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C A N A D A ’ S
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T O
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T I M E P I E C E S
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The World’s Most
LUXURIOUS AND EXOTIC WATCHES PLUS: Stunning timepieces for all occasions: Diving Watches, Black on Black, Dress Watches, Sport Chronographs • Desk Candy for your den Museum-worthy pens • Star Watch: What Leonardo DiCaprio wears
El Toro Patented Perpetual Calendar. Self-winding movement. 18 ct rose gold case with ceramic bezel. Water-resistant to 100 m. Also available in platinum. Limited to 500 pieces. W W W . U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M
EDITOR’S LET TER
Investing in Time and Style www.timeandstyle.ca
—— ED ITO RIA L John McGouran | Publisher Michael La Fave Editorial and Creative Director Carol Besler | Watch Editor Evan Kaminsky | Art Director Jeremy Freed | Managing Editor Leo Petaccia | Associate Editor Contributing Writer Matt Currie Letters to the editor: letters@contempomedia.ca
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t a recent dinner, I asked a group of watch enthusiasts what advice they would give to a novice collector. A debate ensued about what to spend, where to buy and how to decide on the perfect watch, until one sage reasoned: “The most expensive watch you will ever own is the one you buy to replace the urge for the one you really want. Don’t settle.” This is sound advice, from both a financial and an aesthetic point of view. A good watch can be an investment, but it would be wrong to assume it will automatically appreciate in value as though it were, say, a new condo in a transitional neighborhood. If you buy shrewdly or hold on to something long enough, you might do well in the pre-owned watch market, but buying watches strictly for investment can end in frustration and saddle you with a collection you will never enjoy. The idea of owning several watches is to enjoy wearing them and, above all, to look good in them. People ask me all the time if watches are outdated because “people can just look at their phones.” Sure, but wouldn’t you rather glance at (and show off) a beautiful, prestigious timepiece than drag out your utilitarian phone? Plus, checking your phone is not particularly subtle; there are times when you don’t want to be caught checking the time. Ultimately, though, watches are as much about style as they are about time, and both of those elements will always be worth investing in.
Carol Besler, Watch Editor
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A DVERTIS ING Jeff McCann Senior Account Manager 416-854-3619 jeff.mccann@contempomedia.ca Vincent Noël québec regional manager 514-566-6874 vincent@contempomedia.ca
—— Time & Style is published by Contempo Media Inc. No part of this publication may be copied or reprinted without the express written consent of the publisher.
Contempo Media Inc. 370 Queen’s Quay West, Suite 100 Toronto, ON M5V 3J3 416-591-0093 Volume 3, Issue 1, Dec-Jan 2011
1860
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Edouard Heuer founded his workshop in the Swiss Jura.
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First mechanical stopwatch accurate to 1/100th of a second.
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First automatic chronograph.
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TAG Heuer CARRERA Calibre 16 Day Date.
2010
1.877.444.0824 www.tagheuer.com
News
Dispatches from the World of Timepieces
Time for charity —
Peking to Paris with FrÉdÉrique Constant —
TAG reinvents time —
Participants in the five-week Pekingto-Paris car rally, sponsored by watch brand Frédérique Constant, were happy to finish the race in Place Vendôme in October, after trekking over 14,360 kilometres of rough roads (or no roads) through 11 countries— particularly one entry, a Lancia Theta, which broke down five times en route.
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ive years after being introduced as a concept watch, TAG Heuer’s revolutionary Monaco V4 is now in production. The V4 is the first watch to function via a system of transmission belts and pulleys instead of the usual pinions and wheels that comprise the gear train of a traditional watch movement. TAG spent years alloying its own rubber compound for the belts to make them resistant to wear, vibration and extreme temperatures. The V4 is platinum and limited to 150 pieces, priced at $80,000.
Watch enthusiasts poured into auctioneer Antiquorum’s New York showroom in October to bid on several outstanding, special-edition timepieces created to benefit the National Multiple Sclerosis Society. Highlights included a Hublot Big Bang Aero, a semiskeletonized ceramic and 18k gold chronograph; a Zenith El Primero “Striking Tenth” chronograph; and a Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase. The auction raised US$253,000. CB
The watchmaker’s watchmaker —
Antiquorum watch expert, auctioneer and company director Charles Tearle at the special auction for MS in New York. Tearle was in Toronto recently to talk watches with collectors from TimeZone.com.
Francois Paul Journe, considered the best watchmaker in the world by his peers and collectors alike, was in Toronto recently to commemorate the availability (in limited numbers) of his brand, F.P. Journe, in Canada. He was the guest of Louis Kostopoulos, a long-time watch connoisseur and collector turned retailer—now president of Louis Black Jewellers, which will carry the watches. Kostopoulos held a dinner for Journe, attended by 60 watch enthusiasts anxious to gape at some of the creations Journe brought along, including a $600,000 Grand Sonnerie Minute Repeater, a watch that took six years to create and holds 10 patents. Journe is the winner of six Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards, the most prestigious award in watchmaking (another four of his inventions are nominated this year). Only the lucky few can indulge in an F.P. Journe. The workshop makes fewer than 900 watches per year, at a core price range of $16,000 to $130,000.
The Hublot Big Bang Aero was created especially for the Antiquorum auction for MS. The case is black ceramic with a rose gold bezel, and the dial is open-worked. It sold for $23,000.
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AR 2015 - AR 2012
aCCESSORIES
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deskToP decadence Five pieces of sumptuous desk candy. —— 1. Dior iPad Case The iPad is an undeniably impressive feat of technological engineering. Should you feel the need to protect yours from wobbling coffee mugs and other desktop hazards, you’ll need a protective case that’s just as impressive. Look no further than Dior Homme. Available in Black Tie Leather or Classic Coated Canvas, this product functions as a standard notepad case on one side and an iPad case on the other. Elegant and refined, it’s a fitting home for a device of the iPad’s sophistication. From $470 2. Purisme Letter Opener Like most people, you no doubt open most of your mail with the click of a mouse and therefore have little practical need of a letter opener. But until letter mail becomes officially obsolete, you’ll need something sharp to open those envelopes, and there’s nothing more stylish than this offering from Purisme. Crafted entirely from carbon fibre and weighing just seven grams, its ultra-sleek aesthetics will beautify your desktop, regardless of how much mail you end up opening. $215
3. Roland Iten Card Dispenser RCD 81 There are undoubtedly much simpler, more practical options for housing your business or credit cards than Roland Iten’s intricately mechanized dispenser. But you’d be hard-pressed to introduce yourself with more style. It comes in your choice of gold or titanium body, sporting a trigger mechanism that causes the stored cards to pop out and retract at the push of a button. Moreover, the surface of the aluminum inner case is primed for engraving your initials, adding even more uniqueness to an already singular accessory. From $7,275 4. ID Titanium Mouse In all likelihood, the mouse currently sitting on your desk can be accurately described as a piece of fairly cheap-looking plastic. However, as Dutch manufacturer Intelligent Design shows us, it could be so much more. Hand-crafted from Grade 1 Titanium and high-quality plastic resin into a unique eyecatching form, it’s a cutting edge Bluetooth wireless navigation tool that takes the form of an elegantly wrought work of art. $560 5. Herman Miller Ardea Desk Lamp A light source is one thing where functionality should not be compromised for appearance’s sake, and the Herman Miller Ardea combines the best of both worlds. Designer Yves Béhar was inspired by the necks of herons, to create an infinitely adjustable lamp that’s sleek and modern, but with a distinct natural influence. $400 By Matt Currie 8 T IME & ST Y LE
CARMEN INC. WWW.CARMENCO.COM TOLL-FREE 1-888-825-0527
ing :-( 1 in 4 car accidents are caused by mobile devices‌ there should be a law against driving :-( 1 in 4
aCCESSORIES
Writing Instruments
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The genTleman’s Pen 3. Dunhill’s Sentryman Meteorite Rollerball A limited edition entry in London-based Dunhill’s Sentryman line, the Meteorite pen derives its name and hefty price tag from a lacquer finish comprised of crushed black diamonds as well as actual meteorite rocks collected from Argentina. A distinctly masculine tool, the meteorite finish on this rollerball is complemented by a black PVD finish on the brass clip and detailing. To call it “out of this world” would be a touch hyperbolic but nonetheless accurate. $1,800
Take note: When it comes making a statement of style in your office or study, there s no better ornament than a finely crafted pen. —— 1. Waterman’s The Marks of Time Among the elite in Waterman’s innovative Exception line are The Marks of Time. Sporting a highly distinctive quadrangular body decorated by swirling lines that emulate flowing water, The Marks of Time fountain pens are crafted from a bar of sterling silver, which is honed and polished before being dipped in either nickel palladium or 24-carat gold (creating vermeil); it’s topped off by an engraved 18 carat gold nib. Limited edition production runs mean that only 1000 Vermeil copies and 1500 Sterling Silver copies have been produced. From $1,650 2. Faber-Castell’s Pen of the Year 2010 The design of Faber-Castell’s Pen of the Year 2010 is based on highquality handcrafted rifles owned by an ancestor of the pen maker. The barrel consists of seasoned Caucasian walnut wood juxtaposed against engraved case-hardened metal parts with 24 carat gold inlay; the most intriguing element of construction is the case-hardening, a rarely used process that was also widely employed in the 1800s in high-quality rifle construction, creating a unique “shimmering” effect on the surface of the metal. A fountain pen built like a 19th century rifle—need we say more? $2,510
4. Montblanc’s Meisterstuck Solitaire Platinum-Plated Facet The appeal of this singular entry in the German penmaker’s Meisterstück line isn’t difficult to pin down. Platinum plated from barrel to cap, the surface is defined by a matte of unique rectangular facets, creating a grenade-like texture with a uniform metallic shine. An unmistakably masculine totem that’s equal parts power and elegance. Available in fountain, rollerball and ballpoint, it’s the weapon of choice for the high-powered businessman. From $955 5. Cartier’s Roadster A single glance at this distinctly masculine utensil from Cartier’s latest line should be enough to convince you that “Roadster” is the only name that would do. The all-black composite barrel and cap, mixed with the palladium finished clip and details, unmistakably channel the bulbous steel bodies and chrome fenders of classic mid-20th century autos. Available in fountain, rollerball and ballpoint. From $390 By Matt Currie
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INTRODUCING BULOVA PRECISIONIST THE WORLD’S MOST ACCURATE WATCH WITH A CONTINUOUSLY SWEEPING SECOND HAND
Most quartz watches are accurate to 15 seconds a month - Bulova Precisionist is accurate to 10 seconds a year. The key is Precisionist’s unique three-prong quartz crystal, which produces a vibration frequency of 262.144 kilohertz (kHz), eight times greater than the usual two-prong crystal and the highest of any watch available today. And, the innovative design of the Precisionist movement reduces the effects of temperature variation without using a high maintenance thermo-regulating integrated circuit. The result is a watch that is extraordinarily precise, yet so easy to operate.
CLAREMONT COLLECTION
www.bulova.com
DESIGN
Dress Watches 1
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dressed for dinner The perfect companion to a welltailored suit and a pair of fine cufflinks. ——
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here are times when bells and whistles— helium valves, jumbo bezels, tritiumcovered markers and cluttered subdials— should be eschewed in favor of something more understated. A black tie dinner, say, or any dinner short of an athletic victory, requires a watch that is as blithely in repose as you are; off the clock, so to speak. If you must wear a sports watch, let it be something subtle and subdued, like the TAG Heuer Vintage Monaco because, depending on how long dinner lasts, a proper dress watch should be the most sober thing in the room. CB
1. Perfect for a grey suit, the TAG Heuer Vintage Monaco Heuer chronograph with date window is stainless steel, with a punched black calfskin strap and a sapphire caseback showing the automatic movement. $5,200 2. Rolex, better known for its Submariner and Datejust models, is also the inventor of the classic Cellini Prince collection, inspired by a 1920s design, with hours on one side of the winding stem and minutes on the other. It contains a manually wound mechanical movement. $17,950 3. The classic Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Minute Onyx, with a central hour and minute track and a seconds 12 T IME & ST Y LE
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subdial, both without numerals. The dial is onyx and the case is stainless steel. It contains a proprietary automatic movement with 68-hour power reserve. $13,900 4. The Memovox is a classic JaegerLeCoultre model, first introduced in the 1950s. The case is stainless steel and the movement is an automatic with an alarm function, set by a crown at 2 o’clock, and a date window. $9,600 5. A subtle seconds subdial adorns the dial of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5124, from the deco-styled Gondolo collection. It is cased in yellow gold, with a manually-wound mechanical movement. $20,800
Chronographs
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TECHNOLOGY
good Timing The most popular complication in the world of horology is the chronograph, the ubiquitous stopwatch. Here are a few that perform as well as they look.
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he chronograph was invented in 1821 to time horse races, but has since evolved to track much faster animals, such as Olympic swimmers and Formula 1 racers. The importance of tracking kamikaze drivers notwithstandng, the chronograph’s real currency is its function as an element of style. No other category of watches incorporates as many options in terms of design or technology. Aficionados can choose between split-seconds, flyback, two-dial, three-dial, retrograde, column-wheel, chronometer-certified and even digital chronographs that can track time to 1/10th, 1/100th and even 1/1,000th of a second. The chrono can be anything: cased in 18k gold or two-tone gold and steel, it becomes a dress watch; for a tougher look, opt for a titanium chrono with a crown protector and pushers big enough to necessitate letting out your cuffs. There is no better horological venue in which to express your individual style. CB
1. The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussic is named for the watchmaker who invented the chronograph in 1821. It contains the brand’s first in-house, proprietary movement, a hand-wound mechanical calibre. It also has a second time zone, a day/night indicator, and a “smiling bridge” between totalizers. Steel case with anthracite dial. $10,120 2. The Ralph Lauren Sporting Chrono contains an automatic movement made by Jaeger-LeCoultre, a fellow Richemont brand. The case is stainless steel and the white dial is applied with elegant Roman numerals. A tachymeter scale circles the bezel. $7,300 3. The Tudor Heritage Chrono is inspired by the Tudor Oysterdate 13 T IME & ST Y LE
chrono from the ’70s. It is a two-dial chrono with minutes totalizer and small seconds, featuring stylized curved shoulders protecting the crown, knurled bezel and shield-motif markers. $4,245 4. The curved case band and arched bezel of the Longines Flagship Heritage was inspired by a 1954 vintage model. It’s a three-hand chrono with detailed chapter ring and an automatic movement in a steel case. $8,500 5. The Concord Tech is PVD steel and 18k rose gold, with eight black rubber protectors on the bezel. A ribbed guilloché dial is overlapped by a metal grid for a multi-level look. It contains an automatic movement and is waterresistant to 200 metres. $16,900
TECHNOLOGY
Diving Watches
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nauTical sTaTemenTs You can t do anything about the lumpy wetsuit or face-distorting scuba mask, but these dive watches will not only time your dive, but help you shine underwater, too. ——
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ost of us think of a chronograph function as the defining characteristic of the sports watch, but according to Swiss authorities, a watch cannot officially be defined as a sports watch unless it has at least 100-metre water-resistance. If you’re a stickler for rules and you want to pass the sports watch test, then any of these watches, all rated at depths well below 100 metres, will qualify. Most also perform one or more of the additional standard functions of a diving watch, including a unidirectional rotating bezel, adjustable strap to fit over a wetsuit, screwdown locking crown and caseback, heavily luminated hands and markers or a helium valve for diving daredevils. CB
1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver, with unidirectional inner bezel with locked-crown 1 function, luminescent hands (on both top and sides), shock and magnetic resistance construction (in case of approaching submarines), and an adjustable pin buckle strap to fit over wetsuits. Water-resistant to 300 metres. Stainless steel case with in-house movement. $15,100 2. Baume & Mercier Riviera XXL diver’s watch, with a 43mm steel case, and silver dial, and a unidirectional rotating bezel. It also includes a chronograph function, with hour and minute totalizers and small seconds subdial, as well as date and tachymeter. The steel bracelet has a triple folding clasp. Water-resistant to 200 metres. $4,290 3. Ulysse Nardin’s Hammerhead Shark diver’s watch is a salute to the brand’s background in marine chronometers. The titanium case is engraved with the 14 T IME & ST Y LE
form of the hammerhead shark. It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, luminous indexes, a small seconds and date at 6 o’clock and a power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. It is waterresistant to 200 metres. $8,900 4. The Bulova Precisionist, part of the brand’s high-performance Champlain Collection, features a screw-back case, double screw-down crown and continuously sweeping second hand that’s accurate to 10 seconds a year. The dial is carbon fibre and includes a date function, and the hands are luminous. Water-resistant to 300 metres. $650 5. The Longines HydroConquest diving watch is a large, 47.5mm watch, with stainless-steel case and black rubber strap, with adjustable diving buckle. Hands and markers are treated with superluminova, case and crown are screwed down and the rotating bezel is unidirectional. With chronograph and date functions. Water-resistant to 300 metres. $3,100
Black Watches
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FaSHION
arT of darkness Black on black has never looked better than on these high-performance timepieces. ——
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he blacked-out chrono is the ultimate fashion statement, a sign that, secure in the knowledge that your powerful watch is capable of split-seconds timing, you don’t care that you can’t see where the subdials end and the markers begin. The important thing is that it looks great with everything. (The index, hands and markers on these timers are treated with a glow-in-the-dark luminescent coating, in case you really do, on occasion, need to read the time.) CB
1. The Hublot King Power is high complication with a flying tourbillon movement and chronograph function. The case is black ceramic and rubber with H-shaped, PVD-coated titanium screws. The bracelet is ceramic and PVD steel. $160,000 2. The TX 600 Pilot Flyback is a six-hand movement, including retrograde flyback chronograph function, a second time zone, date window and tachymeter scale. The case is steel with a screw-down crown, for water-resistance to 100 metres. $695 15 T IME & ST Y LE
3. The case of the Franc Vila Fva8 Dark Side is black PVD, with black motherof-pearl and guilloché dial, with black hands. It contains an automatic chronograph movement with date function. $23,000 4. The Bell & Ross Instrument BR03 Phantom is a two-dial chronograph with minute totalizer and small seconds. The case is steel with a vacuum carbon finish. It is water-resistant to 100 metres and contains an automatic movement. The strap is rubber and synthetic canvas. $4,400
FOR HER
Women s Watches
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The righT waTch for The righT woman Does the woman on your arm have something decent on her wrist? Six new watches she ll love. ——
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adies’ watches started out as petite versions of men’s watches, until some wag in the watch industry observed that if there is one thing we know about women, it is that they are not petite versions of men. Then all hell broke loose. A barrage of flowered dials, hot pink straps and confusing bracelet attachments ensued, making it embarrassing to buy a watch for your wife or sister, or especially your mother, not to mention having to be seen with her wearing it. Fortunately things have come full circle and it is now possible for a woman to wear a great watch that is as dignified, powerful and sensible as a man’s—only slightly more petite. CB
1. The Rolex two-tone red gold and steel Ladies Datejust contains an automatic proprietary movement, with the brand’s classic logo crown, cyclops date window and distinctive bracelet. The bezel is set with 24 diamonds and the Roman numeral at six o’clock is set with 11 diamonds. $8,970 2. The Ebel Classic is a two-tone 18k pink gold and steel watch, with diamond accents (42 on the bezel and 11 diamond markers) and a mother-ofpearl dial. It contains a mechanical automatic movement with date function. $6,950 3. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 for ladies is the perfect example of a dress/sport watch. In ceramic and stainless steel, with a mother-of-pearl dial and a bezel set with a row of diamonds. The movement is quartz. $1,700
4. The 29 mm Chanel J12 for ladies has become a modern classic. The case and bracelet are black ceramic over steel. Black lacquered dial is set with eight diamond indexes. The movement is quartz. $5,600 5. The Longines Prima Luna is 18k rose gold and steel, with classic Roman numerals and blued-steel hands, 44 diamonds on the bezel and flinqué (guilloched) dial. The movement is a mechanical automatic. $5,650 6. Thomas Sabo designs watches with fashion in mind, including the Sport Chronograph, an oversized (44 mm) ladies’ watch. The case is highgloss black ceramic and steel, with a steel bezel. A two-layer dial with cross pattern adds dimension. The watch is a quartz chronograph, with small seconds, minute and hour totalizers. $1,340
Diamonds not your girl’s best friend? Several options and price points are available for most of these, including all-steel, all gold, fully set or without diamonds.
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©2010 Ebel - www.ebel.com - Ref 1215607
1201 – 17TH Ave SW 1-866-245-3131 www.CalgaryJewellery.com
EBEL BRASILIA
COvER STORY
HIGH TIMERS Ultimate pieces for the serious collector ——
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very collector has a Grail watch, the one special piece for which he would happily consider trading all other treasures in his collection. Although criteria vary widely at this level of collecting, qualifying elements include proprietary movements, multiple complications, aesthetic bravado (kick-ass design) and employment of one or more of watchmaking’s métiers d’art—micro-engraving, enameling, gemsetting and other forms of careful extravagance. Here is a taste of watchmaking’s most elite. By Carol Besler
18 T IME & ST Y LE
MB&F hM4 Thunderbolt The case of the fourth Horological Machine from the master watchmaker “Friends” of independent watchmaking impresario Max Büsser (MB&F stands for Max Büsser & Friends) is composed of 65 components arranged in an egregiously imaginative jet-engine twin-pod configuration. Five crystals offer multiple views of the 311-component movement, including two mainspring barrels and two separate gear trains. $158,000
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COvER STORY
High Timers
Urwerk UR-CC1 Black Cobra In this idiosyncratic masterpiece, retrograde minutes and hours are tracked on a pair of cylinders, while a seconds index stretches out in a linear display by means of a rotating disk. The Black Cobra is the latest example of Urwerk’s always-eccentric interpretation of timekeeping. The luminescent-treated yellow numerals and indicators stand out against a black anthracite background. The case is brushed white gold, with a titanium baseplate. $288,000
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Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo The Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo flying tourbillon has no hands and no crown, but lots of teeth. The openworked movement’s technical claim to fame is the hairspring and escapement wheels made of silicium, a temperature- and pressure-resistant silicon that eliminates the need for lubrication and improves accuracy. The pivoting escapement does a complete rotation on its axis every 60 seconds, hence the attached arrow, harnessed to indicate seconds. The case is uniquely crown-free, so to wind it, turn the lower bezel; to adjust the time, turn the upper bezel. The case is 18k white gold. $140,000
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Cover Story
High Timers
Cartier Rotonde Tourbillon Squelette This is a flying tourbillon, which means the rotating escapement is cantilevered from a base instead of sandwiched between two bridges. The result is the impression that the tourbillon cage is suspended in air, an effect heightened by the skeletonized movement and main plate, carved in the shape of Roman numerals. Even the barrel at 12 o’clock is skeletonized, exposing the mainspring. The case is 18k white gold. $139,000
On the Cover
Christophe Claret Dual Tow Night Eagle The movement of this patented monopoussoir planetary-gear chronograph and tourbillon is open-worked, revealing bridges and a mainplate made of blacktinted synthetic sapphire and unique, mechanical-digital minute and hour belts. The components, including the levers driving the chronograph mechanism, are unique to Claret’s workshop, as are the tools used to machine them. $540,000
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