S holiday 2013

sstylemagazine.com WINTER 2013

hol i day I s s u e

Party Frocks liisa winkler in this season ’s most glamorous gowns

Hail Louis behind the iconic louis vuitton bags

Courtney Love the artist talks money, style & fame

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Contents

S/STYLE & FASHION

Winter 2013

On the Cover 58

Feel The Love

All boundaries are broken in a raw interview with Courtney Love

64

party Frock

Make a statement in one of this season’s wearable works of art

114

All Hail Louis

Louis Vuitton reveals the rich tale behind its iconic luggage

Bold gowns that will steal the spotlight wherever the night takes you (page 64)

S / STYLE & FASHION | Winter 2013

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www.cartier.com Š2013 Cartier

131 Bloor Street West, Toronto (416) 413-4929 Yorkdale Shopping Centre, Toronto (416) 787-7474 456 Howe Street, Vancouver (604) 683-6878

New Collection

S/STYLE & FASHION

Contents

Winter 2013

46

Off The Market

48

What Men Want

50

Fashion Diary

52

Du Monde

56

Drawn To Couture

Twelve luxurious items you’ll be coveting

The Sharp editors know what to gift the men in your life

Suzanne Rogers takes us to London Fashion Week

Rachel Roy explains how the Italian seaside shapes her designs

The latest haute couture collections will take your breath away

Fashion 77

Lavish Loot

84

The Real After Party

Everyone on your holiday list deserves a luxurious treat

Four women, four gatherings, four distinct tastes

In Every Issue

Up front

28

36

On The Radar

38

For the home

32

128

130

From The Editor

The holidays are a time for traditions and we’re ready to build some at S/Style & Fashion

Scene

Holt Renfrew fêtes Fashion Week in Toronto; Salvatore Ferragamo is California dreaming in Beverly Hills

39

Shopping Guide

Find all of your beloved brands in one place

40

The Last Word

Interior designer India Hicks talks style, life and love

45

Louis Vuitton unlocks pop-up shop; L’Wren Scott’s stylish collaboration

Alexander McQueen designs become rugs; chic coffee-dispensing faucet

Indulge & Be Merry

Limited edition Dom Perignon; Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery

Arts & Culture

Isabella Blow, Grace Kelly and Cartier have something in common

Beauty & Fragrance

Marchesa experiments with cosmetics; meet the $4,000 perfume

S / STYLE & FASHION | Winter 2013

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92

Let’s Face It

98

A Road Less Travelled

Be photo-ready with these skin saviours

Pack your suitcase with resort wear and get out of town

Lifestyle 108

Less Is Simply More

118

The Future Is Now

122

Seaside Escape

126

Explore the simplistic interior design of Bali’s Alila Villas Soori

Rad Hourani presents haute couture’s first unisex collection

Kangaroo Island: A picturesque gem off the Australian coast

Eating For Elegance

Laura Calder indulges at the majestic Le Meurice

Swimsuit ($195) by Michael Kors; necklace ($420) by Rebekah Price

Daring patterns and soft lines tell an enchanting story (page 98)

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S/STYLE & FASHION

Sstylemagazine.ca

Winter 2013

ESCAPE

READ

Ten unusual destinations you’ve probably never considered (but should).

Quotes from our entire conversation with the one and only Courtney Love.

Jet Set

Queen of Rock

WATCH

REWIND

Video footage from our cover shoot with supermodel Liisa Winkler.

In case you missed it, Caitlin Cronenberg shot our film noir fashion spread.

Last Issue

SHOP

Trend Alert

The stylish Holt Renfrew staff share this winter’s must-have items.

S / STYLE & FASHION | Winter 2013

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Courtney Love photo by Getty Images

That’s a Wrap

EAU DE PARFUM

Discover more at mugler.com

Eva Mendes

EDITORIAL Editorial & Creative Director Michael La Fave Editor-in-Chief LISA FELEPCHUK Art Director Evan Kaminsky Associate Art Director Aurora Lynch Market Editor Sahar Nooraei STYLE &FASHION

Editorial Associate JAYNE HEATON Graphic Designer Dan Raftis Junior Graphic Designer Natalie papanikolov Imaging Consultant Neal bridgens Copy Editor LYNDA SPARK Contributing Writers LAURA CALDER, GREG HUDSON, Amber Nasrulla, RYAN PORTER, SUZANNE ROGERS, RACHEL ROY Contributing Photographers GABOR JURINA, LILY & LILAC, Liam Mogan, ROBERT WATSON

Publishing John McGouran President Geoffrey Dawe Publisher 416-571-3703 geoff.dawe@contempomedia.ca Maria Musikka Production Manager maria.musikka@contempomedia.ca

ADVERTISING kyle bodnarchuk Senior Account Manager 416-930-1113 kyle.bodnarchuk@contempomedia.ca Donna Murphy Senior Account Manager 647-519-8919 donna.murphy@contempomedia.ca ryan moleiro Account Manager 416-854-3619 ryan.moleiro@contempomedia.ca vincent noël Québec Regional Manager 514-566-6874 vincent@contempomedia.ca Elena Okulova Sales & Marketing Coordinator 416-591-0093 ext.213 elena.okulova@contempomedia.ca Margarita kopylova Sales & Marketing Assistant margarita.kopylova@contempomedia.ca S/Style & Fashion is published four times per year by Contempo Media Inc. No part of this publication may be copied or reprinted without the written consent of the publisher. The views expressed by the contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, editor or staff. S/Style & Fashion does not take any responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photography.

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volume 2, issue 3, winter 2013

S/STYLE & FASHION

Letter from the Editor

N

Glasses of Bordeaux and Riesling are dotted around the table and complement the red and gold décor.

My mother makes a simple toast that we each echo: “Happy Christmas!”And the feast begins.

Traditions offer stability and structure in our lives. In the winter issue of S/Style & Fashion, five contributors share holiday memories that stem from nostalgic moments. I encourage you to read each one.

We’ve added new features at S/Style & Fashion, too, such as whimsical illustrations of the latest haute couture looks from Paris and seasonal must-haves curated by our Market Editor. I hope these new additions, along with our usual luxury lifestyle news and bold fashion editorials, become content you look forward to. A tradition, delivered to you every issue.

In the meantime, relish in the magic of these winter months and embrace even the most diminutive traditions.Trust me, they’re more meaningful than you think. Just like tourtière.

ot many people are given the opportunity to pen a“Letter from the Editor.”It’s an incredible privilege—especially as the new Editor-in-Chief—but each sentence, right down to my signature, becomes an obsession. For a split second I feel like a 13-year-old again, signing my name on pieces of paper, over and over, practicing for a job I only dreamed about. That lanky teenager is now decades behind me, though I can’t dismiss her too quickly—we do still share one common craving: Christmas tourtière.

There’s more to this French-Canadian pie than ground meat and a flaky crust. It’s the everlasting memory of enjoying this meal on Christmas Eve. Each year on the afternoon of December 24th, as far back as I can remember, my father has prepared this traditional dinner. Slicing, dicing and seasoning, I’m certain he can complete the recipe with a blindfold on.We pick up my grandmother in the late afternoon. Our kitchen is filled with constant chatter, laughter and the occasional fire alarm as my mother and I attempt to bake (a skill that we both lack and I’m convinced is inherited).

By dusk, the aroma of nutmeg and garlic fills our house and the pie is pulled from the oven. My brother opens bottles of wine and we sit for dinner. Christmas crackers, an English tradition, are tugged at each end and open with a bang.We retrieve the brightly coloured paper crowns and place them on our heads.

Lisa Felepchuk Editor-in-Chief

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Photo by Liam Mogan; hair and makeup by Michelle Burca (Judy Inc); dress by Stella McCartney, Holt Renfrew

A Tale of Tradition

S/STYLE & FASHION

Contributors

Our contributors share their most treasured holiday moments.

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1 . L i i s a Win kler Model Canadian model Liisa Winkler wears this season’s most alluring gowns.

“

Every Christmas morning still feels magical.

On Christmas Eve we go for a walk in our jammies to see all of the lights.

2 . G a bo r Jurin a

”

1 3

Fashion Photographer Gabor Jurina skilfully captures the enthralling aura of Liisa Winkler.

“

” ”

One of my best Christmas memories was spent in Hong Kong. I was on a boat and watched the city ablaze with fireworks. It was truly magical.

“

Each year my staff and I collect and wrap books for the children of OrphanAid Africa. It’s a very important tradition to me.

”

4 4. Rya n P o r te r Writer Fashion and culture writer Ryan Porter speaks with Rad Hourani about his unisex haute couture collection.

“

I always play cards with my family on Christmas Eve. Every time I hear Jack Johnson it reminds me of those games.

”

ON THE COVER Gown ($16,000) by Gucci; Diorskin Nude Skin-Glowing Foundation ($54) in Crème; Diorskin Shimmer Star ($45) in Amber Diamond; Dior Addict Extreme Lipstick ($32) in Black Tie; Diorshow Extase Mascara ($35) in Black; J’adore Eau de Parfum ($94) by Dior. Cover photography by Gabor Jurina.

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5 5 . S u z a nne Ro ge rs Fashion Philanthropist Suzanne Rogers shares her elegant escapades during London Fashion Week.

“

As a child we would have a traditional Hungarian celebration. We’d open gifts on Christmas Eve while enjoying my mother’s famous cabbage rolls.

”

Suzanne Rogers photo by Chris Nicholls; Rachel Roy photo by Cliff Watts

3 . Rac h el R oy

Fashion Designer Inspired by a trip to Amalfi, Rachel Roy reveals her favourite spots.

scene

Catwalk Kickoff Toronto

Over 800 of Toronto’s most influential tastemakers celebrated the start of World MasterCard Fashion Week at Holt Renfrew’s annual soirée.

Guests sipped cocktails and nibbled Butter Avenue’s dainty French macarons while mingling about. Jeremy Laing, Stacey McKenzie, and Holts’ own Lisa Tant were in attendance, though The Bumbys, New York’s disguised performance art duo, stole the show. The team had editors, bloggers and the fearless fashion-elite eagerly lining up to get a poetic and furiously typed “fair and honest appraisal” of their outfits.

5

1. Vanessa Cesario 2. Caillianne, Rana, and Samantha Beckerman

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3. Jenna Bitove Naumovich, Kristen Vander Hoeven, Verity Curtis 4. Peter Papapetrou 5. The Bumbys 6. Janet Han, Minna Rhee 7. Moira Wright

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Photos by George Pimentel

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scene

France Fêtes Isabel Paris

A street celebration in the heart of Paris was the perfect spot to showcase the casual feel and bohemian air of the Isabel Marant for H&M collection. “It had to be Paris,” says the designer.

“The city is part of my DNA.” The assortment of clothing and accessories, which includes reproductions of some of Marant’s most iconic pieces, was presented through images, film and on live models. The collection is available worldwide as of November 14th.

1. Alek Wek 2. Olga Kurylenko 3. Isabel Marant 4. January Jones, Freida Pinto 5. Ellen von Unwerth and guest 6. Audrey Tautou

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Photos courtesy of H&M

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scene

California Dreaming B everly H ills

A host of glamorously dressed art enthusiasts, philanthropists and Hollywood’s hottest celebrities gathered in Beverly Hills to commemorate The Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts Inaugural Gala presented

by Salvatore Ferragamo. The evening was filled with fine art, musical performance, fashion and theatre. Guests enjoyed a tented dinner set on an exquisitely decorated table; an art installment in its own right. DJ Michael Smith provided the after-dinner entertainment, while guests sipped espresso.

5

1. Charlize Theron 2. Eva Chow, Michael Chow 3. Amy Adams 4. Gwen Stefani 5. Diane Lane 6. Norah Weinstein, Nicole Richie, Kelly Sawyer

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Photos by Wallis Annenberg

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scene

A Heart of Gold N ew York

Terry Richardson, Bette Midler and Hilary Swank were among the celebrity guests at this year’s God’s Love We Deliver Golden Heart Awards ceremony. Many of the 700 guests participated in the evening’s auctions and raised more than $3 million for the foundation. Anna Wintour and Michael Kors, two of the organization’s co-chairs, proudly presented Hillary Rodham Clinton with this year’s newest award, the Michael Kors Award for Community Service.

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1. Alyssa Miller and Harley Viera Newton 2. Iman, Michael Kors 3. Julianna Margulies, Kyle MacLachlan, Michael Kors 4. Bette Midler, Hilary Swank 5. Hillary Rodham Clinton 6. Olivia Munn

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Photos by Dimitrios Kambouris / Larry Busacca for Michael Kors

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STYLE NEWS

ON THE RADAR

By Lisa Felepchuk

White Ribbons Pulling free the crisp white bow from a Tiffany’s box is unforgettable, but entering Toronto’s new Tiffany & Co. boutique on Bloor Street is a close second.

From out front, floor-to-ceiling windows reveal the two-storey interior of the luxury shop, which sports the Tiffany Blue arc around the door. The inside exudes elegance with grand marble pillars and Art Deco embellishments. All of the classic collections, including the alluring Atlas pieces, remain available.

The new boutique will be participating in this year’s Bloor Street Entertains event, too. On November 27, forget about breakfast at Tiffany’s and have dinner prepared by Momofuku.

Tiffany & Co. is located at 150 Bloor Street West in Toronto. For event information, visit bloorstreetentertains.ca.

Pack Your Bags Picture yourself jet-setting abroad.

Now, back to reality—Louis Vuitton luggage is a part of your visual, isn’t it?

The luxury brand is synonymous with travel and given the history of the Louis

Vuitton empire, their involvement in a pop-up travel shop is fitting.

L’Aventure, a collaborative project with Tyler Brûlé, caters to all avenues of modern globe-trotting and an assortment of exclusive items like colourful luggage tags, trunks and bags are on hand.

“The monogram must have been sent around every airport carousel in the world, and through every cruise terminal and train station. The legendary signature has adventure embedded in its core,” says Brûlé.

L’Aventure also offers packing demonstrations, luggage repairs and custom personalization. The interactive shop reaffirms the brand’s authority in luxury travel.

L’Aventure runs from September 12 to December 31, 2013 at 22 Avenue Montaigne in Paris.

T ime C a ps u l e If there is a designer collaboration to fawn over this holiday season, it’s L’Wren Scott for Banana Republic.

The 50-piece spread includes sultry sequin dresses, faux-fur boleros and slim pants. Blouses and blazers in bold patterns provide welcome pops of colour.

Making the transition from day to night is the crux of Scott’s designs and this capsule collection, a first for her, offers just that. It’s exactly what a woman needs to take her daytime look to afteroffice cocktails and beyond.

L’Wren Scott for Banana Republic is available starting December 5, 2013.

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FOR ME. Onde, new from EBEL. Steel, 18K rose gold & diamonds.

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EBEL.COM

31 Colossus Drive, Woodbridge, Ontario Tel. (905) 264-6669 www.finchcentrejewellers.com

STYLE NEWS

For the home

Limited Edition KitchenAid Stand Mixer ($999) by ColorWare Collection is available online at colorware.com.

M o na r c h M a dne ss

In The Mix A kitchen without a colorful mixer is like a wall without art: dull and uninspiring. Whether you make macarons with ease or want to appear culinarily inclined, a KitchenAid mixer is a countertop staple.

The appliance giant has teamed up with ColorWare to create a limited edition version of the iconic mixer. Bright, candy apple red lacquer is accented with playful black and white polka dots and stripes. The result is more like a stainless steel sculpture than a device used to whip, whisk and blend. With only 25 units available, this kitchen accessory is sure to be a hot commodity over the holidays.

When Sarah Burton joined Alexander McQueen in 2011 she probably didn’t expect her inaugural collection to be transformed into a line of housewares.

Joining the likes of Marni and McQueen himself, Burton’s initial collaboration with The Rug Company plays off the enthralling Monarch motifs from her spring/summer 2011 line.

Hand-knotted from shimmering silk, this piece is made to order and available in two distinct colours: an eye-catching burnt red (pictured here) and a muted taupe. Given the meticulous detail of this masterpiece, it’s no surprise that one rug takes approximately 12 weeks to complete. The mesmerizing layers of butterfly wings make a stunning floor accent, but something this grand is worthy of wall space, too.

Alexander McQueen Monarch Fire rug is made to order. Visit therugcompany. com for more information.

C o nte mp o r a ry C a f f e ine Desperate for additional counter space, but can’t give up that bulky coffee machine? It’s a dilemma of the S / STYLE & FASHION | Winter 2013

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past thanks to the Danish designers at Scanomat. The TopBrewer is a sleek, silver faucet that protrudes from the countertop, but rather than dispensing water, it delivers caffeinated beverages.

All of the machinery has been strategically hidden below the surface so noise and clutter are concealed.

Buttons and dials have vanished, too; the TopBrewer is controlled entirely by your smartphone. Download the app to your iPhone or iPad, tap in your order and enjoy the interactive experience.

You’ll have that espresso in 25 seconds flat, but the machine can also dispense water and other drinks.

Visit scanomat.com for additional information. -LF

STYLE NEWS

Indulge & Be Merry

A no the r Pa r i s H i lt o n P o p G o e s the C o r k

La Défense photo by Getty Images

India n Rocks Pierres de Caractère – Variations is the latest high jewellery collection by Van Cleef & Arpels and is a true celebration of the company’s meticulous artistry.

Vivid colour alliances of extraordinary gemstones are a testament to the maison’s timeless elegance and excellence.

The mammoth Pongal ring (named in honour of the Indian harvest festival) is one of Variations’ most remarkable pieces. A 27.8-carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald takes centre stage while diamonds and cabochon-cut rubies weave about the base. The Indian influence of this ring is a tribute to Van Cleef & Arpels’ Maharaja clients that date back to the 1920s.

Visit vancleefarpels.com for additional information.

The art of a true toast is when flutes filled with Dom Pérignon are clinked together; the soft chimes of glasses ring out in celebration. The elite champagne house has collaborated with artist Jeff Koons for a limited edition offering and the pairing couldn’t be more perfect.

For the 2013 holiday season, Koons has designed the gift boxes and bottles for both the Dom Pérignon Vintage 2004 and Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 2003. As an extension of the Balloon Venus sculpture casing created by Koons, the bottles offer a premium vessel for a grand champagne. Every detail, down to the vibrant foil covering the cork, has been refined. It’s an impeccable present for that person on your list who has everything.

Dom Pérignon Vintage 2004 and Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 2003 limited editions by Jeff Koons are available while quantities last.

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If you’re Europe-bound this season, a stop in Paris is a must. The romantic city is even more enchanting over the winter months. Get lost along the winding, snow-covered cobblestone streets and you’ll think you’ve strolled onto a movie set.

Old Paris is charming, but there’s a hidden gem, La Défense, that is often overlooked. The area is filled with contemporary sculptures and architecture including La Grande Arche, best described as a modern day Arc De Triomphe. Spend a night in a cozy suite at the Hilton La Défense, which is located at the foot of La Grande Arche, and you’ll have front row accommodation to the design masterpiece. Indulge your senses with authentic French fare at Côté Parvis or sip a glass of Bordeaux at Tangerine Bar. Both are located on site at the hotel for your convenience.

Hilton La Défense is located at 2 Place de la Défense CNIT, Paris, France. - LF

STYLE NEWS

The exhibit explores everything from her aristocratic roots and love for the English countryside, to career milestones and her adoration of hats and shoes. It concludes with a legacy section that houses the 2008 spring/ summer collection designed by McQueen and Treacy as a dedication to Blow after her death.

Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! runs from November 20, 2013 to March 2, 2014 at Embankment Galleries, Somerset House in London, UK.

S ay Gr ac e

Jewe ll e r of Kings Carefully crafted jewellery is the core of Cartier. Since 1847 the maison’s craftspeople have marked milestones by draping famous figures in precious stones. This winter the public is invited to experience these moments during a grand exhibition.

Cartier, Style and History will showcase watches and clocks, vintage advertisements, and of course, rare jewels. An intricate crocodile collar commissioned by Mexican actress and Cartier devotee Maria Félix is just one of the standout accessories on display.

Exactly 1,023 yellow diamonds on the first croc and 1,060 emeralds on the second make up the extraordinary item.

The exhibit tells a poetic story of Cartier’s rich history and is the inaugural display at the newly renovated Grand Palais in Paris.

Cartier, Style and History runs from December 4, 2013 to February 16, 2014 at the Grand Palais in Paris, France.

Bl o w n Away An extravagant chapeau was always secured over Isabella Blow’s short dark hair. The late fashion editor was an icon in the industry, continuously pushing boundaries.

Prized in the publishing world, yes, but her inherent aptitude for discovering new talent like Alexander McQueen and Philip Treacy made Blow an invaluable fashion influencer.

Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! is an outstanding retrospective exhibition that celebrates her life.

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Get a glimpse into the life of Grace Kelly in her hometown. The Philadelphia-born beauty lived a fairy-tale life and had a profound impact on fashion. It’s impossible to forget the infamous Hermès “Kelly” bag that gained popularity in the 1950s and continues to be an essential item among style mavens today.

In a 100-piece exhibition, From Philadelphia to Monaco: Grace Kelly, Beyond the Icon, memorable dresses like the one Kelly wore to the 1955 Oscars have been revived from the Palace of Monaco and the Grimaldi Forum archives. In addition to fashion, the exhibit allows a rare look at the former Princess of Monaco’s most prized possessions including film posters, home movies and more.

From Philadelphia to Monaco: Grace Kelly, Beyond the Icon runs from October 28, 2013 to January 26, 2014 at the Michener Art Museum in Doylestown, PA. -LF

Grace Kelly photo courtsey of Archives of the Princely Palace of Monaco, G. Lukomski; Alexander McQueen and Isabella Blow photo by David LaChapelle, Studio Inc

Arts & culture

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COVER: MOVADO CERENA™ CERAMIC/STEEL/DIAMONDS. BLACK $1,795. WHITE $2,495.

STYLE NEWS

Beauty & Fragrance T hr e e Fac e d There’s more to Michael Kors than accessory staples like rose gold watches. The designer has grown his namesake company into a full-fledged lifestyle empire. The brand has released a cosmetics line (fragrances and sun care, too) that exudes the essence of Michael Kors.

Three distinct personas–Sporty, Sexy and Glam–make up the collection, so there’s a colour palette to suit your mood. Each grouping is comprised of two polish shades, a lip lacquer, lipstick and bronzer.

Products can also be purchased separately making it easy to be a bit Sporty with a dash of Sexy and a whole lot of Glam.

Michael Kors cosmetics are available exclusively at Hudson’s Bay in Canada.

L iq u id G o l d

N a il e d I t With frothy tulle and elegant embellishments, a Marchesa gown is the grown-up equivalent to a little girl’s princess dress. This season, the fashion house has partnered with colour specialists at Revlon to transform their glamorous dresses into 3D nail art.

Intricate brocade designs, some with gems and beads, mimic eight runway looks from Marchesa’s fall/ winter 2013 collection. The regal nail appliqués add a touch of couture to the fingertips without requiring hours at the salon. Plus, they eliminate the chance of chipped polish.

Revlon for Marchesa 3D nail appliqués are available for a limited time at drugstores across Canada.

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Aroma expert Roja Dove is the nose who has bottled prestigious brands like Fabergé and Aston Martin. After receiving countless compliments on his own personal scent, Dove decided to release limited quantities named Roja Haute Luxe. At £2,500 for 100ml ($4,100 CAD), it’s no surprise that in addition to bergamot top notes and floral heart notes, there is 24-karat gold leaf in the liquid.

“I made this creation using all the materials I love the most. Having been asked constantly, ‘What do you wear?’ usually followed by ‘Can I buy it?’ I decided to make a small quantity available each year,” says Dove.

The closest that Roja Haute Luxe will get to Canada is New York when Dove visits Bergdorf Goodman.

Otherwise, the fragrance is sold exclusively at Harrods in the UK. Roja Haute Luxe is available at Harrods while quantities last. -LF

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12 Days of Style

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1. Pair of rings ($460) by Maison Martin Margiela 2. Pump ($1,524) by Louis Vuitton 3. Dress ($8,355) by Burberry Prorsum 4. Umbrella ($615) by Alexander McQueen 5. Rosewater Balancing Mist ($42) by Jurlique 6. Stool ($475) by Comme des Garรงons/Rei Kawakubo for Artek, Mjรถlk 7. Necklace ($1,080) by Aerin Erickson Beamon, Holt Renfrew 8. Suitcase (Price upon request) by Vivienne Westwood x Globe Trotter 9. Mobile phone ($6,300) by Vertu, Bandiera Jewellers 10. Shimmering Body Oil ($45) by Moroccanoil 11. Watch bracelet (Price upon request) by Cartier 12. Clutch (Price upon request) by Bvlgari S / STYLE & FASHION | Winter 2013

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Gentleman’s corner

What Men Want The editors of Sharp, Canada’s premium publication for men, share their holiday wish list.

E du c ate d Re a ding “Junot Díaz, Pulitzer Prize-winning author and recent winner of the MacArthur Genius Grant award has compiled a book of short stories. This Is How You Lose Her gets the deluxe treatment with original illustrations by Jaime Hernandez of Love and Rockets. Who would have thought Díaz’s stories could get more powerful?”

This Is How You Lose Her ($42)

Greg Hudson, Managing Editor

We e k e nd G e taway “As hard as it is to let go of that reliable old gym bag, it just doesn’t pair with a nice suit. This weekender is a more refined alternative that won’t leave you looking like an unfortunate juxtaposition.”

Weekend bag ($435) by Ralph Lauren

Coleman Molnar, Assistant Editor

N o te T o S e l f “Sure, your phones, tablets and other iThings are great, but there’s something about a beautifully crafted leather notebook that just speaks to a man’s sense of good taste and sophistication. For the discerning man with much on his mind, it’s the perfect accessory to jot down ideas.”

Notebook ($205) by Smythson

Lance Chung, Online Editor

Winte r Wa rr io r “If you spent any time in boarding school, you will have a soft spot for a proper British duffle coat. This one, from Saint Laurent, hits all the right notes: wooden toggles, a smart fit and that pitch-perfect light camel colour.”

Wool duffle coat ($2,305) by Saint Laurent

Yang-Yi Goh, Fashion Editor

T hink I nk “Men have so few choices when it comes to accessories—a watch, a tie clip, maybe a bracelet if you’re that kind of guy.

With timeless design, fine materials and functionality, this pen from Dunhill checks all of those boxes. Plus it looks great in the breast pocket of a suit.”

Sidecar rollerball pen ($295) by Dunhill

Jeremy Freed, Editor-in-Chief

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A dv e r tis ing F e atu r e

Gift Ideas for the Adventure Addict If there’s someone on your holiday list who craves an open road, Harley-Davidson® has gift ideas they’ll appreciate.

Fair Isle Knit Convertible Gloves ($29.95)

Innovator Waterproof Functional Jacket with Triple Vent System ($444.95)

Double-Breasted Activewear Jacket ($118.95)

Amelia 3-in-1 Leather Jacket ($533.95)

Plaid Flannel Lounge Pants ($46.95)

V is it a n Au tho r iz e d C a na dia n H a rl e y-Dav ids o n ® Re ta il e r o r H arley C an ada. c o m Selection varies by Retail Store. Prices listed are the manufacturer’s suggested retail prices and are subject to change without notice. All taxes are extra. Retailer prices may vary. Harley-Davidson® reserves the right without prior notice to discontinue at any time any of the items herein or change specifications or designs without incurring any obligation to the customer. All items are subject to availability and prior sale by our Retailers. ©2013 H-D or its affiliates. H-D, Harley, Harley-Davidson and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC.

Fashion diary

Suzanne Rogers shares her favourite shows from London Fashion Week.

T

tk

here was typical damp, cool weather during London Fashion Week this September, but the spring/ summer collections on the runway more than made up for the dull grey skies.

My initial show of the week was Emilia Wickstead. It was dazzling, ladylike and airy. I loved the strong, feminine silhouettes with sculptured skirts. Her clothes are elegant, yet so simple to wear and all in beautiful colours. It’s easy to see why she’s one of Kate Middleton’s favourite designers. Each piece is made to measure, which means you can select the style and fabric you desire. I bought a few pieces when Emilia was in Toronto for a private trunk show by Power of Privé earlier this year.

Next was the Mary Katrantzou presentation. I have been wearing her designs since she first arrived on the scene about five years ago, but now, with the help of her Topshop collaboration, she’s become a commercial

Photos by Getty Images

London Calling

sensation. As her profile skyrockets, so do her runway shows. Mary Katrantzou is ready-to-wear, but she’s on the verge of becoming couture.

I adore the structure and colours, the fabric and attention to detail in all of her collections and the latest spread was no exception. The show was full of bold colour and a clear signature look has emerged in her clothes. Mary Katrantzou is always pushing the boundaries when it comes to innovative design.

Backstage at her show I ran into a woman who was wearing the same print that I was. I said to her, “You must be a fan of Mary’s,” to which the lovely woman replied, “Yes, I’m her mother.”

Like all mothers, she was worried that her daughter was working too hard.

Organza and ruffles were prominent at the Erdem show. He has become a huge star. Everything was black and white this season—no colour at all— which is very different for him. The pieces were flowing with intricate appliqués–some in floral. Erdem is taking fashion to a whole different level with strong embroidery and intricate attention to detail.

Finishing my week in London was Peter Pilotto’s show which was simply gorgeous: modern geometric prints were all entirely wearable with high-waisted dresses and A-line skirts. He has really come into his element and it’s evident in his latest collection.

Until next time…✦

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Let us raise a toast for good times and good cheer.

Let us entertain you with an evening of award-winning jazz.

Let us celebrate the most sparkling of evenings with champagne and caviar.

Let us set the bar for New Year’s Eve celebrations to come.

Experience New Year’s Eve like never before at The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto.

Celebrate the evening with a luxurious champagne and caviar reception, five-course dinner and an exclusive performance by award-winning jazz artist, Nicole Henry. For reservations, call 416-585-2500 or visit www.ritzcarlton.com/TorontoNYE.

© 2013, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, LLC

Du Monde

Mediterranean Muse

I

nfatuated with the friendly culture, rugged shoreline and picturesque vistas of Amalfi, Rachel Royâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2014 resort wear line is a reflection of her Mediterranean adventures. Roy explains how her experiences shaped this collection.

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Photo by Cliff Watts

Rachel Roy reveals how the Italian seaside influenced her latest resort collection.

EACH YEAR, ON THE EVE OF WORLD AIDS DAY, TORONTO WITNESSES SOMETHING POWERFUL, SOMETHING UNIQUE. IT SEES THE COMING TOGETHER OF EXQUISITE CULINARY MASTERS, LAVISH RETAILERS, AND ELEGANT FLORISTS WHO JOIN TOGETHER FOR A VITAL CAUSE. IT EXPERIENCES CANFAR’S BLOOR STREET ENTERTAINS.

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For up to date information, visit www.BloorStreetEntertains.ca or call 416.361.6281

Du Monde

My resort collection is a synthesis of my love for Amalfi’s natural and cultural beauty. I especially adore the detail on the tiles found throughout the town. The 9th-century Amalfi Cathedral in Piazza del Duomo, for example, is in the city centre, adorned with the most striking mosaics of majolica tiles. Enclosed by enchanting Arab-Norman-inspired arches, the entire structure is otherworldly. I remember seeing the Romanesque bell tower from the coastline—it took my breath away.

It was important for me to translate the magnificent tiled designs into wearable art and infuse those patterns with the ocean’s rich sapphire blue and emerald colours. I absolutely adore the picturesque fishing village of Nerano.

The beach town, wedged between Sorrento and the Amalfi coast exudes such old-world charm and is surrounded by high mountains and ancient Roman villas.

The Bay of Ieranto, when translated

to English means “sacred,” is a small pebble beach opposite the Faraglioni of Capri. I love lands that are not only visually beautiful, but also hold a rich history.

Ieranto is said to be the legendary refuge of Ulysses’ Sirens. The bay has such an enchanting and mystical spirit.

Vie w To Thrill The town of Positano is breathtaking.

Via both helicopter and boat I explored the magnificent Mediterranean landscape. The architectural excellence, crystal-clear water and remarkable topography is beyond beautiful. One of the most striking views I have ever laid eyes on was from my friend’s helicopter; I watched as the sun set behind one of the many majestic islands. It was a heavenly experience that I will never forget.

Re ta il The ra py In Ravello, which is a town inland, there is a quaint ceramic shop called Ravello Arte. The artisans of the shop are extremely gifted, creating the most exquisite hand-painted

Photos by Getty Images

D e s i gn In spi ration

ceramics. I found such delight in hunting through decorated designs— the artists truly capture the life and colours of Ravello in their ceramics. I bought many pieces as inspiration for my resort collection as well as gifts for friends. My only regret is that I didn’t bring back even more treasures from the wondrous Ravello Arte.

L u xury Lod g i n g Santa Caterina Hotel is beyond words.

A pure dreamer designed this magnificent property. It is a visual wonder perched on the edge of Amalfi. I ate lunch at the hotel restaurant and it was magical. It opens up onto a terrace with archways covered in vibrant green vines that overlook the ocean.

At the restaurant I ate delicious Margherita pizza—the waiter called it a “Personal Love Pie!” The bread was both light and crispy, while the sliced cherry tomatoes were fresh and sweet.

In addition to the spectacular views and delectable dining, the hotel is perfectly situated for travelling along the

coast. Ravello, Capri and Positano are all nearby.

Supr e me Cu is ine Ristorante da Pappone and Tre Gradini bar both sit on Nerano beach in Massa Lubrense, Napoli.

Pappone serves up the most fresh and decadent seafood, while Tre Gradini offers heavenly cocktails and snacks. I enjoyed my meals next to the sea while listening to the sound of waves crash against the Nerano shore. “Tre Gradini,” the name of the bar, actually means “three steps” and you are precisely three steps away from the water while enjoying a drink here. Absolute bliss.

In addition to Pappone and Tre Gradini, if you venture to Ieranto, visit Glocal bar for a refreshing ice cream cone. Not only is the ice cream delicious, the service is incredibly friendly. They are exceptionally knowledgeable about Ieranto and its history. I listened to such wondrous tales as I enjoyed my frozen treat. ✦

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couture

Drawn to Couture The intricacies of haute couture never cease to amaze and the latest collections were no exception. Some of the designers left the team at S/Style & Fashion speechless… almost.

Illustrations by António Soares

Arm a ni Pri vé ( l e f t ) “I love the effortless flow of this collection. The tailoring suggests a bit of nostalgia on Mr. Armani’s part. Feather neckpieces and oversized jewellery elevated the nude, pale silhouettes. This is a collection for the affluent woman in charge, despite the delicate use of textiles.”

Sahar Nooraei, Market Editor

C hr i s t i a n Dior ( m i d d l e ) “Raf Simons is on a mission to refine couture. His latest collection is far from the circus-like pieces we often associate with this level of fashion. Accessories were abundant in nearly every look. I loved how the waists were accentuated with tailored peplum tops and thick belts.”

Lisa Felepchuk, Editor-in-Chief

G i a m batti sta Valli ( r i g h t ) “Giambattista Valli’s dramatically sculpted curves are a stunning celebration of the female form. The three-dimensional florettes look as though they’re growing with the gowns. The collection is regal with intense reds and golds, but is balanced with delicate details. I have goosebumps!”

Jayne Heaton, Editorial Associate

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v o L Fearless It’s a chaotic, messy place inside Courtney Love’s head. But that’s what fuels her creativity. The multi-talented artist continues to experiment with new endeavours, including an eccentric clothing line.

By Greg Hudson

Photography by

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O

Often, when you are to speak with a Famous Person, you have all the autonomy of a child at a birthday party: the time is set in advance, the activity and content is predetermined, and the whole affair is vigilantly supervised to avoid hurt feelings, tantrums and controversy. Admittedly, this metaphor is imperfect (and not a little condescending), but it will do as exposition. Especially since it’s about to be shattered anyway.

because this is courtney love’s party, and courtney love does what she wants to.

I might as well not be here at all. My questions are more like sentences that prompt corresponding revelations as if they are sign posts, markers to measure conversational drift. Talking to Courtney Love is like taking in a one-woman show; call it the Love Monologues. It’s a funny, gritty, maddening production with the halffinished coherence of a bus stop prophet lecturing on conspiracy.

For example: almost immediately, she talks about Kurt Cobain. She’s a rock star, after all, so she knows the power of playing the hits. Was she asked about Cobain? She was not. She was asked about being fearless, a characterization she did not immediately agree with. But, she concedes, she is fearless when it comes to romance and money, and the intersection between the two. After briefly discussing how she wouldn’t let her new boyfriend buy her a $45,000 purse from Bergdorf’s, she brings up the money left behind by Cobain, and all that it represents.

“I’ve always made my own money,” she says, which she immediately realizes isn’t quite true. “I inherited some money, but that didn’t go so well, and my daughter looks at her trust fund as a loan from a person she doesn’t know. I look at the Nirvana money–unfortunately looked at the Nirvana money, not as a legacy for my grandchildren, but as… I didn’t see it at all.”

She continues: “I never knew that when Kurt died he had $54 million in one bank account and $21 million in another. Nor did he, and I talked to Pat Smear about this recently. You know, was it inevitable that he was going to kill himself anyway? Or if he had known that he didn’t have to go on Lollapalooza that year with those guys that he was breaking up with, would he have killed himself?”

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“

I had this dream about collecting the other night… two nights ago. I was collecting chalk, kind of porcelain Kate Mosses. I was collecting Kate Mosses.

It is likely impossible to know whether this is true, but her saying it does indeed seem to speak to her fearlessness. Or, at least, raises the question as to where exactly the line between fearlessness and inappropriateness lies. Courtney Love resides in that hazy liminal space between the two. In everything she does, she’s either audacious or too much.

But those aren’t the only lines she ignores. Her career is a Venn diagram of fashion, music and acting. (She once earned Oscar buzz for The People vs. Larry Flynt. Remember that?) It’s a testament to her talent, her singular, distracted artistic vision that she can do so many things, even if, taken one by one, they each have a messy quality.

“I had this dream about collecting the other night,” she says, “two nights ago. I was collecting chalk, kind of porcelain Kate Mosses. I was collecting Kate Mosses.”

Right now, her focus—such as it is—is on her fashion line. (Well, when she’s not busy penning her memoir that will come out in time for the holidays, or getting back to her “acting weight,” instead of her “rock star weight.”)

As improbable as it might seem for people who can’t let go of the troubled Courtney of the ‘90s, fashion has been an important part of her identity since childhood. She used to help dress stars on movie sets before she learned to love the glamour of the red carpet herself.

Her line is called Never The Bride and the grunge-infused designs are made from vintage finds. She started it to defy a stylist who wouldn’t dress her, and to stick it to fashion labels that wouldn’t let her into their inner swag circles. But, there’s obviously more. She’s a curator, a collector. Her Pinterest account is a revelation and her playlists are epic. In that way, she’s almost millennial. And that varied aesthetic is definitely a part of Never The Bride.

“These clothes are like catnip if you’re under 25,” she says, “but at my age, I can’t really wear my own clothes. I have a lot of text on mine.... It’s very individual. It’s like a madwoman’s clothes, but when you get a 25-year-old model near one, they can sniff out style and they go nuts.”

The problem though, has been getting licensing and distribution. Never The Bride is sold online, but it’s been having trouble breaking through in a big way, despite offers of help from Jessica Simpson’s father. Because of course she has a story about Jessica Simpon’s father.

“It’s just going to take a few years. I was in the Chateau the other night, and Papa Simpson comes up to me and was like, ‘You let me know if you ever need advice, because I understand fashion,’ and I looked at him, and this is Jessica’s dad, and I mean, she’s worth a vast amount of money, but it’s from selling clothes at Walgreens. I’d rather make a lot less, and make prettier clothes, because it wouldn’t work: Courtney Love, Never The Bride at Walgreens! It’s not going to work.”

Courtney Love has a story about everyone, but maybe that’s an example of her fearlessness, too. She’ll talk about anyone and everyone. And the stories might even be true, because she’s met pretty much everyone and anyone. But, all that talk can be confounding and distracting. So much that it’s hard know how savvy she is.

Talking to her, while she’s sweating in her New York home, listening to her discuss her finances, The Shady Investments of Edward Norton, photographers who wouldn’t pay her, tattoos, Etsy, playlists, Taylor Swift, and money money money, it’s easy to convince yourself that she was a passive character in her fame—it happened to her, and she’s held on. But, that’s dismissive and, ultimately, wrong. She knows what she’s doing, even if she doesn’t know what she’s doing right now. ✦

”

Ornate details and vintage fabrics are the foundation of Never The Bride.

Visit sstylemagazine.ca to read more of our interview with Courtney Love.

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HALIFA X

MONTRE AL

OT TAWA

QUEBEC

TORONTO

EDMONTON

CALGARY

VANCOUVER

BCBG.CA

L

et your hair down in an alluring gown that will take you from this season’s holiday soirées to a New Year’s Eve fête and beyond. With this kind of sparkle and shine, you’ll steal the spotlight wherever the night takes you.

Photography by

Gabor Jurina Model

Liisa winkler

(Mode Elle Models, Belleville)

Styling by

Corey Ng (P1M)

Watch behind the scenes footage from this shoot at sstylemagazine.com.

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Gown ($10,995) by Emilio Pucci, Holt Renfrew; watch ($17,350) by Rolex; snake bracelet ($1,675) by John Hardy, Holt Renfrew; chain bracelet ($195) by Rita Tesolin.

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Gown ($3,895) by Carmen Marc Valvo, Holt Renfrew; earrings ($355) by Eddie Borgo, Holt Renfrew; cuff ($680) by Fendi, Holt Renfrew.

LEFT Gown ($7,160) by Alexander McQueen, Holt Renfrew; ring ($7,260) by Pomellato, Bandiera Jewellers.

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Gown ($5,450) by Jason Wu, The Room; ring ($370) by Louis Vuitton; cuff ($780) by CĂŠline, Holt Renfrew; shoes ($645)

by Gucci.

RIGHT Gown ($5,140) by Stella McCartney, Holt Renfrew; earrings ($255) by Marni, Holt Renfrew; cuff ($275) by Alexis Bittar, Holt Renfrew.

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Gown ($5,195) by Alexander McQueen, Holt Renfrew; earrings ($340) by Marni, Holt Renfrew; watch ($2,600) by Hermès.

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Gown ($1,885) by Maison Martin Margiela, The Room; shoes ($995) by Giuseppe Zanotti, Browns Shoes; bracelet ($1,255)

by John Hardy, Holt Renfrew; watch ($45,500) by A. Lange & Söhne, Solaris Jewellers.

RIGHT Gown ($5,785) by Lanvin, Holt Renfrew; cuff ($690) by Céline, Holt Renfrew; earrings ($245) by Rita Tesolin; Five-finger ring ($300) by Eddie Borgo, Holt Renfrew.

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Gown ($15,000) by Michael Kors; necklace ($800) by Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection; ring ($75) by Michael Kors, Holt Renfrew.

LEFT Dress ($9,525) and boots ($3,600) by Chanel; bangle ($12,800) by Classic Creations; necklace (Price upon request) by Rita Tesolin.

Makeup by Simone Otis (P1M); Hair by Cody Alain (P1M).

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Photography by

Robert watson

La

t o o L h

’T

s i v

is the season for giving—yes, everyone on your holiday list deserves a luxurious treat. From timepieces to textured accessories, these gifts boast an array of elegance.

DOUBLE TROUBLE Left to right: crocodile strap watch ($4,695) by Gucci, L’Oro Jewellery; stainless steel watch ($1,395) by Movado; calf-hair coat ($4,195) by Burberry Prorsum, Holt Renfrew.

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MODERN DAY CLASSIC Stainless steel watch ($10,600) by Bvlgari, Bandiera Jewellers; crushed velvet and silk scarf ($570) by Valentino, Holt Renfrew; leather iPad case ($375) by Alexander Wang, Holt Renfrew.

DOWNTOWN DIVA (right) Alligator strap watch ($5,400) by Ebel, Classic Creations; fox fur scarf ($1,200) and calfskin portfolio ($795) by Marlowe.

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PRIM & PROPER Satin strap watch ($16,700) by Omega; snakeskin handbag ($670)

by Longchamp, Holt Renfrew; wool and silk hat ($295) by Lilliput Hats, Holt Renfrew.

ALWAYS IN THE SPOTLIGHT (left) Ceramic and stainless steel watch ($1,639) by Rado, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oro Jewellery; fox fur handbag ($3,200) by Salvatore Ferragamo, Holt Renfrew; gold studded dress ($3,095) by Burberry Prorsum, Holt Renfrew.

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SHE’S SO CHIC Sapphire bezel watch ($45,500) by Chanel, Bandiera Jewellers; mink fur hat ($3,675) by Chanel; wool throw ($1,375) by Hermès.

SOCIAL GRACES (right) Leather strap watch ($12,950) by Chopard, L’Oro Jewellery; leather gloves ($265) by Marlowe; porcelain tray ($565) by Hermès.

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The

Real

Photography by

Li am Mog an

r e t f AParty

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Clockwise from s bottom left: Shoe ($1,095) by Saint ew; Laurent, Holt Renfr el; an Ch by 5) ,17 bag ($5 and eyeshadow ($78) RIN; lipstick ($34) by AE Marc dress ($1,695) by ew; Jacobs, Holt Renfr jacket ($4,295) by nfrew; Altuzarra, Holt Re Gc; watch ($1,395) by cci, Gu by 0) ,45 ($9 ring rs; ring Bandiera Jewelle llato, ($14,630) by Pome rs; ring Bandiera Jewelle e, Holt ($78) by Kate Spad non rig PĂŠ m Do ; Renfrew ited Vintage 2004 Lim ons Edition by Jeff Ko st); ue req on up ice (Pr Prada, keychain ($155) by braceHolt Renfrew; cuff Max let ($82) by BCBG 0) and Azria; gloves ($1,15 anel; flask ($3,800) by Ch Vertu, phone ($29,900) by Bandiera Jewellers.

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Clockwise from Bottom left: Pen ($235) by Waterma n, Laywine’s; notebook ($145) by L’Agenda Moderne, Laywine’s ; coat ($4,250) by Cé line, Holt Renfrew; bracel et ($1,470) by Mikimoto , Bandiera Jewellers; ring ($12,900) by Bvlgar i, Bandiera Jewellers; Modern Muse fragra nce ($115) by Estée Lau der; skirt ($264) by BCBG Max Azria; robe ($712) and brassiere ($323) by I.D. Sarrieri; shoes ($645) and purse ($945) by BO SS; necklace ($31,900) by Mikimoto, Bandiera Jewellers; gloves ($1 75)

by Holt Renfrew Yor kdale; necklace ($13,360) by Mikimoto, Bandiera Jewellers; blush ($4 8) and mascara ($36) by Ch anel.

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Clockwise from Bottom left: Clu tch ($1,385) by Lanvin, Holt Renfrew; bracelet ($78) by Kate Spade, Holt Re nfrew; jacket ($1,695) by Dri es Van Noten, Holt Re nfrew; shoes ($790) by Mi u Miu, Holt Renfrew ; dress ($2,295) by Dries Van Noten, Holt Renfrew ; ring ($11,385) by Pomella to, Bandiera Jewellers; Very Irresistible fragrance ($105) by Givenchy; nail polish ($12) by O.P.I.; lipgloss ($22) by Smash box; ring ($9,405) by Pom ellato, Bandiera Jewellers; phone ($5,200) by Vertu, Ba ndiera Jewellers; necklace ($229)

by BCBG Max Azria.

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Clockwise from tch bottom left: Clu Vivier, ($1,675) by Roger shadow Holt Renfrew; eye and 5) ($3 sh blu ($24), abeth lipstick ($30) by Eliz 95) by Arden; fur stole ($4 Holt Charlotte Simons, et Renfrew; cuff bracel x Azria; ($79) by BCBG Ma I.D. brassiere ($298) by 5) by Sarrieri; coat ($2,69 lt Ho m, rsu Pro rry Burbe 65) by Renfrew; shoes ($8 ; car Fendi, Holt Renfrew Bentley keys for the 2014 Flying Spur. oraei; Styling by Sahar No nne Prop styling by Joa chelle Jin; Makeup by Mi ).

Inc dy (Ju rca Bu Special thanks to the Beverley Hotel.

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MATTE POWDER

On the runway at Lanvin, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler Double Wear Powder ($44) by Estée Lauder (Sandalwood, Tawny, Pebble, Soft Tan, Ivory Nude, Ecru).

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Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Face It Dry, dull dermis is never in style. Be photo-ready with these skin saviours.

BASE COAT

Photography by

Robert watson Rodney Smith

Smooth away imperfections to create a flawless canvas.

Styling by

Mister Smooth ($42) by Givenchy

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RAZOR SHARP

FIVE IN ONE

Halo Highlighting Wand ($37)

by Smashbox

CC Cream ($58) by Chanel

Achieve model-worthy cheekbones with a subtle shimmer.

Reap the benefits of a multitasking CC cream that will last day and night.

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RADIATE AWAY

WEEKLY WEAPON

Diorskin Forever ($48) by Christian Dior

Resilience Lift Extreme Ultra Firming Mask ($48) by EstĂŠe Lauder

Perfect your complexion with a sleek and buildable liquid foundation.

Treat tired, thirsty skin to a rich face mask.

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Top ($2,725) and pants ($2,200) by Chanel; watch ($11,700) by Chanel, Bandiera Jewellers; bracelet ($235) by Michael Kors; sunglasses ($377) by Oliver Goldsmith, Spectacle.

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Photography by

Lily & Lilac Styling by

Nadia Pizzimenti (Judy Inc)

The

Travelled Road Less

W

ith daring patterns, soft lines and some seriously wide-legged slacks, the 2014 resort wear collections will dazzle anywhere the sun shines.

Pack your arsenal of vacation apparel and get out of town.

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Vest ($1,495) and pants ($875) by Viktor & Rolf; headscarf ($310) by Alexander McQueen, Holt Renfrew; bangles ($300 per pair) by Hermès; carry-on ($1,985) and duffle bag ($1,325) by Serapian, Betty Hemmings.

RIGHT Jacket ($2,100) and blouse ($895) by Gucci; hat ($435) by Eugenia Kim, Holt Renfrew; scarf ($295) by Kenzo, Holt Renfrew; necklace ($1,250) by Victoria Sorkin; ring ($1,300) by Bvlgari, Bandiera Jewellers; watch ($2,500) by Hermès, Bandiera Jewellers.

Range Rover Sport With seating for seven, the Range Rover Sport ($73,990) is perfect for city driving or a rugged adventure.

Jacket ($2,235), shorts ($1,130) and shoes ($835) by Viktor & Rolf; blouse ($1,675) by Chanel; headscarf ($125) by Holt Renfrew; earrings ($180) by Victoria Sorkin; necklace ($775) by Givenchy, Holt Renfrew; bracelet ($340) by Swarovski.

RIGHT Cardigan ($4,375), swimsuit ($950) and necklace ($3,750) by Chanel; earrings ($2,550) by Bvlgari, Bandiera Jewellers; rings ($1,885) by John Hardy, Holt Renfrew; cuff ($450) by Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection; luggage left to right ($2,445; $1,955; $975) by Globe-Trotter, Betty Hemmings.

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Jacket ($2,450) and dress ($2,350) by Prabal Gurung; earrings ($5,355) by Pomellato, Bandiera Jewellers; sunglasses ($420) Oliver Peoples, Holt Renfrew; ring ($2,300) by Damiani, Bandiera Jewellers; shoes ($895) by Michael Kors.

LEFT Dress ($3,860) by Erdem; sunglasses ($365) by Christian Dior, Holt Renfrew; gloves ($98) by Holt Renfrew, Holt Renfrew Yorkdale; watch ($10,400)

by Hermès, Bandiera Jewellers; earrings ($320)

by Eddie Borgo, Holt Renfrew; ring ($160) by Rebekah Price.

Audi SQ5 Luxurious leather interior meets newfound athletic edge: The Q5 ($59,600) has been brought upmarket with the “S” addition.

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Scarf ($565) by Kenzo, Holt Renfrew; skirt ($1,755) and belt (Price upon request) by Altuzarra; bag ($5,000) by Mulberry; earrings ($300) by Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection; bracelet ($545) by Oscar de la Renta, Holt Renfrew; watch ($1,995) by Gc. RIGHT Coat ($2,590) and sweater ($825) by MaxMara; jumpsuit ($576) by BCBG Max Azria; scarf ($95)

by Tilo; bag ($8,500) by Mulberry; ring ($3,190)

by Pomellato, Bandiera Jewellers; cuff ($375)

by Michael Kors; watch ($6,500) by Ebel, Classic Creations.

Model: Ishie (Elmer Olsen); Styling: Nadia Pizzimenti (Judy Inc); Hair: Jini Jung for Jini Jung Hair Artisans; Makeup: Adi Lando for Sephora using Sephora Collection products.

BMW X5 Every designer needs a signature; Balmain and glitzy beading or Marchesa and frothy tulle.

For BMW, their signature is the twin-grille that has adorned the front of every model since the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;30s. The 2014 BMW X5 xDrive50i ($76,500) embodies the classic design without adding a hint of aggression.

more Less is Simply

By Jayne Heaton

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T

he Alila Villas Soori resort on Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southwestern coast defies the typical standards of luxury.

Overt decadence and wild embellishment are not what you will find here. Instead, guests will discover a simple kind of lavishness: an edited assembly of comforts with a discerning attention to detail. In Bali there is no need for over-zealous decorationâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;the mountainous backdrop, black-sand beaches and startlingly blue oceanic stage roar loudly enough on their own.

T

The estate, one of renowned architect Soo K. Chan’s most distinguished accomplishments, takes the vacation experience to new heights. This version of luxe is derived from a design that emphasizes not excess, but instead, a near-spiritual connection with nature, and a respect for the earth and its inhabitants. It’s an aesthetic that calms the mind and relaxes the soul.

Upon arrival at the resort, guests enter a cobblestone courtyard, dotted with manicured greenery and a shimmering pool. The court leads to a white terrazzo-floored reception pavilion, that’s so dreamy it looks as though it was built for the Gods. Darkly stained wooden pillars support a canopy of timber screens that evoke a sense of shelter, though the pavilion is still very much outdoors. This is the property’s first mark of the careful blending of indoor and outdoor spaces, as well as the contemporary Asian influence exhibited throughout the space.

Inside the pavilion, Asian lanterns glow and flickering candles atop metal pillars add warm light while the ocean breeze cools the air. Modern Italian sofas line the path to the foot of a beautiful infinity pool that pours endlessly, or so it seems, into the sparkling Indian Ocean—a view that has waited until this precise moment to show itself.

Chan—the founder and principle architect of Singapore-based SCDA Architects— describes this arrival process as a “choreography” explaining that each new element reveals itself in careful succession, one experience unraveling at a time.

Chan also happens to own the resort, which allowed for total freedom in its concept and design. “As an architect, I wanted the opportunity to be able to do a resort holistically,” he says. From interior to landscape and furniture to décor, Chan envisioned each element flowing succinctly together.

His ability to elevate a space into an authentic experience is what sets the Alila Villas Soori apart. The goal was to build something that was not only in accordance with EarthCheck’s environmental standards, but that would also “capture the essence of the locale” in an authentic way. Chan wanted to create a resort that would “go beyond just architectural or landscape sustainability,” and a third component was just as important to him. “Cultural sustainability preserves the way people in the village live and work,” says Chan. To accomplish this, careful integration with the land and culture was paramount. The result? “A symbiosis with the village.”

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“

We focused on capturing what a Balinese space is in a contemporary way.

”

“The most important factors,” says Chan, “were the religious aspects, and also the rice-farming aspects.” Both play an important role for the Balinese people, and careful consideration was taken before building could commence. “We had to consult and work together with the village in terms of first getting access to the site because it passes through quite a few paddy fields,” he says.

When designing the layout, care was taken to avoid interfering with irrigation pathways from surrounding paddy fields.

The solution was to incorporate working rice paddies into the resort’s core. Now, the fields come within a mere arm’s length of the villas. This problem-solving strategy, Chan muses, actually gives the resort more authenticity.

The resort’s proposed location would also have restricted access to one of the island’s important religious temples, so a processional route through the resort was charted.

The majority of the island’s residents practice Balinese Hinduism, which greatly influences daily life of the locals. “We built nine temples within the hotel itself, as advised by the religious head of the village,” says Chan. “He walked around with us, reacted to the site, and placed temples in different corners. Sort of as a guardian of the hotel.” The layout of the entire complex was planned around the positioning of these temples.

Above each doorway there also hangs a talisman that is said to keep out spirits. “This is so important,” says Chan, “because almost all of our staff come from local villages; almost 80 per cent. So if it is their belief, and we don’t integrate it into the hotel, our staff might feel that it’s not a safe place to work. You have to be very in tune with the culture.”

Being in tune with the culture was step one, but creating a harmony between the retreat and its incredibly beautiful surrounding landscape was another key concept behind the resort’s design. “We focused on capturing what a Balinese space is in a contemporary way,” explains Chan, describing a traditional Balinese space as a system of different compounds in the form of pavilions. A family home usually includes a living pavilion, a sleeping pavilion and an eating pavilion, each one physically detached from the others.

For the Alila Villas Soori, this translates into personal villas laid out as a series of three-walled courtyards made up of Paras Kelating, a locally sourced grey-black volcanic rock.

The stone comprises most of the resort’s exterior walls,

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and helps it blend seamlessly into the dark sand beach. The missing fourth wall leaves the scenic views unobstructed.

Each villa’s entrance has a set of Balinese-proportioned double doors that open inward to a pristine entrance hallway that just happens to be outdoors. Once you enter your villa, as Chan describes it, “you’re still outside.”

Additional doorways lead guests into beautifully furnished bedrooms that offer a cozy retreat, complete with upscale comforts. Natural fabric area rugs add texture to smooth wood floors, while crisp silk linens adorn sprawling Java beds designed especially for the resort. Decoration is kept to a minimum with a focus on texture rather than adornment. The use of steel was avoided entirely due to the salty ocean spray mere steps away.

Elegant furniture in deeply shaded wood enhances the space, and was designed specifically for the resort by Chan himself.

Though the plans were commissioned through Italian furniture company Poliform, the pieces were built in Bali using a local furniture company (belonging to Chan’s wife who employs local craftspeople) which minimized long-haul transportation.

The hotel does, however, import a few things. The sofas, for example, are brought in from Milan. The reason for this, Chan says, is that “there is no concept of sofas in Balinese houses. You sit on platforms, so of course we made it a bit more contemporary.” Chan also lists a number of other technologies that were used at the resort, like satellite TVs, quick Internet, clean water and green practices for harvesting rainwater (for the plants).

“We didn’t let the technology overwhelm the feeling of the space,” says Chan. This explains why most of the screens and wires have been hidden out of sight. The result is a peaceful retreat that lets visitors escape from buzzing electronic clutter so they can feel rejuvenated.

Chan describes his resort as being a tranquil place where guests can really feel the spirituality of the site. Visitors enter the Alila Villas Soori in hopes of escaping their busy lives, and they return home with a touch of inner peace, a connectedness with the environment and perhaps even a plan to simplify their usual surroundings. ✦

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Photo by Bert Stern/Condé Nast Archive/Corbis, with kind permission of Twiggy Lawsona

dC on fid

ith a “Speedy” bag in hand, one suddenly stands a little taller and holds their head up a little higher. There’s something romantic about the rich past of Louis Vuitton that inexplicably radiates sureness. In the House’s first hardcover dedicated to handbags and trunks, Louis Vuitton City Bags: A Natural History pays homage to the iconic accessories.

d

e c n e

T

The launch of the first Louis Vuitton city bag coincided with the accessory’s attribution as an indispensable item at the turn of the 20th century. The phenomenon of women’s irresistible attachment to this object later prompted the writer Pierre Daninos to say: “Crazy— that’s what a woman thinks she’ll become if she can’t find her bag.”1 Crowning the flourishing activity of the trunk-maker founded in 1854, the introduction of Louis Vuitton leather goods increased the House’s ability to translate the evolution of society and its mores into a product at the pinnacle of technological progress.

In 1880, Georges Vuitton founded a leather goods department in Asnières-sur-Seine, in an annex of one of his ateliers. The ladies’ handbag appeared in the Louis Vuitton product catalogue in 1892, the oldest catalogue referenced in the House’s archives. Between these two dates, the House oriented its production towards baggage, foreshadowing an entire line of iconic bags for the brand. Following in his father’s footsteps, the founder’s son, George Vuitton, threw himself into the task of designing a new accessory for the female wardrobe that was destined for a promising future: the handbag. From that moment on, the House would engage in an unrelenting quest to bring this object of desire in line with the spirit of the times. Faithful to the principle of coherence that makes its products unique, the brand would inscribe these city bags into a vast genealogy of forms and functions, allowing contemporary models to enter into an intimate and inspiring dialogue with the creations of the past.

Conditions were favorable for the development of this line of leather goods: travel was modernizing, and evolutions were occurring in dress forms and shopping practices. Louis Vuitton responded to the modernization of transport by train, automobile and ocean liner with inventions that married modularity, portability and practicality. Leather baggage with handles, which could be kept close at hand by the traveler, complemented the canvas covered wooden steamer trunks. A Gladstone Bag from 1885, preserved in the House’s heritage collections, represents a prelude to this production of portable luggage.2 Like the Sac de nuit presented in the 1892 catalogue, the Gladstone Bag illustrates the first steps towards research into semi-supple leather baggage. More modular still, the Steamer Bag launched around 1900 could be folded and stored in a trunk.

This flexibility made it the perfect occasional bag for storing linens or souvenirs in a transatlantic ship’s cabin. For automobile travel, the toiletry kits sold as of 1890, the fitted bags, the Sac de nuit, and even the canvas linens Sac à linge (laundry bag), all present in the 1892 catalogue, were natural complements to the trunk, which would remain in the back of the car. This luggage, however, still required the services of a porter, as it was relatively heavy. At the same time, another type of smaller, lighter container became necessary. When traveling by train, passengers were confined to compartments that made no accommodations for comfort and conveniences. The comtesse Jean de Pange recalls her childhood memories of the Belle Époque: “Although the journey from Paris to Dieppe was only four hours, we set ourselves up as if we were going to China. We brought several baskets of provisions and a whole battery of so-called ‘travel’ utensils.”3 The duchesse de Broglie, her mother, “carried a small leather bag with a shoulder strap for the occasion, filled with keys, money and papers.”4 This detail, which reveals a new kind of usage, bears witness to the appearance of the ladies’ handbag as an indispensable accessory in womenswear. Around 1900, the new fashion for “fitted,” hip-hugging skirts made it impossible to incorporate inside pockets, which had previously been buried within the underskirts, allowing the wearer to carry small objects. The ladies’ bag was

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a substitute for these primitive cloth bags suspended from the waist under the petticoats. The magazine Femina attests to the handbag’s “entrance into habitual usage” in 1901.5 As of 1892, Louis Vuitton proved its ability to respond to this fashion evolution by including the “L.V.’s Ladies’ Hand Bag” in its catalogue. The description revealed another new trend: shopping, not yet an urban sport, but already a desirable occupation. Under this pretext, women escaped from the family home and succumbed to the joy of window shopping and freely surveying the offerings at department stores.

The architect Rem Koolhaas even sees this practice as a pre-liberation of women from the status of wife, mother and guardian of the household.6 The handbag, containing keys, handkerchiefs, coins and small objects, played a reassuring intermediary role between the intimacy of the home and the dangers of public space. In the 1903 catalogue, Louis Vuitton offered a ladies’ handbag in black Morocco leather or pigskin, available in four sizes—20, 25, 30 and 35 centimetres—depending on the quantity of “small purchases” to be made that day. For automobile outings, the flat handbag was also offered in several dimensions, allowing its owner to keep small personal effects or a travel wrap close to hand. The House clearly foresaw the modulation of an object that would inspire Alfred Capus to say that “words are like bags: they take the shape of what we put inside them.”7 As of this period, particular attention was given to the choice of name given to a bag or a line, referring less often to the object itself—its capacity, its characteristics—than to the spirit of travel and escape: historic streets, prestigious neighborhoods, rivers, holiday destinations and exotic capitals.

Around 1906, the influence of the great couturier Paul Poiret initiated a turning point in fashion by putting an end to the Belle Époque silhouette.

His style, inspired by the classical tunics of the Napoleonic period, was built around the elimination of the corset. His “i-shaped” silhouette, highwaisted and with a straight, column-like skirt, was accompanied by the reappearance of the reticule, a long-handled bag deriving its name from the ancient Roman reticulum, whose resurgence was noted in the magazine Femina in 1908.8 Louis Vuitton responded to this change of fashion by presenting a number of reticules in his catalogue “La Promenade des Élégants” in 1910. The drawings by Pierre-Émile Legrain showcase these bags in leather, sealskin, lizard and snakeskin, carried by elegant ladies in skirt-suits; they are also shown cut from tussore, velvet, “Japanese” silk or antique embroidered silks, and worn with dresses for the theatre. The closures are in copper, bronze, silver or gold; the handles are trimmed with fringed tassels. The catalogue states that “the elegant woman is no longer content to possess one single bag” and offers a “veritable ‘array’ of ladies’ bags.”9 The day bags are divided into large, square or rectangular models for shopping and the “very elegant” city bag, which retains its flat shape and boasts “an incomparable lightness”10: a distinguished woman, often accompanied by a chauffeur, could leave her cumbersome personal effects in her car. ✦ Excerpted from Louis Vuitton City Bags: A Natural History Copyright © 2013 Jean-Claude Kaufmann, Ian Luna, Florence Müller, Mariko Nishitani, Colombe Pringle and Deyan Sudjic; Contributions by Rei Kawakubo, Yayoi Kusama, Takashi Murakami and Isao Takakura. First published in the United States of America by Rizzoli International Publications, Inc. 300 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10010 www.rizzoliusa.com 1 Pierre Daninos, Le Jacassin (Paris: Hachette, 1962), n.p.; 2 The bag’s date is based on the address of the store, which appears on the lock. The London Louis Vuitton store opened at 289 Oxford Street in 1885.; 3 Comtesse Jean de Pange, Comment j’ai vu 1900 (Paris: Éditions Bernard Grasset), pp. 74–75.; 4 Ibid., p. 74.; 5 Fanchon, Femina, February 15, 1901, p. 15.; 6 Rem Koolhaas, “A New Activity,” in The Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping (Cologne: Taschen, 2002), p. 506.; 7 Alfred Capus, Les Pensées (Paris: Editions du Cherche-Midi, 1988).; 8 Femina, April 1, 1908.; 9 Catalogue “La Promenade des élégants,” Louis Vuitton, Paris, 1910, pp. 6–7. 10 Ibid., pp. 6–7.

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The

Now

By Ryan Porter

Future is A

haute couture collection to be embraced by both women and men isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as far-fetched as it sounds. Earlier this year, fashion designer Rad Hourani turned the possibility of a unisex line into a reality.

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W “

With its Road Warrior leathers, architectural angles and stark colour palette (often exclusively black and white), the work of Canadian haute couture designer Rad Hourani has often been called “futuristic.” Yet a precision-tailored uniform, versatile enough to flatter a variety of body types, regardless of sex, isn’t science fiction. Rather, Hourani’s so-called “future” aesthetic couldn’t be more now.

Hourani broke 145 years of tradition when he presented haute couture’s first unisex collection last January, invited by Dior president Sidney Toledano on behalf of the industry’s governing body La Fédération Syndicale Haute Couture. He also happened to be the first Canadian to ever receive an invitation.

Closer to home, the 31-year-old is currently the subject of a retrospective at the Phi Centre in Montréal. Co-curating with the gallery’s founder Phoebe Greenberg, he will take over the space with his runway work, as well as photography and film projects. “I have always been interested in aesthetics in general,” says Hourani,“it’s not necessarily fashion.” He is speaking over the phone today from the Rad Hourani Unisex Gallery, the headquarters in Paris where he sells his designs and displays photography. “Actually,” he concludes with a laugh, “I think there is nothing fashion about me.”

Hourani was born in Jordan to a Syrian mother and a Jordanian-Canadian father. “We travelled a lot when I was young,” he says, naming New York and his current home of Paris among the cities he lived in. He arrived in Montréal at age 16 so his older brother could follow in his father’s footsteps and attend McGill University.

A rootless childhood gave Hourani a perspective that informs his work today. “It’s based on being from everywhere and nowhere,” he says. “It showed me different kinds of cultures, different kinds of energies, different kinds of people. It shows you we are all basically the same thing. It made me open my eyes to understand all the divisions that we create.”

While some people who move from place to place to place become masters of assimilation, Hourani describes himself as an introvert who prizes his independence. “I never wanted to dress the same way as others when I was a kid,” he says. “I don’t like when people are doing the same thing.”

Today, he wears his own designs “every day, from the morning

To be couture is not necessarily be serious, but be gold in a way.

Be shining

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until the night.” Even his black brief underwear, he says, is of his own design. The way he feels when wearing his own work is similar to the feedback he receives from his clients. “I feel confident, I feel clear, I feel ageless, timeless, raceless,” he says. “I feel free of all of these things.”

“Finding the neutrality allows the real personality to emerge,” says the Phi Centre’s Phoebe Greenberg. One of eight owners of billion-dollar Canadian real estate conglomerate The Minto Group, Greenberg first discovered Hourani’s work through her son, who started wearing the designs when he was 11 years old. Four years later, his mother estimates he wears Hourani three times a week.

Another fan drawn to Hourani’s uncompromising individualism: Lady Gaga. The unconventional artist has worn his work several times, including an oversized black custom couture jacket while leaving Good Morning America in September. “She looks like a diva, but she is not a diva at all,” he says.

Along with such high-profile clients comes an intensified spotlight, but the only pressure he feels comes from within. He compares being invited to show haute couture to “going to the Olympics—everything needs to be perfect. The inside seams, the outside seams. Everything.”

Hourani’s most recent couture presentation was held last July in Lawrence Cannon’s Paris garden. (Cannon is Canada’s ambassador to France.) As belts were fastened, trench coats were skilfully folded, like origami, to act as backpacks. Others were layered with structured turtlenecks and coats. Every model was fitted with leather over-the-knee accessories in black or white. Backstage, a sign listed 10 commandments for the models to memorize and obey. It started off straightforward: “Walk straight. Walk the beat. Walk slow.” But it was the three statements concluding the list that stood out: “Be pure. Be unisex. Be couture.”

As one of the newest and youngest inductees into couture’s inner circle, Hourani’s view of what it means to “be couture” speaks not only to where fashion’s highest art form is today, but the direction of its uncertain future. “Be couture means be chic, be elegant, be disciplined,” he says. “Be couture is not necessarily be serious, but be gold in a way. Be shining.” And then he arrives at a fitting summary, one that would sound preposterous if it hadn’t already been accomplished within his very own collection: “Be perfect.” ✦

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S

oaring coastlines, active wildlife and five-star accommodations make Kangaroo Island a dream destination.

Leave the chilly winter behind and discover this whimsical Australian gem.

SeasideEscape

By Amber Nasrulla

I

I’m visiting a historic Australian settlement called Grassdale.

Behind me is Edward’s Cottage, which island settlers erected more than a century ago, but all I can focus on is that I’m surrounded by mobs of western grey kangaroos. Thank goodness marsupials are herbivores because there are only two humans in this field—me and interpretive guide Rob Ellson of the touring company, Exceptional Kangaroo Island. I’m close enough to reach out and touch a kangaroo. “Best not to disturb their natural behaviour,” says Ellson as they chew grass. It’s as if he read a cartoon thought-bubble above my head. I’m having trouble processing their presence because I’ve only ever seen them on the National Geographic Channel. One kangaroo stands up and scratches its belly. It looks at me unperturbed and then springs away like a gigantic rabbit—minus the cottontail. It’s an awesome moment. Welcome to Kangaroo Island, I think. Those 24 hours spent travelling from Toronto to Dallas to Brisbane to Sydney to Adelaide to Kingscote were worth it. Completely.

KI, as the locals refer to it, is known as the Galapagos of Australia and is a 20-minute flight from Adelaide in the state of South Australia. Animals outnumber humans on the island by thousands. Considering that 80 per cent of KI is a national park and the animals lack natural predators, I’m convinced I’m being watched, not the other way around. To start, there are 4,600 people and an estimated 70,000 kangaroos. There are 11,000 koalas in the sugar gum or eucalyptus trees. They were introduced to the island in the 1920s because on the mainland hunting, disease, fire and habitat-clearing threatened their survival. On top of that, an estimated one million Tamar wallabies bounce around the island. Then there are Australian sea lions, the most precious and lively sea creatures you will ever see, 1,000 of which live and breed on the aptly named Seal Beach. It’s winter and babies abound; I spy koala and kangaroo joeys peeking from their mothers’ pouches. In essence, KI is a giant zoo without fences.

I muse aloud that Kangaroo Island sounds like my first grader named it. The truth, Ellson says, is a story of survival.

South Australia is the only state that wasn’t established as a penal colony and, in 1802, as British explorer Matthew Flinders was charting the island his crew came close to starving. When they landed on the north coast they managed to ensnare some kangaroos so Flinders named the island in honour of the meal that saved his men. Seeing my expression, Ellson says that kangaroo meat is tasty when eaten rare. In case you’re wondering, no, I didn’t indulge in kangaroo sashimi.

There is an abundance of activities on the island. We head to one of the most popular attractions, the Seal Bay Conservation Park, home of the endangered Australian sea lion. Dozens of seals scamper on the silky sand with their adorable pups. At Flinders Chase National Park, I’m in awe of the leviathan-size granite boulders known as Remarkable Rocks. The koalas are plentiful at the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. In a grove of sugar gum (otherwise known as eucalyptus) trees, I spy sleepy marsupials clinging to branches. At the tiny desert called Little Sahara I huff and puff my way up a vivid white sand dune to watch locals surf the ridge. I devour honey ice cream and buy three pounds of sugar-gum honey from Clifford’s Honey Farm, an apiary that produces sticky golden goodness made with Australian plants by Ligurian bees (brought from Italy in the 1880s).

Ellson drops me off at the Southern Ocean Lodge, my home base for the next two days, whenever I’m not exploring the island. The lodge celebrates luxury. It opened in March 2008 and was named the number one resort in Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific by Travel & Leisure in 2012. The first thing I see upon entering the lobby (which is also called the Great Room) is the breathtaking panorama of the ocean and cliffs that glisten emerald green after a mid-winter July rain. To my left there’s Sunshine, a kangaroo sculpture made of recycled equipment. It’s a whimsical homage to the marsupial as well as the island’s agricultural history.

Architect Max Pritchard designed all aspects of the lodge to accommodate the island’s weather patterns and to accentuate earth, wind and water. The eco-friendly destination has louvered windows and solar panels. The entire property was built using local, organic and recycled materials including refurbished spotted gum walls and recycled timber. The lodge was built into, rather than on top of, the cliff, so that each of the 21 consecutive suites—named in honour of local shipwrecks— descend further and further along a sloping hallway towards the Southern Ocean. And each has a hypnotizing view of Hanson Bay. The Great Room itself is an enormous pavilion of golden sandblasted limestone. There’s a suspended wood-burning steel fireplace and tables laden with Australian tourism magazines and books on local birds and wildlife.

The five-star treatment begins when manager Alison Heath greets me by name as she opens the door. As do all staff, from the fellow who offers me fresh lemonade and canapés to the one who carries my luggage. I begin to wonder: does the lodge make up intelligence dossiers with photographs of its guests?

I dress for dinner in my luxurious split-level suite and am momentarily spellbound by the view. I stand in the sunken lounge, stare out the floor-to-ceiling windows at whitecaps and listen to the sound of the ocean, but it’s not gentle like those CDs that help you fall asleep. This is the mighty ocean letting me know that there’s nothing but 6,000 km of turquoise water between the lodge and Antarctica. From the glass-walled bathroom I can gaze at the ocean when I’m soaking in the giant tub.

The sandblasted limestone floors are heated and, at turn-down, housekeeping switches the fireplace on and leaves a handful of koala-shaped chocolates. There’s also an outdoor terrace.

I have dinner in the Main Lodge with co-managers John Hird and his wife Alison Heath. A large walk-in wine cellar gives guests the option of selecting their dinner wines—Penfolds Grange, Two Hands Wines, Shaw and Smith, for instance. I opt for sparkling water while we chat about the possums and wallabies that have been raiding the kitchen herb garden.

Pondering my relationship with wildlife, I stuff myself with braised abalone, cauliflower “couscous” and thyme crumbs followed by pan-roasted fillet of Coorong mulloway, celeriac purée with mushroom broth and puffed quinoa. For dessert I order caramelized local honey cream with whipped South Australian organic carob and carob crumbs. This is a working holiday after all. “Come here, relax. Make yourself at home,” Hird says. Oh, no need to insist. I am relaxed—even if thousands of marsupials are watching me. ✦

Christophe Saintagne photo by Pierre Monetta; tomato photo by Getty Images

Eating for Elegance

Author and TV personality Laura Calder takes us inside of Alain Ducasse’s new restaurant at Le Meurice, part of the Dorchester Group.

T

There’s nothing like a couple of months in a West Coast fishing village to make a girl feel fresh-faced and restored. And there’s nothing like a couple of months in a West Coast fishing village to make a girl feel as utterly inelegant as humanly possible.

The scent of wood smoke was still clinging to my clothes as I boarded a plane back to Paris, savouring memories of just-caught seafood and of neighbourly deliveries of redcurrants and foraged chanterelles. My eyebrows were as bushy as caterpillars and my hair looked as though it had been styled by a member of Mötley Crüe. Of course I’d deal with all that as soon as I hit the ground, but somehow I knew it was going to take more than a manicure to get me feeling like a member of the civilized world again. What I’d need would be a serious occasion to rise to.

I called my good friend, Camille Labro, food writer for the magazine of the national French newspaper Le Monde. “Let’s spoil ourselves and go dine somewhere luxurious,” I suggested. She was all for that. “How about Le Meurice?” she proposed. Alain Ducasse, whose empire comprising more than 20 restaurants in nine countries and boasts an astonishing total of 17 Michelin stars, had just taken over the restaurant at the long-standing grand hotel that overlooks the Tuileries. “Chef Christophe Saintagne from the Plaza Athénée is running the kitchen,” Camille informed me. “He’s been with Mr. Ducasse since 2000. By the way, I’m six months pregnant.” Oh great, now that makes two of the least glamourous-feeling people in Paris dining in one of the world’s most glorious restaurants.

Three-star dining is territory I usually only venture into once or twice a year; as an enthusiast for home cooking, the occasional fix of bedazzlement lasts me a long time. And bedazzled I was as I entered the dining room, a palatial example of rococo splendour, with widely spaced tables that seemed to waltz about the room like ladies at court. Which is why, when we sat down, it was slightly curious to find ourselves faced with a giant heirloom tomato in the place where a floral bouquet would normally be. I glanced about and noticed that other tables were similarly adorned–one with a bunch of turnips, another S / STYLE & FASHION | Winter 2013

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with an eggplant. Had the court ladies in the lovely gowns been let loose into the gardens?

Our first course was a cocotte of tiny vegetables cooked on a bed of salt. These we ate in the friendly manner of sharing a fondue, piercing delicate bites–each bite was different–onto a two-pronged fork and dipping them into a light and tangy herbed cream sauce. That was a nice way to start off dinner with an old friend; you’d almost call it casual. Next came smoked bonita and grilled eggplant with nori vinegar and Szechwan pepper, followed by sea bream with turnip leaves and slightly confited figs–a combination as surprising as it was delicious.

Lamb was served rare in long, thin strips with an acidic jus, and the side dish of bulgur cooked risotto style with lemon, mint and artichokes, was so bafflingly fabulous I couldn’t get enough (or figure out how it had been made). The finale, a superb chocolate dessert made by pastry chef Cédric Grolet, had almost no traces of sweetness, just a perfect balance of bitter and salt, crunchy and smooth, which left my eyes wide with amazement and forever changed my idea of what dessert should be.

It happened that Mr. Ducasse was in the restaurant that night and he joined us for a drink. “How, when you’re so closely associated to another great Parisian palace like the Plaza Anténée, do you take over another restaurant and make it unique?” I needed to know. “You let yourself be inspired by the location,” says Ducasse. “Each has its own history…the cuisine must tell the story of the place.” That was a lovely, romantic response. It didn’t quite feel like an answer, but simply a clue to the puzzle. I still didn’t understand why there were pumpkins and beets roaming around in that grand room. And then, as I glanced out the window towards the Tuileries in contemplation, it suddenly struck me: Catherine de Medicis’ gardens! Why, of course! The court hadn’t been let loose into the garden; quite the other way around!

So there, under the chandeliers, the mystery had gradually been revealed. Now it all made sense why, in contrast to the opulence of the dining room, the food at Le Meurice was elegant in a simple way: perfect ingredients, perfectly cooked and left to speak for themselves—not remotely in a pretentious way, nor in an overly simplistic way either—in a quietly confident and interesting way that left Camille and me impressed, genuinely satisfied and reassured. It delivered an encouraging message, too: You can be pregnant and elegant! You can be a bunch of radishes and be elegant! Thinking further, as I wandered home along the Seine, even life in a West Coast fishing village, which clearly the Ducasse brigade would know how to appreciate, might have its own ways, in the right moments, of teaching the world something about “elegant.” ✦

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The last word

Blue Blood Rebel Interior designer India Hicks has finally found her style groove.

By Sahar Nooraei

Who has influenced your design aesthetic?

My father, of course. You can’t be the daughter of David Hicks and not think that tented dining rooms of scarlet, puce and shocking pink were the norm. We had peacocks named after Greek gods as pets for goodness sake. It was a colourful childhood.

Is that aesthetic still evolving?

Oh yes, all the time. Looking back to my first book or my first fragrance collection or the first apartment I decorated for myself, I would now tackle the project completely differently. Would I ever again paint my bathroom banana yellow? I don’t think so.

How would you describe your personal style?

Chaotic at the moment. I recently suffered a bike accident and have scraped all the skin off my knees, so I am not able to wear my regular

uniform of tight trousers. Packing for a week’s worth of business meetings in New York, I was forced to take the few skirts that I own.

Panicked by this unfamiliar and feminine turn, I completed the look with biker boots.

What profession, other than interior design, would you like to pursue?

Editor-in-Chief. Note the “in-chief ” bit. I would love to edit a magazine, but only if I were the top banana.

You were once a top model. Do you still follow the fashion industry?

Top model is too generous. But yes, I did model for many years. I loved roaming the world with small creative teams. But it’s much tougher than anyone imagines. You are never in one place for long, you cannot predict when the next job might come along and far too much importance is placed on your eyebrows.

Yes, I once lost a job because the art director felt my eyebrows were too prominent.

You are a natural beauty. What’s your secret?

I drink a lot of green juice, I eat a lot of chocolate, my kids make me laugh, but at the end of the day, I thank my mother. It’s all genetic isn’t it?

Who is your favourite fashion designer?

Ralph Lauren. His clothes fit me as though they were made to measure. I never have to try them on. Which is good nowadays since I don’t have the time.

Why did you decide to call Harbour Island, Bahamas your home?

Harbour Island was an accident. A very lovely one. I fell in love with a man and the island, became pregnant very quickly and never left.

But my mother and siblings, whom I remain especially close to, are still all in England.

I travel there a lot, but after a few days of London fog, I remember why I left.

Do you have a style muse?

Not really. There are stylish working women I admire, like Kelly Wearstler and Anya Hindmarch, who have a strong personality and carry a recognized success story.

S / STYLE & FASHION | Winter 2013

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How do you define success?

I wouldn’t know where to begin. But I imagine from a mother’s point of view if you have happy, healthy and balanced children, you could not ask for anything more.

Photo by Brittan Goetz

How did you get your start in design?

Timidly. My father was recognized globally, my brother was already a talented designer and my sister-in-law a fashion designer. It left little room to find my own voice. Moving to a small island in the Bahamas, where I began a life less ordinary, gave me the confidence to start calling myself a designer.

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