50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful
50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaning May/June 2022 ISSUE 10
Somewhere, beyond the sea Tear yourself away from the Caribbean's beaches to discover wild jungles, vibrant towns, exotic cuisine and unique cultures
AN ALTERNATIVE ALGARVE Walk the Fisherman's Way to discover an unspoilt coast
HOW TO HELP UKRAINE
Five charities working to help those who need it most
AMAZING RAIL JOURNEYS All aboard for 12 epic train journeys across the world
perfect TEN
FROM THE EDITOR
Laur Gelder
Welcome to our tenth issue! It’s been a rollercoaster ride since we launched in the midst of the pandemic in August 2020, but our mission remains the same: to inspire you to book life-affirming holidays and travel for good with Charitable Travel, and in doing so support amazing charities doing vital work around the world. Talking of amazing charities, on page 27 you’ll find details of five that are battling to contain the humanitarian crisis still unfolding in Ukraine. This unjust war has been raging for two months now and continues to horrify the world, although the Ukrainian people’s incredible resilience and defiance in the face of Putin’s tyranny also inspires hope for humanity. Turn to page four to read some more personal thoughts on this from our publisher, who has visited Kyiv.
The Ukrainian people’s incredible resilience and defiance in the face of Putin’s tyranny inspires hope for humanity This March I went skiing for the first time since 2020 and it was lovely to see the slopes and après bars full of smiling faces again. The snow is melting now and the slopes will soon be repurposed for hikers and bikers. I hope this summer heralds the rebirth of travel in all its forms. If you need travel inspiration, read on to discover 12 train journeys which offer epic views as well as being sustainable, a hidden path through the Algarve, a postcard from hip Tel Aviv and much more. Lastly, I’m proud to say that Charitable Travel’s #TravelForGood campaign has been shortlisted for the Travel Marketing Awards 2022. – let’s hope this helps this important message travel even further.
©CHARITABLE TRAVEL 2022. CHARITABLE TRAVELLER is part of CHARITABLE TRAVEL, Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, BR1 1LW, UK. Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes. T: 020 3092 1288 E: bookings@charitable.travel W: charitable.travel Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, CHARITABLE TRAVEL cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. FRONT COVER: istockphoto.com. ICONS: thenounproject.com & flaticon.com. CEO: Melissa Tilling; MARKETING: Rosie Buddell, Ally Ware & Adam Pedley; SALES: Ali Nicholls; MAGAZINE EDITOR: Laura Gelder; MAGAZINE DESIGNER: Claire Gates (clairegatesdesign@gmail.com)
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MAY/JUNE 2022
50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful
meaningful May/June 2022 50% travel, 50% charity, 100% ISSUE 10
Somewhere, beyond the sea Tear yourself away from the Caribbean's beaches to explore its wild jungle, colourful towns and much more
AN ALTERNATIVE ALGARVE Walk the Fisherman's Way to discover an unspoilt coast
4 9 10 23 27 31
SHOW LOVE FOR UKRAINE
Five charities you can support to help those who need it most
Get the picture Armchair travel Rail journeys: Amazing trains and epic sights Five hikes... In U.S. national parks Five charities... Helping Ukraine Why I donate: Derian House children’s hospice
AMAZING RAIL JOURNEYS All aboard for 12 epic train journeys across the world
32
INSIDE
this issue
In numbers: Marine conservation 34 Q&A: With Keji Moses from Goddess Hub 36 Portugal: A wild walk along the coast of the Algarve 40 A day in the life of... Crystal from Hammersley Homes 42 48 hours in... Leeds 44 Four views of... Western Australia
45 Postcard from: Tel Aviv 47 Postcard from: Tallinn 48 Get to know: The Amazon 50 Caribbean: Experience it beyond the beach 55 Opinion: Mark Bibby Jackson on Colombia 56 Top ten: Family holidays 60 Global good news
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GET THE
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A MESSAGE FROM THE PUBLISHER We’ve all spent the last two months watching, and being increasingly horrified, by Russia’s unprovoked attack on the people of Ukraine at the command of Vladimir Putin. I, like you I am sure, am full of questions, not least because I had the immense pleasure of visiting Kyiv on holiday in 2017 with a friend. We explored the capital’s grand streets, tasted the famous chicken and marvelled at its ornate churches – I’m standing next to St. Volodymyr’s Cathedral in the picture below and the main picture is St. Andrew’s church. But now I can’t help but wonder, what has happened to all the wonderful people I met there? Are they amongst the ten million refugees fleeing Ukraine, are they serving in the military and risking their lives, or are they casualties or fatalities of this unprovoked war? The humanitarian impact on Ukraine is devastating but we applaud the huge effort by our fellow Brits, and others around the world, in donating to great causes, hosting refugees, supplying provisions for Ukrainians in need, and much more. As publisher of Charitable Traveller magazine and founder of both Charitable Travel and the tourism support charity, Charitable Travel Fund, my thoughts also go to my colleagues in Ukraine’s once flourishing tourism industry, another victim of Putin’s agression. According to the World Bank, a pre-pandemic year high saw Ukraine receiving over fourteen million tourists, just like me, who visited to experience the hospitality, history and culture in places like Kyiv, Lviv, Chernobyl, Odesa, Kharkiv and Dnipro. I wonder what has happened to the hotel and restaurant staff, the tour guides, airport staff and tour operators. Sadly, we can’t travel to Ukraine to support its economy, but Charitable Travel allows you to support great causes with every holiday you book, creating a free donation equal to 5% of the price of your holiday. Please think of the people of Ukraine when you book your well-earned break and let’s all hope for an end to this evil invasion of a friendly nation.
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MALAYSIA IS OPEN! Experience Malaysian Hospitality on board Malaysia Airlines, flying twice daily from London to Kuala Lumpur.
Book now with Charitable Travel at charitable.travel/malaysia-airlines/ Twice daily service to resume from London - Kuala Lumpur on 30 June 2022. Other terms and conditions apply.
get the picture
The joys of spring
Spring is now in full swing across the northern hemisphere. In Japan, locals have already been admiring the delicate pink cherry blossoms which, to them, signal renewal and the fleeting nature of life. In mountain regions ranging from the Alps to the Rockies, rivers rush with snow melt and alpine meadows are coming alive with a kaleidoscope of wild flowers. In the UK we’ve had the cheery nod of daffodils and a bluebell blush carpets our woodlands along with fragrant wild garlic. What’s next? Daisies, blue cornflowers and red poppies will fill our meadows, pink thrift will spring up on coastal paths and purple foxgloves will appear in shady woods.
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get the picture
Protecting Venice
Day trippers to Venice will now be charged up to €10 (£8.30) to enter the historic city, after visitor numbers hit pre-pandemic levels over Easter. The city’s authorities have long debated such a measure but the busy weekend prompted them to take decisive action on the overtourism that has wreaked havoc on this fragile canal-crossed city. A booking system will be launched in June but there will be a six-month pilot before the scheme potentially takes full effect in January 2023. Those staying overnight will be exempt as they pay a tourist tax. There will also be a maximum of 40,000 to 50,000 visitors a day.
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WILD BABIES
Expect a heavy dose of cuteness with this new Netflix series from the producers of Life in Colour with David Attenborough. Narrated by Helena Bonham Carter, it follows the adventures of baby lions, elephants, penguins, pangolins and more, as they learn to navigate the highs and lows of life in the wild. Beautifully shot intimate films show young animals playing, learning to hunt for food from their parents and evading predators. Sit back and enjoy a window into the wild guided by Carter’s soothing voice.
TV
AFRICA IS NOT A COUNTRY: BREAKING STEREOTYPES OF MODERN AFRICA By Dipo Faloyin
This portrait of contemporary Africa challenges harmful stereotypes to tell a more comprehensive story. So often Africa is depicted simplistically as an arid landscape of famines and safaris, uniquely plagued by poverty and strife, but this funny and insightful book says otherwise. Faloyin looks at each country’s colonial heritage and chronicles a variety of subjects, from urban life in Lagos to the lively rivalry over who makes the best Jollof rice. Africa Is Not A Country celebrates the energy and fabric of the continent’s different cultures and communities.
Book
ARMCHAIR
travel time
The trials and tribulations of wild infant animals, a book about the real Africa, a slow travel guide to the Isle of Wight and a film about the King...
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ISLE OF WIGHT (SLOW TRAVEL) Bradt Travel Guides
Book
The latest in Bradt’s award-winning series of slow travel guides to UK regions (others include Suffolk, Dorset, Northumberland and Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly) covers the Isle of Wight. Written by author and journalist Mark Rowe, who has visited the island over 30 times since first spending childhood holidays there, it has all the practical information you could need along with descriptive detail, anecdote and insider tips. Rich in food producers, wildlife, natural beauty, history, archaeology and dramatic landscapes, the Isle of Wight has plenty to fill a guide book. Find out where to see red squirrels and why Jimi Hendrix had a love affair with the island.
ELVIS
Another epic biopic hits our silver screens this June, this one tackling Elvis. Directed by Baz Luhrmann, it stars the relatively unknown (outside of U.S. teen dramas) Austin Butler alongside Tom Hanks and Australian actress Olivia DeJonge. The movie was filmed in Australia, with Elvis’ Tennessee mansion Graceland specially recreated, but Luhrmann’s typically vivid cinematography and all-American scenes – such as one showing Elvis singing gospel – will whet your appetite for a trip to the U.S. The film follows the complicated 20year relationship Elvis had with his manager, Colonel Tom Parker (played by Hanks).
Film
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rail journeys
get back ON TRACK There was a time when rail was the only way to explore in comfort, now it's a sustainable choice rounds up as well as a stylish one. some of the world's most amazing train journeys
Laur Gelder
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ROCKY MOUNTAINEER, CANADA Cutting through some of the most striking scenery in the world, where cars don’t dare to go, the luxurious Rocky Mountaineer train is one of Canada’s most sought after experiences. The combination of rugged alpine scenery outdoors with the luxuriously-appointed carriages, attentive service and gourmet three-course meals inside is winning. The train only runs between sunrise and sunset to ensure you soak up views of snow-capped peaks and pristine lakes and forest – hopefully wildlife
too. Each evening you’ll disembark to spend the night in a hotel, with iconic options like the fairy tale Fairmont Banff Springs. There are four routes. The best known is probably the Vancouver to Banff journey, starting in coastal rainforest, crossing desert before stopping for the night in the riverside city of Kamloops, and then continuing into the Rockies. The newest route links Moab in Utah and Denver in Colorado, passing rusty canyons, following the Colorado River and stopping for a restorative dip at Glenwood Springs.
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rail journeys
2 THE CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR, USA Journey from Chicago to San Francisco in 51 hours, with two nights sleeping in a snug bunk bed. The sleek silver train slices through the plains of Nebraska to Omaha and onto Denver’s retro Union Station. After there, it hits the dramatic canyons of the Rockies enroute to Salt Lake City, before rushing through the painted deserts and arid hills and buttes of Utah, passing ritzy Reno and quaint Sacramento, and finally arriving in Emeryville near the Golden Gate City.
ROVOS RAIL, SOUTH AFRICA Step aboard vintage woodpanelled coaches, harking back to a more elegant era of travel, and be transported between some of Africa’s most fascinating places. Journeys range from 48 hours to 15 days, staying in five-star hotels and leaving plenty of time for safaris. The longest trip links Cape Town in South Africa to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania, via Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia. You’ll cross the mighty Zambezi River, negotiate the tunnels, switchbacks and viaducts of the Great Rift Valley and stop at the thundering Victoria Falls. But there’s plenty of time for wining and dining.
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DREAM DESTINATIONS BY RAIL WE’VE GOT YOU COVERED
Rail Experts We know the best routes, schedules, sightseeing, where to sit on the train and so much more. Simply said, we speak fluent train!
No Piecing it all together We package everything together, making your holiday planning that much easier!
Hotel Choice Select a 3, 4 and a 5 Star all on the same trip -The choice is yours!
Independent Travel Explore Europe and beyond independently in comfort and convenience by high-speed rail and overnight sleeper services.
Book up to two years in advance Now that everyone is travelling again, space is limited and prices are higher – with us you can book now for next summer and beyond to secure space and lock in the price!
Choice is yours From our suggested Best Sellers to customising your perfect trip from scratch we do it all. Sightseeing, hotels, train, flights, transfers and more, we take the complexity out of train travel.
GRAND VENICE, FLORENCE AND ROME
COTE D’AZUR: NICE AND CANNES
COAST TO COAST ACROSS THE USA
8 DAYS
7 DAYS
16 DAYS
£1,699
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FROM
FROM
PER PERSON
Geneva > Venice > Florence > Rome Discover the charms and landmarks of three Italian gems on one scenic holiday along the rails. Travel from London, spending a night in Geneva en route, and roll through the spectacular Alpine scenery of the Simplon Pass towards Italy. Sail down the canals of Venice with a gondola ride, unearth artistic masterpieces in Florence and gaze in awe at the Sistine Chapel’s ceiling in Rome.
FROM
PER PERSON
Nice > Cannes Explore the glamorous Côte d'Azur in the south of France with its glittering Mediterranean coastline. From beaches to boutiques, and the exclusive Principality of Monaco, the French Riviera is the perfect holiday destination. Spend three nights in Nice and three nights in Cannes, with train travel between the cities, and a day trip to Monaco.
PER PERSON
New York City > Washington > Chicago > Williams > Grand Canyon National Park > Los Angeles > San Francisco Experience the very best of America on this 16-day journey. Travel from the bright lights of New York to the Nation's Capital then on to Chicago's great architecture and eventually ending in the famous San Francisco Bay. Along the way, you will get to visit the Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world.
Charitable.travel/rail-bookers
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SEVEN STARS IN KYUSHU, JAPAN Exquisitely designed, this sleeper train is often called the most luxurious in the world. It goes a bit slower than Japan’s famous bullet trains, but you wont care as you relax in its ridiculously spacious polished wood cabins, with delicate paper screens and shiny brass lamps. As you cruise around Kyushu Island, renowned for its dramatic volcanic landscapes and hot springs, you can sip sparkling sake and nibble the contents of your delicately presented bento box.
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JACOBITE STEAM TRAIN, SCOTLAND The so-called ‘Harry Potter train’ really did provide the steam engine and carriages for the wizarding films. Its 84-mile route starts in Fort William, in the shadow of Ben Nevis, and travels to the west coast port of Mallaig and back. You’ll visit Britain’s most westerly mainland station, tiny Arisaig, and cross glassy lochs, silvery beaches, heather-smothered hills and the 21 arches of the majestic Glenfinnan Viaduct. The décor is comfortingly traditional, with tasselled lamps and winged chairs in first class.
Scotland’s glorious west coast facebook.com/PlantDewi
PLANT DEWI nurturing families and strengthening communities in the Diocese of St Davids Support us to support families
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Plant Dewi is a registered charity in England and Wales 244178
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© Sverre F. Hjørnevik
THE GHAN, AUSTRALIA Forging through Australia’s stunning but inhospitable red centre, the Ghan travels 1,851 miles between the southern city of Adelaide and Darwin in the tropical north. Over three to four days you’ll enjoy regionally-inspired meals and fine wines, along with experiences like dinner under the stars at a historic Telegraph Station, a cruise beneath the red cliffs of Nitmiluk Gorge and a visit to an opal mining town where people live underground.
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FLAM RAILWAY, NORWAY It might only be 12 miles long, but this train journey packs a punch when it comes to scenery. It’s one of the steepest standard gauge lines in the world and in one hour you’ll travel from sea level, at Aurlandsfjord in Flåm, to Myrdal mountain station, 867 metres above. From the comfort of a vintage carriage, you can enjoy the changing scenery – rivers cutting through deep ravines, waterfalls cascading down snow-capped peaks and mountain farms clinging to sheer slopes. From Myrdal you can also connect onto lines to Bergen or Oslo.
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HIRAM BINGHAM, PERU Named after the explorer who rediscovered Peru’s most famous Incan citadel, this train leaves from just outside the colourful city of Cusco in the Sacred Valley. You’ll roll sedately towards Machu Picchu in the comfort of a classic 1920s parlour car, gazing at the fertile Peruvian Highlands sweeping by. Along the way you’ll be treated to performances of traditional music, a welcome Pisco Sour cocktail and a gourmet brunch with South American wines. After you’ve marvelled at the lost city you can return in the fading light, enjoying another fine dining experience.
named after an explorer
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The Anne Frank Trust UK The Anne Frank Trust is an education charity that empowers 10 to 15 year-olds to challenge all forms of prejudice, inspired by the life and work of Anne Frank. Last year we worked with over 40,000 young people across the UK. Our vision is a world free from prejudice. With your help, we can build it. www.charitable.travel/anne-frank-trust/
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Cross Europe in style
VENICE SIMPLON ORIENT EXPRESS Perhaps the most famed train in the world, this Belmond-owned icon offers over 60 journeys, including ones from London to Vienna, Budapest, Prague, Verona or Venice, or the epic Paris to Istanbul route. As you hand your bag to a smartly dressed porter, you’ll feel like you’ve slipped back to a bygone age when rail was king and travel was always opulent. Onboard the art deco Pullman carriages you’re expected to dress smartly for the extravagant fourcourse dinner, served in the dining car. When you’re ready to retire to your cosy cabin, the clicking rails will lull you to sleep until you wake in a distant land.
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THE GLACIER EXPRESS, SWITZERLAND This train links two of Switzerland’s most renowned mountain resorts, St. Moritz and Zermatt, with its view of the crooked Matterhorn. Described as ‘Europe's slowest express’, it takes over seven hours to cover 180 miles. You won’t have a problem with the pace though, as you enjoy the dramatic alpine scenery, shimmying across narrow valleys, through 91 tunnels and over 291 bridges. Onboard is a choice of First, Second or Excellence Class, and the latter includes a seven-course lunch. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288
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Feature name
Free four-day breaks for unpaid carers in calm, tranquil surroundings at Kingham Cottage, near Bath. Paying guests are welcome too. In turn, they become donors to the charity.
Over 270 carer families have enjoyed the chance to rest before returning to their unpaid caring roles for their loved ones living with life-limiting conditions. Our beneficiaries tell us they feel less alone knowing there is a charity that cares for them as carers. Registrated charity: number: 1153922
www.afterumbrage.org.uk
"Without support, I would not have become who I am today."
With education, a child can break the cycle of poverty. 20
Sponsor a student today and help them reach for a brighter future. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288
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THE QINGHAI-TIBET TRAIN, CHINA This railway to the roof of the world is an engineering marvel and the world’s highest, reaching altitudes of over 5,000 metres and traversing a region prone to earthquakes, permafrost and low oxygen levels (cabins have it on tap). It starts from Xining, capital of Qinghai province, and ends in Lhasa, Tibet's mystical capital. Onboard it’s basic but the view makes up for that. The 1,200-mile trip takes 21 hours and passes the desolate Gobi Desert, the stark ice fields of Tanggula Glacier, the bright turquoise Namtso Lake and many yak-spotted grasslands and villages draped in fluttering prayer flags.
MAHARAJA’S EXPRESS, INDIA Railways rule in India so the Maharaja's Express must truly be the king of trains. Every carriage has a butler and the king-size beds – set in spacious cabins – are studded with jewels. Journeys range from four days to a week and stop in places like Mumbai, Udaipur, Agra and Delhi, for you to alight and explore exotic bazaars, gleaming palaces, vivid temples and tiger-filled jungles. The train has two fine dining restaurants, one with a hand-painted fresco ceiling, serving international food and Indian banquets. After dinner, you can retire to the Rajah Club bar to sip a whiskey in one of its large armchairs.
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© Aswin Krishna Poyil
rail journeys
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FOUR WAYS YOUR HOLIDAYS CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE We spoke to a selection of Charitable Travel's charity partners, to find out what your donations pay for when you book a holiday and donate 5% completely free with Charitable Travel
A £500 HOLIDAY GENERATES A £25 DONATION AND CAN PAY FOR:
10 packs of tampons to be delivered to a Bloody Good Period Partner, such as organisations supporting refugees and asylum-seekers, charities for the homeless, food banks, COVID Response community groups and more.
A £1,000 HOLIDAY GENERATES A £50 DONATION AND CAN PAY FOR:
A weeks' tuition or lodging for a student with Chris Fenner Fund who help save Zambia's wildlife by funding conservation education for local people. Without community involvement, the long-term future of wildlife in Zambia will never be secure.
A £2,000 HOLIDAY GENERATES A £100 DONATION AND CAN PAY FOR:
A full year of nutritious meals for a child at a link school in Uganda, who would otherwise go hungry, with Rafiki Thabo Foundation. A free school meal often acts as a magnet to get children into school.
A £3,000 HOLIDAY GENERATES A £150 DONATION AND CAN PAY FOR:
A young person to be trained as an Anne Frank Trust peer guide. Educating young people about the consequences and roots of prejudice and discrimination, and increases their understanding & respect of other cultures, faiths, & identities.
MAKE YOUR TRAVEL PLANS COUNT IN 2022 BY DONATING TO CHARITIES WITH CHARITABLE TRAVEL
www.charitable.travel
Unsplash
GRINNELL GLACIER TRAIL Montana’s Glacier National Park is larger than Kent, with 700 turquoise lakes and 35 glaciers. This 7.2mile strenuous hike starts gently, hugging two picturesque lakes (you can cheat here and hop on a boat), before climbing the flanks of Mt. Grinnell to a high point. Sit beneath a dramatic ring of peaks and jagged ridges, with views of the sparkling Grinnell, Salamander and Gem glaciers and the fir-trimmed Upper Grinnell Lake. You’ll cross wildflower meadows, pass the pretty Grinnell Falls and see grazing bighorn sheep.
© Cole Allen at
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THE SLIDING SANDS TRAIL This 11-mile hike in Hawaii’s Haleakala National Park on Maui Island might look like a descent into hell and back, as you enter the smoking crater of the world’s largest dormant volcano. You’ll feel like a Martian as you lower into the flame-hued crater, crunching over the cinder floor of this barren amphitheatre, where cones smoke in the distance. It’s hard going in places, thanks to the black sand, and what goes up must come down as this is not a loop tail. Look out for the rare Silversword, a spiky plant which lives for an incredible 90 years but flowers only once.
CADILLAC SOUTH RIDGE TRAIL This scenic seven-mile trail on Mount Desert Island takes you to the highest point in Maine’s Acadia National Park and the whole eastern seaboard, with 360-degree views of New England from its flat granite summit. You’ll start in the forest and climb slowly to the picturesque Featherbed Pond, nestled in greenery, before ascending above the treeline as the path becomes a barren granite ridge. At the top, pause for bird’s eye views of the Gulf of Maine, the scattered Cranberry Islands and the fishing port of Bar Harbor.
TALL TREES TRAIL A permit-only hike in California’s Redwood National Park, this 4.5-mile trail has some hard climbs but it’s worth it to reach this mystical grove where some of the park’s tallest trees grow. They sit along the glittering Redwood Creek, where you can stop to relax on the gravel banks or cool off your feet in the crystal clear water. The gigantic redwood trees rise up majestically from a carpet of five-foot-tall ferns and a dense undercanopy of smaller trees like hazelnut.
h © Ran Ding at Unsplas
Icons from www.flaticon.com - Web by Pixel perfect, Boot by Freepik. Redwood trees by Tim Mossholder at Unsplash
This year marks 150 years since the creation of America’s first national park. Celebrate with one of these epic hikes
Book a
at Unsplash © Jack Nieuwoudt
at Unsplash © Joel Moysuh
Spectacular hikes IN U.S NATIONAL PARKS
to the U .S rip .
ANGEL’S LANDING Not for the faint hearted, this 5.4mile hike in Utah’s Zion National Park affords breathtaking views of Zion Canyon’s 270-million-yearold russet rock layers. In Refrigerator Canyon, a flat shady path is hugged by sandstone walls and dotted with trees. Climb the 21 switchbacks called ‘Walter’s Wiggles’ to Scout Lookout and then, if you dare, the final hairraising walk along a knife-edge ridge to Angel’s Landing for 360-degree views of the canyon from 1,800 metres above its floor.
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sponsored feature
Get to know SABAH
SABAH
Community connections
Situated in the north of Borneo Island, Sabah is a diverse Malaysian state offering unique culture, exotic food and off-the-scale biodiversity. This is a destination that will appeal to those with adventurous taste buds – thanks to its tangled jungle, challenging mountains and underwater surprises – as well as explorer families and couples looking for romantic settings. Kota Kinabalu is the state capital of Sabah (known as KK by the locals), and a modern city with international influences alongside its cultural heritage.
Community tourism aims to boost sustainability, improve the livelihood of locals by helping them develop and manage tourism themselves and offer visitors an authentic window into Sabah’s culture. The region is home to more than thirty ethnic groups speaking over 80 languages and each with their own customs. Visit communities to get involved in paddy planting, rubber tapping and river fishing, play traditional instruments and games, create handicrafts or cook local dishes. In the Mari Mari Cultural Village you can watch clothes being made from jackfruit bark or see a blowpipe demonstration.
CAUGHT IN A BAIT BALL
ha & Tim Phillip
Diving is big in Sabah and Sipadan Island is one of the top-rated dive spots in the world, famous for its prolific turtles. At nearby islands like Mabul, Kapalai and Mataking, large marine life like sharks, along with tiny vivid sea creatures and colourful corals, are guaranteed sightings.
pus
Underwater love
Pandhu Waskit
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What’s it all about?
MARI MARI CU
LTURAL VILLAGE
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y to Sa b ida ol
HIKE TO ONE OF SABAH’S SPECTACULAR WATERFALLS
IDYLLIC ISLAN DS
ah
B oo k a h
sponsored feature
And another thing Tree planting is a great activity you can do in Sabah that makes a positive impact…
GOOD FOR YOU Plant a tree to commemorate a special occasion like an engagement, or remember a loved one.
Sabah is gifted with a long coastline and hundreds of islands, with stretches of white sandy beaches and crystal clear turquoise water. Head here to try water sports like scuba diving or snorkelling or just for plain relaxing. A cruise is a great way to explore the coast. Whether you’re looking for a quiet cruise to appreciate Sabah’s famously fiery sunsets, or a pumped-up party on the South China Sea, North Borneo Cruises has it.
TIMBA TIMBA ISLAND
Thrilling adventures
Activities can start almost as soon as you land in Sabah. Just off KK is Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, a group of five islands with a 250-metre zipline – the Coral Flyer – connecting Gaya to Sapi. If you don’t mind getting wet, the raging Padas River offers grade four to five white water rafting, or head to the Kiulu River for a milder ride. The three highest mountains in Malaysia are all in Sabah but UNESCO World Heritage-recognised Mount Kinabalu is the highest, at 4,095 metres. Climbing this mystical granite peak is a great way to appreciate Sabah’s scenery. It’s one of the youngest mountains in the world (between 7-8 million years) and a biodiverse hotspot home to the world’s largest flower, the carniverous Rafflesia. Extreme thrill seekers can take the via ferrata on Mount Kinabalu (meaning iron road and comprising a series of metal staples that allow you to climb steep rock sections), which is the world’s highest at 3,776 metres.
The forest around
Mazidi Abd Ghani
GOOD FOR COMMUNITIES APE Malaysia’s (apemalaysia. com) treeplanting activities are supported by local family-run tree nurseries in the Sukau villages, while KK Wetlands, which plants in the Sulaman Lake Forest Reserve and Lemaas Forest Reserve, employs locals to monitor growth.
Relax at the beach
Kinabatangan River is home to 10 species of primate
Jungle look
Sandakan is Sabah’s wildlife capital. Head to the famous Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Sanctuary to see these auburn primates close-up and learn about their plight and how they are rescued and released. Next door is the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre and nearby the Rainforest Discovery Centre with its canopy walkway for bird watching. Cruise the Kinabatangan River to spot wild orangutan, the nosy proboscis monkey, pretty hornbill birds and, if you’re lucky, a Bornean pygmy elephant.
ORANGUTAN PROBOSCIS MONKEYS
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GOOD FOR NATURE Planting trees provides shelter and food for animals, insects and birds, enriches the soil for further growth and absorbs carbon.
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Find mo r
Charities
at cau gre s
es
e
HELPING UKRAINE Since Russia invaded Ukraine, five million people have fled the country but 18 million people are thought to be affected by the conflict. You can help by donating to these amazing charities
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MEDECINS SANS FRONTIERES
The doctors without borders have been tested by the severity, scale and speed of the war in Ukraine but say the medical system it’s supporting is ‘robust and its capacity to rise to the challenge is impressive’. It’s getting emergency medical supplies (225 metric tonnes so far) into the country, for trauma patients and those with diseases. Donations also fund special hospital trains transporting MSF medics close to the front line and mass casualty training at hospitals across Ukraine. msf.org.u
DISASTERS EMERGENCY COMMITTEE
If you aren’t sure which charity to donate to then choose the Disasters Emergency Committee. It partners with 15 top aid charities, including the British Red Cross, International Rescue Committee, Oxfam and Save the Children, funnelling money to where it needs to be in this fast-moving humanitarian crisis. DEC charities are in Ukraine and its neighbouring countries meeting the needs of the refugees arriving daily. A donation of £30 could provide essential hygiene supplies for three people for one month, £50 could provide blankets for four families and £100 could provide emergency food for two families for one month. dec.org.uk
WORLD JEWISH RELIEF
The British Jewish community’s humanitarian agency, World Jewish Relief, supports the world’s poorest Jewish communities. Its 29 partners across Ukraine are struggling to protect their communities in the face of active conflict. Through them, it is responding to urgent humanitarian needs, prioritising food, cash, medical, material, and psychological support for those fleeing homes or unable to escape violence. worldjewishrelief.org
UNICEF
The UN’s children’s charity says more than half of Ukraine’s 7.5 million children have been forced to flee the violence, as homes, schools, water supplies and hospitals have been damaged or destroyed, and many have been separated from their families. UNICEF has teams in Poland, Moldova, Belarus, Romania, Slovakia, Hungary and Czech Republic working to provide humanitarian aid for children and families on the move. Working with regional governments and the UNHCR, UNICEF has created 17 Blue Dot safe spaces for children and women. These provide key information, psychosocial support, water and sanitation supplies, and help in identifying and protecting lone children. unicef.org.uk
REFUGEASE
A donation towards this charity’s emergency fund for Ukraine will support its efforts at the border, including transport and logistics, purchasing aid and supporting future projects as the crisis develops. Sending aid from the UK is expensive and slow to get there, but you can purchase desperately needed aid items for Ukrainian refugees from RefugEase’s Digital Aid Shop and your items will be distributed immediately to the people who need it most. refugease.org
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sponsored feature
State of natural
WONDERS Starting this June, British Airways will fly direct to Portland from Heathrow five days per week, making the state of Oregon a much easier place to get to. Find out how to unlock the grand vistas and urban secrets of this magnificent state
N
estled in America’s Pacific Northwest, understated Oregon is often overlooked in favour of its southern neighbour, but its natural attractions – towering rock formations, verdant forests, dramatic river valleys, snow-capped peaks, windswept beaches and rolling vineyards – are anything but modest. Add to that a choice of historic towns, cute fishing villages, mountain resorts and one of America’s hippest cities, and you might start to wonder why Oregon isn’t being talked about more. However, the lack of crowds only adds to this state’s appeal and ensure that peace and solitude are never out of reach.
HIP URBAN HUB
Portland is not just your gateway to this immense state. Once you visit, you’ll understand that this city has a unique spirit. It is a hipster hotspot, with accolades for its cuisine, vibrant
arts scene, great theatres and funky shopping districts. There are no less than six distilleries and a new crop of urban wineries producing inside the city limits, and that paired with over 500 food carts dotted around the city will keep your taste buds coming back for more. Eco-friendly is the norm in Portland, where bikes are the favoured way of seeing the sights, from the shimmering city lights to the leafy squares and parks and picturesque riverfront.
Ore is wa
Get in touch w of experts to b Oregon, whethe coast combina and biking tou sports charitabl oreg
SAHALIE FALLS
NEWPORT LIGHTHOUSE
EPIC VISTAS
Wherever you roam in Oregon, natural wonders abound. The perfect circle of Crater Lake (a national park) in southern Oregon is the deepest in the USA (at 1,943 feet) but despite its mesmerising views, it remains uncrowded and unspoilt. Located in the north-eastern corner of the state, Hells Canyon is the deepest river-carved gorge in North America (7,913 feet) and you’ll catch
OREGON HAS MORE SCENIC BYWAYS THAN ANY OT
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VIEW OF MOUNT HOOD
egon aiting
with our team book a trip to er it’s a city and ation, a hiking ur or a winter break. le.travel/ gon
© Kenji Sugahara
A NATIVE AMERICAN POW-WOW
your breath as you gaze at the blue Snake River winding through the velvet green hills. Interested in geology? The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is one of the richest fossil bed sites in the world and Oregon Caves National Monument is naturally carved in an outcrop of solid marble. Is adventure calling? Smith Rock towers above central Oregon and lures climbers from around the globe for the challenge of conquering its craggy heights. The less adrenaline-fuelled amongst you can hike around its base and still enjoy exceptional views. The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, which runs from the mouth of the Sandy River to the mouth of the Deschutes River, includes gorgeous waterfall hikes and scenic cycling on the Historic Columbia River Highway. Thirty miles south of the Columbia River, Mount Hood has five ski areas, and the state has a further seven downhill ski areas – all-in-all 400 trails over three ranges, offering bountiful options for all abilities. Water-based activities are always an option in a state with 6,000 lakes, 112,000 miles of rivers and streams and 363 miles of coastline. Try standup paddle boarding on sapphire lakes or kayaking through canyons or along the Pacific coastline. On the ocean you can catch your own Dungeness crab, watch for whales,
seals and puffins, or just make footprints in the sand. And if you want to stick to the road, a trip down Highway 101 is a great way to see Oregon’s historic lighthouses.
HIT THE ROAD
Oregon is blessed with 29 designated Scenic Byways, more than any other state in the USA. Accommodating varying interests, the state has divided the options into All-American Roads, Oregon State Scenic Byways, Tour Routes and National Scenic Byways and an interactive online map helps you create your perfect roadtrip. You can go your own way but Oregon has hundreds of licensed guides and operators who will help you get the best out of the state. Most offer themed tours but some let you customise your own itinerary. Maybe you want to taste Oregon’s bountiful produce? Try a farm-to-fork tour or go behind the scenes at a local brewery or winery with a guide who can be the designated driver. Want to get outside? Taking a naturalist-led hike or kayak tour can help you better understand the environment you’re travelling through. If you’re looking for thrills, book a whitewater rafting trip or ride a mountain bike down one of Oregon’s famous single-track trails. Whatever piques your interest, there’s an Oregon guide waiting to show you their incredible state.
THER STATE
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FIND YOURSELF
d i or l F in
Charitable Travel’s Travel Insider Podcasts (TIPs) has been hanging out in the Sunshine State and you’re invited too. This is Florida, but not as you know it… Hosted by the editor of Charitable Traveller Magazine, Laura Gelder, each episode of TIPs will transport you from wherever you are – whether it’s your comfiest armchair or a crowded commuter train – to somewhere that will inspire you. In our latest episode, available to listen to now, we whisk you away to Bradenton, Anna Maria Island and Longboat Key. It’s a part of Florida’s Gulf Coast which has an old time feel but a very modern outlook, especially when it comes to sustainability.
Local lore
We chat to Kelly Clark from the Bradenton Area Convention and Visitors Board and Ed Chiles, a restauranteur, keen fisherman and sustainability expert – both long time locals who know all the best places to watch the sunset, grab a coffee or cocktail and look for wildlife. Find out why the Bradenton area’s seafood is so special, get the lowdown on the local one-of-a-kind accommodation and hear about Anna Maria Island’s gorgeous powdery beaches and quirky shops and eateries.
Next departure
Keep an eye out for our next TIPs episodes too, including another slice of retro America as we tread the boardwalk in Atlantic City, New Jersey, and lots of craic as we flit across to our neighbours on the Emerald Isle.
Listen, follow and subscribe - wherever you get your podcasts charitable.travel/travel-insider-podcast
WHY I
donated... Derian House was a lifeline for Paula Slater’s family, after her 10 year
Icons from www.flaticon.com - Heart charity by Freepik
old daughter Katy was diagnosed with an incurable brain tumour I thought hospices were sad places, and it took some persuasion before I made the decision for my daughter Katy to go to Derian House. But it wasn’t what I thought at all – the place has something magical about it. Katy would have celebrated her 21st birthday this May but when she was just ten years old she was diagnosed with an inoperable brain tumour and given months to live. She was a bright, happy and popular little girl, had just started year six and was already looking forward to high school when I noticed something wasn’t right. She had begun to have headaches, was sleeping more often and smiling less. After many trips to the hospital, an MRI scan revealed the devastating diagnosis. I was heavily pregnant with my daughter Scarlet at the time and my other child, Charley, who was only eight years-old, was frightened and confused by what was happening. But the incredible staff at Derian House pulled together to make sure that we all had every bit of support we needed. We spent a lot of time there as a family and we have fond memories of that time. I especially remember Jeff the chef, who would go out of his way to make Katy’s
huskies became known as the Team favourite meals and special meals for Katy Husky Huddle and they came to us as a family. It was small things like her funeral and howled together as that that kept us going. Derian is a strangely beautiful place. we arrived. Derian was the place that I gave We laughed a lot while we were birth to baby Scarlet as Katy lay in there, especially Katy, which was so her bed with her dad by her side, it important. There wasn’t anything was where Scarlet had her first bath that the staff wouldn’t do for us. They and where my then-husband, Dave, were so nurturing and their love dyed his hair Katy’s favourite colour shone through in everything they blue to make her smile. And, after did. I remember when they gave a long, hard battle, Derian was the Charley a manager’s badge, and we place that we said goodbye to Katy. all laughed when she told us she She died peacefully in a big bed with didn’t think she could handle the Dave and I cuddled up to her and her responsibility. favourite Disney CD playing. It was One of Katy’s bucket list wishes was very peaceful. to go on a husky sled ride. Of course, We wouldn’t have coped as well we thought this was impossible – but as we did without Derian House’s not at Derian. We had put her list in support, love and belief in us. So, to the press and, out of the blue, a man show our heartfelt gratitude, Charley, named Nick arrived at Derian’s front Scarlet and I are going to walk a 21door with a husky puppy named mile loop in the Lake District Storm. While a sled ride on Katy’s 21st birthday, was out of the question, to raise money for the the staff welcomed hospice and help Storm inside for Katy them continue the to meet. A week incredible work later, a whole load Derian House children’s hospice provides free respite and end of life they do. It’s what of husky puppies care to children and young people Katy would have arrived for the in the North West. Its services cost wanted because children to play over £5 million a year. she always tried to with. After Katy had derianhouse.co.uk help others. passed away, these
A place of love
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MARINE CONSERVATION
in numbers
Managed by a small team of volunteers, Sea-Changers is a UK charity that develops fundraising partnerships with businesses who want to give something back to our seas. Money raised is used to fund grants for other marine charities and not-for-profit organisations engaged in conservation and research projects around the UK. Many of these simply wouldn’t happen without its support.
100 MILLION
SHARKS
92%
the staggering pr of the UK’s seagr in the last centur habitat for many creatures
0.15-1.02
BILLION TONNES
ARE KILLED EVERY YEAR BY THE GLOBAL FISHING INDUSTRY, ALONG WITH AN ESTIMATED 300,000 WHALES, DOLPHINS AND PORPOISES THAT ARE CAUGHT AS BYCATCH
The estimated amoun of CO2 released into th atmosphere when coas ecosystems are degrade destroyed or converted
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AT CURRENT RATES, PLASTIC IS EXPECTED TO OUTWEIGH ALL THE FISH IN THE SEA BY 2050. SOME AREAS OF THE WORLD’S OCEANS NOW CONTAIN SIX TIMES MORE MICROPLASTICS THAN PLANKTON
30-40%
OF UK FISH STOCKS ARE OVERFISHED 32
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%
3
COASTAL WATER FOUNTAINS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ON OR NEAR BEACHES ACROSS THE UK BY SEA-CHANGERS, ALLOWING PEOPLE TO USE REFILLABLE BOTTLES AND CUT PLASTIC POLLUTION
80
roportion grass lost ry, a vital y marine s
education projects have been enabled by Sea-Changers in schools, colleges and communities, connecting with children and adults
33 PROJECTS
S
nt he stal ed, d
HAVE BEEN FUNDED BY SEA-CHANGERS TO PROTECT SPECIES LIKE SEALS, DOLPHINS, SHARKS, OYSTERS, BARNACLES, LOBSTERS AND SEA TERNS
GRANTS AIM TO:
Over the last 10 years Sea-Changers has given out over 230 grants to UK marine conservation projects
1 2 3
14
MILLION TONNES
OF PLASTIC END UP IN THE OCEAN EVERY YEAR. IN THE UK ALONE WE USE AROUND 275,000 TONNES OF PLASTIC EVERY YEAR – THAT’S AROUND 15 MILLION BOTTLES A DAY
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research projects funded by SeaChangers have taken place in universities, conservation groups and in communities to understand, address and prepare for the threats our seas face
Address the root causes of marine conservation threats and challenges in the UK Prevent or reduce negative impacts on UK coastal and marine environments and/or species Add to the body of knowledge about marine conservation challenges in the UK
FIND OUT MORE: CHARITABLE.TRAVEL/SEA-CHANGERS
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WOMEN’S
intuition
Goddess Hub CIC supports women who have experienced pregnancy loss. We talk to
Laark Boshoff at Unsplash
its founder, Keji Moses
WHAT IS GODDESS HUB CIC?
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Goddess Hub CIC (community interest company) is a community for women that have experienced pregnancy loss and are at a point where they want to move forward and find a sense of purpose. It’s not about forgetting grief or denying experience or pain. It’s about helping women see that grief is a journey and providing them with the tools they need to heal themselves and awaken their inner goddess. We will achieve this via a weekend retreat using a special framework called S.O.A.R.
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO SET IT UP?
In 2018, my daughter Mayah was stillborn at 35 weeks. I can’t describe how I felt but I was in a very dark
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place and I couldn’t see the light at the end of the tunnel until I used S.O.A.R, which helped me progress and eventually got me to the point (in 2020) where I founded a charity, Mayah’s Legacy, as well as becoming a coach and grief counsellor. Mayah’s Legacy exists to shine a light on the issue of pregnancy loss and in particular the mental health impact of it. It’s also dedicated to promoting self advocacy. There were times during my pregnancy when I could have spoken up about what I wanted to happen but I didn’t have the confidence or courage to do it. I have met other women who said that they had moments where they intuitively knew something was wrong and did speak up, but no one listened. Mayah’s Legacy helps women and their families gain the skills and the confidence to make
themselves heard. I took a year off work after I lost Mayah and joined various support groups, but I felt that much of it was about how you were feeling in the raw moments right after pregnancy loss and there wasn’t enough support to help women transition into the next phase. I was lucky to be able to take time off because it allowed me to focus on myself and be with my other two kids. That’s why I created Goddess Hub, to give women the time, the space and the support network they need to continue their healing journey, which has no time limit and is unique to each person.
WHAT IS S.O.A.R?
S.O.A.R stands for surrender, openness, action and approach and is a framework for healing and empowerment. The surrender
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A Goddess Hub Retreat will last two days and we’ll have different facilitators to help women look at different issues. We’ll combine things like meditation, one-to-one coaching and group sessions where women can talk and share their feelings and hopes in a safe space. The sessions that women choose to enter will depend on where they are on their journey and what they are looking to get out of the process. It’ll be a very flexible programme with quiet time built in as well as chances for the women to get to know each other and bond over their shared experiences.
WHAT’S YOUR ADVICE FOR HELPING SOMEONE COPE WITH PREGNANCY LOSS? Try to see things from their viewpoint. You may not have experienced what they are going through but you can listen to
WHAT IS THE BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION ABOUT PREGNANCY LOSS?
People often think that as long as a woman can get pregnant again that they will be ok but that’s not true. People go through deep depressions and have suicidal thoughts following pregnancy loss, marriages can break up and parents are not able to be there for their living children. I developed PTSD during my pregnancy, which was fraught with complications, and that really impacted my relationship with my family, including my children.
Hannah Busing at Unsplash
WHAT WILL HAPPEN ON A RETREAT?
them tell you about it. Also, it’s ok to tell someone you don’t feel able or equipped to support them. Let them know that you care and you’ll help them find professional support, so that you don’t add to the sense of isolation and abandonment.
d more g Fin
Avrielle Suleiman at Unsplash s at Unsplash Linkedin sales solution
session helps women to identify what is blocking them from embracing who they are. Openness is about being open to love – and in particular learning to love yourself. The action phase sees women identifying their dreams and goals and creating a strategy to achieve them as well as a unique healing plan. The reawaken session helps women to action their plan, reawaken their authentic self and recognise that they have everything they need already.
a a t c us e s re
There’s also a misconception that pregnancy loss is so personal that we shouldn’t speak about it. It’s true that it is personal, and you can choose not to talk about your experience, but it’s important that we talk about it in general. We need to look at how it impacts society and make changes to how we care for the people who go through it.
WHAT IS NEXT FOR GODDESS HUB?
Our website is up and running and we are looking to run our first retreat soon. I want to create a community of women who can lift each other up and encourage one another to see a way through pregnancy loss. My ultimate goal is to be running retreats all over the country and eventually creating a global community. I have based Goddess Hub on the S.O.A.R approach because it really worked for me but also because I believe that it’s something everyone can take and use again and again throughout their lives. We don’t just focus on the experience of pregnancy loss, we look at each woman and ask: who are you and who do you want to be?
Woman on mission
Find out more about Keji and how she’s using her experience to help other women at Goddess Hub. You can access support and resources related to pregnancy loss at Mayah’s Legacy. goddesshub.uk mayah.org.uk
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southern portugal
If you thought you knew southern Portugal, think again. Lynn Houghton heads away from the crowds to walk in the footsteps of the hardy fishermen who have worked its wild west coast for centuries
The fisherm T Seaweed vector created by rawpixel.com, www.freepik.com
he craggy and windswept path that is the Fisherman’s Way begins in the tourist hub of Lagos, trailing up and down the edge of the dramatic red and ochre cliffs that line this popular coast. Holidaymakers have been visiting the sun-soaked Algarve resorts of Lagos, Albufeira and Faro since the 1960s, to enjoy their golden sand beaches, calm waters, fresh seafood and sun-dappled skies. But, for those who dare to venture westwards, there is a less explored part of this region which has ample rewards too. You can walk mile-upon-mile of undeveloped, rugged coastline into the
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western Algarve. Fishermen’s huts, rustic farms and small villages are prevalent here rather than big resorts, and just off the road you’ll see shepherds tending their goat herds. To walk the entire Fisherman’s Way, which is 143 miles long, takes between 11 and 13 days and will take you from Lagos, around the Algarve’s coast into the neighbouring region of Alentejo, ending on the golden dune-backed beach of Praia de Sao Torpes on the Atlantic coast. GO WEST I start in the white-washed fishing village of Burgau, 12km west of Lagos, but if
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southern portugal
man’s way
LIGHTHOUSE, CABO DE SAO VICENTE
you fancy exploring the rural inland area of the Algarve, there is an alternative Fisherman’s Way track that turns north from Lagos to Odeceixe. It’s a clear day, perfect for walking, although I stumble a bit at the start because the shale path is tricky to negotiate. Luckily I have company from fellow hikers and volunteers, Ana, Diogo, and Riccardo, who are also tasked with refreshing the blue and green stripes painted onto various rocks that helpfully mark the way. The dramatic terrain along the path is at odds with the peaceful mood, battered as it has been by the forces of
nature since it was formed. The delicate greywacke (a type of sandstone) cliffs have been pummelled and sliced by merciless wind and waves. But lying at the bottom of these cliffs are virtually empty golden sand beaches, where you can lie down and gaze upon the basalt outcrops just off-shore, home to large nesting birds like pelicans and storks. After half an hour, our group reaches a flat area and we position ourselves on the cliff edge to watch the surfers off the Praia dos Rebolos below. After descending a particularly steep section of the trail, we stop to indulge in a seafood lunch typical of this region.
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southern portugal
mouth-watering pastel de nat
O Laurenço in Salema serves up a mean arroz do timbani (rice stew with monkfish) and, afterwards, we have espressos and the obligatory pastry dessert, a pastel de nata, which is a flaky custard-filled tart.
ATLANTIC ALEN
© Marcia Cripps
on Unsplash
TEJO
AN
EE ALMOND TR
THE END OF THE WORLD Hundreds of years ago, Sagres, the southwestern-most tip of Europe, was considered to be the end of the known world. The Greeks, and after them the Romans, thought of it as a mystical place and an important destination for pilgrimages. The Arabs were also attracted to the area and invaded, dominating for over 500 years until 1250AD. They left behind salt pans, carob and almond trees as well as unique chimneys, beautiful fountains and water features. In those days al-Andalus, as it was known, was dramatically cut off from the rest of Portugal by the Serra de Monchique mountain range. Today it still feels that way. The Sagres peninsula continues to draw pilgrims along with tourists and surfers. The flattopped promontory has been battered by the elements over millennia but it’s remarkable to see the abundance of plants that manage to grow here, notably
the Phoenician Juniper and an indigenous white rock rose. Other endemic plants include Vincentin Germander, a fragrant shrub with tiny mauve flowers similar to lavender; Sagres Candytuft, with its frilly white petals; purple violets; a wild form of rocket which grows in the cracks of sun-warmed rocks; a magenta-hued sun rose and the hardy purple and yellow flowered goat’s thorn. Sagres attracts a curious mix of people, with fishermen, farmers and surfers living cheek-by-jowl. Many flock here to see the historic fort, which sits on a staggeringly huge cliff overlooking the ocean. A few miles further north, another peninsula juts out to sea and provides the location of the Cabo São Vicente Lighthouse. On approach, the lighthouse is so close to the cliff’s edge it appears to be floating above the ocean. The views out to sea are similarly spellbinding. AND RELAX... I give my feet a rest and drive north from Sagres, entering the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina, unique for being the largest coastal wilderness in continental Europe. As there is so little development here, it is also
ARRIFANA’S DRAMATIC BEACH
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Prai do Canal Nature Resor t
known for its excellent stargazing. Exploring the steep coast is certainly easier if you have somewhere luxurious to retreat to and Praia do Canal provides just that. Planning permission for the resort was in place before the park boundaries were decided so it’s a unique addition to an area mainly inhabited by farms and a few scattered villages Nevertheless, Praia do Canal prides itself on its sustainable ethos and blends into its natural background of grassy meadows and pine trees. Named after the nearest beach, though that is nearly an hour’s walk away, the 56 room resort is made up of slender, modern, box shaped buildings. Indoors are artistic renditions paying homage to the area: sculptures from tree roots, handcarved wooden tables, wicker encrusted chandeliers and even olive trees growing out of the tables at the Azeitona Restaurant. The infinity pool nestles in a boxed-in garden next to the spa which has two treatment rooms, a hammam and an indoor pool. From the grounds are three trails that take guests on treks into the meadows around the resort. But most staying here go further afield, visiting nearby beaches and villages or taking horse rides. I join the chef on a shopping expedition to find goose barnacles (a local delicacy)
southern portugal
for dinner. We end up in the tiny beach village of Arrifana, where redroofed houses zig-zag down the steep coast to yet another perfect golden arc of sand. I promise myself I will return here, ’S FRIEND either to explore the cliffFISHERMAN top on foot or paddleboard around the rock formations. But, for now, lunch at the superb fish restaurant perched on the very edge of the town will do. O Paulo not only has astonishing ocean views but a menu that celebrates the fruits of the sea below. After sampling LUNCH AT PRAI A DO CANAL a gratin of scallops and shrimp, octopus salad, fish soup and beautifully cooked razor clams, spider crab, oysters and lobster, we settle onto the balcony with a cold Sagres beer to watch the sun sink into the glittering ocean and the pink-washed cliffs fade to black silhouettes.
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t ou
more ab
o
Hammer
Find
THE LIFE OF...
s y Ho me s le
A day in
ut
Crystal Bloomfield, Outreach Manager at Hammersley Homes, which provides ongoing support for adults who live with enduring mental health challenges
Give dignity
Nik Shuliahin at Unsplash
…Starts with looking at the log notes from our volunteers to see if there are any safeguarding Hammersley Homes rely on donations to run services for concerns or anything else I need people who often can’t get support to follow up. I recruit, train and anywhere else. More donations induct our team of volunteers. I means more people have the also write up support plans and chance to live a happy life. risk assessments, communicate hammersleyhomes.org with the mental health services who refer to us and meet with clients to carry out their initial assessment and find out how we can
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help them to live their best lives. Every day is different but I love it.
The hardest thing..
...is hearing when there are safeguarding concerns, but the biggest challenge in my job is expanding our services to support all the people who need them.
The best bit. .
…is when I hear how beneficial our services are. One client told me that they had started enjoying hobbies again and it gave them such a confidence boost. The trust and friendship clients build with volunteers means they come out of their shell and gain a real sense of purpose. The volunteers also find it rewarding and they develop great life skills. One told me that what they learnt with us improved their relationship with a relative. Our services have a knock-on effect. It sets the friends and relatives of our clients’ minds at rest and lessens the strain on their own mental health. It also impacts the community, because we prevent people getting to the point of hospitalisation or on the wrong side of the law. Mental health support has a snowball affect.
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A typical day..
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Since the pandemic the number of people suffering from mental health problems has increased further. In the UK we have great provisions for people who reach crisis point and lots of temporary help, but ongoing support isn’t there for many people who need it. Our volunteers catch up with clients remotely and in person. We offer them friendship and help with anything they might be struggling with. We all need a nudge to do the washing sometimes, but if you’re suffering from mental illness, small things can become overwhelming. Many clients live alone and are quite vulnerable. We replace loneliness, chaos and confusion with kindness and compassion. We support them to find hobbies, build a social network and get involved in the community.
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Hannah Webster at VisitLeeds
THE VICTORIA QUARTER
HAREWOOD HOUSE
THE LEEDS CORN EXC
HAN
This bold and brilliant regional capital is the perfect place for a weekend break, whether you’re looking for shopping and pampering, or eating and drinking, says
Sally Bendall
Check in to The Queens. Up front and central, Leeds’ biggest hotel has the whole city on its doorstep. And thanks to a £16 million transformation, there has never been a better time to stay here. A familiar landmark next to Leeds train station, The Queens transports you back to the golden age of the railways, with all the glamour of art deco style and a first-class service.
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Friday afternoon
Kick off with a Leeds Food Tour. There are six stops, each serving some of Leeds’ best food, plus drinks at three venues, and the tour guide Nell will furnish you with interesting facts about the city and its history. Tours start at 12 and last around 4 hours, giving you time to get your bearings. Alternatively, families can hop on a water taxi from Granary Wharf to the free Royal Armouries, where you can survey its collection of armour, weapons and battle scenes. Time it right and you can even catch knights jousting on horseback! Head to Junkyard Golf for crazy golf in a neon nightclub-like atmosphere, or one of the city’s three Roxy venues, which mix drinks with games like pool, shuffleboard, ping pong and bowling.
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Savour the breakfast at The Queens or enjoy a lie-in and have a decadent brunch at the Grand Pacific restaurant (think Singapore’s famous Raffles Hotel, thanks to art-deco style, but unmistakably Yorkshire), all without stepping outside the hotel. If you are looking for a family day out, try Temple Newsam Estate, which has a kid-friendly farm, gorgeous gardens and a Go Ape; Roundhay Park, which has lakes, two playgrounds and a mini train; or the 18th century Harewood House, which has a bird sanctuary, pretty grounds and a huge play area.
Saturday afternoon
Gi About Tra
If you enjoy the finer things in life, make a beeline for the spa at the Leeds Lush store. With treatments to suit every budget, it’s one of only Free to join, this alleight in the UK. I recommend The club and travel concier women to dream, plan Good Hour treatment, a 70 minute holidays that can’t be g massage delivered in a room like a experts, Girl About is a ship’s quarters, bathed in a mystical sharing unbiased advic green ‘sea mist’ and with the and discounts. Charitab soothing sound of sea shanties.
partner of Girl About,
can book holidays vi
money to their fa
charitable.t abo
Britain
Leeds
Saturday morning
ARMOURIES FUN AT THE ROYAL
Gavin Forster at Visit
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ROUNDHAY PAR
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splash Jonny Gios at Un
s at VisitBritain Penelope Beilcku
NGE
Shopaholics head to Victoria Leeds (incorporating Harvey Nichols and John Lewis) for designer brands and Briggate or the Trinity Shopping Centre for high street names. The Leeds Corn Exchange has tonnes of independent shops stuffed with hand-made jewellery, vintage fashion and more. For souvenirs, stop at The Great Yorkshire Shop, or you’re a daft ha’p’orth (Yorkshire slang for ‘foolish person’). Want some culture? Leeds Art Gallery and The Henry Moore Institute on The Headrow host many fascinating exhibits or The Tetley and Left Bank Leeds have a fantastic programme of eclectic events.
Saturday night
Families, head to Leeds City Varieties, The Playhouse or Everyman Cinema for entertainment. A plethora of food options, satisfying even the pickiest of palettes, are available at Trinity Kitchen. For a classy child-free dinner, book the Man Behind the Curtain by Micheal -female members’ O’Hare (do it weeks ahead). This Michelin rge service empowers n and book amazing star restaurant serves up a tasting menu googled. Run by travel of delectable Asian and European a network of women flavours in classy surroundings. I also ce, travel guides, offers love the showstopper Dakota Grill in the ble Travel is the official Dakota Hotel. There’s a sophisticated
irl avel Club
, meaning members
buzz about it and a live pianist adds to the ambience as you dine on stylishly-presented comfort food. If you want to hop from bar to bar, Leeds is a perfect place to be and Call Lane, Merrion Street and Trinity will all oblige. Leeds has several speakeasy-style bars and Domino Club – accessed through a barber’s shop – has extra-special cocktails and live music.
Sunday morning
Time it right and you’ll catch the artisan bakeries and butchers at Briggate Farmers Market (every first and third Sunday) down Leeds’ main shopping street. It’s the perfect spot for an al fresco breakfast and some people watching. If you need to be inside then Moose Coffee has one of the biggest breakfast menus I’ve ever seen. Blow the cobwebs away with a stroll around Kirkstall Abbey or the amazing York Gate Garden, both of which have darling little tea rooms. If you have room for a Sunday dinner then an oldschool classic is The Mustard Pot in Chapel Allerton – they’ve been serving Leeds foodies for over 30 years. Alternatively, Whitelock’s is the oldest pub in the city and famed for its Yorkshire puddings. A top-notch vegan roast can be found at Meat is Dead. If you need a sweet treat, stop in at the instagramworthy Fleur Café for a chocolate fondant.
ia the club and give
avourite charity.
GE STREET
LEEDS & LIVERPOOL
CANAL, HORSFORTH
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Gary Butterfield
I like press
plash Lison Zhao at Uns
RK
at Unsplash
STREET ART, GEOR
travel/girlout
MARGARET RIVER Surf-flecked beaches and sun-soaked vineyards are what attract people to this holiday region two and a half hours south of Perth. If you can tear yourself away from the powdery sands and warm turquoise waters of the coast, inland you’ll find fertile green landscapes rather than arid desert. There are also nearly 100 cellar doors where you can taste the local wine as well as a booming craft beer and spirit scene and a smorgasbord of gourmet dining options.
Four views of
BROOME This sleepy pearling station is rich in Aboriginal heritage, has a thriving Chinatown and is a jumping off point for those who want to explore the wild coast of the western Kimberley. Here you can see where the red outback meets the blue sea, although the most famous stretch of sand – Cable Beach – is white and best explored by camel. At Gantheaume Point you can see 130 million year-old dinosaur footprints in the reef rock at low tide.
© DANIEL TRAN/ESPERANCE
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
ESPERANCE This part of south WA is famous for its pristine beaches lapped by the turquoise Indian Ocean. Lucky Bay claims to have the whitest sand in Australia and even attracts sun worshipping kangaroos. Even more unusual is the bubblegum pink lake on Middle Island. Ringed by a white salt shore and divided from the bright blue ocean by a strip of green paperbark and eucalyptus trees, this spectacular lake’s colour comes from the algae that thrive in its very saline water.
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Closer to Asia than Sydney and larger than most countries, WA is an ancient land of spectacular natural wonders
PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK Containing the bizarrely beautiful beehiveshaped rocks of the Bungle Bungle range, this park is in the east of the vast Kimberley region, a sacred and ancient wilderness. The orange and black striped sandstone domes rise from the arid savannah and can only be accessed in the dry season (April to November). Other highlights include a walk through the Echidna Chasm, a fiery gorge up to 200 metres high and barely a metre wide in places but filled with prehistoric Livistona palms.
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a Book
Postcard from
p to Israe tri l
TEL AVIV By Laur Gelder
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Miam vibes
If you sit on the beach in Barcelona you won’t need to strain hard to hear the dulcet tones of a Brit, or 100, close by. But in Tel Aviv, Israel’s – and surely the Mediterranean’s – hippest city, I heard none. The city is called the Miami of the Middle East and no wonder. Retro tower blocks extend right down to the sand, where palm trees, gaudy beach huts and the rainbow façade of the Dan Tel Aviv Hotel – which has hosted Madonna and The Rolling Stones – create an Instagrammer’s dream. Beautiful people parade the sun-soaked promenade on foot or skates. Most Brits don’t come to Tel Aviv for the beach though. It’s very much a city break destination, and a 24hour party place if you want it to be. My favourite place was Carmel Market. Open since the 1920s, the Shuk Hacarmel, as locals know it, sells clothes and electronics along with piles of colourful fruit and vegetables and tempting street food. The smell of freshly-squeezed pomegranate juice and a persuasive man selling falafel decided my lunch.
Biblical views
Jaff is 4,000 years old
Most of Tel Aviv’s architecture is modern – it has the world’s biggest collection of Bauhaus buildings – but keep walking south along the promenade and it starts to feel more like the Holy Land. Jaffa is thought to be the oldest constantly occupied port in the world, having
Hit leafy Rothchild Boulevard for Bauhaus buildings, coffee kiosks and hip bars and restaurants
views of modern Tel Aviv
The tiny square under Jaffa’s clock tower has an Arab bakery selling bagels and pastries
existed for 4,000 years. Its cobbled streets and honey stone alleyways are now home to modern art galleries, silversmiths and trendy bistros, but St. Peter’s Church is built on the remains of a crusader castle. After wandering amongst Jaffa Flea Market’s jumble stalls selling old records, vintage clothes, books and antiques, I stopped in at Dr Shakshuka. Battered pots and pans hung from the restaurant’s stone ceiling and the shakshuka (eggs baked in a spiced tomato sauce) came in a hot skillet. As the sun sank into the Mediterranean, I stood on the sea wall under the spearmint minaret of the Al-Bahr Mosque, caught between two worlds – Jaffa’s biblical port and the glittering skyline of Tel Aviv.
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Tiggywinkles is the busiest hospital in the World, treating over 13,000 sick, injured or orphaned British wild animals each year.
Our doors are open 24/7 to offer ground-breaking, specialist veterinary treatment.
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One child in every classroom is bullied every single day. Help children grow up safe from bullying and harm. charitable.travel/kidscape/
t
Book a
a
Postcard from
to Eston i rip
Tallinn’s old city dates back to the 13th century
folk songs and joining hands to form a 400 mile human chain, linking Tallinn to Vilnius in Lithuania.
Digital nation
Estonia is a forward-thinking country where digital rules (even voting is online) but art flourishes. Tallinn still has its Russian-influenced orthodox churches with
Former submarine shipyard, Port Noblessner, is home to the
pretty pastels
© Marek Metslaid
Unsplash
lively Pohjala craft brewery
Eryka Ragna at
If you’ve been seduced by Prague or Budapest, you’ll love the terracotta turrets, medieval apothecaries and candlelit taverns of Tallinn. But Estonia has its own personality. The singsong lilt of its language, the black bread and herring sandwiches and the clapboard houses appear Scandinavian. But peel back the layers, like a babushka doll, and you’ll discover the Russian influence. The pretty pink baroque facade of Kadriog Palace, built by Tsar Peter I, is at stark odds with the austere Patareil Prison that squats beside the chilled steel-grey Baltic harbour, a reminder of Estonia’s not-so-distant Soviet past. The KGB Museum gives a chilling sense of life under occupation and is located in Hotel Viru, which housed both foreigners and spies in a time of paranoia. Estonia has been occupied by Danes, Swedes and Russians, but independence followed the Singing Revolution. Two months before the Berlin Wall came crashing down, thousands of citizens staged a peaceful protest, singing forbidden
© Rasmus Jurkatam
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Split personality
Karson at Unsplash
TALLINN By Laur Gelder
For great views of Tallinn’s terracotta turrets, walk along its ancient walls
summer nights
their onion domes and glittering relics, but most people prefer to worship the Estonian way, via nature. I hopped on a bike to explore. Starting on the bone-shaking cobbles of the old town, I pedalled to the old fishing community of Kalamaja where the Telliskivi Creative City’s old factories now house over 200 hip indie businesses selling everything from truffles to hand made ceramics. Hungry, I headed back to Old Town for dinner. It’s so far north that summer nights stay light but at Olde Hansa they batten down the hatches for a medieval feast of wild boar and rabbit stew, washed down with fiery black pepper schnapps. When I left at midnight the sky was still violet.
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Get to know © Deb Dowd at Unsplash
THE AMAZON
A SLOTH
What’s it all about?
The world’s biggest rainforest, the Amazon occupies 40% of South America, spanning eight countries from the Andes to the Atlantic coast, with the colossal River Amazon flowing through it. It’s home to one of the world’s richest eco-systems and one in ten species on Earth.
Tribal roots
It’s not just animals and birds that live in the Amazon, this wild jungle is home to more than 30 million people, including about 400 indigenous tribes. The sheer size of the rainforest and its wild nature means tribes developed within isolated areas, so a plethora of unique cultures exist across the region, expressed in things like language, dances, craftwork and religious rituals. Tours visit villages that are open to tourism and offer the opportunity to learn about and experience the indigenous culture, by sharing their food or searching for medicinal plants, for example.
PADDLING IN ECUADOR
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© Junior Reis at
Huge sea-going cruise ships leave from the Amazon’s largest port, Manaus in Brazil, but are limited on how far they go. Smaller ships can follow narrower and shallower tributaries, cause less damage and access more untouched areas, while canoe tours can go deeper still. For luxury cruises, head to Brazil, Ecuador or Peru.
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Hop on boat
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The Amazon
AN INDIGENOUS
TRIBAL DANCE
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A BALD UAKARI MONKEY
© Jairo Alzate
t Bo
ok a trip
t Sou h Am ica er
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Top spots in the Amazon. .
MAMIRAUÁ RESERVE, BRAZIL A floating ecolodge helps protect Brazil’s largest area of flooded forest, home to the rare scarletfaced bald uakari monkey.
© Deb Dowd at Unsplash
Manaus in Brazil is a bustling city of two million; Iquitos in Peru is the largest city in the world not connected by road, where mud huts mingle with tiled colonial mansions, and in Leticia, Colombia, parrots not pigeons flap around the plazas. These frontier towns are a whisker from the wild and the start point for trips into the jungle.
IQUITOS, PERU
Animal instincts
You’ll hear the Amazon’s wildlife before you see it, including the metallic rasp of millions of cicadas and melodic birdsong, punctuated by the ear-splitting call of the bare-throated bellbird, which sounds like a rusty gate, and the piercing wolf whistle of the screaming phia. There’s also the mournful groan of howler monkeys, the chattering of poison dart frogs and the shriek of the bulldog bat, which is louder than a rock concert. The king of the jungle is the jaguar, a muscular and stealthy cat which is extremely elusive. You’re more likely to see giant river otters (up to two metres long) feasting on fish; smiley-faced sloths dangling from trees; snub-nosed cabybaras (which look like giant guinea pigs); the vivid flash of flitting macaws; playful pink river dolphins or the droopy-nosed tapir. There are an incredible range of monkey species, including the bearded emperor tamarind, with its resplendent white moustache.
Famous predators of the Amazon include
A MANAUS MARKET
the giant anaconda, black caimans – which grow up to six metres long and swallow their prey whole – and the fierce looking harpy eagle, plus a cast of critters of course
© Tadeiu Jnr at Unsplash
MADIDI NATIONAL PARK, BOLIVIA Where the Amazon meets the Andes, to spectacular effect.
Stay while
Be responsible
The Amazon is being destroyed at an alarming rate, for logging or to create farmland, and it’s devastating for the wildlife and people who live there. Tourism offers an alternative income to the people of the Amazon, but it can also be damaging. Stay away from tours which exhibit captive animals or allow selfies with wildlife. Pick lodges and tours which are sensitive to the eco system and respect indigenous people.
PICK TOURS THAT RESPECT
LOCALS
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© Bill Wegener at Unsplash
PACAYA SAMIRIA NATIONAL RESERVE, PERU This forest area floods every year and is bursting with rare animals, like jaguars.
SCARLET MACA WS
© Deb Dowd at Unsplash
YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK, ECUADOR One of the most diverse places on Earth, home to about 200 species of mammal and 600 of bird.
caribbean
into the hinterland The Caribbean has some of the world’s most sought after beaches, but what if you spent some time away from the sand and sea? We promise you won’t be disappointed...
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Arthur Daniel
caribbean
Caribbean
T
hink Caribbean and there’s a good chance the image of a beach pops into your head. White sandy shores, trimmed with palm trees and lapped by turquoise water are the poster stars of the region, quite rightly, but they do somewhat overshadow what lies inland and in some cases this is even more spectacular. Sometimes stepping away from the beach will make you appreciate it even more and certainly offers a different perspective. In Saint Lucia it’s the Toblerone-shaped Pitons which dominate every postcard but hiking up Gros Piton, the taller of the famous twin peaks but the easier to summit, gives you a bird’s eye view of the island. Starting amongst mango trees, you’ll climb steeply, cutting through fertile jungle and scrambling over large rocks. At the top you’ll be rewarded by a dizzying view as you gaze down on Petit Piton, the coloured rooftops of Soufriere nestled in deep greenery, Vieux Fort, the beaches and beyond to Saint Vincent. BOOTS AND ALL Hiking is a great way to see the Caribbean and options vary from easy strolling to strenuous treks, although the most rewarding views are usually in the latter category. Volcanoes feature in many toprated Caribbean hikes, including Guadeloupe’s Grand Soufriere – the highest point in the Lesser Antilles – and Mount Liamuiga in St. Kitts, which has a crater rim half a mile wide, known as the Devil’s Tooth. Mount Pelee in Martinique is infamous for causing the so-called Pompeii of the Caribbean, when it erupted suddenly in 1902 and decimated the island’s former capital Saint-Pierre. You can visit the ruins of the old town and climb the cone for sweeping island views and the chance to explore the fern forest that now smothers the caldera along with unique orchids. Martinique is criss-crossed by 350km of trails, called traces, which were used by early settlers to explore. The Caribbean’s longest official walk is Dominica’s Waitukubuli Trail, a community-led project which allows
Saint Lucia's P itons tourists to hike the entire length of the country in about two weeks, though it’s divided into 14 sections. Waitukubuli is the indigenous name for the island, which means ‘tall is her body’, and using local guides and homestays ensures you understand the culture and history of the Kalinago people whose territory the trail crosses through, passing misty mountains, lush rainforest, spectacular gorges and waterfalls. Another famous hike on this wild island, which is reminiscent of the one in Jurassic Park, is the Boiling Lake Trail, which transports you to a flooded volcanic fumarole in the Valley of Desolation. The bubbling cauldron is 200 feet wide and topped with swirling witchy vapours. There are many landscapes you might not expect in the Caribbean – like Arikok National Park in Aruba. This area of dry scrub and boulders, punctuated by tall, thin cactuses could be the set for an American Wild West movie. In Cuba the bucolic Valle de Viñales looks like nothing else in the Caribbean. It’s recognised by UNESCO, not just for the dramatic landscape, with limestone outcrops (known as mogotes) towering over emerald plantations, but the unique rural culture that still survives amongst the farming communities who grow bananas, sugar cane, coffee, pineapples and tobacco in the rusty earth. Hiking, cycling and horse riding tours are great ways to explore. Other unique sights in Cuba include Gran Caverna de Santo Tomás,
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cold-blooded Caribbean resident
the second-largest cave system in the Americas, where you’ll see bats, stalagmites and stalactites, underground pools, otherworldly rock formations and a replica of an indigenous petroglyph. And the island's Zapata Biosphere Reserve is home to the critically endangered Cuban crocodile.
are six species of hummingbird, which you can spot suspended like blurry jewels in front of the gaudy tropical flowers they feast on. St. Vincent has its very own parrot, named after the island but sadly endangered thanks to loss of habitat and the live pet trade. The latter no doubt found the birds’ unique colours too tempting. A large parrot, at about 40cm long, with bright yellow, blue, green and bronze feathers, it lives amongst the thick rainforest on the slopes of the Mount Soufriére volcano.
Tobago's vivid national bird, the longbeaked scarlet ibis, at Caroni Swamp, where they flock home to roost each evening Other great bird watching spots include Anegada in the British Virgin Islands, for the chance to see slender pink flamingos; Montserrat’s verdant interior for the pretty and rare Montserrat Oriel, and the ponds and wetlands of Anguilla, where flocks of birds ranging from osprey to iridescent hummingbirds take rest. The Cayman Islands' most famous resident is scaled rather than feathered – the blue dragon. This astonishing iguana was almost extinct at the start of the century but now you’ll find them scampering happily around the
explore Jamaica's rivers 52
Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park on Grand Cayman. The blue-grey reptile has a distinguished spikey crest running down its body and tail and turns azure blue if it’s in the mood. You can even book onto a Blue Iguana Warden Experience, joining the team who look after the lizards, helping to maintain their semiwild habitats and feeding them. If furry creatures are more your thing then head to St. Kitts or neighbouring Nevis, which are home to vervet and green monkeys. The mischievous apes can be found in
You'll find thousands of Trinidad and
Yves Alarie at Unsplash
WILDLIFE WATCHING There 565 species of birds in the Caribbean, and Trinidad and Tobago alone is home to 482 of them. The islands are less than 500 miles from Venezuela and have diverse habitats including rainforest, wetlands and savannahs. Their most famous feathered resident – and the country's national bird – is the scarlet ibis and you’ll find thousands of these vivid, long beaked birds at Trinidad's Caroni Swamp, where they flock home to roost each evening. On sister island Tobago there
caribbean
the rich forests as well as hanging out on golf courses and at the Nisbet Plantation Beach Club. URBAN ESCAPES You don’t have to enter the wild to enjoy the Caribbean beyond the beach. The islands have fascinating cultural centres, influenced by various colonial invaders as well as the enslaves Africans they bought. While the Cuban capital of Havana is probably the most famous in the region, the Dominican Republic’s capital, Santo Domingo, offers the same crumbling colonial charm. The cobbled streets are edged by faded pastel casas with wrought iron balconies. Sun wrinkled senior citizens slap dominos down on wonky tables and merengue music blasts out of the corner shops. You can visit the oldest cathedral still standing in the western hemisphere here, Catedral Primada de América, which dates back to 1514. Other atmospheric Caribbean cities include Willemstad in Curacao, with its brightly-painted Dutch townhouses and leafy squares, and San Juan in Puerto Rico, where the monumental castle of San Felipe del Morro guards the historic old town’s rainbow buildings
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Keeping an eagle eye
Xx xxx xx
The RSPB has partnered with several Caribbean wildlife trusts to help them protect the rich bird life in the region rspb.org.uk
Iana Andreeva at Unsplash
caribbean
SANTO DOMINGO, PUERTO RICO
and shaded plazas, now stuffed with cocktail bars and salsa clubs. When it comes to musical culture, nowhere in the Caribbean is more significant than Jamaica – the birthplace of Bob Marley and reggae in general. In Kingston you’ll find the Bob Marley Museum. And the Trench Town Culture Yard, built around his teenage home, has even more Rasta and reggae artefacts, including the beat-up old VW van used by Marley and the Wailers when they toured the island in the 1960s. After sunset you can grab some jerk chicken at Tracks and Records bar and then hit the Kingston Dub Club up in the hills to dance the night away. IMBIBE THE VIBE Eating and drinking is one of the best ways to get in touch with Caribbean culture. The region’s lively markets are a great place to start, by tasting some of the sun-warmed tropical fruits on display. Eating out can vary from a roadside shack to a Michelin-star hotel restaurant.
Explore the islands.
Feel the LOVE. There’s something special in the BVI breeze. It’s an energy that is picked up by the wind and carried throughout each of our 60 islands, islets, and atolls. Once you feel it for yourself, you’ll understand what makes every day here so extraordinary.
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CHARITABLE.TRAVEL Tortola | Virgin Gorda | Jost Van Dyke | Anegada | Cooper Island | Guana Island Little Thatch | Necker Island | Norman Island | Peter Island | Saba Rock | Scrub Island
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GET A KICK Thrill seeking activities are not confined to the beach in the Caribbean. If you’ve seen the movie Cool Runnings (based on the true story of the Jamaican bobsled team in the 1988 Winter Olympics) you'll love Jamaica’s Mystic Mountain. Here you can ride your own bobsled on rails, 1,000 metres downhill through the rainforest. Other activities for adrenaline junkies include white water rafting on the Dominican Republic’s wild Río Yaque del Norte, or flying through the jungle like Tarzan in Antigua – where a jungle canopy tour lets you explore the treetops via ten thrilling ziplines, nine rope challenges and two suspension bridges. There are more sedate ways to sightsee too. The St Kitts Scenic Railway was built in the early 1900s for transporting sugar cane from plantations but today you can sit in its open-top cars as you meander through rainforests
e th
? an
Every Friday in Barbados, as the sun sets, locals and tourists gather at the famous Fish Fry in Oistins to feast on grilled fish, listen to live music and sip chilled beers. Grenada is dubbed the Spice Island thanks to the abundance of edible plants it grows, notably nutmeg and chocolate. You can visit the Belmont Estate to see how cocoa is grown along with other fragrant spices, or visit the Grenada Chocolate Company to taste the finished product. Of course, no Caribbean island is without its fair share of rum and you can see it at source on many. Family-owned Topper's Rhum on Sint Maarten has tours and tastings of its many inventive flavours like white chocolate raspberry. If you’re teetotal, or hungover, you will appreciate the misty peaks of Jamaica’s Blue Mountains, famed for the premium coffee grown on its steep slopes and picked by hand. Head to Mavis Bank Coffee Factory to see the process from bean to cup.
t cy a rip to
caribbean
and across plunging canyons, enjoying entertainment from a capella choir and a rum punch. Wherever you are in the Caribbean, you can always end the day with a dip in the sea and a rum punch – but you’ll never regret spending time beyond the beach.
rock climbing in Dominic
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A COLOMBIAN
coffee break Mark Bibby Jackson travels to Colombia to sample its coffee and discover the magical landscape that inspired Disney’s
Icons from www.flaticon.com - Quote marks by Elias Bikbulatov
latest hit film, Encanto Blessed with fertile and everchanging landscapes, Colombia is one of the most biodiverse countries in the world but it’s most famous for its coffee. The country’s official coffee region, or Eje Cafetero, sits west of the capital Bogota and south of the city of Medellin and produces over half of the country’s sought-after beans. Part of Eje Cafetero is Valle del Cocora, a green Eden that has recently achieved fame for inspiring the backdrop for the Disney film Encanto. Sitting at about 2,400 metres above sea level, Cocora lies in a stretch of Andean Cloud Forest. Fortunately for me when I visited, the clouds had lifted sufficiently to allow me to appreciate the breath-taking scenery. The land is dominated by huge quindío wax palm trees, the tallest species of palm in the world. The following day we drove into Santa Rosa de Cabal for a food tour
of the old market. I bought a borojo juice drink from Don Francisco, who was tending his stall at the ripe age of 63. Though this brown native fruit doesn’t look particularly appealing, its flesh is sweet and tart and the drink is named ‘love juice’ for its purported aphrodisiac qualities! Daniel Felipe, the head chef at Hacienda Santa Clara, where I was staying, charged me with collecting the ingredients for sancocho en leña, a traditional soup of corn, root vegetables and meat to be cooked on an open fire in the grounds of the hotel. A vital part of the culture of the region, the making of sancocho usually involves the whole family. While waiting for our meal to simmer, I followed Pascual, the hacienda’s resident Great Dane, to a small stream just below the hotel. In this idyllic spot, surrounded by large bamboo trees called guadua, I listened to the many birds singing.
In the afternoon we drove to Finca del Café. Set up by husband and wife team José and Maria seven years ago, the finca is a hotel and the seven hectares it sits in are a coffee farm. This blend of coffee and tourism means José and Maria are less vulnerable to fluctuating coffee prices and gives visitors like me the chance to see the process of making coffee from bean to cup. We picked the fruit, which Maria roasted in their small kitchen and then allowed us to grind. Finally, José made the freshest cup of coffee I’ve ever had and the perfect conclusion to my Colombian coffee break. charitable.travel/travelbegins-at-40
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Top ten
FAMILY HOLIDAYS Ally Ware
Charitable Travel’s rounds up ten holidays you can book with Charitable Travel that kids and parents will love, with experiences ranging from lazing by the pool to meeting elephants
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ALSACE-LORRAINE WITH LE BOAT Ally says: “A boating holiday is a great way of combining activity and relaxation and kids love the adventure of visiting new places each day.” Le Boat offers self-drive boating holidays in nine European countries and its motor vessels fit up to 12 people, with cosy cabins and a scenic sundeck. The pretty Alsace-Lorraine region in north-east France has a good mix of town and country. Highlights include Strasbourg, with its Grimm’s fairy tale-style wooden houses, flowery cobbled streets and chocolate shops. And Germany’s biggest theme park, Europa Park, is easily reached.
WESTIN DRAGONARA RESORT, MALTA Ally says: “You need never leave this hotel, but don’t miss Malta’s golden beaches and atmospheric cities.” This five-star hotel sits on its own peninsula in lively St Julian’s, 15 minutes from the capital Valetta. There’s a heated pool indoors, two outdoor pools, the Bay View beach lido, and Jacuzzis. Rooms are spacious and there’s a kids club, tennis courts, a water sports centre and three restaurants. A Mercury Holidays package includes three days’ car hire for £25. Be sure to visit Popeye Village, a film set from the 1980 musical which is now a fun day out.
ABORA INTERCLUB ATLANTIC BY LOPESAN HOTELS, GRAN CANARIA
Ally says: “Kids will be enthralled by the aqua park and adults will love the sunny style and great value.” Jet2holidays has all-inclusive packages to this kid-focused resort in San Agustin. The décor is stylish and there are buffet and a la carte restaurants as well as snack bars and a mini mart. Facilities include four pools (one adult-only), an aqua park with slides and splash games, an adventure play area, a kids’ club for four to 12 year olds, a games rooms and a gym. Sports on offer range from basketball to yoga. A sandy beach and lively resort is next door.
CYCLE NORFOLK WITH INNTRAVEL
Ally says: “Easy-going roads and amazing beaches make this a great choice for active families.” This six-night trip is great for families with older children, and the gently rolling landscape makes it easy going. Starting in Snettisham and ending in Blakeney or Cley, the trip includes stays in a country pub, a historic hotel next to a grand estate and a Victorian guest house. Highlights include pretty villages with flint pebble cottages (including Anmer, home to Prince William), an Iron Age fort, Cley Nature Reserve and the vast sandy beach of Holkham, backed by colourful huts. BOOKINGS@CHARITABLE.TRAVEL / RESERVATIONS: 020 3092 1288
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family holidays
LAPLAND WITH INGHAMS Ally says: “Young children and parents will treasure the magic memory of meeting Father Christmas and his reindeers in his snowy home.” Inghams offers three- and four-night breaks in Levi, in Finnish Lapland and even lends you thermal suits and boots. You get a private audience with Santa himself and visit his elves, helping them bake gingerbread, as well as making decorations and meeting Comet the reindeer. Optional activities include visits to husky and reindeer farms, sleigh rides, a snowmobile safari or skiing. Accommodation varies according to your budget.
SRI LANKA & THE MALDIVES WITH EXPLORE Ally says: “This dream family holiday combines hectic but fascinating Sri Lanka with some down time in the Maldives.” This 15-day holiday (five in the Maldives) is a stress-free adventure. The activities are fun and educational, including safaris, climbing the rock fortress of Sigiriya and visiting an elephant sanctuary in Sri Lanka. In the Maldives you’ll board a traditional Dhoni boat for four nights, with the chance to sleep under the stars and snorkel over coral reefs. Transport ranges from jeep, train and plane, to tuk tuk, bullock cart and canoe, and accommodation includes a jungle hut and a tented camp.
AS GOOD AS IT GETS
Víctor Vázquez at Unsplash
Whether you’re dreaming of a silky beach on a private island, a stylish hotel in a vibrant city or a jungle trek to spy exotic wildlife, Charitable Travel Luxury will help you plan your ideal holiday and donate 5% of the price to a UK charity of your choice at no extra cost. Wherever it is, a luxury holiday always centres on discovering unique destinations and enjoying authentic experiences. With over 25 years’ experience in luxury travel and Charitable Travel’s #TravelForGood ethos at heart, our expert Lizzi is waiting to craft a trip that is your kind of luxury.
luxury@charitable.travel / 020 3092 2558 58
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family holidays
JORDAN WITH INTREPID
Ally says: Adults and children will both be channelling Indiana Jones on this bucket list trip.” An eight-day journey starting in Jordan’s capital Amman and ending in the Dead Sea, this trip will keep the kids busy. They can get a history lesson at the ancient desert tombs of Petra and the Roman ruins of Jerash. Religious Studies will be a doddle after they see the original Dead Sea Scrolls, and P.E is covered as they snorkel in the Red Sea. Cultural highlights include sleeping in a Bedouin tent in the desert.
A LUXURY ZAMBIA SAFARI WITH CARRIER Ally says: “An African safari is something kids will never forget, as they witness the savage beauty of nature.” Tour operator Carrier recommends Shumba Camp for families in Zambia. Meaning ‘lion’, the remote lodge sits on its own island in the Busanga Plains, a savannah threaded with watery channels in Kafue National Park. As well as lion prides, you will have the chance to spot zebra, buffalo, hippo, cheetah and wild dogs. The camp has six luxurious tents and a pool. Dining is under the shade of fig trees or by the campfire boma.
THE VILLAS AT STONEHAVEN, TOBAGO Ally says: These cute cottages are perfect for luxury loving families who want to be nestled in nature but still get their creature comforts.” Caribtours recommends these two- or three-bedroom villas for families. They come with a kitchen, living/dining room, a veranda and a private infinity pool and sea view terrace. You have a housekeeper to shop and prepare meals for you, or you can self-cater. Spa treatments are offered in-villa and there are tennis and fitness facilities. Birdwatching, hiking, snorkelling or nearby Stonehaven Bay Beach’s bars and eateries will entertain.
TROPICAL BEACH RESORTS, FLORIDA Ally says: “You can’t beat Florida for a family holiday and Sarasota has old-fashioned charm in spades.” The Tropical Beach Resorts’ collection of boutique hotels – Tropical Shores, Tropical Sun, Sara Sea and Conclare – are just steps from Siesta Key’s world-famous Crescent Beach, lauded for its quartz-crystal powdery sand. Rooms come with self catering facilities but nearby Siesta Key Village is full of cute shops, cafes and restaurants in colourful buildings. There’s a free trolley to get around the island and explore. Don’t miss Turtle Beach, backed by delicate dunes home to shambling gopher tortoises.
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JAPAN RECORDED FEWER CARBON EMISSIONS IN THE LAST FINANCIAL
Book a ho l
good news
e at
GLOBAL
nd do ay a n id
Health & wellness
MENOPAUSE RETREATS IN THE MALDIVES As a national shortage of hormone replacement therapy is reported in the UK, the resort of Amilla Maldives has announced it will launch menopause-focused wellbeing retreats. Naturopath and wellness coach Claire O’Sullivan will host five-day retreats from June 23 to
YEAR THAN AT ANY
July 7 this year. The personalised wellbeing journeys will explore
POINT SINCE
manage their symptoms through movement, nutrition and mindful
RECORDS
talks and intuitive dance – all accompanied by balanced meals.
natural ways to boost female hormones while empowering women to activities. Activities include yoga, meditation, breathwork, masterclass
BEGAN, ACCORDING TO ITS GOVERNMENT
competition
MALDIVES GARDENER NEEDED Icons from www.flaticon.com - Megaphone speaker by Ayub Irawan; Web by Pixel perfect
A luxury resort group in the Maldives has launched a competition to find a Coral Reef Gardener. Cocoa Collection will fly the winner out to the Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu resort for a three-week placement this September, working alongside its Marine Educator to manage and foster coral growth in its house reefs. The lucky intern will also be gifted with some resort experiences, like a spa treatment. Submit a two to three minute video and a 500-word letter selling yourself before May 12 on the resort’s website.
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global good news
Green policy
Good to know...
new route
FLY TO BILLUND British Airways has resumed flights from Heathrow to Denmark’s Billund Airport, home to Legoland and gateway to the cycle-friendly Jutland peninsula and Denmark’s second largest city. Aarhus has one of the largest art museums in northern Europe and a thriving food scene. Jutland boasts vast sandy beaches, pretty towns with wood houses
rail travel
NEW TRAIN PARTNERSHIP INCREASES CONNECTIONS Two of Europe’s biggest train companies,
and cobbled streets and
Eurostar and French/Belgium Thalys, which
a new Hans Christian
also operates in the Netherlands and Germany,
Andersen museum on
are merging to expand services in Europe.
the island of Fuen.
The deal means British passengers could
fun events
connect to Germany by rail for the first time.
JAMAICA IS 60 Jamaica is celebrating 60 years of independence in 2022. A programme of cultural events is
Potential routes would include Cologne (which would take five and a half hours), Dusseldorf, Essen, Aachen and Dortmund. It could also open connections to Bordeaux in France and Antwerp and Liege in Belgium.
planned throughout
U.S President Joe Biden has reversed a Trump era policy to restore federal rules which mean large infrastructure projects, like highways, pipelines and oil wells, need environmental reviews to assess their impacts on climate change and American communities.
the year, including what will be Jamaica’s first summer Carnival as it moves from April to July.
new flights
JET2 LINKS TO ITALIAN ISLANDS Jet2 will start new
Wildlife
RHINOS RETURN TO MOZAMBIQUE The East African country is soon to be home to rhinos
flights into Sardinia
for the first time since
and Sicily this May. The
they disappeared from
Sardinia flights will leave from Manchester and Stansted and the Sicily service from Leeds Bradford, Manchester and Stansted. Package holidays via Jet2holidays will also be on offer, with a variety of resorts in each destination.
Mozambique over 40 years ago. Around 40 black and white rhinos will be relocated from South Africa to Zinave National Park, which is also home to cheetahs, lions, elephants and buffalo. The park was ravaged by civil war and poaching but a rewilding project was implemented in 2016.
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global good news
world first
The Canadian province of Quebec is the first jurisdiction in the world to ban exploring for and producing oil and gas. Public financing for fossil fuel projects has also been outlawed.
Slow travel
MAY IS FOR WALKING Slow travel specialist Inntravel is marking National Walking Month this May by launching an online guide for new walkers. The company found that many of its new customers this season have never actually been on a walking holiday – possibly the new recruits fell in love with walking after the lockdown. The guide is packed with practical tips covering everything f rom how terrain is graded to what to pack for a hiking holiday. Inntravel has three new trips: Guernsey, Herm and Sark, Wonders of Western Sicily, and the Quiet Side of the Italian Riviera.
Providing quality education and sustainable livelihoods to communities in Nepal, Tanzania, and India. 62 MAY/JUNE 2022
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