Dissertation Presentation

(Vogue Business, 2020)

How do our fibre choices impact biodiversity?

A study on man-made cellulosic fibre production, effects on biodiversity and consumer awareness

(Common Objective, 2020)

(Common Objective, 2020)

Agenda - Objectives

- Consumer analysis

- Biodiversity & its importance

- Focus groups

- Biodiversity within sustainability

- Interview

- Man-made cellulosic fibres

- Limitations

- Companies

- Conclusion

- Case studies

- Recommendations

Objectives 1.

Define what biodiversity is, why it matters and where it fits in the discussion of sustainability

2. Analyse the production of man-made cellulosic fibres and possible effects on biodiversity 3. Explore what measures companies using man-made cellulosic fibres already have in place to combat biodiversity loss 4. Study UK consumer groups to gauge their awareness of biodiversity loss and subsequent trends in consumer behaviour

Biodiversity “The variety of all life on earth” (National Geographic, 2019)

Man-made cellulosic fibres are one of “the apparel sector’s five largest contributors to biodiversity loss” (Granskog et al., 2020)

Since 1970, mammals in forests who play an essential part in dispersing seeds for trees, have deteriorated by 53%.

(WWF, 2021a)

Less than 20% of the planet’s forests are left at a suitable size to support remaining biodiversity (Canopy, 2020)

Why is it important?

(WWF, 2021b)

“Around 1 million animal and plant species are now threatened with extinction” (UN, 2019)

Global population of people increased from 2.5 billion in 1950 to 7.8 billion in 2020 with a predicted further rise to 9.7 billion by 2050 (Statista, 2019)

(WWF, 2021c)

The fashion industry is forecast to use an extra 115 million hectares of land, forest and grassland by 2030, an increase of 35% (Eder-Hansen et al., 2017)

Within sustainability • Sustainability: “meeting human needs without overwhelming nature or society” (Muthu, 2017, p2) • Definitions open to interpretation – no legal governing • Biodiversity is a subset of sustainability • “Still emergent as an issue within the fashion industry” (The Fashion Pact, 2020) • ‘Urgent need’ for action within the fashion industry (International Union for Conservation of Nature 2016, cited in Plank 2020)

(H&M Group, 2021)

Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCF) • Manufactured fibres: cellulosic, protein, or synthetic • Cellulosic – derived from plants, mostly chemical process • MMCF second largest group of cellulosic fibres, second to cotton (natural rather than manufactured) • Key MMCFs: viscose, modal and lyocell (e.g. Lenzing Tencel™) • Often considered “environmentally friendly” but dependent on sourcing

Lyocell

Viscose

(Jha, et al., 2004)

(Muthu., 2017)

MMCF Innovations EcoPlanet Bamboo

(Fashion for Good, 2020)

Bamboo Monocel® Lenzing Refibra™ re:newcell Circulose® (Gullingsrud, 2017) (Fashion for Good, 2020)

(Elkaim, 2020)

Companies • Fashion Pact commits to ‘restoring biodiversity’ • Nothing to hold companies accountable for their commitments

(Fashion Revolution, 2021)

• Less than 1/3 of companies publish supplier policies on biodiversity and conservation (Fashion Revolution, 2020) • Fashion Revolution transparency index • Business of Fashion sustainability index • Changing Markets Foundation’s ‘Dirty Fashion’ campaign

(FashionUnited, 2019)

(Business of Fashion, 2021)

Case studies – ASOS and H&M

(Vogue – Newbold, 2018)

(WWD – Spencer, 2020)

(The Independent – Benson, 2020) (The Independent – Petter, 2020)

(Vogue Business – Wicker, 2020)

(Down to Earth – Mehar, 2021)

(ASOS, 2021)

(ASOS, 2021)

(H&M, 2021)

(H&M, 2021)

(H&M, 2021)

(H&M, 2021)

Consumer analysis 82% of men

90% of women

82% of women

aged 16-24

aged 16-24

aged 25-44

Agree that:

“Some fashion retailers are not genuine about being sustainable” (Mintel, 2020)

Consumer decision making • Customers initially influenced by internal and external factors • Circularity in decision making e.g. post purchase evaluation • Repurchase encourages trust and loyalty

(Schiffman and Kanuk, 2004)

Focus groups • Associate sustainable with “better for the environment” • Lack of interest/understanding due to lack of consistency across the industry • No participants use sustainable filters or look at fibre compositions • Purchase decisions based on experience, price and perception • Distrust in retailers’ sustainable messaging • Quickly develop/alter opinions on brands

Interview - Dr. Michael Burgass Director of the consultancy firm Biodiversify

• Defining biodiversity “more of an academic problem than a realworld problem” – not an issue in developing company strategies • Companies and consumers understand the concept of nature • Black or white outlook can be obstructive • Subjective trade-off decisions • Add biodiversity in as another pillar of existing strategies • Companies “don’t tend to consider” issues e.g. land use change

Limitations • Broad nature of topic – covered depth rather than width • Stores closed (e.g. H&M) – only option was review online offer • Analysed a selection of ranges due to high volumes of product • Only 2 focus groups (centred in SE England)

Conclusion • Biodiversity - emerging issue, conservation is crucial • Rate of deforestation is not sustainable • Not all MMCFs are equal and innovations are pushing sustainability of MMCFs further • Disparity of environmental impacts between different types of MMCF not clearly communicated • Consumers could not be relied on to drive change - led by retailers and incentivised by price • Unlikely a single brand would have a significant influence on tackling biodiversity loss

Recommendations • Approach to biodiversity must come from the top down • However, activism could push brands to engage in classification • Requires a sector wide response • Clearly define across industry to improve consumers’ understanding • Sustainability should be considered throughout the design process • Evaluate offering of man-made cellulosic fibres • Biodiversity should be built into existing company strategies

“Biodiversity: The next frontier in sustainable fashion” – McKinsey & Company (Granskog et al., 2020)

(Rainforest Action Network, 2015)