Champa Meuanglao: July-August 2023

THE EXQUISITE CHARM OF WAT SISAKET

A temple of 10,000 Buddhas and counting

SHANGRI-LA

Taste the city’s rich culinary heritage

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Dear Passengers,

Thank you for choosing Lao Airlines and I would like to welcome you to the Lao PDR.

At Lao Airlines, we are continuously working to expand our flight network, which now extends to Chengdu and Changsha, and soon we will fly to Changzhou, Hangzhou, and Haikou in China. During this process we will continue to improve our services, and boost customer satisfaction.

On behalf of the board of management and the employees of Lao Airlines, I would like to thank you for your faith in our international standard of service.

Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a flight with us again soon.

Safe travels.

With highest respects,

Khamla Phommavanh President & CEO of Lao Airlines

Hello Readers,

Welcome to the July-August issue of Champa Meuanglao.

Luang Prabang is famous for its unique cuisine. A walk through the Morning Market offers a full palette (and stomach) of the tasty fare offered here.

In Vientiane, Wat Sisaket is one of the most historic temples in the city. Learn about it through the eyes of a Lao visitor.

Yunnan is a vast province in China full of interesting places to explore. Visit the fabled area called Shangri-la and see entirely unique cultures, landscapes, and ways of life.

Sihanoukville is an up-and-coming beach destination in Cambodia. Once a sleepy backpacker town, it has developed into a bustling seaside city.

The food of central Vietnam is as delicious as the region is beautiful. Go on a culinary journey through this area and see why it should be on your bucket list.

Happy Reading!

The Champa Meuanglao team

In light of the current Covid-19 situation throughout the world, please be aware that certain activities, festivals, sites, businesses, and events mentioned in this magazine may not be open and operating as planned. Do exercise good judgment, maintain safety precautions, and follow the directions of authorities at all times.

ADVISORY BOARD

Khamla Phommavanh

Managing Director

Saleum Tayarath

Deputy Managing Director of Commercial and Marketing, ICT

Sitthideth Douangsiththy

Deputy Managing Director of Ground Handling and Cargo

Phaythoun Kounsouvanh

Deputy Managing Director of Finance and Flight Training

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED

Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com

Follow the official Facebook Page at www.facebook.com/laoairlines to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos.

DISCLAIMER

PUBLISHING

Editor In Chief Editors

Contributing Editors

Creative Director

Contributing Writers

Head Photographer

Jason Rolan

Cameron Darke

Aditta Kittikhoun

Endy Khamsing

Thanouphet Maniseng

Claire Boobbyer

Evan Dixon

Phoonsab Thevongsa

ADVERTISING

sales@rdkgroup.la

mark.gandeza@rdkgroup.la

(856-20) 56581416

RDK GROUP

134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.

All rights reserved. Copyright © 2022 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com

COVER IMAGE

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in Yunnan, China

Photo: Phoonsab Thevongsa

LASTING

CERTIFICATION LAOS

A New Standard for Sustainable Tourism

TEXT &

PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE SUSTOUR LAOS PROJECT

In an era where travel and tourism are rapidly evolving, sustainability is no longer an option - it's a necessity. The Lasting Laos certification, with its comprehensive and customized standards, is setting a new standard for sustainable tourism in Laos. The Lasting Laos certification is administered locally by the Lao National Chamber of Commerce and Industry. The certifi cation has been developed by the SUSTOUR Laos project which is funded by the European Union.

above: Kuang Si Falls in Luang Prabang

1. A Lao meal using sustainable ingredients

The Standard at Its Core

The Lasting Laos Certification utilizes the principles and methodology of Travelife, specially adapted for micro, small, and medium-sized enterprises (MSMEs) across four key tourism sectors in Laos: transportation, food & beverage, handicraft & souvenir, and cultural excursions.

The certification prioritizes waste management as a cross-cutting issue, recognizing its crucial role in achieving sustainable operations in all sectors.

1. Transportation Services

The Lasting Laos certification standards emphasize sustainability at the heart of transportation services. The focus is on three key areas: vehicle efficiency, emissions reduction, and eco-friendly driving. Providers are encouraged to use vehicles that consume less fuel and produce fewer greenhouse gases. Regular maintenance checks can also ensure the vehicles are running optimally, thus reducing their environmental footprint.

The training of staff in eco-friendly driving techniques is equally crucial. Eco-friendly driving involves strategies such as smooth acceleration and deceleration, maintaining steady speeds, and turning off the engine during idle times. Such practices can significantly reduce fuel consumption and decrease CO2 emissions. The certification standards support and encourage transport services to invest in such training for their drivers, thereby creating a more eco-conscious workforce.

2. Food & Beverage Providers

Food & beverage providers have a unique role to play in sustainable tourism. The Lasting Laos certification prioritizes local sourcing, thereby supporting local farmers and reducing the carbon footprint associated with food transportation. Moreover, providers are urged to adopt practices to reduce food waste. This includes better inventory management, reducing food waste, and offering portion choices to customers.

Promoting healthier options is another key aspect of the certification. Providers are encouraged to offer dishes that are not only nutritious but also represent the local culinary culture, thereby enhancing the gastronomic experience of visitors while also promoting local traditions.

3. Handicraft & Souvenir Businesses

For businesses in the handicraft & souvenir sector, sustainability means using materials that are environmentally friendly and locally sourced. It also means promoting the traditional craftsmanship of Laos which helps to preserve cultural heritage and provides economic opportunities for local artisans.

Fair trade practices, equitable pricing and wages, and eco-friendly packaging are other key aspects of the Lasting Laos standards.

4. Cultural Excursions

Cultural excursions are essential in representing the cultural and historical richness of Laos to visitors. The Lasting Laos certification standards ensure these excursions are conducted responsibly. Respect for local customs and traditions is paramount, as is the provision of authentic cultural experiences. This serves to create a more enriching experience for tourists while promoting understanding and respect for the local culture.

Local community involvement is another important aspect of the standards. Including locals in the operation of these excursions fosters economic growth in the community and provides an authentic experience for visitors. Encouraging responsible behavior among tourists, such as respectful photography and responsible litter disposal, helps to preserve the cultural heritage and environment for generations to come.

The Role of SUSTOUR Laos Project and LNCCI

Lasting Laos certification isn't a standalone initiative. It's a culmination of concerted efforts by many organizations striving towards sustainable tourism. One such pivotal initiative is the SUSTOUR Laos Project. This project aims to promote sustainable tourism, green job creation, and the conservation of natural and cultural heritage in Laos.

A key part of the SUSTOUR Laos Project's success has been its emphasis on collaboration, providing a platform for the government, businesses, and communities to work together towards shared sustainability goals. Through training, resources, and continued support, the project has helped many businesses align their operations with sustainable practices, thereby contributing to a greener, more responsible tourism industry.

The Lao National Chamber of Commerce and Industry (LNCCI) plays a signifi cant role in this endeavor. As the representative of the business community, LNCCI not only advocates for sustainable practices but also oversees the certification process, ensuring that businesses meet the rigorous standards set by the Lasting Laos certification. By doing so, LNCCI is actively working to embed sustainability within the tourism sector, ensuring it remains a core pillar of business operations in Laos.

Conclusions

The Lasting Laos certification isn't just a checklist, nor is it an expensive badge to add to a business accomplishments. It's a free-toobtain commitment that any business can take up. Lasting Laos is a commitment to uphold the values that are so integral to the charm and allure of Laos – it is a commitment to our environment, our people, and our unique heritage. By embracing these standards, we're not just transforming the way we do business, we're shaping the future of sustainable tourism in Laos.

If you're a business in the tourism sector in Laos, we invite you to take this pivotal step towards sustainability. Apply for the Lasting Laos certification through our Facebook page today and join us on this journey toward a more sustainable future. Your customers, your community, and our planet will thank you. Your commitment today is an investment in the future of Laos – an investment that promises to yield benefits for all. Together, we can create a lasting legacy for Laos, one that future generations will look back upon with pride and gratitude.

The time for sustainable tourism is now, and the Lasting Laos certification is your gateway. Don’t wait, visit our Facebook page and apply today!

above: Supporting local handicrafts ensures these traditions are passed to future generations

MORE INFO

SUSTOUR Laos Project

Office (LNCCI building)

Kaysone Phomvihane Ave, Phonphanao Village, Saysetha District, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR P.O. Box: 4596

facebook.com/ lastinglao

FINDING SHANGRI-LA

TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

The view of Shangri-La city from Guishan Park

The name "Shangri-La" has evoked a mythical remote mountainous place of peace, happiness, and eternal youth, ever since was fi rst used in the 1933 novel "Lost Horizon" by James Hilton. The name has since become synonymous with paradise or utopia.

While mythical at the time, you can now visit this fabled city in Yunnan, China, as in 2001, the city of Zhongdian was renamed Shangri-La in an effort to promote tourism. Both are places of great beauty and natural wonder located in remote mountain regions, are fairly isolated from the rest of the world, and are inhabited by people who live in peace and harmony with nature.

It’s best to discover Shangri-La on an overland journey from Lijiang to fully experience this stunning area of green meadows, sparkling streams, snow-capped mountains, and unique culture.

above: The entrance to one of the Tibetan-style monasteries right: In keeping with Buddhist tenets of change, a Tibetan monk embraces the modern age

GETTING THERE

Lao Airlines operates daily flights to Kunming. From there you can transit to Lijiang by air or rail, and then onward to Shangri-La.

Fine gold ornamentation glistens in the sunlight

Ganden Sumtsenling Monastery, on the north side of the city, is the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan

The awe-inspiring Tiger Leaping Gorge

Snowy peaks meet blue skies at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

RIVERFRONT APARTMENTS

Luxury living with Mekong views

TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

Nestled along the banks of the Mekong River, the Riverfront Apartments offer a tranquil retreat in the bustling city of Vientiane. The luxurious apartments provide stunning views of the river and the city skyline, making it the perfect choice for a comfortable and relaxing stay for a weekend or even longer period.

Each of the 39 apartments is elegantly designed with modern amenities to ensure a comfortable and convenient stay. The apartments range in size from one to three bedrooms and feature spacious living areas, fully equipped kitchens, and private balconies that offer breathtaking views of the Mekong River. The bedrooms are comfortable and cozy, featuring plush mattresses and high-quality bedding to ensure a peaceful sleep.

The Riverfront Apartments are perfect for those seeking a bit of relaxation. The complex features a beautiful rooftop pool, a fitness center, a spa, a cinema, and a golf simulator ‐ a first in Vientiane.

One of the main attractions of the Riverfront Apartments is the Sala Sane restaurant, which features all day dining and serves delicious Thai and international cuisine prepared with fresh and authentic ingredients. It is the perfect place to have a special meal while enjoying breathtaking views of the Mekong.

Overall, the Riverfront Apartments offer a luxurious and comfortable stay in a prime location. Whether you are visiting for business or pleasure, this is the perfect choice for those seeking a bit of luxury and relaxation in the heart of the city.

MORE INFO

For bookings and more information, visit riverfrontapartmentvte.com

views

1. The bedrooms here have a clean modern look

2. Riverfront Apartments' bathrooms come with all of the amenities

3. The dining rooms are perfect for a quiet dinner or entertaining guests

4. Sala Sane restaurant serves tasty Thai, Lao, and Western cuisine

left: The facade faces the Mekong offering extraordinary

河滨公寓

湄公河景奢华公寓

翻译及编辑 尹航

摄影 PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

河滨公寓坐落在湄公河岸，在繁华的万象首都 提供了非常宁静的休闲居所。在河滨奢华公 寓可以享受河天一色的壮丽景色，是周末休 闲或长期居住的完美选择。

公寓设有39间客房，每一间都设计优雅，配备现代化 设施，确保您住得舒适方便。公寓有很多房型：单间到三室 不等，该公寓的特色是宽敞的客厅、设备齐全的厨房和湄 公河景的私人阳台。 卧室非常温馨，配有高品质床垫和床 上用品，您一定可以睡得舒适。

河滨公寓非常适合寻求轻松环境的客人。美丽的屋顶 游泳池、健身中心、水疗中心、电影院和高尔夫模拟场一应 俱全⸺这样的 配置在万象尚属首次。

河滨公寓的另一特色是 公寓内的Sala Sane 餐厅，该 餐厅全天营业，精选当地食材，主打泰国和国际风味。这里 是一边享用美食，一边欣赏湄公河景的绝佳场所。

总之，河滨公寓是万象黄金地段奢华舒适的绝佳选 择。无论您是商务旅行还是休闲旅游，对于那些在市中心 寻求一点奢华和放松的人来说，这都是完美的选择。

上面: 每间公寓都可拎包入住

1. 装修风格是现代优雅风

2. 可欣赏无敌湄公河景

如何到达 河滨公寓位于Phanman村，距 万象市中心仅一小段车程

更多信息 预定及更多信息，请访问 riverfrontapartmentvte.com

A Splash of Color

New Murals Preserve the Past, Welcome the Future

TEXT BY BRIDGET DOOLEY

al tourists and local pedestrians that this road welcomes them. We hope it becomes a tourist destination, like That Dam itself. Come and take a picture, it’s okay.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB

THEVONGSA

/ THE US EMBASSY

above: A colorful new mural showing a wealth of cultural traditions in Laos

On one of the small streets leading to the historic That Dam in the center of Vientiane, pylons, tall empty white walls, and the security presence of the American Center, have all generally deterred foot traffic.

Now, those once-white walls are home to a series of six bright, colorful artworks, each standing more than two meters tall.

“People don’t realize they can even come down this road,” says Peter Haymond, the U.S. Ambassador to Laos. “We hope that these murals will signal to both internation-

The murals celebrate 20 years of the Ambassador’s Fund for Cultural Preservation (AFCP) in Laos, a project aimed at maintaining Laos’ rich and varied cultural heritage. In swirling colors and a range of artistic styles, the murals depict the variety of Lao culture (both tangible and intangible) from across the nation’s provinces. AFCP projects - such as the preservation of Xieng Khouang’s Plain of Jars, Luang Prabang’s Wat Visoun (the so-called “watermelon stupa”), and the conservation of Buddhist archives - take center stage. A keen eye will also notice, tucked inside these murals, visual references to Vang Vieng’s rocket festival, Luang Prabang’s unique style of stencil art, and several lucky white elephants.

1. Visitors gaze at a mural depicting Lao temples

2. Imagery from temple paintings found in Wat Taleo in Savannakhet

3. A mural celebrating the Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation

4. Ambassador and Mrs. Haymond attend the opening gala

One of the goals of the murals, Ambassador Haymond says, is to externalize and document the interiors of ancient Lao places, particularly its temples, for easier access and greater appreciation. One mural even contains a reproduction of temple art showing foreigners arriving in Laos which, like the interlaced American and Lao flags, is a nod to the cross-cultural teamwork behind the AFCP.

The murals were created by a number of different artists from across Laos, including both traditional artists trained at the National Institute of Fine Arts and some contemporary artists. While the AFCP projects are aimed at preserving the cultural heritage of Laos’ past, these murals also incorporate the future in their style, content, and creation.

For graffiti artist Aleqs, whose mural contains both traditional elements and spray-painted graffi ti-like tags, empty spaces like white security walls can feel like a missed opportunity. He says he hopes that the murals will convince locals to reconsider their stance on public art and that they will lead to a boom in public Lao art in general.

For some of the muralists, the opportunity to make such large pieces is a first, and a learning experience. “I’m used to working small,” says Karnkai, whose mural celebrates the many provinces of Laos.

The centerpiece of the display is a collaborative mural, spelling out L.A.O.S. as an acronym: “Lively, Amazing, Original, Simple.” This acronym, too, appreciates the past while looking forward.

While the small road is certainly more colorful than it once was, there are still several empty panels adjoining the American Center that remain empty and white. “This is a work in progress. We’d like to see these walls filled, too,” Ambassador Haymond says.

“WE HOPE THAT THESE MURALS WILL SIGNAL TO BOTH INTERNATIONAL TOURISTS AND LOCAL PEDESTRIANS THAT THIS ROAD WELCOMES THEM.”

A culinary journey through Central Vietnam

TEXT BY EVAN DIXON

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MANYPHONE VONGPHACHAN / QUANG NAM TOURISM

Savory seafood, aromatic herbs, exotic spices, piquant sauces, and crisp, colorful vegetables - Vietnamese cuisine has it all. The food of central Vietnam is particularly renowned for its prominent use of fresh herbs and spices grown in the inland mountains, as well as the bounteous fish and crustaceans of the long coastline and many rivers. Now with the re-establishment of Lao Airlines’ direct flight from Vientiane to Da Nang, the flavors of central Vietnam are barely an hour away! Let’s take a look at some of the best local dishes that Da Nang and Hoi An have to offer, and where to enjoy them!

Just a quick seaside drive from Da Nang, the ancient town of Hoi An boasts its own local flair for cuisine. Orivy Restaurant specializes in local delicacies and is located just a block from the touristic bustle of the central ‘old town’ area, across the street from a scenic lagoon.

To start, bánh vạc Hội An (The white rose dumpling) is a must-try dish. This dumpling is as elegant as it is delicious, with a delicate and nearly translucent tapioca and rice flour skin enclosing a harmonious combination of minced pork, shrimp, and wood ear mushrooms, topped with powerfully savory roasted shallots and fresh green onions, and balanced by a gently sweet and sour dipping sauce. The simplicity and beauty of this dish is rivaled only by its amazing taste and satisfying texture.

For a more hearty main dish, cao lầu noodles are among the most authentic of Hoi An’s local dishes. These thick noodles are made from a combination of rice and wheat flour, which gives them a uniquely satisfying chewy texture. The rich and unctuous pork bone broth, flavored with star anise, is a perfect complement to the sliced char siu pork, parboiled bok choy, and crispy fried pork rinds atop the noodles. This symphony

above: Hoi An

from above

1. Hoi An's signature

white roses

of flavors and textures is an essential part of experiencing the authentic flavors of central Vietnam.

Orivy Hoi An Local Food Restaurant is located at 546 Cửa Đại, Cẩm Châu, Hội An, and opens daily from 11:00 am until 9:30 pm.

Our search for central Vietnam’s best bánh xèo takes us first to Quán Bà Ngọc Huế (or, “Ms. Ngoc’s Hue-style Restaurant”), a tidy little family operation located a bit north of downtown. Bánh xèo is a kind of Vietnamese omelet that is sure to tantalize your taste buds. This savory pancake is made with eggs, rice flour, coconut milk, and turmeric, which gives it a rich, golden hue. Like all bánh xèo, Ms. Ngoc’s are filled with a variety of ingredients such as pork, shrimp, bean sprouts, and herbs—however, they are roasted extra crispy such that each bite is bursting with textural delight. The typical accompaniments of fresh, leafy vegetables, and a tangy and sweet dipping sauce, create the perfect balance of fl avors. Whether you're a connoisseur of Vietnamese cuisine or looking to try something new, Ms. Ngoc’s bánh xèo is sure to delight your senses and leave you craving more.

Another house specialty is bò nướng lá lốt (or just bò lá lốt), a popular southern and central Vietnamese dish, which is a kind of cuốn, or rice-paper spring roll. This exotic dish features tender and juicy beef wrapped in fragrant betel leaves, which are known for

their unique and complex flavor. The beef is marinated in a blend of spices, including lemongrass, Chinese five-spice, garlic, and chili, giving it a bold and savory taste. The betel leaves, which have a peppery and fragrant herbal quality, are then carefully wrapped around the beef, creating a beautiful and aromatic cigar-sized package that is then grilled to perfection. Served with a side of fresh herbs, lettuce leaves, shredded papaya and carrot, and a peanut dipping sauce, each bite of bò lá lốt is an enchanting combination of flavors and textures. This dish is perfect for those looking to explore the more exotic and unusual flavors of Vietnamese cuisine.

Quán Bà Ngọc Huế is located at 228 Đống Đa, Thuận Phước, Hải Châu, Đà Nẵng and opens daily from 8:30 am to 10:30 pm.

While cuốn, also known as spring rolls, are not entirely specific to Danang, they are such a delicious and refreshing appetizer that central Vietnam has come to boast some local varieties. Bếp Cuốn Đà Nẵng (or “Danang Spring Roll Kitchen”) specializes in bánh tráng cuốn thịt heo, or pork and rice paper rolls. These mouth-watering appetizers are made by wrapping thinly sliced grilled pork belly, lettuce, cucumber, and a generous portion of herbs such as mint, cilantro, and sawtooth coriander in a sheet of delicate rice paper. The rolls are served with a rich and savory hoisin dipping sauce that perfectly complements the fresh and crisp ingredients. Each bite is a burst of flavors and textures, with the tender pork, crunchy vegetables, and refreshing herbs all coming together in perfect harmony. Be sure to wash it down with a glass (or several) of the house's special beverage, the thirst-quenching tangy virgin passionfruit mojito. Whether you're new to Vietnamese cuisine or a seasoned fan, bánh tráng cuốn thịt heo is a dish that is sure to leave you craving more.

mojito. Whether you're new to Vietnamese thịt

Bếp Cuốn Đà Nẵng is located at 54 Nguyễn Văn Thoại, Đà Nẵng and opens daily from 10:00 am to 09:00 pm.

left: Tasty noodles at Orivy Hoi An right: Tourists enjoy the charming UNESCO World Heritage Town of Hoi An

Lao Airlines has regular flights between Vientiane and Danang.

A fisherman hangs out fileted fish to dry in the sun

SIHANOUKVILLE

TEXT BY ADITTA KITTIKHOUN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAMBODIA MINISTRY OF TOURISM, MEKONG TOURISM COORDINATING OFFICE

Cambodia’s Rejuvenated Seaside Sanctuary

Crystal-clear waters gently lapping at soft white sands, vibrant markets brimming with local delicacies, and a lively nightlife scene that promises endless entertainment – welcome to Sihanoukville, Cambodia's gateway to paradise. Nestled along the Gulf of Thailand, this enchanting coastal gem has become the go-to destination for travelers seeking a serene escape with a touch of adventure, and recently, as a promising host for meetings and corporate events.

left: Song Saa Private Island is a luxury resort near Sihanoukville

1. Tourism officials gather at the Mekong Tourism Forum

2. Visitors learn about sustainable products at the exhibition

3. Delegates attend meetings at the Mekong Tourism Forum

A ROYAL TOUCH

Sihanoukville was named in honor of King Norodom Sihanouk, the late monarch who ruled Cambodia for over six decades. It is the only deep-water port city in the country and was established in 1955 to foster international trade and economic growth.

The Mekong Tourism Forum 2023 recently underscored Sihanoukville's growing importance as a regional hub. Held at the esteemed Independence Hotel, over 200 delegates from both local and international spheres convened to contemplate the theme, "Rethinking for Resilience and Digitalization". The city's successful hosting of such a crucial event attests to its potential as a meeting, incentive, conference, and exhibition (MICE) destination.

This prestigious forum was a collaborative effort between the Ministry of Tourism, Cambodia and the Mekong Tourism Coordinating Office (MTCO). Participants, drawn from public and private sectors, convened to explore the future of Greater Mekong Subregion (GMS) tourism, discuss the role of digitalization in spurring post-COVID-19 recovery, and foster sustainable tourism practices.

Across the GMS, sustainability remains at the heart of tourism initiatives. In Laos, Plan International's SUSTOUR project and the Lasting Laos certification encourage green practices, while Vietnam is boosting its sustainable coffee farming sector. Thailand, too, reinforces its dedication to eco-tourism through the rehabilitation of Maya Bay. The Asian Development Bank is supporting climate-resilient public infrastructure development and training to improve tourism management across the region. Together, these efforts emphasize a strong commitment to a sustainable future.

Sihanoukville's coastal allure is evident in its expansive golden-sand beaches, each with its unique charm. Serenity seekers will appreciate Otres Beach, while the more energetic may prefer the lively atmosphere of Ochheuteal Beach, packed with beach bars, restaurants, and water sports. No trip to Sihanoukville is complete without a visit to the nearby islands, such as Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem, where azure waters and white sands create a tropical paradise.

THE WATER FESTIVAL

The lively Water Festival in Sihanoukville is a must-experience event, celebrating Cambodian culture against the backdrop of stunning coastal scenery. Witness exhilarating boat races as locals demonstrate teamwork and strength, while the enchanting Loy Pratip ceremony illuminates the night with floating lanterns to pay homage to the water spirits. Don't miss the opportunity to create unforgettable memories and immerse yourself in the heart of Cambodia's coastal charm during this vibrant celebration.

1. Tourists enjoy a stroll on one of Sihanoukville's beaches

2. Sunsets in Cambodia are like no other

The city's natural beauty comes to life at the Ream National Park, home to mangrove forests, diverse wildlife, and the vibrant local fishing community. Witness the majestic beauty of Kbal Chhay Waterfall, just a short drive from the city center, or take a boat tour through the mangroves to truly immerse yourself in the natural wonders of the region.

As night falls, indulge your taste buds in the local cuisine at Sihanoukville's bustling markets and street food stalls. Savor freshly caught seafood grilled to perfection, and don't miss trying the famous Cambodian amok (steamed fish curry) or the classic num banh chok (a rice vermicelli soup).

Don't wait another moment to experience the wonders of Sihanoukville, where the perfect blend of natural beauty, culture, and entertainment awaits.

GETTING THERE

Lao Airlines operates flights between Vientiane and Siem Reap, from where you can begin your overland Cambodian exploration to Sihanoukville. Lao Airlines also offers a codeshare flight from Vientiane to Phnom Penh, then Sihanoukville is a short drive away.

THE EXQUISITE CHARM OF WAT SISAKET

A temple of 10,000 Buddhas and counting

TRANSLATED BY NICK PUGH PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / JASON ROLAN

Not so long ago, I had the chance to visit this sacred place of such cultural and historical significance, originating from the old Kingdom of Lane Xang. This treasure is named Wat Satasahatsaham (meaning the “Temple of over 10,000 Buddha Images”) but is more commonly known as Wat Sisaket. With each visit, this temple consistently preserves its ethereal allure and cultural and historical meaning. From the moment I step inside, it is like time pauses to allow me to feel the ambiance of the Lane Xang Kingdom in all its prosperity and glory as though we are living among the people of that era right.

The construction of Wat Sisaket commenced in 1818 under the reign of King Anouvong, who restored many revered sites, such as the That Luang stupa and the Ho Pha Keo temple, and also built Wat Sisaket, which is now of great historical importance.

On entering the temple cloister, my attention was drawn to some writing etched into a stone slab hanging on the wall to the right of the door. The stone was smooth, flawless, and brown in color and the writing had been engraved by hand, telling of the history of the temple’s construction, configuration, and inauguration. Having looked at the fine artistry of the slab, I was struck by the sim (ordination hall) situated right in the center of the cloister. From the outside, I could see the large Buddha statue inside, amid the glow of the yellow lights, which further enhanced the splendor of this

unforgettable picture. But that was not all – the majestic and sacrosanct ordination hall itself is also home to Ong Sen, the main Buddha image, and a plethora of other Buddha images in various postures in addition to various relics for use in religious ceremonies while also hosting many monastic rituals, including the mass recital of Buddhist monastic rules and ordinations. Inside the sim are murals depicting the Balasangkhaya, an old Buddhist tale of the adventures of Prince Bokkharaphat. The pictures of these murals were painted using the expertise of artists of the era and also depict the site of the old Royal Palace (where the Presidential Palace now stands), temples, buildings of significance, the life of the Buddha, and the ways of living of the people in addition to pictures of nature, which stimulated my imagination, causing me to visualize the era as if I was there in person. When I walked out to the right of the temple, however, I came back to my senses as I stumbled upon a fascinating hang hod, a long ceremonial wooden trough, crafted out of a single log of wood and carved into the head of a Naga water serpent at one end and with patterns engraved into the surface. This is used in religious ceremonies for the Lao New Year and also for the ordination of monks. Perfumed water mixed with various flowers is ritually poured into the trough where it runs over Buddha images and monks at the other end.

1. One

3. A door in the temple's library which once contained many old palm leaf manuscripts

left: The impressive ordination hall is one of the oldest in Vientiane

of the many Lane Xang-style Buddha statues

2. The cloisters house many Buddhas in small niches

Looking up inside the sim, I gaze upon 1,026 Buddha niches carved into the walls, each containing two small Buddha images. There is also a storage room to the west of the sim containing Buddha images damaged when Siam sacked Vientiane between 1826 and 1828. A total of 996 of these broken bronze Buddha images were taken from temples throughout Vientiane.

All tourist attractions in Laos – whether they are cultural, historical, or natural – possess a quintessential elegance, which is characteristic of the Lao nation. It is, therefore, the duty of everyone, to preserve, maintain, and look after them because tourism must also include responsibility towards all the sites we visit. We should work together to conserve and preserve their irreplaceable and sublime magnificence so they may be enjoyed by future generations.

GETTING THERE

Wat Sisaket is located in downtown Vientiane

above: The roof of the ordination hall and cloisters

1. A mural painting inside the temple depicting one of the previous lives of the Buddha

SAVORING LUANG PRABANG

Taste the city’s rich culinary heritage

TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANITA PRESTON / EVENSONG FILM

Now it’s time for papaya salad! my guide Mr. Oun says. Lao papaya salad is one helluva fiery dish and it’s the last meal of my market foodie tour. I’ve been dipping into foodie spots around the temple town. I taste soups, coffee, crepes, and a winning coconut snack – and all before lunch!

“In Laos, we usually put a lot of chili in papaya salad,” Mr. Oun explains. “Here we say if it’s not spicy, it’s not delicious.” Mr. Oun normally eats the popular salad with about 10 chilies. “But for today I think two or three chilies will be enough!”

I ask Mr. Oun if his mouth explodes with a 10-chili kick. “It goes a bit red,” he lets on. I confess I normally steer clear of this firebomb. The last time I ate papaya salad in Laos it stripped the roof of my mouth.

I’m game, though. We pull up at a roadside stall busy with customers. A young woman is pounding a large, deep mortar with a pestle grinding the yellow-green papaya shreds with chilies, lime, and sugar. She tests a spoonful frequently for taste. She outsources, too: a male worker is asked to put his taste buds into action; a little boy is commandeered to chop limes.

Mr. Oun tells the stallholder the falang (me, the foreigner) could probably manage maybe two chilies. She turns around and looks me up and down. “Just one!” she announces.

I’m secretly relieved. But even with just the one red chili, I can feel my mouth begin to flame.

Our pedal started earlier in the day at the Morning Market, a straight-as-an-arrow alley that runs beside the wall of Wat Mai temple. The market branches out to food stalls, guest houses, and stalls selling clothes close to the Mekong River, but the fresh food goes on sale every morning at 05:30. It’s packed when we arrive. Women – all women – perch on a low brick wall with trays

Khao Nom khok are a favorite treat served fresh and hot

and bags stuffed full of produce and buckets and bowls of water thrashing with live creatures. Monks in saffron robes clutching mobile phones walk through, customers mill about, and sellers balance baskets of fresh vegetables on shoulder poles as they navigate the tight alley.

As a visitor from the West, I’m used to picking out apples, pears, plums, and onions at fresh produce markets. In Luang Prabang’s morning market, I had no idea what many of the goods for sale could be. Mr. Oun was the perfect guide for my many questions.

We pass sellers of khao lam (bamboo stuffed with a blend of black sticky rice, coconut milk, and sugar that are laid over coals for a grilling). I learned that not only is it delicious but that out of a whole crop of bamboo varieties, there’s only one bamboo trunk that can be used to make khao lam

A slim, green, spiky wood catches my eye. It’s young rattan. “They burn the thorns off, strip the bark and then with a mortar and pestle pound it with chili and salt,” Mr. Oun says. Young rattan is eaten with sticky rice and goes into making a young rattan sauce.

above: Luang Prabang's Morning Market

1. Ba Bin coconut pancakes are a filling snack

2. Freshly grilled tilapia for sale

3. Lao-style takeaway is a practical meal for busy people

Between the women selling limes, mushrooms, ginger, and red chilies, a man stands with a megaphone persuading the locals of the benefits of dark bottles of liquid he’s holding. It’s tamarind water, Mr. Oun says. The peddler tells us it’s good medicine for blood pressure.

Past piles of lush carrots, tomatoes, aromatic herbs refreshed by sprinkles of water, and spring onions are fish laid out in full, in fillets, or wriggling about in shallow bowls. Mr. Oun points out pa nai, a Mekong River common carp used to make the classic Lao dish of laap (minced fish with diced herbs), and a bucket of fermented fish sauce – pa daek, which accompanies most Lao meals.

I goggle at so many foods I’d never see in the West – palm fruit seeds that look like large white jellybeans, bamboo rats, dried buffalo lung, eels, khai phaen – a delicious snack of wafer-thin dried river weed speckled with sesame seed and garlic, and chunky chili wood – sakhan, that goes into the thick meaty Lao broth, or lam

At the end of the long alley, we emerged into the dry goods and packaged foods area where rice is sold in enormous sacks. Luang Prabang

honey is sold, as well as packaged bamboo shoots, black pepper, coffee, tea, mushrooms, and dried chili. Some women grilled bananas, and sausages for passers-by, and a flash of heat would warm me as we strolled past the fiery coals.

Oun spies a noodle soup stall, and we sit down for khao poun. It’s a favorite with Lao people and normally comes laced with coconut milk but we’d arrived late in the morning and had to dig into our bowl without this sweetening flavor. The hot broth, stuffed with rice noodles, herbs, lettuce, buffalo meat, pork liver, and chili is not unlike the aromatic Vietnamese soup, pho. But I’m disappointed we’re late for the real deal. After our market wander, we seek a reviving coffee. At a popular café on the Mekong River, we relished our caffeine hit. Mr. Oun drank café nom – thick black coffee from Laos’ southern Bolaven Plateau with a large dollop of condensed milk. Mine was black and ridiculously strong.

Mr. Oun, clearly not full from our khao poun, ordered khao piak khao, a rice porridge soup of pork, coriander, cumin, and spring onion, scattered with fried garlic. The aroma of garlic nearly knocked me out. “I sometimes eat this in the morning.” Mr. Oun says, “but my favorite foods are buffalo laap, papaya salad, and bamboo shoot soup.”

We move from rice-based soups to rice crepes at a street stall across town. A young man sits surrounded by the culinary clutter of his singular dish – bowls of eggs, elephant ear mushrooms, plates, and oil. He ladles rice crepe mixture across a stretched piece of fabric on a hot coal cauldron. He folds in the mushrooms and then cracks an egg on the ready crepe. It’s rolled, placed on a dish, and sprinkled with crispy shallots. This dish, nem khao is “sep lai,” I say, ‘very good’. It’s seriously delicious. If it wasn’t my second or third dish of the day, I’d have ordered one more.

I’d be in good company. The Lao love their food so much that when they meet and greet, they don’t ask each other how they are but if they have eaten breakfast, or lunch yet. I had had more than one of those but was hankering after something sweet.

Khao nom khok (coconut pancakes) are the perfect pick-me-up. Bite-sized, moreishly good, not overly sweet, and very filling. We pedal to the stall of the coconut pancake queen, opposite the town’s police station. Ms. Bee has been making and selling khao nom khok for the last 27 years in the same spot under her umbrella. Locals draw up in cars and on scooters to take away her punnets of coconut snacks. Khao nom khok is made

from coconut milk mixed with a little bit of sugar, and sticky rice powder. It’s ladled into half-moon indents in a heavy pan and cooked over coals.

We sit down at Ms. Bee’s stall and are served our sweets on a banana leaf. I’m so eager I can’t wait and manage to burn my tongue on the hot puds. Ms. Bee’s khao nom khok are sweet, but delicately so. Mr. Oun reckons Ms. Bee’s khao nom khok are so popular because she gets the balance of ingredients right. We can’t eat all ten at once so carry the punnet with us to the mulberry paper-making village to cycle off a few calories before heading to the papaya salad stall. When I returned to my hotel, I lay down for a much-needed rest. But I have a sneaky feeling I continued my foodie journey that night at a Lao restaurant recommended by Mr.

Laos!

Oun. Khop Chai

1. Vendors sell produce along both sides of the narrow alley

2. Khao Nom Chok is a snack made of fried batter and soybeans

Located a 15-minute drive from Luang Prabang International Airport, Parasol Blanc is an eco-friendly hotel, and offers 30 comfortable rooms, all with private balcony, surrounded by a lush abundant tropical garden, a swimming-pool and a beautiful Lotus pond.

GETTING THERE

Lao Airlines flies regularly to Luang Prabang from Vientiane and other cities in the region.

MORE INFO

Tiger Trail operates this half-day foodie tour. For bookings, visit laos-adventures.com

CONTACT

Mr Bee, Reservation Manager reservation@parasol-blanc.com www.parasol-blanc.com

+856

252 124

寻味琅勃拉邦

品味文化遗产古城 翻译及编辑 尹航

摄影 ANITA PRESTON / EVENSONG FILM

吃木瓜沙拉啦！我的向导 Oun 先生说。老挝木瓜沙拉 是一道非常火辣的菜，也是我大排档美食的最后一项。 我在这座寺庙之城探寻当地美食。 午餐前我就品尝了 汤、咖啡、薄饼和美味的椰子小吃！ “老挝的木瓜沙拉通常会放很多辣椒，”Oun 先生说。“我们这里 认为不辣就不好吃。”Oun 先生通常在木瓜沙拉里放十个小米辣。“不 过今天我觉得两三个辣椒就够了！” 我承认我通常不会吃这道菜，因 为上次吃老挝木瓜沙拉时真的把我的嘴巴弄疼了。

但我这次还是试了。 Oun先生告诉摊主，老外大概只能吃两个 辣椒。摊主转身上下打量了我一下，然后说“还是放一个吧！”。我暗自 松了口气，但即使只有一个辣椒，我感觉嘴里还是火辣辣的。

清晨，我们从Wat Mai 寺庙附近的早市出发，开始自行车骑行。 我们到早市的时候，市场很忙。 女人们坐在地上，端着装满农产品的 托盘和袋子，还有装满活物的水桶、水盆。 穿着藏红色长袍的僧侣走 过，顾客四处走动，有些卖家用扁担挑着装满新鲜蔬菜的篮子售卖。

上面: Chok 甜点是一种油炸 面糊和大豆制成的小吃

2. 新鲜的湄公鱼售卖

3. 琅勃拉邦早市

如何到达 老挝航空有万象及其他城市往 返琅勃拉邦的航班。

更多信息 Tiger Trail 提供半天的美食

之旅服务。如需预定，请访问 laos-adventures.com

我们经过竹筒饭（黑糯米、椰奶和糖混合后塞入竹子蒸）的小摊。 我发现这种饭不仅好吃，而且在众多竹子中，只有一种竹子可以用来 制作竹筒饭。Oun 先生告诉我 pa nai（罗非鱼）是用来制作老挝经典 菜肴 laap（鱼末配香料）的鱼，还可以用来制作鱼露 ‒ pa daek，而鱼 露在老挝很多菜肴中都有添加。

Oun 又发现了一个面条摊，我们坐下来吃 khao poun（咖喱面） ，一种由米粉、香料、生菜、水牛肉、猪肝和辣椒制成的汤面。逛完市场 后，我们在湄公河边一家颇受欢迎的咖啡馆喝咖啡。 Oun 先生点了 cafe nom（甜奶咖啡）：老挝南部波罗芬高原的黑咖啡配大量炼乳。

Oun 先生没吃饱，他又点了 khao piak khao（老挝米粥），一种 由猪肉、香菜、小茴香、葱和炒大蒜制成的稀饭汤。“我一般早上吃这 个。”Oun先生说:“我最喜欢的食物是水牛肉沫配香料、老挝木瓜沙 拉和笋汤。”

老挝人太喜欢他们的食物，以至于他们见面打招呼时，不会问对 方过得怎么样，而是问他们是否吃过早餐或午餐。而我呢，吃了太多， 就想吃点甜的。

Khao nom khok（老挝甜品）绝对是我的必吃。一块正好一口

大小，好吃又不太甜，而且很饱。然后我们骑车去了镇上警察局对面 的椰子煎饼皇后摊位。过去的 27 年里，Bee 女士就在同一地点，一个

大伞下制作和售卖老挝甜品（ khao nom khok）。她的点心很受当 地人欢迎。 我们一下吃不完十个，所以打包带走。回到旅馆休息一下

之后，就又马不停蹄的去Oun 先生推荐的一家老挝餐厅继续我的美 食之旅。谢谢啦老挝！

RUN FOR CHILDREN

Strengthen your heart while keeping theirs beating

TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE LAO FRIENDS

HOSPITAL FOR CHILDREN

The annual Run for Children powered by Prudential will take place in Luang Prabang on Saturday the 28 th of October 2023! Scheduled on the same weekend as the iconic Lantern Festival, this year's event promises to be bigger than ever before.

When you participate, you don't just get a great workout, but you also make a tangible difference in the lives of Lao children. 100% of the proceeds go to supporting Lao Friends Hospital for Children, which provided free healthcare to over 35,000 children in 2022.

A quote is engraved above the entrance to Lao Friends Hospital for Children. It reads, “Treat every child as if they were your own.” The team at LFHC goes above and beyond every day to make these words a reality.

The Luang Prabang Half Marathon is an excellent way for you to support the work being done at LFHC and be part of one of the largest community events of the year in Luang Prabang.

The more people who run, the greater the impact, so remember to invite your family, friends, and colleagues to race alongside you!

above: Runners in historic downtown Luang Prabang

Register by scanning the QR code below

LUANG PRABANG BOAT RACING FESTIVAL

A annual test of endurance, teamwork, and speed

TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

Monsoon rains have flooded the rivers during the three-month season of Buddhist Lent, causing mythological water serpents known as Nagas to swim into the irrigated rice paddies. In order to entice the playful guardian Nagas back into the rivers before the waters recede, the Lao organize longboat races with nearby villages competing. Racers compete for bragging rights and prizes as large audiences gather on the shore to cheer them on.

The tournament is staged on the Khan River in Luang Prabang halfway through Buddhist Lent (this year it is on September 14th) with onlookers crowding both banks. Miss New Year and Lao dignitaries watch the races from a magnificent pavilion at the finish line and award prizes to the winning teams.

The Boat Racing Festival in Luang Prabang

1. Monks bless a boat before the race

2. Rowers join the blessing ceremony from the shore

3. Locals gather on the banks to cheer on their favorite teams

4. Boats race approximately one kilometer to the finish line

琅勃拉邦 龙舟节

耐力、团队协作及速度的年度大考验 翻译及编辑 尹航

摄影 PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

在为期三个月的佛历期间，季风雨水填满了湄 公河，这是传说中Nagas 水蛇便悄悄游入稻 田。为了在河水退去之前吸引顽皮的Nagas 返回湄公河，老挝人就想到了组织以村为单 位赛龙舟的办法。当龙舟手努力争夺大奖的时候，观众则 聚集在岸上为他们加油。

比赛在佛教四旬期（今年是 9 月 14 日）过半时上演， 琅勃拉邦的河两岸挤满了观众。泼水节老挝小姐和老挝政 要会在终点线迎接所有龙舟冲线，并为获胜队伍颁奖。

上面: 龙舟在出发线处等待

1. 参赛者必须统一节奏快 速划桨才能取胜

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