LOOK BETTER • FEEL BETTER • KNOW MORE NOVEMBER 2012
SHARPFORMEN.COM
DANIEL
CRAIG SAVING BOND NEW FALL
SUITS WITH THAT GUY FROM SUITS
MUST-HAVE
DENIM
007 THE MAN THEWOMEN THECARS THECLOTHES THE GADGETS 82: PAGE
BE MOROEME HANDS
O YS TTER A W 71 M BET O GRO ERY DAY V E
THE RIGHT STYLE, FIT & WASH FOR EVERY SITUATION
STEVE NASH TAKES L.A. RICK MERCER
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S T Y L E
C U L T U R E
T R A V E L
G R O O M I N G
GABRIEL MACHT F E A T U R E S
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The Canadian Plot to Take Over the World
The Tenors have their sights on mainstream pop superstardom, and so far everything is going according to plan.
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The Grooming Guide
Adapt your grooming regimen to your life—no matter how old you are.
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Salt Fields and Speed Freaks
Matt Bubbers spends time with the eccentric outsiders who risk their lives chasing land speed records.
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The Thinking Man’s Bond
The secret history of Skyfall and the man who rescued the Bond franchise from certain doom.
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The Files You Requested: The Women of Bond
No celebration of James Bond would be complete without some time spent on the real reason men want to be a secret agent.
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Breaking Down 007
To celebrate 50 years of James Bond, we run the numbers on the international man of mystery’s dangerous, jet-setting lifestyle.
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Exclusive Details
A collection of beautiful objects inspired by the details, design and craftsmanship of the BMW 6 Series Gran Coupé.
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F E A T U R E S
On Top of the World
The season’s sharpest technical jackets in the heart of the Swiss Alps.
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Heavyweight Contenders
Suits star Gabriel Macht rocks the hefty wool, flannel and tweed suits you need this fall. VISIT SHARPFORMEN.COM
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W O M E N
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TECHNICAL OUTERWEAR PAGE 140
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34 The First Thing
The smallest interchangeable lens camera in the world makes a strong argument against Instagram.
70 Cars
The new BMW 7 Series was built for the man who has everything. We test it out on the streets of St. Petersburg.
35 A Man Worth Listening To
Rick Mercer takes some time out of his busy ranting schedule to give us a piece of his mind.
74 Dad Skills
Shaughnessy Bishop-Stall sets sail to rescue his son with the help of Canada’s answer to James Bond.
38 A Welcome Introduction
If you haven’t been watching Boss, Kathleen Robertson is a very good reason to start.
40 Sharp Talks Funny
Canada’s most laugh-inducing comics, actors, writers and generally funny people.
46 The Well-Fed Man
From Montreal comfort food to Nova Scotian fare, here are the best new restaurants in Canada.
50 Well-Traveled Man: Lower East Side
It’s time to go hyper-local on your next visit to the Big Apple—starting with the LES.
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56 Quilted Jackets
The British outerwear classic is the latest old-man staple to get a contemporary update.
58 Sharp On Denim
Everything—absolutely everything—you need to know before you buy your next pair of jeans.
66 Heroes of Menswear
Record producer, DJ, musician, cologne pitchman and general tastemaker Mark Ronson talks global style.
68 Watches
These world timers put the standard chrono to shame.
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EDI TOR’S LETTER
L E T T E RS
T HE M AN AB O U T T OW N
B R AND D IR EC T O RY
R ANK & F ILE
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BOOK FOR MEN FW 2012 LAUNCH PARTY
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ith the beginning of the fall season comes the release of every man’s ultimate lifestyle compendium, our Fall/Winter 2012 Book For Men. The party to end all parties, dapper men and beautiful women gathered at the new Shangri-La hotel in downtown Toronto to celebrate the book’s release and enjoy the finest in food, drinks and cigars. Guests were treated to a complimentary ride to the event by car service company Uber. A 2013 BMW 6 Series Gran Coupé and 2013 BMW ActiveHybrid 7 Series were on display at the entrance as partygoers walked the red carpet to join the night’s festivities. Just outside the Book For Men party, guests were also greeted by PUSH models dressed in the latest men’s fall fashions, provided by GOTSTYLE. Inside, 600 of the city’s most influential tastemakers mingled and dined on hors d’oeuvres like Moroccan chicken samosas and potato rosemary sea salt pizza, while chefs at the central meat carving station served Peking duck and roast suckling pig. Drinks flowed freely throughout the night, courtesy of The Glenlivet, Absolut Elyx, Peroni and Havana Club.
Continues on page 28.
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1.WELCOME TO THE BOOK FOR MEN 2.CHARLOTTE JENKINS 3.THE EDITOR’S LOUNGE 4.THE TENORS 5.MARTIN READER AND GUEST 6.JOHANNE DUROCHER AND ERIC GOLD 7.ANDREA BOLLEY AND ROBERT GAGE
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Continued from page 26.
Some of the night’s notable guests included CHUM FM’s Darren B. Lamb, Washington Capitals’ Wojtek Wolski, Toronto Argonauts’ Mike Bradwell, Property Brothers’ Drew Scott and world-renowned vocal quartet, The Tenors. Attendees on the outdoor terrace enjoyed Mombacho cigars alongside picture-perfect views of the downtown skyline. In the Editor’s Lounge, luxury timepieces from Chanel (provided by Bandiera Jewellers), IWC (provided by Solaris Jewellers) and Gc were on display next to high-end audio equipment from Planet of Sound, bespoke shoes from Treccani Milano and Globe-Trotter luggage from Betty Hemmings Leathergoods. Elsewhere, guests were treated to complimentary shoeshines from Walter’s Shoe Care, while American Crew offered relaxing hand massages. It was, without a doubt, the party of the year.
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13 12 8.MIKE JACK, MICHAEL LEVINE AND MICHAEL NGUYEN 9.CANDICE CHAN AND ALISON SLIGHT 10.DREW SCOTT 11.LINDSAY OSTRIDGE AND GLEN BAXTER 12.JEFF MILLER, MATT MILLER AND GUESTS 13.ELESIA STEWART AND DALE FOYER
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P H OTO G RAP HY BY G E O R G E P I M E NTE L
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ACTUAL
S IZ E! (9 .9 CM)
PENTAX Q $530
MIGHTY MINI The Pentax Q—the world’s smallest and lightest interchangeable lens camera—reinforces the old adage that good things come in small packages. In addition to its range of five lenses, the Q packs a 12.4 megapixel sensor that’s excellent in low-light conditions, plus 1080p HD video capability. While its compact size makes it fit easily in a coat pocket, the Q’s magnesium alloy body and retro-cool looks might make you want to wear it around your neck anyway.
the EDITOR’S
– COLEMAN MOLNAR
WIN THIS CAMERA! ·NOVEMBER 2012
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PICK
G U I D E
WO M E N
A WELCOME INTRODUCTION KATHLEEN ROBERTSON DOESN’T HATE WINNIPEG BY GREG HUDSON WHERE YOU’VE SEEN HER: Admit it: you remember her from her stint as Clare on Beverly Hills 90210—the original series, not the new one— not that you even knew there was a new one. Right? WHERE YOU WILL SEE HER: Playing opposite a very un-Frasier-like Kelsey Grammer on Boss, a show about corrupt politicians and morally dubious people in Chicago. No, it’s not a documentary. And neither is Code Name: Geronimo, her upcoming film about the killing of Osama bin Laden. THERE WILL BE SWEAR WORDS: For someone so, well, photogenic, Robertson hasn’t exactly chased mainstream projects (not since 90210, anyway). Instead, her filmography is full of independent films that didn’t pay much. “Cable television has sort of picked up where indie film left off. All the experimental, risky roles and risky material are on cable television. Boss feels like an indie movie.” AND SPEAKING OF INDEPENDENT: One of her next projects, Your Time Is Up, finds her acting, producing and writing. “I’m most excited about my writing. I love acting, but I’ve been doing it for such a long time. The writing just feels like something completely new. I love not having to wait for someone to give me permission to be creative,” she says. But, just like elsewhere, don’t expect any popcorn fare coming out of her laptop anytime soon. “The stuff that I’ve written so far has been character driven. Movies like Transformers don’t really interest me. I don’t think I know what a robot looks like.” THIS INTERVIEW IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE CIT Y OF WINNIPEG: Robertson is calling from a car on her way to the airport. How’s she doing? “I’m good,” she says. Then, as if to explain, “I’m in Winnipeg.” She’s on her way home to Los Angeles, but that doesn’t mean she’s too cool for the Peg. “I’m from Hamilton, so I’m always very defensive. I always stand up for the Canadian cities that get a beating. I love Winnipeg! It gets a bad rap, but it was great.”
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·NOVEMBER 2012
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COMEDY
Rick Mercer is going to be pretty upset by this…
SHARP TALKS FUNNY IT USED TO BE THAT CANADA’S BIGGEST ENTERTAINMENT EXPORT WAS FUNNY PEOPLE: THINK SCTV, JIM CARREY, MIKE MYERS (BELIEVE IT OR NOT). BUT, WE’RE MAKING A COMEBACK. WE’RE JUST NOT THAT SHOWY ABOUT IT, IS ALL. BY CHRIS LACKNER
DO WNLO AD SHARP FOR THE IPAD
FOR HILARIOUS VIDEOS FROM THESE FUNNY CANADIANS
·NOVEMBER 2012
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Interesting. I’d like to hear more about him.
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e’ve been told that laughter is the best medicine. If this is true, we’re currently in need of multiple prescriptions. From the economy to politics, we live in a world full of crushing uncertainty. Perhaps that explains why we find ourselves living in a second Golden Age of Comedy. The small screen offers a buffet of intelligent and edgy cult comedy, including Louie and Community, and mainstream successes like New Girl—not to mention the late-night brilliance of Jon Stewart and Stephen Colbert. On the big screen, we're being served everything from the man-child antics of Will Ferrell and Zach Galifianakis to the woman-child antics of Kristen Wiig. Online an entire industry has developed around funny people independently making podcasts. But one key ingredient seems to be missing: Canada. We're a country famous for our comedic exports—from John Candy and Dan Aykroyd to Jim Carrey. But other than Vancouver's Seth Rogen, and the periodic animated outing from Mike Myers, Canadians seem MIA in this boom time. Sure, Ryan Reynolds can make you laugh, but can he write a joke? But all is not lost: There are many Canuck jesters quietly making us chuckle.
Second? When was the first? Oh, you mean, because Mr. D, my show on CBC is filming its second season. I get it.
Corrected by Gerry Dee
CALL ME FITZ Why You Don’t Know It: The TV series airs without much fanfare on the subscriberdriven HBO Canada, where it’s overshadowed by shows like Girls and True Blood. That is to say, shows with more breasts. Why You Should: Who would have thought that 90210’s straight tarrow Brandon Walsh could be so funny? On Call me Fitz, the Vancouver-born Priestley plays a sleazy, morally bankrupt car salesman (are there any other kind?) and nails the part. In an age of comedic antiheroes, Richard “Fitz” Fitzpatrick deserves your applause (this guy makes Charlie Sheen look a boy scout). Meanwhile, the show’s writer, the Toronto-born Sheri Elwood, is pulling a Tina Fey, signing on to write and run a new series called The B-Side, to be developed by the people behind those CSI shows.
American Stephen Colbert pokes fun at Canada. Julien’s presence explains all that. Political humour in this country is about as interesting as the politicians it skewers, so we can feel good knowing a Canadian is busy down south, where things are more interesting.
SARAH CHALKE AND JON DORE Why You Don’t Know Them: Because they’re both natives of Ottawa, the city where fun goes to die. Why You Should: In her new sitcom, How to Live with Your Parents (For the Rest of Your Life), Chalke plays a single mom forced to move back in with her (get this) eccentric, hippydippy parents. Her co-star, funnyman Jon Dore, may also finally get the recognition he deserves after his underrated self-titled Comedy Network show gave him only middling exposure. The show starts this winter on ABC.
THINGS THAT WILL ALWAYS BE FUNNY
BARRY JULIEN Why You Don’t Know Him: Because, as writer for The Colbert Report, he gets zero face time. Why You Should: We’ve long noticed with patriotic pride how often Real
Falling down The penis Cumquats Watching another man get hit in the groin Dog reaction shots
Flatulence Pandas doing anything Children cursing The elderly, when confused by modern innovations Bill Murray
Inappropriate. Consider re-wording. This is a family magazine.
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What about Radio? Teletype? More examples please!
Hacks. Consider revising.
Laughter is the best aphrodisiac? That’s been my experience, anyway…
I don't think this is a word. But I could be wrong.
You are never supposed to start a sentence with “but”. Not sure why but that is what I was told.
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THE HAPPENING (2008) M. Night Shyamalan’s thriller dares to ask the question that nobody was asking: what would happen if trees tried to kill us? It’s a thought almost as frightening as realizing we once believed Shyamalan was talented. BLOODSPORT (1988) Sure, Jean Claude Van Damme is synonymous with so-bad-it’s-good schlock. But Bloodsport, with its unbelievably bad dialogue, and montages set to ’80s music that perfectly describes what’s on screen, is the cream of the crap. The actual fight scenes are bonus. TROUBLE WITH THE CURVE (2012) Clint Eastwood attempts to win our hearts as an old-school baseball scout looking to reconnect with his estranged daughter in his twilight years, but comes off more like a cranky Mr. Magoo with an ailing prostate. At one point he has a “touching” one-way conversation with his wife's gravestone. Cue the empty chair jokes. – ANG
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A fine company! Maybe you should put this in bold?
THE WICKER MAN (2006) In this ill-advised remake of the British horror classic, director Neil LaBute loses control of Nicolas Cage early on, culminating in a scene with Cage in a bear costume, delivering haymakers to middle-aged housewives while screaming,“You bitches!”
Those were fat suits? Are you sure?
THE ROOM (2003) The idea is a simple, but the execution is spellbinding: Major plot points are inexplicably abandoned, painfully unerotic sex scenes last forever and lines are delivered with the charisma of a GPS voice navigator. An instant cult classic for the snarky set.
SUGAR SAMMY Why You Don’t Know Him: Because if you’ve ever heard his name, you likely thought he was a baseball player. Why You Should: Montrealnative Sugar Sammy may be Canada’s hottest—and funniest—standup comic. There’s a reason he was named one of the 10 rising comedic talents on the planet by the Hollywood Reporter. Sammy delivers like a mix between prebreakdown Dave Chappelle and pre-fat suit Eddie Murphy. Not bad.
STEVE PATTERSON Why You Don’t Know Him: Because he’s on the radio. Why You Should: Patterson took over as regular host of CBC’s The Debaters in 2008 and has made it his own. The show pits two standup comedians in a genuine debate—forced to take on contrarian viewpoints. As they mix fact and funny, absurdity usually ensues.
GERRY DEE Why You Don’t Know Him: Because you stopped listening to teachers at least 10 years ago. Why You Should: He was nominated for Canadian Comedy Person of the Year. Also Dee’s underrated sitcom, Mr. D., has been renewed for a second season on CBC, starting in January. He plays a teacher, a job he knows all about thanks to his pre-standup days.
PACKAGE DEAL Why You Don’t Know It: You don’t own a time machine. Why You Should: Torontoborn comedian Harland Williams and Nova Scotia’s Jay Malone—both accomplished standups and actors—will headline the upcoming, Citytv original series. It’s about three uncommonly close brothers (not named Jonas or Hanson) and the woman that comes between them. Think Legends of the Fall, minus all the sex, death and bear mauling.
CANADIAN THINGS THAT WILL NEVER NOT BE FUNNY
Newfoundland Standard Time Moose Jaw Stephen Harper’s Hair Toonies Lumberjacks
The Mackenzie Brothers John Candy Toonies Rick Moranis
So, like Legends of the Fall without all the good stuff.
F I V E UNINTENTIONA L LY F UN N Y MOVI E S SO ME FILMS A RE HILARI OU S F OR A L L T HE W RON G RE ASONS. NOT A LL OF T HE M STA R N I C CA G E .
Outrageous!
How women take longer to get ready vis a vis men Billy Crystal Fat suits Fruit cake-related anecdotes Borat
It’s no CBC...but...
Jokes about losing contact lenses Mullets The poor quality of airplane food Song parodies White men dancing poorly
Best thing here! This is writing at its finest: true, courageous, smart. Maybe move this up to the start of the article.
THINGS THAT WERE ONCE FUNNY, BUT AREN’T ANYMORE
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EAT HERE NOW
THE VEAL CHOP AT MONTREAL’S NORA GRAY
BEST NEW RESTAURANTS IN CANADA BY JOHN MARTIN MACDONALD
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here exist, we’re told, men who describe themselves, without irony, using the word “foodie.” No man worth his cassoulet should ever use that term. But that isn’t to say men shouldn’t enjoy their food. And thank god they do, because the recent demand for innovative, quality dining has given rise to the best restaurants this country has ever known. From nostalgic seafood to the best Italian this side of the Atlantic, here are some of the freshest restos on the block.
YOURS TRULY - TORONTO Jeff Claudio is one of the best young culinary talents in the country, training under household names like Thomas Keller and René Redzepi. Now, he is challenging expectations of just how creative a Toronto restaurant can be. The tasting menus at Yours Truly change daily and are broken down into a matter-of-fact list of ingredients which tickle the chef’s fancy on a given day (such as Monforte cheese and Kolapore Springs trout). Plates are delivered
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to your table by the chefs who prepared them (hence the name), but to begin to describe and capture the wide spectrum of courses produced every day would do a disservice to Claudio’s creative spontaneity. What we’re having: The Seabuck (gin, sea buckthorn tonic, grapefruit, spruce bitters) paired with anything a smiling Chef Claudio brings to the table. 229 OSSINGTON ST. 416-533-2243 YOURS-TRULY.CA
NORA GRAY - MONTREAL Chef Emma Carderelli and Ryan Gray met while working together at the exalted Petit Bourgogne institution Joe Beef, helping to run the front and back of house, respectively. The culinary result of their friendship is Nora Gray, a casual, innovative foray into northern Italian cuisine. Adorned with dark leather banquettes and rich wood finishes, the 45-seat room buzzes with creatives sipping eclectic vintages. The seasonal menu is full of complex and delicately rich offerings such as sea urchin risotto and stuffed rabbit loin. What we’re having: Wild mushroom cavatelli with chanterelles, veal jus, and parmesan, washed down with a superb glass of biodynamic Ruche (Italian varietal) from Piemonte. 1391 RUE ST.-JACQUES 514-419-6672 NORAGRAY.COM
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THE TRAVELING MAN: NYC’S LOWER EAST SIDE THE STALWART MANHATTAN NEIGHBOURHOOD IS BACK ON THE SCENE IN A BIG WAY. BY YANG-YI GOH
STAY:
THOMPSON LES Like the neighbourhood itself, the Thompson LES straddles a tenuous line between raw and refined, unkempt and upscale. Cement ceilings and strong, industrial lines serve as a canvas for urbane design elements: Lee Friedlander lightboxes, Ryan McGinness paintings and a Warhol graphic emblazoned across the floor of the rooftop pool.
1 THE FAT RADISH Understated elegance is the philosophy at play here, from the rustic raw wood and exposed brick interiors to the simple yet delicious interpretations of classic British cuisine. The sweet-pea pie served with crème fraiche sets the tone just so, before the delicate, impeccably grilled diver scallops—alongside fresh corn polenta and bacon jam—steal the show completely. THEFATRADISHNYC.COM
THOMPSONHOTELS.COM
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CHEEKY-SANDWICHES.COM
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nce a decaying corner of Manhattan whose best days— as a chaotic melting pot for recent immigrants and bohemian types—seemed long behind it, the Lower East Side has undergone a staggering renewal in recent years. Its idiosyncratic flavour and grit remain, bolstered by a slew of hip restaurants, rollicking bars and modish boutiques that have cropped up across the area. In fact, there’s more than enough in the LES to fill out your next NYC weekend.
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WD~50 The home base of wunderkind molecular gastronomist Wylie Dufresne, wd~50’s ever-evolving menu showcases a wildly inventive clash of flavours and textures that will simultaneously delight and confuse the hell out of your taste buds. It’ll be a meal you’ll never forget—even if you aren’t totally sure exactly what it is you’re eating.
THE MEATBALL SHOP Now a mini-empire of three locations (with two more on the way) and a cookbook, this is the location that started it all. Mix and match the innumerable options of inventive meatballs, zesty sauces and serving styles (with pasta, on a salad, in a sandwich), and don’t forget dessert: the homemade ice cream sandwiches are not to be missed.
WD-50.COM
THEMEATBALLSHOP.COM
P H OTO S : J OAQ U I N G R E G O R I O O F P O P B O P & S N A P ; A L L E N T U L LO S
CHEEKY SANDWICHES New Orleans-bred owner Din Yates brings a healthy dose of Cajun charisma and flavour to this amiable hole-in-thewall sandwich spot. Try the shrimp-and-oyster po’boy for some crispy, savoury goodness, or sample the braised beef, which comes on homemade challah bread with a dollop of horseradish. And make sure to save room for a few beignets (New Orleans’ famous minidoughnuts) for dessert.
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NASH BUILDING BRIDGES IN A CITY OF STARS, STEVE NASH STILL MAKES PEOPLE GO CRAZY BY DONNELL ALEXANDER
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ake no mistake: by June, inhabitants of planet Earth will be referring to Los Angeles’s most celebrated NBA franchise as if they were a doo wop band, as in “Dwight Howard and the Lakers.” The 26-year-old AllStar, known to some as Superman, is LA’s superstar in waiting— Shaq 2.0—apprenticing while Kobe Bryant begins his royal glide from on-court primacy. This is exciting and all, but it’s also strictly business. What’s really got the city of Los Angeles—from Santa Monica to Norwalk— buzzing is the arrival of former Phoenix Sun Steve Nash. Like, really excited.
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The growing Nash-mania is especially remarkable when you consider whom Captain Canada is competing with for the public’s attention. It’s not just other guys in shorts and sneakers. Upon his August arrival, before the Vancouverite’s effective shine could be compared to Kobe’s, the new guy stole headlines from the Dodgers’ Matt Kemp and the Angels’ Mike Trout. When USC’s Matt Barkley mounted his latest Heisman campaign, even then it was all-eyes-on-Steve. How’s LA feeling Nash this fall? To put his status in film biz terms, the Weinstein Company would not be disappointed if Quentin Tarantino’s Christmas release got local buzz as strong as Nash’s is now. The conversation about the Lakers and Nash isn’t just about the new guy’s Hall of Fame stats. Or because he’s 38 and deeper into Everyman Country than most NBA stars ever get. Or even because Nash is white, which—let’s face it—helps, even in LA. Nash couldn’t have landed his career better if he designed the trip himself. There are other reasons he’s deeply famous down there. As much as the city loves and frets over its top hoops franchise, the Lakers have been without a truly likeable face of the franchise since Kobe emerged brooding from the Colorado sexual assault accusation. And Howard turned most of the sporting press against him by toying with the Orlando Magic—Should I stay? Should I go?— for about a year. Then there’s swell guy Pau Gasol, who owns such a shocking record of playoff shrinkage that—independent of his awesome play this summer in London—serious Lakers fans get upset stomachs at crunch time. So, what’s not to like about Nash? More than just a two-time MVP, Nash is affable, selfdeprecating, and armed with an approachability and goodnatured sense of humour that most of his new, ego-ridden teammates just aren’t capable of. The other Lakers pop up in tabloids and reality TV shows; Nash makes goofy spoofs of movie trailers for his YouTube channel. Ultimately, what Nash has is the same thing that another great Lakers point guard—you know, that Magic guy—possessed. He’s someone who makes every player around him better. And that extends beyond the court. Nash is likeable, really likeable—that’s a rare trait in LA.
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SP EC S: B M W 7 50 LI XD R IV E POWERHOUSE: 4.4-litre twin-turbo V8 OUTPUT: 445 hp / 480 lb-ft of torque GEARBOX: 8-speed automatic PRICE: $120,200 AVAILABILITY: Now
figures on a flagship bimmer. The 7 Series fits right in. It’s essentially a polish of what was already one of the planet’s best full-size sedans, able to massage you, read aloud your wife’s grocery text, spot wayward pedestrians with infrared night vision and generally waft you along in total comfort and safety at well beyond legal speeds. BMW says the lack of cosmetic surgery on IN (THE FORMER) SOVIET RUSSIA, BMW’S the 2013 model belies the fact that no 7 since REVISED 7 SERIES DRIVES YOU. SORT OF. the car’s 1977 debut has seen more tweaks under BY BRADLEY HORN its sheet metal. This was a car hardly flawed ooming post-war America’s influence to begin with, but rivals like the Audi A8, rippled through not just foreign Mercedes S-Class and Lexus LS are always policy, but pop culture, fashion and present, always finding ways to become more the machines people wanted in their attractive to people like Russia’s glitterati. driveways. In those heady days, legends in As a result, this 7 Series is quieter and glass and steel like the gull-wing Mercedesmore powerful, technologically advanced, Benz SL, Porsche 356 Speedster and BMW luxurious and efficient than any previous 507 roadster were all born to satisfy the version. Chiefly, there are more powerful wants of moneyed Yanks. engines, ultra-smooth eight-speed gearboxes, Times change: financial implosions, a new iDrive infotainment system, digital political dissension and a dearth of exportable gauges and a 1,200-watt Bang & Olufsen pop culture mean America’s influence sound system. Onboard computers tell the on earthlings begins to erode. Places like big bimmer to behave like Ivan Drago or a China, Brazil, India and the Middle East are Moscow ballerina on the road, depending on increasingly flush with products, resources, what button you press. intelligence, sway and—more importantly— America’s influence on the luxury market liquidity. Russia, with its bumper crop of new may be waning, but as far as BMW’s new billionaires, is on that list, too. flagship is concerned, things have never It’s exactly why BMW invited us to St. been better for the world’s motoring elite. Petersburg to try its heavily revised 7 Series: this is not the Russia you know from 1980s VISIT SHARPFORMEN.COM action movies. This is a country with a FOR 7 MUST-KNOW THINGS ABOUT populace increasingly willing to drop six THE 2013 BMW 7 SERIES.
A BLUE-BLOOD SEDAN FOR THE NEW RULING CLASS
B
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A TRUCK FIT FOR A RUSSIAN OLIGARCH THE LATVIAN-MADE DARTZ USHERS IN A NEW BREED OF AUTOMOTIVE MACHISMO
The super-rich of Russia need transportation that is luxurious, ostentatious and heavily armoured. Sure, you can have your 7 Series bulletproofed, but that only ticks two of those boxes. Dartz is a small Latvian outfit building custom SUVs that make Hummers look like Power Wheels. The company’s eccentric founder/ owner Leonard F. Yankelovich claims Dartz was the firm Stalin turned to for his armoured cars (the thinking being that if they’re good enough for someone as unpopular as the former Soviet dictator, they’re good enough for anyone who can afford one). The latest model, claims Yankelovich, is nothing less than an all-new class of vehicle: BNUDS (a Bespoke Noble Urban Desert Safety vehicle). It’s called the Nagel Dakkar and it’s somewhere between an M1A1 Abrams tank and an off-road race truck. As such, you should be able to compete in the Baja 1000 one week and cruise the Côte d’Azur the next. The Nagel Dakkar starts at EUR 250,000. For that price, you get a Mercedes-Benz AMG V8 engine under the hood, with 650 horsepower and 626 lb-ft of torque, as well as exotic things like a titanium tube-frame chassis and a carbon-Kevlar exterior coating. Details on the Dartz’s interior have yet to be released, but given the fact that other Dartz models have featured built-in hot-tubs, wet bars, diamond-encrusted dials and whale-penis leather seating, you can expect the Nagel Dakkar will be like nothing else on the road. That 7 Series is looking pretty restrained now, isn’t it? – MB
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BURBERRY
THE QUILTED JACKET If the quilted jacket has a flaw, it’s the name. Despite this garment’s masculine origins—13th century European soldiers wore them into battle as armour—the “quilted” prefix calls to mind your grandmother’s favourite pastime. Get past the babyblanket epithet, though, and you’ve got yourself the perfect autumnal outerwear: warm but not bulky; casual but not sloppy; vaguely British in its appeal and charm. Wear yours over a thick wool crewneck sweater and it’ll keep you protected from autumn’s chill, but probably not from spears and lances. – YG
LONDON, $1,450
BARBOUR, $180
MACKINTOSH, $790 AT UNIONMADE
LAVENHAM, $195 VISIT SHARPFORMEN.COM
TO SEE THE LATEST MENSWEAR TRENDS FROM TORONTO FASHION WEEK.
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S T Y L E
D E N I M
THE SHARP GUIDE TO DENIM EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE BUYING YOUR NEXT PAIR
W
e hardly need to tell you this, but a great pair of jeans is the keystone of a man’s wardrobe, virtually on par with underwear on the necessity scale. In 2012, they remain the only garment that look just as at home on a dinner date as they do in a lumberyard. But finding the right denim can be more tedious than buying a new car, and raises at least as many questions: How should they fit? What’s the difference between a wash and a rinse? And what the hell is selvedge? Which is why we’ve created this primer to all things indigo and cotton, to get you into a new pair of dungarees as soon as possible.
DENIM LORE
WEAR AND REPA IR
“My clutter-averse dad always taught me that as soon as a piece of clothing gets a tear or rip or hole, no matter how small, it’s time to part ways. But thanks to my tree-trunkish thighs, I wear through and bust holes in my jeans with startling regularity. Unlike my pops, though, I can’t bear the thought of tossing out denim I’ve invested the better part of a year breaking in. Thankfully, I stumbled upon the reweaving geniuses at NYC’s Denim Therapy. You ship over your battered jeans, they reconstruct the original material using new cotton, and seal up any holes or splits for a reasonable $7 an inch. A couple of weeks later, the jeans land on your doorstep, ready to take another beating.” – Yang-Yi Goh, Fashion Editor
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Denim made in Japan is stronger and more beautiful than the best denim made anywhere else. Ironically, their quality comes from copping vintage American methods and machinery. If America had kept making jeans the way they used to, Japanese denim wouldn’t be so special. As it is, some Japanese denim makers worship vintage American jeans to the point that they’ll deconstruct century-old garments to see exactly how they were put together and buy up antique machines to weave textiles and chainstitch hems. Combined with a little modern-day innovation and experimentation—playing with different yarns and tensions to add character to the fabric—these producers are able to make denim that’s very nearly art. KAMIKAZE ATTACK ($270) AT TATE + YOKO
P H OTO : R O B E R T WATS O N ; ST Y L I N G : DA N I E L O N O R I F O R P L U T I N O G R O U P
WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH JAPANESE DENIM?
S T Y L E
R AW :
This is denim in its purest form: rigid and uniformly dark. Enthusiasts will often go months without washing their raw denim, allowing the jeans to develop a rich, distinctive patina that reflects the ins and outs of the wearer’s day-to-day life. R INSED:
NAKED & FAMOUS ($160)
A touch lighter than its raw cousin, rinsed denim is washed once to sidestep any initial stiffness and to lock in the indigo dye, so it will retain its deep colour for longer. It’s a good option for those who aim for simplicity in their look. M ED IU M :
WALLACE & BARNES FOR J.CREW ($290)
Although distressed denim has been given a bad name thanks to all the bros who bejewel their t-shirts, it’s still possible to find a pair of pre-faded jeans that are understated and tasteful. Look for a pair with natural, low-contrast fading and as few details as possible—no unnecessary pocket flaps or embroidered patches allowed. LIGH T :
WINGS + HORNS ($265) AT NOMAD
It took some doing, but stonewashed denim has shaken off the grungy stigma of the early ’90s— not to mention the more recent setback of Obama’s “dad jean” frumpiness—and re-emerged as an off-duty staple. Their breezy, broken-in nature makes them an obvious companion for a sweatshirt and canvas sneakers, but can double as a debonair contrast to a crisp dress shirt and blazer.
D IST R ESSED O U T
DENIM LORE LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING ($265) AT NOMAD
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A WO R D O N WASH ING Denim nerds preach all sorts of crazy techniques for washing jeans: wearing them into the ocean; rinsing them in rainwater; soaking them in the bathtub with a cup of vinegar. But the only method worth your time is about as simple and straightforward as they come.
Go for as long as possible without washing your jeans to preserve their original colour and fit (or, in the case of raw denim, to allow them enough time to break in).
Turn them inside out, then machine-wash on cold. If your jeans are dark indigo, use Woolite Black to help prevent colour loss.
Hang dry. Machine drying will not only shrink your jeans significantly, but can also destroy the fabric and leave crease marks along the legs.
“You could say I dislike distressed denim, but it would be more accurate to say I have an ethical objection to it. Buying a pair of distressed jeans—jeans with the signs of years of hard wear already on them—is akin to taking a taxi to the finish line of a marathon. You can do it, but it doesn’t mean you should. Not only is it cheating, in my opinion, it’s also totally unnecessary. One of my favourite things about denim is the way it wears in to my body and way of life, eventually becoming like a second skin—as all of my favourite jeans have. They start out crisp and dark, then slowly acquire whiskers and creases, with the outlines of my wallet and phone in the back pockets. It’s a thing of beauty that comes with the satisfaction of knowing I did it myself.” – Jeremy Freed, Editor-in-Chief
P H OTO : R O B E R T WATS O N ; ST Y L I N G : DA N I E L O N O R I F O R P L U T I N O G R O U P
WASHES
D E N I M
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H E R O E S
O F
M E N S W E A R
ST YLE-WISE, WHAT ’S THE FIRST THING YOU THINK WHEN YOU GET UP IN THE MORNING?” To be honest, the first thing I think in the morning is usually that I need to walk my dog. I don’t think about style that much. I’m kind of neurotic about wearing the same thing, my Acne jeans or whatever. I didn’t think about style at all until I was in my late twenties. I just used to wear the same jeans and t-shirts. WHAT DO YOU SEE A S THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN NORTH AMERIC AN AND EUROPEAN ST YLE? I think it goes in cycles as far as who’s setting the trends. It’s not like it’s always New York or London, it can come from Japan or Spain or wherever, but New York and London are such kindred spirits for music, fashion and art. They chug along next to each other. When I was a kid in the 80s and I first moved to New York, it was a little bit different. New York was all about hip-hop, and that was definitely different from what I’d had in England. So, when I was growing up, I felt more marked differences between the two musically. I think that I’m fortunate to have that sort of New York, hip-hop upbringing and those more eccentric, eclectic indie-dance English influences.
HEROES OF MENSWEAR MARK RONSON, PRODIGIOUS TASTEMAKER— AND FAMOUSLY WELL-DRESSED MAN—ADDS BASE NOTES TO HIS BEATS BY LUKE LANGSDALE
R
onson, best known as a producer of groundbreaking artists like Amy Winehouse and Rufus Wainwright, grew up in the UK and went to high school in New York City. He’s the product of both continents, but more than that, like everyone in his generation, he’s the product of a fragmented and diverse set of interests, from hip-hop to Brit pop and onward. These days, it’s no longer surprising to have an eclectic pop culture background. It’s normal to ingest everything. It’s what he does with that normalcy—makes music, influences style—that is extraordinary. We met up with Ronson—who is routinely the best-attired man in the room—in Milan for the launch of Fendi’s new fragrance, Fan Di Fendi. The official face of the scent, Ronson is adding yet another string to his bow: DJ, producer, video director, solo artist, businessman, record company founder, model and now fragrance spokesperson. What else would you expect from a 21st-century renaissance man?
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HOW HA S MUSIC INFLUENCED YOUR ST YLE OVER THE YEARS? I can look at any picture of myself from the age of 13 on and know what my favourite album was, or what I was listening to at the time. Dressing like I lived in Manchester through the era of the Happy Mondays and Stone Roses, even though I was only 13 years old and never would have been allowed into a club, or when I was dressing with the Pumas and fat laces trying to impersonate the Beastie Boys, or whatever else I did. When you’re young, you only associate yourself with one style and that becomes your identity, but as you get older, the lines dissipate. I think with music, as it is in fashion for me, you take the influences of the different things you love, and you combine those things in a way that it all becomes totally your own. You and I could listen to The Beatles, Sly and the Family Stone, Nas and Daft Punk, and they could be our four favourite influences, yet we may make completely different music. The way you hear and interpret them would be different from the way anyone else would. Like you watch Wes Anderson films and they’re so stylized and brilliant, but I’m not going to suddenly start dressing like an Upper East Side New York preppy, yet somehow those things filter in, you know?
R O NSO N’S GR EAT EST ST YLE H IT S The classic Ronson look: audaciously patterned suit, neon shirt, sky-high pompadour.
Doubling down on classic British style with a tweedy trench.
A ruffled shirt and billowing hanky give this formal attire some nonchalant flair.
Mixing up the doublebreasted suit with a geometric shirt.
A SHARP GROOMING GUIDE
Men of a
20
CERTAIN AGE 30
40
50+
HOW TO LOOK BETTER AS YOU GET OLDER
We rule the earth as gods, but we are but men. And as such, we aren’t getting any younger. While we technically are the same people we were in our 20s, more and more our bodies don’t act like it. But, you know what? Who cares. Looking good and aging aren’t mutually exclusive (See: Clooney, George). That doesn’t mean ignoring the clock, it just means adjusting your grooming regimen as it ticks away. Here’s how to look your best, at every stage of life, from your university convocation to your grandkids’.
Alas,
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ONWARD TO
REGIMEN
A SHARP GROOMING GUIDE
THE
Face
20 If you’re not this guy now, you were at some point: resourceful, professionally insignificant but motivated, sartorially carefree but smart. The baseball cap only comes out on the occasional weekend. You are the epitome of the young professional. So what if you’re just an unpaid intern? You’re better looking than the boss and he knows it! You know style is a skill to be honed, and you’re getting better. And while you upgrade your wardrobe, you’ll want to upgrade your grooming habits as well. THE LAST HAIR PRODUCT YOU’LL BUY:
GRANT’S GOLDEN POMADE Stronger than your typical pomade, but more pliable than gels, waxes, or (heaven forbid) mousses, Grant’s Golden Pomade is a perfect blend of easygoing scent—in this case, a Hawaiian coconut—with on-the-move versatility. Use on damp, nearly dry hair for results that transcend slickness and go right to sophisticated. [$25]
Hair
Try out a few different hairstyles while you’re young, before you’re forced by the confines of your corporate gig to keep it conservative, and before you go grey. For longer hair, use a good bristled brush, like the Kent MS23 Hair Brush [$70], instead of a comb to avoid unwanted bumps and rises in your coif.
Skin
A body wash like Pure Impact For Men Shower Gel by Nivea [$10] is convenient and will keep you clean and smelling good in that refreshing, packaged-masculine way. It has just the right amount of exfoliant to invigorate the skin without washing feeling like a chore.
Body ALSO...
Get in the habit of taking your health seriously. You’re spending most of your day at a desk. “Your 20s is one of the times that people gain a lot of weight,” according to fitness expert Kathleen Trotter. “They go from being a fairly active youth to taking a sitting, nine-to-five job. It’s really important to establish the healthy habits; creating those health habits that will stay with you for the rest of your life.”
• Find a sport you actually enjoy doing. We recommend racquetball. • Walk. • Remember that your metabolism isn’t what it used to be, Mr. Hotpocket.
MAN AT 20 CONTINUES
Dr. Mike Moreno, author of The 17-Day Plan to Stop Aging, says one of the good habits to start is taking a good multivitamin. The best kind: pre-natal vitamins: they have everything you’ll need, ever. We were shocked, too.
Man at:
Now is the time in your life to experiment with your facial hair. Never again will certain ironic, creative facial flourishes be permitted. Let your beard grow out. Grow a ’stache. Flirt with a goatee. You’re going to need a good electric razor to trim and define your many trial looks. For this, we recommend the Braun cruZer Face [$70], with an adjustable-length trimmer and full-size shaving head. Your daily routine should also include an exfoliating face wash like The Real Shaving Co.’s Daily Face Wash [$10]—use it pre-shave to unblock pores, remove blackheads, and loosen up your facial hair.
SPE D at the
edge of the world
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FREAKS
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Behind the scenes of Skyfall, the Bond A AG SHARP M movie that almost never was.
BEHIND THE SCENES OF SKYFALL, THE BOND MOVIE THAT ALMOST NEVER WAS.
PLUS: AN EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH DANIEL CRAIG 00106 - SHARPFORMEN.COM
Jane Crowther / Total Film, Future Publishing Limited / The Interview People
50 years of 007
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THE BOND GIRL HAS BECOME FAR MORE THAN EYE CANDY. BUT NOT THAT MUCH MORE.
It’s
impossible to say if producer Cubby Broccoli knew the cultural icon he was creating when he had Ursula Andress make her dazzling entrance in Dr. No. Fifty years later, the franchise is as famous for the stunning women who’ve graced it with their feminine charms as it is for agent 007 himself. Here are a few of the most memorable.
NAME: NATIONALITY: Swiss CHARACTER: Honey Ryder FILM: Dr. No (1962) WEAPON OF CHOICE: Diving knife MOST MEMORABLE SCENE: Rising out of the Caribbean Sea in a white bikini, she set the bar for all subsequent Bond girls. CAUSE OF DEATH: N/A, though the radioactive material she came into contact with probably didn’t make her any healthier.
NAME: Luciana Paluzzi NATIONALITY: Italian CHARACTER: Fiona Volpe FILM: Thunderball (1965) MOST MEMORABLE SCENE: When 007 discovers her in the bath, she demands something to put on. Bond hands her shoes. Sly devil. CAUSE OF DEATH: Accidentally killed by one of her evil companions, an assassin sent to shoot Bond. Women, always getting in the way. 00112 - SH ARPFORMEN.COM
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by Brendan Christie
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A AG S H A R P MSHARP — NOVEMBER 2012
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THE CARS, THE WATCHES, THE JETPACKS: HOW TO LIVE THE LIFE OF A GLOBE-TROTTING SUPER SPY (WITHOUT HAVING TO SAVE THE WORLD)
It’s
been 50 years since Bond first taught moviegoing men how to save the world, bed foreign beauties and order a martini. It is only natural to ask: why has Bond survived so long? It’s obvious that something about this character resonates with men—and we suppose women, too—but what is it? The simple answer, of course, is that in saving the world, bedding women, and drinking all those martinis while never losing his composure, he represents everything that men would like to be. Any number of fictional characters get the girl while saving the world, but no one is studying the Die Hard films for pointers on manliness. It’s how Bond mixes badassery with luxury, charisma with competence. Like everything else that’s popular these days, he’s a perfect combination of classic manliness and modern refinement. Plus, we mentioned the women, right? So, we ask: what would it take to be Bond? One can look the part with a bespoke Tom Ford suit, but that’s only part of the story. It’s not a simple (or inexpensive) task. We’ve crunched the (spoiler-free) numbers: no one said being a secret agent was going to be easy.
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Behind the scenes of Skyfall, the Bond movie that almost never was.
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BEING BOND
SHARP - NOVEMBER 2012
WEIGHTY MATTERS
SUITING UP IN SUBZERO CLIMES MEANS STICKING T O H E A V Y, H A R D Y, W A R M AS-HELL WOOLS. ACTOR G A B R I E L M AC H T S H OW S Y OU H OW T O R O C K T H E S E A S O N ’ S B E S T. B E C A U S E I F A N Y O N E C A N, I T ’ S T H E G U Y F R O M S U I T S . photographer: matthew doyle stylist: alvaro salazar for agent oliver
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The extra fabric in a waistcoat gives you license to go loud with punchy, brash shirts and ties.
the The latest generation of technical outerwear is functional enough for scaling the Swiss Alps, but stylish enough for everyday life.
Stylist: LUKE LANGSDALE Photographer: ROSS WOODHALL Shot on location in SAAS-FEE, SWITZERLAND
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Ventile jacket ($650) by Nike Sportswear; wool turtleneck ($430) by Paul Smith; cotton chinos ($180) by J.Lindeberg; wool socks ($20) by L.L.Bean; suede boots ($170) by Stone Island; waterproof duffle bag ($180) by Stone Island; down parka ($1,070, in bag) by Woolrich John Rich & Bros.
·NOVEMBER 2012
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OUR HIGHLY SCIENTIFIC RANKING OF THINGS THAT DO AND DO NOT DESERVE YOUR ATTENTION N UE FL IN
Th e th hol at id H A ev ay L L er th O y a W ca pro t pr E E n fes ov N be s es se ion xy .
RANK & FILE
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