the cook. You will not be disappointed but be warned, portions are enormous.

WHERE TO STAY IN MEUANG SING Phou Iu II Bungalows are built around the resort’s organic vegetable garden. The rooms are basic but comfortable and it’s pleasant to sit on the small veranda in the evening enjoying the peace and quiet. The staff is also friendly and a good source of information about what to do in the area. Tel: 020 55 985 557. 2

1. Fresh hand-cut khao soi noodles for sale in the local markets 2. Lanten woman are known for indigo dyed fabric and for embroidery 3. Making khao soi noodles at Ban Sili Heuang 4. The small but charming Vieng Neua Kao temple, Luang Namtha 4 AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

EXPERIENCE

AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

EXPERIENCE

BUSINESS

GO FURTHER Shift into high gear with Ford TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

raveling in airplanes is certainly fast and convenient, but to help you reach places farther aﬁeld, there is Ford Laos. Distributed in the country by RMA Laos, Ford has continually lifted the standard of excellence and service in the automotive sector, while offering the best in American engineering. Headquartered in Bangkok, RMA Group is a leading provider of automotive, equip-

ment, services, and food brands in Southeast Asia and the group now serves 14 countries throughout the region. RMA Group ﬁrst made inroads into Laos in 1994 supporting infrastructure developmeant projects across the country. “At that time, we began with only a small number of staff based in Vientiane,” recalls Mr. Wayne McIntosh, Automotive Director at RMA Laos. He adds, “since then we have grown consistently year-on-year, and now are proud to employ 632 people throughout the country.” In Laos, the company has brought in a very diverse portfolio of brands. In the automotive sector, RMA is the authorized distributor of Jaguar, Land Rover, Mahindra, and since 2001, Ford vehicles. These

include popular pickups like the Ranger Raptor and Wildtrak, as well as commercial vehicles, such as the Transit, Happy Bus, Executive Bus and an array of vans. Ford vehicles are available for a test drive at Lao Ford City dealerships located in Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Savannakhet, and Pakse. Pricing is strategically optimized to offer the lowest total cost of ownership for Lao customers and financing solutions are available through RMA’s subsidiary BSP-Devco. Ford’s in-house team of mechanics offer fast and efficient after-sales service and maintenance at authorized service centers at each Lao Ford City. The company also owns Quicklane, offering total vehicle service and routine maintenance solutions for any brand of automobile, from tire replacement to oil changes to new batteries to air-conditioning repair. “Lao customers are demanding longer intervals between maintenance checkups, greater fuel efficiency, and extended warranties combined with Roadside Assistance, in the rare instance there is a breakdown,” said McIntosh. Customers who are located far away from a service center can take advantage of Ford’s Mobile Workshops around the country, a special service to provide

left: Wayne McIntosh and the sales team at Ford Laos 1. The trained service team is ready to assist 2. The Ford Laos family

tailormade on site full service and maintenance solutions at any location. Besides offering a diverse array of vehicles and a full package of ﬁnancing and maintenance options, what is the secret to RMA’s success? “It’s easy,” said McIntosh, “for 27 years, RMA Laos has been fortunate to have a great team who looks after our customers and delivered a superior level of service. Our winning formula begins with our people.”

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BUSINESS

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THE OF

ADVENTURE

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ADVENTURE

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ADVENTURE

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SNAPSHOT

SAVANNAKHET — HEAVEN THE CITY OF

TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS

JASON ROLAN

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aos’ second city, situated on the Mekong at a major crossroads linking Thailand and Vietnam, Savannakhet has been inﬂuenced by many different cultures. The province is also the country’s most populous and is a signiﬁcant area of natural wildlife. The city itself was built up by the French to be an important trading port which attracted many Chinese and Vietnamese traders. In the past decade, there has been a focus on renovating old buildings downtown, rather than demolishing them, which gives the city a more authentic feeling. From crumbling French buildings to cozy Vietnamese cafes to Thai hipster drinking spots to ancient Lao Buddhist temples, this low-key city is a fusion of inspiration worth exploring.

AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

SNAPSHOT

1. An abandoned building from the French Colonial era 2. A spiral staircase inside a cafe at the Lao Chaleun Cinema 3. An antique Peugeot bicycle, now a decoration 4. Modern artists have left their mark with colorful street art 5. A trendy retro boutique in Savannakhet 5

AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

SNAPSHOT

1. Wooden assembly halls are rarities in Laos 2. A huge Buddha ﬂanked by smaller Buddha statues 3. One of Savannakhet's most unusual landmarks – this stilted library – raised above water to protect the ancient manuscripts from insects.

AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

SNAPSHOT

1. The iconic That Ing Hang stupa is the holiest in Savannakhet 2. Seno sits at a vital crossroads and is a popular place for local grilled chicken 3. Vendors sell mangos, grilled eggs, and chicken to buses as they pass 4. You can gaze at Thailand from the new promenade on the Mekong River

Artisan

Designer

18k Gold Jewelry Vientiane, Lao PDR

Healthy little seeds for strong little bodies

Linthong tries to peek over his classmates’ shoulders to see what’s for lunch today. “Lentils,” he turns to grin at his friend Sa, who eagerly reaches to get his food tray. The friends sit down at their desks and start digging in: The fried rice on their tray contains carrot, pumpkin and lentils, and the soup is made with ﬁsh, morning glory, herbs and spices.

WFP's Syvongxay shows government staﬀ and school cooks in Oudomxay province how to prepare lentil curd

Laos. “We are experimenting with lentil curd and milk, and the children love the lentil laap we have started to prepare,” says WFP District Community Facilitator Syvongxay in Houn district, Oudomxay province. “At the same time, we teach them how to grow nutritious food that is local, so that soon, they don’t need our support anymore.” WFP's Syvongxay shows government staﬀ and school cooks in Oudomxay province how to prepare lentil curd. Lingthong and Sa enjoy their school lunch

SAVING LIVES CHANGING LIVES

The boys live in the remote village of Thaenkhaen by the banks of the Ou river in Luang Prabang province, reachable only by boat and several hours of driving on a bumpy dirt track. The primary school students in Thaenkhaen are receiving daily healthy lunches through the United Nations World Food Programme (WFP) Laos. The meals are cooked with rice, lentils, ﬁsh and cooking oil from the school meals program, which is funded by the U.S.A. Linthong and Sa are among 63,000 children studying in 916 primary schools across Laos that are supported by WFP, an organization that works with the government to prevent hunger and reduce malnutrition, believing that the development of a strong body and mind must be fueled with enough healthy food. In Luang Prabang province, 41% of children under the age of ﬁve are not growing adequately and reaching the height they should at their age, which also results in impaired learning capacities and a reduced life potential. Ms. Manivanh, a permanent community cook at Thaenkhaen primary school, shares her experiences with lentils – a food not known in Laos. “It took me a little while to get used to the smell and taste of lentils, and to learn how to make tasty meals with them,” she says. “The children like them now, especially when they are added to stir fries or soup.” Teacher Ook from Lavath Neua school in Saravan Province shows the school lentil supplies, provided by the U.S. Departement of Agriculture

Lentils are an excellent replacement for meat, which is hard to ﬁnd in remote, poor villages in

Lentils contain high amounts of protein, vitamins and minerals, but so do a variety of beans that can be grown locally. Leafy greans, herbs and beans grown in WFPsupported school gardens find their way into the school lunches, while children learn about good nutrition and how to grow their own healthy food. The benefits of the school meals programme are reflected in stronger health and better concentration in class. School meals also motivate children to go to school and stay in school for longer – up to one year longer than those who do not receive school lunches. For Linthong and Sa, the benefits are as tasty as a mouthful of fried rice with lentils – a great start to a bright future.

Students learn about healthy nutrition with the help of school gardens

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ສຸຂະພາບດີ ແນວພັນນ້ອຍໆ ສໍາລັບຮ່າງກາຍນ້ອຍໆ ທີ່ ແຂງແຮງ

ລິນທອງ ພະຍາຍາມຢືດແນມ ຜ່ າ ນ ບ່ າ ໄ ລ່ ໝູ່ ຮ່ ວ ມ ຫ້ ອ ງ ຂອງລາວເພື່ ອຈະເບິ່ ງວ່ າ ອາຫານທ່ຽງມື້ນ້ແ ີ ມ່ນຫຍັງ? “ໝາກຖົ່ ວເລນທິ ລ ” ລາວ ຫຼຽວໄປຍີ້ມໃຫ້ ສາ ໝູຂອງ ່ ລາວ, ຜູ້ ທີ່ກໍາລັງຈະຈັບເອົາ ຖາດອາຫານຢ່າງກະຕືລືລົ້ນ. ພວກໝູ່ ໆ ນັ່ ງລົ ງທີ່ ໂຕະ ອາຫານ ແລະ ເລີ່ມຕັກ ເຂົ້າ ຜັ ດທີ່ຢ່ ູໃນຖາດອາຫານ ທີ່ມີ ຫົ ວກາຣົດ, ໝາກອຶ ແລະ ໝາກຖົ່ວເລນທິລ, ແລະ ນໍາ້ ແກງທີ່ເຮັດຈາກປາ, ຜັ ກບົ້ງ, ສະໝຸນໄພ ແລະ ເຄື່ອງເທດ. ພວກເດັກນ້ອຍຊາຍທີ່ ອາໄສ ຢູ່ໃນໝູບ ່ ້ານ ແຕນແຄນ ທີ່ຢ່ ູ ຫ່າງໄກສອກຫຼີກ ຕາມແຄມ ຝັ່ ງແມນໍ ອພຽງ ່ າ້ ອູ ໃນ ແຂວງຫຼວງພະບາງ, ທີ່ສາມາດໄປເຖິງໄດດ ້ ວຍເຮື ້ ຢ່າງດຽວ ແລະ ໃຊ້ເວລາອີກຫຼາຍຊົ່ ວໂມງໃນການຂັບລົດໄປຕາມທາງທີ່ ເປັ ນຂຸມ. ນັກຮຽນໂຮງຮຽນຊັ້ນປະຖົມ ແຕນແຄນ ແມ່ນໄດ້ຮັບອາຫານທ່ຽງ ທີ່ດີຕໍ່ສຸຂະພາບທຸກໆມື້ຜ່ານ ອົງການອາຫານໂລກ ຂອງສະຫະປະຊາຊາດ ປະຈໍາປະເທດລາວ. ອາຫານແມນໄດ ຖື ່ ້ ກປຸງແຕງ່ ລວມມີ. ເຂົ້າ, ໝາກຖົ່ວ ເລນທິລ, ປາ ແລະ ນໍາ້ ມັນສໍາລັບປຸງແຕງອາຫານ ຈາກໂຄງການ ອາຫານ ່ ໃນໂຮງຮຽນ, ທີ່ໄດ້ຮັບການຊ່ວຍເຫຼືອ ຈາກ ປະເທດອາເມລິກາ. ລາບເລນທິ ລ, ອາຫານສູດໃໝ່ລ້າສຸດ, ທີ່ ທກ ຸ ໆ ຄົນມັກ

ລິນທອງ ແລະ ສາ ແມນ ່ ໜຶງ່ ໃນຈໍານວນ ນັກຮຽນ 63,000 ຄົນ ທີ່ກໍາ ລັງຮຽນຢູ່ໃນໂຮງຮຽນປະຖົມ 916 ແຫ່ງ ໃນທົ່ວປະເທດລາວທີ່ໄດຮັ ້ ບການ ສະໜັບສະໜູນຈາກ ອົງການອາຫານໂລກ, ເຊິ່ງເປັ ນອົງການຈັດຕັ້ງທີ່ເຮັດ ວຽກຮ່ວມ ກັບ ລັດຖະບານເພື່ ອປ້ອງກັນຄວາມອຶດຫິ ວ ແລະ ຫຼຸດຜ່ອນ ການຂາດສານອາຫານ, ເຊື່ອວາການພັ ດທະນາ ຂອງຮ່າງກາຍ ແລະ ມັນ ່ ສະໜອງທີ່ ແ ຂງແຮງຈະຕ້ ອງໄດ້ ຮັ ບ ການຫຼໍ່ ລ້ ຽງດ້ ວຍອາຫານໂພຊະນາ ການທີ່ດີຢ່າງພຽງພໍ . ໃນແຂວງຫຼວງພະບາງ, 41% ຂອງເດັກນອຍທີ ່ ມີ ້ ອາຍຸຕໍ່າກວາ່ ຫ້າປີ ລົງມາແມ່ນ ບໍ່ ເຕີບໃຫຍ່ດີເທົ່ າທີ່ ຄວນ ແລະ ລະດັບຄວາມສູງທີ່ພວກເຂົາຄວນ ມີໃນອາຍຸນ້,ີ ເຊິ່ງມັນມີຜົນເຮັດ ໃຫ້ ຄວາມສາມາດໃນການຮຽນ ຫຼຸດລົງ ແລະ ເຮັດໃຫ້ສັກກະຍະ ພາບໃນການດໍາລົງຊີວດ ິ ຫຼຸດລົງ. ນາງ ມະນີວນ ັ , ແມ່ຄົວປະຈໍາຊຸ ມ ຊົນ ຂອງໂຮງຮຽນປະຖົມ ແຕນ ແຄນ, ໄດ້ ແບ່ ງປັ ນປະສົ ບການ ກຽວກັ ບໝາກຖົ່ວເລນທິລ - ເປັ ນ ່ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ທີ່ ບໍ່ ເ ປັ ນ ທີ່ ຮູ້ ຈັ ກ ໃ ນ ປະເທດລາວ. “ຂ້ອຍໃຊ້ເວລາໄລ ຍະໜຶ່ງ ເພື່ ອເຮັ ດ ໃຫ້ ຄຸ້ນເຄີ ຍ ກັ ບ ກິ່ນ ແລະ ລົດຊາດ ຂອງໝາກ ຖົ່ວເລນທິລ, ແລະ ຮຽນຮູ້ ທີ່ຈະ

ອາຫານທ່ຽງໃນໂຮງຮຽນມີລົດຊາດແຊບ, ແລະ ພວກມັນຊ່ວຍໃຫ້ເດັກນອຍ ້ ຢູ່ໃນໂຮງຮຽນດົນ ກວາເກົ ້ມແຂງໃຫ້ແກເດັ ່ ່າ, ເຊຶ່ງມັນມີຄວາມສໍາຄັນເປັ ນພິ ເສດ ສໍາລັບການສາງຄວາມເຂັ ້ ່ ກຍິງ.

ປຸງແຕ່ງໃຫ້ມັນເປັ ນອາຫານທີ່ແຊບ,” ລາວເວົາ້ ວາ. ່ “ຕອນນີ້ພວກເດັກນອຍ ້ ມັກໝາກຖົ່ວເລນທິລແລວ, ່ ພວກມັນຖືກນໍາເຂົ້າ ້ ໂດຍສະເພາະແມນຕອນທີ ່ ໄປປຸງແຕງໃສ ່ ່ ຂົ້ວ ຫຼື ແກງ.” ໝາກຖົ່ວເລນທິລເປັ ນສິ່ງທົດແທນສໍາລັບຊີ້ນໄດ້ເປັ ນຢ່າງດີຫຼາຍ, ເຊິ່ງຊີ້ນ ເປັ ນສິ່ງທີ່ຫາຍາກຢູ່ໃນເຂດຫ່າງໄກສອກຫຼີກ, ໝູບ ຸ ຍາກ ຢູ່ໃນ ່ ້ານທີ່ທກ ປະເທດລາວ. “ພວກເຮົາເຄີຍລອງເຮັດ ນົມສົ້ມ ແລະ ເຮັດນົມ, ແລະ ເດັ ກນ້ ອຍ ກະມັ ກລາບໝາກຖົ່ ວເລນທິ ລ ທີ່ ພວກເຮົ າກໍ າລັ ງກຽມທີ່ ຈະ ເຮັດ,”. ສີວງົ ໄຊ ພະນັກງານ ຜູ້ ອໍານວຍຄວາມສະດວກຊຸ ມຊົນ ຂັ້ນເມືອງ ຂອງ ອົງການອາຫານໂລກ ປະຈໍາເມືອງ ຮຸນ, ແຂວງອຸດົມໄຊ ເວົາ້ ວາ່ “ໃນເວລາ ດຽວກັ ນ, ພວກເຮົ າກໍ່ ໄດ້ ສອນພວກເຂົ າເຈົ້ າໃຫ້ ຮູ້ ຈັ ກປູ ກອາຫານທີ່ ມີ ໂພ ຊະນາການທີ່ມີຢ່ ູໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ, ເຊິ່ງໃນອີກບໍ່ດົນ, ພວກເຂົາກໍ່ຈະບໍ່ຈາໍ ເປັ ນ ຕອງການ ການຊ່ວຍເຫຼືອນໍາພວກເຮົາອີກຕໍ່ໄປ.” ້ ໝາກຖົ່ວເລນທິລ ປະກອບດ້ວຍທາດໂປຼຕີນ, ວີຕາມິນ ແລະ ແຮ່ທາດ ໃນ ປະລິມານທີ່ສູງ, ເຊັ່ນດຽວກັບພື ດຕະກູນຖົ່ວຕ່າງໆທີ່ມີຢ່ ູໃນທ້ອງຖິ່ນ. ຜັ ກ ໃບຂຽວ, ສະໝຸນໄພ ແລະ ພື ດຕະກູນຖົ່ວທີ່ປູກຢູ່ໃນສວນຄົວຂອງໂຮງຮຽນ ທີ່ອົງການອາຫານໂລກສະໜັບສະໜູນ ເພື່ ອໃຫ້ເຂົ້າໄປເປັ ນສວນປະກອບ ່ ໃນອາຫານທ່ຽງຂອງໂຮງຮຽນ, ໃນຂະນະທີ່ ພວກເດັກນອຍກໍ ່ໄດ້ຮຽນຮູ້ ້ ກ່ຽວກັບ ໂພຊະນາການທີ່ດີ ແລະ ຮູ້ຈັກທີ່ຈະປູກອາຫານເພື່ ອສຸຂະພາບ ຂອງພວກເຂົາເຈົາ້ ເອງ. ຜົ ນປະໂຫຍດຂອງໂຄງການອາຫານໃນໂຮງຮຽນ ແມນໄດ ສະແດງໃຫ ່ ້ ້ ເຫັ ນເຖິງສຸຂະພາບທີ່ແຂງແຮງ ແລະ ມີຄວາມຕັ້ງໃຈ ຮຽນໃນຫ້ອງຮຽນໄດ້ດີຂ້ ືນ. ໂຄງການອາຫານໃນໂຮງຮຽນຍັງຊ່ວຍກະຕຸ້ນ ໃຫ້ນັກຮຽນມາໂຮງຮຽນ ແລະ ຮຽນຢູ່ໃນໂຮງຮຽນດົນກວາເກົ ່ ່າ - ຫຼາຍ ກວາໜຶ ່ ງ່ ປີຖ້າທຽບໃສຜູ ່ ້ ທີ່ບໍ່ໄດຮັ ້ ບອາຫານທ່ຽງໃນໂຮງຮຽນ. ສໍາລັບ ລິນ ທອງ ແລະ ສາ, ເຂົ້າຜັ ດ ກັບ ໝາກຖົ່ວເລນທິລແຊບໆທີ່ເຕັມປາກ ປະໂຫຍດທີ່ຈະໄດ້ຮັບແມ່ນ - ຈຸດເລີ້ມຕົ້ນທີ່ດີ ສໍາລັບອະນາຄົດທີ່ສົດໃສ.

ຊອກຫາຂໍ້ມູນ ເພີ ມເຕີ່ມ ກ່ຽວກັບ ວຽກຂອງພວກເຮົາໃນ ເຟສບຸກ: ແມຄົ ັ ກໍາລັງລາງ ່ ວປະຈໍາຊຸ ມຊົນມະນີວນ ້ ແລະ ແຊ່ ໝາກຖົ່ວເລນທິລກ່ອນທີ່ຈະນໍາໄປປຸງແຕ່ງ ອາຫານ

@WFPLAOPDR

ຊ່ວຍຊີວິດ ປ່ ຽນຊີວິດ ໃຫ້ດີຂ້ ນ ຶ

THE

HIDDEN OF THE

SIDE

MEKONG

Across the river lies a new adventure TEXT BY ANITA PRESTON PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANITA PRESTON / EVENSONG FILM

A view of Luang Prabang from Chomphet

ooking for the perfect day out? Across from Luang Prabang lies the town of Xieng Maen and the district of Chomphet. Many visitors overlook this area but its charms and history are impressive and you are likely to have the place to yourself. To get to Chomphet, take the public ferry behind the former royal palace. The trip takes about 5 minutes depending on how many vehicles are on board. On the opposite bank, vendors are busy on the roadside above the landing with large steaming pots of boiled eggs and clouds of wafting smoke from charcoal grills sizzle with salted grilled fish and sour pork sausages. If you go early enough you may see lines of monks at morning alms. The first left turn above the pier leads you south to Ban Chan Neua, the pottery village. This village has been turning out pots for 400 years. Huge lumps of sticky red clay are processed and worked using traditional techniques. It is mesmerizing to watch hands coax the clay on a potter’s wheel into bowls, cups, and lamps, and items made here can be found all over the province. It’s a great place to find a unique souvenir! Backtracking toward the pier, encounter a royal cemetery. Hardly any information is available about this site and the trail to it is overgrown with vines and rotting leaves. It leads to a large white stone monument with a sign in French “Here lies Queen Khamouane”. Banana leaf and marigold offerings placed on the tomb indicate that it is still venerated. Below, scattered on the hillside, are some graves. Many of the graves are quite small, they are believed to be of young princes and princesses who drowned in a disastrous boating accident on the Mekong in 1931. Return to Xieng Maen to visit this charming village that flanks both sides of a path north of the boat landing. The temples lining this trail have important links to the history of Luang Prabang. The first temple reached is Wat Xieng Maen established in 1592 during the reign of King Xaysetthathirath. It was here that the Prabang statue, for which the city is named, was housed for seven days on its way back from Thailand. Wat Chomphet is next and reached by a staircase of 123 steps. The views from the top are outstanding as you can see the whole of the misty green peninsula backed by blue hills. Surprised to hear the faint sounds of dance music at this isolated spot, a monk appeared with a key to let me have a look inside. I wondered how many monks resided at Wat Chomphet. “Just me” he answered. It’s q uite austere inside with white plastered walls and a simple altar, but the historical significance of this temple is manifested outside. Two red brick stupas lean precariously containing the relics of the wives of a former king. AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

EXPLORE

The trail then brings you to the rustic Wat Long Khoun complex. As part of the coronation ceremony, kings would spend three days meditating here. The temple has some impressive murals. On each side of the door are two Chinese-style ﬁgures. Legend says that Chinese troops who rested at the temple in 1890 could not sleep, they were seeing ghosts in their dreams, so two ﬁerce-looking guardians were painted on the walls to scare away the ghosts. There is also a walking meditation hall on the leafy grounds, only one of three in the area. On holy days, monks would pace the long corridor in meditation. Farther upstream, Wat Had Siew is an older temple built in the 18th century and decorated with faded frescoes. Behind the temple stands two giants marking the beginning of a path climbing up the hill to a statue garden of Buddhist imagery scattered amongst the forest. Following a narrow rutted red clay track brings you to Wat Nong Sa Keo. Established in 1657 the temple is built on a pond. Viceroy Phetsarath meditated here after his return from France in 1920 before being abandoned. The temple is built on stilts to save the library’s manuscripts from insects, the only one of this type in the vicinity of Luang Prabang. There are currently renovations being carried out to bring it back to life. Many more sites and places of interest are in the area to discover for the adventurous that can easily occupy a whole day. Grab your hat, sunscreen, water, and the excellent Hobo map, downloadable online and explore the other side of life in Luang Prabang.

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has daily ﬂights to Luang Prabang from Vientiane. The public ferry to Chomphet is located at the main pier behind the Luang Prabang National Museum. Check out the excellent Hobomaps to plan your trip in the area at hobomaps.com 4

5 1. Wat Long Khoun 2. The Chinese ﬁgure guarding the door at Wat Long Khoun 3. The stupa of a former queen of Laos 4. Wat Nong Sa Keo 5. A line of novices in Xieng Maen

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4 AUGUST — OCTOBER 2021

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TIMETABLE

Timetable 2021 DOMESTIC ROUTES/ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

DOMESTIC ROUTES/ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ VIENTIANE

> LUANGPRABANG

A/C

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

DAY

DEP.

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

12:30 -

13:10

QV101

A320

Daily

13:50 -

F Su

16:00 -

16:40

QV103

A320

F Su

M T W Th S

16:00 -

16:50

QV103

AT7

M T W Th S

ຫຼວງນ�ຳທາ

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

LUANGPRABANG >

Daily

> LUANGNAMTHA

ARR.

14:30

QV102

A320

17:20 -

18:00

QV104

A320

17:20 -

18:10

QV104

AT7

ຫຼວງນ�ຳທາ

LUANGNAMTHA >

Daily

11:00 -

11:55

QV603

AT7

Daily

12:25 -

13:20

QV604

AT7

Daily

14:00 -

14:55

QV601

AT7

Daily

15:25 -