Charitable Traveller May/June 2022 - Issue 10

Page 47

t

Book a

a

Postcard from

to Eston i rip

Tallinn’s old city dates back to the 13th century

folk songs and joining hands to form a 400 mile human chain, linking Tallinn to Vilnius in Lithuania.

Digital nation

Estonia is a forward-thinking country where digital rules (even voting is online) but art flourishes. Tallinn still has its Russian-influenced orthodox churches with

Former submarine shipyard, Port Noblessner, is home to the

pretty pastels

© Marek Metslaid

Unsplash

lively Pohjala craft brewery

Eryka Ragna at

If you’ve been seduced by Prague or Budapest, you’ll love the terracotta turrets, medieval apothecaries and candlelit taverns of Tallinn. But Estonia has its own personality. The singsong lilt of its language, the black bread and herring sandwiches and the clapboard houses appear Scandinavian. But peel back the layers, like a babushka doll, and you’ll discover the Russian influence. The pretty pink baroque facade of Kadriog Palace, built by Tsar Peter I, is at stark odds with the austere Patareil Prison that squats beside the chilled steel-grey Baltic harbour, a reminder of Estonia’s not-so-distant Soviet past. The KGB Museum gives a chilling sense of life under occupation and is located in Hotel Viru, which housed both foreigners and spies in a time of paranoia. Estonia has been occupied by Danes, Swedes and Russians, but independence followed the Singing Revolution. Two months before the Berlin Wall came crashing down, thousands of citizens staged a peaceful protest, singing forbidden

© Rasmus Jurkatam

Icons from www.flaticon.com - Postcard by Freepik; Web by Pixel perfect

Split personality

Karson at Unsplash

TALLINN By Laur Gelder

For great views of Tallinn’s terracotta turrets, walk along its ancient walls

summer nights

their onion domes and glittering relics, but most people prefer to worship the Estonian way, via nature. I hopped on a bike to explore. Starting on the bone-shaking cobbles of the old town, I pedalled to the old fishing community of Kalamaja where the Telliskivi Creative City’s old factories now house over 200 hip indie businesses selling everything from truffles to hand made ceramics. Hungry, I headed back to Old Town for dinner. It’s so far north that summer nights stay light but at Olde Hansa they batten down the hatches for a medieval feast of wild boar and rabbit stew, washed down with fiery black pepper schnapps. When I left at midnight the sky was still violet.

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