Connecticut Food & Farm Magazine, Spring 2022, Volume 27

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

1

CAPTURE CREATIVE CONNECTICUT FOOD AND FARM PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY FOR THE AGRICULTURAL AND FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRIES

ctfoodandfarm.com 2

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

ut O t u Sho

Chef nderson ler A Chef Ty nds e m m o c Re

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

o c c i r B

@ChefTylerAnderson

Bricco in West Hartford has always been one of my favorite restaurants and the roast chicken dish is one of the best chicken dishes I’ve ever had. Bone-in half chickens are brined and roasted in the wood burning ovens until the skin renders down and the turns crackly and crispy, licked by fire. The chicken is always perfectly seasoned and always perfectly cooked, the consistency of Bricco is one of its best traits. The dish is also served with charred broccoli that has been lightly squeezed with lemon juice, a beautiful salsa verde and perfectly cooked piping hot grits crusted with Parmesan. Truly delicious and an amazing value at only $28.

3

in this issue

LADDERS TO LATTICE

KRISTIN L. WOLFE

HYDE DAIRY

REBECCA TOMS

ALL IN, WHOLE HEART, DIE HARD TWISTED ITALIAN

MARY ELLEN FILLO

VIOLET CREME BRULEE TART

WINTER CAPLANSON

WILD VIOLET SUGAR

WINTER CAPLANSON

DIRT AND BUGS AND COWS AND GOATS:

SUMMER FARM CAMP FOR KIDS

COURTNEY SQUIRE

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

4

74 60

50

42

32

6

SPRING 2022 | VOLUME 27

TUCKED AWAY

THE HAPPY SECRET OF WINDOW BOX FARM

5

KRISTEN ROBERTS

SELF-SEEDING PLANTS

EASY GARDEN MAGIC

MARINA ESCOBAR

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

WITH THE FIERY KISS OF SAMBAL

AWAKEN YOUR SENSES

JASON WELCH

SAMBAL OELEK

THAT BEAUTIFUL KICK WE ALL LOVE

BETHANY SUPRENANT

PRESSED FLOWERS: PATIENCE OPTIONAL

ERICA BEUHLER

LARGER THAN LIFE: BEN KELLER ART

REBECCA TOMS

92 102 116 132 144

82

B d n a t u r i g s D n d Co w s and a SUM

6

MP FOR KIDS A C M R A F M ER

G

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Goats

O OT PH

CO

H O LS

BY

TNE UR

LI S AN IC

Y SQUIRE

SUMMER CAMP. Its mere mention

elicits visions of kids laughing and romping outdoors, ensconced in all the glory that summertime has to offer.

As a kid, looking forward to camp is perhaps the highlight of the summer season: school’s out, the world opens up, and the wistful days of summer are full of freedom and the promise of new experiences. With so many diverse types of camps available, and parents looking to offer their kids hands-on life lessons, it is no wonder that farm camps are becoming all the rage.

Farm camps are a fantastic opportunity for kids to get the quintessential outdoor summer camp experience, while also getting to immerse themselves on real working farms. Kids learn valuable skills like teamwork, independence, patience, and community. Screen-free play while connecting with nature is incredibly necessary in this day and age, but kids take away even more than that as they feed and care for animals, and learn first-hand about our food system, the challenges of growing, and the inter-connectedness of our environment. Meeting real farmers who produce food for their communities can be a lifechanging and truly authentic experience that lays the foundation for a deeper understanding of the world around us, and hey- it might even have the added benefit of getting your kids to eat more vegetables!

Here are five of the most popular farm camps from around Connecticut that offer a variety of farming experiences to suit every age.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

7

Wakeman TOWN FARM As a not-for-profit, education is front and center at this community farm in Westport.

Campers and adults of all ages are welcomed here to participate in a myriad of programming, such as culinary camps, community events (such as wine dinners), and of course a wide variety of educational talks and workshops on farming and the environment. Participants in farm camps at Wakeman Town Farm spend their days learning life skills like growing and harvesting vegetables, learning how to preserve the harvest, and even running their own farm stand. Kids have fun caring for the rabbits, ducks, goats, sheep, and the stars of

8

LISA NICHOLS PHOTOS

the show, their two alpacas who bring joy to everyone who sees them! Being good to the land is at the heart of everything that campers learn, and kids get a chance to immerse themselves in activities that provide a solid foundation for learning about organic methods.

Activities focus on the role of pollinators in the food system, composting lessons using the “black gold” from the on-farm compost system, watering the gardens with rain from collection barrels, and yes, even getting to feed the chickens food scraps from their on-site commercial kitchen center. Cooking in the outdoor oven offers an utterly unique experience for

kids of all ages to enjoy some old-fashioned food and fun!

Farm camps fill up quickly, with a waitlist every year, and it is no wonder. Events and Programs Coordinator, Christy Colasurdo, says, “our repeat visitors tell us that we’re growing great things here, chiefly a terrific sense of community and belonging.”

Wakeman Town Farm offers a variety of half-day week-long programs, as well as a twoweek session for older kids with their “Green Teens” Program (also known as the Green Team Summer Service Program).

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

9

10

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

• Little Farmers Preschool Camp (ages 4-6) and Junior Farmers Camp (ages 7-10): Kids have fun learning what it is like to be a real farmer: planting and harvesting vegetables, feeding the farm animals, learning about insects in the garden, collecting eggs, and even cooking straight from the garden!

• Green Teens (ages 11-13): This takes farm camp to a whole new level, where older kids get a chance to experience sustainable farming practices while getting involved in community service. Participants grow and harvest vegetables to donate to local food pantries as well as run their own farm stand. A huge focal point of this program is learning about local food insecurity, and kids even help cook up a farm-to-table meal at a local homeless center.

For more info, visit their website and follow on Facebook and Instagram

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

11

12

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

13

Henny PENNY FARM

LISA NICHOLS PHOTOS

Located on eighteen acres of grazing land in Ridgefield, Henny Penny Farm practices Regenerative Agriculture as their sheep move from field to field, grazing on their natural diet while restoring soil health all the while. In addition to the sheep, this teaching and fiber farm boasts llamas, ducks, turkeys, goats, rabbits, chickens, and a potbellied pig named Felix. Camp sizes are limited to eight children, providing an intimate experience where campers work hands-on with all the animals, doing real chores and seeing first-hand what it takes to keep the animals healthy.

They even get a chance to learn about the different ways of raising meat birds, and how they differ from what we get in the grocery store. As Farmer Whitney Freeman says, farm camps “provide a connection to agriculture that is essential- farming is purposeful work that has no creative bounds and constantly demands problem-solving to always do it better.” And of course, her goal is that campers of all ages have fun while they take away new skills, make new friends, and really understand what it takes to put food on our tables. With such small class sizes, the camps sell out within hours of being published. The best way

14

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

15

16

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

to secure a spot in camp is to join their mailing list, as well as become a member of the farm, which offers exclusive early registration for farm camp, as well as access to other programming like hosting birthday parties, dyeing yarn, sheepshearing, family movie nights and more.

Henny Penny Farm offers one day or four weeklong half-day programs throughout the year, including Spring Break sessions.

• Young Explorers Program (ages 3-5): Campers learn all about baby chicks, farm animals, and the plants and natural wildlife on the farm.

• Junior Farmers Camp (ages 5-8): Campers do morning chores on the farm, collect eggs, and maybe even learn how to milk a goat while caring for all the animals on the farm.

• Assistant Farmers Camp (ages 9-12): Campers do morning chores on the farm, collect eggs, learn how to milk a goat, and choose activities centered around a particular animal for a deeper learning experience.

• Teen Farmers Camp (ages 13-16): Campers get a chance to learn much more about the sheep and llamas that graze the pastures, Regenerative farming practices, the plants that make up the pasture, and even have fun collecting and comparing soil samples! New for 2022.

For more info, visit their website and follow on Facebook and Instagram

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

17

18

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

19

Maplewood

FARM

CARLA MCELROY PHOTOS

At Maplewood Farm, in Thompson, young kids are invited to this working farm to learn about the many animals that make their home here, as well as about the mohair and wool that is produced on the farm for fiber. Kids just love learning about the Angora goats, the long wool sheep, the rare Hungarian Racka sheep, the several donkeys, ducks, hens, Jersey Wooly rabbits, and even the resident peacock. Small-sized groups allow for in-depth lessons and lots of interactive animal time. Owner Heather Laffin, a former early childhood teacher, developed this series of farm camps specifically to help stimulate kids’ curiosity and create a fun place for them to connect with one another, as well as with the animals on the farm. Nothing brings her greater joy than “to see the bonds created between the campers and the animals.” Future offerings will include a fiber camp, where students will learn the entire process of how wool gets from the sheep to a knitting

20

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

21

22

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

project. Current camp offerings are halfday, weeklong programs (ages 4-8). Don’t be surprised that their current offerings sell out quickly, as this teacher/farmer offers a highly structured and play-based curriculum that centers around getting to snuggle cute, soft, and fluffy animals!

For more info, visit their website and follow on Facebook and Instagram

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

23

24

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

25

Terra

FIRMA FARM COLLEEN O’CONNOR PHOTOS

Located in North Stonington, not far from the Foxwoods Resort and Casino, Terra Firma Farm produces 100% grassfed milk and beef, pasture-raised pork, and pasture-raised chicken. But the real fun begins in June each year, when hundreds of kids descend upon the farm to play in the fields, pastures, and barn.

Daily farm chores and activities teach kids the values of cooperation, how to be responsible in caring for the animals, and respect for the natural cycles of farm life. While the half-day sessions for younger kids revolve around daily farm chores and simple cooking activities, the full-day sessions for older kids allow the children to dive a bit deeper in the dairy side of the business (working in the creamery and even making their own ice cream), cooking over an open fire, and putting on their own small country fair. School vacation sessions are offered, along with: • Summer Sprouts ages (3-5): Kids have fun playing games, doing simple cooking activities, and learning about kindness for animals and each other through animal care and daily chores.

• Summer Farmers ages (6-12): Older kids camp and cook over an open fire, learn about dairy cows, milking, and take care of all the barnyard animals.

All sessions offer tactile experiences that help campers develop a stronger connection to the farm and the origin of their food, while learning about ecology and the environment.

For more info, visit their website and follow on Facebook and Instagram

26

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

27

Fairholm FARM

LAURIE BONNEAU PHOTOS

This century-old family farm raises and milks over four hundred Holstein cows, and also produces their own beef and pork. Like most dairy farmers, they grow hay and corn as silage for their milking herd, and pasture-graze the beef cattle in the warmer months. Campers at Fairholm Farm get a wide variety of experiences: they get to feed a calf with a bottle, see the hay chopping in action, do soil sampling and water runoff activities to learn the importance of cover crops, plant vegetables, care for baby chicks and ducks, and collect eggs. One year, a group was lucky enough to even witness a cow giving birth! When all is said and done, the kids have a wonderful time, and gain a deeper connection to their food. But at the heart of this Farm Camp, Farmer Erica Hermonot hopes that the kids take away “respect for how much work it takes to provide food to others.” Registration opens mid-April, with half-day weeklong sessions, each with a different theme, from late June through August.

For more info, visit their website and follow on Facebook and Instagram

28

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

29

LISA NICHOLS PHOTO 30

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

COURTNEY SQUIRE spends her days farming, food trucking at a local brewery, and making and selling wood-fired pizza from her farm in Pomfret, along with her husband, Adam, and dogs, Raymond and Phoebe. Check it all out at unboundgloryfarm.com.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

31

wild violet 32

sugar

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

33

34

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

ONE OF T HE FIRST

TO GRACE

OUR FIELDS, LAWNS,

AND AT T HE EDGES

OF FORESTS, violet flowers can be eaten fresh or made into a lovely tea. Violets have value as herbal medicine and have long been used in love spells.

In the language of flowers, a 19th-century code used to make bouquets that passed messages between lovers and suitors, each flower was given its own meaning. Violets represent lust as well as faithfulness, protection, peace, and healing. Violets are also among the most popular edible flowers in the world.

Violet sugar is lightly scented, naturally purple, and easy to make. Perfect for dusting warm scones or sprinkling over frosted cupcakes, it’s also delicious in iced tea, lemonade, or in the sugar bowl at a spring tea party.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

35

HERE’S HOW TO MAKE VIOLET SUGAR:

36

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Harvest purple violet blossoms in the morning before the dew dries.

Rinse with clean water, spread out on a sheet of parchment and let air dry in a cool, dark, place.

Pick the petals from the green center.

In a spice grinder, process petals and granulated sugar in a 1:2 ratio by weight. Add more sugar as needed to get the consistency of wet sand.

Use immediately for best flavor and boldest color, or spread back out onto parchment to let dry in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight.

Boost the floral flavor with a few drops of violet aroma.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

37

38

WILD VIOLET SWEET HEARTS: CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Make heart shaped sugar cookies using your favorite recipe.

Blend a batch of royal icing, dip a portion of each cookie into the icing, then sprinkle with fresh violet sugar.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

39

40

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

41

42

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

violet creme brûlée

ta rt CT FOODANDFARM.COM

43

44

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

TAST E BY SPELLBOUND is a from-scratch bakery and coffee shop with 3 Connecticut locations. They are renowned for their fresh baked goods, seasonal menus, and niche flavors. In springtime, they use violets in their buttercreams, glazes, bars and even ice cream.

Their berry-violet macarons and violet caramel cupcakes are only outshone by their violet creme brûlé e tarts. Here, owner and pastry chef Miriam Rieder shares that recipe.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

45

VIOLET

CREME BRULÉE

T A R T Q R SHELL: FOR A 9 INCH TART PAN

1 stick (1/2 cup) salted butter, at room temperature 1/3 cup sugar

1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour, spooned into measuring cup and leveled-off 1 egg yolk

In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until pale and creamy, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Add the flour and mix on low speed for about 30 seconds, until the flour is incorporated. The mixture will look like wet, clumpy sand. Add the egg yolk and mix on low speed until the yolk is evenly incorporated and the dough is clumpy, about 30 seconds.

Using your hand, lightly knead the dough into a ball inside the bowl. Remove the dough from the bowl, press it into a disk shape, wrap it in plastic wrap, and let it rest in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.

Spray tart pan with nonstick baking spray. Take the dough out of the fridge and place in center of pan.

With your fingertips, press the dough over the bottom and up the sides of the pan.

Cover with plastic wrap and place in the freezer for at least 30 minutes to chill.

Preheat oven at 350. Place the chilled shell on a baking sheet (for easy handling) and bake for 23 to 26 minutes, or until lightly golden.

46

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

47

1/4 cup cornstarch 1/4 tsp salt 13/4 cups whole milk, divided

Q FILLING R 3/4 cup agave syrup

2 tablespoons butter

1 tsp violet flavoring (can use more to taste)

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten

Combine cornstarch and salt in a large saucepan. Stir in 1/2 cup milk until smooth. Gradually stir in remaining milk, agave syrup and violet flavoring.

Cook and stir over medium heat until thickened and bubbly. Reduce heat; cook and stir 2 minutes longer.

Remove from the heat.

Stir in a small amount of hot filling into egg yolks; return all to the pan, stirring constantly. Bring to a gentle

48

boil; cook and stir 2 minutes longer.

Remove from the heat.

Gently stir in butter. Cool to room temperature without stirring.

In a chilled small bowl, beat cream on high speed until stiff peaks form. Fold cream into cooled filling; spoon into crust. Refrigerate overnight. The next day, top with sugar and brûlé e with a torch until caramelized. Decorate with fresh violets and violet sugar.

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

49

, n I , l t r Al a e H e l o h W

: d ar

H iD e

by Mary Ellen Fillo Winter Caplanson photos 50

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

There is always a silver lining to any difficult time, or so the saying goes, even in a restaurant industry debilitated by the COVID pandemic.

Ask restaurateurs Mark and Michelle Maturo, owners of Parkville Market’s Twisted Italian Café in Hartford. Without that pandemic that forced “Dine In” to become ”Take Out,” the touted Italian restaurant creating signature creations like “Crazy” Bolognese, Meatball Parmesan, Rappini and the Pig, Smashburger Grinder and Twisted Garlic Knots, may never have happened.

“We both had been in the restaurant business for years, it’s how we met,” explained Michelle Maturo, who rattled off the couple’s combined, impressive culinary resume that includes well-known Hartford area eateries like the famed Hearthstone, Congress Rotisserie and Carbone’s Kitchen. “COVID hit two years ago and we both lost our jobs at our respective restaurants. That meant trying to figure out a way to do our own thing.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

51

52

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

“I just know flavor, I taste everything I cook and I have developed the recipes over the years.”

Enter Parkville Market, the state’s first food hall, featuring about 20 different restaurants under one roof, and patterned after similar halls including Chelsea Market in New York City and the Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia.

“Parkville was perfect for what we had in mind because it was COVID-friendly,” explained Michelle Maturo about the decision to open there in the midst of the pandemic. While Parkville offered casual inside dining as well as patio seating, it also was well-known as a take-out venue, a business model that was ahead of the curve and a perfect fit

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

given COVID-prompted restrictions limiting social interaction. “For us, it was the good thing that came out of COVID.” The couple then looked for financing and found it through The Hospitality Collective, a group of area business people interested in investing in restaurants.

“Another restaurant in the Parkville complex made sense in COVID world,” said Ben Dubow, a member of the investment group. “Their food was amazing when we tasted it and our goal is to

53

54

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

help entrepreneurs succeed. It was exciting for us because Michelle and Mark are hard workers, took risks, had amazing food.”

Those attributes translated well for the couple since the place opened in September, 2020. Investors and customers agree that Mark’s expertise in the kitchen, and Michelle’s expertise as the manager have been the secret recipe for “Twisted” success.

“We know you have to stand out if you are going to make it in this industry” said Mark Maturo. “If you are not trying to be the best, you are falling behind,” he said. “Michelle excels when it comes to customer service, knowing our customers and being the face of our business,” he said. “I’m best at being in the shadows, the back of the house of guy,” he said. “I think part of our overall success is that her strengths are my weaknesses and vice versa.”

Ask the couple about what is going on the kitchen and they are a bit guarded when it comes to sharing why their slow simmered tomato ‘gravy,’ their parmesan dishes, their meatballs fans exclaim are ‘just like mama’s’ and their popular “garlic knots” rolls have attracted a fan base that is dedicated to trekking out to Hartford in order to “mangia.”

“I’m from New Jersey, I’m Italian, we know good Italian food,” said customer Joe Yezza, a West Hartford pharmaceutical representative whose region covers several states. “I always test an Italian restaurant by ordering the eggplant parmesan,” he explained. “That’s the benchmark. You can tell if an Italian restaurant is good by its eggplant and it was clear this was the real deal, nothing packaged or pre-frozen,” he continued. “They legit, good Italian food and good people.”

The two are humble about their success.

“I don’t even know how to explain the way and what I cook,” says Mark Maturo, whose culinary education included classes at the Culinary Institute of America. “I just know flavor, I taste everything I cook and I have developed the recipes over the years,” he explained. “As a chef you end up with your own styles and ways of doing things, all based on what you learned during your career,” he continued.

“I’ve always been a pretty creative guy in the kitchen and just want to serve food that people keep coming back for.”

And they are.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

55

56

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

“Once a week…we go about once a week,” said Joan Looney, a West Hartford resident who with her husband, Ed, began going to “Twisted” when COVID prevented traditional dining out, leaving “to go” as the only viable option to get out of the kitchen.

“But he always ends up eating some of mine because it is so good.”

Michelle and Mark are adamant that even with COVID-related sourcing issues and rising food costs, their menu items will only be made with the best possible, and that no corners will be cut to save money.

“We know you have

to stand out if you are going to make it in this industry. If you are not trying to be the best, you are falling behind.”

“I may not be a connoisseur, but compared to any other Bolognese I have had, theirs is the best,” she said barely taking a breath.

“And their specials, broccoli rabe soup that is crazy good, the lamb ragu with gnocchi, the best,” she enthuses. “My husband is much more calorie careful than me and chooses lighter food,” she said referring to the more calorie conservative fare on the menu including assorted fresh salads and appetizers.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

Their most popular items are their Crazy Bolgnese, rigatoni, ground beef, Italian sausage and pancetta braised in a creamy tomato sauce and topped with house made pesto ricotta. Another favorite is the Twisted Italian Grinder with hot capicola, mortadella, Genoa salami, ham and provolone. Their house-made meatballs from a family recipe and weekend specials like risotto

57

58

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

and homemade pastas are also fan favorites. They also do catering, another aspect that has been very successful, again as customers choose entertaining at home, versus going out.

Those customers, by the way are a precious commodity that the couple agree are as important as the menu.

“We believe in what we are doing and know our customers are our biggest supporters,” said Michelle Maturo. “We have built a good reputation and a loyal fan base. We work hard to continue that good reputation and are so grateful to people looking out for us.”

The two admit working together in such small space has its but even when they agree to disagree, the job gets done.

“Every day is a challenge with him,” she jokes. “It’s an open kitchen and after all, we are Italian,” she said. “It’s a learning experience, working together, and while it can be tough and stressful at times, we do not want to leave the business in the hands of other people. We know how to work together and it’s one of the things I love about the two of us.”

The couple’s restaurant has already starting racking up industry awards, as they continue to make their mark on Hartford’s restaurant scene.

They both have their eyes on a bigger and selfstanding “brick and mortar” location someday, acknowledging that competition is fierce and they are now focusing on building a good reputation and a solid fan base.

As so many in the cities worry about the after effects of COVID, return of employees and picking up the pieces after two years of loss, the Maturos are clear about where they stand when it comes to their city.

We are die-hard fans of Hartford,” said Mark Maturo, a graduate of Buckeley High School.

“My roots are in Hartford,” he continued. “My philosophy is if you put your all into what you are doing, your whole heart, that has to show in the food and the service. You can’t be mediocre and succeed.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

59

by Rebecca Toms

60

photos Wi n t e r C a p l a n s o n

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

61

62

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

A

s day begins on this dairy farm, there is pure poetry unfolding.

The opening: a grayish Brown Swiss walks to her milking stanchion, settles into her portion of grain, and patiently waits for the release of her udder’s burden. The stanzas continue as the farmer comes up alongside, brushes his worn, hardened hands against the soft heifer’s coat, and bends down to start the milking. His shoulder leans in, his head rests on the flanks of her side. As she gives the gift of her milk, he can’t help but feel humbled that he should be alongside this powerful creature in the tender moments of her day.

At Hyde’s Dairy in Franklin, Dave brings his cows for milking twice a day, using a milking machine that removes the handaching work from the milking process but keeps him close to each animal. This is the privilege of a small dairy. With around 50 cows, Dave knows them by name, by character, and by the deep gazes they share.

And they know him. A friendly bovine nudge interrupts the process of bringing them to the milking parlor, or a downwards lean, asking for a rub of the muzzle. There is a closeness to be enjoyed- even if it means dried saliva and bits of chewed hay on his shoulder. They are grateful for his care.

But the beauty of a small dairy is juxtaposed against the struggles they face- and Hyde’s is no exception. You always have the expense of running the dairy and caring for your animals, but if you do not have the milk sales because consumers are turning to cheaper products from larger industries, you can’t

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

survive. Dave needed to move his milk, and due to his size as a small dairy, there were limitations as to where he could sell.

“

But then he met Brie Casadei from Terra Firma Farm. A fellow small dairy farmer equally obsessed with her cows, Brie had built a following on the southeastern coast of CT and found enough funding to afford the construction of a bottling operation, a capital cost that is difficult for small dairies to afford when trying to diversify their market. Dave couldn’t afford to build that infrastructure, but he could get his milk to Brie’s Farm, and she would bottle it for him.

WITH

Meanwhile, Dave’s herd was growing.

Hiring a new farm hand, Sam, meant more help on the farm, but also her cows that she had combined with his herd. More cows and more milk…now packaged in perfect portions through Brie’s small scale bottling process. But none of these mattered if he didn’t have the customers to send the milk to.

CHARACTER,

AROUND 50 COWS, DAVE KNOWS THEM BY NAME, BY

AND BY THE DEEP GAZES THEY SHARE.

63

Fortunately, a favorable trend was developing in Connecticut. Sparked by Covid and the increasing popularity of delivery options, milk delivery service was resurrected and modernized beyond its 1950’s suburbia trope. Online platforms made it easy for customers to request the quantities they needed, as well as choose additional local products (meat, bread, cheese, and other specialty small business items) to round out their order.

Having a milkman was making sense for Connecticut again.

Dave saw this as the moment to develop his own delivery service, putting local products right into the hands of customers: folks from high school, people that had known his parents and grandparents, his friends. He had the opportunity to connect his community with the product and work he loved. He knew he could create better pay for his employees by giving them more work doing deliveries between milking times.

So in November of last year, they took to the familiar roads of Franklin and beyond and started delivering to the community’s doorstep.

“ THEY TOOK TO THE

FAMILIAR ROADS OF FRANKLIN AND BEYOND AND STARTED DELIVERING TO THE COMMUNITY’S DOORSTEP.

The United States now has less than 32,000 licensed dairy farms and more are shutting down every year. For every story of a dairy farm revitalizing, modernizing, and growing, there are more tales of farms shutting down, bigger corporations getting bigger, and the loss of local dairy plaguing the country.

But in Franklin, there’s Dave and his commitment to making this work, not just for his dreams, or the cows that he watches over, but for the community.

He says that “the business is based on relationships,” whether it’s training and preparing Sam, his farm-hand, to start her own dairy and be even better than

64

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

65

66

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

67

him one day; preserving the land that was partially his grandparents that he rebought and brought back to its farming tradition; or customers excited to see his farm’s milk in the case at a local specialty grocer.

He and I talk about this, in his large barn sheltering his herd from a cold 68

rain. Inside it’s warm and tidied up with bedding of fresh shavings. The cows say their hellos and begin settling in for their mid-morning rest- the already gentle brown eyes growing heavier with a drowsy coziness. Dave glances over the Holsteins, Jerseys, Linebacks, and Brown Swiss; breeds he has grown to love over the years.

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

“

...THEY TOOK TO THE FAMILIAR ROADS OF FRANKLIN AND BEYOND AND STARTED DELIVERING TO THE COMMUNITY’S DOORSTEP.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

69

There’s nothing to replace this for him.

He’s excited his delivery has gotten to the point where folks are ordering from him again and again. His passion for stewarding his herd drives everything else he does. Seeing the ladies lying there in contentment is the highlight of his day.

And so the steady rhythm of the dairy goes on. The poem is repeated each morning and evening, each day, as he gathers his herd to him. A man being allowed to walk among these great beasts, filling his pails with their milk, and his spirit with the joy of living his life beside them.

Hyde’s Dairy offers weekly home delivery of milk and other local farm products within 30 minutes’ drive from Franklin, with delivery days specific to each town.

If you’re not going to be home, leave a cooler out for your driver to put your order into. Orders are placed online, with payment by credit card.

70

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

71

72

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

73

r e d d a L to 74

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

ro s e c i t t a L

BY KRISTIN L.WOLFE

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

75

F

rom corporate ladders and TV Emmys to garden shovels and harvest baskets, Marina Escobar of Seed Your Soul, has literally stopped to smell the roses.

For thirty years she worked in and around television news, and the last decade plus as the Vice President of Visual Technology at ESPN. She went from an endlessly busy life, traveling quite often and managing a huge team, to the realization that something needed to change.

Although her children were older, with two in high school and her eldest in his mid-twenties and working, her mom Blanca had been living with Alzheimer’s, and needed more attention and assistance; she wanted to be as present for her as possible. As the pandemic hit and forced everyone home, it became the perfect time for Escobar to carve out a new path; that meant simplifying and slowing down. So, “Goodbye TV studios, Hello garden beds!”

76

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

77

78

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Gardening is not new to Escobar. Originally from Colombia, her family has always been centered around fresh food and home cooking. It is no surprise that she would find her way back to the garden amongst beautiful flowers and vegetables; a place that was always a sanctuary for her mom. Despite the darkness Alzheimer’s can bring, her mom still lights up with childlike innocence at the sight of a fresh bloom, and Escobar knows the power that brings. She decided to make nurturing that growth a part of her new chapter, personally and professionally…so [or sow?] Seed Your Soul was born.

Helping others build, design, and grow kitchen gardens brings Escobar’s past, present, and future together.

“SYS is designing, building and installing many complete garden spaces this spring,” she says. “These turnkey raised kitchen gardens will be fully fenced-in so my clients (not the CT wildlife) can enjoy their harvests. They range from beautiful, side-by-side double-beds to a larger six-bed layout, all custom designed. We are excited to be helping our clients grow what they love to eat!”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

79

In addition to helping people grow what they eat, especially in the midst of soaring food prices, through SYS, Escobar gets to teach again. Bringing her worlds together has become a natural culmination. “I started my career teaching designers how to use graphic systems,” she says.

“As I climbed the corporate management ladder, handson teaching happened less and less. In my new venture, I am happily teaching again.” She adds, “In addition to my clients, my children are growing up learning skills that will make their world a better place. From clean air, sustainability, organic eating and so on. Not to mention, there are many lessons in gardening - both successes and failures. I take pride in knowing I had a tiny part in making this world a better place for my family and my clients.”

And, I take pride in knowing this special human, now twenty years this month! I am a witness to the powerhouse she was in her corporate life, the intensity with which she cares for family, and the passion she displays for the simpler life she leads today.

Seed Your Soul is based in Newtown, CT. Follow on Instagram.

80

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

81

82

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Self-Seeding Plants Easy Garden Magic

by Marina Escobar, Seed Your Soul

One of my earliest memories as a child in Little Rock, Arkansas was my mom’s flower garden. It seemed that every year, we had a zillion zinnias, a crowd of cosmos, and a sea of sweet williams. I was never quite sure how she was able to plant all those beautiful flowers and still find time to do everything else as a mother of three young kids. Cue: Salt shakers!

She didn’t need to sow all those seeds to enjoy endless beauty from her garden. In fact, her garden was very low maintenance. Las semillas de las flores son como la sal en los saleros, she explained. Translation: “Flowers are like little salt shakers…” spreading seeds to customize your garden in the same way you customize the flavor of your food.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

83

ew seed to grow an le ab vi ce u d ro n and e plants that p me garden desig o h y m Self-seeders ar l, u o S r g you: . At Seed You rage self-seedin u co en the next season to at th rvice, I advise consultation se er heads b the dried flow u R • alms to release ds, which p ea r h u d yo ea d n e ee th w t et u b • C snip the dried to s n ea m y ll ra te the seeds. li . em st e th ff o s d flower hea ere you encourage kle the seeds wh n ri p S Not only does it • and if rm but more t them to grow an w new flowers to fo al salt ws you to t to use an actu an w u yo importantly, allo go for it. of seeds which for tiny seeds, er ak sh harvest zillions ve for later or you can either sa . sow immediately

84

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

And if the here’s a se steps aren’t nother method easy enough, : • Don’t deadhea d all you r bloom • Let yo s. ur flowe rs self-s exactly w eed (o he interven re they are and r self-sow) tion fro without m you. any • When the drop its timing is right, ow yo you with n seeds onto t ur plant will he the gard en magi soil rewarding c of free plants.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

85

86

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

These are a dozen favorite flowers that pop up in my garden regularly. Most are edible, easy to grow, and are the most prolific, self-seeding flowers you can sow. I planted some only once and allowed them to go to seed, letting the wind do the work of dispersing like fairy dust in a salt shaker: 1. Borage – A blue starry-shaped flower that starts to turn purple to pink as it ages. It’s simple to start from seed and grows to 30 plus inches. Borage forms a tall thick stem easily crowding out other flowers around it, so deadhead early to manage self-seeding. It has a cucumber-like flavor and tastes delicious in salads, savory foods, and drinks.

2. Calendula (Pot Marigold) – Often seen in garden beds along with the more common French Marigold, calendula is a brilliant yellow and orange daisy-like flower with long slender petals. It’s excellent for repelling pests and attracting beneficial pollinators. To harvest, pull the dried petals off the seed pods to reveal the seeds. They will happily self-sow around your garden and don’t mind overcrowding. Add fresh or dried petals to salads, to cakes, or to a steaming broth as the “poor man’s saffron.”

3. Chives – All parts of the chive plant are edible: the bulb, the grass-like tuft, and the garlic-tasting, purple pom-pom blossom. Chives can be harvested at any time - before, during and after blooming. Cut back to about 1” above the soil but leave some blooms for seed harvesting. When the bloom fades and dries up, release the seeds by rubbing the dried bloom between your fingers. I planted chives in my garden only once, dividing them every couple of years, and every spring I’m gifted a sea of purple blossoms.

4. Cilantro – Harvest cilantro leaves when the plant is small and tender. Once the plant matures or temperature heats up, cilantro bolts. It will send up a long stalk, yielding white flowers followed by seeds, known as coriander. Let the seeds self-sow in place or cut the seed heads and place upside down in a bag, allowing the seeds to ripen and fall off. Store and later scatter in the spring to enjoy loads of cilantro.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

87

5. Coneflower (Echinacea) – The prickly cone of this glorious, tall flower provides a great landing spot for finches and other winged beauties. Echinacea is best known as an herbal remedy that boosts immunity and although its roots hold the most medicinal power, you can harvest the leaves and petals after two years of growth for herbal tea. As with so many other flowers, when coneflowers finish flowering, they will fall to the ground and self-seed.

6. Cosmos – Pollen-rich, standing tall and thin, these will yield endless blooms. Regularly snip or deadhead, encouraging new blooms and controlling the amount of self-seeding.

7. Great Blue Lobelia – This majestic native perennial has long-lasting vivid blue flowers and stands 2-4 feet tall. The flowers are long and tubular-shaped and grow in tight clusters.

Although the flowers are long lasting, the plant itself is shortlived. Divide Lobelia every couple of years, encouraging new growth and self-seeding. If harvesting the tiny Lobelia seed, use the salt shaker method to scatter.

8. Nasturtium – It’s a “trap crop” for pests who prefer tasty nasturtiums over your veggies. Harvest the leaves and the peppery-flavored bright flowers at any time to use in salads or to make pesto. If you like capers, try pickling the green plump seeds. The seed clusters consist of three chickpea-sized seeds and are in the center of the flower. Harvest the seeds when their green color fades or they have dropped. Let them dry out, store in a glass container and plant spring to summer. If self-sowing, leave the seeds to drop at the base of the plant.

9. Portulaca – This low-growing succulent plant is perfect for rock edges and ideal for containers. The small leaves are surrounded by multi-colored blooms which fade to reveal tiny seeds. Portulaca love full sun and spread themselves well, coming back every year. They take care of themselves!

88

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

89

90

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

10. Sunflower (Small Blossom) – I’ve found the small-blossom and dwarf varieties tuck nicely into garden spaces and selfseed much easier than the larger variety. The larger the seed, the easier the target for birds and squirrels who not only love seeds but also devour the tender seedling when they emerge.

Sunflowers are naturally self-seeders, so do not deadhead.

Let the flowers mature and dry out on their own so their seeds release and self sow.

11. Sweet William – Because this was Mom’s favorite, she allowed it to self-seed every year since it only grows for two years (biennial), blooming the second. Each flower has a brown pod that holds many tiny little seeds which you can harvest simply by shaking or letting fall off the plant naturally.

It’s another good choice for the salt shaker method if you want to manage scattering the tiny seeds.

12. Zinnia – A couple of these in your garden and you may never have to buy another zinnia again. This must-have garden workhorse grows tall and mighty, attracts many beneficial pollinators and is the perfect cut-and-come again bouquet. A zillion zinnias, remember? For seed harvesting, you will need to leave some flower heads on the stem to dry out. Harvest the heads and remove the petals which will have a spear-like pod at the end. This is the zinnia seed. Store in a paper bag or glass container and scatter in the spring.

Remember, some flo

wers drop more seeds than other s, so you’ll need to manage those volunteers.

If you give seeds the time to flower, mature an d set seed – like my mom’s garden, you will be gifted endless beauty and free plants every year. Now, go fin d those old salt shakers and sc atter some garden magic.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

91

92

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

BY KRISTEN ROBERTS WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS CT FOODANDFARM.COM

93

being present while you eat is an effective and free practice to support digestion, improve blood sugar, and calm the neuroendocrine system. How often do any of us allow ourselves to fully engage with our food nowadays? Between smart phones, iPads, laptops, and TVs that take priority, we’re typically multi-tasking, eating in a rush or on-the-go, and food doesn’t earn our attention like it used to.

Totally

Digestion begins from the moment we first notice our food. Think of it like foreplay is to a good romp, only our brain is priming the rest of its digestive partners! I’m being cheeky but I’m also completely serious. Ideally, we would all slow down at mealtimes, really noticing how it looks, smells, and tastes.

Maybe we even pause to honor the origins of this food, where and how it was grown, the family and people who nurtured it, and the logistics behind how it arrived at your plate.

Sounds kind of like a gratitude practice, doesn’t it? This is what triggers the cascade of optimal digestion!

Today I want to talk about a food that commands attention: Sambal (pronounced zam-bahl)! A fiery chili paste, perhaps relish (?), that can be either raw or cooked and, at its core, consists of fresh or dried hot chili peppers and their seeds pounded together with salt using a mortar and pestle. It can be finished with additional ingredients like shrimp paste, fish sauce, shallots, tamarind, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, or any spice, aromatic, or acid but, really, it depends on how it is being eaten and the person who is making it. This is why you’ll see thousands of variations and no singular recipe that stands out as “the best” like we tend to look for in our searches.

94

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

...there might be multiple variations of sambal on the table for a single meal at home in Southeast Asia...

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

95

96

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Sambal

(pronounced zam-bahl)

is a

fiery chili paste that, at its core, consists of fresh or dried

hot chili peppers and their seeds pounded together with salt

mortar and pestle. using a

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

97

This is a no-recipe recipe to approach with curiosity and a sense of playfulness!

Something else to consider is that many factors contribute to the flavor and level of heat (Scoville units) of any given chili,

...you can use your favorite blend of get just the right level of heat and such as the weather, the amount of rainfall during growing season, the soil it was grown in, and when it was plucked from the plant. I imagine no recipe could truly ever be duplicated. This is another reason to cook with the seasons and savor our food! Flavor is fleeting but you’ll always remember how you felt when you ate it. If you’re paying attention, that is.

Sambal, which translates to “condiment” or “sauce” depending on your source, has a storied past originating in Indonesia but is served alongside dishes in Malaysia, Sri Lanka, and Thailand, too. Sambal as we know it today dates back to the ancient spice trade when the Portuguese brought new world chiles to Asia, though records show it existed long before as another iteration involving hot spices before chiles were even a twinkle in their eye.

You may have seen Sambal Oelek, a petite jar with a shiny gold label and a green lid, sitting somewhere on the shelf next to the Sriracha

98

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

chilies to d flavor...

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

99

with the famed rooster on it at your favorite grocer. It’s of the same parent company and just as versatile, though markedly different from what you could make at home in under 10 minutes. Though Sambals can be eaten with just about anything, their pairing is more intentional than how we might use hot sauce or even Sriracha. For instance, there might be multiple variations of sambal on the table for a single meal at home in Southeast Asia. I would love an invitation for a seat at that table!

We won’t see ripe, brightly colored chili peppers hit the farm stands until sometime in July, but one thing is for certain, I’ll be flagging sambal recipes in the interim! As a therapeutic food, sambal’s star ingredient, chili peppers, are a good source of vitamins A, B2, B3, and B6. Together these nutrients all support healthy blood sugar regulation… and you thought they just cleared your sinuses!

If you’re inspired to work up your own variation, you can use your favorite blend of chilies to get just the right level of heat and flavor or, if you’re new to picking out hot peppers, ask the farmer what they might suggest. This is how we cultivate community around our foods and bring that experience back to our table to share. Food is certainly medicine but it’s so much more than that!

Kristen Roberts is a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner at Krave Wellness.

100

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

101

102

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

THAT

BEAUTIFUL KICK WE ALL

LOVE - SAMBAL OELEK RECIPES AND PHOTOS BY CHEF JASON WELCH

Sambal Oelek, native to Indonesia, is essentially a raw chili paste that is ground but not as refined as its close relative Sriracha. Simple to make, Sambal Oelek’s versatility lends well to a variety of dishes and comes with that beautiful “kick” we all love. It uses very few ingredients, traditionally red chili peppers, vinegar and salt.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

103

A “SAMBAL”

actually refers to any chili sauce or paste that is made from a variety of chili peppers, with any number of other ingredients added in for flavor. Any chili sauce or paste can be called sambal.

Sambal Oelek be used as a base to make more complex sambals and other sauces, and works best when used more as a condiment or flavoring ingredient than as a direct sauce or hot sauce.

The key to making the best sambal you can make is to find the freshest peppers available or grow your own, and make the chili paste while they are near peak ripeness.

HERE’S A QUICK SAMBAL RECIPE: 1 lb red chili peppers, stems removed. Thai is traditional, but red jalapenos, serranos and cayenne peppers are good substitutes 2 Tb rice vinegar 1Tb salt Optional additions: 2 garlic cloves 1 tsp lime juice DIRECTIONS Add all of the ingredients to a food processor or other grinder. A Molcajete is also great option here.

Grind until a course paste forms. You can strain out some of the excess liquid if you’d like.

Add to a jar and cover. Refrigerate until ready to use.

SAMBAL

Now let’s put that to work in your kitchen

104

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

with some of

MY FAVORITE RECIPES!

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

105

SAMBAL “ “ DEVIL-ED” EGGS 12 large eggs

1 Tb sambal, or more to taste

1/2 C mayonnaise

Kosher salt and freshly ground

1 Tb Dijon mustard

black pepper

DIRECTIONS Place the eggs in a single layer in a wide saucepan, cover with 1 inch of water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes. Transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water to cool completely, then carefully peel them.

106

Dip a clean kitchen towel in a small bowl of warm water. Wipe the blade of your knife with the towel to warm it up and to wet the blade. Slice the eggs in half lengthwise, one at a time, wiping the blade clean between each egg. (The warm, wet blade will give you clean cuts.)

Remove the yolks to a medium bowl. Mash the yolks with a whisk.

Add the mayonnaise, mustard, desired amount of Sambal and salt and pepper to taste. Whisk until very smooth. Transfer to a large resealable plastic bag or disposable pastry bag and snip off one corner with scissors.

Place the egg whites on a platter.

Pipe the filling evenly into the egg whites. Top with chives and a sprinkle of paprika. Refrigerate for 20 to 25 minutes prior to serving.

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

107

108

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

KIMCHI WITH SAMBAL 3-8 pounds Napa cabbage

15-20 cloves garlic, peeled

2 bunches green onions trimmed of the root bits

4-6 inches ginger peeled, roughly chopped

2-3 large carrots peeled, thinly julienned

1 Tb fish sauce

1/2 C Kosher salt 1/2 C sambal

unsweetened pear juice or unsweetened apple juice 4 Tb white miso paste (I suggest Moromi company in CT)

DIRECTIONS Cut the Napa cabbage in half longways, then in half again longways.

Cut the core out of the four quarters. Cut the cabbage into squares (about 2-3 inches square), pop it in a bowl with the carrots. Sprinkle with the 1/2 cup kosher salt, massage so everything is coated in salt and starting to soften and wilt. Fill with cold, chlorine free water to cover and let it soak for at least 1 1/2 hours.

Pour the cabbage and carrots and liquid into a strainer. Let the brine drain away.

Lob off the white bits of the green onions and put them in a food processor with the garlic cloves, ginger, miso paste, and sambal. Zap it on high ‘til it’s smooth-ish. Add in the fish sauce and a couple of slops of pear juice and zap it more until it’s about pancake batter consistency... maybe a bit thinner.

Put the brined cabbage/carrots in a big, anti-reactive (glass, enamel, or stainless steel) bowl. Rough chop the green parts of the onions and add those to the cabbage/carrots. Pour the chili paste combo over the cabbage and wear gloves to massage it all over the cabbage/carrots green onions so everything is completely covered.

Pack super tight in canning jars. CRAM it in there. Add a two-piece lid, but just set the ring in place to hold the lid down without screwing it in place. Place it on a rimmed baking dish to catch any spill-over. Let it sit at room temperature for up to 72 hours, until it is bubbly and fragrant.

Once every day, insert a clean chopstick or butterknife to release air bubbles. If needed, pour in some additional brine to keep all the vegetables submerged.

Store jars on a rimmed sheet in the refrigerator for up to six months, being sure that the vegetables are submerged the whole time. The older it gets, the stronger it will become.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

109

CANDIED BACON 1 C brown sugar 1 Tb sambal 2 tsp cracked black pepper

EQUIPMENT NEEDED baking sheet aluminum foil, silicone liner or parchment paper

1 lb smoked bacon sliced, thick cut DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Line a baking sheet pan with a silicone liner, parchment paper, or foil. Lay the uncooked bacon sliced onto the pan.

In a small bowl, combine the brown sugar, cracked black pepper, and sambal. Stir to combine.

Sprinkle the sugar mixture over the bacon slices, fully coating all

110

of the slices. Using your hands, gently pat the sugar down onto the slices of bacon.

Bake for 20-30 minutes or until brown and crispy. Remove from oven and let cool for 10 minutes.

Check at 20 minutes and if it isn’t as crisp as you’d like, put it back in for the full 30, just be aware it may take a little longer. It’s tricky, keep an eye of the fat rendered

and the color of the bacon. It should be dark red and not black, as soon as it starts to get dark around the edges pull out from the oven.

Carefully transfer the bacon from the baking sheet pan to a cooling rack and let cool for another 10 minutes.

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

111

112

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

MISO AND SAMBAL MARINADE FOR CHICKEN This versatile marinade can be used with any protein you desire.

2 Tb miso paste 2 Tb soy sauce 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 Tb vegetable oil 1 Tb sambal or to taste, the more you add the spicier it will be 1 Tb grated ginger root 1 garlic clove, crushed 6 skinless chicken breast fillets or 1 whole 5 lb chicken broken down into parts DIRECTIONS Marinate the chicken overnight in the fridge.

Mix the miso paste with the soy sauce, sesame oil, vegetable oil, sambal, ginger, and garlic in a large shallow dish. Turn the chicken breasts in the marinade to coat. Cover and marinate for at least 30 minutes in the fridge.

Preheat the barbecue or grill. Cook the chicken for 20-25 minutes, brushing with any leftover marinade at the start and turning a couple of times to cook through evenly

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

113

114

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

SAMBAL MIGNONETTE 1 large shallot minced

1 tsp cracked black pepper 1 tsp sambal or more to taste 1 C rice wine vinegar DIRECTIONS Combine all ingredients and refrigerate for at least one hour to allow flavors to meld together. Shuck some oysters and enjoy!

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

115

116

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Pressed Flowers:

Patience Optional

BY BETHANY TUCKER WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

118

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

o you like to gather flowers from local farms, aside Connecticut country roads, or from the beautiful gardens of family and friends? Pressing these florals preserves the beauty of that moment in time!

My small business, Green Valley Jewels, fashions earrings, bracelets, and necklaces using real flowers, dried, pressed, and preserved in lightweight, glass-like resin.

Each is unique, showcasing colors made by nature!

Elegant drop earrings filled with purple alyssum or a perfect starburst of Queen Anne’s Lace in a pendant… these are dainty, happy pieces!

Want to save your special occasion flowers? My celebration flower pressing service transforms special floral arrangements like wedding bouquets or memorial sprays so they can be kept forever as floral jewelry or a sun catcher.

Flower preservation is wonderful hobby for the person who loves craft and appreciates keepsake pieces. Here are three easy methods to get you started!

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

119

120

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Flower Press SLOW METHOD

Separate flowers into individual stems with blossoms. Lightly pat flower stems and petals with a dry paper towel to remove excess moisture.

Place another piece of white paper to the top of the flowers, cover that with a piece of cardboard, and gently press downward on the layer.

(For large flower heads like Gerbera daisies, I like to cut the stalk right at the base of the flower.)

Continue to add layers of paper, flowers, and cardboard, gently flattening each layer as you go, until you have filled your press.

Add the first layer to a flower press: put down one piece of white paper (if flowers are large I sometimes use two pieces of paper to better collect the moisture).

Once filled, give one last good flattening and secure the exterior straps.

Add flowers in a single layer on the paper, leaving space between each blossom.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

Let your flowers sit in the press for at least 1-2 weeks before you begin to check. Small petal flowers and more leafy objects will take a little less time than thick or layered flowers which can take 3- 6 weeks. Be patient!

121

122

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

123

124

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

FASTER METHOD

Silica Process Use a plastic container large enough so the flowers you want to dry can be spread in a single layer without touching.

Spread a thin layer of silica gel flower drying crystals (available at a craft store like Michaels or through Amazon) on bottom of container.

Carefully place your flowers over the crystals, making sure flowers are lying flat.

Carefully begin to sprinkle a layer of silica over the top of each flower until all flowers are fully covered by the crystals.

Make sure to get silica in all the layers of the flower petals to ensure all will dry evenly.

Check on flowers after 24 hours. When the flower starts to have a paper-like feel to it throughout all the layers it is safe to remove from the silica.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

125

“Pressing these florals preserves th

he beauty of that moment in time! ”

Microwave Press SUPER FAST METHOD!

This method uses a flower press called Microfleur made to go into the microwave. Using it, you can pick, press, and use flowers on the same day.

It’s fast, and the color retention is excellent!

Just like the regular flower press, you will want to separate your flowers and remove any excess moisture on stems and petals.

Begin by opening the press and laying your flowers on the bottom layer which will consist of the bottom portion of the press, the first layer of foam followed

128

by your cloth (which the flower will lay on).

Next add the top layer in this order: cloth, foam, outer part of press.

Flatten your press and secure with the two clamping sides.

Begin to microwave the press with an initial run of 15 seconds at full power.

After this you will want to do at least 1-2 more 15 second bursts in the microwave. Total time will depend on the thickness of your flowers.

For very thick flowers (again, a Gerbera daisy for example) I will do a 30 second burst to begin followed by two 15 second bursts.

Between bursts, you can open the press to check the progress toward drying, and let the press ventilate.

When flowers are done, remove them from the press and lay on parchment paper to dry. Add another piece of parchment on top, followed by a cookie sheet, for enough time so that that flowers fully cool and set shape.

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

129

130

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

In addition to flowers, try pressing herbs or foliage, too. Use your flowers to adorn cards, bookmarks, or gift tags. Iron between sheets of waxed paper and frame. Edible flowers can be used as a garnish on cupcakes or cookies! The whole wonderful world of flowers awaits your creativity!

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

131

BEN KELLER ART

BY ERICA BUEHLER

132

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

MAMA NENA CT FOODANDFARM.COM

RACHEL RIGGOTT PHOTO 133

NIKKO

RACHEL RIGGOTT PHOTO 134

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

seem to find a way back to each other. An array of sculptures and trinkets in your local cafe, a hanging statement print at a special-occasion restaurant, or a hand-painted mural taking up the entirety of a wall each welcome moments of reflection and appreciation. After all, we go out to eat and drink for the pleasures of decadent food and enticing atmospheres and to sit leisurely, enjoy company, and ponder, right?

Pondering is very, very easy when it comes to artist Ben Keller’s murals. In fact, pretty much anything he paints elicits pause and analysis; the striking splashes and blends of colors that look like emotion on canvas and the thought-provoking subject matter make his pieces truly stunning in the sense that for a moment, you simply must stop and stare.

Vividity like Keller’s is often par for the course when art is instilled in someone from a young age. Though art was never something forced upon him, it was offered and encouraged, and a young Keller responded passionately to the tools in front of him, pursuing the knowledge of the craft at full speed. Private drawing lessons and foundational art classes turned into an introduction to painting all between the ages of 8 and 10 years old but it wasn’t until Keller was late into high school that passion really gripped him as an artist. “I would stay after school until the janitor left to use the art department as a small studio,” he says. “Then I started doing a lot of graffiti art in the area.”

And, well, every artist needs a bit of an edgy backstory, right? That irrevocable moment where a linear life suddenly changes course. Unsurprisingly, local law enforcement didn’t respond warmly to what they viewed as graffiti tagging and defacing property. But for Keller, it was artistic expression. Or at least, that’s what it became once he refined his skills to produce wall murals and presented his work to a judge for a reduced sentence. “As soon as I got out, I started painting murals for profit,” he says. Moving to Willimantic and networking with folks like Winter Caplanson and Andrew Gütt aided in finding spaces to paint and Keller spreading the word about his talents.

As did simply churning out more and more work, and expanding his portfolio. “After painting enough walls, working outdoors, and painting in general, I eventually branded myself with a specific style,” Keller says. “So if I get inquiries, most people are already familiar with my style and body of work. But if clients are looking for something outside of my wheelhouse, I will always recommend other artists who I know are a better fit.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

RACHEL RIGGOTT PHOTOS

135

OT O

PH RIGG OT T

RACHEL

What’s more, despite living in a world where brands and businesses are so heavily reliant on incessant marketing by way of newsletters and PR firms, Keller continues to depend solely on organic growth for expanding his business. “All of my business is word-of-mouth outside of social media,” he says. “I give a lot of credit to growing up within graffiti culture, which is kind-of guerilla-style art—putting it in peoples’ faces and forcing them to see it.

Pushing myself and my name.”

Keller’s artistic contributions to the local food scene were largely influenced by his work with New Haven’s Sherkaan Indian Street Food. The team approached the muralist in search of some finishing touches to create a moody, sophisticated atmosphere with a nod to Indian history and tradition; it’s safe to say Keller nailed the assignment. “[The mural] is black and white work,” he says. “It’s always been a focus and interest of mine, working with a limited color palette.”

He also notes that, like many artists, his best results come when he’s given extra freedom to enliven a client’s vision. “[Sherkaan] gave me a lot of free reign in terms of my style.

The owner realized that if he let me shine, the work would be better. When you have an amazing client that gives you that freedom, you wish every client was like that—one who knows that for this person to really shine and to articulate your vision, you have to really let them take it and instill that trust in them to execute it.”

136

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

SHERKAAN CT FOODANDFARM.COM

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTO 137

EVERY NEEDS A BIT MAMA NENA

RACHEL 138 RIGGOTT PHOTOS

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

OF AN EDGY BACKSTORY, RIGHT? CT FOODANDFARM.COM

139

Influence for Keller comes from the sometimes emotional, sometimes mundane parts of everyday life. “People, portraiture, everyday life, it’s always evolving,” he says. “One term that I’ve used [to describe my work] is ‘intentional imperfections.’ There’s a level of distress in my paintings,” he says, going on to say that flowers and floral patterns have been a recent concentration specifically.

“Shredding a flower—taking the beauty of it but bringing in the reality of life, the stress. The influence of everyday life is its challenges, accomplishments, happy times, and sad times,” he says. “It’s a lot of what I’m feeling or going through that’s reflected in my work. There’s a lot of emotion, whether intentional or even if I’m not conscious of it; the final product is always going to be a result of what I’m feeling at the time.”

Often, Keller says “happy accidents” lead to realizations wherein he discovers techniques, processes, or moments in his works that surprise him. He likens the phenomenon to music—playing something exceptional without intending to but never being able to fully recreate it.

“There’s always room for improvising that I factor into my mockups. [The result] is always going to change—it’s never going to look exactly like the mockup.” Keller mentions a current project that had “an almost flat experience,” he says. “But looking at the wall now, there are all these little edits I catch that reflect what I was feeling at that moment or what my hand did on its own. That’s what really makes [a piece] special to me and original, because it wasn’t planned. Each wall is an experience.”

To virtually anyone, the idea of not only doing what you love and expressing yourself for a living but also constantly discovering more about yourself sounds like a dream; and it’s a dream Keller will keep chasing indefinitely. “I have a few projects in the works that I’m waiting to hear back from,” he says, unable to give more away until they’re confirmed.

“But I would really love to do more portraiture. Faces, or more industrial things like trains or the architecture of a clocktower.” He reminisces on his depiction of Cheney Mills, “when silk was really big,” noting that he’s done quite a bit of historical pieces so he’d like to focus less on that area, for now. He hopes to do more surrealism or abstract impressionism, too.

“I love abstraction and realism and representational work and I’ve been trying to blend those together,” he says. “Realism is something I always come back to. It’s my roots.”

140

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

NIKKO CT FOODANDFARM.COM

RACHEL RIGGOTT PHOTOS 141

142

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

SHERKAAN

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTO CT FOODANDFARM.COM

143

Tucked

THE HAPP

BY WINTER

144

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

d Away:

PY SECRET OF

Y REBECCA TOMS CAPLANSON PHOTOS

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

145

OUTSIDE a small apartment in Boston a few years back, a little window box stood sentry against the building, filled with white chamomile flowers, fragrant mint, and spiky chives. Lena Voghel didn’t know it at the time, but this was the beginning of her little store in the Manchester Mall Shopping Center - Window Box Farm.

No, this isn’t the next Terrain popping up next to the Forever 21 at your local commercial complex. Window Box Farm is a tucked away secret that you will find sharing space with antique dealers, cheesecake makers, and crafters of all kinds. The Manchester Mall is a 1930’s era building that has been repurposed for new businesses targeting a unique customer.

Just as independent coffee shops and chefowned restaurants have started filling the store fronts on Manchester’s historic Main Street, small shops and local businesses like Window Box have been taking the opportunity to establish themselves in accessible stalls in the Mall. Shops like Window Box are not just building commerce, they’re building community.

146

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

147

148

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

As Lena walks into the coffee shop just down from the mall, her smile is immediate as she recognizes friends, other business owners, and customers that reach in for a hug, or brighten as they notice her entrance. Her shop sells beautiful hand made products from items found at her farm and others.

However, it is the relationships she offers to those who come in contact with Window Box Farm which seems to be the product she purveys. This is the added bonus you get from shopping at her store.

That’s because Lena is focused on wellness- something that you can try to sell, but more often is found in the stories we tell each other, and the knowledge we pass along, and the care we offer through the process. Her pursuit of this knowledge started as she worked in graphic design in Boston. As she sat in front of a computer for hours on end each day she felt her body weaken, and illness creep in. The stresses of working with businesses and the products they demanded on a fast-paced time frame created a system that was taking from her, rather than sharing with her. So,

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

with the help of her naturopath, she worked to become well, left her reliable income, and told her family she was starting a farm.

Back home at her parents’ historic Tolland house, Lena’s business rooted itself. Plants that fed the body and the spirit were started from seed as she worked by hand to bring the wet soil into

“ Lena left her reliable income, and told her family she was starting a farm.” the shape of growing rows. Vegetables, calendula, marigold, and lavender were intermingled into the previous untilled lawn. Window Box Farm began to become defined and its first season found the business run out of a little roadside farm stand, offering products directly to customers. A small roadside stand wasn’t enough to hold all that Lena wanted to give to the community however, so in October 2021, she moved her dried flowers, infused vinegars and teas to her corner of the Manchester Mall.

149

150

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

151

“A small roadside stand wasn’t enough to

wanted to give to the community however, so dried flowers, infused vinegars and teas to her cor

152

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

Now, rather than creating layouts for marketing materials, Lena is laying out her garden beds. She is arranging flowers rather than staring at graphics of them.

Instead of conference calls, she’s collecting chamomile. And this has not only helped her health, it has helped to grow the wellness of her community.

Beauty and practicality are blended into each corner of the 13x14 space that her store occupies. Hand-made wreaths, and plant inspired art covers walls. Shelves filled with natural soaps and scrubs tempt you to take a moment to consider caring for yourself. And the ceiling doesn’t escape Lena’s artistic perspective. Bouquets of dried amaranth, gomphrena, marigold and strawflower hang from a chain link canopy as vines of bittersweet encircle the room.

Rather than walking into a shop where a merchant is selling their wares, you enter a homage to all growing things that let their life linger even in their transformation.

Lena has plenty of her own products here, but she also includes items from other farms and local makers. Each product she curates has a common trend- an ecoawareness at the core of the product, or as Lena says- “if the business owner is a plant person.” So you can buy tea, honey, hand-dyed cloth, or local pottery that is all connected to caring for the maker’s little spot of land they are on.

hold all that Lena

in October 2021, she moved her rner of the Manchester Mall.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

But if you want to go really local, Lena has the carefully crafted blends that she has made from her farm that is located not far from the store. As all she grows has a purpose, you’ll find tonics and teas made from some of the same products you can find in her summer bouquets: a “Take Care Tonic” made from her own flowers and herbs, a beeswax and lavender candle from her hive, tea blends that aid digestion, and bath salts that are mingled with the healing power of plants. These are items that she has grown, gathered, and used to heal herself as she started the journey to make herbalism the center of her store, but more importantly, her life.

153

154

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022

“Shops like Window Box are not just building commerce,

they’re building community.”

In no way is Lena suggesting her products cure all, or that she has found the answer to every ailment and woe. This was her path that she chose and it has given her great joy and life (which is evident as you talk to her about what she is planning to grow this season). She sees it as a venue for her to care for the earth, and to care for others- if they want it, but there is no strict regimen for everyone to become an herbalist/naturalist. That would create an island, not a community.

She says it best “Herbalism doesn’t have to be a lifestyle. Any little daily support ritual you can incorporate will be beneficial…Think of moments of transition from one thing to the next, ‘what can I do to support myself.’” That’s why her products are accessible.

They are not some complicated equation that will change your life. They taste good, smell good, and look good. It makes you feel excited to care for yourself. You feel good giving them to someone, like you’re letting them in on some happy secret.

So while Window Box Farm will never turn into a global franchise transforming the industry of herbalism and amassing a following of millions upon millions, preaching its virtues of caring for the earth and caring for yourself, it will be something you tell your friends about. You will walk in the store, meet Lena and immediately feel welcomed. This is a place that is for you, and for Lena, and for all the things she grows. It is her little Window Box in the midst of many bare windows. This little farm store reminds you there are those in this world that care, and you are welcome to join that caring.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

155

156 ER CAPLANSON PHOTO WINT

CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2022