Devour Utah October 2018

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VOL. 4 NO. 10 • OCTOBER 2018 • SOUP

the

issue

Sip the Scare Away p. 54

FREE COPY

GUMBO WEATHER P. 14

BEWITCHING BONE BROTH P. 24

UTAH RESTAURANT

Devour Utah • october 2018 ASSOCIATION P. 162

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contents 10 Fab Four

44 The Spread

BY HEATHER L. KING

BY DIANE HARTFORD

Fall is the time to rekindle your love of soup

Deer Valley Grocery & Cafe

14 First, You Make a Roux

46 Dip and Dunk

BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ

BY KATE PAPPAS

If it’s fall, it’s time for gumbo

Soup and bread are made for each other

18 Supercharged Soups

50 Liquid Gold

BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON

BY KATE PAPPAS

Soup seems to be good for what ails you

Soup Kitchen’s enduring comfort food

23 Matzo Medicine

52 Devour This Recipe

BY MICHAEL FELDMAN

BY KATE PAPPAS

So, what’s with those soup balls?

The Soup Kitchen Cheese Broccoli Soup

24 Good to the Bone

54 Sip the Scare Away

BY KRISTIN WHITAKER

STORY & PHOTOS BY DARBY DOYLE

Homemade bone broth soothes body and soul

A novel approach to horror and hooch

26 Bowl on the Run

60 Things We Love

BY DARBY DOYLE

BY JERRE WROBLE

Where Utahns get their soup on the go

Soup edition

28 Magic in a Bowl

66 Soup Gods

BY DEVOUR STAFF

BY ELENI SALTAS

Delectable soup offerings that await your spoon 4 Devour Utah • october 2018

How veggies achieve immortality as soup

Devour Utah • october 2018 5

Contributors

Staff Publisher JOHN SALTAS EDITORIAL Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors

JERRE WROBLE SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN CAROLYN CAMPBELL, AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, MICHAEL FELDMAN, MERRY LYCETT HARRISON, DIANE HARTFORD, ANNA KASER, HEATHER L. KING, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, KATE PAPPAS, AMANDA ROCK, ELENI SALTAS, KRISTIN WHITAKER Photographers JOHN TAYLOR

Rebecca Ory Hernandez grew up in south Louisiana surrounded by Cajun gardeners and cooks who instilled in her an early love of preparing and cooking well-made food. Now a freelance writer, home cook and artist, Rebecca lives (and cooks) in Ogden.

PRODUCTION Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, CHELSEA NEIDER, SEAN HAIR

BUSINESS/OFFICE Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, ANNA KASER Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS

For Diane Hartford, life’s too short to eat processed foods. She seeks out the freshest local ingredients to take back to her kitchen to create sensational meals. Follow her culinary and travel journeys on HelloFunSeekers.com.

MARKETING Director of Events and Marketing SAMANTHA SMITH

CIRCULATION Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO

SALES Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives

JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER ALEX MARKHAM, MIEKA SAWATZKI, JEREMIAH SMITH

A recent U of U graduate with a degree in English, Anna Kaser grew up loving everything about Utah. When she’s not hiking or camping, you can find Anna sampling local food and beer or working on events for City Weekly and Vamoose Utah.

Cover photo by Ra2studio Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com

Copperfield Publishing

Copyright 2018. All rights reserved

@DevourUtah

6 Devour Utah • october 2018

@DevourUtah

@DevourUtah

A Utah native, Kate Pappas enjoys discovering and writing about the local dining scene while also working as a freelance PR and marketing consultant. She has an MPC from Westminster College and lives with her husband in Salt Lake City.

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From the Editor

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here was a time that I came home for lunch in junior high and warmed up a can of Campbell’s Soup. For a split second, I think I thought that was soup! Andy Warhol immortalized my lunch with his Campbell Soup Cans series. Before he discovered silk-screening, he handpainted each can with a scary mechanical accuracy and then displayed them in the art gallery in the same way that grocery stores stacked the cans (all varieties of them). If Andy Warhol considered the glop in the red and white cans to be soup, it must be soup, right? Appropriately enough, I think I even had a trash can in my dorm room that was an oversize Campbell’s Soup Can. I finally moved on from Campbell’s after my grandmother brought over a crock full of her navy bean soup. Made from scratch, her savory, creamy broth was dotted with finely diced ham and carrots. She brought some to my grandfather at the nursing home the night he died. For all I know, the salty soup brought on his heart attack, but I guarantee he loved that meal—his last, it turns out.

After Grandma’s best-ever bean soup, there was Dad’s homemade chicken noodle (for when we had colds). But as an adult, a whole new world opened up to me with Stone Soup in San Francisco. It was my go-to lunch spot back in the day. We’d form lines along an island with urns of delicious soups that changed daily. A modest salad bar and bread sticks would complete the meal. For office workers trying to survive in the Financial District, it was a little slurp of heaven.

8 Devour Utah • october 2018

Also in San Francisco, forever etched in my memory is a pungent hot-and-sour soup spooned down my throat on a cold damp night at a Chinatown cafe. Such warmth for the soul! And Alioto’s clam chowder on Fisherman’s Wharf became a base line to compare all others with.

What are your soup memories? Usually, they are fond ones (unless cans are involved, as mentioned).

Going out to eat? Ask your server for the soup of the day— and steer clear of predictable offerings. You’ll be treated to something relatively inexpensive, often not on the menu and generally delicious. Soups are often so satisfying that you can then easily share an entrée with your dining companion and feel just right at the end of your meal—not too full!

To get an idea of what to slurp, where to sup and/or how to create your own “liquid gold,” peruse the articles in this edition of Devour. Our writers have outdone themselves tracking down delightful soups and stews. Find out how to heal your ills with soup and what breads are best to dunk in your broth.

Finally, as this is the season of frights and delights, be sure to catch Darby Doyle’s creatively creepy Spirit Guide feature, where she queried local bibliophiles to divine drinks that go with dread (by that, I mean horror novels). And yes, they do chill well together!

May your soup memories be ever in the making, and may they be warm ones at that. ❖ —Jerre Wroble

Devour Utah • october 2018 9

The Soup Issue

oup’s On

Fall is the time to rekindle your love of soup

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Kobe’s Tonkotsu Ramen

JOHN TAYLOR

A

utumn in Utah is one of the most memorable seasons, not only for the changing weather and colors but also for the delicious fall foraging options at local restaurants and farmers markets.

Steaming bowls of hearty soups make their way to tables across the Wasatch Front, highlighting hearty vegetables like mushrooms and onions and all-in-onebowl meals such as ramen and hot-andsour noodle soup. So, pull up to the table and warm your insides with one of these comforting dishes.

BY HEATHER L. KING

JOHN TAYLOR

Chabaar’s Hot-and-Sour Noodle Soup

Tonkotsu Ramen, $8.95-$10.95

Hot-and-Sour Noodle Soup, $12

Japanese ramen is as much art as it is a science. Kobe chef and owner Mike Fukumitsu spent a full year in Atsugi, Japan, learning the techniques of made-from-scratch ramen, which is now served in six varieties at his restaurant on Wasatch Boulevard. “At its core, ramen is a dish that highlights all of its parts: the noodles, the broth and the toppings,” Fukumitsu says. Kobe’s ramen is a carefully orchestrated symphony of flavors—from the skillfully roasted pork chashu that graces most bowls to the flavor-packed pork broth; every poached egg, green onion and narutomaki (fish cake) slice is placed with thought and care.

You might hear diners at Chabaar order “crack soup” and wonder what’s the secret ingredient at this Thai restaurant in Midvale. In truth, long-time customers are so addicted to chef and owner Anny Sooksri’s hot-and-sour noodle soup that they now need it on a frequent basis. One taste of the tangy, spicy broth loaded with chicken, fresh tomatoes, mushrooms, onions, carrots, cabbage and egg noodles explains everything, though. The steaming bowl is flavored with lime juice, fish sauce and chili paste for kick then topped with a raw egg before serving—creating a silky, creamy, savory bowl of deliciousness designed to cure all ails.

Kobe Japanese Restaurant 3947 S. Wasatch Blvd., SLC 801-277-2928 Facebook.com/KobeJapaneseRestaurant

Chabaar Beyond Thai 87 W. 7200 South, Midvale 801-566-5100 ASooksri.com Devour Utah • october 2018 11

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The Soup Issue

French Onion Soup, $5.50

Desert Edge French Onion Soup

Centrally located in Trolley Square, Desert Edge has, for decades, offered dependably good food and awardwinning craft beers. Known far and wide for its daily pasta salads, the restaurant has perfected cheesy, pub-style French onion soup. Filled with sautéed onions cloaked in a hearty beef stock, this bowl of goodness is then layered with a slice of bread and mounds of cheese that are melted until they bubble and seal in all the flavor. The French onion soup can be enjoyed à la carte or added to a sandwich combo for just $1.50—making it one of the best dining deals in the valley.

Nothing says fall more than a warm, creamy bowl of mushroom soup.

The chanterelle mushroom soup at Kimi’s adds a luxurious touch to this memorable bowl of comfort. Bursting with mushrooms and a beefy base, the cream-laden soup is topped with hickory-smoked bacon and dried cranberries for texture and contrast in every spoonful, with just a nose of port wine to finish. Owner Kimi Eklund has been serving this soup to diners in the Beehive State in some form for more than two decades—and it’s always a showstopper. ❖ Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House 2155 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-946-2079 KimisHouse.com

Kimi’s Chanterelle Mushroom Soup

DEREK CARLISLE

Chanterelle Mushroom Soup, $12

DEREK CARLISLE

Desert Edge Brewery at The Pub 273 Trolley Square, 551 S. 600 East, SLC 801-521-8917 DesertEdgeBrewery.com

Devour Utah • october 2018 13

The Soup Issue

JUSTIN WATT

First, You Make a Roux

A nip in the air signals the start of gumbo season STORY & PHOTOS BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ

W

hen the temperature drops below 75 degrees in south Louisiana, gumbo season commences.

Even though I’ve long left Louisiana, my roots are there, so I continue to make gumbo each October here in Utah. I have a passion for this dish and the culinary tradition behind it, and both are meant to be shared.

Not a soup and not quite a stew, gumbo is in a category of its own. For as long as I can remember, autumn marked the time I’d be awakened by the distinctive smell of the roux’s nutty, burnt-toast aroma, followed by the sizzle and steam of onions, green pepper, celery and garlic that infused my home on Saturday mornings. As a child, I assumed that everyone ate this way, not realizing what a unique tradition it was.

I learned to make gumbo watching my mother stir a bubbling pot growing up in the southern Louisiana town of Gramercy. The recipe varied, as it utilized what we had on hand. I learned that gumbo is more about the love and

14 Devour Utah • october 2018

patience put into the dish—it’s the stirring, browning and layering of ingredients and the flavors that meld together.

The great part about gumbo is that, much like soup, after you’ve done all the hard work of chopping, stirring and assembling, you can let it simmer for a couple hours while you go about your business. Cook it on a cool day with your windows open.

The recipe I’m sharing recalls my youth in the River Parishes, where men traditionally hunted, made their own sausage and andouille, and cooked the gumbo (men cook gumbo in my culture, almost more so than women).

Cooking gumbo involves four distinct processes—making the roux, broth, vegetables and meat (or seafood). This traditional chicken and smoked-sausage gumbo is not thickened with okra but with filé at the end.

You can feed a crowd with this recipe. It’s also wonderful at tailgate parties. I actually prefer it as a leftover, plus it can be easily frozen and saved for another occasion.

River Parishes Chicken & SmokedSausage Gumbo Serves 10

INGREDIENTS

Meat An entire hen (or 1-2 pounds of breast meat) cut into large pieces. Season by sprinkling with salt, pepper, white pepper and cayenne pepper to taste 1 pound smoked sausage, cut into 1/3-inch rounds 1 pound andouille sausage, cut into 1/3-inch rounds and halved Vegetables Note: Onions, celery and green peppers are the “holy trinity” of gumbo and most Cajun dishes 2-3 medium onions, chopped 4 ribs celery, chopped 1 large green pepper, chopped 3 tablespoons fresh minced garlic or 4-5 toes of fresh garlic ½ teaspoon cayenne ½ teaspoon dried thyme 3 bay leaves 1 bunch green onions, snipped with scissors 1 bunch parsley, chopped Broth 2 quarts hot chicken broth (plus or minus 2 cups), homemade is best 1 quart hot water to add as needed to desired consistency Roux 1 cup all-purpose flour (for gluten-free batches, use rice flour or a gluten-free blend without nuts to prevent burning the roux) 1 cup vegetable oil (don’t use olive oil; the flavor is too strong and burning point is too low)

Plated gumbo served over hot white rice Devour Utah • october 2018 15

The Soup Issue

1. Early stage of roux for gumbo

3. Have gumbo’s “holy trinity” ready: chopped onions, celery and green pepper

5. The roux combined with the holy trinity

2. Stir until roux turns copper in color

4. Add onions to roux and fry until soft

6. Add chicken and simmer

PROCESS

First you make a roux The secret of a wonderfully deep and rich gumbo is the roux.

It can be easy to make, but there’s only one rule: You must stir it constantly.

So, prepare all the vegetables and meat for your gumbo in advance to be ready to assemble quickly. Have at least one quart of hot water ready in a kettle and hot broth ready to go.

Before or while you’re making your roux, brown the seasoned chicken parts and brown the sausage on one side so there’s not too much oil in the gumbo later. I do this by broiling in the oven on a rack for 20 minutes.

Turn off the phone—yes, completely off. You’ll need to stir your roux continuously for at least 20-30 minutes. It’s the only rule!

Using a 1:1 ratio of flour and oil, combine 1 cup all-purpose flour with cup of oil in the heaviest-bottomed pot you have (cast iron is best but some prefer an enamel Dutch oven) at room temperature (do not preheat the pan). Stir to blend.

Then set heat to medium (medium-low to medium-high heat) and stir gently with a wooden spoon (not plastic) to blend oil and flour. Stir gently—scraping all sides and surfaces of the pot.

The roux will turn from white to blond first, then beige, then to the color of peanut butter. Keep stirring. The roux will be hot and bubbly, so be careful. Keep stirring.

Once the color is that of a copper penny, you’re technically done. You can go darker to the color of milk chocolate which is ideal for this gumbo recipe, but in the River Parishes, a caramel color is traditional. In the swampier parishes, the 16 Devour Utah • october 2018

roux is darker—nearly that of dark chocolate, but be careful not to burn your roux.

Stir, stir, stir! If the roux gets brown or black bits in it, you’ll have to toss it out because it will ruin the flavor. It means you have burnt pieces in your roux. Start over and stir reaching every corner of the pot constantly.

Add vegetables, herbs and protein.

Once the roux is ready, add the onions and fry until soft and clear. Add celery, bell pepper, garlic, cayenne pepper to taste, sausage, salt and pepper to taste, and a splash of wine or apple cider vinegar.

Add broth to this mixture along with thyme and bay leaves.

Simmer for 2-4 hours.

Add the chicken, green onions and parsley to the gumbo and continue to simmer 30 more minutes. Don’t stir too much or the chicken will fall apart. Adjust thickness by adding more broth or hot water. You can adjust seasonings at this time as well.

Serve the gumbo in shallow bowls over mounds of hot white rice along with a bottle of hot sauce at the table. Top with filé (pronounced fee-lay), which is ground sassafras leaves.

Recipe will yield 4 ½ quarts or 10 servings. Double ingredients for a bigger party.

Sides for gumbo: green salad, potato salad and garlic bread.

We serve gumbo over rice and also with potato salad. It might sound strange, but a dollop of cold potato salad in hot gumbo is absolutely delicious. Give it a try and let me know

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$6 COCKTAILS! 7. Add smoked sausage and andouille, cut into 1/3-inch rounds and halved

8. Adjust thickness by adding broth what you think.

For authentic andouille and sausage, I order from Jacob’s Sausage (CajunSausage.com)—a business operated by a friend’s family located in LaPlace, La. The smoked sausage and andouille give my gumbo a deliciously deep and smoky flavor. If buying locally, try an all-beef smoked sausage from the local market, but don’t add liquid smoke to your gumbo!

While I love okra and making dishes such as okra shrimp gumbo, don’t use okra in this gumbo recipe. When the cold season starts, okra is already harvested and out of season. Thus, we use filé from ground sassafras leaves to thicken the gumbo after serving. I find that cooking with filé gives sauces a bitter taste, and I don’t care for it.

It’s tradition in the River Parishes, especially in St. James Parish where I grew up, to host open houses and invite everyone over for gumbo in advance of the Christmas Eve bonfires on the levee.

To learn more about gumbo making, check out The Little Gumbo Book by Gwen McKee. Her six varieties of roux are fun to try (but I still like mine the best.)❖

(801) 466-9827 HARBORSLC.COM 2302 E PARLEY’S WAY SLC, UT

501 E. 900 S. SLC | (385) 202-7167 | www.traditionslc.com Devour Utah • october 2018 17

The Soup Issue

Supercharged

Soups Soup seems to be good for what ails you

BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON

s

18 Devour Utah • october 2018

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ade by moms, grandmas and chefs the world over, soup is often dished up to fend off colds, flus, the side effects of surgery and any number of illnesses. Is there a scientific explanation for it? Not precisely. With soup’s myriad ingredients and cooking methods, it’s difficult to isolate and test the beneficial ingredients as a controlled experiment. However, one study from the early 2000s published in the medical journal, Chest, did suggest that chicken soup has antiinflammatory effects that help reduce upper respiratory cold symptoms.

The question is, if you’re under the weather, do you need proof? As long as soup tastes delicious, warm and comforting, it’s good medicine, right?

In truth, soup provides superior nourishment and healthy benefits to the body. Soup’s colorful vegetables are packed with phytonutrients like vitamins C and K, magnesium, potassium, iodine and fiber—all of which feed the blood and support proper organ function.

In addition, soup ingredients can help balance the body’s pH (today’s modern diets are thought to increase acidity in our bodies; it’s considered healthier to be at a slightly alkaline level). Balancing our pH helps prevent cellular damage and controls inflammation. Bone broth provides extra minerals, collagen (good for bones and tissue), gelatin and glucosamine as well as additional anti-inflammatory amino acids. A soup with wild-caught fish supplies essential

g al

us M

is o S o u p Astragalus whole and diced

omega-3 fatty acids.

To promote wellness and improve energy, consider adding herbs and ingredients with therapeutic value. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) has long prescribed specific recipes using herbs and animal parts to cure illness and enhance longevity. A basic concept in TCM is to bring the wei qi or body energies (yin and yang) into balance.

Practitioners search for excess cold or heat in the body and use herbs to put them right. Examples: ginger and cayenne are warming, dandelion and burdock are cooling. Herbal-soup packages for all sort of ailments are available at many Asian markets, including many along the Wasatch Front.

During the change of seasons, some herbalists use the astragalus root as an immune booster and tonic. The root is simmered with shiitake mushrooms, high-mineral kombu seaweed, garlic, dark leafy greens like kale or chard and tofu for protein. To experience the benefits, follow the Astragalus Miso Soup recipe at TraditionalMedicinals.com.

Ayurveda is another ancient healing tradition from southern Asia. The practice looks at the doshas—mind-body types, based on physical, emotional and mental characteristics.

Practitioners determine the patient’s dosha (Vata, Pitta and Kapha) and looks at excesses and deficiencies such as cold and heat or dryness and moisture. Like TCM, plant-based Ayurvedic treatments may be derived from roots, leaves, fruits, bark or seeds.

Red Lentil Soup is an Ayurvedic recipe that is tridoshic—serving all three doshas. Cooked with cumin, mustard, garlic, turmeric and masala, the cooling and drying aspects might help with gut disturbances and the spices are detoxifying to the liver—especially turmeric which is also anti-inflammatory (see soup recipe at Ayurveda.com).

If you find these old (yet sophisticated) traditions and ingredients too unusual to make use of right now, fall back on what you know. Chicken soup is universally known to be good for a cold. Why? Because the warmth stimulates secretions to help clear airways and causes perspiration, which is detoxifying. It might even inhibit neutrophils, the white blood cells that eat bacteria and cause inflammation and mucus. The lean protein of the chicken along with tender, nourishing veggies are easy to digest, which is desirable when someone has little appetite or is on the mend. In addition, chicken soup is usually made and served with love and care.

Shiitake Mushroom

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Mustard Seed Cumin Devour Utah • october 2018 19

The Soup Issue

Other common ingredients can be helpful to your well-being. Cabbage can help fight infection. Okra is demulcent, soothing to the digestive tract. Shiitake mushrooms support immunity, and garlic is antimicrobial, plus it gets excreted through the lungs and skin, so it’s good for clearing congestion. Beets have anti-anemic benefits because they are rich in iron and copper and have a hepatorenal detoxifying effect.

To chase away a chill, use onions, garlic, kale, spinach, yams, squash, turnips, quinoa and parsley (when cooking veggies, simmer, rather than boil, to retain optimal nutrition). Even beans and grains have particular health advantages.

Herbs and spices are essential for boosting therapeutic value. Fennel, cardamom, cumin, celery, fenugreek, turmeric, dill, parsley, turmeric and others have a carminative, stomachsoothing property, but herbs seldom have only one benefit.

For example, oregano is antibacterial, antifungal, cholerectic, carminative, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and diuretic. Turmeric is anti-inflammatory as well as liver protective, cholesterol reducing, antiviral and antitumoral.

Herbs have restorative properties that are especially important after an illness when one’s vitality is sorely depleted.

Mineral-rich herbs like nettle, dandelion, sorrel, celery and parsley in broth are easy to digest. They feed and purify the blood and help improve energy.

To understand how to better utilize herbs for any health condition, visit an herbalist and learn which ones might be useful for your symptoms.

Amazing that all these benefits can be found in a humble bowl of soup, so, follow Hippocrates advice: “Let food be thy medicine, and medicine be thy food.” ❖ Herbalist Merry Lycett Harrison owns SLC-based Millcreek Herbs. In addition to offering classes in medicinal herbs, culinary herbs and herb gardening, she leads herb trips in the wild. To learn more, visit MillcreekHerbs.com.

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Okra

Beets

Squash Turnips

Parsley

Yams

Devour Utah • october 2018 21

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MICHAEL FELDMAN

The Soup Issue

Beloved by ‘bubbes’ (Jewish grandmothers): Matzo ball soup

Matzo Medicine So, what’s with those soup balls?

BY MICHAEL FELDMAN

T

he story goes that one day, President George W. Bush went out to dinner with a Jewish friend, and the friend recommended a kosher place nearby.

They arrived, and W’s friend ordered them both the house specialty: matzo ball soup. The waiter brought the bowls, and W looked at the soup suspiciously. His friend urged him to try at least one taste. So, he took a bite of matzo ball and slurped some soup and clearly liked it.

After W was finished he said, “Mmm mmm, that was good!

But tell me, do you Jewish folks eat other parts of the matzo, or just the balls?”

So just what’s with those balls? Matzo balls—or kneydlekh in Yiddish—are Ashkenazi (eastern European) Jewish soup dumplings made from a mixture of matzo meal (ground matzo), eggs, water, dill, other spices and a fat, such as oil, margarine or chicken fat (schmaltz). Most Jewish cooks prefer schmaltz to any other fat. Matzo balls are traditionally served in chicken soup and are a staple food on the Jewish holiday of Passover.

The texture of matzo balls may be light or dense, depending on the recipe and the skill of the cook. At the deli, we call them “floaters” or “sinkers.”

Schmaltz imparts a distinctive flavor and is credited with some of the healing properties of chicken soup. The proteins found in the fat are said to stimulate the immune system to

help ward off colds and flus.

After the matzo balls are formed, they are dropped into a pot of salted boiling water or chicken soup, then the heat is turned down to a simmer and a lid is placed on the pot. The balls swell during the cooking time of 20 to 30 minutes. From a golf-ball-sized beginning, they can swell to the size of a baseball if made properly.

So, it’s lunchtime and 70-year-old Lou walks into Feldman’s Deli, where he always goes for his daily bowl of matzo ball soup. As usual, Lou sits down at his table and smiles at Gavin, his regular waiter. Almost immediately, a bowl of soup is placed in front of Lou. As Gavin walks away, Lou quickly calls him back to his table. “Please taste this soup,” Lou says to Gavin. “Why?” Gavin asks. “What’s the matter with the soup? It’s the same soup as you always have.”

“Please taste the soup,” Lou says again to Gavin.

“But there’s nothing wrong with your soup,” Gavin says.

“For the third time, Gavin, I ask you to please taste the soup,” Lou says.

“All right, if you insist,” Gavin says, looking around the table. “But where’s the spoon?”

“Ah-ha!” shouts Lou with a big smile on his face. ❖ Michael Feldman owns Feldman’s Deli in Salt Lake City.

Devour Utah • october 2018 23

The Soup Issue

Good to the Bone

Bone broth: simple to make and delicious

Homemade bone broth soothes body and soul STEVE BROWNSTEIN

BY KRISTIN WHITAKER

B

one broth, by definition, is simple to make: Bones plus water plus time is all that’s needed to concoct something not only delicious but healthy.

Anyone down with a cold, flu, chronic ailment or injury can sense bone broth’s healing powers.

For centuries, cooks and chefs have boiled the bones, cartilage, tendons, feet and knuckles from poultry, cattle, pigs, sheep and even fish to prepare a nourishing gelatinrich liquid that soothes, hydrates and warms a body.

Bone broth contains amino acids needed for the body to rebuild and repair itself and to boost immune function. Broth is also thought to strengthen hair, skin and nails; ease creaky joints, and—perhaps most importantly—heal and seal the fragile gut lining, reducing chronic inflammation and, over time, any number of autoimmune conditions.

Deeply nourishing, broth’s beauty lies in its simplicity.

It’s not too complicated to make your own. Try these steps:

24 Devour Utah • october 2018

BASIC INGREDIENTS

3 ½ pounds of grass fed/pastured bones (beef, pork, chicken and/or turkey are common) 4 quarts filtered water Optional: Apple cider vinegar or fresh lemon juice: 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. The acidity helps release minerals.

Place bones in your cooking vessel. (Note: roasting the bones before making broth adds a richer flavor but no added nutrition. Consider roasting if broth is the star of the show, like in a homemade pho, but for daily use, you can skip the extra step.) Submerge in water—at least 2 inches above the level of bones. Add vinegar.

Season if desired. Cook according to the equipment used.

EQUIPMENT

Stock pot—Cooking broth on the stove works wonderfully if you have time to babysit your broth. Bring to a boil and then reduce to medium-low heat and allow to simmer a minimum of 8 hours.

Slow cooker—The easiest, most inexpensive way to get beautiful broth. Set it on low and leave at least overnight. Simply top off with water before going to bed to assure water levels cover bones.

Instant Pot/pressure cooker—A great option if you’re short on time. It makes a clearer broth that some feel doesn’t have the richness of slow-cooked broth. Cook according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Season or not?—Chef’s preference! You can add seasonings and vegetables of choice to enrich flavor. Keep in mind sweeter veggies—like carrots—might become dark and bitter after hours of cooking. Onions, celery and garlic are recommended. Experiment with seasoning blends for variety. Quality salt is essential. Leaving your broth unseasoned simplifies the process and makes the broth more versatile; it can be custom seasoned to taste or to suit the cuisine that you are preparing. Also, when left unseasoned, bone broth is bland enough to use as a smoothie base—a clever way to get more broth into your diet.

STORING

Strain your broth and place in glass jars for storing. Be careful freezing it, as even “freezer safe” glass jars break at times. Broth stores for weeks in the fridge; the fat that floats to the top creates a beautiful seal keeping your broth fresh and ready to use.

You can skim the fat off or stir it into the broth as you reheat it.

WHERE TO GET BONES

Save: Keep a container in the freezer for ribs, pork chop bones, chicken carcasses, etc., and when it’s full, it’s time to broth.

Hunt and gather: If you hunt, save those bones; if you don’t, ask a hunter friend if they’d save bones for you. You might find a local butcher willing to give you bones or sell them to you cheap.

Buy the best: Visit a local farm with clean, ethically raised meat.

(Disclosure: I’m the market manager for Utah Natural Meats in West Jordan, an excellent source for grassfed and pastured meats; we keep an assortment of bones in stock year round.)

Hours: 7am to 10pm • peacetreecafe.com 435-259-0101 • 20 South Main Street • Moab, Utah 435-587-5063 • 516 North Main Street • Monticello, Utah

HOW DO I USE IT?

I’ve found that drinking broth daily is a habit that pays dividends in overall health and vitality. I use it in soups, stews and sauces to cook vegetables, grains and potatoes. I also sip it like tea with my favorite seasonings.

Once you take the leap, you will see lots of ways to get the good stuff in. ❖

Kristin Whitaker is a certified nutritional therapist in training through Nutrition Therapy Institute. She blogs at the LittlePurpleBarn.com and is market manager at Utah Natural Meats (7400 S. 5600 West, West Jordan, 801-8963276, UtahNaturalMeat.com/education) where she sells beef and pork bones and offers classes on beginning bone broth.

Devour Utah • october 2018 25

The Soup Issue

Bowl On the Run

By Darby Doyle

W

e’re lucky to have a handful of local mobile chefs who prepare soup and keep it in stock. It’s a popular option for carry-out, especially as the weather cools down.

Here are three spots that cater to our craving for slurping soup when we’re out and about along the Wasatch Front.

French onion soup like you’ve never experienced it

Raclette Machine French Onion Soup $8-$10

Co-owners Zara Ahmed and Abby Pfunder of the pop-up Alpine melty-cheese experience Raclette Machine have been keeping Wasatch Front customers happy with traditional and trendy raclette.

Essentially, the entire surface of a halved wheel of Alpine-style cheese (such as Gruyère) is toasted under a portable broiler and then the melty part is scraped by hand over various delicious bases like toasted bread, potatoes or on loaded sandwiches.

Starting in September each year and going strong as long as the weather stays cool, Raclette Machine also offers a savory and satisfying take on French onion soup. Using a vegan base, they top off the fragrant broth with garlic croutons followed by what Ahmed describes as a “fat scrape” of ooey-gooey raclette. “My personal favorite part is the way the textures play with each other: the broth, onions, crispy croutons and creamy raclette taste delicious. Especially on a snowy day,” Ahmed says.

With year-round catering available and pop-ups at spots like Amour Café and A. Fischer Brewing Co., the Raclette Machine folks recently purchased a food truck to expand their fromage-peddling phenomenon.

Raclette-Machine.com Facebook.com/raclettemachine Instagram @raclettemachine

26 Devour Utah • october 2018

COURTESY RACLETTE MACHINE

Where Utahns get comforting soup on the go

The Ramen Mobile: Devil Ramen $8.50

COURTESY FRESHIE’S

JOHN TAYLOR

Spicy ramen that’s a devilish delight

A taste of the sea in Utah

Freshies Lobster Bisque $12

Ramen is the exception to the “it’ll keep” rule usually associated with soup. While the rich broth bases are made ahead of time, each generous serving of ramen noodles with fresh toppings is assembled to order by Ramen Mobile owner Miwako “Miwa” Hunter and her team.

With fragrant broth options like roast bone-in pork, soy and miso, each menu option includes traditional Japanese toppings like sprouts, green onion, boiled egg and a generous slice (or two) of roast pork.

On a blustery day, a hearty bowl of spiced-up Devil Ramen built with your choice of soup base hits the spot. After relocating to Utah from Japan several years ago, Hunter wanted to bring the “slurping encouraged” flavors of ramen to the Wasatch Front. By using a tow-behind trailer, she’s able to keep the operation running from South Jordan to downtown SLC even in the coldest weather, “We are all yearround service,” she says with a smile.

You’d have to be hiding under a rock on the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean to have missed the earth-shattering news earlier this year: The best lobster rolls in the nation hail not from Maine, but right here in Utah by transplanted New Englanders Lorin and Ben Smaha, who now live in Park City.

Their lobster-based pop-up catering business and food truck became so popular, they’ve opened up storefronts in both Park City and Salt Lake City to satisfy the mass craving for all things crustacean.

Although the traditional velvety cream-based lobster bisque and chunky New England clam “chowdah” ($10) aren’t always served at the mobile food truck due to limited space, 12-ounce bowls of both soups are available for carry-out (or dine in) at both storefront locations. You can even order ahead online, and it’ll be ready to go when you get there. ❖

TheRamenSLC.com Facebook.com/theramen.slc Instagram @theramen_mobile

1897 Prospector Ave., Park City, 435-631-9861 356 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-829-1032 FreshiesLobsterCo.com Devour Utah • october 2018 27

The Soup Issue

MAGIC in a BOWL 12 delectable soup offerings that await your spoon

BY THE DEVOUR STAFF

L

ast weekend, I made chicken tortilla soup.

What a treat to lap up that first cheesy bite, savoring the chile spice along with the crunch of the tortilla strips. The next bite yielded black beans, onions and cilantro, drenched in the spicy sauce. It was filling and delicious; we needed little else for dinner except a mug of beer.

Soups are a meal in bowl, seemingly so simple that one might think of them as forgettable appetizers or uncomplicated dishes not worthy of study. One would be wrong.

And here is why: All good soups begin with a delicious stock or broth. Making this essential ingredient from scratch takes time and should be undertaken on a different day of the week!

Hopefully, you either have a pre-made broth you can pull from your freezer or you’re OK with storebought.

Once you have stock, it’s go-time. In your soup pan, heat up oil or fat (butter, olive oil or coconut oil) and

28 Devour Utah • october 2018

add aromatics (onions, celery or fennel) and herbs and spices (cumin or garlic). Then deglaze (are you remembering to deglaze? It’s easy to forget that step) with a small amount of broth, wine or tamari. Let the liquid reduce by half to concentrate the flavor.

Add the main ingredients (veggies, legumes, tofu, meat) and let them mingle with the aromatics and cook together. Add stock or broth, bring to a boil, then simmer until the ingredients are cooked to perfection. Finish with salt, herbs and garnishes.

Making soup sounds so simple, yet it can feel rather arduous by the time it’s ready. No wonder we let soup simmer for hours. We need the rest.

Another option is to go out and order hearty soups, stews, bisques and chowders prepared by the pros.

Salt Lake boasts a number of soup and salad eateries as well as restaurants known for that one incredible soup everyone raves about. Here are 12 favorites that the Devour staff picked out to get you started on your quest for souper stars. (Jerre Wroble)

Nordstrom Café Bistro: Roma Tomato Bisque

Available by the cup or bowl, accompanied with a garlic crouton, Roma tomato basil bisque is served every Wednesday at the Bistro Café at Nordstrom in Fashion Place Mall in Murray. It’s been on the menu for years (at least since 1994, when this writer became addicted to it), and chef Jeremy Matthews doesn’t see it ever leaving. It’s been updated as time and tastes have progressed and is completely vegetarian now.

It’s no wonder that tomato soup has a place in everyone’s heart. It’s comforting and speaks to the kid in all of us, and can be nicely paired with a grilled cheese sandwich.

The Nordstrom tomato bisque, however, is no run-of-the-mill tomato soup. According to Matthews, Nordy’s soup is made in-house in the morning, built in layers and developing flavor as it cooks. He starts by caramelizing onions and carrots to extract their sugars. The sweetness of the root vegetables helps balance the natural acidity of the tomatoes.

Once the tomatoes and basil are added, they all simmer together for hours, concentrating the tomatoes’ flavors. Finally, sweet cream is blended into the soup, finishing off with kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper. The result is sweet and balanced with a rich, warm depth to the flavor. It’s perfect for fall—and any season, really. The soup is also available in jars for sale in the restaurant. It makes a wonderful gift or just a great item to stock on your shelf for a night when you’re not up to cooking.

(Rebecca Ory Hernandez) Fashion Place Mall 6191 S. State, Murray 801-892-4123 Shop.Nordstrom.com/content/ nordstrom-restaurants

JAY MORTENSEN

A childhood favorite perfected

Devour Utah • october 2018 29

One of a kind items at a one of a kind store

TONA tonarestaurant.com SUSHI BAR AND GRILL 2013 - 2018

Best Odgen Restaurant

BOSS 2016

2015 - 2017

2012 - 2017

210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi

PUMPKIN SPICE & EVERYTHING NICE! Pumpkin Spice Pedis Body Wraps & Facials

Steampunk, antiques, original artwork

by John Cottam Lower Level Center Court Trolley Square

30 Devour Utah • october 2018

Mind, Body & Soulstice...

Fort Union Jordan Landing 6981 S. Park Centre Drive 7138 Plaza Center Drive Salt Lake City West Jordan 801-255-3655 | www.SoulsticeDaySpa.com

Bambara Silky Corn Bisque

Smooth and silky: Bambara’s corn bisque

DEREK CARLISLE

Throughout the years and during the reigns of various Bambara chefs, the silky corn bisque is one of few dishes that’s remained a staple since the restaurant’s inception. Under the watchful eyes of executive sous chef Jerry Pacheco, the bisque remains cemented on the menu as a stand-out among the establishment’s many stellar offerings. The smooth and creamy corn bisque—passed through a sieve to achieve its impeccably refined texture—is made with carrots, peppers, chicken stock and sherry, and carries a savory, mild heat that’s perfectly complemented by the lump Jonah crab on top. For first-time diners, it’s an appetizer that might just be the star of your entire meal, and you’ll understand why there might be a riot should the bisque ever drop off the menu. (Kate Pappas) 202 S. Main, SLC 801-363-5454 Bambara-SLC.com

Lettuce & Ladles Split Pea Soup

This split pea soup comes from a family recipe

JOHN TAYLOR

The split pea soup at Lettuce & Ladles is a creamy, comforting blend of ingredients— subtle bites of smoky ham, morsels of fresh carrots and hints of zesty cumin, savory bacon, garlic and black pepper. The flavor is further enlivened by a chicken stock base and onions added toward the end of preparation. “The recipe has been in our family for years,” chef Mario Lugo says. He assembles the split pea soup from scratch, cooking the ingredients for three hours to create this delicious, revitalizing combination. With a smooth texture and hearty mouth feel, the soup is also good for you—it’s both fiber- and nutrient-rich. Lettuce & Ladles offers a choice of four housemade soups daily: farmer’s vegetable, chicken noodle and broccoli cheese are often among featured selections.

Pair the soup with a sandwich such as a Monte Cristo or turkey cranberry, select a prepared salad, visit the salad bar or decide on a hamburger with fries. Sugar cookies, cakes and brownies round out the visit to Comfort Food Central. (Carolyn Campbell) 2268 E. 3300 South, SLC 385-252-0747 Facebook.com/lettuceandladels Devour Utah • october 2018 31

NOW OPEN IN LEHI

Contemporary Japanese Dining

LUNCH • DINNER • COCKTAILS

18 MARKET STREET • 801.519.9595

We have moved to the newly restored to glory Historic Eagle Building.

Italian Cuisine 404 South W Temple ´ Salt Lake City, Utah 801-364-8833 ´ www.caffemolise.com 32 Devour Utah • october 2018

FANCY TACOS & FINE TEQUILAS

1615 S. FOOTHILL DRIVE | 385-259-0712 4670 HOLLADAY VILLAGE PLAZA (2300 EAST) | 801-676-9706 149 EAST 200 SOUTH | 385-259-0940 6154 SOUTH FASHION PLACE BLVD | 801-266-2487 1688 W TRAVERSE PARKWAY (LEHI) | 801-331-8033

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK I T A Q U E R I A 2 7 . C O M

Thai Delight Tom Kha Gai

For 17 years, the Tranngoc family has served their mouthwatering recipes at Thai Delight, their familyowned eatery in West Jordan.

Family matriarch Lae Tranngoc remembers many customers after a single visit and invites them back to order their favorite dishes.

She oversees the creation of every entrée and roasts peppers to make her own garlic chile oil that’s a key ingredient in the flavorful and refreshing tom kha gai, a creamy, coconut chicken soup enhanced with lime, cilantro, green onions, straw mushrooms, bay leaves and lemon grass.

“It’s a good balance of all the ingredients—a blend of sweet and spicy with a little heat. Add fluffy jasmine rice, and it turns into comfort food,” says Win Tranngoc, whose parents “carried me into the United States from their native Laos when I was 2 weeks old.”

He encourages diners to dial their own spice level from mild to spicy before the soup is presented in a stainless-steel fire pot that maintains the flavorenhancing heat throughout the meal. The soup can be the star player or can be accompanied by pot stickers, pad thai noodles or a massaman curry dish.

Let the textures and spices lift and restore your spirits.

(Carolyn Campbell)

JOHN TAYLOR

A blend of sweet and spicy and a little heat

6271 South Dixie Road West Jordan 801-968-7626

Devour Utah • october 2018 33

NOW ACCEPTING HOLIDAY RESERVATIONS

C O R P O R AT E • P R I V AT E • C AT E R I N G r i c o c o c i n ay t e q u i l a b a r. c o m (801) 983-6692 5 4 5 W 7 0 0 S , S a l t L a k e C i t y, U T 8 4 1 0 1

34 Devour Utah • october 2018

Tosh’s Curry Ramen

1465 S. State, SLC 801-466-7000 1963 E. Murray Holladay Road, SLC 801-278-8249 ToshsRamen.com

JOHN TAYLOR

Not your dad’s ramen: Two types of pork, shiitake mushrooms, custom noodles and an egg

Don’t confuse today’s restaurantquality ramen with the dirt-cheap instant noodles packaged in cellophane and sold to starving college students. Today’s ramen is a whole new kettle of noodles.

Toshio Sekikawa, owner and executive chef of Tosh’s Ramen, orders custom-made ramen noodles from a California factory. He offers five flavors of delectable premium ramen, such as fresh chicken, vegetarian and pork.

Curry ramen is a Japanese soup accentuated by two kinds of pork— tender pork tenderloin prepared in a breaded panko and fall-apart chashu pork belly cooked in a mediumspiced curry broth. A soft-boiled egg adds a delightful texture variation.

Add shiitake mushrooms for more flavor.

Sekikawa simmers the shiitake mushrooms for several hours in a solution of soy sauce, sugar and sake—“lots of sake,” he says.

The ramen noodles themselves are prepared to the perfect consistency—firm enough to hold their shape but tender enough to melt in your mouth.

Sekikawa began his culinary career nearly 40 years ago by cooking in a French restaurant in Tokyo. Today, when diners choose to pair their ramen with gyoza, or pot stickers, he prepares the “skin” by hand using flour, water and salt before adding the delicious fillings made with ground pork, Chinese chives, onion and Chinese cabbage.

The Frenched, lightly floured and deep-fried Tokyo wings are another great side choice. (Carolyn Campbell)

Devour Utah • october 2018 35

DEREK CARLISLE

A bunch of crunch for lunch

Yoko’s Karaage Tenders Ramen

With six ramen choices, Yoko Ramen’s menu is simple.

And like the menu, this unique chicken ramen is able to accomplish a whole lot with what looks like very little. At $11, the karaage ramen comes in a heaping bowl—not only stuffed with flavorful broth and perfectly cooked noodles, but with some of the best fried chicken ever to grace a ramen bowl. The chicken has just the right amount of crunch to hold its own after being dunked in broth, and the powerful flavor could make it a stand-alone dish. Karaage simply means “deep fried” in Japanese. However, once again, what looks simple is actually so much more. The special process simultaneously produces a juicy piece of chicken with a crunchy exterior. For those not as chicken-obsessed as this writer, this bowl also includes veggies, an expertly softboiled egg and a sprinkle of saffron to pull all the flavors together. A work of art, you might say. (Anna Kaser) 473 E. 300 South, SLC 801-876-5267 YokoRamenSLC.com 36 Devour Utah • october 2018

This creamy chicken soup is the stuff of dreams

Porcupine’s creamy chicken noodle soup is—dare we say it—even better than your grandma’s (please don’t tell her). You will have dreams about this soup. With a thick flavorful broth, chunks of perfectly cooked chicken and housemade noodles, it’s the perfect meal for any rainy/snowy fall day. Now for the bad news: Porcupine restricts the purchase of this soup until “real” soup weather. Addicts can only buy their chicken noodle soup on Wednesdays throughout the warmer months.

However, once November 1 hits, you can get a cup or bowl (or possibly a quart?) every day of the week. The soup pairs deliciously with Porcupine’s warm housemade rolls (request extra to mop up every last drop). Whether it’s Wednesday in July or a frosty Sunday in November, this chicken noodle soup will bring you back to the comfort of childhood. (Anna Kaser) 3698 E. Fort Union Blvd.

Cottonwood Heights 801-942-5555

258 S. 1300 East, SLC 801-582-5555 PorcupinePub.com DEREK CARLISLE

Porcupine Pub & Grille Creamy Chicken Noodle Soup

Devour Utah • october 2018 37

IT’S STILL SUMMER ON THE PATIO!

3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT • 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com 38 Devour Utah • october 2018

It’s Tofu Kimchi and Beef Tofu Stew

Tofu stew: both a broth and stew

DEREK CARLISLE

Chef Kevin Kim and his wife, Elisa, have brought their traditional Korean favorites to Cottonwood Heights. Their tofu stew is served steaming hot, with the spice level of your choosing: white, mild, medium, spicy, extra spicy, double extra-spicy or triple extra-spicy.

(Imagine smoke coming out of your ears at that last level.) Spice is controlled by the housemade pepper paste made with gochujang-serrano peppers, added to increase heat subtly, while Korean peppers bring the gusto. This bowl of comfort food has the characteristics of both a soup with a hearty broth and a stew, as it’s loaded with pieces of beef, chunks of silky tofu, a smattering of kimchi, and you can add an egg for authenticity. All four types of tofu stew are served with rice and traditional side dishes of kimchi, tangy radishes, room-temperature potatoes dressed in a sweet syrup and spicy cucumbers. (Aimee L. Cook) 6949 S. 1300 East, Cottonwood Heights 801-566-9103 ItsTofu.com

Kyoto Japanese Restaurant Nabeyaki Udon

Healthy udon with veggies and pillowy noodles

DEREK CARLISLE

Udon is a traditional noodle soup in Japan and has been a staple on the menu at Kyoto since it opened in 1984. A light fish stock mixed with mirin, sugar and soy sauce make up the broth (aka dashi) that’s the subtle backdrop for wide pillowy wheat noodles. The nabeyaki udon is accompanied by portions of chicken, seafood, tempura, ebi, vegetables and egg—so many tasty things in one warm bowl. (Ask for some Ichimi togarashi, or Japanese red pepper flakes, if you want to add spice and enhance the flavors.) While perhaps not as bold in flavor as the ramen offerings, udon might be healthier due to its less-salty broth. It makes for a great starter to share or can be hearty enough to stand alone as a meal. In addition to the nabeyaki udon, Kyoto offers three other udon dishes for you to feast upon: tempura (shrimp), beef and oyako (chicken, egg and veggies).

(Aimee L. Cook)\ 1080 E. 1300 South, SLC 801-487-3525 KyotoSLC.com

Devour Utah • october 2018 39

Modern Cuisine . Wine . Cocktails 237 South 400 West · Salt Lake City 801.935.4431 · www.eatpallet.com Monday-Saturday · Dinner 5:00pm-Close

N F O O D H E AV E N A M R E G Delicatessen & Restaura German

20 W. 200 S. • (801) 355-3891 • Catering available Open Mon-Wed: 9am-6pm Thu-Sat: 9am-9pm

40 Devour Utah • october 2018

nt

All Chay Pho

DEREK CARLISLE

The ‘can’t believe it’s not meat’ pho

Dazzle your tastebuds with this chunky stew

All Chay, a Vietnamese restaurant in Rose Park, has been serving up vegan versions of traditional Vietnamese fare since 2015, showing no signs of slowing down. Owners Kim Hoa Nguyen and her brother, Binh, have created a cult-like following for their vegan pho. There is a remarkable depth of flavor in the broth.

Pho is usually made by simmering beef bones and oxtails with onion, ginger and spices. All Chay’s vegan version is made with fruit and vegetables. Until you bite into a piece of soybased meat or tofu, you likely couldn’t tell this pho is vegan. The appeal of the rich, flavorful broth is felt by omnivores—it’s really that good.

Served with rice noodles, strips of vegetarian ham and beef, and fried tofu, this pho is a nourishing meal. A small plate of fresh basil, cilantro, bean sprouts and fresh lime encourage you to play with the flavor. Don’t forget a squiggle of Sriracha or a dollop of sweet hoisin sauce. Order the lunch special for a few bucks more and get crunchy egg rolls and a can of soda to round out your meal. (Amanda Rock) 1264 W. 500 North, SLC 801-521-4789 SLCMenu.com/2015/07/09/all-chay-menu

The Charleston Draper Brazilian Fish Stew

FRANKIE JENSEN

Been dazzled by Draper much? Here’s your chance to be. Executive chef Marco Silva and entrepreneur Steve Cappellucci have created an appealing restaurant in Draper in a beautifully restored two-story brick house built by one of Draper’s first pioneers in 1878. This quaint backdrop is a setting for an impressive international cuisine that features not only casual lunch offerings such as homemade soups, salads and paninis, but evening finedining entrees that include steaks, salmon, coq au vin and a formidable Brazilian fish stew. Fish-lovers will relish the large chunks of sautéed white and shellfish combined with peppers and onions in a creamy coconut milk and lemon juice sauce that’s topped with fresh coriander. Come hungry. (Derek Carlisle) 1229 E. Pioneer Road, Draper 801-550-9348 TheCharlestonDraper.com

Devour Utah • october 2018 41

Heavenly Breakfast, Lu

nch & Brunch

Frugal decadence

serving beer, wine & fresh squeezed mimosas

Coffee Pastries Gelato

4670 S. 2300 E. HOLLADAY MONDAY-FRIDAY 6AM-8PM SATURDAY 6AM-9PM SUNDAY 7AM-6PM www.3cups.coffee | 385.237.3091

42 Devour Utah • october 2018

COURTESY PHOTO

2577 East BengAl Blvd.

801.542.0797 7:30am - 2:30pm 7 days a week

Cafe Zupas Roasted Red Pepper & Lobster

No self-respecting local soup issue would be complete without a nod to Utah’s own Cafe Zupas, founded in 2004 in Provo by Rob Seely and Dustin Schulties—two food lovers with backgrounds in the software industry. The two set about to cash in the “fast casual” restaurant trend, creating—with their technological prowess—efficient systems for offering quality food in a comfortable setting.

Most Cafe Zupas are bright and airy establishments with a view of the kitchen so diners can watch food being prepared.

The chain now boasts over 50 restaurants across eight states (21 in Utah). The manager assures me that all soups are made from scratch daily using fresh ingredients listed on the menu. “We do add a prepared packet of spices to each soup,” she said. “They’re secret and what set our soups apart.” Cafe Zupas most popular soups are the creamier ones: tomato basil, Wisconsin cauliflower and mushroom bisque. But when it comes to creamy, it’s hard to beat the red pepper and lobster soup, a thick soup made with roasted sweet red peppers and chunks of real lobster. At $6.79 for a large bowl, it’s the decadence that most penny pinchers only dream of.

(Jerre Wroble) ❖ Multiple locations CafeZupas.com

FRESH NEIGHBORHOOD DINING

4291 South 900 East | 801.288.0051 | www.stellagrill.com

We will be closed 7.15-8.1

801.355.2294 | 216 East 500 South, SLC Devour Utah • october 2018 43

DEER VALLEY MOUNTAIN RESORT

The Soup Issue

Enjoy the view from Deer Valley Grocery & Cafe

the

Spread Deer Valley Grocery & Café

I

f the idea of sitting on a deck overlooking a lake surrounded by majestic mountains appeals to you, then head over to Deer Valley Grocery & Café. This little gem offers the trifecta of delicious seasonal food, breathtaking views and a cozy ambiance.

The deck is spectacular, overlooking Deer Valley’s Pebble Beach, a small body of water where motorized

44 Devour Utah • october 2018

STORY & PHOTOS BY DIANE HARTFORD

watercraft are not allowed. It’s the perfect spot for standup paddleboarders to tool around. The vibe in the café is casual; diners are often decked out in biking or hiking clothes while some have their pooches along for the meal. If the weather doesn’t permit dining al fresco, grab a table in the comfy indoor dining room.

Diners order their meals at the counter,

take a number, and servers bring the food to the tables when it’s ready.

Deer Valley is famous for its turkey chili. Big chunks of turkey meat and black beans give the chili some heft while onions and peppers provide flavor to the broth. A dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of grated cheese slowly melt into the hot chili adding creaminess to the bowl. The chili is

Deer Valley Grocery and Cafe’s turkey chili is a star attraction

The gourmet groceries offer treats for any picnic basket

The casual cafe is a perfect dining spot after a hike or a day of skiing

hearty and flavorful and the perfect way to warm up on a crisp fall day or later in the season after hitting the slopes.

Deer Valley Grocery and Café sells takeout items for those wanting to fill their picnic baskets for a day of ogling the autumn leaves. Enjoy fresh-baked breads, pastries, sweets, cheeses, meats, soups and even house-prepared take-away meals.

There’s also fresh-roasted coffee and espresso drinks, gourmet grocery items

and wine, beer and liquor available for purchase. Deer Valley Grocery & Café is open daily and located in the Deer Valley Plaza building in the Snow Park area. ❖ Deer Valley Grocery & Café 1375 Deer Valley Drive, Park City 435-615-2400 DeerValley.com/Dining/WhereToEat/ GroceryCafe Devour Utah • october 2018 45

The Soup Issue

Bread is soup’s soulmate

BY KATE PAPPAS

COURTESY PHOTO

Crusty sourdough filoni

T

here’s no better time to partake in a bowl of steaming fragrant soup than during these cool, crisp autumn days.

But we at Devour must interrupt your first slurp to ensure that you are appropriately prepared for your meal. Each soup, chowder or bisque requires the perfect doughy companion with which to dip, dunk and sop up every last bite. Simply put: Friends don’t let friends eat soup without bread.

Fortunately, there are two local grain giants that have perfected the art of breadmaking and are sharing their suggestions for soup and bread pairings.

Stone Ground Bakery and Vosen’s Bread Paradise both have a head-spinning array of bread and baked goods—all freshly made each day. They are more than happy to guide you on your soup-andbread matchmaking mission. (Hint: It is impossible to make a poor choice.)

46 Devour Utah • october 2018

STONE GROUND BAKERY 1025 S. 700 West, SLC, 801-886-2336, StoneGroundBakery.com Since 1979, Stone Ground has been making carb-lovers’ dreams come true. The family-run business specializes in bakery goods ranging from breakfast breads to artisan rolls and gourmet buns. Siblings and owners Derrick Schmerse and Tammy Hines use age-old family recipes and suggest the following three options to pair with your soup du jour.

Rustic Sourdough Filoni

Stone Ground’s prized creation is the tangy rustic sourdough filoni, made from a 35-year-old sour starter (a replacement for yeast). It’s the same crispy crusted bread offered tableside at Market Street Grill locations where you’re likely to ask for more (and more). Consider also Stone Ground’s soup bowl, which is made similarly to the sourdough filoni (with less of the sour starter) and complements thicker soups and chowders.

Pairs well with: Clam chowder Chicken and dumpling soup Goulash

Baci Roll

The dense baci roll is popular among Stone Ground customers for its versatility. The rolls come in asiago, harvest grain or Tuscan styles and feature a chewy consistency with a caramelized crust. Just reheat them to achieve desired crispiness.

Pairs well with: Chicken noodle soup Lentil soup Vegetable soup

COURTESY PHOTO

Versatile baci roll

Breadsticks

Stone Ground’s breadsticks are perfectly suited for your meal. Expertly fermented and steamed, they come plain with a crunchy exterior and chewy crust, or “loaded” with garlic, onions and parmesan cheese.

Pairs well with: Bean soup Minestrone Tomato basil soup

COURTESY PHOTO

Classic breadsticks

Devour Utah • october 2018

47

VOTED THE WORLD’S BEST LOBSTER ROLL

Park City 1897 Prospector Ave

MON - SAT 11am - 8 PM 435.631.YUM1 www.freshieslobsterco.com

48 Devour Utah • october 2018

Salt Lake City 356 E. 900 S.

DEREK CARLISLE

The Soup Issue

Vosen’s Bread Paradise 328 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-322-2424, Vosen.com In 1997, master baker Markus Vosen put Vosen’s Bread Paradise on the map as the German bakery in Utah. Since taking over the business in 2004, David and Michelle Porter have continued to employ the artisan methods Vosen perfected, along with introducing David’s own culinary innovations: Nutella pastry and croi-liners, anyone? But first, consider these three options to accompany your soupy desires.

Bauernbrot

This robust and full-flavored German farmer bread is one of Vosen’s most popular classic bakery offerings. The white-rye flour combination makes it a versatile companion to many soups.

Pairs well with: Broccoli cheddar soup Cauliflower soup German potato soup

DEREK CARLISLE

DEREK CARLISLE

Seven-grain bread

Bauernbrot farmerstyle bread

Pretzel Roll

You can’t mention a German bakery without a pretzel-inspired creation. This pretzel roll has a crisp, salty crust and a soft interior. If you don’t accidently devour it on its own, it makes a perfect soup sidekick.

Pairs well with: Beer and cheese soup French onion soup Lobster bisque

Seven-Grain Bread

Perhaps the most wholesome choice on the menu, this sevengrain bread is packed with sesame seeds, flax seeds, oats and sunflower kernels. It’s a rich, dense bread that complements less-hearty soups.

Pairs well with: Butternut squash soup Chicken noodle soup Garden vegetable soup

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The Soup Issue

LIQUID GOLD The Soup Kitchen: Four decades of comfort with breadsticks

BY KATE PAPPAS | PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR

Soup is on order at the Soup Kitchen

O

n a late August afternoon visit to the Soup Kitchen in the heart of Sugar House, several diners are hunched over their bowls as warm as the temperatures outside.

Perhaps the restaurant’s biggest compliment is that even scorching summer temps don’t deter patrons from seeking solace in a bowl of soup for a late lunch or picking up a quart to-go.

Third-generation Soup Kitchen manager Ian Mauro isn’t too surprised by this, as each year, he and others involved in the family-run business still see a steady stream of customers during summer’s sweltering months.

But like clockwork, Mauro and his family know the rustling leaves of fall and impending storms of winter signal a big shift in business, just as it has since Mauro’s grandparents, John and Betty Aitken, opened the restaurant 42 years ago. It takes but a glance at the weather forecast to gauge how busy the day will be: The colder the temperatures, the longer the lines.

In 1976, long before the booming development of Sugar House, the Aitkens opened the no-frills, cozy restaurant— much unchanged today—to offer their favorite soup recipes to hungry customers seeking comfort food, something they felt 50 Devour Utah • october 2018

was missing in the area.

The Aitkens were right, and the Soup Kitchen has enjoyed decades in business by offering fresh, made-from-scratch soups, friendly service and affordable meals. This recipe for success seemed simple enough, but it was also John’s early experiences in the food industry that defined the foundation of the restaurant.

Before ending up in Utah as a teenager following World War II, John grew up in a poor family in Glasgow, Scotland, where having food was a luxury. John remembers singing songs with his siblings in the war-torn Scottish streets in order to scrounge up enough money to buy milk and food. At that time, any food was a coveted commodity.

Several years later, John serendipitously served as a cook during the Korean War, after a tuberculosis diagnosis made him unable to serve in active duty. There, soup was commonly on the menu for the droves of soldiers he fed.

After returning from the war, he continued working in the food industry before finally opening the Soup Kitchen in 1976.

While the Aitkens had confidence in their business endeavor, it would have been difficult to predict the

Keeping to tradition at the Sugar House location

restaurant’s eventual growth to four locations across the Salt Lake Valley, and today’s necessity to make 40-45 gallons of each soup daily to keep up with demand during the busiest months.

Since the restaurant’s early days, the Soup Kitchen has expanded its menu beyond its brothy creations (and muchloved fresh, complimentary breadsticks) to include a range of salads, sandwiches and burgers. And while Mauro believes these additional offerings are certainly a contributing factor to the Soup Kitchen’s modern success, it’s equally important to stay true to the original principles his grandparents believed in, which, in large part, means “accommodating the people who have made us successful,” he says.

That includes long-time patrons, some of whom still come in daily, even on a hot afternoon, who don’t need to utter a word for the server for them to know what he or she would like to order. Those interactions make the Aitkens and the second- and third-generation family stewards most proud. It goes without saying that to step into the future, Soup Kitchen will always keep one foot firmly rooted in the past. ❖

Custom Designs Make a Great Gift

Custom design, in house work, jewelry repair, high quality diamonds, engagement rings.

801-583-2700 | 1346 S. 2100 E. SLC, UT www.redfordjewelers.com Devour Utah • october 2018

51

Devour This | Recipe

JOHN TAYLOR

INGREDIENTS To serve 4-6 1/2 cup of butter 2-4 cups flour 1 whole onion, diced 3 cloves of garlic 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon white pepper 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon sugar 2 cups diced broccoli 2 cups diced carrots 2-4 cups shredded cheddar cheese 2 cups Farmers Bros cheese sauce mix 1/2-1gallon half and half 1 teaspoon chicken bullion Partial water, as desired

The Soup Kitchen

Cheese Broccoli Soup

Vegetarian, creamy and hearty—cheese-broc rules!

BY KATE PAPPAS

A

mong the Soup Kitchen’s seven daily soup offerings, one of its most popular is the cheese broccoli. During the restaurant’s busy (read: coldest) season, employees make 45 gallons per day of this soup in large vats at their 600 North location, which is shipped every morning to the other three locations around the Salt Lake Valley. Here is a pared-down version to make in the comfort of your own home.

52 Devour Utah • october 2018

PROCESS Create a roux to serve as a soup base. Heat pot to a consistent medium (or medium-high) temperature. Melt ¼ cup of butter and approximately 2 cups of flour and add 1 teaspoon salt. Consistently stir flour-and-butter mixture for up to 10 minutes. Adjust butter-flour ratio as needed. If flour starts burning, the roux is no good.

In a separate pot, at medium temperature, combine the rest of the butter, onions, garlic, sugar and other spices and start cooking down. Once onions are sautéed, add the roux into the onion mixture. Add half and half to the mixture while stirring. (The more half and half you use, the creamier the soup. Add some water for a less creamy soup.)

Slowly add shredded cheddar cheese to mixture, followed by cheese-sauce mix while continuing to stir. (Note: If you do not mix cheese in well, it will stick to the pot and harden.) For a thicker base, add more flour to cheese mixture. Cook cheese mixture for 30-45 minutes until cheese has broken down, then simmer.

Meanwhile, boil water in a separate pot large enough to accommodate vegetables with 1 teaspoon salt and chicken bullion, if desired, for extra flavor.

Once water is boiling, add carrots and broccoli to water and parboil (partially cook) the veggies; don’t overcook as vegetables will continue cooking once added to cheese mixture.

Once the cheese base has cooked and reached desired thickness, add vegetables to mixture, as well as some water, as desired, to achieve silky smooth consistency.

Heat through and simmer for several minutes before serving. Enjoy! ❖

Celebrating a great first year

801.251.0967 33 e. 11400 s. sandy, 84070

Join us for the last of the patio days

COTTONWOOD 6405 South 3000 East 801-944-8746

DOWNTOWN 680 South 900 East 801-533-8746

PARK CITY 6585 Northth Landmark Dr. 385-649-9654 Devour Utah • october 2018

53

Scare Away Sip the

Spirit Guide

A novel approach to horror and hooch

STORY & PHOTOS BY DARBY DOYLE

Q

ueue up the e-reader, load up the audio book playlist or go oldschool with a printed volume and the option of skimming past the really scary parts. Or, in my case, flipping ahead to see if the heroine makes it out alive. No matter how you choose to peruse, check out these horror novel classics recommended by local literary experts for your October delectation. If you try out the following cocktail suggestions while reading, the only things being tortured might be your liver and your imagination.

The ability to ignore things that go bump in the night?

That’s another kind of torment, altogether.

54 Devour Utah • october 2018

Tannis Root The Cocktail:

“What have you done to him? What have you done to his eyes, you maniacs!”

—Rosemary Woodhouse

The Book: Rosemary’s Baby

by Ira Levin (1967) Recommended by: Amanda Rock, Devour contributor and goth maven When frequent Devour contributor Amanda Rock isn’t writing about her favorite vegetarian eats, you’ll often find her immersed in reading classic horror stories or working on her own scary script. Her cocktail suggestion pulls from a novel I saw first as a movie and have never quite recovered from watching; anyone else not able to look at a mirror in the dark? “Rosemary’s witch neighbors gifted her a ‘good luck charm,’ a simple pendant filled with the fictional herb, Tannis Root,” Rock says. “The necklace had a strong, pungent odor and possibly helped Rosemary conceive Satan’s baby.” We agreed this would make a fantastic botanical-focused cocktail.

Inspired by Rock’s description, I shook up an herbal and spiritforward spin on a classic Last Word cocktail using local liqueurs and bitters, and a rosemary garnish for that extra fragrant oomph.

Tannis Root 1 ounce Dented Brick Bristlecone Gin ¾ ounce Alpine liqueur (or green Chartreuse) ½ ounce maraschino liqueur ¾ ounce fresh lime juice 3 dashes Honest John celery-shishito bitters Method: Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice; shake until tin is frosty. Strain into a chilled coupe glass; garnish with a fresh rosemary sprig.

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Hastings Cutoff Spirit Guide

The Cocktail:

The Book: The Hunger

by Alma Katsu (2018) Recommended by: Stephanie Howell, Salt Lake City Public Library As if the harrowing tale of the doomed Donner Party of 1846-47 wasn’t already the stuff of nightmares, Alma Katsu’s third novel melds historical accounts of the trek with a decidedly supernatural and terrifying turn. Associate librarian Stephanie Howell at the Sprague Library recommends this novel both because of its can’t-put-it-down pace (it has already been picked up for a movie adaptation) and Katsu’s significant nod to the local landscape.

A big chunk of the book takes place in Utah: the emigrants’ 80-mile salt flats trek south of the Great Salt Lake followed a route proposed

by Lansford Hastings, a choice made with legendarily disastrous results. Howell suggested that I create a cocktail featuring Utah bourbon and salt, and she provided the perfect name: Hastings Cutoff. With ingredients inspired by our region’s settlers who had better luck, this salty local spin on an Old Fashioned is a perfect snowy-night sipper to accompany this edge-ofyour seat atmospheric novel.

Hastings Cutoff ½ teaspoon Redmond Real Salt ½ teaspoon granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika orange slice 1 ½ ounces Robbers Roost Utah Peach Whiskey 3-4 dashes Beehive Bitters caramelized orange bitters Method: Combine salt, sugar and paprika and pour on a small plate. Rub the rim of an old fashioned glass with the cut side of an orange slice, and dip half of the rim of the glass into the salt mix to coat. To the bottom of the glass, add bitters, a generous pinch of the rimming salt and the whiskey. Stir until well combined and add a large ice sphere or cube. Garnish with a swath of orange zest, or a slice of fresh peach when in season.

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redrum The Cocktail:

The Book: The Shining

by Stephen King (1977) Recommended by: Kate Jarvik Birch, visual artist and author No compendium of horror stories would be complete without at least one mention of the medium’s master, Stephen King. Utah visual artist, playwright and author (her published novels include the Perfected trilogy and Deliver Me) Kate Jarvik Birch says that, as a kid, she was hooked on the Scary Stories To Tell in the Dark series and thought she was ready for her first real horror novel. She picked The Shining and says, “I only read half of it and was so freaked out that I could hardly walk past its place on the bookshelf at night.

It had a shiny silver spine that stared out at me wherever I was in the room, like those eyes that follow you on paintings in scary stories. If that’s not the tell-tale sign of a successful horror novel, I don’t know what is. …” While reading about the resident evil inhabiting the Overlook Hotel, sip this adaptation of a Bishop Cocktail, a potent circa-1930s rum-andred wine concoction that in some recipes called for over 3 ounces of high-proof rum per serving. You’ll ideally do so on a snowed-in night when you’ve no plans to drive anywhere, as this version of the drink is still pretty potent even after reversing the historically booze-heavy proportions.

REDRUM 1½ ounces Sugar House Distillery Silver Rum ½ ounce ginger liqueur ½ ounce ruby port 2 ounces Burgundy 1 teaspoon simple syrup ½ ounce lemon juice Method: Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice and shake until just chilled.

Strain into a large red wine glass or goblet.

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Spirit Guide

The Pitcher of Oread Gray The Cocktail:

The Book: The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde (1890) Recommended by: Alan Scott, Waterpocket Distillery Part morality play, part horror plot, all wrapped up in Wilde’s oft-censored and boundary-pushing exploration of human sensuality, hedonism and debauchery. It seems fitting to pair The Picture of Dorian Gray with a tipple reminiscent of the era, a time that celebrated a diversity of bitter, sweet, bold and savory flavor profiles. Booze historian, distiller and spirits resurrectionist Alan Scott developed Waterpocket Distillery’s Oread Botanical Liqueur as an homage to the complex flavor profiles of rare 19th-century Danzig spirits. One can easily imagine the self-indulgent character Dorian Gray reveling in 58 Devour Utah • october 2018

the mercurial beauty of the Greek mountain nymphs known as the Oread, and being in equal parts impressed, compelled and horrified by their glamorous powers.

The Pitcher of Oread Gray 1½ ounces Oread Botanical Liqueur 1 sugar cube ice water Method: Like many artists of his time, Wilde famously (and prodigiously) imbibed absinthe. An anise-forward high-proof liquor, absinthe is traditionally served with a cube of sugar perched on a perforated flat spoon, over which patrons drip ice water to dilute the volatile spirit to taste. Use the same technique to slowly add ice water from an absinthe spigot (or small pitcher) to Utah-made Oread botanical liqueur.

The Boy Scout’s Demise

Christmas Land Special

The King’s English Bookshop has been matching books to readers of all ages since 1977, and its knowledgeable and helpful staff is legendary in SLC and beyond. Case in point: Upon request, bookseller Claire Margetts recommended not just one, but two horror novels and provided fantastic thematic cocktail recipes to go along with them. She nominated The Troop as a contemporary spin on classic horror tropes— think Lord of the Flies meets Walking Dead—set during a weekend scout camping trip in the Canadian wilderness that quickly goes off the rails (or would that be trails?) straight into Gore-town. Full disclosure: I was so terrified reading the reviews and fly jacket of The Troop that I haven’t (yet) made an attempt to start it, especially after an equally unsuccessful scaredy-cat attempt at reading Nick Cutter’s 2015 novel, The Deep, last year. So, I’m thankful that Margetts thoughtfully provided her recipe for a festive happy-camper sipper to go along with the heebie-jeebies and goose bumps, campfire snacks (aka gummy worms) included.

Classic horror cinema fans will immediately get the creepy Nosferatu reference. Here, it’s the license plate on the 1938 Rolls-Royce Wraith driven by author Joe Hill’s terrifyingly developed character Charles Talent Manx, who lures children Pennywise-style with car rides that transport them forevermore to Christmasland, a magical and terrifying amusement park where “Every Morning is Christmas Morning.”

The book’s protagonist, Victoria McQueen, is the only kid ever to escape Manx; that is, until years later when he abducts her son, Wayne. Don’t wait until December to pick up this mighty tome (the hardcover comes in at just shy of 700 pages) recommended by The King’s English bookseller and horror expert Claire Margetts.

While you’re at it, stir up her minty holiday homage to a White Russian. It’s pretty tasty any time of the year; candy cane garnish is optional.

The Cocktail:

The Book: The Troop by Nick Cutter (2014) Recommendation and recipe from: Claire Margetts, The King’s English Bookshop

The Boy Scout’s Demise 1½ ounces Utah vodka such as Sugar House Distillery or Beehive Distilling 2 ounces sweet & sour mix 1 ounce pineapple juice splash grenadine Method: add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice. Strain into a Collins glass (or enameled metal mug, if you’re camping) filled with crushed ice. Add a splash of grenadine; do not stir. Garnish with gummy worms.

The Cocktail:

The Book: NOS4A2 by Joe Hill (2013) Recommendation and recipe from: Claire Margetts, The King’s English Bookshop

Christmas Land Special ¾ ounce coffee liqueur ¾ ounce vodka ¾ ounce peppermint schnapps 1 ounce half and half Method: Assemble all ingredients in an Old Fashioned glass, stir well. Fill to the rim with cracked ice and garnish with a candy cane or crushed peppermints. ❖

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Things We Love

3

THINGS WE

LOVE

1

BY JERRE WROBLE

4

2 Classic Ladles Serious about soup?

Then get serious about ladles.

Sur La Table serious, that is.

Constructed with durable 18/10 stainless steel with hooks for hanging, these ladles come in multiple sizes with handles ranging from 10 inches to 13 ½ inches. Dishwasher safe, each is marked on the back as to its capacity (in ounces, cups and milliliters). From 2 ounces to 8 ounces, $18 to $29.

Sur La Table—Gateway, 10 Rio Grande St., SLC, 801-4560280; Fashion Place, 6117 S. State, Murray 801-281-6642; SurLaTable.com

1

Tureen With Lid 2 Pumpkin Handmade earthenware

tureen with well-fitting lid is an ideal way to present your autumn soup or stews as well as casseroles, ciders and even candy and nuts. Made in Portugal, the tureen is dishwasher safe and holds 67 ounces, $30. Can also purchase 16-ounce pumpkin bowls (with lids) in three harvest hues at $14/each. Sur La Table— Gateway, 10 Rio Grande St., SLC, 801-456-0280; Fashion Place, 6117 S. State, Murray 801-281-6642; SurLaTable.com

60 Devour Utah • october 2018

J White Cheddar 3 Shirley Soup & Sauce Base

Based in Lindon, Utah, Shirley J sells a “just-add-water” universal sauce mix created by food scientist Don Smith.

He named the company after his wife and began developing mixes that include Whisk Bliss, Cream Soup and Sauce Mix and the White Cheddar Soup and Sauce Base. The sauce will not curdle or fail even when frozen and re-heated. From $7.99 for 12 ounces to $29.99 for 48 ounces.

Bosch Kitchen Center, 8940 S. 700 East, Sandy, 801-562-1212, MyKitchenCenter.com

LUX Multicooker 4 Fagor Move over, Instant Pot: You’re

not the best (or only) multicooker in town! The Good Housekeeping Institute Kitchen chose the Fagor LUX as their No. 1 after the LUX came up to pressure 15 minutes faster than the Instant Pot in their lab tests. You also can clean off your counter because it’s not only an electric pressure cooker but a slow cooker, rice cooker and yogurt maker, all in one. Prices range from $109 for the 4-quart LUX to $169 for the 8-quart. Bosch Kitchen Center, 8940 S. 700 East, Sandy, 801562-1212, MyKitchenCenter.com ❖

NOW OPEN Noon - 2am Daily NEW FOOD MENU AVAILABLE LIVE MUSIC WEEKLY 1215 east Wilmington Avenue, Suite 120 | ruinslc.com

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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

FALLING IN LOVE with Utah food!

O

ctober is a good indication that harvest year to get out and Taste Utah with a fall road trip season is alive and well in Utah. and fabulous Taste Utah tips on allowing Utah food, Our restaurants and chefs are huge restaurant experiences and your tastebuds to be beneficiaries of the incredible your dining destination as you navigate your fall adventures. We are definitely your source agriculture that abounds during NORTHERN for serious insider information on where to the fall season. And no one WASATCH FRONT appreciates this more than eat and why! our customers. In Utah we have incredible October also marks the premiere of the restaurants, food service providers and Emmy award winning educational cooking SOUTHERN restaurateurs but we also have some of the program, TeenChef Pro and the “You Be The Judge” contest where you are invited best consumers anywhere! Utah restaurant super fans are Taste Utah foodies who love to participate at Judges Table each week by to know the ins and outs of Utah’s food culture tasting the dishes you see prepared every Sunday, at our three MentorChefs restaurants and deciding for and we couldn’t be more grateful for you. At the Utah Restaurant Association we are gearing up for yourself which dish should have won! We love offering you so many different ways to keepTasting Utah. season five of Taste Utah and the perfect time of

62 Devour Utah • october 2018

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

TASTE UTAH’S AUTUMN TOUR

2018

The seasonal shift from summer to fall in Utah is celebrated across the state. From the dazzling natural display of autumn colors, to the much needed drop in temperatures and the abundance of the harvest makes fall in Utah the perfect time for a Taste Utah road trip. North to south, east to west, Utah offers culinary adventures to accompany eye pleasing landscapes for days. Read below for Taste Utah’s Katy and Jami’s Culinary Road Trip Guide for Fall 2018.

CORDWOOD RESTAURANT

Situated just 4 miles beyond the east entrance of Zion’s National Park, Cordwood (formerly Buffalo Grill) is an unexpected gem and a do not miss for the Southern Utah traveler.

Above all else Cordwood is a ranch where careful management of the land and healthy sustainable food production is at the heart of their operation. What isn’t grown within the gardens and aquaponic greenhouses is honestly sourced ingredient by ingredient. Buffalo are sustainably raised on the multi-acre property, rabbits and chickens also support the ranch ecosystem and a truly unique dining experience where guests are nourished not only from the extraordinary backdrop of southern Utah but a menu that lifts the spirit and nurtures the soul.

9065 WEST HWY 9, ZION NATIONAL PARK, UT 84755 435.648.2555 SOUTHERN

SOUTHERN Devour Utah • october 2018

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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

ROCKHILL CREAMERY

A small batch creamery complete with an onsite cheese cave for impeccable aging and quality.

Located on a historic farmstead, six Brown Swiss milking cows feed in the pasture and are walked individually to the milking parlor daily. This micro-dairy satisfies the storybook image of a holistic farmstead in our hectic modern day. Rockhill cheeses are featured in several Utah restaurants and at the Richmond’s Harvest Market, hosted at Rockhill Creamery and farm on Saturdays from 10 am to 1 pm, June to October. Enjoy a day trip of Northern Utah autumnal beauty and stop by Rockhill Creamery to meet the cows, peek in the aging cave, and shop for local cheese, bread, produce, and more.

563 S. STATE STREET, RICHMOND, UT 84333 435.258.1278 NORTHERN

NORTHERN WASATCH FRONT

REDROCK BREWERY

Just off I-80 at the Kimball Junction exit, Red Rock Brewery is located in the Redstone Center, amongst many fun family activities such as Cold Stone Creamery and the Redstone Cinema. It’s the perfect spot to get away from the hustle and bustle of Park City’s Main Street. With high quality, award-winning craft brews, a full liquor and wine selection and a menu that boasts much more than your typical pub fare, you’re sure to find RedRock Brewery an enticing stop after an exquisite drive up Provo Canyon, Big Cottonwood Canyon or Parleys Canyon. Fall football is always featured on the large flatscreen tv’s and the staff is more than eager to guide you toward a beer-vana and or food coma bliss.

1640 REDSTONE CENTER DR, PARK CITY, UT 84098 435.575.0295 WASATCH FRONT 64 Devour Utah • october 2018

3 of Utah’s Hottest Chefs | 2 Burners | 1 Dream

NO ELECTRICITY… NO PROBLEM

MentorChef Justin Shifflett Stoneground Kitchen

MentorChef Jodie Rogers Deer Valley Resort

MentorChef Tyler Stokes Provisions

oin 12 aspiring Utah TeenChefs as they compete for the opportunity of a lifetime: a FOUR YEAR SCHOLARSHIP to Johnson & Wales University, an educational experience unlike any other, and the ultimate title of TeenChef Pro CHAMPION.

J

Mentored by 3 of Utah’s hottest chefs; MentorChef Justin Shifflett of Stoneground Kitchen, MentorChef Jodie Rogers of Deer Valley Resort and MentorChef Tyler Stokes of Provisions and hosted by Utah favorite Michael McHenry; Restaurateur & Founder of the McHenry Group. Each week the aspiring TeenChefs are introduced to culinary themes, guest judges and the culinary curveball. Can these TeenChefs take the HEAT and make the cut? Don’t miss Season 4 of TeenChef Pro! Play along each week in the You Be The Judge contest by dining at all 3 of our MentorChefs restaurants as they feature their team’s weekly dish on their restaurant menus.

Get or yF d a e R hef C n e Te ason e S Pro 4

Beginning October 14, 2018 NEW TIME SUNDAYS at 9:30AM on NEW STATION ABC Good4Utah, KUTX

YOU BE THE JUDGE CONTEST

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Last Bite

VINCE CORAK

Avgolemono

Soup Gods

How veggies achieve immortality as soup

BY ELENI SALTAS

M

y dad was raised in Lead Mine, a now-vanished mining town in Bingham Canyon. His parents, Pete Saltas and Stella Nepolis Saltas, were children of Greek immigrants (actually, the mother of my grandmother, Stella, was a Mormon pioneer). They were brought up on the mentality of “waste not, want not.” If something was broken, they fixed it. Hand-me-down clothes and pants with patches or authentic holes and rips were the norm—and food was never wasted.

It’s said that Americans throw out 150,000 tons of food each day, most of it fruit and vegetable produce. My grandparents never threw out produce because they would make it into a vegetable broth or a fruit dessert before it went bad.

One of the most satisfying soups that uses a bit of this and that is a simple vegetable soup. My papou (grandfather) Pete would make it regularly using vegetables he found in the kitchen. Some call this the “kitchen-sink soup” because everything and anything goes in (except the kitchen sink).

To make this soúpa, just keeping adding veggies to create layers of flavors. The trick is to simmer the soup low and slow so flavors blend together. A Greek cook might call this process pantremeni, which means “to be married.” Start with tougher root vegetables such as carrots and celery and then add those that take less time to cook such as cabbage, spinach and onions. For the broth, use a combination of vegetable stock, olive oil and water. Make sure your vegetables are always 66 Devour Utah • october 2018

covered. For extra zest, add some splashes of spicy V8 juice to the mix. Season with salt, pepper and plenty of oregano. Cook until the vegetables are tender, and you’re satisfied with the taste. And remember, soup always tastes better the next day.

In some cultures, soup is considered a starter to a meal, but Greeks are known to serve soup as a main course. In fact, soup is central to Greek cuisine and enjoyed year-round. When Greeks are fasting from meat and dairy, they fuel up on a soup called fakes (pronounced fah-kess). It’s a nutritional powerhouse comprised of lentils, vegetables and extra virgin olive oil. Once ladled into the bowl, my dad would drizzle red wine vinegar on top. In the frigid winter months, my mom makes batches of avgolemono, the delicious egg (avgo) and lemon (lemono) broth that’s added to hot chicken or vegetable stock with rice or orzo. Not only does it taste like the ultimate comfort food, it’s a popular cure-all that will nip any cold in the butt.

For Greeks, there is a soup for every occasion, and each is hearty, healthy and made with humble ingredients. You’ll always find a loaf of warm bread on the dinner table to ensure not even a drop is wasted.

So, look around your kitchen on a regular basis. Check the produce bins in your fridge and give all your veggies a good squeeze. If any are on the verge of spoiling, just slice and dice them. Add them to boiling water with oil and salt, then simmer and use for either stock or soup. The only ingredient required is some imagination. ❖

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68 Devour Utah • october 2018