AD4606 BRAND DEVELOPMENT RESEARCH STUSSY X GLAM ROCK RESEARCH BOOK by ChloeThomson7

CHLOE THOMSON 2101568

BRAND DEVELOPMENT AD4606

3204 WORDS

4-5 TO E G N A O P I T ODUC INTR ARCH E S E R

PAGE 6-11 GEN Z PAGE 12-19 STUSSY STUSSY 3 2 0 2 AGE

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TRIBE OCK

AM R L G 7 2 24

PAGE 28-31 DAVID BOWIE PAGE 32-35 MARC BOLAN UR PINK

LO PAGE 36-37 CO PA

40 SC A N 43 UL IN EW ITY

ONSUMER PAGE 38-39 C RESEARCH

UCTION D O R T N -45 I PAGE 44 OLLABORATION TO THE C RENCES E F F E R -47 PAGE46

CONTENTS

D O TR

G N I UC

WHENWORLDSCOLLIDE

THIS BOOK WILL HOST THE INS AND OUTS OF THE FUSION BETWEEN STREETWEAR SENSATION STUSSY AND THE 70'S TRIBE, GLAM ROCK. A TIME FUELLED BY AN EXPLOSION OF POLITICAL VIOLENCE IN NORTHERN IRELAND - AS DESCRIBED BY MARK ELLIOT. (ELLIOTT, 2021) THE MOVEMENT ONCE BROUGHT A SPLASH OF COLOUR AND SPARKLE TO A VERY BLEAK AND DIFFICULT TIME. SOMETHING THAT I BELIEVE GLAM ROCK CAN DO AGAIN FOR GEN Z. AS THE 21ST CENTURY HAS TOO EXPERIENCED ITS FAIR SHARE OF POLITICAL VIOLENCE AND UNCERTAINTY. THIS COLLABORATION WILL BRING GLAM ROCK TO THE EVERYDAY WORLD, OFFERING A NEW ANGLE WITHIN STREETWEAR. BENDING GENDER RULES AND STEREOTYPES, STAYING TRUE TO THE KEY INGREDIENTS OF GLAM ROCK! FOCUSING ON TARGETING GEN Z AS THE CONSUMER FOR THE COLLABORATION.

E H T

N O I T A

L L CO

R O AB

ARE

WHO

GEN

GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z GEN Z

WITH EVERY GENERATION COMES TRYING TIMES AND HARDSHIPS THAT SHAPE THE GROWING INDIVIDUALS OF THE TIME. WITH GENERATION Z BEING NO EXCEPTION, HAVING EXPERIENCED AND DEALT WITH A VARIETY OF HARROWING ISSUES ALL AT SUCH A YOUNG AGE. FROM THE TRAGEDY OF 9/11 IN 2001, THE MANCHESTER ARENA BOMBING OF 2017 TO THE CORONA VIRUS OUTBREAK OF 2019. ALL OF WHICH HAS HAD A PROFOUND EFFECT ON GEN Z. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT CAME TO THE WORLDWIDE PANDEMIC THAT LEFT US ALL STUCK AT HOME AND STRIPPED OF OUR SOCIAL LIVES. HIGHLIGHTING OUR BOREDOM, MANY GEN ZS TOOK THE TIME TO GET IN TOUCH WITH THEIR CREATIVE SIDE, DRIVING THIS SHIFT OF AMBITION. AN ARTICLE PUBLISHED BY VOGUE BUSINESS (WEBB, 2022) DESCRIBED THE SHIFT AS, “GEN ZS ARE EMERGING FROM LOCKDOWN AS BUSINESS OWNERS.” ANOTHER INTERESTING SOURCE TO SUPPORT THIS IS A TED TALK BY HARRY BEARD, A 17-YEAR-OLD ENTREPRENEUR (BEARD, 2019). HAVING COMPLETED A SURVEY FOR HIS RESEARCH, HE FOUND THAT 70% OF GEN Z SAID THEY WANTED TO START THEIR OWN BUSINESS. WITH 15% DOING SO BEFORE THEY LEAVE SECONDARY SCHOOL (STATISTICALLY). DOES THIS NEW WAVE OF AMBITION COME FROM PREVIOUS GENERATIONS SUCH AS THE MILLENNIALS BEING TOLD “YOU’LL BE SEEN AND NOT HEARD” AS CHILDREN? IS THIS A REBELLION AGAINST THE VALUES OF PREVIOUS GENERATIONS? FIGHTING AGAINST THE TYPICAL STEREOTYPE THAT AGE IS EXPERIENCE… AS PEOPLE OFTEN JUDGE BASED UPON WHAT THEY SEE NOT WHAT THEY HEAR, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO AGE.

ALTHOUGH, ON THE OTHER HAND MANY SEEM TO HAVE FAITH IN GEN Z. AS THEY ARE SAID TO BE THE GENERATION TO FIX EVERYTHING FROM GLOBAL WARMING TO THE ENDLESS FAST FASHION RAT RACE THAT THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS BECOME. I ONLY HAVE TO MENTION 19-YEAR-OLD GRETA THUNBERG’S ACCOMPLISHMENTS AS AN ENVIRONMENTAL ACTIVIST TO PROVE MY POINT. ANOTHER SHIFT FUELLED BY GEN Z, SPECIFICALLY WHEN IT COMES TO THEIR CONSUMER DEMANDS IS THIS OBSESSION OF SUSTAINABILITY. GEN Z BELIEVE THAT FASHION HAS A HUGE PART TO PLAY IN PRESERVING OUR ENVIRONMENT. WITH SUSTAINABILITY AT THE FORE FRONT OF THEIR MINDS, MATERIALS AND MARKETING LEVEL CONTRIBUTE MASSIVELY INTO THEIR BUYING DECISIONS. FOR EXAMPLE, FAST FASHION BEING CANCELLED DUE TO ITS MASS PRODUCTION AND RESPONSIBILITY FOR 10% OF GLOBAL CO2 EMISSIONS ANNUALLY. SLOW FASHION AND DESIGNER INVESTMENT PIECES ARE BECOMING THE NEW DESIRE. SOUGHT AFTER FROM THE CONTINUINGLY GROWING RESALE MARKET. WHICH IS SAID TO REACH $53 BILLION BY 2023, $27 BILLION IN RESALE ALONE AND $26 BILLION IN TRADITIONAL SECOND-HAND DONATIONS AND CHARITY SHOPS – ACCORDING TO CNBC. (DONIGER, 2021) SOME EXAMPLES OF THESE RESALE MARKETS INCLUDE DEPOP AND VESTIAIRE COLLECTIVE. THE LATTER OF THE TWO OFFERING A MORE DESIGNER-BASED INVENTORY. WITH THEIR LOWEST ALLOWED SELLING PRICE BEING £15, IN A BID TO ELIMINATE FAST FASHION.

WHO IS THE GEN Z CONSUMER ?

A BRieF HISTORY OF

A CALIFORNIAN BORN LABEL THAT ALL STARTED FROM THE SCRAWL OF A NAME ON A SURFBOARD, IN THE EARLY 1980’S. A SIGNATURE, FROM WHICH THE LOGO OF THE BRAND WAS ESTABLISHED. BOTH OF WHICH HAVE STOOD THE TEST OF TIME. A SIGNATURE HISTORICALLY MARKED WITH AN “X” BY THOSE WHO WERE ILLITERATE. A MARK THAT REPRESENTS YOU, THE NAME GIVEN TO YOU AT BIRTH WRITTEN IN A STYLIZED FASHION. THE PUREST FORM OF IDENTITY. SOMETHING THAT STUSSY HAS MASTERED WITHIN ITS BRAND NARRATIVE AND BRAND IDENTITY. AN IDENTITY SHARED WITH ONE OF THE TOP FASHION HOUSES OF THE WORLD, CHANEL. AS GABRIELLE CHANEL HERSELF ONCE SAID “CHANEL ABOVE ALL ELSE CHANEL IS A STYLE. NOT FASHION. BECAUSE YOU SEE FASHION GOES OUT OF FASHION. BUT STYLE… NEVER” STUSSY LIKE CHANEL IS ABOUT STYLE. AUTHENTIC THROUGH AND THROUGH, FROM ITS ORIGIN TO THE PROMOTION OF ITS PRODUCTS THROUGH TRIBES. AND THE BRAINS BEHIND IT ALL, A CALIFORNIAN HYBRID SURFER/ SKATER NAMED SHAWN STUSSY. THE MAN WHO NOT ONLY BEGAN TO SHAPE AND CARVE HIS OWN SURFBOARDS AT THE AGE OF 13 BUT WHO ALSO CARVED OUT

A STYLE LEGACY, BY USING YOUTH MOVEMENTS TO HIS ADVANTAGE, AN EMOTIONAL BRANDING PRO! ALTHOUGH STUSSY’S CONCEPTION MAY HAVE BEEN ALMOST ACCIDENTAL, BEGINNING AS A SMALL LOCAL SURF BRAND IN THE EARLY 80’S, INSPIRED BY THE CALIFORNIAN SURF SCENE. OFFICIALLY KICKING OF ITS CLOTHING VENTURE IN 1984, WITH BUSINESS PARTNER AND FRIEND FRANK SINATRA (NO NOT THE FRANK SINATRA). STARTING OFF WITH SIMPLE PIECES SUCH AS T-SHIRTS AND CAPS. AS QUOTED BY STUSSY THEMSELVES “A BRAND BORN FROM THE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA SURF SCENE AND SWEPT THROUGH THE CLOTHING LANDSCAPE TO REDEFINE THE LOOK AND IDEOLOGY OF CASUALWEAR” (STUSSY, N.D).

FIGURE 1. STUSSY DECK PARK SKATEBOARD 8.5 X 32.463 - DESIGNED BY NEW DESIGNER 138044

THE BRAND HAS SINCE BECOME ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS LUXURY STREETWEAR BRANDS OF ALL TIME. ONE REASON FOR THIS BEING THAT AT THE TIME, COMPANY AFTER COMPANY HAD REFUSED TO PRODUCE NONATHLETIC PRODUCTS FOR DECADES BUT THEN CAME STUSSY, REVOLUTIONISING THE GAME. SAID TO BE ONE OF THE FIRST BRANDS TO PRODUCE GARMENTS SUCH AS VARSITY JACKETS AND CAPS NOT ONLY MEANT FOR SPORTSWEAR SPECIFICALLY. THIS WAS THE MOMENT STREETWEAR WAS BORN. OR AS IT WAS CALLED BACK THEN “CASUALWEAR”. POINTED OUT TO ME BY ANOTHER PROMINENT FIGURE IN STUSSY’S HISTORY, PAUL MITTLEMAN. OF WHOM I FIRST LEARNT ABOUT FROM A PODCAST FEATURING MITTLEMAN HIMSELF, FORMER CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF STUSSY FOR 17 YEARS. TITLED “HOW PAUL MITTLEMAN WENT FROM STUSSY CREATIVE DIRECTOR TO WORKING WITH KANYE, PHARRELL AND NIGO” (GESNER, 2019) MITTLEMAN CAN ALSO BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR HELPING TO FUSE BOTH SKATE AND SURF CULTURE TOGETHER. TWO PREVIOUSLY OPPOSED CULTURES, AS SAID BY ELI MORGAN GESNER DURING THE PODCAST. TO WHICH MITTLEMAN ADDED HIS TWO CENTS, “THE JOINING OF THE BOY’S DIFFERENT STYLES, WAS A MOMENT THAT SORT OF DEFINED STREETWEAR.” (GESNER, 2019)

I THINK PART OF THIS APPRECIATION FOR SHAWN STUSSY WAS DUE TO HIS RESIGNMENT AS PRESIDENT OF THE COMPANY IN 1996. AS THE SAYING GOES, YOU ONLY REALISE WHAT YOU HAD ONCE IT’S GONE. ALTHOUGH SHAWN NEVER REALLY LEFT STUSSY ENTIRELY, OR THE INDUSTRY HE PIONEERED. STILL A PROMINENT FIGURE IN THE FASHION SCENE, HAVING COLLABORATED WITH KIM JONES ON HIS SPRING/ SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION, THAT FEATURED SHAWN STUSSY’S ARTWORK AS PRINTS ON THE CLOTHING. HIS DESIGNS SHOWCASING SHAWN’S SIGNATURE HANDWRITING THAT STARTED THE WHOLE STREETWEAR BRAND AND YOUTH CULTURE MOVEMENT.

FIGURE 2. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JB MONDINO

PAU

LM ITT LEM AN

SHAWN AND MITTLEMAN TOOK THE WORLD BY STORM, STILL TO THIS DAY CREDITED FOR THE CONCEPTION OF STREETWEAR AS THEY LAID THE FOUNDATIONS FOR THE PHENOMENON TO COME ALIVE. THREE DECADES LATER DESIGNERS ARE STILL INSPIRED BY STUSSY, ADDING THEIR OWN NARRATIVE TO WHAT STUSSY STARTED, EACH DESIGNER ADDING A NEW PAGE TO THE STORYBOOK OF STREETWEAR. STUSSY PAVED THE WAY FOR BRANDS LIKE BAPE AND SUPREME. IT IS SAID THAT THE CURRENT GENERATION OF MENSWEAR DESIGNERS GREW UP WEARING STUSSY (TASHJIAN, 2021). AND ALL TALK ABOUT SHAWN STUSSY WITH HIGH REGARDS. HE IS KNOWN AS THE MAN THAT CREATED A NEW CLOTHING GENRE THAT DIDN’T EVEN EXIST, AS QUOTED BY HIGHSNOBIETY (GORDON, 2016), AARON LEVINE “GROWING UP SHAWN STUSSY WAS LIKE A GOD TO ME”. AS WELL AS KIM JONES CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF DIOR MENSWEAR, “HE STARTED IT ALL” WHEN INTERVIEWED BY KATE MOSS FOR I-D. (PETTY, 2020 )

TUSSY TRIBE STUSSY TRIB 20

A LARGE CONTRIBUTOR RESPONSIBLE FOR STUSSY’S SUCCESS IS ITS MARKETING STRATEGY AND PROMOTIONAL DECISIONS. HOW THEY MADE THE PRODUCTS KNOWN TO THEIR CUSTOMER DEMOGRAPHIC AT THE TIME WAS UNIQUE ONLY TO STUSSY. MAKING STUSSY STAND OUT COMPARED TO THEIR COMPETITORS. THESE COMPETITORS INCLUDING, PALACE, SUPREME AND OFF WHITE. THIS APPROACH PERFECTLY SUMMED UP IN AN ARTICLE TITLED, HOW STUSSY BECAME THE CHANEL OF STREETWEAR. (TASHJIAN, 2021) “MOST FASHION HOUSES NOW SEE CELEBRITIES OR INFLUENCERS AS STRATEGIC VESSELS FOR THEIR VISION. BUT STUSSY WAS TRULY ABOUT HOW IT’S TRIBE MEMBERS WORE THE CLOTHES.” WHICH BRINGS ME TO THE INTRODUCTION OF THE IST...

INTERNATIONAL

STUSSY

TRIBE.

A GROUP OF LIKEMINDED INDIVIDUALS THAT SHAWN STUSSY SUPPOSEDLY MET ON HIS TRAVELS, DEVELOPING A CLOSE CONNECTION TO THE BRAND. THIS GROUP OF FRIENDS LATER BECOMING THE INTERNATIONAL STUSSY TRIBE. THE COLLECTIVE INCLUDING SUBCULTURAL ICONS SUCH AS MICK JONES OF THE CLASH (BRITISH MUSICIAN) AND BARNZLEY ARMITAGE, THE MAN THAT SUPPOSEDLY INVENTED THE SMILEY FACE TEE. WITH A STRONG NETWORK OF TRIBE MEMBERS WEARING THE BRAND IN CLUBS AND ON THE SCENE ACROSS THE GLOBE, THE STUSSY MESSAGE SPREAD ORGANICALLY. A METHOD THAT IS SAID TO BE IRREPLICABLE IN THIS DAY AND AGE, IN THE WORLD OF “CORPORATE” SKATE TEAMS AND MULTIMILLION DOLLAR BRAND DEAL CONTRACTS. AS I READ IN A GQ ARTICLE WRITTEN BY RACHEL TASHJIAN (TASHJIAN, 2021) RESULTING IN STUSSY BEING NATURALLY SEEN AND PROMOTED AROUND THE SKATE STREETWEAR SCENE.

THE INTERNATIONAL STUSSY TRIBE WAS NEVER ABOUT CONFLICTING CITIES OF THE WORLD. IT WAS ABOUT THE PEOPLE AND THEIR LOVE OF MUSIC, ART AND SKATE CULTURE. THOSE THAT BOUGHT INTO STUSSY FELT A PART OF SOMETHING BIGGER. THEY AREN’T JUST BUYING INTO A BRAND BUT A LIFESTYLE. THE VERY CLOTHING THAT WAS INSPIRED BY AN INTERNATIONAL GROUP OF MUSICIANS, SKATERS, DJ’S AND ARTISTS WITH SIMILAR TASTES – AS SAID ON THE OFFICIAL STUSSY WEBSITE. EACH MEMBER OF THE STUSSY TRIBE WERE GIVEN CUSTOM EMBROIDERED VARSITY JACKETS WITH THEIR NAME ON. AND ARE STILL AVAILABLE DURING SELECT RELEASES.

FIGURE 3. INTERNATIONAL STÜSSY TRIBE LONDON CHAPTER - PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK LEBON

WORLD TOUR T WORLD TOUR T WORLD TOUR T WORLD TOUR T WORLD TOUR T WORLD TOUR T WORLD TOUR T WORLD TOUR T

X X X

CAUSE BRANDING

THE DECISION BY A BRAND TO RAISE AWARENESS AND MONEY, TO DONATE TO A CHARITY OF THEIR CHOICE. OFTEN INCREASING PROFIT AND CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT.

STUSSY’S 40TH ANNIVERSARY

STUSSY ARE WELL KNOWN FOR THEIR WORLD TOUR T SHIRTS. IN 2020 STUSSY COLLABORATED WITH DESIGNERS ACROSS THE WORLD. EACH DESIGNER WAS GIVEN THE CLASSIC WORLD TOUR T AS A BLANK CANVAS, FOR THEM TO CREATE WHATEVER THEY DESIRED. THESE DESIGNERS INCLUDING RICK OWENS, VIRGIL ABLOH, MARC JACOBS AND TAKAHIRO MIYASHITA. ALL OF WHOM REPRESENT DIFFERENT CITIES AND COMMUNITIES THAT HAVE INSPIRED STUSSY. (STUSSY, 2020) WITH A PORTION OF THE PROCEEDS FROM EACH T-SHIRT BEING DONATED TO A CHARITY OR ORGANISATION OF THE DESIGNER’S CHOICE. (STUSSY, 2020)

CAUSE BRANDING WITHIN MY COLLABORATION

MY HOPE WOULD BE TO RAISE FUNDS THROUGH THE SALE OF THE PIECES WITHIN THE COLLABORATION. WITH A PORTION OF THE PROCEEDS GOING TO THE SECONDARY BREAST CANCER CHARITY, MAKE SECONDS COUNT. A CHARITY THAT IS CLOSE TO MY HEART.

GLAM 24

ROCK 25

Rising from the explosion of political violence in Northern Ireland came the technicolour revolution of glam rock. Ripping through the 1970’s, offering a rare splash of colour and noise. Compared to the mellow, chilled out hippie movement of the 1960’s. Along with Glam Rock came a timeless sense of futurism, heavily inspired by the first moon landing of 1969. Glam rock king David Bowie releasing novelty pop song Space Oddity, that same year. It was the men that lead this teenage rampage (BBC, 2008). Drenched in glitter, musicians took the music industry by storm. Creating space-age characters and adopting theatrical personas (BRITANNICA, 2013). Often giving flamboyant performances, stomping accross the stage, sprinkling provocative sexual tension. (ELIOTT, 2021) Whilst dressed in outrageous costumes and makeup, blurring those gender stereotypes. It was this very generation that introduced androgyny. (COLE, 2002) This is where androgyny as we see & know it today originated. Having a profound impact on attitudes, fashion and sexual identities at the time. (MIND SMOKE RECORDS , 2020) Challenging those boundaries, glam rock did something bigger than just influence style. With the first Pride being help in London, 1972 as well as rules of homosexuality being relaxed four years later, 1976. (STONEWALL, N.Y) Glam rock helped paved the way for us today. With celebrities like Harry Styles, Lady Gaga and Timothee Chalamet emulating glam rock and its values in the 21st century.

DAVIDBOWIEDAVIDBOWIE

ONE OF THE MAIN INSPIRATIONS FOR THIS COLLABORATION AND THE GLAM ROCK MOVEMENT ITSELF. THE CHAMELEON KING. GIVEN THIS NICKNAME DUE TO HIS CONSTANT CHANGE IN APPEARANCE AND COLOURFUL STYLE. HAVING DRAWN INSPIRATION FROM MANY INDIVIDUALS AND CULTURES. SUCH AS, PERFORMER LINDSEY KEMP. OFTEN HELDACCOUNTABLE FOR HELPING BOWIE CRAFT HIS THEATRICAL PRESENCE THAT DEFINED HIS CAREER, SEWING THE SEED OF A GLAMOROUS INCARNATION. (TODOROVA, 2016) INTRODUCING BOWIE TO JAPANESE THEATRE, TEACHING HIM THE KABUKI. DESCRIBED BY ENCYCLOPEDIA BRITANNICA AS FOLLOWS, “A TRADITIONAL JAPANESE DRAMA WITH SINGING AND DANCING PERFORMED IN A HIGHLY STYLIZED MANNER. A RICH BLEND OF MUSIC, DANCE, MIME, AND SPECTACULAR STAGING AND COSTUMING.” (ENCYCLOPAEDIA, 2022) BOWIE WAS HEAVILY INSPIRED BY THIS EXPERIENCE, GIVING HIM AN AWARENESS FOR MOVEMENT, AND SELF-EXPRESSION. ANOTHER CREATIVE THAT HEAVILY INSPIRED BOWIE WAS, ANDY WARHOL. SPECIFICALLY, HIS PLAY “PORK” - OPENED IN 1971. (NATIONAL GALLERIES OF SCOTLAND AND TATE, 2020) INVOLVING AN EXOTIC PERFORMANCE FROM A CAST OF DRAG QUEENS. WARHOL’S INFLUENCE ON BOWIE CLEARLY SHOWING THROUGH HIS ALADDIN SANE ALBUM COVER, RELEASED IN 1973. FEATURING A VERY POP ART INSPIRED LIGHTNING BOLT ACROSS BOWIES FACE. BOWIE ALSO DREW INSPIRATION FROM HIS WIFE ANGIE BOWIE, WHO TOLD HIM HE COULD BE AND DO WHATEVER HE WANTED. (BBC, 2008) BOTH MR &MRS BOWIE DRESSED AMBIGUOUSLY, OFTEN SWITCHING (STEREOTYPICAL) ROLES. WITH DAVID WEARING WOMEN’S CLOTHING AND ANGIE WEARING MEN’S CLOTHING. ANGIE OFTEN LOOKING LIKE THE FEMALE VERSION OF BOWIE HIMSELF. (BBC, 2008) A POWERFUL STATEMENT IMPORTANT TO STILL EMULATE AND RESPECT TO THIS DAY.

FIGURE 4. LINDSAY KEMP AND DAVID BOWIE PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICK ROCK

“ I TAUGHT HIM HOW TO EXPRESS HIMSELF THROUGH HIS BODY AND HOW TO COMMUNICATE THROUGH HIS BODY” – LINDSAY KEMP (KEMP, 2016)

MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC MARC

BOLAN BOLAN BOLAN BOLAN BOLAN BOLAN BOLAN BOLAN

Marc Bolan, pioneer of the glam rock movement. Like Bowie, a true exhibitionist. Belonging to the band T.REX, as the lead singer. Rex meaning king in Latin. Fitting as Marc Bolan certainly was a one of the kings of glam. Bolan founded the band in 1967, after several years of past solo attempts failing. (Eames, 2022) Now famous for songs such as Get It On & Children Of The Revolution. Bolan was known for glitter and curls. Often mixing prints and fabrics, creating a maximalist, flamboyant and distinctive look. Experimenting with gender boundaries, playing to the gender blurring rules of glam rock. Marc Bolan helped pioneer a look that endures to this day. (BEKHRAD, 2017) Never seen without at least a speck of glitter. Bolan himself saying,

“THERE WAS SOME OF MY WIFE’S GLITTER AND I JUST SPIT ON ME FINGERS AND STUCK IT UNDER MY EYES” (bekhrad, 2020)

FIGURE 5. MARC BOLAN PERFORMING WITH ENGLISH GLAM ROCK GROUP T-REX AT THE SUNDOWN, EDMONTON, LONDON, 22ND DECEMBER 1972. PHOTO BY MICHAEL PUTLAND/ GETTY IMAGES

PINK the colour PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK X

DEEPLY ROOTED IN FEMININE IDEOLOGY . THE COLOUR PINK IS SAID TO BE ASSOCIATED WITH LOVE AND KINDNESS, BRINGING TO MIND ROMANCE. (CHERRY, 2020) SOMETHING THAT GLAM ROCK CHALLENGED, OFTEN WITH ITS SPARKLY BODYSUITS AND FEATHER BOA DRENCHED MALE FIGURES. STUSSY HOWEVER, IS NOT KNOWN FOR PINK BUT THIS COLLABORATION AIMS TO CHANGE THAT. CHALLENGING THESE PRECONCEIVED LINKS THAT COME WITH THE COLOUR PINK. A BOLD COLOUR THAT WILL NOT ONLY GRAB THE ATTENTION OF THE CONSUMER. BUT WILL ALSO SIMULTANEOUSLY BREAK STUSSY OUT OF ITS CASUAL, TYPICALLY WEARABLE COLOUR PALETTE. BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN GLAM ROCK AND THE STREETWEAR PHENOMENON STUSSY, AS WELL AS THE GENDER RULES THAT COME WITH IT.

PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK PINK X

X TO UNDERSTAND THE GEN Z CONSUMER IN DEPTH I CONDUCTED MY OWN PRIMARY RESEARCH. PRESENTING A QUESTION TO THE PUBLIC THROUGH INSTAGRAM, DIRECT MESSAGING AND DIRECTLY ASKING IN PUBLIC, IN AN ATTEMPT TO TARGET GEN Z SPECIFICALLY. TYPICALLY TARGETING THOSE WITHIN THE AGE RANGE OF 1828. THIS QUESTION GAVE ME AN INSIGHT INTO THE PSYCHOLOGY OF CONSUMER CHOICE. IN PARTICULAR HOW GENDER AFFECTS PURCHASING HABITS, BRAND ENGAGEMENT AND CONSUMER NEEDS. AND THE BOUNDARIES THAT COME WITH LABELLING CLOTHING THROUGH GENDER.

GARRY BUTTERFIELD - DESIGN & PRODUCT CONSULTANT

THE RESPONSE

THROUGH THE INSTAGRAM POLL I RECEIVED THE RESPONSE OF 60.2% YES AND 38.7 % NO. OF WHICH I WAS RELATIVELY SURPRISED AND PLEASED BY. I ALSO ASKED THE QUESTION DIRECTLY WHEN OUT IN PUBLIC PLACES AS WELL AS DIRECTLY MESSAGING THOSE IN THE INDUSTRY. THEIR RESPONSE BEING THAT THEY WOULD USUALLY GRAVITATE TOWARDS THE WOMEN’S SECTION AS THEY ARE GUARANTEED TO FIND SOMETHING OF THE SPARKLY NATURE. ALTHOUGH FIT WOULD BE A CONCERN. THEREFORE, THERE IS DEFINITELY A REALISED GAP IN “MALE” THE MARKET FOR THIS GLAM ROCKESQUE STYLE GARMENTS. ALL OF WHICH HELPED TO DEFINE WHAT MY BRANDS MESSAGE AND AIM WAS GOING TO BE.

TONY GREEN - ILLUSTRATION ARTIST

MATT FORD - PHOTOGRAPHER

X WHAT IS MASCULINITY ? WHO IS MASCULINE ? IS MASCULINITY A CREATIVE OUTLET FOR THOSE THAT CRAVE INDIVIDUALITY ? IS MASCULINITY LETTING GO OF ALL PREJUDICE AND STEREOTYPES OF WHAT IS AND WHAT ISN’T MASCULINE ? NO MATTER YOUR CULTURE, GENDER, RACE OR SEXUAL ORIENTATION IT IS UP TO YOU ! 40

A NEW MASCULINITY

WHAT IS PERCEIVED BY GENDER STEREOTYPES IS ABOUT TO CHANGE… THIS COLLABORATION REVIVES THAT 70’S GLAM ROCK GENDER BENDING INGREDIENT. ALONG WITH A PINCH OF STREETWEAR, ONE CUP STUSSY AND A HANDFUL OF GEN Z. RESEMBLING THE METAPHORICAL MELTING POT THAT THE WORLD IS. EVERYONE’S WELCOME, EVERYONE’S ACCEPTED, AND EVERYONE IS HEARD. EXPLORING THOSE BOUNDARIES SET BY SOCIETY AND CROSSING THEM. SUNKEN RAGS IS ABOUT SHOWING INDIVIDUALITY THROUGH SELF-EXPRESSION. PLAYING WITH WHAT’S DEEMED AS FEMININE AND BRINING THOSE ELEMENTS INTO THE LIGHT FOR A MALE AUDIENCE. THIS COLLABORATION IS ENCOURAGING THE REVIVAL OF THE MORALS, FREEDOM OF EXPLORATION AND INDIVIDUALITY OF GLAM ROCK IN THE 70’S. EXPLORING HOW TO INCORPORATE THESE ELEMENTS INTO THE 21ST

CENTURY.

“ I THINK THERE’S SO MUCH MASCULINITY IN BEING VULNERABLE AND ALLOWING YOURSELF TO BE FEMININE AND I’M VERY COMFORTABLE WITH THAT “ - Harry Styles

X X

THIS COLLABORATION HOPES TO BRIDGE THE GAP BETWEEN HIGHSTREET AND COUTURE GARMENTS. AS FROM RESEARCHING IT IS CLEAR TO SEE THAT THERE IS A GAP IN THE MARKET. THIS COLLABORATION AIMS TO MAKE THESE SPARKLY, LACEY, FLAMBOYANT GARMENTS MORE ACCESSIBLE FOR EVERYONE. GIVING EVERYONE THE CHANCE TO EXPRESS THEMSELVES AND BE COMFORTABLE AT THE SAME TIME, AS WELL AS HAVING THE RIGHT FIT. AT THE SAME TIME DISCOVERING WHO MY TARGET CONSUMER IS.

X X

X X 44

references BBC. (2008, NOVEMBER 22). KINGS OF GLAM . https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b007cfqj . UK: BBC TWO. BEARD, H. (2019, SEPTEMBER 4). What Makes “Generation Z” So Different? TEDXASTONUNIVERSITY. Retrieved from YOUTUBE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyCn3APagyU BEKHRAD, J. (2017, SEPTEMBER 19). THE NEW YORK TIMES. Retrieved from THE LEAST-KNOWN MOST INFLUENTIAL MAN IN FASHION: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/19/fashion/marc-bolan-london-fashion-week.html bekhrad, j. (2020, JUNE 22). Glitter and curls: Marc Bolan and the birth of glam rock style. Retrieved from THE GUARDIAN : https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/jun/22/glitter-and-curls-marcbolan-and-the-birth-of-glam-rock-style BRITANNICA, E. O. (2013, NOVEMBER 28). GLAM ROCK . Retrieved from ENCYCLOPAEDIA BRITANNICA : https://www.britannica.com/art/glam-rock CHERRY, K. (2020, DECEMBER 21). HOW DOES PINK MAKE YOU FEEL ? Retrieved from VERYWELLMIND: https://www.verywellmind.com/the-color-psychology-of-pink-2795819 COLE, S. (2002). ESSAY: NOT SURE IF YOU’RE A BOY OR GIRL . N.C: SHOW STUDIO. Doniger, A. (2021, DECEMBER 10). Shoppers are buying from resale retailers more than ever. Retrieved from CNBC: https://www.cnbc.com/2021/11/28/shoppers-are-buying-from-resale-retailersmore-than-ever-heres-why.html Eames, T. (2022, FEBRUARY 16). Marc Bolan facts: T Rex singer’s age, real name, children and tragic death explained. Retrieved from SMOOTH RADIO: https://www.smoothradio.com/news/music/ marc-bolan-facts-age-death-son/ ELIOTT, M. (2021, OCTOBER 18). Children Of The Revolution: How Glam Rock Changed The World. Retrieved from UDISCOVERMUSIC: https://www.udiscovermusic.com/in-depth-features/ how-glam-rock-changed-world/ Elliott, M. (2021, October 18). Children Of The Revolution: How Glam Rock Changed The World . Retrieved from uDiscover Music: https://www.udiscovermusic.com/in-depth-features/how-glamrock-changed-world/ Encyclopaedia, T. E. (2022, April 6). Kabuki. Retrieved from Encyclopedia Britannica,: https://www. britannica.com/art/Kabuki GESNER, E. M. (2019, OCTOBER 23). The Masters with Eli Morgan Gesner UPROXX . Retrieved from APPLE PODACST: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-masters-with-eli-morgangesner/id1479242294 GORDON, C. (2016, N.D N.D). HOW SHAWN STUSSY CREATED A CLOTHING GENRE THAT DIDN’T EXIST BEFORE. Retrieved from HIGHSNOBIETY: https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/ shawn-stussy-biography/

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image references

FIGURE 1. STUSSY DECK PARK SKATEBOARD 8.5 X 32.463 - DESIGNED BY NEW DESIGNER 138044 - RETRIEVED FROM https://www.whateverskateboards.com/skateboards/stussy_deck_park_skateboard_8_5_x_32_463--181611

FIGURE 2. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JB MONDINO https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/9395m5/history-stussy-streetwear-culture FIGURE 3. INTERNATIONAL STÜSSY TRIBE LONDON CHAPTER - PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK LEBON RETRIEVED FROM https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/9395m5/history-stussy-streetwear-culture FIGURE 4. LINDSAY KEMP AND DAVID BOWIE PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICK ROCK RETRIEVED FROM https://i-d. vice.com/en_uk/article/43v89b/meet-lindsay-kemp-the-man-who-taught-bowie-to-dance FIGURE 5. MARC BOLAN PERFORMING WITH ENGLISH GLAM ROCK GROUP T-REX AT THE SUNDOWN, EDMONTON, LONDON, 22ND DECEMBER 1972. PHOTO BY MICHAEL PUTLAND/GETTY IMAGES RETRIEVED FROM https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/marc-bolan-performing-with-english-glam-rock-group-t-rex-atnews-photo/167497646

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