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Turkey buying guide besT vinegars The TiFF survival guide ToronTo beer Week kosher Pickle 101
michael Potters of harvest restaurant
Plus! Food Books + Cheap Wines + seCond harvest + UrBan Gardens
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from the editor
While this issue—our “harvest issue”— is pretty much dedicated to great fall destinations outside of Toronto, let’s not forget the many fantastic opportunities we have to enjoy Ontario’s bounty right in the heart of the city. Say, at the many resolutely local restaurants and bars, or the many farmers’ markets and retailers. Indeed, the restaurants you read about regularly in CityBites—the ones that focus on fresh, local, sustainable and all those good things—are programming a variety of special “harvest” dinners and events this fall. I encourage you all to check their websites and other listings, and get out there as much as you can. The Gladstone’s Harvest Wednesday events are one such
contents
opportunity, and I could name many more. But space on paper is expensive. Please visit our Facebook page and join the conversation—we’re always telling people where to go!
Harvest 2010
Volume 6, Issue 4
Dick Snyder, Editor • dick@citybites.ca
Features
masthead Editor Dick snyder/dick@citybites.ca Art Direction craig sinclair/craigdesign@hurontel.on.ca Associate Editor signe Langford Wine Editor John szabo Director of Vinous Affairs Zoltan szabo Contributors stephen Beaumont, Greg clow, sean Deasy, konrad Ejbich, Arlene hazzan Green, stephen temkin, rebecca Leheup, Angela Aiello, Jamie Drummond,
16
Eating TIFF top spots for a good bite and a celebrity sighting. Plus: secrets from the doorman!
18
The Harvest Tour 2010 We’ve asked our culinary experts for their out-of-toronto picks for eating, drinking and all the other good stuff.
Regular Bites 5
NewsBites Delicious dish on toronto’s food scene.
12
Pantry Vinegars that’ll make you say “yeah!”
6
Crumbs hot spots, new spots and dead spots. Plus: Fall events.
13
7
Just Opened three little gems that are serving the greater good.
Stuff A perfect roasting pan, wine decanter as performance art... and more!
14
Books read ’em and eat!
8
The Urban Farmer New column! Why you should get to plantin’!
15
Fresh the fresh and local turkey shopping guide.
9
The Gourmudgeon the right way to do a pickle.
23
9
Good Deeds talking about second harvest.
Libations Let’s welcome toronto Beer Week, says Stephen Beaumont.
24 The Ej
10
Foreign Correspondents New column! three world visions of the humble grilled cheese.
25
Szabo on Wine Go south, says John Szabo, for great wine deals.
11
Reality Check New column! how smart is kD smart?
26
One Last Bite on the road with second harvest.
Anita stewart, michelle kalman, krysta oben, scott Vivian, patricia noonan, kathy Guidi Photography stephen Elphick, Jeff coulson, signe Langford Publisher paul Alsop/paulalsop@idmg.ca
photo: ©istockphoto.com/contour99
Managing Director for IDMG Donald G. house Account Executive Wendy Lyall Gardner/ wendy@citybites.ca
Subscriptions are $20 per year. Email info@citybites.ca or visit citybites.ca. city Bites media inc., 24 Dalhousie st. suite 200, toronto, on, m5B 2A5, 647-827-1705.
www.citybites.ca
the LcBo, says Konrad Ejbich, has it in the bag.
City Bites is published six times a year by City Bites media, a division of iDmG inc. Advertising inquiries
sales@citybites.ca
Cover: Michael Potters of Harvest Restaurant in Prince Edward Country. Photo by Stephen Elphick [stevenelphick.com]. Harvest 2010
3
CanyonCreekChophouse.com
LOCAL HARVEST
A SEASONAL MENU SHOWCASING ONTARIO’S BEST LOCALLY GROWN INGREDIENTS
SEPT 14 – OCT 31
"JSQPSU t #VSMJOHUPO t %PXOUPXO 5PSPOUP t &UPCJDPLF t /JBHBSB 'BMMT t 4DBSCPSPVHI t 7BVHIBO
the starters So long, Hugo
photo: Signe Langford
By Signe Langford
When I met Hugo Weidelich of Hugo’s Meat and Deli earlier this year, he was 75 and robust. And as I piled jars and tins onto his counter, he told me the story behind each photo— family and dignitaries, all with Hugo—that hung on the wall above. Hugo’s shop occupied one end of an unremarkable greyish strip mall in west Toronto. The interior was utilitarian and a bit sparse in spots, but there were treasures inside: Hugo’s own canned patés, goulashes, duck fat, jars of blue loostrife honey from his own bees, beef from his own cattle, and honest-to-goodness wild turkeys. He kept 1,000 hives on his farm north of the city, which is where he also kept a little Cessna that he piloted to and from his beloved hunting trips in the bush. When I tried to pay, he refused, the usual tug o’ war ensued, but in the end he won with the words that made me put my money away: “I like the look of you.” Ah ha, I thought I had noticed a twinkle in his eyes! Hugo died in July. He was killed in a car wreck on Highway 7 as he headed back from a hunting trip. He wasn’t a famous chef or celebrity foodie, just a quiet, old German fellow who understood that good food is real, slow, natural and local— before these were all buzzwords. He was one of our unsung culinary Hugo’s shop is now up for rent. It’s doubtful the new heroes, and I will miss him. occupants will sell jars of goose fat.
...events... sunday sept. 12 FeAsT oF FIeLds Feast of Fields celebrates organics in Southern Ontario with celebrity chefs, vintners, brewers and organic farmers. There’s an organic farmers’ market and a children’s organic garden. $100, includes cookbook. 1 - 5 p.m., Cold Creek Conservation Area, 14125 11th Concession, Nobleton. 905-859-3609, feastoffields.org
tuesday sept. 21 & Wednesday sept. 22 dIRoNA GALA dINNeRs The Distinguished Restaurants of North America invites the public to attend two gala dinners. Tues., Sept. 21: A seven course Italian-Mediterranean dinner by Chef Pino Posteraro of Vancouver’s Cioppino Restaurant and Enoteca. Wed., Sept. 22: a kaiseki dinner created by Iron Chef Japan 2002 Kimio Nonaga of Yukari-Nihonbashi in Tokyo, supported by Chef Ryo Ozawa of Edo. $300. Fairmont Royal York. Call John Arena at 905-990-1696.
Wednesday sept. 22 A NIGHT AT THe CAPIToL THeATRe Dessert, drinks, live entertainment and a silent auction in support of Holland Bloorview Kids Rehabilitation Hospital Foundation. Food courtesy of area restaurants, including Centro and Jedd’s Patisserie. $25; available at shops and restaurants in the Uptown Yonge BIA, or at the door. 8 - 10 p.m. Capitol Theatre, 2492 Yonge St.
Friday sept. 24
Tids and bits The Fourth Annual Picnic at the Brick Works brings a celebration of a local sustainable harvest to the downtown. Sunday, Oct. 3, from noon to 4 p.m., at Evergreen Brick Works, 550 Bayview Ave. Tickets: $110 and $120. 416-596-1495 ext. 388, picnic@evergreen.ca, ebw.evergreen.ca.
Feels like it had been a long time coming: Barrio Lounge on Queen East has finally called it quits after seven years. Owner Kevin Noonan cites rising food, labour and rent costs. Fans of Chef Michael Frank can head to Victor Restaurant & Bar, where he’s now sous. 30 Mercer St., 416-883-3431.
Reality food TV comes to Toronto. Three exhibitionist couples, three dinner parties, two judges… oh, and apparently an audience, hungry for all the awkwardness, ersatz intimacy, and snarky confessions these six hopefuls can muster. All while Food Network Chef Corbin Tomaszeski and event planner extraordinaire
souTH WesT oF FRANCe WINe TAsTING Discover the best of France’s South West region. $20; all proceeds go to a charity TBD. 6 – 9 p.m. The Carlu, 444 Yonge St. Register at southwestwinetasting.com.
Wednesday Oct 6 Good GARdeNs ANd Food seCuRITy Katie Smith Milway leads an interactive discussion on how the movement to grow good gardens can foster food security around the world, with discussion around her new children’s book The Good Garden: How One
Anthea Turnericon supply ongoing—and, we assume, witty— critiques. Dinner Party Wars, Wednesdays at 9 p.m. on The Food Network.
Family Went from Hunger to Having Enough. $19.95 plus GST, includes 1 seat for an adult, 1 seat for a child aged seven and up and 1 signed book. 5 - 6:15 p.m., Fleck Atrium (ground floor), Rotman School of Management, U of Toronto. 105 St. George Street. Register at rotman.utoronto.ca/events.
Harvest 2010
5
crumbs it took a bit longer than expected due to liquor license delays
starting with coffee and italian buns in the morning, through
and other issues, but nYC celeb chef Scott Conant finally got
to wine, tapas and pasta for lunch and dinner
the toronto location of Scarpetta (550 Wellington St. W., 416-601-3590) opened in the Thompson Hotel at the end of July, and from all accounts, it was worth the wait
...
Superior Restaurant (253 Yonge St., 416-214-0416) has closed
after 15 years, but a message on its website promises “a new concept from the superior family in Winter 2011.”
News you must eat ...
Cosimo Mammoliti continues the
expansion of his mini-empire, with the summer opening of La Bettola di Terroni (106 Victoria St., 416-955-0258, terroni.ca)
Just in time for tiFF, two
alongside his Osteria Ciceri e Tria, and the impending unveiling
Oliver & Bonacini owned
of Bar Centrale di Terroni (1095 Yonge St.), which will coincide with the closure of the midtown location of Terroni (1 Balmoral Ave.,
restaurants have opened in the new Bell Lightbox: casual fresh
416-925-4020)
market café and take-out spot O&B Canteen on street level,
brownesbistro.com)
...
A year after the original Kensington
location shut down, a new version of Goed Eten (188 Ossington Ave.,
oliverbonacini.com)
goedeten.ca) is now open, serving pastries, sandwiches, soup and
Greg & Liz Bolton have
waffles through the day, and drunken hipster favourites like fries
closed their popular gourmet
and poutine at night
...
Nitya (1433 Gerrard St. E., 416-469-1500,
nityarestaurant.com) is a new restaurant from Hubert D’Mello
grocery and take-out spot, Pantry, in order to spend more
of Udupi Palace, featuring cuisine from various regions of india
...
time with their young kids, and the location has been taken over
Mark Ali of The Village Butcher in Etobicoke has opened an
organic and gluten-free all-day breakfast joint around the corner
by Black Skirt (974 College St., blackskirtrestaurant.com), a
the lease for that Yonge & Balmoral address,
nearby Brownes Bistro (4 Woodlawn Ave. E., 416-800-5548,
second floor (330 King St. W.,
...
...
meanwhile, is reportedly being taken over by the owners of
and more upscale Luma on the
from his shop, and it’s fittingly called Around The Corner (132 6th St., O&B Canteen
416-503-9555)
sicilian & Calabrese restaurant
...
Barrio Lounge (896 Queen St. E.) was one of the
first decent spots to eat in leslieville when it opened in 2003, but it
that was previously found at 3 Charles st. E. for the few months between the first and second incarnations of Wish
...
long-delayed iberian tapas
seems that it couldn’t keep up with the numerous newcomers, and is now closed for good
...
portuguese sports bar Palop has got new
joint Salt Wine Bar (225 Ossington Ave., 416-533-7258) is now open
owners, a new look and a new chef—Guy Rawlings (ex-Cowbell)—
Cinquecento Trattoria (109 Atlantic Ave., 416-539-9390), a sibling
and has been relaunched as Brockton General (1321 Dundas St. W.,
...
to Café Cinquecento, is new in liberty Village, as is laid-back lounge and tapas bar Locus 144 (144-171 East Liberty St.,)
...
the Roncey
647-342-6104, facebook.com/brocktongeneral)
...
neighbourhood
bistro Cafe Leopold (672 St Clair Ave. W.) has closed after a very
...
Village location of Buddha Dog (163 Roncesvalles Ave., buddhafoodha.
short run at Christie and st. Clair
com) served their last fancy little hot dog on June 30th, but they’ll still
Thor Espresso Bar (35 Bathurst St., thorespressobar.com) features
be grilling at the Brick Works Farmers Market on saturdays, as well as
toronto’s first slayer Espresso machine (no, not that slayer, it’s
at the original location in picton
...
Coffee guru Ezra Braves is using
the little portugal location of his café Ezra’s Pound (913 Dundas St. W., 647-346-8448, ezraspound.com) as the home base for his new coffee roasting and barista school, The Espresso Institute of North America
...
Quanto Basta (1112 Yonge Street, 416-962-3141), a new enoteca from Capocaccia owner Salvatore Mela, is offering all-day service Kristapsons-CityBites-3store1.pdf
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CM
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CMY
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...
CityBites
1
17:08:10
1:05 pm
new indie coffee shop
the name of new-fangled unit from seattle—but wouldn’t an espresso machine that played “Angel of Death” when you pulled a shot be totally fucking awesome?!?) GREG CLOW is the co-publisher, news editor, beer writer and head dishwasher at Taste T.O. (tasteto.com), a website that reports on anything and everything to do with food and drink in Toronto.
photo: Allison Woo
...
Just Opened
By Signe Langford
The Avro The Avro Arrow was a Canadian fighter jet, well ahead of its time in speed and altitude capabilities, built in the late 1950s. Canadian engineers had put the Americans to shame and we were about to make history when, right out of the blue, Diefenbaker scrapped the project. All documents, plans and planes destroyed. That’s the kind of shit that calls for a stiff shot. And why would first-time bar owner Rachel Conduit name her 30-seat hipster watering whole after a doomed aeroplane? Because her granddad was one of the engineers. “He calibrated the mach settings.” Sounds very cool. Cool as cheep bar shots, good beer and live music in Leslieville. 750 Queen St., E., 416-466-3233
Louis Anagnostakos looked across the street from his Turtle Island recycling business and saw opportunity in the beautiful old Dominion Bank building. He also looked around and saw a multitude of blue-collar folk, slogging it out and working up an appetite at his own scrap yard and the municipal plants on Cherry and Commissioners. For now there’ll be simple breakfast and lunch fare: beer, burgers, souvlaki and authentic three-meat gyros. I mean a working man—or woman—can only down so much T & T dim sum, am I right?
From the town of Lviv, in Ukraine, Olenka Bazowski is positively giddy about chocolate and baked things. She and husband Ray Bazowski—a Saskatchewan farm boy—have been blazing a tasty trail in the still rougharound-the-edges neighbourhood of New Toronto, aka Lakeshore Village. It’s a neighbourhood in transition, and what better way to cope with all that change than with brilliantly creative, small-batch, whole-cream ice cream, along with quirky torts, tarts, cakes and truffles? Says Olenka: “My grandfather lived with us, and baking and home made chocolates were a part of everyday life. I still use his recipes here in the shop.”
275 Cherry St., 416-461-5111
2790 Lakeshore Blvd. W., 416-521-7444
Cherry Beach Restaurant photos: Jeff Coulson and signe langford
Sweet Olenka’s
Turn on your Kitchen with Le Creuset Cassis EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR EVERDAY OR SPECIAL OCCASION MEAL PREPARATION AND GIFT GIVING
416.461.5211 501 Danforth Avenue www.thecooksplace.com
SIGN UP FOR OUR QUARTERLY NEWSLETTER AT INFO@THECOOKSPLACE.COM TO RECEIVE TIPS, RECIPES, EVENTS AND SALES DETAILS.
Harvest 2010
7
THE URBAN FARMER
By Arlene Hazzan Green
Grow your own If you had to be completely self-sustaining, could you do it? Goodbye mod-cons, hello hunting and gathering. You’d have to find, collect and purify water and learn to recognize what was edible and what could potentially kill. As a self-sustaining survivalist, you’d have to focus on the absolute basic necessities of life: food, water and shelter. Do you think you could provide at least some of your own food? Are you up for the challenge? It’s actually not that hard, you know… Consider this precarious reality. Only about 3 percent of the North American population is in the business of feeding 100 percent of the rest of us. Compare that with 150 years ago, when 70 to 80 percent of us were involved in agricultural food production. In the time it’s taken us to burn through 3 trillion barrels of oil, we’ve lost our knowledge of the lifecycles of plants and insects,
weather patterns and the phases of the moon. As a culture, we’ve also lost our confidence, with many urbanites suffering from a Black Thumb Complex. Perhaps most damaging of all, we’ve lost the joy of communing with nature—quite possibly without even realizing that it’s gone. Okay, chances are the power isn’t going to go out suddenly or permanently tomorrow, but learning to grow your own organic fruits and vegetables is a very good idea. Not only is it good for you—more plants, less Prozac?— it’s good for the planet. Tending to the life of a plant is surprisingly simple. Give it the basics—food, water, shelter, light—and Mother Nature takes care of the rest. All you have to do is pay attention and assist from time to time. Remember the plant has a life of its own and knows what to do. Arlene Hazzan Green and Marc Green run The Backyard Urban Farm Company and design, install and maintain organic vegetable gardens: 416-450-3899, bufco.ca.
FROM LOCAL FARMS
TO YOUR TABLE We invite you to experience the freshest of Niagara’s bounty, produced locally and prepared by Niagara chefs who embrace the Farm to Table philosophy every day. Each afternoon demonstration features a vineyard walk with Michèle Bosc and discussions with a local food purveyor, ending in a delectable tasting created while you watch and paired with Château des Charmes wines. Our series culminates with the Harvest Feast, as our featured chefs join forces for a grand finale: a winemaker’s style dinner sure to delight your inner foodie. FARM TO TABLE SERIES
HARVEST FEAST
Sunday, June 27 Chefs Anna and Michael Olson
Sunday, September 26 Featuring all Farm to Table Chefs
Sunday, July 18 Chef Roberto Fracchioni, Millcroft Inn & Spa Sunday, August 15 Chef David Watt, Zest 4:30 pm to 6:30 pm $50 pp + taxes & gratuity, for each date
6:30 pm to 10:30 pm $150 pp + taxes & gratuity
PURCHASE THE ENTIRE 3-DATE SERIES PLUS THE HARVEST FEAST FOR $250 PP + TAXES AND GRATUITY Space is limited. To reserve your place call Michèle Bosc at 905.262.4219 ext. 26 or email michele@chateaudescharmes.com
VISIT WWW.CHATEAUDESCHARMES.COM FOR COMPLETE EVENT DETAILS 1025 York Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON 905.262.4219
8
CityBites
The author’s garden in Toronto.
How to get started Think September is too late? Here are a few tips to get you thinking about next spring. + Visit a private or community garden, peak over a neighbour’s fence and see how it’s done. + take a country drive to a local farm like everdale Farm in erin (www.everdale.org) or Farmstart in brampton (www.farmstart.ca). both have exciting fall events and programs. + Don’t be shy. Gardeners love to talk, share their secrets and show off their bounty. + Start small and keep it simple. + Grow herbs like basil, chives and oregano on your windowsill. + Ignite your imagination at the bookstore.
photo: Marc Green
take the lEAp ANd REAp the bounty
The GourmudGeon
By Stephen Temkin
Falling for pickles
photoS: ©iStockphoto.com
here’S how to get yourSelf a real kosher dill One of the joys of harvest time is the opportunity to preserve fresh local produce. I’ve done my thing: tomato sauce, pears in red wine, spiced crabapples and, whenever I’ve come across a batch of unripe tomatoes, my mother’s delicious green tomato relish. But all of this requires time and energy. These days, my canner preserves more dust than food. Yet, as the dog days wane, I still get my mojo juiced for pickles. But I don’t mean canned vinegar pickles—you know, those wedges of zucchini, wax beans or other such things that you don’t really want to eat. I’m referring to the undisputed king of pickles: the kosher dill. Real kosher pickled cucumbers contain no vinegar. Rather, they sour naturally through fermentation in an aromatic brine. The longer they ferment, the softer and sourer they become. Some people prefer lightly soured pickles that still have some freshness and crunch (young dills). Others insist on pickles that can dissolve your teeth (old dills).
Kosher dills are not heat processed (canned) and are therefore stored in the fridge where they keep for up to six months. In the supermarket, fermented kosher dills are refrigerated, as they should be. Nevertheless, some brands contain vinegar, a commercial capitulation to sterility at the expense of authenticity. So-called “kosher-style” pickles found in the condiment aisle also contain vinegar and are heat processed. No selfrespecting pastrami sandwich would dare keep company with the likes of these. The real thing is easily and best achieved at home. Recipes vary, fresh dill and garlic being the two essential aromatic ingredients. The following has worked well for me. When not eating, drinking, or writing about eating and drinking, Stephen Temkin makes fedoras. stemkin@rogers.com
Real KosheR Dills Pickling cucumbers: these range from the teeny gherkin to the full-size deli pickle of about four inches. whatever you use, make sure they are generally similar in size and impeccably fresh. remove any stems and clean thoroughly. Brine: Dissolve one-quarter cup of kosher salt per litre of water. make enough to completely submerge the pickles. Pickling spice: eschew the pre-mixed versions and tinker with your own. i make a mixture of whole allspice, coriander seed, mustard seed, dill seed and black peppercorns. employ a small handful of mixture per litre of brine. Fresh dill: ideally with flower heads. Fresh garlic: peeled, at least two cloves per litre of brine.
MeThoD: use a non-reactive container (ceramic, stainless steel, glass) large enough to hold your pickles with room to spare. place your pickling spice, a healthy nest of fresh dill and the garlic in the bottom. Scatter the pickles on top. pour in enough brine to completely submerge the pickles. use a ceramic plate to hold the pickles well below the surface. cover with a tea towel. the best ambient temperature for fermentation is around 23°c. if the room is too cold, the fermentation may not take. too warm and it may go wonky. after a day or two, you should notice bubbles appearing on the surface. this is a good sign that fermentation has begun. eventually, a scum will form on the surface, also a good sign. a bright, nosepiercing, dill-infused aroma should become quite apparent. if the smell becomes skanky, you may have a problematic fermentation. Skim the surface each day and check the pickles. their vibrant colour will eventually turn a duller olive green. the opaque white interior will soften, become more translucent, and acquire a similar hue to the exterior. after about a week, taste a pickle and examine its development. my preference is to let them go until the interior is fully transformed by the brine but not any longer (sort of a newold dill). the larger the cukes, the longer it takes when ready, remove the pickles and give them a rinse. Strain and reserve the brine. put a fresh pinch or two of pickling spice into each jar. pack the jars with pickles, fill with the strained brine and refrigerate. the pickles will continue to sour somewhat in the fridge, although very slowly.
Good deeds
By Signe Langford
photo: jeff coulSon
At work for Second Harvest Virginia Zimm is president of Faye Clack Communications, a local PR agency specialising in the food industry. But every now and then, she likes to trade in her pumps for a pair of sneakers. She enjoys schlepping boxes and trays of rescued food in and out of trucks, too. Zimm and her staff of 25 have been volunteering with Second Harvest for about a year. The pro bono campaign is run by account
manager Natalie Pavlenko, who saw a need and brought it to Zimm’s attention. “We create awareness for what they do at Second Harvest. [We] act as matchmakers between the charity and restaurants,” says Zimm. “You should see what gets thrown away from buffets!” And it’s not just restaurants that have food to share. “We pick up perfectly good food from manu-
facturers, distributors, processors, farmers, food retailers and from folks down at the Food Terminal.” Everyone in the office gives of their time, especially at the annual mega-fundraiser Toronto Taste, where just about the entire staff is put to work gathering dirty plates or answering questions. “This is our good karma work,” says Zimm. “We felt like we needed to give back to the community… and it warms my heart to see it going to people who need it. We
Zimm at work.
hope that what goes around, comes around.” Harvest 2010
9
Foreign Correspondents
By Signe Langford
Grilled Cheese
tHree tAkes on the north AmeriCAn ClAssiC We’re blessed to live in one hell of a cosmopolitan city, where international variations of the grilled cheese abound. Here are a few of the cheesiest (in a good way!) takes on a North American standard.
loic GoUrmet 722 Queen St. E., 416-850-8835 Croque monsieur ($8)… Leave it to the French to drown a grilled ham and emmental in cream sauce—in this case, a rich, nutmeg-y béchamel. talk about gilding the fleur de lis.
UdUpi palace p 1460 Gerrard St. E., 416-405-8189
Utopia café
paneer masala dosa ($8.19) is a huge crispy
586 College St., 416-534-7751
crepe made from a slightly fermented batter
A tex-Mex grilled cheese, the quesadilla is—
of chick pea and rice flour fried on a piping
like everything in texas—bigger, better… more.
hot ghee-drenched griddle. it’s stuffed with
Here, crispy tortillas ($10.99) are stuffed
homemade cheese, sautéed onion and tomato.
with marinated grilled chicken breast, cheddar,
this is a grilled cheese that goes to 11!
Monterey jack, green onion mayo and salsa.
Friday, Saturday, Sunday September 17-19, 2010 Festival Hotline: 416-410-9965 www.ukrainianfestival.com http://twitter.com/TorUkrFestival
10
CityBites
Take the TTC to Runnymede or Jane Station
photos: Jeff Coulson
Cheese and bread. Ask just about any lover of real, simple food and they’ll tell you a hunk of good cheese and a freshly baked crusty loaf is on their dead man walking menu. Add heat, a bit of butter, bacon fat or—be still all you chubby little foodie hearts—duck fat, and you’ve created the ultimate melange of melted yumminess and comfort. The classic grilled cheese that many Canadian kids grew up on—two slices of white bread and a slice or two of American processed cheese— has been around since, well, since the invention of sliced bread and processed cheese. In the ’80s, the late lamented Bregman’s Restaurant and Bakery at Yonge and St. Clair was regarded as innovative for adding sliced tomato, and by offering the diner a choice of cheeses between its fat slices of house-baked challah. Now, one only expects to find that perfect greasy-spoon wonder—its unique flavour courtesy of burger fat residue coating the flattop grill (that’s the reality, vegetarians!)— at a few old-school holdouts.
Reality CheCk
By Signe Langford
Kraft Dinner Smart
F OOT P RI N T S I N
T H E
V I N E Y A R D
It’s been said that wine gets its character from the soil, its personality from the vintage, its quality from the influence of man. For more than two decades we have tended our family’s estate vineyards and we are proud to produce wines that are distinctly Short Hills Bench. – Paul, Matthew and Daniel Speck
1469 Pelham Road St. Catharines, Ontario 1-877-735-4267 henryofpelham.com
QUALITY
•
AUTHENTICITY
•
FA M I LY
We’re torn about this. On one hand, who doesn’t want to get veggies into a kid? On the other, is a veggie still a veggie if it’s been boiled, dried, powdered, turned into macaroni, then boiled again and covered in cheese-like foodstuff? The President’s Choice white macaroni and cheese introduced in 1989 allowed foodies to keep eating the stuff while maintaining street cred. Now, Kraft has come on the scene with KD Smart—“smart” because there’s cauliflower in the noodles. Get it? The Kraft web site touts that one 50-gram prepared serving of KD Smart is equivalent to half a serving of boiled cauliflower, as defined by Canada’s Food Guide. Boiled being the operative word here. Most of us know what boiling does to the food value in a veggie. But if a hungry kid happily scarfs back some cooked cauliflower without giving a mom the gears, then bring it on. Right? And at around $1.50 a box—which contains four servings—this stuff is a quick, satifying meal that most kids adore. But has all the goodness of the cauliflower been processed right out? We asked registered holistic nutritionist Joy McCarthy to weigh in. Whaddaya say, Joy? Gimmick? “Totally. There’s nothing left, the minerals have been leached out, and the enzymes killed. It would also be fair to assume that there wouldn’t be much fibre left….” Lynne Galia, spokesperson for Kraft Canada, maintains that each KD Smart serving does indeed provide the same nutrition as a half serving of boiled cauliflower, just like the box says. Galia explains: “We’re not suggesting to replace vegetables with KD Smart, but it’s better than no veggies at all.” And further: “If a mom is feeding this to her kids, well, KD is not the only food consumers are eating in their balanced diets, and if people want to include it, we have a number of (healthier) options: whole wheat, white cheddar, and Smart.” Got a food item that needs a “reality check”? Visit our Facebook page and leave a comment, or email us at info@citybites.ca. Harvest 2010
11
Pantry
By Signe Langford
Tart and tangy Vinegars that’ll perk up your ’buds Grapes want to become wine, wine wants to become vinegar—and vinegar wants to become this stuff. Once upon a time Canadians doused French fries with white vinegar, while British chip-eaters had malt. Italians enjoyed balsamico, and the French had fancy vinaigre made from champagne—but of course!—for their frites. We wouldn’t see balsamico here until many years after balls-y shopkeepers Dean & Deluca first imported it to the US in the late ’70s. Ah, but time marches on and your bottle of white vinegar sits, forlorn, deep in the recesses of the pantry—we hope—displaced by sometimes sweet, but always sour, foreigners and local upstarts. Like these.
Japanese Uchibori Dessert Vinegar Condiment Technically, not quite acidic enough to bear the name vinegar—hence, ‘condiment’—this liquid ambrosia is sweet, mild and drinkable straight up. With fruity intensity—apple, lychee, tomato and lime—it can be added to cocktails, soda water or even drizzled over ice cream. $22.50 for 250 mL at William Ashley, 55 Bloor St. W., 416-964-2900
Venturi-Schulze Aceto Balsamico Let’s just put Italian DOC’s aside for the moment. Sure, terroir is wildly important. But we think sometimes the boundaries of place and taste should, nay, must be pushed. How else will we define our culinary selves? This black gold is made from juice simmered over an open fire and aged in small barrels of French oak, acacia, ash, cherry, and chestnut woods.
Vinegar care and feeding Here are a few tips for maximum sour grape enjoyment: A SExy LIttLE MIStEr filled with malt vinegar prevents you from sogging your fries. FrEt Not IF yoU FIND a mysterious blob floating at the bottom of a bottle of vinegar. that’s just mother, and she’s a collection of live bacteria. Vital for vinegar making. thINk oUtSIDE thE SAVoUry Box. if a vinegar is sweet and special enough, experiment with drinks and desserts. hEALth gUrUS—the hemp-wearing kind, anyway—extol the many virtues of apple cider vinegar. it sure is tasty, and it can’t hurt, right? WhAt to Do WIth thAt JUg of white vinegar sitting at the back of your cupboard? Vinegar makes a great natural weed killer, does a fine job with the windows, de-greases and de-limes, helps keep the drains flowing, gets rid of odours, is an all-purpose cleaner and gets your scalp and hair all squeaky clean. Oh, and what would baking sodafuelled volcanoes be without it?
$49.90 for 250 mL from
Mr. Vinegar Northern Whisper There’s a waiting list for this one. Hand-made in very small batches— only 50 bottles a year—this is maple syrup vinegar that undergoes a third step of being slowly dehydrated without heat, until it’s as thick as syrup (once again). Says Mr. Vinegar himself, Roger Lambert: “My wife, Joyce, is my inspiration, and this vinegar is my pride and joy.”
12
CityBites
venturischulze.com
Essence of Niagara Ice Wine Vinegar This stuff is made from the real deal. Harvested by hand, at a finger-numbing –10°C to –13°C, the grapes are pressed while still frozen, and it’s this precious elixir that goes on to become something truly special.
Appelvinager med Lingon Ikea Food It’s sweet, fruity, sharp and totally affordable. Sure, it’s not local, and it comes in on great big skids from Sweden—skids most likely made from our boreal forests— but let’s be honest, who doesn’t go to Ikea from time to time for a bookcase, some tea lights, a SIGNE rug, perhaps?
$39.99 for 155 mL exclusively at
$24.99 for 250 mL at
Culinarium, 705 Mt. Pleasant Rd.,
Pusateri’s, 57 Yorkville Ave.,
$2.29/250mL at Ikea,
647-430-7004, culinarium.ca
416-785-9100
multiple locations
stuff
By Signe Langford
Cherry Lane Concentrated Saxon Chocolates
Tart Cherry Juice
Maple Pecan Bark
at Sherwood Market, 1054
Ontario cherry season is long over. Sad, but unavoidable. To ease the melancholy, may we suggest a healthy dose of this sweet-tart syrup mixed with soda water—vodka optional— smoothies, even in cola—rum optional—and all with your doc’s approval. Also makes a fantastic glaze for duck.
Mt. Pleasant Rd., 485-4471,
$19.50/750 mL at Scheffler’s
saxonchocolates.com
Delicatessen, St. Lawrence
Most TV doctors agree, nuts are good for you. Nuts with pure Canadian maple and butter are good for your soul. This stuff is absolutely delicious, preservative-free and with nothing unpronounceable on the label. $6.99/80g bag
Market, 93 Front St. E., 416-364-2806 cherrylane.net
All-Clad Ultimate Chicken Roaster
We know marketing types toss around “ultimate” like it’s going out of style. This time it’s different. Ever had those amazingly rich, flavourful, moist roasted potatoes at a Greek joint and wondered: a) how the hell am I going to eat all this rice and potatoes and b) what makes them so damn good? Two words: animal fat. Or, to be more genteel, roast drippings. We could go on about the other features, but isn’t the promise of perfect chicken-y potatoes enough? $214.95 at Williams-Sonoma, 100 Bloor St., 416-962-9455, williams-sonoma.ca
Menu Wine Breather
It’s like an hourglass for perfectly and speedily aerated wine in just two minutes. Attach the decanter to an open bottle, flip once to serve in the carafe, twice to pour the wine back into its bottle. The decanter is sexy and the action is fun to watch. Hmm, wine porn, anyone?
Ice Syrup: Pure Canadian Grape Syrup
55 Mill St., Distillery,
Existing in a wickedly delicious world, somewhere between ice wine and maple syrup, Ice Syrup—an elixir made from evaporated frozen grape juice—is something that should be on all y’all’s bucket list. An Ontario specialty, it’s brilliant blended with olive oil and mustard, brushed over pork or straight up, drizzled over Gorgonzola and walnuts or vanilla ice cream.
416-861-1821, bergo.ca
Vidal or Cabernet Franc, $29.95 at McEwan
$90 at Bergo Design,
Foods, 38 Karl Fraser Rd., 416-444-6262, mcewanfoods.com
Harvest 2010
13
Books
By Signe Langford
Read ’em and eat Cleaving: a Story of Marriage, Meat, and obSeSSion By Julie Powell
Fret not, this is not the Julie we know of Julie and Julia. This is especially not the goodie-two-shoesJulie as portrayed by Amy Adams in the film. This Julie is lusty, a bit nasty, and often covered in blood. Verbatim: “We drink. It’s blood, all right. Salty and oddly familiar, like biting the inside of your cheek or having a tooth pulled.” (Hachette Canada, $29.99) tony aSpler’S Cellar book By Tony Aspler
Practical how-to’s, lists, and facts about building,
stocking and maintaining your own cellar are peppered with fun and fascinating wine history and trivia. Verbatim: “Centurions on the march were allocated a litre of wine a day; they used it to sterilize their water and disinfect their wounds, and they consumed it for pleasure.” (Broadway Books, $21.99) thiS Cake iS for the party By Sarah Selecky
This collection of regularfolk short stories, by a regular Toronto gal, are not all about food. But, Selecky, like many authors, has done her time— plenty of it, in kitchens
and on the floor—and food and cooking, in loving detail, winds it’s way into her relaxed prose. Verbatim: “The pizza dough is already unrolled onto a cookie sheet. It’s pale white under a sweep of red sauce. It reminds me of naked skin, but not in a good way.” (Thomas Allen, $22.95) the Sono baking CoMpany Cookbook By John Barricelli
The evenings are just cool enough now to get back into baking, and this baker and his down-homenothing-too-fancy-justdown-right-good recipes will have you rolling in dough of a frosty fall Sunday night. Verbatim: “It’s 3 a.m. Most of the houses are dark along the highway. Connecticut is sleeping, but for me, as for most bakers, the day has just begun.” (Random House, $43)
MiSS dahl’S voluptuouS delightS By Sophie Dahl
Don’t let the skinny broad on the cover bring out your inner cynic. The photos are gorgeous, the recipes, simple and droolinducing, and the bits inbetween read like a diary. Not Anne Frank’s diary, more like Barbie’s. Verbatim: “When I get sad, all I want are jelly beans.” (Harper Collins, $36.99)
!noitanCrush, itseD eToronto’s niW nwotnDowntown woD s’otnoWine roT ,hDestination! surC .sunem deCrush cirp-lleWine w htiw Bar encombines iw dna doo extensive f fo egdelknowledge wonk evisnof etxfood e senand ibmwine oc rawith B enwell-priced iW hsurC menus. cop dnParticular a etalap yrattention eve tius ohas t gnbeen ihtempaid os htto iwthe ,tsilwine eniwlist, ehtwith ot disomething ap neeb sato h nsuit oitnevery etta rapalate lucitraand P pocket. .rab tnecaCrush jda ehtWine ni 05Bar ,moseats or gniup nidto nia 100 m epeople ht ni elpinoe the p 0main 01 otdining pu staroom, es raB50 enin iWthe hsuadjacent rC bar. .gninid ocWe serflalso a rofboast oitap arospacious odtuo suooutdoor icaps a patio tsaobfor oslalfresco a eW dining. ,ssalg ehtCrush yb senisiwyour 04 nKing aht eStreet rom htWest iw ,endestination iw rof noitanfor itswine, ed tsewith W temore ertS gthan niK r40 uoywines si hsuby rCthe glass, .enisiuc s’paired nosliWbrilliantly leahciM fwith ehCExecutive evitucexEChef htiw yMichael ltnaillirbWilson’s deriap cuisine. .unem rabCrush eht ffohas %0recently 5 gnirefflaunched o ,rab eht nai Cinq tpeS áá Sept qniC in a the dehbar, cnuaoffering l yltnece50% r sahoffhsthe urCbar menu. .krow fo kA eegreat w lufsway sertstoaunwind retfa dnafter iwnuaostressful t yaw taeweek rg A of work. tseW tWe eertlook S gnforward iK 554 .to noseeing os uoy you gniesoon. es ot d455 rawrKing of koStreet ol eW West moc.rabeni416-977-1234 whsurc.www • www.crushwinebar.com 4321-779-614 14
CityBites
FRESH
By Signe Langford
It’s turkey time Your guide to tHE bESt of the boYds The early bird gets the worm, and the early shopper gets the bird—the free-range, organic, heritage bird. We suggest you hang on to this handy-dandy guide for Christmas We’ve hunted down the city’s healthiest, happiest (well, until the inevitable) and tastiest gobblers for your holiday table. Some of these folks have thought of every-thing—stuffing, gravy, sides—just ask, and call in your orders early. At least a month. And take a tip, too. “With the Bronze and wild birds, you have to know what you’re doing or they can be tough as rubber,” warns Marlon Pather, owner of The Butchers on Yonge Street. “A long, low, and slow braise is the way to go.”
now that’s a good-looking turkey.
rowe FarMs Bloor Meat Market
What: Fresh cage-free Ontario birds from 12 - 24 lb. Price: $3.49/lb
MeDiuM rare PreMiuM Meat Boutique
912 Queen St. E., 416-461-4383, and
2283 Bloor St. W., 416-767-2105
What: Fresh cage-free naturally-raised Broad Breasted Bronze 12 - 20 lb; White Beltsville 10 - 14 lb. Price: $3.95/lb
the Butchers
5241 Dundas St. W., 416-231-1500,
royal BeeF
What: Fresh certified organic white farmed, “wild” and Bronze. Whites 10 - 20 lb; wild and Bronze 7 - 12 lb Price: White $4.49/lb; “wild” $5.99/lb; Bronze $6.49/lb
mediumrare.to
What: Fresh naturally-raised free-range birds from 10 - 22 lb. Price: $4.59/lb
the FrienDly Butcher
1968 Danforth Ave., 416-421-1029, royalbeef.ca
2636 Yonge St., 416-483-5777, thebutcherorganic.com
What: Fresh, local, naturally-raised, cage-free birds from a third generation farm in St. Annes, from 10 – 20 lb. Price: $3.49/lb 3269 Yonge St., 416-544-1729, and one
cuMBrae’s
more location, thefriendlybutcher.com
What: Fresh, naturally-raised on small, local family farms—may include Bronze from 10 - 25 lb. Price: $4.50/lb
the healthy Butcher
481 Church St. and two other locations, 416-923-5600, cumbraes.com photo: ©istockphoto.com
What: Fresh Ontario free-run birds from 12 - 22 lb. Price: $3.99/lb
What: Fresh local drug-free cage-free hens from Murray and Robert Beliak of Beliak Heritage Farms from 10 – 25 lb. Price: $3.95/lb St. Lawrence Market, 91-93 Front St. E., 416-601-9780, dilisomeats.com
sPringcreek FarM ProDuce
What: Fresh naturally-raised cage-free Ontario birds from 11 - 40 lb. Price: $2.69/lb 291 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-534-9703 the Village Butcher
What: Fresh naturally- and pastureraised Ontario birds from 14 - 22 lb. Price: $4.59/lb (subject to supply) 565 Queen St. W., 416-674-2642, and two
Di liso’s Fine Meats
4 other locations, rowefarms.ca
What: Fresh organic birds from Blue Heron Farms from 14 - 18 lb and a small number of heritage Bronze. Price: $4.99/lb and $5.99/lb 2914 Lake Shore Blvd. W., 416-503-9555, thevillagebutcher.ca
other locations, thehealthybutcher.com white house Meats
What: Fresh free-range small-flock local birds from 8 - 22 lb. Price: $4.50/lb
What: Fresh naturally-raised cage-free Ontario birds from 10 - 25 lb. Price: $3.99/lb (subject to supply)
1097 Yonge St., 416-928-0296, olliffe.ca
St. Lawrence Market, 416-366-4465,
olliFFe
plus two other GTA locations
Innovative mid-town restaurant serving delicious French bistro cuisine. Monthly prix fixe dinners showcase French regional cooking. 581 Mt. Pleasant Road, Toronto, ON 647.350.5772 www.mogettebistro.com
Harvest 2010
15
Eating tiFF
By Signe Langford
Dining with the stars Ah, Yorkville, thy time is right now. Come every September, even the most blasé of hipsters will don some really big shades and head on over for a little surreptitious stargazing. Keeping up that level of nonchalance can be hungry work, so we’ve rounded up your best bets for an affordable bite or the fullon celebrity treatment.
The CiTyBiTes guidE to YorkvillE’s sTar-sTudded eaTeries Caren’s Wine and Cheese Bar
One of the most enchanting and secluded patios in the city, perfect for a late night nibble from an impressive cheese menu. 158 Cumberland St., 416-962-5158 The Host
Easy Does It
Very elegant Indian, with a truly lovely patio, just west of all the TIFF hubbub.
Hemingway’s Restaurant
Everyone wants to be on Amber’s patio but head on up here and watch the pretty people down there, you know, drinking too much and barfing on their Guccis. 142 Cumberland St., 416-968-2828
14 Prince Arthur Ave., 416-800-1144
Celebrity Treats Pangaea Restaurant
Avenue at Four Seasons
The epicentre of TIFF with an awesome new chef, TIFF specials and no attitude. 21 Avenue Road, 416-964-0411 Crème Brasserie.
Stepping in where Michelle left off, classic white-linen bistro fare—steak frite, moules marinières, escargot—and a taste of Paris. 162 Cumberland St., 416-962-7363 Sotto Sotto Restaurant
Old World grotto, impeccably fresh seafood, handmade pasta and a Wine Spectator award-winning wine list.
True Restaurant
Classic meets cutting edge, Ocean Wise approved and a killer wine list.
All organic, all affordable, from drinks to the casual menu.
1221 Bay St., 647-724-3346
69 Yorkville Ave., 416-800-3157
Le Trou Normand Restaurant
Wonky rooms are crammed with French country antiques and china, and nothing has changed here since 1973. Not even the chef. It’s kind of weird, but sweetly nostalgic—and they serve caribou!
Foie, caviar, a $30 pork chop—sides extra— and you, all under sexy black umbrellas. Prepare to share the scene with silverbacks puffing on cigars, brats partying on daddy’s Amex Black and ladies who keep their cosmetic surgeon on speed dial.
90 Yorkville Ave., 416-967-5956
116 Yorkville Ave., 416-961-9600
The Coffee Mill Restaurant
Old school charm. Seriously: fruit cocktail with those crazy maraschino cherries, plus real-deal comfort food. 99 Yorkville Ave., 416-920-2108
116-A Avenue Rd., 416-962-0011 One Restaurant
Mela Italian Vegetarian Café
It’s a living monument to Yorkville’s hippie days, a tiny haphazard room and a kitchen pumping out veggie stick-to-your-ribs dishes.
Chef Tomas Bellec returns to Four Seasons
7a Yorkville Ave., 416-916-0619
not his first home—that would be Brittany—but rather his culinary home: the kitchens
Indigo Masala Room
at the Four Seasons. Working under then Executive Chef lynn Crawford in ’99, Bellec
Goan food—Portuguese influenced Indian—is not easy to find in this city. Try the Goan fish curry.
beef cheeks on a top-drawer hotel menu? oh my! He’s also known for a commitment
137 Avenue Rd., 416-800-1341
CityBites_Fall
8/23/10
2:07 PM
after cooking his way around the world, Chef tomas Bellec has come home. Well,
learned how to cater to the luxe set. He’s returned as executive chef of Studio Café and avenue. look for Bellec to shake things up a bit with interesting cuts. Braised to local and sustainable ingredients.
Page 1
CELEBRATING OUR
26
TH
ANNIVERSARY! SPECIALIZING IN ORGANICALLY GROWN, NON-GMO & ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE PRODUCTS.
www.thebigcarrot.ca ORGANIC JUICE BAR • NEW COOKING CLASSES • FREE NUTRITIONAL STORE TOURS
Natural Food Market 416.466.2129 Wholistic Dispensary 416.466.8432 348 Danforth Avenue (1 block west of Chester subway)
info@thebigcarrot.ca Monday to Friday 9:00-9:00 Saturday 9:00-8:00 Sunday 11:00-6:00
16
CityBites
Confessions of a Yorkville Doorman how To gEt BEHind tHE vElvEt ropE and oTher dirTy seCreTs Mr. Door Man (our anonymous pal) spent six years running the floor and manning the door at the famously hard-to-penetrate Yorkville den of iniquity Amber. He gives us the dope on getting past the velvet rope. During TIFF it must be even harder to get
way in or on the way out, you’ll bypass the line every single time, no matter what’s happening inside. Again, assuming you fit the look and crowd.
in to some places. Are there some joints just not even worth trying? Everything is pretty doable. If you’re a regular who tips well and spends, you can get into almost any event. It can get tougher the bigger the star is who shows up. The best way to catch stars during TIFF is to come during the afternoon, or when it’s quieter, during the week. Most stars jet as soon as possible on weekends or after opening-night parties.
work for some doormen and bartenders, but it wasn’t my deal.
party. Think Studio 54. A diverse group of people who are fashionable, want to drink and party is the goal.
What does a doorman look for in a prospective
And about that waistline? If you’re fat, good
guest, presuming he’s not working strictly
luck next time! Most owners will say there is only so much room and they don’t want one person taking up the space of two or three. If you’re fat, order lots and lots of bottle service, and still expect to be put in the back.
off a guest list? Bottle service ordered from
They were all lame.
the door will get you in, but we’re not talking some cheap bottle of wine, we’re talking a bottle of Champagne or vodka. Basically, it’s gotta be a spend of $200+ per every three guests. Or, three or four trendy, gorgeous women with one guy. That works too.
What were some of the worst? “Don’t you
Does the doorman really look at your shoes
know who I am?” “I know the owner.” “Do you know how much money I have?” “But we’re gorgeous!” I’ve seen tons of idiots being cocky or trying to tease the door people. That’s a great way to watch people keep getting in ahead of you.
and decide? Your waistline? The labels on
What’s the best begging line you’ve ever heard? Never heard one that impressed me.
phoTo: ©isToCkphoTo.Com/sTray_CaT
What about sex and drugs? Drugs and sex
Does a cash bribe do the trick? And if so, how much will open doors and how little will cause insult? It can, but you still have to fit the look. If you look like shit and hand over a $100 bill, it still won’t get you in. Most regulars tip the door on the way in and on the way out. Twenty dollars is standard and $50 is excellent. If you tip that on the
your clothes? Yes. Shoes and watches. Nice
expensive shoes and a watch usually mean money. The overall look is important too. And we always want more gorgeous girls than guys and never too much of one kind of group. Not too many suits, not too many gays, not too many Ginos or Ginas, etc. If you have too many girls then no drinks are ordered. If you don’t have enough guys, then bottle service is not being ordered for the girls. Too many guys, and fights break out due to too many dicks in the room. Big cockfight. Too many of any group turns people off. It becomes a gang instead of a
O&B at the movies
Two nEW EatEriES opEn aT TiFF Bell lighTBox Film fanatics will enjoy a wide range of eating options at this year’s toronto international Film Festival with the launch late august of two oliver & Bonacini properties at the spanking new tiFF Bell lightbox at king and John. Executive chef Jason Bangerter of o&B’s auberge de pommier is directing the menus at both a casual eatery and a more formal dining room. the easygoing Canteen seats 90 in banquettes and along a large communal table, along with 70 patio seats designed to mesh organically with the street scene. the fine-dining space, luma, is a second-level restaurant and lounge that seats 230, plus 50 on the terrace. the menu focuses on Canadian and local artisanal ingredients.
Featuring an extensive wine list that focuses on artsinal producers from Ontario and around the world.
“Co-owner Dave Billington leads a smooth, friendly staff and has put together a wine list that favours Ontario stars at bargain prices.” JAMES CHATTO, TORONTO LIFE 234 King St. East | 416.363.8447 | info@localfare.ca | localfare.ca 9HULWDVB&LW\%LWHV$GB$SULO LQGG
30
Harvest 2010
17
The Culinary Experts’ We asked a panel of food and tourism professionals to reCommend their favourite Culinary experienCes beyond the Gta. read it, then Get out of toWn!
El Gastronomo Vagabundo at Flat rock Cellars.
Angela Aiello on a vineyard tour in Niagara.
The Truck Gourmet dogs, cheese Stops at Flat Rock and food on the move Who: Angela Aiello ExpErtisE: iYellow Wine Club owner and tour guide, iyellowwineclub.com
#1. Flat Rock cellaRs & el GastRonomo VaGabundo • Niagara Drink a glass of local vino and enjoy a local fare from a roadside retro taco truck. Australian chef Adam Hynam-Smith and partner Tamara Jenson are globally inspired and locally driven and bring gourmet eat-out to the winery. Taste creative and delicious tacos like the Dirk Diggler and the Don Caprese. flatrockcellars.com
#2. buddha doG • pictoN, pec Order a flight of 4-inch dogs; savoury, sweet and spicy. Weiners are about $2 each and all ingredients are locally sourced. Buddha dog’s dogs, are the definition of gourmet hot dog. (Also in Collingwood and Toronto’s EverGreen Brick Works.) buddhafoodha.com
#3. FiFth towN cheese • pictoN, pec Taste five cheeses with five local wines in the outdoor pavilion— for just $12. Watch dragonflies dart around you while tasting and learning about local cheese and PEC wines. Fifth Town is a Platinum LEED accredited building. fifthtown.ca
18
CityBites
I’m sitting on the Green Roof at Flat Rock Cellars on a breezy summer day. Visiting Niagara wine country sure works up an appetite, but sitting down for a long lunch is not on the menu. Enter El Gastronomo Vagabundo, the very first gourmet food truck in Canada. Peapod Cuisine chef-partners Adam Hynam-Smith and Tamara Jensen came up with the idea when Flatrock proprietor Ed Madronich mentioned he didn’t want to open a winery restaurant but still wanted to offer high-end food. After Peapod Cuisine catered an event at the winery, they got to talking. Adam and Tamara loved the gourmet food truck concept popularized by a few American celebrity chefs. After three of Adam’s Thai Fighter Tacos, Madronich was convinced. Peapod built the truck, bringing gourmet street food to Flat Rock. “We knew our food would be a great match for the wines. We use bold flavours and we’re inspired by food like Southeast Asian and Middle Eastern dishes,” says Adam. I’m having the Hulk—a vibrant, green curry chicken in a taco wrap—and a glass of Flat Rock’s Twisted, one of their signature white blends. A salad of heirloom beets and radishes, dabbed with the freshest goat cheese, has me swooning. I trade bites of the tempura halibut taco, matched with Nadja’s Riesling. The menu changes daily, featuring the freshest local ingredients. This is “wow” truck-stop food! Through the end of October, the truck is at Flat Rock every Friday to Sunday. Visit elgastro.com to find out more, and follow on Twitter. Download the “taco loco” app from iTunes.
photo: (left) Chantel Chaisson;
By Patricia Noonan
Harvest 2010 Tour My Top 5 Ontario Culinary Tourism Hits Who: Rebecca LeHeup ExpErtisE: Executive Director of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance
#1. hit raviNe viNeyard estate wiNery in Niagara-on-the-Lake on Friday and Monday evenings for oysters from Rodney’s Oyster Bar. The outdoor kitchen overlooks the vineyards and is a perfect place to pull up a stool and watch the sunset. Chef Paul Harber serves up oysters with outstanding housemade condiments. His Oyster Rockefeller’s rock, especially when paired up with Ravine’s ’08 Reserve Chardonnay. 1366 York Rd, St. Davids, 1-905-262-VINE (8463), ravinevineyard.com.
#2. i love to savour musKoKa! Stop at Milford Bay Trout Farm to catch a trout, and also pick up their amazing smoked trout paté. Trek on to Johnston’s Cranberry Marsh, home of Muskoka Lakes Winery. Tour the bogs and trail system, learn all about cranberry farming and wash everything down with some wine. The Oak Aged Barrel Fermented Wild Blueberry Wine is my favourite. Complete your day at Taboo Resort’s Culinary Theatre: six courses showcase the best local and seasonal ingredients sourced by Chef Ivan Loubier. Milford Bay Trout Farm, Hewlitt Road, 705-764-1797, rwuhde@rogers.com;
Market. from schroedter’s Farm old-fashioned donuts
For the love of dairy… and popcorn Who: Kathy Guidi ExpErtisE: Founder of the Cheese Education Guild
Johnston’s Cranberry Marsh, 1074 Cranberry Rd., in the Muskoka Region, 705-762-3203, cranberry.ca; Taboo Resort, 1209 Muskoka
Kawartha ice cream
Beach Rd., Gravenhurst, 1-800-461-0236, tabooresort.com.
An authentic Canadian experience, 73 years young this year, Kawartha is one of the last real dairy—made with fresh milk—ice cream makers left. The flavours have fun names, I love chatting with people in line because everyone is in a good mood, and of course, how yummy it tastes! Tough part is deciding which flavour to have, but maple walnut usually wins out. 12750, Hwy 35, Minden, 1-866-453-6455
For more info, visit savourmuskoka.com.
#3. i live iN priNce edward couNty. There are so many things I love about PEC, that it’s hard to pick one favourite. I’m going to let you in on one of my sweet spots, Schroedter’s Farm Market. They make amazing old-fashioned donuts and their Organic Bread & Butter Pickles are so good that I could eat an entire jar. 1492 Highway 62, Bloomfield) 613-393-1823.
#4. For aN amaziNg place to get away with the one you love and just pamper yourselves, you have got to hit Langdon Hall in Cambridge. Chef Jonathan Gushue really, really, gets it; the food, wine list, service, all outstanding. The setting is stunning, and for those who like to run: the trails around the property provide a great way to work off a nine-course tasting menu! 1 Langdon Drive, Cambridge, 519-740-2100, langdonhall.ca.
#5. i have Kids. aNd i love to travel with them. My top pick for family extrava-local-ganza is the Elmhirst Resort. The Elmhirst family raise their own Black Angus beef and keep chickens and turkeys, all on the resort. Each cottage has its own herb patch, they grow red fife wheat and they are totally dedicated to local foods both in the dining room and with their cottage grocery service. Located on beautiful Rice Lake, with two playgrounds, hiking, biking, horseback riding trails, indoor and outdoor pools (seasonal). It’s heaven for kids. And with a 100% Canadian wine cellar, I never want to leave! 1-800-461-1940, elmhirst.com.
(second location in Bobcaygon).
piNe river cheese Quebec has nothing on these golden gems from eastern Ontario! Made fresh several times a day, these curds are not refrigerated until the end of the day; warm and squeeky, is the only way to eat them! They’re the real deal, tender and milky with an aroma of butter. Who needs gravy and fries to mask such goodness? RR 4, Ripley, 1-800-265-1175, pinerivercheese.com.
lake Rosseau FaRmeRs’ maRket Popped in pure corn oil than sprinkled with just the right balance of sugar and sea salt, the kettle popcorn here is warm, crispy, crunchy, and perfectly sweet and salty. What could be better than sharing a bag as you stroll through the market and listen to the great entertainment in the band shell on a Saturday morning? You can buy it prepackaged in specialty stores, good stuff, but not the same as freshly popped. Just off Hwy 141, on the bank of Lake Rosseau, at the end of Short Street. rosseaumarket.com.
Kathy Guidi runs an eight-week certification cheese course starting this fall. For information: artisancheesemarketing.com. Harvest 2010
19
By Michelle Kalman
PEC’s Best in Show thE iNsidEr pANEl oF toroNto ExpAts: MaryJane McCallum: Talent Agent, The ARC Bruno Francois: Owner, The Old Third Vineyard Winery Manuella Pin: Owner, Bethel Organics
FaRms
the lighthouse restaurant at picton harbour inn
Their Big Bay Breakfast has been voted a favourite by locals. 33 Bridge St., Picton, 613-476-2186, pec.on.ca/pictonharbourinn
wiNeries long dog Winery
Famous for tasty elk meat and velvet antler health supplements.
This gem of a winery uses only 100% local South Marysburgh grapes. 104 Brewers Rd., Milford,
85 Jericho Rd. RR. 3 Demorestville,
613-476-4140, longdog.ca
Graham Farms
613-393-5680 grahamfarms.com. the old third Vineyard hagerman’s
Visitors are offered a delightful woven basket to fill with fresh County bounty. 13644 Loyalist
Their high density Burgundian style pinot noir is putting this new winery on the map. 251 Closson Rd, Hillier,
A chef ’s roadmap Who: Scott Vivian ExpErtisE: Chef/owner of Toronto restaurant, Beast
the aNcaster old mill This is where my wife and I had our wedding reception. Not only is it a beautiful space, but the “earth-to-table” cooking that chefs Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann are doing is amazing. It’s the perfect spot for a Sunday family dinner, or a romantic dinner for two, overlooking the waterfall. 548 Old Dundas Rd., Ancaster, 905-648-1828, ancastermill.com.
elbeRta FaRms and maRket A fantastic roadside stand in Western Ontario, just outside Brantford. Pick up some fresh seasonal produce from local farms, tasty snacks, oatmeal raisin cookies and local honey. Governors Rd., E., Paris, 519-752-2047.
treadwell’s Farm to table cuisiNe In a beautiful small-town setting, Chef Stephen Treadwell and son James are defining local Niagara cuisine. It’s a great place to get away for a romantic night.
Parkway, Picton, 613-476-5362.
613-399-2554, theoldthird.com
Bethel organics
hinterland Winery
61 Lakeport Rd., Old Port Dalhousie, 905-934-9797,
These accidental farmers raise Berkshire pigs, pilgrim geese, Muscovy ducks and chantecler chickens. 494 Bethel Rd., Picton,
A critically acclaimed sparkling rosé is the cream of their crop.
treadwellcuisine.com.
1258 Closson Rd., Hillier,
Scott Vivian opened Beast this summer, with the reigning philosophy to support local suppliers. Beast, 96 Tecumseth St., 647-352-6000, thebeastrestaurant.com
613-476-0089, bethelorganics.ca (call for appt).
RestauRants East and Main
613-921-7003, hinterlandwine.com
iNNs Merrill inn
Boutique meets history at this award-winning inn.
Former Auberge de Pommier’s sous chef Lili Sulllivan serves up the perfect rare steak. 270 Main St.,
343 Main St. East, Picton,
Wellington, 613-399-5420,
the lavender Farm B&B
eastandmain.ca.
In the heart of wine country, this heritage home sits amid fields of fragrant lavender.
harvest
Celebrity chef Michael Potters continues to satisfy with his attentive, local-seasonal cuisine.
866-567-5969, merrillinn.com
732 Closson Rd., Hillier, 613-399-1855 bbcanada.com/9939
106 Bridge St., Picton, 613-476-6763,
snack shacks
harvestrestaurant.ca.
tall poppy Café
lake on the Mountain
Family-friendly, barista service and a delish deli counter offering take-away.
Order the poutine topped with a confit of house-brew-braised short ribs. 268 County Rd. 7,
298 Main St.,Wellington, 613-399-2233, tallpoppycafe.ca
Picton, 613-476-1321 lakeonthemountain.com
Fifth town Artisan Cheese Co.
bRunch
Get to the goat milk ice cream before it runs out!
Waupoos Winery
4309 County Rd. 8, Picton,
Take in the stunning terrace views of surrounding vineyards and Lake Ontario. 3016 County Rd. 8,
613-476-5755, fifthtown.ca
Picton, 613-476-8338 waupooswinery.com
Michelle Kalman is founder of starter-kit hospitality consulting. Visit starterkit.ca.
Stratford and around… Who: Jamie Drummond ExpErtisE: Sommelier and Director of Good Food Media
the old pruNe Stratford’s Old Prune restaurant has been a stalwart of the town’s fine dining scene for a few decades now. While Chef Bryan Steele’s apps and mains satisfy the most demanding gourmands, don’t overlook the kitchen’s amazing array of desserts. 151 Albert St., Stratford, 519-271-5052, oldprune.on.ca.
Rundles Synonymous with Stratford’s fine dining scene since opening in 1977, Rundles more than lives up to its reputation. The front dining room and their Sophisto Bistro are at once contemporary and traditional. Chef Neil Baxter’s cuisine is rooted in classical French, with an innovative edge. 9 Cobourg St., Stratford, 519-271-6442, rundlesrestaurant.com.
shaKespeare pies aNd Farm gate outlet Nestled in the hamlet of Shakespeare just outside Stratford. Steak, steak and kidney, chicken, tourtière, turkey… apple, peach, blueberry, rhubarb—all made from scratch with ingredients from local farmers whenever possible. 2264 Line 34 (Hwy 7&8), Shakespeare, 519-625-1286.
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CityBites
Read more from Jamie Drummond at goodfoodmedia.com.
Wellington County jaunt
Get
Who: Anita Stewart ExpErtisE: Author, food activist and Elora local
the eloRa FaRmeRs’ maRket Small but mighty, featuring great Mennonite baking and vegetables, amazing locally raised Alpaca “wool,” and the best work socks on the planet. Saturday mornings at Mill St. E., Elora, elorainfo.com.
e & g pastry & FiNe caKes Here we have a gem of a place, boasting a European-trained pastry chef. I buy every birthday cake here. Drop by later in the week for the best selection of goodies. 133 Metcalfe St., Elora, 519-846-2999.
FRabeRt’s FResh Food Tucked into the old Fergus Market building, this shop not only sells the ultimate in local ingredients, Chef Derek Roberts prepares myriad take-away items for quick suppers and picnics beside the Grand River. 185 Queen St., W., Fergus, 226-383-7374, frabertsfreshfood.com.
marj’s village KitcheN In Alma, about 5 km north of Elora, is a quintessential country kitchen frequented by local ladies and farmers, truckers and business people. All the baking is from scratch. Take home one of their seasonal pies or a tray of awesome butter tarts.
$).% ). s 4!+% /54
Thank you for selecting us “Best Wings” in Toronto Catch your favourite sports at the Bistro-Bar including UFC, Leafs TV and more!
Tues. Wing Night - $6.75
Weekend Combo - $9.95 Wings, Chicken Breasts, Bistro Poppers, Fries and Dipping Sauce.
Slow Cooked Roast Beef
Lunch Special - $7.95
CityBites delivered
right to your door $20/year!
Makes a
great gift citybites.ca/subscriptions
519-846-0706, marjs.ca.
Stratford and north to Sudbury! Who: Krysta Oben ExpErtisE: Sommelier at Toronto’s
Atlantic restaurant
avery house b&b Usually these places terrify me, but this is remarkably free of chintz pillows and cat figurines, and they make a delicious breakfast. Not a chef, just an experienced mom.
The Fine Art of Indian Cuisine
330 Ontario St., Stratford, 800-510-8813, averyhouse.com.
the hoito I’m not sure if Thunder Bay counts as a destination, but the Hoito might. Karjalanpiirakka, or Finnish savoury pastries, cheap prices, drunk locals and students. 314 Bay St., Thunder Bay, 807-345-6323.
heNrietta’s piNe baKery The best sticky buns, and little things called Muskoka clouds that are impossibly light berry scones. They also have gluten-free things, but I don’t know what those taste like. RR 1, 2868 Hwy 60, Dwight, 705-635-2214.
1522 Bayview Ave., Toronto. Ontario M4G 3B4 For Reservations: 416.489.4899 kamasutraindianrestaurant.com Harvest 2010
21
marketplace
GET OU T OF TOWN !
PROMOTE YOUR CATERING BUSINESS IN OUR NEXT ISSUE
• High Impact • Pre-Holiday Exposure • Cost Effective • Full Colour Call Wendy 416-406-0756 for a ratecard
www.oxfordfresh.com www.tourismoxford.ca
Join us for a celebration of women and the special bond between female friends. Taste exclusive wines. Savour gourmet food. Taking centre stage this year, Mark McEwan, acclaimed chef and owner of restaurants North 44, Bymark, One and Fabbrica, host of the hit Food Network show The Heat, mastermind of the fine food emporium mcewan and author of Great Food at Home. Meet Mark McEwan and mingle with other high profile food and wine personalities.
In support of The Belinda Stronach Foundation Thursday, September 30, 2010, 7:00pm – 9:30pm Audi Downtown Toronto Tickets: $125 (Ticket price includes Great Food at Home) To order tickets visit www.LiffordLadiesNight.com, call 416 440 4101 or email wineevents@liffordwine.com JEROBOAM SPONSOR
MAGNUM SPONSORS
How to Buy Wine from an Agent
Buying consignment wines from an agent is easy. Go online and get their list. Phone or email your order. Wait for delivery. Repeat.
B&W Wines 416-531-5553 www.bwwines.com
B&W Wines offers a portfolio of iconic and boutique wineries: Penley Estate, Lillypilly, Two Hands and Jansz from OZ; Darioush and Testarossa in California; Argentinean Bodegas Weinert; Barolos from Brovia, Rhone-Ranger Jean-Luc Colombo and Douro producer Quinta de Ventolezo.
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CityBites
Lifford Wine Agency 416-440-4101 or toll-free 1-877-272-1720 www.LiffordWine.com
2010 Winner - VINTAGES Portfolio Award of Excellence Serving the hospitality sector and private consumers in Ontario since 1985 with a focus on family owned and operated wineries that are equally as passionate about great wine as we are. Cakebread Cellars, Maison Louis Jadot, Felton Road, Felsina and Hollick, to name just a few.
CHATEAU, VILLA & ESTATE WINES
Profile Wine Group 416-598-0033 www.profilewinegroup.com
Like you, we are Passionate about quality wine. Our Passion. At your service. Please check out our web site for our entire list… it is full of high quality wines at every price point.
Rogers & Company, Villa and Estate Wines 416-961-2294 or toll free 1-866-202-9579 www.rogcowines.com
A carefully selected portfolio of fine wines from the Old and New Worlds: Caymus, Shafer, Duckhorn, Kenwood, Astrolabe, Tiefenbrunner, Altesino, Fontodi, Etablissements Moueix, Domaine Leflaive, Chave and many others.
Libations
By Stephen Beaumont
If you brew it, we will come On the eve Of toronto beer week, an Open letter tO Our brewers On this, the eve of the first-ever Toronto Beer Week, I thought it advisable for me to have a brief word with Ontario’s craft brewers. (That’s lower case craft brewers, meaning everyone, as opposed to the membership-base Ontario Craft Brewers Association.) So here it goes...
Dear Ontario craft brewers, First of all, I love you guys, I really do. I know it might not seem that way all the time, what with my not infrequently voiced criticisms and all, but truly I do. What I want, and I’m sure what you want, is a brighter future for us all, brewers and drinkers alike. When I’m asked to characterized the beer scene around these parts, I note that Ontario’s breweries are generally very good at producing established beer styles. By this I mean beers like the woefully underappreciated King Pilsner – really, we should treasure this excellent Bohemian-style lager – the spot-on Denison’s Weissbier, the lovely Black Oak Nut Brown Ale, the remarkably quaffable Granite Best Bitter Special and the marvellously refreshing Steam Whistle Pilsner, even if that last one is to my mind more a well-executed Bavarian-style helles than it is a proper pilsner. Basically, if a beer has a style in its name, Ontarians tend to do it well. The problem is that in producing these beers, you got us used to drinking variety rather than the same style all the time. And frankly, where expanding
that variety is concerned, we’re feeling a little let down these days. We understand your position, mind you. Ontarians are nothing if not a conservative lot. We know all about feeling comfortable in your wheelhouse and reluctant to venture too far afield. But listen, straying from the comfort zone is precisely what got us this far, and it’s the one sure way to further expand the craft beer drinking tribe, not to mention keep happy those of us who have long since been converted. Back when “beer” meant cold and fizzy and mostly sort of bland, craft brewers caught our attention by producing beers that were everything the major brands were not. It worked, and it will work again! You see, what was then extraordinary is today the norm, and being a conventional craft beer is no longer sufficient to turn heads. Which is not to say that yesterday’s Blue is today’s Tankhouse, but if you look at the craft brewing success stories of our neighbours to the south, you’ll notice that almost all of them produce a solid line of flagship beers supported by a headline-grabbing range of special releases, some of which merit both high prices and significant buzz, to the point that people even line up for their release. We need that kind of magic in our town: hoppy monsters; Belgian-inspired masterpieces; whisky barrel-aged wonders; Brett-influenced delights; and, please, an inspired fruit beer or three. The bars and restaurants want to pour them, we want to drink them, and believe me, we’re all willing to pay for them. In short, my beer-making friends, if you brew it, we will come. And we’ll bring others along. Promise. CB Cheers, S.
Hoist one! Stephen will be celebrating Toronto Beer Week with a series of events at various locations, including:
Stephen Beaumont has been following the local, national and
SeptemBer 19: beer brunch with beaumont, beerbistro, 18 king st. e.
international beer scenes for two
SeptemBer 20: Malt & Molluscs Monday, starfish oyster bed & Grill, 100 adelaide st. e.
decades and doesn’t buy the notion
SeptemBer 21: not always in Good taste – beer writers-in-the-round, C’est what, 67 Front st. e.
that toronto is either an immature or
SeptemBer 22: Malt Magic: the Marriage of beer and whisky, Monk’s table, 1276 Yonge st.
a small craft beer market. 25 years
Visit torontobeerweek.com for details.
of craft brewing and 2.5 million people has to count for something!
Harvest 2010
23
The ej
By Konrad Ejbich
LCBO profits are in the bag NOt satisfied with its mONOPOLy, the BOard takes ON The pRivaTe seCToR, tOO Sneaky buggers. Every decade or so, the brainiacs at the LCBO (I like to call it the KGBO for clarity of purpose) think they can pull a fast one on us, despite the fact that at the liquor monopoly nothing ever moves fast. It moves slowly, steadily and secretively. In the late ‘80s, despite protests, the monopoly began to sell corkscrews in its stores. That was the proverbial thin edge of the wedge. Slowly, a stream of additional accessories began to appear, including wine glasses, beer steins, books, a better-quality corkscrew, Guinness soccer shirts, icewine chocolates... When they kicked it up a notch by selling high-end Tuscan olive oil at Vintages, I lambasted them in a column in Eye Weekly (in January, 1993.) The minister responsible slapped a few wrists and ordered the products off store shelves and Tom Wilson, the director of Vintages at the time, hasn’t spoken to me since. Old habits die hard. Years went by and gift items began to show up again on KGBO shelves. This time, a store owner in Goderich, Ontario, protested that the liquor monopoly was cutting into her business. Sales of housewares, kitchen items, books, periodicals, linens, and all sorts of other goods through the 600-strong KGBO network of stores constituted unfair competition. Freelance writer David Menzies took up the torch in 2002 in Canadian Business magazine, and once again, the province lowered the boom on sales of virtually all non-alcoholic goods. They did permit the Board to continue to sell a few small items, such as corkscrews. Now, less than a decade later, the fox is back inside the henhouse. This time, it’s carrying more than 100 varieties of gift bags, boxes, buckets and baskets. LCBO president Bob Peter sells more sorts of gift bags in Ontario liquor stores today than he ever did when he was president of The Bay. The gift bag represents much more than a simple convenience for the customer. Two years ago, Ontarians spent an average of $8.30 for a bottle of wine on general list and $19.30 per bottle at Vintages. In September 2008, the global economic meltdown changed everything. Suddenly, strangers were tussling over scarce bottles of super-cheap FuZion, the $7.40 wonder wine. Today, the average sale has dropped to $8.18 per bottle on general list and $17.32 at Vintages. And the ripple effect has lasted longer than anyone expected. Grave news for provincial bean counters.
LCBO president Bob Peter sells more sorts of gift bags in Ontario liquor stores today than he ever did when he was president of The Bay. Slithering back into sales of gift bags has given the LCBO a big boost to the bottom line, in two ways. What’s obvious is that the Board sold $6 million in gift packaging and other non-mandated items last year alone. What’s less obvious is that every gift bag represents extra bottles sold as gifts. How exactly does encouraging us to buy booze to give to others fit in with the booze monopoly’s mandate? It doesn’t. It contravenes their mandate to control sales of alcohol, and they know it. The majority of Ontario drinkers, taxpayers and voters have a blind spot when it comes to the KGBO. They say they like the pretty stores and the “free” glossy magazine. (Don’t kid yourselves, we’re all paying for it.) They think they’re getting decent service. The reality is that the KGBO is using tax dollars to compete with private business, KONRAD EJBICH writes for whether it’s selling ice buckets, running publications and websites around the world, including cooking classes, leading wine tastings, Wine Spectator. The last hosting wine events or usurping advertisFriday of the month, he fields ing dollars that rightly belong to the questions from an adoring struggling Canadian magazine industry. public on CBC Radio. Follow That’s just wrong. CB him at twitter.com/winezone.
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CityBites
Szabo on Wine
By John Szabo MS
Wines for real people Head soutH to GeT value for money (for wine) I was recently invited to observe a focus group on wine, the kind you hear about in marketing reports. It was my first such experience. I was there to find out what people think about wine, what they want, how they choose. The participants were perfectly average wine consumers: regular drinkers with neither too much nor too little interest in wine. Real people. And their responses pretty much confirmed what the wine industry already knows. Wine is complicated for real people. It’s hard to describe. The LCBO shelves are overwhelming. When all else is equal, the prettiest label wins. More money gets you better wine. Wine is relaxing and stress reducing. It’s the most sophisticated of beverages. Wine is better with food than anything else. Wine is most often consumed at social gatherings, bringing friends together and often at mealtime. Real people spend about $12 to $18 a bottle for themselves, more when the bottle is “special.” Out of fear of the unknown, real people head to the same section, same shelf, same bottle— time after time. To venture beyond requires the endorsement of a trusted friend or somebody in the know. Sound familiar? If you’re a real person with a real job and a life and don’t have 20 spare hours a week to study wine arcana… you just want to drink good juice at a fair price and how hard is that? Then read on. The LCBO recently highlighted two of the world’s sources of great value wines: Southern France and Southern Italy. The specific regions are hardly household names, but I get a warm, fuzzy feeling when I think of the Mediterranean, so I’m already in a good mood when I think of these wines. They’re seriously food friendly, and they’re all between $12 and $18. I’ve hung around southern France and Italy and drank a lot and know the difference between, say, maccabeu and montepulciano, or Corbières and Copertino. So I hope you’ll trust me.
Wine From Southern France 2007 DOMAINE LES YEUSES LES ÉPICES SYRAH
that tastes a bit of bruised apple, wet hay and honey alongside toasty-yeasty character. #180323
Vin de Pays d’Oc 88 | $12.95 Northern
Rhône, watch out! At under $13, this Languedoc syrah has an incredible amount of syrah character: pure black pepper and cassis. #177584
WineS From Southern italy 2004 APOLLONIO COPERTINO ROSSO DOC 89 | $16.95 Abundantly ripe,
even jammy fruit and significant oak influence. Long finish, long on appeal. #23226 2008 GIUSTI PIERGIOVANNI LACRIMA DI MORRO D’ALBA DOC 89 | $17.95 The rare Lacrima di Morro d’Alba
grape yields wines with a deep colour and an unusual flavour profile that’s like a deep purple version of gewürztraminer. #180273 2008 MARCHETTI VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO DOC 88 | $12.95 This is one of my favorite regions to look to for great value, and verdicchio is Le Marche’s greatest contribution to Italian wine. #104869 2009 PALA CRABILIS I FIORI VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA DOC 88 | $13.95 A fresh and floral
expression of vermentino, with loads of ripe stone fruit like peach and apricot that’s highly reminiscent of good quality albariño. #52068 2007 RIVERA SALICE
2007 PERRIN & FILS LES CORNUDS
SALENTINO DOC 88 | $13.95
VINSOBRES AC
flavourful wine from those damned consistent Perrin brothers, with a nice mix of black fruit and savoury herbs. #566844
Ripe, spicy, savoury southern Salento wine here, with intriguing orange peel, cherries in eau-de-vie and old wood spice on the nose. #180232
AC Côtes du Roussillon 88 | $13.95
2007 CHÂTEAU DE SÉRAME RÉSERVE
2007 BISCEGLIA TERRE DI
A super-flavourful old vines cuvée from the wilder parts of the Roussillon. It’s as gentle as a sea breeze, with ripe stone fruit and sweet herbs like tarragon and anise. #175232
DU CHÂTEAU CORBIÈRES AC
VULCANO AGLIANICO DEL
87 | $15.95 A complete southern French,
VULTURE DOC 88 | $14.95
red with neither shortage nor excess of anything. #175216
This delivers character and sense of place at an attractive price. The angular tannins and tight acids won’t appeal to all, but the volcanic minerality from the slopes of Mount Vulture is unmistakable. #106302
2009 CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH VIEILLES
88 | $17.95 Another fine, balanced and
VIGNES GRENACHE BLANC/MARSANNE
2007 DOMAINE CROIX SAINTE EULALIE 2006 CHÂTEAU DE PENA
ESPÉRANTO SAINT-CHINIAN AC
AC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages
87 | $15.95 Savoury, earthy, spicy and
88 | $13.95 A full-bodied, succulent red,
wild herb scented; all in all a fun, grilled meat-friendly red. #178400
with plenty of beguiling savoury herbal notes and ripe black berry. Lingers like a Mediterranean sunset. #178392
2008 MURGO ETNA ROSSO JOHN SzABO MS is wine editor
DOMAINE J. LAURENS LE MOULIN BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX BRUT AC 88 | $16.95 A traditional-method sparkling
wine made from the local mauzac grape
of CityBites, buyer for the Terroni Group of Restaurants and reviewer for WineAlign.com (use code Szabo to sign up for free premium service).
DOP 87 | $13.95 I’m a huge fan of the reds from the pure volcanic slopes of Mt. Etna. This is a modest example that gives an idea of what the region is capable of. #180208 Harvest 2010
25
one last bite
By Signe Langford
Harvest time in Toronto By the time you read this, second Harvest will have handed out its six millionth pound of food this year, Just in the City of toronto.
Chew on this: 600 donors—restaurants, grocers, manufacturers, distributors—have given over 70 million pounds of food since 1985, the year Second Harvest was founded by Joan Clayton and Ina Andre. 200 recipients—social service agencies, kids’ breakfast and after-school programs, shelters, food banks, the charity’s culinary training program and more— gratefully accepted 15,000 meals every day in 2010. 40% of recipients are under the age of 18. 87% of the at-risk folks who graduate from one of four Harvest Kitchens find employment in foodservice. Second Harvest employs 20 office
Toronto Taste, Second Harvest’s annual
fund-raising event, netted $250,000 in 2010, guaranteeing another 500,000 meals for hungry Torontonians. It costs Second Harvest 50 cents to produce one meal.
26
CityBites
photos: Jeff Coulson
workers and 10 drivers, has seven trucks on the road seven days a week, and relies on 1400 volunteers.
A M AYA “ The Indian food Toronto has been waiting for...” Globe & Mail
Nutrition Facts Valeur nutritive
A M AYA
Serving Size Per 1 tbsp (15 ml) Portion pour 1 c à table (15 ml)
A M A YA
Amount Teneur
% Daily Value* % valeur quotidienne*
Calories / Calories 15 Fat / Lipides 0.1 g Saturated / saturés 0.1 g + Trans / trans 0.1 g Cholesterol / Cholestérol 0 mg Sodium / Sodium 105 mg Carbohydrate / Glucides 4 g Fibre / Firbres 0 g Sugars / Sucres 2 g Protein / Protéines 0.2 g Vitamin A / Vitamine A Vitamin C / Vitamine C Calcium / Calcium Iron / Fer
1%
1% 4% 1% 0%
2% 0% 0% 2%
Corporate and casual catering packages available. Call 416-322-0020 AMAYA th e In dIAn ro o M 170 1 B a y vi e w Ave . 416.322.3270 www.am a y a re st a u ra n t . c o m
A M AYA B r e A d B A r 3 3 0 5 Yo n g e S t . 4 1 6 .4 8 7 .1 1 0 0 w w w. a m a y a s br e a d ba r. c o m
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