Total Grooming Magazine July- August 2012

www.totalgroomingmagazine.co.uk

July/August 2012

Review Veteran groomer Barbara Bird in Scotland

Tricks of the trade Tips from an industry expert

Step by step The teddy bear trim

Latest news The British Dog Grooming Championship 2012

Designing a salon

to suit your business How to make the space you have work for you

Contents

W

elcome to Total Grooming Magazine! In this first edition we’ve gathered news, reviews, tips and tricks from some well-known names in British grooming. You can pick up advice on training from Director of Smartpets Grooming School, Nichola Moore, get a few handy hints on designing your salon from Lesley Garratt of the Canine Design Academy of Grooming and read step-by-step guides on how to achieve the teddy bear trim and the Lakeland look. Turn to page four to read about the recent Art and Science of Grooming seminar led by veteran groomer Barbara Bird and get details of the forthcoming British dog Grooming Championship on page 40.

I’d love to know what you’d like to read about in future editions and to hear from you about the issues that are affecting your business, so why not drop me a line?

I do hope you’ll enjoy your first glimpse of our new magazine.

Amy Woodland www.totalgroomingmagazine.co.uk

on the cover: Digby photo courtesy of Hamilton Studios. www.hamiltonstudios.com

06 Paws for thought 04 Barbara Bird lands in scotland

23

06 Paws for thought Our monthly business profile

08 From prospect to client How to get the customers you want

14 Insuring for successful grooming Tales from a pet insurer

16 Get in training for good business The importance of qualifications

17 the total Grooming giveaway We’re giving away 500 bottles of Animology Knot Sure De-tangle spray FREE – find out how to claim yours

21 the pet trim A guide to the Lakeland look

26 tips and tricks Everyday grooming by Alison Rogers

editor

Design and Production

Amy Woodland – editor@totalgroomingmagazine.co.uk

Grant Waters – grant@cimltd.co.uk James Taylor – james@cimltd.co.uk T: 01795 509108

Publication Manager

The Pet Trim

A review of the recent Art of Grooming seminar

Mike Smith – mike@cimltd.co.uk T: 01795 509110 F: 01795 591065

Credit Facilities Manager

studio Manager

Chief executive

Paula Smith – paula@cimltd.co.uk T: 01795 509107

John Denning – jdenning@cimltd.co.uk

Vickie Crawford – vickie@cimltd.co.uk T: 01795 509103

28 the ergonomics of your grooming salon Designing your workplace

32 Dog hayfever Symptoms, remedies and advice

34 the teddy bear trim made easy A step-by-step guide

38 How to make a start on a career in grooming Advice from an industry insider

40 A leading force in pet care News from the Pet Care Trade Association © 2012 CIM Online Limited, The Goods Shed, Jubilee Way, Whitstable Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 8GD. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope. Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to CIM Online Limited. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

Total Grooming Magazine | 3

Barbara Bird Lands in Scotland Award-winning American pet groomer Barbara Bird recently paid a visit to British shores where she led an educational seminar organised by Trudy Anderson. Here, Trudy recalls the events of a memorable day…

“C

an we talk about butt wipes?” asked the petite septuagenarian in funky animal printsoled shoes. Not for the first time that morning the audience chuckled at her humorous delivery of otherwise earnest subject matter – the substance behind ‘natural’ product marketing.

Barbara Bird, the veteran American pet groomer and award-winning educator, writer and public speaker, known on the web as BBird, was on British soil. She presented a day packed with content at an event in Scotland where educational grooming seminars are about as rare as a flock of unmatted bichons.

The Art and Science of Grooming on Sunday July 15, 2012 attracted dog groomers from all over Scotland and the north of England. Such is the appetite to learn from Barbara’s vast repository of knowledge, developed during more than 40 years in pet grooming. The body of work for which she is considered authoritative is unique on the groomer public speaking circuit – delving into the science which underpins products and canine hair.

Her talent is her ability to distil the technical jargon, communicating with clarity and humour, in an unforgettably entertaining way. Barbara spoke about trends and issues in the pet grooming marketplace with references to product development, marketing, styling products and product ingredients – with a little chemistry thrown in. The afternoon’s topic was choosing and using products. This delved further into the chemistry of various products, the science of coat preparation and how to use particular products to best effect.

Anecdotes from decades of experience interjected Barbara’s presentations and 4 | Total Grooming Magazine

Bbird in full swing

the personal examples brought the content to life. Barbara’s Blues-style dog grooming ditty was a particular highlight which provided some postlunch entertainment. Her original style of delivery is endearing and on this occasion her charm proved irresistible yet again. There’s no better way to showcase grooming artistry than through live demonstration and during the course of the day and Barbara worked with Pammie Carmichael-Hogg of Doncaster Dog Grooming on two live grooming demonstrations – each using two doggy models. A well-known face on the grooming circuit, Pammie has a passion for the eastern (Japanese) style of grooming; characterised by a plushy finish and detailed sculpted styling. There is significant demand for practical, everyday, non-breed standard styling, with increasing demand from groomers for ‘something different’. Eastern styling with its sheer

variety of detailing offers groomers an inexhaustible portfolio of styling opportunities. The live demonstrations saw Barbara and Pammie artfully apply their technical skills to Mimi, a Lhasa apso, and Panda, a bichon x poodle mixed breed to create aestheticallyappealing styles – a great opportunity for groomers to pick up tips for creating for some of their own canine clients.

For more information, photos and feedback visit The Art & Science of Grooming’s Facebook event page.

Pammie doing her thing with Panda

DEZYNADOG TOTAL GROOMING JUL12_Layout 1 19/07/2012 13:50 Page 1

Paws for thought...

In each edition of Total Grooming we are asking one business owner to pause for thought and spend a bit of time sharing the story behind their business.

Our first volunteer is 38-year-old Denis Lambret, owner of Your Dog Grooming Salon in Rainham…

Why dog grooming?

When I first moved to Kent from London, I struggled to find somewhere to have my dog, Ningus, groomed.

When I found a grooming salon, there was a four-month waiting list so I thought there was a gap in the market.

I was working in insurance and I’d had enough of working for someone else and I thought there was a great opportunity for a business.

How did you start?

I did an intensive 30-day course at Animal Magic in Headcorn and opened a very small salon in Chatham. After 18 months I needed a bigger premises as business was going so well and I needed another member of staff. We moved to a medium-sized premises and we are now in our third premises, which was purpose built.

And how is business now?

We’ve been here for about four years and we’ve not been affected by the recession. In fact, business keeps getting better. We are booked up four weeks in advance so I always recommend customers to book their next appointment when they are here.

What services are offered?

We take any breed – from small to big dogs. We have hydraulic tables so they can be lowered to suit the dog and we use only organic products for

bathing and grooming. We use handheld dryers and finish each grooming session with a doggy cologne! We don’t ask for the dogs to be left with us all day – usually we ask for owners to leave their dogs for a maximum of two-and-a-half hours but they are welcome to stay if they prefer. We have a little boutique in the reception area (currently undergoing refurbishment) where we sell a small selection of hand-picked items. My partner started a doggy day creche at the premises two years ago too, so owners can leave their dogs with us for the day if they need to. That business is also going well but we deliberately keep the numbers to six or seven dogs as each needs individual attention.

What makes a good groomer?

You need to listen to what your customers want. When I took Ningus, a cotton de tuléar, to a groomer when I first moved to Kent, he came out totally shaved, not styled like he should have been so I know what it’s like to feel disappointed. You need to know the traditional styles for each breed, but also to listen to what the customer wants. The lifestyle of the customer and the dog needs to be taken into account – if they do a lot of walking in muddy fields they might prefer a shorter style. If it is necessary to shave a dog, if the hair is matted for example,

you need to explain what you are doing.

I like to have an open grooming area as many customers don’t like to leave their dogs. This way they can see what we are doing and that is very important to them. Nothing is done behind closed doors. The best advertising is word of mouth – if you do a good job, people will recommend you. We offer a good service but don’t charge over the odds.

People supported me when my business was small and followed me when I moved the business and I appreciate that so I don’t want to push customers away. If you look after your customers, they will come back.

What’s your favourite dog to groom?

Bichons – because there’s no shaving, all the cutting has to be done by hand.

Contact details for Your Dog Grooming Salon: Tel. 01634 372161 www.yourdoggrooming.co.uk

Want to feature in Total Grooming MAGAZINE? send us an email to: editor@totalgroomingmagazine.co.uk or write to us at: Total Grooming Magazine, CIM Online Ltd, The Goods Shed, Jubilee Way, Faversham, Kent, ME13 8GD. 6 | Total Grooming Magazine

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From prospect to client

– the art of customer selection

In tough economic times it can be tempting to agree to groom every dog that comes your way but there’s an art to client selection as Trudy Anderson of Furrynuff Dog Grooming explains…

M

ost groomers will receive phone calls on a regular or perhaps even daily basis from prospective clients.

These calls are likely to be direct and to the point. The prospective client sees you as providing a service and, more than likely, assumes you will be happy to accept their business. In most instances this is true but there is a certain knack to working out 8 | Total Grooming Magazine

whether a caller is a good prospect or not. Imagine… the phone in your salon rings. The caller asks “When’s your next available appointment?” or perhaps “How much do you charge to groom a cocker?”

Most groomers who have survived the inevitable baptism of fire accepting any and every grooming enquiry learn through hard-won experience just how tricky, but critical, the art of

prospective client handling can be. To begin with they are eager; for custom, to please, and to practise newlyacquired skills. But compromising personal safety and canine welfare can be unwise and potentially devastating.

There are sound commercial reasons to screen enquirers and select one’s clientele carefully before agreeing to “cut Fluffy’s hair” or to give Fifi “just a tidy up”.

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Total Grooming Magazine | 9

A tricky business Dog grooming is often compared with hairdressing or the beauty business but the truth is handling dogs safely, humanely and skillfully during professional grooming is very different from a chatty session with a hair stylist.

There are many groomer anecdotes about once-a-yearers, groomer hoppers, disrespectful, neglectful, ignorant or cheapskate owners. These, and tales of aggressive dogs – that have left them questioning their career choice or resulted in injury – can serve as the mistakes other groomers can learn from. Client retention is costly; one appointment is no guarantee of loyal, let alone repeat business. Consider offering appointments to higher-quality prospects that are more likely to cooperate within the boundaries that you have determined for your business.

Accept that not every dog is groomable or, commercially viable to groom.

The initial enquiry is an opportunity to gather information about both enquirer and pet to assess the feasibility of investing time and effort converting the enquirer into a potentially longterm regular client. You’ll need to determine whether it’s worth offering a valuable appointment slot to a possibly transient, or uninformed dog owner intent on booking a one-off appointment at the cheapest price or whether the dog is likely to be a suitable regular professional grooming candidate.

Gathering pertinent information before selling appointment slots is a long term strategy to help groomers operate more time and cost effectively.

The methods used to screen and select vary depending on individual business practices. Some groomers operate a mandatory face-to-face preappointment consultation after the initial enquiry, either free of charge or on a non-refundable deposit basis to cover costs. Others prefer to cut to the chase up-front during the initial enquiry and ask more questions.

Asking the right questions So, just what nuggets of information can be gleaned through conversation?

The skill is in knowing when and 10 | Total Grooming Magazine

how to ask particular questions, then to critically interpret responses, gradually building a mental picture of both prospect and dog. Frank or full disclosure – even to a direct question – isn’t necessarily a given! Successfully obtaining the requisite information relies on confident but approachable communication, in a non-judgemental manner. If timing or location are inappropriate, offer to call back or offer a short pre-appointment consultation at a mutually convenient time later. An impatient enquirer unwilling to wait may simply not be worth any more of your time or effort.

Go online Besides face-to-face and telephone interactions, the internet is increasingly used to attract and convert prospective clients through a business website or social networking. Compelling content can be employed to great

Checklist of information needed from prospective clients 4 Owner name 4 Dog name and breed 4 Requested service 4 Grooming history 4 Coat condition

advantage. You can display policy and pricing information, before-and-after photographs or even automate some business processes – registration, appointment-booking or a testimonial facility, for example – both to communicate the most frequentlyasked information and to showcase competency. This use of technology is an effective way to philosophically ‘set out one’s stall’ through carefully selected and worded content, enabling one to more efficiently manage prospects’ expectations.

The minimum details to secure during the initial enquiry are the owner’s or responsible person’s contact details and the dog’s name, breed and age. More detailed health and temperament information can be obtained during registration or at the first appointment.

After providing these details, an enquirer may automatically volunteer more information to give a reasonable idea whether to offer an appointment.

Great! Note all relevant information, supplementing if necessary with a few specific questions to fill in any blanks.

Some dog owners simply don’t know enough about professional grooming to know what information to provide.

In this case lead the conversation by asking questions, deviating where appropriate and necessary until

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sufficient information has been provided. There are some enquirers who prefer, expect or will only accept a ‘no-questions-asked’ approach to grooming. Reluctance to provide requested information should ring alarm bells. Mentally decide if it’s worth the risk.

Managing expectations Further suggested lines of enquiry will be required to help realistically manage the owner or responsible person’s expectations up front. Sometimes what is asked for cannot be achieved.

For example “just a general tidy up” or “a fluffy trim” simply aren’t easily achievable on a moderately to severely matted coat. Likewise “just a general tidy up” for a long or double coated dog whose coat has been neglected for the past six months or a year is a huge job, with a lot of post-groom cleanup. There is no such thing as “just a bath”. “Just a nail trim” may not be possible on painful feet (with overgrown or even ingrown nails) or if a dog has extreme aversion to its feet being handled. “Just a face trim” has been known to become “can you just trim this too?” “and tidy this a bit” … and so on while “a bit of spruce up” is a mammoth task on a poorly maintained, overgrown coat, more so if it requires trimming or styling.

“Shave it all off for the summer, because my (long, double coated or

12 | Total Grooming Magazine

northern breed) dog is suffering in this heat” requires educating before proceeding with explicit consent and caution. Handstripping may also require educating and significant owner commitment.

Next, to help establish a dog’s amenability and the owner or responsible person’s track record as a professional grooming service user it’s a good idea to find out how the dog’s coat is managed at home, between visits

groomer before?

• What is the dog’s approximate professional grooming appointment schedule?

• What is the approximate date of the last appointment?

• Has the dog visited the same groomer or different groomers?

• Would you be able to run a comb through your dog’s entire coat, all the way down to the skin including the legs/feet/ears/tail?

It’s a good idea to find out how the dog’s coat is managed at home to a professional groomer. You’ll need to remember that brushing and bathing at home aren’t necessarily indicators of the dog’s amenability to the handling, equipment or procedures used in professional grooming are no guarantee of a well managed coat.

If someone says the coat is not maintained at home it may be an opportunity to educate the owner. Or a job to politely decline...

Coat condition It’s sensible to find out about the dog’s professional grooming history and the likely condition of the dog’s coat too.

You might like to ask the following: • Has the dog visited a professional

From a personal safety and canine welfare perspective some questions double as a risk-assessment. These can be deal-making or breaking. The enquirer’s responses may need to be critically considered and if necessary, qualified. An enquirer intent on having his or her dog professionally groomed irrespective of the consequences and without consideration for the dog’s welfare, is very unlikely to care about a groomer’s safety.

Skilled prospect handling can establish in a 5-10 minute conversation whether each enquiry is safe and appointment worthy. Better client selection makes for safer, client-focused and commercially-viable grooming!

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Total Grooming Magazine | 13

Insuring for successful grooming Being trusted to work with people’s pets is a big responsibility and while groomers can take steps to safeguard the animals in their care, there are some things you just can’t prepare for. Having the right type of insurance can help protect your business when accidents happen, as Anja Cantillion of Pet Business Insurance explains…

H

aving specialised in providing insurance for pet-business owners over a number of years I have seen various claims and calamities that groomers and other animal-business owners face on an almost daily basis.

One that comes to mind is a professional groomer with years of experience. Everything was going well until the dog she was grooming twitched, in the way they sometimes do, and she inadvertently nicked the animal’s skin. Nothing she could have done differently would have changed the outcome, but having the correct insurance meant that she was covered when the distraught dog owner started demanding compensation for the injury.

The right cover Through some standard nonnegligent cover the business owner was able to claim her insurance payment within a few weeks.

Unfortunately not all the stories we hear have such satisfactory outcomes, but many business disasters could be diverted just by having a policy with non-negligent cover.

14 | Total Grooming Magazine

Another example of where having the right type of insurance has paid off comes from a pet boarder.

The business owner found that a large dog in their care had, without warning, eaten a substantial amount of carpet and had become severely ill as a result. Through non-negligent insurance the business owner was covered against the compensation claim that the dog’s owner subsequently tried to claim.

Business sense Whether you are starting up in the pet-care industry or simply reviewing your finances, the type of insurance you choose is something you should consider very carefully.

Non-negligent insurance covers business owners against compensation claims when, through no fault of their own, an animal they are responsible for becomes ill or is injured.

For more information about non-negligent cover and clear descriptions of all other insurances see the Pet Business Insurance information pages at www.petbusinessinsurance.co.uk

Get in training for good business

Student Joanne Carson at Smartpets International Animal Care College showing the Westie face and groom she completed

If you’re looking to set up in business as a groomer or simply want to top up your skills – it can be difficult to know where to start. Director of Smartpets Grooming School and International Animal Care College, Nichola Moore, has more than 20 years of experience in the industry and has put together a few tips for anyone seeking training...

T

here are so many training schools and courses for new and practising groomers that trying to choose where to invest your money and time can be a minefield.

With no licensing or regulation in the industry anyone can set up as a groomer, trained or untrained, and the same goes for training schools. Make the wrong choice and it can be an expensive mistake – costing hundreds or even thousands of pounds. There are, however, many reputable training schools where parting with your hard earned cash is a wise investment.

16 | Total Grooming Magazine

As with any practical skill it is impossible to learn without handson tuition so it naturally follows that the best courses will be practical ones. This will usually be the most be expensive way to train as the tutors are giving up the time they would have spent grooming several dogs to teach students on one to two dogs a day. In addition the dogs used in training are normally groomed at a reduced rate or free of charge.

Online and distance learning courses tend to be more affordable and are good options for learning the theory

of grooming but cannot teach practical skills. These are useful options for people already working in a salon with a groomer – the hands-on experience and the theory compliment each other.

The best training will generally come from a training school or private college which has qualified groomers and offers qualifications. The Pet Care Trade Association (PCTA) run the British Dog Groomers’ Association (BDGA) and work in conjuction with NPTC City and Guilds who are the only professional and industry-recognised qualification providers for groomers.

The PCTA not only run the dog grooming qualifications but also accredit training centres so they are a good starting point when looking for training and courses in grooming. You will be assured of the correct industrystandard training and in most cases can work towards recognised qualifications.

The BDGA categorises training centres as Premier Satellite Training Centres, Satellite Training Centres (Standard Plus) and Satellite Training Centres depending on what level of training they are able to offer.

Before enrolling on a course it’s a good idea to compile a list of questions and have a look at the different courses that schools offer and weigh up the pros and cons of each.

Here are some examples of questions and comparisons you need to make.

How long is the course?

The longest course is not necessarily the best – it is more sensible to consider how much practical work there will be. Bear in mind a student training may only be able to groom one or two dogs – it’ll take between two-and-a-half and four hours per dog if completing the full groom from start to finish. Do not be fooled by claims that you will doing four to five dogs per day during training as this may only be parts of a dog. Some courses also spend a lot of time where students are simply bathing and drying dogs. New students do need to learn these skills but you shouldn’t need to spend two weeks on bathing.

Nichola Moore with some of the groomers awarded their LCGI

name, or the advanced dog grooming certificate and some teaching qualifications, preferably the higher diploma which shows a wide range and higher level of experience and knowledge.

Is the school accredited by a professional body?

Look for City and Guilds, NPTC, Pet Care Trade Association or British Dog Groomers’ Association.

Can you visit the school?

How many students will there be on the course?

Call and see if you can make an appointment. Most schools will be happy to set up a time for you to visit and view the school.

In order to have adequate training time for students a tutor should not have any more than three students to tutor.

What’s included in the course?

How much of the course is hands on?

You do not want to spend 50% of the day on theory. At least 75% of the course should be practical as a lot of theory can be done at home.

What qualifications does the tutor have?

A tutor should have at least the City and Guilds, 775 old qualification 18 | Total Grooming Magazine

Students who completed their CPR and first-aid course

Does the course follow just dog grooming? Do you learn all breeds or just particular breeds? Do you learn about salon and business management, CPR and first-aid health care for pets?

Its takes more than just grooming to make a good groomer.

Once you have decided on a school and course it is a good idea to take a taster session. Many schools offer a taster so you can check if grooming is for you – an especially good idea if

A student groomer with a schnazuer she groomed for her level 3 City and Guilds intro assessment

you haven’t worked professionally in a salon. Ultimately, good grooming and business starts with good training.

Invest in yourself – it’s a small price to pay for a great career.

The natural choice for a healthy dog

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f you prefer to use natural products on the dogs you groom, look no further than Hilton Herbs. A market leader in the production of top-quality herbal remedies for animals, Hilton Herbs has been in business for 22 years. All products are formulated in Somerset by a qualified medical herbalist using human-grade herbs and contain no animal by-products, fillers or additives. Great care is taken to source them from accredited suppliers in order to maintain the company’s strong ethical stance.

The canine range of products caters for everything from every-day supplements like the Vital Daily Health, to problem-specific mixes such as Cush X to balance the endocrine system and CDRM which helps support the nervous, musculo-skeletal and circulatory systems.

Of particular interest for groomers are the range of phytocleanse shampoos, Muscle Magic lotion for massage and the TLC lotion for use before and after strenuous exercise.

To find out about more about the product range and special introductory offers for groomers call 01460 270701, email tradesales@hiltonherbs.com or visit our website at www.hiltonherbs.com

More and more people in the UK are investing in hydrobaths to use as part of their dog grooming routine.

But what’s all the fuss about?

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hydrobath is a combination bathtub and power bather that uses a specially-designed recirculation pump. This pump produces a high-volume mix of water and shampoo delivered powerfully enough to penetrate the thickest coats, yet gently enough to massage the skin ¬– all in the fraction of the time taken by normal bathing methods.

The spray head mixes water and shampoo and is powerful enough to penetrate even the thickest of coats ensuring that dirt, debris and parasites are easily removed. It can also help in the prevention and treatment of fleas as it can be used in the application of any necessary treatments - solutions can be mixed and sprayed straight into the coat through the spray head.

In addition to fantastic cleaning, the hydro-combing action of the spray head can be a real treat for your dogs as it provides a good massage which can result in better blood circulation and the relieving of tired muscles – especially good for older dogs. After a hydrobath treatment your dog will feel fresher and even lighter afterwards with improved skin and a healthier coat.

Keep your clients’ pets NATURALLY clean with the Phytocleanse range of shampoos from Hilton Herbs • Formulated by a Medical Herbalist • Tried-and-Tested • Naturally colour enhancing • Anti-fungal • Antiseptic • Low lather • Deep cleansing • Made in the UK Contact us for details of introductory special offers for groomers 01460 270701 tradesales@hiltonherbs.com www.hiltonherbs.com

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Total Grooming Magazine | 19

The Pet Trim feature is sponsored by:

The Pet Trim:

www.simpsons-online.co.uk

Lakeland Terrier

The Lakeland terrier is a robust little dog but should be smart and tailored to look at. Traditionally they should be hand stripped but in this article Amy English from Just 4 Paws grooming salon shows you how you can achieve the same look by using clippers

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aintaining this breed in a stripped coat is not for the faint hearted. It requires a lot of dedication and is something which many owners don’t want or don’t have the time do.

With the use of clippers for the stripped areas the same look can be achieved and this will retain the distinctive Lakeland look.

This breed requires minimal grooming to keep the coat in order

but one issue we find fairly regularly is greasy coats so we use specific shampoos and products to tackle this with great success.

I recommend the breed to be clipped every 10 weeks, depending on coat type.

Before the bath

Before

Before bathing I start by carding the coat through with either a coat king or a coarse stripping knife, this will remove dead undercoat which will in turn help to retain coat texture and colour a little, something which does tend to fade due to clipping. I would normally always rough clip as well but for the sake of demonstrating trimming here, all clipper work is being done after the bath. However it is down to groomer preference as to whether they rough clip before a bath or not.

Total Grooming Magazine | 21

Clip the cheeks using a #30 blade

Throat area being clipped with a #15 blade

Top of head after clipping Scissor round ears to neaten

The head I clip the cheeks and ears with a 30 blade. If you have a dog with a sparse coat, or one that is not used to a shorter blade length, start with a 15 and progress to the shorter blade. A good guide are the three large whiskers which nearly all dogs have, one on each cheek and one under the chin. You don’t want a lot of beard underneath, the head should look clean from all angles!

Your line should start from the corner of the eye to the corner mouth and clip back with the grain to the top corner

of the ear, clipping the entire cheek area. I clip the top of the head with a 10 blade and leave a reverse above the eye area – this is to create the fall over the eyes. The ears should be clipped inside and out with a 30 blade or 15 for dogs with thinner coats. This breed also requires the hair to be plucked from the ears using forceps or your finger and thumb. The eyes on a Lakie should not be visible when viewed from the front – you can trim in the corners a little but do not expose the whole eye as this will create an odd expression and it is the fall over the eyes that gives the breed the distinctive Lakeland look and not one of a Welsh which has separate eyebrows. Use blending shears to shape the fall and beard. No hair should protrude beyond the corner of the eye and this area needs the most blending to hide your clip lines.

Front, rear and hygiene clip lines Clip the entire front with a 10 blade, leaving the hair hanging between the

front legs, no hair should protrude on the chest when viewed from the side.

Clip the underside of the tail, again with the 10 blade, and follow down around the anus and between the rear legs. Use the muscle as a guide to clip inside the rear leg, do not clip lower than the muscle as this will stop the rear legs being shaped properly later on. Lift the dog up and clip up the belly area with a 15 blade, all the way up to the hollow between the first ribs.

Body The body is clipped using a 5f or 7f blade and which you use is dependent on coat thickness. Clip the entire neck and body area stopping at the top of the front leg. The skirt line should fall from underneath the body and not from the sides so ensure you take the line from just under the elbow. When clipping the top of the body stop just in front of the tailset and leave this hair to be blended in later on. This will leave more of a seamless finish rather than the tail looking like it has been stuck on.

Shape of reverse ‘v’ above eyes shown with comb

Card undercoat out using a coat king or coarse stripping knife

Clip body down to top of front leg and follow muscle line on outside of rear leg

22 | Total Grooming Magazine

Clip rear using a #10 or #15 blade

Scissor a line all the way down the very rear of the back leg to the top of the hock

Skirt line shown with comb Remove excess hair that over hangs the pad area Clip line shown with the comb

Lakelands also have very little skirt, it is not like a mini schnauzer that has a fuller skirt underneath.

Scissoring the legs and feet First remove all excess hair which over hangs the pad area, then comb and stack the leg hair so the hair all stands outwards. When you begin scissoring think straight neat lines, dividing the coat into four sections front and rear and inside and outside edge, this will help to make sure the legs do not become over scissored and too rounded, as not all breeds with trimmed legs need to have a poodle finish. The elbows should be kept ultra clean in a line with the side of the body, I find that laying the scissor along the side will give you the correct line to start with. Once the elbow has been cut in, use this line to shape the outside of the leg, yet again following a straight parallel line from the body. I then shape the front and rear of the leg using the same straight lines

but on the rear tailor the top slightly into the elbow. The inside edge should be combed out again and then scissored parallel with the outer edge. Do not pick the leg up and follow the line right up into the armpit as this will make the dog’s front look wide and hollowed out.

The front feet should look part of the leg and not separate at all, just shape them round. For the rear leg, follow the dog’s natural angulation on the stifle area and down into the foot area. They must have a separate leg and foot on the rear. On the rear of the leg take a small line all the way down to the top of the hock to give an ultra-clean appearance to the rear. The hocks should be trimmed straight with no exaggerated angles. Comb all the hair on the inside of the rear legs up and out and scissor in a parallel line with the outside edge.

Scissor rear lines in using straight scissors to give a sharp finish

Rear legs before and after

Comb tail hair over to one side and remove excess with thinners or straight scissors

Use thinners or straights to remove the hair that over hangs each side of the tail

Tail trimmed and blended

Blend the reverse ‘v’ left above the eyes using thinners to create the fall

Total Grooming Magazine | 23

Clean and blend the corners of the eye area so no hair protrudes beyond the eye

EQUIPMENT HIGHLIGHTS Amy has used these products to perfect her Lakeland Terrier trim.

Aesculap Akkurata Trimmer The mains and cordless professional trimmer with 3-stage adjustable blade. It provides cutting lengths equal to No.30, 10 and 8½ making it adaptable for a variety of precision clipping tasks. The Akkurata is supplied with 5 comb attachments, giving a maximum cutting height of 20mm. £199.99 Ref: 4014-005

Mastercut ConvexPro Shears These exceptional hand crafted shears have been created for groomers that demand quality, durability and value. Forged from 440C high carbon Japanese stainless steel for optimal cutting performance and long lasting wear and corrosion resistance.

The 8” finishing shear is the ideal tool for perfecting breed styles and ideal for scissored breeds requiring intensive and prolonged trimming.

Head half complete

Scissoring the skirt and tail The skirt on a Lakeland mainly falls between the front legs and under the rib area, very little hair is left in the tuck up. You need to graduate the length from underneath the legs up to the tuck up in a sharp straight line. As I said previously it is more a hint of a skirt and nothing should flap or really move about. The tail can be trimmed using blenders or straight scissors, which ever you feel most confident with. Firstly comb all the hair left on the tail over to one side and scissor off the excess that over hangs the tail, then comb over the other way and repeat. Now brush the remaining hair back into place and shape to suit the dog. At the same time blend in the hair you left in front of the tail. This will give the dog the correct tailset, if you were to clip straight over the tailset and the entire tail you get left with a role of skin in front of the tail exposed which spoils the outline and

£92.00 Ref: 4051-006 The 7½” texturising shear is one of the largest in its class. Featuring 50 curved teeth, it is designed to create a softer texture to the coat. £105.00 Ref: 4051-009 Contact: Simpsons Tel: 01354 691 830 www.simpsons-online.co.uk

24 | Total Grooming Magazine

The finished Lakeland look

leaves a more amateur look. The tail-set is very important is a distinctive part of a terrier as nearly all should have highset tails off the back and this cannot be achieved by clipping the whole area as this leaves the tail looking low set.

You should now have a smart Lakeland which is a good representation of the breed and is also easily maintained at home by their owner.

Finished head

Tips and tricks

of everyday dog grooming

With 20 years of industry experience, groomer and trainer Alison Rogers of Pretty Paws near Huddersfield, knows what she’s talking about when it comes to grooming. Here she shares some of her techniques for bathing and drying…

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am often asked how I achieve a lovely scissor finish and sometimes people are surprised to find out that I put it down to the preparing of the coat. In my opinion, bathing and drying are the most important parts of grooming. If the dog’s coat isn’t clean enough, you can’t blow dry it to remove dead hair and matted areas effectively.

There are no hard and fast rules to grooming as every dog is different but I try to stick to a fairly set routine when it comes to bathing and grooming.

Setting expectations When an owner arrives with a dog for grooming, you need to give the dog a health check so you have a clear idea of what treatment is needed and what finish is possible. You’ll need to look at the condition of the coat and also examine the skin underneath for sore patches and signs of irritation that are already there. You’ll need to communicate this to the owner up front.

This initial assessment will also help you assess which products and tools will be necessary for your groom.

Before bathing If the dog has very matted hair you will need to make some decisions about whether the finish that has been requested is possible, appropriate and necessary. Grooming out before bathing will help remove the bulk of the matted coat. You can, at this stage, spray with de-matting spray. Leave the spray in the coat for a few minutes and then use a dryer set to cool to blow the coat so it opens the hair up. This will make it easier to brush from the roots outwards with a slicker brush. For bigger areas of matting, you will need to use a matt zapper to groom this out so as not to cause the dog any pain.

Get the best out of your shampoo I believe that using the same shampoo on a dog all the time is not always effective. Changing the shampoo you use can help to keep the coat in better condition. It’s important to consider not only the dog, and coat condition when selecting a shampoo but also the type of water in your area (whether it is hard or dry).

Shampoo on a dry coat I always apply the shampoo on to a dry coat. If you wet the dog first, it can be quite hard to get the shampoo right down in to the coat and the water will close the hair follicles. If you apply the shampoo on a dry coat, any muck and dirt slides out of the coat more easily.

26 | Total Grooming Magazine

Alison Rogers with Pete the Poodle

Use a drying routine Make sure you blast your dogs in a routine fashion so you are not just transferring the water from one area to another. I would suggest starting with the belly and mid area, from under the top of the dog’s back, then tackling the back legs from toes to tail, then the front legs and chest followed by the back of neck. Finally, if the dog will let you, gently blast from the back of head holding the ears. If you are drying a dog with a wool coat, such as a poodle, you should dry from the head first – this will help the coat to dry quicker.

Blow drying If using a cabinet dryer, remember the dogs should only be in for 5 to 10 minutes at any one time. You can take them out and blast them and then return them for longer – but never leave dogs unsupervised in a cabinet dryer – likewise never leave them unsupervised in a bath or on the grooming table. You should use a stand-dryer (superjet) to blow dry or fluff dry. You’ll need to brush from the root of the hair and work on small areas at a time in order not to miss any parts of the dog.

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Award Winning Trainer A

lison Rogers LCGI, has been grooming since she was 16 years old and has run her one grooming salon for 18 years. The business was initially started with the help of the Princes Trust, in response to the growing demands of Alison’s Customers. Alison’s depth of experience includes teaching dog grooming & Animal care at various colleges, teaching NVQ, Btec & national diploma to entry lever and asset. She also teaches the NPTC city and Guilds Level 3 certificate in dog grooming at her salon in Holmfirth.

Alison is qualified to City and Guilds 790 level and has also completed her OCR level 4 qualifications. She is also full qualified City and Guilds 7750 Dog groomer and has completed her higher grooming diploma, is a member of the Guild of Master Groomers and also holds the LCGI in dog grooming.

In her spare time, Alison loves to keep up on her grooming by competing in and judging grooming competitions both home and abroad. She has achieved a number of places, winning the Professional Groomers Championship best in show 2003 and 2004 (she is the only groomer to win these two years in a row). She also finished runner up at the British Dog Grooming Championships 2000 and in 2007 won Groomer of the Year at the British Championships. She has more recently been a member of the England Groom Team 2007 – 2009, where they came 3rd in the world, with Alison competing with a Springer Spaniel.

Having trained many students over the years, Alison has had the pleasure of watching them go on to run successful dog grooming businesses, with some following in her foot steps and entering the competition ring. Her former students have won many placings and newcomer of the year competitions.

As well as this she has shown and bred West Highland White Terriers, Standard Poodles and more recently Bichone Frises, who are doing well in the show ring and hold reserve CCs and CC and have all qualified and won at Crufts, this year Alison has been helping trim Louisanna Will-I-am that was made up to champion in 3 consecutive shows in 30 days. Alison will also be seen on Mikki products the she tries out for the company before they go on sale.

Alison Was the 1st Head groomer at the pet spa at Harrods in London but is back in Yorkshire full time teaching her students or going to their salons to do freelance training so please ask for more info. www.prettypawsgrooming.co.uk

Pretty Paws Grooming & Training Centre.

With Alison Rogers L.C.G.I

Pretty Paws Training Centre Init 12 Albion Mills, Thongsbridge, Holmfirth, Huddersfiled 01484 680390 www.prettypawsgrooming.co.uk

Total Grooming Magazine | 27

The ergonomics

of your grooming salon

You have purchased or rented your shop, converted your garage or had a log cabin built in your garden. The space is a blank canvas at the moment – where do you go from here? Lesley Garratt of the Canine Design Academy of Grooming offers a few pointers…

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here are lots of things that need to be taken into consideration when designing your salon, depending on how much space you have. Do you want an ‘open’ policy where customers can see in to your grooming room, which is a great idea in theory but can cause problems if clients return early to collect their dog.

Imagine: just as you are finishing off the head, the dog goes ballistic trying to get to its owner while the owner is excitedly waving and calling the dog’s name as you are wielding an extremely sharp pair of scissors around the eyes (we’ve all been there). Do you want a dedicated ‘wet room’ to contain all the mess when you are bathing and blasting. What sort of flooring, bathing station and crating area do you want?

Baths There are many different options to consider, all having their own advantages and disadvantages. A hydrobath is very good for the larger breeds. It recycles your water so is economical and environmentally friendly, has a very powerful shower spray which sprays a mixture of shampoo and water right down to the skin, getting the dogs very clean and giving them a good massage at the same time. It is also deep, which keeps the dogs inside the bath with less temptation to jump out and also stops the groomer getting so wet.

It does, however, have a couple of 28 | Total Grooming Magazine

disadvantages. In my opinion, it can be too powerful for very small or delicate breeds. It has no heater in the wash tank so the water does gradually cool down when in use and the rinse tanks can be quite small and run out of water quite quickly – you can overcome most of these problems by having an electric shower installed over the bath. Other disadvantages are that you do tend to get a bit of stagnant water sitting in the pipes underneath the bath and they are also, of course, fairly expensive.

Our standard bath is just a purposemade moulded plastic bath on legs with an electric shower installed overhead.

We have found that our particular bath is a little too low for even the shortest person and is a strain on your back, so my advice would be if you are having a standard bath installed in your salon, make sure you have it set high enough for your use, otherwise you will end up with back problems. In my experience you should install your bath a couple of inches higher than you think you’ll want it to be, as invariably the height you think you need is too low when put into practice.

An electric bath is ideal for groomers of any height and is adjustable from very low to above-waist height. It also comes with an H-frame, so is very useful if you have an awkward dog when you can use a belly strap, as well as a neck noose, to control them. We never found a dog to use the steps which come with this as they are very

unstable and wobbly. The bath does, however, go down quite low and then you are able to help the dogs in.

Other bathing options

Shower trays I have seen systems which are set quite low for the large dogs, with a stand that can be inserted for the small dogs. Some people also have trays installed at floor level for the really large dogs, so they can walk them in, but you will probably get very wet with this method!

Stainless steel baths Purpose-built for the grooming industry and popular with many groomers, these baths are robust and sturdy with a splashback to contain the water and points at which to secure the dogs.

Human bath You can install a standard human bath and have it suspended in a strong wooden cradle at the correct height for your use. You can have the bath built in with cupboard doors at the front in order to keep your salon tidy.

Bathing Beauty A lot of groomers swear by this recycling system which is designed to both save water and give a more pressured spray, spraying a shampoo solution direct into the coat similar to the hydrobath.

You need to put some consideration into how you are going to design your bathing area. Our own salon is openplan and we have a line of three baths running along one wall. The advantages of this set-up are that it is easy to move the dogs from one area of the salon to another and blasters can be shared between the baths and the grooming tables. Disadvantages are that the mess is not contained within one room and it is noisy for the groomers finishing their dogs when others are blasting and drying their dogs.

The bathing area Some people like to have a completely separate room for bathing where the dogs can be bathed and blasted away from the groomers who are finishing the dogs. This makes for a more peaceful and less messy trimming area and contains all the mess in one space which can be cleared up more easily at the end of the day.

Another consideration should be how you are going to get the dogs in and out of the bath, especially if you are working alone and are planning to groom large dogs. I have seen several solutions to this problem but, again, this very much depends on the space you have available. If you have space you could erect a series of ramps leading to tables at varying heights in order for the dogs to enter the bath. You then have the advantage of work stations at various heights for working on various sized dogs, and it also will enable you to get the dogs from the floor, into the bath and out again with no lifting involved whatsoever. It’s an excellent system in my opinion, although not everybody is lucky enough to have that much space to work with. Another alternative to minimise the lifting of large dogs is to have a hydraulic table on wheels, so the table can be wheeled to the bath and the dog guided in.

problems. I cannot stress enough the importance of this. Recently there have been several sad cases where dogs have died through the misuse of this sort of equipment. It has to be said that often the accidents are caused by the use of home-made botched cabinets or stand dryers directed into crates.

Always remember that any piece of equipment can be dangerous if it used incorrectly. However, I am a great supporter of drying cabinets – in my opinion they are much less stressful for older or infirm dogs and a lot of dogs simply love going in them. They are warm, thermostatically controlled, safe and stress-free when used correctly.

However, if you have a dog which doesn’t like the cabinet, you should obviously remove it immediately and find another method of drying which the dog does not find stressful.

Flooring Ideally you should opt for flooring which is both attractive, non-slip and easy to clean. Obviously, what you ultimately choose will depend on the budget you have available. It is a good idea to have your floor covering fitted so it lifts slightly up the wall round the sides for ease of cleaning. Alternatively, if you are on a tighter budget, you could go for a non-slip floor paint. If you opt for ceramic tiles, remember to bear in mind that they will be hard on your feet, unforgiving should you drop your scissors and probably quite slippery when wet. Special mats can be purchased to put under your grooming table which are cushioned and comfortable to stand on, which will partially overcome this problem.

I have seen some grooming

salons with carpet in the grooming area, which is obviously a totally unsuitable floor covering for a grooming salon. It will harbour parasites, be impossible to clean properly, and will without doubt smell if any male Westies decide they need to go through their marking routine, as they undoubtedly will!

Electrical sockets Consideration should be given as to where electrical sockets should be placed in order to minimise trailing wires for the safety of dogs and groomers. You should also take advice from a qualified electrician as to whether you are going to have individual safety sockets or a trip switch system to avoid any accidents or fire risks.

Sockets should not be placed at a low level, where a dog may urinate on them with a risk of electrocuting themselves.

You also need to consider that by law, your electrical sockets must be a minimum distance from your baths.

Drying cabinets If you have decided to invest in a cabinet dryer, this should be in direct view of the groomers at all times in order that the dogs can be observed for any heat stress or

image courtesy of www.hamiltonstudios.com

Total Grooming Magazine | 29

Security It is most important to consider the safety and security of the dogs when designing your salon. A double door system is ideal, so one door has to be opened and closed before the dog is released through the outer door in order to avoid any escapees!

Also, all dogs should be double-leaded with a slip lead and their own collar and lead when taken for comfort breaks in order to minimise the chance of the dog escaping. An enclosed exercise area is obviously the ideal solution, but you must make sure it is regularly cleaned and disinfected in order to avoid cross infection between dogs.

Crating You need to consider where you are going to keep the dogs when they are waiting to be collected. Again, there are several options to consider. You could choose individual wire crates in a holding area, a bank of crates up the wall, or larger kennels or runs for the dogs to wait in. All this will depend on the budget and the amount of space you have.

In our salon, we currently use individual wire crates and these are contained behind a half height partition separating the holding area from the grooming salon, giving the dogs some peace and quiet, but so they are still visible to the groomers. We have a window and door (with a half height door in front of it for security) adjacent to this area, so there is adequate ventilation for the dogs and it can be maintained at a comfortable temperature. If you do not have adequate ventilation in your salon, you will have to consider installing air conditioning for the comfort of the groomers and the dogs.

Some groomers prefer to have a non-crating policy, and this is fine if you work on a one-in, one-out system so dogs are never waiting around for their owners, but it is my opinion that dogs should never be left loose to wander together. I fully understand that a lot of owners do not like their dogs being put in a crate, 30 | Total Grooming Magazine

but as any professional working with dogs will know, most dogs are more than happy to sit in a crate for a short time awaiting collection. The groomers do not then have the danger and distraction of loose dogs wandering around the salon, and the dogs can relax and go to sleep. It only takes a few seconds for a groomer to be distracted away from the dog they are working on for an accident to happen.

Lighting It is vital to have adequate lighting in your grooming salon, especially when you are working on dark coloured dogs.

Good natural light is ideal, but not feasible in every situation. Make sure you do not underestimate the amount of lighting you will need. We have fluorescent tubes in our salon and find this type of lighting is a very good, economical option.

Tables What sort of table should you choose?

First and foremost you need to consider your health and you need to avoid lifting heavy dogs as much as possible.

It is very tempting when you are starting your business and are strapped for cash to economise on the type of table you choose – you must remember, however, that to economise on your choice of table is a false economy. If you do not have an electric or hydraulic table and have to lift heavy dogs on and off the table all the time, you will almost definitely eventually injure your back, possibly involving you having to take time off work, losing income and possibly resulting in the closure of your business. You are also putting the dogs at risk – you could drop the dog or lift it incorrectly, resulting in an injury.

NEVER allow a dog to jump from a height off a table – it is surprising how easily a dog can severely injure itself if it lands awkwardly.

Design

Libero ‘Deluxe’ Electric Table from Simpsons

There are several other considerations to be taken into account when designing your salon, for example: ease of cleaning; multi-purpose equipment for space saving such as tables with crates underneath, storage under your bath for shampoos etc and dual purposes dryers/blasters (although these do have their disadvantages).

Your own health and the safety of the dogs should be paramount.

Accidents in the salon can almost always be avoided with a little planning, thought and consideration.

There is an awful lot to consider when you are planning the layout and design of your grooming salon and one of the first things you should do is draw a scaled plan of the space you have available and work out exactly where all your equipment can go. This is a very good starting point, as when you look at an empty space it always looks a lot bigger than it actually is, so you need to work on accurate measurements to be realistic.

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Total Grooming Magazine | 31

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Dog hay fever

coping with seasonal allergies

Dogs are just as susceptible to hay fever as humans, but it can be difficult to recognise the signs of a seasonal dog allergy. John Howie of Lintbells explains the symptoms to look out for and some effective ways to treat them…

D

oes your dog scratch and bite his body? Has he started to lick his paws? Does he rub his face on the floor or furniture?

All are classic symptoms of hay fever or another seasonal allergy. Dogs can inhale pollen granules in exactly the same way as we do, but the resulting responses are different. While we tend to react with a runny nose, watery eyes and sneezing, a dog allergy will generally show on his skin. This is because the histamines released by the body in response to pollen in animals are mostly released in the skin rather than the nose and eyes.

It’s not just by inhaling pollen that a dog can suffer hay fever either. Direct contact with the skin can also trigger these responses so frolicking in a grassy meadow this summer could leave your pet with a persistent itch.

Dog hay fever symptoms If your dog is suffering from dog skin allergies like hay fever he is likely to scratch and bite his body, possibly to the extent that he will pull some of his coat out. He may also lick his paws, shake his head and rub his face on the floor or furniture. He is likely to be more sensitive to being touched and generally miserable in his demeanor.

In more severe cases, the skin may well appear pink, red or inflamed, and if they have scratched so much that they have broken the surface of the skin, the scratch may well have become infected.

32 | Total Grooming Magazine

If your dog is sensitive to seasonal allergies, it is likely that they will start showing these symptoms from April onwards as dogs are particularly sensitive to tree pollen, which is present in the air much earlier than grass pollen.

In order to prevent these irritating symptoms it is worth ensuring that your dog’s natural skin defences are working as well as they possibly can.

Soothing your dog’s skin Omega 6 and 3 oils increase the essential fatty acids in a dog’s diet to improve their skin health. One way you can ensure the correct balance of these oils is by adding Yumega Plus to your dog’s diet. A healthy balance of these oils should help to calm sensitivity and irritation in the skin, and will make it more difficult for the pollen to penetrate the skin, which should discourage scratching. Yumega Plus contains golden flax, starflower and fresh salmon oil plus high levels of vitamin E making it perfect for dogs with itchy and sensitive skin.

Other things that you should try include bathing your dog with a shampoo designed to reduce skin problems, although not so frequently that it dries out the skin or you could lose those vital oils in their coat. It’s also very important to keep up to date with flea control and brushing the coat to ensure there is no dirt and debris or trapped pollen in matted hair. At

peak hay fever times ensure you brush the coat to remove seeds from his coat and wipe him down with a damp towel after his walk to get rid of the pollen. Regularly washing your dog’s grooming brushes and bedding can help too.

If you suspect your dog’s scratching has lead to a skin infection, you should visit your vet as soon as possible to ensure the infection does not spread further.

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Top tips for reducing dog hay fever • Add Yumega Plus to your pet’s diet to add essential fatty acids that may be lacking in their diet. Doing this will mean pollen and other allergens will find it more difficult to get into the skin and will calm sensitive and itchy skin.

• Consider bathing your dog with a shampoo designed to sooth irritated skin.

• Keep up to date on flea control.

Flea allergies can cause skin eruptions and should be treated immediately.

• Brush the coat daily and carefully comb or cut out matted hair which can hold dirt and debris which can cause bacterial dermatitis.

• Wipe your dog with a damp towel after they’ve been out in the grass.

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Total Grooming Magazine | 33

Teddy Bear Trim

made easy

The teddy bear trim gives a finish that is popular with many pet owners and suitable for many breeds. Here, groomer Dana Grant of Pucci Pet Pamperers offers a step-by-step guide of how to achieve this adorable look

D

Front leg before trimming

Front leg after trimming the shape in

og grooming is a bit like baking a cake (bear with me here); give five people the same ingredients and the same equipment – perhaps even the same recipe and chances are you’ll get five very different looking and tasting cakes!

And the same can be said for doing some of the very straight forward trims like the so-called teddy bear trim.

In some salons this might be called a “puppy cut” which is very different to me than a teddy. A puppy cut to me is more like a puppy’s first trim – where the coat is left untrimmed but the face, feet and sanitary tidy are done and it’s more to introduce the puppy in to grooming rather than a technical trim.

The basics

Trimming in the angles in the hind leg with blending scissors

Rear leg after shaping

34 | Total Grooming Magazine

A teddy bear trim is more of a cute, rounded all-over trim that leaves the look that the hair is the same length all over the dog’s body. It should be plush, fluffy and neat, yet easy to maintain; it should inspire a puppy squashing moment or two. As simple as it sounds, this is often a trim that people want to learn because it can be applied to so many breeds of dogs (and designer crosses).

It does not hugely matter which breed of dog this trim is applied to – what matters more is the coat type and texture. I once had a man with a Border terrier x Yorkshire terrier with a wiry coat ask for a teddy on it – and he was, of course, disappointed that I couldn’t achieve the cute fluffy look he

was expecting, despite my telling him it wouldn’t really work. For this article I’ve used a Lhasa apso called Cookie, whose coat has a semi harsh texture with a decent amount of volume. The owners prefer her in a shorter trim for easy at-home grooming and she comes in about once every six weeks.

Getting started I tend to do my teddy bear trims as a cross of somewhere between Westie, poodle, and bichon styles – using elements from each to get the look that I want. In my opinion, a good trim starts with the best preparation.

Without a good wash and blow dry resulting in a squeaky clean coat that is neither too heavy, nor too coarse, it is more difficult to get a good scissored finish.

If the coat is a bit heavy and “claggy” with a bit of dander or scurf, avoid using conditioners. Instead start with

Cookie looking rather scruffy – Before styling the head

Gathering hair on top of head to trim with thinning scissors…

a good clarifying shampoo, like K9 Competition Strip Off, followed by the K9 Competition Aloe shampoo. If I did not have that to hand, I would instead use any good shampoo without conditioners in it, and follow up with a dash of diluted white vinegar to strip out any residual shampoo. On this type of coat I would generally prefer to spray something like Kelco DeMat Spray or K9 Competition Nano Mist after blasting and before fluff drying.

comb it up for scissoring.

I prefer to hand dry as much as possible when doing a clip-andscissored teddy. The reason for this is simply because passive drying does not stretch and straighten the coat sufficiently for a good finish. If there is a kink in the coat, it makes it harder to scissor straight. However if a kink is desired as a finish, it can be re-created after the trim is complete by spritzing with a mist of water.

Passive drying does not stretch and straighten the coat sufficiently for a good finish If the coat is a bit dry or too coarse, or in fact a bit on the tuggy side, perhaps then use a very light conditioner on it – but rinse out really well so the coat is not left overly heavy feeling as it can be rather difficult to get the scissor finish neat if the coat is immediately falling when trying to

If you are not an expert on head-totoe scissoring, it is faster and easier to do much of the work with clippers and either long blades or comb attachments.

My favourite blade for most teddy trims is a 3-¾ which leaves about 13mm of plush hair left on the body. Other blades can be used depending on the dog’s coat

Thinning done, now to scissor the jaw line round

…repeating for each side of face

type, conformation, and how long the owners wish to leave the hair between trims. Starting at the occiput, clip down to the top of the tail, and do the whole of the body similar to a poodle lamb trim. Avoid leaving a “skirt” but if the dog is particularly leggy, perhaps leave a slightly longer bit of hair at the chest to just take up some of the space between the chest and the ground. On most dogs this isn’t necessary and in fact just removing it helps the at-home brushing process.

Legs and feet Once the body work is done, the legs can then be scissored in to columns.

Starting first with nails trimmed short, the pads can be clipped with a small trimmer like an Arco or Speed Feed blade set to short – if you hold the foot so that overhanging hair is part of the pad trim, you will end up with a slightly bevelled foot which is desirable.

It can be scissored once the foot is back down to complete that bevelled look and just tidy the strays that were

Jaw line neater now!

Total Grooming Magazine | 35

Flicking the hair up, then using chunkers or thinning scissors to create a round shape

Once the hair falls back to a natural state, the shape is still round. Clear the corners of the eyes and trim in the visor

missed with the trimmer. The legs ought to be trimmed so that they are in balance with the blade work. If you have used a shorter blade on the body, and providing the natural shape of the dog isn’t too chunky, you can get away with a much shorter trim on the leg.

than as part of the chest. When doing the clipper work, you can clip to clean the front of the shoulder and then scissor down to define the point of the shoulder. On the hind legs, I like to define the angulation with either a curved scissor or even a blending shear

On the hind legs, I like to define the angulation with either a curved scissor or even a blending shear However, I find that some dogs are so chunky that even with a 7F blade on the body that I’d need to still leave the legs fairly full just to avoid a “potato with toothpicks” look.

For the front legs I prefer to trim so they are well under the dog, rather

and then tidy up with ordinary straight shears.

The head piece on a Lhasa apso or shih tzu teddy can be done cheeky and round – and this is where Westie trimming comes in to play.

Start by de-bulking the head. Gather

hair on top of the head between your fingers and trim excess length with thinning scissors, which gives a softer look. I do the same at the cheeks.

Next, trim the jaw line round, keeping the area around the muzzle short and as part of the curve which then continues up behind the ear and back of the head. The under jaw should be combed and trimmed quite short so when viewing from all sides there are no straggling hairs.

Once the basic shape is in, and bulk removed, I comb the cheeks in an upward direction and use thinning scissors to remove the stragglers, and also keep scissoring round with a chrysanthemum shape in mind.

The ears can be shaped and put in to whatever length is desired, but I prefer shorter bobbed ears or, on some dogs, a completely shaved ear.

Cookie all styled up and waiting to go home!

The rounded shape continues from the side view

36 | Total Grooming Magazine

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Total Grooming Magazine | 37

How to make a start on a career in grooming The basic prerequisites for a career in grooming are a genuine interest in dogs and a bit of flair for style. But, as with any business, there are many more things that you’ll need to consider. Joanne Angus, a director of Look North Grooming and Training Centre and a founder member of Groom Team England, explains…

G

rooming has progressed in leaps and bounds over the last 20 years with the onset of recognised training schools, qualifications and new, more advanced time saving equipment. Training is a necessity if you are to achieve the correct styling outcome. Your choice of training school should be thought about and researched carefully to be sure that you choose the one that suits you and your requirements the best. Look at the tutor’s grooming experience and make sure that they have the appropriate teaching qualifications.

A good groomer is not necessarily a good teacher and a good teacher is not necessarily a good groomer! It takes years to master a practical skill so it is important to continue with your grooming as soon as the training

Useful links You’ll find more information on training, qualifications, and competitions at the following websites: www.looknorth-groomingtraining. co.uk www.prettypawsgrooming.co.uk www.cityandguilds.com www.groomteamengland.co.uk www.premiergroom.co.uk www.petcare.org.uk

38 | Total Grooming Magazine

LCGI awards

has finished. A lot of your grooming skills will only come with time and experience such as knowing exactly how much hair to trim off, confident handling of the dogs and interpreting the owner’s instructions. Turn to page 16 for more on training.

The right equipment for the job Having the correct tools to suit both you and the job is also vital. Tables, driers and dematting tools are invaluable to make the work easier and more time effective. Redcape suppliers have a huge range of tools and equipment from baths and

shampoos to brushes, combs, scissors and clippers. Spend your money wisely; buying quality equipment and having it serviced regularly is the best way to ensure that it will last for years.

Once you have the basic training you can continue to build your knowledge by attending seminars and demonstrations and getting a good insight into breeds by visiting championship shows. You will never stop learning throughout your career as a groomer due to continuously changing styles and techniques. Groom Team England organise at least two seminars per year where the audience can participate and pick the brains of

Groom Team at the World Championship

the highest calibre of groomers. These events are publicised in the dog press and on their web site.

Qualifications Once you feel confident you can begin on your qualification route.

City & Guilds have three grooming qualifications – Level 2 Certificate for dog groomers’ assistants, Level 3 Certificate in Introductory dog grooming and Level 3 Diploma for dog grooming professionals. There is also a higher qualification available through the Pet Care Trust – the Higher Diploma. On completion of this you may become a member of the Guild of Master Groomers. Details of all the qualifications can be found on the Pet Care Trust website. After many years experience and attaining your qualifications you can apply for the Licentiateship of the City & Guilds of London Institute directly through City & Guilds and this allows you to use the letters LCGI after your name.

Showcasing talent Competition work is the ultimate goal as achieving placings and awards are a

Groom Team demo

real pat on the back for you, and your clients will love them too.

Competing regularly in this country can now lead to a place on Groom Team England as the team members are selected from the most consistent winners over a two year period to compete and represent their country in the World Team Championships. The next event will take place in Barcelona

in September 2013.

Premier Groom on August 12, 2012 at The Kennel Club Buildings, Stoneleigh Park is now well established on the grooming calendar and is coorganised by Groom Team England and Redcape. It’s a great opportunity to see the seminars and demonstrations of the highest level of grooming in the country.

Total Grooming Magazine | 39

A leading force in pet care

T

he voice of the pet specialist sector for the past 50 years, the PCTA and its predecessor bodies have been a leading force in the pet industry. Businesses displaying our logo offer the petowning public a hallmark of quality: our members agree to abide by a sector-specific charter to demonstrate good practice, high standards of professionalism, customer service and animal welfare.

There are around 1,500 PCTA members from small, sole trader enterprises right up to many of the largest players in the industry. Our members include pet shops, groomers, kennels, catteries, manufacturers, and wholesalers and our professional services category – colleges, publishers, dog walkers and pet sitters – is ever expanding, reflecting the increasing diversity of the sector.

40 | Total Grooming Magazine

The Pet Care Trade Association is the only membership body dedicated to the entire pet specialist sector in the UK. In our first issue we’ve asked them to tell us the latest on one of their cornerstone events – the British Dog Grooming Championship…

The British Dog Groomers’ Association (BDGA) and British Kennel & Cattery Association are both parts of the PCTA, representing and supporting members specific to those sectors.

level, from juniors and students right up to advanced. Competitors have the chance to show off their skills to our array of prestigious judges, and to pit themselves against their peers.

2012 British Dog Grooming Championship

New for 2012

The centrepiece of the BDGA calendar is the British Dog Grooming Championship, at which groomers compete for the prestigious title of ‘Groomer of the Year’. It’s a great event for industry professionals with seminars, masterclasses and demonstrations taking place as well as the competition itself.

This year’s event is the 32nd annual championship and will take place on Sunday October 28 at the Kennel Club Building, Stoneleigh Park in Warwickshire. The championship is open to groomers, whatever their

For the first time in the history of the competition, a suite of winner’s logos will be granted to those reaching the top in the competition using a ‘Proud to British’ theme in the light of the Olympics and the Royal Diamond Jubilee. Class winners, group winners, the Groomer of the Year and the runner up will be able to use these on marketing materials, websites and adverts.

Also new for 2012 is a ‘Team Student’ event – open to students from colleges and satellite centres who have studied in the last 12 months and have entered the Student and Newcomer category.

The winning team will win the BDGA Memorial Award for a year, as well as a trophy for the training centre and certificates for all members of the team who are placed first, second or third.

Janet Nunn, Chief Executive of the BDGA and PCTA said: “We’re delighted to provide the opportunity for colleges and satellites to demonstrate the efforts of their students and to celebrate the next generation of groomers, at what will be another fantastic event. The British Dog Grooming Championship showcases the best of British grooming.”

Seminars and Trade Show Visitors and competitors will have the opportunity to further their own professional development through a range of seminars and workshops

that will be hosted in the Kennel Club Building’s bespoke seminar room.

Those with level 3 qualifications will be able to gain Continuing Professional Development (CPD) points, and anyone who attends will receive a certificate proving to customers their commitment to advancing their knowledge and skills.

A trade show will take place alongside the excitement of the competition.

It offers visitors and competitors the chance to browse a range of products and services specifically catering to the grooming market.

Businesses who are interested in promoting their products and services to a captive audience of top groomers should contact the PCTA on 01234 273933.

Find out more by visiting www.petcare.org.uk

The 2012 British Dog Grooming Championship judges Joanne Botwood LCGI: Handstrip & Clipped Gundogs; Pot Pourri Scissor Bill Browne-Cole: Handstrip & Clipped (other than Gundog); Purebred Scissor Corina Verschuren: Clipped Terriers & Schnauzers; Poodle Scissor Lee Lister: Junior Group – Young Kennel Club qualifier

Total Grooming Magazine | 41

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If you would like to contribute to future issues of Total Grooming Magazine please contact : Amy Woodland editor@totalgroomingmagazine.co.uk If you would like to subscribe to the magazine or have an interest in advertising then please contact : Mike Smith mike@cimltd.co.uk 01795 509110

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