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€ 32,00 (I) / € 47,00 (B/D) / € 51,00 (E/F/P) / € 55,00 (A/NL) /£ 43,00 (UK) / Chf 70,00 (CH) / SEM. February 2018 - ISSN 1120 - 1983 Prima immissione: 14 Febbraio 2018
COLLEZIONI
91 BRAND COLLECTIONS
# fashion editorials
www.collezioni.info Shoes Hats Bags & More S/S 2018
# fashion trends # review
# lookbook # fashion display
# special glasses # special jewelry
COLLEZIONI ACCESSORI 91 - contents NEWS AND MAGAZINES
LOOKBOOKS
10. Art Meets Fashion 12. Artistar 14. Federico Serrani 16-17. Interview: Vizio 18. Bucket Bag 20. Minimalism in jewelry 22. Color block 24. Piercing Detail 26. Hi-tech 28-29. Ultra Violet by Pantone 31. Exhibition Calendar 32-33. Interview: Orient and West e-commerce vs traditional market 34-37. Special Hat
144-145. Connected 146-149. Tribes Flavor 150-153. Liquid Metal 154-155. Optical Pop 156-159. Active Wear 160-161. Fabulous Fauna 162-165. Ancien Régime 166-167. Dandy Issue 168-169. Marine 179-171. Materic Overlays 172-173. Tropicana 174-175. Ball Gown Bouclé 176-179. Dream Like Flowers 180-181. Les Plumes 182-185. Sparkling Way 186-189. Lollipops 190-191. Geometrical Lessons 192-193. Recycling 194-195. Call to Army 196-197. Punk Flavor 198-199. Natural Materials 200-201. Rusted 202-203. Architectural 204-207. Amalfi Coast 208-211. Ultra Violet 212-215. John Wayne 216-217. Mystical Kosmos 218-219. Celestial Stars 220-221. Structural Japan 222-223. Acid Highlighter 224-225. New Chinoiseries 226-229. Sanguine 230-231. Crystal Reverb 232-233. Majolica Patterns 234-235. Street Style 236-239. Comic Books
FASHION EDITORIALS 40-53. Metal Lymph 54-67. Garden Eden 68-81. Classical Art and Chromatic Details 82- 95. Raw Surface 96-109. Memories of Anonymous
SPECIAL JEWELRY
Collezioni Accessori cover: bag and sandal by Anteprima ph. Marcella Fierro st. Ilenia Ghità
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112. Golden Kingdom 113. Aria Gioielli 114. African Touches 115. Satellite Paris 116. Jewels’ mechanism 117. Anna Rosa Moschouti 118. From the abysses 119. Arielle de Pinto 120. New Deco 121. Les Georgettes 122. Da-Me 123. Spallanzani 1880 124. Vod Dubai Show 125. Lunaria Madreperla 126. Special Watches
FASHION DISPLAY
SPECIAL GLASSES 132. Taste of sea 133. Blumarine 134. Urban Tribes 135. Lanvin 136. Massive shapes 137. Trussardi 138. Vivid Color 139. Linda Farrow 140. Industrial shapes 141. Furla
242-243. Thalè Blanc 244. Anteprima 245. Marni 246-247. Primadonna Collection 248. COS 249. Emilio Pucci 250-251. The Volon 252-253. Konplott
EXHIBITIONS 256-257. Tranoi 358. Lineapelle 260-261. Premiere Classe 263. Distributors-Collezioni in the World 264-265. Subscriptions 267. Contacts
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NEWS
FEDERICO SERRANI RETURN TO FAMILY TRADITIONS
UN RITORNO ALLE TRADIZIONI DI FAMIGLIA
Federico Serrani, cobbler. His great-grandniece Stefania Quinta decided to name her brand after him as she is well aware of his story, even if unfortunately she never met him. A real gentleman and a very hard worker, Federico passed on the wisdom of his job to many people, with whom he also shared small nuggets of philosophy, a subject he liked to read about in his spare time. After very many years Stefania, lawyer and legal counsel, still feels very strongly the call of the local leather traditions, which are indeed very strong in the area between Montegranaro and Monte San Giusto in the Marche region of Italy, where most families, yesterday and sometimes even today, worked and still work in the footwear industry. This is one of the many reasons behind the idea of bringing back to life after decades of inactivity her great-grandfather’s business. Together with his genes, Stefania also inherited from him the love, care and attention to details and processing techniques in every single stage of product manufacturing, as well as, above all, the ability to combine aesthetics and functionality. The Federico Serrani company was born according to these principles and with the objective of distributing on an international level refined and elegant high quality products, whose Made in Italy origins are immediately recognisable. After an initial start with the production of bags for photographic cameras, today the company activity is focused mainly on women’s accessories. Following the footsteps of her cobbler and philosopher great-grandfather,, Stefania’s philosophy is always exactly the same: if something is not there, we must find a way to make it.
Federico Serrani, ciabattino. Da lui prende il nome l’azienda di Stefania Quinta, sua nipote, che ricorda con orgoglio l’attività del bisnonno, purtroppo mai conosciuto. Gentiluomo d’altri tempi, gran lavoratore, Federico insegnò il mestiere a moltissimi, trasmettendo, nella sua bottega, anche piccole stille di filosofia, che leggeva nei momenti liberi. A distanza di molti anni Stefania, avvocato e consulente legale, sente ancora il richiamo dei pellami e della tradizione: questo è infatti fortissimo tra Montegranaro e Monte San Giusto, dove tutte le famiglie, ieri e, talvolta, anche oggi, lavorano nel settore calzaturiero. Per questo, dunque, l’idea di riportare finalmente alla luce, dopo decenni di inattività, l’azienda del bisnonno. Insieme ai geni, Stefania ha da lui ereditato l’amore per i dettagli, la cura e l’attenzione per ogni singolo processo della lavorazione del prodotto, e, soprattutto, la capacità di coniugare bellezza, utilità e tecnica. È secondo questi principi che nascono i lavori della Federico Serrani, azienda che vuole diffondere a livello internazionale prodotti raffinati, eleganti e di qualità, capaci così di dichiarare immediatamente la loro provenienza. Partita dalla creazione di borse per macchine fotografiche, oggi l’attività della Quinta si occupa soprattutto di prodotti femminili. La filosofia di Stefania, però, seguendo le orme di quel nonno ciabattino e filosofo, è sempre una sola: se una cosa non c’è, bisogna trovare il modo di farla.
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www.federicoserrani.com
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REVIEW
SPECIAL WATCHES by Maurizio Francesconi
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ISSEY MIYAKE Photo 5 - 6
Issey Miyake is synonymous with avant-garde innovative design as well as with the ingenuous use of pleated fabrics on a par with the great Mariano Fortuny. The constant innovation in terms of both shapes and techniques by the Japanese brand is now been infused into the Glass Watch, a watch with a case made of tempered mineral glass and stainless steel and with a dial enclosed in thick crystal glass carved to obtain a truly wonderful brilliance. Il nome Issey Miyake è sinonimo di design e ricerca d’avanguardia, d’altronde lo stilista (ormai ritiratosi) è ricordato come un genio del plissé, l’unico in grado di competere con il grande Mariano Fortuny. La ricerca perenne di nuove forme e tecniche da parte del marchio è approdata anche al mondo degli orologi con Glass Watch, un orologio con cassa in vetro minerale temperato e acciaio inox con quadrante racchiuso in uno spesso vetro cristallo scolpito singolarmente per ottenere una meravigliosa brillantezza. www.isseymiyake.com
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EBERHARD & CO. Photo 2 - 10
Gilda is the women’s style par excellence by Eberhard & Co., the historic watchmaker founded in 1887. Available either in silver for the most important occasions or with an interwoven leather strap fastened with a buckle with the instantly recognisable letter E logo. Made of steel, the case has an elliptical shape with clean streamlined lines while the mother-of-pearl dial is characterised by Roman numerals decorated with diamonds. 126
Gilda è il modello femminile per eccellenza di Eberhard & Co., storica casa di orologeria nata nel 1887. Il modello si veste di color argento per i momenti più importanti o per la sera con un cinturino in pelle caratterizzato da una lavorazione a intreccio che si chiude con una fibbia personalizzata con l’inconfondibile lettera E. La cassa è in acciaio e di forma ellittica con linee pulite ed essenziali, il quadrante è color madreperla sul quale spiccano i numeri romani con brillanti. www.eberhard-co-watches.ch
DANIEL WELLINGTON Photo 1 - 9
Daniel Wellington recently launched the Ashfield, the new extremely refined black watch with a 32 mm dial in silver or rose gold and interchangeable matt steel or leather strap. A definitely very interesting style that combines the classic but elegant shapes typically associated with the brand with a contemporary interpretation of watchmaking. The beautiful Kendall Jenner was chosen once again as ambassador
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REVIEW
SPECIAL HAT
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FLAPPER Photo 3 - 7
Flapper is the headwear brand of the Italian Belgian designer Géneviève Xhaet who lives and works in Milan creating some of the best hats on the market. The 2018 collection is inspired by the art curator Lea Vergine and boasts, among the many new styles, the turban Aglaia made of linen, woven fabrics, raffia and lurex. Flapper is a combination of references from the past and the pursuit of modernity that leads to the creation of truly timeless pieces. Flapper è il brand di cappelli della creatrice italo-belga Géneviève Xhaet che vive e lavora a Milano e crea tra i migliori copricapi presenti sul mercato. La 36
collezione 2018 è ispirata alla curatrice d’arte Lea Vergine e vanta, tra i nuovi modelli, il turbante Aglaia che unisce lino, tessuti intrecciati, rafia e lurex. Flapper unisce un occhio al passato e la ricerca della modernità che portano alla creazione di pezzi realmente senza tempo. www.flapper.it
YURI AHN Photo 1 - 8
Yuri Ahn is a Korean designer who, after a series of collaborations with major brands, launched her brand in Italy. Her latest collection reinterprets a great American classic in an unusual but interesting way by turning it into a luxury item, miles away from the stereotypical image of the baseball cap. Hence,
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a range of deluxe caps with visors and flower appliqués that have nothing to do with the grass lawns of baseball fields. Yuri Ahn è una designer coreana che, dopo una serie di collaborazioni con grandi brand, ha lanciato il suo marchio con sede in Italia. La collezione reinterpreta un grande classico, il berretto americano, in un modo insolito ma interessante, trasformandolo in oggetti di lusso e staccandolo quindi totalmente dall’immagine stereotipata del berretto americano. Niente banali berretti da baseball ma, al loro posto, lussuosi berretti con visiera e applicazioni di fiori che con i prati erbosi dello sport di riferimento hanno poco a che fare. www.yuriahn.com
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MAGAZINE
HI - TECH BALENCIAGA Nowadays we are constantly talking about technology. In the specific case of Balenciaga, the conversation is not about online connection, the selfie-mania, and the internet but rather about details taken from the world of motorbiking and about elements that refer to the intergalactic universe. Details and references applied to a very classic bag style, the doctor’s bag that becomes a truly modern, almost futuristic object, complete with lights and reflectors, made of either white or bright green plastic. A new version of a classic bag, perfectly capable to meet and satisfy the needs of the hypothetical women of a near future. Si parla sempre di idee tecnologiche ma questa volta non di connessione, selfie-mania, internet ma bensì di dettagli della moto, che rimandano ad un mondo interspaziale che Balenciaga ha deciso di inserire in questo bauletto che tutto sembra meno che la più classica fra le borse. Il bauletto si veste di modernità e diventa un oggetto futuristico, con tanto di luci e catarifrangenti, realizzato in plastica in bianco ma anche in verde acceso. Un nuovo formato per una borsa adatta ad accompagnare e soddisfare un’ipotetica donna del futuro.
www.balenciaga.com
ANNAKIKI X DISSONA The Spring/Summer 2018 collection is the perfect epitome of the contemporary world and of the 3.0 pop era where cell phones and technology reign supreme. Selfie-mania and the being connected obsession therefore are the dominant themes of the entire range. Small shoulder bags, backpacks and bum bags, extremely trendy at the moment, all in bright neon colours like lilac, sea green, purple, red. Decorated with the online connection symbol in relief and in contrast, reminiscent of a computer key, the range of irreverent young accessories confirms technology as one of the most important seasonal trends. La collezione primavera-estate ci trasporta nella contemporaneità: nel mondo dell’era pop 3.0 dove il cellulare e la tecnologia regnano sovrani, la selfie-mania e l’ossessione dell’online diventano il tema dominante dell’intera linea. Piccole borse a tracolla, zainetti e il trend del momento ovvero i marsupi sono tutti realizzati in colori vivaci, al neon, come lilla, verde acqua, viola, rosso con il simbolo della connessione in rilievo e a contrasto, come fosse un pulsante. Una serie di accessori giovani e irriverenti che riconfermano una delle grandi tendenze della stagione, la tecnologia.
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TREND
FASHION EAST
KOCHÈ
JEREMY SCOTT
ASSEMBLY X COLLINA STRADA
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from Runways SS18 27
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MAGAZINE
ART MEETS FASHION 10 DECOART 10 DECOART was born from the discovery by Anna, a painter, of her great passion for jewellery design. Not surprisingly, therefore, the artist’s sensitivity emerges in every single piece of a collection that unites in an unusual way shapes and colours and that plays with the idea of contrasts. Can the imperfect become perfect? The answer to this provocative question is found in each piece, which are all inspired by art. In this game of mirrors between high jewellery and art, the fact that the designer is inspired by great contemporary artists, first of all Picasso, is immediately apparent. 10 DECOART nasce dalla creatività di Anna, una pittrice che ha scoperto la passione per il design. Non a caso, dunque, la sensibilità dell’artista emerge in ogni pezzo di questa collezione che unisce in modo inusuale forme e colori, giocando con l’idea del contrasto. Può l’imperfetto diventare perfetto? La risposta a questa provocatoria domanda si trova in ciascun esemplare che è ispirato, ispirandola a sua volta, dall’arte. In questo gioco di specchi tra alta gioielleria e arte salta così subito all’occhio l’ispirazione derivata da grandi artisti contemporanei, primo tra tutti Picasso.
www.en10decoart.com THREAD EM The Bang collection by this new brand immediately declares its inspiration: as a matter of fact, its name is a direct quote from one of Pop Art most famous artworks. Vibrant colours, bold shapes and eclectic materials come together harmoniously to create an easy-to-match cheerful range of bags and foulards, skilfully hand-painted on the finest silks from Como, Italy. The collection thus takes us on a journey through the history of abstract art, from Pop Art to the 1980’s. La collezione Bang di questo nuovo brand dichiara subito a grande voce la propria ispirazione: il suo nome arriva infatti direttamente da uno degli slogan più famosi della Pop Art. Colori vibranti, forme coraggiose e materiali eclettici si uniscono quindi armoniosamente per creare le allegre borse di questa collezione. A queste si accompagnano i foulard dipinti a mano su pregiata seta di Como, progettati con attenzione per essere facilmente abbinali. La collezione finisce così per accompagnarci in un viaggio nella storia dell’arte astratta, portandoci dalla Pop Art allo stile anni Ottanta.
www.threadem.it 10
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INTERVIEW
ORIENT AND WEST: E-COMMERCE VERSUS TRADITIONAL MARKET Interview with Lotte, well known Asian e-shop and Danny D’Alessandro Mipel’s president, that highlight the differences between two markets. Have the focus and shift from the West to the East, alongside online shopping, changed the aesthetics and the functional aspects of accessories? If so, how? LOTTE: Oriental accessories tend to represent much more than Western accessories. Orientals tend to be more shy than westerners, so accessories seem to have a stronger function as a means for expression rather than just as decorative items. Therefore, Asian accessories and handbags are more likely to be used as a tool to express oneself and one’s personality rather than to express one’s taste. However, the oriental trends tend to change very quickly as young people become more used to expressing their own taste and personality: this has led to major changes in consumption patterns and in the market in general. Because of the variety of retailers and because of the diversity of omni-channels, the current marketplace can not predict popular items and popular demand and is, therefore, a big change that is turning accessories into more aesthetic functional tools, almost like a second skin, that show themselves with variety of their own. DANNY D’ALESSANDRO: As always, everything depends on the ability to purchase a products. Commerce in the East is expanding rapidly and in some so called “developing” countries there is a surge in numbers within the middle class and the new generations of wealthy people who are very experienced when it comes to fashion. Brand names are important but often they are not enough as consumers are becoming more interested in quality and lately in sustainability. As for the function of accessories, function, the ratio between outerwear and fashion accessory has been partially reversed in the last five years. The world’s biggest multi-brand stores offer more and more accessories, from bags and small leather goods to footwear and even sex toys. Accessories allow consumers to personalise their own look and style thanks to two fundamental characteristics: first, the cost of the product is on average accessible and secondly, accessories allow to be more extravagant than outerwear items. Have any changes to the concept of the trade show been already implemented or being planned because of the impact of e-commerce and because of the shift of interest towards the East? LOTTE: It is undeniable that the East and the West are rapidly getting closer to each other due to online shopping through mobile phones and due to the rapid delivery thanks to the development of the logistics system. Also, as I mentioned earlier, more and more personality-seeking accessory consumption patterns will find new expression beyond nationality and territory. For this reason, an online shopping mall that has the advantage of easily linking brands and consumers beyond the boundaries of the region is bound to show more and more new brands and concepts to the end consumers. DANNY D’ALESSANDRO: Trade shows are still a very important point of reference for the business-to-business market. Fashion buyers, even more than end consumers, need to try the product, touch it, smell its style, imagine it in their stores. It is no coincidence that the “Touch, Watch, Listen” creative concept of the next edition of MIPEL, from February 11th to 14th at Fiera MilanoRho in Milan, is focused on the senses. Having the opportunity to create a physical contact between the products and the buyers and to access the product experiential content is still crucial, especially for medium and medium-high brands, those brands that make “beautiful and well-made” products but that cannot always rely on the same brand awareness/ recognition of leading brands with their impressive advertising budgets. Top brands do not need to exhibit in trade fairs. It is clear that in the medium term it is essential to include supplementary elements to the trade show format. For the moment, I cannot envisage how the trade show format can be replaced and how it would be possible for buyers and brands to operate without the opportunities provided by trade shows. 32
Metal Lymph
A nocturnal journey in an inhabited garden, where the light of dawn illuminates every detail with boreal nuances. Un viaggio notturno in un giardino abitato, dove la luce dell’alba illumina ogni dettaglio donandogli sfumature boreali.
Photo Marcella Fierro Photo assistant Laura Bessega Styling Ilenia GhitĂ Styling assistant Francesco Maffei
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Sunglasses-occhiali da sole Kyme, shoes-scarpe Kallistè, bag-borsa Bao Bao by Issey Miyake
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Etro
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GARDEN EDEN The elegance of botany infuses the accessories with idyllic and soothing moods. L’eleganza della botanica anima gli accessori di atmosfere idilliache e rasserenanti.
Photo Michele Ercolani Styling and concept Maddalena Montaguti Styling assistant Alessia Broccardo Art direction and graphic project Chiara Silvestri @4hands4
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Jimmy Choo
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CLASSICAL ART AND CHROMATIC DETAILS The chromatic details of next season are combined with fragments of classical art creating an intimate atmosphere. I dettagli cromatici della prossima stagione vengono accostati a frammenti di arte classica creando un’atmosfera intima.
Photo Sofia Okkonen Styling Ilenia Ghità Styling assistant Noemi Agnani Location Gipsoteca Istituto d’arte Venturi, Modena
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Angiolo Frasconi
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MEMORIES OF ANONYMOUS. The personal effects of anonymous people gathered in a fictitious notebook, with the purpose of telling stories. Gli effetti personali di persone anonime raccolti in un fittizio diario di viaggio, con l’intento di raccontarne le diverse storie.
Photo Luciano Pergreffi Styling and concept Ilenia GhitĂ Styling assistant Francesco Maffei
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MAGAZINE
JEWELS' MECHANISM MAYMOMA The Eden collection, designed by Simona Nicolosi for may mOma, is a tribute to femininity through the exaltation of its most masculine aspects. Lines characterised by a powerful formal rigour make up shapes that seem to be extracted from the gears of supersonic vehicles and of complex industrial machinery. And yet, just between the lines of this severe androgyny, emerge the unmistakable features of an imperturbable, courageous, emancipated, secret, exciting, delicate and precious femininity, just like the materials that make up the jewels handcrafted by Italian artisans. La collezione “Eden”, disegnata da Simona Nicolosi per may mOma, è un omaggio alla femminilità attraverso l’esaltazione dei suoi aspetti più mascolini. Linee caratterizzate da un potente rigore formale compongono forme che sembrano sottratte agli ingranaggi di veicoli supersonici e complessi macchinari industriali. Eppure, proprio tra le righe di questa severa androginia, emergono i tratti inconfondibili di una femminilità imperturbabile, coraggiosa, emancipata, segretamente emozionante, delicata e preziosa, proprio come i materiali che compongono questi gioielli realizzati a mano da artigiani italiani.
www.maymoma.com
SHEINFELD RODRIGUEZ The development of natural organic forms follows generative algorithms that the human mind struggles to visualise without the aid of digital tools. In the same way, in the work of Sheinfeld Rodriguez, the style references suggested by the Hawaiian landscape, like, for example, the cliffs on which the perpetual inscrutable motion of the ocean waves breaks, take shape through precise sequences of digital fabrication. Reworked through coding, the designs are prototyped using 3D wax printers and then translated into precious metals using traditional techniques. Lo sviluppo delle forme organiche in natura rispetta algoritmi generativi che la mente umana fatica a visualizzare senza l’ausilio di strumenti digitali. Allo stesso modo, nel lavoro di Sheinfeld Rodriguez, le ispirazioni formali suggerite dal paesaggio hawaiano, per esempio le scogliere su cui infrange il moto perpetuo e imperscrutabile delle onde oceaniche, prendono forma attraverso precisi passaggi sequenziali di fabbricazione digitale. Il disegno, rielaborato attraverso il coding, viene prototipato con stampanti 3D a cera per poi essere tradotto in metallo prezioso con tecnica tradizionale.
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LOOKBOOK
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SPECIAL JEWELRY
ARIELLE DE PINTO www.arielledepinto.com 119
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MAGAZINE
MASSIVE SHAPES ANDY WOLF ON AERE - STORE The eclectic products by the Austrian brand Andy Wolf reflect the entire Central European artistic design tradition in the attention to detail exalted in the authenticity of the materials associated with the masters of twentieth century architecture and in the predilection for an elegantly streamlined decorativism. A perfect synergy between craftsmanship and innovation that brings to mind the ambitious adventure of the Wiener Werkstätte. The wide frames made of monochrome acetate, in particular, reinterpret retro lines of absolute femininity. Nelle eclettiche produzioni del marchio austriaco Andy Wolf c’è tutta la tradizione artistico-progettuale mitteleuropea del Moderno: la cura del dettaglio esaltato nell’autenticità dei materiali propria dei maestri dell’architettura del Novecento e la predilezione per un decorativismo elegante e essenziale, frutto di una perfetta sinergia tra artigianalità e innovazione, che riporta alla mente l’ambiziosa avventura delle Officine Viennesi. I modelli di acetato monocromo trattato in forte spessore, in particolare, reinterpretano linee retró di assoluta femminilità.
www.aere-store.com
JPLUS No matter what your personality is. You can certainly find it, represented in its most daring sides, in one of the eyewear styles by JPLUS, the Italian brand founded by Alessandro Martiri to counterbalance the banality of most of the eyewear market with designs with powerful aesthetic impact. An approach that is appreciated by many as proved by the fact that the company has grown enormously. The brand offers to its most exhuberant and sensitive customers the JPLUS-SARTORIALEYES research collection, with particularly complex construction elements made of 100% recyclable and biodegradable bioplastic. Non importa quale sia la vostra personalità, di certo potrete ritrovarla, rappresentata nei suoi lati più audaci, in una delle creazioni JPLUS: marchio italiano nato dalla volontà di Alessandro Martiri di contrastare la banalità del mercato con autoproduzioni di potente impatto estetico. Un’esigenza che sembra sia stata condivisa da molti, tanto che oggi l’azienda è cresciuta enormemente e può offrire agli spiriti più irrequieti e sensibili la collezione di ricerca JPLUS-SARTORIALEYES, con elementi costruttivi di particolare complessità realizzati in bioplastica 100% riciclabile e biodegradabile.
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LOOKBOOK
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SPECIAL GLASSES
LINDA FARROW www.lindafarrow.com 139
TROPICANA
RENÈ CAOVILLA
FURLA
MELISSA
KRIZIA
MARNI
LOOKBOOK
PUGNALE
PRETTY BALLERINAS
POLLINI
PALM ANGELS
LES PETITS JOUEURS
HAVAIANAS
MARC CAIN
MM6 BY MAISON MARIANGELA
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LOOKBOOK
MARISA
DAMIANO MARINI
POLLINI
FRAU
THE VOLON
SAMUELE FAILLI
GIANNICO
AERÉ-STORE
LIQUID METAL
VIC MATIÈ
ROBERTO DI STEFANO
ANGEL CHEN
OSCAR TIYE
MYSTICAL KOSMOS
LORA NIKOLOVA
ALAIN TONDOWSKI
GUCCI
PEET DULLAERT ON AERÉ-STORE
LOOKBOOK
KALLISTÉ
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CORNELIA WEBB
EDIE PARKER
CORNELIA WEBB
BAO BAO ISSEY MIYAKE
LINDA FARROW
PEET DULLAERT ON AERÉ-STORE
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THALE BLANC
FASHION DISPLAY
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REVIEW
PREMIERE CLASSE
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JANE CARR Photo 1-10
Jane Carr, the British designer who founded the eponymous label, has a impressive resume: after graduating at Central Saint Martin in London she worked at Versace as Head of Printed Textiles. It is no surprise, therefore, that her foulards are of such a high level, both in the choice of fabrics and in the quality of the prints. The S/S 2018 palette focuses on different shades of blue as well as coral, yellow and black. Alongside the foulards, for which she is famous, a range of season-less lightweight cashmere scarves in solid colours. La britannica Jane Carr, fondatrice dell’omonimo brand, ha un curriculum di tutto rispetto: diplomata alla Central Saint Martin’s lavora per Versace come capo del settore che si occupa delle stampe. Non stupisce dunque che i foulard nei quali è specializzata siano di un tale livello, sia nella scelta dei tessuti che nella qualità di stampa. La palette per la p/e 2018 attraversa le tonalità dell’azzurro ma anche il corallo, giallo e nero. Si aggiunge ai foulard, per cui 260
è famosa, anche una linea di leggere sciarpe in cashmere di colore unito perfette sia per i mesi più caldi che per l’inverno. www.jane-carr.com
ABCENSE Photo 4-8
It is undeniable that Far East Asia is the most fashion-conscious area on the planet and that Asian designers are an almost inexhaustible source of new ideas. Launched and based in Taipei, Abcense is a brand specialised in geometrical and architectonic footwear. The heels, for example, are real sculptures that seem to have been borrowed from the buildings in Brasilia designed by Oscar Niemeyer, just as the geometric decorations that embellish the toecaps of the various different styles. Shoes that are authentic pieces of post-modern decorative art and, moreover, are designed to be extremely comfortable. È innegabile il fatto che gli asiatici siano fonte pressoché inesauribile di nuove idee e che siano la zona più fashion-conscious sul pianeta. Abcense è un
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brand nato e con sede a Taipei che si è specializzato in scarpe che puntano tutto sulle geometrie e sulle architetture; i tacchi sono vere e proprie sculture che sembrano fuoriuscite dalle architetture di Oscar Niemeyer a Brasilia, così come i decori geometrici ad abbellire la punta dei vari modelli. Sono veri e propri pezzi di arte decorativa post moderna che, in più, dimostrano anche una progettazione da renderle estremamente comode. www.abcense.com
CATHERINE OSTI Photo 2-9
Catherine Osti is a fairly unique phenomenon in the fashion world as she designs and creates accessories that are actually partly garments. A collar becomes a necklace and a cuff of a top becomes a bracelet. They are not bijoux per se because they were thought, designed and produced as collars or cuffs. Used as embellishments by the wearer, they are made of high quality crochet, embroideries and fabrics in the brightest white or in black. They are almost like haute couture pieces, hence unique within the world of accessories.