THE
LOOK BETTER, FEEL BETTER, KNOW MORE ISSUE F E AT U R I N G
THE SHARP GUIDE TO LO O K B E T T E R • F E E L B E T T E R • K N OW M O R E NOVEMBER 2014
SHARPMAGAZINE.COM
CHRIS PINE
HERO, VILLAIN,
EVERYMAN
EAT LIKE A KING CAVIAR DONUTS,
&
GOLD-PLATED POPCORN
HOW TO BRING BACON TO WORK
THE ULTIMATE WINTER JACKET
AND SOME PRETTY GREAT BOOTS, TOO
EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT YOUR HEALTH ( BUT WEREN’T DRUNK ENOUGH TO ASK )
$5.95 DISPLAY UNTIL NOVEMBER 21, 2014
HAIR 17 WAYS TO P LUS
GET FIT
NOW AND
LIFE CHANGING
ADVICE FROM:
RYAN GOSLING
CHRIS HADFIELD
JON HAMM& CONRAD BLACK
CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2014 | VOL.7 | ISSUE 5
FEATURES 108
WHEN CHRIS PINE WINS, WE ALL WIN Starship captain, comedic villain, singing prince—although Chris Pine is a lot of things to a lot of people he remains completely relatable.
112
REASONS TO LOVE LAUREN COHAN Is it possible to look incredibly sexy while talking about killing zombies? The Walking Dead heroine proves that, yes, yes it is.
LAUREN COHAN pg.112
136
MALE PATTERN BOLDNESS Corey Stoll—whom you’ve seen in House of Cards, The Strain and this fall’s This Is Where I Leave You—works hard to look this good.
144
THE OUTER LIMITS Peerless winter coats to keep you going through the season’s icy depths.
ISSUE
118
124
130
HOW TO GET FIT NOW
THE SHARP GUIDE TO HAIR
MEN WORTH LISTENING TO
Looking and feeling your best isn’t as hard as you may think. Here’s how to make it even easier.
How to grow it, groom it and, yes, lose it. Here is everything you need to know to look your best from the top down.
Collected wisdom from Ryan Gosling, Chris Hadfield and Conrad Black, among many others.
22 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
P H O T O : A R I M I C H E LS O N
THE LOOKBETTER, BETTER LOOK FEEL BETTER FEEL BETTER, KNOW MORE KNOW MORE ISSUE THE
CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2014 | VOL.7 | ISSUE 5
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58
70
80
Jaime Murray plays an alien in Defiance, but we prefer her au naturel.
Caviar donuts, gilded popcorn and the recipe for the perfect working lunch.
Are our jobs killing us? Is recreational Viagra dangerous? Our doctor explains.
Get winter-ready with boots, blacked-out timepieces and technical jackets.
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72
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Denis Johnson’s gritty new thriller is equal parts Coen brothers and John le Carré.
Aperitifs and digestifs: they’re what’s before (and after) dinner.
Overhaul your living space with these sleek, contemporary pieces.
This winter you will exfoliate and smell fantastic.
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64
96
The New Pornographers are happy to be middle-class rock stars.
Berlin has more to offer than ever for the discerning traveler.
From drifting on the Arctic Circle to owning a perfectly restored Aston Martin, three new ways to love your car.
WOMEN
FOOD
BOOKS
HEALTH
VICES
MUSIC
STYLE
DESIGN
GROOMING
TRAVEL
CARS
54
FILM
104
Robin Williams’ obituary, Al Pacino and the sad decline of the leading man.
Learning to skate with the help of a four-year-old.
FATHERHOOD
COREY STOLL pg.136
STANDARDS 16
EDITOR’S LETTER
22
LETTERS
24 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
28
MAN ABOUT TOWN
140
BRAND DIRECTORY
142
RANK & FILE
P H O T O : M AT T B A R N E S . W O O L C O AT ( $ 4 ,1 5 0 ) B Y S A I N T L A U R E N T, AT H O LT R E N F R E W ; W O O L S U I T ( $ 2 ,4 1 5 ) A N D W O O L- A N G O R A S W E AT E R ( $ 1,2 6 0 ) B Y G I V E N C H Y, AT H O LT R E N F R E W.
GUIDE
EXCLUSIVELY AT SHARPMAGAZINE.COM SHARPMAGAZINE.COM is now better than ever. It’s still the best place for you to satisfy all your Sharp cravings between issues: the latest in style, cars, gear and culture. More streamlined, with more stories, interviews and amazing photography, more often. Here are some new features you can look forward to.
THE DAILY 5
EDITOR’S PICK
THE MANUAL
Because last time we checked, the Internet is pretty large. The Daily 5 is our quotidian collection of the most outrageous, entertaining and interesting things we find online.
Because we have our fingers on the pulse of what’s cool in the realms of style, automotive, tech, celebrity and culture, each day, a Sharp editor selects a product or event you should be aware of. It’s your direct line to Sharp HQ.
The MANual is our guide to how to do everything better, and it’s now online. Need to know how to open a bottle of wine without a corkscrew? We’ve covered it. Need to execute a barrel roll in a fighter jet? We’ll show you how to do that, too.
STREET STYLE
THE SHARP LIST
We hit the streets to find the best-dressed men for our Street Style section. Show us your style on Instagram using the hashtag #SharpestMan.
We know you like beautiful, luxurious and well-made stuff. The Sharp List is a compilation of the best and latest luxury, tech, cars and style items on a daily basis. Think of it as a neverending wish list.
A WOMAN YOU SHOULD MEET
T WIT TER @SHARPMAG A ZINE
FACEBOOK /SHARPFORMEN
26 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
I N STAG R A M @ S H A RP M AG A Z I N E
We like Fridays for many reasons, but mainly because we get to introduce you (via photos and quotes—not in person, sorry) to a beautiful, talented woman we know.
TUMBLR S H A R P M AG A Z I N E .T U M B L R .C O M
YOUTUBE / SHARPMAG A ZINE
SHARP | MAN ABOUT TOWN
SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL WINTER 2014 LAUNCH EVENT Canada’s premiere men’s event, the Sharp: The Book for Men launch party, drew an invitation-only crowd of celebrities, VIPs and tastemakers to the Shangri-La in downtown Toronto for the ultimate celebration of men’s style and contemporary luxury. Guests to the exclusive event—including Toronto Maple Leafs Jonathan Bernier and James van Riemsdyk and TFC’s Dwayne De Rosario—were greeted at the hotel’s portecochère by new vehicles from Lexus, including the sporty IS F sedan. Once inside, invitees were treated to an array of premium spirits including drams of Talisker Storm and custom
P H O T O : K E V I N G O N S A LV E S
CONTINUED ON P.34
32 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
GUIDE | Women
A WELCOME INTRODUCTION
Jaime Murray
LOOKS GOOD IN WHITE BY BIANCA TEIXEIRA
>
P H O T O : M AT T S AY L E S
WE AREN’T AMONG those disingenuous, condescending men who claim that they prefer women who don’t wear any makeup. Like bespoke suits and pomade, makeup exists for a reason. But there’s a limit. As an alien living on Earth in the sleeper Shatnerapproved hit Defiance, Jaime Murray sits through an intricate makeup process where her entire body is painted clown white. “They’ve got it down to two hours now, which sounds like a long time for a normal person,” she explains. The stuff gets on everything. And while she still, somehow, looks pretty good as an alien, the paint makes her damn near untouchable. “We’ve started to do this thing where we hiss at each other like cats. We’ll kind of circle each other and walk in close and smell each other.” Which wouldn’t be a bad way to spend time with Jaime, as long as she’s not wearing that makeup.
44 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
GUIDE | Culture
psych-pop bursts (title track) to hair-raising New Wave trips (“Champions of Red Wine”), the record continues the group’s 15-year run as indie’s most unimpeachable collective. Take that, Broken Social Scene. Considering the fruitful solo careers of the individual Pornographers (see: Neko Case, Dan Bejar), it’s a wonder they haven’t crashed and burned. After all, burning bright before crashing and burning is basically what supergroups are supposed to do. “It’s shocking we’re still around,” says Newman. “I can’t believe we’ve outlived all these other indie rock bands. When I realize Mass AND THEY HAVE A NEW, POLITE ALBUM TO PROVE IT Romantic came out 14 years ago, I think, ‘Holy shit!’ BY ALEX NINO GHECIU Though, maybe that’s because the Pornographers—despite enjoying critical success and having a loyal fan base on IF YOU ARE THE TYPE THAT READS, let alone believes, both sides of the border—have never been a freak, chartpublicist-provided press for upcoming albums—and, yes, busting success. that basically boils down to superfans, media types and “I call us the rock ’n’ roll middle class,” says Newman. superfans in the media—you’ll be ready to herald The New “The musicians that nobody really thinks about. Everybody Pornographers’ latest album, Brill Bruisers, “a celebration knows about rock stars and starving musicians, but nobody record.” It’s a neat idea, but that’s mostly hype. It’s honest really knows about us. We’re just here paying our morthype, sure, but still hype. gages. Paying the bills.” “It was something I was quoted as saying, which wasn’t It’s been the secret to their longevity. Whereas famed rock really accurate,” says A.C. Newman, de facto leader of stars often soar high and fall fast, the Pornos manage to avoid the Canadian indie supergroup, over the phone from his such Icarus-like collapse. Brooklyn home. “We didn’t explode to the point that we represented a parBut you can’t blame his publicist for stretching things (it’s ticular point in time, like The Strokes represented 2001,” says what they do!) because sexy rock ’n’ roll backstory—the kind Newman. “But we’re not locked into playing a character from a that can be sold to journalists—has never been the Pornos’ particular time and place. It means we can just steadily go on.” forte. They’re too Canadian for that kind of thing. That in itself is a cause for celebration—a word Newman “We don’t have any Bob Dylan/Jack White/Bon Iver type eventually admits does describe the record. Kind of. myth about us,” admits Newman. “We’re just a bunch of peo“It’s not celebratory like ‘Walking on Sunshine.’ It’s celple. All we can do is point at our record and say, ‘Isn’t it good?’” ebratory in terms of, ‘I’m still here, and that’s pretty good.’” And it is. Boasting 13 nuggets of whimsical, unadulterCanadian rock gods, ladies and gentlemen: epic music, ated sugar rock, Brill Bruisers sees The New Pornographers humble as hell. at their most carefree and, well, celebratory. From dizzying
The New Pornographers Are the Gods of Canadian Rock
52 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
GUIDE | Food
It’s Time to Pack a Better Lunch THE SHARP SANDWICH CHALLENGE BY BIANCA TEIXEIRA
TOO OFTEN, proximity is the only criterion used to answer the eternal conundrum of what to eat for lunch. There’s that sushi place nearby, or there’s probably pizza. But you can do better. We challenged one of our favourite chefs, Miheer Shete (winner of Chopped Canada, whose Toronto restaurant, Bannock, happens to be within walking distance of Sharp HQ) to make a lunch with a little more substance. Namely, it had to be filling, easy to prepare and more delicious than it had any right to be, given how healthy it is. So, here’s a good lunch option for you, which can easily be made at home if you’re not lucky enough to work in the neighbourhood (or city, or province).
INGREDIENTS Sandwich: • 2 pieces of whole wheat bread • Sliced smoked turkey breast • 1 full zucchini • Salt • Pepper • Balsamic vinegar • 3–4 strips of maple bacon • Black kale • 1 sliced tomato Avocado Cottage Cheese spread: • 1/2 ripe avocado • 4 tsp cottage cheese • Chili flakes
DIRECTIONS: 1. Lay the bacon on a tray and cook it in the oven at 400 F until the fat is rendered and golden brown. Once the bacon is crispy, pull it out of the oven, brush it with some maple syrup and let it cool. 2. Scoop out the avocado and mix with the cottage cheese in a bowl. Sprinkle chili flakes to desired level of spice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 3. Toast the bread. 4. Apply the avocado and cottage cheese spread onto the bread. 5. Layer on thinly sliced smoked turkey, sliced tomatoes, maple bacon and black kale (washed, stemmed and dried). 6. Grate the zucchini in a bowl, season it with salt, pepper, olive oil and a touch of balsamic vinegar. Mix and add to sandwich.
C
Why It’s Healthy: Cottage cheese, in addition to being high in protein, has a lower amount of calories per gram than any other type of cheese. Why It’s Delicious: The interplay of sweet bacon and tart balsamic complements the creamy avocado. Also: bacon.
THE MACALLAN INVITES YOU TO RISE TO THE OCCASION! Sharp Magazine is pleased to bring our readers an exclusive opportunity to try The Macallan 1824 Series single-malt Scotch whiskies. This innovative series of four unique expression—Gold, Amber, Sienna and Ruby—is redefining the way whisky is made and enjoyed. Join Sharp for an event not to be missed. Coming to a city near you: Victoria, October 23; Edmonton, October 30; Toronto, November 12 & 13. 58 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM 2014 VISIT SHARP MAGAZINE/ NOVEMBER ON FACEBOOK FOR REGISTRATION INFO
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
PHOT0: NICOLE BREANNE HUDSON
Turkey & Zucchini Slaw Sandwich
GUIDE | Vices
THE BASICS
Enjoyable both in cocktails and on their own, here are a few to keep on your bar.
Before and after APERITIFS AND DIGESTIFS: AN INTRODUCTION AND CONCLUSION TO DINNER BY COLEMAN MOLNAR
Aperitif (app-air-ee-teef )
The Opener: sweet, dry, 15 to 25 per cent ABV
Digestif (dee-jes-teef )
The Closer: bitter or sweet, 17 to 45 per cent ABV
WHILE COMMONPLACE AT STATE DINNERS AND A way of life in Europe, aperitifs and digestifs are perpetually relegated to the far reaches of a drink menu, ignored in favour of the current plethora of mixologist-created cocktails. But that doesn’t mean they’re stuffy or boring. Aperitifs and digestifs are equally worthy of a place on your bar. The aperitif is the drink equivalent of an amuse-bouche. It is designed to open up the palate and whet the appetite. Comparatively, digestifs, like dessert, come after the main course. Generally speaking, aperitifs are sweeter and drier, with less alcohol in them than digestifs. Which may seem backwards. But it’s the pleasantly bitter tang of the digestif that helps balance the sweet notes of your dessert. Tradition dictates that digestifs are usually taken straight up, but there are plenty of other ways to go about it, too. We asked a couple of our favourite bartenders to put together some options. Enjoy your dinner and save room for dessert— and a drink to accompany it. 62 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
APEROL: Aperitif ORIGIN: Italy INGREDIENTS: Bitter orange, rhubarb, licorice, clover TASTE: Light, sweet by way of bitter HOW TO DRINK IT: On ice, with a splash of soda and a twist of orange. APERITIF:
Werewolf Pugia
From Robin Kaufman, Toronto Temperance Society 1.5 oz Aperol .5 oz Wild Turkey Rye .75 oz lemon juice .25 oz simple syrup 1 cucumber wheel Muddle cucumber and simple syrup in shaker. Add remaining ingredients and ice. Shake, then strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with skewered cucumber ribbon.
CYNAR: Aperitif or digestif ORIGIN: Italy INGREDIENTS: Artichoke, plus 13 other botanicals TASTE: Rich, herbal and bittersweet HOW TO DRINK IT: Substitute for bitters in classic cocktails like a Manhattan.
DIGESTIF:
El Matador
From Cooper Tardivel, Hawksworth Restaurant, Vancouver 1.5 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon .75 oz Cynar .5 oz Taylor LBV Port Splash (5 ml) Cointreau 3 dashes Pernod Absinthe Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with ice. Stir and strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish by squeezing fresh lemon oil over the surface.
TAYLOR LBV PORT: Digestif ORIGIN: Portugal INGREDIENTS: Grapes TASTE: Rich with notes of fig, chocolate and spice HOW TO DRINK IT: Needs no accompaniment. Decant, pour and sip with the gravitas it deserves.
T H E B A LV E N I E
& SHARP
raftsmen C Series The
LESSONS IN ARTISTRY F ROM TORONTO'S FINEST ARTISANS
T
here has never been a better
time to celebrate Canadian craftsmen. While Canada has always produced its share of world-leading products, the 21st century has seen a return to the kind of small-scale craftsmanship that our grandfathers would have recognized and appreciated. Unconcerned with fleeting trends or disposable fads, these men have dedicated themselves to creating products with quality, timelessness and tradition foremost in mind. This is the mark of a true craftsman. Who: Michael Nguyen Craft: Tailor Company: Garrison Bespoke Location : The Financial District, Toronto, Canada On the team of Canadian men’s fashion, Michael Nguyen is starting point guard. He’s been creating bespoke suits from his shop, Garrison Bespoke in downtown Toronto, for close to a decade. A second-generation tailor, Nguyen has made a name for himself by his attention to detail, personalized service and unbridled enthusiasm for his work. As a result, his client list includes leaders in Canadian business, sports and entertainment (Drake is a fan, as are the Maple Leafs). This year Nguyen opened a bespoke groomsmen’s boutique— the first of its kind in North America.
Who: Andre Jr. Ayotte & Mackenzie Duncan Craft: Carpenters Company: JM and Sons Location: Roncesvalles, Toronto, Canada Andre Jr. Ayotte and Mackenzie Duncan are true 21st-century lumberjacks, creating rugged furniture that speaks to their heritage. Long-time friends who conceived their furniture company while trekking together through the Icelandic wilderness, they celebrate the best materials Canada has to offer in their work. Hewn from reclaimed wood and mounted to minimalist steel frames, their furniture presents the ruggedness of the Canadian wilderness alongside a decidedly refined, urban aesthetic.
GUIDE | Design
1
2
A Man’s Home
3
CONTEMPORARY STYLE FOR THE MOST IMPORTANT ROOMS IN YOUR PLACE BY JEREMY FREED
>
A MAN’S HOME COMES TOGETHER AS his life does, reflecting his tastes, means and influences as they grow and evolve. The pleasure of a well-curated room is something that must be felt to be fully understood—at its best, it’s a respite from the chaos of the world outside. In pursuit of this, we’ve assembled some of our favourite pieces for the most important rooms in your home. The prevailing mix of mid-century and contemporary, and the combination of smooth metal with textured cowhide and woodgrain make for an eclectic look that’s both comfortable and refined.
LIVING ROOM
The perfect living room is about more than just a big TV and a comfortable place to sit (but it needs those things, too, obviously).
4
1. THE STORAGE UNIT
Cut through the clutter and hide your stuff with a simple credenza. This one is handmade from claro walnut and bleached maple. $9,200 AT JEFF MARTIN JOINERY
2. THE RUG
Leave the bearskin to Roger Moore and opt for something more contemporary (and less creepy) to tie the room together. $970 AT DESIGN WITHIN REACH
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3. THE SOFA
The central piece in any living room set-up. It should be comfy enough for daily use without overwhelming the space. The Hiroshima Sofa in grey felt by Naoto Fukasawa accomplishes both. $4,750 AT MJÖLK
4. THE TV
When it comes to TVs, bigger is better. If you had any doubt of this, behold Bang & Olufsen’s
massive new 85-inch, ultraHD 4K screen, with built-in 8-speaker surround sound. Not only does it create a remarkably crisp picture and crystal clear sound, its optional motorized stand tucks the TV discreetly back against the wall when not in use, unfolding back to the ideal viewing angle at the touch of a button. $26,120
A PERONI WITH...
JAKE ROSENBERG & DANIEL TORJMAN AT BAR BUCA IN TORONTO
I
n this instalment of Sharp and Peroni’s multi-part series on Canadian trendsetters, we connected two successful Torontonian cultural luminaries and got them talking about style, travel and Canada’s place on the world stage. Both men are fixtures in the Canadian fashion scene—Jake Rosenberg is a founder of The Coveteur and Daniel Torjman is the creative director of 18 Waits—and they are emissaries to the rest of the world through their work.
YOU GUYS ARE BOTH WORKING ON INTERNATIONAL BRANDS THAT ARE PROUD TO BE CANADIAN. WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE A CANADIAN PRODUCT? DT: I don’t try to design Canadian clothing, but I think it’s informed our sensibilities and that’s what it’s about. Quality crafted in Canada. There’s a lot of history and culture and talent in this country. JR: It’s funny, Canadians definitely recognize the Coveteur as being Canadian, but outside of Canada most people automatically assume
we’re in New York. Once they do find out we’re from Canada, it’s almost as if they like it even more. YOU BOTH TRAVEL A LOT TO THE US. DO YOU PREFER LA OR NEW YORK? JR: I prefer LA because I’m more of a West Coast personality. In New York, after 10 days, I’m ready to have a little breathing room. I love having the mountains and the ocean right there. I came from more of an outdoorsy lifestyle, guiding hiking trips and canoe trips. It’s definitely a different world, but I’ve learned a lot. I
11.14
LOOK BET TER • FEEL BET TER • KNOW MORE
ECCO
COMEBACK KINGS CHELSEA BOOTS WERE FIRST CONCEIVED IN THE 1840s—designed, allegedly, by Queen Victoria’s personal shoemaker—but didn’t truly hit their apex until more than a century later, when the Beatles and the Stones began rocking them on the regular. Since their days as the toast of Swinging London, though, the boots have fallen on hard times. Despite a few attempted revivals in recent years, these sleek and sculptural slip-ons have mostly been sitting on the sidelines, waiting for another chance to shine. That time has arrived, and this flawless pair from ECCO is the one you need now. They’re tough enough to handle whatever winter throws your way, dressy enough to pair with a suit, but still casual enough to look great with jeans. After a season with them in your arsenal, you’ll wonder how they ever fell out of favour at all. — YANG-YI GOH 80 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
P H O T O : M AT T B A R N E S ; S T Y L I N G : M A R K J O H N T R I P P
$225
TIMBERLAND
& SHARP
PART II
SEAN BROWN DESIGNER– NEEDS&WANTS
T
hese are the people who’ve made their mark on the world of fashion, art and culture. This is what fuels their passion and drives them to succeed. This is what influences the influencers.
TIMBERLAND
& SHARP
STYLE | Grooming
1
THE BEST SCENTS OF THE SEASON
3
Every season is another excuse to find a new signature scent. One of these three should be yours.
4
2 JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN ACQUA
5
Exfoliation and you BY LAURA WEBER
AS YOUR SKIN CELLS naturally die off, they don’t just blow away in the wind. Sometimes they stick around. Exfoliation is the process of removing these— if you’re Ethan Hawke in Gattaca, to avoid genetic discrimination, or if you’re a regular person, to keep your skin looking healthy and youthful. Regular exfoliation also preps your face for a closer, smoother shave by loosening your beard hairs. Here are the best scrubs right now.
Made from ingredients native to a small village in Japan (like volcanic ash and adzuki bean powder) where the men apparently have such youthfullooking skin that it was only a matter of time before someone bottled the stuff. ($30)
2. Triumph & Disaster’s Rock & Roll Suicide Face Scrub As manly as a facial exfoliant comes, with hints of smoke and cedar and powered by volcanic ash and green clay. We’re pretty sure it’s what David Bowie uses. ($36)
3. Pre de Provence Argan and Shea Butter Exfoliating Soap
Sometimes getting men to stop using generic bar soap on their face (which will only dry out their skin) is like getting them to give up the graphic t-shirts they wore in college. Soap like this is handy, since
92 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
the face isn’t the only place that needs exfoliation. Plus, the shea butter adds much-needed moisture. ($8)
4. Dove Men+Care Deep Clean Body & Face Wash and Dual Sided Shower Tool
Specifically developed with purifying grains to meet the needs of men who like to wash, need to exfoliate and simply refuse to moisturize. When you’re ready to take it to the next level, try the Dual Sided Shower Tool, which has a lathering side and an exfoliating side and looks like something a part-cyborg supersoldier from the future might use. So, sufficiently masculine. ($6/$5)
5. Jack Black Face Buff Energizing Scrub Because all that scrubbing can leave your face feeling a bit raw—refreshingly so!—this exfoliant is combined with the cooling properties of menthol. Plus, there’s some vitamin C to help your skin stay supple. ($20)
BLEU DE CHANEL
It opens with invigorating citrus and pink pepper notes before settling into understated sandalwood and cedar. Enigmatic, like you. $90
BURBERRY BRIT RHYTHM
Inspired by the energy of live music, it features an invigorating blend of basil verbena, leather and cedarwood. Sexy and masculine. $90
PHOTO: SHOT WITH THE CANON 7D
TOUGH LOVE
1. Kyoku Exfoliating Scrub
A sweet, woody, Mediterraneaninspired fragrance channelling Sean Connery at the beach in Thunderball. $75
11.14
LOOK BET TER • FEEL BET TER • KNOW MORE
Love your car, three ways BY MATT BUBBERS
MORE THAN STATUS, more than identity, more than anything else, cars represent freedom and possibility. And adrenaline and joy and even fear. They are vehicles for experience and adventure. While we will always admire a well-made automobile, in the end, it’s not really about the car, it’s what you choose to do with it that matters. Here are three experiences you need to choose as soon as possible.
A PAINSTAKINGLY RESTORED ASTON MARTIN DB3S
SPECS
ENGINE: 3.0-LITRE STRAIGHT-6 POWER: 210 HP GEARBOX: 4-SPEED MANUAL PRICE: $5–7 MILLION (EST.) 96 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
CARS
1
3
Take care of a classic, then let it take care of you
ASTON MARTIN’S RESTORATION SHOP IS WHERE AUTOMOTIVE FANTASIES COME TO LIFE
>
THE MOST EXPENSIVE CAR IN THE WORLD KEEPS getting more expensive. This past summer, the most expensive car in the world sold at auction in California for $35.6 million. It was a Ferrari 250 GTO Berlinetta, one of 39 built between 1962 and 1964. Before that, the most expensive car in the world was a Mercedes-Benz W196, sold at a hammer of $29.7 million last year. The classic car market is very hot indeed. The Ferrari made headlines, where it stole page views away from stories like: “Homeprice rebound lost more steam in June.” Taken together, it seems that investing in a classic car might actually be a wise use of capital. But, that’s not why you should buy one. ••• In a series of large sheds that look and smell like holdovers from the industrial revolution, a team of craftsmen use gigantic English wheels and hammers to shape aluminium panels. They select, cut and stitch leather from Bridge of Weir, a tiny village near Glasgow. They drink builders’ tea. They tune twin-choke Webers by sight and by sound. You can’t plug a computer into these things. Grandfathers and fathers and sons, generations of craftsmen work here, passing on the now-arcane skills necessary for the maintenance of old cars. Their work is peerless, which is why it will cost you. A full restoration at this shop is a flat rate: £330,000 British pounds. This is Aston Martin Works, the company’s in-house restoration shop in
98 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
Newport-Pagnell, England, where collectable old cars are made new. This place is a time-warp, a wonderland, stocked with Zagatos and Vantages and DB5s and Lagondas all in various states of disassembly. There’s currently an 18-mont-long lineup to get your classic into Works. After that, you can expect to wait between 18 months and two years for a complete restoration. The front end of a DB5 alone takes 220 hours—more than a month of work—to create out of aluminum. It’s a cliché, but it also happens to be true: you don’t own a classic car, you look after it. If you want your investment to appreciate, you don’t ship it to Maaco for a paint job. There’s no better way to ensure your classic runs well and increases in value than sending it back to the factory for restoration. Aston Works is among the best in the field. It is awe-inspiring to see the lengths that The two most expensive collectors will go to keep their prized cars Aston Martins ever sold pristine, fighting against time, and winning. at auction were a 1961 But investing in a classic isn’t the same as Aston Martin Bertone investing in stocks or bonds. You can enjoy Jet ($4.9 million in 2013) and a 1952 Aston Martin your automotive investment, not in some DBR2 ($3.4 million mythological future, not as the fruits of in 1985). your labour after you sell it, but right now: We asked the experts drive it as it was meant to be driven, race it at Works which models alongside other collectors at Monterey or may be ready to increase Goodwood or Monaco. It’s a risk, sure, like in value. Here’s what any investment, but you can’t fall in love they suggested: with a stock. Buy a car you love, something • 1976–1990 “Towns” you’d want even if its value tanks. If you Lagonda choose the right car and its value skyrock• 1994–2004 DB7 ets, well, you’ll never have had so much fun • Mid 1970s DBS making so much money—if, of course, you • 2001–2007 Vanquish can ever bring yourself to part with it.
HOT TIPS
CARS
3
3
Go on a great Canadian road trip
EXPLORING GOLD RUSH TERRITORY IN GMC’S RUGGED NEW YUKON DENALI
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SOMEWHERE NORTHWEST OF WHITEHORSE IN the Yukon Territory, there’s a sign that says, “Now leaving 911 service area.” It would be disconcerting, except that my cell phone lost reception hours ago anyway. From Whitehorse to Dawson City is about six or seven hours of driving on the Klondike Highway. During the gold rush, it would’ve taken the better part of a week to cover that distance by horse and buggy. If it weren’t for the cold and dysentery, those gold diggers might be considered lucky: it’s a nice drive to savour. It’s a lonely piece of road through pure wilderness. Seems every few kilometres there is another lake mirroring the hills of evergreens along the route. In places, the road snakes and twists enough that I briefly wish I was driving a sports car. Soon enough, though, our full-sized GMC Yukon Denali feels just right. (A Yukon in the Yukon, get it?) We’re thankful for having the SUV when the road turns to gravel. Four-wheel drive or not, the 6.2-litre V8 engine has enough torque to powerslide out of corners if you ask it to. Remembering ENGINE: the ominous sign we passed, I do my best to 6.2-LITRE V8 restrain myself. We pass sand dunes and a turquoise lake POWER: 420 HP and a yellow Hummer with Alaska plates that GEARBOX: has “Obama sucks” spray-painted badly onto 6-SPEED AUTO its trailer. Later, we pull into a rest stop whose PRICE: $73,540 main attraction is a $10 homemade
SPECS
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cinnamon bun the size of a dinner plate. The man behind the counter says he’s seen plenty of people eat a whole bun in a single sitting. There’s no prize or anything. In the winter this place is a checkpoint on the route of the Iditarod sled dog race. ••• For lack of something more specific, Canada is probably best understood by its physical boundaries. To the west, the Pacific Ocean. To the east, the Atlantic. To the south, the United States. And to the north, the Arctic. Huge distances connect these far away places, and so, too, are all Canadians connected by sheer distance, the furious space in-between. We live in the second-largest country in the world. The scale of that fact is impossible to comprehend most of the time, although it does start to come into focus during our drive through the Yukon. ••• The best way to understand the distance that defines the country is to experience it. In fact, that’s the only way to understand it. The automobile—one suited to the specific route and conditions at hand—is the best tool for the job. Flying doesn’t do it justice. Cycling is too slow. And walking is only good if you’re trying to raise money for a cause. So often road trips are used as a catalyst for self-discovery—as well they should be—but the road trip is vital to understanding the place we live. The longer the road the better.
GUIDE | Fatherhood
FALLING DOWN
On brothers, fathers, sons and ice.
BY SHAUGHNESSY BISHOP-STALL • ILLUSTRATION BY PAUL BLOW
WHEN WE FIRST KICKED AROUND THE concept for this column—that I’d learn to do all the things a man should know, before my boy is old enough to realize I don’t know how to do anything— Zev was about a year old. The idea came from one of my deepest fears of fatherhood: if he’s going to play hockey, he’ll need to know how to skate… Zev is four now, and I still haven’t stepped onto the ice. It is one thing for a young Canadian man to admit he doesn’t know how to build a log cabin, catch a salmon or dress a deer. But that he can’t play hockey—let alone skate! The reasons I haven’t tried (other than it hurts to fall on your ass) aren’t that simple. ••• I grew up in Vancouver, where the culture of skating is different mostly due to a lack of ice. I’ve used that as 104 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
an excuse for most of my life. But I left Vancouver a long time ago, and the shame of never playing ice hockey has followed me closely. As with most feelings of shame, I only half-jokingly blamed this on my dad. My dad had trouble skating as a kid because of some early ankle problems. And it was exactly that kind of thing—the perceived inadequacies of the father passed down to the son—that made us both a bit nervous when I brought up the concept of this column. I think we were watching hockey. “So, basically,” he said, handing me the chips as the whistle blew, “you’re going to be writing about how your crummy father never taught you how to do anything.” “No,” I said, through a mouthful of Pringles. “That’s not it at all.” And it wasn’t. There’s no one who’s taught me more manly
Chris Pine is
a) a starship captain. b) a super spy. c) an actor. d) all of us.
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All the beautiful women Lauren Cohan reveals why we love the women we love.
By Greg Hudson Photography by Ari Michelson
Lauren Cohan’s accent is nomadic. It’s like she’s supposed to be playing a Brit, but she can’t quite keep a grasp on the pronunciation, intonation or tone. She keeps slipping, her dialect a war of independence, her American accent peeking through. In that sense—and only in that sense—she sounds a little like a Canadian great-grandmother. It’s charming as hell. Especially since she doesn’t look one whit like a Canadian great-grandmother. It’s too bad these pictures can’t talk. The accent is a result of her upbringing, naturally. She was born in Pennsylvania, but she moved to the UK when she was 15. “By the time I was at university or just finishing, I sounded more English than I did American, but I still had this twang, and then from 20 to 24 I think I really felt super English, I was the most English,” she says, and the way the word "university" skips out of her mouth sounds impossibly refined. She moved back to the States when she got regular acting work. Now, on The Walking Dead, which is likely where you recognize her from, she hides her accent expertly under a subtle layer of Georgia grit. All the better to kill zombies with. Speaking of: Lauren Cohan can talk to you about zombies if you want her to. And because zombies are big these days—and also because she’s a beautiful woman—people often want her to. Zombies are like sports for nerds: in the grand scheme of life, they are meaningless, pretend even, yet they inspire the kind of full-throated fandom that leads grown men to paint their faces and argue about fantasy scenarios. And, like sports, men really seem to like it when women talk about them. “I think they make you constantly assess what’s important to you and how much you want to fight for that,” she says. “I think we’re all becoming zombies in a lot of ways. I think much of the fascination with the show is you can
For more pictures from our shoot with Lauren Cohan, go to Sharpmagazine.com/category/women
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Lauren Cohan
“I think we’re all becoming zombies in a lot of ways.”
CANADA’S MAGAZINE FOR SOPHISTICATED WOMEN FA L L 2 0 1 4 AVA ILABLE ON NEWS S TANDS SEPTEMBER 17TH VISI T US ONLINE AT S S T Y LE M AG AZI N E . C OM
GET FIT NOW 118 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
Karon Liu is a food writer. He is the man responsible for the Crookie—a Canadian response to the Cronut craze, made from the unholy union of a croissant and an Oreo cookie. He is man familiar with eating. And, as such, he’s a man familiar with the need to burn off all the stuff he eats. But, then, aren’t we all. I trekked up to Mount Everest Base Camp. I knew that kale is king, and I did textbook-perfect push-ups, but as a food writer I essentially get paid to eat at as many restaurants as I can. Even if you have the metabolism and disposition, eating professionally can wreak havoc on your health. Although I do have a certain Jughead-like constitution, I still needed to upgrade my workouts and overall diet if I were to eat fried pork belly for the third time in one week. So, while my job might not be a typical one, it probably isn’t too different from most in a lot of ways. I have deadlines. I continue to work after dinner. My face probably has a tan from countless hours in front of the glowing computer screen. It’s not physically taxing work, and I don’t build strength doing it. Such is the case for most urban dwellers, and we’re generally in okay shape as a result. We bike on weekends, take the stairs on occasion and have access to fresh produce. We’re fine. Not great. Adequate. Just scraping by to stay out of the doctor’s office. But here’s the thing: once we exit our twenties and move into our adulthood proper, we can no longer afford to treat our bodies passively. Where once we could eat what we wanted, drink what we wanted and avoid physical activity with little to no ill effects, we’re now forced to reckon with the cold hard truth of the matter: we’re getting older, weaker, sicker. But it doesn’t need to be so. We can use what we’ve got to look better, feel better and live longer, healthier lives. Here are 10 rules to follow to get fit(ter) now.
Rule No. 1
FIGHT APATHY
combines gymnastics, track and field, Olympic weightlifting and a number of other disciplines in an effort to develop functional fitness,” she wrote, adding that, under the supervision of a coach, the intense eight-minute workout had her jumping on boxes, throwing weighted balls, skipping, and doing burpees and pull-ups. She was sore the next day. I hadn’t felt sore in what felt like years. Perfect. CrossFit uses high-intensity interval training exercises to work multiple muscle groups for the most “efficient” workout in a short time (rather than, say, calves on Wednesday and biceps on Thursday). It promised the most bang for my time-crunched buck, so I was willing to overlook CrossFit’s cult-like reputation. Combine the testosterone of MMA fighting and the rah-rah spirit of a USO tour, and substitute yoga’s religious-like devotion to juice cleanses & paleo brownies, and you have CrossFit in a nutshell.
The last place I worked had a gym. It was right next to my office. It was a decent-sized room with equipment not unlike that at a Holiday Inn. And I made use of it three or four times a week for an hour. The problem is, in that hour, I did the bare minimum: a 20-minute jog on the treadmill with my eyes fixed on the wall-mounted TV, some bicep curls and push-ups, and plenty of email breaks. There was no one there to tell me to run faster, choose a heavier weight or threaten to drop my phone in the water cooler if I didn’t turn it off. I wanted to pick up a barbell but didn’t know what to do with it, so I played it safe. It kept me in shape, but limited. And it kept me bored. I found out about CrossFit about two years ago when a reporter friend wrote about a new Toronto gym that specialized in it. It was still relatively unknown at the time. “CrossFit
INTERNET FITNESS Selfies aren’t just for teenagers anymore. If that weren’t a scary enough fact, going online and seeing how full-grown men are flexing, posing, oiling and flirting with cameras in the name of better health is sure to make you cringe. It starts simply enough: you take a “before” picture as you embark on your quest to losing weight. It’s a great way to track your progress, but save yourself the trauma (and your friends the awkward social media experience) by following these simple rules:
R Do take a before picture. Q Don’t post it online. R Do take a progress picture each week. Q Don’t post it online. R Do revel in the progress you’ve made. Q Don’t post it online.
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r i a H
A S M U C H A S W E A R E LO AT H T O A D M I T I T,
despite all our encouragement, some men simply won’t use moisturizer. They won’t exfoliate or use cuticle cream and will never feel the cooling, soothing joy of a good eye roller. It would seem that some men just don’t care about their skin. That being said, one thing every man cares about is his hair. Whether it’s the hair on his face, the hair on his head or the landscape where
that hair used to be, a man cares a great deal about that cluster of dead cells. And well he should. Your head—and the hair sprouting from it—is likely the single most important factor in your presentation to the world. Should you grow a beard? What should you do if your hair is disappearing? Where should you get your hair cut? And how does Robert Downey Jr. get that calculated messiness? All these questions and more are answered in...
THE SHARP GROOMING GUIDE:
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n o i t i d E !
Barber Shop THE STATE OF THE
Old-school barbers are enjoying a swell of popularity not seen in half a century. But how long will it last? BY YA N G Y I G O H
NOT SO LONG AGO,
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barbershops were going extinct. They were an anachronism, an institution that fell somewhere between the postal service and the video store on the scale of Overall Usefulness to Modern Life. Our fathers would be the last generation to cycle through the pole-marked doors, and that would be that. But then, things changed. In the last few years, seemingly overnight, barbershops staged a comeback. They’ve become as ubiquitous as Starbucks, in cities not just across North America, but in countries as far-flung as Australia, Japan and Brazil. Gone is the hairy-eared Italian barber who trimmed your childhood bowl cut once a month, replaced by a legion of young dudes in cuffed jeans and suspenders turning out dozens of pomadeslicked side parts and straight razor shaves a day. It’s not just hipsters populating their swiveling chairs, though. It’s lawyers, architects and cops, too. For men below a certain age, this new breed of barbershop is the only haircut option worth considering. The state of the barbershop is strong. For now. CHRIS HAMMELL could be a poster boy for the 21st-century barber. At first glance, you might mistake him for a cast member of Sons of Anarchy. Shaved head and bushy mustache. Tattoocovered, colossus of a body. Before picking up scissors and a smock four years ago, the 32-year-old toured for over a decade with punk bands like Alexisonfire and Good Charlotte, doing a little bit of everything—stage managing, selling merch, whatever they needed. Now, he’s the proprietor of Town Barber, a two-seat chop shop in the back room of Lost & Found, a menswear boutique on Toronto’s hip Ossington strip. “Based on my appearance, I’m not exactly the most hireable person in the world,” Hammell says with a gold-toothed grin. “I’ve always wanted to work for myself, and I knew I had to do something weird.” Except that Town Barber’s location isn’t actually all that weird. Crows Nest Barbershop, where Hammell first learned the trade, thrived for three years in the cramped basement of a Toronto vintage store before finally moving into a renovated above-ground space of its own last December. And Fellow Barber, the New York parlour that’s credited with kicking off the barbering renaissance, began life at the rear of
a Lower East Side suit shop way back in 2006. That new-school barbershops were birthed in the fashion world isn’t the least bit coincidental. It speaks to the biggest—maybe only— difference between the current crop and their forebears: aesthetics. Where traditional shops are no-nonsense and utilitarian, their successors swathe themselves in an old-world veneer of antique leather chairs, tiled floors and taxidermy that gives them a distinctly masculine, clubhouse-like feel. In some ways, they’re a direct descendent of the “man spas” that grew out of the mid-aughts’ metrosexual boom—but while both cater to fashion-savvy guys, only the barbershops have understood how to balance style and substance in a manner that appeals to the majority of men. “Guys want a place to go where they can be a guy,” Hammell says. And as old-timey, clipper-cut side parts and pompadours have risen in popularity—thanks in large part to Brylcreemheavy period dramas like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire—the new generation of barbers have cemented themselves as the best place to cop the look. At Town Barber, Hammell estimates that 90 per cent of the cuts he gives are some variation of “clippers on the sides, scissors up top.” But while this specialization helped fuel the rapid growth of barbershops, it could also serve to stagnate them in the near future. In Ontario, at least, a fight is brewing over the issue of barbers' rights. Since 1991, the Ontario Ministry of Training, Colleges and Universities hasn’t recognized barbering as its own trade, lumping it into the larger category of hairdressing. The result is that in order to legally cut hair in Ontario, you’re required to pass a 150-question licensing exam that focuses on the female side of the industry—the proper handling of chemicals used for colouring, for instance, or the correct techniques for mastering pin curls. To prepare for the test, prospective barbers have two main options: apprentice at a barbershop, where you’ll learn the ins and outs of men’s hair (and have to teach yourself the exam material from a book) or you can attend beauty school and sit through 10 to 12 months of classes covering processes and skills you’ll likely never use.“It’d be like going to electrician school to become a plumber,” Hammell says. NOT ALL BARBERS AGREE WITH THAT STANCE, though. Alex Berry, the head barber at Garrison’s by the Park Barbershop in Toronto, attended hairdressing school, got his licence and spent six years working at both barbershops and salons before landing his CONTINUED ON P.126 NOVEMBER 2014 / SHARPMAGAZINE.COM 125
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current gig. In his view, versatility is an invaluable safety net. “A lot of guys want to be barbers now because it’s trendy,” Berry says, “but they don’t care to learn the other half of the trade. What happens in a few years when the trends change, and the five haircuts they know how to give won’t cut it anymore?" It’s a fair question. Will modern barbershops be able to outlast the look they’ve perfected? “This is probably the climax of my career,” Berry says. “I’ve been doing this for almost a decade, and I’m making more money right now than I ever have. “But I know within the next five years, it’s going to start to slow down,” he continues. “Only the strong will survive. A few of my customers are already tired of the classic cuts and want a change, and I worry for the newer barbers out there who don’t have the skill or technique to give guys something different.” BUT MAYBE, just maybe, the success and longevity of a barbershop hinges less on giving a certain look and more on understanding men. It’s what’s kept Forest Hill Barber Shop—an old-school joint entrenched a few miles north of Town Barber and Toronto’s epicentre of cool—afloat for more than 80 years. On a surface level, Forest Hill doesn’t have a whole lot in common with its downtown successors. The shop’s interior is simple and to the point—harsh fluorescent lights bear down on dated linoleum floors—and there isn’t a single visible tattoo or piercing on any of its four aging barbers. But as the clippers buzz and the regulars yammer on, the parallels come into focus. “A barbershop is a comfort zone for guys,” explains Terry Caris, who after 20 years in the shop is its least-tenured barber. “It’s a man’s solace,” Caris’s current customer, a gentleman with wispy white hairs sparsely populating the sides and back of his freckled dome, interjects with a wide grin. “It’s a nice place to come.” That’s something Chris Hammell understands well. “Some days it feels like I’m half-therapist, half-barber,” he laughs, “but at the end of the cut, the guy’s going to leave feeling great because he looks better and he’s got some shit off his chest.” Later in the afternoon, Hammell has a meeting with a landlord about a potential storefront up the street, and he’s beaming at the prospect of Town Barber finally having a space entirely its own. And while he knows that the barbershop mania might taper off in the next few years, he’s as committed to his profession as any of the old-timers in Forest Hill. “To some extent, I’m in this for life,” Hammell says. “Guys are always going to need haircuts.” 126 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
HOW TO
Cop Their Style You don’t need a team of stylists to look like a famous person. You just need the right tools.
Hugh Jackman “The Wolverine”
Robert Downey Jr. “The Stark”
Ryan Gosling “The Driver”
A tamer, slicker version of Jackman's mutant alter-ego's mane.
Exudes a carefree aura, even if it probably takes RDJ’s hair stylist all morning to get the look just right.
A modern take on the classic Steve McQueen side sweep.
American Crew Hair Recovery and Thickening Shampoo First and foremost, especially if you have fine hair, you'll need to pump up your locks. This shampoo will help. $20 Mason Pearson Sensitive SB2M Military Hair Brush, Thicker hair requires fewer bristles. This brush is the MercedesBenz of bristles. $265 Shu Uemura Shape Paste Apply a dime-sized amount evenly throughout your hair for tamed yet unruly definition. $40
Twin Turbo 2800 Dryer Run the dryer on low while fluffing the back and top of your hair with a brush. $130 Layrite Grooming Spray This spray creates a bit of volume during the drying process without leaving your hair overly stiff. $12 John Allan's Tough Fortifying Styling Paste For added texture, work a bit of this styling cream through your hair for more volume and hold. $20
Imperial Barber Products Matte Pomade Paste Anything greasier would turn this into a Don Draper overslick. $25 Kent MS23 Brush This cut won't work unless it's expertly brushed (and, no, a comb won't do), preferably from your natural parting position. $55 Joris Palladium Plated Classic Double-Edge Safety Razor To prevent your look from getting sloppy, give the back of your neck a once-over with a razor every so often. A second mirror is essential, as is a steady hand. $170
BEST EXCUSE TO SHAVE YOUR BEARD: THE PHILIPS NORELCO 9700 SERIES WET & DRY ELECTRIC SHAVER Like the Apple Watch and cheeseburger-flavoured potato chips, Philips’ newest offering comes straight from the not-too-distant sci-fi future. The device’s V-shaped blades allow for an impossibly close shave, sans any irritation. Its Contour Detect Technology allows the device’s three shaving heads to pivot in eight directions, making the process amazingly smooth. $350
Beard
THE YEAR OF THE
Why looking like Paul Bunyan isn’t as fun as it seems BY COLEMAN MOLNAR
I WA S AT A L AUNCH PARTY
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for a new beer. A man I had never seen before, a stranger, walked up to me and began stroking my face. Ordinarily, this would warrant a reaction—a deflection of the hand, an awkward syllable uttered in discomfort, a look along the lines of “Why are you touching me, strange man?”—but I didn’t budge. We locked eyes and he petted my face. It wasn’t the first time this had happened. Once my beard reached a certain length, strange occurances started happening. The Year of the Beard taught me a few things. I started growing facial hair as soon as I was able. In university, I experimented with a chinstrap. It’s an unfortunate look that, so far, has only been pulled off successfully by one man. And he signed the Emancipation Proclamation. But a girl on the volleyball team told me I looked better, older. Women: never doubt the power of your compliments. I’m quite sure men have started wars as a simple excuse to hear women tell them they look good in uniform. That one compliment was enough to influence my shaving patterns for years. There would be weeks where I’d be clean-shaven, but more often than not, I sported some degree of shade. I saw the power of a bearded man in a suit. It was on the streets of Europe. The juxtaposition of sophistication and ruggedness was striking, like a wolf in a limousine. I thought to myself, “I can do that.” And so, I let it go. I pushed past the awkward stages of semi-growth that occur somewhere after a month and, again, was egged on by a barrage of compliments. Never before in my life had I been complimented so much. Mostly by other men. THIS HAS BEEN THE YEAR OF THE BEARD. From the hipsters pulling your americano at the local artisanal espresso bar to the runways of Milan to George Clooney and Ben Affleck palling around at the Oscars—the beard is everywhere. A raft of new products subsequently appeared: organic beard oils, wooden beard comb sets, beard shampoos and conditioners and beard control creams, all catering to the swelling number of bearded men among us. While pinpointing the exact genesis of a trend is near impossible, in all likelihood men’s modern infatuation with full beards—not just scruff, but burly face-gardens—started at the same time that classic cocktails and vintage-inspired workwear began to gain popularity. Beards, like those other trends, embody a kind of return. To masculinity, to authenticity, to a simpler, purportedly better time.
Last spring, a university in Australia, citing some kind of scientific analysis, made headlines declaring that the world had reached “peak beard.” The trend had reached its apex. The thinking was that, as beards grew in popularity, their allure wore off. What once seemed novel and edgy, and therefore attractive to a mate, became so common as to be moot. Like having a Twitter feed, or DJing.
MY CHOSEN STYLE WAS LONG AND THICK on the bottom with slightly shorter sides. It made my jaw look wide and sharp, which it isn’t, aged me by about 10 years and added around 35 pounds of bulk. Or so it seemed. Men introduced me to their friends who also had beards, as if we should be members of some secret club, brothers in wiping our mouths after every bite. One evening, a couple asked to have their picture taken with me and my beard. It wasn't the first time. My beard had taken over my identity. For all the praise heaped on men who embody individuality, there is encouragement that comes with being part of a trend. It’s intoxicating. Few men out there would scoff at being told they embody masculinity, but I wasn’t sold on being just a well-manicured beard. It’s the one thing I share with, say, Kate Upton: I’m more than my appearance, damn it. Besides, it wasn’t all it was cracked up to be. Though I hid it with precise and meticulous combing, my beard was patchy on the sides. It was also itchy, and sometimes even painful, especially if slept on it the wrong way. But there it was, for better or worse, hanging off my face, inviting high-fives and unwanted touching. As the strange man at the party continued fondling—“Where does your chin even start?”—I wondered exactly how this was okay. What is it about a beard that prompts men to transcend the societal (and physical) barriers we put up for everything else? It might be a primal response. Beards are undeniably animalistic. Some speculate that in our age of extended adolescence among men, facial hair is being used as a way of asserting one’s maturity. “I am man! See me grow!” But in the moment, it was unpleasant. I wasn’t insulted—it was meant as a compliment, and I was flattered that a man— regardless of his sexual orientation—would feel compelled to touch my face, uninvited. But it signaled what I had begun to suspect: that beardedness, for all of its mainstream ubiquity of late, is still a novelty. And, for better or worse, I had become its spokesman. And so, I put the plug in my bathroom sink and grabbed the clippers. I paused for a moment, wondering if I would miss the compliments, the flirtatious looks from women, the quasicelebrity status. And then I shaved it down to the skin. NOVEMBER 2014 / SHARPMAGAZINE.COM 127
presents
18 LESSONS ON
MANHOOD F R O M 14 M E N WO RT H LISTENING TO as told to Greg Hudson
Everyone has an opinion, and this is not a new thing. What is new is the unprecedented number of channels via which we’re now able to broadcast these opinions instantly (and often with regrettable consequences) to the entire planet. It’s noisy out there. Our A Man Worth Listening To series exists as an antidote to the shouting and confusion, a beam of light through the clutter: here are men we respect greatly, who have achieved big things, who have tried, failed, overcome and lived to tell the tale. They are performers, journalists, writers and businessmen, and we spoke to them all about what they’ve learned along the way. Of course their opinions are just that—subjective—but we’re confident it’s more useful than anything you’ll see in Twitter today.
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3 IF YOU DON’T BELIEVE IN IT, NOBODY ELSE WILL
KEVIN HART Comedian
RYAN GOSLING Actor, Director
1 2
SUCCESS DOESN’T HAPPEN ALL AT ONCE
I don’t know what to say about fame. I’ve been doing this since I was eight, so I can’t really say that it came out of nowhere. But, I can’t say that I saw it coming either. My friend’s grandmother would soak a lobster in vodka, get it good and drunk before she put it in the pot to cook it. Then she’d turn the heat up real slow. That lobster never knew what hit him. That’s how it’s kind of gone down for me. Except in my story, I guess I’m the old lady and the lobster. _______
DON’T FORGET TO TAKE JOY IN THE LITTLE THINGS
Well, let me just put it this way: when I’m down in the dumps, nothing gets my toes a-tappin’ like putting on my old MC Hammer pants. And they still fit, even though my aunt made them for me when I was eight. But that’s the genius of MC Hammer. They still fit even though I’ve grown significantly. I’ll never understand how MC Hammer got into money problems. Genius.
I believed in the career that I chose, and I didn’t have a lot of options. It wasn’t as though, if this doesn’t work, I’m going to get my master’s. I worked at a sneaker store. Once I said this is what I want to do, it’s what I was going to do. I think having that desire is what separates me from a lot of people in the entertainment industry. It was literally all or nothing. Also, I think I had something special. I felt like it was different for me. My stage presence was different. If I did the right thing, it could really turn out to be something special. Here’s the difference: yes, everybody does say they have desire. But everybody doesn’t know how to deal with not being good enough. When people hear that, they break. And naturally, in the entertainment industry, people’s breaking point is so much lower because everybody is going off a dream. I was told that I wasn’t that good a comedian. I’ve been told harsh things face to face. I used that as motivation to do better. And that’s the difference—not everyone has the same drive to go on when they hear something they don’t want to hear.
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THE WELLCONSIDERED MAN The Strain’s Corey Stoll shows you how to look put together and effortlessly cool in the season’s snappiest wool suits
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT BARNES • STYLING BY MARK JOHN TRIPP 136 SHARPMAGAZINE.COM / NOVEMBER 2014
WOOL PLAID SUIT ($1,500), COTTON SHIRT ($285) AND SILK TIE ($150) BY PAUL SMITH, AT HOLT RENFREW; SUEDE SHOES ($270) BY TIGER OF SWEDEN.
SEPTEMBER 2014 / SHARPMAGAZINE.COM 137
DOWN-FILLED SUEDE BLAZER ($1,595) AND KNIT ZIP-UP SWEATER ($495) BY CORNELIANI; COTTON SHIRT ($290) BY BURBERRY BRIT.