FA L L · W I N T E R · 2 0 1 1
The COMPLETE
STYLE MANUAL INSIDE
S T Y L E · A C C E S S O R I E S · A U T O M O B I L E S · T R AV E L WAT C H E S · S U I T S · T R E N D S · A DV I C E COVER-BFM.indd 1
11-08-24 1:43 PM
The
BOOK F o r MEN
CONTENTS FALL/WINTER 2 011
FRONT OF BOOK
FA S H I O N F E AT U R E S 090—099
MEAN STREETS
036
The dark side of urbanity
114—121
Bespoke or bust
THE DECADE OF MEN
038
Six icons of the 1970s
124—133
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Make it new
FORT TILDEN
040
Man is an island
156—163
FOREWORD
RETURN OF THE PREPPIES A classic style for the aspiring gentleman
WHISTLER
042
Power and powder: the perfect combination
THE CLASSIC ICONOCLAST Barker Black creates traditional footwear with a rock ’n’ roll sensibility
THE BOOK FOR MEN
26
BOOK F o r MEN
CONTENTS
BOSS Selection
FALL/WINTER 2 011
HUGO BOSS CANADA INC. Phone +1 905 739 2677 www.hugoboss.com
The
FRONT OF BOOK 044
046
ESSENTIALS
INSPIRED BY US Vancouver-based Wings + Horns defines
THE ONE THING EVERY MAN MUST HAVE
Canadian fashion
The man safe
54—55
THE JACKET, DECONSTRUCTED
56—75
Exploring the layered anatomy of your suit
048
Ten trends that will endure the test of time
TEQUILA’S RENAISSANCE
76—81
Premium agave is catching on
050—052
THE 10 FOR MEN
FRAGRANCES Never underestimate the power of the perfect scent
A PASSIVE ADVENTURE
82—87
Lose yourself on a catamaran cruise
SHOES & BELTS Every great outfit requires a solid foundation
THE BOOK FOR MEN
28
The
BOOK F o r MEN
CONTENTS FALL/WINTER 2 011
Ecoluxury. When something doesn’t exist, you invent it. Leaders know how to make a change. The all-new S-Class provides unmatched eco-friendly luxury. Whether it’s the new S 350 BlueTEC with the only diesel in its class or the first Lithium Ion Hybrid production sedan, you’ll be a leader. Or choose our powerful new V8, with even more horsepower and 20% greater fuel economy. Either way, you will become an Eco CEO. Visit mercedes-benz.ca
ESSENTIALS 100—107
TIMEPIECES
POCKET-SIZED LUXURY
134—139
Pint-sized pieces to complete your style
DAY TIMERS Every man needs an iconic, accessible and reliable timepiece
108—113
LAYERS 140—141
Assemble a warm ensemble with
MEN IN BLACK...AND RED The hottest watch trend of the moment?
these winter pieces
We’ve got three words for you: black and red
150—155
ELECTRONICS 142—149
Spice up your tech game with these gadgets
ULTIMATE TIME Four superwatches that will blow your mind
THE BOOK FOR MEN
30
© 2011 Mercedes-Benz Canada Inc.
The
BOOK F o r MEN
CONTENTS FALL/WINTER 2 011
AU T O M O B I L E S 164—167
MANual
2012 LAMBORGHINI AVENTADOR LP 700-4
Our 32-page MANual is filled with tips for men—from embracing grey hair and finding the perfect scent, to landing a plane and crafting a Samurai sword.
The raging bull from Sant'Agata Bolognese unveils the new supercar reference point
168—169
179– 242
2012 BMW 650I CABRIOLET The drop-top, drop-dead gorgeous Grand Tourer is back
170—171
2012 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS 4.0 The 997 generation goes out with a bang
STYLE MANUAL
T R AV E L 172—177
NAMIBIA ON SPEED Africa is full of surprises, and there’s no better
The Style MANual tells you what to look for in men's fashion and how to make it work for you. Because everyone needs sartorial assistance from time to time.
way to see them all than on a blazing fast bike
195– 226
THE BOOK FOR MEN
32
THE ONE
1
THING EVERY MAN MUST HAVE:
A SAFE
“Safety first,� that’s what your parents always told you. As a kid, you undoubtedly dismissed those words—if something was safe, it couldn’t possibly be worthwhile, right? But as you’ve grown, that little nugget has started to make more and more sense. You’ve worked hard and rewarded yourself with a collection of expensive items—not to mention the sentimental value—and you want to protect those things. This swanky vault will keep your watches, wallets, cufflinks and trinkets out of harm’s way. Safety never looked so sexy.
} The Man Safe from California -based Bro w n S a f e i n c l u d e s e i g h t w a t c h w i n d e r s a n d t h re e i n t e r i o r d ra w e r s, s p o r t s a h i g h g l o s s ext erior and ultrasuede inte rior with Macassa r e b o ny tr im . It i s e q u i p p e d w i t h a ½ - i n c h s o l i d s t e e l d o o r w i t h Ÿ - i n c h s t e e l b o d y, f l u s h pr y -resistant door, solid steel 1-inch locking b o l t s w i t h a n t i - d r i v e re s i s t a n c e, f i v e i n d e p e n d e n t a c t i v e a n d p a s s i v e re l o c k i n g d e v i c e s, harde ned ste e l ball-be aring hardpla te a nd a 1-inch l a m ina te d , inte rl o cke d a nd d o ubl e -w e ld e d d o o r j a m b. $ 9, 4 75
P H O T O G R A P H BY C A R LY L E R O U T H
THE BOOK FOR MEN
54
ST YLIST: ALIC IA SIMPS ON /PLU TINO G ROUP; HAIR AND M AKE -UP: WEN DY RO RONG/PLUTINO GROUP FOR TRESEMMÉ TRES TW O EXTRA HOLD AEROSOL HAIRSPRAY; MODEL: KRI STEN AUBI N/ SUTHERLA ND MO DELS
THE
THE ONE
1
THING EVERY MAN MUST HAVE:
A SAFE
“Safety first,� that’s what your parents always told you. As a kid, you undoubtedly dismissed those words—if something was safe, it couldn’t possibly be worthwhile, right? But as you’ve grown, that little nugget has started to make more and more sense. You’ve worked hard and rewarded yourself with a collection of expensive items—not to mention the sentimental value—and you want to protect those things. This swanky vault will keep your watches, wallets, cufflinks and trinkets out of harm’s way. Safety never looked so sexy.
} The Man Safe from California -based Bro w n S a f e i n c l u d e s e i g h t w a t c h w i n d e r s a n d t h re e i n t e r i o r d ra w e r s, s p o r t s a h i g h g l o s s ext erior and ultrasuede inte rior with Macassa r e b o ny tr im . It i s e q u i p p e d w i t h a ½ - i n c h s o l i d s t e e l d o o r w i t h Ÿ - i n c h s t e e l b o d y, f l u s h pr y -resistant door, solid steel 1-inch locking b o l t s w i t h a n t i - d r i v e re s i s t a n c e, f i v e i n d e p e n d e n t a c t i v e a n d p a s s i v e re l o c k i n g d e v i c e s, harde ned ste e l ball-be aring hardpla te a nd a 1-inch l a m ina te d , inte rl o cke d a nd d o ubl e -w e ld e d d o o r j a m b. $ 9, 4 75
P H O T O G R A P H BY C A R LY L E R O U T H
THE BOOK FOR MEN
54
ST YLIST: ALIC IA SIMPS ON /PLU TINO G ROUP; HAIR AND M AKE -UP: WEN DY RO RONG/PLUTINO GROUP FOR TRESEMMÉ TRES TW O EXTRA HOLD AEROSOL HAIRSPRAY; MODEL: KRI STEN AUBI N/ SUTHERLA ND MO DELS
THE
10 THE TEN
THE TEN
THE
FOR
MEN FALL 2011 TRENDS FOR BETTER LIVING
What is the difference between a trend and a fad? Both terms imply a fresh perspective (or, sometimes, the reinvention of an old practice), but whereas a fad tends to flame out almost as quickly as it appears, a trend grows, gaining strength and followers until it becomes a mainstay in our collective consciousness. The Top 10 for Men is concerned with trends—ideas, technologies and style movements that make us see and think in ways we hadn’t before. Whether it’s a biometrically enhanced wallet, an automobile that sets the benchmark for green luxury and performance or a watch that does what no other timepiece can, we’re fascinated by new ideas that others will follow in years to come. These 10 trends will endure the test of time.
THE BOOK FOR MEN
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1
MECHANICAL REVOLUTION
V
INNOVATIVE TIMEPIECES ARE SHAKING UP THE ESTABLISHMENT
irtually everything we manufacture is driven by computers that control high-performance machinery. The human touch has been lost, except when it comes to premium timepieces. The primary tools of watchmakers remain their finely tuned hands, eyes and minds—there are no motherboards, online connections or native applications to streamline the process. The trick, of course, is to continuously improve mechanics to move the art form forward, and this piece by Christophe Claret is a prime example of how it's done: it lets you play 21 on the dial, roulette on the caseback or craps with three 1.5 mm dice visible through the case side—all produced mechanically. It's classic and revolutionary at the same time. $ 2 3 0 , 5 0 0 THE BOOK FOR MEN
57
THE PERFECT SCENT
} A cologne classic, Davidoff Cool Water is perfectly crisp for the fall. With notes of iced tea and mint, musk and incense, it’s subtly pleasing and easily transitions from day to night. It’s a scent that evokes tradition and effortless elegance. ($65)
FRAGRANCES NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE POWER OF THE PERFECT SCENT WORDS BY SADAF AHSAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADRIAN ARMSTRONG
Finding your signature scent is essential: it’s one of the first things people notice about you, and it speaks to your innate essence. Who you are, where you’re going, what you like and dislike—it’s all there in that first whiff. Each of these five fragrances embodies a unique character, a philosophy of life to wear and embrace.
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A SOLID FOUNDATION
SHOES & BELTS EVERY GREAT OUTFIT REQUIRES A SOLID FOUNDATION WORDS BY DEREK DOTTO PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADRIAN ARMSTRONG
Some fashion rules come and go, but here’s one that remains as relevant as ever: Your shoes and your belt should always match. It doesn’t matter whether you're dressing up or down, your shoes and belt must always be synchronized. Why? Because they’re your style anchors, the cornerstones of any outfit. Do yourself a favour this fall and think of footwear and waist-wear as a package deal.
FIG. 1
} A fa sh io n r ule y o u c a n igno re is the one that b ans white afte r Lab ou r Day —white works all year if you do it right. A contrasting tread can lighten the load of a dark shoe and give your fall wardrobe the playfu l edge it may be lacking. And a d istressed leather belt fur thers the street-smar t vibe without stealing the spo t ligh t. (Shoe s: Lacoste, $170; Be lt: B OSS Oran g e, $135)
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82
FIG. 1
LAYERS
LAYERS ASSEMBLE A WARM ENSEMBLE WITH THESE WINTER PIECES WORDS BY LANCE CHUNG PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADRIAN ARMSTRONG
Layering is about creating a cohesive image consisting of singular pieces, each with its own, specific role, contributing to an overall look. A bright scarf peeking out from underneath the confines of your winter coat, a smart cap and a stylish set of gloves—put them all together and you have this season’s coolest looks.
FIG. 1
} Th e i n f u s i o n o f b r i g h t o ra n g e i n t h i s j a c k e t a d d s a n e l e m e n t o f pl a y f u l n e s s t o a c l a s s i c c a s u a l d e s i g n a n d a re v e r s i bl e s c a r f g i v e s y o u o p t i o n s. Co l o u r f u l k n i t g l o v e s e m p h a s i ze t h a t y o u ’ re o u t f o r f u n a n d t h e re ’s no b e t t e r w a y t o k e e p y o u r c ra n i u m w a r m t h a n a ca s hmere to q u e. (Ja ck et: D ies el , $ 38 5; Ha t: Er men eg il do Zeg n a , $ 18 5; S ca r f : S co tc h & So d a, $6 9 ; G l o v e s : Be n Sh e r m an, $4 8)
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109
TIMEPIECES
THESE FOUR WATCHES ARE ABOUT MUCH MORE THAN KEEPING TIME. T H E Y R E P R E S E N T A R T I N I T S H I G H E S T, M O S T T E C H N I C A L , F O R M
WORDS BY CAROL BESLER P H O T O G R A P H Y BY M I C H A E L D AV I D A D A M S
I
t is no overstatement to suggest that what you are about to view is one of the greatest collections of superwatches ever assembled for a single photo shoot. Gathering these timepieces in the same room was the equivalent of a sports lover being invited to kick back with Roger Federer, Tiger Woods, Michael Schumacher and Tom Brady. All of these watches possess the qualities of a top athlete: endurance, power and great engineering. The movement of the Harry Winston Opus Eleven ( F I G . 1 & 2 ) took 14,400 hours to engineer—“And that,” comments brand CEO Frederic de Narp, “is the essence of extreme luxury.” It works by deconstructing and then reassembling time every hour: 24 placards revolve and rotate on a complex system of gears that work in unison to reformulate the time. Minutes are shown on a double-disk system that, like the balance wheel, protrudes from the case side in its own orbit. $ 2 2 9 , 0 0 0 Aesthetically speaking, the Urwerk 110 Torpedo ( F I G . 3 ) is strongly influenced by the German U-boat. A planetary gearing system activates three “torpedo” satellites that synchronize to manoeuvre the 3D angles of a multi-level dial to indicate the time. The case is titanium, and the dial features a seconds subdial
and an “oil change” indicator, reminding the wearer when it’s time for servicing. $ 8 7 , 0 0 0 The MB&F HM2’s ( F I G . 4 ) front plate is made of a single massive sapphire crystal that takes 55 hours to carve. A green gasket separates it from the caseback, made of black PVD-coated titanium, and a 22k gold rotor on the back is green PVD-coated to match. The movement, by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht using a Girard-Perregaux base, is the world’s first to offer instantaneous jumping hour, concentric retrograde minutes, retrograde date, bihemisphere moon phase and automatic winding. It is a masterpiece of high-tech simplicity that makes us wonder why we ever told time in the conventional way. $ 1 1 0 , 0 0 0 The concept behind the Hublot Key of Time ( F I G . 5 ) is simple, and wonderfully arrogant: it allows the wearer to master time. The movement incorporates a mechanism that can either accelerate or suspend time at the push of a button—the idea being that happy moments are suspended, and unhappy moments can be curtailed. It’s an illusion, of course (another button returns the hands to real time), but when you’re wearing a superwatch, it seems fitting that you should assume superhuman powers, too. $ 2 6 0 , 0 0 0
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ST YLING: HAROLD JAY MELVIN/WWW. KENBAR BOZA.COM; MAKEUP AR TIST: VIK T OR IJA BOWERS/BENEFIT COSMETICS; HAIR STYLIST: JEANIE SYFU/TRESEMMÉ; MODEL: EVA KA SS/ Q MA NAGEMENT NYC
ULTIMATE TIME
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 2
WHISTLER POWER AND POWDER: THE PERFECT COMBINATION FA S H I O N D I R E C T I O N BY LU K E L A NG S D A L E ; P H O T O G R A P H Y BY V I NC E N T L I O N S
Whistler Blackcomb in British Columbia is one of the world’s most famed ski destinations. Hit the slopes during the day and, once the sun goes down, head back to the luxurious lodge to warm up.
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ST YLIST: LUKE LANGSDALE; ASSISTANT STYLIST: KR ISTINE H AGED ORN; MALE M OD EL : MATEJ MECAR/LIZBELL AGENCY; FE MALE MO DEL: MELISSA STEPHAN/RICHARDSMODELS.COM; HA I R A ND MA KEUP: DANA MOONEY, JUDYI NC.COM / M. A .C. COSM ETI CS
FASHION
AU T O M O B I L E S
2012 LAMBORGHINI AVENTADOR LP 700-4 THE NEW SUPERCAR REFERENCE POINT
WORDS BY BRADLEY HORN
I
t’s difficult to encapsulate exactly how emphatically the Italian populace adores Lamborghini until you’ve stormed through Rome in a vehicle wearing the badge of the bull from Sant’Agata Bolognese—even if the symbol is simply emblazoned on a tour bus full of foreign scribes. It’s enough to stop people in their tracks: There was none of the capital’s notorious blaring of horns, expletives hurled out windows or arms gesturing manically. The raging bull commands respect. We were on the way to Vallelunga raceway, north of Rome, to experience Lamborghini’s new flagship model, the Aventador, from the hot seat. Named, as per tradition, after a particularly courageous fighting bull of the Spanish Corrida, this is only the seventh V12 model the company has launched since Ferruccio Lamborghini set up shop in 1963. Aventador is no mere evolution of the Murciélago it replaces, but an entirely new beast. It is the world’s first road-going production car with a complete carbon-fibre monocoque passenger cell, 30 percent lighter and 15 percent
stiffer than the old flagship’s structure. Bolt on the front and rear aluminum subframes and a naked Aventador weighs just 506 lb. This Lambo is manic about maximizing power-to-weight and targeted to carve corners as brilliantly as any creation from arch-nemesis Ferrari. Designer Filippo Perini started his career as a mechanical engineer before trading calculator for pencil—his work is visually striking and keeps the eggheads in aerodynamics happy. Note the flourishes like the barely onemetre height, the carbon-fibre rear spoiler that deploys at speed, the massive, single, hexagonal exhaust pipe and, of course, those signature scissor doors. Which brings us to the heart of this bull: the new mid-mounted 6.5-litre V12. It’s lighter, sits lower and revs higher than the mill in the Murciélago. Visible under the transparent engine cover, the dry sump engine makes 700 horsepower at an exosphere-high 8,250 rpm and 509 lb-ft of torque over a curve as flat as Italian marble. The engine’s 20 percent more efficient, too. »
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MANual
MANual
5 Scents to Get You Through the Winter through the winter weather. Count on timeless winter smells, including patchouli, sandalwood and spice, to name a few. Here are some of our favourite fall and winter scents.
TOM FORD GREY VETIVER
NEW HAARLEM BY BOND NO. 9
FAHRENHEIT BY DIOR
GUCCI BY GUCCI POUR HOMME
RALPH LAUREN POLO BLUE
This is the fragrance for
If the smell of roasting coffee
This nearly 20-year-old
Gucci Pour Homme is modern
This pleasant aquatic blend
those looking to exude power.
beans gets you excited, Bond
fragrance is a no-brainer for
and masculine. The notes
evokes a crispy scent, the
Including vetiver, the concoc-
No. 9’s New Haarlem may
the winter weather. One of
include bergamot, cypress, vio-
culmination of spicy basil,
tion holds notes of grapefruit,
just be your blend. A mix of
the more rich and distinctive
let incense, tobacco, jasmine,
lush watery melon, cucum-
orange flower, sage, nutmeg,
bergamot, cedarwood, coffee,
scents around, Fahrenheit
patchouli, amber and elemi
ber, tangerine and clary
orris, pimiento, amber woods
vanilla, patchouli and lavender,
carries top-notes of bergamot,
for an intensely dark mix.
sage absolute. Other notes
and oak moss. Ford himself
the lush scent is decidedly
lemon, orange and lavender,
The brand echoes a modern
include moss, suede, amber
puts it best: “It’s the fra-
masculine. New Haarlem’s
with sandalwood, leather,
elegance, and the touch of
wood and patchouli, produc-
grance equivalent of the clas-
patchouli notes add a woody,
amber, musk and a hint of pa-
tobacco heightens its edge.
ing a cool fragrance with a
sic blue blazer, the beautiful
dark layer, while the fresh
tchouli and vetiver. Considered
Simultaneously woody, warm
slight hint of musk. A fresh,
watch or the cap-toed shoe.”
lavender softens it, leaving
a woody floral musk, it's one
and sweet, this one is for the
subtle scent, Polo Blue is
We couldn’t agree more.
a surprising subtle smell.
of the sexiest scents out there.
distinguished few.
long lasting and classic.
($85/50 ml)
($150/100 ml)
($38/30 ml)
($68/50 ml)
($60/125 ml) SA
FRANCIS KURKDJIAN (TH E " N O S E " O F GAULTI ER ) We sat down with the man behind Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male fragrance, the most commercially successful male scent on the market, to learn about the art of perfuming.
Book for Men: When creating a fragrance, where do you draw inspiration from? Francis Kurkdjian: It all depends on my mood really. I have many sources of inspiration from music to ballet to literature—a single word can be very inspiring. BFM: What was it like to work directly with Jean Paul Gaultier on Le Male? FK: There were two main concepts that we wanted in the fragrance. The first was a tribute to the old barbershops—a very chic and elegant old style. Yet, Mr. Gaultier also wanted something edible in the sense that you felt like you could eat the scent off a man's skin, not in the sense of something chocolaty or sweet or food-like, but just the idea that a woman is so excited to be with her man that she wants to eat him. She wants to put her nose in his neck. BFM: When creating a new fragrance, do you envision a specific man or woman that embodies the scent? FK: You have to really focus on the designer you work for. If I'm not invited to the fashion shows, I try to get videotapes, watch interviews. I always say that when you create for someone else, you have to be like an actor. You have to play a script that is not written by you. You have to find a precise fit and common language so that when you create the fragrance you are in their environment.
BFM: How precise are perfume formulas? Is there a big difference if you make a small change in a recipe, like adding or taking out a drop of one ingredient? FK: The drop might change the story. It's like a cooking recipe. Think about the proportions of an apple tart: if you add too much sugar, you will ruin the recipe. Basically, it's not because you're adding or taking away a small amount, it's more about the impact of that product within the formula that makes the difference. It can tell you a different story, because the concept and balance are the most important aspects of perfume. BFM: What are the fundamental differences between male and female scents? FK: The technique is the same, and the rigour is the same, but it's more about the combination of things you put together. It's not about using or not using materials. It's like the colours of fashion: men can wear pink, but you may not see as much pink on men as you see on women. BFM: What trends do you currently see in fragrances? FK: I don't really believe in trends, I dislike them. I think if you try to think of a trend, it means that it is already out in the market. If you want to be ahead of the trend, you better not look at what's happening. You do things on your own. LC
The Ideal Cellar.............185
Well-Stocked Kitchen......184
Absinthe.........................186
Winter Drinks................184
How To Sabre a Champagne bottle.........186
Wine for Beginners........185
Cold Weather Menus
GETTY
If there’s one thing you should remember this winter, it’s to switch out your summer scents for some classic and fresh whiffs of clear and crisp cologne. Be sure to look for longevity and strength in your seasonal fragrance to power
Cold Weather Menus.....183
FOR A DINNER PARTY:
QUICK AND EASY:
TOO CHILL FOR THE GRILL:
Meat wrapped in pastry is an impressive main dish. Beef Wellington might have become cliché years ago but it’s ready for a return, especially as part of a great retro menu that starts with a pre-dinner pitcher of martinis and ends with a chocolate soufflé. Thaw a package of frozen puff pastry. Preheat the oven to 425 F and trim all fat off two beef fillets, about 4 to 5 pounds each. Roast on a rack for 15 minutes, then cool. Finely chop a pound of mushrooms and sauté in a couple of tablespoons of butter. Season with thyme, salt, pepper and a splash of sherry and cook until all of the liquid evaporates. Roll puff pastry into two squares. Spread half the mushroom mixture on each, lay a fillet on top and wrap it up, sealing completely. Brush with melted butter or a beaten egg and bake at 375 F for 20 minutes, then turn up to 450 F for 5 to 10 minutes to brown the pastry.
The best recipes are those that can be adapted to whatever ingredients you have on hand. We love a Southern specialty called Shrimp & Grits: it’s made with a sauce of chopped vegetables and tomatoes, but if you don’t have the time (or patience), use a jar of salsa instead. Add half a cup of grits (coarsely ground white corn meal) to two cups boiling water. Reduce the heat and simmer until thick, about 15 minutes. If you can’t find grits, use polenta, or rice or pasta (see what we mean about adapting?). Meanwhile, sauté a pound of fresh shrimp, add the salsa, heat thoroughly and serve over the grits. No shrimp? Brown some beef strips and add the salsa for a version of the New Orleans dish Grits & Grillades (pronounced “gree-yawds”). Chicken or pork work, too.
Electric indoor grills are a good alternative when the weather’s too nasty for outdoor cooking. But we prefer a simple cast iron grill pan that goes on top of the stove. These work best with meat cooked no more than medium, so they’ll char the surface without burning it. Add a dash of liquid smoke (available at grocery stores) in the marinade to give some charcoal flavouring. Try lamb chops heavy with garlic or a whole trout with smoked salt sprinkled on the inside. Broiling works well with meats that need a little more cooking throughout, such as chicken, because you can start the food on regular oven heat and then finish it close to the top element. Just before you turn on the broiler, put some vegetable kebabs alongside so they’ll cook and develop a nice char on the edges. JM
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183
MANual
MANual
H OW TO
FIND THE RIGHT TV
In the old days, all a man had to think about when picking out his new TV set was which wood finish would go best with the den carpet. These days, things are a touch more complicated: competing technologies and factors like screen size, true black performance and, of course, the vaunted third dimension, can be tough to wrap your head around. Not to worry, we’ve got the lowdown on which sets do what best.
TV TECH GRUDGE MATCH Unless you’ve got a fondness for functional bulb-filled antiques, your TV-buying decision basically boils down to two technologies: LCD vs. plasma. Let’s compare the two:
LCD
vs.
STYLE GUIDE
PLASMA
Size: LCDs have proven more popular in the last few years because they are available in virtually any screen size (they're also much thinner).
Plasmas rarely come smaller than 42 inches due to inherently higher manufacturing costs.
Picture Quality: LCDs—especially if they’re LED-backlit—have the edge in brightness.
Plasmas have much deeper black levels, and, arguably, better colour “pop.”
Performance: LCDs experience slight distortions known as motion blur and juddering.
Plasmas are superior when it comes to processing quick-moving images.
Viewability: With an LCD set, the further away from centre-angle you move, the worse the picture becomes.
Plasmas, on the other hand, offer a more or less uniform viewability regardless of where you’re sitting.
Glare: Most LCDs are fitted with matte screens, so they perform better in a bright room.
Plasmas need to be away from ambient light, limiting where you can put them.
Burn: LCDs don't experience "burn-in"—a predicament where still images can leave behind a blotchy imprint on the screen.
Plasmas are susceptible to "burn-in," although, in most cases, the effect is only temporary.
What does all this mean? Well, for a primary home theatre—we’re talking a dark room dedicated to movie-watching—plasma is king. However, if you’re looking for something more efficient, with a bit more versatility in terms of both size and placement options, LCD is a good bet. Our best advice is that you see both in action before making a decision. MC THE BOOK FOR MEN
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195
198–MANual
3
MANual–199
MUST-HAVE SUITS
A well-tailored suit is essential for any man of style. It signifies power and prestige, and makes you look and feel masculine. To cover all occasions and circumstances, you need to own these three suits: 1 CLASSIC BLUE - This is the staple of your wardrobe. Navy blue suits can be worn as casual or formal, and are appropriate for all times of the year. Pair with chocolate brown or deep black shoes. 2 THREE-PIECE - It’s all about options. This isn’t your dad’s stuffy suit—a threepiece number is ideal for formal settings and, when you take off your jacket, you’ve got a smart semi-casual look to boot. 3 DOUBLE-BREASTED - When you want to leave a big impression, this one’s the way to go. We love the updated fit of the new double—slimmer, less stuffy and undeniably modern.
2
3 SINGLE-BREASTED VS. DOUBLE-BREASTED
1
The double-breasted jacket was a staple of formal menswear in the 1980s—the power shoulders and wide, boxy cuts were as much a symbol of the era as leg warmers and the jheri curl. Now, it’s back in style, with a more fitted, tailored sillouhette. The single-breasted jacket will forever remain a staple in the modern man's wardrobe. It’s simple yet elegant, and can be worn in any number of ways—during the day, it’s a power suit, and at night, replace the pants with comfortable jeans for a cool, casual ensemble look. We prefer a two-button jacket for a slimming look.
198–MANual
3
MANual–199
MUST-HAVE SUITS
A well-tailored suit is essential for any man of style. It signifies power and prestige, and makes you look and feel masculine. To cover all occasions and circumstances, you need to own these three suits: 1 CLASSIC BLUE - This is the staple of your wardrobe. Navy blue suits can be worn as casual or formal, and are appropriate for all times of the year. Pair with chocolate brown or deep black shoes. 2 THREE-PIECE - It’s all about options. This isn’t your dad’s stuffy suit—a threepiece number is ideal for formal settings and, when you take off your jacket, you’ve got a smart semi-casual look to boot. 3 DOUBLE-BREASTED - When you want to leave a big impression, this one’s the way to go. We love the updated fit of the new double—slimmer, less stuffy and undeniably modern.
2
3 SINGLE-BREASTED VS. DOUBLE-BREASTED
1
The double-breasted jacket was a staple of formal menswear in the 1980s—the power shoulders and wide, boxy cuts were as much a symbol of the era as leg warmers and the jheri curl. Now, it’s back in style, with a more fitted, tailored sillouhette. The single-breasted jacket will forever remain a staple in the modern man's wardrobe. It’s simple yet elegant, and can be worn in any number of ways—during the day, it’s a power suit, and at night, replace the pants with comfortable jeans for a cool, casual ensemble look. We prefer a two-button jacket for a slimming look.
200–MANual
MANual–201
3
MUST-HAVE SUIT PATTERNS 1 PINSTRIPE - A thin pinstripe adds a touch of elegance, and it’ll make you look slimmer and taller (never a bad thing). A thicker stripe can be a bit tricky, but if you exude confidence, it can work well. 2 MONOCHROME - No frills, no tricks—there’s strength in subtlety. And monochrome leaves you with plenty of options: add a matching tie for a sleek ensemble, or splashes of colour to make it pop. 3 CHECK - A little more pronounced than monochrome, a little less bold than pinstripes—the check falls into that comfortable middle ground. Dress it up or down, either way you’re guaranteed a refined, smart look.
HOW TO CARE FOR A SUIT So, you’ve bought an expensive new suit. Congratulations—it looks great. Consider it an investment: if you want that suit to last, you need to take good care of it. Here are a few tips: 1 Your hangers should boast enough support in the shoulders to properly hold up your suit. Think of the hanger as a replacement set of shoulders for when you're not wearing your suit. 2 Always use a garment bag when traveling. A canvas garment bag is ideal because it affords proper air circulation. 3 Most importantly, find yourself a good dry cleaner. Ask your tailor for a recommendation and don’t be afraid to shell out a couple extra bucks—a good dry cleaner will help preserve your suit, saving you money in the long run.
LAPEL PRIMER While the fashion industry has turned out a wide variety of lapel styles, there are three standard iterations: peak, notched and shawl.
PEAK
NOTCHED
SHAWL
A bold and old-school lapel, traditionally worn on double-breasted jackets and formal coats, such as the morning coat.
The notched lapel is the standard for most suits, though the “notch” can vary widely in style and size. When in doubt, go with this one—it’s a classic.
The shawl collar employs a continuous curve. It’s decidedly more sophisticated, with a softer air to it, suitable for more formal affairs (think tuxedo).
200–MANual
MANual–201
3
MUST-HAVE SUIT PATTERNS 1 PINSTRIPE - A thin pinstripe adds a touch of elegance, and it’ll make you look slimmer and taller (never a bad thing). A thicker stripe can be a bit tricky, but if you exude confidence, it can work well. 2 MONOCHROME - No frills, no tricks—there’s strength in subtlety. And monochrome leaves you with plenty of options: add a matching tie for a sleek ensemble, or splashes of colour to make it pop. 3 CHECK - A little more pronounced than monochrome, a little less bold than pinstripes—the check falls into that comfortable middle ground. Dress it up or down, either way you’re guaranteed a refined, smart look.
HOW TO CARE FOR A SUIT So, you’ve bought an expensive new suit. Congratulations—it looks great. Consider it an investment: if you want that suit to last, you need to take good care of it. Here are a few tips: 1 Your hangers should boast enough support in the shoulders to properly hold up your suit. Think of the hanger as a replacement set of shoulders for when you're not wearing your suit. 2 Always use a garment bag when traveling. A canvas garment bag is ideal because it affords proper air circulation. 3 Most importantly, find yourself a good dry cleaner. Ask your tailor for a recommendation and don’t be afraid to shell out a couple extra bucks—a good dry cleaner will help preserve your suit, saving you money in the long run.
LAPEL PRIMER While the fashion industry has turned out a wide variety of lapel styles, there are three standard iterations: peak, notched and shawl.
PEAK
NOTCHED
SHAWL
A bold and old-school lapel, traditionally worn on double-breasted jackets and formal coats, such as the morning coat.
The notched lapel is the standard for most suits, though the “notch” can vary widely in style and size. When in doubt, go with this one—it’s a classic.
The shawl collar employs a continuous curve. It’s decidedly more sophisticated, with a softer air to it, suitable for more formal affairs (think tuxedo).
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