Charitable Traveller - September-October 23 - Issue 18

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Caring conservation

A growing number of holidays provide the chance to give back – it's win-win for people and planet

September/October 2023 ISSUE 18
50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful
BACK TO THE BALEARICS 10 of the most responsible places to stay on the islands WINTER HOLIDAYS Ideas from France, Switzerland, Sweden and Scotland TAKE ME TO TILOS Discover the tiny Greek island with the big soul
50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful

Make a CHOICE

FROM THE EDITOR Rebecca Miles

When I think about travel and where to travel next, I’m in a fortunate enough position to be able to make choices, and I think it’s fair to say that the same applies for many of our readers. To travel the world is an incredible privilege and for all of us at Charitable Travel it’s not one we take lightly.

But why the soul searching? Because this summer has been too hot or too wet or too unsettled for too many, and if we’re to have any impact on climate change, we need to make wise choices

in everything we do. While we continue to need governments to make bold, sweeping improvements, we each have the power to choose better.

If you’re keen to tread lightly on your next trip, allow us to inspire you, in this issue, with a collection of incredible conservation holidays (from page 16) and a selection of alternative winter holidays (from page 26). And talking of choosing better, we’re proud to be the first media title to adopt an animal protection policy – you can read it here: charitable.travel/animal-welfare

You’ll find our ethos of travel for good running throughout the magazine – where will you choose to visit next?

TRAVEL, Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, BR1 1LW, UK. Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes. Our animal protection policy can be viewed here. T: 020 3092 1288

E: bookings@charitable.travel W: charitable.travel While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, CHARITABLE TRAVEL cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. FRONT COVER: 123RF.com ICONS: thenounproject.com & flaticon.com. CEO: Melissa Tilling; MARKETING: Ally Ware, Rosie Buddell, Adam Pedley & Maddy Foot; SALES: Ali Nicholls; MAGAZINE EDITOR: Rebecca Miles (editor@charitable.travel); MAGAZINE DESIGNER: Claire Gates

If you’re keen to tread lightly on your next trip, allow us to inspire you with a collection of incredible conservation holidays and a selection of alternative winter holidays
©CHARITABLE
TRAVEL 2023. CHARITABLE TRAVELLER is part of CHARITABLE
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INSIDE this issue 50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful September/October 50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful THE BALEARICS the most responsible places to stay HOLIDAYS France, Switzerland, Sweden TILOS tiny Greek island with the big Caring conservation A growing number of holidays provide chance to give back it's win-win people and planet 4 Get the picture 9 Global good news 13 Armchair travel 14 Win Lonely Planet’s Gourmet Trails of Europe 15 Green traveller What is greenwashing, and how to avoid it? 16 Conservation holidays A round up of opportunities to give something back on your next holiday 24 Get to know Belize 26 Winter holidays A selection of alternative wintersports’ destinations in Europe 36 Get to know Fort Lauderdale 39 Postcard from Toronto 40 Greece Getting under the skin of the island of Tilos 46 5 travel... must-sees in Fiji 51 Why I donate... Running in France for Widowed and Young 52 Accessible travel in Essen 54 Top 10 responsible hotels in the Balearics 58 5 charities... supporting the great outdoors 60 Social enterprise Q&A with Fair Shot 62 Day in the life with Snow Camp’s programme director 63 In numbers Stick ‘n’ Step 54 26 CHARITABLE TRAVELLER 3 BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288 CHARITABLE.TRAVEL

GET THE picture

Le Tour... in Italy

Amping up its cycling credentials is the northern Italian region of Emilia Romagna as it prepares to jointly host the Tour de France’s Grand Départ next summer, from 29th June, with Florence. The 111th edition of the race will pass through some key checkpoint towns, including Bologna, Rimini, Cesenatico and Plaisance, as the cyclists compete on Italian soil for the first time. Already a favourite destination for the Giro d’Italia, there are some classic routes all cyclists, whether on a road bike or a mountain bike, should tackle in the region. Shown here is Forte di San Leo in the commune of Sant’Agata Feltria, 45km south of Rimini.

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Welcome to The Whale

This spectacular attraction – not a traditional natural history museum, nor art gallery or research institute but taking the best of each and fusing them into something new – is due to be built in Vesterålen, Norway. Here, the continental shelf is only 10km from the shore and plunges steeply into the depths, making it ideal for whale spotting. Designed to imitate the great beauty of these mammals, The Whale will celebrate the important role these magnificent creatures play in Norwegian coastal culture.

CLOSER THAN YOU THINK YOUR BAHAMAS GETAWAY

From crystal clear turquoise waters and endless white sand beaches to world-class resorts fitting any lifestyle, a holiday to Nassau Paradise Island will truly be an escape to paradise.

Explore more at charitable.travel/sustainable-nassau-paradise-island

Get the picture

Looking after tourism for generations to come

With its warm, welcoming people, rich cultural heritage and heavenly natural beauty, Saint Lucia truly offers something for everyone. From lush rainforests teaming with rare and exotic birds to warm Caribbean seas filled with stunning marine and coral life, this is a naturelover’s dream. The island also prides itself on offering attractions which help to preserve and enhance its environmental, social and cultural wellbeing – not just for today but for future generations. For more inspiration visit: charitable.travel/sustainable-saint-lucia

Get the picture
www.charitable.travel/fort-lauderdale

Cycling

10 CITIES GAIN A CASH BOOST FOR BIKES

Bloomberg Philanthropies has announced 10 cities around the world that’ll benefit from its Bloomsberg Initiative for Cycling Infrastructure award. Each city will receive up to $1 million to accelerate the delivery of transformative, cycle-friendly street designs. Expect to see improvements in these cities: Fortaleza, Brazil; Addis Ababa, Ethiopia; Bogotá, Columbia; Lisbon, Portugal; Milan, Italy; Mombasa, Kenya; PimpriChinchwad, India; Quelimane, Mozambique; Tirana, Albania; and Wellington, New Zealand.

GLOBAL good news

Animal welfare

PUTTING ANIMAL RIGHTS FRONT AND CENTRE

Charitable Traveller magazine is proud to be the first media title to adopt an animal protection policy. Melissa Tilling, founder and publisher of Charitable Traveller , says, “We’ve worked closely with World Animal Protection to develop a policy that demonstrates our belief that all animals should be respected for their intrinsic value, and we recognise that animals have a right to a wild life. As such, we won’t permit the use or feature of captive wild animals within our magazine for any purpose, including for advertising.”

Katheryn Wise, wildlife campaign manager at World Animal Protection, added: “We’re absolutely thrilled to see Charitable Traveller magazine take this progressive step to develop an animal welfare policy that provides clear guidance on what they will feature in the magazine through editorial and advertising space. For readers, they can relax knowing that they can take inspiration from the gorgeous features knowing that all of the content is wildlifefriendly.” Visit charitable.travel/animal-welfare for full details of the policy.

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A RECORD NUMBER OF HEAT PUMPS AND SOLAR PANALS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED BY UK HOMEOWNERS SO FAR THIS YEAR, SAYS MCS, THE BODY THAT CERTIFIES LOW -CARBON SETUPS.
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Image courtesy of Wildlife SOS

Gender equality

Conservation MORE TREES FOR THE GAMBIA

Over 7,000 highly endangered indigenous fruit and nut tree species will be planted in Sintet, in The Gambia, thanks to a joint initiative between specialist tour operator The Gambia Experience and conservation organisation CAPED Gambia (Community Action Platform on Environment and Development). The aim is to have a significant impact on the environment, food security and entrepreneurship within the region’s vulnerable rural communities. Holidaymakers can contribute to the scheme and book with The Gambia Experience via Charitable Travel.

beyond ordinary...

Explore the winding trails of the UNESCO-listed Main Ridge Reserve and you’ll be greeted by spectacular bird song and vibrant colours. This unique montane forest has been protected since 1776 and the sustainable management of the island’s biodiversity is just as important to Tobagonians today – we’re the only island in the Less Antilles to have recently been awarded Blue Flag status. Our eco journey continues…

Explore more: #101ReasonsTobago

Global good news
Taiwan has joined more than 20 places around the world to provide free period products. Available in all schools and universities, the government is also subsidising period products for low-income students.

Train travel

MORE OPTIONS FOR SKIERS

Travelling by train to ski resorts in Austria, Italy and Switzerland promises to be easier this year, thanks to Inghams, a specialist operator bookable via Charitable Travel, offering train travel from London St Pancras in some of its package holidays. Previously, it’s only been the French ski resorts of the Tarentaise (including Val d’Isère, Courchevel and Les Arcs) that have been straightforward to reach by train, but this development opens up such resorts as St Anton (Austria), Sestriere (Italy), and Zermatt, and Wengen (Switzerland).

History & culture

NEW TRAIL IN SRI LANKA EMPOWERS WOMEN

A 300km walking trail in Sri Lanka, which opened in 2021, is already having a positive impact on the women in its local communities. The Pekoe Trail is split into 22 segments, each about 12km long, and carries walkers through the country’s tea plantations and hillside communities. Created by adventurer and travel specialist Miguel Cunat, it has encouraged women to set up small businesses along the route, and has exposed the challenging working conditions for women working as tea pickers, forcing some estate owners to make improvements.

Global good news
charitable.travel/caribbean/sustainable-barbados/

GRAB LIFE BELIZE

Grab Life

and experience activities from spotting spectacular birds in the jungle and visiting a jaguar reserve to pounding on a Garifuna drum. Zip-line through tropical rainforests to spot over 600 species of birds, howler monkeys and the elusive jaguar, or go tubing through ancient caves and island hopping picturesque cayes and beaches

Belize boats the second largest barrier reef in the world which is popular for scuba diving and snorkelling year-round. Turtles, rays, manatees, dolphins, whale sharks and over 500 species of fish call the UNESCO-listed Belize Barrier reef home.

Discover 3,000 years of Maya history at ancient archaological sites. Connect with the Garifuna culture and take a lesson in cooking, Punta dancing or learn to make a traditional drum

Find out more at www.charitable.travel/belize

Ready to get out there?

ALONE Channel 4

Eleven people, dropped in Canada’s remote wilderness, compete to survive for as long as possible... completely alone. With £100k to be won, who will be strong enough to cope with the harsh reality of the unforgiving terrain in the Dehcho region of Northwest Territories? Each dropped a minimum of one mile away from each other, they have to film themselves, as they build shelters, hunt and try –not always successfully – to light fires. Launched on 6th August, it’s airing weekly.

HIGH: A JOURNEY ACROSS THE HIMALAYAS THROUGH PAKISTAN, INDIA, BHUTAN, NEPAL AND CHINA

To call the Himalayas a melting pot is an understatement. Meandering for more than 2,000km through Pakistan, India, Myanmar, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan, it’s where the world religions of Islam, Buddhism and Hinduism mix with ancient shamanic beliefs. In this book, the focus is on the communities, particularly the women, that call its valleys home, as Fatland takes us on an expedition through incredible landscapes and dramatic, unknown histories.

THE

TENNIS CHAMPION WHO ESCAPED THE NAZIS: LIESL HERBST’S JOURNEY, FROM VIENNA TO WIMBLEDON

Book Book

ARMCHAIR travel time

Transport yourself this month to the wilds of Canada or the heights of the Himalayas, or opt to follow historic footsteps or global flavours

NATIONAL DISH: AROUND THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF FOOD, HISTORY AND THE MEANING OF HOME

TV Book

Tracing the true story of the Austrian National Tennis Champion’s journey from Vienna to Wimbledon to escape the Nazis in 1930, Liesl Herbst was 27 and a celebrity in Austria when she fled with her husband David and their daughter, Dorli. Written by her grand-daughter, the family were rendered stateless aliens yet Liesl and Dorli remain the only mother and daughter ever to have played doubles together at Wimbledon.

The award-winning food writer explores the idea ‘we are what we eat’, travelling from Paris to Tokyo, Seville to Istanbul and learning along the way about the stratospheric rise of ramen, the legend of pizza and the complex legacy of multiculturalism in a meze feast. She finishes at home in Queens, New York, and reflects on food’s pivotal role in our identity.

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LONELY PLANET FOOD’S

Gourmet Trails OF EUROPE

Lonely Planet’s latest guide is a feast for all the senses

Allow your tastebuds to guide you through Europe to find some delicious delights on your next holiday with the help of Lonely Planet Food’s latest guide, Gourmet Trails of Europe. Seeking out tasty treats is one of the top things travellers like to do and there are so many off the beaten track options, well-known and loved by locals, to discover at most traditional holiday destinations, that this book is bursting with suggestions.

Highlights include the Northern Soul delights of Northumberland, Volcanic flavours in Tenerife and Estonia’s seasonal specialties. Yet Lonely Planet Food’s Gourmet Trails of Europe doesn’t just reveal destinations that have unexpectedly amazing culinary scenes, it also showcases 40 locations across Europe for enjoying the very best local cuisine, with restaurant recommendations and tips from local experts, as well as epic food and drink itineraries to follow for gourmet weekend breaks. Pick an itinerary and you’ll be unearthing unforgettable

experiences around Europe, including bustling farmers’ markets, rustic tavernas, innovative restaurants, decadent chocolateries, revolutionary eco-distilleries, vibrant pop-up bars and much more. And each trail is accompanied by sumptuous full-colour photography and delightful trail maps. Also in the book, you’ll meet the chefs cooking heirloom recipes, the trailblazing winemakers producing world-famous vino, and the culinary pioneers creating a whole new food language. Or perhaps you’ll be inspired to dine below Norway’s icy North Sea, devour fresh mezedhes in Greece or forage for wild herbs in Germany’s Black Forest. So whether you want to spend your next weekend away pushing boundaries and eating bugs in Wales, or going classic and discovering UNESCO vineyards in France, there’s a food focus in here for you.

Lonely Planet Food’s Gourmet Trails of Europe is out now in hardback for £17.99, available where all good books are sold.

Win!

We’ve got 10 copies of Lonely Planet Food’s Gourmet Trails of Europe to give away – to be in with a chance of winning one, visit lonely-planetcharitable.travel/ to enter our competition

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HOW TO BE A green traveller

Key in ‘eco hotel’ into a search engine and you’ll be

with a bewildering choice – but are they

they sound? Richard Hammond, editor of our

Traveller magazine that launched this summer, provides some tips for how to tell the green from the greenwash

The increase in awareness of the climate and nature emergencies has motivated many accommodation businesses to make a concerted effort to go green, however, others are merely playing lip service without any real commitment. Certification labels can help point the way, but not every hotel can afford the time or money to sign up to these schemes, so here are some questions to help you do your own audit to find those hotels where the owners and managers are genuinely going the extra mile to help you sleep green.

Why travelling more sustainably is important

Look beyond the ‘green policy’. See if their commitment to being a green-minded business cuts across all their messaging, not just tucked away in a ‘green policy’, particularly regarding how they reduce their use of energy, minimise the amount of waste they send to landfill, and reduce their draw on water. For instance, in the ‘Rooms’ section, they mention their recycling facilities; in the food section, they show you where and how to choose local, seasonal food; and on the ‘How to find us’ page, they say how to arrive by public transport or on foot – they won’t just assume you’ll fly or drive.

Consider the design and context of the building

Does the building fit into the local landscape? Is the siting and design of the building unobtrusive and sympathetic to the colours and aesthetics around it? Have they cleared trees, redirected water sources, or eliminated any other biodiverse habitat in order to build it? Keep an eye out for the concept of biophilia – where the architecture and design is more in tune with nature, making the most of natural lighting and ventilation, natural materials, including

wood and stone, and natural landscaping in the form of living roofs and wildlife-friendly outdoor spaces.

Check that they protect wildlife

Do they actively encourage the conservation of biodiversity? Are their gardens wildlife-friendly, attracting bees, butterflies and other indicator species (without using insecticides or artificial fertilisers)? Do they plant native flora? Do they weed by hand, rather than using weedkillers? Do they contribute financially or otherwise to local wildlife charities or community groups?

Keep an eye out for the little things

It’s often small touches that can help signal an owner’s heartfelt commitment to the environment, such as providing jugs of water and home-grown wildflowers on the table; the upcycling of things like flowerpots in the garden; or a logbook for documenting wildlife.

Even though a hotel may not look like it is doing much for the environment, it may be doing some of the important largescale changes behind the scenes, such as replacing an oil boiler with a lower emissions alternative energy supply, or installing a ground-source heat pump, that may not be immediately obvious. However, if you feel a hotel’s green claims are dubious; for instance, the absence of any recycling facilities whatsoever or the blatant over-use of energy and water, it is worth pointing out what you have seen. These kinds of observations are an important signal to the hotel that visitors are making decisions based on green claims and can help others make more informed choices about where they stay.

Next issue: How to travel more sustainably to your holiday destination

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Conservation holidays

10Conservation holidays AROUND THE WORLD

Travel with a company that puts conservation front and centre, and you’ll be giving back while getting so much more from your next adventure

Whether you’re looking for a hands-on holiday rewilding depleted landscapes, an island adventure protecting endangered turtles, or a relaxing stay immersed in nature, a conservation-focussed escape is an exciting way to have a positive impact on the planet. Not only will you get a sense of satisfaction knowing your time has been put to good use, you’ll also gain the physical and mental health benefits of spending time in the wild, and have the chance to meet like-minded people, too. From Scotland to Sri Lanka, Costa Rica and beyond, here are 10 ideas for making your travels matter, and they can all be booked through Charitable Travel.

Conservation holidays CHARITABLE TRAVELLER 17 BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288 CHARITABLE.TRAVEL
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Conservation holidays

PROTECT MARINE LIFE IN THE MALDIVES

While over-tourism has left a hefty footprint on coastal and marine environments around the world, Six Senses Laamu in the Maldives is turning the tide. Working in partnership with NGOs the Blue Marine Foundation, Manta Trust and Olive Ridley Project, the Maldives Underwater Initiative (MUI) educates locals and guests on ocean conservation. MUI has also helped to secure the designation of six Marine Protected Areas in Laamu Atoll, safeguarding precious turtle nesting beaches, coral reefs, mangrove forests and seagrass meadows. Guests can help with ongoing coral, seagrass, manta ray and turtle conservation projects, and the resort’s 10-strong team of marine biologists also lead Junior Marine Biology programmes.

Finding Nemo

BE A TRACKER IN SOUTH AFRICA

Powered by its Community Conservation Fund Africa, Mantis supports conservation, sustainability and community development projects from their resorts in Africa and Costa Rica. Mantis Founders Lodge near Gqeberha in South Africa offers guests the opportunity to get out in the field with expert guides on an Interactive Wildlife Tracks and Signs Experience, recording data used in conservation efforts. With daily game drives to spot the Big Five, the lodge also offers a Bear Grylls Survival Academy experience to inspire the eco-explorers of tomorrow.

MONITOR MANTA RAYS IN FIJI

Targeted by fisheries for their plankton-filtering gill plates, which are used in traditional Asian medicine, reef manta rays are now globally threatened, and these gentle ocean giants need our help. Kokomo Private Island’s luxury villas and residences overlook Fiji’s pristine sands and the Great Astrolabe Reef, where guests can join responsibly-led manta snorkel and dive expeditions, following the guidelines of conservation organisation, the Manta Trust. Visitors can also help marine biologists from the Manta Project Fiji to photograph and identify the rays, learn about manta tagging and adopt a manta, continuing their support for the species long after they’ve returned home.

Mighty rays

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BEAR GRYLLS SURVIVAL ACADEMY

SUPPORT WILDLIFE RANGERS IN AFRICA

Stay at one of Great Plains Conservation’s luxury safari camps and you’ll be helping to protect critical wildlife habitat and support the rangers working on the frontline to defend some of the world’s most endangered animals. A Conservation and Community Levy is added to each stay, funding initiatives including Project Ranger, which equips rangers with essential training and resources, and the Big Cats Initiative, which preserves land for Africa’s big cats and works with communities to reduce humanwildlife conflict. With properties in Kenya, Zimbabwe and Botswana, Sitatunga Private Island in the latter is its newest camp, offering ecofriendly adventures in the heart of the Okavango Delta.

Gentle giants

RESTORE A REEF IN THAILAND

Climate change, pollution and harmful fishing practices are impacting coral reefs and marine life around the world, but through its Coral Conservation Project, the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui is on a mission to save Thailand’s reefs, which have long been a magnet for divers and snorkellers. When they’re not soaking up the sun on the palm-fringed beach overlooking the Gulf of Siam, or enjoying a traditional Thai massage in the Secret Garden Spa, guests can play their part by joining the resort’s marine biologists for conservation workshops, responsible snorkelling tours, beach clean-ups and coral restoration.

LEARN HOW TO BE A NATURALIST IN SRI LANKA

If you’re looking to immerse yourself in nature, Sri Lanka’s beautiful Gal Oya Lodge is the perfect place to stay. The lodge’s nine traditional wooden bungalows and family villa are surrounded by 20 acres of private forest bordering Gal Oya National Park, home to elephants, leopards, sloth bears and fishing cats. Naturalists lead walking and jeep safaris in the park or boat tours on the country’s largest lake, while an on-site research centre welcomes guests to get involved with wildlife research and camera trap data collection, and forest forays with the Chief of the local indigenous Vedda tribe offer the chance to learn about native medicines and foods.

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Conservation holidays
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BIRDLIFE IN BELIZE

PROTECT BIODIVERSITY IN BELIZE

Known for its incredible biodiversity, rich tropical forests and spectacular coastline and islands, Belize is a magnet for eco-conscious travellers. The oneweek Journeys With Purpose Unknown Belize trip, which runs in February 2024, allows guests to get involved with a broad range of local and communityled environmental projects, tackling everything from climate change to habitat loss, jaguar conservation and coral reef restoration. The immersive expedition is led by Paul Lister, founder of The European Nature Trust, and naturalist guide Roni Martinez.

EXPLORE WITH AN ECO RANGER IN MAURITIUS

The natural beauty of Mauritius is legendary, with its lush forested peaks, plunging waterfalls, precious coral reefs and dreamy stretches of sand. The island’s luxe resorts are pretty heavenly, too, and at the One&Only Le Saint Géran, you’ll have 60 acres of a private peninsula to explore. Beyond the resort, guests can enjoy a personalised Walk The Wild experience with a Mauritian Wildlife Foundation ecoranger, helping to fund the conservation efforts of, among others, giant Aldabra tortoises, rare pink pigeons and echo parakeets.

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Conservation holidays

REWILD THE HIGHLANDS IN SCOTLAND

We may perceive the Scottish Highlands as wonderfully wild, but it was once covered with the ancient Caledonian Forest and today, just 1% of this native rainforest remains; the rest lost to human development, overgrazing and climate change. Wilderness Scotland’s Low Carbon Adventure minimises travellers’ impact on the environment with travel by electric luxury vehicle, e-bike, train and on foot. Guests can explore the Cairngorms National Park, join conservation charity Trees for Life in rewilding activities, and stay in a range of eco-friendly accommodations, from a remote bunkhouse on the shores of Loch Ossian, to a high-end sustainable hotel at Loch Ness.

Properly wild

HELP NATURE THRIVE IN COSTA RICA

Costa Rica is known for its forwardthinking approach to conservation and eco-tourism, and the Costa Rica Footprints tour with Latin Routes has sustainability at its core, ensuring your own travel footprint is kept to a minimum. Staying in some of the country’s best eco-lodges, guests have the opportunity to explore the natural wonders of the Osa Peninsula from the Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge, plant trees at a reforestation project at Selva Bananito Lodge, and lend a hand with the rehabilitation of injured and mistreated animals at the Proyecto ASIS Wildlife Rescue Center.

Fancy trekking through Kenya’s Highlands? Visit our eco-lodge, 2 hours from Lake Nakuru National Park. Meet local people in the company of experienced local guides and help grow the economy. Or support our projects bringing clean water, sanitation and healthcare to one million people in Kenya’s Kericho County.

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A MALE QUETZAL

Rise and shine in Dubai

Our newest destination just landed.

Direct flights depart four times a week from October 2023, and are available to book now.

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Get to know BELIZE

What’s it all about?

Some years back, during a Central American road trip, I entered Belize with some relief at finding an English-speaking nation after weeks of butchering the Spanish language of neighbouring countries. I’d only planned to spend a week here, yet with Belize a microcosm of almost every adventure I’d planned in the region my stay became longer. With jaguars, coral reefs, Maya culture, and Caribbean sunshine, it’s little wonder that the Belize’s current tagline is ‘Grab Life’.

Big cat diaries

In Cockscomb Basin I ended a long quest to see the elusive jaguar. The odds were good as Belize –the first country in the world to have a jaguar sanctuary – also has the world’s greatest density of jaguars; it’s a proud statistic that will endure. This is thanks in part to the country’s conservation ethos, which has led to the Maya Forest Corridor being created to link once separated populations and thus enhance their genetic diversity for generations to come.

Modern Maya

There’s a tendency to view Latin America’s ancient cultures as moribund, survived only by abandoned architecture. Belize does indeed possess sublime Maya archaeology pertaining to their apogee here between the 3rd and 9th centuries; not least Caracol, once home to 140,000 people. Yet Maya people today form 10 per cent of Belize’s population and their time-honoured culture persists. During a Maya living experience tour at Big Falls community, visitors can learn about their cooking, farming, and medicinal plant use.

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And another thing...

The birds

SPECIES

GALORE

No need to be a twitcher to appreciate Belize’s riotous birdlife. It’s not just eye-catching show-offs like toucans and scarlet macaws but coastal flamingos and myriad species of effervescent hummingbirds to spot, too.

WHY SO MANY?

The juxtaposition of sea, mountains, rainforest, and migratory routes ensures a rich mosaic of habitats attractive to the recorded 500 species.

WHERE TO SEE THEM?

Important Bird Areas (IBAs) delineated by the Audubon Society list hotspots including Cockscomb Basin and Guanacaste National Park, while at sea, Half Moon Caye and the Great Blue Hole are top of the list.

Caye to Paradise

Pronounced ‘key’, Belize’s barrier reef’s 450 paradisiacal coral atolls’ white sand beaches and turquoise lagoons suit all visitors, whether it’s families, honeymooners, luxury-seekers, or backpackers. Accessed by resort transfers and water taxis, each caye varies in character. Ambergris Caye is popular with luxury resorts and golf courses. Quieter and more laid-back is Half Moon Caye, known for its protected frigate bird colony.

No barrier to finding Nemo

Belize’s 10,000-year old barrier reef is a Utopian experience for divers and snorkellers. The second largest reef on Earth is redolent with bright corals and pretty fish –swim with manatees and sharks (look out for hammerheads) and explore the Great Blue Hole, a photogenic sinkhole within Lighthouse reef. In keeping with a sustainable ethos, a 375ft-long ship has been sunk at Blackbird Caye to create a world-class wreck dive to take visitor pressure off other natural reefs.

Creole cooking

Stir Belize’s exotic produce and creoleinfused cultures into a cooking pot and the inevitable outcome is a moreish cuisine. Start the day with Caribbean-style Johnny cakes – flour and coconut puffs. The staple is rice-and-beans eaten with meat or more lavishly, lobster. Cochinita pibil is a classic Maya dish of slow-roasted marinaded pork while abundant seafood ensures the ceviche is freshly divine. And do try the cashew wine.

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FRESH FISH SILK CAYE
The 12,000-strong religious Mennonite community are successful agriculturalists who speak Plautdietsch (low German), and generally shun modern technology

A TALE OF two times

The small French resort of Vaujany has leapt into the 21st century yet stays true to its ancient roots, while over the page we highlight some more alternative winter holiday ideas

We have enough,” says Yves Genevois, the mayor of Vaujany, a small ski resort in the southern French Alps. And with those three simple words, Mayor Genevois effortlessly sums up the character and soul of this village – it’s not greedy, it’s happy and content with its lot, and is one of a growing number of ski resorts that are recognising that a path of constant growth with endless new buildings and developments just isn’t sustainable in this delicate alpine environment.

Vaujany was originally a farming village and dates back over 1,000 years. Set in the Grandes Rousses mountains in the Isère department,

it’s at an altitude of 1,250 metres. Surrounded by alpine pastures, you won’t find any high-rise purpose-built blocks of apartments here; instead, it’s all pretty wooden chalets in keeping with its traditional past.

Arrive in the village and it’s not obviously clear where the ski slopes are, but cleverly designed to sit at the heart of the tiered village, with lots of lifts and escalators for easy pedestrian access, is a 160-person cable car and a smaller gondola that link the village to the much bigger Alpe d’Huez

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Julia Guerre
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domain and its 250km of slopes.

Skiing here is a tale of two contrasts. The pistes immediately above and around Vaujany are generally peaceful and largely suit early intermediates, while those in the main Alpe d’Huez domain are livelier and have options for every ability, from beginners through to experts –both have their merits and there’s a huge amount of terrain to cover, but there’s something refreshing about returning to Vaujany’s easygoing slopes.

Despite being surrounded by peaks that reach over 3,000 metres and close, as the crow files, to the burgeoning Alpe d’Huez, Vaujany is one of France’s newest ski resorts. For a long time the village was slowly in decline as its younger residents turned their back on farming life and left the mountains for opportunities elsewhere.

This sleepy village had its fortunes changed in 1988, when EDF, the

Winter holidays

French state-owned electricity company, built one of the country’s most powerful hydroelectric plants within its domain and gave the municipality a hefty payment (plus annual rent that gives a nice boost to the coffers). Collectively, the commune decided to spend it on building that big cable car to Alpe d’Huez and linking their future and fortunes to their famous big brother, while pledging to remain true to their rural roots.

The mayor and council recognise they must constantly reinvent the resort if it’s to remain attractive to visitors, but they choose to do this by renovating and rejuvenating existing buildings, rather than building anything new.

I stayed at the Hôtel Les Cîmes, a 10-bedroom family-run hotel at the entrance to the village that’s been in situ for over 100 years. Fully revamped within its original stone walls, it maintains its traditional footprint but is also full of modern

touches, such as fast Wi-Fi and wonderfully comfortable beds.

The decision to build the hydroelectric plant, the Grand Maison, here, rather than in any other Alpine communes, changed the fortunes of this traditional farming village. “In 30 years, we went from the middle ages to the 21st century,” says Mayor Genevois.

On a guided snowshoe walk with Alain Hilion later that day, it’s impossible to tell we’re in the 21st century. As we set off among the snow-covered pines into the Montfrais valley, the only sound is the scrunch of the snow beneath our tennis-racquet-shaped shoes and the odd joyful bark from Polka, Alain’s three-year-old border collie. We spot the tracks of hares and squirrels, and Alain points out the tell-tale signs of chamois, who’ve been eating the trunks of the pine trees.

The sun sets across the valley as we descend but with a full moon behind us, the light stays long after the sun dips behind the mountain ridge. It makes for a spectacular and timeless view.

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The mayor recognises the resort must constantly reinvent itself if it’s to remain attractive to visitors, but does this by renovating rather than building new
MAYOR YVES GENEVOIS Lionel Gehin

A northern star

Offering great conditions well into April, Sälen in Sweden is perfect for a family ski holiday

Booking a skiing holiday in the Easter holidays can be a risky business. For families tied to term dates, the Easter break is one of only three options available throughout the winter, and with Christmas conditions becoming less predictable and February half term eye-wateringly expensive, that just leaves Easter. But with often sunny and slushy conditions in the Alps by early April an Easter ski holiday can leave some fans wanting more. The answer? Head north, to Sweden.

Sälen is Sweden’s largest ski resort and is made up of four connected areas – Lindvallen, Högfjället, Tandådalen and Hundfjället. At the latter, you’ll find the SkiStar Lodge Hundfjället, a smart hotel full of self-catering apartments and suites sleeping up to 12 (the Swedes generally like to be autonomous on holiday and shun half-board options) and only a handful of hotel rooms, that opened in December 2021. From the outside, the eight-storey lodge wouldn’t be out of place in a North American ski resort, but inside it has a Scandinavian flair with a hint of Soho House suave that makes it impeccably stylish but also impeccably laid-back and friendly.

Built at the foot of the slopes and with its own ski rental shop and one of the fanciest ski locker rooms I’ve ever known exiting directly on to the snow, it couldn’t be more convenient, which is a huge plus for families. What’s even more of a plus for families with children of an impressionable age is the

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Winter holidays

Trollskogen (trolls’ wood) ski run. An enchanted forest in the Hundfjället area, it’s home to Sälen’s trolls who play and sing (yes really) throughout the day. My six-year-old daughter was utterly enchanted and would have happily skied this run on repeat for our whole stay. A gentle slope through the trees with narrow snow-covered tracks dipping and diving off to each side, we see the trolls do everything from attempt to ski jump to go to school, get married and even sit on the loo. With the smell of wood smoke coming from the self-service barbecue–ready huts (complete with logs and grills for all to use) and Våffelstugan waffle house it makes a sociable focal point at mid mountain.

The ski area in Sälen is so large that we – my husband and I, our daughter and my parents – don’t manage to cover it all during our stay, but what I do ski in Tandådalen and Hundfjället is ideally suited to intermediates, and both easy to access by fast chair lifts and T-bars, and easy to navigate. There’s also plenty to do off the slopes, including

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HUNDFJALLET

Winter holidays

the valley floor and winding among the trees. For kids, there are fun activities with Valle the snowman, the resort’s mascot, and in bus-linked Lindvallen, the largest of Sälen’s villages, is Experium, a huge indoor water park with slides, spa and surf simulator, plus bowling alley, arcades and restaurants.

Quickly settling into the swing of a family ski holiday in Sweden, we make sure to swim every day in the Lodge’s pool and relax in the large outdoor hot tub, as well as book time on the Lodge’s shuffleboard table, which quickly gets highly competitive.

Chatting with Ben Nyberg, managing director of Ski Scandinavia, which specialises in the region and is the first UK operator to sell holidays to SkiStar Lodge Hundfjället, he says Hundfjället is tailored towards independent ski families with 24-hour support via his

team based over the Norwegian border in Trysil. Married to a Swedish woman and raising his family in the country, his love for the whole of Scandinavia is clearly evident as he enthuses about its history, culture and way of life on the incredibly short 10-minute transfer to the Scandinavian Mountains airport from Hundfjället (another huge plus).

We relish our independence in Hundfjället, particularly when it comes to dinner. While the Lodge’s restaurant Potus! is impressive and inventive without being pretentious, it’s our meal at Joängets Våffelstuga, five minutes walk from the Lodge, that becomes a highlight. With it snowing heavily outside, we’re shown to our table in a little wooden cabin, lit only by the flames from the central fire flickering up the chimney. Around the fire five places are set, and we squeeze in to take our seats on the circular bench draped with blankets and cushions lining the cabin’s walls. Served a set menu of savoury waffles, reindeer steak and cloudberries, it’s the perfect end to our stay.

As the snow continues to fall and the temperature stays low, it’s hard to believe it’s late in the season. But it is, and we might just have found our new family favourite Easter getaway.

PRIDE & joy

Immerse yourself in the island’s vibrant culture with intention—reveling in jubilant month-long carnivals, sampling rum aged on the Caribbean’s oldest surviving distillery, and exploring the well-preserved walls of a 17th-century fortress and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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We see the trolls do everything, from attempt to ski jump to go to school, get married and sit on the loo!

Searching for the soul

How to have a more sustainable winter holiday

If you’re worried about the environmental impact of your winter holiday, here are our suggestions for how to have a less carbon-intensive time in the mountains

With a reputation as one of the world’s off-piste skiing epicentres, Andermatt is also an outstanding winter destination for winter walkers and alpine aficionados. Lying at the cross roads of medieval Europe, Andermatt, in the Uri canton in Switzerland, has an enormously rich history to discover and, as with finding the best skiing, you simply need a good guide to help.

Meet Bänz. Ask anyone in the village and they’ll direct you to Bänz Simmen – the owner of Kiosk 61, an internet café-cum-crystal shop. He describes himself as a tour guide, crystal digger, snowshoe tester, herbalist and if I had another two hours probably more besides.

Whipping out a 3D map he shows how Andermatt was perfectly placed for the medieval Italian citystates to access Germany for trade and a bit of fisticuffs.

Bänz’s snowshoe hikes around the

stories. I am a new convert to snowshoeing – I had long been dismissive of strapping ‘tennis racquets’ to my feet, but now love the wonderful stillness of padding through snowy forests.

Winter quiet, with the muffling effect of snow, is like no other. The tranquility heightens your other senses: the smells of the different pines, the subtle sounds of birds and marmots, the majestic views.

A wonderful narration avalanches from Bänz as we walk the Hospental loop, covering subjects from the 50 edible plants in the valley, to the crystals he digs up, as well as the myths and legends that abound.

Andermatt itself is a classic alpine village dating back centuries. All this will soon compete with the £1.5bn investment in Andermatt ‘new town’, kicked off by Egyptian billionaire Samih Sawiris. I’ll leave others to review the newly opened Radisson Blu hotel; I thoroughly enjoyed the casual, local charm of the familyrun Gasthaus Skiklub. Mascia Meneghel, the granddaughter of the founders, now runs the place and is a delight.

So what of this famed off-piste skiing? Conditions were not in my favour during my visit last winter, but the real highlight were the stories around the village and valleys from Bänz. ANDERMATT

Take the train. Flying to your destination eats up a lot of carbon and can be pretty stressful (if you’ve travelled through Geneva airport on a peak holiday weekend you’ll know the feeling). Instead, the train has many merits – including it’s more relaxing (there’s space to walk around, have a drink in the bar carriage, and no fear of turbulence); there are no extra fees for taking your skis or snowboard; and it provides the opportunity to break up the journey in an interesting city or two en route.

Or take the ferry and drive – as long as you have a full car of passengers (bonus points if you’re in an EV).

Choose your resort wisely. Some are making great strides in using renewable energy (Serre Chevalier in France, Laax in Switzerland) and doing clever things with, for example, how they manage their snow cover.

Look for the Flocon Vert (Green Snowflake) label in France, the EcoLabel and KLAR in Austria, and the Swisstainable mark in Switzerland.

Consider alternative winter sports away from the downhill pistes, such as snowshoeing, cross country and ski touring, where your impact on the mountains will only be snow deep.

Rent your gear, or if you must buy, buy to last. EcoSki is the go-to here, whether you choose to borrow some of its great quality kit, or be guided by its guide to the brands that are taking their sustainability responsibilities seriously.

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There’s more to Andermatt in Switzerland than epic off-piste terrain

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Our top experiencessnowsportScottish to try this winter

Into the wild

Breath-clouding temperatures, moon-like landscapes, and the rush of a wintery breeze… Some might say sliding the Scottish mountains in winter is the best way to explore this country. Whether that’s strapped to a snowboard or clicked-in to touring skis, Scotland’s mountains offer world-class snowsport slopes and backcountry terrain – if you’re willing to take the rough with the smooth.

Scotland is home to six lift-served snowsport areas: Glencoe; Glenshee; Cairngorm Mountain; Nevis Range; the Lecht; and the Lowther Hills. The resorts often enjoy enough snow to remain open (in fits and starts) from December all the way through to May. The snow may be of varying quality, but the fabled line, “If you can ski in Scotland, you can ski anywhere,” has its basis in truth. And for those with backcountry aspirations, there are miles of wilderness to explore across the Highlands and into the north-west of the country. Snow often remains in the

north-facing gullies throughout the winter and sometimes into June – just don’t forget your hiking boots, as there might be some gaps in the snow cover!

Of course, skiing in Scotland is not to be compared to cruising Alpine groomers or North America’s motorway pistes. It’s a more rugged and challenging affair in every sense. Fast changing weather can work for you or against you, but if you’re looking for adventure, a Scottish winter offers it in spades.

The experience is much more akin to exploring Norway or the club fields in New Zealand, where a hardcore of locals could tell you the exact number of days they have skied this season (and the last 20). It is this commitment, hardiness, and community spirit that keeps the resorts ticking over –welcoming and enthusiastic, whatever the weather. You’d find it difficult not to be inspired to get out and have a go.

If you’re thinking of taking your first slide this winter, all of the resorts offer lessons and kit hire from their mountain base stations (with the exception of the Lowther Hills, which is a volunteer-run club). If you’d like to flex your snow skills on some more remote terrain, why not check out the courses run by Glenmore Lodge, Wandering Workshops or British Backcountry? In recent years, ski touring and split boarding have experienced a boom across the globe thanks to lighter weight kit becoming more accessible, and a trend towards human-powered escapades – which the wild and wondrous Scottish mountains cater to perfectly.

The Wild Weekend at Glenmore Lodge (16-17 March, 2024) offers novice and experienced ski tourers the opportunity to dedicate a full weekend to exploring the Cairngorm mountains (complete with Saturday night apres-ski party).

Wandering Workshops offer immersive ski touring and split boarding adventures with a focus on mindfulness and wellbeing, as well as off-piste skill sessions and bespoke courses.

British Backcountry are the go-to-guys for bike and ski missions, gullyhunting tours, and navigation or snow safety clinics, with courses running at weekends wherever (and whenever) there’s snow.

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SKI TOURING AT GLENMORE
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Tempted by winter in Scotland? Ski instructor and ski touring guide Amy Marwick shares what makes the country so special

Crystal River

In the latest Travel Insider Podcast, we visit Crystal River, a coastal city in western Florida. An hour and a half west of Orlando, Crystal River sits proudly in the heart of Florida’s Nature Coast. It’s a city that prides itself on presenting the old-time authentic side of Florida – before the ‘mouse with the big ears’ arrived!

Famous residents

Here you’ll find lots of manatees – it’s one of the few places where people can considerately swim with manatees and help protect them at the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge. So join us as we talk to Kimberleigh Dinkins from the Save the Manatee Club, and Terri Natwick from Discover Crystal River.

EXPLORE Gran Canaria

Join us as we travel to Gran Canaria, the third largest Canary Island and a welcoming and tolerant holiday hotspot off the north-west coast of Africa in the Atlantic ocean. The volcanic island, famed for its popular beaches that largely run along the south of the island, has so much more to discover than many visitors realise.

Fort Lauderdale

Insider knowledge

Joining our host Rebecca Miles to talk about this side of the island – from the buzzing capital Las Palmas de Gran Canaria to the botanic gardens and art installations – is Maria Lezcano, a tour guide who has worked on the island for over 20 years and whose knowledge and enthusiasm is infectious.

speak to Tracy Vaughan and Paul Mason of Broward County Tourist board for an

Take

Home to a diverse, welcoming community and more than 300 miles of canals, as well as a stunning stretch of beach, Greater Fort Lauderdale is well-loved for its active outdoors lifestyle, enjoyed with a hint of luxury – and of course the Everglades!

guide to the region and all it has to

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Get to know FORT LAUDERDALE

What’s it all about?

In Fort Lauderdale you’ll find a diverse, welcoming community, more than 300 miles of navigable waterways, and a stunning stretch of beach. Found on Florida’s south-east Atlantic coast, its 31 beach towns and inland communities are just 45 minutes north of Miami. It’s well loved for its active outdoors lifestyle enjoyed with a hint of luxury – not just making the most of those waterways but in the Everglades too, which covers two thirds of the region. It’s a fabulous mix of glamorous al fresco dining downtown one minute, and up close and personal with all the gators, birds and wildlife in the Everglades the next.

On your bike

Trails for cycling and skating crisscross the city – which has been voted one of the top ten places in the USA to rollerblade – and it’s a favourite pastime of both residents and visitors. Hire a bike or some skates, and take to the epic scenic routes that take in the beaches and the vast open spaces, such as Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard, Elmer Drive in Lauderdale by the Sea, and Rio Vista.

Sea turtle nesting

The beach is a big deal here, and there are eight beach towns along the Atlantic Ocean plus inland communities on the Intracoastal Waterway, so you’re never far from the water. Deerfield is the most northern beach community, down to Hallandale in the south, and each has their own distinct vibe. Hillsborough is particularly popular, with its historic lighthouse, calm, relaxed atmosphere and, from March through to October, the sea turtles that come ashore to nest.

The Broward County Sea Turtle Conservation Program marks the nests, so everyone knows not to disturb them!

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Getting on the water

TIKI BOATS

A motorised, floating tiki bar, the tiki boat was invented by an engineer in Fort Lauderdale, whose garden backed on to a waterway. Now available to visitors here, they’re a fabulously fun way to kick off an evening of al fresco dining.

GONDOLA RIDE

Fully embrace the Italian way of life in the heart of the ‘Venice of America’ on a relaxing gondola cruise, the only authentic Italian vessel to operate in Fort Lauderdale. Book for a sunset, full moon, birthday or anniversary, or simply for fun and recline in style.

PADDLES UP

Explore Fort Lauderdale’s many Intracoastal waterways by stand up paddleboard and slow your pace of life right down. Several companies offer hire, lessons and tours.

Ditch the car

Fort Lauderdale is proud to be on the Brightline, the only provider of modern, eco-friendly, highspeed rail services in America. With a station in downtown Fort Lauderdale, and providing good ground transport to anywhere within five miles of the station, the train line runs from Miami, through Fort Lauderdale, up to West Palm Beach, and on to Orlando International Airport. Fully accessible, the trains and stations have been designed with plenty of space to accommodate guests using wheelchairs, walkers and other assistive devices.

A massive two thirds of the land here is home to natural attractions. The Everglades is the big one, but also worth exploring are the pine flat woods, lakes, canals, and nature reserves

Accessible travel

Friendly and welcome to all

With a long history of welcoming all colours and creeds, Fort Lauderdale is the capital of the LGBTQ+ community in Florida. Home to an incredible Pride event, and with many businesses, including hotels, bars, clubs and restaurants, LGBTQ+-owned and operated, it’s open to everyone under the sun; Greater Fort Lauderdale’s goal is to make everyone in the LGBTQ+ community feel seen, supported, comfortable and safe. Wilton Manors is the ‘gaybourhood’ while Sebastian Street Beach is one of the country’s top-rated gay beaches.

Greater Fort Lauderdale welcomes everyone under the sun and works to remove any barriers that’d prevent visitors from enjoying all 31 vibrant communities, including Fort Lauderdale. So whether you have visible or invisible disabilities, you’ll find all the support you need. For example, arrive at FLL airport and the Hidden Disabilities Sunflower Program offers guests with hidden disabilities, including learning difficulties, mental health, mobility, visual or hearing impairments, a discreet way to request help, and throughout the destination there is information on wheelchairs, sign language interpreters and listening devices are available, and the autism spectrum is understood.

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Just a couple of kilometres off downtown Toronto’s shoreline, a string of 15 pancake-flat, vehicle-free islands curves across Lake Ontario. Welcome to the lovely Toronto Islands, where Torontonians come to switch off, soak up the ever-changing urban skyline and go birdwatching, kayaking, swimming, paddleboarding and more.

In the mid-20th century, the islands grew to have around 2,000 inhabitants, with cottage-style houses dotted along the lakefront, meadows and woodlands. For the Mississaugas of the Credit First Nation people, this has been a sacred gathering place for thousands of years. Today only around 750 people live on Ward’s and Algonquin Islands, and there are strict regulations around buying and selling houses here.

I escape over to the islands on quiet, sunny weekdays to read and swim on Ward’s Beach, where a tree-shaded boardwalk frames a stretch of golden sand and views wander across the calm water to neighbouring Tommy Thompson Park. My first stop is always a flat white and a home-

Postcard from THE TORONTO ISLANDS

Looking across to downtown Toronto

baked blueberry scone at Runaway Cafe – a babypink pop-up coffee truck opposite tiny Algonquin Island, near the alsopopular Riviera patio restaurant on Ward’s.

On summer evenings, my partner and I join a soothing sunset paddleboarding trip with Toronto Island SUP.  Heading out from Algonquin Bridge, our

Regular 15-minute ferries run year round between Toronto’s Jack Layton Ferry Terminal and Ward’s Island

Ward’s Island

small group weave through meandering boat-lined canals, before emerging on the harbour front as the sun blazes orangey-pink over the Toronto skyline. We also cycle the entire length of the islands, from Ward’s dock to Gibraltar Point Lighthouse (a local landmark since 1808) and on past clothing-optional Hanlan’s Beach to the edge of Billy Bishop airport.  A few private-rental homes on the islands now even offer the chance to wake up here and savour the serene morning atmosphere. Come September, all those lush trees will turn fiery red and by the end of the year the islands will be covered in snow – for now though, it’s easy to see why this blissful place is Toronto’s favourite summer escape.

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Toronto Island SUP rents kayaks and paddle boards, along with SUP yoga, sunset excursions and more
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This small but perfectly formed Greek island may look old and traditional, but its attitude and outlook couldn’t be more forward thinking if it tried

IS TILOS Greece’s island?greenest

Imagine a Greek island whose white-washed houses were powered only by wind and sun, where dolphins danced in its sapphire seas, and orchidstudded trails meandering across magical meadows and mountains were more plentiful than roads. Welcome to Tilos. Yes, it might be the island none of us have heard of but that, perhaps, is its appeal. Part of the remote Dodecanese archipelago that hugs the Turkish coast, tiny S-shaped Tilos stands serene and solitary between hectic Rhodes and Kos. There’s no airport, it’s too far from its larger neighbours for day trips by boat, and mainland Greece is an epic 15-hour ferry journey away. So the island quietly carves its own path –one that over the past few decades has had a refreshingly green hue.

“There are no night clubs, water sports or high-rise hotels. You come here for the peace,” says Ian Hogg, a British resident who first visited Tilos 28 years ago, got hooked, and in 2006 gave up a secure job in the UK to move here permanently.

He now works as a rep for Sunvil and also helps out on the quay at the island’s port, Livadia. “People enjoy experiencing an authentic Greek island that’s free from mass tourism. When they get home, they often don’t tell anyone as they want Tilos to themselves!”

TO THE FUTURE

With its Byzantine fresco-daubed monasteries (catch their saint’s day feasts when the whole island parties), pocket-sized chapels standing sentinel on thymescented mountains, and valleys lush with olive and oak trees, things tick along here much as they have for centuries. But look a bit deeper and you’ll discover that far from being stuck in its past, Tilos is framing its future in ways that are making it a blueprint of sustainability.

For starters, the entire island is designated a nature reserve, home to 100-plus identified species of birds, 46 of them threatened. Keep your binoculars poised to spot Bonelli’s eagle, long-legged buzzard and Mediterranean

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black shag; look out for rare monk seals and turtles too. This bountiful biodiversity is partly thanks to the island’s fertility (due to a network of underground springs) and tiny population (850 at the

way, requiring that the ban be continuously renewed,” says Ian. “So Aliferis simply turned the whole island into a nature reserve. It was a stroke of genius!”

Another coup was to make Tilos the first island in Greece to run

last count), but also to its ecominded late mayor, Tasos Aliferis.

The mayor, a keen ornithologist, took the hugely audacious step of banning hunting, something almost unthinkable in Greece where country-dwelling males are pretty much inseparable from their rifles. It wasn’t easy. “The officials put obstacles in the

almost completely on renewable energy. Until then, it had relied on energy brought via underwater cables from Kos, but these often got cut and power surges and blackouts were frequent. Given Tilos’ abundant sun and wind it made sense to instead power its homes with solar panels and a wind turbine.

With the help of European

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TILOS Livadia Megalo Horio Mikro Horio Agios Antonios Lethra beach Despoti Nero beach Skafi beach Plaka beach Eristos beach TILOS Rhodes Kos GREECE TURKEY
This bountiful biodiversity is partly thanks to the island’s fertility (due to a network of underground springs) and tiny population, but also to its eco-minded late mayor
MIKRO HORIO

money, Tilos installed an electricity production and storage plant that now meets over three quarters of the island’s energy requirements. All homes have solar panels to heat their water, buses and other councilowned vehicles are electric, and street lights and bus information boards are solar-powered too. Outsiders are watching with interest, says Ian. “We’ve had visitors from other Greek islands, and also from abroad, including Japan.”

Aliferis died in 2012, but his mayoral mantle has been assumed by another equally enthusiastic environmentalist, Maria Kamma. Two years ago, with EU help, she decided to tackle another issue that challenges islands worldwide: waste. Refuse that had previously gone into landfill was recycled, reused or composted. “Households have their rubbish collected three times a week and it’s then sorted,” says Ian. “Collections from restaurants are three times a day. We measured our waste recently and found that 91.7 percent was

being recycled. We believe that’s a record for an island. Eventually we hope to achieve zero waste.”

Tilos has been transformed. Gone are the ubiquitous wheelie bins on every street corner. The landfill site has closed, and is now where a private waste management company sorts the waste. The island’s schools, in the 1990s tottering as the island’s population dwindled to just 500, are thriving. Electric-powered public buses run regularly and on time. Even the cats, a feature of every Greek island, are healthier, thanks to an initiative to get them neutered, which keeps numbers under control.

ANCIENT ROUTES

This can-do green ethos attracts a certain kind of tourist –mostly nature-loving walkers or birdwatchers, says Ian. The best time to visit is April, May and September when daytime temperatures are a comfortable 20-something. In spring the island is refreshingly green, illuminated

with Aegean-blue hyacinths, poached egg-shaped rock roses and holy orchids. In autumn, the mountains turn russet gold and the sea is warm for swimming. Footpaths follow trails that were once used by farmers to reach their crops, planted on the web of stone-built terraces that crisscrosses the island. “The network of paths is so extensive you could spend a fortnight hiking and do a different walk every day,” says Ian. Navigating them is easy, thanks to signposting by local volunteers, first-rate maps and an excellent walking guide, by another Brit, Jim Osborne.

Trails lead from Livadia along the coast in both directions; hike north to Lethra’s shingle beach (go early to bag the shade of its solitary tamarisk tree) or south to spring-fed Despoti Nero. Equally lovely is the ancient cobbled trail through the terraces up to Mikro Horio (Small Village), founded up in the mountains as protection against pirates.

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LIVADIA

Apart from its church, it’s now largely a ghost town with oak trees sprouting from its ruined houses. It’s worth returning in the evening to visit its bar, known as Night Club, inside a restored ruin, which in

the summer opens from 10.30pm through to 6am. A free shuttle bus runs there hourly from Livadia so if you’re not up for an all-night session you can still pop up for a quick nightcap.

Tilos’ tiny capital is Megalo Horio

tiny capital is Megalo Horio (Big Village), whose Persil-white cubed houses and narrow alleys cling to the limestone slopes

Tilos’

(Big Village), whose Persil-white cubed houses and narrow alleys cling to the limestone slopes. Stomp up to the stone-built Kastro (castle), where the Knights of St John had a base until Tilos fell to the Turks in the 16th century, or if that feels too energetic, join the locals for an ouzo at the artifactpacked Palio Meraki kafeneion

The shiny new museum houses an unusual exhibit: the bones of mastodons (dwarf elephants) that were discovered in a cave near here. The theory goes that the elephants probably roamed Asia Minor, to which Tilos was

FOUR MORE green Greek islands

Alonissos

One of the four Sporades islands, Alonissos and its pine-clad mountains feels a world away from its busier neighbours Skiathos and Skopelos. Even in summer, you can enjoy its sandy beaches and peaceful forests without the crowds. A lovely hike takes you from the port town Patiriri along a flower-decked track up to white-washed Hora, the Old Town. The highlight, though, is the marine park off Alonissos’ northern coast, the first such park in Greece and the largest in the Mediterranean. Jump aboard a classic sailing boat in Patiriri to tour the park’s numerous islands, including Piperi, home to the highly endangered Mediterranean monk seal, and raptors (such as Eleonora’s falcons) that live on its steep cliffs.

Astypalea

Butterfly-shaped Astypalea is the westernmost island of the Dodecanese, but historically and culturally feels more like one of the Cyclades (which you’ll see on a clear day). Climb from Skala port and its windmills up to the Old Town, Hora, and you’ll find whitewashed houses with colourful wooden balconies recalling the Cycladic building styles of Tinos and Mykonos.

Despite its rich past, Astypalea is looking firmly to the future by transforming its transport to run on renewable energy (solar and wind). Buses are being converted to electric, and residents receive hefty discounts to encourage them to buy electric cars and scooters. Sustainable tourism such as walking is promoted, allowing visitors to discover the island’s many trails, secret beaches and mountainside meadows.

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ALONISSOS Skyros Rhodes GREECE Alonissos Astypalea Tilos Rhodes Kos TURKEY Astypalea Tilos Ikaria ASTYPALEA

once attached. But once Tilos broke away, the elephants had no predators so didn’t need to be as large as their mainland ancestors so evolved a dwarf form.

For beaches, you’re spoilt for choice. Apart from Livadia’s siennared volcanic sand, they’re all shingle – but you’ll probably have them to yourself. “Skafi and Plaka beaches on the north coast are lovely, and you have to walk to reach them,” says Ian. “At Plaka you’ll find wild peacocks.” Wild campers gravitate to Eristos, with its extensive pinkygrey sand-and-shingle beach shaded by tamarisk trees. There’s

Skyros

a loo and shower to keep things clean, and a taverna if you want someone else to do the cooking.

Talking of food, I ask Ian what island specialities to try. “Many revolve around the goats which roam the island,” he says. “Tilos’ most famous dish is liver-stuffed goat baked in the oven. Also popular is giaprakia, cabbage or vine leaves stuffed with spiced meat (the name derives from the Turkish yaprak meaning leaf). Tilos makes its own pasta, koulouria, often served with tomato sauce or in a lasagna. Restaurants are family run and offer traditional home cooking, always based around the amazing

oil from our olive trees.”

Most restaurants are in Livadia. But for location (and just-caught fish) you can’t beat the fishing village of Agios Antonios on the island’s north coast, with its two tavernas. As you watch the sun setting behind neighbouring Nisyros, it’s a good place to reflect on how far this tiny island has come. How quickly others replicate Tilos’ pioneering steps towards self-sufficiency and sustainable tourism remains to be seen. But the island most of us have never heard of is certainly making waves.

Famous for its music, potters and painters, Skyros has an arty, slightly alternative, feel. You’ll find its artists’ wares for sale in the shops lining the pretty cobbled streets of Skyros Town. If you can, time your trip to join Skyros’s pagan preLenten carnival, when young men don goat masks, or its mid-July week-long Rembetika Music Festival when the island resounds to the melancholic sounds of the blues music that was brought to Greece by refugees from Asia Minor in the 1920s. Skyros is the largest of the Sporades so there’s plenty of space for nature lovers to enjoy its secret bays, rolling farmland and forests, all untouched by mass tourism. It even has its own (endangered) breed of horse.

Ikaria

Rocky Ikaria is often dubbed the island where people forget to die, on account of its inhabitants’ longevity. As a result it’s designated one of only five ‘blue zones’ in the world. Could the islanders’ secret be their healthy diet, including locally caught lobster and island-made wine? Their pristine island environment with its beaches, forested gorges and rocky moonscapes, all great for hiking? Or their geographical isolation in the northeast Aegean, which historically has led to Ikaria being a refuge for pirates and exiles? Who knows, but off-beat Ikaria is a delight. Still difficult to get to, and untouched by mass tourism, this long and skinny island amply rewards those who make the effort to reach its dramatic shores.

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Skyros GREECE Alonissos Rhodes Kos TURKEY Astypalea Tilos Ikaria SKYROS IKARIA

5 ways to ENJOY FIJI

RIDE THE RIVER

Sigatoka, on the gateway island of Viti Levu, is the best place for adventure activities including zip lining, cycling along railway tracks and hiking in majestic coastal sand dunes that rise up to 60 metres. Don’t miss the half-day Sigatoka River Safari, which combines a thrilling jet boat ride (including several 360-degree spins) with lunch and dancing in a traditional riverside village. The welcome is heartfelt and offers insights into how the evercheerful Fijians have retained an enviable sense of community, with part of the tour price going towards local projects.

with the right support anything is possible

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With an exuberant culture, idyllic beaches and superb snorkelling and diving, this balmy South Pacific island country is worth a visit
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SNORKEL WITH MANTAS

The Yasawa Islands are a dramatic run of craggy volcanic isles north west of Viti Levu reached via high-speed catamaran from Port Denarau. Here small beach resorts cater to couples and families keen to relax beside warm, clear waters pulsating with colourful fish and coral. At Paradise Cove Resort on Naukacuvu sensational snorkelling lies steps away from your villa, while over 30 dive sites are within a 30-minute boat ride. Reef sharks and turtles are often spied while manta rays pass through from June to October.

DISCOVER LEVUKA

Fiji’s sole World Heritage Site lies on super-scenic Ovalau where this trading port was the nation’s capital until 1881. It’s an atmospheric, time-stopped place with colonial-era churches and wood-fronted stores reminiscent of the set for a Wild West movie. Visit on a day trip by ferry from Natovi Landing, 90 minutes drive north of the modern capital, Suva. Here, the newly-renovated Fiji Museum presents a rich array of historical artefacts and the nearby Grand Pacific Hotel, modelled on its 1914 original, has a period charm with wicker chairs and vintage ceiling fans.

TRY SOME KAVA

A muddy-looking non-alcoholic drink made from the pounded roots of the pepper plant, kava is central to the Fijian lifestyle and many resorts stage tasting ceremonies along with a spirited meke (traditional dance) and food slow-cooked in a lovo, an underground oven sealed with coconut fronds. Dishes to try include ceviche-like kokoda and palusami (taro leaves with coconut cream) while Fiji’s vibrant Indian community means you’re never far from a tasty curry. Other treats include fresh fish, mud crabs and tropical fruits including papaya, pineapple and mango.

SPA HEAVEN

Forget welcome drinks – at the conservation-focused Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort on Vanua Levua arriving guests are treated to a reviving, ten-minute foot massage. Fijian spa treatments often feature coconut oil, island sugar and tropical plants while the Bobo massage is a speciality, based on the floor with the therapist using feet, forearms and hands to banish stress. There are stand-out spas at Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort on Viti Levu, with panoramic views along the coast, and Koro Sun Resort on Vanua Levu where treatment rooms lie hidden in the rainforest.

MAKE A DIFFERENCE WITH SUSSEX CANCER FUND

We work together with the NHS to help make life better for cancer patients in Sussex providing equipment and services that make a tangible difference for patients who are often on a difficult and stressful journey

We also selectively fund and enable Sussex-based cancer research programs that contribute to the understanding of cancers and improved outcomes for patients.

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Seven nights from £2,645pp

(Subject to availability)

Find out more and book at offers.charitable.travel/weeklyoffers/luxury-st-lucia

ZOËTRY MARIGOT BAY ST. LUCIA

Perched atop a quiet hillside and with panoramic marina views lies Zoëtry Marigot Bay St. Lucia – a secluded, opulent tropical paradise. This boutique resort is exclusively located on the island’s most desirable marina, Marigot Bay Yacht Haven, and is just one hour from Hewanorra International Airport. Complete with swaying palm trees, anchored yachts, and a nearby volcanic white-sand beach, Zoëtry Marigot Bay offers both tranquility and easy access to St. Lucia’s top attractions, including the nearby Pitons.

A stay in one of its 124 spacious, Caribbean-chic suites is accompanied by warm hospitality, pampering amenities and devoted service with Endless Privileges® where everything is included. Explore the on-site Rum Cave, offering local tastings with connoisseurs, relax at the world-class spa or glistening pools, and immerse yourself in the unspoiled beauty, romance and authenticity of Zoëtry Marigot Bay.

Endless Privileges® for the discerning traveller

124 suites and residences

Two swimming pools

Seven dining options

Four bars

24-hour private in-suite dining

Welcome bottle of St. Lucian rum

Luxury bed and bath linens

Luxurious Bvlgari® bath amenities

The Zoëtry Spa with Natura Bissé products

A 20-minute wellness experience

Enriching activities

Yoga

Meditation

Couples massage demonstration

Cooking lessons

Rum tasting

Afternoon tea

Creole lessons

Coconut experience class

Signature cocktail class

Private water ferry to beach

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A location like no other

From his favourite places to new initiatives, Charitable Traveller speaks to Zoëtry Marigot Bay’s director of sales, Alisteer Nelson, about what makes the hotel so special

What attracted you to joining Zoëtry Marigot Bay?

AN I’ve been with this gem of a property for two years and was grasped by its uniqueness. Being situated on a marina yet tucked away in the hills really makes Zoëtry Marigot Bay stand out. The lushness, wooden architecture, flora and fauna all stimulate a sense of Zen and make it a sought-after fairy tale.

History and heritage is a big part of Zoëtry Marigot Bay – what does that mean for you personally?

As a Jamaican moving to St. Lucia, I have personally experienced the island’s rich history and culture, which is deeply rooted in the resort through its bespoke experiences. For example, the Cooking Class is one that awakens your tastebuds to the flavours of the island’s local dishes. Or learn about the nostalgic stories of our founding father’s journey, Walter Boudreau – the mast of his boat is at the entrance of our fine dining restaurant 1461.

How does that history and heritage impact the guests?

Each guest travels to feel a sense of purpose and to understand the heritage and culture of the destination. Bringing the experiences of the past to the present leaves a mark on our clients as they relive days gone by – imagine, for example, indulging in an Indigenous Spa Treatment in a spa cabin that resembles an abode of our ancestors; this experience will forever be etched in the minds of our guests.

Zoëtry is committed to preserving the environment – can you give some examples of what that looks like for your guests?

A palatable adventure greets all our guests here

at the resort. Our executive chef (a native of France) uses the freshest farm produce and practises the farm-to-table concept, starting with the organic herb garden on site. Irrigation is carefully managed through recycling and contributes significantly to the hotel’s ecological tapestry, which guests can enjoy on daily botanical walks.

What plans and developments are on the horizon for Zoëtry?

Nestled in nature on a marina, Zoëtry Marigot Bay is rich in culture and has diverse offerings to make it unique and etch it in the memories of our guests. Through our relaxation journey, each guest returns home with a balanced state of being, and the resort is currently focusing on its in-suite chef’s table dining experiences and locale beach experience, which involve a beach concierge service, dedicated beach relaxation services, and a mix and mingle atmosphere at DoLittles restaurant and bar, named after the 1967 Doctor Dolittle film shot in the bay. Plus, the resort continues to develop its curated offerings, and spa and nature lovers can look forward to two new experiences opening this autumn featuring the Sulphur Springs in Soufrière.

Lastly, where’s your favourite part of the hotel, and why?  The Hurricane Hole is my happy place. Down on the water’s edge, the bar offers the most relaxing atmosphere as you dine with a view of the tranquil Caribbean waters.

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SEEK NATURE find nurture

Noosa National Park, Queensland, Australia

STAY

Seek out eco accommodation and off-grid stays in Noosa. There’s no shortage of eco retreats, green holiday homes, glamping or camping under the stars. Think deeper about where you sleep.

EAT & DRINK

Sourcing local produce isn’t a trend here, it’s a way of life, with many of the region’s top restaurants pulling ingredients from their own farms or working closely with high-quality growers from the ocean to the hinterland.

SEE & DO

Noosa’s biggest drawcard is its natural assets. Cruise down the Noosa Everglades, surf in a World Surfing Reserve, watch the sunset from an electric boat or mountain bike the Noosa Biosphere Trail Network, and holiday sustainably in Noosa.

WWW.CHARITABLE.TRAVEL/NOOSA

WHY I donate...

I’ve always wanted to do a marathon, but I’d find endless excuses not to. My late husband, Ben, would tease me for calling myself a runner, joking that I wasn’t a proper runner if I hadn’t run a marathon.

Ben suddenly died in May 2022 and I was thinking about how to mark the anniversary. I didn’t want to sit around and be miserable, but doing any sort of celebration felt weird, so I said to myself if I can find a marathon that’s on the date of his death, and is flat (I don’t do hills), I’ll do it. I’d run out of excuses.

Looking online that night I came across the Marathon de la Loire in France and I just knew it was the right thing to do. Ben and I had got married in France 13 years earlier, he’d studied French at Leeds University, and runners got a bottle of French fizz in their race packs (Ben and I loved

French wine) – the stars had aligned.

I signed up immediately and started training. I found running therapeutic to help deal with all the grief and I signed up thinking I wouldn’t fundraise, I just needed to do something for me. But Widowed & Young (WAY) had been so supportive since Ben’s death that when they asked me to fundraise, I couldn’t say no.

We’d been living in Dubai when Ben died. He was 39, working as a primary school teacher and affectionately known as the BFG – he was 6ft 6, and made everyone look tiny. He was so fit and healthy, he’d run a half marathon in February that year. But one morning, while I was playing in the pool with our two daughters, he simply collapsed with a heart attack. He was rushed to hospital but he died later that day. We found out he’d had myocarditis, and his heart was just too poorly to cope.

It was a complete shock – we’d had a babysitter booked for that evening! Friends rallied round and my mum was with us within 12 hours, but we moved back to Cambridgeshire within a week as I just didn’t want

to be there anymore.

Our daughters were two and six when Ben died, and so we’ve been rebuilding our lives without him. My mum mentioned WAY quite early on, but I wasn’t interested – I didn’t want to be in some sort of club with other sad people, then my GP mentioned the charity a few months later too and I was ready to sign up.

WAY provides a fabulous community of people who’ve been through what you’ve been through. I’m incredibly lucky to have wonderful parents and friends who have done so much for me but none of them understand this and I can’t expect them to. Thank goodness they don’t understand, I wouldn’t wish this on anyone. With WAY, there’s something about being able to reach out and talk to people where you’re not ‘the different one’, you’re not ‘the sad one’, and that’s really important.

Providing support

WAY is the only national charity for people aged 50 and under when their partner dies charitable.travel/widowed-and-young/

I trained for 16 weeks ahead of the marathon, and we – my mum, sister and my daughters – made our weekend in France really special. I felt very close to Ben and I know he would have loved it. The whole trip felt like a celebration of Ben, and of the fact that our girls are happy and we’re going to be okay.

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Widowed at the age of 36, Chantal Beeston needed to find a way to rebuild her life for herself and her young family. Running and supporting Widowed & Young provided just that

Exploring Essen’s OUTDOOR CHARM

Founder of Access the Dales, Cabinet Office ambassador for accessibility to the countryside and wheelchair user Debbie North spends a lot of time in the great outdoors. So how would she fare in the post-industrial German city of Essen?

As a wheelchair user, I am always nervous about going to new places and travelling abroad as I never really know what the accessibility is going to be like. Will my needs be met? Will I be able to get around safely on wheels?

I love to travel and see new places, but I must do a lot of research ahead of my visit for me to go independently. Top of my worry list is the transport, shortly followed by the accommodation. And finding this information is not always straightforward. Alongside this, being in a city is not my idea of pleasure. I want green spaces and nature. So when it was suggested I take a city break in Essen, in the Ruhr region of Germany, I was somewhat sceptical… How

can this city, rich in industrial heritage, promote itself as one of the greenest cities in Germany? And why would I want to spend time there?

After staying for a few days, I’m happy to say my preconceptions were unfounded. The flight to Düsseldorf airport from Manchester was smooth, and I was assisted on and off the aeroplane, to luggage collection and through to where a taxi took me to my hotel. The hotel was delightful. The Atlantic Congress, slightly out of the city centre, was wheelchair friendly, with lifts to every floor and easy access to all public areas in the hotel. My accessible room was a suite, with a wonderfully large bathroom. But the best bit of the hotel? Its location,

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GRUGAPARK THE ZOLLVEREIN COMPLEX

next to the Grugapark. Known as the ‘Green Lung’ of Essen, I spent a pleasant morning rambling through its botanical gardens and open-air sculpture exhibition. With easy wheelchair access to all the park, including a lake, meadows and plenty of wildlife, my first day was a success.

The next day, I took the Stadtbahn (metro) to the city centre. Knowing the London Underground, I was nervous. But the Stadtbahn was so easy to navigate and there were plenty of English-speaking staff to help me on and off the train that I ended up using it several times. At some stations, I needed a ramp between the station platform and train, but at others it was level.

I headed for the Zollverein Coal Mine Industrial Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After the mine’s closure in 1986, it was converted into an educational

and recreational centre that promotes sustainable development in the city. More importantly for me however, was being able to explore a section of the 260 kilometres of cycle paths that were built on the former railway lines where coal and steel were transported. The solid, level tracks around the site were perfect for the wheelchair and it was a great way to explore the green spaces that have been created on the site of the former colliery.

My final day in Essen was spent south of the city, along the shore of Lake Baldeney. An artificial reservoir built on the Ruhr 90 years ago, the cycle trail running alongside it was easy to explore in my wheelchair.

Essen opened my eyes to the possibilities of sustainable development, and from lush green spaces to extensive cycling paths and picturesque hiking trails, it’s a surprising outdoor enthusiast’s paradise.

For wheelchair users visiting Essen, plan your time as there is so much to do and see in this flat and easy to get around city. There are accessible taxis and don’t forget to ask the hotel staff for help – I found they had a wealth of knowledge and experience to share.

To find out more about Debbie’s charity, visit access-the-dales.com

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The solid, level tracks around the site were perfect for the wheelchair and it was great to explore the green spaces that have been created on the former colliery
LAKE BALDENEY

Top ten RESPONSIBLE HOTELS in the Balearics

Surrounded by so much effortless beauty, these hotels not only capture the essence of today’s Balearics but are doing all they can to preserve that soul for the future, too

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GECKO HOTEL & BEACH CLUB, FORMENTERA

Formentera is known as the Balearic Riviera. Seen as one of the last spots of remote paradise in the Mediterranean, on this beautiful and protected island sits the Gecko Hotel & Beach Club, created for like-minded individuals to unwind, connect with themselves and nature, and above all celebrate life. As well as impeccably taking care of their guests, the owners care for the island, working with local suppliers to reduce gas emissions, creating jobs and supporting the Save Posidonia Project, which raises funds for the conservation and regeneration of the sea beds that provide the Med with its beautiful turquoise colour. For each contribution made by their guests, they double it.

PURE HOUSE, IBIZA

Set on a 12-hectare private estate, Pure House Ibiza is a small slice of island paradise, created harmoniously with its natural surrounds. The daily soundtrack is the sweet sounds of tree tops rustling and birds singing and yet the buzz of Ibiza town, the vibrancy of the island’s most beautiful beaches and the fun of the most-loved cosmopolitan beach clubs is just a few kilometres away. Awarded Agroturismo status in 2015 thanks to its fragrant orange groves, functional olive trees and bountiful apricot, mango and fig trees, the Pure House’s land is attentively farmed and all the fruit and vegetables that arrive on your plate are organic.

FAUSTINO GRAN HOTEL, MENORCA

Created in a 16th century palace in the historic centre of Ciutadella (Menorca’s other port city), Faustino Gran offers more than simply a grandiose hotel. Hidden gardens bloom behind its high white-washed walls, but guests also have access to two other historic mansions, a rural country club and a trio of boats to explore the coast. The highlight is Casa de Pau in the middle of a Biosphere Reserve, from where ingredients for a healthy and delicious vegetarian meal are presented on your plate within minutes of leaving the ground.

MENORCA EXPERIMENTAL, MENORCA

Built with the gracious old bones of a 19th century finca set on 30 hectares of land, Menorca

Experimental is designed in the spirit of an artist’s holiday cottage and carefully blends into the natural beauty of its surroundings. Guests staying in its nine private villas or hotel bedrooms are encouraged to support local businesses, with a range of family-friendly activities on offer, including cooking paella, learning to be a horse trainer, and going on a archaeological adventure.

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TORRALBENC, MENORCA

Beautifully converted from a traditional Menorcan finca into a luxury boutique hotel, Torralbenc Menorca stands on a small hill, close to the village of Alaior on the south coast and surrounded by farmland and vineyards. From its cluster of white-washed farm buildings there are views across to the Med, and this tranquil, rural retreat has retained its heritage charm with guest rooms furnished with local materials. The rustic restaurant, transformed from a former storeroom for grapes and wine barrels, has a menu of locally sourced ingredients and during warm summer evenings dinner can be enjoyed al fresco under the pergola on the terrace, or in the delightful garden.

NOBU

HOTEL IBIZA BAY, IBIZA

At Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay they don’t take for granted the privilege of calling this beautiful island their home. They’re building a sustainable and inclusive culture, fully integrated with the local community with fulfilling jobs where people feel appreciated. Rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows and open terraces so guests wake to the scent of wild jasmine and fall asleep to the sound of the waves. With a whole range of activities that can be arranged from e-bikes to hiking, sunrise kayak tours to tapas walking tours of the Old Town, there is plenty to immerse you in the beauty and culture of Ibiza.

Whether

Wherever

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you’re dreaming of a silky beach on a private island, a stylish hotel in a vibrant city or a jungle trek to spy exotic wildlife, Charitable Travel Luxury will help you plan your ideal holiday and donate 5% of the price to a UK charity of your choice at no extra cost.
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it is, a luxury holiday always centres on discovering unique destinations and enjoying authentic experiences. With over 25 years’ experience in luxury travel and Charitable Travel’s #TravelForGood ethos at heart, our expert
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VILLA LE BLANC BY GRAN MELIÁ, MENORCA

Alongside the sea and just a few steps away from Santo Tomás Beach, Villa Le Blanc by Gran Meliá is a highly energy efficient and environmentally responsible hotel (the brand’s first carbon neutral hotel). Near all the top cultural attractions and coves with crystal-clear waters, the hotel reflects the traditions of local architecture – abundant natural light floods its spaces through large arches and the white stone construction allows it to blend perfectly with its natural environment.

IBEROSTAR SELECTION JARDÍN DEL SOL SUITES, MALLORCA

At this adults-only hotel every guest room is a suite with sea views. Located in a peaceful area of Santa Ponsa Bay on the Mediterranean shore, the ambiance affords a relaxing and romantic stay as you gaze over the Costa de la Calma from your terrace and enjoy bay views over dinner. All the restaurant food is sourced locally, and Iberostar supports responsible fishing as well as other sustainable initiatives. Guests can also enjoy cooking workshops, hiking along the coast with expert local guides, and bike tours with Philipps Bike Team, Mallorca’s premium bike rental company.

AGUAS DE IBIZA, IBIZA

Recognised as the most environmentally friendly boutique hotel in Ibiza, Aguas de Ibiza is a smart building with automated systems for saving water and energy, and advocates working with suppliers that share its eco-luxury philosophy. Designed under Feng Shui principles, the interiors feature natural elements and its restaurants combine a mix of classic Mediterranean ingredients with avant-garde cuisine.

SON BUNYOLA, MALLORCA

It’s taken over 20 years to get the planning permissions to meticulously restore and convert this stunning 16th century historic finca on the 1,300-acre Son Bunyola estate into a small luxury boutique hotel and it now joins the three existing beautiful villas within the grounds. Set in Mallorca’s Tramuntana mountains, each of the 26 beautifully designed rooms and suites have their own unique character, charm, and soaring views. Much of the produce served in the two restaurants is grown in the estate’s gardens and orchards, and there is an abundance of activities to enjoy from hiking, cycling and sailing to art and photography classes, and even a perfume workshop to create your own scent to remind you of your stay for years to come.

CHARITABLE TRAVELLER 57 BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288 CHARITABLE.TRAVEL Luxury top ten

5 charities

SUPPORTING, PROTECTING AND OPENING UP THE OUTDOORS

SNOW CAMP

Since 2003, Snow Camp has been harnessing the power of skiing and snowboarding to break down barriers, broaden horizons and address the biggest social issues facing young people today. Through its award-winning 12-month snowsports journey delivered at artificial slopes and in the mountains, young people gain invaluable life skills, qualifications and positive vocational opportunities in the snowsports industry and beyond. Now, in Snow Camp’s 20th anniversary year, there’s never been a better time to get involved and support its life-changing work. charitable.travel/ snow-camp/

SUPPORT FOR LIFE, FOR ADULTS WHO LIVE WITH ENDURING MENTAL HEALTH CHALLENGES.

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Here are just a few of the charities working to help protect the delicate mountain environment, improve access to the great outdoors, and encourage as many people as possible to make the most of spending time in awe-inspiring nature

POW UK

Protect Our Winters helps passionate outdoor people protect the places and lifestyles they love from climate change, turning outdoor enthusiasts into climate advocates. Set up by pro snowboarder Jeremy Jones in 2007 in the USA, there are now 14 branches globally and the POW UK community is loud, energetic and insistent in its drive to influence climate policy. Both businesses and individuals can get involved, and the charity encourages its supporters to put pressure on policymakers and influence systemic change. protectourwinters.uk

MIND OVER MOUNTAINS

Offering professional mental health support, Mind Over Mountains (MOM) brings together walking in nature, mindfulness and time with the charity’s experienced coaches and counsellors in an unhurried, unpressurised setting outdoors. For anyone feeling the need to escape into nature, MOM provides a range of options, from one-day hill walks to weekend retreats, in some of the UK’s most special places, and can provide bursaries for those who need them. MOM believes that time in nature, coupled with professional support, is a powerful way to build resilience, talk without pressure and re-find stillness. mindovermountains.org.uk

THE EUROPEAN NATURE TRUST

Dedicated to the protection and restoration of wild areas in Europe, The European Nature Trust’s (TENT) mission is to ensure that Europe’s rich biodiversity is preserved for future generations. Established by Paul Lister in 2000, it focuses on environmental and educational projects in Scotland and Romania, but is expanding its remit and impact across Europe through travel, film and events. Its flagship project is the Alladale Wilderness Reserve in the heart of the Scottish Highlands, a pioneering re-wilding and ecotourism initiative. theeuropeannaturetrust.com

LEAVE NO TRACE

Using pioneering science and providing proven, research-based solutions to the protection of the natural world, Leave No Trace is a US-based non-profit that delivers innovative education, skills, research and science to help people care for the outdoors. It focuses on educating people – rather than costly restoration programmes or access restrictions – as the most effective and least resource-intensive solution to protecting the wild open spaces and national parks, not just in the USA but in several countries around the world too. charitable.travel/leave-no-trace

GIVING everyone a chance

Founder &

of Fair Shot, Bianca

Creating opportunities

WHAT IS FAIR SHOT?

Fair Shot is a café with a conscience, and we exist to combat the 95% unemployment rate among young adults with learning disabilities in the UK. We do that by running our 11-month long in-house training programme at Fair Shot, our café in Covent Garden, London, and having our in-house employment programme, where we make sure our graduates land sustainable and paid jobs.

WHERE DID THE IDEA COME FROM THEN?

It’s been a dream of mine ever since I was young. Through my local church in Fulham, I grew up with people with learning disabilities who were part of our community group and ever since I was three, I’d spend my weekends with them. Together with a guy called Zachistic, I came up with an idealised version of Fair Shot and it’s stuck with me ever since. When I was 23 I started working on it and it took three

or four years to develop, then we officially opened our first café in December 2021. After a year we had to move because that area was being regenerated, so we moved to our current site in February 2023.

1 0 0 % o f o u

WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR YOU TO BE A SOCIAL ENTERPRISE?

It’s to be a part of something that has a bigger purpose, and we’re making a worthwhile contribution in trying to solve society’s problems in our own

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CEO
Tavella, tells us about her café that provides people with learning difficulties a chance to have a career
Fair Shot is a café in London’s Covent Garden that gives adults with learning disabilities the chance to have a fulfilling career in the hospitality industry fairshot.co.uk Not-For-Profit Cafe
ni g

way. Having a clear social purpose makes up for this being quite a hard job, as we feel like we’re doing something for the greater good.

WHAT IMPACT DO YOU HAVE?

Every year we have a cohort of 12 trainees (increasing to 15 from September), and we’ll get 90 per cent of them into sustainable paid employment. But the bigger impact is that we get these 12 adults –who have been marginalised their whole life and been told they won’t amount to anything – to feel like they matter and that they do have potential. Our impact comes in many shapes and forms but it’s essentially a massive improvement in their mental health, in their confidence and in their independence that makes them feel like they’re contributing to society.

For example, one of our graduates is completely nonverbal, communicating only one-to-one via an iPad, and her parents thought she’d never have a job. But she came for interview and I could tell she was understanding everything. She picked up the skills really quickly and within two months, was able to work three coffee stations at once, completely thrashing everyone else, and is basically a powerhouse. She’s now working at a café down the road and the team love her, they value her and she works on the coffee machine all day. She doesn’t get

bored, she’s super energetic and she absolutely loves being busy. Without Fair Shot, she would have just been at home doing very little, and I’m so glad we’ve been able to open up her world.

WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES YOU FACE?

There are a couple of main things. Firstly, the hospitality industry has a bad rap for not appreciating the people who work in it, and for what they can bring. I’d like to see a change in hearts and minds, and for people to recognise that there are other people from other walks of life that are equally valid, and it’s our responsibility to welcome them.

Secondly, I’d like attitudes about employment opportunities for people with learning disabilities

to change. We’re showing that, given the chance, these people can have fulfilling employment, and I think the number one thing to combat this stigma is for us to not be scared to ask questions, don’t be scared to say the wrong thing. Come and have a coffee at Fair Shot and see for yourself the change we’re bringing about.

LASTLY, WHAT’S NEXT FOR FAIR SHOT?

The biggest hurdle for us right now is that our impact model works really well but what we’re trying to understand is how our financial model can be more sustainable so we can break even and, in the future, expand. The need is clearly there, and I feel that I have a responsibility to roll this out to other parts of London and the UK.

CHARITABLE TRAVELLER 61 BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288 CHARITABLE.TRAVEL
revocsiD erom g r e a t causes at charitabl e .t r leva

A day in THE LIFE OF...

Cormac Whelan is programme director at Snow Camp. He oversees its 12-month programme, managing approximately 1,000 young people, and coordinating the training programme, both on the slopes in four UK snow domes and in Andorra, and off the slopes with industry partners and well-being specialists

My day to day job varies, depending on the time of year. Our programme is a personal development programme for young people that uses snowsports as a tool to open their minds and change their perspectives, and there are different stages throughout the year.

Now, in August, we’re in the middle of First Tracks, our start of the year summer programme that engages with about 1,000 young people across the UK.

Snow Camp harnesses the power of skiing and snowboarding to break down barriers, broaden horizons and raise aspirations for young people across the UK charitable.travel/snow-camp

A large part of my role is supporting the programme managers to find and build relationships with community charities, CICs and grassroots projects to ensure we’re reaching the right people. We’re looking to connect with young people who’ve perhaps realised that school isn’t for them, or that life in general is not going very well, and they need something extra. Interestingly, a lot of young people who join our programme aren’t even into sports, then all of a sudden snowsports becomes their thing and they’re hooked.

I think one of the major benefits of snowsports is that failing – and learning to deal with it – is a huge part. You’re going to fall flat on your face, everyone does, and that’s fine. But that can throw up a lot of emotions and that’s where our well-being managers come in.

Our programmes take place at four indoor snow dome centres across the UK and I love the days I spend at those – it’s like a huge, really supportive youth club on snow, with many of the young people who’ve previously been with us returning to help, and the camaraderie and friendships just keep on growing. The atmosphere helps them face their failures – we provide them with the space to be vulnerable, and to be supported by their peers. Plus,

young people who’ve had tough upbringings tend to have to grow up quickly, so we provide a safe space for them to be young again, to connect with something new, and to hopefully fall in love with it. As the year progresses, our programme evolves and my job changes. Through our partners in the ski industry, we provide opportunities for our apprentices to get a taste of what their future could be like, perhaps working as a chalet host, ski instructor or nanny, and give them some in-themountains, on-the-ground experience. Alongside this I’m preparing for our end-ofseason residential in Andorra, where we take 80 to 100 young people out to the mountains for a ski trip. I’m so proud of the fact that seven out of 10 apprentices went on to work in the snowsports industry.

The hardest thing...

Is having to say no to the young people that want to continue their journey with us. We only have limited places – starting with 1,000, then bringing that down to 300 and finally 100, and it’s really tough deciding who’s going to get the most out of it.

The best bit...

Is seeing the change in a young person’s life from when they started with us – simply by us creating a positive environment for them.

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eroM erg a t causes at charitable .t r a v e l

STICK ’N’ STEP in numbers

Stick ‘n’ Step enables, inspires, and supports children with cerebral palsy (CP) and their families through the provision of free weekly conductive education (CE) sessions. The charity’s sessions are delivered by highly skilled professionals from its specialist centres in Wallasey and Runcorn and are designed to help each child reach their personal potential in terms of mobility, confidence, and independence.

100%

OF FAMILIES SAID STICK ’N’ STEP HAS A POSITIVE IMPACT ON THEIR CHILD’S SELF-CONFIDENCE

89% OF FAMILIES FELT THEIR CHILD IS MORE MOBILE AS A RESULT OF COMING TO STICK ’N’ STEP

1 IN 400 BABIES ARE ESTIMATED TO BE BORN EVERY YEAR IN THE UK WITH SOME FORM OF CP

GROUP SESSIONS ARE DELIVERED EACH WEEK 22

Cerebral palsy is the name for a group of lifelong conditions that affect movement and co-ordination. It’s caused by a problem with the brain that develops before, during or soon after birth, and is the most common motor disability in childhood.

100+ CHILDREN EVERY WEEK ACROSS NORTHWEST ENGLAND

ARE SUPPORTED

£7,000

IS THE COST OF EACH CHILD’S PLACE PER YEAR

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Book a holiday with a difference with Charitable Travel

Whether you’re longing for a beach break to build amazing memories with your family, a romantic escape with your loved one, or want to don your backpack and venture back into the great unknown, our team of travel experts can help you plan and book the holiday you deserve.

Plus, when you book with Charitable Travel you can donate 5% of your holiday cost to a charity of your choice… completely free!

charitable.travel / 020 3092 1288 / bookings@charitable.travel Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, Kent BR1 1LW ALL PACKAGE HOLIDAYS ARE ATOL AND TRUST PROTECTED. Book with confidence #TRAVELFORGOOD WITH CHARITABLE TRAVEL 2023
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STICK ’N’ STEP in numbers

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page 63

A day in THE LIFE OF...

2min
page 62

Creating opportunities

2min
pages 60-61

5 charities

2min
pages 58-59

Top ten RESPONSIBLE HOTELS in the Balearics

4min
pages 54-57

Exploring Essen’s OUTDOOR CHARM

2min
pages 52-53

WHY I donate...

2min
page 51

SEEK NATURE find nurture

0
page 50

A location like no other

2min
page 49

5 ways to ENJOY FIJI

1min
pages 46-47

FOUR MORE green Greek islands

3min
pages 44-45

IS TILOS Greece’s island?greenest

4min
pages 41-44

Postcard from THE TORONTO ISLANDS

0
pages 39-41

Get to know FORT LAUDERDALE

3min
pages 36-39

EXPLORE Gran Canaria

0
page 35

Crystal River

0
page 35

Into the wild

2min
page 34

Searching for the soul

2min
page 32

Help Alex TLC support people affected by

1min
pages 30-31

A northern star

1min
pages 29-30

A TALE OF two times

2min
pages 26-28

And another thing...

1min
page 25

Get to know BELIZE

1min
page 24

Properly wild

0
page 22

Gentle giants

2min
pages 20-22

Mighty rays

0
pages 18, 20

Finding Nemo

0
page 18

10Conservation holidays AROUND THE WORLD

1min
pages 17-18

HOW TO BE A green traveller

2min
pages 15-16

LONELY PLANET FOOD’S Gourmet Trails OF EUROPE

1min
page 14

ARMCHAIR travel time

0
page 13

GRAB LIFE BELIZE

1min
pages 12-13

GLOBAL good news

1min
pages 9-10

CLOSER THAN YOU THINK YOUR BAHAMAS GETAWAY

0
pages 6-9

GET THE picture

0
pages 4-6

Make a CHOICE

1min
pages 2-3
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