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the
wine i ssue You know you want it…
Where to go, what to drink Perfect seafood wines Take the Ontario wine challenge (P.34)
Summer of Love! Spritzers and Rosé
Krysta Oben, Cowbell
Weapons of Wine
corkscrew gallery
Plus! Mangoes + Izakaya + Books + Coconut Milk + fruit wines
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From FROM the THE editor EDITOR
contents Spring 2012
OK, folks, another year goes by and we enter With this, what we like to call our “early” charity season flush and satedanother by the plethora summer edition, we celebrate Wine of fantastic establishments sprouting like Issue, whicheating is always a lot of fun to put lupins by the side of every road in this fair city. together because of all the wine drinking that’s
No. 42
We’re eating well,It’s ouralways chefs aare cooking involved, naturally. struggle towell, shrink all our ideas to them just a in. fewThis pages, our restaurants are down packing is because the world of wine is so vast and everall good. Unless you’re waiting in line outside changing… hmmm,Bestellen may it’s time to other launch the Grand Electric, or any justWineBites magazine…. opened or about-to-open establishment. Foodies
Or the next best on Twitter know where the buzz is, in fact it’s thing. How about becoming the tool of choice for planning a a website? Finally, night out. Monitor the lineups, the reaction to we’ve decided to nightly specials, even the mood of the maitre d’. go digital, and And Instagram shots of the daily soup make the our landing page fuelPlease the hype, and make us all hungry. isrounds, now live. It’satall good fun. So let’s just remember that visit citybites.ca this sign timeup of to year is a tough one for those less and hear
contents Spring 2012
No. 42
Ciao Wine Bar (p. 19)
The Wine Issue Features The Dudes: (p. 25). 17
Think Local, Drink Global Cowbell’s Krysta Oben talks wine. Plus, spritzers are hip!
fortunate. all do our part. For inspiration, from us viaLet’s email,
Twitter, Tumblr, etc. We’ll please read about three of be theworking city’s active food on our site summer, so come back kitchens (p.over 21),the as well the stellar work that the
often to seeRush howare we’re doing. boys from doing to help the world (p. 34).
16 Top Vegan Adventures Thelist vegetarian and vegan scene in Toronto is maturing, 20 VQA Sellers Wine greatest hits.
There’s much to •bedick@citybites.ca done. But there’s lots of Dick Snyder, Editor us to do it. @citybites $ICK 3NYDER %DITOR s dick@citybites.ca
18
Wine Drinking Guide Great places for a glass or bottle. Features Plus, Arron Barberian.
as chefs withBramble vision tune to their inner herbivore. By Kait Fowlie Plus, Linda and in wines to try now!
18 Wine Slow-Cook-A-Thon k wine Shehata (The Bowery, The provides 22 Weaponry TheTawfi city’s professionals show offBallroom) their corkscrews. slow-cooker tips and a killer Lamb Shoulder recipe.
24 Seafood Sippers Ten great wines to enjoy with your ocean fare. 21 Plus, Toronto’s Unsung Chefs Take a tour of three city soup kitchens, where Dr. George Soleas proud chefs are doing it right for their customers. By Carly Dunster
city bites magazine @citybites
26 Now! The definitive word on wine service. 24 Decant Festive Stuff Some killer gift items for your favourite food nut. 27 Wines Ontario’s gems. 26 Fruit Holiday Hints Step uphidden your usual roast, and crank up that fruit cake.
citybitestoronto city bites magazine
By Kate More
citybitestoronto
28
Sparklers and Sake Our resident sommeliers rate the best bubblies
Regular and sakes. Bites 5
Editor Editor Dick DickSnyder/dick@citybites.ca Snyder/dick@citybites.ca Art ArtDirector Director Craig CraigSinclair/craig@citybites.ca Sinclair/craig@citybites.ca Editorial EditorialAssistant Assistant Kait KaitFowlie Fowlie Wine WineEditor Editor John JohnSzabo Szabo Director Directorof ofVinous VinousAffairs Affairs Zoltan ZoltanSzabo Szabo Contributors Contributors Stephen StephenBeaumont, Beaumont,Greg GregBolton, Bolton,Andrew AndrewBrudz, Brudz, Dan Donovan, Konrad Maia Filar, Kait Fowlie, Pamela Cuthbert, DanEjbich, Donovan, Konrad Ejbich, Kait Arlene Fowlie, Hazzan Green, Sarah Hood,B.Alan McGinty, Sanober Motiwala, Arlene Hazzan Green,B.Sarah Hood, Kate More, Zoltan Szabo, Michael StephenPataran, Temkin John Szabo, Zoltan Szabo, Stephen Temkin Photography Ashtari, Ashley Capp, Photographyand andillustration illustration Leila Martin Beaulieu, George Fisher, Konrad Ejbich, AnnGundy, Gagno,Edward Alan McGinty, DickSnyder Snyder Ann Gagno, John Pond, Dick
Sr. Sr.Account AccountManager Manager Wendy WendyLyall LyallGardner/wendy@citybites.ca Gardner/wendy@citybites.ca Account AccountManager Manager Alexander AlexanderMcCarthy/alecmccarthy@live.ca McCarthy/alecmccarthy@live.ca Account AccountManager Manager John JohnWalker/johnmwalker@rogers.com Walker/johnmwalker@rogers.com Email Emailinfo@citybites.ca info@citybites.caor orvisit visitwww.citybites.ca www.citybites.ca Advertising AdvertisingInquiries Inquiriessales@citybites.ca sales@citybites.ca City CityBites BitesMedia MediaInc., Inc., 26 26Dalhousie DalhousieSt. St.Suite Suite200, 200, Toronto, Toronto,ON, ON,M5B M5B2A5, 2A5, 647-827-1705. 647-827-1705.City CityBites Bites isispublished publishedsix sixtimes times aayear yearby byCity CityBites Bites Media MediaInc. Inc.
Starters Ontario’s sommelier battle.
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Buying Guide Coconut milk.
12
Chef Q&A Ursa’s
6Regular Crumbs NewsBites for eaters
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12 13
Starters CNDon Tower chef Peter Out&About Don Izakaya. George is at the top of his game. 8 Humour Foodie headlines Crumbs Restaurant news 6 we’d like to see. and rumours. 9 Grow Take a pea break. 7 Out&About Bakerbots offers pastry to Bloorcourt. 10 Books Read ’em and eat.
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Publisher Publisher Paul PaulAlsop/paul@citybites.ca Alsop/paul@citybites.ca
photo: liberty group
Ingredients A visit to J-Town.
8 Purveyors Marc’s Mushrooms. The Experts 9 Living Head to Zoltan Szabo on 29 onHead the Veg the lure of Amarone. How to find a vegan wine. 10 Fishmongering The Gourmudgeon Some 30 gourmet 2012. The secretwishes world for of tilapia. 11
Flavours Winter is for Madeira.
Columns Jacob Sharkey Pearce.
Dining Out The cheese cave Ingredients Alphonso mango. phenomenon. 14 Dining Out Eating Japan. 14 Travel Where to eat in Maui. 15 Head to Head Rosé wines. 15 The Urban Farmer Greens from yourLast windowsill. 34 One Bite Ontario wine challenge. 31 Szabo on Wine Entertaining tips from John Szabo.
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The Ej Tasting tips with Konrad Ejbich. 31 The Gourmudgeon 33 Libationsbest A little cream, says Ontario’s chardonnay… Stephen Beaumont, is a good thing. 32 The Ej The cheapest wine One Bite Rush’s Geddy Lee 34 at theLast LCBO. and Alex Lifeson do it for the people. 33 Libations Dark and sultry summer drinks.
Cover: Capp/ashleycapp.com Cover: Ashley Cowbell lady Kaitie Krysta Oben at Cowbell Spring Spring 2012 2012
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the starters The CityBites Team Leila Ashtari Leila Ashtari spends a lot of time thinking about what she’s going to eat next, and the rest of the time thinking about what she’s going to wash it down with. Having spent more than half her life in restaurants, it seems only natural that she should be drawn to them as subjects for her work. She takes pictures of food, interior spaces, and all kinds of interesting people related to the food and wine industries. She’s at ashtariphoto.com. Leila photographed WINE WEAPONRY on p. 22.
Sanober Motiwala A recent escapee from a downtown
BOTTLE SERVICE: Lucie Trépanier of Atelier in Ottawa in the heat of battle.
photo: Shannon Hamilton
Sommelier Showdown
office tower, Sanober Motiwala now feeds her enthusiasm for food and mad science as a student in the professional baking and pastry
Bruce Wallner takes top honours By Alan McGinty at bi-annual competition
arts program at George Brown College. She
Name the correct appellation for half a dozen Burgundies, decant and serve a Barolo using the correct glassware, fix mistakes on a wine list, blind-taste and describe wines and spirits, and much more. All in front of an audience. Sixteen hopefuls for the title of Best Ontario Sommelier gathered for a showdown at The Fifth on Richmond St. last month and, after a written exam in the morning, four finalists moved on to the service segment in the afternoon. Organized by the Ontario branch of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS), the competition happens every two years. As the number of certified sommeliers grows, there’s more interest in raising the bar, so to speak. PR and Event Director Sara d’Amato said “this year’s competition attracted more people, and most were professionals this time.” The winner was Mideastro’s Bruce Wallner, one of only three Master Sommeliers in Canada, and he took a serious haul of prizes: trips to Napa, Argentina and Germany as well as dinners, lots of wine and a Riedel decanter. The other three finalists were Steve Robinson and Lucie Trépanier of Atelier in Ottawa, and Corey Ladouceur of Hockley Valley Resort. Wallner moves on to the Canada-wide competition in Halifax in September. Mastering service elements was key. The Barolo and sparkling wine table service challenges accounted for 70 percent of the score. In addition to knowing what to do and when, contestants had to engage with the “customers” and answer questions as they worked, the clock ticking all the while. There was also a table—with chef Jamie Kennedy— at which contestants had to provide wine pairing suggestions for an esoteric menu. Oddly enough, the winner almost didn’t compete. Bruce Wallner was on the board of CAPS and helped organize this year’s competition. He then decided to compete himself, so had to step down from the Board. “It was pretty ballsy,” said d’Amato. “I mean, if he didn’t at least get into the top four finalists, it’d look pretty bad.” CB
exploring Toronto’s zaniest food offerings.
is also a freelance researcher and writer. When not leavening bread, she can be found Reach her at sanober@alumni.utoronto.ca. She wrote NOW THAT’S A TASTY MANGO on p. 13.
Ashley Capp As a Toronto-based photographer, Ashley Capp has contributed to Canadian House and Home, Covet Garden, Style At Home, and Clean Eating magazine, to name a few. Her love of imagery began when she realized she could take something simple and make it extraordinary. Having studied photography, Ashley’s had the opportunity to work with some of the best in the business. Her photographic work combines her love of food and all things design. Follow her @ashleycapp and visit ashleycapp.com. Ashley photographed our cover.
Spring 2012
5
crumbs
By Kait Fowlie
... Bistro on Avenue (1678 Avenue Rd., 416-783-1928, thebistros.ca) is set to move in the next year. A relocation contest on their site will see that the winner gets a chicken wing dinner every day for a year. The North York staple has been serving well-loved specialty wings since 1984
News for eaters ... As of March 31, Anthony Rose will be replaced by Darren Glew as chef de cuisine at The Drake Hotel (1150 Queen St., 416-531-5042, thedrakehotel.ca). During his six-year term, Rose brought new life to
livingshangri-latoronto.com). The hotel’s grand opening will take place August 7
... New ramen spot Raijin (3 Gerrard St. E., 416-260-8885)
heads to Toronto with chef/owner Daiji Matsubara of Vancouver’s Kintaro and Motomachi Shokudo. The new restaurant will occupy the former Cr3asians BBQ restaurant space
... Another ramen joint,
Kinton Ramen (51 Baldwin St., 647-748-8900, kintonramen.com) opened last week. Do we smell a trend coming on? (Yes we do, please see p. 14)
... Toronto Pearson Airport announces plans to introduce
a new dining program backed by Food Network celebrity chefs Mark McEwan and Guy Rubino, along with five other local chefs, a brewer and sommelier. Travelling through Toronto will be a lot more luxurious when the program is complete in 2013
... Richard Henry
the Drake with the unique Dining Road Show series and his fierce
of Le Canard Mort and Le Rossignol opens a Mexican joint, Toucan
burgers. He’s hoping to open a place of his own in the west end in
Taco Bar (686 Queen St. E., 416-461-9663). The enchiladas, burritos,
the next year and, meantime, has established Rose and Sons, a culinary company
... New-style Hamilton food gets a place of its own
at Rapscallion Restaurant (61 Young St., Hamilton, 905-522-0088, rapscallionrestaurant.com) where patrons can expect some serious cured, salted, stuffed, wrapped and charred meat dishes. Hold your cravings— they’re only open on Sunday night
... The WORKS Gourmet Burger
Bistro (888 Danforth Ave., 647-748-4455, worksburger.com) has just opened. Owners Bruce Miller, Andy O’Brien and Zaki Zahur invited eTalk host Ben Mulroney to name a burger at their new spot. The menu
features 70 gourmet burgers and classic shakes ... After two-and-a-half
tacos and extensive tequila selection are inspired by Henry’s trips to Mexico
... Former Beaver owner Megan Whiten opens Camp
(244 Jane St., 647-346-2267), offering a housemade menu of panini, salads and brunch items. Rustic wood furniture and windowsill herb gardens make the esthetic match the name
... FARMHOUSE Tavern
(1627 Dupont St., 416-561-9114, farmhousetavern.tumblr.com) will open in June, serving rural Ontario-inspired fare and craft brews
... Meng Karbach and Linda Kung team up to create Salis Noodis Salad and Noodle Bar (1430 Yonge St., 416-920-8828, salisnoodis. com), a one-stop shop for fast and healthy noodle bowls and salads.
years as general manager and sommelier at Crush Wine Bar, Mark Moffatt is moving on to Shangri-La (180 University Ave., 416-599-0333,
6
CityBites
Email tips, opening soons and discoveries to info@citybites.ca.
OUT & ABOUT
By Andrew Brudz
Eat to the Beat
Enoteca Maialino Italiana Had enough rustic Italian? Well, the
A lively new izakaya joint serves up Japanese-style pub food and sake
newest arrival offers a Sicilian touch, along with formaggi, olive oils, truffles and notably a chef imported from the old country. The result is sublime,
The Story
The Japanese pub is finally here, so get used to it. “Izakayas” are famous for after-work nibbles and libation, and anyone who’s been to the wildly popular Guu on Church Street knows what this scene is all about. A relative newcomer, Don Don Izakaya is an endeavour that began three years ago, but construction delays meant it only opened its doors in January.
subtly complex and more than worth it. Try the arancini ($8), a take on the popular Sicilian street snack of deepfried rice and meat cones, and the beef short ribs ($26), cooked sous-vide for 48 hours. Formulaic modern-rustic
The Space
Architect Bennett Lo headed the transformation of a former second-floor Chinese restaurant at Dundas and Bay. The goal: to recreate the unmistakable izakaya vibe— dark and loud, fun and inviting. This is expressed via lots of rich woods and 20 giant sake kegs imported from Japan. Guests are asked to remove their shoes while sitting in the traditional horikotatsu seating.
décor and laid-back service round out
The Scene
This all-natural bakery offers vegan,
Guests are greeted with a hearty Irasshaimase! from the staff and a bang of the taiko drum. The taiko’s “don don” sound is partly responsible for Don Don’s name. It also means “More! More!” in Japanese. The crowd includes groups of friends and families, students from Ryerson and U of T, and employees popping in on their days off to grab a bite and chat with friends.
Don Don Izakaya 130 Dundas St. W. 416-492-5292 dondonizakaya.com
a casual, comfortable experience. 1688 Queen St. W., 416-551-5251, maialinoto.com, @MaialinoTO
Tori’s Bakeshop refined-sugar free versions of classic bakeshop treats as well as some creative confections. Cheddar chive scones, cinnamon buns and homemade chocolate bars are served alongside Merchants of Green Coffee espresso drinks. The cafe’s mod aesthetic is testament to owner Victoria Vaccher’s background in theatre and set design. 2188 Queen St. E., 647-350-6500, torisbakeshop.ca, @torisbakeshop
The Food
photo: dick snyder
MORE HOT EATS...
Chef Daisuke Izutsu created a menu of izakaya classics—with his own spin. Our favourite, the wara-yaki, is sashimi grilled and smoked on skewers over a dramatic hay fire. (Listen for the sound of the taiko whenever it’s ordered.) Don Don also boasts 100 varieties of sake, including its own Don Don Original Hot Hot sake, and Japanese cocktails.
Gourmet B1tches Street fare gets a sassy spin in this black-and-pink food truck and catering company. Shontelle Pinch and Bianka Matchett will offer healthier street eats with international dishes like Cuban pulled pork and Balinese chicken tostadas. Gluten-free and vegan options are equally as inspired. Prices from $3 to $12. Find them at gourmetb1tches.com and @gourmetb1tches
FLAME OUT: A visual feast at Don Don.
CityBites_Summer2012_1_CityBites 12-05-09 2:25 PM Page 1
By Kait Fowlie and Sanober Motiwala
Organic Leaders for 28 Years! Natural Food Market • 416.466.2129 • info@thebigcarrot.ca 348 Danforth Avenue • www.thebigcarrot.ca • Mon-Fri 9-9 Sat 9-8
Sun 11-6 Spring 2012
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humour
By Donald Twain
Foodie stories we’re dying to cover Blogger review declared wholly indecipherable Experts struggle to unlock meaning of key phrases “OMG OM NOM NOM”; “Ossington FTW”; “Changtastic” Pop-up restaurant launches inside existing pop-up restaurant Owners, public delight in hour-long lineups, paper plates, and “oh, we just ran out of that” New cafe lowers music volume to safe levels Promises quaint “conversation,” Bon Iver Amateur chef launches bourbon pork belly kimchi foie gras banh mi taco truck 14 dead, 286 injured in ensuing riot, Bixi pileup World supply of reclaimed barn wood critically low GTA restaurants fingered as key abusers; mason jars also on endangered list Lacking coherent theme, “Ahfuckit-licious” festival launches “It is what it is, just come out,” announces superlative-bereft PR flack Citing absurd demand, scientists announce new breed of self-pulling pork “Yes, yes, it’s a goddamn heritage breed,” offers exasperated lead researcher Entrée photographed Free world gains access to poorly composed, royalty-free photo of delightful slider trio Facebook acquires local food movement for $1 billion Zuckerberg: “Local is huge right now” Bacon praised Breathless Twitter user asks: “Is there anything #bacon can’t do?” Maple syrup inadvertently omitted from entree Sous chef dismissed in local, seasonal scandal “Signature cocktail” revealed to be generic Whisky Sour with cute name $17 price tag revealed as world’s laziest hoax
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CityBites
Grow
By Arlene Hazzan Green
Pea Break Easy to grow, delightful to eat Peas are great to grow in your own home garden not only because they are delicious, they are one of the first things you can plant in the season. Peas are cold weather hardy and can be directly sown in the ground 4 weeks before last frost. In Toronto, last frost is (was) May 9. There are basically two kinds of peas, shelling and snap. Snap peas are peas that can be eaten shell and all. Both kinds are available as bush type plants or vines. Both grow with little tendrils coming off the stems that will cling and climb up a trellis or netting. Find a sunny spot to plant your peas and make sure the soil is nice and fluffy. If it isn’t, mix in a healthy portion of a good, well-rotted, organic compost. I like using vermicompost (worm castings) but mushroom compost is good too. Most herbs and vegetables are great companions for peas except for onions, garlic and potatoes. The practice of “companion planting” can improve flavour, repel bad bugs and attract good bugs. Planting different plants together creates a natural and integrated pest management system so you won’t need to use chemicals. Your peas will be ready to harvest after about 70 days. Save your seeds for next year by letting a few pods dry on the vine. Visit the The Backyard Urban Farm Co. at bufco.ca.
13TH STREET WINERY 2012 EVENTS CALENDAR SAVE THE DATE Jun 23 - Street Fight II 13th Street Wine versus Mill Street Beer Jul 7 - Grapes of Wrath Warrior Run For Cancer Research Jul 20 to 22 - International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration Aug. 10,11,17 & 18 - Somewhereness Wine Passport Program Aug 25 - Second Annual Blues & BBQ Sep 21 & 22 - Handmade Market Dec 1 - Holiday Open House 13TH STREET WINERY 1776 FOURTH AVE. | ST. CATHARINES L2R 6P9 | 905-984-8463
13THSTREETWINERY.COM GROW YOUR OWN: Shell peas in a pod.
Spring 2012
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Books
10
By Kait Fowlie and Dick Snyder
Eat Raw, Eat Well
In Pursuit of Garlic
Brewed Awakening
Canadian Whiskey
By Douglas McNish
By Liz Primeau
By Joshua M. Bernstein
By Davin de Kergommeaux
By one of the foremost vegan/raw chefs in the world, this is the ultimate guide to raw food prep for both rookies and pros. Get the low-down on equipping a raw-food kitchen, techniques, terms and tips for transitioning to a raw food diet. His recipes, from blueberry scones to spaghetti Bolognese are both unique and accessible. With many comforting spins on the requisite green smoothie, McNish’s creativity really shines. (Robert Rose, $27.95)
This pungent bulb may not appeal to every palate, but its rich history has something for everyone. Gardening expert Liz Primeau offers a passionate exploration of the fragrant staple, including recipes and remedies, fun facts (kiwi as cure for garlic breath), barbeque tips through the ages, and insight from everyone from apothecarists to hash-brownie bakers. (Greystone, $19.95)
The “ultimate beer geek’s journal” offers a whirlwind investigation of craft beer, complete with glass rings and doodles. Starting with Bernstein’s love affair with Busch Light, it covers obscure trends, influential figures and global ingredients that have created a craft-beer renaissance. Bernstein includes pairing cheat sheets, terminology charts and his picks for best brews along the way. No Busch Light included. (Sterling Epicure, $29.95)
This book is about respect for Canadian whisky: history, quality (recent malaise in this regard duly noted) and current rekindled interest in the spirit and spirits of Canada. De Kergommeaux turns a journalist’s nose for deceit on the lore of our whisky while he sniffs out the best bottles. This “portable” companion is a great read and a trusty guide— with 100+ tasting notes—for the thirsty nationalist. (McClelland & Stewart, $24.99)
CityBites
Buying Guide
By Kait Fowlie
Coconut Milk Cooking with coconut milk won’t make your food taste like a Pina Colada. It will lend a clean, creamy flavour with a touch of earthy sweetness. A staple of Indian and Thai cooking, coconut milk is the go-to base for sticky rice, curries and soups. While commonly associated with heat-inducing flavours, it actually makes a stellar team with lemongrass, mango and pineapple. Spring is the perfect time to crack open a can and explore some fresher flavours.
Let’s Do Organic Creamed Coconut Like coconut milk powder, all you need to do is mix one part of this creamy paste with two parts water and stir, adjusting thickness as desired. Add to soups, gravies, casseroles and smoothies for a creamy kick. It’s 100% organic coconut with no filler. Must be stored at room temperature, as it tends to harden when cold. 200 g/
Grace Coconut Milk Powder
$3.29 at Herbs and Nutrition
Add about a tablespoon of this powder to a cup of warm water and—presto—you’ll have instant almost-fresh coconut milk. Made with Caribbean coconut milk solids, the flavour is on par with canned comrades, but like regular milk powder, the texture isn’t quite the same. It also contains some milk ingredients. 300 g/$3.07 at
(572 Bloor St., 647-348-8064).
Walmart (various locations).
Thai Kitchen Coconut Milk A popular and ubiquitous brand, this full-fat coconut milk can be found in the international/exotic aisle in most supermarkets. It makes for a rich base in savoury curries and stews. It’s also available in organic and lite, but the regular one wins for flavour. 414 mL/$2.79 at
Y&Y Brand Coconut Milk
Sobeys (various locations).
Table (various locations).
This coconut milk from Thailand is highest in fat content (17 g in ¼ cup), which makes it best for homemade confections and desserts, especially vegan baking. It’s also free of sulfites. 452 mL/3.99 at The Kitchen
REFRESHING SUMMER PATIO WINES Discover these great wines from South Africa
TWO OCEANS Sparkling Brut TWO OCEANS Sauvignon Blanc FLAT ROOF MANOR Pinot Grigio DURBANVILLE HILLS Sauvignon Blanc Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. | www.pmacanada.com
Spring 2012
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Chef Q&A
By Maia Filar
Jacob Sharkey Pearce | Ursa Backstory: The hottest opening so far this year, launched with no hype, no PR and no “event.” Just two brothers who actually give a damn.
Your food philosophy? I focus on lots of raw vegetables and preservation of nutrients all across the board. Our vegetables are compressed under a vacuum, which gives the feeling and texture of being blanched. They are effectively raw, just being warmed through. Every single thing across the board is made from scratch, which is really labour-intensive. We are making soymilk by fermenting the
bean and than coagulating it and making three or four different kinds of tofu. Everything is house-cultured and probiotic, from the crème fraîche to the buttermilk. How do you approach your menus? I set the ethos, the framework, the philosophy, and allow it to be a collaborative process from there. I’ll give my guidance of what I would like to see, and open it up. It’s a very creative process and the menu writing is really intense. It takes a long time and there are a lot of arguments but what seems to come out on the other end is really special, which is way more challenging because of the egos and personalities. But if you can work through that with patience, it can be a really fruitful process. And then we think about how to prepare the digestive system for the body to absorb things at the right time. We even structure our tasting menu so that we serve something
THE BROTHERS: Jacob and Lucas make ‘every single thing from scratch.’
prebiotic, than something probiotic, than raw and live before the main courses. What’s your next step? We are looking into starting a separate food-related company that deals with Native fisheries. We’d like to be hands-on in handling the product and processing certain lake fish, putting a greenhouse on the second storey of our building, continuing with the R&D kitchen and just not stopping for a second. And, of course, our upcoming spring Ursa and summer 924 Queen St. W. menu. It’s going 416-536-8963 info@ursa-restaurant.com to be sick. CB
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CityBites
Date: Apr 18, 2012
photo: Ann Gagno
It’s clear that brothers and Ursa co-owners Jacob and Lucas Sharkey Pearce are onto something. Coming out of the kitchens of Terroni (owner Cosimo Mammoliti is a silent partner), Petite Thuet and Centro, they spent the last six years learning everything there is to know about functional food development while feeding high-performance athletes great tasting nutrient-packed grub. We chatted with 29-yearold Jacob about food science, nutrition, better business practices and the hype.
Ingredients
By Sanober Motiwala
Now That’s a Tasty Mango
DELICIOUS IS IN SEASON.
You’ll never settle for supermarket varieties again Sweet. Supple. Intense. These may be words in the centerfold of a Harlequin romance, but for many South Asian Canadians they conjure up images of a perfectly ripe mango. There are over a thousand commercially available varieties of mango, some of which are year-round fixtures in supermarkets. But connoisseurs know that there is one variety you won’t find in your neighbourhood Loblaws. You won’t find it anywhere for that matter between late June and the following March. Crowned the king of mangoes, the Alphonso makes its highly anticipated journey from Mumbai to Toronto every spring. A handful of Indian ethnic grocery stores along Gerrard Street East carry them. BJ Supermarket’s Jujar Jajj (JJ to you) sells about 30 cases a week starting in April. This year, the price for a 12-pack is running $20 to $25. JJ’s customers are “mostly Indians looking for a taste of back home, but also others who are interested in trying them out.” What makes the Alphonso so special? A dating expert would know: Anita Dharamshi, founder of South Asian dating website TwoMangoes.com, says it’s simply “the sweetest and How to Eat juiciest of mangoes.” The an Alphonso Alphonso’s sweet smell is Throw on a ratty T-shirt. matched by its taste, with bright yellow-orange flesh Cut the mango into slices and none of the stringy and scrape the flesh off fibres or tartness charactereach one directly into your istic of some lesser examples. mouth using your teeth, Factor in the brevity of ensuring minimal waste Alphonso season (about of juice and flesh. Finish eight weeks between April by grabbing the seed with and June) and its short (oneboth hands and sucking week) shelf life and one the remaining flesh off, begins to understand the maneuvering so the entire fruit’s fanatical following. CB surface area is explored.
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®
1000 TASTES OF TORONTO™
June 9–10 | The Distillery Historic District During Luminato’s opening weekend, the city’s top restaurants and best chefs take to the streets and let their imaginations run wild for President’s Choice® 1000 Tastes of Toronto™, an annual Festival highlight with every culinary delight priced at just $5. Presenting Partner:
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TORONTO CARRETILLA INITIATIVE June 9–17 | Various Locations As artist Rainer Prohaska disperses mobile kitchens throughout the city and assembles them into large sculptures, the public is invited to collectively prepare, and partake in, a meal. On June 9 and 10, the kitchens will be assembled to create a communal meal alongside the array of President’s Choice® 1000 Tastes of Toronto™ food stations.
Tickets: 416-368-4TIX (4849) or luminato.com Visit luminato.com for the complete Festival schedule
photo: Sanober Motiwala
JUNE 8–17, 2012 luminato.com
MANGO KING: The rare, tempting and elusive Alphonso.
Spring 2012
13
Dining Out
By Michael Pataran
When Japan Comes to Town Toronto plays catch up, and does it pretty well
14
CityBites
BEYOND SUSHI: The complete Japanese restaurant and pub experience includes great snacks and lots of sake.
arrival to the party, opening up just a few months ago at Dundas and Bay. The biggest izakaya news is that Nejibee Izakaya is poised strike, backed by 30 locations in Tokyo alone, with an opening this June on Wellesley west of Yonge. They have supposedly scouted all the North American izakaya scenes and find Toronto the most vibrant. Kingyo and Hapa (the other Vancouver-based izakayas) are currently scouting Toronto locations. Ramen noodle houses are also exploding onto the scene with both Santouka ramen (location TBD) and Kinton ramen (Baldwin Street) opening any day. The greatly anticipated Momofuku (with a ramen menu) is opening in August at the Shangri-La under the (hopefully) watchful eye of New Yorkbased but global-bound David Chang. Ajisen ramen (with three locations in the GTA) and
Kampai Toronto Festival of Sake
On May 31, The Distillery hosts Canada’s largest sake festival with more than 100 sakes from Japanese and North American breweries. Fermenting Cellar, The Distillery District, 55 Mill St., $75, kampaitoronto.com
Kenzo (which actually makes its own noodles in-house; five locations in GTA) are the current
veterans of the ramen scene. As for the sake scene, I’m excited by Izumi— “The Ontario Spring Water Sake Company”— at the Distillery. Izumi began operations in 2011 under the guidance of master sake toji brewer Yoshiko Takahashi. Founded, owned
and operated by Ken Valvur, Izumi produces the freshest sake west of Mt. Fuji and specializes in the production of nama muroka sake— which is unpasteurized and unfiltered. It offers up the cleanest, freshest tasting, vibrant sake one can sip—a true treasure to have in our (or any) city. CB
photo: Jay Scaife
Five years ago I did a piece for this magazine about what was, at the time, a slowly trending Japanese food and sake scene in Toronto. I never quite understood what was taking Toronto so long to catch on to what other cities across North America knew full well: that Japanese cuisine is not based on the dream of sushi alone, and has so much more to offer. Soon after, I traded in the concrete landscape and slush-filled winter streets for the tropical palms and pristine blue waters of the Caribbean. I returned this winter to find that the Japanese culinary landscape has permeated mainstream food culture here—finally—as it has in many major urban centres from New York to L.A. We are of course honoured to have Kaiseki Hashimoto within our midst, serving reverent and beautifully authentic kaiseki meals at the Japanese Cultural Centre, where you must reserve weeks in advance for a sublime $300per-person eight-course tasting experience. And yes, we have sushi greats in Hiro and Kaji… but sushi is as inclusive of what Japanese cuisine is as pizza is to Italian food. It’s a pinky finger on the culinary body of Japan. Before returning to Toronto I spent three months in Vancouver and was awestruck by the dominant influences that Japanese culinary culture has on the culinary scene. Masa Shirokisan (artisan sake maker) is making sake from his boutique kura (brewery) on Granville Island and is in the experimental stages of growing his own rice in the Frasier Valley. My biggest elation was to discover the west coast’s great izakayas. These are raucus Japangese sake pubs with great snacks. From packed ramen shops to standing-room-only izakayas, and from smoky yakitori bars to aromatic robata eateries, Vancouver was looking pretty damn good (too bad about the weather). Back in Toronto, I’d heard from friends that many “things Japan” have been evolving here. To my pleasant surprise we now have a handful of izakayas, with more on the way. Vancouver chain Guu has two locations, with a third coming soon. Fin (55 Eglinton Ave. East), Koyoi (2 Irwin Ave.), Kokoni Izakaya (459 Church St.), Izakaya Ju (Steeles and Woodbine— and the best yakitori, by the way) have all made way for Don Don Izakaya,the latest
Head to head
By Zoltan Szabo | @zoltanszabo
Through rosé-coloured glasses Styles vary, but the love for rosé lingers on CHARMING
SERIOUS
REMARKABLE
This is a refined and elegant sparkler, with bright red berry fruit and floral aromas and underlying brioche and mineral nuances. Winery only
Electrifying cottoncandy colour, with black raspberry and dried flowers nuances; fuller style with a tiny amount of tannins. VINTAGES 719062
Red cherry-berry, stone fruit and orchard blossoms, vigorous acids and silksoft tannins. VINTAGES 172643
PRETTY
DELICIOUS
Soft, lingerie pink bouquet of red cherries, strawberry cream and roses; juicy and crisp with a long red apple fruit-punch finish. VINTAGES 168237
Primarily pinot noir with a bit of malbec and viognier, fruit comes from organically farmed estate vineyard, with lifted and very pretty aromatics. A delicious wine. Winery only
2008 Rosé Méthode Classique Benjamin Bridge Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia | $44.99
2011 Rosé Réserve, Perrin Cotes du Rhone, France | $15.95
2011 Rosé Sketches of Niagara, Tawse Niagara Peninsula | $15.95
benjaminbridge.com
SUCCULENT
2011 Rosé Re-Think Pink, Joie Farm Okanagan Valley, B.C. | $27.95
Raspberries and orange zest notes, light and lively with refreshing acidity and very good length. liffordwine.com
2011 Pinot Noir Rosé Trocken, Winzergenossenschaft Königschaffhausen Baden, Germany | $11.95
2011 Rosé Locust Lane Vineyard, Hidden Bench Niagara Peninsula | $20
hiddenbench.com
bernardin ad city bites_Layout 1 12-05-03 9:48 AM Page 1
Strawberry Wine Jelly 2 -1/2 cups (625 ml) white wine 1 cup (250 ml) sliced strawberries or 1 cup (250 ml) raspberries 3- 1/2 cups (875 ml) granulated sugar 1/4 tsp (1 ml) butter or margarine, optional 1 pouch (85 ml) BERNARDIN® Liquid Pectin • Place 6 clean 125 ml or 6 clean 250 ml mason jars on a rack in a boiling water canner; cover jars with water and heat to a simmer (180°F/82°C). Set screw bands aside. Heat SNAP LID® sealing discs in hot water, not boiling (180°F/82°C). Keep jars and sealing discs hot until ready to use. • Combine berries & wine; crush berries & pour into dampened jelly bag suspended over a container. Let juice drip undisturbed, at least 2 hours or overnight. Measure 2 1/2 cups (625 ml) juice into large, deep stainless steel saucepan. Stir in all the sugar plus 1/4 tsp (1 ml) butter or margarine to reduce foaming, if desired. • Over high heat, bring mixture to a full rolling boil that cannot be stirred down. Add liquid pectin, squeezing entire contents from pouch. Boil hard 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and quickly skim off foam, if necessary. • For full recipe instructions to please visit www.bernardin.ca
Visit our website at www.bernardin.ca for more great recipes and ideas. Spring 2012
15
the
Wine Issue Our annual highly subjective guide to the enjoyment of wine PROFILE IN WINE
Thinking local, drinking global Expressing the joys of wine to her customers makes Krysta Oben happy
summer refresher
Krysta Oben brings a refreshingly open “wine attitude” to the neighbourhood favourite Cowbell, where a small but intriguing list of carefully chosen local and global bottles work in concert with Mark Cutrara’s fiercely local and seasonal cuisine. Here’s how she does it. How long have you been at Cowbell? I started working as a hostess when I was 18 or so. I’ve been at Cowbell for a little more than a year. I worked with my friend Nathan Isberg at the Atlantic before this (and at Czehoski and Coca before) and collaborated with him on the wine list there. And I moonlight a day or two a week at the lovely Chantecler, down the street with my boys Jonny and Jacob. I collaborate with Mark Cutrara, [Cowbell] owner, on the wine list. We usually have agents pop by for tastings a couple of times a week, and I slip out of work when there’s an interesting tasting in the city.
By John Szabo, MS
Spritz Off! Oft-maligned by serious wine people today, consider that the ancient Greeks thought it barbaric to drink straight wine without a little watering down. The mixture of sparkling water and wine is the quintessential summer patio drink, at once refreshing, hydrating (well, sort of) and ultra-versatile, like a spontaneous fiesta in your mouth. Use any low-mineral bubbly water and inexpensive but aromatic whites. A ration of 1:1 is about right. Here are some DRINKING BUDDY: Cowbell’s Krysta Oben.
quality-endorsed cheap-andeasy spritzer bases, all available
photo: Ashley Capp
When did you first taste wine and go “wow”? I had tried lots of wines when I was young, but the first time I lost my shit was when I tried Salon champagne for the first time. I forget what vintage it was, but it was almost as old as me. What do you look for in a wine? When I taste a wine at work, I think about the menu. It changes a little bit every day, but when you take into consideration what produce is coming into season, it gives me a clue about what sort of wine I should be ordering. Like right now I’m thinking about rosés, lighter-bodied reds, Ontario whites. And when Mark and I have tastings, we look to buy lots of Cowbell’s wine from family-run wineries, with natural or organic or biodynamic farming practices. For personal consumption, I look for something interesting. I prefer lighter-alcohol wines over super boozy fruit bombs, I suppose, but I’m down to try anything intriguing.
What’s your favourite wine region/style right now? This question troubles me! Sparkling wine and rieslings are my BFFs, without a doubt. I can never resist ordering rosé, no matter what season, and have become obsessed with orange wine too. As I write this I’m drinking Stanners ’10 Pinot Gris from Prince Edward County, which is a gorgeous apricot colour.
at your friendly LCBO: 2011 Dunavar Muscat Hungary | $7.95 LCBO 565812 2010 Citrà Pinot Grigio ‘Osco’ Italy | $8 LCBO 17483
Name three (or five) producers that excite you. • The Old Third (Prince Edward County) • Organized Crime and 13th Street (Niagara) • Emilio Bulfon (Friuli) • Tissot, Pierre & Catherine Breton, Texier, Fleury (France) • Nikolaihof, Loimer, Sattlerhof (Austria) • Kir-Yianni (Greece) And anything my friend Jeff Connell of Woodlot introduces me to. His taste is wild and intriguing, and I have loved and thought about everything he has ever poured for me.
2011 La Puerta Torrontes Argentina | $8.95 LCBO 197970 2011 Boutari Mantinia Moscophilero Greece | $11.95 LCBO 172387 2010 Weingut Müller Yonder Velt Grüner Veltliner Austria | $12.85 LCBO 275131 Spring 2012
17
Wine bars By Alan McGinty
The CityBites Wine A highly subjective list of favourite spots for a glass or a bottle
Drinking Guide CHEAP & CHEERFUL
Ciao Wine Bar
Crush Wine Bar
Mavrik Wine Bar
This huge and lively Yorkville hotspot has the upbeat vibe you’d expect from nightclub owners Liberty Group. Multiple levels include a rustic “cellar” and a slick main floor with lots of pretty people—romantic dates, gal pals, etc. Full menu of well-priced Italian fare—try the risotto—and over 30 wines by the glass with solid Italian regional representation.
A longstanding favourite, Crush delivers a wide and deep list, great food (chef Trista Sheen is a Top Chef Canada contender) and frequent deals on corkage. Choose from flights of three wines or over 80 wines by the glass, from classics to emerging regions. Cool King West crowd, and a pretty nice patio.
Formerly the restaurant San, this is doubtless one of the few places in town serving Korean tacos (delicious!). Try the featured flight of three wines listed on the chalkboard or go more offbeat with a gruner veltliner, zweigelt or negroamaro. Over two dozen by the glass, grouped by style. Very hands-on owners. The crowd skews younger and girl groups seem to dominate.
133 Yorkville Ave., 416-925-2143,
@CrushWineBarTO
ciaowinebar.com,
455 King St. W., 416-977-1234, crushwinebar.com,
YOUNG VINES: Girl groups are attracted to Mavrik’s featured flights.
676 Queen St. W., 416-214-9429, mavrikbar.com,
@Liberty Group
@MavrikWineBar
Cava
Midfield Wine Bar and Tavern
Plenty of bubbly at this tapas bar, plus 16 wines by the glass… and where else can you choose from 20 sherries? Chef Chris McDonald delivers creative tapas for group sharing, but quite a bit pricier than in Spain. Great Spanish regional wine selection and plenty else too, including lots of dessert wines. Buzzy atmosphere in a quirky little space in an indooroutdoor shopping centre. 1560 Yonge St., 416-979-9918,
Relaxed yet hip, this new addition to the Dundas West scene takes “wine bar” seriously. The snacks are delicious (oysters, charcuterie, cheeses) but don’t come for mains. Christopher Sealy and Giuseppe Anile have two dozen or so wines by the glass with a focus on lesserknown European regional wines. Cool crowd, great vibe, great music, very urban—right down to the bars on the windows. And it’s cash only.
cavarestaurant.com, @CavaChef
1434 Dundas St. W., 647-3457005, @christophesealy
SHERRY DARLING: Cava’s Chris McDonald loves his sherry.
18
CityBites
CIAO BELLA: 30 wines by the glass and a rustic cellar at Ciao.
OFF BEAT: Midfield means business.
photos: (left) Per Kristiansen ; (middle) liberty group
BY THE GLASS
WHAT AM I DRINKING? Arron Barberian Restaurateur, Barberian’s Steakhouse
EXPENSE ACCOUNT Canoe
Sommelier Will Predhomme keeps the wine list moving at this sleek rendezvous. Plenty of Canadian, including Canoebranded Riesling by Cave Spring and there’s unusual selections too: try the Falernia Syrah from northern Chile. “New World does Old World,” says Will. Amazing views, cool lounge-y music and suits celebrating deals done. The food’s pricey, but by the glass runs a fair $10-18. 66 Wellington St. W., 416-3640054, oliverbonacini.com/Canoe, photo & text: Konrad Ejbich
@SommWillPred
Stock Restaurant
“I’m drinking Chave “Mon Coeur” Côtes du Rhône 2009. It’s a super value and one of the shining lights on our current wine list. It’s the perfect steakhouse wine and it’s only $67 here at the restaurant.”
photo (top right): Allison Woo
DONE DEAL: Lots of Canadian options, and global respect, at Canoe.
E11even
at Trump Toronto
In the gleaming world of Maple Leaf Square, E11even attracts gleaming young professionals. And not only does MW Jennifer Huether oversee the list, there are three sommeliers on staff. Peruse their selections on an iPad. Thirty-two wines by the glass from an Enomatic system and samples are free if you’re not sure about the aglianico, pecorino or torrontes. Tons of Italian, French and California among the hundreds of bottle choices. Huge patio with sofas (and heaters).
The curious appeal of The Donald: despite its Bay Street location, Stock attracts more than the business-suit brigade. There’s great service, OTT décor, high ceilings and assorted rich and beautiful people, plus tourists, on the 31st floor spread, which will have an outdoor terrace soon. Well-chosen list by CityBites columnist John Szabo—Posip from Croatia anyone?—and 1,000+ bottles on the “wine wall”. Small but tasty menu. Bring extra money.
15 York St., 416-815-1111,
stockrestaurant.com,
e11even.ca, @e11evenToronto
@STOCKToronto
325 Bay St., 416-637-5550,
SNACK ATTACK: Keep your bill in the two digits at Swirl.
Swirl
The look is country kitsch, and lively groups and local couples show up for snacks in mini mason jars (duck rillettes or marinated goat cheese) and wines from $6 to $11 per glass.
Limited selection, but some nice “discovery” wines like a lively grillo from Sicily and a pinot noir from Patagonia. 946 1/2 Queen St. E., 647-351-5453, swirltoronto.com, @swirlwinebar
KNOW THY MASTER: Canada’s only female Master of Wine runs the show at E11even.
Spring 2012
19
BEST SELLERS
NEW FLAVOURS
By Konrad Ejbich
The People’s VQA A few top-selling labels from Toronto wine lists There was a time when a restaurant wouldn’t list a local wine and, if it did, no one would buy it. Thankfully, those days are behind us. Toronto wine lists are featuring more space devoted to local producers. Tourists are hearing positive things about Ontario wines and are willing to give them a try. And locals are waving the flag in greater numbers every day. To gauge the taste “of the people,” we asked sommeliers in five busy Toronto dining spots to tell us about their hottest selling local labels.
By Alan McGinty
Try These Wines AUSTRALIA MYTH: Aussie shirazes are massive fruit bombs, full-bodied enough to bludgeon all but the bloodiest steak. FACT: With hundreds of producers and some cooler climes, Australia delivers a wide range of styles. Indeed, you can find nuance, complexity and, dare we say it, style! THE WINE: Barossa Valley Estate
WHO: Peter Boyd, sommelier since 1993;
WHO: Courtney Henderson, sommelier since 2005
Moculta Shiraz 2007 ($24.95,
Grand Winner, 2011 Wine Tasting Challenge
WHERE: Food and beverage manager/somme-
LCBO #263707) delivers a northern-
WHERE: Sommelier at Scaramouche Restaurant,
Rhone-ish nose of black pepper over
Pasta Bar & Grill WHAT: Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine “Late Disgorged” Brut, 2002 [Niagara Peninsula]
lier at the Art Gallery of Ontario WHAT: 2008 Le Clos Jordanne “Village Reserve” Pinot Noir and 2009 Chardonnay [Niagara Peninsula]
PRICE: $80/bottle
PRICE: $55/bottle, $14/glass
WHY?: “It’s the only Canadian vintage bubbly with so much age and depth. Pretty well anytime we point it out on the wine list, it sells.”
WHY?: “These are our house wines. There’s great marketing behind the brand, the packaging is stunning, and the wine delivers.”
lots of ripe red fruit and a bit of smoke too. Balance and complexity give it a suave Old World feel. FRANCE MYTH: Beaujolais is a bubblegum wine—light with no complexity. FACT: Beaujolais is definitely “serious.” Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie and Morgon are among the top
WHAT AM I DRINKING? Dr. Linda Bramble Professor, Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute, Brock University
WHO: Mark Moffat, sommelier since 2001 WHERE: GM at Crush Wine Bar WHAT: 2007 Lailey Vineyards Syrah [Niagara River] PRICE: $60/bottle, $15/glass
tier… and well priced. THE WINE: Georges Dubouef
Mont Chavy Morgon 2010 ($17.95, LCBO #276477) has a
WHY?: “It meets all expectations and the price
typical ripe cherry/strawberry nose,
point is right for such a good wine. It’s the closest thing you can get to Northern Rhône.”
It’s fresh and dry, with surprisingly
but with an alluring darker note. bold tannins adding heft. GREECE
WHO: Taylor Thompson, sommelier since 2001;
Grand Winner, 2008 Wine Tasting Challenge WHERE: Wine director at Ritz-Carlton WHAT: 2008 Daniel Lenko “Old Vines” Chardonnay [Beamsville Bench] PRICE: $92/bottle, $23/glass WHY?: “I can sell it to people who love Burgunphoto & text: Konrad Ejbich
dy because it has all that minerality and depth, and I can sell it to anyone who likes California chardonnay because it’s so rich and full bodied.”
able, the wines cheap and thin. FACT: How dare you!? Greek wines combine fierce indigenous varieties and mind-boggling value. THE WINE: Surprising elegance for the price, Thalia White 2010 ($9.95 LCBO #273490) tempers the razor sharpness of sauvignon blanc with the delicate spice of the velvety native vilana. ITALY
WHO: Jasmine Black, sommelier since 2010 WHERE: Sommelier and beverage manager at
“I’m drinking Sperling Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay 2009. Most people know Ann [Sperling] as the winemaker at Ontario’s biodynamic winery Southbrook, but this wine is from here home vineyard in the Okanagan Valley. It blew me away the first time I tasted it.” 20
MYTH: The grapes are unpronounce-
CityBites
REDS Bistro & Wine Bar WHAT: 2008 A Foreign Affair Riesling [Niagara Peninsula]
MYTH: Super Tuscans—blends of cab sauv, merlot, etc., with local sangiovese—are crazy expensive. FACT: Look for IGT Toscana on the label—you’ll get global blends of great quality at a realistic price.
PRICE: $58/bottle, $16/glass
THE WINE: Brancaia Tre 2009
WHY?: “We have a great training program here
($22.95, LCBO #164715) has a fresh
and all our staff have tasted the wine and know the story of Len (Crispino) and his passion for appasimento wines. This wine is especially great because we do a lot of rich, salty and spicy things that go well with riesling.”
nose with lots of ripe berry fruit and red licorice notes. It’s super smooth, with ripe cherry fruit and chocolate hints. Terrific balance with the tannins and acidity.
THINKING PINOT GRIGIO, THINK AGAIN
Moschofilero BY
Available at your local LCBO store.
PROJECT FUNDED BY THE EUROPEAN UNION AND GREEK GOVERNMENT
www.kolonakigroup.com
Wine Weaponry How the pros open a bottle
steven sousa | Sommelier
will Predhomme | canoe 22
CityBites
Krysta Oben | cowbell
peter bodnar rod | Scaramouche
zoltan szabo | Sommelier
anne Martin | Consultant
lindsey groves | terroni
ben Hardy | pangaea
sara d’Amato | winealign.ca
christopher sealy | Midfield
john szabo | stock
Adam Hijazi | george brown
jimson Bienenstock | royal york Spring 2012
23
WHAT AM I DRINKING? Dr George Soleas Senior Vice President, Logistics & Quality Assurance, LCBO
GREAT MATCHES
By John Szabo, MS
photo & text: Konrad Ejbich
Perfect Seafood Wines Challenge your seafood platter with these bold beauties Here are ten foolproof, full-flavoured, fragrant, fabulous whites for gulping alongside plates of oysters, mussels, scallops, shrimps, lobsters, crabs and anything else that comes from the sea wrapped in its own armor. 2007 Studert Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany | $17.95 By the time you read
this, I’ll have probably emptied the LCBO shelves of this amazing riesling. It absolutely screams the peach-slathered slate flavours of the Mosel. (LCBO 114777) 2009 Henry Of Pelham Reserve Off Dry Riesling Niagara Peninsula | $15.95 A terrific ’09
riesling, full of crackling green fruit and intense stony-minerality, with deceptive weight and power. The pinch of residual sugar is just right to fill in the gaps. (LCBO 557165)
2010 Bründlmayer Kamptaler Terrassen Grüner Veltliner Austria | $19.95 Classically styled,
succulent, zesty grüner from a reliable name. Citrus, green apple, green herb, white pepper and wet chalk minerality sit on a light and relatively tight frame. (LCBO 979708) 2010 Muralhas De Monção Vinho Verde Portugal | $14.95 Fragrant, with lovely
fragrant, floral, very mineral; lean and svelte, bright and fresh on the palate, with lingering finish —an archetype. (Lifford)
white flower, citrus blossom, grapefruit and sweet green herb nose; dry, lightbodied, crisp and flavourful, lingering finish. (LCBO 80374)
2010 Tawse Sketches Of Niagara Chardonnay Niagara | $19.95 Clean and bright, with
2011 Quintay Q Sauvignon Blanc Chile | $14.95 Bright, tight, tart lemon,
2010 Domaine des Cognettes Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Loire Valley, France | $14.55 Serving
instructions: chill, open, pour, drink, don’t contemplate. This is muscadet: fresh, nervy, like a squeeze of lemon on your tongue (and food). (Le Caviste)
CityBites
coast, this Txacoli (pronounced ‘CHA-koli) is all green apple and lemon-lime, with a slight spritz on the palate and electrifying acidity. (LCBO 240333)
2010 Bernard Defaix Chablis France | $21.95 Really pretty, open,
modest, well-integrated wood influence and lively green apple, lemon-citrus and apple blossom flavours. (LCBO 89037)
24
2009 Gurrutxaga Txakoli Spain | $18.95 From Spain’s northern
green pepper and pink grapefruit flavours; crisp and dry on the palate, crafted in a clean, vibrant, modern style. For fans of exuberant sauvignon from all cool corners of the new world. (LCBO 276493) 2010 Zenato Lugana Di San Benedetto Italy | $13.95 Another refined, elegant,
balanced and flavourful example of Zenato’s Lugana, one of the more consistently successful wines in their range. Acids are bright and lively, palate crisp and dry, and flavour intensity and length well above the norm at this price. (LCBO 707158)
illustration: 123rf.com
“Obviously, I don’t drink at work, but this weekend I’ll be drinking a nice Greek red, Ktima Tselepos Agiorgitiko Nemea “Driopi” 2007, with some roast lamb. We’re offering a larger selection of Greek wines as consumers discover their good value.”
Spring Fling!
[
Since opening our cellar doors in 1997, we’ve been called a lot of things: bold, innovative, gutsy, obsessive, quirky, unique – even culty, and surely a few things unfit to print. Yet our vision has never wavered and the recognition we’ve earned over the years is a testament to the importance of sticking to your grapes. Cheers!
We love it when folks pay us a visit! Join us this spring at the winery for relaxed and enlightening tastings, and scrumptious weekend lunches served up fresh on the deck. We’re open daily 10 - 6 pm.
Can’t make it to the winery? No sweat! You can find us at your local LCBO.
[
Serious wines from an irreverent bunch. Order online for delivery anywhere in Ontario! creeksidewine.com
Jordan, Ontario, Canada, Earth •
CEW
lessons
By John Szabo MS
Improve or Destroy? The final definitive word on decanting and related activities The methodology We selected two bottles each of five robust, young red wines generally considered candidates for decanting, along with a panel of pro tasters. Each wine was poured in four ways: • From the freshly opened bottle • From the freshly opened bottle through the Vinaire aerating device • From the freshly opened bottle into a blender, blended for 10 seconds, then served • From a decanter prepared one hour ahead of the tasting Thus, four samples of the identical wine were served, in randomized order. Since the contention surrounds “opening up” aromas, and “softening” texture, panelists were asked to rank the wines on these two parameters only. The most aromatic sample in each flight scored first place, the least, fourth place. Similarly, the smoothest texture took first, the most astringent, fourth. And so on through all five wines. In the end results were tallied, and while there was discrepancy amongst judges on the rankings in each flight, the overall findings are starkly clear.
2008 Finca Decero Malbec Remolinos Vineyards Mendoza, Argentina | $23.95
A deep, ripe, dark fruit-scented malbec with blueberry compote, fig and blackberry jam and sweet toasty oak flavour. Big, velvety tannins; bold and chest warming. (Lifford) 2006 Castelgiacondo Brunello di Montalcino Tuscany, Italy | $49.95
A ripe, elegant, modern-style Brunello, clean and high-toned, with plenty of violet, cherry, cherry blossom and cinnamon notes. Silky-firm texture, long finish. (Lifford) 2008 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra, Australia | $24.95
The results
Ripe and rich, but always balanced
The blender kills wine. The blended sample finished last overall by a good margin, and performed especially badly on texture, hardening up the wine. • The Vinaire tied the blender in destroying aromatics, and while it fared a little better on texture, it still finished in third place overall. • The sample poured fresh from the bottle was ranked second in both aroma and texture. • The uncontested, near-universal top sample in each flight was the pre-decanted version, with a notable lead over all others in aromatic enhancement.
and elegant, this archetypical
•
The conclusions
• • •
BLENDER SURRENDER: Good for beach drinks, not wine.
The Wines
Keep wine away from blenders! Save money and scrap the gadgets. Get organized and decant big reds an hour ahead. • If you’re not organized, don’t worry. Pour your robust red straight from the bottle, and it’ll be very nearly as good.
Coonawarra cabernet is firm, blackberry and cassis-flavoured, with superb length. (Treasury) 2009 Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma, USA | $34.95
A warm vintage, and it shows in this classic Knights Valley cabernet. It’s full of dense black fruit and sweet chocolate wood flavour, with big chewy tannins. (Treasury) 2010 Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz-Mourvedre South Australia | $21.95
A massive, chewy, tannin-rich wine with dark, brooding flavours, in desperate need of ageing (or decanting?) (Treasury)
26
CityBites
photos: 123rf.com
Ask any sommelier why wines are decanted and you’ll get the same answer: to separate from sediment; to quickly warm up a wine; to impress your guests with your skill and care, and to aerate big, robust, young wines. The first three reasons are straightforward. Old wines, especially reds, contain sediment that, while harmless, looks alarmingly murky and tastes like a spoonful of sand. It’s sensible to carefully pour off the clear wine into a decanter, and leave the solid stuff behind. Likewise, a big red served straight from the cellar at 12°C would be more interesting at 16-18°C. Pouring it into a decanter and then a glass, both at room temperature, gains you 3-4°C as the containers gently warm the liquid. Lastly, while you might debate the virtue of the “showbiz” aspect of decanting, the truth is that lots of drinkers still dig the extra attention paid both to them and the wine. Decanting makes them feel special. The real contention surrounds the fourth point: do young wines actually improve when they are allowed to “breathe”? Does a good dose of air really enhance aromatics and soften texture, as the textbooks contend? It was time to reinvestigate with a rigorous approach and challenge the status quo.
By Sarah B. Hood
TWO HANDS GNARLY DUDES SHIRAZ, 2010 Available Now in Vintages LCBO#: 660043 | $29.95 91 points, Robert Parker
TWO HANDS ANGEL’S SHARE SHIRAZ, 2010 Coming to Vintages on May 26 LCBO#: 9480 | $29.95 91 points, Robert Parker
TWO HANDS SEXY BEAST CABERNET, 2011 Coming to Vintages on July 7 LCBO#: 219469 | $29.95
www.bwwines.com | 416.531.5553
Fruit wines are ripe for picking In England, a local cider or perry can inspire heartfelt devotion, and even homemade hedgerow brews like elderberry wine are seriously savoured. In most of Canada, though, we’ve never really embraced fruit wines. Ontario boasts more than a dozen wineries that produce fruit wine, from apples, of course, but also from raspberries, blackberries, cranberries and peaches. At the 2011 Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards, Quebec dominated the Iced Apple class (apple wine that’s concentrated through cryo-extraction, or artificial freezing). British Columbia was strong overall, but Ontario’s Muskoka Lakes Cranberry Blueberry and Southbrook Farms Winery Canadian Cassis took silver medals in the Fruit Wine category. Muskoka Lakes and Southbrook were also among the bronze winners, along with Hernder Estate Wines and Caroline Cellars Winery. (No gold medals were awarded.) The LCBO stocks a few Ontario fruit wines, including medal-winners from Muskoka Lakes and Southbrook; they range in price from about $11.95 to $16.95, or up to $29.95 for Pine Farms Winery’s Iced Apple. Most fruit wineries sell only through their own shops and websites. Many lie within a short drive of the GTA and make a fine excuse for a day’s outing. For instance, Sunnybrook Farm Estate Winery is located in Niagara wine country at 1425 Lakeshore Road, on the western outskirts of Niagara-on-the-Lake. Their tiny cottage-like tasting room (too little for bus tours), nestled under shady trees, makes a refreshing pause for cycle tourists, and their raspberry wines make a tangy match for aged cheeses. Scotch Block Country Winery (9365 10th Sideroad near Milton), located on a sprawling and scenic fruit farm, presents broad vistas across a landscape of fruit trees, strawberry beds and gooseberry bushes. Wine’s not the only attraction here; there’s also seasonal fruit and baked goods. Scotch Block’s Regal Black Currant has won numerous “Best of Show” awards at the Toronto Wine and Cheese Show. Archibald Orchards and Estate Winery is situated in the rural northern outskirts of Bowmanville (6275 Liberty Street North), and offers wines, cider and apples from the fields around the sales outlet, with its cheerful tasting bar. CB
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Discover the new wave of Australian wine and experience an Australian “barbie” in the heart of the city, a perfect opportunity to taste all 12 of our featured wines while nibbling on some great BBQ and grilled fare. And meet some of our winery guests! Price includes: • Passed appetizers and a variety of BBQ meats • Five wine tasting tables pouring our 12 wines • A chance to win great door prizes • Silent auction
Visit
AussieWine.ca to buy tickets A portion of proceeds benefit Camp Oochigeas (ooch.org)
south of temperance 20 Adelaide Street West, Toronto 647 477 1444 Please be responsible and take public transit. southoftemperance.com
G o to Au s s i e W i n e .c a to f i n d th e s e w i n e s at yo u r lo c a l LC B O
Dionysus Wines
experts: Living on the Veg
By Kait Fowlie | @kaitfowlie
The Vegan Wine Lover’s Dilemma There just might be some animal in your juice 6,000 products spanning 2,000 wine, beer and liquor companies. “We’re the result of that ‘Oh, crap, now what do I do?’” reaction,” says Doucette. “We aim to make it easy to find animal-free drinks.” Vegans who have strong convictions of diet and no-holds-barred wine drinking are often horrified to think of the animal residue they may have inadvertently consumed. The Oxford Companion to Wine notes that infinitesimal traces of any animal protein would remain in the finished product, but this is cold comfort to vegans. As Doucette and his partner Angela tapped into this collective anxiety, their site exploded in popularity. “We get a lot of mail from vegans who’ve just found us... they were basically on the verge of a vow of sobriety. ‘Relieved’ would be an understated description of the tone of those emails.” Indeed, even more horrifying than a tipple of critter leftovers is the prospect of a life without fancy-free wine chugging. Barnivore relies on reader submissions to stay up to date. “We ask our readers to get in touch with the places they care about. We provide a cut and paste question to use, and pass the responses on to us,”
Wine additives can include clay, gelatin, egg whites, milk proteins and fish bladders. additives are often a type of clay, but can also be animal derivatives such as gelatin, egg whites, milk proteins and fish bladders. Back in the old days, dried bull’s blood did the deed. Barnivore provides a guide to more than
Rock n’ roll your whiskey tonight. Traditionally scent, temperature, and taste were the keys to drinking scotch or whiskey. This glass brings two new elements, chilling & motion, to the tasting experience.
2” Ice Ball Mould Included More Information
THE WHOLE TRUTH: At barnivore.com, vegans can view ratings for specific wines.
Doucette says. The company’s response is posted, including which animal product is used and the date. This is important, as processes can change at any time. A rule of thumb: Fining is more likely to occur in mass-market commercial wines. Premium fine wines are usually unfined, partly to preserve their integrity (the less tampering the better), and also because the longer process of crafting great wine gives the unwanted elements time to precipitate out of their own volition. So vegans, either check out barnivore. com, or triple your wine-buying budget. Then, go ahead and unleash your inner party animal. CB kait fowlie is a freelance writer living in Toronto. She enjoys dive bars and park picnics. She also makes a mean vegan cornbread. Check out her Living on the Veg blog at citybitestoronto.tumblr.com.
www.alwaysfinaltouch.com
My search for a great vegan wine has involved some serious love games. I’ve been forced to settle for mediocre juice for months at a time, and I’ve been duped by many a misleading package. Is an honest grape too much to ask? “Very few companies put the words ‘vegan’ or ‘vegetarian’ on the label,” says Jason Doucette. He’s a vegan wine enthusiast and co-creator of the Canadian website barnivore.com, a deep and detailed source of information on vegan wine, beer and liquor. There’s a lot more to wine production than stomping on grapes. Fining agents— added to the wines in order to collect unwanted particles and proteins that stick to the agent and sink to the bottom— improve clarity and stability. These
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experts: Fishmongering
By Dan Donovan | @hookedinc
Fish or Fowl? Invasive and nutritionally controversial: is tilapia still a good choice? Tilapia originated in Africa, where it has served as an accessible source of fresh protein. Subsequently, tilapia were stocked in freshwater lakes and rivers around the world to reduce weeds and to fight mosquitoes, but it became apparent that they were an invasive species— growing quickly and outcompeting native fish, in some cases killing entire lakes by eating all of the food. Fish farmers were attracted by these same features, and tilapia farming exploded. Often called “aquatic chicken,” tilapia is ideal for profitable commercial farming; the fish has white flesh with little flavour, can tolerate crowding and
There is little credible evidence to suggest that tilapia is ‘worse than bacon.’
grows quickly on inexpensive corn-based diets. Typically, a two-pound fish can be brought to market in nine months. In North America regulations generally require that tilapia are raised in closed systems—ponds or tanks—to ensure that they do not escape into the wild and that wastes are handled appropriately by the producer. Elsewhere, tilapia are grown in less expensive cage systems in open water. Over 90 percent of tilapia consumed in Canada is imported from outside of North America. It is difficult to determine where your tilapia comes from; loose regulations in North America allow companies to label imported fish as “Product of USA” if some value-added processing is done. This added value could be packaging, breading or portioning. Nutritionally tilapia is controversial; many consumers choose fish as a source of DHA and EPA, the two fatty acids found in Omega 3 oils that are associated with fish. However,
tilapia that has been raised on corn or soy diets are very low in these oils—usually about a tenth of what would be found in a typical salmon—and have relatively higher Omega 6 oils, which researchers are less united in endorsing. However, despite a lot of news stories that tilapia is “worse than bacon,” there is little credible evidence to suggest this is a valid concern. Overall, tilapia is an inexpensive source of protein that, despite low levels of Omega 3s, may be more beneficial than industrially farmed chicken. Is it good or bad? Ask your fishmonger or retailer where the fish was raised and choose fish reared in North America. Ocean Wise recommends U.S. closed-system tilapia as a sustainable choice, and suggests avoiding imported tilapia. Lastly, if you are eating tilapia in order to get Omega 3 into your family’s diet, another fish may be a better choice. CB dan donovan is a graduate of the Stratford Chef School and a veteran of the Toronto restaurant scene. He and his wife Kristin run HOOKED (hookedinc.ca), Toronto’s only seafood retailer 100%
The aquatic chicken—aka tilapia— is ideal for commercial farming.
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photo: 123rf.com
committed to sustainability.
experts: The Gourmudgeon
By Stephen Temkin
Long Live the Prince! Does prince edward County have Niagara beaten… from the ground up? The French word “terroir” translates literally as “soil.” However, in the wine world, it refers to all of the intertwining environmental factors of geology, topography and climate that define the potential of any specific area of vineyard and the character of the wines produced there. This term was once the exclusive purview of obsessive wine geeks. Now it’s a marketing buzzword for second-rate wineries everywhere. Terroir is promoted as something that provides, as marketing people like to call it, “different flavour experiences.” This drivel diverts our attention away from terroir’s real importance. The effects of terroir on wine are only understood through comparative tasting, and such comparisons inevitably demonstrate that terroir is shamelessly
to be hallowed ground for any particular grape variety. PEC on the other hand, despite the youth of its vines and relative inexperience of its industry, has already shown some tantalizing indicators for at least one: chardonnay. I base my prediction mostly on the consumption of one particular wine. That’s a pretty small sample, but if three decades of tasting has taught me anything, it’s that when there’s something special about the soil, it shows, and when there isn’t, it can’t be faked. The wine I’m referring to is the 2007 Keint-he Chardonnay made by Geoff Heinricks. Until I opened it, the best-ever Ontario chardonnay in my book was the 1998 Temkin-Paskus Beamsville Bench, produced by Deborah Paskus in collaboration with yours truly. I hate feeling trumped, but I had to admit that Geoff’s wine was in certain ways superior, ways that the Beamsville Bench never quite demonstrated despite Deborah’s diligence. What I recognized in Geoff’s chardonnay was something I find in the world’s finest white wines. It’s a quality that goes beyond the prerequisites of ripeness, concentration, structure, complexity and balance. I can only describe it as a remarkable limpidity, one that reveals a shimmering mineral provenance, as if the wine had been sucked right out of the rock. Such wines
photo: Jo Dickens
When there’s something special about the soil, it shows hierarchical. Its primary importance is about the identification of intrinsic quality based on location. Over the coming years, I predict, discerning imbibers of Ontario wine are going to witness this reality in all its ruthless glory. What will become evident is the undeniable superiority of the terroir of Prince Edward County over the Niagara Peninsula. Niagara, some decent wines notwithstanding, has never really proven itself
SOIL BROTHER NO. 1: Geoff Heinricks’ chardonnay testifies.
seem to have a vibrational energy, like the strumming of a harp. Scientifically speaking, every wine is just a quantifiable mixture of molecules. But when the right molecules mingle in certain ways, science becomes descriptively inadequate and gives way to poetry. That poetry only derives from a special terroir, and certain parts of the County would seem to have it. CB
When not eating, drinking, or writing about eating and drinking, stephen temkin makes fedoras, some of which can be seen at leondrexler.com.Reach him at stemkin@rogers.com.
Celebrating 15 Years of Casual Fine Dining. The Monkey Bar remains North Toronto’s favourite neighbourhood bistro and destination dining spot.
3 3 5 3 Yo n g e S t . To r o n t o • 4 1 6 . 4 8 6 . 2 2 8 8 • t h e m o n k e y b a r. c a Spring 2012
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experts: the ej
By Konrad Ejbich | @WineZone
The Quest for Cheapies Or, why can’t you find a rock-bottom cheap wine at the LCBO? wine by at least 30 cents and would certainly gain good market share, especially from writers and journalists. The KGBO would have none of it. Instead of listing our cheapie, they established what they called a Non-Discriminatory Reference Price (NDRP), which completely discriminated against imported wines. No wine would be permitted to retail in Ontario for less than the NDRP, which was set (as I recall) at $4.20. In other words, if we sold the wine at the rock-bottom price, they would increase it to $4.20 and pocket the difference. The public position was that they needed to protect Ontario consumers from alcoholism and other social ills, whereas the real reason was to protect cheap Ontario wines from cheaper imports. I emailed the KGBO’s Media Liaison Office to ask what the NDRP is today. The reply: “The minimum retail price for wine with deposit (20 cents) for a 750 mL bottle of Ontario table wine is currently $5.90. For imported non-U.S., the price would be $6.10.” Here’s the funny thing. There are no wines available in Ontario liquor stores at the minimum. The four least-expensive wines listed are: 522144 CITRA Trebbiano d’Abruzzo $6.95 695809 Velletri Villa Ginetti Superiore $6.95 446633 CITRA Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $6.95 621953 Casal Thaulero Merlot/Cabernet
Sauvignon $7.00
So has no business-minded wine agency offered the Board a product that would sell for the minimum price? Once again, I asked the KGBO. “There is nothing preventing a supplier from offering a wine at the minimum price,” came the official answer. “If a supplier presents a product at the minimum price
The minimum retail price for a bottle of Ontario wine is $5.90. Or $6.10 for imported non-U.S. wine. that delivers good value (decent quality for the price) we would consider it for listing. The reality is we don’t tend to get wines presented at the minimum price.” Well, my dear agents, entrepreneurs and hustlers, sounds like a business opportunity to me. Anyone else out there looking for cheaper wine? CB Konrad Ejbich answers caller questions on CBC Radio’s Ontario Today the last Friday of every month. He is a member of the Wine Writer’s Circle of Canada and a prolific tweeter.
How to Buy Wine from an Agent
Buying consignment wines from an agent is easy. Go online and get their list. Phone or email your order. Wait for delivery. Repeat.
CHÂTEAU, VILLA & ESTATE WINES
B&W Wines 416-531-5553 www.bwwines.com
B&W Wines offers a portfolio of iconic and boutique wineries: Penley Estate, Lillypilly, Two Hands and Jansz from OZ; Darioush and La Crema in California; Argentinean Bodegas Weinert; Barolos from Brovia, Rhone-Ranger Jean-Luc Colombo and Douro producer Quinta de Ventolezo.
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Rogers & Company Lifford Wine Agency 416-440-4101 or toll-free 1-877-272-1720 www.LiffordWine.com
2010 Winner - VINTAGES Portfolio Award of Excellence Serving the hospitality sector and private consumers in Ontario since 1985 with a focus on family owned and operated wineries that are equally as passionate about great wine as we are. Cakebread Cellars, Maison Louis Jadot, Felton Road, Felsina and Hollick, to name just a few.
416-961-2294 or toll free 1-866-202-9579 www.rogcowines.com
A carefully selected portfolio of fine wines from the Old and New worlds featuring on-going availability of Caymus, Chateau Montelena, Dominus, Shafer, Duckhorn, Ridge, Frog’s Leap, Astrolabe, Altesino, Fontodi, Domaine Huet, Domaine Leflaive and over seventy other wineries.
photo: Dick Snyder
A friend called me recently for some shopping advice. She’s launching a book and expects 200 guests, mostly writers, reviewers and journalists. From my experience, hard-core journalists don’t bother much what kind of wine they drink so long as it’s free and the glasses aren’t small. So I went to the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (aka, the KGBO) website to look up the leastexpensive wines. Now, I know something about cheap wine. Many years ago I worked on the selling side of the wine business, plying the Board with terrific offerings I was convinced the public would buy. One year, our company found an Eastern European wine producer who could provide a very decent chardonnay and pinot noir that would retail for $3.65. We would HOW LOW CAN YOU GO? be able to undercut CITRA’s wines are among the least expensive on LCBO shelves. the lowest-priced
experts: libations
By Stephen Beaumont | @BeaumontDrinks
Surprising Summer Sippers Beat the heat with a refreshing dark spirit What comes to mind when you hear “summer drinks”? A chilled sauvignon blanc? Lagers and wheat beers? White rum mojitos? Ever ask yourself why? Much like we dine on different foods in summer, we Canadians have begun changing our drinks to suit the heat, opting for bright, thirst-slaking and fresh-tasting drinks. And light-coloured ones. Which is quite natural, since we tend to equate darker drinks with heavier tastes, but also quite unnecessary. Because any number of amber-hued spirits are well suited to summertime, and a number of them are recent Ontario arrivals, like the whisky I’m most excited about this spring.
Many amber-hued spirits are well suited to summertime Born as a concept a decade ago, the First Edition is the workhorse whisky of the Swedish Mackmyra distillery. Priced at $66.95, it is a light and lovely warmweather whisky, with citrus and spicy ginger on the nose and a vivacious personality on the palate, presenting more ginger, some mixed dried fruit and, as my friend and Whisky Advocate publisher John
Hansell noted, a character that is youthful rather than immature. Another fine summer sipping whisky comes from the Glasgow-area, Auchentoshan. Valinch, the distillery’s cask-strength, nonchill-filtered expression, is no ordinary “Auchie,” though. Triple-distilled, it has a nose reminiscent of heavy cream and baked banana and a sweet, fruity and— once a drop of water is added—creamy body. At $63.95, it’s a fine value. That the above are summer-suitable might surprise, since Sweden and Scotland are hardly known for their balmy weather, but there should be no such shock when I highlight another recent arrival, this a whiskey rather than a whisky. Buffalo Trace Bourbon hails from Kentucky, after all, where sultry summers are the norm, and greets the heat with a balanced mix of vanilla, nutty toffee and spice cake. Drop a cube of ice into a tumbler of this $39.95 beauty and prepare for some serious patio sittin’. Still more associated with hot weather is tequila, although normally in its silver, or plata, guise and mixed rather than served straight. Gran Centenario Reposado, however, should be your exception to this rule, a sublime, light copper-coloured spirit aged in French Limousin oak to a smouldering, peppery aroma and a body filled with spicy lime and roasted fruit
SUMMER FLING: Mackmyra The First Edition, $66.95
notes. At $46.95 it is the equal or better of reposados twice its price. A pair of newly arrived rums also suite summer well. Barbancourt Four Year Old is an oak-aged, pot-distilled Haitian rhum that, at only $29.95, bats well above its weight with soft vanilla and candied fruit notes mixing with lime zest and toffee. Bigger and bolder is the Ron Zacapa 23 Year Old, massive in body, robustly fruity and, at $79.95, a gem for late-night savouring. CB Stephen Beaumont’s World Atlas of Beer (co-authored with Tim Webb) will appear in bookstores this fall. He’ll be anticipating its arrival all summer long on Twitter at @BeaumontDrinks.
Wine Cellars, Racking, Cabinets, Stemware and Accessories showroom 339 Olivewood Rd 416.285.6604 rosehillwinecellars.com RWC_CBA_2011.indd 1
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One last bite
By Konrad Ejbich
The Capsule Quiz How well do you know Ontario wine? a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
j.
k.
l.
Can you match these capsules to their home winery? A Foreign Affair Angels Gate Creekside Estates Dan Aykroyd Wines Fielding Estates Lighthall Cellars Megalomaniac Mike Weir Wines Organized Crime Winery Rosewood Estate Winery & Meadery Wayne Gretzky Estate Wildass Wines Visit citybites.ca for answers. Don’t forget to sign up for our enewsletter and you could win some great prizes!
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Visa Infinite Wine Country Experiences
速 Visa Infinite Wine Country Experiences is excited to offer year-round benefits and event opportunities at select wineries to Visa Infinite cardholders. Complimentary tastings for two, unique reserve tastings and wine and food pairings are just a click away. Visit visainfinite.ca to learn more about the benefits available to Visa Infinite cardholders at participating wineries in Ontario this summer.
*Visa claim based upon global number of general purpose cards, number of transactions and purchase volume.