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CAPTU
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URE CREATIVE CONNECTICUT FOOD AND FARM
PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY FOR THE AGRICULTURAL AND FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRIES
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in this issue
POWERED BY LOVE
ERIK OFGANG
GRILLED FRUIT MARGARITAS
JAMES LUCCHESI
PICK YOUR OWN
PERFECT BLOOMS
THE SURPRISING FUTURE OF AN
ICONIC ICE CREAM PARLOR
ERIK OFGANG
SEACUTERIE
KRISTIN L. WOLFE
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SUMMER 2021 | VOLUME 24
UNDERGROUND KITCHEN
RUTH R. HARTUNIAN-ALUMBAUGH
THE PROOF IS IN THE BATTER
MARY ELLEN FILO
COOKING WITH JUNK FOOD
BEN DUBOW
SOLAR DYEING
JESSICA PORZUCZEK
WOOD-FIRED
PIZZA ROAD SHOW
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T E U R C I A E E BY KRISTIN L. WOLFE
ANNA SAWIN PHOTOS
Charcuterie Boards have been the go-to date-night or friends-over, pick and pop-in-your-mouth spread of the last few years, but it’s time to switch up the menu for summer. Roll up the salame, and lay on the shrimp.
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We thought there was no one better to help us create a Seacuterie Board than Chef Olivia Formica who pretty much grew up at Flanders Fish Market, her family’s business, in East Lyme. Formica is the youngest of four children, but the one who has taken the reins in the kitchen. “I always loved watching the guys on the line tossing the sauté pans,” she recalls. “I would stand at the end as a young girl with longing eyes just hoping to master that art...” After years of following her dad and the other cooks around, she realized she wasn’t just helping her family, cooking became a true passion. How fitting that she took that devotion to new heights on Valentine’s Day just over a decade ago when she first began her professional journey at the Culinary Institute of America. Although a restaurant kitchen has always been familiar territory, she remembers, “Entering the CIA was one of the most magical moments of my life. I arrived early and stayed late, and I rushed to finish my prep so I could help other stations and learn even more.” Then, after a stint in NYC at Chef Charlie Palmer’s restaurant Aureole, she went back to Flanders. With sharpened chops, a fresh perspective, and newfound pride in her family’s business, Chef Formica decided to build on Flanders’ success. “My goal was to simply polish. Obviously you don’t need to fix what ain’t broken. We stay true to our roots here, which is something I have admired about our place since I was little.”
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O T E IM
T P THE S U ’ H C IT WIT
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FLANDERS FISH MARKET BEGAN ON A SHOESTRING IN 1983. With $41 to their name and a baby on the way, Paul and Donna Formica found a little house on Chesterfield and had an idea. They piecemealed everything together, found a great fishmonger out of Boston, and set sail on the thriving business it is today.
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AS CT’S LARGEST FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANT AND SEAFOOD MARKETPLACE, Flanders Fish Market was inducted into the Connecticut Hospitality Hall of Fame in 2015. Always evolving and expanding, they will soon offer a Nationwide Live Lobster Shipping program, and sell their popular seasonings, sauces, and other merch.
Making your own Seacuterie Board gives you the opportunity to be creative and cater to your guests tastes. Try to think about the visuals, the types of ingredients you want to serve, and, especially with seafood, the temperature of items and the length of time on the board before serving. Chef Formica has a leg up, surely, but don’t let her board intimidate you. Try to balance flavors, colors, and add veggies, dips, chips, crackers, breads, or salads to expand the selection. Placing the items can get tricky, so keep in groups and start in the middle when building your beautiful display. Creating boards definitely takes time---and more thought than opening a bag of chips or a jar of dip---but this will be way more memorable, satisfying….and oh so Insta-worthy.
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INGREDIENTS ON PICTURED BOARD:
“BALANCE FLAVORS, COLORS, AND ADD VEGGIES, D
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Octopus from Spain, two ways: as carpaccio with arugula black pepper; grilled and topped with Olive Oil Smoked salmon
D D D D
Dill Pickles Pickled Purple and Green grapes Fried Capers Shrimp
D Oysters - Raspberry Points from Prince Edward with a Cucumber Mignonette (Chef’s favorite) D Fennel Salad D Smoke Blue Fish Dip with Fried Capers (see recipe) D Pickled Red Onion D King Crab Legs D Garlic Crostini
DIPS, CHIPS, CRACKERS, BREADS, OR SALADS TO EXPAND THE SELECTION...”
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SMOKED BLUEFISH DIP yields 1 QT
1 lb smoked bluefish, skin/bloodline (dark line between skin and white flesh) removed. 1/2 C mayonnaise 1/2 C sour cream zest and juice of 1 lemon 1/2 bunch flat leaf parsley, chiffonade 3 T old bay seasoning 2 T Worcestershire sauce cracked pepper, to taste
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1. Shred smoked fish, with your hands to be sure to remove pin bones, if any. 2. In a medium mixing bowl, add all remaining ingredients with fish and pulse on medium with a hand blender until smooth homogenous mixture. 3. Season with freshly cracked black pepper 4. Serve with some crispy fried capers and toasted ciabatta bread.
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SCALLOP CRUDO serves 2 for appetizer
6 10/20 local stonington sea scallops, muscles removed, sliced lengthwise 1 t grated ginger 1 fl oz lime juice 2 fl oz extra virgin olive oil 5 chives, thinly sliced 3 T pomegranate seeds 15 parsley leaves, no stems Tajin seasoning, to taste
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1. Gently toss sea scallops in ginger, lime juice and olive oil. Set aside. 2. Prep the chives, pomegranate seeds, and parsley leaves while you let the scallops marinate slightly. 3. Lay the sea scallop slices down on a serving dish and pour remaining lime juice/olive oil mixture over them.
4. Season with Tajin, lightly dusting each scallop. 5. Sprinkle with chives and pomegranate seeds. 6. Finish with parsley leaves, placing them over the finished product.
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FIND THEM at their stand on Crescent Beach this summer or go to one of their clambakes on June 29, July 20, or August 17
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Many people are intimidated by working with seafood. Chef Formica wants to change that one step at a time. I asked her about how people can get started before even pulling out their board for Seacuterie. “HOT PANS!” she urges. “Seafood should be cooked for a short amount of time in a very hot pan.” AND, “Seafood should NEVER smell fishy. The quality and where you source your seafood is wildly important. Here at FFM we have our own refrigerated vans and head straight to the fish pier-we pick up right from the source so that our product does not sit anywhere for any extra length of time. Our motto is FRESH and we are as fresh as you can get!”
FLANDERS FISH MARKET 22 Chesterfield Road, East Lyme flandersfish.com
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ICO NIC
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FUTURE O G N I FA S I R
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by Erik Ofgang Winter Caplanson photos
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No food is more nostalgic than
ice cream. Each cone drips with memories of first dates, family vacations, post Little League game sojurns and summer sunsets and nights.
Matt Viens, who purchased Salem Valley Farms Ice Cream in 2018, knows this well. He was first drawn to this quintessential Connecticut ice cream stand not as a potential business owner but rather as a fan who discovered the magic of the place on his own family vacations. Viens used to live in Pennsylvania but his great grandfather built a summer house on Lake Hayward that is still in the family. Stopping at Salem Valley Farms was one of his family’s summer vacation rituals. “For many, many years, as long as I can remember, we would go up for an ice cream,” he says. “It just created a lot of great memories for us. “
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He, his wife and the rest of the family were drawn by the rich, creamy amazing ice cream as well as the pastoral setting. Salem Valley Farms is a takeout-only stand, off of Darling Road in Salem, which looks like a postcard for roadside Americana. Viens was the owner of a retail beer store in Pennsylvania but decided to sell the business a few years back. As he began exploring other options, he thought about trying to sell ice cream in some wholesale capacity and contacted Salem Valley Farms in 2018 about carrying their product. The owners said they were looking to retire.
Salem Valley Farms is a takeout-only stand, off of Darling Road in Salem, which looks like a postcard for roadside Americana. CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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“I immediately called my wife and said, ‘You’re not going to believe what’s going to be on the market.’ And so we discussed it, and three months later, we bought it.” Viens is the fourth owner of the ice cream stand, which opened in the 1980s. Since making the move from beer to ice cream and Pennsylvania to Connecticut, he’s been focused on modernizing and expanding the business while staying true to its roots and all that drew Viens’ family and so many others to the place over the years. This can be a tricky balance to strike for some new owners of legacy businesses. The establishments’ fiercely loyal fan bases sometimes see any updates as changes for the worse. However, Viens has blended these two needs with the same skill he and his employees blend milkshakes. “My philosophy going in was that I wanted to make subtle changes, and what I mean by that is, let’s upgrade some equipment, let’s maybe clean up the place a little inside and make it our own — cosmetic changes, painting, things of that nature,” he says. “As far as the ice cream is concerned, I didn’t want to change anything. The only thing I wanted to do was have some fun and maybe dabble with some new flavors.” Viens has expanded the brand’s social media presence, has upped distribution of the ice cream — you can now purchase it at several small businesses in the area — and would like to open a new location at some point. “We feel like we need to be close enough to where people know our name,” Viens says, but not so close that it takes business from the main site. He says selling ice cream is surprisingly similar to selling beer. “In the beer world, there’s all kinds of different types of beers and different kinds of fermentation, whether it’s a lager or an ale,” he says. “With ice cream you can have a lot of fun with different flavors.”
The only thing I wanted to do was have some fun and maybe dabble with some
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Inspired by the beers that brewery’s brew in small batches, Viens has launched an experimental series. “We call it our small batch series where we dabble with different flavors,” he says. As for making the ice cream itself, that’s still done the same way it always has been. It is 16 percent butterfat, making every flavor rich and creamy, and Viens says they never skimp on ingredients for various flavors. “Our costs have gone up significantly over the years, but we still try to keep those ingredients because that’s what makes us who we are,” he says. “You ever go to a pizzeria and go, ‘Something’s different.’ It’s because they’re getting lesser quality mozzarella, because they’re trying to maybe
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cut some cost, but it affects the taste. So we’ve never done that, we’re always committed to getting the best ingredients.” Those of us who love this ice cream attraction can rest easy knowing that we’ll have many more nostalgia-tinged visits here in summers to come. The only place Salem Valley Farms Ice Cream is going is into the future.
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n Perfect
Blooms at these Conne cticut Farms
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A basket of blueberries you picked in the patch tastes sweeter, in the same way a bouquet of f lowers you cut from a field in bloom is all that much prettier. It’s not only about snipping blossoms; it’s the whole experience! Stroll row after row of flowers in the peak of bloom, take in the beauty of the day and watch the hummingbirds and pollinating bees and butterflies at work. Come with your family, your friends, your sweetheart... select the perfect blooms and leave with the most beautiful and fresh locally grown flowers, for less than the price of a supermarket bouquet, while in turn supporting Connecticut agriculture. Here’s our roundup of the state’s most lovely PYO flower farms. Call ahead to confirm days and hours… Mother Nature dictates opening day! Many farms will let you borrow scissors or garden nippers but you should bring a container in which to transport your flowers, you may fill it with water there. Wear appropriate footwear to protect from rocks and mud. Some farm sales are cash only, either selling flowers by weight or by the stem. When cutting, aim for the lower part of the stem but make sure you just cut off a single bloom, not the entire plant.
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When you get them home, remove all the unnecessary foliage off of the blooms before placing into a vase. “Removing leaves that will be underwater helps the blooms last longer. Leaves in the water will give off a chemical that will aid the blooms in dying sooner. Which NOBODY wants... am I right? Clean stems and clean water is how we keep them healthy and gorgeous,” advises Grace Christie of Graceful Acres. Step up your floral design by placing a “flower frog” in the bottom of a bowl or a vase to make your flower arrangement look full and airy and hold it firmly in place. Flower frogs were popular in the US during the 1920s and ‘30s, before blocks of artificial floral foam came into use. Make your own reusable flower frog by balling up a piece of chicken wire so that it’s large enough to press against the sides of the container and stay snugly in place. Make a day of it! We’ve collected locals’ favorites for food, drink, and vintage shopping a little while you’re in town!
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FOODANDFARM. GracefulCT Acres by Winter CaplansonCOM
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Fruend’s Farm Market and Bakery 324 Norfolk Road, East Canaan 860-824-0650
Pick your own flowers begins early-mid July. The farm can supply you with a bucket and a pair of clippers. The cut flower bed sits in front of their solar panels…this is a farm with significant commitment to sustainability and renewable energy. Also visit the farm
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stand stocked with plants, produce, locally made foods, and farm-bakery goods. You can buy freshly cut flowers there as well, by the stem or bouquet.
IN THE AREA:
Land of Nod Vineyard & Winery Great Falls Brewing Company Blackberry Bistro Old New England Market, handmade, repurposed, and vintage goods.
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Gutt Family Farm 155 Addison Road, Glastonbury
Flower PYO opens in late July. The farm can provide clippers and rubber bands to contain your bouquets. While you’re there, shop the farm stand for fresh produce (they are famous for their sweet corn!) or pre-made flower bouquets.
IN THE AREA:
El Pollo Guapo Spicy Green Bean Dee’s One Smart Cookie Bakery Griswold Street Antiques
Jennifer Albert
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Petersen’s Flower Farm
125 Burgess Road at the corner of Burgess and Foster Roads, South Windsor
IN THE AREA
Jem’s Gardens and Dairy Barn Oakland Pizza Co. Sawadee Thai Villa of Lebanon
Flower picking opens early July and continues with new varieties coming into blossom until the first frost. From zinnia to sunflowers, snapdragons and coxcomb, the flower field offers 4 acres of annuals and perennials for cutting. Open from dawn to dusk, payment is made on the honor system for blossoms and fruits and veggies in the stand. Pick, weigh, and pay…clippers and water jugs are provided!
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Laurie Bonneau
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Petersen’s Farm by Laurie Bonneau 44
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Lapsley Orchard
403 Orchard Hill Road ( Route 169) Pomfret Center Pick Your Own flower cutting begins in mid-July and then the field is open every day from 10:00-6:00. Create your own flower bouquet with blossoms from over 3,000 flower plants. The farm’s annual Sunflowers for Kids event is held the Sunday
of Labor Day Weekend when all proceeds collected from flower sales are donated to United Community and Family Services to help fund local children’s programs. That day also includes hay rides, PYO apples, and children’s activities. While at the farm, visit the farm store stocked with fruits and vegetables grown on the farm. Maple syrup, honey, maple candy, jams and jellies, meats and more from nearby farms are also available.
IN THE AREA
Watercure Farm Distillery Sharpe Hill Vineyard We-Li-Kit Farm Ice Cream Airline Grill
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Raspberry Knoll Farm 163 N Windham Rd, North Windham
High tunnel planting here means tender seedlings are protected from late frosts and flowering starts earlier, usually by the beginning of July. Make your picks from half an acre of colorful annuals and perennials including Russian Sage, Bells of Ireland, Cosmos, Dahlia, Queen Anne’s Lace, Zinnias, Calendula and more. Pricing is by the pound and herbs are also available for cutting. Clippers are supplied!
IN THE AREA:
The Fish Market Willimantic Brewing Company The Harp on Church Trailside Treasure
Want to cut flowers for a special occasion? The flower field is open by appointment on days the farm is closed or extra early to ensure flowers are at their peak condition. Shop the farm stand for their own produce or a flower bouquet.
Carla McElroy
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Scotts’ Farm & Greenhouses 81 Plains Road, Essex 860-767-7059
Cut your own flowers here begins in mid to late July and remains open until frost. Select from an array of over 80 eclectic and bold varieties of flowers in the 1 acre cutting garden. Flowers are sold by the pound. Use your own clippers or borrow a pair of theirs. Bring a bucket and have them fill it with fresh water for you.
IN THE AREA:
Siren Kitchen and Bar Griswold Inn Weekend Kitchen, a kitchen shop specializing in fine cooking accoutrements, vintage housewares,
and letterpress printing.
While you’re there, shop the stand for vegetables they grow in the adjacent fields including tomatoes, melons, and pumpkins; fruits from their orchards in Deep River; and additional produce and honey from local farms.
Winter Caplanson
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Graceful Acres
645 Coldbrook Road, South Glastonbury PYO at this organic flower farm opens in mid-July, picking is available on weekends only. PYO flowers are priced by weight. Look for a great array of botanicals including zinnias, stock, dara, calendula, sunflowers, statice, and celosia. This farm offers a flower CSA share. Bouquets are also available at the honor-system stand, July – September 7am-7pm every day.
IN THE AREA: Crystal Ridge Winery Hops on the Hill Farm Brewery Joseph Preli Winery Robb’s Farm Ice Cream Sayulita Mexican Restaurant
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Graceful54 Acres by Winter Caplanson
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by James Lucchesi Winter Caplanson photos CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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Mmmargaritas… deliciously punchy, citrus forward, and synonymous with summertime! Adding any of a multitude of beautiful seasonal fruits to this classic cocktail is by no means reinventing the wheel. However, by grilling those fruits, you’re in creative territory adding depth to the flavor of your libations by caramelizing the natural sugars.
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Stone fruits, pineapple, and even oranges work exceptionally well. At The Whelk, in Westport, our hybrid margarita features grilled plums with tart hibiscus and lime juice. The result is refreshing, yet deep and moody.
THE WHELK’S
Grilled Plum Margarita
I toss the plums with agave nectar then grill at a relatively high temperature to render all the sugar in and on the fruit, while sealing in the natural juices to prevent the plums from drying out. Don’t have the grill hot? Broiling or hitting with a blow torch works as well!
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The grilled plums are then macerated in a sweetened hibiscus tea, shaken with tequila and citrus, and strained. A dash of orange blossom water is added for floral roundness, but touch of Triple Sec or an expressed orange twist would be equally good. Our beverage program is elevated yet approachable, while still remaining familiar and true to the nature of the cocktail we are embellishing. Our refreshing Grilled Plum Margarita fits the bill! Here’s our recipe:
INGREDIENTS (Makes 2) 4oz Tequila 1 Plum 1 oz Lime Juice 1oz Hibiscus sweet tea* 1/2 oz Agave Halve the plum and remove pit. Toss fruit with half of the agave, reserving half for later. Broil or grill plum halves. In a glass or shaker, muddle cooked plum with remaining agave. Add tequila, lime, hibiscus tea and ice. Shake or stir and strain over ice. *To make Hibiscus sweet tea, add to a saucepan: 1oz dried Hibiscus flowers, 8oz sugar, and 16 oz water. Bring all ingredients to a boil then let cool for 30 minutes. Strain. Refrigerate until ready to use. CT FOOD & FARM / SUMMER 2021
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The grilled plums
are then macerated in a sweetened hibiscus tea, shaken with tequila and citrus, and strained.
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Grilled Mango Habanero Margarita
TEQUILA RIO'S
At Wethersfield’s Tequila Rio Mexican Cantina, guests may be seated literally feet from the banks of the Connecticut River, with panoramic views. Tacos, tostadas, quesadillas, the freshest seafood, and juicy steaks are all prepared with Mexican flair. Manager Christopher Lazich says a customer favorite cocktail is the Mango Habanero Margarita, with its garnish of grilled mango. Chris offers this advice for grilling mangos: “Select firmer, less ripe mangos. Those past their prime will not work well with grilling. Peel and cut into ‘football’ shapes, or half spheres. For impressive grill marks, place mangos down firmly on the grill, sear, and then rotate 90° to get crisscrossing grill marks.” When ready to garnish, skewer mango with lime, orange, or even a sliced habanero and gently place on rim of glass. If you like a salted rim, rub a slice of lime around the rim then place the glass rim down onto a plate with salt. (Salt like a pro: at Tequila Rio, they use Tajín Clásico Seasoning which is made with chili pepper, lime and sea salt.) Next place ice in a glass, pour the drink, and add your grilled mango garnish.
INGREDIENTS (Makes 1) 1 1/2 oz Reposado 3/4 oz Mezcal 3/4 oz Mango purée 1/4 oz Lime juice 1/4 oz Simple syrup 1/2 oz Lime juice Combine, shake or stir and strain over ice.
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HORSESHOE TAVERNE’S
Grilled Watermelon Margarita At Horseshoe Taverne in Durham, the Grilled Watermelon Margarita turns heads.
INGREDIENTS (Makes 1) 1 oz Midori 3 oz Espolon Silver Tequila 1 oz Fresh watermelon juice 1 oz Cointreau 2 oz Sweet and sour mix* Splash of fresh lime juice Combine, shake or stir and strain over ice. Garnish with grilled watermelon, salted rim is optional! *To make sweet and sour mix: Place 1/2 cup water and 1/2 cup sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook until sugar is completely dissolved, then add 1/2 cup lemon juice and 1/2 cup lime juice. Refrigerate until ready to use.
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This Grilled Watermelon M
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Margarita
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turns heads.
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In Litchfield, At the Corner builds their Grilled Pineapple Margarita around grilled pineapple infused tequila.
1 1/2 oz Silver tequila infused with grilled pineapple* 1/2 oz Cointreau 2 oz Sweet and sour mix (recipe above) 1 oz Fresh pineapple juice Pour all ingredients into a shaker with ice, shake vigorously for 15 seconds, pour over fresh ice. Garnish with fresh grilled pineapple, pineapple leaves, and a fresh lime wedge *To make pineapple infused tequila: grill pineapple wedges, then pour silver tequila to cover, let infuse for 24 hrs.
Don’t have the grill hot? Broiling or hitting with a blow torch works as well!
AT THE CORNER’S
Grilled Pineapple Margarita
INGREDIENTS (Makes 1)
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e w o P
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ered
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S
ourdough is special to Frank Andrews and his step son Max DeMusis.
There is awe in both men’s voice as they talk about the starter they use for the slow ferments for their dough. Their passion is fueled in part by its flavor — the way the sourdough pie has more texture and is easier to digest — but their love for the dough goes deeper than that. There is something about the constant feeding and care of the starter that connects them to the long history of pizza-making and seems to remind them that at its most fundamental, making food is about sustaining life. “It’s part of us,” Andrews says of the process.
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...at its most fundamental, making food is about sustaining life.
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This is fitting as sustaining life is also at the heart of the partnership between Andrews and DeMusis.
But shortly after the business launched, Andrews had life-threatening health problems.
In 2009 Andrews started Frank Andrews Mobile Kitchen after being displaced from a longtime job at a phone company. He was inspired to start the Mobile Kitchen by his lifelong passion for cooking. “I built an Italianstyle pizza oven in the backyard. It was a project of love,” he says. “We had people over 50, 75 at a time. And the idea came, ‘Gee, you should start making pizza and selling it.’”
First he had a heart attack and eventually had to have coronary bypass surgery, then his kidneys stopped functioning properly and he began dialysis. Around the same time, DeMusis was completing his college degree. Initially he planned on becoming a teacher, but fell in love with the world of pizza, a food he says is in his blood. His grandmother lived upstairs from Pepe’s in New Haven,
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His grandmother lived upstairs from Pepe’s in New Haven, and while studying abroad in Italy he worked with pizzaiolos who taught him old world technique.
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and while studying abroad in Italy he worked with pizzaiolos who taught him old world technique. Back home, DeMusis began helping out with his stepdad’s business while Andrews’ health deteriorated. Though DeMusis was initially just pitching in, he felt the call of the mobile kitchen and the connection with local farmers and the community. “When we started doing the Chester Market, there was just something about going out there on a Sunday, and having all the people around and being in this beautiful environment,
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and making that connection with the customers,” he says. DeMusis’ efforts helped keep the business afloat as Andrews’ health deteriorated. When it became clear Andrews would need a kidney transplant, DeMusis wanted to do more. DeMusis’ mother tried to donate her kidney to Andrews but wasn’t compatible. In another instance, Andrews was days away from getting a donor but it fell through. DeMusis stepped in. “I just couldn’t sit here and watch Frank suffer any longer,” says DeMusis, now a co-owner of the business. “He’s always been a mentor to me. My whole life, he’s been like a second father. So I was like, I have to at least see if I’m healthy enough, if I’m compatible.”
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DeMusis’ and Andrews were a match. Four years ago, DeMusis donated one of his kidneys. Andrews has trouble talking about the experience without wiping away tears, but the appreciation and the love he has for his stepson is evident in a recent interview. “Max jumped in to not only save the business, but save my life,” he says. Today, Andrews has a clean bill of health and business is booming with three wood-fired pizza trailers, a specialty food truck soon joining the fleet, and between 8 and 10 employees depending on the time of year. You can find Frank Andrews Mobile Kitchen every Thursday at the
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Durham Farmers’ Market, every Friday at the Madison CT Farmers’ Market and Sundays at the Chester Farmers’ Market. They also make an appearance about twice a month at the Ledyard Farmers’ market. These farmers’ markets help power the ingredients for their food. Whether it’s heirloom tomatoes from Starlight Gardens Farm in Durham or Connecticut-grown basil, the pies are made with ingredients grown in the state. The awe-inspiring pear pie is the company’s best seller, it’s a white pie with poached pear, crumbled
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gorgonzola, smoked bacon, and shredded mozzarella that is topped with local honey. Other popular pies include the beet and goat cheese, and spinach ricotta. They also sell pizza dough, as well as parbaked pizzas that are partially baked then sold to customers to finish in their own ovens at home. “People will take it home and warm it up, and we give them directions on how to crisp it,” Andrews says. “It’s become a pretty decent part of our business.” In addition to farmer’s markets, the company does a lot of catering. While
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the majority of events were cancelled last year, there’s an onslaught of rescheduled and new events this year. “People are really looking to do events and have parties because they missed the whole season last year,” DeMusis says. Of course, as people emerge from the pandemic gloom, many are feeling a renewed lease on life. It’s a feeling both Andrews and DeMusis know well. Four years ago, while in the hospital for the transplant, both DeMusis and Andrews were making calls for the business from their beds. A week after donating his kidney to save his stepfather’s life, DeMusis was back at the Madison Farmers’ market making pizza, and tending the sourdough starter. For both stepdad and son, the experience of sharing a kidney has been life altering.
“
as people emerge from the pandemic gloom, many are feeling a renewed lease on life. It’s a feeling both Andrews and DeMusis know well.
“It’s one of those experiences that just stays with you,” DeMusis says. “For anyone that’s healthy enough to do it, I would totally suggest it because it really changes your life. It gives you a different perspective. If you’re healthy and you can do it and you can save somebody’s life, for me, it’s just a no brainer.”
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by Jessica Porzuczek Winter Caplanson photos
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When we think of colors
produced from the sun’s light we typically think of middle school science and words like spectrum, ultraviolet and infrared. However, in the world of natural plant based dyes, the sun generously gives its heat to the drawing out of pigments. As an artist that began learning about natural dyeing a few years ago, I quickly became smitten. Plants offer us nourishment and healing in so many ways, so to discover yet another aspect of the generosity of plants through an array of stunning colors was an incandescent experience. Combining that experience with the celestial power the sun provides is nothing short of magic. Coaxing colors from plants is usually done over fire or on the stove top, but solar dyeing is an easy way to extract the rich colors that plants can provide us by using the ubiquitous and cost free heat of the sun. It is easy, fun, and can be done on the go with friends and little ones. Collecting textiles and carrying out the dyeing process can be folded into a day trip, staycation or ocean getaway. I can’t think of a better beach accessory than a jar of plant based color slowly brewing by your side. There are many plants that take well to solar dyeing. One of my favorites is the simple, classic beauty of the marigold. Found in all garden nurseries and often in our own pots and veggie gardens, the marigold (depending on the variety) can produce and array of lovely yellows and greens. For this solar dye I chose the Fireball variety of marigold from my local nursery because I love the intense color it provides. I purchased some vintage linen napkins from a local thrift shop and grabbed a Mason jar that held last year’s tomatoes for winter consumption.
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My process is simple: 1. Prep the fiber. (Instructions can be found later in this article.) 2. Place 15-20 fresh marigold flowers in the Mason jar. Add more flowers if you want to intensify the color. My jar had around 30 because I enjoy vivid color. 3. Fill the jar with water, making sure that all flowers are below the water line to avoid mold. Rain water is a great choice because it is “soft” and does not contain minerals that can interfere with the uptake of dye. 4. Place the sealed jar out in direct sun all day for several days. When you begin to see the water change color in the first or second day, add your fibers. Depending on how pale or deep you want your color to be, leave the jar in direct sun for at least a week to ten days. The less time in the sun, the softer the color. My jar was in the direct sun for ten days or so. Note – if you are dealing with clouds at the outset, feel free to add some hot water from your kettle to jump start the process. 5. Be sure to check in with your jar each day to see how the color is intensifying and to gently tip and shake the jar to keep the flowers, fibers and pigment flowing evenly. 6. After you have achieved your desired color, remove the fibers from the jar and hang them for a few days to cure. Then wash gently with washing soda or a gentle detergent like Woolite to fix the color. Note – essentially what you are creating is a ferment, so it is natural for the jar to be a bit smelly at the end of the process. 7. Enjoy your linens in your home for years to come. When they need to be cleaned only use gentle detergents. Hand wash or use the gentle cycle on your washing machine.
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“P 98
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f o rt
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it ca ptur es a
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and a season.”
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What fibers to use and how to prep them:
To successfully dye with plants you must use natural fibers. Synthetic fibers will not grab the pigment at the molecular level. Therefore, natural fibers like cotton, linen, wool and silk are a must. Prepping fibers for natural dyeing can be complex. But for our beginning purposes start simple. STEP ONE: Put your fiber through warm, gentle wash with washing soda or a delicate detergent like Woolite in your machine. STEP TWO: As an extra step that can make colors more clear, long lasting in light and washing is a simple alum bath. This process is called mordanting and allows the fibers to accept the color better. Alum is easy to find and can be purchased in the spice section of the grocery store. Estimate the weight of the fabric you are dyeing (see the alum to fiber ratio below) add alum and enough water in a stove top pot to allow your fabric to swim freely. Creating a bath for your fiber. Heat the water to 120 -140°F and dissolve your alum in the water. After fully dissolved add your fabric and stir frequently. After 30 minutes or so turn the heat off and let your fabric steep for about 24 hours with the lid on. After, you can add your fibers to the solar dye jar wet or let them dry and add them at a later date. NOTE - Step two is preferred but optional. The better prepped, cleaner and more free of detergents and chemicals the fiber is, the better it will take and hold color.
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Alum Ratio
The amount of alum used to mordant is usually 12% of the weight of the fiber or WOF. Roughly 1 scant Tablespoon for 100 grams of fiber. Note that you can go up to 20% WOF, or 1 Tablespoon + 1 teaspoon per 100 grams of fiber. More mordant can result in deeper shades. It’s up to what your preference is regarding intensity of color.
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Colorfastness
The color will fade in time and that’s ok. Part of the magic of natural dyeing is it captures a moment and a season. This is the season when the plant offers us her gifts, take in this season knowing it will shift and change. Not holding onto the color so tightly allows us to appreciate all the hues it will become as it defuses. Plus, you can always re-dye your fibers in the coming years to give them new vibrancy and life. Transformations upon transformations are possible. Note – keep your fibers out of long term sun exposure to keep your color longer. If the fibers you have dyed are wearable, scarves etc., be sure to wash them separately from your other clothing, especially in the first few washes.
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For those that want to step into more advanced natural dyeing there are many publications, online resources and videos that are great places to begin your dyeing journey. (see suggestions below) My best advice at the outset is that the simplest recipes, ingredients and instructions make for the most satisfying beginnings. You have plenty of time to become a chemist brew witch of great skill if that’s what you are after. That is a learning journey that takes research and trial and error. For now, start small and start simple. And above all, delight in the process. Two years into my own dyeing journey, I am still tinkering and learning as I go but the constant draw for me is the presence of magical plant brews that gift me their color. The marigold dyed linens create a rich and vibrant table setting and what can be more rewarding than to pair them with food I have grown in the garden. Respectfully harvested food and pigment - all gifts of the yard – all a celebration of the season. As with any creative process, natural dye outcomes are often unpredictable but I find that the making is more rewarding. I am often surprised by the results and find myself grateful to be present with the process of engaging with fibers and plants that feels ancient and full of ancestral connections. Let us all offer an immense and special thanks to our plant kin. They would get by without us, but not us without them. Creativity born of gratitude is the most fulfilling and regenerative kind. Collect the plants, catch the sun and enjoy.
R The Maiwa Guide to Natural Dyes R Botanical Colors R The Modern Natural Dyer: A Comprehensive Guide
A FEW OF MY FAVORITE DYEING RESOURCES:
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to Dyeing Silk, Wool, Linen and Cotton at Home by Kristine Vejar
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About the author:
JESSICA PORZUCZEK is a Connecticut artist and educator. She has a background in painting and drawing. Her current work is predominately in the medium of social practice, collaborative community action, human/plant match making and relationship with the natural world.
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Cooking with
Junk Food
I have learned to love cooking with junk food. I love the challenge. I love the economics. I love the end results.
by Chef Ben Dubow Katie Pinette photos
By junk food, I don’t mean Cheez-its and Oreos, but rather the foods we buy that end up in the trash because we don’t use them fully or fast enough or frugally. Cooking frugally is both a necessary skill for most of the world, and a motivator for innovation and creativity in the kitchen. Only in our time and place can we justify throwing out as much usable food as we do. Beet greens? Cauliflower trim? Less-than-perfect produce?
All trash.
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“I have learned TO LOVE COOKING WITH junk food. I LOVE the challenge. I LOVE the economics. I LOVE the end results.
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Professionally, I am a disciplined chef, always cognizant of food cost, reducing waste, sustainability, and using every ingredient to its maximum potential. In the traditional French kitchen, this is the task and art of the garde manger or chef de partie; in today’s modern kitchen, this is often the task of the executive or sous chef. A few turning radishes? Pickle them. A half lobster leftover from a special? A chilled lobster mousse appetizer special (2 portions at $16 each). But as an amateur home chef (amateur, coming from the root in Latin for “out of love” -- we are all amateurs when we cook at home), I am more aspirational than disciplined. When I shop I totally intend on cooking every night, dishes full of fresh proteins and locally sourced vegetables. I’m sure I will use that small container of crème fraiche and definitely need to buy the two-for-one fresh carrots. Now, if you are like me, the refrigerator becomes a collector of half-used, well-pasttheir-prime produce and other ingredients. Wilted herbs, softening carrots, slightly mushy peppers, more brown bananas than I can possibly use in banana bread. And then I throw those items out. Waste of money, waste of time, waste of ingredients that could have had a glorious future, and now are just junk food. Trash. Garbage. As both a professional and amateur, I am committed to sustainability. Tail-to-nose butchery, use everything, including the “junk food” that normally ends up in trash.
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So one Saturday morning, I looked in my fridge. I had some soft wrinkly grapes, pasttheir-prime softening carrots and their wilting greens. Also a package of radishes that were getting a little slimy, but nothing that a cold water bath couldn’t fix. I also had some leftover mashed potatoes, asparagus stalks (I had already eaten the tender tips for dinner last night), half a cucumber, dry and turning fast, a half-onion, a less-than-stellar Cora Cora orange, some wilted spinach and a bunch of wilted herbs (basil, parsley, cilantro). A quick run to the store, and I picked up some of my favorite “junk fish”: a whole porgy (scup) and a hake steak. By junk fish, I only mean that we don’t normally value them as center-of-the-plate stars. They aren’t the expensive salmons, swordfish, tuna, cod, haddock or sea bass that we prefer. When fishing, we often throw them back. When shopping, we pass them by. In restaurants, we dismiss them. Junk fish, junk food. Time to create a menu -- all created from the random and past-their-prime ingredients I happened to have on-hand, most of which would get thrown out before my next grocery shopping. One important note -- the point is not to replicate my dishes. You can’t. You will have different random “junk foods” to work with. But I want you to be inspired by these dishes. “Oh, you mean I can roast grapes and bring new life to them?” “Carrot greens don’t need to be thrown out?” etc. etc.
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“IF YOU ARE LIKE ME,
THE REFRIGERATOR BECOMES A COLLECTOR OF HALF-USED, WELL-PAST-THEIR-PRIME PRODUCE AND OTHER INGREDIENTS... 114
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My Ingredients: ● CARROTS kind of soft and beginning to turn ●
CARROT GREENS normally I throw away, but they are full of goodness and flavor
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HALF AN ONION destined for trash
● RADISH a bit slimy, greens very slimy; need a cold-water bath ●
RADISH GREENS see above
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WILTED SPINACH very wilted
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PARSLEY wilted and dry
● CILANTRO wilted and a bit slimy, need to pick around to get the good stuff ● HAKE bought fresh, but kind of a “junk fish” ●
PORGY see above
● ASPARAGUS ENDS the woody ends, left over from last night’s dinner when I roasted the tender stalks ● GRAPES soft, some mold growth, wrinkling ● ORANGE left out on the counter too long, soft, slight mold on the rind, but not penetrating
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HALF A BOX OF MATZAH CRACKERS leftover from Passover
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LEFTOVER MASHED POTATOES likely to sit in my fridge for 2 weeks and then get thrown out
● CUCUMBER half, kind of drying out ● EGGS always on hand ●
HALF A STALE BAGUETTE toasted and made into bread crumbs in my food processor
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SALT & PEPPER part of my well-stocked pantry
● SEASONINGS part of my well-stocked pantry ●
EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL part of my well-stocked pantry
● GARLIC part of my well-stocked pantry ● BUTTER part of my well-stocked pantry ●
TOMATO PASTE have a tube
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COCONUT MILK half a can
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RED WINE VINEGAR part of my well-stocked pantry
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1 ½ LEMONS they had seen better days, mold removed
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Tips for Cooking with Junk Food
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1. COOK BY METHOD - don’t worry about recipes. Learn cooking methods. Honestly, once you know how to sauté one thing, you know how to sauté 1000 things. And then when you realize that sautéing and stir frying are, in their essence, the same -- now you are cooking globally. Learn your basic methods, develop a palette for what tastes good, trust your instincts. 2. GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND - not sure if you can trim that mold off a piece of cheese and still eat it? Need to verify that beet greens are edible? Not sure what one does with carrot top greens? Google it! We have quicker access to more information from our phones than the majority of people in history have had in their lifetimes. Use it to your advantage.
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3. HAVE A WELL-STOCKED PANTRY - olive oils, salt, pepper, seasonings, a box of prepared stock, soy sauce, maybe a can of coconut milk. All of these can be added to the “junk food” in your fridge, to help make some great meals. Keep a basic well-stocked pantry, and you will always be able to make something delicious. 4. HAVE FUN IN THE KITCHEN - don’t worry about making mistakes or get stuck on the idea that every meal needs to be a masterpiece. Have fun, take risks. If everything fails, order a pizza. 5. INVOLVE YOUR FRIENDS - invite them over and let them know they will be enjoying a junk food dinner. Encourage them to bring their own “secret junk food ingredients.” Cook together. Make it fun. Make it memorable. Make it social.
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MENU Chilled Asparagus & Cucumber Soup I made this dish entirely in the blender. Blanch the asparagus ends. Then into the blender with some of the blanching water (which is now an asparagus flavored stock). Blend with olive oil, salt and pepper. Add a handful of spinach -- it will lock in the color. Add the cucumber. Blend until smooth and velvety. Add some coconut milk and blend until smooth. Adjust the seasoning. Chill and then garnish with olive oil, radish slices, maybe some sour cream if you have it.
acid likecourse lemon or white wine. Terms crash
PORGY a small salt-water fish, generally little commercial value, but tasty and very sustainable.
HAKE in the cod and haddock family, but eaten much less often in the United States (so not over-fished). In Europe, often marketed as “merluza” and highly prized for fish n chips and other dishes requiring flaky white fish. A good sustainable alternative to Atlantic cod or haddock. COURT BOUILLON a flavored cooking liquid, used for poaching. Almost always includes an
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CHEF DE PARTIE a line cook or line chef in a French kitchen
GASTRIQUE essentially, a sweet and sour sauce, often using fruit and vinegar SALSA VERDE a “green sauce” BLANCH to partially cook a food (usually vegetables) in rolling heavily salted boiling water and the often shocked in an ice bath. Locks in color and flavor and makes your vegetables look beautiful.
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“Cooking fruga
IS BOTH A NECESSARY SKILL F FOR INNOVATION AND CREATI
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ally
FOR MOST OF THE WORLD, AND A MOTIVATOR IVITY IN THE KITCHEN.
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Shallow-Poached Hake With roasted grape gastrique, Cara Cara orange supremes, crispy potato cake & evoo To shallow poach, use a sauté pan with either sloped sides or straight sides. Fill with water (or any liquid) enough that it will come just shy of covering the item you are poaching. By adding acid (lemon, white wine, even some vinegar), along with a heavy three-finger pinch of kosher salt, a few bay leaves and peppercorns, you will have the basics of court bouillon for poaching liquid. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Place the fish in the poaching liquid and allow to cook until the fish is half to three-quarters of the way cooked. Flip the fish and allow it to finish cooking. Take it off the heat and let it rest a few minutes before plating. To make the gastrique, I pick through the grapes and get rid of moldy ones -- all others make the cut. Toss them with olive oil, salt and pepper. Add a generous amount of red wine vinegar, or whatever kind you have. Optional:
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a pinch of sugar. Roast low and slow (250-275 degrees if you are patient, 300-325 if you are less so) until the grapes “break” and you have a nice roasted grape sauce. Peel the orange and cut the flesh away in nice little slices, leaving behind the pith and connective stuff. If this is too fussy, simply cut the orange up how you desire. Mix an egg or two into the mashed potatoes. Form into patties. Dust in flour, then dip in milk (or even better, buttermilk), then coat with bread crumbs. Place in freezer a few minutes so it all comes together. Then pan-fry until golden brown and hot throughout. You can also finish in the oven if it is getting too brown, but not hot enough. Plate up: place the potato cake down, top with the fish. Spoon the roasted grapes on top, garnish with the oranges. Chop some not-so-fresh fresh herbs and sprinkle on. Serve.
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Pan-Roasted Porgy With carrot & radish green salsa verde, roasted carrot puree, pickled radishes & onions, roasted carrots and caramelized lemons. For the Salsa Verde: in blender, combine cleaned and dried carrot top greens, radish greens, a handful of whatever other herbs you have (in this case, basil, parsley and cilantro), garlic, salt, pepper, a splash of lemon or vinegar, and start to blend on medium. Drizzle in extra virgin olive oil until sauce comes together. Taste and adjust seasonings. Need more salt? Were the greens too bitter? Add some sugar. Taste flat? More lemon or acid. Play with it until it is delicious. For the Roasted Carrot Puree: blanch the carrots. Add to the blender, along with a little of the blanching water. Add a tablespoon or so of tomato paste. Puree until smooth. Mine was too loose and watery, so I broke up and added some matzah crackers. This is a trick from Spanish cooking - Romesco sauce uses stale bread as a thickener. I did the same here with the matzah (you can use any bread or cracker) and it came out great. Taste and adjust seasonings. Pickle the radishes and onions: combine sliced radishes, julienne onions, vinegar, sugar, salt and pickling spice if you have it. Bring to a boil, and turn off. Let sit for as long as you have -- from 30 minutes
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to a couple of hours. Chill and reserve for later use. You can keep these at least 7-10 days in the fridge. For the roasted carrots, cut into mediumsized chunks (or jewels -- take the carrot, slice at 45 degrees, roll 45 degrees, slice again. Continue until carrot is fully cut and you have assorted “jewels”). Season with salt and pepper, toss with olive oil, roast at 350-375 for 10-14 minutes, until tender and slightly charred. On the same tray, place slices of lemon and allow to caramelize. For the fish, with a sharp knife score both sides of the skin. (Be sure to ask your fishmonger to clean and prepare it to be served whole -- should be scaled, cleaned and gilled). Stuff the fish with sliced lemons and herbs and season with salt and pepper. In a cast-iron pan, get butter melting along with some olive oil. When oil and butter are hot, add fish and cook until crispy on both slides, then carefully transfer to the oven to finish at 350 degrees until just cooked through… flesh will be white and flaky. To plate: spoon both sauces onto plate. Top with whole fish. Drizzle with butter and a squeeze of lemon. Garnish with pickled onions, pickled radish, caramelized lemon and roasted carrots.
Enjoy!
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by Ma r yE lle
The Proof is in the Batter: Perfect Poundcakes 129
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The roots
of the pound
cake
are steeped in early 18th century Europe, when just four basic ingredients, butter, flour, sugar and eggs, were crafted into a simple confection that, despite its “Plain Jane” appearance, has withstood the test of “dessert” time. An East Hartford baker however, has updated that centuries-old standard, elevating its signature dense, buttery pedigree with a tweaked secret family recipe and a new cupcake version of the treat at her specialty bakery called “Perfect PoundCakes.” Located at 221 Burnside Avenue in East Hartford, Perfect PoundCakes not only features the traditional plain pound cake “original,” but a host of inventive, contemporary flavored versions ranging from coconut and cookies and cream, to lemon, chocolate chip, and pistachio. And to boost its profile even more in a day and age when desserts are constantly being reinvented, owner and baker Tamika Mitchell has also created her trademarked take on a portable pound cake cupcake, called “PoundCups.” “Cupcakes are in, they are versatile, you can order for a crowd and have enough individual flavors to make everyone happy,” said Mitchell whose delightfully decorated “PoundCups” also come in an extended assortment of playful flavors including “Candyland,” “Confetti,” “Reese’s,” “Red Velvet,” and “Birthday.”
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Mitchell, who works in the state of Connecticut’s comptroller’s office, spends the rest of her time on the baking business that reflects what she calls her “creative” side. The business is a family affair that includes her husband, Chad, their children, J’ala and Ja’Kwon and their respective mothers/grandmothers, Rose and Christine, who together have turned what was once a “cottage industry” in the family kitchen, into a booming baking venture. But the beginnings of the business stem from yet another generation of the family, her husband’s grandmother Amaree, whose melt-in your-mouth pound cakes at family occasions were renowned for their goodness. “The challenge was there was no written down recipe, she just made her pound cakes, never measuring anything and knowing when the batter was right, when the cake was perfectly done, all by sight and smell and feel, not by what was written down on a piece of paper,” Mitchell said. “We would catch bits and pieces of how she made her cakes and then kept experimenting until we had a recipe that tasted like hers.”
“An East Hartford baker however, has updated that centuries-old standard, elevating its signature dense, buttery pedigree with a tweaked secret family recipe and a new cupcake version of the treat.”
Two years ago, as word of her “perfect” pound cakes and “pound cups” began to grow, Mitchell, who received a business degree from Albertus Magnus in New Haven, knew it was time to formalize the venture…but not before she made sure she knew exactly how to do it right. Her resource was the University of Hartford’s Entrepreneurial Center & Women’s Business Center, part of the university’s Barney School of Business. There she was paired with business owner and entrepreneur Jeannette Punsoni Dardenne, co-owner of INGroup Creative and EatIN Connecticut, who is also a business advisor at the center. “This woman is going to be a superstar,” said Punsoni Dardenne about Mitchell’s enthusiasm, ability and willingness to learn. “She was a quick study.” Mitchell said while she learned a lot about the business world from watching her father who was an entrepreneur and business
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“...the beginnings of the business stem from yet another generation of the family, her husband’s grandmother Amalee, whose melt-in your-mouth pound cakes at family occasions were renowned for their goodness.” owner, she knew times had changed and she needed to learn about doing business today, especially when it came to social media. Dardenne worked with Mitchell not only on using social media in business, but developing a business plan, crafting a strategic direction, determining human resource needs, finances and website content. “Every time I was on the phone with Tamika she was on top of it all, she did her homework,” Punsoni Dardenne said. “I told her if you want to grow your business, you have to do steps one through ten, and she did.” While wiser as a businesswoman whose cakes and PoundCups find their way to more and more restaurant menus, weddings, birthday and special occasions through her pickup, delivery, and shipping choices, Mitchell is steadfast in her basic philosophy, that Perfect PoundCakes’ primary goal is to deliver the best taste possible, dessert that people are proud to serve and happy to savor. “In this day and age when desserts often look more like works of art than something good to eat, my attitude is the proof is in the batter,
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“Perfect PoundCakes primary goal is to deliver the best taste possible, dessert that people are proud to serve and happy to savor.” not the frosting,” she laughed about her pound cake creations that reflect more modern times. “We are considering a second, perhaps pop-up, location given the success so far,” she said about plans for the future. “I think this business was meant to be and as time goes on, I think it we will just keep getting better and better.” Perfect PoundCakes is open Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., Thursday from 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., Friday from 9 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. The University of Hartford’s Entrepreneurial Center & Women’s Business Center, founded in 1985, provides personalized business advising, educational programs, technical assistance, and networking events to new and expanding small businesses in Connecticut. The Center focuses on serving women, minority-owned businesses, and other underserved constituents, specializing in turning ideas into viable businesses and break-even companies into sustainable, profitable, and scalable enterprises.
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“In this day and age when desserts often look more like works of art than something good to eat, my attitude is the proof is in the batter, not the frosting.”
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UNDERGROUND
KITCHEN by Ruth R. Hartunian-Alumbaugh
Jennifer M Albert photos
It was the best $5 lunch in Windham: Maria de los Angeles Garcia’s delicious tamales, burritos, and flautas. Cooking from memory, her authentic recipes delivered a “taste of home” to hungry diners. She delighted in feeding people and bringing them together. But this hidden gem of a culinary experience was an underground kitchen: not licensed, not inspected, and not legal.
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parenting. But her friends at the factory missed her food. They asked if she would make them lunches again, and their rave recommendations led a local school to ask if she would also cook for their staff. Her own little business grew to be her best and most fulfilling employment option as she delivered dishes she cooked at home “under the table.” Illegally. Years ticked by, over a decade, and Maria’s cooking reputation, by word of mouth, grew and brought her to also cook for workers at a university and a hospital and other customers who all took a risk to “hire” her to provide her catering services.
Maria had come here from Mexico in 2000 to care for a relative, met the man she would marry, and found herself living with 14 other immigrants in a three-bedroom apartment. She was not working so she cooked to contribute to the household, making lunches for everyone at no charge. Her roommates insisted they pay her $20 a week, and she found herself with a toe in the water of the food service business. When Maria was hired by a local factory, she met employees from far away, like herself. There was no workers’ union, and no organizational structure that encouraged them to connect. It was in Maria’s nature to want to bring them together, to build friendships and a support system, and to feed them. By her request and with permission from her managers, Maria’s $5 Mexican lunch service was born as she lugged food each day that she had cooked in her home kitchen.
But while Maria cooked and served, she stewed and worried. She was supporting her family with this underground kitchen. What if she was pulled over by a police officer on her way to delivering food? And what if the police officer asked for identification? Maria was an undocumented immigrant. She knew feeding people was putting her in danger of losing everything. The emotional turmoil caused her to feel vulnerable and unable to trust anyone. And then everything changed for Maria de los Angeles Garcia.
The arrival of Maria’s first child marked the end of her time at the factory. Another child, then one more and Maria’s world became one of juggling part time jobs and
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SHE WAS READY TO COME OUT OF THE SHADOWS
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COOKING FROM MEMORY, HER AUTHENTIC RECIPES DELIVERED A “TASTE OF HOME” TO HUNGRY DINERS
School connections Rosie Hernandez and Dianisi Torres encouraged her to attend gatherings at CLiCK, a commercially licensed co-operative kitchen facility in Willimantic that helps launch food businesses. Rosie and Dianisi spoke Spanish to Maria and they had long hired her to provide food and flowers for events. They had Maria’s trust and the timing was right. Maria had just gained legal residency in Connecticut. She was ready to come out of the shadows. She went. At CLiCK, Maria found the support she needed to make her food business legit. She could cook in their commercially licensed
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kitchen. Conversations, with translation from Spanish to English, guided her through forms that needed filling out, inspections, and fees to be paid. These people were rooting for her, even Luigi from the Health Department! A business foundation was built for Maria’s future, just that fast. Gone were the sleepless nights and fear that she would be turned in by the people around her. No longer did she feel nervous, scared, or stressed about interactions with people in her attempts to feed her own family while feeding others. “I am safe, calm and at peace. I can confidently deliver food anywhere. And I
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AND THEN EVERYTHING CHANGED FOR MARIA DE LOS ANGELES GARCIA.
can be paid legally without fear or concern. I’m not hiding or living in fear,” she explains. CLiCK staff have been helping Maria with establishing an online presence and navigating the waters of technology to further bring her business to the public. She is dreaming of a REAL food truck to serve her customers with, not her own older vehicle that she currently uses to transport and to serve her food from. Established in 2016: Angeles Mexican Food. Above board at last. Maria says that because of CLiCK, she can “reclaim her house where there were once vats of rice, beans and tortillas. And my children don’t smell like food anymore,” she laughs. Maria invites us all to her table, and we are grateful that she can now do so without fear, guilt, or shame. CLiCK’s mission is GROW, COOK, SHARE to maintain and grow a local food network and help small business culinary entrepreneurs, local farms, and community unite. They offer a commercially licensed cooperative kitchen for incubator businesses.
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