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Contents PAGE
3.
Introduction
PAGE 4-5.
Clothes Rationing
PAGE 6-7.
Make Do and Mend
PAGE 8-9.
Utility Clothing Scheme & Austerity Regulations
FIGURE 2. Innovation & Desperation: 8 1940s Fashion Secrets From World War 2 - 25th September 2017. By Lucy Adlington.
PAGE 10-11. 1940’s Influence on Todays fashion PAGE:12-13. WW2 Make Up PAGE 14-15. Conclusion PAGE 16-17. References
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FIGURE 1. AT AN ATS MOTOR TRANSPORT COMPANY TRAINING CENTRE, CAMBERLEY, SURREY, 1941
FIGURE 3. IWM LONDON
The era that birthed the idea of sustainability through the message of make do and mend. Not only did the people of the 1940’s take their daily medication, but they were also prescribed a daily dose of compulsory minimalism. I have chosen this era as I resonate the most with the morals and ideas of the time. Especially the repurposing and innovative side of things. The whole ideology of the time is coming back around and is more important now than ever. With the rate of global warming increasing, it is our job to do everything within our power to help. Fashion must play its part, just as it did in the 40’s. Whether that be adopting the make do and mend philosophy or controlling our buying habits to reduce mass consumption. Researching into the restrictions that Britain had to face during the 40’s, focusing specifically on the start of the era. Discussing the birth of the utility clothing scheme, mix and match, as well as the propaganda of fashion. Pushing myself into the deep end as I try to immerse myself in the experiences of a 1940’s woman.
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Practicality Take Over ... To begin with, I am going to mention the hard to ignore prevalence of uniform during the second world war. Something that marked the beginning of a new era, not only in fashion but history itself. With both men and women wearing uniform for the first time. A time that challenged the notion of what previously wasn’t deemed ladylike. This new proposal that not only the men were to be relied on for the more laborious tasks, meant a new and increased demand for uniform. With roughly a quarter of the British population required to wear uniform (IWM, n.d). Not only members of the armed forces were required to wear uniform. Other examples include the women’s auxiliary forces and members of the voluntary services and organizations. As a result leaving Britain’s clothing industries and their materials exhausted. As I learnt from the imperial war museum (IWM, n.d) But it wasn’t only the industry that were drowning, exhaustion of supplies trickled down to the civilians. Leaving the everyday civilian to go without, as all efforts and production were preserved for the services. 1941 on the first of June, the British government introduced clothes rationing. This decision came as a result of a new demand for materials, needed for the war. The scheme was announced to reduce production and consumption of clothing by civilians, in order to conserve materials for the war effort. Restricting their purchasing of clothing by the allocation of coupons. Of which were needed, as well as money to purchase clothing. With each garment came a value of points, a value that varied in accordance with the amount of material and labor that went into the garments. For example, eight coupons were required for a man’s shirt and eleven for a dress. With every adult initially being allocated 66 points a year. With the odd exception(IWM, n.d).
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FIGURE 4. IWM COUPONS POSTER
A FLAW IN THE SYSTEM ! A FLAW IN THE SYSTEM The clothes rationing scheme attempted to level out the classes, ensuring a more equal distribution of clothing. But money still played a part... Clothes rationing only limited the quantity in which you could buy your clothing, not their price. If anything, the war increased the prices of clothing. Every garment had the same points system regardless of quality. Meaning members of the upper class could afford the more robust, high-quality garments that would last.
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MEND
M
E D O AND K A
FIGURE 5. IWM MAKE DO & MEND POSTER
Rationing was encouraged by war like propaganda posters, often accompanied by illustrated characters. Although considered the symbol of sacrifice, the make do and mend campaigns themselves were always an uplifting call for action from the citizens of Britain. Deliberately playful in an attempt to boost morale. Launched by the government to encourage people to take on a more sustainable attitude towards their clothing. Often unleashing people’s creativity. As household items such as bedspreads and curtains were often used to create new garments when coupons and money were in short supply. The rationing of clothing also birthed the idea of mix & match. Breaking fashion out of its formal shell, discovered through being resourceful. Highlighting the innovative nature of those that lived through this period.
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FIGURE 6. IWM MAKE DO & MEND POSTER
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THE UTILITY CLOTHING SCHEME
FIGURE 9. 1940’S CIVILIAN CLOTHING LOGO
FIGURE 7. 1940’S UTILITY CLOTHING mustard wool coat made by Alexon.
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FIGURE 8. 1940’S UTILITY CLOTHING - MENS TWEED OVERCOAT
FIGURE 10. CC41 (Civilian Clothing 1941) Mark for Marks & Spencer Garments
In that same year the Government introduced the austerity regulations. Ensuring that designs were making the most out of the material supplied. Applied to the production of clothing across Britain. Meaning there were limitations to designs resulting in simpler garments. For example, pleats and pockets were limited as well as turn ups on men’s trousers. (Blackman, 2007) This scheme was backed up by the employment of British designers, in order to prove that fashion could still be achieved, even with such tight restrictions. Demonstrating that utility clothing didn’t
In 1942 the Utility clothing scheme was introduced. Involving a range of price controlled, well designed, practical and economical garments that were incorporated into the coupon system. (Blackman, 2007)
have to be unfashionable. These designers are said to have created “smart, neatly tailored, knee length garments with a narrow silhouette. That emphasized wide shoulders and small waists, with military detailing such as breast pockets.” (Blackman, 2007) Providing the compulsory minimalism of the 40’s and resulting in a very prescriptive approach to fashion. Forcing designers to create a new kind of fashion, changing fashion forever. (n.a, n.y) Those simple and classic designs till to this day inspiring the modern-day designer.
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THE 1940'S INFLUENCE ON TODAYS FASHION 10
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FIGURE 11. VOGUE ARCHIVE - NOVEMBER 1, 1942
FIGURE 12. IMPEREAL WAR MUSEUM - ARP AT KINGSTON HOUSE, LONDON, c 1940.
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Make Up Makeup was one of the only things not to be rationed during WW2, although was considered more of a luxury and with that came a hefty price tag. Due to the government adding a luxury tax on makeup. During the war beauty became a woman’s duty, Rebecca Butterworth (English Heritage , n.d) Conserving a neat appearance though the use of cosmetics was said to be crucial for moral. Encouraged by not only the government but echoed by British vogue and other fashion magazines too. Meaning women had to attempt to balance these newfound responsibilities and find time to make themselves look pretty, all whilst keeping order in their homes.
Not only were household items used for the make do and mend approach, but produce was also used as an alternative to certain makeup. For example, the alternative to blush - often called rouge in the 40’s was beetroot. Due to its staining properties. (English Heritage , n.d) Giving that patriotic red colour. One not very glamorous example being the alternative to stockings… painted stockings. Rationed up until the material used to make them began being put towards the war effort, more specifically to construct parachutes. Leaving women with limited choice in regards to alternatives. Some include coffee, boiled walnut shells and gravy browning. However, where clothing was unavailable, makeup stepped up, with some women even attempting to use eyeliner. (English Heritage , n.d)
FIGURE 13. 1940’S MAKEUP ADVERTISMENT POSTER - Advertising Archives
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FIGURE 14. IMPEREAL WAR MUSEUM - UTILITY CLOTHES: FASHION RESTRICTIONS IN WARTIME BRITAIN, 1943
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FIGURE 15. War Memorial, Erection date: 9/7/2005. Women Of World War Two
To conclude,
this era has been the most influential not only due to the fashion of the time but the attitudes towards fashion. The effects of the war resulted in a fashion movement. This movement within fashion came not only as a result of a change to style or consumer desires, it came out of necessity. The people and the fashion of the 1940’s didn’t have a choice. This time in history has paved the way for us to live a more relaxed life in regard to classification, which was based purely around money. The 1940’s was the first time that the grouping of people due to their financial position began to ease. The second world war’s effects on fashion weren’t due to specific expensive designers and extravagance, like other eras before. It was the people that made the shift. 1940’s fashion was for the everyday working-class person. It wasn’t about the amount of money that could be spent on one garment. It was about doing what you had to, in order to stay stable.
Fashion
was forced to change, resulting in new ideas. A new wave of fashion that meant no matter your class you could have fashion. (Although not necessarily quality) This era also birthed a newfound individuality. As people adopted the make do and mend method, unique garments were being produced. Through creativity and sacrifice came a never seen before approach to fashion, changing its previously ostentatious style. A time not only to respect but a time that is still emulated to this day. In designs such as the trench coat and that classic khaki green colour, with a tied in small waist. Creating that famous 40’s boxy shoulder but also triangular look. With a strong connection to the United Kingdom through the feeling of pride and patriotism. Are designers emulating those simple military designs as a way of showing their respect for the veterans of WW2 or is the minimalistic approach a style that will never go out of fashion?
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REFERENCES Blackman, C. (2007). 100 years of fashion illustration. n.a: Laurence King Publishing . English Heritage . (n.d, n.m n.d). 1940’s World War II Makeup Tutorial History Inspired Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth. Retrieved from English Heritage : https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/ members-area/members-magazine/meet-the-expert/ambert-butchartand-rebecca-butterworth/ GOVERNMENT OFFICIAL / IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM . (1943, N.M N.D). MAKE DO AND MEND . MAKE DO AND MEND . N.C: MINISTRY OF INFORMATION . https://film.iwmcollections.org.uk/record/1956 IWM. (n.d, n.d n.d). 8 Facts about Clothes Rationing in Britain During the Second World War . Retrieved from IMPEREAL WAR MUSEUM : https:// www.iwm.org.uk/history/8-facts-about-clothes-rationing-in-britainduring-the-second-world-war MY LEARNING. ORG . (N.Y, N.M N.D). M&S WARTIME UTILITY CLOTHING - MAKING THE MOST OF MATERIALS AFTER WW2. Retrieved from MY LEARNING . ORG : https://www.mylearning.org/stories/mands-wartimeutility-clothing/558 n.a. (n.y, n.m n.d). WW2: Did the war introduce designer fashion to our high streets? Retrieved from BBC TEACH : https://www.bbc.co.uk/teach/ did-ww2-introduce-designer-fashion-to-our-high-streets/zjqfmfr VOGUE. (1942). VOGUE. VOGUE ARCHIVE .
https://archive.vogue.com/issue/19421101
IMAGE REFERENCES
FIGURE 1. AT AN ATS MOTOR TRANSPORT COMPANY TRAINING CENTRE, CAMBERLEY, SURREY, 1941 https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205195831 FIGURE 2. Innovation & Desperation: 8 1940s Fashion Secrets From World War 2 - 25th September 2017. By Lucy Adlington. https://www.historyanswers.co.uk/people-politics/innovation-desperation-8-1940s-fashion-secrets-from-world-war-2/
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FIGURE 3. IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM Four young ladies enjoy a stroll in the Spring sunshine along a shopping street in the West End of London. Two are wearing fancy hats, proving that wartime clothing doesn’t have to be drab! Cars and other pedestrians go about their daily business behind them. https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/how-clothes-rationing-affected-fashion-in-the-second-worldwar
IMAGE REFERENCES FIGURE 4. IWM COUPONS POSTER - image: disembodied hand, the palm superimposed with pink numbers, each finger labelled ‘Stockings’, ‘Suit’, ‘Blouse’, ‘Coat’, ‘Camiknickers’ text: Count your coupons before you go shopping Which can you do without? https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/8-facts-about-clothes-rationing-in-britain-during-thesecond-world-war FIGURE 5. IWM MAKE DO & MEND POSTER - The character Mrs Sew and Sew, created to promote the Make Do and Mend campaign. © IWM https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/10-top-tips-for-winning-at-make-do-and-mend FIGURE 6. IWM MAKE DO & MEND POSTER - whole: the image fills the majority of the design with text in black positioned above. Text in green is incorporated in the lower right of the image within a box. image: a young woman sorting through a wardrobe of clothes. text: Go through your wardrobe Make-do and Mend https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/8-facts-about-clothes-rationing-in-britain-during-thesecond-world-war FIGURE 7. 1940’S UTILITY CLOTHING mustard wool coat made by Alexon. - Utility mustard wool coat made by Alexon. This is an example of Utility design at its best, featuring simple lines and minimal trimmings. It is a style that could easily be worn today without looking dated. https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/how-clothes-rationing-affected-fashion-in-thesecond-world-war FIGURE 8. 1940’S UTILITY CLOTHING - MENS TWEED OVERCOAT - Clothing in WW2: CC41 and the Utility Clothing Scheme. 28th April 2021by Museum of Cornish Life https://museumofcornishlife.co.uk/2021/04/28/clothing-in-ww2-cc41-and-the-utilityclothing-scheme/ FIGURE 9. 1940’S CIVILIAN CLOTHING LOGO http://www.1940.co.uk/acatalog/an-introduction-to-utility-clothing.html FIGURE 10. CC41 (Civilian Clothing 1941) Mark for Marks & Spencer Garments https://www.mylearning.org/stories/mands-wartime-utility-clothing/558 FIGURE 11. VOGUE ARCHIVE - NOVEMBER 1, 1942 https://archive.vogue.com/issue/19421101 FIGURE 12. IMPEREAL WAR MUSEUM - ARP AT KINGSTON HOUSE, LONDON, c 1940. https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205196786 FIGURE 13. 1940’S MAKEUP ADVERTISMENT POSTER - Advertising Archives https://www.advertisingarchives.co.uk/en/asset/show_zoom_window_popup. html?asset=26214&location=grid&asset_ FIGURE 14. IMPEREAL WAR MUSEUM - UTILITY CLOTHES: FASHION RESTRICTIONS IN WARTIME BRITAIN, 1943 https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205200192 FIGURE 15. War Memorial, Erection date: 9/7/2005 - Women Of World War Two https://www.londonremembers.com/memorials/women-in-ww2
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Appendices
1940’S DAY FESTIVAL WW2 DAY IN COLWYN BAY. HAD MY HAIR STYLED AS A 1940’S WOMAN, HIGH UP ON THE HEAD IN A CURL. 2011 FOLLOWING A 1940’S MAKEUP TUTORIAL - ENGLISH HERITAGE
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FOLLOWING A 1940’S MAKEUP TUTORIAL - ENGLISH HERITAGE
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