GastroVation INITIAL Brief

gastroVATION

GASTRO Vation PROVENANCE THROUGH PROCUREMENT BRIEFING DOCUMENT

“Food is an intrinsic and defining element of a city’s identity. Its smells, textures and tastes manifest a city’s cultural heritage, define its social habits and bring joviality to its streets.”

CJ Lim Food City

0

LA CARTE

CONTENTS

VISION SITE PREVIOUS WORK AMBITION PRECEDENT ROOM BOOK REFLECTION Thoughts on food security

Smithfield overview, future, proposals and general arrangement

Summarry of projects One and Two

Overview of proposal objectives

Elbulli Foundation and de Kas

Initial programme

01

ENTRÉE

FOOD CONSERVATION: VISION AND OUTLINE OF OBJECTIVES

“They source their lunch from that lovely chap just down the road, who keeps only seven pigs and knows them all by name, and holds them dear, until the time comes to give them an aromatherapy massage, crank up the Vivaldi and slaughter them under general anesthetic.

They eat whatever the season is bountiful enough to supply. They till their own land by hand, and don’t even know where the nearest supermarket is.

You meanwhile have a proper job, and kids to look after, and the bills to pay, and god knows money’s too tight to mention. Who the hell are they to lecture you?”

Jay Rayner “A Greedy Man In A Hungry World” 2014

Food security is an increasing problem for the developed and developing world, with populations due to explode and agricultural land increasingly strained. A new approach to feeding ourselves is required, based on a better understanding of food supplies and a more responsible approach to waste.

01

ENTRÉE

A NEW DEFINITION FOR WEALTH

“As he sat on his balcony eating the dog, Dr Robert Laing reflected on the unusual events that had taken place within this huge apartment building during the previous three months.”

JG Ballard “High Rise - Critical Mass” 1975

1 BN STARVING

9.7 BN

1BN OBESE Global Population by 2050

Defining New Wealth: -Green space [shoots] -Clean air [livers] -Food security [bread]

Chicken Liver Two Ways Invention of author

01

ENTRÉE

FOOD WASTE: CONSERVATION

“It’s not just about how we produce the food we eat; its about how much of that food we’re consuming - or not consuming as the case may be.”

Jay Rayner “A Greedy Man In A Hungry World” 2014

40%

12%

food recycled

of all fruit and vegetables are wasted for largely cosmetic reasons.

40%

is carbohydrates, an essential source of energy in the developing world

1/2

of people under 24 never cook from scratch

1 2

41% Bakery

3 4

FOOD WASTE 45%

21%

5 6 7

21% Fruit + Vegetables

Preparation

spoilage

1/2 34%

1/3

of all food waste could be eaten

thrown away from plate

of UK meals are pre-prepared

There is huge potential to re-use waste from parts of the supply chain and to reduce wastage in others.

02

AMUSE-BOUCHE

SMITHFIELD: REINFORCING PLACE 2

1

3

4 8

7

6 5 1. Barbican 2. New Change 3. St Pauls 4. Old Bailey 5. Hattan gardens 6. Farringdon Station and Crossrail entrance 7.Crossrail entrance 8. Charterhouse Square

hectares - Old Billingsgate Market hectares - Borough Market hectares - Covent Garden

hectares - Smithfield Market

1

2

4

3

5

Grid

1. Meat Market 2. Rotunda 3. Poultry Market 4. Site 5. Holborn Viaduct

Permeability

Figure Ground

02

AMUSE-BOUCHE

SMITHFIELD: A MEAT MARKET Restaurants Shops Domestic

Procurement

Processing

Charlie Harris

1000

140

years of markets on the site

29

years in its current state

Traders

Smithfield is Europe’s largest licensed meat market. Market traders purchase carcasses, cut them on-site, package and re-sell the meat to trade and domestic customers.

Historically, livestock had been brought to Smithfield, slaughtered and processed there, providing a forced association between the customer and means of production.

Today, despite it’s location, Smithfield fails to benefit sufficiently from its provenance, as the restrictive and largely nocturnal opening hours prevent most domestic customers from being able to access it.

“Thus, urban environments can be considered a fascinating phenomenon of ongoing dispute between different groups, a hub of conflictive economic and cultural exchanges in a highly artificialised and constructed environment.”

Christina Díaz and Efrén García Grinda “Third Natures” AD Magazine 2013

02

FUTURE OF SMITHFIELD

A MARKET OUT-DATED?

Clerkenwell green

Stills from Project One - Smithfield on Film [see QR code opposite for more information] Smithfield

Rotunda

It is doubtful that the market will survive in its current capacity. The original General Market and Annex have already closed and are due for [heated] re-development. Once Farringdon Crossrail is completed the pressure to re-locate the traders will be even greater.

1400

Paternoster square

0600

In terms of capacity utilisation, having such a large scheme closed during the working day, in central London, is open to a great deal of scrutiny.

Tate Modern

St. Pauls

Smithfield is at odds with its surroundings. It is in an area dominated by accountants, bankers and barristers.

Operating a wholesale meat processing market within such a context is somewhat archaic, a concept born from when there was a far greater connection between the city and its food supply.

MARKET TRADERS

CITY WORKERS

HAULAGE

COMMUTERS

Other than a few bleary-eye clubbers, few people have any idea about he nocturnal world inside Smithfield Market.

“We’re not interested in the move... We just have to change with the times.”

Trader

The new Farringdon Crossrail link when completed will have 140 trains per hour and connection to three airports within an hour. It can be seen as London’s check-in-lounge.

02

SMITHFIELD: MCASLAN

DEVELOPMENT PROPOSALS

Both the General Market and Market Annex are currently closed and in need of major refurbishment. Proposals from both Thornfield Properties and McAslan and Partners have been submitted, both of which have become hugely politicised and eventually rejected. SAVE have released a (unrealistic) alternative proposal for reinstating the market to its original use.

The McAslan scheme featured a mixture of retail and hospitality spaces, with commercial office space above. The scheme proposed keeping and restoring most of the existing street façades, whilst new interventions were to be clad in weathering steel louvers.

As the most realistic development proposals, McAslan’s scheme will be adopted for the General Market building.

General Market

McAslan’s General market Proposal [above] will be adopted as immediate context for the scheme.

Market Annex

02

SMITHFIELD: MARKET ANNEX SITE CONDITIONS

SMITHFIELD STREET

The Market Annex was completed in the 1880’s and forms the final phase of Horace Jones’ market complex, instigated after the closure of the open cattle market in 1855.

The Market Annex is currently derelict. It was a fish market and then became stores and administrative offices for the General Market and Meat Markets. Under the initial phases of the markets re-development the Annex has been stripped out at ground floor level, with offices left more or less unchanged on the first floor.

It is a triangular (two storey) site, contained within three top-lit arcades.

“Can old form retain its significance when the activities of the city itself have changed radically? Can a modern architectural form be successfully woven into an older architectural fabric?.”

Giancarlo de Calro Interview with Benedict Zucchi 1992

SITE

1855

open cattle market closed

1880’s

Market opens

2005

closed, pending demolition

2007

public enquiry

2012

McAslan scheme submitted

2015

Harris proposals submitted

Market Annex internal montage

02

SMITHFIELD SITE SECTION

The “New London Pub” and Fullers distribution hub will be retained.

1 4

1. City of London coat of arms 2.Blind and bricked-up openings 3. Portland Stone dressings 4. Double-hung sash dormer windows 5. Classical column detailing 6. Panel mouldings

6

3

2

5

The Horace Jones designed facades of the Annex are classically detailed and french in style.

1:500

02

GENERAL ARRANGEMENT

SITE SURVEY

Porosity

Permeability

There is no direct connection to the basement, so the plan as been omitted.

Snow Hill

West Smithfield

ow Sn

West Smithfield

Hi

ll

Ground Floor

1:500

02

SMITHFIELD: MARKET ANNEX FACADE STUDIES

03

AMUSE BOUCHE

PROJECT ONE

Opening hours are Dependant to supply of fruit and vegetable and demand in a specific area. The opening and closing of side panels reveals how much stock is available at any time.

“Consumers don’t want ugly fruit, because [they] are not familiar with it.”

Moritz Gluck UglyFruits.de

40%

90,000 Tonnes

Globally 40% of misshapen fruit and vegetables are wasted. In the UK this amounts to 90000 tons of landfill waste per annum. Addressing this is an essential part of our global food security challenge.

The second part of Project One was a kiosk design. The kiosk fed into the fruit and vegetable supply chain, selling damaged and deformed vegetables that would otherwise have been wasted. The architecture was formed minimal and open, allowing the products on sale to become the focal point. The design allowed for relocation, based on demand and availability.

Setting up and re-locating the kiosk

The architecture is formed by the fruit boxes of the wares sold. One day it may be flowing out onto the street and the next only a few small crates.

03

AMUSE BOUCHE

PROJECT TWO

A New London Pub, bringing the customer face-to-face with the story of the pint in their hand. The pub featured a distribution hub for Fullers beer, with a shared public realm space between patrons and dray horses.

The diagram opposite shows the routes taken by dray horses from the distribution hub opposite the pub to central London Fullers pubs [within a 2.5km radius]

04

PLAT PRINCIPAL

AMBITION

Using food as the medium for interrogating waste in our current supply and distribution systems, a commercial kitchen will feed into localised sources of waste food, processing it into packed meals and re-distributing them via the supply chain in place through the pubs drays. The scheme will bring reinforce provenance through celebrating the process of procurement and distribution.

The approach of optimising efficiency through conservation will equally be applied to the built fabric, respecting the essence of Horace Jones’ original scheme. As such, a public spectacle will be made, through an open kitchen, respecting the romance of the original market as a publicly engaging thoroughfare. The Annex will once again become a critical node within the gastronomic supply chain.

“With architecture so often famed as a technocratic discipline, it is perhaps not surprising that responses to the perceived dangers revolve around technical fixes. This is an approach that holds out the promise of escape, while leaving the underlying conditions untouched.”

Jon Goodbun, Jeremy Till and Deljana Lossifova “Scarcity” AD Vol. 218

Re-thinking waste: Cows Foot Croquettes Invention of author

04

FOOD + CONSERVATION

DEALING WITH WASTE RESOURCES

Montage of a scheme inserted into the existing thoroughfares of the Annex

Replacement

pa

Re te nt io

Re

n

CONSERVATION

ir

“In an area of this diversity, heritage and character, the process of intensification must be carefully managed and a conservation led approach adopted.�

The London Plan

04

PROCUREMENT

THE PROBLEMS OF SUPPLY

“The disconnection between consumer and producer is more pronounced than ever before, both physiologically and ideologically.”

CJ Lim Food City

Continuing from David Knight’s workshop, the scheme should be a celebration of its locality, building upon the character and systems in place.

Strawberries Vanilla Balsamic Vinegar Mint Cream

EGYPTIAN MADAGASCAN ITALIAN SPANISH BRITISH

Strawberries and Cream Invention of author

04

CONNECTIVITY

A SYSTEM WITHIN THE CITY

140 1.5 MILLION Trains per hour at Farringdon

more people within 1 1/2 hours

The Market Annex is ideally located as a node to feed into waste output and redistribute it with added value.

DISSEMINATING KNOWLEDGE: -Domestic -Restaurants -Catering -Food industry -Celebrity chefs -Policy

Meat Market

Supermarkets

Suppliers

Trade Every day in London 60 million meals are prepared. 12 million of those wasted could have been eaten, enough to feed Nottingham 6 times.

DISTRIBUTION: -Tied Pubs -Shops -Offices -Open Kitchen

Visitors

Workers

Residents

McAslan General Market

ÂŁ700

average cost of food waste per household

600,000

tonnes of food wasted

by TESCO per annum

04

PUBLIC ENGAGEMENT

AN OPEN KITCHEN

The open kitchen or “chef’s table” offers a degree of openness and transparency not usually afforded to the production of food. As such it brings together processes and output holistically. As well as supplying and packaging meal, the kitchen will provide meals on-site allowing visitors to become connected with the processes around them.

Marlin Ceviche - Invention of author

Marlin Ceviche - Invention of author

Chefs table restaurant

“One of the corrupting things about the contemporary idea of luxury gastronomy is that it can erode the sense of place. At times it is as guilty of this as fast food restaurants and chain hotels.”

John Lancaster “Mugaritz”

Chicken Heart and Chips with Salad Invention of author

04

Montage showing proposed activities on the site.

05

HORS D’OEUVRES

PRECEDENT

Feran Adria in El Bulli Foundation Wired Magazine 2012

[Left] El Bulli Foundation run by chef Ferran Adria is now focusing purely on development of techniques and processes. There will be a museum dedicated to their dishes and unique processes.

De Kas restaurant in Amsterdam is situated inside a disused greenhouse.

Instead of demolishing it, the chefs decided to reinstate the essence of fresh produce, serving only what is available that day. As such there is no menu, customers often have no idea as to what they will be served, dishes are created in response to the prevailing conditions of seasonality and supply.

Adria has recently started developing Bullipedia, a categorisation of all gastronomic knowledge. The aim is to promote better practice through collaboration.

De kas restaurant main dining room dekas.nl

De kas restaurant greenhouses dekas.nl

04

“Heritage�

Creation of author

ADJACENCIES

SPATIAL RELATIONSHIPS

The dish shows a central and visible kitchen (egg) inserted into the built fabric (red). The heritage carrot strips represent the Iron Mountain, fixed in it position and function as stables.

Turnips are used to represent storage and are clearly visible.

Some ancillary space is hidden (bread).

Green space is included wherever possible.

1

2

2b

2a

2c

5

4a

6

4

4b

1. Stable Block 2. Stable Ancillary

(a) Tack Room

(b) Farriers

(c) Feed store 3. Distribution Stores 4.Kitchen

(a) Open Kitchen Dining

(b) Ambient stores

(c) Chilled Stores 5. W.C. 6. Staff

(a) Admin

(b) Staff Changing and Lockers

(c) Staff showers

4c

6a

6b

6c

5

Publicly Visible

Private

06

ROOM BOOK

SPACES AND SIZES

Stables on ground floor

214m2 503m2 Potential expansion space or public realm.

Fullers stores above

312

312m2 ancillary programme for horses

2 storey

m2

214 5 storey

m2

Floor area against number of storeys 1,193m2 Core space and kitchen location

1,193 75m

2

1:500

m2

2 storey

503 2 storey

m2

Diagrams show upper and lower limits of room sizes.

Refer to apendices for complete list of rooms and areas.

CULINARY BREWERS

kitchens

ANCILLARY

EQUESTRIAN

Brewers stores

Stables (six)

open kitchen

staff

Pub

Groom accomodation

stores (each)

Loading Garden

Tack Room

Feed Stores

Farriers

1:200 Not visible to public WC

Cycle Storage Pubicly Accessible

Private (but visible)

07

DESSERT

REFLECTION

Reading of place has always been central to the development of the project, with De Carlo’s question on how to deal with existing fabric being critical. Interrogating architecture with food seemed appropriate given the context. This began with a catering college, delivering ideals of sustainable gastronomy to professionals and disseminating it to domestic cooks. Understanding the importance of provenance delivered in this way the project took on a new angle, drawing on the New London Pub and its function of bringing together customer and supplier, this manifested itself in a knowledge bank centralised around an open kitchen.

The success of project one in feeding into existing supply chains and extracting food waste prompted a new question; Can the production, processing and distribution of food reinforce the sense of place and raise awareness and understanding of the systems taking place to get then there?

“Smithfield to Tate Modern” Green Tea Panna Cotta, Strawberry Coulis, Pistachio Crumb and Chantilly Creation of author

07

CAFÉ

REFERENCES + APENDICES

Room Schedule CODE

DESCRIPTION

AREA LOWER

AREA UPPER

PUBLIC/PRIVATE

A_01

PUBLIC

Kitchens Main

100

150

A_02

Open Kitchen

50

50

PUBLIC

A_03

Kitchen Stores Ambient

10

20

PRIVATE

A_04

Kitchen Stores Ambient

10

20

PRIVATE

40

60

PRIVATE

A_05

Kitchen Staff facilities (total)

A_05_A

Showers

10

15

PRIVATE

A_05_B

Offices

20

30

PRIVATE

A_05_C

Lockers

10

15

PRIVATE

B_01

Stable 1

16

16

PUBLIC

B_02

Stable 2

16

16

PUBLIC

B_03

Stable 3

16

16

PUBLIC

B_04

Stable 4

16

16

PUBLIC

B_05

Stable 5

16

16

PUBLIC

B_06

PUBLIC

Stable 6

16

16

B_07

Tack Room

30

30

PRIVATE

B_08

Feed Stores

15

20

PRIVATE

B_09

Farriers

17

20

PUBLIC

B_10

Groom Accomodation (total)

85

85

PRIVATE

B_10_A

Groom Bedroom

25

25

PRIVATE

B_10_B

Groom Bathroom

15

15

PRIVATE

B_10_C

Groom Kitchen/Dining

45

45

PRIVATE

C_01

Brewers Stores

80

120

PRIVATE

D_01

WC

70

70

PUBLIC

http://www.theguardian.com/environment/2014/sep/18/world-population-new-study-11bn-2100 (06/01/2015) http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/overview-waste-hospitality-and-food-service-sector (07/01/2015) http://www.foodawarecic.org.uk/stats-2/ (13-01-15) http://england.lovefoodhatewaste.com/content/about-food-waste-1 (13/01/15) http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-24603008 (16/01/15) http://www.ted.com/talks/carolyn_steel_how_food_shapes_our_cities?language=en (16/01/2015) http://www.wired.co.uk/magazine/archive/2012/10/features/staying-creative-ferran-adrià (17/01/15) http://hackingbullipedia.org/bullipedia3-2 (17/01/15) “Quay” – Peter Gilmore “Mugartiz” – Andoni Aduriz “Notes” – Rene Redzepi “Historic Heston” – Heston Blumenthal “Cook it Raw” – “Larousse Gastronomique” “Food City” – CJ Lim “A Greedy Man in a Hungry World” - Jay Rayner “Hungry City” – Carolyn Steel “Urban Food Revolution” – Peter Ladner “Scarcity” – AD Vol. 218 “System City” – AD Vol. 224 McAslan 2012 Smithfield Proposal Farringdon East Over development Proposal British Horse Society guide to keeping horses Farrels Smithfield Farringdon survey Thanks to: Warren McFadden, Unit Head Robert Edwards at Robert Edwards Meats Tony and Sarah Lethbridge at The Kings Arms Hotel