Connecticut Food & Farm Magazine, Fall 2020, Volume 21

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

1

2

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CAPTURE CREATIVE CONNECTICUT FOOD AND FARM

PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY FOR THE AGRICULTURAL AND FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRIES

ctfoodandfarm.com CT FOODANDFARM.COM

3

in this issue

ROLLIN’ IN. TIME TO PARTY

KRISTIN L. WOLFE

HOMEMADE VANILLA EXTRACT & VANILLA COCKTAILS

CT WOOLIES

KERI BOUCHER

FOODS OF YORE: LEAF LARD

GENA GOLAS

PEAK:

THE MOST CONNECTICUT THINGS TO DO NOW

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

4

112 84

52

34

6

FALL 2020 | VOLUME 21

DIY GINGER BEER

WITH CHEF DIANA BUSQUE

AMY S. WHITE

VETERAN. FARMER. RADICAL.

COURTNEY SQUIRE

SCENTS OF THE EARTH:

HOW TO MAKE NATURAL INCENSE

SCENTS OF THE EARTH, LLC

PASTORAL: CONNECTICUT ARTISTS INSPIRED BY FARMS

SARAH MAY

A BUTCHER’S FAVORITE CUTS

TINA SIRICO

5

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

196 184

164

150

134

6

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

PEAK

THE MOST CONNECTICUT THINGS TO DO RIGHT NOW

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

7

Although NOTHING about 2020 has gone as expected, the pandemic doesn’t have to stop you from savoring

this season safely! Here’s our contributors’ bucket list of essential autumn activities:

8

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

9

LING M. PHOTOS

10

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

1.

Touring in a vintage car:

Classic Country Drives, of Woodstock, rents British and Italian classic convertibles perfect for cruising the charming, narrow roads of the Northeast corner and other New England haunts. They will put together an itinerary for you of local favorites to cruise to including the multitude of incredible food experiences available…“from some of the best yogurt we’ve ever had, to grass-fed meats, incredible artisan bakeries, wineries, breweries, food trucks, farm fresh heirloom veggies and everything in between, including farm to table fine dining. And these taste sensations are so much more enjoyable on a crisp New England autumn day, the leaves just changing, with the top down and the yeasty goodness of the fresh-baked bread you just picked up wafting through the air as you wind through gorgeous rolling hills on your way to your next delicious destination.” ~ SAM & NIC BOOTH

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

11

2.

Graveyard Photo Walks, Connecticut Wonderful’s Top 5: My adventures with photography began with a love of historical monuments. Since childhood, I could never resist visiting an old cemetery, there was something about old headstones with angel heads or grinning skulls that I found fascinating. There is no time like fall to ramble through an old cemetery with your camera…crisp air, changing colorful leaves, and old headstones, it’s a perfect mix, and with Halloween coming, it’s good spooky fun!

12

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

13

14

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CEDAR HILL CEMETERY (453 Fairfield Ave, Hartford, Hartford): Beauty mixed with history, founded in 1866, designed by landscape architect Jacob Weidenmann, who also designed Bushnell Park. With sloping hills, beautiful trees, and amazing plantings in a park like setting, it boasts unique sculptures and statues that could be in museums. Notable historical figures buried here include Samuel Colt, JP Morgan, and Katherine Hepburn. And you don’t need to go to Egypt to see a Pyramid, there’s one here in memoriam to Mark Howard, who invented the insurance deductible.

GROVE STREET CEMETERY (227 Grove St, New Haven): Founded in 1797, you could spend the whole day here visiting the markers from all the people you have read about in text books. It includes head stones from some of the first settlers in Connecticut. Download a map or self-guided tour. This whole graveyard is shaded so in

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

peak foliage this is a cannot-miss, and then you’ll have the rest of nearby Yale to explore afterwards.

Notable historical figures include Noah Webster, Eli Terry, and Lyman Beecher. Keep an eye out for the Sphinx!

ELM GROVE CEMETERY (197 Greenmanville Ave, Mystic): Wonderfully picturesque with views overlooking the beautiful Mystic River, one of the best places to have a wide view of Mystic Seaport. Started in 1853, here you can feel, as you walk around, Connecticut’s connection with the sea and our maritime past.

Inscriptions on the stones reveal how demanding and dangerous a life on the ocean could be.

RIVERSIDE CEMETERY (496 Riverside St Waterbury): A gothic cemetery with elaborate spires, tracery, pinnacles, and tombs and whose lanes wind around hills until you lose you sense of direction.

Also founded in 1853, it has possibly the best collection of statues

anywhere in our state. Its elaborate Hall Memorial Chapel, circa 1884, is a small, gray granite church with pointed arch stained glass windows designed by noted Waterbury architect, Robert Wakeman Hill.

You’ll need good hiking shoes or a SUV to get around, but it’s worth it.

Save this one for closer to Halloween if you are looking for something spooky.

THE OLD CEMETERY NEAR YOU: Search your town on Google maps and I am sure you will find a least one old cemetery with a unique story to discover. Enjoy walking around your local graveyard and learn a little more about the town you live in. And if you see an American flag maybe spend a moment and read the name out of respect for our service men.

They deserve to be remembered. ~ ERIC HAHN, CREATOR OF THE CONNECTICUT HISTORICAL MONUMENT SOCIETY AND CONNECTICUT WONDERFUL

15

3.

Live Music: Connecticut’s

Twilight Concerts at South Farms in Morris is one of the rare socially distanced concert venues operating today. Picture attendees in lawn chairs, sitting within 8-foot-by-8-foot squares. “In the pre-COVID era, a small town one hour outside of Hartford would not be considered a draw for A-list standups. Yet amid a faltering live event industry, South Farms has served as an unlikely magnet for high-profile acts like Bill Burr, Dinosaur Jr., Dark Star Orchestra, and Warren Haynes.”

- Rolling Stone Find tickets here.

16

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

DIANE DIEDERICH PHOTO 17

4.

Walktober:

Explore your National Heritage Corridor’s 35 towns in eastern CT and south-central MA with hundreds of walks, hikes, historic tales, paddles, bike rides, and farm visits. In this 30th anniversary lineup: Discover Franklin’s remote smallpox cemetery; learn to read the stories the enduring stone walls of Mashamoquet Brook State Park have to tell; join the Historic Thompson Hill tour and tea for Suffragists; taste craft cocoa at ‘chocolate making’ outdoors with a chocolatier; and hear the legend of Maude’s Grave.

18

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

19

5.

Farm Stands:

In addition to selling their own fresh produce, many stands are a destination unto themselves also stocking honey, eggs, pastured meats, decorative gourds, Indian corn, mums, pumpkins, cornstalks, and hay bales.

One of our favorites is Colchester’s Savitsky Farm, a self-serve shop offering all that as well as vintage linens and kitchenware, flowers, farm-made tea breads, pickles, jellies and jams (apple pie jam!), beef jerky, charcuterie boards made with trees from the farm, and birdhouse gourds. Keep an eye out for their late autumn specials on winter keepers like potatoes, onions, garlic and squash. Hayrides are planned for October.

While you are in the neighborhood, also stop in to Cato Corner Farm for cheese, and Hop Culture farm brewery.

20

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

OTHER FAN-FAVORITE FARM STANDS: Farm to Table Market, Woodstock Lapsley Orchard, Pomfret Maple View Farm, Granby Lost Acres Orchard, North Granby Hurst Farms, Andover Buell’s Orchard, Eastford Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm, Sterling Arrowhead Acres, Franklin Maple Bank Farm, Roxbury Holmberg Orchards, Gales Ferry East Willow Farm, Columbia Belltown Orchards, Glastonbury Boho Farm, East Haddam Campbell’s Farm Stand, Griswold Fair Weather Growers, Rocky Hill High Hill Orchard, Meriden Sport Hill Farm, Easton Cugno’s Farm, Colchester Johnny Appleseed’s Farm, Ellington and Tolland Staehly Farm, East Haddam Joseph Preli Farm, South Glastonbury

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

21

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

22

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

6.

Handcraft and Vintage Events:

While most events we look forward to have been cancelled, the Roseland Cottage Fine Arts & Crafts Festival will run October 17 in Woodstock.

This annual event is one of the leading juried fine arts and crafts shows in New England. Browse jewelry, woodworking, pottery, glass, toys, paintings, clothing, metalwork, and more.

Reopened in late summer, The Elephant’s Trunk, New Milford, is, in normal times, New England’s largest weekly flea market, and it’s a biggie even now. Since 1976, treasure hunters, antique collectors, farmers, upcyclers, and deal seekers have flocked there every Sunday through December. The Woodbury CT Antiques and Flea Market runs both Saturday and Sunday, through the end of November. Jewett City’s College Mart Flea Market operates year round, Sundays 9-4, with vendors both inside and out.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

23

7.

Cider Mills:

“A visit to a historic cider mill—the rumbling of the apples through the chute, the churning of the belts, and the rhythm of the work—evokes the simpler times of days gone by... Connecticut can be proud of the few remaining historic cider mills still in operation.” Christopher Pagliuco, Connecticut Explored B.F. CLYDE’S, Old Mystic, is the oldest steam powered cider mill in the United States.

HOGAN’S CIDER MILL, Burlington, has been producing cider in the same classic method since 1912.

THE OLD CIDER MILL, Glastonbury dates to the mid-19th century. Riverview Farms presses cider here at what may be the oldest continuously operating cider mill in the country.

PS: “Yes, you can freeze cider! Take the top off of the cider jug and pour off a little cider so that you leave about 2 inches of air in the jug. Put the top back on the jug securely and store upright in the freezer.” BEARDLESY’S CIDER MILL, Shelton

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

24

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

25

8.

Hikes with a View:

I’ve been hiking in Connecticut for years now – and I prefer the fall season on the trail. Why? Let me … summit up for you: A cool, brisk morning has turned in to a beautiful, blue-skied afternoon. Humidity?

What humidity? You can wind your way through miles of bugfree trails, the sun warm on your back, and watch the leaves fall.

Listen to each one crunch under your feet. There is very little mud. (This year, particularly.) Glowing, at the base of pine trees, are ghost flowers/ghost pipe (Monotropa uniflora) – a pale, white plant that does not contain chlorophyll.

TWO OF MY FALL FAVORITES: In the Quiet Corner of northeastern Connecticut, Old Furnace State Park in Danielson. There’s no entry fee here, but also no facilities. In an easy/moderate 1.5 mile hike with just about 300ft elevation gain, you’ll find yourself with plenty of large, flat rocks

SARAH HAMBY PHOTOS 26

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

to choose from – perfect for social distancing – where you can sit and enjoy lunch, with an exceptional view of Ross Pond and some amazing fall foliage.

Interested in something more challenging? Lion’s Head (1,738) to Bear Mountain (approx 2,316ft) in Salisbury will take you just over eight miles and nearly 1600ft in elevation gain to our state’s highest peak. It is not, however, our state’s highest point – but that’s for another time. This is a difficult but rewarding hike, and you’ll spend time on the Appalachian Trail.

BRING LOTS OF WATER. COVID hiking etiquette: when passing someone on the trail, please give a wide berth, and wear a face covering as you pass.

Also note, it’s hunting season: check before you go to see if wearing orange blaze is required. Hike safe! ~ AVID HIKER SARAH HAMBY

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

27

9.

Corn Mazes

are labyrinths made out of corn stalks. Acres of corn are planted each spring and then paths are cut creating unique designs from butterflies to aquatic animals. Many farms have more to offer onsite, at least through Halloween, such as hayrides, cider, pumpkin picking, livestock to meet, and ice cream.

HOLMBERG ORCHARDS, Gales Ferry – the corn maze is open 9-6 daily, the same hours as pick-yourown apples. Cider donuts are available Thurs-Sun, and the Wine & Cider Barn is open weekends 12-5.

ELLSWORTH HILL ORCHARD & BERRY FARM, Sharon - A 3.5 acre corn maze + Vintage Lionel Train Display with some of the first and largest trains made in the early 1900s to the 1950’s.

CASTLE HILL FARM, Newtown - 7 acre corn maze, leashed dogs are permitted, also pick your own pumpkins, gourds and squash.

FORT HILL FARMS, Thompson - 7 acre corn maze design is a tribute to “Monarch Butterfly.” Flashlight Nights until 10 pm. Farmers Cow ice cream.

THE FARM, Woodbury - a 4 acre “Deep Sea Adventure,” farm stand and snack barn also.

BUTTONWOOD FARM, Griswold - 7 acre corn maze, take hayride, visit with farm animals, or pick a pumpkin from the pumpkin patch.

EKONK HILL TURKEY FARM, Moosup - Travel through miles of corn maze paths, relax on the hayride and visit the animals in the barnyard. Stop by the farm store for fresh ice cream, snacks and sandwiches.

Find more corn mazes here.

28

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTO AT BISHOP’S ORCHARDS

29

10.

Apple Picking:

In mid-October, at Scott’s Yankee Farmer in East Lyme, Empire, Macoun, Mutsu Granny Smith and Ida Red apples are ripening in the orchard. Also visit their farm stand for pumpkins, fresh apple cider, gourds, winter squash, mums, Indian corn, and madefresh-all-day apple cinnamon doughnuts.

Find more Connecticut PYO farms here.

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS

30

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

31

11.

Outdoor Dining

(BYOBlanket): Restaurants are getting creative to extend their outdoor dining options late into the fall by offering fire pits, canopy covered decks with sides that drop to block the wind, and powerful patio heaters.

At The Charles in Old Wethersfield, the lawn is festooned with hay bales, mums, and pumpkins, and Adirondack chairs are clustered around tables warmed by individual heaters. Nearby, Old Wethersfield’s Scarecrows along Main Street (through Nov 1) invites you to walk the quaint village and enjoy looking at the bevy of scarecrows created by local groups and businesses.

32

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTOS CT FOODANDFARM.COM

33

o F of

34

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Y

GE NA LI SA GO NI CH LAS OL Sp ho

by

Y

r a L

tos

s d oo re: Leaf o d CT FOODANDFARM.COM

35

36

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

“It ’s just

like anything else, if you want to have a pure ingredient, start with a pure animal. If you’re going to take the steps to render your own fat and bake exceptional things with it, why use product of poor quality?”

Chef Carlos Perez is discussing leaf lard, in his kitchen at the back of At the Corner restaurant, on the Litchfield green. He’s crimping shut the pastry for a rustic hand pie, surrounding ground beef, sweet potato, and spices with tender, malleable, slightly savory dough.

Marbled among the gluten strands of the dough are chunks of the leaf lard, which had been sourced from Young’s Longrange Farm in Watertown and rendered yesterday in Carlos’ kitchen.

Decades ago, with the misleading marketing of hydrogenated oil as a healthier fat substitute, the use of lard at home and commercially largely fell to nothing. However, we now know the truth about those butter alternatives, and there has been a shift to a farm-to-table, clean eating

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

lifestyle. It is because of this shift we can once again shine a light on lard, to help it make a comeback in our home kitchens.

Leaf lard is the abdominal fat surrounding the kidneys of a pig. It is the cleanest and the healthiest fat found on a pig, and is an unsaturated fat suitable for both cooking and baking. Leaf lard can be purchased already rendered from some local natural food markets and farm stands, but rendering your own from leaf lard purchased from a neighborhood farm is easy and more economical. Leaf lard from a local farm will cost about $3 per pound, and one haul will yield enough rendered lard for a number of recipes or applications.

37

38

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

39

40

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

"Rendering leaf lard is a super

easy process; it just takes some time.. " Rendering is the process of melting fat to purify it and remove all water, giving a product that will resist staling and keep up to a year at room temperature.

Rendered leaf lard has a high smoke point, making it ideal for sautéing and frying, and a lower melting point than butter, perfect for baking. Leaf lard can be used as a one-to-one replacement for butter in both savory and sweet recipes.

Rendering leaf lard is a “super easy process; it just takes some time,” says Carlos.

Unwrap the lard and lay it out on a cutting board. Cut away any residual meat from the fat—the rendered leaf lard should have a nice, clean fatty flavor, not porky like bacon fat. Cut the lard into small cubes, to help the lard melt faster while rendering. Put the cubes of fat into a pot, and add a little bit of water to the bottom to prevent scorching. Keep the pot on low heat for about three hours to fully render the lard. The fat will boil, bubble, and splatter, as the water inside the fat cooks out. When the fat is fully rendered, the activity will stop. The lard will have separated, leaving liquid leaf lard floating with cracklings, the delicious, concentrated fatty bits which can be strained from the liquid and eaten immediately as a snack or, if you can withstand the wait, used as a garnish next Taco Tuesday.

Pour the liquid through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth into a sterilized jar.

Let the lard cool, where it will solidify into a creamy, soft, white fat ready to use in cooking and baking.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

41

Sweet Potato & Wild Mushroom

Meat Pie

Yield 12 individual pies

INGREDIENTS 1 lb ground beef

Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup quartered mushrooms, sautĂŠed 1 cup sweet potatoes, chopped 1 cup onion, diced 3 Tbsp parsley 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp fresh herbs, chopped, (Chef suggests oregano, thyme, & rosemary) 1 egg, plus more for egg wash 1 disc leaf lard pie dough 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Combine all ingredients with the exception of the pie dough in a bowl, and mix until everything is evenly incorporated. Set aside in the refrigerator.

3. Roll out pie dough to approximately 1/4 in thickness.

4. Cut 4� circles out of the dough. Spoon about 2 tbsp of meat mixture in the center of each circle.

5. Brush the outside edges with egg wash. Fold circle in half over the meat mixture, and pinch the seam to seal.

6. Place each meat pie on a greased baking sheet. Bake at 350F for approximately 45-50 minutes, or until the crust turns golden and crisp.

42

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

43

44

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

45

Leaf Lard Pie Dough Yield 2 10” pie shells or 12 4” individual

46

pie shells

INGREDIENTS 2 1/2 cups All Purpose Flour 3/4 tsp salt 1 Tbsp sugar 1 cup rendered leaf lard, very cold 8 Tbsp ice water

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

1. Combine flour, salt, and sugar in a food processor.

2. Cut the cold leaf lard into smaller pieces, and add to the flour mixture.

3. Pulse the food processor until the fat pieces are the size of peas and evenly distributed throughout the dough.

4. Slowly begin to stream in the cold water while pulsing, until the mixture just begins to come together.

5. Empty contents on a wooden table to begin working in any remaining flour by hand, taking care not to over work the dough. You should be able to work the mixture by

hand and form the dough into two balls. Flatten each ball to form a disc.

6. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour, before using for your favorite recipes.

"Marbled among the gluten strands of the dough are chunks of the leaf lard..

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

47

delicious, concentrated fatty bits which can be strained from the liquid and eaten immediately as a s ".. cracklings are the

48

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

snack.. " CT FOODANDFARM.COM

49

Leaf Lard Biscuits Yield 12 biscuits

INGREDIENTS 3 cups All Purpose Flour, plus more for dusting

1 cup leaf lard

3 Tbsp sugar

1 egg

1 tsp salt

1 cup buttermilk

4 tsp baking powder

1 stick butter melted

1/2 tsp cream of tartar

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

2. Combine flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, & cream of tartar in a mixing bowl.

3. Cut leaf lard into flour mixture using a pastry cutter until the lard resembles the size of peas.

4. Add in egg and buttermilk, and mix just until the ingredients are combined. The dough should be slightly sticky.

5. Turn the dough out onto a heavily floured work service. Sprinkle flour on top of the dough as well. Knead until it comes together and does not stick.

6. Begin to roll out the dough to a thickness of 1�. Using a biscuit or cookie cutter, cut rounds of the dough.

7. Place the biscuits on a lightly greased baking sheet, and bake for 10-15 minutes or until golden brown on top.

8. Immediately brush with melted butter when they come out of the oven.

Looking for local farm leaf lard already rendered? Try Copper Hill

Farm in Somers, which regularly carries it in their farm stand.

50

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

51

52

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

by Keri Boucher Winter Caplanson photos CT FOODANDFARM.COM

53

“...the products made from they produce are as un farmers and artists that crea

54

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

C

onnecticut is home to over 6000 sheep. Not only do their fluffy silhouettes among stone walls and rolling pasture add to the charm and character of our state, the products made from the wool they produce are as unique as the farmers and artists that create them. As a fellow shepherd and fiber artist, I’d like to introduce you to some of the most outstanding woolens being made here, notable for their quality, original design, and practical beauty.

the wool nique as the ate them.�

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

55

“Each scarf comes with a tag that bears the name of the sheep that provided the wool.”

56

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Handwoven scarves, Clatter Ridge Farm -

warm, soft wool in earthy natural tones. Each scarf comes with a tag that bears the name of the sheep that provided the wool.

Bobbie Emery and Ann Foss raise Shetland Sheep, a breed small in stature, resilient and hardy, originating in the Shetland Isles of Scotland. Shetlands produce a very fine fleece that comes in over a dozen natural colors. The array of natural colors within the CRF flock enables Bobbie and Ann to identify each fleece to the individual sheep that grew it.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

57

“A new pattern is c 58

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

The Connecticut Blanket - Connecticut

Sheep Breeders Association. A warm woolen blanket in a classic pattern, an heirloom piece.

Each year, over 1000 pounds of wool from Connecticut farms is gathered, sorted and sent for scouring, carding, spinning and to be woven. Finished blankets are returned to participating farms giving them a valued product to sell, adding sustainability to their farms. A new pattern is chosen annually dependent on the ratio of dark and white wool collected. The blankets come in several sizes with a certificate that lists participating farms.

chosen annually dependent on the ratio of dark and white wool collected.�

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

59

Needle Felted Soap, Lyric Hill Farm. Each

bar of farmstead soap has a lightly exfoliating wool wrapper around it, combining beauty with function, two treasures in one delightful package.

“They lov botanicals

Nancy Butler and her family lovingly tend their herd of dairy goats, grow organic botanicals and forage wild plants to procure the ingredients for their handcrafted, cold processed soaps. A layer of the softest Merino wool is wet felted on the soap, then an original needle felted design is added, taking up to three hours to complete.

What you have in the end is a “washcloth” casing made of naturally antimicrobial 100% wool, and a bar of soap, all in one. As you use it, the wool will shrink along with the soap eventually leaving you with a tiny piece of fiber art that can be used as an ornament, pin, or magnet.

60

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

vingly tend their herd of dairy goats, grow organic s and forage wild plants to procure the ingredients for their handcrafted, cold processed soaps.�

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

61

“...durable and warm, must-haves for cold win made from wool grown by their flock of dairy she

62

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

nters, eep.�

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

Boiled wool vests and traditional farmer socks - Beaver Brook Farm, durable

and warm, must-haves for cold winters, made from wool grown by their flock of dairy sheep.

Stan and Suzanne Sankow first took charge of the farm in 1984; it had already been in the Sankow family since 1917. It is now the largest sheep farm in Connecticut running over 600 head of sheep.

Their Frislands and Romneys are used for milking to make cheese, meat for lamb products, and wool for garments. Stop by this farm (9-4, 7 days a week) to walk into a living, working piece of CT history, or shop online here.

63

“...rustic, fun to wear, and as natural as the girl who knits them.�

Woolen caps - Freestyle Fibers, rustic, fun to wear,

and as natural as the girl who knits them.

Abi Cristina has had a passion for fiber and the animals that produce it for as long as she remembers. She’s worked on alpaca farms and currently is employed at a fiber mill. Just over a year ago she purchased her first two Montadale sheep and her farm has been blooming ever since. After, shearing her animals herself, she takes the fleeces to the mill where she processes and spins it into the yarn that will then be hand knitted to make cozy hats. Her flock may be small just yet but her dreams are big and her positive attitude is contagious!

64

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

65

Sweater kits

, Tidal Yarns are the collaboration of Patricia Fortinsky’s naturally hand-dyed yarn and Debra Parcella’s flattering, fresh patterns: Scoop neck, twisted rib cardigans with pottery buttons; drop shoulder, 3/4 sleeve crews with a charming color pop pocket; chill-chasing “Yikes Stripes” Cowls…as easy to wear as they are to knit up! Patricia is the gentle energy behind Tidal Yarns. Walking into her booth at a fiber festival, you are drawn to the colorscape surrounding you. The pigments are earthy and soothing to the soul, every one of them coming from a natural source such as plants, flowers, bugs, and nuts.

Patricia hand selects fleece from small New England farms using sound, gentle and environmentally safe farming practices, and utilizes a mill that has certified organic methods for processing. She works her magic to hand dye the yarn into the colors we love most.

“Patricia Fortinsky’s yarn colors are earthy an soothing to the soul, every one of them coming fro natural source such as plants, flowers, bugs, and 66

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

nd om a d nuts.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

67

Hand felted 100% wool boots, shoes and slippers, BaahBoots. Completely custom made to provide comfort and warmth‌ seamless, moisture wicking wool formed to the shape of your foot.

Elena Anderson has successfully merged heirloom traditions with her own art and craftsmanship to fashion functional, long lasting footwear. She started wearing traditional felted boots (Valenki) as a kid on vacations with her grandmother near the Gulf of Finland. Her boots were old, oversized hand-me-downs but her feet were never cold as she built snow forts and romped around the wintery countryside with her cousins. Her fascination with natural wool footwear never faded. She pursed a degree in footwear design and began using fleece from a local sheep farmer to fashion, beautiful, one-of-a-kind boots that are a treat for the feet.

68

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

“...beautiful, one-of-a-kind boots that are a treat for the feet.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

69

70

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Bohemian shawls and scarves

, Ceilidh House Farms, perfect for cozy winter layering. A dreamy blend of yarns offering different textures and bold colors is sometimes interwoven with tiny beads and other adornments. Shepherd Ricki Heller is both pattern designer and hand knitter of these pieces.

Ricki keeps Border Leicester sheep whose wool is long, high in luster and soft to the touch, perfect for her garments. Raw wool shorn from her much loved flock is sent to a local mill where it is washed, carded and spun into varying yarn weights: bulky, worsted and fingering weight yarns.

“A dreamy blend of yarns offering different textures and bold colors is sometimes interwoven with tiny beads and other adornments.�

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

71

Luscious sheepskin pelts

– Yankee Rock Farm, the ultimate luxury to snuggle into, providing a therapeutic comfort to the whole body.

A chair draped with a sheepskin quickly becomes everyone’s favorite. Siri Swanson and Colin Siegmund breed Finn, Border Leicester and Cheviot sheep. Each breed brings its own properties to the pelts. Finn is by far the softest, Border Leicester locks fall into long shiny pencil curls, and Cheviots provides a dense cushioning shorter stapled pelt. All make spectacular pelts that are divine to the touch.

Both Siri and Colin approach all aspects of sheep farming with a vigorous spirit. In shepherding, as well as running their shearing business, their lives truly follow the calendar of the sheep raiser’s year. Meat, fiber and hides are all utilized on the farm with the highest respect to the animals whose lives have provided those resources.

72

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

“A chair draped with a sheepskin quickly becomes everyone’s favorite.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

73

“Fabric from the Connecticut B to create these cherished 16” ta arms and legs, and sweet fac

74

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Blanket project is used all bears, with movable ces with button eyes.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

Keepsake Teddy Bears & Woolen Catnip Mice – Cold Goats Farm.

Vivienne and Bob McGarry use part of their allotment of fabric from the Connecticut Blanket project to go into creating these cherished 16” tall bears, with movable arms and legs, and sweet faces with button eyes.

Homegrown catnip fills the felted wool mice made on the farm, details such as needle felted eyes and hand spun yarn for whiskers and tails add to the charm of these all natural kitty toys.

75

From my own Iris Creek Farm, the editors of Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine selected as their favorites my

Fingerless Mitts and Felted Wool Collars.

I hand felt wool collars using the long silky locks of my Leicester Longwool and Teeswater sheep. Both heritage breeds produce long stapled, high luster fleece, perfect for taking dye and using in all sorts of fiber arts projects. It’s like butter to hand spin into yarn.

It takes 12 months to grow the perfect fleece for a collar, then gentle hand washing, dyeing and some fussing getting it felted together, plus a silk backing added for comfort and elegance. This is wearable art that will keep you warm and turn heads. They’re almost as pretty as my sheep in the field....almost.

76

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

77

78

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

79

I hand knit fingerless mitts using yarn spun from my flock. They are so practical and fun to wear that, honestly they’re on my hands from September until April.

I’m known for the colors I achieve in my dye pot…tried and true recipes like my MacDonald Blue (named after my Nana’s eyes), Deep Forest Purple, and especially Chartreuse Green. The results are never twice the same and I continue tweaking to see what new tones emerge.

Save the date - April 24, 2021, is when you can

next shop from many of these vendors in person at the Connecticut Sheep, Wool & Fiber Festival at the North Haven Fairgrounds. Until then, I’ve included links above for each fiber artist profiled here!

80

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

“This is wearable art that will keep you warm and turn heads.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

81

82

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

83

84

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

la

hom

il

e

d e va a n m

o

nt

u te b i r

t

c tra d by the me

mb

er s

c

ex

o f t h e Va n i l l a B e a n C o - O p Winter

Caplans on

photos

J e s s i ca C ote c o c ktai l re c i p e s CT FOODANDFARM.COM

85

86

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Homemade vanilla extract

is an infusion of vanilla into alcohol… it’s as simple as combining the two in a clean jar and letting them enjoy each other’s company for 4-18 months…the longer it sits, the better it gets.

While DIY may save you money over the skyrocketing prices of store-bought vanilla, that’s only the beginning of the wonderful adventure (obsession?) of vanilla making!

You may have seen one or a few dried up, overpriced vanilla beans for sale in the spice aisle.

But a world of plump, moist, and fragrant options actually awaits those who source well.

A favored online shopping site, IndriVanilla, regularly stocks fair trade vanilla beans from around the world. Its sister site for the more patient, The Vanilla Bean Co-Op, is a group of vanilla bean enthusiasts pooling their money to get the best prices on vanilla beans direct from growers through group buys.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

87

Ingredients Most vanilla beans are Vanilla Planifolia, often nicknamed “Bourbon” or “Java beans” because of the islands where they are grown. The beans originally grew in Mexico and then were taken to other areas as farmers learned how to pollinate by hand.

The vanilla beans come from a type of orchid; the vine grows on trees for support. As vanilla beans are grown in different areas, they will pick up the notes of the plants growing nearby. Hence the reason beans from each area have slightly different aromas and tastes from each other.

Some vanilla beans are shorter, broader, or lighter in weight (more beans per ounce) than others. But the real magic lies in their unique flavor profiles: Mexican-style

88

Madagascar beans have a smoky aroma. Ugandan beans are rich with notes of chocolate. Papua New Guinea “Tahitian” vanilla beans are more floral and bright.

Indonesian Vanilla Beans smell of cinnamon, cream and butter…the most “common” flavor of vanilla; extract made with these beans will give the familiar flavor bought in stores. Rare Peruvian Vanilla is pollinated by bees, rather than by hand, and is only available in small quantities.

While farmers can’t usually afford the expensive paperwork that comes with an organic certification, Vanilla orchids are so delicate that they cannot tolerate any pesticides and have to be grown in an organic manner.

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

89

90

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

91

Making the Grade Vanilla Beans are graded based on their length and moisture content. Longer, fuller beans are higher grade than shorter beans with less caviar. (Vanilla caviar are the small, black beans in the vanilla bean pod. Adding these to your baked goods brings out a full-bodied, rich vanilla flavor and aroma, and looks beautiful in your batter as well.)

Sources online often mention that the best beans for extract are Grade B beans, this is typically because Grade B beans are cheaper and drier. Grade A beans also make beautiful extract, and if you can get them at affordable prices, they are more versatile.

The lowest grade, called “bits and splits,” are beans that have split open or broken during the curing process. They may also be more dry than higher grade beans. Generally they will not have seeds left inside the open pod, but they make wonderful, economically-priced extract.

92

Alcohol For making vanilla extract, vodka is a basic starting point that adds very little flavor to the extract (aside from the vanilla). 80-100 proof alcohol should be used (no more, no less) which is the same as 40%-50% alcohol by volume. This is easy to find as vodka in the United States must have a minimum alcohol content of 40%. Feel free to use the lowest priced vodka on the shelf, your extract will turn out fine!

BUT there is a whole boozy world out there waiting to contribute the flavor profiles that make them famous! Vanilla-Bourbon extract for your chocolate chip cookies? Like the flavor of molasses? How about a Vanilla-Dark Rum extract?

Is Vanilla-Tequila a thing? You decide! Stronger flavored beans can handle stronger flavored spirits!

Infusing

The FDA defines “single fold” vanilla extract as 2.64 ounces of vanilla beans/bits per 750ml (approximately 25 fluid ounces) of alcohol. We recommend 2-3 oz of beans per 750 mL or 1 oz of beans for 1 cup of alcohol. A lovely extract can be made with slightly less beans but may take longer to come to a usable strength. Double fold vanilla is made using twice the beans to alcohol ratio and is a very deeply flavored and rich extract.

It is not necessary to cut or split the beans. It will make the process go faster, but to preserve the caviar (seeds inside the pod) you can leave the beans whole and just submerge the beans in the alcohol. After scraping the caviar from a bean for use in a recipe, the empty pod can be put back into the extract to keep going.

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

93

94

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Vanilla Extract Ratios & Tips

VOLUME OF ALCOHOL

WEIGHT OF VANILLA BEANS Single-fold

Double-fold

Treble-fold

bottle name mL

liters

cups

fl. oz.

ounces grams

ounces grams

ounces grams

mini/nip

50

0.05

0.21

1.7

0.18

5

0.35

10

0.53

15



qtr pint

100

0.10

0.42

3.4

0.35

10

0.71

20

1.06

30



half pint

200

0.20

0.85

6.8

0.71

20

1.41

40

2.12

60



 cup

237

0.24

1.00

8.0

1.00

28

2.00

57

3.00

85



pint

375

0.38

1.59

12.7

1.32

37

2.65

75

3.97

112



 two cups

474

0.47

2.00

16.0

2.00

57

4.00

113

6.00

170



fifth

750

0.75

3.17

25.4

2.65

75

5.29

150

7.94

225



 quart

948

0.95

4.00

32.0

4.00

113

8.00

227

12.00

340



liter

1000

1.00

4.23

33.8

3.53

100

7.05

200

10.58

300



magnum

1500

1.50

6.34

50.7

5.29

150

10.58

300

15.87

450



handle

1750

1.75

7.40

59.2

6.17

175

12.34

350

18.52

525



Texas Mickey

3000

3.00

12.68

101.4

10.58

300

21.16

600

31.74

900



 gallon

3785

3.79

16.00

128.0

13.35

378

26.70

757

40.05

1135



COMMONLY USED ALCOHOL

vodka: neutral, pure rum: smooth, sweet, rich depending on variety bourbon: complex, deep flavor brandy: unique, heavy flavor

Credit: Bonnie Wessler, Carolyn Farmer, Sara Fifield Anderson, misc. posts in FB Vanilla Bean Co-op Last updated: 6 July 2020

not recommended below 80 proof/40% ABV, not recommended above 100 proof/50% ABV

Single-fold is regular strength, double-fold/treble-fold is twice/three times the strength in the same amount of liquid, popular with bakers.

Beans may be cut, split, bent, or left alone; must be wholly submerged; flavor is from pods.

NOTE: “Bottle names” are per liquor industry naming conventions, and corresponds to metric volumes − not their literal equivalent in imperial (US) units.

Volumes preceded with  are actual named volumes

CITATION KEY

 FDA: The official FDA minimum per previous charts (13.35 oz. beans/gallon; 10 grams/100mL) 

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

House Rule: The shorthand frequently cited in comments (1oz. beans/cup)

95

Use a clean jar with a tight-fitting, non-corrosive lid, preferably one you can reach into, like a wide mouth Mason. Keep the beans entirely submerged in alcohol. Ends poking out above the level of the alcohol are not making extract and have the potential to mold. You can fold or bend the beans in your jar to make them fit better.

Store in a cool, dark place for at least 4 months, preferably a year or more. Shaking your jars regularly to agitate and mix the alcohol around the beans will also speed the process to some degree.

Caviar and other fine things If you use whole beans, you can use the caviar (seeds inside the pod) in recipes such as vanilla bean ice cream, pudding, or Crème Anglaise. Just scrape or squeeze out the caviar and add it to the recipe. You can put the pod back in alcohol to continue extracting. You can also use vanilla beans to flavor sugar or salt - let the beans dry and put them whole or ground in a jar of sugar or salt for 2-weeks or longer and you have vanilla sugar or vanilla salt. You can also completely dehydrate the beans and grind them into vanilla powder which can be used in place of extract in baked goods.

96

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

97

98

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Keeping a good thing going Your vanilla extract infusion can continue for years just by adding more vanilla beans and more alcohol.

Chef Ina Garten says she’s had her brew stored on a shelf in the pantry for almost twenty years! We find we can reuse beans about one and a half times for a batch of good extract.

Our preference is to make a batch of extract, and when it is strong enough for our liking, take the beans out, and put them into half as much alcohol for a second batch.

You may prefer to make one good batch of extract from a set of beans, then use them to make vanilla sugar or vanilla powder, using up the entire bean up to get the most flavor out of it.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

99

100

C

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Vanilla Cocktails CT FOODANDFARM.COM

101

W

hile budget vodka is a good starting point, using fine spirits instead adds sipping potential!

Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine partnered with Litchfield Distillery to infuse vanilla beans with their small-batch, CT-crafted Bourbon Whiskey, Maple Bourbon, Coffee Bourbon, and Vodka. The results were as sublime as you might imagine!

Jessica Cote, of Birch Hill Tavern in Glastonbury, put them to tasty use in these cocktails crafted for autumn:

102

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Bantum Buzz

2oz of vanilla infused Litchfield Coffee Bourbon .5oz Luxardo Orgeat .5oz lemon juice 2 bar spoons of simple syrup 1 dash of orange bitters Coffee beans for garnish Shake all ingredients with ice, strain into a rocks glass over fresh cubes. Garnish with coffee beans.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

103

104

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Vanilla Scented Pomegranate Sour

2oz of vanilla infused Litchfield Vodka 1oz of pomegranate syrup (see recipe) 1oz of lemon juice Egg whites

Dry shake all ingredients until the egg whites begin to create a foam, add ice and shake again. Strain into a coup glass. Garnish with bitters and pomegranate seeds.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

105

106

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Pomegranate Syrup

Equal parts sugar to pomegranate juice, simmer and let cool.

Chocolate Mint Julep

2oz of Litchfield Bourbon infused with cacao nib and vanilla bean 1oz of mint syrup (see recipe below) Pour the mint syrup into the glass, add crushed ice. Add the bourbon and stir. Garnish with a mint sprig.

Mint Simple Syrup

Equal parts sugar and water 20 to 30 mint leaves (you can use any varietal) Let sugar dissolve over medium heat, strain mint leaves, keep refrigerated.

Autumnal Reviver

2oz of vanilla infused Litchfield Maple Bourbon .5oz of Demerara simple syrup with fig and black peppercorns (see recipe below) 1oz of apple cider Teaspoon of balsamic vinegar Dash of orange bitters Combine, top with soda water and garnish with fig and apple slices.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

107

108

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Demerara Simple Syrup

Equal parts Demerara sugar and water ½ cup of fresh or dried figs and 12 whole peppercorns Let sugar dissolve over medium heat. Strain and keep refrigerated.

ABOUT THE BARTENDER: Jessica Cote’s passion for food and beverage started with her time at the renowned Cavey’s Restaurant under the watchful eye of chef-owner Stephan Cavagnaro. Here, her love of pairing food and drink emerged. She spent 16 years as the bar manager at Cavey’s. Now assistant general manager at Birch Hill Tavern, her goal is for each guest to feel like it’s their home away from home, and to have a culinary and beverage program that gives people a sense of satisfaction and comfort.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

109

110

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

111

112

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

food truck catering

by Kristin L. Wolfe Cheyney Barrieau & Winter Caplanson photos

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

113

food truck catering

by Kristin L. Wolfe Cheyney Barrieau & Winter Caplanson photos

114

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Ding, Ding!

Ding Ding!

Can you hear it? Can you feel it?

Many of us have memories of when, as kids, we’re in the midst of summer fun with pals, maybe running through a sprinkler or playing hide-and-seek, and the whole world stops at the sound of an ice cream truck rolling into the neighborhood. Your heart races, you drop everything, and you run. (I certainly did). You arrive at the window of the truck, make your selection, hand over your monies, and receive your treat; it’s like all’s right with the world, at least for the five sweet, drippy minutes between you, your ice cream, and the truck.

Although Food Trucks are no longer new, their concepts keep evolving and the magic emitted from such a small space is still captivating foodies across our state. And the selection in Connecticut is astounding. Not only are there many that are moving beyond their tinny shell to open storefronts, open additional trucks, even create merchandising, but some are now

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

115

116

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

117

“...the magic emitted

from such a small space is still

captivating foodies across our state.”

118

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

literally taking their stardust on the road to cater your birthdays, weddings, and backyard shenanigans. Even before this hits your inbox, there will be new trucks popping up around the corner, and there are more than I could even count already, but here are just a few to scope out and try for your next party.

BUBBLE & BREW

might be the first truck I fell in love with before I even knew what they were. Out of Wilton and often planted at the Farmer’s Market outside the Historical Society, the cherry Jolly Rancher red jolted the kid inside, then the style of the truck just hit a chord. Refashioned and rehauled from a vintage fire truck from Normandy, France, Wendy Fellows and her family put everything into presenting a beautiful, efficient, and environmentally friendly truck. Offering beautiful, luscious, delicious pastries, specialty teas, and coffee, one of the first parties they catered was one in honor of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding. From there, they’ve catered numerous parties, weddings, festivals, and street fairs. Find out more at bubbleandbrew.com

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

119

120

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

CHEYNEY BARRIEAU PHOTO 121

CRAFT BIRD FOOD TRUCK.

Chicken is not always my first go to for some reason, even though I know it is the MAIN ONE for many. However, there’s a reason Chef Eric Stagl and Craft Bird have been on numerous “Best” lists, so I let my guard down. I was sucked in first by, believe it or not, a tempura squash blossom with truffle honey, goat cheese, and pistachios. With a crunch like that, they must know what they are doing, so I went in reverse and then got the chicken and sides. Pickles, Hoisin, Lemongrass aioli, truffle mac ‘n cheese.

The creative combinations are not just intriguing; they work and are a gorgeous punch of flavor. Craft Bird might just slam all chicken sandwiches out of the park with their mountainous pile, full of crunch, and combo of flavors. Using local ingredients, showing pride in their state, and farms in particular, is a giant part of their mission. So, when hosting your next big party, likely filled with chicken lovers, contact Craft Bird; they will roll right up. craftbirdfoodtruck.com

CHEYNEY BARRIEAU PHOTO

CHEYNEY BARRIEAU PHOTO 122

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

“ Craft Bird might just all chicken sandwiches with their mountainous pile, full of crunch, and combo of flavors.”

slam out of the park

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

123

“N

le connotes sim y t s n ple lita o p ea

e

io lic

but d

us.”

124

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

DISCO FORNO. First of all, their

name means party oven. And what is the go-to food for many parties anyway, young and old? PIZZA. Started as a food truck just last year, and recently moved into a store front at Connecticut’s first food hall-Parkville--Disco Forno has been welcomed at parties all over the state and beyond.

Now, I know people get very sensitive about pizza here, and just about all of the places we can go could cater your next event. BUT, Disco Forno has quickly blazed trails in such a short period of time with a real focus on the pie. I love that their menu is not pages and pages long; that they have a few classics and a couple of twists they just do, really, really well.

The dough, the ingredients, the heat, the cheese, the tomatoes, and the timing are key. Neapolitan style connotes simple but delicious and that’s where Disco Forno rocks…..hmm or should we say, hustles. discoforno.com

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

125

IRON & GRAIN. Pals who know me well, know I have a particular love affair with old Chevys. I don’t know, I don’t know, there’s just a draw to the time; the feminine touch of curves above the wheels, and…okay, enough of that but Iron & Grain will roll up all sexy to your party in its 1959 Viking. They’ll add an unmistakable visual ambience, plus delicious food and booze to boot. They’ll make craft cocktails and pour brews; they’ll grill Twinkies and tempt you with bacon jam. Who knew that from a corn farm in Alabama to the main streets and homes around Connecticut, Iron & Grain would be just what we needed to bring the fire, become a focal point, and not just the background, to your next event. irongrainco.com LIFTED SPIRITS. Everything about this new truck says “party.” To be honest, I might have had just a bit too much fun when working with owner Stacey Orecchio on her first mixology video, which was my introduction to Lifted Spirits.

Out of Stamford, but rolling all over CT, Westchester, and NYC, Orecchio and her staff promise to not just “bring the bar wherever you are,” but to let you “work less and party more.” They will create a signature cocktail and deliver it in a fun, creative way. The day we “worked” together Orecchio was making Moscow Mules, and creating a riff called the Maui Mule complete with a bright pink sugar rim, umbrella, and striped vintage straw. bookliftedspirits.com

“Iron & Grain will roll up

all sexy to your party in its 1959 Viking.

They’ll add an unmistakable visual ambience, plus 126

delicious food and booze to boo CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

oot.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

127

I haven’t forgotten about the nostalgic ice cream truck moment…

BLUE CHIP CREAMERY.

Owners Matt and Cristina Zajacs’ courtship revolved around ice cream dates. From there they moved to an ice cream sundae bar, and well, you can imagine how it evolved from there. When doesn’t ice cream make someone happy?

Blue Chip Creamery keeps CT fans happy, and serves the best “blue chip” quality.

Not to mention, they make some of the biggest ice cream sandwiches, a signature for BCC, around. Having a tough time deciding between The Black Sheep with classic vanilla and crushed Oreos, and The Yard Goat, with Mint Chip and little chocolate chips, I just need a bit of the cookies for both. I think my smile was ear to ear, and I was instantly ten again with not a care in the world. Have them roll on in to your next special occasion, or…..just because. bluechipcreameryct.com

NEW ENGLAND APPLE FRITTERS. And last, but

certainly not least, and the aroma I think I need bottled for life: New England Apple Fritters. Likely the grandfather on the list, in business for over 40 years, this family affair just gets it right every time. We often think of them at festivals, markets, and fairs across the state, but DID YOU KNOW they could come to you? That aroma of cinnamon, cooked apples, sugar, and frittery fried dough could be a reality just outside your window and put you and your family in a perpetual state of tasty joy. An example of how to do one or two things and do it really, really, really well is a business model we can get behind. newenglandapplefritters.com 128

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

129

130

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

CHEYNEY BARRIEAU PHOTO 131

And, Heard Through the Grapevine...

QUEENIE’S COCKTAIL BAR. Just

cut their ribbon on August 14 and promise to make delicious, custom cocktails and bites. Unrivaled out of their vintage truck and rolling anywhere in the state from Simsbury. queeniescocktailbar.com

LOS MARIACHIS ON WHEELS. Who turns down a fiesta complete with tacos, nachos, and authentic margaritas?

Not I. Grab them from Wallingford. losmariachisgrill.com

ALPHONSE’S ITALIAN STREET FOOD. Fresh pasta by the pound and

they jar their own sauce. Nonna would be proud. @alphonsesitalianstreetfood on Facebook

SHAKE AND STIR BAR TRUCK. What? More vintage

trucks coming to you at your request?

132

Let’s investigate. And they even have a list of food partners at the ready. shakeandstirbartruck.com

LIL’ CHIPS PANCAKE TRUCK. Well, it only makes sense that the ones voted the best over and over and over again would stretch their wings and come to you. Out of Orange, Lil’ Chips brings their pancakes and all the best toppings to your front door! Have at it. lilchipspancaketruck.com

BACKROADS SMOKIN’ BBQ.

Well sounds like Ellington is bringing on a huge, smoky, tasty scale for parties and weddings. Check out their comments on Facebook. Apparently they really put smiles on some newlyweds’ faces and that’s something to write home about. @backroadsmokinbbq

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

“Even before

this hits your inbox, there will be

new trucks popping up

around the corner...”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

133

134

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

A Butcher’s

Favorite Cuts: only the best from Four Mile River Farm

by CHEF TINA SIRICO WINTER CAPLANSON photos

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

135

136

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Not all meat is created equal.

Like many Connecticut farms, Four Mile River Farm is dedicated to raising livestock on pasture even though it’s labor intensive and expensive. This provides a better quality of life for our animals, and produces meats with far superior taste as compared to industrial farming. But we take it a step farther with tight control of processing, a whole-animal beef aging program to impart exceptional tenderness and flavor, and a full on-farm butchery led by some of the most experienced butchers in the state.

When I came to Four Mile River Farm from the restaurant world, I was grateful to slip right into place with the Corsino family. Here, Nunzio and Irene Corsino, along with their children Chris Bourne and Amanda Meier, have worked hard to create a small family farm with outstanding customer relationships. I was impressed by the care and attention that their animals receive each day and was eager to learn more about their butchering processes.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

137

ll family far a m s s m, hi t At

“

ins are sacri g r a f ice m

d e fe

138

eage for r c a ore m d n a ing small her

z a r g

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

y t i l a u q r e h g ed for hi

rds . , fl s l e s ocks, and pas

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

” 139

At this small family farm, margin quality feed and more acreage for passels. We interact with each an day, building better knowledge of we spend with our livestock deep makes us strive to really utilize e

Because we keep our numbers low family run, USDA inspected proce that our standard of care is contin and that we get our specific anim is reviewed by an inspector to con standards set by the USDA.

When our animals leave the facili the Four Mile River Farm cut roo of experience between them. I am knowledge our three butchers pos fact we butcher our own animals consumer relationships. We can f side orders of pork, and have grea customers are looking for.

It’s all hands on deck when we pr cutting, packing, labeling, and tra together to make sure our custom

Our butchers’ favorite cuts of mea include those often overlooked by these are less familiar to consume or they don’t know how to prepar I’m here to help!

140

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

ns are sacrificed for higher r grazing small herds, flocks, and nimal in our care multiple times a f every single creature. The time pens our respect for them, which every part of an animal.

w, we are able to choose smaller, essing facilities. This ensures nued through animal harvesting mals back. Each individual animal nfirm that they meet the strict

ity, they come back whole to om. Our butchers have decades m in awe of the sheer amount of ossess, it truly is a lost art. The means we have great direct-tofill ¼ and ½ side orders of beef, ½ at flexibility to custom cut what

rocess, each of us has our job acking inventory. We all work mers have the best product.

at for their own dinner tables y the buying public. Perhaps mers than the more popular cuts re them. Fear not, I’m a chef and

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

141

142

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Our butchers’ favorite cuts: Chuck Eye Steak has a rich, meaty flavor and (surprise!) can be extremely tender…this cut is a great value!

Give it a good ole’ dose of salt and pepper and let it sit in the refrigerator for a couple of hours uncovered. Bring it up to room temp and grill, broil, or sear it over high heat. It’s best served no more than medium (145 °F).

Top Round Steak, a lean and flavorful cut, is most tender when marinated and cooked rare to medium (135 °F to 145 °F). Let it rest for a few minutes after cooking, and slice against the grain in thin strips. Serve a top a salad or with your favorite steak dinner sides!

“

Chuck Eye Steak has a

rich, meaty flavor and (surprise!) can be extremely tender

”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

143

“

I a m

i

n

e h t f o e w a

r e e h s

Beef Soup Shanks are great for making soup as the name suggests, but they are also an unsung hero of the weeknight dinner table. Take your favorite crockpot spaghetti sauce recipe and replace the meat with a soup shank. Let it cook down in the sauce all day, and when you get home it will be rich with fall-off-the-bone-tender meat. Don’t forget about the added bonus nutrients from the marrow of the bone!

And while everyone knows and loves this, I really feel like we don’t give enough credit to the versatile, delicious, and affordable ground beef. Our ground beef is a cut above most because it is made from the whole aged animal, not just scraps and trim. We often use, in our ground beef, cuts that could be steaks or roasts such as the chuck, shoulder, and bottom round.

144

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

a

ur o ge d e wl o n k of

ee r th

y l u r it t

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

c t u b

is

ar t.

o st

h e r s

po sse ss,

”

ount m a

a

l

145

146

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Our ground beef is perfect for burgers, meatballs, meatloaf, American chop suey, chili…the list could go on and on. But what about throwing a little sage, brown sugar, salt and pepper into it and cooking it up with some eggs for breakfast? Or, here is a crowd favorite: cheeseburger pie! Brown and drain 2 lbs of ground beef, add your favorite seasonings and cheese, mix to melt. Fill an 8 inch uncooked pie shell and top with more cheese.

Put it in a 350°F oven and wait for the crust to turn golden and the cheese to get nice and bubbly! Garnish with traditional cheeseburger toppings. I promise, it will be a hit!

Four Mile River Farm meats are available 8-6 daily at our farm stand at 124 Four Mile River Road in Old Lyme, our two pre order markets on Saturday in West Hartford and New Haven or online at fourmileriverfarm.com. There is a good chance the person you speak with at Four Mile River Farm does a little bit of everything here. Sure, we each have our specialties, but it’s the teamwork that makes this dream work!

Tina Sirico has spent almost two decades in commercial kitchens, and has a deep passion for good, quality food and supporting local farms. She lives in Old Saybrook with her wife and 3 dogs.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

147

I was “ impressed

by the care and attention that their

animals receive each day.”

148

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Callouts for Rita: I was impressed by the care and attention that their animals receive each day.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

149

Past

CON

CATHERINE M. ELLIOT T 150

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

toral

NNECTICUT ARTISTS INSPIRED BY FARMS

by Sarah May

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

151

AS AN ARTIST,

I know that creative inspiration can hit at any time. However ephemeral it may be, its influence on one’s art is indelible. We use art to share a calling, a connection, or a message that we feel deeply. For some, the natural world provides an abundance of artistic fuel. Local artists Alecia Underhill, Catherine M. Elliott, Sylvina Rollins, and Joy Newton are drawn to the unique beauty of Connecticut farmsteads. Their work delivers a refreshing perspective of these landscapes, flora, fauna, and those who work the land.

152

We use art to sh

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

hare a calling, a connection,

or a message that we feel deeply.

CATHERINE M. ELLIOT T

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

153

ALECIA UNDERHILL’S

oil paintings bring nature to a graceful pause.

Her depiction of animals and flowers allows the viewer to take a breath, rest and enjoy the pure charm of her subjects. Underhill is a Connecticut native with a BFA in Illustration from Rhode Island School of Design. She has been working mainly as a fine artist (painter) for over 30 years, occasionally doing some freelance illustration. Underhill’s horses and farm animals are welcoming in their compositions, inviting us to share a moment with the creature she has so delicately painted. Often, the animal has filled the canvas, putting the viewer into their space, leaving us to consider what the animal may be thinking. The animal’s stance and soft textures provide personality. Underhill’s works are lit with a comfortable and pleasant temperature, allowing the viewer to be alone with the creature. Each creature appears to have their own story to tell.

Whether it’s a sleeping cat or a tufted cow, the animals are kind and sweet. Underhill states, “I paint domestic animals because I want to convey something about the relationship human beings have with domestic animals, the way we impose our emotions upon them.”

154

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

As Underhill’s animals convey personality and emotions, so do her flowers. Each flower is a portrait, emphasizing their form, their colors and their details. The paintings have the accuracy and details of a photograph combined with the softness and textures only a paintbrush can provide.

The lighting is warm and the compositions are calm yet dynamic, allowing the flower’s stem to guide your eye through all areas of the artwork. aleciaunderhill.com CT FOODANDFARM.COM

155

156

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Simsbury artist

CATHERINE M. ELLIOTT

captures nature as it’s meant to be seen, on its own terms. Elliott’s oil painted landscapes are peaceful and soothing, putting the viewer directly into the setting without disturbing nature’s perfect composition. The artist, who has worked as a professional artist since 1986, honors nature’s ability to compose the uncorrupted arrangement of elements. With views from a cliff, walks through an open field, paths along a hike as well as farms and animals in their own spaces, it is evident that nature is a part of Elliott’s being. Her love for farms and nature are clear in that her paintings praise nature’s ability to use its resources in multitudes of ways. Elliott uses her passion for farms and art to help preserve farmland, “I have raised thousands of dollars over the years to save Connecticut farmland.

I was part of the Connecticut Farmland Trust a number of years ago when we had auctions and raised money to save farms.” Elliott’s work incorporates buildings within her paintings to add to the beauty of the setting. The houses and the barns seem to be one with the gorgeous trees and flowers, as if nature had planted them. “Having grown up on a farm and been employed by one I have a love for farms. I enjoy recording history, especially of older barns.”

Elliott’s focus on the Connecticut landscape, forest lands as well as the shoreline, shows off her connection to the Nutmeg state and all of its visual treasures. catherinemMElliott.com

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

157

Colchester Artist,

SYLVINA ROLLINS,

paints bold and rich oil paintings of animals and “scapes.” Her saturated colors and striking brush strokes show her subjects in a realistic, yet genuinely expressive, style. Rollins’ animals are framed within the work by a background filled with layers of color, highlighting the subject. She paints the animals’ fur with bold transparent chunky strokes that pull the viewer in. Her affection for the animals and landscapes are evident. “Every picturesque farm or scene I see is a possible painting in my mind. I’ve carried a camera like an appendage over the years to catch photos of my favorite spots, cows and sheep, flowers, a box of fresh beets and strawberries on the seat of my car... to file in my favorites and possibilities. I have dubbed myself the Cow Paparazzi!” In each painting she invites the viewer to share her appreciation for these beautiful creatures and to sense their own unique connection.

158

Rollins’ “scapes” are snapshots of splendor.

She captures farmviews in various seasons, waterfronts and bluffs, wineries and wooded views. It is clear that Rollins’ knows and loves Connecticut. The organic textures of the clouds, the land and the trees work together with the geometric man-made structures to create portraits of Connecticut that reflect its charming scenery and ever-changing climate. Rollins says “I live on a small farm with my family, I love my morning chores and the morning light on everything from my horse’s mane to the roses in front of the hay barn. Nostalgically, I crave my childhood days on my Mom and Dad’s Colchester farm with cows grazing followed by little birds, a barn cat, a farm dog, picking fresh black raspberries by the mailbox, the scent of fresh cut silage and following my Dad around as he fed the Herefords, Holsteins, Angus, Jerseys, even Charlois.” This is all reflected in her enchanting works. sylvinarollinsart.com CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

159

If you’re looking to get lost on an Instagram page, I am guiding you to the page of

JOY NEWTON Newton’s artwork and perspective of nature are so genuinely beautiful and inviting you will want to infinitely scroll. Newton, who resides in a 230 year old carriage house and former dairy barn, is an artist whose love and affinity for nature are apparent the second you encounter her and her work. “Joy Newton is a missiondriven design studio and lifestyle company that connects agriculture and art in consciousliving home spaces. Based in Connecticut, in

160

the foothills of the beautiful Berkshires, we are deeply connected and inspired by farming and the natural world.” Newton’s artworks of fruits, vegetables, insects, farm animals, foliage and flowers are stunning. A graduate of The School of the Art Institute of Chicago and Parsons School of Design, her work is defined by her lovely, flowing lines. Her colors are rich, warm and exquisite. The hues dance behind their linear image yet allow the lines to be the star of the

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

work. Her work is a clear reflection of how Newton must see the world; celebrating and glorifying nature’s organic imperfections.

Newton reflects on her love for nature, “I was lovingly immersed in the early farmers’ market culture from an early age by my creative, health-conscious parents and their passion for fresh produce, fish, grains, and more in our home. This experience profoundly shaped me as an artist and my company mission.” Newton’s aim is to show “the simple pleasures of the land and sea and the farmers who share their locally and lovingly tended harvest.” On Newton’s webpage, you can see her elegant eco-conscious products of silk screened table linens, quilts and wall hangings. Follow along on Instagram and you can be privy to the behind the scenes as Newton shares as she is formulating ideas, creating sketches and testing color swatches that reflect nature’s glorious pigments. “I begin the design process through ‘field note’ sketches in pencil and watercolor, and a surface pattern emerges printed by a hand-pulled silkscreen process.” Newton shares photos of farms and plants and berries which alone are stunning only to be followed by her distinct artistic portrayal of the subject. Newton’s drawings, watercolors and prints transfer seamlessly to all of her products. Newton’s mission to educate about and protect nature is reflected in one of her most popular products, the flax linen towels and napkins, “linen is inherently eco-friendly.

The short growing cycle of flax – the plant from which linen is made – means it is quickly renewable, and every part of the plant is used to produce linen, ensuring zero waste.”

Newton is always expanding her line and this holiday season it will include a series of wall hangings and quilts called, “The Apple Project” inspired by many local orchards and farms. Newton’s artistic translation of the natural world, from chickens to berries to yams to zinnias is distinct, exquisite and serene. joynewton.com

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

161

162

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Each of these artist’s works

Each of these artist’s works shows their own connection and love for Mother Nature and the farms in Connecticut. It is reassuring, as well as an inspiration, to be reminded through art of our glorious surroundings thanks to these accomplished and creative women.

shows their own

connection and

TO SEE MORE OF EACH ARTIST’S WORK:

love for Mother Nature and

ALECIA UNDERHILL: aleciaunderhill.com Instagram: @aleciau66 Facebook: facebook.com/aleciabarryunderhill

Connecticut.

CATHERINE M. ELLIOTT: catherinemMElliott.com Instagram: @cmelliottpaintings Facebook: facebook.com/catherinemelliott

the farms in

SYLVINA ROLLINS: sylvinarollinsart.com email or direct message to purchase art or arrange commissions, Facebook: facebook.com/SylvinaRollinsArtist9 Instagram: @sylvina_paints JOY NEWTON: joynewton.com joynewtondesigns.com Instagram: @joy_newton Facebook: facebook.com/joy.newton.designs

SYLVINA ROLLINS

CATHERINE M. ELLIOT T CT FOODANDFARM.COM

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Sarah May is the artist behind the company Block21Prints. Sarah creates original linocut artwork inspired by nature, animals, lettering and whimsy. Her work is available on clothing, home goods, stickers and stationery. For over 20 years, she has been a Connecticut public school art teacher. Sarah lives in Connecticut with her husband, two children and two cats, Grizzly and Bryan.

163

Scent of the

Earth

SCEN TS W I N TER CA P L

CONTRIBUTED BY

164

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

INCENSE

AL UR

AT

tS

HO

W TO MA

KE

N

O F E ARTH , LLC LAN S O N PHOTOS

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

165

166

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

with fine natural incense resins, woods and herbs you can rediscover how to make incense the way it’s been made by virtually every civilization since before the Stone Age. Incense making is a meditative and enjoyable way to exercise your creativity. It’s simple, inexpensive, and awakens us to the pleasures of earth’s aromatic treasures and our interconnection with nature.

Create recipes that greet the rising sun with a clean and invigorating aroma, entertain guests with exotic fragrances, purify indoor spaces, enhance dream activity, relax with a soft, smooth, calming mixture that eases the troubles of the day, or blend a warm, sweet and seductive mixture to stimulate your sensuality for an evening of mystery and intimacy.

Since antiquity, incense has been used for creating aromatic spaces both indoors and out. Incense has always been deeply intertwined with religious ceremonies as well as the practice of medicine. In fact, the first reported healing practices, recorded in ancient Egypt, exposed patients to the smoke of incense for healing.

Strengthen your connection to nature as soft clouds of frankincense, mastic, storax, sandalwood, cassia, juniper and lemongrass ascend to the heavens! Let’s rediscover the ancient art of how to make incense.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

167

“since antiquity, incense has been used for creating aromatic spaces both indoors and out.”

168

natural incense making • determine the type of incense you’ll make • determine how you will heat your incense • gather tools • gather ingredients • pulverize ingredients (or use powders) • mix ingredients • perhaps a drying or curing time • heat ingredients • ahh...enjoy!

what “type” of incense will you make?

• COMBUSTIBLE INCENSE - used when forming your mixtures into cones or sticks by adding a binding material and a combustible material directly to the incense mixture. One end is lit, the flame is fanned out, allowing it to burn continuously by themselves. This incense is more difficult to make but easier to burn. Makes traveling with incense easy.

• NON-COMBUSTIBLE INCENSE (incense of the ancients) - “loose incense” (just the ingredients themselves, after grinding and mixing) or “incense pellets” (loose incense where soft resins, balsams, raisins or dried fruits and honey have been added to form pea sized “pellets”).

This incense is heated using charcoal, makko or on mica atop charcoal. This is the easiest method of mixing incense but requires just a few more steps and utensils to burn.

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

169

170

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

How will you heat your incense?

If you are making cones or sticks, then burning your incense is straightforward and simple: light one end of the cone or stick, fan out the flame and allow it to slowly burn of its own accord. Note: In some cultures it is considered disrespectful to all that is nature to “blow” out the flame.

If you are burning loose incense mixtures or incense pellets, then you’ll need charcoal or makko to heat your mixtures.

If you are burning incense outdoors, individual ingredients, loose mixtures and incense pellets can be placed directly in a small campfire (best when there are just glowing coals remaining, no flame) or on a hot rock on the outer rim of a campfire, etc.

Incense burning vessel varies by the “type” of incense you will be burning • NON-COMBUSTIBLE INCENSE (loose ingredients or pellets): usually a cup, bowl or saucer shaped vessel filled with ash or sand is ideal (can be made of wood, metal or pottery). Large sea shells, such as abalone, work well too.

• COMBUSTIBLE INCENSE (cones, sticks, coils): again a cup, bowl, saucer or shell shaped vessel works well or one of the infinite number of specialty holders designed for this type of incense works great as well.

We encourage you to choose an incense burner that is handmade or perhaps even enjoy making one yourself. There is an energy to a handmade burner that cannot be put into words as it blends perfectly with the burning of natural incense. This “union” seems to be missing, even reversed, with a mass produced incense burner.

Note: We have found that using a cup or bowl shaped incense burner filled with ash is the most versatile way to burn incense. It allows for every style of burning and every type of incense, except coils, though with a little imagination one could probably work that out as well. The incense burner is most versatile when filled with white rice ash, which allows for burying charcoals koh doh style as well as using makko. You can also use sand or pulverized lava rock in these incense burners as an alternative.

Styles of burning non-combustible incense Let’s look at three ancient methods for burning “loose incense” or “incense pellets”: • CHARCOAL: here we light a piece of bamboo charcoal (without saltpeter or other toxic chemical additives!) and set it in the center of our bowl filled with ash or sand. We sprinkle our incense mixture directly atop the charcoal or right next to it. The charcoal heats the materials and releases the fragrance into the air. This has probably been the most common method of burning incense throughout history.

• MAKKO: makko is a natural combustible material from the Tabu-no-ki tree, which grows in parts of Asia. It is a powdered material that burns slowly but with high heat. An indentation is made in the ash using an ash press then the trail is filled with makko powder and compacted slightly using the ash press again (any small form that will make a one way path in the makko makes a fine ash press).

• MICA: here we use the charcoal method of heating our incense ingredients but with the addition of a small mica plate placed

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

171

172

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

either atop the charcoal or bury the charcoal in a cone-shaped mound of ash by using a flat butter knife or incense utensil. A vent hole is poked from the top of the mound of ash down to the charcoal and the mica is then placed on top of the hole and mound of ash. We then sprinkle a small amount of our incense on top of the mica plate and allow the mica to heat up and release the fragrances of our incense materials. This method will produce very little smoke yet still fill the room with rich fragrance.

This method originates from Japan and is used for during their Koh doh and Kumiko ceremonies.

Note: We burn our own loose incense mixtures using

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

mostly the mica or makko methods. After use, the ash can be sifted to remove any incense ingredients that may have spilled into it. Unburned pieces can be reused.

Note: Using saltpeter as an oxidizer is a common ingredient in many charcoals sold today. Saltpeter on today’s market is either sodium nitrate or potassium nitrate, both of these are toxic chemicals and warn against inhalation. We recommend using bamboo charcoal or makko to burn your incense. A good way to tell if your charcoal has saltpeter in it is to look for crackling when lit. If it does, it probably contains saltpeter.

173

174

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

okay,

now that you have chosen what type of incense you wish to enjoy and what kind of incense burner you’ll use, it’s time to start enjoying the fine art of incense making.

The first thing we need is to assemble our list of tools and supplies to make and burn our incense.

Tools / Supplies • INCENSE BURNER: filled with ash or sand • NATURAL INCENSE INGREDIENTS:

resins, woods and herbs • BAMBOO CHARCOAL OR MAKKO POWDER: makko is needed if making

cones or sticks or for burning loose incense on top of makko • TWEEZERS OR TONGS: to hold charcoal while lighting it • MICA: if using this style of incense burning (mica on top of charcoal) • COFFEE GRINDER: to pulverize our ingredients into powders or you can omit this by starting with powdered substances - (however the freshest ingredients are obtained if you pulverize them yourself).

• DISTILLED WATER OR FRAGRANT HYDROSOLS: needed if making cones

or sticks • 2 MIXING BOWLS OR FOOD GRADE PLASTIC BAGS: to hold our pulverized

ingredients until final mixing • GRAM SCALE, MEASURING CUP OR SPOONS: to measure the

ingredients in our recipes • DRYING CLOTH OR WAX PAPER:

for drying some recipes • STIRRING SPOON • LIGHTER OR CANDLE • NOTEBOOK: to record your recipes • FOOD PROCESSOR: optional

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

175

Incense Ingredients

Resins Herbs

The starting ground for making fine aromatic incense mixtures is using high quality natural ingredients. Start with some of your favorite woods and spices. Experiment with new substances as you become more comfortable and intrigued with the process. Try to always use at least one resin or wood in your mixture as a base. Visit local herb shops, incense stores, nurseries, etc. to uncover hidden aromatic treasures. Here is a partial list of popular incense ingredients from around the world. Wine, honey, dried fruits and fragrant hydrosols are often used as well. Recipes and suggestions are listed later in this article. All ingredients should be stored in a dark, cool space.

Cassia, Cinnamon Chips, Calamus root, Galangal root, Ginger , Hyssop, Iris flowers/Orris Root, Juniper berries, Juniper Wood, Juniper Tips, Lavender flowers, Lemongrass, Marjoram, Mugwort, Musk Seeds, Orange Powder, Patchouli, Rose, Rosemary, Saffron, Sage White, Spikenard, Star Anise, Sweet Grass, Thyme, Turmeric, Vanilla, Vetiver Acacia, Amber, Balsam - Peru, Balsam - Tolu, Balsam - Copaiba, Benzoin - Siam, Benzoin - Sumatra, Borneol Camphor, Burgundy Pitch, Colophony, Copal-Gold, Copal-Black, CopalWhite, Dammar White, Dammar Brown, Dragon’s Blood, Elemi, Frankincense, Galbanum, Guggul, Labdanum, Hibiscus, Mastic, Myrrh, Opoponax, Pinon Pine, Sandarac, Storax

Woods

Aloeswood and Agarwood, Cedar, Cedar - Red, Juniper, Sandalwood, Palo Santo, Pine

Mixing Ingredients MAKING LOOSE INCENSE If you are not starting with powdered ingredients, then you must pulverize them using a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder. Electric coffee grinders produce too much heat, allowing for the loss of vital chemicals from our ingredients and therefore shouldn’t be used. Also, most resins will break the blades of electric coffee grinders.

If you freeze your resins for a short time (15 minutes or so), they will be much easier to pulverize. We’ve found that resins can only be ground or powdered using a mortar and pestle.

Woods are very difficult to pulverize with a mortar and pestle and really require the use of a hand crank coffee grinder of some sort or simply beginning with powdered woods.

If you are just starting out making incense mixtures, then you should keep the number of ingredients down to three (3) to start, perhaps one wood and two herbs, or one resin, one wood and one herb, etc. As you get used to making incense, you can slowly expand the number of ingredients you use.

176

So the first step is to choose the recipe you will use and gather the ingredients needed.

We recommend pulverizing your ingredients by “class:” by grinding woods first, then herbs and saving the resins for last. Resins, if young and soft, will make a mess of your mortar and pestle and its best to keep freezing them to get them powdered.

We also recommend saving them for grinding last, which allows you to grind everything in your recipe before you have to clean the mortar and pestle. We weigh each ingredient in our recipe after grinding, then keep one bowl for all our dry ingredients and another for all our resins.

Mix all your dry ingredients together first (herbs and woods), separately mix all your resins together then add your resins mixture to your dry mixture and mix together thoroughly. We like to throw the completed mixture into our mortar and pestle again and grind it all together one last time to help blend the aroma of each ingredient into the others.

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

“let’s rediscover the ancient art of how to make incense.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

177

178

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

congratulations!

You now have a “loose non-combustible incense mixture” and are ready to enjoy the aromatic treasure you’ve just created.

We recommend aging mixtures for a couple of weeks so that all the aromatics permeate into each other and produce a single bouquet of fragrances. You can heat this mixture “as is” over charcoal, on mica on top of charcoal, on mica on top of ash under which hot charcoal is buried, or on top of makko.

If you are making “incense pellets” or “incense cones or sticks” then you still have a little work to do.

Making Incense Pellets

It’s quite simple to make pellets from any loose incense mixture. They add a richer fragrance to any mixture and more dimension to your incense making.

There are many choices as to what you’ll use to bind your pellets. Many resins come in a pliable form permitting the “molding” of pellets. Labdanum is often used in recipes of Japan to form pellets, some called neriko, a recipe used in the fall and winter seasons as well as for tea ceremony. Simply combine all other ingredients first, then add them to the labdanum, or other pliable resin, and knead well. Dry these pellets in a ceramic jar with a lid for 2 - 3 weeks.

Dried fruit can also be used to make incense pellets. We commonly use sulfur-free, organic Sultana raisins or dried prunes, though we have a batch drying as we write this where we’ve used dried apricots. Honey is also used in this process as a preservative for the dried fruit, and adds a delightful warm fragrance to a mixture. Honey itself can be used to form pellets from any dry mixture without the use of any fruit or pliable resins.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

We’ve found using about 1/2 - 3/4 of a cup of dried fruit for every 1 cup of loose incense mixture works well. We like to soak our dried fruit overnight in a heavy red wine before using. Once soaked overnight and drained, we add the fruit to our loose incense and use a food processor to blend this entire mixture together. If you do not wish to use a processor, then mix a small amount of fruit with a small amount of your mixture and mash it together with a mortar and pestle and continue this process until all of your mixture has pulverized fruit in it. Transfer the entire mixture to a mixing bowl and drizzle in about one teaspoon of pure honey for every 3/4 cup of dried fruit, knead this together very well. Crumble the mixture with your hands and spread it out on a cotton cloth, cardboard, wooden board, wax paper, etc.

Store it indoors, out of the sunlight, allowing it to dry. You can also form pea-sized balls with your hands and then spread them out to dry.

Drying time can take 2-4 weeks depending on climate and humidity. The mixture should be turned daily for proper drying. Alternatively, you may also place your pellets in a ceramic jar with a lid and allow them to age for up to a year. In Japan, the ceramic jar is sometimes buried in the ground for up to a year. This type of mixture can be burned on charcoal, mica over charcoal, or directly on makko.

179

Making Incense Cones and Sticks Pulverizing your ingredients into a very, very fine powder is one of the keys to making cones or sticks that will burn properly. Follow the directions above for mixing ingredients as loose incense but grind everything to an ultra-fine powder.

There are many ways to make cones and sticks, some people use gum arabic or tragacanth to bind their sticks or cones. They mix this with charcoal or saltpeter to gain combustion. As stated in our “styles of burning” section above, we recommend against the use of saltpeter or charcoals that contain saltpeter because it is a toxic substance.

We’re sure there are a myriad of other ways to form sticks and cones. We’ll share our own method with you, which is to use makko (a.k.a. tabu) to form incense cones and sticks. Our makko is made from the bark of the tabu-no-ki tree, which grows in Asia and is a natural combustible material that is also water soluble. When added to loose incense mixtures with a small amount of distilled water or hydrosol, makko allows for the forming of incense cones or sticks. Because it is water soluble, the exact amount of makko to add to a mixture depends on the humidity of your environment and the amount of resins and woods in your mixture.

First we recommend letting your “loose incense mixture” sit at least overnight to allow the ingredients to “blend” together. Once aged a day or more, you are then ready to add your makko and form the incense into whatever shapes you desire. We recommend testing a small amount of your mixture first. You’ll need a mixing bowl, your hands and either distilled water or a fragrant hydrosol and wax paper. If you have a mixture with no resins in it, then you will most likely need to add only between 10 - 25% of makko to your mixture. (i.e.: If you use 4 tablespoons of loose mixture, try adding 1/2 - 1 tablespoon of makko). If you have resins in your mixture then you may need 25 - 80% makko in your mixture. You’ll have to play with this yourself to see what works with your particular mixture and in your particular climate. We highly recommend you record in a notebook the exact measurements of your recipes so you can recreate the ones that come our perfectly and adjust those that don’t.

Very slowly... add a little water and mix with your hands, you want the mixture to become gummy and pliable yet still hold form as you mold it. Using your hands, knead the mixture very, very well then form it into cones or sticks. Cones are relatively easy to form. To make sticks, use a piece of wax paper on a flat surface and roll the mixture into sticks with your hands. You may also wish to obtain blank bamboo sticks that have absolutely no additives and roll your mixture onto the sticks. Allow your cones or sticks to dry at least a couple of weeks - again this depends on climate. You want to keep them away from sunlight and heat during this time. Sticks will dry faster than cones. Cones you can tell are dry by turning them upside down and looking to see if there is any color difference in the center of the bottom compared to the outer edges. Once dry, light one of your creations and see how it burns and smells. If it doesn’t burn steadily, then you need to increase the amount of makko to the mixture. If you think it burns too fast, then decrease the makko content. A great thing about this method is you can grind up any cones or sticks that didn’t come out right and adjust the makko content by adding more makko or more loose incense mixture to them, a little water and begin...

180

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

181

Incense Recipes

Here’s a list of recipes to get you started, have fun experimenting and enjoying new mixtures.

1 part storax 1 part frankincense 1 part cassia 1 part sandalwood

2 parts sandalwood 1 part frankincense 1 part mastic 1 part lemongrass

2 parts frankincense 1 part myrrh 1 part cedar 1/4 part pinion pine

2 parts frankincense 1 part myrrh 1 part mastic 1/2 part coriander

2 parts frankincense 1 part sandalwood 1 part aloeswood 1 part clove 1 part cinnamon

2 part sandalwood 1 part galangal 1 part myrrh 1/2 part cinnamon 1/2 part borneol

3 parts gold copal 1 part dark copal 1 part myrrh 1 part balsam of tolu 1/2 part vanilla

2 parts sandalwood 1 part benzoin 1 part star anise 1 part cassia 1/2 part rose mallow seeds

1 part sandalwood 1/2 part cassia 1/2 part clove

2 parts sandalwood 1 part mastic 1 part myrrh 1 part cinnamon bark 1 part spikenard handful of dried rose petals

4 parts juniper tips 2 parts white sage 2 parts sweet grass

2 parts cedar 1 part vetiver 1 part lavender flowers 1/2 part benzoin handful of dried rose petals

scents of the earth

stocks resins, botanicals, powders, essential oils, and other incense making supplies imported from around the globe. They have trusted vendors from whom they’ve been sourcing ethically harvested materials for nearly two decades. scents-of-earth.com

182

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

183

VETERAN.

FARMER.

RADICAL.

by Courtney Squire

184

Kate Lussier photos

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

rad·i·cal | \ ˈra-di-kəl \

(1) of or growing from the root of a plant; (2) of or relating to the origin; (3) favoring extreme changes in existing views, habits, conditions, or institutions

Radical Roots Farm in Canterbury, Connecticut, is the very definition of radical. Their heritage breeds of livestock harken back to the days of a simpler way of living and eating, closer to our roots as a young nation full of small family farms.

Their regenerative agricultural practices display a stark contrast to what farming has looked like for the last eighty years in America, when chemical inputs and fossil-fuel driven machinery became commonplace. Radical Roots Farm uses little to no machinery, nor chemical inputs on their land, utilizes a truly open pasture system to raise their meat, and works tirelessly to give more back to the land than they take.

Radical Roots Farm might have sprouted from the rural countryside of Connecticut’s Quiet Corner, but was born as an idea halfway across the world, along the tumultuous

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

Afghansitan-Pakistan border. A veteran with the Army who served in Afghanistan in 2010-2011, owner Ryan Salvas experienced a transformation of conscience while serving our country at war.

He was immersed totally and completely in the village way of life in a place that is a total juxtaposition to life in America.

Things were more primitive in most ways, yet felt more authentic and more beautiful on so many other levels. Shepherds floated freely with their livestock- not constrained by personal property borders and ownership claims.

Villagers still practiced an economy of trade and barter, not reliant wholly upon money and the paper dollar, and always put the well-being of the community first. The differences were a stark comparison between the simplistic, yet viscerally human way of life in the Middle East versus the fast-paced lifestyle that begets American consumerism.

185

186

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

"A VETERAN WITH THE ARMY WHO SERVED IN AFGHANISTAN IN 20102011, OWNER RYAN SALVAS EXPERIENCED A TRANSFORMATION OF CONSCIENCE WHILE SERVING OUR COUNTRY AT WAR."

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

This life-changing experience formed the foundation for what is now Radical Roots Farm, and brought Ryan and his wife Alycia on a journey to create a healthier lifestyle for their now four children. Ryan says that, “It reminded me that we have to get back to the basics herecaring about one another and focusing on our communities’ needs.”

So, in 2015, the Salvas family moved to a five-acre farm in Canterbury and planted an orchard, and started to establish populations of the heritage breeds of livestock that now make their home on the farm.

Self-taught city-dwellers for most of their lives, Ryan and Alycia have found inspiration from the likes of modern-day pioneers like Joel Salatin, Ben Falk, and Geoff Lawton, among others. These notable farmers (and authors) draw upon age-old practices that are finding a foothold in the current small-scale farming landscape of regenerative agriculture. Implementing techniques such as no-till, cover-cropping, mulching, and shunning the use of chemicals, regenerative agriculture recalls the days before synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides were the norm. It is reminiscent of a time when people relied on having a relationship with the land in order to survive and feed themselves. Yet over the past eighty years, this way of growing and producing food has taken a backseat to the development of large-scale, chemical-heavy, and energy-intensive agricultural methods that are a far cry from our true agricultural origins as a nation. Regenerative agriculture is almost a radical change to what we all know, and how

187

food commonly makes its way to our plate in America. Yet it is how things used to be before we lost our relationship to the natural order that we are all a part of, a relationship that not only allowed us to survive, but also to thrive.

Following the Joel Salatin method of grazing and nutrientbuilding on their wood-lot pastures, Ryan and Alycia rotate their livestock in a very specific way that not only feeds their livestock, but also helps sow nutrients back into the ecosystem. First, cattle and sheep run through a paddock munching on the grasses that make up their natural diets, followed by hogs that root around, and then chickens and turkeys which eat all sorts of insects in the soil and fly larvae from all the dung the previous grazers left behind (and providing a necessary service of sanitation in the process). The paddock is then put to rest for at least thirty days to interrupt any unwanted parasites from becoming a problem to the livestock.

The animals are all allowed to live, eat, and enjoy life as nature intended. Healthy soils are high on the list of consideration, with intentional focus placed on timing and rotation in order to avoid over-grazing and instead to put more back into the land than the animals take out of it. This is the essence of regenerative agriculture, and runs counter to the more modern farming methods we are familiar with, which deplete soils and rely upon synthetic additives. And it certainly runs counter to most conventional livestock operations that rely on fossil-fuel produced grain stocks, and confinement, to produce most of the meat we see in supermarkets.

Radical Roots Farm goes to such great lengths because the healthier the animals are in their lives, the healthier- and tastier- the final product is that eventually makes it our plates.

They are not only doing this for their growing family, but also in service to their community as well as to the greater ecosystem at large. As Alycia says, “Once we tried our meat, we knew we had something special that more people should have the opportunity to experience.�

Ryan and Alycia have traveled extensively throughout North America to find the breeds they raise. Breeds like the American Mulefoot hog, known for their amazingly tender and wellmarbled red meat, are front and center. They also raise Scottish Highland and Lincoln Red cattle, with their gorgeous red hides and wonderful temperament. This year they were grateful to receive a $5,000 grant from the Farmer Veteran Coalition in order to expand their Lincoln Red herd. The Farmer Veteran Coalition works to assist veterans in pursuing careers in agriculture, creating an amazing synergy of physical and psychological benefits to our valued veterans while also furthering the development of sustainable food systems in America. Radical Roots Farm

188

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

189

"WE HAVE TO GET BACK TO THE BA

CARING ABOUT ON

AND F

190

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

ASICS HERE-

NE ANOTHER

FOCUSING ON OUR COMMUNITIES' NEEDS"

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

191

192

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

is working to create a local chapter of the Farmer Veteran Coalition, and assist other veteran farmers with carving a new path in their lives.

Inspired by the benefits of this organization, Radical Roots Farm has also established a non-profit called Contemplate, Inc. Its mission is multifaceted: it provides “alternative agricultural therapy” for veterans and first responders that suffer from service-related disabilities such as PTSD, traumatic brain injuries, or other trauma, as well as farm-based mentorship with at-risk youth. The idea is to offer a foundation for healing through working with the land, to increase access to fresh food, and to offer educational opportunities that strengthen communities. Locally-based for now, they have plans to expand nationwide within the next five years.

As Ryan, Alycia, and their kids Maia, Kelton, Arlo, and new

baby Ezra continue along on this path for a simpler way of life, they have also evolved to appreciate and work with all parts of the animal- not just the meat. In addition to their highquality meat offerings, Radical Roots Farm also tans hides, carves and decorates skulls (locally-produced Halloween decorations anyone?), renders lard, makes dog treats and dog food, and makes soap- all from their animals. “The wholeanimal lifestyle really came about because we did not want to waste the years of hard work and effort that it took to raise these endangered heritage breeds… we really feel that the animals should be honored in life and on the plate, and should be utilized to the fullest extent.” Leaf lard is a particular favorite of Alycia’s- used as a base for many body products like soap, lotions and body butters, and especially fantastic for baking, she says, “It’s such an underrated by-product of farming!”

"REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE IS HOW THINGS USED TO BE DONE BEFORE WE LOST OUR RELATIONSHIP TO THE NATURAL ORDER..."

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

193

"WE REALLY FEEL THAT THE ANIMALS SHOULD

BE HONORED

IN LIFE

AND ON THE PLATE..."

Radical Roots Farm is surely living up to its name and forging a path that is radically different from modern agricultural practices, yet firmly rooted in our country’s origins. In addition to their meat C.S.A. shares (they are currently taking new customers for their winter share), they also produce live breeding stock (Scottish highland cattle and American Mulefoot hogs), roasting/suckling pigs, rendered lard for soapmaking, and elderberry syrup and plants. Find them at the Armory Farmer’s Market in Providence, Rhode Island, on Thursdays through October, as well as at the Hope Artiste Market in Pawtucket, Rhode Island this fall and winter. Their farm store is open by appointment, and specific cuts of meat can be purchased through their website with pickups at numerous drop-off locations throughout Rhode Island and Connecticut. For more information on Radical Roots Farm, Contemplate, Inc., and the Farmer Veterans Coalition visit: radicalrootsct.com facebook.com/RadicalRootsCT instagram.com/radicalrootsct radicalrootsllc.wixsite.com/contemplate farmvetco.org

194

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

195

196

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

DIY DIY Ginger Ginger Beer BeerChef Diana Busque with

by Amy S. White

Paula Deutz photos

Those first whispers of autumn - a crispness in the air, the colors of the leaves, mums and gourds on the front stoop, and the (usually) friendly arguments over which fall flavor wins. My Facebook and Instagram feeds seem intent on convincing me that there are only two choices to be had – pumpkin spice or apple cider. Well, reader, I’d like to assert that it’s neither. The best fall flavor is ginger. Yeah, I said it. And no, you won’t change my mind.

Ginger is the funny looking, gnarly, bumpy root of the ginger plant (Zingiber officinale) that was domesticated in Asia and made its way west via spice traders in the first century. Today, ginger comes in many forms such as powdered, or ground - primarily used for baking gingerbread and other sweets; candied or crystallized ginger; dried ginger; or pickled ginger, which you’ve probably had when you’ve gone out for sushi. But let’s focus back on that fresh root, which can be found in the produce section of any good grocery store. Peel away that tough skin (I usually scrape it away with a spoon) to find a pale yellow, fibrous yet juicy flesh that can be grated or chopped to add flavor to a variety of sweet and savory recipes. And that flavor is sweetly zippy, warm and peppery, with a wonderfully refreshing aroma. Best of all, this versatile little root is known to possess a myriad of health benefits. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antifungal properties, and has traditionally been used to aid in digestion, either to activate the appetite or to relieve nausea.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

197

I love ginger so much that when Chef Diana Busque, sous chef at The Charles in Wethersfield, told me she makes her own ginger beer, I had to seize the opportunity not only to learn how to do it but also to share it. A few quick things you need to know before we delve into the details of DIY Ginger Beer. It’s going to be a two-part process that can take a little over two weeks, so, as with most worthwhile projects, you must have a bit of patience. First, you will make what Diana calls the ginger bug, or the starter, similar to when you are making sourdough bread. Then, you will use some of that starter to make ginger beer. You can keep the starter alive as long as you continue to feed it.

The best fall flavor

198

is ginger. Yeah, I said it. And no, you won’t change my mind. ”

Throughout the whole process, you should utilize sterile glassware and wooden utensils to avoid adverse reactions to any metals, and use filtered or bottled water that is unchlorinated so that you aren’t adding chemicals that could affect the taste of your final product. If at any time, your bug or beer smell funkier than fermentation or you see evidence of mold, get rid of it and start again. And finally, homemade ginger beer is unlike store-bought in that it will contain a slight amount of naturally occurring alcohol because of that fermentation process. By the way, you don’t have to peel the ginger for this project; the skin assists in the fermentation process so just grate it on a cheese grater!

So, put aside your pumpkin martinis and your apple cider sangrias, friends. Moscow Mules. Dark and Stormies. Fall was made for cocktails using your very own ginger beer as a main ingredient.

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

199

Fi

� h w a t e D k a i m a n l l a i w c a u l l o y n i g g e r bug, or t s ,rst the he st art

er. .

To To Make Make the the Ginger Ginger Bug Bug Starter: Starter: Ingredients: 3 1/4 cups filtered or bottled water 3 tablespoons finely grated ginger (unpeeled) 1 tablespoon sugar (preferably Turbinado) Additional ginger and sugar for feeding the starter

Steps: 1. Put water, three tablespoons grated ginger, and one tablespoon of sugar in a quart-size glass jar and stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar has dissolved.

2. Cover the jar with cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band.

3. Place the jar somewhere warm and dark (a cupboard or linen closet work nicely) for 24 hours.

4. Each day for 7-10 days, feed the ginger bug by adding one teaspoon of ginger and one teaspoon of sugar. Also give it a stir a couple times a day.

5. When the ginger bug is bubbling and fizzing on its own, you are ready to make ginger beer!

200

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

201

202

Fall was made for cocktails using your very own CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

To To Make Make Ginger Ginger Beer: Beer: Ingredients: 3 1/2 cups filtered or bottled water

1/4 cup ginger bug starter

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 tablespoons finely grated ginger (unpeeled)

5 tablespoons sugar (preferably Turbinado)

Steps: 1. Combine all ingredients in a quart-size glass jar and stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar has dissolved.

2. Cover the jar with cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band.

3. Place the jar somewhere warm and dark (wherever you had the starter is good), and allow to

ferment for three days, stirring once per day.

4. After those three days or so, you should start to see bubbles forming at the top. Strain and bottle the mixture in a glass container that can handle the pressure. Be sure to leave a couple inches at the top.

5. Let the ginger beer continue to ferment for another four or five days, until it has built up enough carbonation.

6. Pop the top and enjoy alone or in your favorite cocktail!

n ginger beer as a main ingredient. �

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

203

Behind the Pages

our contributors

Cheyney Barrieau…a has-been model who

is currently eating her way through Connecticut to make up for lost time wasted on runways.

She’s never met a taco she didn’t like.

Keri Boucher fell into fiber art through the

love of sheep. She has spent a lifetime caring for animals in need and still comes home to the question “what’s in the box?”

Diana Busque, Sous Chef at The Charles,

enjoys playing with fire and knives when she’s not fermenting food and binging on gummy bears.

Winter Caplanson, our Editor-in-Chief,

is an award-winning photojournalist who has found her niche in agriculture, food, and handcraft. She believes the magic is in the shadows.

Paula Deutz is an artist, retired banker, skier, and horseback riding instructor who dabbles in photography. She writes, she bakes, she’s Paula.

Gena Golas, a pastry chef, is forever on a

mission to perfect her Thanksgiving apple pie recipe.

Kate Lussier is a nature-loving animal

enthusiast who enjoys capturing images with her camera and lives in Connecticut’s quiet corner.

Sarah May creates original linocut artwork inspired by nature, animals, lettering and whimsy at Block21Prints.

204

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020

Lisa Nichols photographs food & chefs

through her business Bread & Beast Food Photographer. Cramming is small corners is her super talent.

Rita Rivera, Connecticut Food and Farm’s

Graphic Designer, is halfway through her pandemic journey of trying every flavor of Ben & Jerry’s.

Tina Sirico, who spent almost two decades in commercial kitchens, has a deep passion for good, quality food and supporting local farms

Courtney Squire stays busy with vegetable

and flower farming, cooking on her food truck, hanging with her ducks, and loving all things fall in New England.

Amy S. White is a CT teacher, line cook, and

writer. This fall, in those beautiful moments when she’s not working, she’ll be cozied up in a blanket on her front porch swing sipping Dark and Stormies made with homemade ginger beer.

Kristin L Wolfe, a writing professor at NY/ CT colleges, spends a lot of time chasing chefs across the state, or mindlessly playing with snapchat filters.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM

205

206

CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2020