Sharp Book For Men Spring 2015 Issue Preview

T H E

E S S E N T I A L

R E F E R E N C E

The Book for Men

F O R

T H E

M O D E R N

M A N

S P RING / SUMMER

2015

COMPLETE

Style Manual INSIDE

Contents

26—31

32—59

62—79

P R E FA C E

CHAPTER 1

CHAPTER 2

Design

Time

Portfolio

............................................................32 A shotgun worthy of Apple, prefab luxury, and table tennis comes of age

Portfolio .............................................................62

Blood, Sweat and Gold.....................................40

Time Lord ..........................................................66

The craftsman behind boxing’s greatest prize understands what it takes to be a champion

Vincent Perriard, CEO of HYT, on the quest to make the most innovative watches in the world

The Eccentric Aesthetic .................................44

Adventure Time ...............................................68

Inside the surprising lair, and mind, of Dragons’ Den’s Michael Wekerle

Watches fitted with extra functionality, and made with advanced materials are perfect for travel

Technically Sublime ........................................50 Home electronics that meld the most advanced technology with arresting design

Blue in the Face ................................................70

Letter from the Creative and Editorial Director........................26 Letter from the Editor-in-Chief.............28 The One.........................30 The Ciclotte is a piece of art that will get your heart racing

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Some classic elegance from Rolex, and some elegant innovation from Montblanc

Sophisticated and versatile timepieces that pop with just the right amount of the right colour

Sharp: The Book For Men

Contents

80—95

96—107

CHAPTER 3

CHAPTER 4

Travel

Food & Drink

Portfolio ......................................................................................80

Portfolio .......................................................................................96

A breathtaking home in Rio, a lazy cruise through Europe, rooms with an ever-changing view, and the luggage to take with you

The perfect cut of meat, and the grill to cook it. Pop the bubbly, and have some designer-inspired comfort food

The Architect..............................................................................86

The New Old School ................................................................104

Jean-Michel Gathy has imagined, then designed, some of the world’s most exotic hotels

Palm Springs has re-emerged as a playground for forward-thinking food, all while staying true to its old school roots

Behold Porto Montenegro.........................................................92 Canadian gold baron Peter Munk has created the world’s most luxe destination for billionaire yacht enthusiasts

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Contents

108—127

128—161

CHAPTER 5

CHAPTER 6

Transportation

Style

Portfolio .....................................................................................108

Portfolio .....................................................................................128

The boat you need, plus dispatches from the world of two-wheeled transport

The new essential briefcase is as business-savvy as it is stylish

Bright Lights, Big City .............................................................130

Prelude to Innovation ...............................................................112

Modern suits with bold prints and accents that are perfect for those warm, moody summer nights. Whether you have plans or not.

You will never get to drive the Audi Prologue, but you will drive the automobiles that come after it, and that is all that matters

Artful Fragrances

....................................................................138 Canada’s most forward-thinking artists interpret the season’s most evocative scents

For the Reformed Speed Lover.................................................116 The BMV Alpina B6 Grand Coupe is the responsible choice for the man who loves power and motion. Responsible choices can still be fun

The Mod Man .............................................................................146 Sir Paul McCartney has managed to stay relevant for five decades. It has helped that his style has always been as impeccable as his music

The Feeling of Flight ................................................................120 There are luxury cars that you drive, and there are ones that you are driven in. The Bentley Mulsane Speed is both.

A View from the Top ................................................................150 Wear a suit that stands out, without shouting. Shot on location at The Marina Sands Hotel in Singapore

More is More..............................................................................124 With the the Lexus GF F car lovers will know the power of a monster engine in a luxury sedan

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Contents

163—178

179—208

CHAPTER 7

CHAPTER 8

The MANual

The Style Manual

How to do everything better—including how to burn calories and drop weight fast, name your boat, pick a new floor and take in the Kentucky Derby. Because men need to know how to grow vegetables just as much as they need to know how to pan for gold.

Your complete guide to what, and how, to wear your new warm weather wardrobe. A curated examination of the essential trends, including blazers, lapels, the perfect outerwear and your next pair of swim trunks.

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Sharp: The Book For Men | Spring / Summer 2015

Chapter 01

Design 32

Shoot Different Apple’s hotshot designer modernizes one of Beretta’s most iconic firearms Marc Newson, the design wizard who joined Apple last fall, worked with the Italian gun brand Beretta over the winter to launch a new version of the 486 Parallelo hunting shotgun. While it might seem like an odd side project, the result is a sublime, 21st-century reworking of the historic, a perfect blending of future and past.

By extending the high-grade walnut up and over the receiver, Newson’s created a wooden bridge connecting to the safety catch. This leaves the impression of a seamless flow between the contrasting materials. The top level, meanwhile, comes with an intricate homage to Asia’s most famous sporting export, the pheasant, etched into the metal. All parts have been refashioned into more streamlined, ergonomic shapes, including a relocated trigger guard and slimmer forend. Of particular note: hand-polished barrels completely devoid of any weld lines.

Quite extraordinarily, Newson’s managed to fuse his Apple-inspired cuttingedge philosophy with the DNA of the centuries-old manufacturer. The result sets the standards for luxury firearms.

Portfolio

Looking for Shelter Into, and out of, the wild As with most unique products, comparisons don’t come easy. Is this camping, without all the things that make camping odious, or like going to the cottage, without the challenges of a permanent structure (like crowded highways, upkeep and intruding neighbours)? Vipp, a Danish industrial company, has created something that fits snugly in between both of those comparisons: a prefabricated, 55-square-metre home designed to be placed in the backwoods of your choosing.

The striking, galvanized-steel-and-glass Vipp Shelter comes fully furnished. The seating, appliances, fixtures, tableware, lighting, towels and even bed linens have been chosen and laid out for you.

Approximately six months after you place an order, the house will be delivered in two containers, the contents of which will be assembled on site in a matter of days.

Experience a getaway into nature while living as you do in the city. Although, with a second-floor bed loft, floor-to-ceiling windows, an outdoor shower and fireplace, you may never want to leave. $580,000, (FREIGHT AND INSTALLATION EXTRA)

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Portfolio

Always Room for More Reinventing the wheel in time for poker night

Louis Vuitton makes trunks for your shoes, bags for your golf clubs, briefcases for your laptop and even cases to hold a decanter of your favourite Scotch. In fact, they’ll make a bespoke case for pretty much whatever your heart desires—all you need is an idea and a bit of time. So why not a case for your most prized guitar?

For spring/summer 2015, Vuitton’s designer Kim Jones drew inspiration from Jaipur, India, imbuing the menswear collection with the bright colours, bold patterns and vivid textures of South Asia. Because Vuitton is first and foremost a maker of fine luggage, the collection also includes four special-edition trunks, including a record case, a composer’s case (designed to hold music paper, ink and notebooks) and this masterful guitar case, all crafted from aged natural cowhide.

Jones designed the case to keep a very special instrument safe on your next far-flung journey—and the ultra-soft shearling sheepskin lining the interior will ensure this. Any guitar precious enough to belong in here, after all, is a work of art in its own right.

In the age of crystal-clear flat-screen TVs, gene sequencing and potato chips that taste exactly like ballpark hot dogs, it’s easy to forget that the workings of some modern innovations are still visible to the naked eye. Such is the case with the Fletcher Capstan Table. Crafted in England from woods like Brazilian mahogany, Macassar and European walnut, with a core of honeycomb aluminum for added rigidity, on its surface the Capstan looks like a beautiful round dining table. Which it certainly is. The magic, however, is hidden beneath: turn the table’s top 120 degrees and watch as 5,000 precision-milled pieces work together in perfect harmony to increase its surface area by 73 per cent. It is as much a piece of furniture as it is a mechanical marvel.

RETAILS FOR APPROXIMATELY $64,000

$50,000

Jamming with Louis Vuitton A guitar case fit for rock royalty

Design

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Photo: Lourenso Ramautar

The craftsmanship of boxing’s greatest prizes is art that’s worth fighting for

Story by Igor Guryashkin

O Blood, Sweat and Gold

n a cold February day in 1809, thousands of people gathered on a dank patch of grass at Epsom Downs, a large slab of rolling fields outside of London. They came to witness Tom Cribb—the greatest bare-knuckle fighter of his era, and the man who reportedly survived a 500-pound crate of oranges falling on his chest—pummel fellow pugilist Jem Belcher for 31 rounds.

Cribb won. The prize, aside from a pot of cash, and eternal folk-hero status, was a belt. It was adorned with a silver buckle and lion skin and, for the time, it was spectacular. When Cribb died in 1848, his grave was marked with a carved stone lion, the paw placed on an urn and a belt placed across it.

The sport has changed since then, obviously. But the prize hasn’t.

There’s still money, there’s still glory, and there’s still a belt—a spectacular symbol of the championship that fighters live for.

For the last five decades, those belts were a product of one man. Like those who work and sweat and bleed for one of his belts, Ardash Sahaghian, now 93 years old, is a fighter. It’s perhaps why he’s able to make the belts he does; only a person who understands a good fight would be able to create something worthy of the greatest fighters.

The son of Armenian immigrants in Romania, Sahaghian worked as a grocery shop worker and cobbler, before following in the footsteps of his older brother, to become a jeweller. When the name “Sahaghian” was given to the communist authorities as the man who fashioned watch parts made of gold—a metal illegal to possess under the regime—the younger Sahaghian took the fall. His brother was recently married and too frail to survive being arrested and tortured. Ardash Sahaghian made it home, but it was time to escape.

After stops in Austria, Brazil and South Africa, Sahaghian and his wife, Nazeli, finally settled in Weehawken, New Jersey, in 1970. There, he returned to craft jewelry, and there he crafted his legacy—one his grandson now works hard to protect more than 40 years later.

A local jeweller and boxing enthusiast approached Sahaghian to modernize old boxing belts, and create designs for new organizations.

Sahaghian, himself once an amateur boxer in Romania, agreed. While the IBF, WBO and WBA soon got batches of freshly designed belts with a look that’s remained virtually unchanged till today, the credit as to who was responsible for such emblematic additions to the sport soon came under threat—almost disappearing into the dust of the Wild West of professional boxing.

“We would have champions sending us belts that were falling apart,” recalls Edward Majian, Sahaghian’s grandson, who in 2009 founded

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Design

Inside Michael Wekerle’s Dragon’s Den

Story by Peter Saltsman Photography by Josh Fee

The Eccentric Aesthetic M

ichael Wekerle won’t take off his sunglasses. Not that we asked him to. Or that we care. It’s just that we’re here at his home, in his bathroom, and he’s still wearing his aviators.

Fair enough. The Wek pretty well does as he pleases—in business, life and, it turns out, home decorating.

You know him best from CBC’s Dragon’s Den, the popular show where Canada’s richest people bid to finance the entrepreneurial dreams of Canada’s least self-aware. Wekerle is the show’s shining star, a lovable eccentric with a knack for finding value where you might not otherwise see any. Rumour has it that off the show, on his own dime, he purchased Toronto’s El Mocambo, a crumbling music venue most famous for once hosting The Rolling Stones.

Whether he owns it or not, he’s played the venue a few times himself. What else do you do with two rooms full of guitars?

Step inside his sprawling Forest Hill home, and you’ll see immediately what’s hidden behind those ubiquitous shades. He’s a family man, first and foremost. A dog lover. And a wildy counterintuitive art lover and curator, the kind of guy who’d stick a Rodin next to a ping-pong table—in his dining room.

Design

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The newest tech is as beautiful as it is innovative

Story by Alex Nino Gheciu Photography by Liam Mogan

Technically Sublime H

ome electronics have come a long way since the days of clunky gramophones and anvil-like televisions. Now that tech manufacturers have embraced beautiful design concepts, it is the perfect time to invest in the highest-end technology for your home. After all, television is better than most films, and your wine cellar is as well stocked as any restaurant. Why go out?

Innovation and aesthetic beauty need no longer be mutually exclusive.

Design

50

Sony XBR X910C Series 4K Ultra HD TV This 75” leviathan from Sony will serve you well. It’s the company’s thinnest LED TV yet, at some points measuring just 4.9 mm. That’s slimmer than most smartphones.

The TV’s new 4K Processor X1 dramatically elevates clarity, colour and contrast. Plus, its Google Android operating system lets you stream video, play video games and control programming with your voice. The golden age of television, indeed.

PRICE TBA

ALLNIC Tube Amps Don’t desecrate your favourite records with the icy digital output of an iPod dock. Allnic tube amps offer warm, analog sound with unmatched clarity, detail, speed and dynamic range.

The brand name stands for “all nickel” — all their output transformers are made with permalloy, an alloy made of 80% nickel. The result?

Sound staging so flawless you might for think you’re listening to Hendrix live. $20,000 FOR THE PAIR OF A5000 DHT MONO AMPLIFIERS, $12,000 FOR THE L3000 PREAMPLIFIER. AVAILABLE AT AUDIO BY MARK JONES

Sharp: The Book For Men | Spring / Summer 2015

Chapter 02

Time

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Time to Shine In praise of the new Cellini collection from Rolex When you think Rolex, it’s easy to focus on sport models like Submariner, or dress models like Datejust. The elegant Cellini can often be overlooked. This would be a mistake, especially now. The iconic Swiss watchmaker has released a new trio of Cellini watches—Time, Dual Time and Date—that represent the epitome of subtle luxury, thanks to a resplendent new design with fluted bezels and guilloche dials. Suave and modish with vintage elegance. $17,800 CELLINI DATE; $18,000 CELLINI TIME; $23,000 CELLINI DUAL TIME

Photo: Adrian Armstrong

Chopard L.U.C XPS Poinçon de Genève Understanding that less is more is key to appreciating the design of the Chopard L.U.C XPS collection of dress watches. It is extremely thin, with a micro-rotor automatic movement. With its blue dial, matching strap and platinum case, the L.U.C XPS Poinçon de Genève is a limited edition of just 25 pieces. Less is more indeed. $25,680

A dash of colour is the perfect way to enhance any ensemble. It’s true with timepieces, too

Story by Ariel Adams

Blue in the B Face

lue is one of the most beautiful colours you’ll see on a man’s wrist. Despite the fact that blue watch dials are having a moment, relatively speaking, they are still somewhat scarce.

And that scarcity breeds desire. Blue is notoriously difficult to get right. It can too often look overly metallic, overly matte or simply distracting. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t any bluedialed watches out there that work perfectly. It’s worth the hunt: the right blue-dialed watch is incredibly versatile, while still making a bold visual statement.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is the quintessential modern luxury sports chronograph, with distinct lines and a refined, aggressively masculine style. Now, Audemars Piguet offers it in blue, with a steel case, blue high-grade rubber strap and black ceramic elements for the crown and pushers for the most modern version of this sporty classic. $25,600

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Hamilton’s long-standing Jazzmaster collection adds a little art deco to your office attire. Perhaps the most remarkable of the collection is the Jazzmaster Regulator, which features a face with separate dials for the hours, minutes and seconds. Slightly less legible than standard hand layouts, the Regulator dial concept was created to display the precise time. $1,390

Sharp: The Book For Men | Spring / Summer 2015

Chapter 03

Travel 80

Casa AL, Rio de Janeiro Come for the view, stay for the view When Brazilian architecture firm Studio Arthur Casas and their client, a longtime friend of the studio, chose the land on which to build Casa AL, there was no doubt about its best feature. The threetiered house is perched on a hillside overlooking the ocean, with every aspect of its design focused toward the incredible view. By means of sliding glass panels, the main living spaces on the mid-level open onto the infinity pool and terrace, allowing indoor spaces to flow seamlessly into outdoor ones, and, in turn, into the panoramic vista beyond. The house is clad in regionally quarried stone and Brazilian teak, both of which allow it to blend harmoniously into the hillside. Studio Arthur Casas was also tasked with finishing the home, which they did in a mix of mid-century Brazilian designs and simple contemporary pieces — best, after all, not to try to compete with the scenery.

Portfolio

Your Own Private Eden Norway’s Juvet Landscape Hotel allows you to be one with nature The latest buzzword in the hotel realm is “landscape.” For a lesson on how to make that word mean something, consider the Juvet Landscape Hotel in northwest Norway exhibit A. Rather than focusing on its own architecture, as most solipsism-prone design hotels will do, the Juvet showcases the sublime nature that surrounds it. The hotel consists of seven minimalist buildings made entirely of pine and glass, each with its own exclusive, uninterrupted view of stunning topography that, as topography does, changes with the season, weather and time of day. Some overlook the Gudbrandsjuvet, a spectacular waterfall in a 20-metre-deep gorge. Others offer more meditative views, like the surrounding birch forest or an assemblage of rocks covered in moss. All foundations are laid on steel rods, so the cabins can be removed easily. The hotel, like you, is but a guest in nature.

Spring / Summer 2015

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Travel

Portfolio

The Faroe Islands Grass roofs, stormy skies and incredible seafood in Scandinavia Set in the North Atlantic somewhere between Iceland, northern Scotland and Denmark, there’s a tiny island territory that’s home to 50,000 people, 70,000 sheep and some of the best seafood you’ll ever eat. As the tenets of new Nordic cuisine (fiercely local, seasonal and sustainable) take hold across Scandinavia, the region has become a beacon to adventurous diners from across the globe. The tiny Faroe Islands, a self-governing territory of Denmark, have lately earned their place on the list of must-visit Nordic destinations thanks to their grass-roofed stone houses, dramatic cliffs and bountiful oceans. The top of any hungry traveler’s list is Koks, located in the modern Hotel Føroyar, where chef Poul Andrias Ziska dedicates his prodigious talents to interpreting Faroese ingredients and dishes for contemporary palates. The menu changes frequently, but expect to find mussels, scallops, skate and langoustines—as well as Faroese dried lamb—expertly paired with the delicate flavours of local celeriac, kohlrabi and sea vegetables. For a place roughly a quarter of the area of Prince Edward Island, the natural beauty and depth of culture of the Faroes relative to its size make it all the more deserving of a visit. The langoustines, however, might be worth the price of the plane ticket alone.

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Interview

Jean-Michel Gathy knows a thing or two about luxury. From The Setai in Miami to the St. Regis Lhasa in Tibet, he’s the man behind some of the world’s most exotic hotels—and might just be their most discerning guest

Story by Matthew Hague

The Architect Sharp: The Book For Men

Y

ou dream of seven-star vacations, but not in the same way architect Jean-Michel Gathy does. He gets paid for his dreams.

And for making those dreams a reality. As the principal at his design firm, Denniston, he’s the man that the world’s most discerning hoteliers—Mandarin Oriental, Aman, St. Regis, Cheval Blanc, and so on—turn to before breaking ground on a new hotel or resort. Born in Belgium, Gathy settled in Kuala Lumpur more than two decades ago, drawn by the country’s rich, multi-ethnic history and its inherent friendliness. He is now based there full time—that is, when he isn’t traveling. He’s currently at work on a dozen projects around the globe. He’s already put his stamp on exotic locations as far afield as Venice, Abu Dhabi and Bora Bora. That distinctive stamp includes signatures like reflecting pools, spa-like bathrooms and camping tents (the kind with 20-foot ceilings that come with a butler), and seas of soft, candle-like lighting against soaring high ceilings and a symmetrical, vaguely Asian-inflected geometry. Imagine any luxury hotel and you are no doubt imagining his work. He’s the world’s foremost architect of The Good Life. And he lives it, too. He speaks to us from under a palm tree, resting beside a 450-foot pool at his newest project, the Park Hyatt Sunny Bay, in Sanya, China.

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Travel

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Chapter 04

Food & Drink 96

Dried and True Even the best cut of meat is better when it’s dry aged A few decades ago, dry aging—a process that, as the name implies, leaves meat on a rack to dehydrate (not completely, of course) for several weeks—was the only way to prepare meats so they wouldn’t spoil. Then plastics came along, and solved that problem, but created another one. We missed out on years of incredible steaks. Now, thanks to innovations in ventilation that make it near impossible for expensive meat to spoil, the process is a hallmark of the best steakhouses. During the dry age process, meat is exposed to air and dehydration that concentrates its proteins and tenderizes its texture. After 21 to 28 days, it creates beef that has a complex, nutty flavour that is unparalleled. And while, yes, it’s possible to mimic the process at home (use cheesecloth and a spotless refrigerator), it’s best to leave it to the professionals.

Photo: Adrian Armstrong

Portfolio

The Perfect Union of Meat and Fire Perhaps the most advanced outdoor grill on the market

Good things come to those who wait Case in point: The Hario Cold Water Coffee Dripper Sure there are faster, more convenient ways to get your caffeine fix, but this contraption, a Japanese sci-fi dream in tempered glass and acrylic, is all about nuance. Fill the top beaker with water and ice, add your freshly ground beans to the middle, open the spout and let the magic begin. In three to five hours (you should probably start before your guests arrive), your perfectly chilled water will have filtered down through the beans and into the handsome carafe, yielding up to 750 ml of the sweetest, most delicately flavoured coffee you’ve ever tasted. They say patience is a virtue, and that may be true, but the best iced coffee of your life is reward enough, no?

Can a grill be considered a status symbol? Of course it can—it’s a sign of good taste, in more ways than one.

That being said, only those with a true respect for the sacred union of meat and fire will recognize just how extraordinary this machine is.

With many grills you have to face the quandary of whether you want to cook with charcoal or gas.

Not the K750HT. This dual-fuel grill can burn coal or wood in one instance, then propane or natural gas the next for a total of 107,150 BTUs. The cooker is built with a “grilling drawer” that sits above cast brass gas burners. To cook with gas, leave it empty. To cook with wood or charcoal, fill it up. Best of all, the combustibles are ignited not with lighter fluid, chimney starters or any other homegrown method, but with the simple turn of a burner. Add to that a rotisserie drive, a choice of cooking surface and 1,000-plus square inches of cooking space, and you have the undisputed World Heavyweight Champion of grills. $11,300 TO $21,200 (DEPENDING ON SPECIFICATIONS)

$250

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S T Y L E & FA S H I O N

CANADA’S MAGAZINE FOR SOPHISTICATED WOMEN

S P R I N G 2 015 AVA I L A B L E O N N E W S S TA N D S V I S I T U S O N L I N E AT S S T Y L E M A G A Z I N E .C O M

The Rebirth of Palm Springs as the Epicentre of Culinary Cool

Story by Chris Johns

The New T Old School

he smiling man in the crisp tuxedo welcomes us with a firm handshake. “We've been expecting you,” he says. “I put a table aside for you but people keep moving around.” They sure do. Past the long bar, where they line up two deep behind the stools, couples trip the light fantastic on the small mirrorlined dance floor in front of the band. Women in vintage Pucci dresses— one of them wearing a fascinator—sing along to their favourites. Low tables cram all the open floor space and even the baby grand piano has bar seats around its curved edges. It's Sunday night at Melvyn's in 2015, but it might as well be a Friday night in 1975.

Little has changed at this Palm Springs landmark in 40 years, since Sinatra used to raise his Jack Daniel’s flag to let the neighbours know the party was on. Brian, the dapper maître d’ who welcomed us, has worked there since then. So has the bartender, David Shunick. He can make you a JD on the rocks just like he did for Ol’ Blue Eyes, when he was a regular who would sometimes hop up on the stage to belt out a couple of tunes with the house band. The dining room menu evokes a time when every restaurant had the same dishes, and those dishes had proper names: Crepes Suzette, Oysters Rockefeller, Steak Diane.

Famous food to feed the famous people who have eaten here over the years, everyone from Liza Minelli, Dinah Shore and Jerry Lewis to David Hasselhoff, Barry Manilow and Cher.

Alright, maybe those aren't the hottest celebrities of the moment, and Crepes Suzette might not be the cutting edge of the culinary zeitgeist, but that doesn’t mean Palm Springs is a dusty time capsule. In fact, it just might be thriving — the rare time when a once-hip city can be made essential again. It’s not entirely about new restaurants opening, or about nostalgia. It’s about both. I'm visiting some of those classic places, seeing how they’ve stayed relevant today, but while I’m tracing the steps of ’70s celebrities, I’m also discovering the new spots that are bringing fresh ideas to the desert city.

My base of operations is the Parker Palm Springs Hotel, a gorgeous, garden-filled property that itself has a long, proud history and a decidedly modern outlook. The property, built in 1958 as California's first Holiday Inn, was later turned into the private ranch of singing Cowboy Gene Autry. In the late ’90s Merv Griffin purchased the land and opened Merv Griffin's Resort and Givenchy Spa. Thankfully, the Parker group took over in 2004 and injected a bit of cool back into the property.

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Food & Drink

The New Old School

Left to Right: Mister Parker’s; Workshop Kitchen + Bar; Melvin’s

Yesterday the bocce court was crammed with a camera crew and models from German Vogue, and this morning a table of starlets prep for their photo shoot over bowls of chilled yogurt on Norma's restaurant patio. They say nothing tastes better than being skinny feels, but my banana-macadamia nut flapjacks with “whipped banana brown sugar butter” beg to differ. I'll only imagine what the lobster frittata tastes like: at $1,000.00 a dish—with 10oz of Sevruga caviar—I assume it’s a bit rich.

Norma's is fun and delicious, but the real action happens at night past the psychedelic door and beyond the velvet curtains in the hotel's dark Mister Parker's restaurant. Barry White drips out of the speakers as I settle into a corner banquette amid walls filled with vintage erotic paintings. In one of them a classic California blonde smoulders in a leather-belted white bikini, sporting a Mona Lisa smile. A pair of porcelain lions guard the entrance to a private room in the back that comes complete with its own private bar.

The room seems to have drawn its inspiration from an imagined Burt Reynold's man cave, circa the Gator/Semi-Tough period. Even chef Herve Glin's menu seems to acknowledge that era, updating it in clever ways. Where you might expect shrimp cocktail there's tuna tartare, the shrimp cocktail of the 21st century, that comes not with cocktail sauce, but yuzu crème fraîche, mango chutney, crispy potatoes and wasabi tobiko. Similarly, red-wineibraised Wagyu short ribs with sweet potato and creamed watercress are the steak au poivre of our age, a nearly ubiquitous and alwaysdelicious menu staple. There's also steak au poivre. Wine pairing is made easy thanks to a list that divides choices into Crazy, Sexy and Cool categories. After dinner, retire to the lobby, where the six-seat, green-marble-lined Mini Bar makes a mean grasshopper, and see

Food & Drink

where the evening takes you. Back in the day that could have meant just about anything— when the hotel was the Givenchy, Robert Downey Jr. was arrested for heroin possession in room 311. Now though, things are as PG as the latest Iron Man movie.

If the party carries on back to your villa, and the evening turns to morning, it might be a good time to seek breakfast off the property.

The line moves quickly at Cheeky's, where the workout-gear-clad crowds queue to indulge in a little pre- or post-tennis carbo-loading. This is the first restaurant in a growing restaurant empire from chef Tara Lazar and her partner Marco Rosetti, that includes the Italianinfluenced Birba and the Asian-inspired Jiao.

At Cheeky's, though, the emphasis is on the flavours of Mexico, not surprising for a town just 200 kilometres from the border.

Rich, soft scrambled eggs spill out of the corners of a spicy breakfast quesadilla, and a savoury base of fried masa is topped with tender strips of steak, pickled onions, refried beans, fresh cheese and diced cactus paddles in an exemplary huarache. While not strictly Mexican, the renowned bacon flight—five varieties of artisanal bacon on one plate—is as necessary an order as a reviving Bloody Mary.

Bacon flights might not seem very Californiaspa-food friendly, but as anyone who's tasted the Thai sweet chili bacon can attest, diet rules are made to be broken.

If there's one restaurant that best sums up the current Palm Springs culinary mood of redefinition, it's the sleek new Workshop Kitchen + Bar. It's housed in a Spanish Colonial heritage building that dates back to the 1920s, but the restaurant's interior is decidedly contemporary. Resembling a kind of brutalist temple to gastronomy, the room, with its 27-foot high peaked ceiling, is built around poured concrete surfaces including

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a vast communal table that bisects the room.

Intimate booths flank both sides and the whole space is illuminated by bare bulbs hung from long, black cords. Old school and new, together in one place.

Aside from the architecture there's a kind of devout adherence to using local ingredients that extends beyond the menu to the imaginative cocktail list. Puréed avocados are mixed with rum and pineapple juice in the creamy, intense Emerald Star. Local citrus is squeezed both for its juice and its oils while farmer’s market carrots are juiced to be blended with Scotch, ginger and lemon in the Carrot Penicillin.

Heirloom carrots also appear on the dinner menu paired with dates, goat cheese, walnuts and a spicy chermoula sauce alongside baby market beets in an arugula and sliced apple salad with herring and dill crème fraîche.

California's incredible produce is put to further good use in an enchilada stuffed with poblanos, roasted peppers, spaghetti squash and kale in a smoky grilled tomatillo salsa.

The menu's not all vegetable based, though, as a massive 22-ounce Iron House Ranch rib-eye can attest. Cooked sous-vide before being grilled over a wood fire and served with creamed kale and a pearl onion ragu it's a dish from another time, before red meat was verboten, only updated.

It’s impossible to know what Sinatra would order today in Palm Springs—whether he’d cling to the classics, or allow himself to be swept up in the spirit of redefinition, singing “My Way,” with one hand clasped around some carrot-infused cocktail. And while that might not be easy to picture, the truth is that the beauty of Palm Springs is not having to make that disctinction between old school and new. You can have it both ways, without any regrets.

Sharp: The Book For Men

Sharp: The Book For Men | Spring / Summer 2015

Chapter 05

Transportation 108

Revolver 44GT A drop-top coupe for the high seas There are things that justify their existence through utility. These are called needs.

And then there are things that earn their keep through the pure, unadulterated joy of use. There’s no question to which category Revolver’s 44GT belongs—just look at her. A new breed of boat from the Italian performance builder, the 44GT is designed to go fast in the utmost comfort. The former is accomplished via twin supercharged Mercury engines pushing out a thrilling 1,400 horsepower, for a maximum cruising speed of 65 knots (120 km/h). The latter is thanks to a revolutionary concept in performance boating: a folding hardtop.

Spend the day sunning and swimming from the electronic retractable rear deck and then, when the clouds roll in, raise the roof with the push of a button and hightail it back to port. Top up or down, with a choice of nine hull colours including Red Dragon and Borealis Orange this Revolver won’t be mistaken for anything else on the water. $950,000 (USD)

A concept car that isn’t a concept. It’s so much more

Story by Matt Bubbers

Prelude to Innovation Transportation

112

For those that wonder what would happen if the engine of a sports car found its way into a luxury sedan, Lexus has an answer

Story by Matt Bubbers

More is More Transportation

124

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Chapter 06

Style

128

Signed, Sealed, Delivered The new essential briefcase is all business Structured briefcases will always have a place in the working world, but more and more designers are experimenting with their own interpretation of the traditional businessman’s bag. Take this handsome number from Dior Homme, for example.

The bag is an exercise in subtle design that still stands out, thanks to details like the textured calfskin leather, navy-grey colour and metal zips (instead of clasps). The refined bit of branding—that embroidered signature of Monsieur Dior—was lifted from a letter Kris Van Assche, the current artistic director, found in the archive.

This same low-key luxury will be on display this summer, when the brand opens its first Canadian standalone store in the newly renovated Hotel Vancouver. $4,200

No matter what vices a man indulges in after hours, he should never look anything but impeccable. Dress for when the sun goes down with moody accents and rich colours that will look good in any light

Photography by Mackenzie Duncan

Styling by Talia Brown

Bright Lights, Big City Style

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Cotton jacket ($995) and cotton pants ($175) by BOSS; cotton polo shirt ($370) by Saint Laurent, at Holt Renfrew.

Virgin wool suit ($795) by J.Lindeberg; cotton shirt ($200)

by Strellson; silk tie ($230) by Cravatex, at Davido Afnani; linen pocket square ($60)

by Garrison Bespoke; Le Locle Automatic Petite Seconde watch ($925) by Tissot.Â

With the season’s most evocative fragrances as muse, these bold artists create inspired new works

Artful I Fragrances

f you have the rare neurological phenomenon of synesthesia, your brain’s processing centres are interconnected. When you smell a scent, your mind translates it into colours and shapes.

In the spirit of this, we asked Canada’s most forward-thinking artists to take inspiration from fine colognes. What’s a fragrance, after all, but a means of self-expression?

Chanel Bleu

The Scent:

36”x48” acrylic on gallery-wrapped canvas

$210 FOR 300 ML

by Samara Shuter

A spicy, arboreous fragrance that breaks conventions. The provocative blend of citrus and woods jolts the senses. A bold, indelible statement.

The Sight: “The painting is inspired by the refined scent of Chanel Bleu: heavy black lines contour the man’s body, accentuating a tuxedo that is both classic and exceptional with its hint of navy sheen. Set against a background of bold and sensual colour, the Bleu man is projected forward, relaxed and fresh.” —Samara Shuter SAMARASHUTER.COM

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Style

Armani Code

by Richard Ahnert 24”x24” oil paint on wood panel

The Scent: A strikingly masculine blend that straddles the line between seduction and sophistication. The fresh lemon and bergamot arouse the senses, while the guaiac wood and tonka bean arrest them. $115 FOR 125 ML

The Sight: "The painting expresses a mood of seduction. Within many of us there is a desire for power, wisdom, courage and ferocity, as expressed through the characteristics of the lion. The lion is also a nocturnal creature, a figure of the night.

The colour palette is inspired by the vibrant notes of bergamot and lemon with warm undertones.” — Richard Ahnert MYCANVAS.CA

Style

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HUGO Hugo Boss

by Nicole Charles

32”x32” acrylic on plexiglas

The Scent: An unconventional blend of intensely fresh sea breezes and musky spices simmer down to yield green, aquatic touches and the aroma of apples. $90 FOR 100 ML

The Sight: “I used acrylic paint on plexiglas and I chose the colours of the brand to mimic its aesthetic. HUGO has a classic but strong brand, so what I created comes off as really bold and contemporary, but also, chic and refined. I wanted to liquefy the brand aesthetic, in a way.” — Nicole Charles NICOLEDCHARLES.COM

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Style

Photography by Joel Lim Styling by Hansen Putra Shot on location at: Marina Bay Sands

Virgin wool suit ($1,095) by HUGO; cotton poplin shirt ($930) by Dior Homme; silver lapel pin (stylist’s own).

Summer is all about making subtle statements. Streamlined suiting paired with bold prints and surprising textures is exactly how you want to get noticed—even when you’re up against the most impressive architecture

A View from the Top Sharp: The Book For Men

153

Style

Wool-silk blend threepiece suit ($1,795) by BOSS; cotton shirt ($380) by Hackett London; silk tie ($370)

by Brioni; calf leather monk-strap loafers ($950) by Moreschi.

Wool-silk blend tuxedo jacket ($2,850), trousers ($1,090) and patent leather boots ($895) by Saint Laurent; cotton shirt ($490) by Calvin Klein Collection.

Section

Wool suit ($1,775), cotton shirt ($335) and silk knit tie ($210) by CH Carolina Herrera; silk pocket square ($220) by Hermès; Classic Fusion Skeleton Turbillion watch ($140,000) by Hublot.

Production and Art Direction: Yang-Yi Goh Grooming: Keith Bryant Lee Photo Assistant: Amos Abel Yong Styling Assistant: Jonas Lim Production Assistant: Alyssa Goodman For more information on the Marina Bay Sands, see page 208

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THE M A N UA L How to do everything better

Grooming

Health

Sports

Travel

Etiquette

Culture

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165

166

167

168

169

Food

Tech

Drinks

Life Skills

Home

170

172

174

176

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Sharp: The Book For Men Spring / Summer 2015 Spring / Summer 2015

163

GROOMING

Guide to Manscaping: Keep, Remove or Tame

Hierarchy of Grooming Tools

Before you wax yourself from head to toe, you know, to become more hydrodynamic (it works for Michael Phelps), you should know that there are areas you can keep with full confidence. Other areas don’t need to be clear cut—mild trimming will suffice. Unless you work as a drag performer, of course. Then it’s all got to go. Here’s a list:

Because if you can only have one grooming product, you need to know what that is.

1

Toothbrush

Because even the best hair can’t distract from morning breath.

Keep

Hair Brush

Light in the spring and summer, but subtle all year round.

3

Unless you are cutting your own hair (and you aren’t), brush beats comb everytime.

Tame

4

Body Lotion

Defeats dry skin, sun damage, and can be used as hair product in a pinch.

*USE GILLETTE 3-IN-1 BODY GROOMER WITH BEARD FUSION PROGLIDE STYLER TRIMMER FOR MEN.

Remove

Matte Pomade Control, 5

Beard: It’s summertime, there’s no need for a lumberjack-ian beard giving you an awkward tan.

Back Hair: Unless you are above 60, and own a yacht and a small island country, you are not permitted to have back hair. It will hurt a little, but the horrified stares of children hurt more.

Deodorant

Moisturizing Bar Soap Gels

have their place but can’t match the versatility of a classic.

Chest Hair: There are limits to how much chest hair is appropriate, especially when it’s being bared to the public. A quick clean up using a trimmer (don’t shave, don’t you ever shave) is your best bet.

Groin: Look, we’re not telling you to run and get a manzilian because you are not a porn star. But it’s only considerate to keep things trim down there.

6

Not anti-perspirant.

And don’t mistake this for cologne. It’s not.

2

Eyebrows: Unless you only have one, keep your eyebrows as natural as possible. It’s all too easy to tell when a man waxes his eyebrows. Let the image of Seinfeld’s Uncle Leo scare you into staying natural.

Leg Hair: Hairy legs, and the ability to pee standing up, are your birthright as a man. Enjoy it.

ous curls—but then, it’s better to work with them.

style, without looking wet. Choose medium hold, unless you’re taming seri-

7

8

Fragrance

Nail Clippers

You have about eight sets already somewhere in your bathroom.

9 Pumice Stone Your feet are

just as important as your shoes.

Talcum Powder 10

You won’t realize how important it is, until you need it and don’t have it.

Keep Your Breath Fresh

Nothing kills social interactions quite like bad breath. It has ever been so, only now that you’re not a teenager, it’s no longer appropriate to be chewing on gum constantly. Spare the people closest to you, with three steps.

1/ Scrape

No, brushing isn’t enough. Using a tongue scraper once will remove the bacteria and food debris causing ungodly odours.

2/ Rinse

Mouthwashes with alcohol can worsen your breath by drying your mouth out, leaving it a barren wasteland for all bacteria to grow.

Use a chlorine dioxide-based rinse, like TheraBreath, instead.

Hairstyles That Are Not Okay Yes, style is all about personal preferences. But, there are some looks that shouldn’t be tried, no matter how bold you think you are

3/ Go Green Inflated Pompadour

WHY? It’s 2015. No amount of modern product will make Wayne Newton’s do edgy.

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Frosted Tips

WHY? Because you aren’t a member of Smash Mouth cover band. Are you? If you’re going to change your hair colour, it best look natural.

Undercut

WHY? You’re not DJing a rave tonight. Besides, women have co-opted this once edgy look. It looks better on Natalie Dormer than it does on Skrillex.

Mullet

WHY? Hairstyles, like hats, should never be ironic. Please return your copy of The Book for Men.

164

Bowl Cut

WHY? Because your mom isn’t your hairdresser.

Drink green tea.

Really. Aside from its other well-documented health benefits, it slays stinky sulfur compounds that cause tooth decay and halitosis.

Sharp: The Book For Men

ETIQUETTE

Dating Rituals HOW TO

Gift Anyone

Archaic

It’s better to give than to receive. But, only if you know how to give the right gifts

Coat over a puddle

Coats, like Model Ts, must have been cheap back in the day. And women must have been light. How else was this practice justified?

Thanks to feminism, women can just sidestep a puddle now.

They say it’s the thought that counts. But the fact is, lousy gifts sully your relationship with just about anyone. Here’s how to avoid that awkwardness, whatever the occasion, whoever the recipient.

Boss Keep in mind: Gifting upwards can be fraught with political pratfalls. You risk looking like a suck-up to your boss and your coworkers. Tread lightly.

Avoid: Anything too flashy (no jewelry) or personal (no massages) or offensive (no blasphemous t-shirts).

Keep it elegant but workappropriate.

Example: The Moore & Giles Utility Bag. Crafted heavily waxed canvas and oiled leather, it’s made to accommodate a laptop, business cards and up to six spirit bottles. Hey, booze is work-appropriate, right? $660

Father-In-Law Keep in mind: His expectations are a mystery because his own gift-giving capacity is a mystery.

Your mother-in-law chose the last tie he gave you.

Break the cycle by getting

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him something he’ll truly enjoy, and also that says you want to be pals.

Avoid: Anything tacky (no #1 Dad mugs) or sexually tinged (no Paul Verhoeven box sets, even if you know he loves RoboCop). Keep it classy and fun.

Example: The Bomb Bar. It’s a wooden ammo box that’s been transformed into the perfect storage unit for booze bottles.

Bond while nailing this thing to the wall. $560

The Newlyweds Keep in mind: People are marrying later than ever, often after having lived together for several years. They already have all the kitchen appliances they could ever need. Get them something a little more personal.

Avoid: Anything predictable (no toasters) or cheesy (no candlesticks) or utterly useless (no melon ballers).

Example: An All Pop Art Retro Wall Portrait.

Submit a photo of them to this website, where they’ll convert it into a custom canvas inspired by styles from Lichtenstein to Warhol. ($369, allpopart.com)

Dueling

Granted, this still happens, only it’s not quite as refined as fencing at dawn. These days it’s more of a drunken brawl outside of a club.

Both are equally sexist, mind you.

Significant Other Keep in mind: Even if your poor gifting choices have never reached sitcom-level lows, you can tell when she isn’t happy.

Avoid: Avoid getting her things you think she should want—which means your hobbies are out. Ditto household items—unless she clearly wants that Vitamix.

Example: The Panthère de Cartier ring. Because she, like a panther, is elegant, restrained and always ready to pounce.

Hopefully. $64,500

Walking closer to the curb

To wit, a man should walk on the side closer to traffic. If a car should drive through a puddle or hop the curb, it’s considered protocol for the man to absorb the outcome (or move the woman out of the way fast enough). It’s considerate, but if you find yourself on the wrong side, it’s not a deal breaker.

Phone calls

Letting a woman know you are interested used to mean you called her — at a respectable hour—and spoke to her in full sentences. Now, as long as a text contains more than monosyllables and emojis, it’s appreciated.

Paying for dinner

This is most commonly associated with a first date, but even then it isn’t particularly relevant. Since splitting the bill is fast becoming the status quo, you’ll look better if you grab the bill—just remember that that’s all you’re paying for.

Ex

Opening doors

Keep in mind: You’re never getting back together. You don’t want to get back together, damn it.

Avoid: Everything.

Example: Don’t get your ex a gift. Seriously.

Chivalry might not be dead, but it isn’t looking great these days.

Women don’t expect much from men, so something as simple as opening a door will never quite go out of style. Hell, a true gentleman will open a door for whomever he’s with, regardless of gender.

Relevant

168

Some Notes of Nuance Three things to remember before you compose that tweet

Civilized discourse seemed to die the moment the Internet was born. Now, we don’t expect nuanced opinions from anyone. Still, nuance is exactly what the world needs, whether it’s online or not.

Never Question Another Person’s Motives

You can disagree with what people say or do, but the minute you presume to know why they did it, you’re on shaky ethical ground.

Address the argument, not the arguer.

Your Tastes Have Changed

You allow yourself the privilege of an evolving opinion, so allow the same in others. You wouldn’t want your high school CD collection to be held against you any more than your freshman politics.

Don’t Let Perfect be the Enemy of the Good

Applaud efforts, whether artistic or political, that seem to be intellectually honest, even if incomplete.

There are no perfect films, albums, laws or Facebook statuses.

Sharp: The Book For Men

CU LT U R E

Four Books Every Man Should Read in the Summer

HOW TO

Kentucky Derby

You’ve migrated to Louisville to finally experience the apogee of horse racing (and betting) that is the Kentucky Derby. The late king of Gonzo and Louisvillian Hunter S. Thompson once famously said that you haven’t done the Derby right unless you’re crawling on your hands and knees back to the plane. That might not be what you’re going for. Here are the best ways to celebrate the Run for the Roses:

It’s the season of the beach read (which, incidentally, is a term no man should ever use when discussing books), so feel good about picking up an old Elmore Leonard, or the latest Stephen King. Balance that warm weather pulp fiction with something a little more literary but nonetheless appropriate for summer

The races: For those new to the concept, the Kentucky Derby is a set of horse races held annually at the historic Churchill Downs racetrack over the first weekend in May. This year will be the 141st year of the meets, which consist of close to a dozen races each day. The big race, the Kentucky Derby, known as “The Most Exciting Two Minutes in Sports,” is run on the Saturday. For those looking to relive Thompson’s revelry, try watching the race from the infield— the space inside the track that holds 50,000 people and can resemble something Caligula would be proud of.

Look different:

Avoid the predictable seersucker. Finding one that looks different amongst the sea of others is like inventing a new musical note. Instead, opt for something double-breasted, but still light. It gets hot, remember. *TRY A LIGHT BLUE, DOUBLE BREASTED COTTON SUIT BY BOSS (SEE PAGE 179)

Drink right:

You’ll be tempted to drink copious amounts of Mint Juleps (when in Louisville, drink as the Louisvillians, is the thinking). Instead check out the Crescent Hill neighbourhood. It has bars on every block stocked with bourbon you won’t find anywhere else. If beer’s your thing, Sergio’s World Beers is a tiny bar offering over 1,000 different beers.

The Great Gatsby F. Scott Fitzgerald

The Mysteries of Pittsburgh Michael Chabon

You read it in high school, but there’s a reason this might be the perfect novel. Summer nights, the American Dream, broken promises, and short enough to read on the way to the cottage. (So long as you aren’t driving).

That feeling, common among young men, and not common enough among older ones, that you’re living through a summer that will change your life forever. That’s this book.

Goodbye, Columbus

A Sport and a Pastime

A master’s take on being young and in love, being a man and class, all fits into a structure that mirrors the summer months perfectly.

Because when you see young lovers and you can’t stop yourself from imagining what they are doing that you aren’t, you don’t make it sound like this.

Parties:

There will be parties. It should also be noted that Louisville is fast becoming one of the best food towns in the US. For insane tacos try El Camino in the Highlands neighbourhood, and for stellar local Kentucky fare give Ward 426 and Lilly’s Bistro a try. Both are modern, delicious and quintessentially Kentuckian. As for parties, 21c Museum Hotel hosts the most impressive bash, though if you’re able, crash the ultra-exclusive party at The Barnstable Brown. You’ll thank us later.

Betting:

As with all things gambling, prepare first to lose money. But how much you lose depends on which betting sage you listen to. The Daily Racing Form is fine, if you can decipher its hieroglyphics. If not, why not check out Jill Byrne, resident announcer and picker for Churchill Downs. She has an impressive track record.

Philip Roth

“Thurby” not Derby:

If sweating with 150,000 people is not your thing, skip the big day and rock up to Churchill Downs on the Thursday before the big race. It’s the day locals pay pilgrimage to the track and things are a little more civilized in terms of attendance figures. Thursday is the new Saturday round these parts.

Models for Men Who Like Variety

Skinny

Thin

Womanly

Irina Lazareanu

Jourdan Dunn

Adriana Lima

Could-GoEither-Way

Curvy Ashley Graham

James Salter

Full Figured Velvet d’Amour

Crystal Renn

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FOOD

Know Your Tiny Fish Anchovies:

About the size of your pinky, these get their pungent flavour when they’re salted and packed in oil. Add them to tomato sauces, salad dressings, or just place them whole on top of a pizza.

They’re fishy, so a little goes a long way.

Trend: Small Fish in a Big Pond

Smelts: Fried whole and eaten head, bones, tail, and all, these mild-tasting Canadians are found in the Great Lakes as well as the Maritimes. Serve them as an appetizer and dip them in a bit of mayonnaise mixed with Sriracha and lemon.

Find them packed in oil or water in little tins, or better, head to the fish counter where you can find larger ones sold whole. Both versions are fairly boneless, minus a thin spinal cord that can be easily removed with your fingers before eating. Grill the whole ones and serve with a salad and couscous. The tinned ones can be tossed in a pasta with sundried tomatoes and artichoke hearts.

Big catches like tuna and swordfish will continue to be a common sight on menus, but chefs are now looking to the lower end of the food chain, serving up grilled sardines, crispy whole fried smelts, umamirich anchovies, sea bream ceviches and pungent pickled herring. Why? Smaller fish like sardines and anchovies pack a wallop of flavour (as well as omega-3s) and for the longest time were the cheaper alternative to the larger, more well-known fish. Environment and health-minded diners also flock to smaller fish, noting that they generally have lower mercury levels and replenish their numbers faster compared to their longer-living, larger counterparts.

From a culinary standpoint, more and more diners aren’t squirming at the sight of a whole fish on their plates (you can thank Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations for that!), so cooks are more confident in serving these fish that are sized perfectly for a table of two—and like in the case of fish like smelts, don’t have to be deboned. At home, try grilling whole sardines that have been brushed with olive oil and lemon juice, or add chopped anchovies to a tomato sauce for a salty zing (we promise it won’t turn your pasta fishy). It’s not a new concept: herring is synonymous with Scandinavian and Jewish cuisine while sardines are a staple in Spanish and Mediterranean dining. The rest of us are just catching up.

Herring: An-

other salty, oily fish commonly eaten pickled (pair it with vodka), smoked (called kippers), or fermented, herring swim in giant schools that number in the thousands and look like a shimmering, silvery cape in the ocean.

HOW TO Talk to your butcher Because approaching anyone carrying a huge knife can be intimidating: “When you walk into any specialty food shop, be it a butcher, fishmonger or cheese shop, if you feel that there’s any hesitation in asking a question you should walk out.

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“You shouldn’t feel uncomfortable or timid since the relationship between the butcher and you is based on openness. There are no stupid questions and you shouldn’t feel bad asking anything. It’s why you’re in a specialty shop.

“The best question to get things started is, ‘What do you recommend’ and that’ll start a discussion.

We'll go from there."

—Mario Fiorucci, founder of The Healthy Butcher in Tornto

170

FLEUR DE SEL Origin: Brittany, France Distinguishing factors: Flaky texture, pale grey colour Best used for: Finishing dishes

HIMALAYAN PINK

Sardines:

The rise of sardines, and their tiny ilk

Know your salts

Origin: Northern Pakistan Distinguishing factors: Pink colour, reputed to have medicinal properties Best used for: In block form it can be used to sear meats, imbuing them with a subtle, salty flavour

MALDON Origin: Essex, England Distinguishing factors: Fresh, clean flavour Best used for: Seasoning roast potatoes or french fries

HAWAIIAN LAVA Origin: Harvested from the Pacific ocean near Hawaii Distinguishing factors: Black colour Best used for: A great table salt due to its striking colour (a result of being mixed with activated charcoal)

KOSHER Origin: Mined Distinguishing factors: Coarse grains, iodine-free Best used for: Pretty much anything except baking (finer salt dissolves more easily)

Sharp: The Book For Men

HOW TO

Set up the Perfect $100,000 Vinyl System

You claim to enjoy music, yet listen to it solely on your laptop or iPod. Forget that noise. There’s a reason why vinyl sales are rocketing even while the record industry flounders—the format is the only worthwhile way to own your favourite music. The cold, compressed sound of MP3s can’t touch the warm, analog crackle of long players. Let Gunnar Van Vliet, owner of Toronto’s Planet of Sound, help you build the ultimate vinyl front-end

5

4

1

3 2

1/ Source

2/ Phono Cartridge

3/ Phono Preamp

4/ Power Amp

5/ Speakers

Don’t even joke about using an iPod for this one. What you need is a high-end record player. One with solid construction, top-to-bottom linearity and fluid, unforced tempi. The Kuzma Stabi M Turntable is an excellent choice. Equipped with a fourpoint tonearm, it plays music with the clarity, separation and stability of a master tape. $28,500

Many audiophiles say the cartridge—the small component that holds the stylus—has a greater effect on record playback than the turntable itself. Most vinyl aficionados prefer moving coil cartridges as opposed to moving magnet ones—the difference in sensitivity, low noise and accurate playback is staggering. Jan Allaerts’ MC2 Finish Gold Cartridge is the best one out there. It’s handmade by Mr. Allaerts himself, resulting in otherworldly power, resonance and oceanic depth. $7,500

Don’t underestimate the importance of a good preamp. Your turntable requires one to bring its sound up to a level typical stereo equipment can play. Also, due to the way records are made, a preamp will apply an “RIAA Equalization Curve” that puts more emphasis on bass than treble. Go with a Whest MC Ref V MK4 Phono Preamp. It offers lower noise levels and sound production that's so much richer than with any other preamp on the market. $21,000

Your hi-fi sound could soar or flail depending on the sort of amp you hang off it. Find one that will be able to handle lots of detail and nuance from the analog signal. The Audio Research Reference 750 Power Amplifier will gel flawlessly with your setup.

Its 750 watts of tube-driven power elevate your sound to a three-dimensional realm.

Hear the breath of the singer, the pick against the string and the conductor’s baton slicing the air. $30,000

This component is the mouthpiece of your vinyl setup—it’s your sound wave’s final destination after being processed through the amp.

Get something with excellent clarity and range, like the Sonus Faber Olympica III. While most high-end speakers try to knock you over, these focus more on achieving perfect tonal balance — the bass is only slightly emphasized, the instruments aren’t buried in the background, the timbre is slightly warm. Everything is in the right place. $16,800

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DRINKS

Wheat Beer

Wheat beer used to be something that A) your girlfriend ordered exclusively during patio season when they didn’t have cider, or, B) you drank copious amounts of in Germany during your exchange, but haven’t since. Not anymore. The centuries-old brewing style—whose higher than normal wheat-to-barley ratio delivers more protein, making for a silky mouth feel, full head and hazy appearance— is back in a delicious way. Wheat beers are typically moderate in flavour and highly effervescent, which makes them perfect for summer consumption, often with a slice of citrus. Here are five wheat beers to try now.

Hopfenweisse, Les Trois Mousquetaires

Belgian Style Wit, Mill Street

German style, Canadian ingredients for a fresh yet substantial brew with hints of papaya, mango and banana set in sturdy malt.

(6 per cent ABV)

Lack of filtration makes this extra cloudy. Notes of coriander and cloves accompany a dry citrus—try it with a wedge of grapefruit.

(5.2 per cent ABV)

Know Thy Wine Bottle

2

3

Oranje Weisse, Amsterdam Brewery

Rooster Tail, Northwinds Brewery

A Canadian favourite for over 20 years now. With notes of vanilla and banana, plus a clean, crisp palate (that’s the Bavarian style).

(5.3 per cent ABV)

A little spicier than some of the competition, as it’s made with a couple of types of orange peel, anise and coriander.

(5 per cent ABV)

Because Northwinds is a dry-hopped American pale wheat beer it’s drier and hoppier than others.

It’s infused with flavours of citrus and malty wheat.

(4.9 per cent ABV)

1/ Bordeaux

In every bottle of wine there exists a rich history and tradition. Not just in the wine itself, but in the shapes and sizes each of them comes in. Generally speaking, there are four types of wine bottle, each for a different kind of vino from a specific region of the Old World.

1

Weissbier, Denison’s

4

Featuring high shoulders and a straight profile, this bottle, for centuries, has been used in France’s Bordeaux region for wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

2/ Burgundy/ Rhône

Wider at the bottom than the Bordeaux, and featuring sloped shoulders, this bottle is customarily used in the French regions of Burgundy and Rhône Valley.

Naturally, it almost always contains Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Vigonier.

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3/ Sparkling Wine

This one is similar to the Burgundy/Rhône bottle, but thicker by design—which, of course, is necessary to withstand the 90 pounds per square inch of pressure from the bubbles inside.

The indentation on the bottom, known as the “punt,” isn’t just an esoteric frill — it’s vital to keeping the bottle from bursting.

4/ Hock

These tall, slim bottles hail from Germany and the Alsace region of France.

They’ll typically hold Reisling and Gewürztraminer—or “hock,” as Brits referred to it back in Shakespeare’s day.

The History of the Arnold Palmer

Iced tea and lemonade go together like burgers and fries, but without the legendary American golfer, this refreshing beverage might never have caught on.

Palmer invented it at home in Pennsylvania. Later, on a scorching hot day in Palm Springs, he requested the mix in a clubhouse bar. Overhearing this, another patron is said to have copied his order, dubbing it the Arnold Palmer on the spot.

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Troubleshoot a _______ that won't start Sometimes things in life just won’t turn on. But we men don’t give up when encountering a glitch.

We fine-tune, blow the cartridge and make things work. Here’s how to troubleshoot any situation

Prepare for Disaster

CAR ENGINE

COMPUTER

BOAT

CHAINSAW

Is the car silent when you turn the key?

Is the power cord plugged in?

Is there fuel in your boat?

Is there a spark?

YES

NO

Check the cord for breaks or other damage. It may need to be replaced.

Then fill ‘er up, you scallywag!

NO

You're sure the kill switch isn’t plugged in?

YES Check the battery terminal cable connections. If they look corroded, you may need to replace your cables.

NO

The engine makes a clicking noise but won’t start?

This sound usually means a dead battery.

Get it replaced.

Still won’t turn on?

Plug something else— like a lamp—into the same socket to see if there’s an issue with the outlet.

The car cranks but doesn’t start?

The cord is fine and the socket works?

Check the fuel supply to your engine. If it’s fine, see whether the electrical spark is getting to your spark plugs.

The problem could be your computer’s power supply.

The battery, fuel and spark plugs are fine?

Check the wiring to and from the starter for a loose connection.

Still nothing?

Just suck it up and go to the mechanic.

Spring / Summer 2015

NO Clean the spark plug with a steel brush. If that doesn’t work, you need a new plug.

YES NO

Then plug it in!

Hear a clicking noise?

Your hard drive may be broken. Remove it, bag it and store it in the freezer for a couple hours.

It kills the engine when it’s pulled out.

But it needs to be attached in the first place or the engine won’t start!

Are your battery and engine connections in place?

If so, and nothing happens when you turn the key, the problem may be an electrical one. You likely have faulty cables or wornout spark plugs.

Is the engine turning but not starting?

The issue may be with your air/fuel system.

Make sure the primer bulb is hard and that there’s no water in the fuel filter.

Still nothing?

Bring it to the “geniuses” at the store you purchased it from. And, seriously, good luck.

Still nothing?

Hopefully you’re not lost at sea…

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HOW TO

Is there fuel in the tank?

Make sure the mixture is correct. You need 2½ ounces of oil for every gallon of gas.

Is the starter rope not recoiling?

The rewind spring is likely broken, preventing the engine from turning over fast enough to start.

Do you smell fuel when you try to start it?

Your engine may be flooded. Remove the spark plug and check for moisture. If you see any, there’s too much fuel in the engine. Drain it!

Still nothing?

It’s probably the carburetor, which is tough to fix. Ask your neighbour for help… unless he often wears a leather mask.

Regardless of the form they take (zombie-related or more traditional) large-scale disasters do happen. It makes sense to be prepared.

While we’re not suggesting purchasing a grain silo and black market weaponry to protect it, at the very least a man should be prepared to go without access to food, water or electricity for 72 hours.

Here are the basics to have on hand: • 1 large backpack, preferably waterproof • 1 litre of water per person, per day (minimum) in shelf-stable containers • water purifying tablets • light, portable, nonperishable food (minimum 600 calories per person per day) such as energy bars, MREs and dehydrated camping meals • 1 hand-cranked flashlight • 1 hand-cranked radio • 1 reflective survival blanket per person • 2 36-hour candles • 1 box of waterproof matches • 2 rolls toilet paper • 1 multi-tool (including knife and can opener) • 1 first-aid kit (containing bandages, gauze, alcohol swabs, latex gloves and tweezers) • 1 travel-sized container of liquid soap • 1 pair work gloves • 1 N95 respirator mask per person • 20 feet of 550 paracord • 1 roll heavy duty duct tape

Manual

HOME

Re-floor Your House

You know your hardwood from your laminate, your tile from your cork. But, there are options within options. Before you call the contractor, here are the best floors for each room in your house Kitchen

Brazilian Cherry This exotic, reddish brown hardwood hails from the Amazon rainforest.

Kitchen floors need to be resilient and sturdy. This is tough enough to withstand an attack from 100 black caimans, or a few kids discovering where you keep your pots and pans.

Installation tip: Brazilian cherry is really—really!—difficult to install. You’ll want to hire a pro to do the job. But, the majority of installers are only experienced with softer domestic species. Choose one who’s certified by the National Wood Flooring Association.

Price: $20/sq ft

Living Room

Dining Room

Rose Aurora Azul

Macassar Ebony

The pièce de résistance of Portuguese marble tiles. Sublime enough to be used for Roman sculptures, sturdy enough to make the perfect floor. The Azul is the rarest of the Rose Aurora family—it’s blue, quarried from the same location as the better known pink marbles. It makes for one hell of a conversation piece.

Installation tip: Rose Aurora can be particularly susceptible to cracking if not installed on a level surface. Use the longest level possible to make sure your floor is completely flat. Sand down any bumps that raise the floor.

Price: $58/sq ft

A striking black and brown hardwood streaked with golden and orange hues.

It’s from Southeast Asia, and is so rare it’s nearly a protected species. But the wood is truly prized for being aesthetically stunning, sturdy and easy to clean—no matter how much wine you spill on it.

Installation tip: Once you’ve established a starting point, secure a backer board to the subfloor and start nailing. Your best bet is to use 2-inch cleats, one to two inches from the board ends and six to eight inches apart with a minimum two cleats per board.

Price: $150/sq ft

Buy something you enjoy

HOW TO

Invest in Antiques

Antiques add a layer of aesthetic satisfaction that you just can’t get from IKEA (plus, no assembly is required), but they can also be a solid investment. Here’s how to buy pieces that will do well for you – Cynthia Findlay, from Toronto Antiques on King, as told to Coleman Molnar

Manual

Unlike stocks, antiques are physical entities, so pick an item that gives you pleasure to look at or touch.

Buy Quality

If you’re going to buy a piece by some dead Italian glassblower, buy one by the best dead Italian glassblower. If it’s signed, even better.

Bedroom

Hawaiian Acacia Koa Boasting incredibly sophisticated grain and remarkable tonewood, Koa is the national wood of Hawaii—the only place it grows. The island happens to be extremely protective of the wood, which makes us covet it even more. The wood is most easily recognized by its highly figured grain and rich red tone. Your boudoir deserves the best.

Installation tip: Your floor should be delivered at least 72 hours prior to installation. Since wood shrinks and expands, make sure the heating or air conditioning is on so the acacia can acclimate to the conditions in your home.

Price: $200/sq ft

Be suspicious

There are those who would dupe you and fakes abound. Do your homework and consult a pro. Some items are easier to validate, like British Sterling Silver, as it is all hallmarked for quality.

Buy statement pieces, not clutter One large, stunning piece of porcelain does

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Bathroom

Lux Touch Pietra Firma claims to make the most luxurious flooring in the world. And seeing as each handcrafted tile is encrusted with mother-ofpearls, diamonds, abalone shells and black onyx, they’re probably not wrong.

Visitors will be so impressed by your bathroom floor they’ll forget to snoop though your medicine cabinet.

Installation tip: This flooring is way too valuable for you to risk botching this. Hire a pro to do the job. Find a contractor from a trusted network, like BaeumlerApproved.ca.

Price: $100,000/sq ft

Clean Up Your Closet

As men become more stylish, they also need to be more organized Having a well-organized closet is a relatively tiny detail when it comes to your home but can save you precious time — after all, you’re going to hit the snooze button anyway. An organized closet will give you the time to do that, guilt free.

1/ Cleanse Your Pallet

Start by taking absolutely everything out of your closet to see what you have. Yes, even that pile of weekend-only t-shirts stashed in the back corner.

2/ Prep Your Ingredients

Organize the clothing by piles. One for your favourite pieces, one for items that no longer fit, another for clothes that have gone out of style (goodbye wide legged cargos). Try on the clothes you're unsure of. Nostalgia aside, if they don’t look good, toss (or donate) them. Organizing means getting rid of useless clutter where you can.

3/ Create a System

more for a room than 100 small ones. This isn’t Pokémon.

Protect your investment

Keep your records and receipts, and communicate with your insurance company to see what’s required for coverage. Leave it in a safe place, but don’t lock it in a safe (see rule one).

Allocate parts of your closet to specific items, and how you wear them.

Sweaters on one side, suits and blazers on the other, pants and buttonup shirts in between. Find room in your drawers for denim and t-shirts.

4/ Don’t Fear the Rack

Buy a shoe rack that fits seamlessly into the closet under your clothes. No man can be trusted to keep his shoes organized without one. Racks impose order. Line shoes by style and type.

Sharp: The Book For Men

Style Manual S P R I N G

S U M M E R 2

0

1

5

EDIT OR’S LET TER

Opposing Forces

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

FASHION CAN BE FICKLE. Sometimes designers seem to be on the same page, offering up a host of complementary collections that make it easy to pick out new pieces to add to your wardrobe. But other times, there is no consensus. That’s where we’re at right now. And that’s a good thing. We’re in a creative free-for-all, with opposing ideas of menswear bumping into each other, all in the name of style.

This year, the streamlined shapes that have come to define contemporary menswear, which can sometimes feel as restricting as the slim pants we’re accustomed to wearing, have been challenged by a general loosening up, both literally and figuratively. Sure, you can keep your slim-fit jeans, but now there’s also the option of relaxed cuts, athletic details, bolder accents and warm, retro colours and fabrics.

While any shift can sound ominous, or at the very least confusing, remember that this is what’s fun about fashion. It’s alive, evolving — a flurry of new ideas that won’t all stick, nor should they. But, that doesn’t make it any easier to discern what to embrace and what to avoid.

We’ve put together the Style Manual so you can navigate these shifts in spring and summer fashion—and figure out how to straddle the divide between old and new.

MAT T H E W BI E H L, FA S H I O N E D I T O R

PART I

TA I L O R I N G . . . . .1 8 1 PART II

O U T E R W E A R . .1 8 5 PART III

SHIRTS. . . . . . .1 89 PART IV

T R O U S E R S . . . . .1 9 3 PART V

F O OT W E A R . . . .1 9 7 Still Life

Photography by: Matt Doyle

Photography by: Liam Mogan

Styling by: Christopher Campbell for Atelier Management

Styling by: Joanne Jin

Grooming by: Liz Olivier

Previous Page:

Stylisting Assistants: Marc Anthony George and Maria Lord

Style Manual

PART VI

ACCESSORIES...201 PART VII

T I M E P I E C E S ... 205

Cotton suit ($1,195) by BOSS; shirt ($120) and linen-silk blend tie ($65)

by Tommy Hilfiger; cotton pocket square ($40) by Club Monaco.

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Photo: Matt Barnes

On-Model

PART I:

TA I L O R I N G

Beige, But Never Boring BREAKING OUT a tan suit is one of the best parts of summer.

Make it feel extra fresh by pairing it with a matching khaki shirt—and tie and pocket square, for that matter.

You may have mastered pattern mixing, but think of dressing monochrome as a palate cleanser, a breath of fresh summer air. But, draw the line at matching shoes—brown derbies or allwhite sneakers will do just fine. (See our picks on pages 197 and 199).

Wool jacket ($995), cotton shirt ($395) and cotton pants ($595) by Calvin Klein Collection.

TH E RIG HT WATCH

Roger Dubuis EXCALIBUR AUTOMATIC SKELETON $73,600

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Style Manual

SIZE UP

LAPELS HAVE BEEN ON THE straight and narrow for a while, but now width is the thing.

Wide lapels command attention. They look most at home in a broad peak on a double-breasted suit. The only caveat: if you’re a slim guy, be careful how wide you go with your lapels so as not to overwhelm your frame.

From left to right: Wool blazer ($850) by Tiger of Sweden; Linen blazer ($750) by SAND; cotton-linen blend blazer ($2,416) by Michael Bastian; linen blazer ($1,195) by Z Zegna; wool blazer ($3,850) by Pal Zileri, at Via Cavour; wool-silk-linen blend blazer ($1,495) by BOSS.

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PART II:

OUTERWEAR

Pattern Play LIVEN UP YOUR outerwear by embracing some bold patterns. Brendan Mullane at Brioni layered an enlarged houndstooth over a Prince of Wales check for a modern mix of two very traditional prints. Depending on the way the light hits, you see one, the other or both.

It makes for a visually arresting and unique piece — which should describe you, too. Stick to a classic cut, and let the print do the talking.

Wool jacket ($6,850) by Brioni; cotton polo shirt ($400) by Fendi; linen blend pants ($560) by John Varvatos; leather belt ($120) by hook+Albert; sunglasses ($245) by Hugo Boss.

TH E RIG HT WATCH

Concord C1 TOURBILLON $59,000

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Style Manual

Smooth Operator WE WANT YOU TO WEAR a suede trench in deep forest green. We really do. But we understand that, for whatever reason, you might disagree. So, here’s a more approachable option: a pale brown jacket that hits right at the waist, toughened up with some zippers and stitching detailing. It’s got the same punch, only it’s easier to pull off.

Suede jacket ($400) by Bugatti; cotton shirt ($30) by Uniqlo.

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Style Manual

CONSIDER TH E SPREAD

OXFORD

COLLAR

SURE, picking up shirts in different prints and colours is an obvious way to diversify your wardrobe, but have you given a thought to your collar? Point and mandarin collars, relics from another era, are fresh again, thanks to relatively little play recently. They are exact opposites —one demanding to be noticed, the other barely there. While any style of collar you choose will look at home under a blazer, some can handle being more dressed up (banker, spread, point ) than others (mandarin, oxford, club). Best to stock up.

MANDARIN

BANKER

Clockwise from top left: Cotton shirt ($148) by Strellson; silk tie ($65) by Tommy Hilfiger. Cotton shirt ($310) by Bespoken. Cotton shirt ($100) by Brooks Brothers; silk tie ($170) by Etro. Cotton shirt ($130) by Ben Sherman. Wool blazer ($6,895)

by Kiton; cotton shirt ($245) by Circle of Gentlemen; linen tie ($250) by Isaia Napoli; metal tie bar ($15) by The Tie Bar; silk pocket square ($215) by Kiton. Cotton shirt ($40) by Joe Fresh.

POINTED

Style Manual

CLUB

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PART IV:

TROUSERS

Pleats and Thank You THERE WAS A TIME you thought you had sworn off pleats forever.

You were wise to do so, until recently. Instead of adding unnecessary bulk like the pleats of old, they’ve been reinvented as small tailoring details, used sparingly (only one or two at a time) to help with fit and add some interest to the front of a trouser.

Cotton-wool blend pants ($8,705) by Hermès

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Style Manual

PART V:

FOOTWEAR

Off to the Races A DERBY is decidedly less fancy than an oxford (look at the eyelet tabs to tell them apart: a derby has them stitched on top of the vamp, while an oxford has them underneath). But the practical design, devoid of decoration—it was once but a humble hunting boot after all—is what makes it so appealing. Rich leather, polished to perfection, is all you need to make a statement.

Leather shoes ($550) by WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie.

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Style Manual

MONEY PENNIES

A CLASSIC black or brown penny loafer will never go out of style, but that doesn’t mean that those are your only options. There are lots of different colours and textiles around. Nothing says you can’t have some fun even with such a traditional slip-on shoe.

Cotton-linen blend pants ($295) by Michael Kors; leather penny loafers ($915) by Etro.

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Clean Kicks WHITE SNEAKERS are a new footwear staple thanks to their unfussy appearance. They look just as good with jeans as they do with a suit (depending on the occasion, of course). Whether they’re made of leather or canvas, perfectly pristine or with the smallest hint of an accent colour, they will work. Just make sure they’re clean.

Clockwise from top left: Joe Fresh ($50); Tiger of Sweden ($120); Fred Perry ($110), at Gravity Pope; National Standard ($315), at Gravity Pope; Tommy Hilfiger ($130); Gucci ($625); Adidas ($105); Converse x Jack Purcell ($80), at Gravity Pope.

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Style Manual

PART VI:

ACCESSORIES

Carry On LESS STUFFY than a briefcase, more professional than a backpack, and roomier than both, a quality leather tote can bridge the gap between work, home and even a weekend away (if you pack light).

Look for premium details like metal feet and reinforced stitching. They serve a practical purpose while adding visual interest at the same time.

Cotton blazer ($300) by Tommy Hilfiger; cotton blend shirt ($125) by Victorinox, cotton blend pants ($40) by Joe Fresh; leather and elastic belt ($390) by Ermenegildo Zenga; leather loafers ($250) by Tommy Hilfiger; leather tote ($1,950) by Bally.

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Style Manual

Warm Up

SILVERY TONES have started to feel a little clinical, which is why jewelry in warm metals like gold, rose gold and bronze are so welcome. They’re the best supporting characters a guy could ask for, never overwhelming, but lending an earthy and grounded presence —without verging into hippie territory.

Clockwise from top left: 14k gold plated hook bracelet ($155) by Miansai, at Elevator; black onyx and brass beaded bracelet ($80) by George Frost, at Elevator; bronze plated bracelet ($445) by John Hardy, at Holt Renfrew; black onyx and 18k rose gold plated cuff links ($465) by Thomas Sabo; brass tie clip ($45) by In God We Trust, at Elevator.

SCHOOL’S OUT The satchel has been upgraded with rich leathers in unexpected colours (yes, you can have a green bag) and contrasting shoulder straps.

It’s the perfect commuter bag, no matter how you travel.

Style Manual

GUCCI $2,950

BURBERRY PRORSUM $2,795

202

LOUIS VUITTON $5,650

Sharp: The Book For Men

PART VII:

TIMEPIECES

Take Flight AS LONG AS MEN DREAM of flight, Breitling’s obsession with aviation will serve them well. And it will serve you well, too.

Several years ago Breitling reintroduced the Chronomat as their flagship collection of modern watches.

The Chronomat comes in a range of sizes (44mm wide in this case) and each contains a mechanical movement made in-house. The Chronomat 44 GMT has a 12-hour chronograph for timing trips and events, as well as a GMT hand that indicates the hour in a second time zone. Whether you happen to be a pilot, or just a traveler, your flight is waiting.

Jersey knit blazer ($1,850) and cotton shirt ($700) by Louis Vuitton; silk pocket square ($70) by hook+Albert; Chronomat 44 GMT watch ($12,565) by Breitling.

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The Modern Watch Matrix A usability chart

FORMAL

URWERK UR-210S $212,480

IWC PORTUGIESER PPC 75TH ANNIVERSARY $52,700

CARTIER CLÉ DE CARTIER $41,300

ARNOLD & SON INSTRUMENT COLLECTION DSTB PRICE UPON REQUEST

LONGINES CONQUEST CLASSIC MOONPHASE $6,150

HERMÈS SLIM D’HERMÈS $8,500

SPECIALIZED

VERSATILE

TUDOR PELAGOS $4,770

Style Manual

RADO HYPERCHROME AUTO CHRONO TACHYMETER $5,200

ZENITH EL PRIMERO SPORT $13,750

INFORMAL

BULOVA SEA KING $900

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HAMILTON KHAKI CHRONO WORLDTIMER $1,495

THOMAS SABO REBEL AT HEART $450

Sharp: The Book For Men