SHARP » CONTENTS
gangster suits, the james dean cowboy look and adriana lima.
2 10
8 10
70 78 84
16
What Tony told amy Tony Bennett, Amy Winehouse and the art of storytelling.
Hugh Jackman All singing, all dancing, all Hugh. Plus, some stuff about fighting robots.
How to Fix canada A debate, of sorts, among our nation’s leading minds.
90 102
original gangsters How to rock a three-piece suit like Nucky Thompson.
Oh, Adriana! Some well-earned praise for one of the world’s most beautiful women.
108
Hollywood Style
118
Politicians With Style
92
120 130
Denim on Denim Do the Canadian tuxedo right.
The Sharp Man of Style Joy Division’s Ian Curtis was more than just a musical pioneer.
for more cars, women and other manly pursuits, visit sharpformen.com
Connery, Hoffman, Dean show us how to dress like a movie star.
We pick Canada's best-dressed leaders, and offer some advice to a few who need it.
s h a r p f o r m e n.c o m | S e p t e m b e r . 2 0 1 1
- FOB-Guide2.indd 16
11-08-19 8:49 AM
SP J12
SHARP » CONTENTS
Guide
28
an investment in cool
30
34
40
32
38
62
38
Sharp Woman
40
Emma Lahana has a pretty name—and a mouth like a sailor.
32
film & tv
42
music
46 Taschen’s celebration of sci-fi Soviet architecture.
style
The Well-Dressed Man What to do with a trenchcoat belt, the best way to shave your head and colour for fall.
62
cars Audi’s newest R8 Spyder, Benz’s redesigned C coupé and Porsche's latest 911.
electronics Tablet showdown: three mean slates for the mobile man.
How Ron Sexsmith finally became cool.
books
60
alcohol Canadian whisky makes its triumphant return.
44
36
food
heroes of menswear A salute to the men who care about making you look good.
The best new restaurants in Canada.
Shark movies, Carlos the Jackal and the wisdom of Ron Swanson.
34
48
River surfing, beer gardens and (of course) Oktoberfest.
The essential leather jacket.
30
48 hours: munich
68
life lessons Sebastian Vettel shares tips on driving...and seduction.
Briefcases, gloves, shoes and boots for fall.
standards 14 Editor’s Letter 24 Man About Town 128 Where to Buy 18
s h a r p f o r m e n.c o m | S e p t e m b e r . 2 0 1 1
- FOB-Guide2.indd 18
11-08-17 5:45 PM
TH 0810
SHARP FOOD
RESTAURANTS
for recipes, restaurant reviews and manly foodstuffs, visit sharpformen.com
Oyama prosciutto with smoked buttermilk and fennel at Hawksworth.
The Best New Restaurants in Canada From the perfect low-key business lunch in Toronto to Vancouver’s best haute local cuisine, this year’s crop of new top-notch eateries distinguishes itself by showcasing our country’s homegrown finest—both in talent and in produce. – John Martin MacDonald The Gabardine, Toronto
Slyly hidden from the packed sidewalks of Toronto’s Financial District, Alison MacKenna and Kate Rodrigues’ humble take on the gastropub provides much needed solace for the power-lunchers who populate the surrounding towers. Within sight of Old City Hall, the plush burgundy banquettes and mellow lighting of the intimate space make it an oasis of calm amid the chaos outside. Chef Graham Pratt’s comfort food menu is defined by quality ingredients, expertly prepared and served on your grandmother’s finest floral china. Cocktails are classic and concise and an ever-evolving wine list is intelligently assembled. Mandatory dishes include lavender-laced trout gravlax with 40
crème fraiche, stacked shrimp po’boys and the always-popular Ploughman’s Lunch. 372 Bay St.; www.thegabardine.com
Le Filet, Montreal
When Hubert Marsolais and Claude Pelletier (of Club Chasse et Pêche fame) decided to open a strictly seafood joint in the shadow of Mont-Royal, few could have predicted the splash—so to speak—that it would make on the Montreal dining scene. Since opening its doors in February, Le Filet has become one of the most sought-after seats in the city. Dressed in cool metallic tones, the space is designed to mimic the iridescence of the ocean, and is populated with fashionably dressed Montrealers sipping Chablis from
custom-etched stemware. Fresh oysters come in five options (from miso gratin to Bloody Mary) and should be followed by incredible smoked mackerel rillettes or fluke sashimi with Japanese plum, wasabi and cucumber. Larger plates are divided into cleverly titled categories (Earthly, Amphibians, Warm Tide) and standing out among them are the snow crab risotto and grilled octopus with marrow. 219 Av. du Mont-Royal Ouest www.lefilet.ca
Acadia, Toronto
Inspired by the diaspora of Atlantic French Canadians, Matt Blondin’s menu at his one-of-a-kind restaurant traces their culinary legacy from Louisbourg to Louisiana.
s h a r p f o r m e n.c o m | S e p t e m b e r . 2 0 1 1
- FOB-Guide2.indd 40
11-08-18 3:20 PM
RESTAURANTS
Refined comfort food on Bay Street at the Gabardine.
Described as “low-country” cuisine, Acadia’s plates are southern standards offered with inspired presentation and conscientiously sourced products. Start with the grits and shrimp or Northumberland Strait scallops with chicken crackling and move on to pork sideribs or red grouper with Gulf prawn étoufée. The list of wines and cocktails is inspired, including seasonal punches and progressive takes on classic drinks like the perfectly balanced State Lines (bourbon, aperol, sweet vermouth, Maraschino liqueur). 50C CLINTON ST.; WWW.ACADIARESTAURANT.COM
Montreal’s Le Filet serves up equal parts style and substance. HAWKSWORTH, VANCOUVER
Uber-chef David Hawksworth has been the setting the pace in Vancouver fine-dining since leading West to instant acclaim in 2000. His namesake in the newly restored (after much delay) Rosewood Hotel Georgia has made a bold statement in an already competitive culinary arena. With his vision focused on seasonal fare, Hawksworth has crafted a menu to showcase the formidable bounty of the region. This, combined with the city’s most enviable new wine cellar and a prohibition-chic cocktail program, leaves
SHARP FOOD
Acadia’s bar staff take their mixology seriously. Try the Mint Julep.
many in Vancouver scrambling to keep up. Decadent and innovative openers include tomato gazpacho with lobster and cotton candy to a foie gras parfait with green apple and walnut. Sample à la carte entrees such as the roasted sablefish with black garlic and tom yum broth or indulge in the seasonal sixcourse tasting menu with wine flights. 801 WEST GEORGIA ST., VANCOUVER WWW.HAWKSWORTHRESTAURANT.COM FOR OUR COMPLETE LIST OF THE NEW BEST RESTAURANTS IN CANADA, VISIT SHARPFORMEN.COM
Where passion meets performance The Audi driving experience is coming to Canada this fall. Visit us online to learn more about this high performance driver training program with stops in Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver.
- FOB-Guide2.indd 41
11-08-19 8:49 AM
SHARP STYLE
BOOTS
The Fall Boot
Canali, $495 Tommy Hilfiger, $298 Mark McNairy, $384 Ermenegildo Zegna, $695
52
p h oto : t h e r e s e a l d g Å r d ; S t y l i s t : L u k e L a n g s d a l e ; A s s i s ta n t : K r i s t i n e H a g e d o r n
Before the snow sets in and we’re forced to choose practicality over style (at least, some of the time), fall boots are one the most versatile things you can add to your wardrobe. Choose something in a dark brown leather—either a Chelsea slip-on style, or the more traditional lace-up—and wear it with khakis and a chunky sweater, a suit, or jeans and a blazer.
s h a r p f o r m e n.c o m | S e p t e m b e r . 2 0 1 1
- FOB-Guide2.indd 52
11-08-17 5:52 PM
SHARP STYLE
GLOVES
While many men get by with one pair of gloves through the fall and winter, we wouldn’t recommend it. To say nothing of the fact that your gloves should complement your footwear and coat, gloves frequently get left behind on hall tables, desks and trains, and being without a pair on a frosty day can be most unpleasant. The solution? Just to the right. 1 ben sherman, $98 2 Ermenegildo Zegna, $375 3 APC, $200 4 Paul Smith, $450
58
s h a r p f o r m e n.c o m | S e p t e m b e r . 2 0 1 1
- FOB-Guide2.indd 58
p h o t o : t h e r e s e a l d g Ă… r d ; St y l i s t : L u k e L a n g s d a l e ; A s s i s t a n t : K r i s t i n e H a g e d o r n
The Case For Multiple Gloves
11-08-17 5:53 PM
t1_Ha
NG, U H C E C N A L , N O S BY GREG HUD , AND SADAF AHSAN LEE RICHARDSON
LEGEND:
Literature
Science
Thinkers
Politics
Activist
Culture
SHARP 84
Canada2.indd 84
11-08-17 6:22 PM
ADMITTEDLY
(and arguably), Canada has fewer troubles than our neighbours to the south, but life up here is far from perfect. We survived the recession in good shape, but debt still looms over the populace like a punishment. Depending on how you look at it, we’re either the world’s greatest hope for politically stable oil, thanks to Alberta’s oil sands, or by the same token, we are a gaping blight on the planet’s fragile environment. We’re ahead of the continent in terms of marriage rights, but we still have our fair share of disenfranchised citizens. And then there are the seemingly simple cultural problems that have always held us back in business, the arts, fashion and politics, not the least of which is our good-natured humility and easy-going, pragmatic apathy. Yes, things are good, but they could be better:
SHARP 85
Canada2.indd 85
11-08-18 1:43 PM
WELL, ENOUGH APATHY,
we thought. It’s time to solve some Canada’s most pressing issues. To help us, and you, we got more than 20 of this country’s brightest thinkers, writers, fashion icons, business leaders, activists, and our one most famous sex educator to sound off on what—from their unique perspective—is Canada’s biggest problem, and what we should do to solve it right now. The result was a cacophony of complaints and solutions that felt like walking through the most interesting and contentious cocktail party in town: ideas bouncing off each other, agreeing, and connecting, even though no one was actually in the same room.
JOIN US AS WE MODERATE THE VIRTUAL DEBATE. To begin, some levity:
NEIL PASRICHA
Professional Optimist, Author, The Book of Awesome (and its follow-up) There are a lot of things that need discussion, discourse, and debate. But there is also SEE: some time needed to take a step back What follows and just remember how many awesome things we have to The line between optimism and be thankful for. Who apathy too often blurs in this country though. Maybe it’s in response to the doesn’t love popping echoes of shrill panic wafting up from the country below us. Still, it’s never bubble wrap, smelling a good idea to forget optimism, even coffee in the morning, when we’re inundated with troubles. SEE: or flipping to the cold Skinner, Brett side of the pillow? 86
BRETT SKINNER
Think Tank Captain, Fraser Institute Our biggest problem is the threat to Canadian prosperity contained in three words: debt, debt, debt. I’m talking government debt, consumer debt and exposure to foreign debt. Canada weathered the global economic crisis that began in 2008 better than most developed countries. But our economic fundamentals are very worrying. After 10 years of surplus budgets, the federal government began running deficits again by 2009. The feds overspent revenues by $55 billion last year. Provincial debts are equally scary. Ontario spent nearly $20 billion more than it collected in revenue this year. Six of 10 provinces are expected to produce annual budget deficits this year. Taxpayers be warned, when It’s thoughtful to protect our governments run up debt today, they children from are just deferring tax increases into the economic ruin; future. Politicians are tying a huge he’s not the only one thinking of economic burden around the neck of the kids the next generation that is going to SEE: damage future standards of living. Kielburger, Craig To make matters worse, government borrowing competes with the private sector for people’s savings and therefore makes it more expensive for businesses to raise capital needed for investment in Like starting economically productive activities. There is an Internet a lot of work to do. Governments at all tailoring shop. levels must deeply cut spending to balance SEE: See: Vucko, budgets. They should start by partially Kyle and Gani, privatizing health care funding. This could Heikal be done by introducing percentage-based user fees and by allowing people to buy private insurance coverage if they want to. Aside from this, we need public sector SEE: pension reform. Civil servants should be Levant, Ezra moved from defined benefit plans to (not surprisingly) defined contribution Tell this plans like most private sector employees. to her. This would eliminate unfunded pension SEE: liabilities over time. Westberg, Politicians at all levels should be looking Carol. Well, actually, tell for every way possible to privatize this to a lot government of people. services and SEE: reduce the public service through Graff, Gordon—it’s as retirement attrition and auctioning if the only thing environmental dreamers off government-owned assets. Our and conservative political leaders need to radically policy wonks can reduce the scope of government agree on is populist distrust for governand take the handcuffs off the ment. At least that’s economy by broadly deregulating something. the private sector.
S H A R P F O R M E N.C O M | S E P T E M B E R . 2 0 1 1
Canada2.indd 86
11-08-18 1:44 PM
sharp fixes canada
EZRA LEVANT
Ideologue, Television Host
There is a big question of the proper size of government. When Stephen Harper took office the
government was about 10 percent has exceeded its is the CBC; we don’t Although they wouldn’t smaller in terms of civil service proper borders. need a government agree on much else, than it is now. Compare that to The government broadcaster any more. considering Levant’s book, Ethical Oil, deJean Chrétien who actually shrank shouldn’t be the Just as we didn’t fends the oil sands, this the size of civil service; Stephen default setting for need a government point was beautifully Harper has vastly increased it. how problems are gas station anymore: articulated by a certain Giller Prize winner. That’s not just spending, that is solved, it shouldn’t we sold our stake in SEE: hiring people who then become be the default Petro Can. We don’t Boyden, Joseph part of the baseline. Once you hire setting for who need a government a civil servant you are permanently does something in society, who airline, and we sold our stake in increasing the size and makes the decisions, who Air Canada. We don’t need a Counter scope of government. pays for something, for government broadcaster; we have point? It’s the moral issue, what how you get your job. We hundreds of channels on the dial.
SEE: do you do for yourself in need a smaller government Beker, Jeanne your own life and what do and more respect for civil you source to the governliberty. On the economic ment, and I think the government, side, I would just start cutting. One especially in the United States, of my favourite things to talk about
JOSEPH BOYDEN
Giller-Prize-winning novelist, Through Black Spruce Our citizens are suffering from serious malaise when it comes to what should be most important to us: our physical world. The vast majority of scientists agree that our planet is in grave danger, and that humans are responsible for greatly speeding up its—and our own—destruction. Yet incredibly shortsighted corporate greed, combined with equally shortsighted and opportunistic government policy, SEE: allows boondoggles like the development of the environGraff, Gordon mentally suicidal Alberta tar sands to not just take economic precedence but become the cornerstone of Canada’s economic future. In other words, we, the citizens of this country, sit back, shrug our shoulders, and watch faceless greedheads speed up our demise while making hefty profits from it, and us. And please hear this: tar is far too thick to make for good trickle down economics. The average Canadian sees no benefit from the insanity that is the Alberta tar sands project: gas prices are higher than they’ve ever been; water, which is this country’s most fragile and irreplaceable resource, is being wasted in criminal amounts for every litre of oil steamed out of sand; and more and more multinationals are making the fantastic profits that don’t stay in this country. We are on the cusp of great change. But will it be for the better, or will this change be forced upon us through catastrophic failure of our physical environment? We are at the fulcrum’s point, and within the next decade we will either tip forward or tumble back. The simple fact is that Canada doesn’t need to exist as an oil-based economy. Everything about oil speaks to our worst traits as humans: the burning of it is incredibly harmful to the environment, and please don’t forget, we are not just a part of this environment but absolutely reliant
There’s a billion dollars right there.
on it; the different processes of extracting oil are becoming more and more difficult and dangerous; and, believe it or not, the oil industry does not care about you, my dear Canadian, despite its media attempts to put lipstick on this particular pig. Oil companies are incredibly complex and powerful multinational influences whose only goal is to convince their shareholders that they can remain profitable. And so, simply, how do we, the people of this still great nation, begin trying to take charge once more? Because, after all, this is what we should be doing as members of the world’s greatest country, right? Shouldn’t we be taking charge rather than sitting back as spectators to our own lives and the lives of our children? Canada, which once, not so long ago, seemed positioned to be the shining example of environmental stewardship as well as economic sustainability and growth, needs to find that moral, economic, and sensible high ground again. And this is easier than you might think. The future of oil is limited, and the gas companies know it. Wind energy and solar energy, to name two, have arrived, and wait for us like eager young geniuses in the wings. The ability for every home in this country to serve as its own power engine, even create a surplus of renewable and low impact energy, is not some futuristic fantasy but a reality. We’re sadly addicted to oil. It’s no secret. But like with any addiction, the hardest part is admitting, first, that there’s a problem. And, yes, there is a problem. The solution to this problem, this addiction, is to do what Canadians have always done in times of great strife. We have to get off of our collective ass and get active. We have to slap ourselves SEE: in the face, snap out of it, and put our foot down. Our Mackenzie, future is short if we allow it to be gambled on oil. It’s time Matthew to take the reins, my fellow Canadians, not be the horse.
S H A R P F O R M E N.C O M
Canada2.indd 87
87
11-08-17 6:22 PM
Photos: Clay Patrick McBride Fashion Director and Stylist: Luke Langsdale Interview: Lance Chung
Original
Gangsters The 1920s come roaring back
92
s h a r p f o r m e n.c o m September.2011
Boardwalk Empire 2.indd 92
11-08-18 1:51 PM
JD: When we start our story, America is just coming out of the war, and a guy would have worn a suit everywhere he went. So, sometimes he would have to be more formal, or dress less formal—he had to consider whether he was going to church or dancing or to work during the day. So, basically, it was an all-purpose outfit. But America was doing quite well in the 1920s, and people, just in general, would have had more clothing in their closets. So you would have more options and you wouldn’t have to rely on three-piece suits to take you to everywhere you were going. Gant by Michael Bastian sportcoat, $798; Gant by Michael Bastian pants, $398; Brioni shoes, $595; Stetson Stratoliner fedora, $142.
S H A R P F O R M E N.C O M
Boardwalk Empire 2.indd 99
99
11-08-17 6:01 PM
Lima3.indd 102
11-08-17 6:08 PM
Lima3.indd 103
11-08-17 6:08 PM
SHARP 103
BY: G R E G H UDS ON PH OT OS: MAT T JONES
WILL SAVE US ALL
112
s h a r p f o r m e n.c o m | S e p t e m b e r . 2 0 1 1
Classic Hollywood Style.indd 112
11-08-17 5:54 PM
th
e h o f
s h a r p f o r m e n.c o m
fman
★
113
Brunello Cucinelli jacket, $3,415; Brioni shirt, $595; Canali boots, $395; Burberry Brit jeans, $250.
Classic Hollywood Style.indd 113
11-08-17 5:54 PM