Devour Utah August 2018

VOL. 4 NO. 8 • AUGUST 2018 • BARBECUE FREE COPY

BBQ BASICS, P. 18

WINE TASTINGS & CLASSES, P. 56

the

issue

Pizza on the Grill, p. 48

UTAH RESTAURANT

DevourASSOCIATION Utah • AUGUST 2018 P. 162

A family of restaurants with

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!

Chabaar Beyond Thai

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87 w 7200 s Midvale, UT 801-566-5100

65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111

Siam Noodle Bar

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5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT

1984 E. Murray Holladay Rd, UT 801-676-9300

Bottom floor in bldg. 1 in IMC Hospital

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Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM

2 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

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Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 3

contents

Barbecue Issue

10 Fab Four

Meat treats you gotta eat

BY BRIAN FRYER

14 Get a ’Cue

38 Serious Smoking

52 Plate It

BY JERRE WROBLE

BY JERRE WROBLE

Jesse Johnson talks Wild West BBQ Shoot Out

Kaiser’s Texas Bar-B-Q & General Store

Understanding American barbecue

40 Summer Spritzers

54 Devour This Recipe

BY DARBY DOYLE

BY JERRE WROBLE

18 BBQ Basics

42 The Spread

56 Back to School

BY AIMEE L. COOK & HEATHER L. KING

BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL

BY DARBY DOYLE

BY JERRE WROBLE

Who’s hot in the local ’cue scene

34 Sizzlin’ Seasonings Recipes for herb-rich rubs and marinades

BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON

36 Pair Extraordinaire

Wines that go with barbecue fare

BY DARBY DOYLE

4 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

Not lame, not all that tame

Bandits’ Grill & Bar

44 The Herbivore Grill

Meatless meats that promise flavor

BY AMANDA ROCK

48 Pizza on the Barbie Homemade pizza that lets you keep your cool

BY DIANE HARTFORD

Larry Carter’s Beer-can Chicken

Wine tastings and education

66 Juicy Lucy

In search of a burger’s heart of gold

BY HEATHER L. KING

Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 5

CONTRIBUTORS STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS EDITORIAL Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors

JERRE WROBLE SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN CAROLYN CAMPBELL, AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, BRIAN FRYER, MERRY HARRISON, DIANE HARTFORD, HEATHER L. KING, AMANDA ROCK

After starting out writing about beautiful homes and gardens in Utah, Aimee L. Cook now dabbles in subjects from food to human interest. A member of the Association of Food Journalists, she writes for several local publications.

Photographers SARAH ARNOFF, NIKI CHAN, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, JOHN TAYLOR

PRODUCTION Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Assistant Art Director BRIAN PLUMMER Graphic Artists JOSH SCHEUERMAN, SOFIA CIFUENTES VAUGHN ROBISON

BUSINESS/OFFICE Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, ANNA KASER Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS

Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor.

She also blogs about boozy experiments at ABourbonGal.com.

MARKETING Marketing Coordinator SAMANTHA SMITH

CIRCULATION Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO

SALES Vice President, New Business Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives

SAM URIE JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER ANNE BAILEY, ERIC BROCK, ALEX MARKHAM, MIEKA SAWATZKI, JEREMIAH SMITH

Cover photo illustration by Derek Carlisle Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com

Copperfield Publishing

Copyright 2018. All rights reserved

@DevourUtah

6 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

@DevourUtah

@DevourUtah

Heather L. King writes about food, travel and culture in Utah and beyond. She is the founder of Utah Ladies Who Lunch and a proud Great Dane owner.

Herbalist Merry Lycett Harrison owns SLC-based Millcreek Herbs and is a professional member of the American Herbalists Guild. Her botanical research has been published in HerbalGram (the Journal of the American Botanical Council) and the Journal of Utah Archaeology. She offers classes in medicinal and culinary herbs and herb gardening. To learn more, visit MillcreekHerbs. com.

Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 7

From the Editor

SMOKE and FIRE I

n 2013, Texas Monthly hired a full-time barbecue editor, an architect named Daniel Vaughn, whose love of smoke and fire inspired him to leave his day job. In a landscape filled with food writers, bloggers and critics (in other words, generalists), why would barbecue merit its own editor? Maybe we should be asking: Why did it take so long to hire one?

After all, American barbecue is like jazz. It’s homegrown. It belongs to the US of A. Its preparation, cooking techniques and presentation vary across the country, giving cities, states and regions their own bragging rights. Its diversity is what makes barbecue so worthy of study. You could say it’s all about pride.

We’re living in a time where more folks strive to be vegetarian or even vegan, yet barbecue shows no signs of going away. On the contrary, there are now any number of mock-meat products designed to be barbecued, as Amanda Rock writes about in her Herbivore Grill feature. It’s hard for anyone to resist barbecue’s grilled and smoky flavors, even those who don’t eat meat.

Barbecue is a way of connecting and harkening back to our roots and cooking traditions, back to a time when humans gathered around the fire after a successful hunt. As we’ve become more civilized, barbecue brought in breads, salads, casseroles and even a picnic table covered in a checkered tablecloth where family and friends feasted.

Cooking methods were handed down, mothers and fathers to sons and daughters. Barbecue is a complex blend of taste, smells, rituals, memories and family. So, maybe it’s all about love.

Barbecue traditions in Utah continue to gain momentum. For one thing, Utahns have the side dishes down (green Jell-O or Frog Eye salad, anyone?). From backyard hobbyists to barbecue competitors to dedicated restaurateurs, there is no shortage of enthusiasts. People of all ages, income brackets and backgrounds are eager to embrace the traditions and share their secrets with others. We even have a passel of equipment manufacturers as well as sauce and seasonings innovators, just a few of whom are profiled in “BBQ Basics” by Aimee L. Cook and Heather L. King.

So, maybe it’s all about creativity.

And then there’s the idea of time. Barbecue is the opposite of fast food. For example, Joe Morley’s BBQ in Midvale smokes their meats for their Texas-style barbecue over cherry wood for up to 14 hours. Oh, and Morley’s has also been around since 1985.

Time and pride and love and creativity. That’s what makes great barbecue, and that’s what makes being a barbecue editor such a great gig, even if it’s only for this issue. ❖ —Jerre Wroble

8 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 9

Barbecue Issue

AND

SMOKY SAUCY Four barbecue offerings to please your inner Neanderthal

BY BRIAN FRYER

10 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

Smoked Chicken Wings

COURTESY PHOTO

U

tah might not have the renowned barbecue heritage of places like Texas, Mississippi, North Carolina or Kansas but, in many ways, it works to our advantage.

After all, having no loyalties to any particular region or style of barbecue means we can enjoy the best of all smoky, spicy and sweet worlds whenever we want. The Wasatch Front has become home to a respectable number of ’cue joints specializing in planting a smoky kiss on everything from pork ribs to turkey and meatloaf in every style from dry rubs to sloppy, saucy St. Louis. Barbecue joints in Utah share the same staple dishes such as pork ribs, brisket, pulled pork and chicken but each restaurant seems to have that one menu item that regularly sells out and brings customers back time and time again. What follows are four best-sellers.

PHIL LESSON

Smoked Beef Brisket

Smoked Chicken Wings

SugarHouse Barbeque has been smoking up its South Salt Lake neighborhood since 1996, serving Memphis style, dry-rubbed meats, smoked with a variety of woods in their outdoor smoker. One particular offering that’s been flying out the kitchen since Day 1 is the smoked chicken wings. “We’re pretty proud of those, and we’ve won a lot of awards for them,” General Manager Jeff Berg says. “We get a jumbo wing, and it gets our dry rub, and then they go in a marinade for a while.

We smoke them over cherry wood for three to five hours.” All sauces at SugarHouse from the house sweet signature sauce to spicy vinegar Pig Sauce to a South Carolina mustard sauce are housemade and served on the side.

The SugarHouse Barbeque Co. 880 E. 2100 South, SLC 801-463-4800 SugarHouseBBQ.com

Smoked Beef Brisket

It’s not uncommon to find a line outside Smokin’ Bones Barbecue awaiting their slow-smoked beef brisket, according to Carol Wood, one of this Bountiful pitstop’s four family owners. “We have people who know barbecue who tell us the brisket is the best they’ve ever had,” Wood says. The 11-pound beef brisket gets a dry rub and is then placed in Smokin’ Bones’ custom smoker that is steadily fed pellets made from pecans along with blocks of hickory. After about nine hours, the meat is pulled out, wrapped in craft paper and returned to the smoker for another several hours. “Wrapping it helps build a ‘bark’ on the outside and keep some moisture,” Wood explains. The popular item is sliced and served with sides, piled high on a salad or a burger or used as a pizza topping.

Smokin’ Bones Barbecue 364 S. 200 West, Bountiful 801-298-1687 SmokinBonesBBQUt.com Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 11

Locally & Family Owned!

EVERY BITE CONSIDERED At BGR, fresh is more than an adjective--it’s a mindset.

From the top of the top bun, to the lettuce, 6oz of proprietary blend of meat, and bottom bun, we don’t take any shortcuts. Our burgers are grilled to order over an open flame, prepared with garden fresh toppings, and served with your preferred temperature: rare, medium, well-done or anything in between.

Custom design, in house work, jewelry repair, high quality diamonds, engagement rings.

801-583-2700 | 1346 S. 2100 E. SLC, UT www.redfordjewelers.com

12 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

w w w. b g r t h e b u r g e r j o i n t. c o m 801-487-6301 1202 E Wilmington Ave, Ste 120 Salt Lake UT 84106

Barbecue Issue

Smoked Beef Tri-tip

Holy Smoke’s beef tri-tip is a little taste of home for airmen from nearby Hill Air Force Base who hail from or have served at bases in California. Growing up in Hollywood, owner Jeff Ray was raised on Santa Maria tri-tip, a classic on ranches in the Golden State. Traditionally grilled over white oak, Ray gives his tri-tip a smoky twist. “I do a traditional rub of salt, pepper, onion and garlic and then it goes in the smoker for two hours and then it gets finished on the grill before we slice it,” he says.

The thin-sliced beef is loaded onto a ciabatta roll and presented for customers to sauce as they like.

“Sometimes people from California recognize [the tri-tip] and expect it to be like it is there,” Ray says.

“Ours is a bit different.”

Smoked Beef Tri-tip

JENNY LEMON

Holy Smoke BBQ & Grill 855 N. Heritage Park Blvd., Layton 801-614-5011 HolySmokeBBQ-Grill.com

Always on the lookout for something new to shake up a menu that’s been drawing crowds for nearly 17 years, Pat Barber introduced smoked meatloaf to grateful diners at Pat’s BBQ nearly nine years ago.

Made using beef sirloin and brisket, the ground meats are formed into a loaf without a pan and placed in the smoker. After several hours, the loaf is sliced and served with grilled onions and barbecue sauce. But the innovative Barber says even with the dish’s popularity, he’s planning to make some tweaks and soon will be grinding all the meat for the meatloaf in-house. “I want a more coarse-grind,” he says. Plus, he says he’s now ordering brisket for the meatloaf from a supplier in the Midwest “that is the best I’ve ever tasted.” ❖ Pat’s BBQ 155 W. Commonwealth Ave., SLC 801-484-5963 PatsBBQ.com

Smoked Meatloaf

DEREK CARLISLE

Smoked Meatloaf

Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 13

Barbecue Issue

Get a

'Cue Confused by all the styles of barbecue?

Here are some basics

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COMPILED BY JERRE WROBLE

B

arbecue means different things to different people. Try to avoid comparing your backyard cookout with a pitmaster’s rituals of seasoning, grilling and smoking. The are not the same thing.

Some of us cook outdoors to accommodate a big family gathering and avoid heating up the house. But for true barbecue aficionados, a lengthy process is often required, one that involves procuring and preparing the right cut of meat using spices, herbs, rubs, brines and marinades. Once preparation is complete, the meat is either quickly grilled over intense flame to produce a char, or slowly smoked over indirect heat using specialty woods resulting in a smoky taste.

When it comes to smoking, “low and slow” is how it’s done, with temperatures ranging from 225-275 degrees Fahrenheit. Over many hours, this level of heat breaks down the toughest cuts of meat until it falls off the bone and melts in your mouth, bursting with smokiness.

While barbecue-worshipping Southerners would argue that the average American backyard cook-out should even be labeled “barbecue,” they also can’t agree among themselves what true Southern barbecue is. State by state, region by region, traditions vary.

Utah restaurants and pitmasters are not bound by strict definitions and can offer eclectic mixes such as St. Louis ribs and Texas brisket, or throw in some original creations or other types of cuisine (Thai curry?). So, savor the variety!

What follows are regional descriptions of barbecue styles, along with specialties and local eateries where you can sample the style of cookin’ that most appeals to your taste buds.

14 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

South Carolina Gold

Memphis

• Primarily pork, notably ribs • Wet sauce is mopped on ribs before and after pit cooking to keep meat moist.

• Dry ribs are seasoned with a rub of salt, pepper, paprika, cayenne, sugar and other spices.

• Sandwiches are typically pulled pork on a bun, topped with coleslaw and barbecue sauce.

• Sauce has a peppery tomato base thickened and sweetened with molasses or sugar Meat specialties: Pork ribs, pulled-pork sandwich Local taste: SugarHouse Barbeque Co. pulled pork sandwich and signature pork spare ribs

North Carolina

North Carolina Red

Kansas City ’s th i

• Whole hog is barbecued • Lexington-style chops pork shoulder and douses it with a vinegar-and-ketchup-based sauce • Eastern style: Meat is chopped or sliced, covered in a peppery vinegar • Sides include coleslaw, red slaw and hush puppies Meat specialties: Pork shoulder or ribs Local taste: Charlotte-Rose’s Carolina BBQ baby-back ribs with vinegar sauce

South Carolina

ck a nd e sw

et

• It’s all about the pig, either chopped or sliced.

• Central South Carolina uses a tangy mustardbased sauce thinned with vinegar known as Carolina Gold • The state’s western section prefers a heavy sweet, peppery, tomato-based sauce.

• The coastal Pee Dee region features a thinner vinegar sauce that’s spicy and peppery.

Meat specialties: Ham or pork butt Local taste: Charlotte-Rose’s Carolina BBQ pulled pork sandwich with SC mustard sauce

Kansas City

• Includes a wide variety of meats including beef, pork, chicken, turkey, sausage and lamb • Meat is dry rubbed, then smoked over hickory • Served with a table sauce that’s made thick and tangy with molasses and tomato A meat specialty: Burnt ends, the end of a cut of brisket with a high fat content Local taste: Goodwood Barbecue Co. burntends brisket

Devour Utah • august AUGUST 2018 15

Barbecue Issue

Texas

• Texas barbecue is about the beef (not the sauce) especially the brisket.

• The Germans and Czechs brought meatmarket-style of barbecue to central Texas, which is known for pit-style barbecue. Meat is dry rubbed using salt, pepper and possibly other spices, then cooked over indirect heat over oak, pecan or mesquite woods. Some cuts are basted with savory mop sauce made of beef stock, vinegar, Worcestershire and spices.

Sauce is served on the side.

• In East Texas, beef or pork are marinated in a sweet, tomato based sauce, then slowly cooked until falling off the bone. Meat is usually chopped, not sliced, then served on a bun with hot sauce.

A meat specialty: Beef brisket Local taste: Bam Bam’s beef brisket sandwich; SugarHouse Barbeque Co.’s Texas chopped beef

Central Texas Pit Sauce

Alabama

• All about the pig: pork shoulder, butt or ribs.

• Northern Alabama boasts its own white sauce that’s made with mayonnaise, cider vinegar, lemon juice, horseradish, salt, pepper and hot sauce (see p. 17).

• Sauce is applied liberally on smoked chicken and pork.

• Sides include baked beans, coleslaw and potato chips Meat specialty: Pulled-pork sandwich with white sauce Local taste: SugarHouse Barbeque Co. smoked turkey breast sandwich with ‘Bama sauce

St. Louis

• Refers to spare ribs that are grilled (as opposed to slow smoked) then heavily sauced in a sweet, sticky, tomato-based sauce.

• St. Louis-style spare ribs are cut to remove the sternum bone, cartilage and rib tips to form a rectangular-shaped rack. This cut of ribs became known as St. Louis Style.

Meat-specialty: St. Louis ribs

Local taste: Goodwood Barbecue Co. St. Louis ribs ❖

16 Devour Utah • august AUGUST 2018

The Spirit of St. Louis

East Texas Heat

Dip, Dab & Slather

Spread this tangy, mayo-based condiment over chicken and any barbecue dish

BY DARBY DOYLE

T

’Bama-Style White Sauce

hink of it as the ranch dressing of the Deep South. I had my first addicting taste of this pale-golden elixir circa 1990 while I attended college in Memphis, Tenn. A friend from Huntsville, Ala., proudly shared a jar of his homemade sauce to marinate and slather on grilled chicken and smoked pork during a hot and humid summer afternoon with friends. The tangy white sauce studded with lots of cracked black peppercorn cut the richness of smoked pork butt and cranked the juiciness of the chicken to 11. Cut with a little more vinegar, it’s a primo salad dressing or coleslaw binder. And it’s a superlative dip for anything deep fried: okra, pickles or french fries— especially if served with a cold draft beer. College keg party nostalgia optional. Note: No Southerner worth his or her salt would make this with anything but Duke’s mayonnaise (available online).

Alabama-style White Barbecue Sauce (makes about 3 cups) Ingredients 2 cups mayonnaise 1 ¼ cups apple cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 heaping tablespoon cracked black peppercorns (use a mortar & pestle or set a grinder to the coarsest setting possible) ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon onion powder Method Add all ingredients to a quart mason jar with lid.

Shake well to combine. Taste, and adjust seasoning (err toward more pepper!). Keep refrigerated for up to a week. ❖

Bam Bam’s 1708 S. State, Orem 801-225-1324 BamBamsBBQ.com

Charlotte-Rose’s Carolina BBQ 571 W. 2600 South, Bountiful 919-244-6604 Facebook.com/ charlotterosescarolinabbq

Goodwood Barbecue Co. 113 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-495-4840 4237 S. Riverdale Road, Riverdale, 801-393-0426 GoodwoodBBQ.com

SugarHouse Barbeque Co. 880 E. 2100 South, SLC 801-463-4800 SugarHouseBBQ.com

Devour Utah • august AUGUST 2018 17

Barbecue Issue

AN T H ON LUJA Y N

BASICS

BY AIMEE L. COOK & HEATHER L. KING

I

t’s been a decade of explosive growth in the world of American barbecue. More and more Utahns are getting into the art of smoking and grilling—not just ribs and brisket but also foods such as trout and oysters. Folks are flocking to barbecue blogs, classes and competitions, and there are more products being created for barbecue enthusiasts. And, as can be seen by diners ordering brisket, ribs, sausage and chicken at any given barbecue joint on any given lunch or dinner hour, a growing number of us love the great taste of barbecue.

For this issue of Devour, we’ve asked a group of local experts for their pro tips to help you hone your barbecue skills. From competitors to bloggers to sauce and rub creators, we’ve got inspiration aplenty in the following pages to keep you at the top of your game.

MISTYDELGADO

The season’s best advice, products and recipes from pros who know ANTHONY LUJAN

Smoke Ain’t No Joke barbecue team An avid outdoor cook for most of his life, Anthony Lujan went from outdoor barbecuing with friends and family to competitive barbecue cooking in 2015. His first competition was the BBQ Pitstop Backyard Challenge, in which he took third place overall for his chicken and ribs.

Later that same year, Lujan entered a second competition, Smokin Up, and took first place in the rib category.

“In 2016, I decided to take a risk and enter the pro category,” Lujan says. “At this level, entries from all four categories are a requirement— chicken, ribs, pork and brisket. Presentation and appearance are also heavily weighed. Most participants create teams and enter with their partners at this level due to increased expectations and difficulty. The key to great barbecue is the prep before you cook. If you take the time to trim and remove unnecessary fats and unneeded meat, you will end up with a great product.”

Lujan and his team have entered 15 competitions so far, with various placements and wins.

Currently, they use Big Daddy Hill sauces in all their competitions.

Bourbon Blues is Lujan’s favorite as it “has a very nice, sweet flavor and also adds great color to the end product,” he says. “But you can’t go wrong with any of them.”

Lujan considers rubs a key ingredient in barbecue, and he particularly likes the Meat Church line (The Ocho, $64, MeatChurch. com). He uses sauces only for an extra layer of flavor at the end. (Aimee L. Cook) Smoke Ain’t No Joke Facebook.com/801BBQ

18 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

SUSIE BULLOCH

SUSI E BULL OCH

Bulloch dabbles in competitive barbecue, but she likes to explore too much to fit inside the competition box. She enjoys trying new techniques and putting new flavors together, so, to her, home cooking is more appealing.

For newbies, she recommends her first viral recipe, The Best Sweet Rub, saying it goes on everything. The rub—made with dark brown sugar, salt, pepper, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, ground mustard and cayenne pepper—along with the slow-cooking process create a dark bark on the outside of the meat, making it almost look burnt, but it’s actually caramelized and full of flavor.

“A good rub will allow the meat to stand on its own,” Bulloch says. “And now, more than ever, grilling and barbecue are super accessible.

There are so many resources available. I write for people who are looking for something outside of burgers.” (ALC)

JOHN TAYLOR

JOHN TAYLOR

Creator of Hey Grill, Hey Bulloch got the cooking bug when she was young, as her family owned a small restaurant in Southern Utah that catered to tourists. Fast forward to today, and Bulloch’s recipes are all over the internet. In 2015, Bulloch launched her website, Hey Grill, Hey, and it quickly gained a following—so much so that her husband quit his day job as a CPA and they now run their family barbecue business together.

“My favorite thing is recipe development,” Bulloch says. “In the beginning, as a freelancer, I read everything I could about barbecue, I was cooking recipes five days a week ... it became something I was passionate about. I started to get confident in creating recipes that people could make at home and decided to start my own site.”

HeyGrillHey.com Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 19

PATIO SEASON IS HERE

3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT 2015 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com Best

of Utah

20 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

Barbecue Issue

COURTESY TRAEGER GRILLS

CHA D WAR D

CHAD WARD

Traeger Grills director of marketing Ward got into barbecuing at an early age.

His father cooked on a propane grill, he says, which caused meats to be burnt on the outside and raw on the inside.

After many failed attempts, Ward took over for his father at around 10 years old and quickly developed a passion for barbecue. After college, he sold software for a time but was quickly drawn back to his barbecue roots. In 2007, he started competitive barbecuing and took seventh place (out of nine) in his first attempt, losing to a team of Boy Scouts.

“It was a very humble beginning, but there was something about that first contest that gave me a competitive outlet,” Ward says.

“I also developed some great friendships.” He went on to own three Whiskey Bent BBQ Supply stores and later was offered a chance to be a pro-team member for Traeger Grills. Two years ago, he joined Traeger full-time.

Ward has cooked in more than 110 contests across 28 states, has won eight state championships and has been on the Food Network show Chopped, but he just really loves to

bring people together with barbecue.

“Brisket is my favorite thing to barbecue. For me, if people say they don’t like brisket, they are either vegan or they have not eaten a good brisket,” Ward says. “My go-to product is the Traeger Prime Rib Rub [$9.99 for 9.25 ounces]. It just elevates proteins,” noting that he even puts it on side items.

“I always say the rub, the sauce and the smoke should never overpower the protein,” Ward adds. (ALC) 1215 Wilmington Ave., SLC 801-701-7180 TraegerGrills.com Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 21

?

DINNER WHAT’S FOR

Sign up online today and let us take care of dinner.

www.wasatchfresh.com info@wasatchfresh.com

501 E. 900 S. SLC | (385) 202-7167 | www.traditionslc.com

22 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

1337 S. Main Street Salt Lake City, UT 84115

385•528•2413

Barbecue Issue

JOHN TAYLOR

WILL WILS ON

WILL WILSON

Snider Bros. Meats Snider Bros. Meats has been family owned and operated for six generations. A.C. Snider got his start in Texas but left the Lone Star State in the 1920s to operate butcher shops in Washington and Oregon. His sons went on to operate meat shops in Southern California until one of them, Grandpa Charlie, settled in Utah in the ’70s, ostensibly to retire. Instead, he opened a meat shop in Ogden in 1983 and a second shop in Holladay in 1992. Snider Bros. is still family owned

(although the Ogden store closed in 2010), and grandson Will Wilson runs the store with his wife, Amy, and their oldest son, Jake.

“We have been selling smokers for the past 13 years,” Wilson says.

He’s excited to see so many people getting into backyard barbecue, noting that barbecuing transcends every demographic. “You don’t have to spend a lot of money to start barbecuing,” he says.

Snider Bros. Meat carries a plethora of barbecue products, from competition rubs to sauces. “Rubs come in two varieties: Some are just

for beef and are savory, not sweet.

Others are for poultry or pork and tend to be sweeter,” Wilson says. His go-to for brisket is the Oakridge Black Ops Brisket Rub ($11.95, 6 ounces). “The blended spices and sugars produce a really good bark,” he says.

For poultry, he likes the Money Rub ($12.99, 14 ounces), which pairs well with the great smoky flavor of Blues Hog BBQ Sauce ($5.95, 16 ounces).

(ALC) 6245 S. Highland Drive 801-272-6469 SniderBrosMeats.com Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 23

Life isn’t perfect... but your nails could be

Hours: 7am to 10pm • peacetreecafe.com 435-259-0101 • 20 South Main Street • Moab, Utah 435-587-5063 • 516 North Main Street • Monticello, Utah

24 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

801.828.6776 1311 S. 900 E. SLC, UT. www.topcoatslc.com

Barbecue Issue

JOHN TAYLOR

L EE HILL

LEE HILL

Big Daddy Hill’s BBQ Sauce Hailing from North Carolina, Lee Hill grew up around barbecue and developed a love for it. Making sauces was not part of his career plan per se, but 10 years ago, his life changed. Hill’s daughter, Jeannie, was born with cerebral palsy, and the family moved to Utah for medical care. Hill began making sauces on the side for extra money to cover therapies. Now in its fourth year, and the family operates the business full-time.

“I started selling my sauces at the local farmers market,” Hill says. Now, things have taken off. They are expanding into catering, serving barbecue at the Downtown Farmers Market, and they hire veterans to work for them.

Big Daddy Hill’s sauces include 10 regular flavors and, throughout the year, they introduce flavor options for special occasions. Hill creates his recipes based on flavors he grew up eating as well as from places he traveled to while in the military. Currently, the biggest seller is the Sweet and Tangy, ($6.99, 15 ounces) his original sauce.

According to Hill, it’s a versatile sauce that’s a must-have in your pantry. “This sauce is the mother of all sauces, as we call it in the barbecue world,” he says. “It is great on all proteins.” You can spice it up by adding your own hot sauce to it. (ALC) 801-834-1265 BigDaddyHills.com

Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 25

One of a kind items at a one of a kind store

Steampunk, antiques, original artwork

by John Cottam Lower Level Center Court Trolley Square

26 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

Barbecue Issue

JOHN TAYLOR

AIME E TONE R

AIMEE TONER

Cottonwood Spice and Tea Co. Growing up in a Vermont country inn shaped Toner’s culinary life. Her parents owned a bed & breakfast, where her mother taught her all about healthy comfort foods. After moving to Utah nine years ago, Toner found there were not many affordable meal-prep/delivery services around. She began developing a menu for the month and cooking certain parts of each meal, then she’s provided detailed instructions on how to prepare the rest. She would make the main course, the bread and the salad dressing and have it delivered until her client list climbed to more than 20 families. During this time, Toner was creating seasonings and spice blends she put together to enhance her recipes. That lead her to selling them on Etsy. After having success on that platform, Toner started selling her blends at the Wheeler Farm Farmers Market. Now selling 20 different spice blends, Toner still includes a recipe card with each blend.

“My Westward Ho BBQ blend has 12 ingredients,” she says ($9.99, 3 ounces). “It is tangy as opposed to smoky, because I go more for the North Carolina style.” You can use the blend to make your own barbecue sauce, she notes. It has apple cider vinegar powder in it, which gives it a bit of a pucker. “It is even great in rice,” she says. (ALC) 2157 E. 2100 South, Ste. B, SLC 860-205-2838 AimeesHomeCookin.com Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 27

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Barbecue Issue

JOHN TAYLOR

S TE V JOHN E SON

STEVE JOHNSON

BBQ Pitstop Johnson has always enjoyed cooking.

As he has traveled around the country, he’s tried all the barbecue he could find.

Eating in different regions inspired him to learn about barbecue but he soon realized he lacked the knowledge on how to buy the right products and how to use them. “I have found that most people who are buying smokers in Utah are buying their first family’s smoker. They don’t have a grandfather to teach them how to barbecue right,” Johnson says. “I

have had some mentors who have taught me some things when I was just starting out. So, after dabbling in the barbecue arena for a few months, we realized it was bigger than we thought. Our business model is to be the pro shop of barbecue.”

Johnson started competing in barbecue after opening his first store in 2012. He and his team, Utah BBQ Co., compete together and have won several championships around the country.

But their main focus is still helping folks go from barbecue zero to hero.

They send customers home with a step-

by-step guide on how to barbecue along with the necessary products.

“We recommend the Pork Star rub ($12.99, 12.6 ounces) to folks for pork,” Johnson says. “People always report back on how great it is.”

For sauce, Blues Hog is their top seller.

They also sell all types of smokers.

“Barbecue can really fit in any budget,” he says. (ALC) ❖ 865 W. State Road, Lehi, 801-341-7171 1131 Utah Highway 193, Layton, 801-341-7172 BBQPitstop.com

Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 29

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Barbecue Issue

JOHN TAYLOR

ER ROG D & RO ON S G T LIVIN

SMOKING THE COMPETITION

R&R Barbeque Barbecue is in the blood of identical twins Rod and Roger Livingston, the founders of R&R Barbeque. By the end of 2018, the brothers will have opened of a total of eight R&R locations up and down the Wasatch Front. It’s a dream few restaurateurs can hope to attain in a lifetime, and the Livingston brothers have accomplished it in just five years.

While their competitive natures and entrepreneurial spirits are surely drivers of their success as Utah restaurateurs, it’s also true that barbecue has simply always been a part of their lives.

Growing up in a family of butchers, Rod and Roger would often visit relatives in the South who thrived on slow-smoking pork butts at family get togethers. Later, as the brothers traveled for various business interests, they would make sure to eat at all the noteworthy barbecue joints that crossed their paths around the United States.

In the early ’90s, each of the twins bought smokers to start experimenting with the art and science of barbecue and eventually entered their first barbecue competition together in 2009.

After working out their recipes and rubs and devising a system where each was responsible for certain turn ins, R&R Barbeque began claiming local, regional and national barbecue competition awards. They hit the big time in 2011 when they were the highest nationally ranked competitive barbecue team from Utah on the Kansas City Barbeque Society circuit.

Using those award-winning proteins as their starting point,

R&R Barbeque launched onto Salt Lake City’s restaurant scene in April 2013 with a menu of smoky chicken, fall-offthe-bone ribs, meaty brisket and juicy pulled pork, as well as a signature burger. Sides such as freshly battered fried okra with a Cajun kick and red beans and rice dotted with meaty slices of sausage also hit the mark. Hush puppies with jalapeno, coleslaw, baked beans and potato salad round out the options.

Daily specials, like Taco Tuesday’s brisket taco with spicy aioli, are also available.

“What really amazes us is the following we’ve created,” they says of their fast-paced success. “We have people that every time they come into town, this is the first place they stop.

We’ve met people from all over the world. Our local customers are the ones that really make us believe we are doing something right. We have some we see at least once a week or more, and many have really become our good friends.”

Although R&R Barbeque is no longer a staple on the competitive barbecue scene, Roger and Rod enjoy sharing their knowledge about smoked meats by teaching classes several times a year in addition to simply talking to customers every day.

To them, barbecue is a social event, and there’s no better time to talk about barbecue than while feeding a hungry crowd.

You’ll find R&R in Salt Lake, South Jordan, Lehi, Farmington and the Vivint Smart Home Arena. Look for new locations in Pleasant Grove, North Salt Lake and Spanish Fork. (Heather L. King) RandRBBQ.com Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 31

Barbecue Issue

COURTESY THERMOWORKS

TIN M AR EARL

CHEF MARTIN EARL

ThermoWorks If you’ve ever been a customer of Starbucks, The Olive Garden or Tim Hortons, you’ve experienced the food-safety benefits that American Fork-based ThermoWorks products provide.

Founder Randy Owen launched ThermoWorks in 1997 to provide professional time and temperature tools such as thermometers, sensors, handheld instruments, loggers, controllers and calibration gear to restaurants, commercial chefs, food service professionals, manufacturers and home cooks.

With regular features in national magazines and appearances on America’s Test Kitchen, Today, Alton Brown’s Good Eats, The Early Show and other food programs over the years, chefs of every caliber began to clamor for the highly accurate and fast professional thermometers.

In the past several years, ThermoWorks has enjoyed newfound success fueled by rising demand from nonprofessional home cooks who now make up two thirds of ThermoWorks customers around the world.

The company’s most popular product, the Thermopen, is available in two styles—the classic and Mk4—that show temperature readings accurate within .7 degrees Fahrenheit in 2-3 seconds. The Thermopen comes in 10 colors to match any kitchen décor and color coordinates with other ThermoWorks products.

ThermoWorks culinary editor and chef Martin Earl explains that when it comes to using temperature correctly, “knowledge is power, and a good thermometer gives you the knowledge you need to get the results you want!” Here, he

32 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

shares some of his favorite temperature tips to make your grilling and cooking experiences world-class.

Don’t cook your chicken to 165 degrees Fahrenheit. Pull your chicken off the grill at 160 degrees and let carryover do the rest. “Pasteurization of the meat is a function of time and temperature, and while you need 165 degrees to kill any bacteria instantly, keeping your chicken at 160 for 16.9 seconds will do exactly the same thing. You get chicken that is juicier and it’s still safe to eat,” he says.

For that same piece of chicken, Earl recommends pounding those chicken breasts. “That weird shape with a thick bulge and a thin tail will only lead to uneven cooking, so pound the breasts to a nearly even thickness before tossing them on the grill. Plus, they’ll cook faster,” he says.

Use a leave-in probe thermometer with your breads.

Lean-dough breads are done when the internal temperature reaches 190–210 degrees while rich doughs are done between 180–190 degrees.

Accuracy matters in candy making. “When sugar is cooking on your stove, you need up-to-the-second accurate temperature measurements to know when you get to the right concentration,” he says. “Use a thermometer with thin geometry that won’t encourage crystal growth, unlike grandma’s big metal fin thermometer.” When frying foods, clip a digital thermometer to the side of your pot to know exactly when you get to 375 degrees to fry up hand-cut fries to serve alongside your favorite grilled meats. (HLK) ❖ 741 E. 930 South, American Fork 801-756-7705 ThermoWorks.com

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Barbecue Issue

Sizzlin' Seasonings

Lavish your summer herbs on grilled meats and veggies

W

BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON

hen firing up the grill, you can dramatically enhance your meat by using fresh herbs.

Their flavors hold up surprisingly well, even with a bit of char. Combine them in a marinade, smear them on in a paste or rub, or even use the woody stems of rosemary or sage to make kabobs. It’s best to use herbs with bolder tastes rather than delicate ones like parsley, to ensure the flavor doesn’t go up in smoke.

Herb-Marinated Chicken

BRITTANY BLAIRE

BRITTANY BLAIRE

Grilled Veggies

Herb-Marinated Chicken or Shrimp

Bold Fresh-Herb Rub

INGREDIENTS 2 crushed garlic cloves 1/3 cup chives, chopped 6 leaves fresh lemon verbena, chopped leaves from 4 sprigs of lemon thyme, chopped leaves from 4 fresh sprigs of mint, chopped leaves from 4 fresh sprigs of bee balm (Monarda) or oregano, chopped juice from 1 lemon 1/3 cup white wine ½ cup olive oil

For chops and vegetables INGREDIENTS 1 tablespoon cinnamon or sweet basil 1 tablespoon fresh mint 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon fresh garden sage 1 diced shallot clove 1 crushed garlic clove 1 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon red wine 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon oil

4 skinned chicken breasts (halved crossways, if so desired) or 1 pound of shrimp Salt and pepper may be added after grilling, if desired METHOD Combine marinade ingredients into a large resealable bag. Add chicken or shrimp and marinate for at least one hour, turning a few times. Allow the clinging herb bits to remain on the food when grilling. Serve whole or shred into a pasta dish or salad.

AUGUST 20182018 34 Devour Utah • May

METHOD Finely chop cinnamon, sweet basil, mint, rosemary and sage. Add remaining ingredients in a bowl and let stand at room temperature for at least 15 minutes.

Smear on 1 pound beef steak, pork or lamb chops, and/or cubed root veggies like potatoes, red onion, beets, carrots and parsnips that can be roasted in a pan directly on the grill. ❖

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Barbecue Issue

Wine & Grill Time Sommeliers pick what goes in their glass when the embers are glowing

BY DARBY DOYLE

Jim Santangelo SOMMELIER, WINE ACADEMY OF UTAH Grilled sausage with Hugl’s Grüner Veltliner from Austria.

“Bursts of citrus and grapefruit with the body of a Chard,” Santangelo says. “The perfect summer quencher.”

Foil-wrapped lemon-herb salmon with House Winery sparkling rosé in the can. “It’s fresh and juicy bursting with crisp citrus and ripe strawberry fruits. Delicious on its own, at a concert or in the backyard,” he says.

Perfect summer quencher

Fresh and juicy

The richer, the better

Barbecue-sauced glazed meats with a big bold California red.

“The richer the better!” he says. “When you get to slathering and caramelizing barbecue sauce on either chicken or beef, grab a bottle of Skylark Red Belly from Mendocino County or kick it up a notch with the Conundrum red blend started by Caymus winery. The deep ripe fruit flavors and needed tannins stand up to rich barbecue flavors.”

Kirsten Fox SOMMELIER, FOX SCHOOL OF WINE Malbec from Argentina with grilled steaks. “Basically a poor person’s cabernet,” Fox says, “with black fruits, leathers and ripe tannins, this type of wine is a perfect partner to grilled meats. A great value because it is drinkable very young.”

South African pinotage with smoked pork ribs. “The love child of pinot noir and cinsaut—which used to be known as hermitage, hence the “Pinot-age” name. Medium weight, smoky from the South African soil. The high tannins cut through the richness of smoked meat and offer rich tobacco and dark fruits like blackberry,” she says.

Perfect with grilled meat

Try with smoked pork ribs

36 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

Fun way to end a dinner

Moscato d’Asti from Italy and grilled peaches for dessert.

“Aromas and flavors of sweet peaches, oranges and flowers compliment the caramelized fruit, yet with a crispness and great texture of bubbles to play around in your mouth,” she says. “A fun way to end a dinner.” ❖

Devour Utah • May 2018 36

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Barbecue Issue

SERIOUS SMOKING

From backyards to casino parking lots, barbecue competitions are a taste of (hog) heaven

COURTESY PHOTOS

JESSE JOHNSON

A

s owner of Great Western BBQ Events, Jesse Johnson produces barbecue competitions in the Utah area, including the upcoming 2018 Wild West BBQ Shoot Out scheduled Saturday, Aug. 25, noon-6 p.m. in West Wendover, Nev. Around 50 or so competitors are expected, of which about a third will be from Utah. Previous years have seen teams from Florida, Virginia and California, even Australia. The Shoot Out attracts a crowd of 3,000 to 5,000 coming to watch the competition and taste the results.

To watch is free, but to taste the ’cue, prices range from $10 to $30 for a full slab of ribs.

What are typical competitors like? Are they usually professional chefs in the food-service industry?

They come from all walks of life—very few are food professionals. Most start as backyard pitmasters.

Are these competitions an expensive hobby for most?

Pitmasters will spend between $300 to $1,000 per competition, depending on entry fees, meat costs and travel expenses. If they win, a typical local competition has a $3,000 to $10,000 prize purse.

Why do they do it? What drives competitors?

The pure love of making barbecue way better than you can get at a local barbecue restaurant! And the chance to win—take home trophies and some prize money!

38 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

Is there a regional type of barbecue that is more apt to win at these events? (i.e., Texas, Memphis and Carolina styles) Nope. Most teams do not change their flavor profiles event when they travel. Stick to the flavors that win. Cook the meats properly, to perfect doneness.

Who is asked to judge these events?

All are CBJs (certified barbecue judges), certified by the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KSBS). They have to go through a four-hour certification class to be a judge. We have judges that come from all over the U.S. and abroad but probably a little over half are from Utah.

What are judges looking for?

They judge on three criteria: appearance, taste and tenderness (with taste weighted the heaviest).

What style is most popular in Utah?

Utah likes sweet with a touch of heat on the backend.

Do competitors help each other out as the need arises? Or are they more likely to prank each other?

Absolutely both! LOL! The pro barbecue community is a fun, tight-knit group of folks who would give you the shirt off their back!

We do a good luck toast at all events wishing everyone well after we play the national anthem at 9:11 a.m. on Saturdays. These folks are very patriotic!

If a novice pitmaster wanted to get started in competitive barbecue, what type of investment is required?

I started off with two UDS (Ugly Drum Smokers) at $200 each and built from there. Much of what you need, a beginner might have at home just to cook. You can build up your barbecue tools over time. You’ll need a 10 x 10 tent, a table, knives, etc. I didn’t even have a 10 x 10 tent at my first competition and won reserve grand champion (second place overall).

How can aspiring pitmasters learn more?

They can follow Great Western BBQ Events or Utah BBQ Org at Facebook.com/ GreatWesternBBQEvents. They can come out to a pro-barbecue event and talk to the teams; most pitmasters are eager to help new folks. Or they can enter a backyard barbecue competition and start there. There are two to three of those per year in Utah, too.

Would a past winner be willing to share a recipe or technique?

Sure, but that would be called “shiggin’.” I also provide recipes when I teach at BBQ Pit Stop or at Traeger’s SLC worldwide headquarters. ❖ —By Jerre Wroble

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Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 39

Barbecue Issue

NOT YOUR ’90S WINE SPRITZER

Festive wine-based bevvies for summer sipping

French 75 spritzer

FRENCH 75 Named after the French 75mm WWI field artillery gun, this gin-and-bubbly-based cocktail packs a wallop. Using grilled lemon slices as garnish brings a nice smoky element to summer soirées. Makes one cocktail.

1 ½ ounces London dry gin ½ teaspoon superfine (bakers) sugar ½ ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice 3-4 ounces brut Champagne 1 lemon, sliced into ¼-inch rounds (makes enough garnish for 4-5 cocktails) METHOD Flash grill lemon slices over med-high flames, turning once to get good grill marks and some char on both sides. Remove from heat and reserve until ready to make the cocktails (can be made several hours in advance).

To a shaker with ice add the gin, sugar and lemon juice. Shake until tin is frosty, and strain into a chilled Champagne flute. Fill to the brim with Champagne.

Garnish with a grilled lemon wheel.

40 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

Strawberrypeach punch

STRAWBERRY PEACH PUNCH A cross between white sangria and lower-alcohol punch, this fruity beverage is a pretty addition to any party. Pro tip: To keep the punch from getting diluted, use an additional bottle of wine (instead of water) to make large ice cubes with pieces of fruit and mint leaves frozen into them. Makes about 10 cups.

1 pound strawberries, hulled and sliced 2-3 fresh peaches, pitted and sliced into thin wedges 1 lemon, sliced into rounds 1 cara cara or navel orange, sliced into rounds ½ cup limoncello (Italian lemon liqueur) ½ cup orange curaçao or triple sec 1 bottle dry light white wine (such as Vinho Verde) 8-10 fresh mint leaves 2 cups chilled club soda METHOD At least two hours before serving (or the night before), add all of the fruit and booze to a large punch bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator until just before serving. Right before the party starts, add the club soda, mint leaves and festive ice cubes. ❖ —Words and photos by Darby Doyle

Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 41

Barbecue Issue

Terry Jones’ sculpture is made from found objects

the

Spread Bandits’ Grill & Bar in Cottonwood Heights

T

he horse head sculpture inside Bandits’ Grill and Bar is assembled from found objects from our nation’s past, sculptor Terry Jones explains. “People can recognize padlocks, a sparkplug and wrenches,” the Texas artist says, naming some of the objects he incorporated. “Artifacts bring back memories. Someone might say, ‘My granddad used a hammer like that.’”

42 Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018

BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL PHOTOS BY NIKI CHAN

The sculpture introduces the feeling of a welcoming, comfortable inn that is the essence of Bandits. The eatery bears a contemporary mountain feel.

Warm reds and browns and touches of stone and brick provide bright accents for the concrete walls. The indoor-outdoor bar features a garagestyle door that opens up to the patio, “where you can belly up to the bar and still be outside,” owner Shane Barber

says. He explains that his partner Ron Parker created the Bandits’ brand when the two opened the first Bandits’ in Southern California in 2003. Barber moved to Park City and operated a Bandits’ there before launching the Cottonwood Heights location in 2015.

“I’m a service-oriented owner,” Barber makes a point of saying. “My staff is like a family to me. There is no way I can do what I do alone.”

Bandits’ fire pit on the outdoor deck

Original Tri-tip sandwich

Bandits owner Shane Barber

Tri-tip steak and Six Gun salmon

Desperado Margarita

Tri-tip steak is the pillar of the menu.

“We begin with Midwestern choice beef that is always fresh. A little salt and pepper is all we add to the tri-tip,” Barber says. Along with steaks, chicken sandwiches and a variety of burgers, seafood and fresh salads round out the menu. Kids can order smaller portions of Bandits’ flagship items from the children’s menu. The Desperado Margarita, featuring Herradura silver tequila and

Patron citronage is the most popular drink from a full bar that includes a variety of mule drinks and local beer from Epic Brewery and Shades of Pale. “All of our desserts are homemade—everything from a brownie s’more to a seasonal cobbler.

We make everything from scratch,” Barber says. “We enjoy being up in the Utah mountains—it’s a beautiful place to work and live.” ❖ Bandits’ Grill & Bar 3176 E. 6200 South, Cottonwood Heights

801-944-0505 BanditsBBQ.com

Devour Utah • AUGUST 2018 43

Barbecue Issue

HERBIVORE GRILL

BY AMANDA ROCK

H

eat up the grill: There’s a new wave of meatless meats that promise flavor and texture, all without animal flesh. Say goodbye to sad, frozen veggie burgers—here are some plant-based meats that are sure to whet your appetite.

Take a stroll through your neighborhood Whole Foods Market’s meat section. You might be surprised to find two vegan products from Beyond Meat: the Beyond Burger and the Beyond Sausage. Located in the meat section to tempt meat-eaters into thinking differently about vegan options, these selections are made with pea protein instead of the usual soy or gluten. Most importantly, the burgers and sausages look and taste great.

You might have already heard about the Beyond Burger. It was lauded as the veggie burger that bleeds—a clever use of beet juice that gives the burger a familiar pink hue. Two pre-formed patties come in a package and sell for around $6. Uncooked, the burgers look like pink, raw hamburger—eerily close to a real hamburger.

Like real ground beef, the pink browns as the burgers cook. When you bite into the burger, you see the pink center, and your mouth is filled with juicy “beef” with a smoky, umami flavor.

44 Devour Utah • august 2018

COURTESY HERBIVOROUS BUTCHER

COURTESY BEYOND BURGER

COURTESY BEYOND BURGER

These vegan “meats” bring the big BBQ flavor

If you prefer sausages to burgers for grilling, you’re in luck.

The Beyond Sausage launched this year; it’s the world’s first fresh, plant-based sausage. It comes in three flavors: sweet Italian, hot Italian and bratwurst. The casing is made from algae and is similar to animal-based casings, giving that first juicy bite the pop you’re expecting. Throw them on the grill and watch them sizzle.

For those who think the phrase “vegan meat” is an oxymoron, wait until you visit The Herbivorous Butcher (TheHerbivorousButcher.com), an online vegan butcher shop based in Minneapolis offering a range of meatless meats and dairy-free cheeses. Here you can find everything from pastrami to jerk chicken—all made in small batches.

Since there’s no vegan butcher in Salt Lake (yet!), for your summer barbecues, consider ordering Herbivorous Butcher’s summer grill pack that comes with beer brats, bacon brats, Hawaiian huli-huli ribs and rib-eye, all for $90, which includes shipping in an insulated packaged with extra ice packs to ensure freshness. (Continued on p. 47)

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Barbecue Issue

JOHN TAYLOR

ICE KEIN HAUS VEGA FLEISCH N BU RGER

(Continued from p. 44)

“When it comes to grilling, take it low and slow,” advises Kale Walch, who, along with his sister, Aubry, are the masterminds behind Herbivorous Butcher. “Vegan meats are already cooked, so it’s about focusing on enhancing the flavor as opposed to cooking out food-borne illness. It can help to add a marinade, brush on a little oil, or add extra sauce to help keep the meats from drying out.”

It’s possible to sample Herbivorous Butcher’s artisanal vegan meats locally by attending the Vegan Meat-Up every Friday night at Ice Haus (7 E. 4800 South, Murray, 801-2662127, IceHausBar.com). Also, Ogden’s Harp and Hound (2550 Washington Blvd., Ogden, 801-621-3483, Facebook.com/ harpnhound) features a different cut of Herbivorous Butcher meats at its Vegan Saturday Nights in addition to a menu full of craveable vegan options.

Dave Morris, the man behind the meaty vegan menus at Ice Haus, Harp and Hound and Piper Down (1492 S. State, SLC, 801-468-1492, PiperDownPub.com), offers some tips on grilling vegan meats.

“The key to grilling vegan meats is fat,” he says. “Vegan

meats do not have a lot of fat oozing out on a grill like wellmarbled animal flesh does, so it’s important to keep it juicy.”

He keeps olive oil in a pump sprayer and uses it to season the grill and spray both sides of the meat. “You should have a shiny charred masterpiece to serve, not a sad, dry piece of wheat-meat,” Morris says.

Secondly, he says, cook vegan meats as though you were cooking animal meat medium-rare. You’re just trying to warm the insides. “The point of grilling is to give the meat smoky flavor, leave cool-looking grill marks and use that freaking $800 grill you bought the year before you went vegan,” Morris says.

Finally, he says, pick a good product. When he is feeling opulently carnivorous, he grills Herbivorous Butcher’s rib-eyes, filet mignons, smokehouse barbecue ribs and Korean barbecue ribs. “It’s expensive, and shipping is a pain, but you’ll enjoy the excitement when that chilled shipping box comes to your door,” Morris says.

And on regular days, his go-tos are Field Roast hot dogs and Beyond Meat burgers. ❖

Sizzle on!

Devour Utah • august 2018

47

Barbecue Issue

PIZZA BARBIE

BY DIANE HARTFORD

DIANE HARTFORD

ON THE No need to order pizza when you have a hot grill in your backyard

WE GET IT: It’s summer, and who wants to heat up the oven to cook a pizza? But why would you when you have the perfect pizza oven in your backyard? That’s right, your barbecue grill.

Grilling pizza keeps you outside where the action is and results in a crispy crust similar to what you get in a wood-fired oven.

First, arrange all the ingredients below including pizza dough, sauce and toppings. Set the toppings in small bowls on a tray placed near the grill. A pizza peel helps slide the pizza on and off the grill easily.

Once the dough hits the grill, things move pretty fast. The grill needs to be spotlessly clean and hot to produce a charred and crunchy crust. Eight ounces of dough yields about an 8- or 9-inch round pizza. Store-bought pizza dough can be used or prepare it from scratch using the recipe on page 50.

48 Devour Utah • august 2018

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49

Barbecue Issue Continued from p. 48

PIZZA DOUGH RECIPE

Slide dough onto an oiled grill and cook for two to three minutes

(makes enough dough for two pizzas)

INGREDIENTS

DIANE HARTFORD

1/2 cup water warm 1 teaspoon sugar 2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast (1 package) 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup olive oil

METHOD

Combine warm water, sugar and yeast in a small bowl and whisk to combine. Let sit for 5-10 minutes.

In the bowl of stand mixer outfitted with a dough hook, combine flour, salt, olive oil and yeast mixture. Mix for 5 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic and comes away from the sides of the bowl.

Place dough in an oiled bowl turning once to coat both sides of the dough with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

When pizza has grill marks, remove from heat and spread sauce and toppings on the grilled side

STEPS TO GRILLING A PIZZA

DIANE HARTFORD

Turn grill on high and pre-heat for 15 minutes. Clean grill thoroughly with a grill brush. Lower heat to medium-high (aiming for about 425 degrees).

Cover and cook until pizza has grill marks on both sides and cheese is melted

Pour a little olive oil onto a paper towel and using a long pair of tongs carefully wipe paper towel on grill grates to help prevent the dough from sticking.

For each pizza, have ready 8 ounces pizza dough, sauces, cheeses and toppings (see options below)

Slide the dough from the peel or baking sheet on the grill. Close the grill lid and let cook for 2-3 minutes. When the crust starts to bubble around the edges and has grill marks on the bottom remove pizza dough from grill back onto pizza peel or baking sheet.

Spread a thin layer of sauce, toppings, and cheese on the grilled side of the pizza and return to grill the other side of the dough. Cover and cook through until the pizza dough has grill marks on both sides and the cheese is melted.

Remove from grill and let rest a few minutes before slicing.

Clean and oil grill before grilling any additional pizzas. The pizzas cook very quickly, so it’s easy to keep them coming off the grill to feed hungry guests.

50 Devour Utah • august 2018

DIANE HARTFORD

Roll out dough on a floured pizza peel or baking sheet into a circle or oval. If dough doesn’t roll easily, let rest for 10 minutes and then try again.

OPTIONS Sauces: tomato sauce, pesto, hummus, Thai peanut sauce, plain or flavored olive oils Cheese: shredded mozzarella, fontina, gruyere, feta, goat cheese, burrata or Parmesan Vegetables: sautéed mushroom, onions or greens; roasted fennel or broccoli, grilled corn, tomatoes, summer squash, shredded carrot and artichoke hearts Garnish: herbs, arugula, scallions, crumbled sausage or bacon, nuts, crushed red pepper flakes

DELICIOUS PIZZA COMBINATIONS Greek: tomato sauce, cherry tomatoes, feta, red onion, olives, spinach Italian: tomato sauce, Italian sausage, sautéed peppers and onions, and goat cheese Veggie-lover: tomato sauce, sautéed mushrooms, onions and Swiss chard, topped with mozzarella Pesto: pesto sauce, roasted fennel, mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, fontina and pine nuts ❖

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Devour Utah • august 2018

51

Barbecue Issue

Smoked Sausage

Plate it

Kaiser’s Texas Bar-B-Q & General Store

N

orth of San Antonio is a small Texas town known as Boerne (pronounced Bernie), known for its German heritage. Here, you’ll hear performances by a German band (the Boerne Village Band) and travel a Main Street called Haupstrasse.

Gregg Chamberlain grew up in Boerne raising hogs, sheep and cows, and eating barbecue that reflected the area’s German roots.

52 Devour Utah • august 2018

BY JERRE WROBLE PHOTOS BY SARAH ARNOFF

On a road trip driving through Utah in 1990, he decided to stay and ski and never returned to Texas. But the Lone Star State’s loss would soon became Utah’s gain.

Chamberlain not only loves Texas barbecue but also swap meets, and that’s where he met Margaret Nakagiri, his work and life partner of 13 years. His mutual passions for’cue and collectibles converged when he opened Kaiser’s

Texas Bar-B-Q and General Store, a former butcher shop on 300 West, now filled with pottery, rugs, wrought-iron ornaments and assorted kitsch.

Kaiser is the German word for emperor, just in case the German connection hasn’t sunk in. And what emperor could resist Chamberlain’s house-made sausage that he prepares every Monday? “It takes the most time of all our meats,” he says.

Your hosts: Gregg Chamberlain & Margaret Nakagiri

A taste of Texas: Kaiser’s chicken , ribs and sausage

While most sausage is made with meat scraps left over after the premium cuts of meat are removed, Chamberlain actually uses top-quality cuts of meat for his sausage, including pork butts and beef eye of rounds. After he cuts and grinds the meat, he seasons it with garlic, ground mustard, paprika, salt and pepper. (For his spicy sausage, he adds jalapeno and cheddar).

He then lets the mixture rest overnight. The next morning, he stuffs the meat into 10-

Jalapeño poppers

inch casings and smokes the sausages for an hour at 200 degrees on oak wood, which, he says, imparts a sweeter flavor.

Chamberlain’s smoked sausage served on a hoagie roll runs $6.45 (and can easily be shared). For $8.49, you can order two sides to go with it. Slather with Kaiser’s BBQ sauce or mustard at will. ❖ 962 S. 300 West, SLC 801-355-0499 KaisersBBQ.com Devour Utah • august 2018

53

Devour This | Recipes

NILSA CARTER

CHICKEN RUB INGREDIENTS 3 tablespoons garlic salt 3 tablespoons adobo ½ teaspoon black or white pepper 2 tablespoons of oregano ¼ cup of chili powder

Grill master Larry Carter

BY JERRE WROBLE

Larry Carter’s Beer-Can Chicken

F

or more than 15 years, Larry Carter served as circulation manager for City Weekly, where he was the point person for distributing City Weekly as well as Devour Utah and other magazines along the Wasatch Front.

To thank his hardworking drivers, Carter began hosting a summer barbecue that became so popular, he continues hosting his annual bash even though he now works for the Salt Lake County Library.

While his barbecued ribs are legendary (“I’m a griller, not a smoker,” he notes), his beer-can chicken is a family favorite.

Carter got his love of barbecue from his father and a neighbor, both Houston natives who grilled exclusively with charcoal. Carter read up on charcoal and now uses Stubb’s All Natural charcoal (available at Lowe’s) as a healthier alternative. “For extra added flavor, I will throw on a small piece of hickory to the hot briquettes,” he says, but he’s been known to also use mesquite and even pecan.

For his ribs, Carter shops at Stan’s Market (4195 W. 5415 South, Kearns, 801-969-7293, StansMarket.com), where Leo the butcher “cracks my ribs for me.”

For the beer-can chicken, Carter starts with a large whole Tyson roasting chicken, and he trims off any fat. He thoroughly rinses it and removes the neck and organ meats.

He doesn’t brine the chicken, he says. “I just give it a good wash, then pat dry. I scrub out my kitchen sink and put the chicken in it. Then I season the bird, inside and out.”

54 Devour Utah • august 2018

Place halffull can into bird’s cavity

PROCESS Arrange the briquets in a pyramid. Open all grill vents and leave grill uncovered. If using lighter fluid, follow instructions.

When briquets are ashed over (in approximately 10 minutes), spread briquets evenly, then wait five minutes until the coals are ready to cook over.

Place the seasoned bird over a half-full 12-ounce can of cheap beer—Miller or Bud works fine. (Note: A 16-ounce can is too tall.) Slide it into the bird’s cavity and pull the legs forward to balance the upright bird.

Place some aluminum foil (shiny side down) over the grill’s rack then set the bird on the foil. Close the lid over the chicken and let it slowly roast for two hours. At that time, check the temperature of the bird and make sure the dark meat is at 168 degrees Fahrenheit before removing from the heat.

Let bird cool for 10 minutes before removing from can and slicing meat into serving pieces. ❖

Place bird on foil

Ready to serve: Carved chicken

Roast bird for two hours

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Devour Utah • august 2018

55

Spirit Guide

Wine in

Park City Mines & Wines Tour

COURTESY FOX SCHOOL OF WINE

Zion

Demystifying the grape, one glass at a time

BY DARBY DOYLE

56 Devour Utah • august 2018

Sip and learn

COURTESY FOX SCHOOL OF WINE

E

verybody calm down!” implores sommelier Jim Santangelo when talking about the wine world’s pervasive reputation for overcomplicating vino wisdom. “It’s just pinot noir!”

As someone who’s been working in the food and beverage biz for most of his life, Santangelo strongly believes everyone from consumers to restaurant managers benefits when wine is made more approachable. Whether teaching one of his popular wine classes, certifying new sommeliers or at a restaurant with a wine list he’s personally curated, his goal is the same: “I want people to love being there and want them to be happy. Wine brings people together.”

Francis Fecteau, proprietor of SLC-based Libation, agrees that it’s an exciting time to work in spirits education. Fecteau opines that traditionally the wine industry hasn’t done itself any favors by making selecting and enjoying wine much more complicated than it needs to be. He applauds any and all efforts to “de-fang the vocabulary” of wine terminology, by giving both customers and servers a common language for getting in the glass that people want to drink. “You recognize good wine when it puts a smile on your face,” Fecteau says.

Ready to elevate your wine experience? There’s no shortage of opportunities to up your grape knowhow, from casual community get-togethers to serious sommelier-level certification programs. And if my own experiences with these educators are any indication, you’ll have a helluva good time along the way.

PARK CITY MINES & WINES TOUR During a comprehensive—and incredibly entertaining—three-hour chauffeured tour, sommelier and “Headmistress of Wine” Kirsten Fox leads groups of happy imbibers to six historic locations around Park City. At each stop, Fox School of Wine staff share their expertise on wines from all over the world as well as Park City’s rich mining history, pairing libations to both the historical location and with thoughtfully selected snacks. I was hooked from the first glass of bubbly served at the tour’s starting point at Deer Valley’s Montage: a Gloria Ferrer ’09 Royal Cuvée from Caneros, California sipped while overlooking the historic remains of the No. 1 Daly West Mine.

By the tour’s final stop along what used to be the mining camp’s red light district, the dozen members of our group were wearing feather boas and toasting our new friendship with a Warres 20-year Tawny

COURTESY FOX SCHOOL OF WINE

‘Headmistress of Wine’ Kirsten Fox, left

A three-hour chauffeured tour includes stops at six historic locations

COURTESY FOX SCHOOL OF WINE

THE GANG AWAITS

Port from Operto, Portugal. Check the Fox School of Wine website to register for the year-round tours (held in all weather— dress appropriately!), which occur several times a month. The school also offers other fun wine education events, like American Cheeses & Wines and popular one-hour Weekend Wine Series topics held each Saturday night at the Silver Baron Lodge in lower Deer Valley.

Fox School of Wine 435-655-9463 FoxSchoolOfWine.com

NOW OPEN Noon - 2am Daily LIVE MUSIC WEEKLY 1215 east Wilmington Avenue, Suite 120 | ruinslc.com Devour Utah • august 2018

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Spirit Guide

CAPUTO’S MARKET CLASSES Word to the wise: Fecteau’s wine classes at Caputo’s fill up fast. As one of the most entertaining and candid wine educators in this town of very talented spirits specialists, Fecteau’s style is memorable, to say the least. “Traditional sommelier training drives me f—ing nutty,” Fecteau says. He perceives the industry over-emphasizes persnickety food-and-wine pairing and flowery descriptors. “Wine is an agricultural product. It’s all about the environment and how that particular place makes a great tasting wine,” he says. Both his culinary background and bootson-the-ground experience working alongside winemakers in California shines through in his emphasis on making connections between where, why and how wine is produced, long before it ends up in a fancy glass. Or a coffee mug. He’s not judging.

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

Francis Fecteau Libation

COURTESY SHERAL SCHOWE

Sheral Schowe Wasatch Wine Academy

Caputos.com Libation-Online.com

HARMONS MARKET CLASSES Awarded Wine Scholar Guild Instructor of the Year in 2016, sommelier Sheral Schowe has a dedicated following. Students range from vino hobbyists to serious wine scholars graduating from her Italian wine and French wine certification programs. As an introduction to her style and knowledge base, Schowe has been instructing tasting classes at Harmons locations for several years, with popular offerings like Wines and Cheeses of the Pacific Northwest, chef’s table wine dinners, and, a fun look into her personal cellar of collectable rarities, the Premium Wine Club lunch hour held once a month.

HarmonsGrocery.com/classes WasatchWineAcademy.com

Devour Utah • august 2018

59

Spirit Guide

UNIVERSITY OF UTAH LIFELONG LEARNING Some of the most diverse wine and spirits education programming in the state can be found through the U’s continuing education curriculum, with classes taught by experts such as Jim Santangelo, Sheral Schowe and others (including yours truly!) There’s even opportunities to learn about making your own fruit wines, such as the course taught by Cody Mckendrick at Salt City Brew Supply about this fascinating homebrew niche.

Jim Santangelo The Wine Academy of Utah

Continue.Utah.edu/lifelong/classes

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

MASTERCLASS UTAH WINE SERIES Based in Milan, Italy, and Salt Lake City, Terrestoria Wines founder Stephanie Cuadra shines a spotlight on women-led wineries and lesser-known indie wines.

With this unique approach, Terrestoria’s sold-out tasting events bring some exciting new energy to Utah’s wine world.

Recently, Cuadra collaborated with Tracey Thompson of local brokerage Vine Lore to develop an in-depth multievent wine education masterclass, with sold-out dinners and rave reviews.

Cuadra’s mission? To celebrate smallscale producers in Italy, Spain and the U.S. who have not been traditionally recognized outside their regions, and to champion inclusivity in the industry by introducing wines from small independent and women-run estates.

Terrestoria Wine Imports Terrestoria.com/wine-events

WINE & DINE

From intimate events with lots of Q&A to more formal wine education experiences, check out these venues to up your vino knowledge

BTG WINE BAR It’s the O.G. wine bar for a reason.

By The Glass is SLC’s first and arguably finest specifically winefocused establishment. We’re excited to visit their new location opening some time this month (until then, visit them at 63 W. 100 South). New location: 404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-3592814, BTGWineBar.com 60 Devour Utah • august 2018

PAGO Wine Enthusiast has twice recognized Pago with the prestigious America’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants award. Owner and sommelier Scott Evans’ commitment to including small producers who focus on sustainable winemaking practices and authenticity makes Pago’s wine list a treat to sample. Keep an eye out for exclusive visiting winemaker dinners, too. 878 S. 900 East, SLC,801-532-0777, PagoSLC.com

STANZA ITALIAN BISTRO & WINE BAR Stanza’s wine list is decidedly Italianforward, but they’re also bringing in winemakers from less well-known regions for exciting tasting dinners. Just want a glass after work? Order the Zion bread plate ($2) and chat up sommelier/ lead bartender Kelson Westervelt for some captivating vino lingo. 454 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-746-4441, StanzaSLC.com

JOHN TAYLOR

Dean Pierose Cucina Wine Bar

LA CAILLE While many will be familiar with this Utah fine dining institution as a beautiful venue for weddings and celebrations, you might be surprised to learn that La Caille also offers seven proprietary Château La Caille Wines. Their own Utah estate-produced Seyval Blanc is made with grapes grown near the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon (call ahead to schedule a private tasting). 9565 Wasatch Blvd., Sandy, 801-942-1751, LaCaille.com WE OLIVE The small but selective wine list curated by co-owner and chef Josh Garcia is great with sharable small plates. This Trolley Square spot also hosts wine and paint nights weekly and a meet the maker tasting series. 602 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-448-7489, WeOlive.com/salt-lake-city PARK CITY CULINARY INSTITUTE At the Salt Lake City branch of PCCI, keep an eye out for spots at their popular Chef Tasting Table series, which brings in prominent local chefs and institute faculty for multi-course wine pairing dinners. 1484 S. State, SLC, 801-413-2800, ParkCityCulinaryInstitute.com

LIBATIONS AT THE LEO As part of the grown-ups only after dark special events programming at The Leonardo museum, wine educator Jim Santangelo highlights four to five thematic wines with chef-prepared multiple course dinners or smallplates pairings. 209 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-531-9800, TheLeonardo.org CUCINA WINE BAR At this gem of a spot in the Avenues, you’ll find 60 wines available by the glass, and an extensive wine list overall. Restaurant owner Dean Pierose frequently hosts winemakers for tasting dinners, like a recent cozy Willamette Valley Vineyards tasting with brand ambassador Wende Bennette. 1026 E. Second Ave., SLC, 801-322-3055, CucinaSLC.com COGNITION WINERY Although you can buy Cognition wine at the Park City tasting room and gift shop at 225 Main (open Wednesdays and Thursdays noon-6 p.m.), you’ll usually find sommelier and vinter Dennis Romankowski at the High Altitude Tasting Room attached to the winery on Iron Horse Drive.

This venue also hosts weekly live music, a sunny patio and is available for private tasting events. 1260 Iron Horse Drive, Park City, 435-640-3206, CognitionWinery.com Devour Utah • august 2018

61

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

T

he flames of summer are definitely being fanned and temperature’s are rising.

Summer is a busy season for Utah restaurants and we are working to keep the Utah restaurant industry and food community hotter than ever!

We understand the importance of knowing how to cook with fire, and things are getting ready to heat up on the set of TeenChef Pro as we rev up our production for season four. The series features 12 teen chef hopefuls using Utah ProStart rules and curriculum — as the vie for a place to be mentored by three of Utah’s hottest chef. This season features our first female MentorChef Jodie Rogers, of Deer Valley Resort, along with season three alum, Justin Shifflett of Stoneground Kitchen and newcomer Tyler Stokes with Provisions. The teens are also competing for a four year scholarship to Johnson & Wales University and beginning their career towards becoming a professional chef.

The catch? They can only use a single flame. Catch all the delicious action this October on ABC 4 KVTX every Sunday morning at 9:00AM. Our fourth season of Taste Utah may have just come to end but we keep you in the know with our Taste Utah Bytes airing during ABC4 midday news. We are always keeping it cool by providing Taste Utah foodies with the latest and greatest restaurants to get and try while getting amazing tips from chefs on how to execute like a pro.

Our annual fundraiser and golf tournament took place in the beautiful, crisp mountain air of Midway’s Crater Springs golf course.

These events are critical for the industry as it gives us time to come together, network and take a well deserved breather.

With activities like ProStart teacher training, ServSafe Manager and food handler classes, alcohol training, working with local regulatory agencies, advocating for our industry and preparing for next years legislative session, we know some like it hot but at the URA, we prefer it fierce! ✜

62 Devour Utah • august 2018

Some Like It

!

T O H

!

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

CHEF JOEY FERRAN

TASTE UTAH BYTES BRINGS YOU A TASTE UTAH TIP! Straight from Head Chef Joey Ferran of Cucina Wine Bar Summer Grilling: “When it comes to grilling fruit, keep it free and clear of oils.

Oils can actually catch fire and leave your fruit tasting like petroleum. In fact fruit doesn’t need more than a little salt and pepper to bring out the natural sugars and distinct sweet or citrus notes.

Keep it simple on the grill, then build the plate around your grilling masterpiece.

For more Taste Utah Tips tune into ABC Good 4 Utah Midday News weekdays at 11:00AM. Taste Utah’s Katy and Jami stop by Utah Restaurants and get the inside scoop from Utah’s restaurateurs, chefs and bartenders. For more visit www.Taste UT.com

Devour Utah • august 2018

63

TeenChef Pro Season Four Coming October 2018 on ABC 4 KUTX Sundays at 9:00AM.

MentorChef Justin Shifflett Stoneground Kitchen

MentorChef Jodie Rogers Deer Valley Resort

MentorChef Tyler Stokes Provisions

Join 12 aspiring Utah teen chefs as they compete for the opportunity of a lifetime: a four-year scholarship to Johnson & Wales University and the ultimate title of TeenChef Pro winner.

Mentored by 3 of Utah’s hottest chefs; MentorChef Justin Shifflett of Stoneground Kitchen, MentorChef Jodie Rogers of Deer Valley Resort and MentorChef Tyler Stokes of Provisions and hosted by Utah favorite Michael McHenry CEO of Even Stevens. Each week the aspiring TeenChefs are introduced to culinary themes, guest judges and the culinary curveball. Can these TeenChefs take the HEAT and make the cut? Don’t miss Season 4 of TeenChef Pro!

3 of Utah’s Hottest Chefs 2 Burners 1 Dream No Electricity… No Problem 64 Devour Utah • august 2018

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

A special thank you to the 2018 Utah Restaurant Association & ACF Beehive Chefs Chapter Annual Golf Tournament Sponsors!

Major Sponsors: Chuck A Rama Dairy West Del Taco Heartland Payment Systems Nicholas & Co Sysco Wendy’s Workers Compensation Fund Tee / Hole Sponsors: AJ Gallagher Insurance Arctic Circle Biz Wear Bintz Restaurant Supply Cossini Bros Current Promotions Day Clark - Farmers Insurance Devour Utah Magazine Even Stevens Gastronomy IHOP Log Haven McDonalds Model Linen Pacific Seafood Real Salt Red Rock Brewery Ruth’s Chris - Park City Salt Lake Community College Uinta Brewing US Foods

We T han

k You

Devour Utah • august 2018

65

Last Bite

DEREK CARLISLE

Bourbon House’s Juicy Lucy

Juicy Lucy

Bite into Minnesota’s singular burger to find its heart of gold

BY HEATHER L. KING

E

very state has a food they are famous for—a culinary curiosity that links history or heritage—like funeral potatoes in Utah.

In Minnesota, the Land of 10,000 Lakes, you’ll find the battle for the best state food raging mightily around the Juicy Lucy.

The Juicy Lucy is a burger that’s stuffed with American cheese (and many other things) to create a grease-filled monster cheeseburger the likes of which few but Minnesotans have seen before. They typically come with a warning to let them cool before taking your first bite, or the melted cheese and grease will burn you. It’s worth waiting for, though.

Allegiances to exactly where the Juicy Lucy was first served in the Gopher state and who currently makes the best version are weighty. Having spent time in Minneapolis during several business trips this year, I made it my mission to put the Juicy Lucy to the test—sampling versions both new and old.

New to the Juicy Lucy scene is The Blue Door—home of the Blucy—patties filled with blue cheese and garlic and eight other varieties of stuffed burgers. Given my love of blue cheese and the proliferation of locations around the Twin Cities, it was a solid entrance into the Juicy Lucy scene, although the meat around the scalding cheese was overdone and dry—a characteristic I’m told is prevalent because of the time and heat needed to melt the cheese inside.

66 Devour Utah • august 2018

Next up was the 5-8 Club, originally founded as a speakeasy in 1928. The 5-8 Club regularly battles it out with Matt’s Bar as the Juicy Lucy’s originator and has been featured on The Travel Channel and in Time Magazine. Here, there are six options for Juicy Lucys including the classic version filled with your choice of American, blue, pepperjack or Swiss. I elected to try the Saucy Sally, which was filled with American and a secret sauce (let’s say it was Big Mac-esque) and then topped with more American cheese, shredded lettuce and Thousand Island dressing. It was an amazing gut bomb that required copious amounts of napkins to handle and was well worth seeking out.

Back in the Beehive State, if you’d like to try a Juicy Lucy without going all the way to Minnesota, stop in at Bourbon House (19 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-746-1005, BourbonHouseSLC. com). Their version is a black angus burger stuffed with fontina cheese and roasted garlic aioli and ranks as one of my favorite burgers in Salt Lake City. In true Juicy Lucy style, an order even squirted hot cheese grease all over my husband’s dress shirt on our way to the opera one evening. Ah, the memories.

And it turns out that Utahns like Bourbon House’s Juicy Lucy as much as Minnesotans like theirs. Executive chef Matt Crandall says he took it off the menu once, “and we almost had riots—people were pissed!” So, the Juicy Lucy is here to stay.

Thanks, Minnesota. ❖

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68 Devour Utah • august 2018