an epicurean experience s u m m e r 2016
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5 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR • 8 CHEFS' MORSELS • 10 FEATURE STORY
F E AT UR E D R E S TA UR A N T S Aspen
Snowmass
Ashcroft's Pine Creek Cookhouse 12 Ellina
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Kenichi
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Mawa's Kitchen
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The Red Onion
18
The Edge
22
Maru
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Rustique
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McKenney's
17
The White House Tavern 20
Venga Venga
23
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PUBLISHER Samantha Johnston EDITOR Lauren Glendenning PHOTO EDITOR Jeremy Wallace COPY EDITOR Evan Gibbard CONTRIBUTORS Amiee White Beazley Jill Beathard DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Maria Wimmer MAGAZINE AND SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR Ashton Hewitt BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR David Laughren ACCOUNT MANAGERS Hank Carter, Tim Kurnos, Amy Laha, Max Vadnais, Louise Walker PUBLICATION ART DIRECTOR Malisa Samsel DESIGN TEAM MANAGER Afton Pospíšilová DESIGN TEAM Carly Arnold, Darin Bliss, Ashley Detmering, Amy Hawf, Madelyn LyBarger
EAT is a publication of
XX X XX
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314 E. Hyman Ave. #101 Aspen, CO 81611 p. 970-925-3414 | f. 970-925-6240 Copyright © 2016 The Aspen Times All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without express written permission is strictly prohibited.
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FR OM T HE E DI TOR
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ON THE COVER Quinoa and arugula salad with butternut squash, pomegranate, Parmesan cheese, pepitas and Champagne vinaigrette.
Photo by Jeremy Wallace
s the seasons change in Aspen and Snowmass, so do restaurant menus. We live in a valley where “fresh and seasonal” isn’t just a sound bite chefs use as PR — here, it’s the only way to succeed. The restaurants in this piece invited us in to take a look at what they’re doing this summer. We tasted their food, experienced their dining rooms and chatted with their chefs and owners in an effort to describe the experience they offer. What we found was really good food, but more importantly, we noticed one common theme across all of the restaurants we visited: passion. In a town like Aspen, passion is what makes a restaurant stand out. Good food, service and atmosphere certainly help, but passion is what translates to customers. We feel it as an enthusiastic server describes the night’s specials, when the sushi chef behind the counter gleefully explains what type of fish he’s slicing or when a bartender talks about the history of the particular spirit he or she is pouring. The restaurants in this piece are excited about what they’re doing this summer, and we’re excited to tell you about it in this summer edition of EAT.
Cheers to a summer of delicious eating (and drinking), Lauren Glendenning Editor Mawa's Kitchen
page 15
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E AT S U M M E R 2 0 1 6
Which food trend do you wish would go away? Anything with foam, smoke — foo-foo food. If it doesn’t add to the overall flavor of the dish, don’t put it on the plate. I don’t care how good it looks.
MAWA MCQUEEN Chef-owner, Mawa's Kitchen in Aspen and Market Street Kitchen in Basalt What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? I love fried whole fish — people think I’m a healthy eater, or a Champagne-and-caviar girl, but I can demolish an entire fried fish. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Foodie. What does it even mean? What qualifies you to be a foodie? We all love food. We eat three meals a day. The word has no meaning to me.
What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Clean, simple cooking. People over-complicate things. It’s all a show. What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? Cassava. It’s underutilized. You can use it for a lot of dishes; you can make flour out of it. What’s your favorite Coloradogrown/raised ingredient? Peaches. I love peaches, and not only are Colorado peaches delicious, there are just so many ways you can use them. Savory dishes, sweet dishes, grilled with some vanilla ice cream — I could go on and on.
What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Fried plantain — one of my favorite foods as a child in the Ivory Coast. A VIP enters your restaurant and gives you 100 percent creative freedom. What do you make? African food. I love the warmth, the spices, and I want them to experience different cultures, flavors and textures and share some of my childhood favorites. Instagramming food pictures — good or bad? Why? Bad. Everyone thinks they are some sort of food photographer these days, and it's a shame to see something a chef has taken great care to create get cold so someone can get “likes” from their 10 followers. I think cell phones should be safely stashed away when you go out to eat anyway.
CHRIS KEATING Chef, Pine Creek Cookhouse What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? The flavor from the Big Mac. That’s award-winning.
Co-owner/sushi chef, Maru What’s your favorite food/ dish from your childhood? Waffles. Name a dish you’re ashamed to love. Big Macs. Name the most underrated ingredient. Honey. It’s your last meal on Earth — what do you eat? Tacos. Name a product you’re really into right now. Aji (Japanese horse mackerel); PB&Js. Instagramming food pictures while dining — good or bad? I love when people take pictures of our food.
What’s your favorite Coloradogrown/raised ingredient? The one I’m using now — beef from Kurt Russel’s Home Run Ranch in Old Snowmass.
What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? I love her tortilla soup — it’s off the charts.
What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Bacon and ice cream.
TAYLOR HALE
You just got home after a long shift, what do you make yourself to eat/drink? I’m going to have an ice-cold beer, and it’s going to be a very light beer like a PBR or a Budweiser, and to eat, I’ll go with cheese and crackers.
Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Sustainable.
Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. French fries.
What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? My husband is German, so of course I love when he makes veal schnitzel.
C HEF S' M ORSEL S
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Describe your perfect food day. A late-morning breakfast of over-easy eggs, toast, tomatoes — very simple. For lunch, I’m a sandwich guy. I love cold cuts. Dinner, I would say chicken piccata. Instagramming food pictures — good or bad? Why? People can do whatever they want to do. I never want to stop anyone from having a good time. Which food trend do you wish would go away? Anything that has to do with tweezers and molecular gastronomy. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Poaching. What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? Freshly foraged items.
MATT DRAPER Chef, Kenichi Aspen What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Funyuns. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Umami. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? English breakfast. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. Clams and/or oysters. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Chicago-style pizza. Describe your perfect food day. Vietnamese, sushi, barbecue. Instagramming food pictures — good or bad? Why? Good. It allows you to see what's trending. You should be proud of your work by sharing. Which food trend do you wish would go away? Massive, sloppy burgers.
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You just got home after a long shift — what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Maybe four strong drinks and an ice-cream sundae.
What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Using a knife properly — put the machines away! What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? Octopus. It’s a challenge to make it tender. You just got home after a long shift — what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Spicy noodles, whiskey.
Name the best restaurant you’ve eaten at recently? The Pullman, Glenwood Springs. Instragramming food pictures while dining — good or bad? Bad. Enjoy the food in the moment.
What’s your favorite Coloradogrown/raised ingredient? Lamb and Aspen Brewing Company. The emerging no-tipping policy — good or bad? Bad.
What’s your favorite Coloradogrown/raised ingredient? Bright lights chard.
PETER COYNE Maru Aspen
STEVEN MCKENNEY Chef, McKenney’s at The Inn/European Caterers What’s your favorite food/ dish from your childhood? My mom’s spaghetti sauce. What’s a dish you’re ashamed to love? Tuna melt burritos with extra pickles, tomato and fresh jalapeño. Name the most underrated ingredient. The Aplaceae, commonly known as the celery, carrot or parsley family, are a family of mostly aromatic plants with hollow stems. It’s your last meal on earth — what do you eat? Doesn’t matter as long as I am with people who I am close to. Name a product you’re really into right now. Kahlua pulled pork pretty much on anything. What do you make for dinner at home after a long shift? Fried-egg sandwich with salsa verde. Does bourbon and a beer count?
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Corn dogs. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Sexy. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? Blueberry pancakes. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. Chili relleno. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Sushi. A VIP enters your restaurant and gives you 100 percent creative freedom. What do you make? Whole Kinmedai sashimi with yuzu juice and white soy sauce and braised octopus over seaweed salad with brown butter ponzu foam on top. Which food trend do you wish would go away? Staff meal. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Slow-roasting. What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? House-made fermentation.
ROB ITTNER Owner, Rustique Bistro/ Cooking School of Aspen What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Smartfood popcorn (not really ashamed). Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Farm-to-table. Food comes from farms, and we serve it on tables, so what does it really mean? I love fresh, local, organic and naturally raised food. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? I am single, so any single female that wants to come over and cook for me — that dish is my favorite. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. Octopus and pork belly. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Octopus and pork belly. (Not as my only food; that would be crazy.) Describe your perfect food day. In a new location somewhere around the world, experimenting with tasting the local street food, then a well-thought-out tasting menu that night!
Instagramming food pictures — good or bad? Why? Great. We taste with our eyes first, and food is inspirational. I get all kinds of great ideas from social-media food shots, and I hope people get the same inspiration from my posts. Which food trend do you wish would go away? Kale. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Sous vide — it’s simple and easy! What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? So many! Right now I am playing with small hits of flavor in dishes that start as out of place but redirect the palate. Chocolate on beef, mint salt on asparagus, curried peach on salmon. Just a small amount from someone to say … “What was that redirect of flavor?” You just got home after a long shift — what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Water and toast of nice bread with cheese and pâté. What’s your favorite Coloradogrown/raised ingredient? Peaches in season.
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epicurean evolution IN ASPEN RESTAURANTS, ADAPTATION IS KEY by LAUREN GLENDENNING
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n a town such as Aspen, longevity in the restaurant business is something to be celebrated. There are many restaurants in town that can count their years of business into double digits, but that success doesn’t come easy. The Food & Wine Classic kicks off the summer season in Aspen in mid-June, when celebrity chefs and TV food personalities descend on this quaint mountain town and turn it into a haven for all things food and wine. In a panel moderated by TV host, author and chef Andrew Zimmern at this summer’s Classic, the theme of adaptation in a constantly evolving industry emerged. “Life is not planned very well — it’s shot at us at point-blank range,” Zimmern said. In Aspen, adaptation looks a little different from how it does in markets like New York or San Francisco. Here, the seasonality of the town means chefs and restaurateurs have to be good planners. Rob Ittner, owner of Rustique Bistro and the Cooking School of Aspen, says the fluctuation of business levels is a constant challenge but that it’s “the nature of the beast.” “I think it’s one of the reasons why new restaurants fail so often here,” he says. “They don’t know that cycle, those systems.” Food & Wine Classic weekend is a perfect example. Ittner says restaurants are overflowing with guests and that the new spots in town might come off that weekend on a high. But you can’t get excited about one weekend, he says. “A businessperson doesn’t look at a weekend to make or break their business — you have to look at it over the entire year,” he says. The seasonality of Aspen, as well as the fluctuations in business from tourists and locals over the course of the year, means restaurants have to connect with their customers and recognize their needs and desires, says Brent Reed, co-owner of Kenichi.
The tourist market is constantly changing, Reed notes. It went from a lot of Europeans and affluent Americans pre-recession to a larger mix of Australians, Brazilians and New Zealanders and some Mexicans, all of whom saved Aspen to some extent, he says. “We have to work and adapt with the customer, recognize who they are and cater to them the best we can,” Reed says. The same happens at Maru, where chef and co-owner Peter Coyne says they’re experimenting with food a lot in the offseasons in order to see what people like. One way adaptation is somewhat easier in a place like Aspen — or in America in general — is because there aren’t as many cultural boundaries that keep chefs locked into certain traditions, Coyne says. In Aspen, the local residents are an important part of the business, but chefs and restaurant owners realize that visitors are what make or break their businesses. But while Aspen restaurants have to continually adapt, they also can’t forget consistency, says Steven McKenney, chef/owner of McKenney’s at The Inn and European Caterers. “If you put out a consistent, clean product and good service, you will be successful in this valley,” he says, pointing toward long-standing restaurants in town such as Pinions, Cache Cache, Campo de Fiori and Jimmy’s. But globally, dining has become entertainment, Ittner points out. It has become so creative that people want and expect those moments of surprises, he says. “That’s what we’ve done with the Cooking School — showcase the little things we do behind the scenes,” Ittner says. “With Rustique, we took a French bistro menu and trimmed it back and put more specials on a daily basis for more creativity and excitement about specialty products. It’s a challenge to stay up with that excitement, but I’d also call it an opportunity.” •
photos top to bottom
Cooking School of Aspen owner Rob Ittner, left, chats with attendees about wine. photo by jeremy wallace
The patio at Pine Creek Cookhouse offers spectacular views of the Elk Mountains. photos by jeremy wallace
Sushi chef Kiyomi Sano behind the lively sushi bar at Kenichi. courtesy of kenichi
A businessperson doesn’t look at a weekend to make or break their business — you have to look at
it over the entire year.”
— Rob Ittner, Rustique/ Cooking School of Aspen
We have to work and adapt with the customer, recognize who they are and
cater to them the best we can .” — Brent Reed, Kenichi
E AT S U M M E R 2 0 1 6
ashcroft ' s
P I NE CR E E K C O O K H O U S E
by LAUREN GLENDENNING • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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here’s no cell service here in the middle of the Elk Mountains, and that’s only part of the beauty of dining at Pine Creek Cookhouse. When you step off your bike, or out of your hiking shoes or waders, stop and listen to the sound of silence — the lovely sound of nature, where not even a cell-phone ring can interrupt it. Pine Creek Cookhouse is worthy of a visit based on atmosphere alone, but a taste of this log cabin’s hearty alpine cuisine makes a meal here practically mandatory. One of chef Chris Keating’s favorite times of day is the late afternoon, when the high mountain peaks glisten under the glow of the setting sun. You can do a guided fishing trip on the property and finish the tour at a patio table at the Cookhouse. It’s the perfect time to enjoy a beer or a glass of wine with the smoked trout, a dish that takes about 12 hours to prepare from the brining to the smoking over hickory chips.
The 12-hour fish is just one peek into Keating’s philosophy about food. The kitchen makes everything from scratch every day, using ingredients so fresh that you wonder how he got them to such a remote location. Keating has expanded his beef program from Kurt Russell’s Home Run Ranch in Old Snowmass. In
Not to Miss Spectacular scenery from the 5,000-square-foot custom patio. Fresh, innovative cuisine inspired by the mountain environment. No cell service means you can escape for an experience that is purely your own.
12500 CASTLE CREEK ROAD • 970-925-1044 WWW.PINECREEKCOOKHOUSE.COM
PRICES Lunch appetizers, $15 to $26; lunch entrées, $17 to $34; dinner appetizers, $15 to $26; dinner entrées, $19 to $49. AMBIENCE Mountain chic, rustic, scenic. SIGNATURE DISHES Nightly specials; wild salmon (preparation changes throughout the winter); buffalo tenderloin; Colorado elk bratwurst (lunch) with caramelized onion, peppadew pepper salsa, Dijon sauce, pretzel bread roll, farro and kale salad, and jardinière vegetables; Kurt Russell’s Home Run Ranch beef patty melt (lunch) with wild mushrooms, caramelized onions, Gruyère cheese, toasted sourdough bread, arugula and marinated vegetables
addition the the patty melt, one of Pine Creek’s top lunch sellers, Keating is now offering Home Run Ranch New York strips and tenderloins. Spradley Farms in Missouri Heights, about 25 miles downvalley, is raising chickens exlusively for Pine Creek Cookhouse as well as baby kale and other vegetables. “It’s what I call ‘beyond organic,’” Keating quips. “The federal government doesn’t even know what’s going on — it’s top-secret.” The fish program features wildcaught salmon and steelhead from the Pacific Northwest. Fish that were swimming on Monday morning can make it to the cookhouse’s kitchen by Tuesday morning thanks to priority FedEx overnight shipping, Keating says. One thing you won’t find at Pine Creek Cookhouse is foam on your plate. When things started turning molecular in upscale kitchens across the country and in Aspen, Keating knew he needed to move to a place where he could cook simply. At Pine Creek Cookhouse, you’ll find delicious food without a lot of fuss. Sherpas from Nepal who used to work in the Everest base camps have been members of Pine Creek Cookhouse’s kitchen for decades. Their
influences are scattered throughout the menu, but one of the most popular items going 30 years strong are the wild game momos, Nepalese dumplings made with buffalo, herbs and spices. Pine Creek Cookhouse is one of the area’s oldest restaurants for good reason — there just doesn’t seem to be anything they’re doing wrong here. So go ahead, ditch your cell service for a few hours and enjoy a blissful day or evening of hiking, biking or fishing, or a simple road trip through the Castle Creek Valley, followed by awesome alpine cuisine in the heart of the Elk Mountains. “By the time the day is over, people don’t even know what planet they’re on,” Keating says. “Their cell phones have been off for hours.” top left: Spradley Family Farms Chicken Picatta with Israeli couscous, sweet peas, kale, curry-roasted tomatoes, lemon-thyme sauce. top right: Butcher and cheese plate. left: Kurt Russell's Home Run Ranch beef patty melt with wild mushroom, carmelized onions, Gruyere cheese on toasted sourdough with a fried organic egg on top, served with arugula salad.
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AS P E N
Not to Miss A top fine-dining experience in a cozy atmosphere. Excellent wine selection. The bar menu.
E LLIN A
430 E. HYMAN AVE. 970-925-2976 WWW.ELLINAASPEN.COM
by JILL BEATHARD • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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llina stands out for its elegant food and award-winning wine selection, but the atmosphere, created not only by the beauty of the space but also the hospitality of its staff, is warm and welcoming. Chef Miguel Diaz has created delicious food that pulls flavors from a variety of influences, but he’s always trying to keep up with what’s in, as well, changing out about a third of the menu every season. But some things just can’t be replaced, such as the braised artichoke heart bruschetta and seared Mediterranean octopus, appetizers that have been on the menu since the day Ellina opened in 2009 and aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. On the entrée side, a staple of the bar menu is the chicken Milanese. Topped with arugula, tomatoes, shaved Parmesan and lemon dressing, this is comfort food without the guilt. Just the right kind of meal after a day of skiing, it’s no wonder this dish is a longtime local favorite.
Another classic Diaz likes to show off is the Harris Ranch New York strip. A soft-spoken man, Diaz may as well let the Barolo wine sauce do the talking. Served with a side of pencil asparagus, crimini mushrooms and onion rings (made in-house), this is a classic steakhouse dish yet unlike anything you’ve had before. No story about Ellina would be complete without a mention of its wine selection, though. Curated by sommelier Jill Carnevale, Wine Spectator magazine has given it a nod in its annual award series four times. And with an affordable but equally delicious bar menu, Ellina has become a popular spot for Aspen locals. A cozy respite on a cool winter day, Ellina is located on the garden level on the Hyman Avenue mall. But the best spots on a clear night are certainly the patio seats, located inside the restaurant’s courtyard underneath heaters. Ellina opens at 5:30 p.m. nightly.
PRICES $12 to $52. AMBIENCE Cozy, fine dining. SIGNATURE DISHES Braised artichoke heart bruschetta; seared Mediterranean octopus; Harris Ranch New York strip steak.
top left: Lobster capellini: Maine lobster, applewood smoked bacon, cherry tomatoes, basil pesto. top right: Braised artichoke heart bruschetta with shaved
truffle and creamy Parmesan. bottom: Harris Ranch filet mignon with creamed spinach, oyster mushrooms, sweet potato croutons, Barolo wine sauce.
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K EN I C H I
533 E. HOPKINS AVE. 970-920-2212 WWW.KENICHIASPEN.COM
by LAUREN GLENDENNING • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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enichi head sushi chef Kiyomi Sano and sous chef Matthew Draper have more than 50 years experience between the two of them. They know their way around a sushi kitchen, but don’t expect that to mean a menu that’s familiar. Kenichi is all about fresh, creative food. The restaurant is bringing in fresh fish from Japan and inventing new flavor combinations just about daily. Co-owner Brent Reed’s philosophy is simple: The sky’s the limit when it comes to the menu. “How do I inspire the chefs to dig deep down within themselves?” he says. With specialty fish shipments coming in from Japan, Reed notes that some nights you might see as many as 10 different types of white fish on the menu — that’s in addition to an already robust menu of specialty rolls, sashimi, appetizers and entrées. “We get as good a product here as Tokyo,” Reed says. The hot kitchen can accommodate just about any palate. Don’t like fish? No problem. Kenichi’s steaks are some of the best in town. Perhaps the most exciting way to
Not to Miss Happy-hour drink specials and half-price rolls from 5 to 6 p.m. nightly. Walk-ins welcome at the bar and sushi bar. Nightly specials featuring a variety of specialty fish from Japan.
dine here is to go with friends and share interesting dishes like the wild boar gyoza or the dynamite lobster or shrimp. Get a hot rock for tableside tempanyaki and sear luscious pieces of Wagyu ribeye at 1,000 degrees. The hip yet cozy dining room is great for families or groups, or for a more traditional sushi experience, sit at the sushi bar (no reservations required) and watch the team carefully slice each piece of fish. “We like to consider our sushi simple but elegant,” Draper says,
PRICES Appetizers, $8 to $28; sushi rolls, $9 to $23; entrées, $29 to $56; specialty fish, $12 to $36; bar menu, $6 to $21. AMBIENCE Dark and elegant dining room that’s warm and inviting. SIGNATURE DISHES Specialty rolls like the greentail; appetizers like the pork spareribs or the dynamite shrimp; steaks.
adding that constant communication with fish suppliers means he’s getting fresh, diverse shipments that change with the seasons. Spanish Macherae, known as aji, is one of his favorites as of late. Get it as sashimi, or look for it as a special. For roll lovers, Kenichi is the spot for you. Don’t miss the greentail, with blackened yellowtail, tempura asparagus, scallions, avocado, serrano peppers for heat and a little basil yuzu to finish it off. Just about everyone on staff has their Level 1 sommelier certification,
too, so choosing wine or sake pairings is never a problem. top left: Ishiyaki hot rock featuring Wagyu beef. top right: From top to bottom, the greentail roll with blackened yellowtail and serrano pepper, the godzilla roll with broiled eel and strawberry, and a rainbow roll with snow crab and avocado, inside-out and topped with various types of fish. bottom: Yellowtail serrano with basil yuzu soy.
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M AWA’ S K I T C HE N 305F ASPEN BUSINESS CENTER • 970-544-4862 WWW.MAWASKITCHEN.COM by LAUREN GLENDENNING photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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ith a mix of cultures influencing its cuisine, Mawa’s Kitchen is a bright and beautiful display of fresh, tasty food without a lot of frills. Mawa McQueen, the chef and owner, likes to note that there’s nothing “foo foo” about her menu. She takes pride in using fresh, nutritious ingredients. “No foam and all that,” she says. “No fuss with the ingredients.” The results are creative and packed with flavor — with prices that won’t break the bank. McQueen was born in Ivory Coast and grew up in Paris. Her cuisine melds together African, French and American influences. She takes seemingly simple ideas like tartines — French, open-faced sandwiches on fresh, rustic bread — and elevates them beautifully. The
Not to Miss Fresh salads, sandwiches and soups at reasonable prices. Excellent selection of gluten-free dishes. Summer outdoor seating.
PRICES $12 to $16 for lunch; $9 to $15 for breakfast/brunch. AMBIENCE Casual dining room for breakfast and lunch with natural light and lively kitchen. Patio seating available all summer. SIGNATURE DISHES French tartines — try the smashed avocado or the hummus and veggie; arugula and quinoa salad with pomegranate, squash and pepitas; homemade breads, soups and desserts.
avocado version, for example, packs a hint of curry flavor with cilantro, pomegranate and lime. A hummus version comes with roasted red peppers, capers and olives. McQueen is firm in her dedication to quality. For privately catered events such as weddings or private dinners, she caps the number of people at about 100 because anything beyond that hurts the quality of the food, she says. She started her catering business in 2007 and expanded to private dinners in 2014. She remodeled her commercial kitchen space in the Aspen Business Center to include a dining room in November 2015. It’s a cozy space with an open kitchen that guests walk through as they enter the restaurant. She also recently opened the Market Street Kitchen near the Element Hotel in Basalt. Mawa’s is now offering a weekend brunch, in addition to her Monday through Friday lunch service, featuring classic dishes with her own twist. Her smoothie bowl
($12) is a delightful blend of avocado, kale, a little honey and almond milk or rice milk. She tops it with chia seeds, granola, banana, kiwi and raspberry. Another smoothie bowl features almond milk, peanut butter, dark cocoa powder and avocado, blended and topped with banana, dates and honey crisp puff cereal — a protein-rich meal with good fats, she notes. It tastes like creamy chocolate peanut butter pudding. Gluten-free breads — all made in-house — are available for dine-in or takeout, and she offers gluten-free desserts, too — don’t miss her delicious carrot cake. In a hurry? Order takeout sandwiches, salads (salmon Nicoise, quinoa and arugula, and others) or her popular lunch box. And orders over $100 get free delivery around Aspen and Snowmass. “Food is not complicated,” she says. “I’m not fancy. I like good, healthy food.” top: Italian sandwich with ham, salami, prosciutto, mozzarella, pepperoncini, tomato, pickled onion and aged balsamic. middle: Smashed avocado tartine with curry, cilantro, lime, pomegranate seeds and micro daikon radish. bottom: Smoothie bowl with avocado, almond milk, kale and honey topped with chia seeds, granola, banana, kiwi and raspberry.
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M AR U 320 S. MILL ST. • 970-429-8640 WWW.MARUASPEN.COM by LAUREN GLENDENNING • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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aru might be Aspen’s newest sushi restaurant, but the guys behind the sushi bar and in the kitchen have been around Aspen’s sushi scene for decades. Sit down at the sushi bar while head sushi chef and Maru coowner Taylor Hale is there, and you’ll see true passion going into every knife stroke. You might even learn a little something, too. Hale’s on a mission this summer to get what no one else is getting. He’s especially excited about what’s called a Japan fish box — essentially an order that comes in from his fish supplier that features some of the lesser-known fish swimming in the Sea of Japan. “It’s completely seasonal, random, wild Japanese fish,” Hale says. “It’s wildly diverse. They’re catching everything.” A typical box has nine different fish, giving Hale the opportunity to create what’s basically a completely separate menu of seasonal fish with a lot of sashimi-based specials. “Japan is not a culture of wastefulness,” he says. In the kitchen, co-owner and chef Peter Coyne is using some of the fish-box ingredients alongside fresh, local produce like wild asparagus and chanterelle mushrooms. Maru is running specials that offer cooked and raw versions of some fish, too. Talk to Coyne and Hale about something on the menu, and you’re also likely to get the backstory — as in the ancient history of that food. When discussing a ramennoodle dish, Coyne started talking about the noodles’ origin in ancient Mongolia and “master broths” that traveling merchants used to bring from town to town in China. Hale will tell you about ancient sushi techniques or why things are prepared a certain way.
Not to Miss Killer patio seating near Wagner Park, lunch or dinner. Happy-hour specials or the nightly omakase. Unique, seasonal fish selection.
The history of food is fun," Coyne says. "It takes respect and discipline to have your classics down, Hale says. "There's purpose to everything." It’s this kind of passion that shines through in everything Maru creates. And its plating is some of the prettiest anywhere in town. Go for some of the sashimi specials, and try what’s in that seasonal fishbox. On a recent visit, delicate slices of madai, a red seabream fish that’s silky and flavorful, were accompanied by isaki, aji and renkodai. Never heard of these fish? All the more reason to visit Maru. These chefs will open your eyes to Japanese fish that you won’t find on every American sushi-restaurant menu. Step away from the hamachi, salmon and tuna, and try something outside the box. It’s an adventure for any sushi lover. top: Salmon and chives wrapped with daikon radish in a cilantro vinegar sauce. middle: Different preparations of isaki, aji and renkodai. bottom: Furikake (a blend of sesame, seaweed and other spices) crusted tuna with black garlic sauce.
PRICES Appetizers, $6 to $21; specialty sashimi, $14 to $25; rolls, $8 to $22; entrées, $22 to $48. AMBIENCE Japanese sushi bar, cozy. SIGNATURE DISHES Rotating sashimi specials, nightly omakase, sesame-seared salmon.
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PRICES Appetizers, $8 to $12; mains, $14 to $22; pizzas, $14 to $26 (12-inch and 18-inch available). AMBIENCE Slopeside pub. SIGNATURE DISHES Fish and chips: deep-water cod with fries and tartar sauce; Hawaiian pulled pork pizza with Asian barbecue and jalapeños; Red Bird chicken with chimichurri.
M C K EN NE Y’ S AT T H E I N N 38750 HIGHWAY 82 • INN AT ASPEN • 970-925-1500 • WWW.INNATASPEN.COM by LAUREN GLENDENNING • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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rom an expansive patio at the base of Buttermilk or from the warmth by the cozy fireplace inside, McKenney’s at The Inn is serving up slopeside food that covers all the bases from ambience to flavor. Steven McKenney, also the owner of European Caterers, has developed a menu that truly speaks to foodies, barflies and children alike, which is just the way he wants it. “We keep the variety working with the classics,” he says. “And we’re doing really nice, playful food.” There are fun twists and turns all over the menu, like the Irish nachos with a blend of cheeses,
jalapeños, bacon, green onions and sour cream. Five quesadilla options include classics like chicken or cheese, but opt for the grilled shrimp and Spanish chorizo version or the smoked duck with balsamic and chipotle. For anyone biking by Buttermilk or driving downvalley after a hard day of working or playing, this is a place to stop and nourish. Comforting classics are scattered around the menu, like lamb and beef shepherd’s pie, fish and chips or baked macaroni and cheese “for grown-ups.” There are 11 pizza options to choose from, like the White Out,
Not to Miss An affordable, quality meal for the whole family. Your next celebration. Toasting the day with a drink in front of the game or outside on the huge patio.
with roasted garlic, Greek olives and herbs. The barbecue chicken and Pro Shoot pizzas are other favorites, the former featuring barbecue sauce, onion and cilantro and the latter topped with shaved prosciutto, arugula and balsamic. There are burgers and “things in bread” like grilled ahi tuna, Hawaiian pulled pork (available on a pizza, too) or a lemon artichoke Mediterranean white bean burger. But the menu offers lighter fare, too, like a beautiful kale and quinoa salad with fresh fruit or the roasted turkey panzanella with fresh veggies and pepitas. The Inn also provides a venue for the company to stay true to its roots by hosting private events with customized menus. In addition to the bar area and dining room, the hotel offers three banquet rooms for groups. McKenney prides himself on the fact that the restaurant can work with just about any budget for larger groups. And the restaurant just needs roughly 24 hours notice to prepare for a private event as simple as a pizza party or as nice as a sit-down dinner. McKenney’s also boasts a kids menu of items, including a drink and ice-cream cup, all for $10. In addition to its young diners, the restaurant accommodates glutenfree guests with options including pizzas and most entrées. With free parking at the Inn, a bus stop right outside and live music on the patio, there’s really no reason not to stop by for a bite. top left: “The Pro Shoot” pizza with shaved prosciutto, arugula, balsamic, olive oil and shaved Parmesan. top right: Classic hot wings. bottom: Pan-seared Atlantic salmon.
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Not to Miss Historic location that epitomizes the essence of Aspen. Affordable familyfriendly atmosphere with elevated American comfort food. Live music and great happy-hour specials.
T HE R E D ONI O N 420 E. COOPER AVE. • 970-925-9955 WWW.REDONIONASPEN.COM by AMIEE WHITE BEAZLEY • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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ou might think you already know The Red Onion from its 124-year reputation alone. Yes, it is one of Aspen’s oldest establishments, famous for its historic red-brick building, but did you know that as far back as the mining era, The Red Onion was one of the town’s three fine-dining restaurants? People came to The Red Onion for a genuine Aspen dining experience, not just a beer at the bar.
Today, owners Mike Tierney and Brad Smith — and chef Michael Fiske, formerly of Pinons and the Roaring Fork Club — want to reintroduce Aspen and its visitors to The Red Onion with a thoughtful menu of elevated American fare that goes far beyond typical bar food. “I have always served unpretentious food, and I have always used the best ingredients,” Fiske says. “My philosophy remains the same — to serve simple, great-
tasting food in a manner that lets the ingredients speak for themselves.” Take for example, The Red Onion burger — one of the best in town. The burger blend of chuck, brisket and short rib is ground daily. The bun is baked fresh daily at Aspen’s own Louis Swiss Pastry and comes with a choice of cheese and eight different sides. The entire menu is served throughout the day in both the dining room and the bar, with a total of 100 seats. This summer, enjoy live music and a great happy
hour atmosphere while you enjoy the Onion’s famous ginger-lime barbecued wings and a handcrafted cocktail or locally brewed beer from Aspen Brewing Co. or Roaring Fork Beer Co. top left: Grilled steak tacos with tomato salsa and chipotle aioli. top right: The view of the historic Red Onion from Cooper Avenue. bottom: The skillet-roasted pork chop with Boursin mashed potatoes and sweet apple-onion compote.
PRICES Appetizers, $3 to $12.50; soups and salads, $5 to $25; burgers and sandwiches, $11.50 to $17; entrées, $22 to $29. AMBIENCE Casual, family-friendly. SIGNATURE DISHES Skillet roasted pork chop, Boursin cheese mashed potatoes, sweet apple-onion compote; grilled Rocky Mountain red trout, green chili cheddar grits, roasted pepper aioli; Mexican chocolate cake, vanilla bean ice cream, chocolate sauce.
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R U S T IQ U E B I S T R O
216 S. MONARCH ST. • 970-920-2555 • WWW.RUSTIQUEBISTRO.COM
by LAUREN GLENDENNING • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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t’s high class all the way at Rustique, where even happy-hour imbibers are greeted with an amuse bouche such as a salmon tartare with amaretto lemon honey sauce and pickled fruit. In this French country bistro featuring rustic décor and white tablecloths, flavor and technique prevail on a menu of French classics like duck leg confit a l’orange, steak au poivre or porcini-crusted veal sweetbreads. Cooking techniques shine at Rustique, where anything with a sear or a crust delivers a perfectly crunchy texture. You can slice through the skin on the duck with the side of a fork to reveal the tender, silky meat beneath its delicious exterior,
and the veal sweetbreads feature a delicate coating made from porcini mushrooms, cutting the richness of the sweetbreads with an umami wrapper. For a lighter summer dish, try one of the salads with a small plate like salmon tartare served with shaved fennel and caviar or the Prince Edward Island mussels with citrus tequila broth and wild boar soppresatta. One of Rustique’s most popular summer dishes is the trout, a crispy filet of pan-seared ruby trout served with a citrus buerre blanc and shaved Brussels sprouts, fingerling potatoes and whole-grain mustard. Richer options include a decadent cheese soufflé or a truffle-moray
Not to Miss Daily happy hour from 4:30 to 6 p.m. with food and cocktail specials. Patio seating that offers views of both Monarch Street and Hopkins Avenue. The Cooking School of Aspen, located downstairs.
sauce macaroni and cheese with mushrooms (the dish has won Aspen Mac & Cheese Festival honors many times). More traditional hits are the escargots or crispy frogs legs with lemon garlic cream. The staples on the Rustique menu might stay the same, but each dish changes a little with the seasons, says general manager Doug Kidder. Accompaniments on each plate tend to lighten up during summer months. And while white tablecloths decorate the dining room, there’s also a comfortable, no-frills feeling diners find as they cut into fresh-outof-the-oven French bread right on the white table-paper — no bread
plates required. Service is topnotch, but thankfully there’s no stuffiness, only friendly faces. top: Porcini-crusted veal sweetbreads with saffron mushroom veloute, pea tendril and marinated apple salad. bottom left: Ovenroasted half chicken with butternut squash, haricot vert, pumpkin seeds, pickled currants and sherry jus. bottom right: Pan-roasted ruby trout with shaved Brussels sprouts, whole grain mustard, fingerlings and citrus buerre blanc.
PRICES Appetizers, $9 to $26; entrées,$28 to $50; bar menu, $8 to $24. Happy hour: $7.50 cocktails, $6 to $16 food specials, $5 glasses of wine. AMBIENCE Rustic-elegant dining room with a mountain-casual bar and patio. SIGNATURE DISHES Pulled short-rib beef risotto with roasted red peppers and pine nuts (bar menu); macaroni and cheese with mushrooms and truffled mornay sauce; pan-roasted ruby trout with Brussels sprouts and citrus buerre blanc.
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W HI T E H OU SE TAV E R N 302 E. HOPKINS AVE. • 970-925-1007 • WWW.ASPENWHITEHOUSE.COM by LAUREN GLENDENNING • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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n any given day of the week, folks are practically knocking down the doors of the White House Tavern to get a seat inside the cozy restaurant or out on the patio with exquisite views of Aspen Mountain. The seating arrangements are trivial, though, because the food here is such perfection that you’d happily eat it just about anywhere. The menu is strategically small — the White House Tavern wants to do a few things really well rather than try to be all things to all people. Somehow it has managed to please just about everyone, though, even with an entrée menu of just sandwiches and salads. There’s a reason why it’s consistently at the top of TripAdvisor’s list of best restaurants in Aspen. Sandwiches are massive and great for sharing. Favorites include the crispy chicken, with a tangy honey mustard vinaigrette-dressed slaw, Swiss cheese and fresh tomato on a fresh torta roll. The French dip features in-house roasted prime rib, thinly sliced and piled on soft French bread, served with creamy horseradish aioli and fresh au jus. These sandwiches can elicit excitement and “oohs” and “aahs” like no sandwich you’ve ever had. The macho salad is a delicious mix of greens, freshly baked cornbread croutons, dates, goat cheese, corn, avocado and your choice of chicken
Not to Miss Daily rotating sandwich specials. Patio seating with views of Aspen Mountain. Excellent and friendly service.
PRICES Snacks and sides, $5 to $24; entrées, $16 to $23. AMBIENCE Upscale tavern with a lively atmosphere. SIGNATURE DISHES Crispy chicken sandwich with Swiss and spicy slaw; French dip with au jus; Macho salad with roasted chicken, avocado, dates, goat cheese, almonds and fresh corn; deviled eggs.
or steak. For a little extra kick, try the Thai beef noodle salad, which packs a spicy, herbaceous kick, tossed with mangoes, peanuts and pancit noodles. The snacks and sides menu is carefully crafted to offer everything from salty to spicy to creamy options. Creamed corn for the table — freshly shucked and served with
jalapeño — is rich and delicious, while homemade tortilla chips with a cold jalapeño queso or guacamole go perfectly with a draft beer. The deviled eggs with Ding’s pickle relish and farm-fresh eggs are pure pleasure, while a citrus tabbouleh or roasted peanut kale salad with herbs appeals to lighter eaters.
This summer, don’t miss the sandwich specials, rotating daily, like a carnitas with pickled onion, a softshell crab po’boy or the White House’s take on a Cubano. Look for the hickory burger as a special, too, with applewood bacon, homemade hickory barbecue sauce, shredded cheddar and diced onion. General manager Sarah Rettker calls it an elevated version of an old Wild West burger. top left: Roasted pork carnitas sandwich with pickled red onion and spicy slaw on a torta roll. top right: One of the salads to be featured as a special this summer is topped with lobster and house dressing. bottom: Hickory barbecue burger with applewood bacon, shredded cheddar and diced onion.
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T HE E D GE
690 CARRIAGE WAY • 970-923-4004 • WWW.THEEDGESNOWMASS.COM
by LAUREN GLENDENNING • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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hen a chef’s skills are largely attributable to his German grandmothers, you taste the love in every dish. Chef Jason DeBacker has turned The Edge Restaurant and Bar — tucked away in a condominium building in the Upper Village at Snowmass — into a hot spot for Alpine cuisine featuring German, Swiss and Austrian fare. This type of cuisine is a part of mountain culture, yet there aren't a lot of options for it around the Roaring Fork Valley. With a slopeside location, the happy hour scene here is an accessible and refreshing jaunt away from the beaten path of the Snowmass Mall or Base Village. The dining room is cozy — the perfect place to unhook those ski boots and order cheese fondue on a cold afternoon. From 4 to 5:30 p.m., enjoy half-off beer, wine and well cocktails, too. The fondue is served as a bubbling pot of Emmentaler and Gruyère cheeses with a side of crisp apples, crunchy bread and fresh sausage for dipping. It’s everything you’d want in a fondue — rich, gooey cheeses melted with a hint of the German fruit brandy kirschwasser, full of clean flavors and just the right amount of funk from the cheese to keep you dunking your fondue fork back in for more. Alpine cuisine is comforting, but when there’s a story or memory behind each dish, the
Not to Miss It’s off the beaten path for a more intimate dining experience. Cuisine that makes you feel like your dining in the Alps. An excellent cocktail menu featuring six Moscow mules and other specialties.
PRICES Appetizers, $8 to $13; “High Alpine” schnitzel, wurst or fondue, $18 to $28; main courses, $15 to $35. AMBIENCE Mountain chalet, casual yet elegant. SIGNATURE DISHES Schnitzel made with pork or veal, three different preparations, with traditional German spatzle; fondue with Emmentaler and Gruyère cheeses; wurst (choice of seven sausages) with sauerkraut and potatoes; seebarsch, a roasted Corvina sea bass with dill cream.
comfort level rises. DeBacker says every plate on the menu is part of his history and heritage. You can taste it in everything, too — even the side of red cabbage that I’d typically push aside as an inedible garnish at other restaurants. At The Edge, it tastes like apple pie, with the aromas and flavors of cinnamon and sweet apples that could turn even the fussiest eater into a red cabbage lover. And that’s just a side dish. The schnitzel exudes the very
heritage that DeBacker values so much in his cooking. There’s a veal or pork option — each served with a crispy coating that seals in the beautifully juicy and tender meat. Top it with the garlic white wine caper sauce for added flavor, or try it “Vienna style” with fresh lemon or with the “Gypsy sauce” with red wine and mushrooms. It’s served with that decadent cabbage as well as a lovely German spatzle, a soft egg noodle authentically fried to give it a slightly crispy coating.
A peppery, marinated and grilled deer had this venison skeptic in awe of the deep-red color and rich flavor. In a lower-traffic location such as this, where passers-by are much less common, there has to be something special in order to bring people in. Butch’s Lobster Bar did it when it lived here for 20 years, and after a few years of soul-searching, The Edge has found its place. top: Schnitzel, breaded and served with German spatzle, vegetables and a choice of caper sauce, gypsy sauce or Vienna-style. right: Grilled red deer served with lingonberry sauce. bottom: Fondue featuring Emmentaler and Gruyére cheese, white wine and kirschwasser served with crispy bread, apples and sausage.
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V E NG A V E NG A
105 DALY LANE • 970-923-7777 WWW.RICHARDSANDOVAL.COM/VENGAVENGA by LAUREN GLENDENNING • photos by JEREMY WALLACE
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enga Venga is a familyfriendly restaurant with a killer patio and an endless tequila menu — need we say more? Situated slopeside at the end of the Snowmass Mall, Venga Venga’s patio is a place where imbibers and families alike can coexist to the sounds of live music under the Colorado sunshine. The patio overlooks the slopes and features an indoor-outdoor bar, where happy hour deals provide a delicious sampling of the restaurant’s modern Mexican cuisine and tasty margaritas. An inside dining room offers a more elegant dining option popular at dinnertime. The happy hour and cantina menu, from 3 to 6 p.m. daily, offers a great value, and there’s live music seven days a week. Classic margaritas are $6, but my favorite was the hot-pink prickly pearblueberry version for $7 — with Luna Azul Blanco tequila, prickly pear, blueberry-infused tequila and fresh
citrus. It paired perfectly with the al pastor pork tacos in corn tortillas with fresh pineapple — just $3 each or $8 for three during happy hour. Many other appetizers and tapas are half-off during happy hour, too. Modern Mexican cuisine is a theme at many of chef and restaurateur Richard Sandoval’s establishments, but each place does it a little differently. Chef de cuisine Eddy Chimal says there are a lot of creative twists on many classic dishes at Venga Venga, but much of the inspiration is from traditional Mexican food. The chicken zarape features tender grilled chicken breast topped with smoky bacon and three sauces — chipotle adobo, chipotle cream and tomatillo sauce, served with creamy cotija rice and refried black beans. It’s a comforting, hearty dish, great after some mountain biking at Snowmass. The more traditional al pastor tacos come with adobo-marinated
PRICES Happy hour, $3 to $9; appetizers, $11 to $13; soups and salads, $8 to $17; large plates, $15 to $23. AMBIENCE Modern cantina with beautiful views of the Snowmass slopes. SIGNATURE DISHES Chicken zarape with smoky bacon, chipotle and creamy cotija rice; pork carnitas with salsa verde; al pastor tacos with pineapple; chile relleno with poblanos, five different Mexican cheeses and sautéed vegetables.
Not to Miss The expansive patio offers slopeside dining and a lively happy-hour scene. Tequila! There are 130 different tequilas on the menu — just ask your server for recommendations. An atmosphere that’s comfortable for families, couples, groups and everyone between.
pork and pineapple topped with onions and cilantro like you’d find at a street cart in Mexico. Roasted pork carnitas and carne asada served with chimichurri sauce are other big hits. On a warm, sunny day, opt for the stuffed avocado shrimp salad with greens, citrus-adobo
shrimp, corn relish, cilantro pesto and pickled onions — full of vibrant colors and flavors. Chimal stresses that just about everything is made in-house. From the creative sauces to the pickled onions, the ingredients are fresh. Guests can customize their guacamole, prepared tableside, with as much citrus, onion or hot chili as desired. Listen to the live music and belly up with a margarita at one of several patio tables with fire pits while the kids roast marshmallows and build their own s’mores. Venga Venga has managed to achieve an atmosphere that truly welcomes people of all ages. top left: The stuffed avocado shrimp salad with citrus-adobo, corn relish and cilantro pesto. Try it with the vibrant prickly pear-blueberry margarita. top right: Chicken zarape topped with smoky bacon and three sauces — chipotle adobo, chipotle cream and tomatillo. bottom right: Fresh avocado for tableside guacamole.
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