Connecticut Food & Farm Magazine, Winter 2021, Volume 22 by Connecticut Food and Farm

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CAPTURE CREATIVE CONNECTICUT FOOD AND FARM

PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY FOR THE AGRICULTURAL AND FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRIES

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in this issue

SHERKAAN INDIAN STREET FOOD

KRISTIN L.WOLFE

HOMEMADE HERBAL FACIALS

GENA GOLAS

OLD TRACTORS

JENNIFER LAVOIE

COTTAGE FOOD BUSINESSES

ERICA BUEHLER

GASTROPARK:

TIME TO GATHER & GRAZE

KRISTIN L.WOLFE

MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE BOMBS

JULI MANCINI

BRINGING THE FARMERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MARKET ONLINE

ALLYSON ANGELINI

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6 24 36 52 64 80 94

WINTER 2021 | VOLUME 22

FROM LAST SNOW TO BUD BREAK

TAP THAT SAP

WINTER CAPLANSON

BREAD PUDDING

AMY S. WHITE

BOURBON & BUBBLES

JEROME P. DAIGNEAULT

LEVERAGING UP:

THE HOSPITALITY COLLECTIVE

BEN DUBOW

A WHOLE NEW WORLD OF BAKING

MARILYNN S. TURNER

IN SEASON NOW

CHEF TOM KALDY

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ZOE MADDEN

110 122 134 154 168 186 206

THE

by Allyson Angelini, Full Heart Farm

hen the restaurants first closed in midMarch 2020 due to the pandemic, our first reaction as farmers was to reach out to the chefs we had been growing produce for and see how we could help. No one knew how long the shutdown would last, but it was clear after a few phone calls that chefs needed a way to sell food. A few days later, as growers experienced a drop in wholesale sales, we came to understand that farmers would also need a new way to sell their products. At the same time, we were fielding dozens of inquiries from consumers in search of a safe way to access quality food. The solution was clear to us, we needed to move swiftly to

Winter Caplanson photos

develop a platform to support the local food economy and provide safe food access to members of our community. The Farm Collective, an online farmers’ market, was born in under a week and sold out of most items within 5 minutes of launching. What started with about a dozen producers, quickly grew to include more than three dozen local farmers and food makers including restaurants, bakeries, and caterers. At first, it was “harder to get spinach from The Collective than tickets to a rock concert,” as one customer put it, but 10 months in, supply has grown to meet demand, and the selection has expanded to include most grocery basics. The Farm Collective simplifies

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STONEWALL APIARY

BROAD BROOK ACRES

FULL HEART FARM

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BROAD BROOK ACRES

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CATO CORNER FARM

CRAFTSMAN CLIFF ROASTERS

the farmers’ market experience for both producers and customers. For the farmers and chefs, it removes the risk by allowing them to harvest or make exactly what is needed to fill orders, with no waste. It saves them the time and staffing needed to set up and man a booth for the duration of a

market day. “The Full Heart Farm Collective helped get our products into the hands of new customers at a time that has been uncertain and unstable for small food producers. We are excited to grow with it and stoked to be in such good company among the other producers,” says Callah Racine of Tiny Acre Farm,

which grows microgreens and flowers. For the customers, it’s even more simple. Ordering is open online from Sunday through Tuesday at noon, for curbside pick-up at Full Heart Farm in Ledyard on Friday or Saturday morning.

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we needed to move swiftly to develop a platform to support the local food economy and provide safe food access to members

TINYCT ACRE FARM FOODANDFARM. COM

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BROAD BROOK13 ACRES

What customers say

• NO RUSHING – when you pre-order online there’s no racing to the market at opening to ensure you get the best selection, because it’s all harvested to order. • NO WAITING – let’s face it, standing in line at multiple farmers’ market stalls can be an enjoyable way to chat with friends and neighbors, but not when you’re 6’ apart in the rain. With curbside delivery you are in and out! • NO WEATHER – sure the farmers’ market is picturesque on a bright sunny day, but in the pouring rain or sweltering heat, it’s nice to grab your groceries without leaving your car. • NO CASH – pay for all your groceries with one simple credit card transaction! • MAKE A PLAN – when you have 2 days to put together an order, it’s easier to make sure that you grab that bag of coffee you’re almost out of or pick up some honey for your friend who isn’t feeling well. • SUPPORT 30+ SMALL FOOD BUSINESSES – with every farmer and chef cited, it’s easy to see exactly where your dollars are going! PODUNK POPCORN 14

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TERRA FIRMA FARM

SCOTTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S YANKEE FARMER

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FULL HEART FARM

CRAFTSMAN CLIFF ROASTERS

We’re really proud of the diversity of quality products we offer. Here’s some of what keeps The Farm Collective’s customers coming back: • LOCAL BLOOMS – from bright spring tulips through evergreen wreaths, Tiny Acre Farm, Sunstone Farm and Full Heart Farm harvest and assemble a selection of the season’s best flowers for decorating homes and gifting to friends.

• OYSTERS + SEAFOOD – with Mystic Oysters raised by the CT Cultured Oyster Farm and J+R Scallops’ selection of fresh seafood, there’s a taste of the ocean here. • COFFEE + CACAO – organically grown, fair trade beans roasted with a chef’s eye for flavor Craftsman Cliff Roasters are the perfect way to both start and end a day.

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17 FARM FULL HEART

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lude more c in to w re g ly quick farmers l a c lo n e z o d than three including rs e k a m d o o f d an ries, and e k a b , ts n ra u resta caterers.

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19 SEACOAST MUSHROOMS

ZEST FRESH PASTRY

• FRUIT + VEGETABLES – Long after the frost we are still enjoying Scott’s Yankee Farmer local apples and cranberries from Killingworth Cranberry - CT’s only commercial cranberry farm. Himmelstein Farm has an ample supply of winter squash and Full Heart Farm grows vegetables year-round in their unheated high tunnels. • MICROGREENS + MUSHROOMS – Tiny Acre Farm offers a full assortment of their specialty microgreens to garnish nearly any meal and Seacoast Mushrooms offers everything from shiitakes to lions mane mushrooms. • MEAT – Broad Brook Acres, Red Head Beef, Sunstone Farm, and Yankee Chicken Co. ensure we have a consistent selection of beef, pork, and chicken. • CHEESE + EGGS + DAIRY – our fridges are full of Terra Firma Farm milk, flavored milks, and yogurts, along with Joe’s Eggs and Cato Corner cheese. Buttercup Farm offers their sea salt

flavored butter and Farmtrue has their full selection of ghee. • FLOUR + BAKED GOODS – Still River Farm’s organically grown flour is perfect for baking, but if you’re not up for time in the kitchen, Albert’s Bakery creates a rotating selection of sourdough loaves, Deke’s Bagels makes artisan bagels, and Zest Fresh Pastry offers a full assortment of baked goods for breakfast, snack, and dessert. For low-carb treats, look no further than Puckett’s Pantry’s sugarfree cheesecakes and mousse. • PREPARED FOODS – For ready-to-eat meals, La Belle Aurore offers a new menu each week, A Culinary Experience puts together curated grazing boards, and Rebeka Fresh Pasta sells fresh noodles. • JUST FOR FUN – from Podunk Popcorn and Stonewall Apiary wildflower honey, to Pickily’s honey-sweetened pickles and Gracious Gourmet’s jams + preserves… there’s always something new and special from CT’s chefs and farmers!

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1 PUCKETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 2PANTRY

...

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deliver .this is a platform that will continue to after big for consumers and producers long

Although we created The Farm Collective to meet the unique challenges of the pandemic, this is a platform that will continue to deliver big for consumers and producers long after this tumultuous time has passed. Online ordering for The Farm Collective runs Sunday through Tuesday at noon, with curbside pick-up at Full Heart Farm in Ledyard on Friday or Saturday morning.

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23FARM FULL HEART

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by Juli Mancini Winter Caplanson photos

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“ But a little chocolate now and then doesn’t hurt.

- Charles M. Schultz Hand made with solid chocolate, these decadent Mexican hot chocolate bombs produce an unrivaled cup of rich cocoa. Hot chocolate bombs are hollow hand crafted chocolate spheres, placed in a mug with a pourover of hot milk or coffee. Bombs are packed with surprise confections, slowly exposed as the chocolate melts from the heat of the liquid. Mexican hot chocolate bombs are a fine place to start, especially if you love a spicy twist, but personalize your own creations to taste. It’s simple to marble the chocolate for a really beautiful look. Simply package in cello-bags or stack in Mason jars and you have the perfect Valentine gift - unexpected, entertaining, and delectable.

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Makes 3 bombs - each bomb serves 2

Equipment:  Six cavity 2.5 diameter semi-sphere silicone candy mold  Six cavity muffin tin  NutriBullet or hand wand mixer (or use a hand whisk)  Two 8oz. Mason jars    

Selection of 1/4”- 1” food grade paint brushes 12” skillet 2 small spoons Sharp knife

Note: Make sure all equipment is clean and dry before starting. Buff silicone molds with a paper towel to create maximum shine on chocolate. You can use any high quality chocolate chips or bars. We used Chocolove which offers ruby chocolate in addition to white and semi-sweet.

Ingredients:            CT FOODANDFARM.COM

1/2 c. good quality white chocolate - hand chipped into small pieces 1/2 c. good quality semi-sweet - hand chipped into small pieces 1/2 c. good quality ruby chocolate - hand chipped into small pieces 3 Tbsp. sweetened condensed milk 1/4 teaspoon almond extract 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon ground clove 3 pinches cayenne to taste 1 3/4 cup whole milk per bomb 29

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1. Fill skillet with 1 inch of water and bring to a boil and then turn off.

6. Use the knife to clean edges and refrigerate for a few more minutes.

2. Lay silicone mold over the muffin tin so the bottoms of the mold cavities aren’t pressed against a flat surface. It should fit perfectly without constraint on any part of the semisphere. If you don’t own a muffin tin, create a tin foil armature to support outside of the mold.

7. When chocolate has hardened, pop semispheres out of molds.

3. Place white, ruby & dark chocolate in three different Mason jars and place jars in hot water. 4. Stir chocolate continuously with spoon until melted and brush-able. It’s important not to heat over 120 degrees or your chocolate will develop a dull finish when de-molded. Remove jars from water and move to your workspace with molds. 5. Brush the molds alternately with chocolates. Make sure to keep brushes separate so as to not cross contaminate. Experiment with blending techniques and mixing of different chocolates to create marbling. After an ample coating, clear away excess chocolate on the surface of the mold using knife. Refrigerate for 10 minutes. When solidified, brush another coat. Be sure to get some nice thick edges to prevent breakage when de-molding.

8. In a small bowl, Mix together sweetened condensed milk, spices and extracts and set aside. 9. Empty water from skillet, pat dry and heat skillet on stove just to warm the surface, then turn off heat. 10. Melt the edge of one semi-sphere on the surface of the warm skillet, quickly, just to create a clean edge. Then fill with sweetened condensed milk mixture. 11. Repeat melting second semi-sphere edge quickly on the hot skillet and adhere to the top of first semi-sphere. The melted chocolate will completely seal the contents inside the bomb. 12. Place bomb in a cup and pour-over with hot milk or coffee. 13. Pour contents in a NutriBullet or use a hand wand and blend quickly to create a froth. If you have neither, briskly mix with a hand whisk. Garnish with marshmallows or a splash of liquor.

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Child friendly production tip: Instead of melting the chocolate

over scalding water, heat up your tea kettle and pour hot water into the 6 compartment muffin tin and place silicone mold on top. Make sure the mold edges are resting on the top of the pan. Pour in chocolate chips to fill the molds half way and wait for them to melt. Follow by letting your kids brush the chocolate up to the edges of the mold. Refrigerate and pop semi-spheres out of mold.

What is ruby chocolate? In 2017, ruby chocolate was unveiled

as the 4th addition to the chocolate family of white, milk and dark varieties. Named after its natural pink hue, ruby chocolate is derived from unfermented ruby cacao beans and possesses acidic and berry flavor profiles. In 2018, ruby chocolate first launched in Japan and is now available in the US. While it’s not easy to find, the fruity flavor is a beautiful addition to any dessert.

Once you’ve mastered this recipe,

get creative with other flavors:

Wondermade brand boozy fireball or bourbon marshmallows: use to top your cup of cocoa or cut up 2 marshmallows and place inside the bomb. Crushed honeycomb candy: add 2 tablespoons to the contents of the bomb Double Chocolate: add 1 tablespoon of unsweetened baking chocolate + 1 tablespoon cane sugar to the contents of the bomb. Coop’s Micro Creamery salted caramel sauce: add 1 tablespoon to the contents of the bomb Craftsman Cliff’s Roasters finely ground coffee: Add 1 tablespoon of finely ground CT FOODANDFARM.COM

coffee to the contents of the bomb. Will settle to the bottom of your cocoa like Turkish coffee. Top with a splash of Bailey’s Irish Cream or any creamy liqueur, whiskey, or tequila to taste. Storage tips: Keep bombs in a cool dark dry place. Store in an airtight bag or capped Mason jar. Depending on bomb contents, shelf-life could vary but chocolate is always best when fresh. Looking to purchase premade bombs? Here are a handful of Connecticut confectioners from which you can buy online: Nadya’s Hot Chocolate Bombs, Munson’s, Castle Hill Chocolate, and Serendipity Sweets. 35

Gastropark: Time to Gather and Graze BY KRISTIN L.WOLFE / WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

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Adults canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just leave the parks to the kids, can they? And why should they? Actually, Gastropark, the newly opened outdoor food space in West Hartford, has been created with many in mind. From families who just need to get outside after so many months inside, to colleagues who want a fresh, socially-distanced place to enjoy lunch, or friends who want to hang outdoors at night by a fire with delicious treats and a beer, Gastropark is evolving into the food destination Tate Norden, the founder and managing director, hoped it would become. It took over three years to come to fruition, but it could not be a better time to open a space that brings people together around food, and yet do so in a safe, creative, and collaborative way.

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through food, you can unite, empower, and celebrate community.

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Norden knows what it is like to be at the helm of a creative new concept. Have you seen Iron & Grain, the mobile bar and grill? Run out of a “Viking,” a 1959 vintage Chevy, the catering truck began in 2015 and was the first food truck in Connecticut with a liquor license. So, you could say

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bringing people together outdoors around delicious food, drink, and entertainment is in Norden’s wheelhouse. His partners, business director Shari Vikmanis, and beverage director James Maleck, officially opened Gastropark on New Park Avenue in October.

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The buzz has been great, and I love that it provides a space where a whole food ecosystem exists in one place 44

With a regular rotation of food trucks and so much more, Norden and his team are thrilled to offer those he calls intrepreneurs the space to try out their business without a locked in, long-term commitment. He says, “they can be a part of a food destination and yet not tethered to one spot; they can have a creative business, and in a flexible nimble way.” Along with the offerings outside, the building on site--taking shape by the day--will have a few indoor tables, restrooms, and a meeting space. For those sheltering inside--safely of course--Small State Provisions will be there to serve you their outstanding sourdough and small-batch granola. Just on the scene since 2019, Small State Provisions delivers their carby perfections to your door, but will now have a space at the Gastropark. “I’m super excited to open [there]. I love the vision they have, and I see the potential in our community. The buzz has been great, and I love that it provides a space where a whole food ecosystem exists in one place,” said Kevin Masse, owner and head baker at SSP.

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Gastropark

is evolving into a food destination On a chilly December day, one of the food trucks satisfying bellies was La Mesa, a mother and son duo cranking out bold, and tasty flavors of Latin cuisine. We spoke about the pandemic and just how difficult it has been to stay in business. Owner Alba Garay mentioned how thankful she was for new places like Gastropark. “Otherwise,” she says, “we might have had to close for the season.” Having to watch so many businesses close is a thought not far from Garay’s mind. “It’s expensive just to operate and be open,” she adds. At least at a place like Gastropark, they get continued exposure through the space’s regular rotation.

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The Gastropark

is where Norden and his team believe, through food, “you can unite, empower, and celebrate community.” So stay tuned to the park’s calendar for the truck rotation, seasonal pop-ups, local vendors and activities and entertainment like dance parties, yoga, music, and more.

With trucks being added every week, here are just some who’ve rolled into the park since opening in the fall:

Sultan Kebab Fuego Picante Baba Ghanoush Bear’s Smokehouse Taphouse Street Kitchen Christie Caters Brasato Samba’s Cuisine La Mesa Iron & Grain 50

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FRESH

·BUS

FRO

INESSES·

M THE

CH T I K

BY ERICA BUEHLER “Made with love” is never truer than when freshly baked sourdough is delivered to your door by the very hands that baked it; especially when it comes straight from the baker’s own kitchen. And, with a little bit of maneuvering, most anyone can launch a venture creating and selling goodies from the comfort of their home. It’s known as a Cottage Food Operation: a regulated system designed to let at home cooks begin their journey toward a full-time business right from their own kitchens…a business incubator, if you will. With a state-defined yearly revenue cap of $25,000, operating a cottage food business in Connecticut isn’t enough to sustain someone entirely, but it does get your foot in the door for a future in food. One catch: despite licenses being regulated by the state, each town gets the final say on whether it allows cottage food operations. Luckily for Kevin Masse, owner and baker at Small State Provisions, West Hartford is one such town.

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Masse, who began his cottage food business in late 2019, is not new to baking. “I’ve been baking and cooking since I was 12-years-old,” he says. But focusing so heavily on building his own business while profiting from his craft is relatively new. A member of the brand strategy and advertising world by day, Masse has worked for companies like the FeedFeed and Bake From Scratch magazine, so he’s never been far from food. But 2019 is the year he decided to explore what baking as an official business could look like. Residing in West Hartford proved to be fortuitous for Masse, who liked the idea of baking and selling from his own kitchen. “Before me, someone moved to the area who wanted to run a food business out of their home, so they worked with the town to pass legislation,” says Masse of West Hartford allowing Cottage Food Operations. “This licensing is designed to allow people to start [their business] in their homes with the goal of building and transitioning to a commercial business—[states] don’t want people to set up shop full-time in their home kitchens.”

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Does this mean we can all start whipping up homemade creations for profit? Not exactly. “There are restrictions on what can or cannot be made in or sold from your home,” says Masse, noting that production is limited to prepared food perceived to be low-risk for food-related illness...no meats or cooked vegetables, for example. What does that leave, you ask? A pretty interesting, albeit short, list. “The list is kind of strange and covers a wide variety of things,” laughs Masse, whose products of choice for Small State Provisions include organic sourdough breads and olive oil granola. But other options from the approved Cottage Food list include candies and confections, fruit pies (except for pumpkin), flavored vinegars, popcorn, and cotton candy, among others. Setting his sights beyond just fresh bread, Masse decided to offer a totally organic product—that is, one that uses 100% organic flour, locally sourced ingredients when possible, and no commercial yeast. Imagine the tantalizing taste of sourdough, fig and walnut bread, or rosemary and olive oil focaccia…hear the crispy crunch of granola, made with extra virgin olive oil and dark maple syrup. Plus, he says, “on Sundays only, I make a sourdough baguette that is cold fermented for 36 hours.” Masse initially promoted Small State Provisions via Instagram, but making the switch to Shopify for online ordering and offering delivery throughout West Hartford helped sales skyrocket, especially during a pandemic. “I’ve always been fully digital for my transactions and offered contactless delivery,” he says. Masse notes his in-town delivery service has been so popular that he created a subscription program specifically for it, allowing bread-lovers to sign up for eight weeks of guaranteed bread deliveries. But don’t fret: for those out-of-towners looking to get their hands on the goods, pickup is available to anyone outside of the delivery zone. And speaking of zones, acquiring a zoning permit is something to consider if you’re planning to begin your own Cottage Food Operation. As for home pickup, whether that is allowed is determined on a case-by-case basis, and you would also need a special exception permit for this. 56

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Now that Masse’s business has been off and running for a little over a year, he says his goal is all about evolving. “Last spring, I was making 8-10 deliveries per day. Now, it’s 20-25.” But don’t assume Masse’s day starts and ends with just the bread and granola. “I’m very much trying to use Small State Provisions to give back to the community— to make it a better place.” Masse is part of the Healing Meals Community Project, an organization delivering organic meals to families facing acute health crises in the greater Hartford area. “So far, I’ve raised $1,600 for Healing Meals, using Small State Provisions to do good. I’ve also partnered in the past with philanthropic projects at ACLU CT, Interval House, and Bear’s Smokehouse.” Masse was also a recipient of a $500 grant from King Arthur Flour, with the charge of baking and donating 90 loaves of bread for Loaves & Fishes Ministries, which then delivered that bread to individuals in need.

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Occasionally, Masse partners with other small CT businesses as well. “I connected with Kristen Hurt-Carty [through an event benefiting Interval House] who is a florist and co-owner of Feather & Bloom in Suffield. She and I are partnering up to do a Bread and Blooms program, where we will allow West Hartford customers to add weekly flowers to their order. I think whenever businesses can collaborate together it’s a great opportunity.” And what lies on the horizon? “Right now I’m in the process of opening a brickand-mortar location in Gastro Park on New Park Avenue in West Hartford. Tate Norden, its driving force, became one of my customers and we connected that way. There’s a brand fit between what he’s doing and the brand I’m trying to build. It’s going to be a really small bakery but it will allow me to have a commercial operation so I won’t be limited to any of the cottage food regulations anymore. I’ll be part of an up-and-coming food scene.” Small State Provisions bakes on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday. Bread is ordered in advance. Free delivery is offered in West Hartford, and pick-up is available for those outside the area.

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Tips for Diving into Cottage Food Operations RESEARCH YOUR TOWN

Remember: Not all towns allow cottage food businesses. “The best first step is to check your local town resources,” says Masse.

READ THE RULES

Connecticut conveniently has a page under the Department of Consumer Protection outlining all things cottage food operations. “I found the manual pretty user-friendly,” says Masse. “The first thing I did was form an LLC for the business.”

CALCULATE YOUR COSTS

Operating a cottage food business requires a pretty substantial start-up cost; make sure you’re prepared for that, plus additional fees for ramping up your business.

GET YOUR LICENSE(S)

You’ll need a license from the State of Connecticut in order to begin your cottage food operation, but certain towns or homes may also require zoning permits.

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For

BY JENNIFER LAVOIE

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love & Money

KATIE PINETTE PHOTOS

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t is a rare opportunity to catch a farmer with some time on their hands. An unexpected heavy rainstorm provided an opportunity for Matt Pogson and his father, James (Skip) Pogson of Mountain View Farm, to talk to me about why they choose to use older farm tractors on their farm instead of newer machines. The ability for smaller farms to fix their own equipment contributes heartily to keeping their farms afloat. Old tractors are simple machines and do the work they are intended to do. Matt is a tractor whisperer of sorts…on the Farmhall 460, Matt can listen for a bearing and know when it needs to be fixed before it goes down. That keen sense and knowledge keeps the family’s farm tractors working, saving precious time and money. The old tractors are repairable on the farm. There’s no need for a farmer to load up his tractor to bring to the nearest authorized dealer and lose any time in the field. The higher-tech farm tractors can be much faster and more efficient, but most newer equipment requires a download fix. Smaller farms, such a Mountain View Farm, do not have the luxury like big corporate farms to waste money or time fixing a newer tractor. “We have to run the equipment,” explained Matt. “It’s really as simple as that.”

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Mountain View Farm, located on Route 10 in Farmington, CT, is known for its sweet corn and also sells a wide variety of produce, straw, rye and hay. They have three farm stands located throughout Farmington. The farm was established in 1921 by Theodore (Tater) Hanson. In the early 1970,s, Skip and his wife Loretta took over the farm which is now a little over 100 acres. Skip and Loretta currently run the farm with their children, Matt, Jennifer, Lauren and Taylor. A 1951 Farmhall H tractor, that Loretta still uses daily, and a Farmhall 460, were the first two tractors that the Pogsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s used on the farm. When Matt was only seven, he rebuilt the 460 with his father and when he was a bit older, they rebuilt the Farmhall H. Matt is the mechanic on the farm as well as a high school Tech-ed teacher. He has always been interested in fixing cars and tractors, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s his love of farming that keeps him so closely tied to the farm.

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Old tractors are simple machines and do the work they are intended to do.

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After the initial two Farmhalls; two John Deere tractors, a 2950 and 2955 from the early 1990s were added, and are the two most modern tractors they own. Matt said if bought today, those tractors would cost $100,000. Both John Deere tractors hold their value because no one wants to get rid of them. The older John Deere’s have circuit boards in the dashboards, but you can get rid of the circuit boards and still run the tractor. After the 1990s, manufacturers started putting computers into the tractors, which comes with digital rights management software — making it nearly impossible for the farmer to repair themselves. In the late 1990s, to improve air quality, the EPA set standards to limit emissions from particular diesel engines used in agriculture and construction. Skip and Matt pointed out that the EPA standards set in the newer machines require cool down and cycling times that eat up farming time. Since 2009, mainly in California, there has been an incentive program for farmers to replace their old tractors, with cleaner technology, by destroying them, so the polluting engines won’t reappear somewhere else. Still, as Skip explained, “A lot of the older tractors are brought in from the Midwest without their engines and a lot of guys are still buying the old tractors and putting new engines in them because the bodies are great too.”

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A sense of nostalgia emanates from Skip and Matt when discussing the tractors used on their farm. Some of their tractors were bought from other local farmers that were no longer farming. A lot of the tractors went to scrap in the 2000s because iron prices were at their peak. Matt bemused that when some of these old farmers passed, their families didn’t realize the value of the parts, so they turned to scrap. Matt has established a lot of contacts to help him find parts. He scours websites, such as Yesterday’s Tractor, or hunts salvage stores. Most engine parts are usually available because they haven’t changed much in the older tractors, so finding a part for an older tractor is relatively easy. However, some parts can be elusive. For example, cultivators have long big springs, and they don’t make those anymore. Skip said, “They are like hens’ teeth — you keep looking for those parts and just keep hanging them on the wall where you can get at them when you need them.”

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Scarcity in some of the older tractors are also a factor because people use them for tractor pulls. Matt explained that Farmhall made a low-gear tractor which is very popular for tractor pulls. He pointed out that the McCormick International No 91 combine he owns is a rarity because these machines are highly coveted for demolition derbies. The combine looks like a prehistoric metal dinosaur, with its gaping mouth, rotating blades, and rust colored shell, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no wonder they are used in a battle of survival, crashing into each other at ponderously low speeds. Over time, Matt has slowly accumulated a collection of tractors including the very popular Massy Ferguson 35. The 35 had no engine, so he went to New Hampshire and bought a 4-cylinder gas engine for it. A Massey 50 was recently added as well. Matt pointed out that he strives to keep the farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tractor fleet up and running, with each one having its own implement. It allows his parents to keep using that implement without having to attach and remove it from a tractor, which can be very difficult or even dangerous to do.

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The Massey-Ferguson 35 lives with a rototiller on it. The International 784 is a 4-cylnder diesel tractor and is perfect for a planter. The International 284 is a small tractor, equivalent to a Cub tractor, and is used for mowing. The 2955 John Deere is a bigger tractor and has a lot of power for baling, and the 2950 John Deere is a multi-use tractor, used for spraying, smooth harrowing, wheel harrowing, baling, and raking. The Pogsons are able to farm successfully and profitably in part because of their workable fleet of tractors, each with a specific job, and without the expensive high-tech machines. Skip took me to see all the tractors in the fields. Located down a long farm road along the edge of the tree line and a little brook, the tractors rested gracefully in a small, newly mowed meadow. The Massey-Ferguson 35 sat closest to the farm road, with weeds tangling up through the engine, twisting underneath the seat to the tiller in the back, with the last tendrils rooting back into the ground. Skip noticed I languished behind, looking at the forlorn tractor. He knew what I was thinking and casually remarked, “That still runs. It’s one of our best tractors — we’re just waiting for a part to come in.”

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bout

face homemade herbal facials with iSankofa skin care BY GENA GOLAS ANNA SAWIN PHOTOS

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In the New Year,

especially this year, transformative change may mean taking more time for yourself, creating at home, and embracing simplification… including self-care in the form of homemade herbal facials. Meet Sahra Deer, owner of iSankofa Skin Care in Willimantic. Sahra is an expert in natural, organic, and local whole-body care. Her company’s headto-toe product line includes soaps, body butters, deodorants, and hair care, made in small batches with ingredients sourced from farms, apiaries, orchards, and purveyors throughout Connecticut. While natural, native, food-grade ingredients are a part of Sahra’s business model (“If you can’t eat it, you probably shouldn’t put it on your skin,” she says) at the heart of her business is change. Sahra started creating skin products for her family each time she saw something that “needed to be fixed.” She formulated deodorant for herself. During the period where she was breastfeeding her newborn daughter, she was concerned about both of their exposure to the harmful ingredients in the commercial product she was buying from the supermarket. She created body butter and soap that calmed her daughter’s eczema when medicine could not. She developed a facial line to help with her daughter’s teenage acne. Making a change in her family’s skin care habits helped address many of the real-life issues they encountered. When it was time to launch her business and choose a name, honoring change was a natural choice. Sankofa is a concept originating from West Africa, embodied by a forward-facing bird with its head turned backwards, reaching for an egg on its back with its beak; the egg symbolizes the future. The Sankofa bird represents the idea that you have to look into your past in order to have a prosperous future. The bird cannot move forward into its future with the egg without turning and looking back and recognizing the past. The Sankofa bird is a timely symbol for change in the New Year: let’s look back upon the challenges of the past year, learn from them, and carry that knowledge into 2021. CT FOODANDFARM.COM

DIY

facial masque

First, choose a clay. Sahra says: “Choosing a clay is a totally personal experience. It all depends on you, the needs you may have for the day, and what is going on with your skin at that time.”

Some suggestions are: French Green Clay or Bentonite Clay - Highly absorbent and amazing for oily skin. Kaolin Clay or French Pink Clay - Super gentle, and great purifiers while not being incredibly drying. Great for sensitive or more mature/dry skin. Rhassoul Clay - Rich in magnesium and potassium which has been known to help with the elasticity of the skin and beneficial for healing acne. It has a gritty texture so mixing it with another clay like Kaolin or Bentonite Clay is recommended. Find these clays at a local health food store such as the Willimantic Food Co-op, or buy pre-mixed in iSankofa’s Detox, Metamorphosis Gold, or Refresh Facial Masques.

Preparing and mixing masques:

For a little “extra love” add a few drops of desired essential oil and 1 oz grain alcohol to a spritzer bottle. Shake well then lightly mist over your clays to give an extra healing benefit and to make them fragrant. Be sure to lightly mist--you do not want to saturate the clay at this point. Place sifted clay in a clean and dry glass or ceramic container as these are inert and will avoid cross contamination, as might happen from any residue left on a vessel made from plastic or another material. When you are ready to make and use your masque: in a glass or ceramic bowl, mix the clay with water to a mousse-like texture. You could alternately use aloe vera water, rose water, or organic facial floral mist to add the benefit of these herbs to the masque. You may also choose to add a small amount of apple cider vinegar, to balance the skin, and a little local raw honey, which is antibacterial and antimicrobial. Apply masque to your face and let set for 15 minutes. Rinse with warm water.

To ready the clays for mixing, place 1 cup of desired clays (choose one or mix them) into a medium-grade strainer and sift the clay through to get out any large pieces. Sahra says, “This is key: to have a fine texture on your precious face.”

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Papaya

Seed Scrub

Papayas are rich in alpha hydroxy acids, and are known to have anti-aging properties. The enzymes assist in new cell generation, and the seeds have antiseptic properties. 1 papaya 1 Tbsp. organic coconut oil

Cut a papaya in half and scoop out the seeds, along with any of the center fruit that comes out with it. Place 2 Tbsp. of the seeds into a blender, and freeze the rest of the seeds for another use. Blend the seeds with some of the center of the papaya and 1 Tbsp. organic coconut oil until you have a thick puree. Apply to face and let set for 15 minutes. Rinse with warm water.

his is key: to have a fine texture on your precious face.â&#x20AC;?â&#x20AC;? CT FOODANDFARM.COM

Choosing a clay is a totally

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personal experience.

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This recipe can also be taken a step further to make a hydrating toner. 90

Floral Hydrosol and toner Hydrosols are produced by distilling leaves, fruits, flowers, and other plant materials. (In the recipe below, Sahra explains how to â&#x20AC;&#x153;hackâ&#x20AC;? a home still!) Hydrosol delivers a plumping, balancing quality to the skin. Spritz your face 3 to 4 times a day to replenish your skin, use it to remove makeup, or apply it to balance your skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pH after cleansing. The dried flowers called for can be sourced locally from Homestead Herb Farm in Oneco, CT or online at Mountain Rose Herbs.

Hydrosol Yield: 8-10oz 8 cups fresh or dried flowers (roses, lavender, or hibiscus. Use organic or food-grade to be certain no harsh chemicals are added) 3-5 quarts of spring or distilled water 6-8 trays of ice cubes or crushed ice

Place your medium glass bowl in the center of a pot wide enough to allow room around the sides for the flower petals and water to be added.

Materials: Large pot (a canning or large soup pot will do)

Place your small glass bowl inside the medium bowl. Place your pot lid upside down on the pot. Bring the mixture to a rolling boil, then lower heat to a simmer. Place 3 trays of ice cubes in a Ziploc bag and place on the pot lid. This has now created your own home distillery. The steam will rise and, once it reaches the cold pot lid, it will condense and the hydrosol will drip into the smaller bowl. Once the ice has melted, repeat with the remaining ice cubes. This process should take about an hour. Turn off the heat and let everything cool, then gently remove bowls from the pot.

Medium and small heat-safe glass bowls 1 large Ziploc bag 2oz sterilized spritzer bottle (amber is best, as some hydrosols are sensitive to light) 12oz sterilized Mason jar Funnel To sterilize your spritzer bottle and mason jars, follow standard canning practices: Put jars into a pot filled with water, then bring everything to a rolling boil for a minimum of 5 minutes. Carefully remove the jars from the hot water with a pair of tongs, then turn over to dry. Once fully cool and dry, the jars will be ready for the completed hydrosol.

Place petals and water around the bowl, so that they reach about halfway up the side of the bowl.

Use the funnel to pour your hydrosol into the spritzer bottle. Remaining hydrosol can be stored in the mason jar. Refrigerate and use within a month.

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Toner

To make the toner, strain the flowers from the water mixture through cheesecloth, into a glass or ceramic bowl. Place 2 oz. of this water in a 4 oz. sterilized pump bottle. Add 1 oz. alcohol-free witch hazel and ½ oz. aloe water. Shake well. Immediately after you wash, put a few pumps of toner onto a cotton pad and gently wipe over your face to lift any last traces of dirt, grime and impurities from your pores.

“If you can’t eat it, you probably shouldn’t put it on your skin...”

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TOTALLY B

& TOTALLY D by

Kris

tin L

. Wo l f e

SHERKAAN INDIAN STREET FOO

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BINDAAS

DELICIOUS:

OD IS A MUST TOUR OF FLAVOR Win

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apla er C

nson photos

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ne of the questions I get asked often as a food writer is which is your favorite food? You know, it really is next to impossible to choose. But, what I can tell you is that Indian food is one of very few cuisines that put me under a spell. And I’m sure I’ve only scratched the surface with my experiences of it. It is just so multi-dimensional in terms of flavor, texture, aroma, and oh my goodness the colors. It is as if you’ve unlocked a jewelry box of precious gems. There is no such thing as a one dimensional item in Indian cuisine, from what I’ve tasted. Even the rice, which could otherwise be so bland, so one note, is often perfumed with jasmine or cardamom. Everything stands out. And yet, big bold flavors, just like big, bold personalities, can be intimidating. Sherkaan in all its ‘bindass-ery’ is bridging the gap between the old and the new, the known and unknown, and the familiar and the unfamiliar of Central and Southern Indian food.

bindaas: CT FOODANDFARM.COM

THE COOLEST, CHILL

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Chef Bryan Burke, and Co-owners of New Haven’s Sherkaan Indian Street Food Ankit Harpaldas and Sona Ramchandani, understand that many people might need to ease into a menu as diverse as an Indian food one can be. Even in an eclectic city like New Haven, with a massive international population, there could be preconceived notions of what a certain food should look and/or taste like. Sherkaan, which means “Tiger King” in Hindi, pays homage to traditions, keeping them beautifully recognizable and yet adds a modern accent or twist. When you walk into Sherkaan, however, you will be transported to the electricity of an Indian city; the intoxicating aromas swirl and you can sense the whir of bicycles pedaling by. But here, at least, the bicycles are safely hanging from the ceiling. Harpaldas explained, “Our goal was to break certain stigmas around Indian restaurants; like Indian food is always spicy, etc. As you can see from the decor, presentation, etc., it’s very different from your typical white table cloth Indian joint. From the music to the silverware, everything is very thought out. Indian culture is very different today than what the average person thinks of it, based on their experiences here in this country.”

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So, small bites or chaats, are one of the most enticing ways to tease a palate and draw in those otherwise new to the cuisine. They are sort of like an amuse bouche but not nearly as bougie. They are little plates of small bites you can pop in your mouth and immediately get a sense of the culture. In a lot of Sherkaan’s Street Eats or Chaats, they take many Western comfort foods, like a hot dog, and inject a serious dose of Indian flavor and texture. For example, take the chaat dog. It might look like an American hot dog at first, but it’s made with a veggie or lamb kebab, pomegranate raita, garlic chili chutney and cilantro. Every note on the flavor spectrum comes to mind from spicy and sweet to crunchy and tangy, etc. When asked about his favorite chaat, Harpaldas noted, “Dahi Puri for sure. It feels like it’s just an explosion of flavor and different textures packed into such a small vessel.” Sherkaan’s dahi puri, is a fine crispy shell filled with chickpeas, aloo (potatoes), yogurt, sev (chickpea noodles), and green and tamarind chutney. There’s a reason it is one of the most popular forms of street food. It’s like you’ve been launched back into childhood and each little shell is a pocket full of surprises. The okra fries are another chaat which many unfamiliar with the menu could find themselves gravitating towards. Don’t worry, this is not Auntie Jane’s slimy okra we all pretended to eat. These may as well be McDonald’s french fries. They are crispy to a salty goodness, and you will not just have one. As a matter of

“

When you walk into Sherkaan you will be transported to the electricity of an Indian city... 102

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DOSA: it’s kinda like a crèpe

ALOO: spiced potatoes

PURI: fried flour shell

SEV: a fine and crispy chickpea noodle

CHAATS: chaats are a savory snack or appetizer

PICKLES: not like western vinegar based pickles. these are fruits and veggies preserved in mustard oil & salt

PARATHA: unleavened flatbread, layered with ghee, griddled, flakey

PANEER: aka indian farmers cheese, this is a fresh cheese with a firm and spongy body, made from cow milk

MASALA: indian spice blends made for various dishes, ex: garam, tikka, chaat

RAITAS: popular yogurt based sauce

CHUTNEYS: kinda like a dip

TOTALLY BINDAAS: hindi slang for chill, the coolest

JHAKAAS: hindi slang for awesome

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fact, one member of my family pretty much ate the entire plate meant to be shared. Kissed with masala and lemon, so bright and salty, we instantly forgave her for eating them all.

“

“Street food is exciting,” explains Harpaldas…..[and] the cuisine is just as vast and diverse as the country is. You can debate how certain dishes are supposed to be made forever but the same dish could have 20 different versions! The endless options are what excites us. Everyone sells chicken tikka masala which is great, but we didn’t want to be that restaurant. We want to rotate our menu constantly to show the world what India’s street scene has to offer, then share our version of it.”

Sherkaan Indian Street Food has just entered its second year, and the neighbors are talking... Sherkaan also offers a mesmerizing array of classic dishes many are familiar with that come out steaming hot, fully aromatic, and beautifully served. From palak paneer and butter chicken to tikka masala and dal there are plenty of

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the solid dishes many western palates have been privy too for years. The dosas (crepes), come sailing through the air to the table like mini airplanes. The dum biryani (basmati rice with chicken or goat and peas and butternut squash) is served in a giant cast iron pot covered and sealed by puffy naan. Like capturing a photo from the streets mid-snap, each dish is bold and unforgettable. Even the cocktails and desserts are remarkable, each using color, dried fruits or florals to infuse and accent the creation. Sherkaan Indian Street Food has just entered its second year, and the neighbors are talking. Harpaldas and his team are proud. “The response has been beyond great because people have seen our effort. This isn’t your typical curry house. Your mouth won’t be on fire after every dish you eat; rather, you will taste every flavor that was used in that dish.” The first time I was there, just two months after it opened, a diner at the bar said he had already visited ten times. The next time I went, for their popular weekend brunch, a young woman waiting outside said her goal was to try every single item on the menu.

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T WIN

V OR S

BY CHEF TOM KALDY

W O

O N S A N E

E A R’ S BEST FL JESSICA COTE PHOTOS

dith Sitwell wrote, “Winter is the time for comfort, for good food, and warmth.” Personally, during winter months, all I want is to be comfortable and warm while eating great food. In this time, we think about the “stick to your ribs” food…root vegetables, roasts, and soups. But there are indeed fresh foods in season and being harvested NOW which should be enjoyed at their absolute best! Let’s shine a light on these delicious culinary gems, at this time of year when there is the least of it. Oysters, for example, which lead a very cyclical life. They spawn in the summertime; feed in the fall and winter; and enter dormancy as winter ends and spring nears. Their longest cycle is normalcy, when during the spring and summer months, they continuously pump, filter, and eat. Each season has a profound impact on how the oysters will taste, based on which cycle the oyster is in. During their spawning months, oysters can decrease in size and lose some of that plump character that we hope for. Through the dormancy season, if they survive the frigid water temperatures of southern Connecticut, they lack the energy to build upon themselves and once again can lose much of their substantial heartiness.

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There are two seasons that we can appreciate these little jewels at peak texture and flavor. The first would be early summer, after their dormancy and before their spawning season. Many of us adore the opportunity to dine outdoors with a nice glass of, well, anything, perhaps overlooking the water; enjoying the weather and at least a half dozen of these mollusks. But wintertime is the unexpected second season for bountiful harvest of oysters in Southern Connecticut. As the fall turns to winter, oysters are feasting to prepare for the coldest water temperatures (a sign to us that we should be doing the same)! At this time, these morsels of sweetness can truly hit a high note of flavor concentration, complexity, and consistency. Unlike areas to the north, the slightly warmer Connecticut water temperatures allow for a prolonged season for Blue Point, Noank, Copps Island, and other local varieties.

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BUT THERE ARE

FRESH FOODS IN SEASON AND BEING We may not associate these colder months with oysters as we fondly recall the iced-down dozen or two we had six months ago. But not only are these half shell splendors delightful when served raw in January with a seasonal mignonette, they also have enough meatiness now to allow for gentle roasting with a lightly seasoned butter. Be sure to seek out oysters in both peak seasons and enjoy

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them while they reach their characteristic pinnacle.

Bay scallops, and more specifically, Nantucket Bay scallops, are a prized commodity in the winter months here in New England, and frankly the world for that matter. Well-known for their intense sweetness and mild salinity, these petite versions of the more commonly known sea scallops pack

HARVESTED NOW WHICH SHOULD BE

ENJOYED AT THEIR ABSOLUTE BEST!

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a big flavor punch in a small package. Sea scallops can range anywhere from U-4 sizes (under 4 pieces per pound) up to 40-50 counts. Nantucket Bay scallops range more in the 60-100 count range per pound. Available typically from November into March, Nantucket Bays are sought after because of their short season, small fishing radius, low yield, difficulty to fish for, and of course, the immaculate flavor associated with them. During this time of year, many small boats venture out to hand dredge for the local delicacy and bring back their bounty immediately to shore for shucking. Regulations are strict for the fishing season off Nantucket Island. Fishermen are not allowed to go out if the air temperature is below 28 degrees F before 10 am. Also, like many fisheries, catch size is highly monitored and immature scallops must be returned to the waters. Laws like these help prevent overfishing and unnecessary loss. Nantucket Bay scallops are often served in a raw application to showcase their delicate flavor and texture,

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BAY SCALLOPS ARE A PRIZED COMMODITY IN THE WINTER MONTHS HERE IN NEW ENGLAND, AND FRANKLY

THE WORLD FOR THAT MATTER.

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but also can be very briefly sautéed in oil until just beyond raw to gain caramelization from their natural sugars. They can then be finished with a little white wine very simply seasoned butter, fresh herbs, and salt.

Citrus fruits also are at their peak during the winter months even though they are a summertime staple, when their refreshing, acidic, and sweet qualities play their respective roles in culinary use, summery cocktails, and mama’s lemonade. These fruits are typically harvested just before any possible freezing could take place because freezing can be detrimental to both texture and flavor. Luckily, by the time this could take place, the fruit has developed a plethora of natural sugar, high levels of vitamin C, and other vitamins and minerals such as 116

“

TO APPRECIATE THE BEAUTY OF A SNOWFLAKE, IT IS NECESSARY TO STAND OUT IN THE COLD.

”

– ARISTOTLE

B vitamins, potassium, and a variety of phytochemicals. Purchasing citrus in winter has many benefits. The greatest variety of them can be found in our supermarkets then…from Cara Cara Oranges with pretty pink-orange flesh and a delicate berry flavor; to vibrant Meyer Lemons, current darling of the citrus world; and the Minneola Tangelo, a cross between a grapefruit and a tangerine. The winter months also bring dramatic drops in pricing at your local grocer because the fruits need to be harvested in very large quantities. And the health benefits citrus offers are ideal for cold weather months, when our bodies’ immune systems could use additional energy and support. Finally, and quite simply, they are delicious in countless preparations and recipes. CT FOOD & FARM / WINT ER 2021

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GINGER-CITRUS MIGNONETTE/CEVICHE

DRESSING 1 cup rice wine vinegar 2 lemons, zested and juiced 2 oranges, zested and juiced

4 tablespoons finely grated ginger root 1 cup, extremely fine minced shallot 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon local honey Fresh herbs, as desired Mix all ingredients together and either lightly dress raw oysters or marinate bay scallops for ceviche for about 10 minutes.

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BUTTER ROASTED

OYSTERS

Â˝ lb room temperature unsalted butter 1 lemon, juiced and zested 2 anchovy fillets, finely minced 1 large shallot, finely minced 3 oz chopped cooked bacon 1 oz chopped parsley 1 oz chopped chives Â˝ teaspoon kosher salt 3 dashes of Tabasco sauce Black pepper, to taste Panko breadcrumbs, as desired Preheat oven to 450 or use your broiler setting. Soak the anchovy and shallot in the lemon juice and zest for about 15 minutes. By hand, or with a mixer, combine all ingredients and mix well. Place oysters on a pan with a piece of crinkled foil to prevent oysters from tipping over. Add desired amount of the compound butter onto each shucked oyster and top with breadcrumbs as desired. Roast until butter is just melted or broil until light brown color begins to develop. Serve and enjoy promptly.

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Whole New

f World o

aking by Marilynn S. Turner Lisa Nichols photos

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“

k ba

h t i w g n i

w ho l e g

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y l l a e r

e h t t ab o u

e t s ta

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“Whole grains

provide lots of fiber and health benefits, but, for me, baking with whole grains is really about the taste,” says classically trained chef Meg Buchsbaum. Meg cooks cozy in her 1803 Colchester farmhouse, featured in a Hallmark Christmas movie last year. She plans to open her home as a bed and breakfast in the future, and these days is kept busy with her gardens, planting 2600 flower bulbs last fall, her chickens, bees, and renovation projects. And lots of baking with whole grains… “Incorporating whole grains into your baking provides a new flavor profile. There are lots of oils in whole grains, which accounts for their high fat content. People think of whole grain flour as heavy, but you can easily substitute in some white flour to lighten it up.” Meg said.

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Whole grain ﬂours should be kept cool to prevent their oils from turning rancid. They will keep for 1 to 3 months in the refrigerator or 2 to 6 months in the freezer. Meg sources her whole grain flours from King Arthur Baking Company. “I like cooking with buckwheat flour. It has tremendous flavor and makes great pancakes. A good chunk of the baking I do incorporates whole grains. I love to make whole wheat waffles, and I love the flavor of whole-grain bread.”

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Three of Meg’s favorite whole grain baked goods are: buckwheat shortbread, oatmeal cookies, and banana bread. She shares her recipes for these in this piece. “I don’t like to use a lot of sugar in my banana bread,” she said, “but when you eat it, I want you to say, that is good.” Having really ripe bananas is one key to great flavor. “I also use brewed coffee and instant espresso powder. The coffee complements the whole wheat in terms of earthiness and richness.” Meg’s whole grain banana bread has a great crumb and a good texture to it too. It’s not a heavy banana bread. You can eat it as is, or you can toast it, and it makes great French toast. “Shortbread success is all about great butter. You need to use premium butter with high-fat content, like Kerrygold. The combination of the buckwheat along with that butter delivers depth of flavor,” Meg explained. Meg’s oatmeal cookies derive their satisfying texture from oatmeal, whole grain flour, and chunks of nuts, dried cranberries, and pitted dates.

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Happy whole grain baking !

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Buckwheat Shortbread Makes 2 Dozen shortbread wedges – from 2, 9-inch pans Bake 300 degrees INGREDIENTS: 1 cup buckwheat flour 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 sticks salted butter – highest quality – room temperature 1 cup confectioners’ sugar 1 Tbsp vanilla extract DIRECTIONS: 1. Heat oven to 300 degrees. 2. Lightly grease two 9” cake pans or springform pans. 3. In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, combine butter and sugar. Mix until fluffy. 4. Add the extract and flours and mix until combined. 5. Divide the mixture in half and press evenly in the pan. Do not go up the sides. 6. Bake for 35 minutes. 7. Remove from oven and let rest for 5 minutes before sliding out onto parchment paper covering a board. Cut each round into 12 pieces. 8. Let cool on rack before eating.

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r o a p t r i o ng w c n I “

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. ” e l r o p i v a r f l o f new

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Oatmeal Cookies Makes 36 Cookies Bake 375 INGREDIENTS:

DIRECTIONS:

1 cup dried cranberries

1. Heat oven to 375.

1 cup all-purpose flour

2. In a small bowl add the cranberries. Cover with boiling water and let rest for 5 minutes. Strain and reserve 1/3 cup of water and the cranberries.

1 cup whole wheat flour ½ tsp baking soda 1 tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves ¼ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp nutmeg 2 sticks butter – room temp 1 cup granulated sugar 3 eggs

3. In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment add the butter and sugar to the bowl and mix until combined. 4. Add the spices, baking soda and mix to combine. 5. Add the eggs one at a time, and mix slowly until just combined.

¼ cup dates, pitted and coarsely chopped

6. Add the cranberries, nuts, and dates. Mix to combine.

2 cups old fashioned oats

7. Add the oats and mix to combine.

1/3 cup water (reserved from the

8. Add the flours and the reserved water and mix until combined.

cranberries) 1 cup pecans, coarsely chopped

9. On a baking sheet lined with parchment, using a medium ice cream scoop, divide up the cookie dough. Gently press on the cookies until slightly flattened. 10. Bake for 12 -15 minutes until golden brown. Cool on a rack.

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Banana Bread Makes 2 loaves Bake 350

INGREDIENTS: 2 sticks butter, room temp

½ tsp baking soda

1 1/3 cups brown sugar 2 cups whole wheat flour

1 Tbsp instant espresso powder

2 cups all-purpose flour

¼ tsp nutmeg

3 eggs

2 tsp cinnamon

1 Tbsp vanilla extract

2/3 cup brewed black coffee, cooled

¼ tsp almond extract 1 tsp salt

1 Tbsp baking powder

2 cups mashed ripe bananas

DIRECTIONS: 1. Heat oven to 350 degrees, place racks in the middle. 2. In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar until smooth. Add the bananas, spices, extracts, espresso powder, baking soda and powder. Mix to combine. 3. Add one egg at a time until combined. 4. Add 2 cups of the flour – combine. 5. Add coffee and the remaining flour. Mix to combine. 6. Using nonstick spray prepare the two loaf pans. Divide the batter between the two pans and level them out. 7. Bake 40 -50 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean. 8. Cook on a rack before serving.

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veraging Up: The Hospitality Collective

BY BEN DUBOW

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The Hospitality Collective is a group of hospitality professionals committed to helping our industry survive and thrive in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s challenging environment. We do it by investing in small, entrepreneurial restaurants. We provide restaurant coaching and consulting. We run pop-up restaurants and events, and help others to succeed with theirs.

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We're building up the industry, one crazy entrepreneur at a time. Hartfood, our “online, delivering food hall,” based out of Hartford, allows patrons to conquer all of their cravings in one virtual place, and have an order from multiple restaurants delivered right to their front door. We are learning by doing with this “ghost kitchen” model, where all food is prepared to go, and using what we discover to help other restaurateurs focus on creating deliciousness without a significant investment in a brick and mortar presence.

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Sometimes it takes little more than a cold brew coffee and a global crisis -- or pandemic plus unemployment plus too much free time -- to launch something new. And sometimes it works. For this group of seasoned hospitality workers, an impromptu meeting on a hot and windy July morning, sitting socially distanced and masked together, and the ideas started flowing. “What if we could take our passion and experience in hospitality and leverage it to build up others, as well as ourselves? What if instead of creating wealth for already wealthy people, we could help our peers in the trenches develop real careers in this industry?” That was the pitch from the self-appointed pirate captain of this small crew. “What if…”

And from there, The Hospitality Collective was born. 140

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Justin,

the pirate-captain-leader. He had worked every station from dish to line to award-winning mixologist. Now, a managing partner in a successful restaurant.

Tony.

A career hospitality man who now consults with restaurants on technology solutions. He knows how to tie it all together.

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Khalid,

the winsome, smiling, bartender -- part Sam Malone, part dive-bar aficionado. He knows what hospitality takes at its core.

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Sam,

the strong woman of the group -youngest, but able to hold her own, hospitality professional thru and thru, from the host stand, to the bar, to managing the floor, to taking care of you table-side. Plus one hell of a marketer.

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Ben,

second career cook-cum-chef, part time pastor passing along wisdom and escargot, like they should go together.

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Jerome.

Utility middle infielder. Can work the line. Fix an oven. Spin a cocktail. And a thousand other hidden but essential skills. Always ready with a paperclip and a rubber band to save the day.

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David

the accomplished chef -- proven talent from NYC to the Litchfield Hills, a leader and virtuoso in any kitchen he lands in.

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Seven people. Different narratives. But same story. Callouts: The Hospitality Collective. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re building up the industry, one crazy entrepreneur This fall, THC became investors in a couple who had a dream at a time. to start their own restaurant, but were coming up short on the traditional ways to fund it. Born out of this partnership is What if we could take our passion and experience in The Twisted Italian Cafe at Hartfordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Parkville Market. hospitality and leverage it to build up others, as well as ourselves? In 2021, we will launch a professional development coaching network for executive chefs, general managers, and restaurant leaders. We are investing in the future of the hospitality industry -- an industry that has never needed believers more than it does today.

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When two community-minded driven entrepreneurs were unsure if they could reopen their small west-end cafe after COVID, a partnership and investment from THC allowed Fiddleheads Cafe to reopen and fight another day. When fairs and the Big E were all cancelled, THC responded with the pop up â&#x20AC;&#x153;Big West E!â&#x20AC;? restaurant, featuring food and drink inspired by fairs. We demonstrated how to make an event fun while following COVID safety measures.

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Our popular restaurant-focused podcast A Zero’s Journey entertains and educates. In 2021, we will launch a professional development coaching network for executive chefs, general managers, and restaurant leaders. When asked “Wouldn’t it be better to focus on fewer things?” the group laughs. “It is more fun this way, it’s how we think. This kind of energy is what our industry is about.” We are investing in the future of the hospitality industry -- an industry that has never needed believers more than it does today.

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n o b r u o B &

Bubbles by JEROME P. DAIGNEAULT WINTER CAPLANSON photos

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A bubbling flute of Champagne is timeless. And while delicious on its own, it’s a transformative ingredient in drinks. Enter Bourbon & Bubbles cocktails: crisp and bright and boozy, but not too boozy. Bourbon has a traditionally higher proof than other spirits, and the notes work well with bubbles— champagne, prosecco or even sparkling water or ginger beer. When you match lighter spirits with a sparkling wine, sometimes the spirit’s flavor can get lost. Bourbon doesn’t have this problem. Versatile, refreshing, and perfect for any occasion…

here are 3 of Marlborough Tavern’s favo 156

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orite bourbon and bubbly cocktail recipes. CT FOODANDFARM.COM

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1.5 oz Bellis Bourbon .25 oz Wild Moon Botanics Roasted Dandelion Root .5 oz lemon juice .75 oz *clover honey simple syrup Homemade ginger beer (or use Hosmer Mountain Dangerous Ginger Beer) A sprig of basil more basil and lemon slice to garnish Lightly muddle basil in the tumbler portion of your mixing tin set. Two or three â&#x20AC;&#x153;push and turnâ&#x20AC;? moves will do the trick. Add crushed ice to your glass of choice. To the tumbler, add every ingredient except for the ginger beer. Shake very well. Pour over the crushed ice in your glass and lower a mixing spoon into the middle. Pour ginger beer down the spoon so it mixes in from the bottom up. Garnish with lemon slice and basil.

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1.5 Watercure Farm Distillery bourbon .75 oz lemon juice 3 dashes Angostura Bitters 3 dashes Peychaudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bitters Paradise Hills Vineyard Notte di Amore prosecco Lemon twist Add all ingredients except prosecco to a mixing glass. Fill with ice and stir. Strain into a coupe or cocktail glass and lower a mixing spoon into the middle. Add prosecco by pouring gently down your stirring spoon. This ensures that the bubbles do not break and the wine hits from bottom up. Finish with a twist of lemon for aromatics and flavor.

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B a l l l i n aV

A classic riff on a recipe from the Savoy of London Cocktail Book: 1.5 Litchfield vanilla bourbon .25 oz. *simple syrup 1 egg white .25 oz. Wild Moon Chai Spice liqueur 3 dashes Scrappy’s chocolate bitters .5 oz. lemon juice Seltzer water cocoa powder

Pour all ingredients except seltzer into a tin and shake vigorously for at least 15 seconds, until you get a good foamy mixture. Then add ice and shake to chill. Strain into a coupe or cocktail glass and top with seltzer. Garnish with cocoa powder and enjoy! * to make simple syrup - Add ½ C each sugar (or honey) and water to a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Let cool, then pour into a glass jar and seal tightly with a lid. Simple syrup will keep, refrigerated, for about a month.

Click here for more sparkling wine cocktails from some of Connecticut’s best bartenders.

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g n i d d u P bread

sweet or s av o r y

Cozy Comfort Food

by Amy S. White Lisa Nichols photos

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Last spring, when “pandemic”

and “quarantine” were unwelcome novelties in our daily lives, many of us found ourselves getting back to basics in the kitchen. In fact, baking bread, possibly the most basic food of all, was such a lockdown trend that it was not uncommon for grocery store shelves to be lacking flour and yeast, bread’s main two ingredients (the others being water and salt). Here’s the thing, though. Homemade bread, while superior in most ways that matter, is unlike store-bought bread in that it doesn’t contain the preservatives needed to prevent mold and increase shelf life.

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Without those preservatives, a beautiful handmade loaf will last only two or three days at room temperature before getting stale. The good news is that stale bread possesses magical properties of its very own: it is the main ingredient for bread pudding. In fact, food historians trace this humble dish, often referred to as “poor man’s pudding” to the early 11th century when cooks made it to ensure leftover bread was not wasted. These days, bread pudding can be found on many a trendy dessert menu as a cozy comfort food.

...food historians

trace this humble dish,

often referred to as “poor man’s pudding” to the early 11th century... Very simply, bread pudding is made by tearing stale bread into bits, soaking those bits in liquid custard, and baking it. It sounds so plain, but in reality, nothing could be more versatile, as the possibilities for variation are endless. Type of bread. Flavor of custard. Add-in ingredients. Choice of garnish. Serve a sweet bread pudding for dessert, or try a savory one as an entree or side dish. If you’re looking to use up some of that bread you’ve packed into your freezer, look no further. Once you’ve mastered the bread pudding basics, you won’t be able to resist playing around with this deceptively simple blank canvas. We asked Luke Greika, Executive Chef at Manchester’s newly reimagined Bistro on Main, if he would share with us his basic

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These days, bread pudding can be found on many a trendy dessert menu as

a cozy comfort food

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bread pudding recipe, the one he has relied on since he was a cook down south, and multiple versions of which have often popped up on Bistro’s specials menu. A social enterprise of Manchester Area Community Churches (MACC) Charities, Bistro’s mission is to provide transitional culinary training and employment to lowincome wage earners who

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aspire toward a career in the hospitality industry. Looking to expand Bistro’s take-out options during the pandemic, Chef Luke and his chef-interns are partnering with Urban Lodge Brewing Co. which is right around the corner from the restaurant. Using a QR code, visitors to the brewery can order Bistro food to be delivered right to their table.

Likewise, Chef Luke is using Urban Lodge brews in several of the more casual dishes Bistro has on its new menu, like their tomato-ale soup, beer cheese fries, and “Urban Mac and Cheese” – a house favorite made with Urban IPA, grilled chicken, and bacon. He uses Urban Lodge’s “Pop’s Stout” to make Chocolate Stout Bread Pudding, a rich, chocolaty

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version that will remind you of a fudgy brownie. And he also shared with us a savory Cheddar Rosemary Bacon Bread Pudding, perfect for breakfast or as a side dish for braised beef, pulled pork, or pot roast. As you can see from Chef Luke’s creations, sweet or savory, snack or meal, bread pudding is anything but boring. Here are some suggestions for how to do it yourself. First, your bread (or, really, any breadlike baked good) should be stale, as mentioned above, to absorb the liquid ingredients more easily. For savory bread puddings, try sourdough, burger buns, or whole grain loaves. Dessert versions love brioche, panettone, babka, or even donuts. Let the bread soak for at least two hours (overnight in the refrigerator wouldn’t hurt it) in the liquid custard, which is a simple whisk of eggs and heavy cream. The drier your mixture, the drier the pudding will be, so feel free to play with the ratios.

Then there’s the add-ins. Sugar and vanilla are the most traditional for a sweet version. But why stop there? Nuts, chocolate, berries, cocoa powder, cinnamon, peanut butter, hazelnut spread, anything your sweet-tooth desires. Soak raisins in rum and add cinnamon for a riff off cinnamon toast. Swirl in some marshmallows and chocolate chips, sprinkle on some crushed graham crackers, and you have “s’mores” bread pudding. Leave out the sugar and vanilla and add herbs, vegetables, meat, or cheese to make it savory.

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nce you’ve mastered the bread pudding basics, you won’t be able to resist playing around with this

deceptively simple blank canvas.

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Deciding your custom flavor is the hardest part. After that, stir everything together with your soaked bread and bake it. Be sure to serve it warm. You can make it ahead of time; it reheats wonderfully. Adding a garnish that pairs well with your flavor makes for a nice finishing touch. Ice cream and whipped cream are standard, but macerated berries, sweet syrups, chopped herbs, and boozy sauces will make your concoction Insta-worthy. Whatever 2021 may bring, we know that we cannot live on bread alone. Bread pudding, however, that may be another story.

Chef Luke Greika’s

Basic BreadPudding

(serves 4-6) ½ loaf stale white bread, torn into oneinch cubes 4 eggs 1 ½ cups heavy cream ½ cup sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Place bread cubes in a large mixing bowl. Whisk together the eggs, cream, sugar, and vanilla. Pour egg mixture over the bread and mix until well combined. Allow to soak for at least two hours, or overnight. Place in a well-greased baking pan, cover with foil, and bake at 350F for 35-45 minutes, until it has puffed up. Take off the foil and continue to bake for another 10-15 minutes to brown the top. Serve warm with optional garnish.

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cheddar rosemary

Bacon BreadPudding (serves 4-6) ½ loaf stale white bread, torn into oneinch cubes 3 eggs 2 egg yolks 1 cup heavy cream ½ cup cooked bacon, chopped ½ cup shredded cheddar cheese, divided 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary Salt and pepper, to taste

Place bread cubes in a large mixing bowl. Whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and cream. Pour egg mixture over the bread and mix until well combined. Allow to soak for at least two hours, or overnight. Mix in the bacon, 1/3 cup of the cheddar, and rosemary. Place in a wellgreased baking pan, cover with foil, and bake at 350F for 35-45 minutes, until it has puffed up. Take off the foil, sprinkle with remaining cheese, and continue to bake for another 10-15 minutes. Serve warm with optional garnish.

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chocolate stout

BreadPudding (serves 4-6) ½ loaf stale wheat or whole grain bread, torn into one-inch cubes 4 eggs 2 egg yolks 1 ½ cups heavy cream 1 pint Urban Lodge Pop’s Stout 1 cup sugar ½ cup cocoa powder ¾ cups chocolate chips (divided)

Place bread cubes in a large mixing bowl. Whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and cream. Pour egg mixture over the bread and mix until well combined. Allow to soak for at least two hours, or overnight. Meanwhile, place stout, sugar, cocoa powder and ½ cup chocolate chips in a medium saucepan. Place over mediumhigh heat until reduced to a syrupy consistency, then allow to cool. Pour onto the bread and egg mixture and mix until well-combined. Place in a wellgreased baking pan, cover with foil, and bake at 350F for 35-45 minutes, until it has puffed up. Take off the foil, top with remaining ¼ cup chocolate chips, and continue to bake for another 1015 minutes. Serve warm with optional garnish.

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tap that sap MAPLE TH

WAT ER

E F IR ING ST TA ST E O F S P R

BY WINT ER C AP LANSON

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Maple

is the taste of winter giving spring her lead. In late winter, maple trees pull water from the ground and filter it through their roots. This water collects nutrients stored in the tree and provides hydration and nourishment that enable the tree’s growth and rejuvenation as it prepares to leaf out. That’s what we collect when we tap the tree. The sap that comes out of a maple tree isn’t sticky like pine sap and it isn’t amber like syrup. It’s almost entirely water. Sugarmakers will tell you there’s nothing better than drinking fresh sap, or “maple water,” right from the bucket! It has a slight, subtle maple flavor and because it is high in vitamins and minerals, including calcium and potassium, it is viewed as a spring tonic. If you live in or near the woods, you can harvest your own maple sap. All you need is a drill, a tap, and a bucket…you can even whittle your own tap, also called a spile, from sumac wood! In Connecticut, sugaring season usually begins in February and ends when the peepers’ chorus commences. While making maple syrup is a bit of an undertaking, you can revel in the flavor of the season with the sap from just one maple tree, or a gallon purchased from a sugarhouse. Maple sap can be used to brew herbal tea or to make coffee. Add hot sap to a French press, let it steep for a few minutes, then plunge the coffee grounds out. Swap sap for water in any recipe that could use a little sweetness: oatmeal, rice pudding, or in a savory winter squash soup, stew, or curry. Make lemonade or brew ginger beer with it!

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Maple

is the taste of winter giving spring her lead.

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Many breweries throughout New

England have utilized maple sap as a base liquid when brewing their beers. The sweetness is very slight but sap does add a little something earthy, too. Boil maple sap before consuming to kill off any bacteria. Keep sap refrigerated or in a short time it will start to ferment. It freezes well. There are small batch beverage companies using maple sap as a base for flavored soda and drinks. And maple sap beer is totally a thing. Many breweries throughout New England have utilized maple sap as a base liquid when brewing their beers. Some are lucky enough to have access to hundreds of gallons of sap they use to impart a unique sweetness to their seasonal beers.

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At Willimantic Brewing Company, brewer David Wollner has used as little as 6 gallons to upwards of 40 gallons of this winter elixir per batch to enhance some of his lighter style beers. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The ease of use is what makes this an ideal ingredient in the brewing process. If included in the mash, adding sap to milled barley and steeping for an hour, the impact is slight. However, if used in the kettle during a vigorous boil the sugar separates from the liquid through evaporation. This process gives the beer a pronounced and favorable residual sweetness,â&#x20AC;? David instructs.

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Chef Ani Robaina of Ani’s Table incorporates maple sap in recipes that celebrate this moment in the natural year: Farro Porridge

with Maple Stewed Fruit MAKES 4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 2 C farro 6-7 C maple sap, total 1 C dried fruit, roughly chopped (ex: cranberries, figs, apricots, dates, and candied ginger) 1 can whole fat coconut milk – unshaken – with the thick cream at the top Pepita Brittle (see next page) Bring the farro and 4 cups of maple sap to a simmer and cook until the sap has almost

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fully evaporated, stirring occasionally. Be careful not to burn the bottom of the farro. (Can be made a day or 2 ahead.)

TO MAKE THE PORRIDGE: Put 2 cups of maple sap and all the chopped, dried fruit in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a simmer and let simmer for 3 minutes. Add farro, simmer until heated through. Take off the heat and stir in the coconut milk “cream” top. Garnish with pepita brittle.

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TO MAKE THE PEPITA BRITTLE:

...there’s nothing better than drinking fresh sap right from the bucket! TO MAKE THE PORRIDGE 12 oz raw pepitas 4 TB butter 1 tsp Kosher salt 2 tsp preferred seasoning (cinnamon, cayenne, chipotle powder, ginger, smoked paprika, or your own mix) 2 C sugar Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. In a saucepan, melt butter. Stir in pepitas and “toast” them in the butter, about 3

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minutes stirring constantly. Add salt and spice. Stir until well coated. In a separate skillet over medium heat, pour in sugar and stir constantly with a wooden spoon or heat resistant spatula until sugar melts, lumps are gone, and a nice caramel color forms. Take pepita mixture and stir into caramel. Spread evenly over parchment and cool. Break into pieces and store in airtight container.

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Maple Sap Brined Pork Chops INGREDIENTS 4 C maple sap 1 orange, sliced ¼ C dark brown sugar ¼ C Kosher salt 10 peppercorns 4 whole cloves Bring all ingredients to a boil and cook until sugar and salt are dissolved. Cool.

Move to the oven for 1 hour, then take the lid off and keep in the oven until liquid has mostly evaporated. Remove chops to a plate, keep warm. Place the Dutch oven back onto the stove burner, add the ¼ C bourbon and simmer to deglaze the pot, scraping up browned bits on the sides and bottom. Add the ¼ C sap water and butter, stir until incorporated. Serve pan sauce over chops.

When cooled add: 2 double cut pork chops or 4 thin pork chops 5-6 whole sage stems and leaves Leave in brine for 6-12 hours. Remove, rinse well and dry. Cut a slit in thick chops and insert orange slices and sage from the brine. (Alternately, put between 2 thin pork chops and tie with twine or toothpick together.) For the next step, heat oven to 300 F, and you will need: 2 TB olive oil 2 TB bourbon + ¼ C bourbon 2 cups maple sap + ¼ C maple sap 1-2 TB butter In a heavy Dutch oven, heat olive oil, add chops and sear well on both sides to a nice, deep golden color. Add 2 TB bourbon and reduce by half. Add enough maple sap to come up half way on the chops. Bring to a simmer on the stove and cover.

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as a base liquid when brewing their beers.

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Callouts: Maple is the taste of winter giving spring her lead. Sugarmakers will tell you thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing better than drinking fresh sap right from the bucket! In Connecticut, sugaring season usually begins in February and ends when the peepersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; chorus commences. While making maple syrup is a bit of an undertaking, you can revel in the flavor of the season with the sap from just one maple tree, or a gallon purchased from a sugarhouse. Many breweries throughout New England have utilized maple sap

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Vegetables Glace au Blanc Select a variety of seasonal vegetables: baby carrots, Brussels sprouts, asparagus, baby potatoes, Cipollini onions, radishes, other petite root vegetables.

INGREDIENTS 2 C maple sap 4 TB butter Blanch each type of vegetable separately in boiling *salted water until 75% cooked â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which is just fork tender. (Time will differ given the size of each veggie) Remove each

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to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. After all veggies are blanched, in a large skillet, put the sap and butter. Bring to a simmer then add the veggies. Constantly swirl the pan as the water-butter mixture reduces. Keep swirling until the water evaporates and the veggies are coated with a beautiful, clear glaze. *It is very important to salt the water well as this is the only seasoning the vegetables will get.

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Sap Cocktails Chef Robaina begins by making a sap sugar glaze which is also used as a mixer: 8 oz maple sap, warmed 1 C confectioner’s sugar 2 oz Wild Moon Birch liqueur To rim glasses with this glaze: turn glass upside down, coat the rim, turn back up and let the glaze “melt” down the sides of the glasses.

Maple Sap Bellini

Pour prosecco or champagne into a glass and stir in 2 oz of sap glaze. Garnish with pomegranate if desired.

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Maple Sap Rye Old Fashioned

4 oz rye whisky 1 oz Carpano’s Antica Formula or other sweet vermouth 1 oz sap glaze 1 oz Wild Moon Birch liqueur Put ingredients into a metal or glass shaker with ice cubes, stir until wellchilled. Strain into a sap glazed rocks glass over a large ice cube. Garnish with an orange slice.

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Rosemary Maple Mojito 4 oz Mt Gay Rum 2 oz sap glaze 3 lime wedges Fresh rosemary

In a glass or metal shaker, muddle 2 lime wedges, rosemary, and sap glaze until well mixed. Add rum and ice, shake until chilled and well blended. Strain into sap glazed glass and garnish with lime and rosemary.

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o t w o n S

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BY ZOE MADDEN WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

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r t o s n e g r a e t n e o y u , e g l i h g a r f m e e s s m o o hT e bl

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. g n i r p s d n a l g n E wings of weather of a New

h to survive the unpredictable

From last snow to bud break, Connecticutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s forests, fields and farms wake up from their long winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slumber. Colors seep into the landscape as yellows, pinks, and greens replace the grays, whites, and browns of winter. The last snow melts away, nurturing the soil beneath with water, as the hard frozen ground softens to receive the roots of new plantings. Crocus and daffodils bloom in beautiful purples and yellows, often pushing up through the last snow, or becoming blanketed by it. The blooms seem fragile, yet are strong enough to survive the unpredictable swings of weather of a New England spring.

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The f lowers of f ruit t rees, delicate as a butterflys wing, and as pink as a kittens nose, must bloom after the last hard frost if there is to be a successful fruit harvest for the season. 210

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Trees bloom next. The flowers of fruit trees, delicate as a butterflyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wing, and as pink as a kittenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nose, must bloom after the last hard frost if there is to be a successful fruit harvest for the season. Tree blooms are always fleeting. Nourished by nutrients stored away in warmer times, green leaves unfold on the trees, completing the transition from winter to spring. As the trees burst with new life in the uncertain weather of early spring, so do many animals, such as mother foxes birthing in cozy dens beneath the ground. Like the flowers of fruit trees, vulnerable to frost, yet abundant and full of hope, our farms, our food, and our lives depend on this harsh, yet hopeful, time of year.

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The maple trees spent a long time preparing for this moment. Their leaves captured the energy of the sun, transformed it into sugars, and sent the sugary sap to store in roots all winter long, saving it up to fuel a rapid growth of new leaves in the spring. Likewise, farmers approach this time of year with a new burst of energy and aspirations for the beginning of another season. Like the trees storing up sap, the farmers who tend the forests and make their livelihoods from tapping the trees have also invested enormous time and energy into preparing for this time of year.

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Like the trees storin and make their also in

vested en

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s t s e r o f e h t d n e t o h w ng up sap, the farmers e v a h s e e r t r livelihoods from tapping thpreeparing for to

normous time and energy in this time of year. CT FOODANDFARM.COM

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The wood f rom thinned trees is used to fuel the fire which boils the excess water from the maple sap, transforming it into the thick and richly flavored syrup we enjoy.

Excess trees were carefully thinned from the forests to maximize the sunlight received by the sugar maples. Not only does this process produce more maple syrup for us to enjoy, but also it promotes greater diversity of all species of life within the forest. Nothing is wasted. The wood from thinned trees is used to fuel the fire which boils the excess water from the maple sap, transforming it into the thick and richly flavored syrup we enjoy. About 40 gallons of sap produce one gallon of syrup. To prepare for the sap to run, farmers carefully selected trees to tap and installed a network of hoses to deliver the sap to the boiling room. With everything finally ready, they hold their breath and hope for the right weather conditions for a successful harvest this year.

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The sap of the sugar maple runs when days are above freezing and nights are below freezing. Results depend enormously on weather. In some years the transition from freezing cold to warm sunny days is rapid, with only a few days for the sap to run; this means a meager harvest. Other years bring multiple weeks of the crisp early spring weather needed to produce an abundant harvest. The gift of sap, however small or large for the year, is always freely given and gratefully received. Tapping maple trees does no harm to the trees, and provides an economic incentive to preserve our woods and wild places. Maple syrup is a product unique to our landscape and climate; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s treasured and irreplaceable. There are multiple reasons to hold our breath along with the farmers and hope for an abundant season.

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Shortly after maple sugaring season, another woodland harvest takes central stage at Connecticut farms. The leaves of ramps, a small, broadleaved plant in the onion family, unfold in the woods. Ramps are classified as a spring ephemeral. They appear after the last snow, and fade away once the leaves on the trees shade out their habitat. Experienced foragers know when and where to search for these secret treasures. They kneel down to the ground and harvest only two leaves from each plant, leaving the roots and remaining leaf to nourish the plant to be able to produce next yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s harvest. The young ferns known as fiddleheads, just emerging from the ground, are another early spring treasure from the woods. The early harvest of the flavorful ramps and fiddleheads heralds the new growing season to come.

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Like the maples, fruit trees also need tending during this time of year. In the orchards, farmers venture forth amidst the last snows to prune the fruit trees. Clad in heavy boots, thick gloves, and multiple layers, the orchardists carry a ladder for taller branches and freshly sharpened loppers to ensure a clean cut. Their trained eyes spot dead wood that can harbor diseases, and weak branches that will not support the weight of fruit. Although it looks like the removal of many branches might harm the trees, the pruning actually energizes the trees and prepares them for a season of vigorous growth. Later in the year, as the flowering buds grow and open, fruit farmers keep a close eye on the weather forecasts. A late frost could freeze the blooms and destroy the fruit harvest for an entire year. Covering the trees or running a sprinkler to coat them in ice can sometimes be used to protect them. Having survived any late frosts, fruit blossoms will need to be pollinated, and hives of honeybees are often brought in. The orchardists benefit from increased pollination resulting in higher yields of fruit, and the beekeepers benefit from an abundant source of nectar for their hives. Apples, peaches, cherries, pears and honey all get their start amidst the alternating cold and sunshine of late winter and early spring.

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Around the time of last snow, beekeepers check the hives to see if bees have survived the winter. Hives buzzing with many bees can be split to replace any hives that were lost. Checking the hives in late winter brings the excitement and anticipation of another season of producing honey. Early spring brings the most abundant harvests of nectar for bees. Flowering trees provide the bulk of nectar, and therefore honey, produced by honeybees for the entire year. If cold or rain prevents bees from leaving the hive during this crucial time of year, the honey harvest will be low. While a dreary spring can bring low yields of honey, a sunny one gives honeybees ample opportunities to harvest nectar. For the beekeepers, hope, and fear, success and disappointment are all tied up in the wavering weather of early spring.

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Born into the cold of late winter, young animals will grow up on the nourishing green grasses and sunny pastures of spring and summer. Goat farmers hold their breath and give their animals tremendous time and attention, hoping for successful births and healthy babies. There are sleepless nights of checking on mother goats whose time is near. They may need to assist in a difficult birth, and not all young animals survive their first few weeks of life. Yet the goats born this spring may grow up to be future show champions, become beloved family pets, or help other farmers clear new ground by eating brush and poison ivy. Lambs, bunnies and calves are also frequently born in the spring. Baby animals are another example of vulnerable new life on Connecticut farms from last snow through bud break.

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The birth of young in early spring renews the milk supplies of dairy animals. Milk is Tulips the only food that nature on specifically glow triumphantly gray days in early spring. They burst forth in intended to nourish mammals. Weshades are of yellow, scarlet, pink and white on fortunate to enjoy milk and cheese from Connecticutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flower farms. Thousands many small dairies in Connecticut. The of them can be crammed into a small row. breath of cows and farmers alike is The tulips bloom against all odds. Planted visible in the cold morning air as the in October, the tulips spent the winter cows are brought into the milking barn. developing the roots needed to feed a rapid There are in noearly days spring. off in dairy farming. growth Through many months, the farmers hoped every that their The cows need to be milked day hard work digging trenches and investment on a consistent schedule. The farmers hard-earned money buying bulbs doofget some help from into their animal would not go to waste. Moles, voles, and companions. Mice would steal the grain squirrels all love to snack on tulip bulbs. away from the dairy cows if not for the Before planting, many farmers carefully diligent work of barn cats. Thefrom farmers remove the crisp outer skin each bulb sometimes them bowl milk. by hand, treat as this skintoisalike a of delicious, crunchy potatowill chipbe to hungry Soon the cows able to chipmunks graze trying to fatten up for the winter. on green pastures as the snows melt away and growth of plants resumes. callout: Tulips glow triumphantly on gray Spring brings renewal to many forms of days in early spring. farming in Connecticut.

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Mice would steal the grain away from the dairy cows if not for the diligent work of barn cats.The farmers sometimes treat them to a bowl of milk. CT FOODANDFARM.COM

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As the last snows fade away, the bulbs send up leaves to tempt hungry deer that have been surviving off of diminishing supplies of bark and acorns. Farmers often devote precious greenhouse space to their tulips to keep the deer out, or invest in 12-foot high deer fencing. When it is finally time to harvest the gorgeous flowers, the entire tulip plant, bulb and all, is pulled out of the ground. This gives the blooms maximum stem length and shelf life. Tulip bulbs need to be replaced each year, as they do not readily become perennials in Connecticutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s climate. Why go through the trouble to grow tulips? They are an early source of income, and joy and beauty, on a small Connecticut farmâ&#x20AC;Śa radiant way to begin the growing season.

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Tulips are an early source of income, and joy and beauty, on a small Connecticut farmâ&#x20AC;¦ a radiant way to begin the growing season. CT FOODANDFARM.COM

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Starting seeds indoors is an old farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; trick. The tender young seedlings are protected from drying wind, heavy rain, hungry critters, and late frosts. Not only does seed starting help more plants survive from seed to harvest, but also it gives the farmers a jump start, leading to earlier harvests. Each of the tiny seeds, some as small as the period on the end of a sentence, holds the potential to become a full-grown vegetable plant. Seed starting begins with the most cold-hardy plants in late January, and reaches a feverous frenzy around mid-March, which is about eight weeks before the typical last frost.

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The days are long and the work is unending, but the potential of a new growing season is invigorating. In March, as seeds for many hot weather crops like tomatoes are being started, cold tolerant seedlings like lettuce start getting transplanted to the fields. Farmers are excited to trial new varieties and new techniques. A seed-starting greenhouse is expensive, and space is limited, so the seeds are packed tightly into small trays of soil. The concentration of so many thirsty roots in a tiny space means that the seedlings must be watered twice daily. Skipping a watering can lead to total loss of the tray of seedlings, setting back the harvest by weeks, while overwatering can lead to the devastating fungal disease of dampening off. Yet through the losses, many seedlings grow and flourish under the persistent care of the farmers. Experienced farmers know to expect losses and to plant extra seedlings to compensate.

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o t hers, farmers are h y n a m o s kLi e

In 2020, farmers experienced the renewal of the growing season as the world plunged into a pandemic. As restaurant sales plummeted and the ability of farmers markets to stay open seemed questionable, farmers had more than the usual worries to contend with. Spring 2020 was my first year owning my own farm. As more sad news about the pandemic came in each day, I watched the renewal of nature on my farm, and discovered crocus, daffodils, and hyacinths as they emerged. Amidst a challenging and busy life, previous farmers on this land tucked away these bulbs to bloom for their own enjoyment, and for the generations to come. Like the blooms emerging amongst the cold, farmers found new ways of marketing their crops and of doing business to survive in the pandemic. Like so many others, farmers are hoping for a better year in 2021.

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Behind the Pages

our contributors

Erica Buehler is still perfecting the balance between espresso jitters and writing legibly while exploring the breathtaking city of Denver. Winter Caplanson, our Editor in Chief and the photographer behind Connecticut Food and Farm, connects the dots by creating content that tells the stories of the local food movement to people who support it.

Jessica Cote a photography enthusiast by day, and cunning mixologist by night, is always inspired by her favorite muse, her Italian Greyhound, Iggy Pop.

Ben Dubow, chef, pastor, speaker, writer,

and regular on The Zeroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Journey Podcast explores connections between big ideas like food systems, entrepreneurship, and social justice.

Gena Golas spends her days baking at work, but has only recently embraced the mess and the joy of baking with her kids at home.

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Tom Kaldy is a soft-spoken chef with a taste for seasonal ingredients, old world wine, and “Below Deck” drama.

Jennifer LaVoie is a freelance writer

who has just learned how to make the perfect banh mi. Life is now complete.

Zoe Madden can be found farming

organic vegetables and flowers, cooking, fixing her old farmhouse, and keeping up her blog.

Juli Mancini, Recipe Developer and Food Stylist, is obsessed with the visual organizational of all things edible, botanical, and chocolate.

Lisa Nichols runs Bread

& Beast Food Photography and shoots for publications in Connecticut and New York.

Katie Pinette will be staving

Rita Rivera, Connecticut Food and Farm’s Graphic Designer, dedicates this issue to her four-legged best friends, Mogu and Kuma, who sadly passed in 2020.

Anna Sawin Little known fact about

photographer Anna Sawin? She is part of a group of cold-water swimmers that swim all year round in CT waters.

Marilynn Turner, when not glued to her computer teaching online college English courses, spends her time frolicking with her black lab Maggie, creating in the kitchen, and trying to focus on physical fitness. Amy S. White: teacher, line cook, and

writer, looks forward to making bacon, egg, and cheese bread pudding each and every snow day we get this year.

Kristin L Wolfe, a writing professor at

NY/CT colleges, is likely on her hands and knees picking up pine needles from her Xmas tree.

off winter boredom by attempting to blow sugar glass. (And not burn herself badly.)

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