34th annual
FOOD & WINE CLASSIC WEEKEND
WHAT TO DO! | WHAT TO EAT! | WHAT TO DRINK!
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welcome THE 34TH ANNUAL FOOD & WINE CLASSIC IN ASPEN
from the
PUBLISHER
The next best thing to drinking and eating is talking about it. One word: Instagram. And as Julia Child said, “People who love to eat are always the best people.” Maybe this is why Food & Wine Classic weekend feels like something out of a storybook – white-topped tents full of world-class wines and epicurean delights set against the backdrop of worldrenowned Aspen Mountain full of visitors from all over the world with a common passion: eating and drinking followed by talking about eating and drinking. This summer will mark my third Food & Wine weekend. Each year, I learn how to do it better. For instance, the 4-inch wedges are very cute; they are also very cumbersome after four glasses of wine. Sandals eliminate the adventure. And some things remain the same: I’ll always attend any event related to bubbles, which will confirm the single reason champagne is my favorite go-to libation: it goes with anything, anytime. Welcome to our town – a community as rich in character and culture as it is in beauty and luxury. On the off chance that you’re here without a pass to the Food & Wine Classic, take the opportunity to visit our world-class restaurants, enjoy cocktails crafted by local mixologists on a patio overlooking paradise, take a trip to Snowmass for Grand Cochon and Heritage Fire and, most importantly, mark your calendar so you don’t forget to purchase your pass for next year. My advice for your weekend: Hydrate. Pace yourself. Indulge – in both food and wine. Savor the experience. Repeat. Cheers! Samantha Johnston, publisher
from the
EDITOR
You learn a lot at your first Food & Wine Classic. What I learned is don’t go too big right out of the gate. I lost my voice by the Saturday morning seminar last year. It was totally gone — I couldn’t even mutter a whisper. So when I bumped into my chef idol, Eric Ripert, at a late-night party in a downtown art gallery, and walked up to him and spoke, nothing came out. I managed to snap a selfie with him before quickly scurrying off in embarrassment. Despite the countless colleagues and friends who advised me about the big weekend ahead I thought, I grew up in South Florida — I got this. I went to college in Boulder — it’ll be no big deal. I’ve lived in New York, the city that never sleeps — I can handle it. Boy, was I wrong. I have a new plan this year. I’m going to do every bit as much as I did last year, but I’m also going to take it easy. As I developed my itinerary for the weekend, I sandwiched rest times between the seminars, tasting and parties. I’ll approach it as an endurance event, not a sprint. I hope you’ll keep these lessons in mind while attacking your weekend. On Sunday, we’ll all be better for it. Cheers, Lauren Glendenning, editor
on the cover A toast to the mountains from atop Ajax is a must-do tradition at each Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. galdones photography/food & wine left to right: Marcus Samuelsson (courtesy of glenmorangie), Anne Burrell, Laura Werlin, Andrew Zimmern
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
7 NEWS - A CLASSIC DEBUT 10 TRENDING - TOP CHEF 12 SEMINARS - FOOD 16 PROFILES - RAY ISLE 20 PROFILES - MARK OLDMAN 22 SEMINARS - WINE 24 FYI - SEMINAR SCHEDULE 25 FYI - SEMINAR MAP 26 PROFILES - PERFECT PAIRING 28 AROUND TOWN NO PASS REQUIRED 32 QUICK QUIPS - CHEF’S MORSELS 34 FARM TO FIRE COCHON-HERITAGE FIRE 40 TRENDING – BEST NEW CHEFS 42 YOUNG GUNS- THE KIDS ARE ALL RIGHT 46 TRIBUTE - SAM BEALL
contributors PUBLISHER SAMANTHA JOHNSTON EDITOR LAUREN GLENDENNING CONCEPTUALISTS LINDA AND KELLY J. HAYES ART DIRECTION & DESIGN MALISA SAMSEL CONTRIBUTING WRITERS JILL BEATHARD, BARBARA PLATTS, AMANDA RAE, ANDREW TRAVERS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER JEREMY WALLACE ACCOUNT MANAGERS MAX VADNAIS, AMY LAHA, LOUISE WALKER, TIM KURNOS, HANK CARTER MAGAZINE AND SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR ASHTON HEWITT DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DAVID LAUGHREN PHOTOS BY JEREMY WALLACE
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news A CLASSIC DEBUT
Meet the New Boss
NILOU MOTAMED BY ANDREW TRAVERS
NILOU MOTAMED views food as a passport and cultural round-the-world ticket. The Food & Wine magazine editor, who in February succeeded Dana Cowin at the helm of both the publication and the Food & Wine Classic after Cowin’s 21-year run, has made a career at the nexus of food, drink, travel and the luxury lifestyle. Which, of course, is Aspen’s and Food & Wine’s terrain. Born in Iran and raised there, as well as Paris and New York, Motamed has spent her professional writing life circling the globe hunting for the perfect meal. “Growing up in Iran in a culture that’s all about food and family gatherings around food — I think there’s a similarity looking at Italian culture or Israeli culture or Iranian culture — the focus of our gatherings is celebrating and feeding each other,” she says. “Often overfeeding. That has made me realize how important food — and whole food — is and how valuable it is to have a connection to the food that you serve your family.” Motamed, 44, looks at the Food & Wine gig as an ideal way to put that passion to work along with the skills she’s honed as a travel writer and editor (at Travel & Leisure), a digital editor (as editor-in-chief at Epicurious) and a hospitality-industry consultant (with Conrad Hotels & Resorts). “I know what consumers are looking for, and I know how to deliver it to them, and that’s what I’ve focused on,” she says. Though this year marks her first as the Food & Wine Classic’s de facto master of ceremonies, Motamed is no stranger to the event. During her stint at Travel & Leisure, she attended several Classics and has spent enough
Nilou Motamed makes her first Classic appearance as the new editor of Food & Wine Magazine
"Aspen is the perfect amalgam for someone like me. That intersection of food and travel and luxury."
time in Aspen to know the joy of patio cocktails at the Ajax Tavern, the necessity of grabbing a bag of kettle corn at the Aspen Saturday Market and the rejuvenating power of breakfasts in the courtyard at Main Street Bakery. “Sitting outside and getting some great eggs, maybe after staying out too late, is not too shabby,” she says. Motamed isn’t looking to shake up the time-tested formula of the Classic, she says, though she’s excited by newer events like SommCon (now in its second year). “I love that it’s limited by virtue of where it is,” she says of the Classic. “It can’t grow. And that feels intimate to me and really unique and special.” And she loves the location. “Aspen is the perfect amalgam for someone like me," she says. "That intersection of food and travel and luxury — I can’t imagine a place that can check all the boxes more than Aspen.” She’ll bring a global perspective to the magazine, with initiatives such as special issues with deep dives into a single country’s cuisine. And she’s pleased with how the magazine, under Cowin, stayed ahead of — and shaped — the trends in the booming foodie culture. The magazine, and its events and digital extensions thereof, are the foundation of what Motamed dubs “a multi-platform 360-degree partner to our consumers.” Extending the magazine’s reach into the digital space is a priority for Motamed. She notes that food content online has grown six times faster than any other content category and that 29 million Americans have made foodor drink-related social-media posts. “That’s 29 million people that are passionate, as we are, about food and wine culture,” she says. continued on page 8
PHOTO BY SVEN ESELGROTH
W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
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news A CLASSIC DEBUT
Events, in particular, are integral to her online strategy. The ripples of all those Instagram posts by chefs and sommeliers and patrons at grand tastings zip around the world from Wagner Park. “If any event gives you ultimate digital bragging rights, it has to be the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, because you’re one of just 5,000 people who gets to attend the event and you’re in this beautiful setting in a rarefied environment and you’re basically getting to hang out with the biggest talent in the food-
and-wine world,” she says. The new editor’s most anticipated bits at the Classic include the palate-worthy lineup of wines set to be uncorked at Mark Oldman’s “Wines for IPO Trillionaires” seminar, the Blackberry Farm dinner at the Sundeck and picking Ray Isle’s brain at tastings. One thing she’s not so excited about? Running at altitude. Motamed was on the fence about joining the field for the annual Food & Wine 5K Charity Race. “I’m not committing to running,” she laughs, “because I think I may end up in some kind of oxygen tank.”
‹ Nilou Motamed joins Food & Wine Magazine SVP/ Publisher Christina Grdovic Baltz at the announcement of the 2016 Best New Chefs.
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
INSET: PHOTO BY JAMIE MCCARTHY/GETTY IMAGES FOR FOOD & WINE
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trending TOP CHEF
A “Top Chef” Strikes a Pose
JEREMY FORD
A CHEF IN THE SPOTLIGHT “Top Chef ” Season 13 winner heads to Aspen for his first-ever Classic BY LAUREN GLENDENNING
THERE’S ONLY ONE MOMENT as clear in chef Jeremy Ford’s mind as the day his daughter was born: the day he won Bravo TV’s “Top Chef.” The executive chef at the Matador Room, a Jean-Georges restaurant in Miami Beach, lined up alongside fellow finalist Amar Santana and waited to hear Bravo TV host Padma Lakshmi announce the winner of Season
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
13. Ford says there was probably about five minutes of actual, stomach-churning waiting, “but I swear it felt like an hour.” It took a few seconds for the victory to sink in, Ford remembers, but once it did, he knew it was one of the proudest moments of his life. The “Top Chef” awards package is generous — this year the prize money was $125,000 —
plus chefs get to showcase their talent at the Food & Wine Classic, an event Ford says he’s always wanted to be a part of. Ford was already thinking back in April about the products he’ll be using at the Classic, when he envisioned a lot of local produce from Colorado and other local ingredients to be the stars of his dishes. He also plans to carry on his fish legacy, COURTESY OF RA-HAUS
‹ Jeremy Ford and Kwame Onwuachi cook during an outdoor challenge on Bravo TV’s “Top Chef” season 13. ‹‹ Jeremy Ford reacts as “Top Chef” host Padma Lakshmi announces the winner of season 13. Jeremy Ford is �“Top Chef.”
he says, noting that fish got him far during many demanding “Top Chef” challenges. Confidence isn’t something Ford seems to struggle with, but he’s had plenty of recent ego-boosters as chef to help him along. Take the opening episode of “Top Chef” Season 13, when Ford won the first challenge, sending a message to the other 16 contestants that he meant business. “Confidence is something that, as a chef, you’re always second-guessing yourself,” Ford says. “Every dish you create, you think about it 19,000 ways, always wondering if it’s the right thing or as good as it should be done. I gained confidence in the beginning because of that win.” The “Top Chef” honor has catapulted Ford into the world of celebrity chefs, an identity that hasn’t hit home yet. “At heart, I’m just a cook. I started out as a young dude who just wanted to learn, just fascinated by cuisine and flavors,” he says. The Florida native developed a bit of a surfer-dude reputation on the Season 13 show. He said “dude” and “bro” a lot and took a little heat from the judges when he came up with a “Taco Dudes” concept for one of the challenges. It would be a gastropub-type place, with “hot chicks serving the food,” Ford told the judges. Lakshmi wasn’t amused, and the other judges weren’t impressed. The challenge didn’t serve as another confidence-booster for Ford. "You’re a one-man band (on ‘Top Chef ’),” Ford says. “There’s no one to save you if you fall or crash.” PHOTOS COURTESY OF BRAVO MEDIA
That reality helped Ford with time management, a skill he’ll likely need this weekend for the Classic. Another skill he seems to be constantly honing is to believe in himself and his flavors. He uses what he says are “funky techniques” — think spherification (molding foods in spherical shapes with thin membranes and liquid centers) and molecular gastronomy (using the chemical and physical traits of ingredients to enhance their presentations) — but flavor is always the end goal. You won’t see Ford using powders and gums in ways where they don’t also pack powerful flavor. While Ford has $125,000 in “Top Chef ” winnings, which many past winners have used to open their own restaurants, Ford is content at the Matador Room under the mentorship of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, where he says he’ll continue to build upon his skills and experience as a chef. He’s enjoying the culinary spotlight on the heels of his “Top Chef ” win, but he’s not trying to get ahead of himself, either. “You have to go with your gut, man,” he says.
“You’re a oneman band on ‘Top Chef.’ There’s no one to save you if you fall or crash.” - Jeremy Ford W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
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seminars FOOD
EAT IT UP! The chefs show how it’s done at the sold-out seminars
Highlight
BY LINDA HAYES YOU’VE WATCHED THEM on TV, eaten at their restaurants and collected their cookbooks. Now’s your chance to catch them in person as they teach, inspire, entertain and share recipes in seminars at the Food & Wine Classic (in Aspen, no less). Here’s the who, what and where of our insider picks.
On Our Radar
MASTERING PASTA WITH ANNE BURRELL AND DANA COWIN Saturday, 3:45 to 4:40 p.m. On her Twitter profile (194,475 followers and counting), Anne Burrell’s tag reads “chef, food network personality, bon vivant, perpetual optimist and spreader of sparkles and smiles!” When she takes the stage for her first-ever Food & Wine Classic in Aspen seminar, “Mastering Pasta,” on Saturday at The St. Regis, her
FRIDAY
10 to 10:45 a.m., Jacques and Claudine Pépin HEART & SOUL IN THE KITCHEN Isn’t that really what it’s all about? Inspired by legendary French chef Jacque Pépin’s popular "Heart & Soul" TV series and cookbook, which highlight his 60 years in the kitchen, this sure-to-be-touching seminar with his daughter, Claudine, will feature dishes they cook for friends and family at home.
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
2 to 2:45 p.m., Chris Cosentino THE NEW STYLE SURF AND TURF Lamb and clams? Pork belly and lobster? Expect nothing less than creative riffs on the classic combos from this "Top Chef Master," who turns out dishes like pigskin carbonara and beef heart tartare at his San Francisco restaurant, Cockscomb.
signature spiky hair, hearty laugh and pointed commentary will further inform her rapid rise to celebrity on shows like "Secrets of a Restaurant Chef" and "Worst Cooks in America." All of that flamboyance will be tempered by the casual charm and easy smile of Dana Cowin, with whom Burrell is partnering for what promises to be a most entertaining
3:45 to 4:30 p.m., Tim Love BACKYARD BBQ That mouthwatering, nosetickling smoke wafting from the Cooking Tent? It’s a sure sign that Tim Love has fired up the grill for another of his signature seminars. Take what you learn to your backyard, on your next camping trip or to a tailgate party down the road.
SATURDAY
10 to 10:45 a.m., Hugh Acheson THE ULTIMATE GRAIN BOWL Hugh Acheson, Top Chef judge, Atlanta chef-restaurateur and James Beard Awardwinning author of “A New Turn in the South,” pairs two
timely trends — whole grains and one-dish meals, touted simply as “bowls” — in this tasty, educational seminar.
2 to 2:45 p.m., Andrew Zimmern CULINARY LITERACY: CHINA He who will eat anything (at least once), as he demonstrates regularly on his Travel Channel series, "Bizarre Foods," will share recipes for "Cook and Sell" Siu Mai Dumplings and
PHOTOS LEFT TO RIGHT: ASPEN TIMES FILE PHOTO; PHOTO BY JOSH TELLES; ASPEN TIMES FILE PHOTO DANA COWIN PHOTO BY JOHN KERNICK
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On the mini menu: Tagliatelle with prosciutto and grilled asparagus with poached egg and Parmesan.
— and educational — seminar. Coming off a 21-year tenure as editor of Food & Wine magazine, and now creative director of Chefs Club USA, Cowin knows her way around the kitchen stage as a host. But as a cook? Well, not so much.
& Gala and Golf Classic August 1 & 2, 2016
Cowin’s admitted lack of skill in the kitchen is the subject of her book, "Mastering My Mistakes in the Kitchen," in which she enlisted her chef buddies to show her where she’s gone wrong (and teach her how to do things right). About her seminar with Burrell, Cowin says, “I am learning to cook a simple Italian dinner with Anne, … making pasta from scratch. I’ve tried many times before and never succeeded. But she swears she can teach me, and I can’t wait to learn.”
Sichuan rabbit with chiles and fermented black beans.
popular Philadelphia-based restaurant, Amada, where traditional Andalusian tapas mix with signature dishes like whole roasted suckling pig.
SUNDAY
3:45 to 4:30 p.m., Jose Garces THE BEST OF SPANISH CUISINE Another newcomer to the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen lineup, Garces is coming off the opening of the Battery Park (New York City) outpost of his
10:30 to 11:15 a.m. CLASSIC COOK-OFF It’s a wild time as chefs Anne Burrell and Tim Love pair with celebrity sous chefs in a battle to reign supreme in this annual cook-off, MC’d by "Classic Cook-Off" veteran host Sissy Biggers. Winners are named via an audience vote. Be there!
TOP: PHOTO BY JAMIE MCCARTHY/GETTY IMAGES FOR FOOD & WINE BOTTOM: PHOTO BY DANIEL KRIEGER
Monday, August 1st, 2016 St. Regis Resort Aspen: Cocktail reception, silent auction, dinner, live auction and intimate concert.
Tuesday, August 2nd, 2016 Snowmass Club Golf Course Tee off with Vince & Amy at the private James Engh designed golf course.
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I CANNOT TELL A LIE ...SECURITY LINES WILL BE LONG
More than 2000 travelers a day can pass through the Aspen/Pitkin County Airport during this busy summer season. To ensure you do not miss your flight, allow at least 90 minutes for security alone, especially if you depart before 9:30 a.m.
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profiles RAY ISLE
FOOD & WINE’S
WINE GUY Ray Isle, the Executive Wine Editor at Food & Wine Magazine, shares his take on the Classic, the ever-changing world of wine and what he is drinking this summer BY KELLY J. HAYES Ray Isle is as comfortable in a vineyard in Bordeaux as he is in his New York office. In fact, more so.
AS A FORMER CREATIVE writing instructor at Stanford University, Ray Isle taught budding writers the ins and outs of story structure. Today in his role as the major domo of wine for one of the most important culinary publications in America, he is still teaching structure. Now, however, his focus is on wine and he is in charge of producing both the wine content for Food & Wine magazine and the wine program at the Classic. We got a few insights into how he works with both ON RAY’S FAVES AT THE CLASSIC "This will be my 12th year at the Classic, which is kind of mind-blowing. My favorite things about coming to Aspen and the Classic are many. First, Aspen itself, since I used to come
here in the summers to hike and camp as a kid, and I have a lot of great memories of the place from back then (the late '70s — it's changed just a bit). I also love doing seminars; telling people about wine, something I love, is a blast. And late-night hanging out at the bar at element 47 (which usually spills over into the Nell lobby) is great, because it's jammed with wine people every night." ON HOW THE CLASSIC STAYS RELEVANT IN THE BURGEONING WORLD OF FESTIVALS "Well, Aspen is the mother ship of all our events and one of the first, if not the first, of its kind. I think it stays relevant by always bringing in amazing new chef talent as well as famous
names and in the wine seminars by doing sort of the same thing — we'll talk about Napa cabernet, for instance, and then have a seminar on kooky bottles from the extremes of what people are doing these days. How it's different, for me, is something that's probably not visible to the public, but we've been doing this for more than 30 years now (this is the 34th Classic) and the event runs like clockwork. I've been to more than a few events (of course, never Food & Wine ones, ahem) where that is definitely not the case." ON PICKING THE WINE PROS "We pick speakers partly based on expertise and partly personality. There's a baseline level in that everyone has to be an expert overall, continued on page 18
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
PHOTO COURTESY OF RAY ISLE
profiles RAY ISLE
but, for instance, Paul Grieco is justifiably known in the business for his incredible knowledge about riesling in all its forms. But all the expertise in the world won't save you if you're in front of an audience and you aren't a great speaker, so that plays a role, too. It's a high bar." ON HIS FAVORITE SPEAKERS "I can't play favorites, because I have a role in picking all the wine speakers. But yeah, Mark (Oldman) definitely hit on something with his wines for billionaires, trillionaires, etc. — no surprise that's a popular seminar. I also have a weakness for Laura Werlin's cheese seminars, one of which she's doing this year together with Bobby Stuckey of Frasca. I can say that because, in addition to wine, I really love cheese. And Laura's great." ON HIS OWN MONDAVI “FIVE DECADES” SEMINAR "I don't think there's been a more significant figure in California wine than Robert Mondavi. In addition to being ruthless about quality — something that will be clear to anyone attending that seminar and tasting through the older vintages we're pouring — he really worked as a non-brand-specific ambassador and proselytizer for California wine. Particularly early on, at a time when people were skeptical
Ray Isle with a trio of bald Master Sommeliers — Sabato Sagaria, Dustin Wilson and the Little Nell’s Carlton McCoy.
“I love doing seminars; telling people about wine, something I love, is a blast." about whether California could compete on the world stage. He was right, clearly."
wine as big in the U.S. as food. Which is going to take some doing, but what the heck?"
ON SOMMCON TAKING CENTER STAGE "SommCon is a kind of event-within-anevent that we started last year. Essentially, we realized that all these top sommeliers were attending Aspen anyway, so we thought, 'Well, what if we invited even more top sommeliers and made a kind of summit out of this?' So we invite 60 top restaurant wine people from around the country and do some intense wine programming for them, and also make them part of the Food & Wine community. Sommeliers have a huge voice in educating the public about great wine, and we wanted to recognize that, essentially."
ON HOW THE WINE WORLD IS EVOLVING "What I see, from a journalist's point of view, is two things. One, the average wine buyer is far more knowledgeable about wine than he or she was 15 years ago. Partly that's the internet; there's just a vast amount of info out there. But also pure interest in wine has risen. The second thing is that there's just been a huge proliferation of wines — new brands, new importers, new regions. It's almost impossible to keep up with, though I try."
ON WHAT A WINE EDITOR DOES "Ha — a lot! Currently I'm writing two columns a month as well as several feature articles a year, blogging about wine several times a week, helping on the wine side on most of our events and a ton of other stuff. My secret agenda (well, not so secret to anyone at the magazine) is that I want the 'wine' part of Food & Wine to be as big as the 'food' part. Which means making
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
ON THE TRENDING TOPICS IN WINE I think there's some fascinating stuff going on in some of the very classic regions like Bordeaux and Chianti. You're starting to see a lot of next-generation family members and winemakers taking over and bringing new life or ambitions, in a sense." ON WHAT RAY IS DRINKING THIS SUMMER "A lot of great dry rosé. Like everyone else on the planet, apparently!"
PHOTOS COURTESY OF RAY ISLE
June 23 - July 2, 2016
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profiles MARK OLDMAN
IF I HAD A TRILLION DOLLARS,
I’D DRINK …
Mark Oldman presents a one-of-a-kind wine seminar BY LAUREN GLENDENNING
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
IT’S SATURDAY MORNING at the 2015 Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. Six very expensive glasses of wine — generously poured — are set before each attendee at the “Wines for IPO Billionaires” seminar. Some folks are hung over (including this journalist), but we’d be damned if we did not enjoy these highquality sips, even if the smell of wine after last night’s tequila could send some of us over the edge. Charismatic wine author and seminar host Mark Oldman struts onto the stage sporting a purple smoking jacket, puffing on a tobacco pipe. He’s gloriously smug, in full character for the occasion. Oldman regales his audience with stories of his private jet trip into Aspen from New York City. He flew in with a number of celebrity chefs, and they drank a ridiculously expensive vintage of Dom Perignon — several bottles of it, in fact. It was the perfect beginning to a seminar meant to poke a little fun at the pretense of wine drinkers. But that was last year. And in true Oldman form, he’s elevating his game for this year’s Food & Wine Classic. (Billionaires are so last year.) At 10 a.m. on both Friday and Saturday, Oldman will present what he claims will be the most expensive consumer wine tasting ever in his “Wines for IPO Trillionaires” seminar. In the wine world, “expensive” typically equates to “rare.” For example, the Jordan Winery in Alexander Valley, California, is bottling a special 18-liter of cabernet — the equivalent of 24 bottles — just for “Wines for IPO Trillionaires.” “I’ve never had wine from a vessel that big,” Oldman says. “It’s not like they had one of these lying around — they had to special order it. A special mold has to be made for the bottle.” This is Oldman’s 11th year presenting at the Food & Wine Classic, and pouring outrageous wines is his way of extending his gratitude to the folks who attend the seminars year after year. And, of course, the title of the seminar itself obligates him to go over the top. There are some wine seminars, especially these in Aspen, that have become so established in the industry that wineries jockey to provide their products for them. To get just the right mix, Oldman shares that he and his wine-tasting group opened and considered more than 350 submissions to figure out the very best, and rarest, wines for his “IPO Trillionaires” seminar. “It sounds really decadent,” he admits. “These are going to be some of the most expensive wines out there, but it’s not just about the expense; it’s about the experience. Part of this seminar is to show that if you are going to splurge on wine, which ones you should splurge on.” As self-assured as he may appear, and perhaps deservedly so given his pedigree as an author and connoisseur, Oldman somehow manages to take the snobbery out of wine and puts drinkers at ease. While he says there’s a tendency to put wine up on a pedestal in America, he wants people to feel more comfortable about drinking great wine — more like Europeans, who consider it as important to a meal as, say, salt and pepper. Drinking like a billionaire — or trillionaire — doesn’t necessarily mean drinking expensively, Oldman says. It’s also about knowing when to be assertive. “Wine’s so complicated, or at least it seems so complicated, that even really smart, confident people get sheepish around it,” he says.
PHOTO BY JIYANG CHEN // OPPOSITE: GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY/FOOD & WINE
To a casual drinker, a younger and fresher $60 bottle of wine might work better with their palate and the experience than a $400 bottle that hasn’t been aged to reach its full potential. Many expensive wines are built for longevity and can taste tannic and bitter when young. “Sometimes the more expensive choice is less delicious to the casual drinker,” Oldman says. He also notes that restaurants and hotels that lack integrity occasionally try to take advantage of customers. At a recent dinner in a fine-dining restaurant in New York, Oldman’s friend ordered a bottle of wine that was on the list for $120. The server said that the bottle was sold out. When the friend deferred to Oldman for a selection, the server tried to sneakily upsell the table to a $300 bottle. “They’re like ninja assassins — you have to be on the defense,” Oldman says. Obviously, in this case the assassins picked the wrong mark. In addition to the “Trillionares” extravaganza, Oldman will host another seminar at the Classic called “Breaking the Rules of Wine.” That’s where he’ll pour wines that drink “above” what their price levels would indicate. Think white wines from Greece that are great bargains or reds from Washington that may be undervalued. For example, he recently recommended a Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills ($13), which he believes drinks like a wine that is three times more expensive. His wine-purchasing philosophy is simple: “I think the happiest consumer is the one who knows how to economize and doesn’t feel embarrassed about economizing with wine but also allows herself or himself a special-occasion wine.” Puff-puff.
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WINES FOR IPO TRILLIONAIRES Here’s what Mark Oldman is pouring for the Friday and Saturday seminars (Oldman estimates
the value of these wines at around $10,000):
1) Henriot Champagne “Cuve 38” La Réserve Perpétuelle NV (in 1.5-liter magnum) 2) Chateau La Fleur-Petrus 2012 3) Jordan Winery Cabernet Sauvginon Alexander Valley 2012 (in 18-liter Melchior) 4) Nicolas Feuillatte "Palmes d'Or" Brut Champagne NV (in 3-liter Jeroboam) 5) Guigal Côte Rôtie Château D’Ampuis 2011 6) Schrader Cabernet Sauvignon “Old Sparky” Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard 2012 (in 1.5-liter magnum) 7) Kopke Colheita Port 1966
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seminars WINE
LET IT FLOW BY KELLY J. HAYES
3:45 to 4:30 p.m. | Duggan McDonnell "World's Best Cocktails Demystified" So the end of Day One is a great time for a cocktail, and Classic newbie Duggan McDonnell is just the guy to get you one. The San Franciscocentric barman published “Drinking the Devil's Acre: A Love Letter From San Francisco and Her Cocktails” this past fall, and his pisco punch is legendary. Cheers. SATURDAY
THERE IS NOTHING in the world quite like wine tourism. Grapes grow in the most beautiful places on Earth. The sun shines, the vines cling with precision to rolling hillsides, and there is generally an ocean or a body of water nearby. No wonder people who love life make their way to a life in wine. The Food & Wine Classic in Aspen brings the best wines from the world’s finest vineyards to our little town each summer. Over a threeday span, you can take a journey in a glass throughout the wide world of wine. From German riesling to New Zealand sauvignon blanc, the epic Pinot Noir of Burgundy to the emerging wines of Washington, no region is left unrepresented.
While perusing wines in the Grand Tasting Pavilion will allow you to experience some great grapes and tastes, the real attractions for wine lovers over the weekend are the seminars and tastings hosted by some of the most notable wine experts in the country. Here, the “pros from Dover” will not just teach you about wine but will move you to think differently, smell differently and taste differently than you ever have before. Ray Isle, executive wine director of Food & Wine magazine, has assembled an eclectic collection of wine experts, authors, television hosts and Master Sommeliers to take Classic attendees through the global wine landscape.
THERE ARE TOO MANY SEMINARS TO ATTEND THEM ALL, BUT HERE ARE A FEW SUGGESTIONS FOR THE WEEKEND. FRIDAY 10 to 10:45 a.m. | Ray Isle "The Great Wines of Robert Mondavi: Five Decades of a Napa Icon" Let’s kick it off with our host, Ray Isle. How he is going to fit 50 years of America’s most historically important wine makers into 45 minutes will be a challenge. But be assured, it will be a tasty 45 minutes. Classic favorite and Master Sommelier � Andrea Robinson returns to Aspen to pour wines
2 to 2:45 p.m. | John Ragan, Sabato Sagaria, Jean-Paul Bourgeois Swine & Wine: Best Wines for BBQ The boys from Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group go hog wild. Sagaria, former food and beverage director of the Little Nell; Ragan, a Master Sommelier; and Bourgeois, a chef who grew up in Thibodaux, Louisiana, before moving to Manhattan to stoke the fires at Blue Smoke, will cook and pour in a seminar that shows that where there is smoke there is wine. No tipping allowed.
10 to 10:45 a.m. | Mark Oldman "Wines for IPO Trillionaires" Mark Oldman has created a Classic brand with his "Wines for IPO Billionaires," and now "Trillionaires," seminars. But as fun as the wines are to drink (last year, the Scarecrow Cab was the big pour), it is hanging with the oh-so entertaining Oldman that creates the real buzz. 2 to 2:45 p.m. | Andrea Robinson "The Best of Spain: Contemporary vs. Classic" You don’t need to speak Castilian to love the wines of Spain. Classic stalwart and Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson is the one person to take you down the camino and introduce you to both the tried and true and the up-andcoming in what may once again be the most interesting wine country on Earth. 3:45 to 4:30 p.m. | Leslie Sbrocco "Pop! Sparkling Wine & Popcorn" Snap! It’s Leslie. Crackle! The crisp sound of bubbles. Pop! The corn explodes. There may not be a better person at the Classic to go to the movies with than the bold and blonde Leslie Sbrocco. This is the Oscars of wine seminars. SUNDAY 10:30 to 11:15 a.m. | Richard Betts "Grenache: The Next Big Thing" Breakfast with Betts. The Master Sommelier, author of "Scratch & Sniff" tomes and world winemaker, has always had a thing for Rhôneraised Grenache, even if it has migrated to Oz or other environs. The grape that may provide the most sensual sensation in all of wine will replace your Sunday-morning cup of java.
from Sonoma and Spain.
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
PHOTO COURTESY ANDREA IMMER ROBINSON
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fyi SEMINAR SCHEDULE
FRIDAY, JUNE 17 10:00 AM–10:45 AM Heart & Soul in the Kitchen Jacques & Claudine Pépin St. Regis 1 One Fish, Two Fish, Swedish Fish Marcus Samuelsson St. Regis 2 Sugar Rush Johnny Iuzzini Cooking Tent Wines for IPO Trillionaires Mark Oldman Old Aspen Art Museum 1 The Great Wines of Robert Mondavi: Five Decades of a Napa Icon Ray Isle Old Aspen Art Museum 2 Unexpected Tastes from Unexpected States Paul Grieco Limelight Gamay the Great Anthony Giglio Paepcke 1 Yes Way, Rosé Jordan Salcito Paepcke 2
The New Blue Chip: Wines to Start Collecting Now Robert Bohr, Grant Reynolds & Arvid Rosengren The Gant Sparkling Wines of the World Patrick Cappiello The Little Nell 1 American Cheeses: East vs. West Laura Werlin The Little Nell 2 Lexus Presents: Summers at the Cape Justin Urso, Anthony Cole & Carlton McCoy St. Regis Courtyard 10:45AM-11:30AM Trade Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 11:30AM-1:15PM Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 2:00PM-2:45PM California Cuisine Tyler Florence St. Regis 1 Top Chef: Smoothie Operators Gail Simmons & Hugh Acheson St. Regis 2
The New Style Surf and Turf Chris Cosentino Cooking Tent The Best of Spain: Contemporary vs. Classic Andrea Robinson Old Aspen Art Museum 1 Swine & Wine: Best Wines for BBQ John Ragan, Sabato Sagaria & Jean-Paul Bourgeois Old Aspen Art Museum 2 Northern Rhône's New Wave Patrick Cappiello Limelight Pinot Smackdown Anthony Giglio Paepcke 1 Spain's Most Extraordinary Wine Region: Catalonia Ray Isle Paepcke 2 Bright, Bitter and Boozy Duggan McDonnell The Gant Super Salumi Sips Josh Wesson The Little Nell 1
Tequila Patrón Presents: Aging Barrel Select Tequilas and Making Your Own Classic Tequila Cocktails Chris Spake & David Alan St. Regis Courtyard
Pop! Sparkling Wine & Popcorn Leslie Sbrocco Paepcke 2 World's Best Cocktails Demystified Duggan McDonnell The Gant
California Cuisine Tyler Florence St. Regis 1
Sonoma's Trailblazers & Trendsetters Andrea Robinson The Little Nell 1
American Classics 2.0 Graham Elliot St. Regis 2
Secret Italian Steals Jordan Salcito The Little Nell 2
Backyard BBQ Tim Love Cooking Tent
Glenmorangie Presents: Whisky Challenge Marcus Samuelsson St. Regis Courtyard
3:45PM-4:30PM
Breaking the Rules of Wine Mark Oldman Old Aspen Art Museum 1 White Burgundy and Beyond Shayn Bjornholm Old Aspen Art Museum 2
4:30PM-6:15PM Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion
Riesling: Germany's Greatest Grape Paul Grieco Limelight
Champagne: The Beauty of Blanc de Blancs Shayn Bjornholm The Little Nell 2
Italian Cheeses & Wines Laura Werlin & Bobby Stuckey Paepcke 1
The Best of Spain: Contemporary vs Classic Andrea Robinson Old Aspen Art Museum 1
Stella Artois Presents: Host One to Remember Jamie Bissonnette & Ken Oringer St. Regis Courtyard
Swine & Wine: Best Wines for BBQ John Ragan, Sabato Sagaria & Jean-Paul Bourgeois Old Aspen Art Museum 2
3:45PM-4:30PM
Pop! Sparkling Wine & Popcorn Leslie Sbrocco Paepcke 2
Mastering Pasta Anne Burrell, Dana Cowin St. Regis 1
World's Best Cocktails Demystified Duggan McDonnell The Gant
Surprise: What's in Richard's Kitchen Richard Blais St. Regis 2
Sonoma's Trailblazers & Trendsetters Andrea Robinson The Little Nell 1
SATURDAY, JUNE 18 10:00AM-10:45AM Heart & Soul in the Kitchen Jacques & Claudine Pépin St. Regis 1 Mad Genius Tips Justin Chapple St. Regis 2 The Ultimate Grain Bowl Hugh Acheson Cooking Tent Wines for IPO Trillionaires Mark Oldman Old Aspen Art Museum 1 Grenache: The Next Big Thing Richard Betts Old Aspen Art Museum 2 Unexpected Tastes from Unexpected States Paul Grieco Limelight Gamay the Great Anthony Giglio Paepcke 1 Yes Way, Rosé Jordan Salcito Paepcke 2
Sparkling Wines of the World Patrick Cappiello The Gant American Cheeses: East vs. West Laura Werlin The Little Nell 1 Lexus Presents: New England Chef-ervescence Justin Urso, Anthony Cole & Carlton McCoy The Little Nell 2 10:45AM-11:30AM Trade Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 11:30AM-1:15PM Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 2:00PM-2:45PM Soul of Italian Cooking Scott Conant St. Regis 1 Culinary Literacy: China Andrew Zimmern St. Regis 2 The Milk Bar Layer Cake: Break It Down and Build It Up! Christina Tosi Cooking Tent
Northern Rhône's New Wave Patrick Cappiello Limelight Pinot Smackdown Anthony Giglio Paepcke 1 America's Obsession with Food Chris Cosentino, Natalie Morales, Jacques Pepin Moderator: Nilou Motamed Paepcke 2 Bright, Bitter and Boozy Duggan McDonnell The Gant Super Salumi Sips Josh Wesson The Little Nell 1 Champagne: The Beauty of Blanc de Blancs Shayn Bjornholm The Little Nell 2
Battle of the Spanish Classics Jose Garces Cooking Tent Breaking the Rules of Wine Mark Oldman Old Aspen Art Museum 1 White Burgundy and Beyond Shayn Bjornholm Old Aspen Art Museum 2 Riesling: Germany's Greatest Grape Paul Grieco Limelight
SUNDAY, JUNE 19 10:30AM-11:30AM Classic Cook Off Sissy Biggers St. Regis 1 10:30AM-11:15AM In the Kitchen with Top Chef Top Chef Season 13 Winner: Jeremy Ford Cooking Tent
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
Breaking the Rules of Wine Mark Oldman Old Aspen Art Museum 1 Grenache: The Next Big Thing Richard Betts Old Aspen Art Museum 2
Nebbiolo: The Royal Red of Italy Bobby Stuckey Paepcke 1 Chile Untamed Leslie Sbrocco Paepcke 2 Sparkling Wines of the World Patrick Cappiello The Little Nell 1
12:00PM-12:45PM Trade Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 12:45PM-2:30PM Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion
Italian Cheeses & Wines Laura Werlin & Bobby Stuckey Paepcke 1
Secret Italian Steals Jordan Salcito The Little Nell 2 Hennessy Presents TBA St. Regis Courtyard 4:30PM-6:15PM Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion
fyi AREA MAP
Wagner Park
Wheeler Opera House
Paepcke Park
Hotel Jerome
1
GRAND TASTING PAVILION Wagner Park
2
4
THE LITTLE NELL 675 East Durant Ave.
8
PAEPCKE PARK
5
Main St. & Aspen St.
355 South Monarch
OLD ASPEN ART MUSEUM
LIMELIGHT LODGE
6
9
THE ST. REGIS RESORT ASPEN
THE SUNDECK On
590 North Mill St.
3
7
THE GANT 610 South West End St.
315 East Dean St.
THE COOKING TENT Silver Circle Ice Rink
Aspen Mountain
REGISTRATION TENT
425 Rio Grande Place Celebrity Chef 5K Run
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W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
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profiles PERFECT PAIRING
TOGETHER AGAIN FOR THE FIRST TIME Bobby Stuckey and Laura Werlin BY KELLY J. HAYES
OYSTERS AND CHAMPAGNE? Beyonce and Jay Z? Curry and Klay? Epic pairings are a dime a dozen. But when I think of Food & Wine Classic in Aspen presenters who would be perfect together, the images of Bobby Stuckey and Laura Werlin come immediately to mind. To me they are the Bogie and Bacall of the dais. And yet, this year marks the first time that the star pairing has been together on the same stage. Oh, I know, everyone knows Laura Werlin, the curly-haired cheese goddess who makes even those who love Laughing Cow feel like experts in the worlds of goat-, cow-, and sheep-milk cheeses. And then there is Bobby, the marathon runner who dresses like Clooney, helms the James Beard Award-winning wine program at Boulder’s Frasca Food & Wine and always sells out his seminars celebrating the world’s top drops. But never before have the two paired up to mix, match and mingle the sublime wines and the tangy tastes of Italy’s most alluring cheeses. On Friday afternoon at 3:45 p.m. in the tent at Paepcke Park, they will gather to present "Italian Cheeses & Wines." Oh my. Expect a crowd.
"We’ll be pairing Italian cow-, sheep-, goat-, and buffalo-milk cheeses from north to south, west to east, but I think it’s the buffalo-milk blue that will have people talking,” Not only do the crowds love them, but they seem to be a little sweet on each other, as well. “Bobby is hands-down one of the best, most engaging, most experienced, most amazing folks in the food-and-wine world,” Werlin says with perhaps a hint of hyperbole. “My earliest memories of coming to Aspen were shaped by
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
Bobby’s standout service as the wine director at The Little Nell. Not only did he always choose the perfect wines — he did so with a jaunt in his step and a perennial smile.” Ahh. For his part, Bobby echoes Laura, "I've known Laura for over 20 years from when I worked at the Little Nell. I've always been a fan of what she's done in the cheese world and I can't wait to be in a seminar with her." So what will they be presenting? “We’ll be pairing Italian cow-, sheep-, goat-, and buffalomilk cheeses from north to south, west to east, but I think it’s the buffalo-milk blue that will have people talking,” Werlin laughs. “Or maybe just laughing. Its name? Surfin’ Blu. Then again, it’s a serious cheese that people will remember most for its spectacular flavor.” As far as the wines Bobby will pour, look for an eclectic selection that features varietals from the top of the boot to the bottom. Bobby has a rich history of having traveled to the wine roads of Italy, creating relationships with the most esteemed makers. We're pretty sure we’ll hear a few barks of "That’s Amore” on the way out.
LEFT: COURTESY OF LAURA WERLIN // TOP: COURTESY OF FRASCA FOOD AND WINE
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around town NO PASS REQUIRED
‹ The sleek and cozy confines of the bar at Element 47. › Beluga, burgers and Dom are all part of what makes the Classic classic.
BEYOND THE TENTS A raucous good time awaits at tastings, winemaker dinners and parties poppin’ around town—no pass required. BY AMANDA RAE
HERE WE GO AGAIN! If you haven’t snagged tickets to this year’s Food & Wine Classic (the celebrity-chef frenzy sold out in April), you’re not alone. But seasoned party pros, aka locals, know how to turn a one-percenter’s booze-drenched smorgasbord into a laid-back yet high-class "Choose Your Own Adventure." “Invitation only?” Flaunt your charms, chance upon the right people, or know someone to sneak yourself in. If unsuccessful, rest assured: There’s a hangout or pop-up quite literally around every corner. So get off your phone and mingle like you mean it — embrace Aspen magic, and your glass won’t go empty. • The Little Nell, unofficial Food & Wine weekend headquarters has nightly don’t-miss events open to the public: Thursday – The Champagne Party at Chair 9. 10 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. Enjoy high-end champagne selections, with a focus on Veuve Clicquot by the glass or bottle, complemented by $5 buckets of Southern-style fried chicken. No cover, cash bar and à la carte menu. Friday – Italian Rare Wine Dinner at element 47. 8 p.m. Rajat Parr, partner/proprietor, Sandhi Wines and Domaine de la Cote, will present classic vintages of legendary producers of Italy, paired with a fourcourse rustic Italian dinner. $700, limited to 20
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
guests. A Mexican Revolution at Chair 9. 11 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. Enjoy Grand Marnier and Don Julio Margaritas and a Mexican buffet with $3 tacos from Ajax Tavern's Sous Chef Gerber. No cover, cash bar and à la carte menu. Saturday – Guild of Sommeliers Rare Wine Dinner at element 47. 7 p.m. Four-course dinner focused on French Classics complemented by some of the great wines of the world from old and classic vintages. $1,000, limited to 12 people. Shaken, Not Stirred at Chair 9. 10 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. Sponsored by Belvedere Vodka, this classic martini party will feature a New York-
style bagel bar and New York deli-inspired mini pastrami sandwiches for $3 each. • On Thursday, Chefs Club by Food & Wine unveils its latest dream team of Best New Chefs during a prix-fixe “All American Regional Dinner” at 6 p.m. Enjoy updated Mexican by Carlos Salgado of Costa Mesa, California; gutsy Greek fare by Seattle’s Zoi Antonitsas; refined new American by New York City’s Bryce Shuman; and transcendent brunch bites by Jonathan Brooks of Indianapolis. On Saturday, the restaurant features simple French fare during the “Jacques and Claudine Pepin Family Dinner” with Domaines Ott Rosé and Roederer Estate. A summer à la carte menu highlighting select Best New Chef dishes starts at 5:30 p.m. on Sunday. RSVP required. • Very rarely does the members-only Caribou Club open its antler-handled doors to the public. Even better, Thursday is the 20th annual Tequila Madness! Sure to sell out, the four-course tasting PHOTOS COURTESY THE LITTLE NELL
top left: Dining under the lights, mountainside, at the Ajax Tavern. top right: Jimmy’s Bodega provides ringside patio seats next to the Grand Tasting Pavilion.
‹ Carlton McCoy greats wine lovers on the Terrace at the Nell. › Creative ahi cones.
dinner ($90) parades 25-plus blancos, añejos, reposados, mezcals, and surprises, after a cocktail reception. Wine more your speed? Sip alongside four courses with esteemed winemakers: owner David O’Reilly of the Pacific Northwest's Owen Roe Winery on Friday and Ken Forrester of his namesake vineyards in Stellenbosch, South Africa, on Saturday. Anyone with a credit card and friendly attitude is welcome, starting at 7:30 p.m. ($150; RSVP). • Friday and Saturday nights, recent James Beard Award winner and 2014 Best New Chef Justin Yu of Oxheart restaurant in Houston will host six-course Pop-Up Dinners at Mezzaluna. Go hungry. Eat hearty. $110 to $140. Reservations at www.resy.com. • Trying to squeeze into Jimmy’s coat closet with four of your closest pals? Perfectly acceptable. Mini Jimmy’s, “The World’s Smallest Speakeasy,” returns to serve expertly mixed quaffs by Diageo USA’s world-class bartender Jeff Bell of Manhattan’s famed PDT. Reservations only. Thursday, Friday and Saturday after 7 p.m. Outside, stop by the Industry Bar on Jimmy’s Patio after 7 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday. New York City guest bartender Leo DeGroff will pour fresh cocktails with Jimmy’s signature BFICs. Hosted by William Grant & Sons. at Jimmy’s Bodega, come meet author and former Aspenite Dan Dunne, buy his new book, "American Wino," and have a glass a wine. Thursday, Friday, Saturday, $25, includes book and wine.
• Starting at 6 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday, Meat & Cheese, teaming up with Colorado’s own Niman Ranch, will begin roasting a whole hog in a curbside China box smoker. Pulled pork — with Hawaiian rolls and Asian slaw — is carved around 12 to 1 p.m. until it’s gone (dine-in or takeaway, $18). Inside, try salumista Patrick Kennedy’s new Niman Ranch dry-cured pork salami or his recent collaboration with Smoking Goose: peanut-fed hog salami with lemongrass. Pair with wheels and wedges from Laura Werlin’s beloved cheese seminars to taste or take away. • Hip new Aspen speakeasy Hooch (beneath Meat & Cheese) hosts early and late happy hours with cocktail specials. This is the only place with Fernet Branca on tap and IPA from local nanobrewery Idylwilde Brewing—live dangerously. (5 p.m. to 1 a.m.) • Hosted by firecracker chef and 2011 “Food Network Star” runner-up Susie Jimenez, the HipLatina Aspen Chef’s House makes its home at 430 W. Hallam St. “The Sporting Chef” Scott Leysath joins to cook Latin-infused fish and game during open houses on Friday, 3 to 10 p.m., and Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. ($35), plus Hangover Brunch on Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. ($25; tickets via Eventbrite.com)
• Saturday night, the Infinite Monkey Theorem’s fifth annual Wine at the Mine bash will draw more than 700 guests to revel beneath the stars at Smuggler Mine. Enjoy fire-roasted food by chefs from Oskar Blues, Arroyo Vino, Seattle Fish Co. and RiNo Yacht Club, Blackbelly Market,
TOP: GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY/FOOD & WINE; BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY THE LITTLE NELL TOP RIGHT: PHOTO BY JEREMY WALLACE
Bin 707, Abejas, Chop Shop, Unit 15 and Basta; cocktails by Bryan Dayton, co-owner of Oak in Boulder and Acorn in Denver, in collaboration with William Grant & Sons; beers by Oskar Blues; coffee beverages by Allegro Coffee; DJ sets; and tours of the silver mine, founded in 1879. Invite only (but you know how that goes). • One more year! That’s the battle cry of the Sky Hotel, which evaded demolition until 2017. Suit up and follow the bass beat to the infamous Sky Hotel Pool Party on Sunday, hosted by William Grant & Sons and drawing three funky pop-ups: the immersive-art Milagro Tequila Cantina, the Reyka Vodka Hus — cubed ice turns to snow cones via magical chimney — and the Reyka Vending Machine, which spits out Icelandic specialties such as chocolates, Blue Lagoon bath salts and cocktail bitters to lucky players.
MEANWHILE, IN SNOWMASS… • If the mere thought of “3,500 pounds of firekissed meat” makes your mouth water, then Heritage Fire, Thursday from 5 to 8:30 p.m. at Snowmass Base Village, is a daydream come true. The second annual event draws 50ish notable chefs (including host chef Will Nolan of 8K at the Viceroy) and butchers to roast heritage breed animals over live fires. The extravaganza also includes heirloom produce, artisanal cheese, oysters, carving demos, mezcal pairings, the Punch Kings cocktail competition presented by Breckenridge Bourbon, and bottomless wine — oh my! ($125 general admission, $200 VIP).
continued on page 30
W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
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around town NO PASS REQUIRED
‹ Barclay Dodge at his new restaurant, Bosq. › The bar at Jimmy’s Bodega it up at �theDishing Classic.
• On Friday at 9 p.m., Ricard by Viceroy Snowmass hosts the exclusive Late Night Asian Speakeasy: a family-style feast for 100 prepared by six celebrity Washington, D.C., chefs, spanning Chinese, Sichuan, Korean, Thai and Japanese flavors with prosecco sabering. ($125) • Porcine euphoria reaches fever pitch when the granddaddy of epic nose-to-tail events, Grand Cochon on Saturday at Viceroy Snowmass, gathers winning chefs from Cochon555’s national, 10-city culinary competition to compete for the coveted title of King or Queen of Porc. This year, a ramen bar with German wines, tartare and tiki bars, and a heritage rum cart up the ante. ($150) (Free shuttle service via Blazing Adventurebranded buses will depart from Wagner Park to Base Village every 20 minutes from 2 p.m. to 9 p.m. with returns from Base Village at 10:30 p.m., 11:30 p.m. and 12:30 a.m.)
WHERE TO HANG • Opened last winter, Aspen Kitchen unveils its three-sided rooftop terrace garden and bar overlooking Aspen Mountain this summer. Lush with native Rocky Mountain flora and boasting seating for 128, it’s the largest rooftop dining venue in town, complete with fire pits and “hanging tables” that seat six. Serving lunch, brunch and dinner, the restaurant showcases signature Saltbrick beef aged up to 100 days in a LEDglowing, Himalayan sea salt display aging room. • Bosq, the hotly anticipated new restaurant by lifelong Aspen chef Barclay Dodge (Pacifica, Mogador), opened just days ago in the former Meatball Shack spot near Wagner Park. Stop in for dishes (fava bean crostini, halibut ceviche, oxtail dumplings) inspired by Dodge's experiences traveling and cooking around the world. Soak up the action on the patio. (970-710-7299, www.bosqaspen.com)
• Victoria’s Espresso Wine Bar & Gourmet Grazing serves up Aussieapproved caffeine creations, plus eclectic pours from winemakers around the world — friends of oenophile owners John Beatty and Victoria Haveland. • Seek art — and bubbles — at dozens of Aspen gallery receptions. Hit the freeadmission Aspen Art Museum, too, if only to peep the best view in town from its top-floor sculpture garden — with a glass of wine. • No invite to Saturday night's private concert by nerd-wave 80s cover band The Spazmatics at Belly Up? Catch them Sunday night instead. Reserved seating $35, general admission $25. • Finally, scope nightlife site Messenger Aspen for last-call happenings. (www.messengeraspen.com).
RUN WITH THE CHEFS FOOD & WINE Classic 5K Charity Race – 7 a.m., Friday Lace up your running shoes and hit the pavement with your favorite chefs for this 3.1-mile Celebrity Chef 5K Charity Run through Aspen, benefitting Wholesome Wave. On-site registration will be available for $40 Thursday from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., at 425 Rio Grande Pl., and Friday from 6 to 7 a.m., located at Rio Grande Park. No cash will be accepted on-site.
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
TOP: PHOTOS BY JEREMY WALLACE BOTTOM: COURTESY THE LITTLE NELL
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quick quips CHEF’S MORSELS
Welcome to summer in Aspen and Snowmass. Our annual Food & Wine Classic weekend brings chefs and winemakers together with those who love what they do. To kick things off, we asked some of our favorite chefs to dish on everything from their fondest food memories to some of their pet peeves. COMPILED BY LAUREN GLENDENNING
Which food trend do you wish would go away? Anything with foam, smoke — foo foo food. If it doesn’t add to the overall flavor of the dish, don’t put it on the plate. I don’t care how good it looks.
MAWA MCQUEEN
CHEF-OWNER, MAWA'S KITCHEN IN ASPEN AND MARKET STREET KITCHEN IN BASALT What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? I love fried whole fish — people think I’m a healthy eater, or a Champagne and caviar girl, but I can demolish an entire fried fish. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Foodie. What does it even mean? What qualifies you to be a foodie? We all love food. We eat three meals a day. The word has no meaning to me.
What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Clean, simple cooking. People over-complicate things. It’s all a show. What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? Cassava. It’s underutilized. You can use it for a lot of dishes; you can make flour out of it. What’s your favorite Colorado grown/raised ingredient? Peaches. I love peaches, and not only are Colorado peaches delicious, there are just so many ways you can use them. Savory dishes, sweet dishes, grilled with some vanilla ice cream — I could go on and on.
What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? My husband is German, so of course I love when he makes veal schnitzel. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Fried plantain — one of my favorite foods as a child in the Ivory Coast. A VIP enters your restaurant and gives you 100% creative freedom. What do you make? African food. I love the warmth, the spices and I want them to experience different cultures, flavors and textures and share some of my childhood favorites. Instagramming food pictures – good or bad? Why? Bad. Everyone thinks they are some sort of food photographer these days, and its a shame to see something a chef has taken great care to create get cold so someone can get “likes” from their 10 followers. I think cellphones should be safely stashed away when you go out to eat anyway.
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A VIP enters your restaurant and gives you 100 percent creative freedom. What do you make? NOLA soul food. Instagramming food pictures — good or bad? Why? Good — sharing creativity is never a bad thing. Which food trend do you wish would go away? Over-plating. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Pressure frying. You just got home after a long shift — what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Rum and grilled cheese. What’s your favorite Coloradogrown or- raised ingredient? Hakueri turnips.
MARK OLDMAN
WINE AUTHOR, SPEAKER
WILL NOLAN
EXECUTIVE CHEF VICEROY SNOWMASS What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? None. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Foodie. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? Soft scrambled eggs. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. Thin-patty cheeseburgers. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Gumbo. Describe your perfect food day. Crawfish boil.
Which wine, spirit or beer are you ashamed to love? Moosehead Lager from Canada. I first sampled its golden foam as a teenager and never lost the taste for it. As Will Ferrell might say, once it hits your lips, it's so good. Which word or words do you wish food and wine writers would stop using? X is “a serious wine.” I hear this a lot but am still mystified by its meaning. If I like a wine outside their definition of “serious,” does that make me a lover of foolish wines? X food “tastes like crack” is a close second. Name a menu item (food or drink) that you can’t resist ordering. Artichokes, those magical green globes. You pull off the leaves,
nibble the tender parts and finally attack the heart. What other vegetable builds to such a satisfying climax? What could you drink daily for the rest of your life? La Tache 1962 out of a big, beautiful, rushing faucet. Which food or wine trend do you wish would go away? Restaurants that think it is acceptable to seat diners on stools. Dining out shouldn’t require chiropractic recovery. What’s the most underrated grape varietal? Viognier. It is wine, but it is also aromatherapy. Its nose never fails to transport you inside an exotic grove of peaches, apricots and flowers. You just got home after a long day — what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Capellini with Rao’s Arrabbiata Sauce, washed down with chilled cru Beaujolais. What’s your favorite Colorado wine or spirit? Leopold Bros. Absinthe Verte, the true definition of an “elixir.” An IPO trillionaire is coming over for dinner — what do you pour? Aperitif: a delicate, appetitestoking, lighter-style blanc de blancs Champagne, such as Salon Cuvee 'S' Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs.
With dinner: a gorgeously complex red Burgundy, such as a magnum of Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny. Finis: Instead of a sweet ending, we’re going to drink our dessert by bringing back Champagne, this time the richer-style, Bollinger Grande Année Brut Champagne.
JEREMY FORD
"TOP CHEF" SEASON 13 WINNER; EXECUTIVE CHEF, MATADOR ROOM, MIAMI BEACH What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Garlic butter at Papa John’s. Which word or words do you wish food writers would stop using? Foodie, trendy, craft. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. Fried calamari. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Roasted chicken. Describe your perfect food day. Eating snacks around New York City. Instagramming food pictures — good or bad? Why? Good — so the world can see what you are up to! Which food trend do you wish would go away? Fast-casual. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Proper meat resting. What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? Whole-animal butchery. You just got home after a long shift — what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Cuban rum on ice and tacos. What’s your favorite Coloradogrown or- raised ingredient? Bison.
PHOTOS LEFT TO RIGHT: PHOTO BY ROBIN PROCTER; PHOTO BY STEVE MUNDINGER; GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY/FOOD & WINE; PHOTO BY RA-HAUS
quick quips CHEF’S MORSELS
PATRICK DUNN
C. BARCLAY DODGE
CHEF DE CUISINE AT ELEMENT 47
PETER COYNE
MARU ASPEN
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Corn dogs. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Sexy. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? Blueberry pancakes. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. Chili relleno. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Sushi. A VIP enters your restaurant and gives you 100% creative freedom. What do you make? Whole Kinmedai sashimi with yuzu juice and white soy sauce and braised octopus over seaweed salad with brown butter ponzu foam on top. Which food trend do you wish would go away? Staff meal. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Slow-roasting. What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? House made fermentation. You just got home after a long shift, what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Maybe 4 strong drinks and an ice cream sundae. What’s your favorite Colorado grown/raised ingredient? Lamb and Aspen Brewing Company. The emerging no-tipping policy – good or bad? Bad.
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Tyson’s chicken fingers. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Foodie. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? Poached eggs and toast. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. Bone marrow. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Pizza. Describe your perfect food day. I’d start at Terrace Bagels in Brooklyn and have an everything bagel with salmon spread. Then I’d head to Chicago for lunch and get a classic Chicago hot dog. Then I’d hop on a flight to Denmark for dinner at Noma, by far the best meal of my life. Instagramming food pictures – good or bad? Why? I think it’s good; it keeps people engaged in the food industry and provides a nice platform to educate people on where their food comes from. Which food trend do you wish would go away? Molecular gastronomy. I don’t want to eat something that looks like an olive, tastes like an olive, but is actually an olive puree and mussel stock that has been set with spherification. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Moderation. I feel like too many times chefs make a dish around a technique they are excited about instead of ingredients and flavor profiles. You just got home after a long shift, what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Grilled cheese and a glass of wine. What’s your favorite Colorado grown/raised ingredient? Lamb.
BRADY LOWE
COCHON555 FOUNDER What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Crab rangoons — they’re my favorite. If a chef cooks a crab rangoon in a crispy pig-skin wonton in the competition, my vote will follow. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? The same ones over and over again in the same article or using the same key word in numerous articles as a mark of stylistic branding through redundancy. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. A piña colada! What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Celery, Barney’s Crunchy Almond Butter, truffle salt — OMG. A VIP enters your restaurant and gives you 100% creative freedom. What do you make? I would make a version of a mushroom dish I found in San Sebastian. Medium white button mushrooms sliced thin, thin-sliced honeycrisp apples, 1-year aged Manchago cheese, amazing Spanish olive oil layered up with raw ingredients and truffle salt, finished with fresh cracked black pepper. Instagramming food pictures – good or bad? Why? Great. I love filters. Not so much for speaking, but photos are awesome. Sharing food photos is awesome, too. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Sous-vide cooking. What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? Tomahawk steaks. What’s your favorite Colorado grown/raised ingredient? Heritage breed pigs.
PHOTOS LEFT TO RIGHT: COURTESY OF THE LITTLE NELL; PHOTO BY JEREMY WALLACE; COURTESY PHOTO; PHOTO BY JEREMY WALLACE; PHOTO BY CARI ANNE LAUSIER
SUSIE JIMENEZ
CHEF/OWNER, BOSQ
CELEBRITY CHEF
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Sorry, no shame here.
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Carnitas — cooked in lard for hours — but I LOVE them.
Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Farm-to-table. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? Chicken and mushrooms with sour cream and white wine. Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. French fries; grilled squid; oxtail; boiled peanuts; bone marrow; razor clams. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? The foam on top of my macchiato. I could live on coffee alone. Describe your perfect food day. Almond croissants and coffee from the Boulangerie in St. Barth’s taken back home to eat at our breakfast table. Lunch at Fishing with Dynamite in Manhattan Beach, California. Dinner with my wife at Gjelina in Venice Beach, California. A VIP enters your restaurant and gives you 100% creative freedom. What do you make? I can’t tell what off-the-cuff cooking would be or it would not be off-the-cuff. Instagramming food pictures – good or bad? Why? Love it! What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? Anything Chinese. You just got home after a long shift, what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Manhattan cocktail and a fried egg sandwich. What’s your favorite Colorado grown/raised ingredient? Wild chanterelles.
Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop using? Delicate. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? Grilled elk he personally has hunted! Name a menu item that you can’t resist ordering. Octopus. It's a hard one to do right so I love trying it. Describe your perfect food day. Oysters and Champagne for breakfast. A perfect taco for lunch and sharing bites with friends for dinner, inspiring my mouth and mind to give it my own twist. A VIP enters your restaurant and gives you 100% creative freedom. What do you make? Braised short rib samosas with cilantro mint chutney, fried green tomatoes with chipotle crema, habanero lime shrimp dumplings with soy ginger sauce and grilled cactus salad with seared scallops. Instagramming food pictures – good or bad? Why? Great — makes people's mouths water and ask for more. Which food trend do you wish would go away? The one where there's nothing on a plate but a charred carrot. What’s the most underutilized technique in modern cooking? Braising. What ingredient would you like to experiment with more? Turmeric. You just got home after a long shift, what do you make yourself to eat/drink? Grilled blue ribeye with charred jalapeños and sautéed arugula, and a large bottle of pinot noir. What’s your favorite Colorado grown/raised ingredient? Peaches are my ultimate.
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farm to fire COCHON-HERITAGE FIRE
PIG OUT 5,000 pounds of proteins take over Snowmass this weekend BY JILL BEATHARD AND LINDA HAYES
IT ALL STARTED IN ASPEN with Grand Cochon — 10 top chefs from around the country, the winners of founder Brady Lowe’s now-legendary Cochon555 culinary tour, going head-to-tail with heritage-breed pigs for the title of king or queen of porc. Last year, the piggy parade relocated to Viceroy Snowmass, a solid move that also inspired the launch of another Cochon555 brainchild: Heritage Fire. This year, Cochon555’s Late Night Asian Speakeasy Pop-Up makes its Colorado debut, sealing the deal on an over-the-top food, wine and swine weekend, Snowmass style. WHERE THERE’S SMOKE, THERE’S HERITAGE FIRE Whole pigs, lambs and goats; lobster; squab; rabbit; duck; fish; chicken; oysters. If you were there last year, your iPhone is likely filled with photos of what adds up to over 3,500 pounds of prime proteins like these slow-cooking over live fires on the hill at
Shuttle up to Snowmass (and back) Free shuttles will run from Wagner Park in Aspen to Snowmass Base Village. Look for Blazing Adventure buses. Non-ticket holders may register onboard. Shuttles run every 20 minutes with returns from Base Village to Wagner Park after the event.
Snowmass Base Village and on the smokers and grills of a whopping 50 local, regional and national chefs. If not, you’re in for a gotto-see-it-and-taste-it-to-believe-it kind of treat. The cult-favorite event also will include live music, specially selected wines, ice-cold brews, spirits, ciders, a special mezcal food-pairing experience and “Experience Greek,” a national preview of chef Mike Isabella’s new Greek market in Washington, D.C. In addition, 2015 King of Porc Thomas Boemer of Corner Table in Minneapolis will be cooking with Wines of Rioja; Peter Jacobsen of Team Toast in California will pair with Denver’s Grateful Bread; and the Ramen Bar, presented by Wines of Germany, will feature JeanPhilippe Gaston of Izakaya in Houston. VIP guests will get early access, a specially prepared VIP menu, a fried-chicken welcome reception and a front-row tasting of “Punch Kings Last Call,” a competition presented by Breckenridge Bourbon featuring punches by 10 winning barkeeps from regional competitions around the country. continued on page 34 photos top to bottom:
Ten chefs compete for the title of “King or Queen of Porc” at Grand Cochon at Viceroy Snowmass In addition to beer and wine, the “Punch Kings Last Call” helps satiate the thirsty Snowmass basks under the fragrant smokes of Heritage Fire The individual dishes at the Grand Cochon competition provide many bites of flavorful pig.
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
MAX FLATOW PHOTOGRAPHY
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farm to fire COCHON-HERITAGE FIRE
LATE NIGHT ASIAN SPEAKEASY POP-UP Coming to Snowmass for the first time, this all-star pop-up dinner at Ricard by Viceroy features six notable Washington, D.C., chefs, including 2016 Prince of Porc Jonah Kim of Yona, 2015 Prince of Porc Danny Lee of Mandu, three-time Cochon555 winner Scott Drewno of the Source by Wolfgang Puck, and Haidar Karoum of Doi Moi alongside Seng Luang of Thip Khao. Served family-style, the feast will pay homage to Chinese, Sichuan, Korean, Thai and Japanese dishes that inspire chefs to globalize their menus with new ingredients. The experience will kick off with a sabering of a magnum of Mionetto Prosecco, followed by five interactive courses paired with fine wines. GRAND COCHON: CALLING ALL CARNIVORES Got a craving for pork? This over-the-top, head-to-tail culinary showdown at Viceroy Snowmass features 10 top chefs cooking up 30 dishes utilizing over 1,200 pounds of heritage pork raised by American family farms. Participating chefs include Angie Mar of The Beatrice Inn in New York, Jorge Guzman of Surly Brewing in Minneapolis, Justin Yu of Oxheart in Houston, Troy Guard of TAG in Denver, Walter Manzke of Republique in Los Angeles, Diego Oka of La Mar by Gaston Acurio in Miami, Josh Henderson of Vestal in Seattle, Jonah Kim of Yona in Washington, D.C., Sarah Grueneberg of Monteverde in Chicago and Marc Zimmerman of Alexander's Steakhouse in San Francisco. Also on the menu: fine wines, a pop-up ramen bar, a selection of artisan cheeses, sustainable oysters, a tartare bar, the “Perfect Manhattan and Perfect Margarita Experience,” a tiki bar, a heritagerum cart and, ultimately, “Swine and Sweets.” Proceeds from a popup butcher shop will go to Piggy Bank, Cochon555’s nonprofit arm supporting family farms raising heritage-breed pigs.
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FOOD AND WINE • 2016
“This over-thetop, head-totail culinary showdown at Viceroy Snowmass features 10 top chefs cooking up 30 dishes utilizing over 1,200 pounds of heritage pork.” NEED TO KNOW Heritage Fire Thursday, 5 to 8:30 p.m. at Snowmass Base Village Tickets: $125 general admission, $200 VIP Late Night Asian Speakeasy Friday, 9 p.m. to midnight at Ricard by Viceroy Snowmass Tickets: $125 (only 100 seats available) Grand Cochon Saturday, 7 to 10 p.m. at Viceroy Snowmass Tickets: $150 general admission, $200 VIP All three events benefit Piggy Bank, a farm devoted to providing free heritage-breed pigs and business plans to emerging family farms. photos top to bottom:
Andrew Zimmern and company toast to a flavorful event. Cochon Founder Brady Lowe crowns Thomas Boemer of Corner Table In Minneapolis as the 2015 “King of Porc.” The assembled crowds are all smiles at last year’s Heritage Fire. The smoke and the protein are the draw for Heritage Fire at Snowmass Base Village.
MAX FLATOW PHOTOGRAPHY
ELEGANT M O U N TA I N V I L L A 4 bed / 4.5 bath 3,328 sq ft turnkey duplex 5 minute walk to Rio Grande Trail & Roaring Fork River offered at $3,195,000
MEADOW RANCH RESIDENCE 4 bed / 2.5 bath, 2,016 sq ft single family home offered at $1,495,000 L AY N E S H E A 970 379 4781
R E A L E S TAT E S A L E S
970 920 2300
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VA C AT I O N R E N TA L S
stirlingpeak.com
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600 E Main Street Ste 103
PROPERTY MANAGEMENT
Aspen CO 81611
find us on f t
Who Says You Can Not Have It All? • Freedom and convenience of you and your guests walking into town. • Euphoric lift from spectacular views of Independence Pass, Aspen Mt. & Mt. Sopris. • Summertime pleasure from huge and very private decks integrated into the design.
Additional features include: • Walk directly into main living area of home without any steps. • Sights and Sounds of the Roaring Fork River • Shared private tennis court. • Spacious three level contemporary design. • Oversized two car garage. • Very, very quiet. • Much more.
Aspen Core Realty 720 East Durant Ave. Aspen, CO 81611 www.aspencorerealty.com
Five bedrooms 6362 square feet $7,725,000
mark@aspencorerealty.com Cell: 970-618-1145 Office: 970-309-0444
For a private showing please call Mark Kwiecienski 970-618-1145 More information of this listing can be found on the home page at aspencorerealty.com
LOOKS LIKE WE WON’T BE KNOWN FOR JUST OUR VODKA ANYMORE.
Woody Creek Distillers Colorado Straight Rye Whiskey. Winner of a Double Gold Medal at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.
REAL PEOPLE DRINK RESPONSIBLY. woodycreekdistillers.com © 2016. Distilled and Bottled by Woody Creek Distillers, Basalt, CO.
WCD_Print_Rye_AspenTimes_FullPage.indd 1
6/10/16 4:26 PM
trending BEST NEW CHEFS
HERE ARE THE 2016
BEST NEW CHEFS DAVID BARZELAY Lazy Bear, San Francisco KEVIN FINK Emmer & Rye, Austin MICHAEL GULOTTA MoPho and Tana, New Orleans EDOUARDO JORDAN Salare, Seattle RAVI KAPUR Liholiho Yacht Club, San Francisco BRAD KILGORE Alter, Miami
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ILIANA REGAN Elizabeth and Bunny, the micro bakery, Chicago AARON SILVERMAN Rose's Luxury and Pineapple and Pearls, Washington, D.C. JEREMIAH STONE & FABIÁN VON HAUSKE Contra and Wildair, New York City KRIS YENBAMROONG Night + Market and Night + Market Song, Los Angeles
COURTESY OF FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE
Melissa Temple has found your piece of paradise in Aspen, and it is right on the river!
Melissa Temple has found your piece of paradise, and it’s right on the river! An ingenious contemporary riverfront masterpiece, this family retreat has been created to seamlessly connect with nature and Castle Creek river, offering the perfect setting for entertaining friends and family. 4621 sq ft | 1.3 acres | 4 bedrooms + studio apartment | 5½ baths CastleCreekContemporary.com | $7,750,000
Melissa Temple 970.948.8261 | melissa@BHHSAspenSnowmass.com | BHHSAspenSnowmass.com Instagram: @mjtaspen | Facebook: Melissa J Temple Broker 534 E Hopkins Avenue | Aspen, CO 81611
BERKSHIRE HATHAWAY HomeServices
A member of the franchise system of BHHS Affiliates, LLC
Aspen Snowmass Properties
young guns THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT The party doesn’t end after the tents close for the day. Late-night parties provide just as much fun.
"The Grand Tasting Tent felt like the major leagues I’d been training for in my college years."
GIVE US KIDS A CHANCE The Classic through the lens of a millennial BY BARBARA PLATTS
WE ALL KNOW OF the glamour of Food & Wine. We admire the luminaries, the pricey admission passes and the limitless amounts of food and booze that rest at our fingertips at every event for the three-plus days that are known to kick off summer in Aspen. We relish the perfectly seared foie gras, the buttery roe smeared over a thin slice of Serrano ham and the decadent, unpasteurized cheeses that often accumulate so much mold they can barely be categorized in the dairy food group any longer. All of the offerings at the Food & Wine Classic are luxurious, to say the least. But many of us who fall into the “millennial” age group haven’t been living long enough to really grasp just how special some of the events, chefs, drinks and dishes at the Classic are in the
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foodie world. And, additionally, how lucky we are to have these opportunities in a small town that is home to only about 6,000 people in the shoulder season. I had very little knowledge about culinary delicacies when I first moved to Aspen 3 1/2 years ago. I knew the Food & Wine Classic was the party of the year, a time for limitless booze and rich tastings of food. The Grand Tasting Tent felt like the major leagues I’d been training for in my college years. I first gained access to it by volunteering. I cleaned up food scraps, napkins and cups for two days straight in the Grand Tasting Tent. As my reward, I got to spend the third day as a guest. My strategy was the traditional "down the hatch" approach. Anything and everything I could get my hands on I consumed. Details fell by the wayside in
a conscious attempt at pure gluttony. I don’t want to speak for my fellow millennials, but I would guess many of them had a similar first experience at the Classic. It’s like being a kid in a candy store. The next year I worked with 7X Beef. The company had a large booth in the Grand Tasting Tent. This gave me a chance to understand the work that went into the event. It also gave me the opportunity to talk with serious foodies and industry notables who, while enjoying the intoxicating tendencies of the Classic, were there to experience dishes that were helping to shape the dining scene across the country. By the third year (2015), I had a media pass and was ready to learn. I experienced wine pairings with cheese guru Laura Werlin and got to watch famous chefs Andrew Zimmern and Carla Hall compete in a cook-off. Even outside of the Food & Wine magazine events, there was plenty to see. I learned about whole-animal grilling at Heritage Fire and the immense amount of foods that go with pork at the Grand Cochon. Now, in my fourth year at the Food & Wine Classic, I feel it’s best to share some of my experiences with the first-timers and anyone else who has cared to read up until this point. This is a weekend unlike any other. Although it’s a breeding ground for debauchery, it’s also a foodie’s haven and a chance to witness the forefront of food trends. In conclusion, for the millennials during the Classic weekend, although this could and probably will be the most indulgent weekend of your life to date, try to pause from time to time and learn about what it is you’re ingesting. Take a note or two, research a favorite winery, or try out a recipe after the fact. Most of all, remember to appreciate the culinary opportunity in front of you. And, for our predecessors, please be patient with our entitled tendencies and our flagrant disregard for sobriety. We will learn — eventually. COURTESY PHOTO
Aspen’s Best DeAl
559 Race Alley, Aspen | $7,600,000 Brand new construction in Fox Crossing! Enjoy views of Aspen Mountain less than a mile from the gondola. This mountain modern five bedroom, 6,045 square foot home includes an office, three decks, elevator, and three fireplaces. Living areas and kitchen include a chenille white marble fireplace, Wolf appliances, and a mudroom off the two-car garage. Entertaining area includes bar, billiards area, and media center. Web ID: AR142690
Experience is the Difference
CHRIS SOUKI
970.948.4378 chris@masonmorse.com
Coldwell Banker Mason Morse Aspen | 514 E. Hyman Avenue | 970.925.7000 | Find more at www.masonmorse.com Exclusive Member for Aspen and Snowmass, CO
©2015 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. A Realogy Company. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each office is Independently Owned and Operated. Coldwell Banker®, the Coldwell Banker Logo, Coldwell Banker Previews International®, the Previews International Logo, and “Dedicated to Luxury Real EstateSM” are registered and unregistered service marks to Coldwell Banker LLC.
Greg Didier
Terry Rogers
970.379.3980
970.379.2443
Greg.Didier @ sir.com
Terry.Rogers @ sir.com
AspenSnowmassRealEstate.com
Powerful Guides to Real Estate in the Aspen Snowmass Area!
River Frontage, Views, Location and Golf! Located directly on the banks of the Roaring Fork River, this 5 bedroom, 6 bath, 10,744 sq ft home enjoys privacy and protected views. The very best in fine finishes, amenities and design have been chosen. Spectacular Mt. Sopris views! $3,595,000
UltimateMountainHome.com
Ski-In/Ski-Out Snowmass House 6-bedroom home located directly on Adams Avenue. One of a kind rooftop deck perfect for entertaining. Park-like setting with spectacular views, pond and stream. $9,500,000 Furnished
Ski-In, Ski-Out onto Adams Avenue!
Rare opportunity to own this A+ property in the heart of Snowmass Village. Lush landscaping and incredible views. Perfect for family and friends. You will love this fantastic Colorado retreat! $9,500,000
Spectacular Vista Retreat.
Spectacular Home and Setting!
The Perfect Ranchette!
Stunning stone and timber home nestled in the piĂąon pines on 5 private wooded acres. Majestic views of the Elk Mountain Range. $2,550,000 Furnished
Beautiful 5 bedrooms, 4 full and 2 half baths, 5,978 sq ft home with sweeping view and 5 minutes to town. Grand living areas and a gourmet kitchen.
Missouri Heights 5 bedrooms, 4.5 baths, 5,061 sq ft home. Includes barn, guest quarters and horse pastures. Adjacent to National Forest access. $1,495,000
$1,999,999
AndersonRanch arts center 2016 SUMMER SERIES:
FEATURED ARTISTS & CONVERSATIONS Explore the work of world-renowned artists and curators. Enjoy stimulating conversations with today’s most influential critics and collectors. Events at 12:30 PM, unless otherwise noted. Schermer Meeting Hall. FREE, RSVP required.
July 7
TITUS KAPHAR
July 12
THOMAS HOUSEAGO
July 14
JERRY SALTZ, Senior Art Critic, New York Magazine
July 20
Conversation with ELEANORE and DOMENICO DE SOLE, moderated by art collector NANCY MAGOON
July 21
CARRIE MAE WEEMS
July 28
LIZA LOU
August 2
ANN PHILBIN, Director of the Hammer Museum, in Conversation with CHARLES RAY, 4 PM; National Council Special Event.*
August 4
Conversation with ALEX PRAGER, moderated by ADAM LERNER, Director and Chief Animator of the Museum of Contemporary Art Denver
August 11
THE HAAS BROTHERS
*To become a member of the National Council contact Hannah Thompson, hthompson@andersonranch.org or 970/923-3181 x212.
Visit andersonranch.org for our full events calendar 5263 Owl Creek Road, Snowmass Village, CO | 970/923-3181 only 15 minutes from Aspen!
533 E. Cooper Avenue Aspen, CO 81611 970.925.2007 morgenthalfrederics.com
Create Your Own Legacy The Historic ‘’Weant House’’ is in a prime Main Street
Carbondale location. A great history here with an exciting future ahead. The commercial possibilities are many in this Lapalla P.U.D building. Has a main two-story volume with one-story additions to the sides. Seven mixed dwellings allowed. A large usable area in back. This house is significant for its position in the early development of Carbondale. This house is one of a small group of large brick homes which are located adjacent to the original town site. Possible Uses: Restaurant, Bed and Breakfast, most any office space, bakery, commercial kitchen. These uses may be mixed with residential dwellings with a maximum of seven dwellings allowed within the PUD. Establish Your Own Excellence and Create a Prominent MidValley Destination.
$1,975,000 Web Id# AN142784
Rocky Whitworth
970.704.3228 rocky@masonmorse.com The Source for Real Estate 0290 Highway 133, Carbondale | 970.963.3300 | www.masonmorse.com
tribute SAM BEALL
BLACKBERRY FARM GOES TO THE MOUNTAINTOP BY KELLY J. HAYES
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The bucolic setting of Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tennessee is rivaled only by the Relais & Châteaux property’s exquisite culinary offerings.
OF ALL THE CRADLES of American cuisine, perhaps none may be more distinctive and authentic than that of the South. Fresh or fried, stewed or grilled, pickled or pecan-ed, the flavors created below the Mason-Dixon Line are incomparable. This year, the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen pays homage to these uniquely American tastes as it partners with the oh-so flavor-rich chefs of Tennessee’s renowned Blackberry Farm. On Saturday evening, guests will ascend via the Silver Queen Gondola to the very precipice of Aspen Mountain for a peak dining experience prepared by the farm's extraordinary culinary cast, led by chefs Cassidee Dabney, Sarah Steffan and Josh Feathers. The evening will commence with bites from their larder kitchens and highlight
‹ Mary Celeste Beall is the new president of Blackberry Farm
IN MEMORIAM:
SAM BEALL 1976-2016 In years past, Sam Beall became a familiar face at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen and as a judge at the Grand Cochon event in the Hotel Jerome. He was both generous with his time and intensely interested in learning about what chefs from around the country were doing, especially with the fresh farm-to-table ingredients and the heritage hogs that Blackberry Farm was pioneering.
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cheeses, charcuterie and preserves before moving on to a family-style meal paired with wines selected by Andy Chabot, food and beverage director and sommelier at Blackberry Farm. Blackberry Farm has become the premier food-destination resort in all of America. Purchased in 1976 as a family home by Sam Beall III, the founder of the Ruby Tuesday restaurant chain, it evolved over the past four decades to become a champion of the dining traditions in the region and a facilitator for culinary innovation. Today, Blackberry Farm has grown to include thousands of acres, a full working farm and a range of luxurious cottages and accommodations, with amenities like The Barn restaurant and an expansive new spa called The Wellhouse. During that same time, the property and the talented team that runs it have received the hospitality industry’s highest honors: consecutive James Beard Awards for Best Chef–Southeast, Outstanding Wine Program and Outstanding Service. And, of course, it is a crown jewel of the Relais & Châteaux chain of luxury properties. Now, under the auspices of Mary Celeste Beall, who assumed the roll of president and proprietor at Blackberry Farm this spring, it is primed to continue its role as a leader in the traditions of American cuisine. Say "yum."
No doubt, he would have loved to be a part of the special Blackberry Farm dinner atop Aspen Mountain. Unfortunately, Sam tragically passed away this year at the age of 39. He leaves his wife, Mary Celeste, his son, Sam, four daughters, Cameron, Rose, Josephine and Lila, and an adoring population of chefs and aficionados who have come to regard Blackberry Farm as a mecca for those who love food and all it represents.
He will be missed.
BEALL + THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY
Aspen Rotary Elks The Aspen Chapel Aspen Education Foundation ACES Aspen Board of Realtors, Inc. Buddy Program Aspen Junior Golf Roaring Fork Charity Classic Aspen Community Theatre Ryder Cup Fund Realtor Housing Relief Fund Snowmass Chapel Aspen Affilliat of Komen Foundation Aspen Junior Hockey Leadership Aspen Friends of AVSC Alpine Christian Academy Aspen Music Festival Early Learning Center Aspen Commnity Church Aspen High School Booster Club Aspen Skiing Company Aspen High School Aspen Valley Ski Club Aspen Board of Realtors Heldman/King Scholarship Fund Aspen Camp School for the Deaf Roaring Fork Legal Services Aspen Grassroots E xperience Glenwood A spen Roaring Fork Springs Police Department Baseball Clinic Shining Stars Aspen Writer’s Foundation F ound at io n Ch a lle nge Te n t h M o u n t a i n H u t Aspen Aspen Rugby Club Association Aspen Youth Roaring Fork Kids The Ce nt e r Ro ar ing F or k A s p e n Va l l ey M e d i c a l Leadership Aspen School Foundation 24 Hours of District Aspen Basketball A spen Found ation/M D Ac ad e my, I nc . Ci t y of KJAX – Aspen Public Radio
Many benefit from our local ownership.
Grass Roots TV, Inc. Aspen Swim Club Aspen Country Day School Basalt Lions Club Roaring Fork Rotary Foundation Aspen Ride for the Cure Stirling Cup Classic Aspen Youth Experience Theatre Aspen Avon Walk for Breast Cancer Project Graduation Aspen Art Museum Spellbinders The Right Door Rose Community Fund Hike for Hope Foundation Basalt Middle School and Basalt High School Band Boosters The Children’s Rocky Mountain School, Inc. Wilderness Workshop Aspen Girls Hockey Program Carbondale Clay Center Carbondale Rotary 5-Point Film Festival Youth Zone Chris Klug Foundation Aspen Recreation Department Sunlight Winter Sports Club Roaring Fork Outdoor Volunteers
Being an integral part of the Roaring Fork Valley community makes it even more important to support those who make this valley a place we all cherish. From our humble roots as a two-person real estate company through our expansion as players in the world wide real estate market, Aspen Snowmass Sotheby’s International Realty has provided more than $1,000,000 in assistance to dozens of local non-profit organizations. There may be no better return on investment than the one that warms our hearts.
We’re Here Today & We’ll Be Here Tomorrow.
Aspen Snowmass Village Basalt Carbondale Glenwood Springs
970.925. 6 0 6 0
AspenSnowmassSIR.com