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THE BOOK FOR MEN ; > > : 1 4 C C 4 A } 5 4 4 ; 1 4 C C 4 A } : = > F < > A 4

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STYLE MANUAL ____

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CONTENTS

( PA G E 1 3 1 )

THE BRIEF FOREWORD...............................................................................................................................40 The luxury test.

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN- CHIEF.............................................................................42 On fun and the finer things.

THE ONE ...................................................................................................................................44 A beautiful travel case for precious elixirs.

FASHION SURF STYLE...............................................................................................................................84 Hit the beach with clothes that pay homage to the golden age of surfing.

THE FRONTIER......................................................................................................................108 Trench coats, boots and rugged fabrics for the urban adventurer.

GREYSCALE..............................................................................................................................131 Leave the black and navy for the cold months—grey suits are just the thing for spring.

CATCHING WAVES.................................................................................................................150 <^STa] bT]bXQX[XcXTb \TTc (% b R^^[ X] cWXb bTPb^]zb aTca^ X]b_XaTS QTPRWfTPa

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CONTENTS

( PA G E 1 2 6 )

THE PORTFOLIO THE MCLAREN X-1..................................................................................................................46 A spectacularly unique vehicle for one lucky owner.

VITESS BICYCLES....................................................................................................................48 D[caP [XVWc d[caP UPbc P]S \PST c^ h^da TgPRc b_TRXUXRPcX^]b

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO.....................................................................................................50 1^[S R^[^dab X]eXV^aPcT R[PbbXR bd\\Ta _XTRTb X] cWT STbXV]Tazb [PcTbc R^[[TRcX^]

THE C SEED..................................................................................................................................51 CWX]Z h^dzeT V^c P QXV bRaTT] CE. CWXb ^]T WPb h^dab QTPc

KING PACIFIC LODGE.............................................................................................................52 A rugged West Coast getaway with nature and comfort in abundance.

THE HYT H2..............................................................................................................................54 Thinking outside the case: a groundbreaking watch that uses liquid to tell time.

ASTROLAB TABLES.................................................................................................................56 Twirling gears and sliding panels for your dining room.

THE MERCEDES-BENZ HUNTRESS.....................................................................................58 CWT 6%" 0<6 cPZTb c^ cWT fPeTb X] cWXb _^fTaUd[ ]PdcXRP[ \PRWX]T

GULFSTREAM’S G650.............................................................................................................60 0] PXaQ^a]T cTRW]^[^VXRP[ \PaeT[ U^a cWT f^a[Szb QdbX]Tbb T[XcT

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The

ONE The Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas Whisky Case PH OTO G R A PH Y BY M A R I O M I OT T I

DESPITE THEIR BEST EFFORTS—INDEED, MANY FINE BOTTLES LINE THE SHELVES behind the bar—your hotel does not have your bottle of whisky. Not this bottle. You’re particular when it comes to Scotch, and this one is unlike any other. So you bring it with you, safely hidden away in its crystal decanter. This doesn’t mean you have a “drinking problem�—though you do know what two fingers is supposed to look like—but merely that you do not deny yourself what you love. And why should you? Complete your luggage set with the Louis Vuitton Monogram Whisky Case. Offered in LV’s classic canvas or taiga leather, the case is a remake of their 1955 edition, designed in the days before artisanal ice and heirloom bitters, when preparing a drink was as simple as tipping a bottle. Decorating the interior are all the accoutrements required for the service of a cherished vessel of whisky or cognac: a tall decanter with a crystal top and silver stopper, two crystal serving dishes (for cocktail snacks, naturally), four tumblers and eight stir sticks, also in crystal, and a silver ice bucket and tongs, all (save the sticks) engraved with the LV logo. Because a gentleman should never be separated from the things he loves, ever. $23,700

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: TORI HEART

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PORTFOLIO

THE ART OF MOTION

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or points of reference on the McLaren X-1, we must look to architecture, because there is nothing like this bespoke machine in the modern automotive universe. If you had the means, it would not be impossible to commission Frank Gehry or Renzo Piano to design you a home. At every step of the process, your desires would be the deciding factor, and the result would be something both historically significant and totally unique. So it is for the mystery owner of this magnificent, one-off machine from McLaren Special Operations (MSO). He (or she) wanted a car like no other, and sought out McLaren Automotive to make it happen. The company is the newly reborn road car division of one of the most successful Formula One racing teams. Based in Woking, England, the road car division is known most recently for its 12C supercar—easily the match of anything Ferrari has ever built. But this client wanted more customization than even McLaren offers to regular customers, so Special Operations stepped in. The process began three years ago. “The client wanted a machine that had all the capability 46

of the 12C but wrapped in a unique body,� said MSO program director Paul Mackenzie. The design team was tapped to create something timeless and classically elegant. They drew inspiration from, “the Guggenheim museums in New York and Bilbao plus a Jaeger-LeCoultre art deco clock, an Airstream trailer, a Thomas Mann Montblanc pen, a grand piano and an eggplant.� Styling took 18 months and was followed by a rigorous development program that saw the X-1 undergo extensive aerodynamic testing and stints lapping the Idiada circuit in Spain to hone its handling. Finally, it was fully approved for road use. The body panels are made from carbon fibre, with aluminum rails running down the shoulder line, each machined from a single piece of alloy and then nickel-plated. The paint is pure piano black, with no metallic or colour tints—one of the most challenging colours to paint flawlessly. As for cost, McLaren won’t say. But we would venture a guess that it’s in the same league as a Frank Gehry house. – MATT BUBBERS

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PORTFOLIO

COLOURINJECTED

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ooking at Massimiliano Giornetti’s Spring Summer 2013 Collection for Salvatore Ferragamo, one gets the impression that the man definitely dreams in colour. The collection is a sportmeets-pop approach to summer fashion, with big colours (which Giornetti refers to as “vitamins�) and nary a dress shoe in sight. Giornetti said he drew inspiration for the line from the fast-paced, semi-formal lifestyle of Los Angeles. Giornetti was head of Ferragamo’s menswear division for six years before he was promoted to creative director in 2010. The young designer continues to push the envelope, but his ethos remains rooted in traditional Italian vogue—an attribute that certainly suits the iconic Italian fashion house. Salvatore Ferragamo got his start in Hollywood in the 1920s, where he became recognized as the “shoemaker to the stars.� Today, the house of Ferragamo, while still renowned for its footwear, is also hailed worldwide as one of the leading fashion labels for both men and women. In fitting with this season’s trend towards bright, bold hues, Giornetti’s most recent menswear collection is as colourful and lively as an Eastern bazaar. While an orange pants and teal sweater combination might be too much, even for casual Fridays, pair that sweater with khakis or grey slacks and suddenly your look has just the right amount of pop to it. Or try matching the yellow dress pants with your standby navy blazer. The key is to use these pieces to accent your existing wardrobe, rather than letting them run the show. Your clothes should make a statement, but your confidence has to sell it. – CM

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PORTFOLIO

INTO THE WILD A truly wild getaway at :X]V ?PRXUXR ;^SVT

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idden among the towering trees of the Great Bear Rainforest on Princess Royal Island in British Columbia, the King Pacific Lodge offers a unique take on luxury. The lodge, constructed of indigenous stone, fir, pine and cedar, sits atop a former US Navy barge that is towed down the coast from Prince Rupert to Princess Royal Island at the opening of each season in June. Since the lands and waters surrounding the lodge are some of the nation’s most untouched, the proprietors of King Pacific Lodge have made a steadfast commitment to sustainable tourism, making a minimal impact on the surroundings while allowing a privileged few to experience their pristine beauty. Located 380 km north of Vancouver, King Pacific Lodge is only accessible by float plane. The surrounding forests are home to an impressive variety of vegetation and wildlife, including wolves, cougars, eagles, black bears, grizzly bears and even the elusive white Kermode bear, or “spirit bear.� Similarly, the surrounding waters teem with salmon, humpback whales and porpoises. The unspoiled wildness of the area, however, does not detract from the luxury of a stay at King Pacific Lodge; rather, it enhances it. Chefs focus their efforts on preparing the dailycaught local seafood to the highest culinary standards, melding nouveau Pacific Northwest cuisine with Japanese influences, for a worldclass, yet utterly original, culinary experience. And, of course, should you haul a massive salmon out of the Pacific in the morning, the lodge’s chefs will be happy to prepare it for your supper. In addition to boasting incredible views of the surrounding wilderness, all 17 rooms are outfitted with king-sized beds and deep soaker tubs for unwinding after a long day of roughing it outdoors. And while the lodge’s comforts are enticing, the real attraction lies beyond its stone walls, where visitors can spend their days kayaking, fly-fishing for salmon and trout or hiking amid the towering cedars with one of the lodge’s trained guides. Helicopters are available to ferry more adventurous hikers to summer snowfields high in the mountains or remote beaches. King Pacific Lodge operates from the beginning of June until the end of September and rates start at $4,900 for a three-night stay. – CM

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PORTFOLIO

LIQUID TIME

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ver the years, the world’s great watchmakers have devoted innumerable hours and much effort to inventing new ways to keep water out of their timepieces, developing cases and seals that can travel to the darkest ocean depths while still keeping perfect time. Last spring, one company, HYT (Hydro Technology), introduced their hydro-mechanical watch, the H1, and flipped the whole concept inside out, literally. This year, HYT will reveal its second creation, the H2, at Baselworld, the World Watch and Jewellry Show in Basel, Switzerland. HYT employs a daring combination of innovative liquid engineering and classical mechanical watchmaking to display the time using a ring of green fluid. Much of the technology inside these pieces was purpose-built (HYT holds eight patents relating to the groundbreaking H1) by their horologists and fluid mechanics. The development of the neon green liquid, fluorescein, for this watch was a monumental challenge in itself, with issues like evaporation, pressure sensitivity and viscosity testing the ingenuity of HYT’s engineers. In the world of watchmaking, precision is paramount, and hydro-mechanical watches 54

are no different: every drop counts, and the inner devices must be sensitive enough to measure down to the microlitre. The H2 is the realization of a dream shared by the HYT horologists and the APRP Team (Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi). Its two most visually striking features are the fluid indicator and the two piston-propelled, flexible alloy bellows that propel the liquid through the indicator. The indicator encircles the face and is filled with fluorescein and a clear, viscous liquid. As time flows on, the green fluorescein replaces the clear liquid, with the meniscus between the two marking the hour. The overall aesthetic effect is otherworldly, like something one might see in the dashboard of a spaceship, and with a case 49 mm wide and 18 mm thick, there’s nothing subtle about either of these timepieces. The movement is hand-wound, with a 192-hour power reserve. Both the H1 and the H2 display their inner workings through a transparent caseback. The H2 comes standard with a polished and microblasted titanium case, a rubberized anthracite alligator strap, and a black titanium pin buckle. Naturally, it’s water-resistant up to 50 m. – CM

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PORTFOLIO

SHIFTING GEARS

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his mechanical dining table by furniture designer Roche Bobois offers a brilliantly innovative alternative to the extendable table, allowing hosts to “shift gearsâ€? to accommodate additional guests. The Astrolab, whose name calls back to an ancient Greek invention for predicting the positions of the stars and planets, is a mĂŠlange of steampunk, minimalism and futurism, and is anything but ordinary. With a transparent glass top that reveals the mechanical inner workings of the piece and a simple, polished-aluminum base, the Astrolab dining table is well suited to any modernist space. A remote control triggers the battery56

operated cog system, and two glass leaves slide evenly into place on either side of the table, adding an extra 40 cm of length on each end of the 200 cm tabletop. A smaller coffee table operates in a similar manner, with overlapping, 12 mm thick glass panels that swivel out to increase surface area, with a motion reminiscent of the inner workings of a Swiss timepiece. The table is a square 84 cm by 84 cm when closed, but expands to a rectangular 129 cm by 84 cm. Like its dining counterpart, it boasts a visually impressive mechanical component located atop its walnut base, plus a mirrored top and chrome-plated legs. – CM

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PORTFOLIO

MERCEDESBENZ RULES THE WAVES

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f there were a motorized equivalent of a triathlon that tested automakers across land and water, Mercedes-Benz would be the team to back. In a race over rugged terrain and angry waters, the AMG G-Class and its aquatic cousin, the 42-foot Huntress, would make a formidable duo, and obviously so: they are two of a kind. The G63 AMG-inspired Huntress is the third aquatic triumph to come from the collaboration of Mercedes-AMG, Benz’s performance racing division, and the Cigarette Racing Team, a Florida-based boat builder and racing crew. The cigarette boat’s aesthetic is at the heart of the Huntress’s appeal, and though it was built in less of a racer style than its predecessors—2010’s 46-foot SLS AMG-inspired model and 2011’s 50-foot C63 AMG Black Seriesinspired Marauder—the $800,000 Huntress is 58

by no means lacking in get-up-and-go. Five Mercury Racing Verado 350 SCi engines generate a combined 1,750 horsepower and propel the vessel up to 125 km/h. Its land-bound inspiration, the AMG GClass, is designed to handle rough terrain while offering true luxury to its passengers: a rigid axle, three electronically controlled differential locks and a 5-L, twin-turbo V8 engine keep the machine moving smoothly over broken ground while an interior decked with high-end finishes and cutting-edge technology reminds drivers that this is indeed a Mercedes-Benz. The Huntress, by comparison, is right at home on rough seas with its sturdy superstructure, race rigging and 1,900-L fuel tank. And a sizeable rear seating area and cabin with diamondstitched leather seats and wooden features allow company to ride in comfort, no matter how choppy the water. – CM

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TIMELESS TRAVEL GEAR

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STYLE

here was a time when travel was the destination; when getting on a plane or train evoked a sense of adventure, not ennui; when gentlemen traveled in their best suits and took great care and pride in their suitcases and trunks. It was in this era that great luggage was born—those handsome cases marked a voyager’s status as a well-traveled man who traveled well. Staring at the procession of grubby gym bags and battered plastic suitcases circling the luggage carousels in today’s airports, it seems we’ve lost our way. In today’s jet-setting culture, traveling a couple of thousand kilometres in a day is no longer the ordeal it once was, and as such has become an experience as disposable and ubiquitous as a black nylon suitcase. All is not lost. The elite travel class lives on, and there are stylish, timeless luggage options that retain the dignity and traditional craftsmanship of that bygone era. Globe-Trotter, for instance, is a modern heritage brand producing travel gear that hearkens back to the golden age of long-distance travel. Don’t let the term “modern� throw you; they’ve been making bags since 1897. Their style is uniquely British, and celebrities have touted

First-class luggage for a first-class traveler BY C O LEMAN MOLNAR

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their Victorian-style bags for decades. Winston Churchill carried a Globe-Trotter attachÊ case, Queen Elizabeth II packed her honeymoon wardrobe in one, and today the likes of Daniel Craig and Kate Moss choose to stow their goods in Globe-Trotter luggage. Their cases are traditionally handmade from vulcanized fibreboard (a tough and lightweight material comprising 14 bonded layers of paper), though they have recently launched new leather products, also handmade in their factory in Hertfordshire. One of their latest series is the result of collaboration with the famous French graffitist, AndrÊ Saraiva, aka Mr. A. It’s classic meets contemporary, tradition meets funk, business on the outside and party on the inside—a simple and sophisticated exterior of black-leather trim and chrome hardware, with a vibrant dash of colour on the interior. Swaine Adeney Brigg, another British company, has a history of making luxury leather goods and umbrellas so storied it makes Globe-Trotter’s 115-year run seem like beginner’s luck. Founded in 1750, they are most recognized for their leather luggage, umbrellas and hats. The British royal family has oft used their goods, but perhaps the most singularly famous item is the hat worn by Harrison Ford in the Indiana Jones trilogy. Their iconic Victorian Gladstone bags, named after the four-time British prime minister and well-traveled fellow, William E. Gladstone, are handbuilt by craftsmen in their Cambridge workshop. The effect of the English bridle leather, strap-and-clasp closure, and stiff frame is one of a timeless aesthetic and pure functionality—its beauty and practicality even earned it a mention in Oscar Wilde’s CWT ?XRcdaT ^U 3^aXP] 6aPh and J.D. Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye. Across the channel, Louis Vuitton, founded in 1854, was also a pioneer in the luggage trade. LV hardly needs an introduction, as today it is perhaps the most recognized luxury brand worldwide, thanks largely to their ever-present brown and tan checkerboard Damier pattern. While their modern line ranges from shoes to suits to watches, the brand got its start—and made its name—in the luggage industry. Vuitton began manufacturing canvas trunks that were light, airtight and flat

Previous page: Louis (so they could be stacked), setting a new Vuitton. Above: (left) benchmark in travel. Globe-Trotter, (right) Over 150 years later, LV is still creating topSwaine-Adeney Brigg. of-the-line luggage with variations on the Damier pattern, like this year’s Damier Infini, a men’s collection of leather bags, belts and wallets in dark brown, sunshine yellow, black and an eye-popping range of fluorescents. With LV’s signature check embossed on ultra-soft calf leather, and accompanied by sturdy metal hardware, Damier Infini is the perfect example of a product that has been adapted for modern times without foresaking its original charms. Let the sweatpants-wearing masses fumble with broken zippers and burst seams on their cheap, shoddily constructed suitcases. Globe-trotting may be widespread, but that just makes the stylish traveler—with his tailored clothes and complement of timeless luggage—stand out even more.

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A DREAMER’S VISION OF SWISS PRECISION PROFILE

The magical world of Roland Iten BY C O LEM AN MOLN AR

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oland Iten is an inventor, designer and self-proclaimed visionary who believes that any design can be improved upon. As such, he has devoted himself to designing elegant solutions to problems we didn’t realize we had and creating beautiful pieces we never knew we wanted. Using his discerning eye and bold ingenuity, he has spent years redesigning and reinventing overlooked aspects of a gentleman’s life and wardrobe, injecting them with his own lively and playful aesthetic. That’s what he’s here for: to let us know that while your favourite rose-gold cufflinks may be beautiful, they are no longer the best money can buy. Born and raised near Geneva, Switzerland, Iten grew up in the midst of the greatest watchmakers in the world. You might say he’s genetically predisposed to excel at manipulating tiny screws; a trait his engineer father encouraged from a young age. After studying car design, Iten went on to work as a household product developer before the functional redesign of an umbrella won Iten an award and steered his career towards men’s accessories. Years later, Iten is still employing the same ingenuity and precision that defines the Swiss watchmaking industry to enhance other aspects of our lives. His self-titled design house bridges the gap between luxury and whimsy, between beauty and comfort, between the wardrobe and the toy chest. “What is luxury?� Iten muses from his home in Lausanne, Switzerland. “One part is definitely comfort. It’s very hard to think of somebody in a luxurious setting who is not comfortable. The other part is power.� True. From bespoke shoes to tailored suits to the finest automobiles, they’re all designed with absolute comfort in mind—as well as aesthetics, of course. It was this notion—along with his dreamer’s mentality— that prompted him to design his first creation: a line of belt buckles 72

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ENDURING ALLURE TRANSPORTATION

The timeless appeal of wooden boats BY CO L E M A N M O L NA R

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here is a certain type of gentleman who likes to distinguish himself from the rest. He dresses with care, moves with purpose and demands the best in everything he does. He’s an educated consumer, and when he makes an important purchase, he needs it to be not just of high quality, but exceptional in every way. There are many kinds of boats on the market, and countless attractive options for this discerning fellow looking to spend some time on the water. But many fibreglass or plastic vessels—despite all the latest bells and whistles—won’t cut it for the type of man we’re talking about. He wants high performance and classic beauty.

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A SUPERCAR FOR THE REAL WORLD AUTOMOBILES

For 2014, the Audi R8 is harder, better, faster, stronger BY M ATT B UBBERS

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ork it harder, make it better, do it faster, makes us stronger‌our work is never over,� goes the refrain of the biggest hit from spacesuit-wearing Frenchmen Daft Punk. You can almost see them, teams of hundreds of white-coated German engineers, measuring away the nights in their spotless workshops in Ingolstadt, singing this tune to themselves—a company motto, a mantra—as they optimized every detail of the new Audi R8. The song wasn’t written about them, but it might as well have been: for 2014, the flagship supercar of the Audi lineup is not all new, but rather all better, in every way. The bones of the thing remain the same, though. What we admired about the original R8 is still mercifully intact: it is still the ultimate supercar for the real world. While a boy’s fantasies might involve Lambo 89

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The

VERSATILE MAN A signature fragrance for every occasion Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ ŶŶÄ“ ŶŶ Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ

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ALLURE HOMME SPORT BY CHANEL

Sports are what we do (or watch) in our leisure time, and Allure Homme Sport by Chanel was designed with this in mind. Light and approachable, the composition is fresh, with a core of Venezuelan tonka bean and Moroccan cypress, married with a subtle hint of spice. ($65 FOR 50 ML)

Clockwise from bottom left: Oakley sunglasses ($260) at Europe Bound; Babolat Aeropro Drive tennis racket ($200) at Sporting Life; Nike wristband ($10) at Sporting Life; Montegrappa Parola pen ($170) at Laywine’s; Louis Vuitton Damier leather wallet ($790); Sennheiser Adidas CXC700 earbuds ($150); Louis Vuitton neon yellow key chain ($355).

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The

FRONTIER The spring’s most compelling casual wear matches rugged materials with refined styling Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ ŶÄ“ Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ

PHOTO ASSISTANT: LISA KELLEY; STYLIST ASSISTANT: JULIA PIVNIOUK MODEL: CHRIS TSCHUPP WITH FORD (LA); GROOMING: BETHANY COLSON USING MAC COSMETICS

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WRIST CANDY When selecting a timepiece, there is no shortage of appealing shapes and sizes to choose from Ĺś Ĺś Ĺś ŜŜÄ“ ŜŜ Ĺś Ĺś Ĺś

YOUR SUIT AND SHOES DON’T DO ENOUGH TO TELL PEOPLE WHO YOU ARE. A man is framed by what he wears—and your style can begin or end on your wrist. A watch resides on your arm as a beacon of taste, personality and, of course, success. A timepiece can communicate who you are or merely accent what you already project. Choose a watch with the right shape to fit the man you are (or want to be).

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GEOMETRIC

Sitting between square and circle, the geometric case is one of the most “alternative” watch shapes you can find, available as octagons, decagons, or other shapes that eschew the notion of “round.” These are best matched with all manner of non-conservative dress for the design lover. Try one with a strap for formal attire and a bracelet for more casual outfits. 121

Bulgari Octo Automatic, $9,500 at Bandiera Jewelers; Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Chronograph, $4,625; Concord C1 Grande date, $7,900; GC-3 Automatic, $1,250.

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SEDUCTIVE MOVEMENTS Precious metals, ultra-complicated mechanisms and supreme exclusivity define these peerless timepieces Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ ŶÄ“ Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ

STYLIST: LONI POLKEY FOR THE WALL GROUP; HAIR: NICK MANELOS FOR THE MAGNET AGENCY; MAKEUP: GABRIEL ALMODOVAR FOR SOLO ARTISTS FOR BEHIND THE SCENES VIDEO FROM THE SHOOT, VISIT SHARPFORMEN.COM

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GREYSCALE Sometimes, subtlety makes the strongest statement of all. Let a crisp grey suit elevate your presence Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ ŶÄ“ Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ Ŷ

GROOMING: NATALIE VENTOLA USING CLIMATE CONTROL FINISHING SPRAY FOR TRESEMMÉ HAIR CARE/M.A.C./PLUTINO GROUP DANIEL ONORI REPRESENTED BY PLUTINO GROUP

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CATCHING WAVES Carefree summer days call for a dose of ’60s surfing nostalgia

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STYLIST ASSISTANT: JULIA PIVNIOUK; MODELS: GABRIEL SULLIVAN WITH FORD (LA); JEFF TUTTLE WITH VISION (LA); KYLE LEDEBOER WITH NEXT (LA); NATALIE FABRY WITH CLICK (LA); RED-AND-WHITE SURFBOARDS BY HARBOUR SURFBOARDS (WWW.HARBOURSURFBOARDS.COM); GREEN SURFBOARD BY ALMOND SURFBOARDS & DESIGNS

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THE BOOK FOR MEN

Style Manual SPRING/SUMMER 2013

S T Y L E M A N U A L 195

Style Manual

Contents SPRING/SUMMER 2013 198 The Summer Business Suit 199 The Chambray Dress Shirt + Raw Silk Tie 200 The Woven Belt 201 The Linen Suit 202 The Unstructured Sportcoat 203 Polka dots 204 Suede Shoes 206 The Trench Coat 207 Rain Gear 208 Madras + Seersucker 210 The Navy Blazer 211 Tropical Wool Pants

212 The Polo 213 White Denim 214 Sunglasses 215 The Summer Sweater 216 Patterned Shirts 217 Safari Jacket 218 Swimsuits 219 Beach Gear 220 The Straw Panama 221 The Linen Driving Cap 222 Lightweight Runners 223 The Canvas Sneaker

S T Y L E M A N U A L 197

The Summer Business Suit Repeat after us: the four-season suit does not exist. If ever a salesman slyly pronounces that the suit in his hands can be worn year-round, head in the opposite direction as quickly as possible—all you’ll be paying for is an ensemble that’ll make you sweat buckets in summer and give you frostbite in winter. Instead, when the weather reaches incendiary highs, these are the suits you need for the office, cut and tailored from breathable, ultra-light cloths. They’ll keep you from suffering a heat stroke on your commute, and have you feeling cool, crisp and brimming with confidence as you stroll into the boardroom. Left: Wool-and-cotton suit ($1,595) and silk pocket square ($115) by Ralph Lauren Black Label; cotton shirt ($245) by John Varvatos; silk tie ($150) by Alfred Dunhill; glasses ($255) by Moscot. Right: Cotton doublebreasted suit ($600) by Tommy Hilfiger; cotton shirt ($255) by John Varvatos; silk tie ($195) by Ermenegildo Zegna.

THE RIGHT WATCH

BALLON B LE U DE CARTI E R CH RONOG RAPH BY CARTI E R, $10,300 198 S T Y L E M A N U A L

FOUR MORE TIES TO TRY

DRAKES $180

JACK SPADE $100

MARSHALL ANTHONY $100

MOU NTAI N AN D SACKETT $65

HOW I WEAR IT “I like wearing a raw silk repp striped tie with a crisp, white cutawaycollar dress shirt under a navy cotton sportcoat, with a slightly different navy cotton trouser, to any summer wedding. Add worn-in Belgian loafers and a nylon belt, stir and serve.”

AARON LEVINE VICE PRESIDENT OF MEN’S DESIGN, CLUB MONACO

Chambray Dress Shirt

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Raw Silk Tie

As far as business-appropriate shirt-and-tie combinations go, this is about as summery as it gets—the sartorial equivalent of sipping an ice-cold mojito while listening to a Beach Boys record. Chambray, of course, is a durable fabric with long-held ties to workwear. Recut the consummate blue-collar textile into something more refined and suddenly you’ve got yourself a dress shirt with an edge—lightweight but with a toughness about it that you just can’t get from your typical poplin. The same is true of raw silk ties, whose nubby, unrefined texture will bring a welcome note of rough-and-tumble character to your neckwear collection. Knot one up tight, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the number of colleagues who’ll comment on how fresh and wellattired you’re looking. Two-button blazer ($150) by Nautica; cotton chambray shirt ($465) by Brunello Cucinelli, at Harry Rosen; raw silk tie ($60) by Club Monaco. S T Y L E M A N U A L 199

The Woven Belt

COLOURFUL ACCESSORIES POCKET SQUARE

ETRO $100

SHOELACES

HOOK+ALB E RT $35 FOR SET OF 4

SOCKS

PAU L SM ITH $35

WAT C H S T R A P

From a style standpoint, no area of the body is more underutilized than the waistline. There’s nothing wrong with a good leather belt in brown or black, of course, but why not opt for something a little more daring, with a little more punch? Take, for instance, these handsome woven belts from Anderson’s. Handmade to order in Italy, they have just the right amount of eccentric zip to anchor an otherwise simple look, be it a solid linen suit with a crisp shirt and no tie or an oxford shirt tucked into a pair of beat-to-hell jeans. Belts ($135-$175) by Anderson’s.

200 S T Y L E M A N U A L

J.CR EW $25

The Linen Suit

There was a time, not so long ago, when linen suits held all of the appeal of your grandmother’s favourite muumuu: fusty, unflattering and probably out of style even when it was new. But like other once-decaying relics of the menswear world, a handful of shrewd designers have given the eons-old fabric a defibrillating shock into relevancy. Gone is the tepid shade of taupe and MC Hammer-esque fit, replaced by an unquestionably modern, tailored silhouette and electric range of hues. All that remains of the old regime are the material’s unavoidable wrinkles, which any man with confidence can embrace and own as a mark of stylish bravado. It’s a suit built expressly for those days when you need to look sharp while retaining a smidgeon of breezy nonchalance; a suit for daytime cocktail parties, for dinner dates, for cigars by the lake. Linen suit ($895) by Joseph Abboud; linen-blend shirt ($345) by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather belt ($655) by Louis Vuitton; cotton pocket square ($50) by Tommy Hilfiger; leather saddle shoes ($375) by Plectrum by Ben Sherman.

Against all odds, pleated pants have escaped from unfashionable purgatory— with a couple of conditions: reserve them strictly for suit trousers, and keep the proportions slender and modern.

THE RIGHT WATCH

LANG E 1 MOON PHASE BY A. LANG E & SOH N E $38,600 S T Y L E M A N U A L 201

HOW IT’S DONE: SUMMER SWEATER

N EWMAN, P.

W H Y YO U N E E D A S H O R T- S L E E V E D HENLEY

Sunglasses Say hello to your new weekend shades. Conceived by the Italian sunglass virtuosos at RetroSuperFuture, the vibrant, translucent plastics are as audacious and lively as a Thai beach party, while the timeless shapes keep them wearable and masculine. Save your tortoiseshell wayfarers and chrome aviators for work hours; these are the sunglasses you want when you’re looking to get into trouble. Sunglasses ($195-$310) by RetroSuperFuture. 214 S T Y L E M A N U A L

You saw Drive, right? By our estimation, a solid 87 per cent of Ryan Gosling’s badassery in that flick was thanks to his form-fitting Henley. Case closed.

The Summer Sweater At first glance, the phrase “summer sweater” might come across as oxymoronic. But we aren’t talking about the chunky Cowichan knit you bundle up in at the ski lodge. The kind we’re referring to is its slim, lithe cousin from California, who used to be in show business—sweaters woven loosely from cotton, sometimes blended with silk. It’s the perfect light layer to deal with whistling breezes on the deck of a yacht or for spending a chilly evening on the dock with a lantern and a good book. Knit sweater ($130) by Tommy Hilfiger; cotton shorts ($175) by NUMBER:Lab; sunglasses ($35) by Topman.

THE RIGHT WATCH This, by the way, is how your shorts should fit, falling about two or three inches above the knee. Any shorter and you’re in ’82 Larry Bird territory; any longer and you’re Tony Hawk circa 1999. CITIZEN BLUE ANGELS WORLD CHRONOGRAPH A-T $625 S T Y L E M A N U A L 215

THE END. UNTIL FALL 2013...

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