presents
C A N A D A ’ S
G U I D E
T O
THE ART OF TIME The world’s most stunning superwatches have never looked this good THE ULTIMATE WATCH WARDROBE: This year’s must-have timepieces and how to wear them PLUS: ESSENTIAL PILOT’S WATCHES THE 1,000 MPH ROLEX GIFTS FOR CIGAR LOVERS
+ HOW TO BUY HER A WATCH
F I N E
T I M E P I E C E S
w w w.tim eandst y l e. ca
TIME & ST YLE
CONTENTS 3 LETTER FROM OUR RESIDENT WATCH AFICIONADO
6 NEWS 8 ACCESSORIES Indulge your taste for cigars and modern design in equal measure with these elegant accoutrements. Plus: Beautiful automotive timepieces from Rolex, Breitling and Bremont.
1 2 TRENDS Your new watch wardrobe begins here: key timepieces for every occasion and rakish winter wardrobe essentials to accompany them.
2 2 FLIPPING COOL Five years in the making, the MCT Sequential Two S200 tells time in an entirely new way.
3 0 THE NUDE WATCH The world’s most exotic watches and the female form: A Sharp: The Book for Men retrospective.
3 6 TOP GUNS How the pilot watch made the journey from cockpit instrument to style statement.
3 8 GIVE HER WHAT SHE WANTS
Buying a watch for that special woman? Our expert panel advises on how to give her something she’ll treasure forever.
4 0 BRAND DIRECTORY 42 SAFE TRAVELS The ultimate bodyguard for your most precious timepieces.
26 UN-COMPLICATING THE COMPLICATION
Ever wondered what a rattrapante does? Plus six more cool complications and how to use them.
10 The Bloodhound SSC aims to break the 1,000 MPH barrier, and is taking Rolex along for the ride.
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EVENTS
HAMILTON GOES INTERSTELLAR ——
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OMEGA INITIATES “TIME FOR THE PLANET” ——
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n its ongoing commitment to environmental causes, Omega partnered with Yann Arthus-Bertrand and the GoodPlanet Foundation to launch two new initiatives, in Tanakeke Island and Bahoi in Indonesia. The three-year projects will focus on protecting ecosystems and working with the local communities on stewardship of these sensitive areas. The projects are made possible with the help of the OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GoodPlanet GMT, a portion of whose sales benefit Time for the Planet.
MEISTERSINGER INTRODUCES THE NEW CIRCULARIS ——
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ünster-based MeisterSinger is renowned for its collection of mechanical singlehand watches—with designs immediately recognizable for their functional simplicity. For the new Circularis family, MeisterSinger founder Manfred Brassler took a hands-on approach. Not only did he design the face and case of the watch, but the balanced aesthetic of the movement’s twin mainspring barrels as well. The Circularis boasts a manually wound movement with a five-day power reserve as well as serif numerals and elegant slender line indices. 6 T IME & ST Y LE
erhaps no other timepiece brand is as closely associated with filmmaking as Hamilton, whose watches have had supporting roles in over 400 films. The latest is Interstellar, starring Matthew McConaughey, directed by Christopher Nolan. In the film, McConaughey sports a Hamilton Khaki Pilot Day Date in his quest to save the future of humanity.
ACCESSORIES
Cigars 1. 2.
THE SMOKING ROOM Give your cigars the attention they deserve with these elegant accessories
BY COLEMAN MOLNAR & JOANNE JIN
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f you have a relationship with cigars, you know that it’s difficult to remain casual. It gets serious, quickly. They are a demanding partner, with rules pertaining to how they’re handled and kept. When you’re ready to take it to the next level and invest in a smoking room, you’ll need the appropriate accoutrements for your space. Here are the essentials, all crafted to a level worthy of any aficionado.
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5. 1. Prometheus Cigar Case $100 2. Alessi Bauhaus Ashtray $220 3. S.T. Dupont Ceranium Lighter $1,800 4. S.T. Dupont Humidor $2,600 5. Davidoff Cigar Cutter $355
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ACCESSORIES
Cars
SPEED PLUS TIME Powerful cars and precision timekeeping BY JUSTIN MASTINE-FROST
JAGUAR AND BREMONT In August Jaguar announced that finally, nearly 40 years after the last one rolled off the line, its heritage division would be building a series of six special-edition E-types, starting with a Lightweight coupe. To accompany these über-exclusive cars, the brand partnered with British watchmaker Bremont Chronometers, who is offering oneof-a-kind timepieces designed to match the instruments of these classic pieces of automotive history.
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ars and watches have a long and storied history together, with the world’s foremost watch brands creating custom dashboard clocks for top-range vehicles and special limited-edition timepieces for their lucky owners.
BENTLEY AND BREITLING With the launch of the 2014 Flying Spur W12, Breitling is on board as the dashboard clock of choice for the freshly redesigned model. Created with a focus on understated elegance, the clock features a black dial with contrasting white numerals and, of course, the classic Breitling logo.
BLOODHOUND SSC AND ROLEX Much in the same way the brand strived to dive deeper than ever before, creating a watch designed to explore the ocean’s darkest depths, Rolex partnered with Bloodhound SSC to provide speed and timekeeping for what is set to be a groundbreaking land-speed record run. The resulting cockpit instruments will hopefully see the Bloodhound SSC reach the 1000-mph mark.
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THE
NEW WATCH WARDROBE Owning a beautiful timepiece is one of life’s great pleasures. But why stop at one? These five watch trends will pair seamlessly with your wardrobe for the workday, the weekend and everything in between.
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TRENDS
THE SPECIAL OCCASION PIECE
W O O L T U X E D O ( $ 1,4 9 5 ) , S I L K C U M M E R B U N D ( $ 1 2 5 ) A N D C U F F L I N K S ( $ 2 2 5 ) B Y Z Z E G N A ; S I L K B O W T I E ( $ 6 5 ) B Y T O M M Y H I L F I G E R ; PAT E N T L E AT H E R S H O E S ( $ 4 4 5 ) B Y B O S S .
—— Formal occasions are all about pomp, ceremony and tradition— that’s why black-tie attire allows very little room for improvisation. These dark-faced dress watches are the equivalent of a midnightblue tux: traditional in form, but just unique enough in their details to set you apart from the crowd.
Tudor Style $2,420
Ebel 100 Classic $2,700
Montblanc TimeWalker Date Automatic $3,690
Raymond Weil Toccata $895
Concord Mariner $2,500
Louis Vuitton Damier $4,400
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TRENDS
THE EVERYDAY WATCH ——
Cartier Calibre Diver $30,000
Omega Seamaster 300 $12,600
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique $30,800
Guess $175
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 Automatic $6,000
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S I L K P O C K E T S Q U A R E ( $ 1 3 5 ) B Y I S A I A ; S U E D E B E LT ( $ 1,5 0 0 ) B Y K I T O N .
Rolex Submariner Date $14,450
W O O L- A N D - C O T T O N K N I T S U I T ( $ 3 ,0 7 0 ) B Y M I S S O N I ; C O T T O N O X F O R D S H I R T ( $ 3 4 5 ) B Y E R M E N E G I L D O Z E G N A ; W O O L T I E ( $ 2 3 5 ) A N D W O O L-
“Is that your father’s watch?” said nobody, ever, about a two-tone dive watch—especially one in pink gold, steel and black ceramic. You see, while dear old dad wore his gold retirement gift with pride, it was, like his pleated trousers, of a different time. These modern timepieces—equal parts sporty and elegant—will slip neatly under the cuff of a subtly pinstriped (and immaculately tailored) wooland-cotton suit, announcing to the world that you are a gentleman who takes cues from the past while looking steadfastly ahead.
TRENDS
THE WEEKENDER ——
Chopard Mille Miglia $5,520
Tissot T-Race 2014 $1,550
TW Steel Yamaha Factory Racing $895
Gc Homme X95001G2S $795
Seiko Sportura Alarm Chronograph $695
Citizen Matt Kenseth Limited Edition Ecosphere $595
F L A N N E L V E S T ( $ 2 3 0 ) B Y T O M M Y H I L F I G E R ; W O O L C A B L E - K N I T S W E AT E R ( $ 7 3 5 ) B Y M O N C L E R G A M M E B L E U ; W O O L C A R G O PA N T S ( $ 9 6 5 ) B Y B R U N E L LO C U C I N E L L I ; S U E D E H I K I N G B O O T S ( $ 7 6 0 ) B Y D R I E S VA N N O T E N ; S U N G L A S S E S ( $ 2 3 5 ) B Y B O S S E Y E W E A R .
Dressing for the weekend is about finding the perfect balance between practicality and style. This combination of a quilted vest, fine merino sweater, wool trousers and casual boots is as at home in the ski chalet as it is strolling the city streets. The racing watch accomplishes the same goals: it’s a classic and functional timepiece (those chronos come in surprisingly handy) with a hearty dose of high-octane aesthetics.
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TRENDS
THE STYLE STATEMENT ——
Rolex Day/Date green dial $23,750
Victorinox Swiss Army I.N.O.X. $525
Oris Aquis Small Second Green $2,450
Bulova Accutron II $575
Bremont ALT1-C $5,900
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PA N T S ( $ 3 9 5 ) , S I L K- W O O L T I E ( $ 2 3 5 ) A N D S U E D E B E LT ( $ 3 4 0 ) B Y I S A I A .
Breitling Superocean Héritage 42 $4,405
Q U I LT E D S U E D E S H I R T ( P R I C E U P O N R E Q U E S T ) B Y T O D ’ S ; C O T T O N S H I R T ( $ 4 5 0 ) , C O T T O N C A R G O
Like an immaculately preserved vintage car, a timepiece with a bold pop of colour is an indulgence—a worthwhile one. It’s not going to come out every day, but when it does, people take notice. These verdant pieces will add panache to your look when worn with mustard yellows, dark browns and navy blues. And unlike a classic car, you can enjoy these watches all year round.
TRENDS
THE WILD CARD ——
Longines Heritage Diver $3,550
Hermès Dressage (Price on request)
Rado New Original Chrono $1,875
Movado Bold $695
Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Gent $825
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PA N T S ( $ 3 9 5 ) B Y M I C H A E L KO R S ; L E AT H E R S N E A K E R S ( $ 74 5 ) B Y VA L E N T I N O .
Omega Speedmaster Mark II $6,250
D O U B L E - FA C E C A S H M E R E S W E AT S H I R T ( $ 4 9 5 ) , C O T T O N P O P L I N S H I R T ( $ 1 2 5 ) A N D W O O L T R A C K
Getting too comfortable is the enemy of new experiences. Get out of your comfort zone with these watches inspired by the classic “tonneau” or barrel-shaped case. Quirky, sporty and surprisingly refined, they’re similar enough to your standard dive or sport watches to be familiar, but aesthetically unique enough to stand out. Likewise, a weekend outfit of tailored cashmere sweats and avant-garde sneakers is a step beyond the comfort zone of everyday while remaining imminently wearable.
SUPERWATCH
FLIPPING COOL Rotating prisms tell time in the MCT Sequential Two S200 BY ARIEL ADAMS
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he pinnacle of watchmaking isn’t about precious metal or rare stones, but rather mechanics. High-end horology is where creative engineers and watchmakers strive to dazzle and delight niche collectors with timepieces that blend exotic designs with novel mechanical means of displaying the time, and frequently days, months, moonphases, power reserves and other handy bits of information as well. Despite containing a mechanical engine produced from 507 individual parts, the Sequential Two S200 watch by Switzerland-based MCT displays only the time with hours and minutes. The concept also defies what most watchmakers see as their primary mission: to produce a watch that is as functional as
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SUPERWATCH
possible, with the least number of parts. In fact, most any engineer will tell you that the fewer parts you use in a machine, the better. Ultra high-end watchmaking, however, is more concerned with complexity, craftsmanship and exclusivity. When MCT’s movement designer, Denis Giguet, developed the Sequential One timepiece, his goal was to create a way of reading the time that was simple, legible and, most importantly, novel. One of the marks of the high-end timepiece world is the use of discs, tank treads and even liquid to tell time—the more obscure and fantastical the better. Five years in development Giguet’s Sequential Two S200 utilizes a traditional minute hand with a “prism indicator” for the hours. A horseshoe-style segment rotates around the dial, framing the prism, which displays the hours. At the end of each
hour, the horseshoe moves 45 degrees to the next set of prisms, which quickly flip to display the correct hour. Each of the four sets of prisms offers three numerals, and together they can display all 12 hours throughout the day. Simply adjusting the time in a Sequential Two S200 timepiece is a delight for those who appreciate precision mechanics—especially because just enough of the mechanism is visible through the dial to watch it work. With a 44mm case (available in either 18k rose or white gold with elements of titanium), the Sequential Two S200 is remarkably wearable for such a complex instrument. Deciding to invest the $98,500 USD in an MCT Sequential Two S200 isn’t about buying a piece of history or displaying flamboyant wealth, but rather about having the ability to make a statement on your wrist that you value the ultimate combination of mechanics and design in a useful tool.
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WATCH 101
UNCOMPLICATING THE COMPLICATION
What the heck is a drift angle calculator, anyway? BY JUSTIN MASTINE-FROST
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well-designed watch is the perfect intersection of style and functionality. Not only does it look great on your wrist, it’s also a useful instrument—a watch, even in the age of the smartphone, is still often the most immediate means of keeping track of the time. But chances are the watch on your wrist is capable of more, sometimes much more. As watch technology has advanced over the years, mechanical watches have become capable of displaying all kinds of information—from calendars that only need to be adjusted once a century to second time zones to altitude and depth. In the watch world, these added features (everything other than hours and minutes on your watch) are known as complications. Here’s how to put yours to good use.
GMT The GMT (short for Greenwich Mean Time) is by far the most common and perhaps the most practical of the bunch. Whether you work on the west coast and have dealings in NYC or you travel frequently and want to keep track of the time at home, a GMT watch has you covered. One set of hands is used to indicate your local time, and an independent hand is used to indicate the time in a second time zone set on a 24-hour scale. In addition, many GMT watches display their 24-hour scale in two distinct colours, allowing its wearer to distinguish at a quick glance whether the second time zone indicated is presently in the a.m. or p.m.
Chanel J12 Chromatic GMT, (Price Upon Request)
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MOONPHASE These often elaborately painted indicators will display the various stages of the moon’s waxing and waning across the night sky, and although not the most practically useful of complications, they’re still quite beautiful to look at. The moonphase seldom translates to more modern and casual timepieces, but remains a staple in classic dress watch collections.
Zenith Captain Moonphase ($15,400)
PERPETUAL CALENDAR Calendar functions in standard watches are practical; however, there’s always that fuss every time February or a 30-day month rolls around. Perpetual calendar complications go a step beyond this, having the ability to jump ahead the necessary days to maintain an accurate calendar for a century or more.
A Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual ($142,700)
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WATCH 101
DRIFT ANGLE CALCULATOR While it’s mainly useful for pilots, the design of the two external bezels makes the drift calculator timepiece quite the bold piece of wrist candy. The goal of a drift angle calculator is to compensate for wind blowing at an airplane from a lateral angle, which would push it off course. By entering the wind direction on one bezel, and the bearing via the second, the drift angle calculator will indicate how far a pilot needs to countersteer to stay on course.
Hamilton Khaki X-Wind Limited Edition ($2,425)
RATTRAPANTE Otherwise known as a split-seconds chronograph, a rattrapante contains two separate stopwatch mechanisms, which allow its user to time multiple events at once. In the case of Panerai’s new Luminor 1950 Rattrapante 8 Days Titanio the main chronograph operates as a monopusher design that will start, stop, and reset using the pusher at the 8 o’clock position, while the pusher at 10 o’clock operates the second stopwatch mechanism. Useful for timing head-tohead races—or steaks.
Panerai Luminor 1950 Rattrapante 8 Days Titanio ($25,800)
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RETROSPECTIVE
T H A T WA T C H T H O U G H A celebration of form and function in Sharp: The Book for Men ______
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harp’s biannual men’s luxury bible, The Book for Men, is a celebration of the finest things in the world—clothes, cars, gadgets, destinations and, yes, watches. And while the timepieces featured in these shots are stunning and singular in themselves, we couldn’t just leave it at that. These highlights show what happens when beautiful lines meet seductive curves in the best possible way.
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HUBLOT KEY OF TIME $260,000 / Photograph by Michael David Adams
THE CONCORD C1 QUANTUM GRAVITY TOURBILLON $525,000 / Photograph by Mario Miotti
RICHARD MILLE RM 020 POCKET WATCH $475,000 / Photograph by Kourosh Keshiri
URWERK 103 $71,000 / Photograph by Kourosh Keshiri
ROGER DUBUIS SKELETON DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON $288,000 /Photograph by Vincent Lions
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33 DEVON TREAD 1 $19,500 / Photograph by Trevor Brady
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AUDEMARS PIGUET EDWARD PIGUET TOURBILLON LARGE DATE $275,000 / Photograph by Vincent Lions
HAUTLENCE HL TI POCKET WATCH $57,300 / Photograph by Trevor Brady MB&F HM3 STARCRUISER WATCH $92,000 / Photograph by Kourosh Keshiri
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ICONS
Pilot's Watch
THOSE DAPPER MEN IN THEIR FLYING MACHINES How the aviation watch soared from cockpit instrument to style statement
1909
BY ARIEL ADAMS
Among the first major records in aviation was Frenchman Louis Blériot’s 1909 flight over the English Channel. He crossed 31 miles of open water, taking 40 minutes to reach Dover from Calais at an altitude between 150 and 300 feet. The Zenith watch he wore possessed the DNA that most future pilot's watches inherited: a luminous dial and hands for readability, oversized Arabic numerals, a large crown for turning when wearing gloves, a bi-metallic, anti-magnetic hairspring and a case that could be attached to the plane’s instrument panel.
1904 The Wright Brothers are credited as the first to achieve sustained manned flight, but the prize for creating the first pilot’s watch goes to Cartier, who created a timepiece for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. Santos-Dumont, needing a watch that could be worn on his wrist (thereby allowing him to keep his hands on his airplane’s controls during flight), asked Cartier for help, and their response was to create the Santos, likely also the world’s first wristwatch. It was not only Santos who had issues with reaching into his pocket to check the time; therefore, many early pilot's watches (essentially pocket watches attached to long straps) were not worn on the wrist but around the thigh. Many early pilot's watches, including those from Doxa and Omega, were designed to be screwed into a socket on the cockpit’s instrument panel.
1927 In the early morning of Friday, May 20, 1927, 25-year-old Charles Lindbergh took off in the Spirit of St. Louis bound for Le Bourget Airport near Paris, France. After becoming the first man to fly solo non-stop across the Atlantic, Lindbergh worked with Longines to develop new watches that could be used by pilots when navigating over the oceans. Lindbergh and Longines worked on creating the so-called Hour Angle watch. It allowed pilots to more easily determine the Hour Angle, used for finding longitude based on Greenwich Mean Time and determining their position over open water. 36 T IME & ST Y LE
1954 The GMT-Master II by Rolex was designed for (and to some extent by) Pan-Am airline pilots who required an easily legible watch that could track the time at their present location as well as at their base. The two-toned bezel features 24-hour markings, allowing the wearer to know the exact time in a second time zone without losing track of whether that time is a.m. or p.m.
1952 In 1952, Breitling originally released its now-iconic Navitimer watch collection, which were timepieces designed for pilots that had a slide rule calculator rotating bezel. In the days before electronic calculators, pilots could use slide rules to calculate everything from fuel consumption to metric conversions.
2014 Swiss brand Oris has been making pilots watches since 1938, but its greatest achievement to date is the new Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter—a selfwinding mechanical watch featuring a barometric altimeter that can measure altitude up to 15,000 feet. 37 T IME & ST Y LE
WOMEN 1.
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uying the right piece of jewelry for the woman in your life requires planning, research and subtlety. Choose the wrong thing and it was all for naught. The editors of S/Style & Fashion have taken out the guesswork. Now, grab your credit card and get moving.
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3. Lisa Felepchuk, Editor-in-Chief
1. FRED LEIGHTON 1960S 18-KARAT GOLD DIAMOND RING If you don’t know Fred Leighton, you’re missing out—and so is your lady. Fred Leighton offers a well-curated collection of vintage and estate jewelry ranging from 18th-century emerald-encrusted earrings to chunky ’60s rings, like this 18-karat gold-and-diamond piece. Generally there’s only one available, which makes each a gift for someone truly special. $9,500 at net-a-porter.com
2. CHANEL PREMIÈRE GOLD CHAIN WATCH Timeless and elegant just like the iconic 2.55 quilted handbag that it draws design inspiration from, Chanel’s Première gold chain watch makes an unforgettable gift. In addition to its versatility, this timepiece is the perfect weight for a woman with a slender wrist. Price on request.
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3. DIAMOND 11 ROSE BROWN SILK SILVER BRACELET Extravagant, look-at-me jewelry is not every woman’s forte. Try, instead, a simple silk woven bracelet that is subtle, yet still incredibly sophisticated. It can be worn alone or layered with an existing collection of bangles and fine bracelets. $1,640
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7. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS PEARLÉE COLLECTION Stacking rings from the Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée collection feature a delicate “strand-of-pearls” motif in yellow, rose or white gold. They’re sure to suit the tastes of a refined woman who enjoys accessories with a light touch of whimsy. $900
8. EBEL X-1 WATCH White ceramic will always look crisp and elegant on a woman’s wrist, and this watch by Ebel makes a great gift. Add to that a 48-diamond bezel, 15-diamond crown and a diamond-embellished face and you’ve got a winning combination. $6,500
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9. VICKISARGE BURMA ROSE GOLD-PLATED SWAROVSKI CRYSTAL CUFF This starburst-themed Swarovski crystal cuff by Vickisarge is a gift that’s as show-stopping as the woman you’ll give it to. Inspired by the tribal women of Burma, this strong, stand-out piece isn’t for the faint of heart. $1,120
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4. GC FEMME BIJOU A polished rose-gold case and white mother-of-pearl dial, with the added resiliency of a PVD coating and sapphire crystal, make this timepiece the ideal combination of elegance and strength, just like your lady. $575
5. SWAROVSKI BLOSSOM CUFF Every woman needs a collection of go-to accessories she can rely on. Impress her with this eye-catching Swarovski cuff that delivers with its jewel-tone crystal beads and architectural exterior. $475
6. PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER RING, 18K WHITE GOLD, EMERALDS, ONYX, DIAMONDS Jewelry has the power of updating a woman’s look instantly—some red lipstick doesn’t hurt either. This fierce ring from Cartier’s new Panthère de Cartier collection is anything but basic— it’s beautifully handcrafted and glitters with feline confidence. $79,000
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LAST SECOND
A BODYGUARD FOR YOUR WATCHES BY BIANCA TEIXEIRA
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ou travel in style, so why shouldn’t your watches? This doublewalled tube by DÖttling can safely store up to six wristwatches (as well as jewelry, cash and important documents). The cover can be made from any kind of fabric or exotic leather you choose. The tube is secured via four carbon-steel locking bolts and a three-digit code and is composed of a layer of metal (almost as hard as diamond and impervious to conventional drills or saws) and a layer of nearly indestructible polycarbonate. Finally, the Guardian contains a built-in GPS transmitter for easy location in the event it slips out of your hands. The only thing better would be having Liam Neeson on speed dial. $17,500 42 T IME & ST Y LE