This book incorporates augmented reality technology to provide you with a unique, interactive user experience. Use the exclusive code you recied with the purchase of your book to download our App from the itunes app store. Once you open the app you will have access to exclusive curated content, behind the scenes footage, and will be able to purchase pieces from the collection. As you read this book any time you see the AR icon, you can scan that image to unlock exclusive video footage on your phone screen. We hope you find this technology just as exciting as we do, Welcome to The New Era!
The THENew NEW Era: ERA
TABLE OF CONTENTS
I. OUR STORY _09 II. ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT _36 III. SOURCING _ 43 IV. PRODUCTS_ 46 V. CONCLUSION _ 69 VI. APPENDIX _ 72
I
Our Story “We founded XXY on the philosophy that we shouldn’t have to compromise our aesthetic to be sustainable. We created a brand that we believe embodies the perfect pieces for the effortlessly cool downtown crowd, to transition across seasons, genders, and occasions, giving you the most use out of your wardrobe. Our unique aesthetic is focused on creating unity between the sexes, while maintaining functionality, integrity and sustainability.” Mission: A minimalist approach with an anti-conformist aesthetic. Vision: We are ambitious about our ability to provide products with emotional integrity and an emphasis on sustainability. Values: Our unique aesthetic is focused on creating unity between the sexes, while maintaining functionality, integrity, and sustainability. 9
Who We Are EST. MANHATTAN NY 2015 Welcome to The New Era: XXY, in today’s society where gender lines are being blurred and our impact on the environment increasing, we felt the need to make a change. We founded XXY on the philosophy that we shouldn’t have to compromise our aesthetic to be sustainable. We created a brand that we believe embodies the perfect pieces for the effortlessly cool downtown crowd, to transition across seasons, genders, and occasions, giving you the most use out of your wardrobe. Sustainability isn’t just a trend to us it’s a way of life. From the factories we manufacture in to the products we source we are focused on providing quality-crafted products that are made with integrity and have the least impact on the environment.
10
11
Collection OVERVIEW We offer quality, sustainable basics in a neutral color palette making it easy for you to get dressed in the morning by just mixing and matching pieces from our line and accessorizning with existing pieces from your closet. Each of the materials used to create our garments is considered “closed loop� meaning that once you are finished wearing your garment, you can send it back to us for it to be broken down and completely recycled back into the cycle of production, to be used to make a new garment. Our ten pieces at XXY are very versatile and sustainable, gauranteed to last you through the entire year. Customers will be saving money because they only need to buy these ten pieces for a complete wardrobe.
12
13
Look 01 “DAKOTA TEE”
14
15
Look 02 “DREW BUTTON DOWN”
16
17
Look 03 “HUNTER TEE”
18
19
Look 04 “RILEY SWEATER”
20
21
Look 05 “BROOKLYN TURTLENECK”
22
23
Look 06 “SAWYER JEANS”
24
25
Look 07 “TYLER LEGGING”
26
27
Look 08 “AVERY SHORTS”
28
29
Look 09 “DEVON RAIN JACKET”
30
31
Look 10 “BLAKE BLAZER”
32
33
II
impact ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS The fashion industry has a huge impact on the environment. It is the second largest consumer of water, and polluter as well. Not only does the fashion industry as a whole leave behind a large environmental impact, but also so do the pesticides used in the process of growing cotton, and the drained chemicals from toxic dyes that go into making the perfect color shade. Child labor is a continuing problem and ethical issue when it comes to fashion. The landfills impact clothes because it wears out the energy in the environment that is required to produce garments.
36
The average American throws away 68 pounds of clothing per year. 2.6% Global Water Usage from Apparel Industry. 17 - 20% water pollution from fabric dyes.
246 Million
Child Workers,
aged 5-14
37
Our Commitment We are commited to producing our products in a fully sustainable way. We are taking action to ensure that throughout the whole lifecycle, our products have as little abount of impact on the environment as possible. We have chose to source from a manufacturer located in New York, to ensure the factory operates within our standards, and enforces safe working conditions and our workers earn a fair living wage. By having a centralized location in New York for manufacturing and distribution we are reducing our emissions from transportation. We are educating our consumers to think about the impact their clothing choices make when it comes to the environment, from how they care for their products to how they dispose of them. Our products are made using closed loop materials, meaning that once they have reached the end of their life, they can be recycled back into the supply chain where the fibers are used to make new products.
38
39
III
42
where we Source Our materials come from a variety of unique sources and will be manufactured at Manufacture NY. The materials we use for our clothing are fully sustainable, and are eco-friendly which allow consumers to do their part in being socially responsible. By wearing our clothing they can contribute to a more sustainable environment.
sustainable fabrics that won’t harm the environment and will even make it better. The materials we decided to use are Yak Down for our sweater, neoprene alternative Airnest for our pu foam blazer, micro-Tencel for our t-shirt, Recycled Nylon for our rain jacket, Crailar for the button down shirt, Qmilch for our leggings and shorts, and Bionic yarn for our Our sources for the fabrics include denim jeans. Reywa Fibers, Scafe fabrics, Bionic Yarn, Qmilk, Lenzing, Crailar These sustainable materials made Technologies, and Econyl. These through closed loop manufacturing companies all produce different systems make up our product line. materials but all have one thing We are proud to say we source in common, they are passionate from these highly sustainable and about the environment and our ethical companies, as they reect society, in turn dedicating their our beliefs on sustainable fashion company to producing only as well. 43
IV
DAKOTA TEE Our Dakota Tee offers the perfect relaxed fit. Great to layer with leggings, or pair with jeans and heels for a more sophisticated feel. Our tee is made of micro tencel fiber, it regulates moisture to keep you cool. This tee is the perfect basic and can be paired with other pieces from our line, such as our Avery Shorts & Tyler leggings, or our Sawyer jeans. Color: Black, White, Grey Environmental Rating: 8
From nature & makes use of photosyhthesis Made of wood pulp which is less toxic to prepare
Reclaims & re-uses excess materials 46
Compared to ALEXANDER WANG BLACK T-SHIRT 70% Wool 30% Silk Dry Clean Only
Dry Cleaning uses Hazardous Chemicals & causes pollution
XXY Cost: $95 Alexander Wang Cost: $395 You Save: $300
47
Drew Button Down Our Drew Button Down is perfect to dress up or dress down, it provides a loose fit and casual feel. The CRAiLAR fibers provide strength to the fabric, making our product durable and long-lasting. This button down is great paired with other pieces from our line, such as our Sawyer jeans, or layered with our Riley Sweater and our Hunter Tee. Color: White Environmental Rating: 9
Uses 97% less water than cotton Feels like cotton with the strength of tencel
Reduces chemical and water usage 48
Compared to RAG & BONE BUTTON DOWN 100% Cotton
Cotton uses 700 gallons of water to make 1 t-shirt
XXY Cost: $130 Rag & Bone Cost: $275 You Save: $145
49
Hunter Tee Our Hunter tee is perfect for layering. The side slits offer a relaxed fit, and multiple ways to wear it. Our tee is made of micro tencel fiber, it regulates moisture to keep you cool. This tee is great paired with other pieces from our line, such as our Avery shorts & Tyler leggings, or layered with our Riley Sweater and Sawyer jeans. Color: White Environmental Rating: 9
From nature & makes use of photosyhthesis Made of wood pulp which is less toxic to prepare
Reclaims & re-uses excess materials 50
Compared to VINCE LONG SLEEVE TEE 100% Cotton
Cotton uses 700 gallons of water to make 1 t-shirt
XXY Cost: $110 Vince Cost: $115 You Save: $5
51
riley Sweater Our Riley sweater is made of luxurious Yak Down fabric. This piece is great for layering and its tight interlocking knit keeps you warmer than Merino Wool. This garment is ethically made and supports the welfare of communities in Tibet. It’s perfect to pair with our Sawyer jeans, and layer over our Drew button down. Color: Grey Environmental Ranking: 10
80% of yaks live in the Tibetan Plateau
10% - 15% warmer than merino wool
Each yak only produces 1 kg per year 52
Compared to ACNE CREW NECK SWEATER 100% WOOL
The production of 2.2 lbs of wool caues the same CO2 emissions as driving a passenger car 134 miles
XXY Cost: $540 Acne Cost: $750 You Save: $210
53
Brooklyn Turtleneck Our Brooklyn turtleneck is a timeless staple piece with its close and attering fit. Our button down is made of Micro Tencel fiber, it regulates moisture to keep you cool. Our turtleneck pairs perfectly layered over our Hunter Tee as a dress, or pairs perfectly with our Sawyer jeans. Color: Black Environmental Ranking: 7
From nature & makes use of photosyhthesis Made of wood pulp which is less toxic to prepare
Reclaims & re-uses excess materials 54
Compared to THEORY TURTLENECK SWEATER 98% Wool, 2% Polyester
The production of 2.2 lbs of wool caues the same CO2 emissions as driving a passenger car 134 miles
XXY Cost: $115 Theory Cost: $345 You Save: $230
55
Sawyer Jeans Our slim cut jeans are both comfortable and casual. Made out of Bionic Yarn, the Sawyer Jeans are stronger than conventional yarns due to its recycled pastic core. These bottoms are essential to every wadrobe, and goes well with any shirt within our collection.Color: Faded Black Environmental Rating: 7
Can be spund with a wide variety of fibers 400% stronger than conventional yarns
Use of natural dyes, no chemicals 56
Compared to RAG & BONE BLACK DENIM JEANS 55% Cotton, 42% Tencel, 3% Spandex
Cotton uses 700 gallons of water to make 1 t-shirt
XXY Cost: $210 Rag & Bone Cost: $187 You Loose: $23, but improve the environment.
57
tyler legging Our Tyler leggings are perfect for casual and sophisticated wear. Made from QMilch fibers, the fitted leggings have a silk like texture that does not smell or become dirty easily. They are comfortable and easy to lounge in or can be restyled to dress up. They pair perfectly withour Avery shorts & Hunter Tee, or with our Drew button down. Color: White, Black Environmental Rating: 6
6 litres of milk produce 1 garment Offers UV protection and regulates body temperature
1/2 gallon of water to make 2 lbs of clothing 58
Compared to GIVENCY BLACK LEGGINGS 100% Cotton
Cotton uses 700 gallons of water to make 1 t-shirt
XXY Cost: $160 Givenchy Cost: $570 You Save: $410
59
Avery Shorts Our Avery shorts are the perfect addition to your wardrobe for an effortlessly cool style. Made from QMilch fibers, they are durable and offer a luxurious sheen. The smooth silky texture is soothing to the skin, and the QMilch fibers are hypoallergenic. You can style them with our hunter tee for a relaxed look, or with our Blake Blazer for a sophisticated, edgy feel. Colors: White, Black Environmental Rating: 5
6 litres of milk produce 1 garment Offers UV protection and regulates body temperature
1/2 gallon of water to make 2 lbs of clothing 60
Compared to VINCE RELAXED LEATHER SHORTS 100% Lamb Leather
The production of 2.2 lbs of leather caues the same CO2 emissions as driving a passenger car 147 miles
XXY Cost: $95 Vince Cost: $595 You Save: $500 61
Devon rain jacket Our Devon rain jacket is made of recycled nylon, and diminishes it’s carbon footprint by reducing waste and reusing all parts of the creation process. The fabric is water resistant to keep you dry with its double layers of protection. Our Devon jacket is perfect to pair with our avery shorts , tyler leggings, and hunter tee for a casual, sporty layered look. Color: Grey Environmental Rating: 5
Fibers come from regenerable waste Saves 2 million gigajoules of energy per year
Conserves 100,000 tons of CO2 emissions 62
Compared to THEORY HALF ZIP-ANORAK 100% POLYESTER
The production of 2.2 lbs causes the same CO2 emissions as driving a passenger car 28 miles.
XXY Cost: $160 Theory Cost: $295 You Save: $135 63
blake blazer Our Blake Blazer makes a great statement piece, combining the activewear funcitonality of foam fabric, with a minimalist design aesthetic, giving it a casual sophisticated feeling. It pairs perfectly with any of the pieces from our collection giving you a more polished look. The Airnest fabric is made from recycled materials and coffee grounds, using less enery to manufacture. Color: White Environmental Rating: 8
6 litres of milk produce 1 garment Offers UV protection and regulates body temperature
1/2 gallon of water to make 2 lbs of clothing 64
Compared to STELLA MCCARTNEY NEOPRENE BOMBER JACKET 100% NEOPRENE
Cotton uses 700 gallons of water to make 1 t-shirt
XXY Cost: $260 Stella McCartney Cost: $1,040 You Save: $780 65
V
68
Conclusion With the fashion industry being the second largest consumer of water as well as polluter in the United States, XXY is dedicated to significantly lessening the fashion industry’s impact on the environment. We will offer the most organic and eco-friendly textiles with consumers being a part of helping with our mission, all while wearing fashionable luxury clothing. We go beyond your common sustainable materials, by providing the newest and most organic pieces in the industry. Our choice of organic and renewable materials, are made to last longer than traditional synthetic textiles, therefor saving our consumers more of their hard earned money. The average person purchasing from luxury brands buy 68 pieces of clothing per year, totaling $23,623.20. However, the XXY customer only needs 10 pieces of clothing per year totaling $1,870, saving our customer $21,753.20. Our sustainable materials will also be purchased from socially responsible manufacturers, ensuring the employees have safe working conditions and are being properly compensated for their work. Here at XXY we are not only creating attainable luxury clothing, we are creating luxury sustainable fashion for a new generation.
69
VI
Appendix A MARKET RESEARCH SCOPE & SIZE OF THE MARKET As of right now it’s hard to pinpoint the exact size of the unisex market as it is slowly growing. In the past unisex clothes were thought of as “taboo”, but in today’s society it is becoming a more common place with brands ranging from high end to fast fashion producing unisex garments. Many high fashion brands such as couture designer Rad Hourani, Rick Owens, JW Anderson, and Hood By Air, have been known to feature men in skirts, and are shifting towards a more gender neutral approach when it comes to their design, paving the way for unisex brands. With our brand we feel our main consumer would be male, and then we would have our target woman, who adopts the oversized male aesthetic, because according to research, in the fashion industry today the majority of unisex consumers lean more towards women adopting menswear than men adopting women’s wear, even though that concept is growing. (Ryan) Since our target market is mainly men, we found the size of the men’s apparel industry as of 2013 to contribute to 18% of the apparel revenue in the U.S, when compared to women’s retail, which contributes about 82%. This indicates a 5% growth since 2012, as men’s perception of fashion has changed, where they are now more focused on appearance due to the rise of social media, and the availability of men’s stock in retail stores has increased, due to designers recognizing this shift. (“The NDP Group Reports”)
72
73
74
75
76
77
Appendix C EXPECTATIONS OF GROWTH
With XXY we feel we have created a brand that has exponential potential growth opportunity. We have noticed the shift in today’s society towards a more eco conscious consumer, especially with the rise of technology and consumer’s easy access to product information. We are also starting to see the gender lines and roles in society blur, as places are adopting gender-neutral bathrooms and stores no longer defining clothing sections as “male” or “female”, desensitizing millennial to the idea of a gender-neutral society (Bellware). We believe this places our brand in the perfect market position for growth because we are entering a growing market that hasn’t yet become over saturated, as unisex was formerly thought as “taboo”, and while sustainability is becoming an increasingly growing market, there is still room for growth, especially when you combine our brand as a sustainable unisex brand (Ryan).
78
79
Appendix D COMPETITORS
On the next page the chart shows our top competitors based on their aesthetic, and price points. We broke our competitors up into brands that were also sustainable, and brands who offered the same aesthetic.
80
BRAND Rick Owens
Alexander Wang
Rag & Bone
Theory
Everlane
Study NY
Reformation
Kow Tow Stella McCartney XXY
PRICE
AESTHETIC
MISSION
$287- $4,800
Dark, mysterious, and futuristic.
Distinct silhouettes with a gothic feel.
$225 - $2,000
Laid-back, downtown and urban.
Edgy appeal you can afford.
$95 - $2,500
Old-school American, innovative,
Quality, expert craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Contemporary, sophisticated, and feminine.
Perfectly fit clothing for the modern working women.
$15 - $165
Organic, casual, and clean.
Pushing the boundaries and challenging conventions.
$55 - $445
Relaxed, classic, and up-to-date.
Conceptual design and sustainability.
$28 - $648
Eco-friendly, current and elegant.
To coexist fashion and sustainability.
$25 - $345
Sustainable, soft and easy-going
Certified fair trade organic clothing that is ethically and sustainably made.
$370 - $5,695
Ethical, modern and natural.
Commitment to sustainability and be a responsible, honest and modern company.
$95-$540
Functionality, unisex, and unique.
$200 - $2,895
A minimalist approach with an anti-conformist aesthetic, and provides products with emotional integrity and an emphasis on sustainability.
81
Appendix E CUSTOMER LIFESTYLE ANTI - CONFORMIST Demographics With our brand we have chosen to target the Urban Millennial Consumer, the millennial market in the U.S. makes up 24% of the population (“Demographic Stats”). Our target market consists of men and women who range in age from 21 – 33 years old. Their incomes consists of a household income to that of their own of $70,000 a year and up. We are targeting the market segment that is considered the most educated generation, with 23% of millennials having a bachelor’s degree or higher (“Demographic Stats). Psychographics Our target market is made up of the millennial segments, the “Mavens” and “Trend Setters”. These segments encompass both the younger and older millennials we plan to target. The “Trend Setters” refer to the younger millennials in their early 20’s, who are active on social media, and heavily influenced by technology, and becoming more socially conscious, due to readily available information on the internet. The “Mavens” refer to the older millennials, on their late 20’s to early 30’s, who have the highest income level, and focus on investing in quality products. (Oracle, 7 & 10) Consumer Behavior In today’s society the Internet influences almost all buying decisions consumers make, with consumers looking to the internet as a trusted source for product information and recommendations before making purchases. With product information more readily available, millennials have become more socially conscious and have been reported to stop buying from brands they consider to have unacceptable social practices (Lewis). Along with becoming socially conscious, more consumers are abandoning fast-fashion brands as they are no longer interested in buying products frequently, instead they are focused on investing in quality products that last and have long term benefits, meaning that it is the perfect time to create a sustainable brand as it appeals to the buying behaviors of the new millennial (Lewis). 82
Customer ProďŹ le: The Urban Millennial Our customer approaches life with a minimalist aesthetic, weather it’s how they dress or how they decorate their apartment. They appreciate brands who cater to their aesthetic and they like clothes that aren’t necessarily trendy but are functional and transitional. They are looking for a brand that not only fits their aesthetic, but one that is environmentally conscious as well.
83
Appendix F POST PURCHASE
POST PURCHASE CONSUMER DECISIONS Based on the results of a survey we conducted, there is room for improvement when it comes to the post-purchase garment treatment, and disposal practices our consumers currently use. The majority of our consumers wash and dry clothes in a machine, having a costly impact when it comes to energy, and money spent buying new garments due to the reduced durability the machines cause to the fibers. Another area of improvement is to encourage consumers to adopt these sustainable practices, and educate them on how their decisions from seeking out sustainable brands, to how often they wash their clothes, and in what temperature what, impacts a product’s life cycle, and in the long term how that overall effects the environment.
84
85
Appendix G ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT When you are buying the clothes that you put on your body, do you think about how you could be impacting the environment? Fashion has a huge impact on the environment. Unless it is labeled “Fair Trade” or “Organic” the majority of the clothes we wear have toxic additives (Greer). More insecticides are used in conventionally grown cotton than any other single crop. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency considers 7 of the top 15 pesticides used in cotton as “possible,” “likely,” “probable,” or “known” human carcinogens (Greer). Organic cotton needs 20% – 50% more land to produce the same amount of conventionally grown cotton. Synthetic fabrics can take up to 200 years to biodegrade, which is why our brand is using materials that are 100% recyclable (The Reformation). In fashion, 2.6% of the global water usage goes to the apparel industry, and 17% to 20% water pollution is from fabric dyes (Jackson). Textile production uses 1 trillion gallons of water, 33 trillion gallons of oil, and 20 billion pounds of chemicals annually. Americans are throwing away over 14 million textiles a year (The Reformation). When they are in a landfill, the clothes take time to biodegrade they don’t just disappear. Because of the natural fabrics we are using, they can be broken down or be repurposed into new and different sustainable items. XXY does not use pesticides in the growing of our fibers. The CO2 emission standards from household use are 4 tons a year per person, and our garments will have annual CO2 emissions of 5.79 pounds. So as you can see, there is a significant change, and it will be much better for the environment. Because the pieces do not need to be put into the dryer, that will reduce the environmental impact as well (Katie Dombeck Calculator). Child labor is another big factor when it comes to the fashion industry. There are 246 million Child Workers aged 5-14 (Challa). According to the International Labor Organization, there are around 260 million children in employment around the world. 86
An estimated 170 million are engaged in child labor. That is why our company has stable and safe working environments, and all employees receive fair wages (Moulds). Because our items are made with the finest organic and innovative materials, our garments are more personal. Sustainable fashion makes it easier for consumers to take care of their clothes, and it helps save them money as well. Also, the textiles being used here at XXY go beyond your common sustainable materials, to provide the newest and most organic pieces to fill your wardrobe. All of these information graphics and research shows that consumers should be paying more closely to the fabrics, materials, and production of the clothes that they are putting on their bodies. This is why at XXY we are producing our garments in the United States and are based in Manhattan. By using the newest and most sustainable textiles we are committed to our customers having luxurious fashion without the price of hurting the environment.
87
XXY’s Impact At XXY, our products will be eco-friendly and organic, and we are taking several actions to help in the elimination of hurting the environment. Our garments are being manufactured in New York in safe working conditions, sweatshop free, and the employees making the products are getting a fair wage. Because all of our products are not coming from overseas, we are reducing emissions on the transportation of the products. Our products will not end up sitting landfills because all of our items are recyclable and biodegradable because we are using closed-looped materials. We are also saving water because our garments can be hand washed instead of using a washing machine.
88
CLOTHING CARE CALCULATOR Your CLOTHING CARE COSTS: Annual Utilities Costs Household Energy: per person:
$0.40
% from Heating Water: % from Drying:
0.00% 0.00%
Household Water: per person:
$0.40
External Environmental Costs
$4.24 $4.24
$1.91
Costs to handle the effects of pollution from energy and water consumption
Annual CO2 Emissions: Household Total: per person:
CO2 Sequestrating Equiv: 0.00 Forested Acre 0.00 Forested Acre
5.79 lbs 5.79 lbs
CO2 Emmision Standards from Household Use
% from Your Clothing Care
US Average (2006):
4.00 tons/yr/person
Kyoto - US Goal of 7% Drop*:
2.54 tons/yr/person 1.09 tons/yr/person
Scientists - 60% Drop*:
0.14% 0.23% 0.53%
Ave Household uses ~9% ~9% of their total electricity for cleaning clothes clothes, (if they have an electric water heater)
* based on 1990 CO2 emission levels and figured for current US Popullation
Tips to Save Money and Reduce Your Enviro Impact Energy/yr Only wash in Cold/Cold
$0.00
Wash 50% less loads
-$0.20
Adjust water levels to load size You do adjust water levels
Water/yr
Enviro Cost/yr
CO2 Em/yr
Cars off Road/yr
$0.00
0.00
0.0000
-$2.12
-$0.95
-2.89
0.0003
$0.00
$0.00
$0.00
$0.00
0.00
0.0000
Energy Star or Front-loading*
$0.00
Machine dry only 15 min/load
$0.00
$0.00
0.00
0.0000
Don't machine dry at all*
$0.00
$0.00
0.00
0.0000
You already don't dry your clothes * These options can also increase the life of your clothes!
89
Appendix H SOURCING YAK DOWN FIBER Reywa Fibers creates yak down from the fibers of the Tibetan Yak. They stated their first priority is to help Tibetan children continue their educations, to enable them to study until they have credentials needed to find steady and quality employment. Each purchase of Reywa yarns enables them to put money back into Tibetan communities. Whether it’s in student sponsorships or grasslands preservation, each bundle of yarn sold, each hand knit project finished, results in tangible impact in the lives of individuals, families and communities. Yak fiber, with a diameter of 15-20 microns, it is comparable to cashmere in softness while being 10-15% warmer than merino wool. It is naturally hypo-allergenic, and stays warm even when wet. Its natural breathability helps the body regulate its heat, keeping the wearer warm in the cold and cooler when the temperature rises. Yak down is extremely rare, with each animal producing an average of only a kilogram of fiber annually. We will be working with Manufacture NY, VF to produce all the fabrics we use in our collection including our Yak Down sweater, which will wholesale at $269 (Reywa Fibers).
AIRNEST Scafe Fabrics invented a neoprene alternative called Airnest. The sustainable technology was developed from four years of research and hard work. The company combined PET recycled bottles and processed spent coffee grounds and form the “masterbatch.” From the masterbatch, they transform them into yarns and eventually different types of S.Café® fabrics with numerous functions. S. Café® technology, with a low-temperature, high-pressure and energy saving process, combines coffee grounds onto the yarn surface, changing the characteristics of the filament, and offers up to 200% faster drying time compared to cotton. Also, the micro-pores on S. Café® coffee grounds absorb odors and reflect UV rays. Airnest consists of 75% of PU foam and 25% of bio compound which replaces 25% of total petroleum in the traditional PU foam that you find in the market (Scafe Fabrics). 90
BIONIC YARN Bionic Yarn was created by Pharrel Williams to achieve sustainability without sacrificing quality. First, plastic bottles and food trays are collected from municipal sites, cleaned, sorted, crushed into flakes and made into a polyester fiber. This is blended with cotton fiber, which is finally woven with traditional cotton yarn to create the denim (Pharrel Williams). The look and feel seems no different to traditional denim, apart from the color of the inside, which varies according to the hue of the plastic used in the weave: brown, green or clear. This yarn wholesales for $105 and retails for $205. Bionic DPX yarn is made by blending recycled ocean plastics fibers with other fibers such as cotton, the DPX yarn creates fabrics strong as they are soft. Bionic HLX yarn structure delivers high durability and refined quality. As functional and aesthetic requirements vary, so do the fibers for the Helix and core of the yarn. Bionic HLX using natural fibers produce fabrics up to 400% stronger than those of comparable weight and fiber type woven from conventional yarns (Bionic Yarn). To get our jeans black without chemically dying them, natural black dye can be created using water, tannins, and iron. Any natural material can be colored a black tone by first soaking the item in a tannic acid solution. Then the material is immersed in a second solution of iron salt to give it the permanent dark pigment. Our denim jeans’ wholesale price is $102 (Dino Labiste).
QMILCH Qmilch, made from Qmilk fiber is soft, as well as gentle on the skin and made from 100% natural and renewable raw materials. The company Qmilk, started as a classic start-up with just the idea to develop a fiber that is chemically untreated. Sustainability is an integral part of their corporate culture and they state that they “are committed to our corporate values to work sustainable and in a socially responsible manner. In the focus of our sustainable policy are our products, innovations and technologies. We set new standards in the field of man-made fiber.� The Qmilk fiber is one of the protein fibers such as wool and silk because of its basis of milk proteins. You can compare the fiber in its touch most likely with silk. Because of its smooth surface it is ideal for sensitive skin and gives the feeling of wearing a touch of silk. Tests have shown that Qmilk offers natural UV protection and therefore especially in garment provides additional protection from the sun. And the Qmilk fiber is completely biodegradable and thus provides not only in its production, but also in all its life cycle a positive contribution to the environment. Our Leggings and Shorts are made from this material. The Leggings will wholesale at $80, while our shorts wholesale price is $46 (Qmilk). 91
MICRO TENCEL Tencel is the lyocell fiber from the house of Lenzing. Lenzing makes products from the renewable raw material wood while at the same time meeting its environmental responsibilities. They consider environmental protection and a safe mode of production to be vital. Tencel is of botanic origin, since it is extracted from the raw material wood. Fiber production itself is extremely ecofriendly, due to the closed loop system. Textiles of Tencel are more absorbent than cotton, softer than silk and cooler than linen. The unique closed loop process makes Tencel the fiber of the future since the solvent used is recycled by almost 100% in the closed loop process. Tencel has a unique fibril structure. Fibrils (extremely small hairs) are the tiniest components which make up the fiber. Submicroscopic channels between the individual fibrils regulate absorption and release of moisture. Thus, these tiny fibrils assure the optimum transportation of moisture. Compared to synthetic fibers, the optimum moisture transportation of Tencel is unique. The fibril structure of the fiber helps create an optimal skin climate due to the superior moisture absorption. Synthetic fibers do not absorb any moisture as the comparison shows. Our Button-Down Shirt made with the Micro-Tencel will wholesale at $62, and our Long T-shirt will wholesale at $44 (Lenzing).
CRAiLAR Crailar is a yarn with the same warmth and feel of organic cotton, but with characteristics, such as tencel strength. Crailar Technologies Company is focused on providing textile, composite and pulping solutions, through the processing of industrial hemp, and other bast fibers. The Crailar process cleans and polishes raw bast fiber, such as flax, hemp, kenaf and jute bast fibers, into fiber substantially equivalent to ginned cotton. Bast fiber plants grow abundantly and, when compared with cotton, require 97% less water and substantially less herbicides, fertilizers and pesticides. The Crailar fiber technology is a process, which works with bast fiber feedstocks. Bast fiber plants grow without excessive water, herbicide, fertilizer and pesticide use. Crailar fibers dramatically reduces chemical and water usage; and the USDA designated CRAiLAR as a 100% BioPreferred速 product. Our Turtleneck is made with the Crailar fabric and will wholesale at $42 (Crailar Technologies). 92
RECYCLED NYLON Recycled Nylon was created by The Econyl® brand, which stands for a cleaner environment-freeing the world from waste, pollution and the exploitation of natural resources. They state “It’s about the regeneration of nylon waste into materials for new products. It’s about the regeneration of our environment. It’s about the regeneration for life.” The ECONYL® brand was inspired by Giulio Bonazzi, President and CEO of the Aquafil Group. He firmly believes in maximizing sustainability through closed-loop manufacturing systems. From ECONYL® two types of yarns are produced: BCF and NTF. BCF yarns are used in the creation of synthetic carpet floorings, while NTF yarns are used in textiles. The first step to NTF yarns is waste rescue, then water preparation, de-polymerization, and finally polymerization. Our Raincoat is made with the Recycled Nylon, and will wholesale at $75 (ECONYL).
93
Appendix I PRODUCT DESCRIPTIONS 01. DAKOTA TEE
Our Dakota Tee provides a loose, relaxed fit. The Micro Tencel fibers keep you cool by regulating the moisture absorbed into the fabric. This basic tee is a wardrobe essential, and can be styled or paired with any of our products. CARE Micro Tencel t-shirts can be washed in the washing machine, but must be dripped dried. The best way to care for you t-shirts is to wash them by hand with a gentle soap. Our T-shirts are shrink resistant, however will shrink up to 3% on the first drying cycle. T-shirt’s may be ironed, but keep on low heat to prevent melting the fabric. If you plan on storing your T-shirt make sure it is clean and dry and placed in a well-ventilated space. Do not store in plastic bags. We recommend you hand washing your garment to save water. If you must use a washing machine was clothes in cold water to reduce energy usage, and hang them to dry. Use mild soaps and detergents.
02. DREW BUTTON DOWN
Our Drew Button Down provides a loose fit and casual feel. The CRAiLAR fibers provide strength to the fabric, making our product durable and long lasting. CARE Machine Washable with warm water. Wash colors in cold water. Use mild soaps and detergents. Do not use any bleach because it may damage the fabric. Tumble dry on warm. We recommend hand washing in warm water to reduce energy used in washing in a machine. We also suggest laying flat out to dry to reduce energy from drying in a machine.
03. HUNTER TEE
Our Hunter Tee provides a loose, relaxed fit. The Micro Tencel fibers keep you cool by regulating the moisture absorbed into the fabric. This basic tee is a wardrobe essential, and can be styled or paired with any of our products. 94
CARE Micro Tencel t-shirts can be washed in the washing machine, but must be dripped dried. The best way to care for you t-shirts is to wash them by hand with a gentle soap. Our T-shirts are shrink resistant, however will shrink up to 3% on the first drying cycle. T-shirt’s may be ironed, but keep on low heat to prevent melting the fabric. If you plan on storing your T-shirt make sure it is clean and dry and placed in a well-ventilated space. Do not store in plastic bags. We recommend you hand washing your garment to save water. If you must use a washing machine was clothes in cold water to reduce energy usage, and hang them to dry. Use mild soaps and detergents.
04. RILEY SWEATER
Our Riley sweater is made of luxurious Yak Down fabric. This piece is great for layering and its tight interlocking knit keeps you warmer than Merino Wool. This garment is ethically made and supports the welfare of communities in Tibet. CARE
We recommend you limit the amount of washes to prevent sagging and stretching. This garment is hand washable. Use mild wool soap to gently scrub out stains and rinse thoroughly. To dry lay it on a towel and reshape it as it dries.
05. BROOKLYN TURTLENECK Our Brooklyn turtleneck is a timeless staple for any wardrobe, with a classic, slim fit. This
shirt will keep you cool due to the Micro Tencel fibers regulating the moisture that is absorbed into the fabric. CARE Micro Tencel t-shirts can be washed in the washing machine, but must be dripped dried. The best way to care for you t-shirts is to wash them by hand with a gentle soap. Our T-shirts are shrink resistant, however will shrink up to 3% on the first drying cycle. T-shirt’s may be ironed, but keep on low heat to prevent melting the fabric. If you plan on storing your T-shirt make sure it is clean and dry and placed in a well-ventilated space. Do not store in plastic bags. We recommend you hand washing your garment to save water. If you must use a washing machine was clothes in cold water to reduce energy usage, and hang them to dry. Use mild soaps and detergents.
95
06. SAWYER JEANS
Our relaxed fit Sawyer jeans are durable and made to last. Made from Bionic Yarn, our jeans are made from natural and recycled plastic fibers. The wrapped yarn structure creates a tight and strong fiber that can withstand many wears. Our pants are made up of 85% Cotton, this includes the bottles that were made into the fabric, as well as 15% Polyester. They are treated with natural dye, that doesn’t require any chemicals. CARE We recommend washing the jeans in cold water to reduce energy usage, and hanging them to dry. The less frequently you wash you jeans, the longer they last. Instead of washing your jeans frequently you can store them in the freezer to kill bacteria.
07. TYLER LEGGINGS
Our Tyler leggings are perfect for casual and sophisticated wear. Made from QMilch fibers, the fitted leggings have a silk like texture that does not smell or become dirty easily. They are comfortable and easy to lounge in or can be restyled for a night out. The recycled material is hypoallergenic and is soothing to the skin. CARE Our leggings may be washed in a washing machine with cold water. The fabric is very durable so it will last through many washes. Use mild soaps and detergents. We recommend hand washing your garment because it uses less water than using a washing machine. If you do use a washing machine use cold water to reduce energy costs. This fabric last longer when it is dry cleaned, if you choose to use a dry cleaner, we recommend using a “Green Dry Cleaning Company” that uses more environmentally friendly chemicals that have less of an negative impact, and reduce pollution of ground water.
08. AVERY SHORTS
Our Avery shorts provide a sporty chic appeal. Our shorts are comfortable and durable. They are able to last many cycles of wear and wash, and do not get dirty easily nor absorb odor. The smooth and silky texture is soothing to the skin, and the recycled QMilch material is hypoallergenic. CARE Shorts may be washed in a washing machine with cold water. The fabric is very durable so it will last through many washes. 96
We recommend hand washing your garment, because it uses less water than using a washing machine. If you do use a washing machine use cold water to reduce energy costs. Use mild soaps and detergents.
09. DEVON RAIN JACKET
Our rain jacket is made out of recycled nylon that is tightly woven to protect you from the elements. It is water resistant to keep you dry with its double layers of protection. The jacket also sports a functional front pocket with zipper closure. Our rain jacket is sustainably made with only recycled nylon and diminishes its carbon footprint by reducing waste and reusing all parts of the creation process. CARE Recycled Nylon can be washed in the washing machine with cool water. Use mild detergent and hang to dry. Do not bleach. We recommend to hand wash your garment which uses less water than using a washing machine. If you do use a washing machine use cold water to reduce energy costs.
10. BLAKE BLAZER Our blazer is both sophisticated and cool. The foam material is both light weight and comfortable. CARE
When washing, first run the garment under water for several minutes. After you have rinsed off your garment squeeze the water out. Repeat the process with fresh water. Add a ½ tablespoon of mild detergent to a basin of water and thoroughly mix it. Submerge you garment into the solution and let it sit there for several minutes or hours depending on how dirty your garment is. You may also scrub out dirt from the surface of the garment. After letting the garment sit, rinse thoroughly several times to ensure that all the dirt and cleaning solution is no longer in the garment. Hang to dry.
97
Appendix J PACKAGING
We care about being a fully sustainable brand at XXY, even when it comes to our packaging. All of the materials used to produce our packaging are made up of recycled materials. Our shipping box is made out of recycled cardboard, when we ship items instead of using tissue paper and plastic we put garments inside our reusable fabric tote bag made out of recycled fabric, polypropylene. In stores we use our recycled fabric tote bags as well, or our recycled paper bags. Our in store hangers are environmentally friendly, as they are made our of bamboo.
98
99
100
$
Appendix K Nike MSI Nike has researched into the environmental sustainability of the materials that they use. Through the partnership with Earthster, NIke came out with the Materials Sustainability Index (MSI). The index is used to boost the environmental performance on product categories such as footwear and apparel products.
Dakota Tee Environmental Impact: Lyocell (similar to Tencel) vs. Wool Nike MSI Score: 30.2 60% Less Water 75% Less Energy 54% Better Chemistry
Environmental Impact: Hemp (Similar to Crailar) v. Cotton MSI Score: 22.5 7% Less water than cotton 5% Less waste than cotton
Hunter Tee
Riley Sweater
Environmental Impact: Lyocell (similar to Tencel) vs. Cotton Nike MSI: 37.5 56% Less Water 10% Less Energy 29% Better Chemistry 30% Less Waste 102
Drew Button Down
Environmental Impact: Down (Similar to yak down)vs. Wool Nike MSI: 37.5 60%Less Water 84% Less Energy 63% Better Chemistry 15%Less Waste
Brooklyn Turtleneck
Tyler Leggings
Environmental Impact: Lyocell (similar to tencel) vs. Wool Nike MSI: 30.2 60% Less Water 75% Less Energy 54% Better Chemistry 6% More Waste
Environmental Impact: Polylactice acid (similar to Qmilch) vs. Cotton Nike MSI: 25.7 57% Less Water 81% Less Energy 85% Better Chemistry 58% More Waste
Sawyer Jeans
Avery Shorts
Environmental Impact: Polylactice acid (similar to Qmilch) vs. Cotton Nike MSI: 25.7 57% Less Water 81% Less Energy 85% Better Chemistry 58% More Waste
Environmental Impact: Polylactic acid (similar to Qmilch) vs. Leather, grassfed Nike MSI: 25.7 25% Less Water 89% Less Energy 55% Worse Chemistry 76% More Waste
Devon Rain Jacket
Blake Blazer
Environmental Impact: Nylon 6 (similar to recycled nylon) vs. Polyester Nike MSI: 16.4 2% Better Chemistry 50% More Energy 30% More Water 68% More Waste
Environmental Impact: EVA Foam (similar to Airnest) v. Rubber Nike MSI: 32.5 14% Less Water 14% Less Energy 59% Better Chemistry 53% Less Waste 103
VII
Works Cited “6.” ECONYL. Web. 12 Oct. 2015. “Black/Gray Stretch Jersey Backed Neoprene”. Mood Fabrics. N.d. Web. 20 Oct, 2015. Bellware, Kim. “Gender-Neutral Bathrooms Are Quietly Becoming The New Thing At Colleges.” The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, n.d. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. “Bionic Yarn.” Bionic Yarn. Web. 10 Oct. 2015. “Black Dye.” Black Dye. Web. 10 Oct. 2015. Bland, Bob. “Manufacture New York: A New Sustainable Model for U.S. Fashion Production. Sustainable Brands. n.d. Web. 17 Oct 2015. Borromeo, Leah. “Spinning Sour Milk into Silky Fibers.” The Gaurdian. n.d. Web. 16 Oct 2015. Carvico and Jersey Lomellina. n.d. Web. 23 Oct 2015 Challa, Lakshmi. “Impact Of Textiles And Clothing Industry On Environment: Approach Towards Eco-Friendly Textiles Free Textile Industry Articles Fibre2fashion.com.” Impact Of Textiles And Clothing Industry On Environment: Approach Towards Eco-Friendly Textiles Free Textile Industry Articles Fibre2fashion.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. Cone Denim. n.d. Web. 22 Oct 2015 “Crailar Technologies Inc.” News. Web. 8 Oct. 2015. “Crailar Technologies Inc. CRLRF Board.” Investors Hub. Web. 8 Oct. 2015. “Demographic Stats About US Millennials.” MarketingCharts. N.p., 24 Feb. 2014. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. Derespina, Cody. “Target Going Gender Neutral in Some Sections.” Fox News. FOX News Network, 13 Aug. 2015. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. Diaz, Jesus. “These Women are Wearing Clothes Made of Real Milk”. Gizmodo. . n.d. Web. 14 Oct 2015 Drozdiak, Natalia. “German Fashion Designer Makes Fabric From Milk”. Reuters. n.d. Web. 15 Oct 2015. “Fiber.” Qmilk. Web. 10 Oct. 2015 Greer, Beth. “The Truth About the Clothes We Wear: How Fashion Impacts Health and the Environment.” The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, 01 July 2013. Web. 20 Oct. 2015.
106
.“G-Star: RAW for the Oceans.” Denim from Recycled Ocean Plastic. Web. 8 Oct. 2015. “How Milk Fabric is Made.” The Adair Group. n.d. Web., 16 Oct 2015. Jackson, Jacqueline. “Environmental Leader.” Environmental Leader RSS. N.p., 06 Oct. 2014. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. Laguna Fabrics. n.d. Web. 22 Oct 2015. Lewis, Robin. “Millennials: Double Trouble For Retailers.” Forbes. Forbes Magazine, 30 Apr. 2014. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. “Lyocell” How Products are Made. n.d. Web. s Mann, Juliet, “Don’t Cry Over Spilled Milk it could become a Skirt.” CNN. . n.d. Web. 13 Oct 2015 Moulds, Josephine. “Child Labour in the Fashion Supply Chain.” N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. <https://www.thereformation.com/about-us#fashion>. Oracle. A New Perspective on Millennials: Segmenting a Generation for Actionable Insights for CG Companies & Retailers - White Paper | Oracle (n.d.): 10. Web. Ryan, Hugh. “Is Gender-Neutral Clothing the Future of Fashion?” TakePart. N.p., 19 Mar. 2015. Web. 19 Oct. 2015. PR News Wire. n.d. Web 15 Oct 2015. Preus, Janet. “Make it from Milk.” Advanced Textile Source. n.d. Web. 16 Oct. 2015. Rodie, Janet Bealer. “Fiber First.” Textile World. n.d. Web.16 Oct 2015 “S.Café®- Index.” S.Café®- Index. Web. 13 Oct. 2015. Shokay. n.d. Web. 23 Oct 2015. Singtex.n.d. Web. 22 Oct 2015. “SUSTAINABLE FASHION.” More Intelligent Life. N.p., 2010. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. “Tag Archives: Functional Fabric.” SINGTEX. Web. 12 Oct. 2015. “TENCEL®.” TENCEL®. Web. 13 Oct. 2015. “The Nike Materials Sustainability Index.” Brown and Wilmanns Environmental. N.p., n.d. Web 19 Oct, 2015. “The NPD Group Reports 5 Percent Growth in U.S. Men’s Apparel Market.” NPD Group. N.p., 01 May 2014. Web. 20 Oct. 2015. “Yak Down.” - Reywa Fibers. Web. 12 Oct. 2015.
107