Guide Me Issue 51 - October/November 2013

GUIDE ME 51

october/November 2013 ₏3 the official visitors’ guide of the malta hotels and restaurants association

OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2013

Property in Malta

Foreigners opting for charming old houses

a showcase of malta

Cover story Discovering the islands on foot

gozo

Developing into a destination in its own right

signs

from the past Intriguing old shop signs Find out more about the major events this autumn

cuisine

Cooking with seasonal ingredients

latest fashion trends

Your guide to EVENTS | fashion | EATING & DRINKING | SHOPPING

inside

October & November 10 Events A list of the major events taking place in the months of October and November.

13 Cover Story Discovering the Islands on Foot – Sarah Micallef entices you to put on your walking boots and discover parts of the islands that most do not get to see.

19 Heritage Signs from the Past – Three creative individuals are intrigued by the old shop signs found on buildings in the islands’ towns and village. Sarah Micallef catches up with them to find out more about their project.

p13 Content House Group, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Mriehel QRM3000 Tel: +356 21320713 Fax: +356 21320714 E-mail: info@contenthouse.com.mt Website: www.contenthouse.com.mt

EDITOR Isabel Depasquale

PRINTERS Progress Press Ltd

PUBLISHERS Content House Group ADVERTISING

DESIGN/PHOTOGRAPHY Art Direction & Design SWITCH Design & Brand Strategy Tel: +356 21316770

Advertising Sales Coordinator Lindsey Ciantar

Photography Malta Tourism Authority, Ed Dingli, Alan Paris, Nicky Scicluna, Richard Muscat Azzopardi

Advertising Sales Executives Matthew Spiteri Mark Barbara Diane Scerri Tel: +356 21320713

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cover picture foreigners opting for charming old houses

Guide Me is published every two months in Malta. The magazine is the official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association. The publication is distributed free of charge in the individual rooms of three, four and five star hotels. Guide Me is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta & Gozo. It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at The Valletta Waterfront and at Malta International Airport.

Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me are not necessarily those of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association or of Content House Limited and both organisations do not accept responsibility for editorial or advertising content.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

inside

31 Property A Treasure of a Home – Maltese townhouses and houses of character are charming spaces that are increasingly being sought after by locals and foreigners alike. Chiara Bonello talks to those in the know on the practicalities if you are interested in owning one.

45 Fashion On Trend this Autumn – Sarah Micallef provides advice on how best to wear this autumn’s top trends.

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50 Where to Spend It If you intend to shop in Malta, make sure to visit these shops.

53 Gozo Little Island: Incredible Destination – Jo Caruana travels to the idyllic island of Gozo to find out how the island is developing into a destination in its own right.

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58 Cuisine Autumn Delights – What’s in season at this time of year and how are these ingredients transformed into local recipes? Chiara Bonello provides some answers.

63 Eating & Drinking Some tips on where to wine and dine.

77 Nightlife Busy Night-time Scene – Guide Me sheds some light on the largest evening events taking place this October.

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82 Getting Around Tips on how to navigate your way around the islands.

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foreword

Welcome to Malta & Gozo

51.

The season’s first rains have the magical effect of transforming Malta’s dry and arid landscape to one that is lush, green and bursting with life. Although the islands have no mountains, rivers or forests to boast of, the countryside is pretty spectacular, characterised by terraced fields, wild flowers, stunning vistas, sheer cliffs, fertile valleys and so much more.

Indeed only around one-fifth of the islands is urbanised and the rest is undoubtedly best discovered on foot.

Protecting the country’s heritage is in fact high on the national agenda, particularly when it comes to the conservation and restoration of old properties. These are increasingly being sought-after by locals and foreigners alike, and transformed into lovely homes. In our Property section (see page 31) Chiara Bonello talks to some experts in case you too are keen on owning part of the islands’ heritage and invest in local old houses.

Visiting Malta on foot is the subject of our Cover Story (see page 13). In her article Sarah Micallef does not only focus on country walks, but also on walks around the islands’ towns and villages, as a means to immerse oneself in the locals’ way of life and truly appreciate the best that the Maltese islands have to offer.

There are several other reads to enjoy – from shedding light on what to look out for in the local shops if you want to be on trend to discovering all about what the locals eat at this time of year, from revealing how the charming island of Gozo is developing into a destination in its own right, to providing an outline of the top events taking place across the islands this season.

In another interesting article we focus on outdoor shop signage from the past (see page 19), which you are likely to encounter if you stroll around the country’s towns and villages. We catch up with three creative individuals who have made it their mission to collect and catalogue traditional Maltese typography in shop signage. The article sheds fascinating insight into part of the islands’ heritage.

Enjoy your visit!

Isabel Depasquale Editor

Photo by Mario Galea – viewingmalta.com

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C A L E N DA R O F E V E N TS 2 0 1 3 October 01-08 October

The Indian Film Festival – As part of the Days of India event, this unique activity celebrates cultural diversity and forges links between Malta and India. This year marks 100 years of Bollywood existence, and the event is intended to honour this rich and original cinema, about which misconceptions and stereotypes abound. Held under the auspices of the Indian Embassy in Libya and the Indian Community in Malta, the festival will form part of a week-long celebration honouring Indian culture. Entrance: €3. Venue: St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, Valletta. Email: info@sjcav.org

05 October

Notte Bianca – Once again the Valletta cityscape is set to be lit up with a spectacular nocturnal celebration of people, culture and arts. State palaces and museums will open their doors to the general public, hosting exhibitions and performances, while the streets and cultural venues will come alive with an assortment of entertainment. Cafés and restaurants will be open until late and food stalls and tables will occupy the streets. Venue: Valletta.

Email: info@nottebiancamalta.com

06 October

In Guardia Parade – A re-enactment portraying an authentic event that took place regularly inside important military fortifications in Malta and Gozo, it portrays the inspection of St John’s Cavalier in the town of Birgu and its garrison by the Grand Bailiff of the Order of the Knights of St John in charge of military affairs. The re-enactors

are kitted out in their finest uniforms and perform a military drill demonstrating to the Grand Bailiff the garrison’s state of readiness in the event of military threat. It is sometimes possible to visit part of the cavalier prior to or following the re-enactment. Shows last 45 minutes. Time: 11am. Venue: Birgu. Email: info@visitmalta.com

10-13 October

Mdina Grand Prix 2013 – In the picturesque setting beneath the Mdina bastions, this annual event is gaining international recognition, with participants from all over Europe taking part. Last year’s event was a huge success, with major coverage both locally and also by the international classic motorsport press. Enhancing the event were various local activities that continued to illustrate what Malta has to offer in terms of history and culture. This year’s event promises to be even more spectacular, with the programme being further extended by another day in order to accommodate more competitive and social gatherings. Venue: Mdina. Email: josef.abela@vallettagp.com

11 October

Malta Vs Czech Republic – Malta plays the Czech Republic on its home turf in a FIFA 2014 World Cup qualifying match in Group B which includes Italy, Denmark, Czech Republic, Bulgaria, Armenia and Malta. Time: 5pm. Venue: Ta’ Qali National Stadium. Email: info@mfa.com.mt

11-12 October

Strummin’ The Elements – This annual live music concert, featuring a guitar choir which raises funds for local charities, is a platform for young local talent and for developing

young people’s potential. This year’s proceeds will go to Hospice Malta. Time: 8pm. Venue: Sir Temi Zammit Hall, University of Malta, Msida. Email: bertu.cassar@gmail.com

11-13 October

Birgufest – Highlighting Birgu’s historic and architectural beauty, this annual event in one of Malta’s oldest and most historic cities sees the streets lit up by a gentle glow resulting from the thousands of candles set up especially for the occasion.

However, the aim of the event has widened considerably over time, offering numerous activities throughout the festival. From historic re-enactments to extended and cheaper museum entrance fees, and from the opening up to the public of other venues of interest including churches to food stalls offering both Maltese and other food, and various musical concerts ranging from classical to modern, as well as several exhibitions, this event is truly an outing with something to suit all tastes and ages.

Venue: Birgu. Email: birgu.lc@gov.mt

12 October

Falstaff – Verdi’s first and only comic opera promises some hearty laughs at the Aurora Theatre in Gozo this year. The Aurora Theatre is proud to have secured the services of world-renowned Italian baritone Paolo Gavanelli, who will be carrying the title role.

In the world of opera, Gavanelli has been lauded as “the foremost Verdi baritone of his generation – arguably the only truly authentic representative of this apparently dying breed active today” (Hugh Canning, Musicologist), receiving exceptional reviews for his performances at London’s Royal Opera House in Covent Garden. Time: 7.30pm.

For the full online Malta Calendar of Events please go to: www.visitmalta.com/events-calendar

Tickets may be purchased online from www.teatruaurora.com. Venue: Aurora Opera House, Gozo. Email: info@leone.org.mt

12-13 October

Malta Military Tattoo – The 10th Malta Military Tattoo provides a highly entertaining atmosphere with precision marching, formations, gymnastic displays and, above all, good music. The 2013 Tattoo will once again include foreign military bands and local massed pipes and drums band, the Malta Police Precision Drill team, the Malta Police Band and the Armed Forces of Malta Band. Time: 6pm. Venue: Malta Fairs and Conventions Centre (MFCC), Ta’ Qali. Email: booking@maltamilitarytattoo.org

19-26 October

Rolex Middle Sea Race – Often mentioned in the same breath as the Rolex Fastnet, The Rolex Sydney-Hobart and NewportBermuda as a ‘must-do’ race, the Rolex Middle Sea Race is a highly-rated offshore classic. Leaving from the Grand Harbour, just opposite the Saluting Battery in Valletta and Fort St Angelo in Birgu, thousands gather on either side of the harbour to enjoy the spectacle. Email: info@rmyc.org

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Spartacus – Live From The Bolshoi – Following the exploits of Spartacus, the leader of the slave uprising against the Romans, the ballet’s storyline takes considerable liberties with historical records. Khachaturian composed the ballet in 1954, and was awarded a Lenin Prize that same year. It was first staged, with choreography by Leonid Yakobson, in Leningrad in 1956, but only with qualified success since Yakobson abandoned

conventional pointe in his choreography. The ballet received its first staging at the Bolshoi Theatre, Moscow in 1958, choreographed

by Igor Moiseev; however it was the 1968 production, choreographed by Yury Grigorovich, which received the greatest acclaim. It remains one of Khachaturian’s best known works. Venue: Eden Cinemas, St Julian’s. Email: marketing@edenleisure.com

31 October-03 November

Malta International Choir Festival – The Malta International Choir Competition and Festival of Sacred and Secular Music, organised by the Ministry for Tourism, the Malta Tourism Authority and INTERKULTUR Foundation (Germany), is open to various categories of choirs hailing from all over the world. Performing at the festival are choirs of different vocal qualities, such as male, female, children’s and mixed, all singing a cappella. Venue: Valletta.

Email: martin.morana@visitmalta.com

November 11 November

Alarme – A military re-enactment portraying the historic and turbulent tenure of Malta

by French troops, the re-enactment gives an account of the French troops’ arrival in Malta, the subsequent attempt to administer the Maltese islands by the new Republican government, the rebellion of the Maltese that led to the blockade of the French troops inside the harbour towns, as well as the French troops’ surrender to the British in 1800. It may be possible to visit part of the cavalier prior to the re-enactment.

Time: 11am. Tickets: €7. Venue: St John’s Cavalier, Birgu. Email: info@visitmalta.com

30 November-01 December

Malta Comic Con 2013 – Comics, manga books, table top gaming, console gaming, art, cosplaying and more – all under one roof! With an impressive guest line up such as: Mike Carey, Ian Churchill, Guillermo Ortego, Federica D. Nardo and many more, this will surely be a memorable weekend.

Workshops, films, discussion panels and more will be held every hour and people will have the opportunity to talk to the artists, buy their comics and merchandise, as well as getting them signed exclusively.

People who dress up as TV, comic, cartoon or anime characters can also take part in the Cosplay Competition held on both days. Gaming enthusiasts will have the chance to participate in tournaments and get some freebies too. Book your tickets from St James Cavalier or via email. Venue: St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, Valletta. Email: info@maltacomic-con.com

cover story

Discovering the islands on foot As the sun begins to lose intensity and the first rains revive the Maltese islands after the hot summer months, it is the perfect time of the year for putting on your hiking boots and exploring Malta and Gozo on foot. Sarah Micallef discovers the best walking routes the islands have to offer.

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Hand-held guide Download the free iMalta app to help you find your way around the islands by suggesting the best places to visit and sights to see.

Photo by Paolo Meitre Liberatini – viewingmalta.com

Away from the hustle and bustle of its busy cities, Malta boasts some of the most beautiful walking routes and views in the Mediterranean, comprising spectacular cliffs overlooking the sea, garigue-rich shrub land, fertile valleys and rural villages. Dotted along these routes are interesting specimens of the islands’ rich history, allowing you to visit prehistoric sites and hidden countryside chapels en route.

In Malta, some of the best places to explore on foot are Mellieha, Dingli, Ghar Lapsi, Fawwara, Wardija, the bays in the North, fishing villages along the southern coast and Delimara Point. The sister island of Gozo is richer in terms of countryside, offering excellent walking

sites around Ta’ Dbiegi, San Lawrenz, the Gordan Lighthouse near Ghasri, Hondoq ir-Rummien and San Blas valley. The smaller island of Comino is also a great option to explore in the cooler months, when the lack of peak season sun worshippers make it a tranquil and breath-taking place to walk.

Besides the lush green areas around the islands, a stroll around one of Malta’s quaint rural villages and towns will have you skipping over the cobbled streets and experiencing the quiet way of life some of the islands’ older residents still lead.

Rabat, a town in the north of Malta, is rife with cultural heritage and is home

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cover story

Photos by viewingmalta.com

Photo by Maurizio Modena – viewingmalta.com

St Magdalene chapel

Azure Window, Dwejra, Gozo Photo by Peter Vanicsek – viewingmalta.com

Tal-Maqluba chapel, Qrendi

to a number of archaeological sites of note. What’s more, it’s just outside the medieval city of Mdina, which boasts some of the islands’ most beautiful baroque architectural gems, some of which have been transformed into museums, places to visit and restaurants, all worth taking a peek at.

Not too far off are the old rural villages of Mgarr and Siggiewi, that feature some truly beautiful scenery for the nature lover, with the latter comprising the valley of Ghajn il-Kbira and Girgenti. The imposing cliffs of Dingli make for a number of beautiful walking routes, and are also home to the site of Is-Simblija, a medieval hamlet of rural dwellings located on the ledge of a cliff, with structures dating back to 1718.

Towards the south of the island, Qrendi is another quaint village that offers a look into the past. Should you

Marsaxlokk harbour

be in the area, you can even factor in a visit to the prehistoric temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, located on the outskirts. Elsewhere, a stroll around the village of Zurrieq could be bolstered by a visit to the Xarolla Windmill and the Blue Grotto, which is as breath-taking in the winter months as it is in summer.

The fishing village of Marsaxlokk is another picturesque location for a walkaround; while there do not miss a trip to the local market, selling fresh fish, vegetables, clothes and souvenirs, and end your visit with an excellent fish lunch at one of its renowned eateries.

To discover the real spirit of the Maltese islands on foot, all you need to do is depart from one of the islands’ village squares and begin your adventure. Due to the size of the islands, you’re never too far from a friendly face or a helping hand, but make sure to pack supplies like water and a means of

communication, just in case. If you’d prefer to have a plan as to where you intend to go, the Malta Tourism Authority has recently published a number of detailed guides highlighting some walking routes you can access on their website (visitmalta.com), along with a map and points of interest along the way.

Some of the picturesque walking routes highlighted include the Tas-Silg walk, starting from Marsascala and ending in Marsaxlokk, meandering through the Marsascala salt pans, Fort Delimara, St Paul’s Battery, Xrobb l-Ghagin and St Thomas Bay. Once in Marsascala, a visit to St Thomas Tower, which was built by the Knights of Malta in 1614 and is nowadays managed by Fondazzjoni Wirt Artna, would certainly not go amiss.

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cover story

Photo by Mario Galea – viewingmalta.com

Il-Maqluba, Qrendi Photo by viewingmalta.com

Another begins from Malta’s only woodland area of Buskett, passing along prehistoric cart ruts, Ghar il-Kbir, the 18th-century Inquisitor’s Palace of Girgenti and Providenza chapel, ending in the quaint village of Siggiewi. Other walking routes take you through Rabat, Qrendi, Zurrieq, Safi and Mellieha, featuring interesting sites including Migra l-Ferha, the windmills of Ta’ Marmara, Tas-Salib and Ta’ Qaret, the hamlets of Bubaqra and Hal-Millieri, and the Ghadira Nature Reserve along the way.

For the avid nature lover, guided walks and tours are also organised at the Majjistral Nature and History Park in the northwest of Malta, which comprises the coastal area from Golden Bay to Il-Prajjet and ix-Xaghra l-Hamra.

After the hot summer months, guided

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Photos by Clive Vella – viewingmalta.com

Siggiewi chapel

Photo by Annelise Falzon

Majjistral park

walks are set to resume on Sunday 20 October, with private tours also available if you have at least eight confirmed participants.

So why not discover the islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino off the beaten track during your visit? With picturesque sites, natural landscapes, rocky terrain and serene countryside villages a plenty, you’re sure to see a side of the beautiful islands in the middle of the Mediterranean that most don’t ever get to see.

Mdina streets

Useful links for touring the islands on foot For the Malta Tourism Authority’s guided walking routes, along with maps and points of interest, visit www.visitmalta.com/en/walks

For information on upcoming events and guided tours at Majjistral Nature and History Park, visit www.majjistral.org

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Photo by Alan Paris

heritage

Signs

from the past As you walk along the islands’ streets, you’re met with all sorts of reminders and relics from days gone by. One such feature is the array of old, hand-made signs, still placed on old business premises that have since been closed down or are still in operation. The old world charm and character of such signs has caught the eye of three young creatives with an appreciation for traditional typography. Sarah Micallef finds out more.

Photo by Richard Muscat Azzopardi

Launched this May, www.maltatype.com is the brainchild of Ed Dingli, Matthew Demarco and Katerina Karamallaki, and comprises a collection of images showing typography, predominantly found on old business signs, that appears around Malta and Gozo.

As the trio maintain, taking photos of old Maltese signs and urban typography was something they started out doing individually, out of personal interest and curiosity about their surroundings and an appreciation of traditional typography. Then, the need arose, through a project, to find inspiration from traditional Maltese typography, which

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heritage Photos by Richard Muscat Azzopardi

led them to discover that apart from a few sporadic photos online, a space that collected and catalogued these examples did not yet exist.

This discovery led to the birth of maltatype, with the aim of having “a location where typography and especially Maltese typography and signage aficionados could see all these beautiful examples of type, that will unfortunately eventually disappear as new shops and modern signs replace them.” They also invited the public to submit pictures and any information on the subject, and there was a massive response. This, they say, “shows how this is something close to local people’s hearts.”

Such signs were created by a variety of techniques and processes that are no longer in use today. Ed, Katerina and Matthew highlight some of the most popular techniques that have since fallen out of favour, which include verre églomisé, glass painting and individual wood-cut lettering. “One of the most prominent techniques around was verre églomisé, or an imitation of angel gild, in which the back side of glass is gilded

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with gold or silver leaf. There was also glass painting, individual wood-cut lettering and hand lettering methods such as tberfil, a technique synonymous with Malta, which is now considered a dying art.”

Indeed, such techniques are often passed down from father to son across the generations, and there are still a few remaining artists practising the art on the islands. As the trio explain, it is assumed that before the 60s or thereabouts, all signs were made by hand – either painted, carved or neon.

The introduction of vinyl technology in the 80s meant that signs were produced more quickly and cheaply, which made it easier to replace a sign when selling a property. Fortunately, as the trio say, “we feel that people are starting to appreciate the traditional craft again, and we are starting to see hand-made signs come back into fashion.” Indeed, such examples of modern signs using hand-made techniques can be seen at the likes of Tico Tico Bar and Blitz Art Gallery in Valletta, among others.

When asked what it is about traditional signage in Malta that

specifically appeals to them, Katerina explains, “I quite like to compare different signs from different eras and see the various trends going on at that time. Also at that time, the sign-maker was the designer as well as the craftsman. He would have had to come up with an inventive logo and design for the sign as well as making it beautiful and eye-catching for the passing trade.”

For Ed, documenting these signs on the site is a way of keeping their stories alive. He claims, “a large number of the signs featured on maltatype now front unoccupied buildings, or buildings in which the occupants have been replaced by more modern shops or businesses.

Yet many of the signs remain as if they were intended to tell the stories of times gone by. A large chunk of Strait Street in Valletta, for example, is now very quiet and almost abandoned. If you had to remove the signs from the flaking walls, it would be very difficult to imagine the same street as the hive of entertainment and drunken revelry it once was.”

Whereas each sign has a story, much of the signs’ history remains shadowy.

Indeed, as the trio claim, a large part of

Photo by Ed Dingli

heritage Photo by Richard Muscat Azzopardi

the signs’ history lies with the persons that created them, so the next project they’d like to embark on is finding those people or surviving relatives who can talk to them about what went into creating each sign, and collect their stories.

Fortunately for the group, maltatype is reaching a wider audience everyday, which leads to discoveries when people reach out to them with information about particular signs.

As for a favourite sign, the trio are intrigued by the mystery surrounding a particular sign that reads ‘Aladdin Heating and Lighting’ (see image on page 19), located across from the old covered market in Merchants Street, Valletta. “We have to admit to not knowing anything about it, but we like its imposing mystery. Unfortunately, the sign is deteriorating as each day passes, and we hope that someone can do something about it, and many deteriorating signs like it, to help conserve these beautiful pieces of Maltese history.”

Keeping an old technique alive

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Despite never having worked on business signs, Herbert Guillaumier has been practicing the craft of verre églomisé for the last 45 years, having taken part in several exhibitions and taught the craft to patients attending the Day Therapy Unit at the Hospice Movement in Balzan.

Here, he breaks down the process involved in this little known craft.

“Materials used in this craft include several different-sized brushes, paint, glass, Arabic gum and coloured silver foil. The method is very simple. You start by placing the picture to be painted under the glass and tracing the outline in black paint with the smallest-sized paint brush. When the paint sets, the background is next to be painted. I use black and/or white. Once again, the paint has to set in order to continue with the procedure. Once it does, it’s time to glue the coloured silver foil onto the glass as required, thus forming the painted picture.”

“In the past, signs were done free-hand, as craftsmen did not have the use of scanners and enlargers. Moreover, the only silver foil used in the process used to be found in tea-boxes – tea used to be imported in boxes which were lined with silver foil and sold by weight.”

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a taste of malta

The maltaguide.com Themaltaguide.com is your website for everything Malta!

We aim at promoting and providing information and special offers to locals and tourists surfing the web for relevant services and information.

Visit themaltaguide.com to find the best tourist attractions and the finest listed restaurants and hotels to ensure you have a memorable experience during your stay in Malta.

Themaltaguide.com is updated on a daily basis with the latest events and things to do.

You are welcome to join our Facebook Page and to follow us on Twitter to receive daily updates from themaltaguide.com.

Contact us on mob: 7942 9041 or email: info@themaltaguide.com

Valletta Living History Valletta Living History is a high definition multi-lingual audio-visual show depicting the history, culture and lifestyle of Malta and the Maltese, showing everyday at the Embassy Complex in the heart of Valletta.

Relive the Great Siege between the brave Knights and fierce Ottomans, the French and British rule, and World War 2 till today.

Open seven days a week with shows at 10, 10.45, 11.30am, 12.15, 1, 1.45, 2.30 and 3.15pm.

Valletta Living History, Level 2, The Embassy Complex, St Lucia Street, Valletta.

Tel: 2722 0071; www.maltaattraction.com

So you’ve booked your holiday to Malta Download your free Snout Malta App now, purchase offline mapping and banish expensive roaming charges. Snout Malta is loaded with all the inside information you need to create a holiday itinerary like no other, whilst enjoying intriguing audio tours of Mdina and Valletta. SEEK out Malta’s best places; FIND the hidden gems only locals know about, then SHARE your photographs with friends and family.

Go to snoutit.com or search for Snout Malta and download on either apple or android

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culture

Palazzo Falson:

a medieval home in Mdina

The kitchen at Palazzo Falson Palazzo Falson is one of the most imposing buildings in Mdina. Not only is it considered to be the second oldest house in this ancient city, but it is also the only Mdina home that is open to the public, and a visit is an absolute must for anyone who loves art, history and beauty. This 13th-century palazzo is located on one of Mdina’s principle streets and can be found easily on the street that leads from Cathedral square to the bastions.

The palazzo’s importance lies in the fact that it is an architectural monument, reflective of various centuries of history. The house once belonged to the powerful Falsone family, and later passed into the hands of a noble family. In the early 20th century it was acquired by Captain Olof Frederick Gollcher OBE (1889-1962). Gollcher was a distinguished man who received several honours.

He was also an artist and a passionate collector of objets d’art and historical items with which he filled his house, and which can now be seen on display in the museum. The collections are of historical importance, extremely varied – ranging from antique furniture to jewellery, baroque paintings, arms and armour, books and so much more – and

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beautifully displayed against a backdrop of rooms which have been fully restored to their original glory.

Following the death of Gollcher, the house and its contents eventually passed on to the Captain O F Gollcher OBE Art and Archaeological Foundation. In 2001, Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti was entrusted with the conservation and management of the house, which it transformed into a Historic House Museum re-opening to the public in 2007.

Since opening, the museum has now become a firm favourite on the itinerary of foreign visitors and Maltese alike.

Audio guides (in six languages) are provided on purchase of a museum ticket and guided tours are available for groups. The museum has a very active programme of activities, advertised on the museum’s website and Facebook page. After a tour, the museum’s tranquil roof-top café offers superb panoramic views of the island, and fresh home-made snacks.

Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday (10am-5pm. Last entry is at 4pm). Concessions are available. Tel: 2145 4512; email: info@palazzofalson.com. Further details on www.palazzofalson.com and the museum’s Facebook page.

culture

Experiencing Malta’s past Few countries have a past as turbulent and inspiring as the small island of Malta. Through beautiful imagery, gripping commentary and dramatic sound, The Malta Experience allows you to sit back and watch the island’s history unfold. Over four million people have been enthralled by this internationally award-winning show, located at a purpose-built panoramic auditorium.

Malta’s first and foremost audio-visual attraction; the show covers 7,000 years of history in 45 minutes. From the early settlers of the temple period to the Knights of the Great Siege through to the destruction of World War II and the island’s ascension to Europe, The Malta Experience chronicles the events that have shaped the modern forward thinking country you see today.

Situated on the edge of Fort St Elmo’s bastion in Valletta with majestic views across the renowned Grand Harbour, the Malta Experience is one of the most popular attractions when visiting the capital.

property Photo provided by franksalt.com.mt

A treasure of a home Hand-crafted stonework, little niches, wooden beams and balconies, winding staircases, vaulted, high ceilings, patterned, colourful tiles – old properties within most towns and villages are replete with charming features that are unique to the Maltese islands.

“When buying a house of character or a townhouse, especially one that hasn’t yet been converted, one is not merely buying a masonry shell but also a piece of history,” says local architect Eve Degiorgio.

Charming, quaint and wonderfully traditional, Maltese townhouses and houses of character are truly a treasure sought after by locals and foreigners alike, and owning one of them is akin to owning a part of the islands’ heritage. Chiara Bonello speaks to the experts about what it truly means to own such a home.

“When looking to purchase such a home, authenticity is key,” she continues. It is therefore important that any interventions made are compatible with the character of the space. Features vary depending on the age of the property and it is critical to acquaint oneself with the characteristics that define a property of a particular age before embarking on a restoration project.

When asked whether she would prefer a ready converted house of character, or one which needs converting, Ms Degiorgio does not hesitate.

“An unconverted property is my personal preference, since I believe that a conversion process, apart from possibly being more financially rewarding, may ultimately yield the best result since it is tailored specifically to the buyer’s needs and lifestyle. That said, it must be noted that the task of converting such a house may prove daunting to new buyers with limited time on their hands. It is important to weigh the challenge involved against the time and investment one can afford, and decide accordingly. There are also many very well converted and attractive

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property Photos provided by franksalt.com.mt

houses of character on the market that have been tastefully converted and which, with minimal effort, may be transformed into beautiful residences.

Consultation with an architect or other building professional may help determine the authenticity of the property in such cases.�

Searching for a property, especially one that is unconverted, is a challenging, albeit a rewarding, process. The challenge depends particularly on the state of finish, structural stability and upkeep. It is recommended to have the property inspected by an architect to determine whether the building is sound, uncover any damage it may have sustained and to what extent this may be remedied.

Photo provided by Belair Property

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property

Photos provided by Belair Property

Photo provided by franksalt.com.mt

Conservation and restoration specialist at the Malta Environment and Planning Authority (MEPA) Kenneth Cauchi points out that any pre-World War II building is normally beset with a number of deterioration mechanisms, the most common among them being leaking roofs. However, these can be treated effectively. Moreover, old construction is generally very sturdy and well executed, therefore remedial works can easily be carried out.

When viewing a house of character that has already been converted it is important to know what works have been carried out and in what way, to ensure that the right materials were used.

Photo provided by franksalt.com.mt

Conservation of the historic cores of towns and villages, as well as of buildings

GUARANTEEING PEACE OF MIND FOR FOREIGN OWNERS scheduled for protection due to their architectural or historic importance, is a priority for MEPA. That said, MEPA recognises that their maintenance, particularly those in urban conservation areas (UCAs), is costly.

To this end MEPA offers the Investi F’darek scheme in the form of two financial incentives. One offers grants for the restoration, conversation and maintenance of properties of architectural significance, while another offers a tax concession scheme and tax credits to stimulate investment in restoration and conservation of such properties.

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When purchasing a property abroad, chances are that from time to time it will be vacant, which can be cause for concern. This is where Reliance Malta Ltd comes into the equation. This professional property management company, with over 12 years’ experience, is committed to taking care of a property when it is vacant.

The company provides a variety of services ranging from regular inspections and airing of a property, to preparation of the property and stocking of essential requirements prior to a visit and representation with tradesmen or handling of any insurance cases related to the property on a homeowner’s behalf.

“We basically act as the representative in Malta while the owners are away from the island or the property and regularly inspect the property to make sure it is kept in order. If the property is rented out, we also collect rent and act as the middleman between the tenant and the landlord,” Jonathan Xuereb who runs Reliance Malta Ltd explains.

He adds that home insurance policies in Malta do not cover the insured if the property has been vacant for 30/60 days at a stretch (depending on the insurance company), but having a property manager regularly checking on the property will avoid this.

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property

MONIQUE CHAMBERS

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– WHY A BRIT CHOSE TO BUY PROPERTY IN MALTA “I’d been visiting Malta on holiday regularly, having family here already, and fell in love with different parts for different reasons over the years. As a freelance writer, it didn’t really matter where I was based and one day, I realised I could live in Malta and holiday in England! I fell in love with the house from as far as the top of the street; a windy old street that no one was going to drive fast down, where you could see the sea and hear birdsong, yet be five minutes away from a bustling town. It looked small from the outside but once inside, it opened up. Full of

light and calm, it was a shell with these beautiful high ceilings and beams, with nooks and crannies for me to house my precious things in. In these old streets, you knew you were somewhere special; the grandmothers on their doorsteps, the vegetable van and bread seller breaking up the housewives’ days, it was all very romantic. Within a couple of years, it was a beautiful home. The feeling of space and serenity is one I looked forward to if

I’d been out or away. The light, the cool, the fact that each room has its own purpose; work, dressing, resting, entertaining – is such a relief from cramming myself into a shoebox a few years prior. There are thousands of properties for sale in Malta and many of those you could fall in love with – but it is important to have a good agent and an attentive notary whose job it is to ensure the house can legally be sold.”

property

October unveiling for Tigné Point’s new seafront residences

Tigné Point’s new block of 38 seafront apartments is being released in mid-October, following the completion of a show flat being designed by Martin Xuereb & Associates.

This is the latest phase of this award-winning project by MIDI plc, where all previously released properties are now sold.

The latest offering captures the essence of what makes Tigné Point so successful: stunning views, an unparalleled lifestyle and the dramatic beauty of the Mediterranean Sea – so close you can almost touch it.

To capitalise on the exceptional views, the project’s lead architects, aoM partnership have created apartments with frontages of up to 34 metres, and layouts which allow for practically every room to enjoy the open views.

Terraces are also designed with this in mind and were created for lazy afternoons in the sun and long drawn out dinner parties. At sunset, the fortifications of Malta’s baroque capital take on a magnificent glow which, reflected in the water, give the city a dreamlike quality.

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This block will be followed by the Tigné Point Business Centre, which will provide some 14,000sqm of high grade office space and underlying catering offers overlooking Pjazza Tigné and the open sea.

Possibly the best aspect of Tigné Point is that it provides all the convenience and practicality of Sliema life with the added advantage of a car-free environment, as the entire development was designed to eliminate vehicular traffic.

Ample parking has been built underground and all amenities are situated within walking distance. When you set foot in Tigné Point you are struck by the crisp air and sea breeze resulting from the complete absence of cars.

Amenities include a shopping mall, supermarket, health and leisure amenities, and some excellent restaurants and cafeterias overlooking fabulous Valletta views or the central Pjazza Tigné – which is rapidly becoming the vibrant heart of the development.

More information is available at www.tignepoint.com

take note

Lose yourself in the Gardens, Find yourself in the Pottery If you’re planning your time in Malta, then why not spend a few hours exploring the lush Mediterranean gardens around historic Villa Bologna?

Located in Attard, 17th-century Villa Bologna is one of the island’s finest examples of a stately home – complete with both baroque and neoclassical architecture, as well as fascinating shelters dating back to World War II. A couple of hours spent discovering the gardens promises to be a relaxing retreat away from the hustle and bustle of Malta, and highlights include the ornate baroque nympheum, the beautiful dolphin fountain and the picturesque sunken pond.

Yet another feature is the Ceramika Pottery, also within the grounds of the estate. Operational since the 50s, it

produces top-quality hand-made items such as homeware, kitchenware, lamp bases, saint plaques and ornamental sea creatures, and all in beautiful patterns that have long-been associated with the artists at the villa. Meanwhile, the adjacent boutique stocks local delicacies such as olive oil, sea salt and jams, as well as a collection of Maltese books, recipe books and souvenirs – the perfect presents to take home to family and friends!

Visit Villa Bologna on San Anton Street, Attard, or call ahead to book your guided tour on tel: 2141 7973; www.villabologna.com

this is malta…

How often do you come across thousands of years’ worth of history, blue waters, a vibrant nightlife and good Mediterranean food, over 316 square kilometres?

This is it… this is malta! An archipelago of small islands, the country takes its name from the largest one: Malta, a blend of the historic and the modern. The second largest is Gozo, traditionally and rurally beautiful, and the third is Comino, famous for the clear crystal waters of its Blue Lagoon.

Scattered across the islands is a wealth of sites dating back millennia, such as the oldest free standing structures in the world: the unique

temples of Ħagar Qim/Mnajdra (Malta) and Ġgantija in (Gozo). At Arriva Malta we know you want a holiday to remember, and we take it upon ourselves to show you all the beauty of our country. Our services this summer offer you easy and cheap travel to all the sites you want to see: beaches, monuments, markets, cities and villages! As for your nights out... don’t worry: Our night buses will take you back safely.

We’ve made planning your holiday easy: plan your journey on google maps or just pick up your free holiday map from our booths at the Airport, Valletta, Sliema and Buġibba.

Catch a bus... we’ll do the rest.

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take note

Concert at

St Catherine’s Church, Valletta Classical Ensemble Visit the St Catherine of Italy Church in Valletta and enjoy compositions by world-famous composers J S Bach, F Handel, A Vivaldi, W A Mozart, J Brahms and G Bizet, and Maltese composer Ch Camilleri, played by the Classical Ensemble with a soloist singer.

St Catherine’s, one of the most beautiful baroque churches in Valletta, is just the perfect venue for classical music. The orchestra performs with four excellent soloists of the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra: Ana Martinez Tos, Inmuculada Munoz Salguero – violins, Mattew Fenech – viola, Lucie Kucharova – cello, together with opera soloist singer Andriana Yordanova.

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Tickets, sold at €15-€20, can be bought from www.ticketline.com.mt or at the door.

Proceeds will go to the restoration of the church.

For more information visit www.maltaartevents.com

Buffet the Hilton Way If you’re going to indulge, you might as well do it properly!

Saturdays Mediterranean Market – the sizzling sounds of Saturdays

Sundays

A unique feast of sizzling flavours! The sumptuous Mediterranean Market Buffet Dinner is hosted in the elegant setting of the Oceana Restaurant. Whether out for a romantic evening or a warm get-together with family and friends, you’ll be spoilt for choice when faced with such an immense variety of mouth-watering dishes to savour. Live cooking stations are also available for you to combine your favourite pasta or sizzling dish.

For those who want to upgrade their Sunday afternoon to something really memorable, Hilton Malta’s Sunday Buffet Lunch makes for a truly special day out, comprising a veritable feast of culinary delights. Once again, a variety of live cooking stations is available, providing an invigorating atmosphere whereas a large selection of delicious dishes is expertly prepared waiting for you to indulge in. Sunday lunch is available as from 6 October.

Price: €35 per person

Price: €35 per person

For reservations call Tel: 2138 3383

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fashion

n Trend

this Autumn

Kokon To Zai

While it’ll be a while yet before we hang up our summer dresses and sandals on the fair Maltese islands, it’s hard not to get excited about the brand new autumn/winter collections that have started appearing in stores. Sarah Micallef takes a look at the trends to be seen in this season.

Jeremy Scott

Kokon To Zai

As ever, high street trends filter down from the runway collections showcased by big name designers, and this season it’s no different, with a number of trends that stood out on the runway now making their way to shops near you.

Individual pieces to be seen in this autumn/winter season include the statement jumper, be it bearing an eye-catching motif, in a slouchy, oversize style or in the ever-enduring animal print. Other noteworthy pieces include the jumpsuit, which is set to

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fashion

Yves Saint Laur en

t

Emilio Pucci

Punk’s not dead Following its glory days in the UK in the 80s, the punk trend has revisited the runways a number of times since, and refuses to leave the limelight for long.

Go for neon, hounds tooth, leather, tartan, spikes and heavily buckled boots to give your look a punk edge à la Yves Saint Laurent and Versace.

Modern ladylike The surge in popularity of shows like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire have had thousands of women swooning, and given rise to a hankering for a more ladylike aesthetic. The modern take on ladylike features feminine items and textures like lace camisoles, pencil skirts, sheath dresses and soft knits paired with slick silhouettes and edgy accessories.

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Acne

Chloe

Ashish

Aside from statement pieces to imbue your wardrobe with, trends to look out for this season are numerous.

Proenza Schouler

stick around for another season, and a throwback your mum will probably remember: the twinset. Comprising of a matching skirt (usually pencil) and top (usually crop), the previously dowdy twinset has experienced a 2013 makeover, making it tighter, shorter and a new season must-have.

Look to autumn/winter collections by Chloe and Louis Vuitton for inspiration.

Double denim Whereas the double denim trend is usually one associated with the summer months, this winter will see its cold weather equivalent. All manner of blue denim, be it patchwork, printed, frayed or ripped is set to take centre stage. For the really adventurous, it is to be worn layered in both double (shirt and jeans) and triple (including a coat or jacket) denim looks, as was the case in designer Ashish’s autumn/ winter collection.

Metallic pastels Another trend that is pushing past its traditional spring/summer associations is pastels, thanks to the likes of Emilio Pucci and Proenza Schouler. Colours like mint, blush and nude are teamed with metallic shoes and accessories, biker jackets and faux fur to lend a tough edge to an otherwise girly palette.

Statement outerwear Oversized coats and jackets were everywhere on autumn/winter 2013 runways, but really stood out in collections showcased by Stella McCartney and Acne. You’re truly spoilt for choice when it comes to keeping out the chill this season, with mannish tailored coats and jackets, oversized aviator jackets, double breasted coats and blazers, duffle coats and faux fur all hitting some serious style points.

Rave review Designers KTZ and Jeremy Scott had 90s club kids at heart when drawing up their new collections, with striking patterns and bold colours truly stealing the show. Thread carefully and adopt a less is more attitude with this trend, teaming your bright bombers, tube dresses, sequin trousers and printed leggings with neutral separates to bring a dose of fun to even the dreariest winter day.

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent

Chloe

Where to shop Valletta

The capital city of Valletta offers more than beautiful architecture and rich history. Take a stroll through its pedestrianised streets for a number of local outlets and foreign brands nestled amidst charming cafés and eateries. Enjoy a dose of retail therapy in this heritage city, where you’ll find anything from clothing and jewellery to haberdashery and souvenirs.

Don’t miss: Republic Street, Merchants Street and The Embassy Complex

Sliema

A favourite among locals and foreigners alike, Sliema is easily Malta’s shopping capital. This prominent shopping destination is home to numerous high street and designer brands dotted along its main shopping streets and within two of the island’s largest shopping centres. Have a wander around the shops followed by a stroll along the beautiful promenade and a drink at one of the many cafés on your next visit.

Don’t miss: Bisazza Street, Tower Road, The Plaza Shopping Centre and The Point Shopping Mall

St Julian’s

Opposite the award-winning and high-end development of Portomaso, you’ll find a number of designer shops catering for the more exclusive shopper. Further along the coast, St Julian’s also houses a large shopping mall, which contains several high street and upmarket brands.

Don’t miss: Bay Street Shopping Complex and Portomaso

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where to spend it

Bay Street Complex In the heart of St Julian’s, Bay Street is a shopping and leisure complex with more than 60 shops ranging from high street fashion to designerwear, jewellery and shoes, sportswear and electronic equipment, music and software, perfumes and other speciality shops; and in between all the shopping, a variety of cafés, restaurants and bars provide a much needed break. Bay Street Complex also boasts a specialised artisan market and a large games room, and hosts several events and attractions.

It is the only complex in Malta where shops open from 10am till 10pm, and catering and entertainment establishments open till late.

The Embassy Complex Valletta Shopping, food, film and entertainment The only one-stop shopping and entertainment complex in the heart of Valletta, offering myriad retail outlets with international and local brands and services including books and magazines, computerised bingo and royale slot machines, cinemas (six air-conditioned theatres showing 2D and 3D films), fashionwear and accessories, grooming and shaving products for men, food, footwear, kidswear, mobile telephony, perfumes and beauty products, digital television and internet services, and Valletta Living History – a 35 minute multilingual audiovisual show in high definition – your priority when visiting Valletta. www.embassycomplex.com.mt

The Point Shopping

Your shopping destination of choice Since its inception in March 2010, the largest shopping mall in Malta has succeeded in firmly establishing itself as the shopping destination of choice on the island. The Point has been innovative and bold in its strategy and marketing campaigns, giving customers an unprecedented shopping experience and becoming a popular destination for all the family. The wide variety of top brands, comfortable ambience, ease of access and ample availability of parking spaces are only some of the components that helped The Point to achieve its success.

Always customer-centric, the team at The Point manages to put together a vast calendar of events targeting various age groups and tastes. Competitions and offers are also available from various outlets and the mall itself on a regular basis. The

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Point Shopping Mall offers a cool experience like no other for customers who are looking for a good mix of outlets within any budget!

For a full calendar of events one can visit www.thepointmalta.com and The Point’s Facebook page www.facebook.com/ThePointShoppingMall

Photo by Daniel Cilia – viewingmalta.com

gozo

Little island:

Incredible destination For decades many merely saw Gozo as an appendage to Malta, but these days it has definitely developed into a destination in its own right. Jo Caruana discovers why.

Cittadella

Photo by viewingmalta.com

As Malta’s littler sister island, Gozo has often struggled to find its feet as a separate entity to Malta and a destination worthy of its own attention.

Yes, visitors to the Maltese islands would usually hop on the ferry for an afternoon or, at most, a day or two, but rarely was it given the same time investment as its more obvious, larger sibling.

At some point though, Gozo blossomed. A little like a growing teenager it developed a personality of its own and started to attract visitors based entirely on its own merits – whether for its unique culture (which often differs substantially to Malta’s), its wilder open countryside, or its still-traditional way of life.

“Gozo’s touristic offer is very distinct,” says Joe Muscat, CEO for the Gozo Tourism Authority. “It has a wonderful character, and has also retained its authenticity, both of which have secured its popularity with Maltese visitors and travellers from far further afield.

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Photo by Daniel Cilia – viewingmalta.com

gozo

Photo by Rene Rossignaud – viewingmalta.com

St Lucia feast “It also has plenty to offer that’s unique – including the charming Gozitan farmhouses that provide a wonderful accommodation option, the local produce of cheeselets, honey, sun-dried tomatoes, sun-dried tomato paste and limoncello, and the jampacked calendar of events in every little town and village. This may be small, but it certainly makes up for that in attitude.”

Dwejra tower

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Backing that sentiment, Tony Zahra, President of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association (MHRA), explains that Gozo will always offer something special. “As high visitor numbers are not the island’s main objective, it has to continue servicing the higher end of the market, so as to maximise on the spend-per-head rather than attracting throngs of people,” he says.

“To do this I really believe it must retain the charm and uniqueness that have long been its major selling points, while it must also seek to reinforce its visitor numbers by catering more to the needs of internal tourism, namely Maltese who travel to Gozo for their holidays.”

Of course, Gozo’s rich history is also a major draw. From the quaint alleys of the Cittadella, to the striking coastal watch towers built by the Knights of St John and Ggantija Temples, the oldest freestanding stone structures in the world, almost every destination on Gozo has an age-old story to tell, and a dedicated local community eager to tell it.

This was witnessed in the recent launch of the ‘Il-Hagar – Heart of Gozo’ project in the island’s capital, Victoria.

gozo

Il-Hagar – Heart of Gozo

This museum-cum-cultural centre displays a rich collection of historical and artistic artefacts, many of which target a cultural niche. This €1.2m endeavour, which was the brainchild of the Fondazzjoni Belt Victoria and the St George’s Basilica, is Gozo’s first-ever purpose-built museum. It is already gaining popularity thanks to its interactive content and pristine exhibits, which include stunning relics and unusual religious artefacts.

On top of that, many local attractions have been improved or upgraded. “This includes the extensive repair works being carried out on the citadel,” continues Mr Muscat, referring to the project that has included the restoration works on the walled city’s old gate, as well as general beautification works to the church façade and the bastions.

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Additionally, works have been carried out on the Ggantija Temples as part of the ERDF 32 Archaeological Heritage Conservation Project, which will see the embellishment and conservation of this site included on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the ‘Maltese Megalithic Temples’ inscription.

“Finally, we’ve also seen the upgrading of the historic watchtowers in Dwejra, Ta’ Sopu, Ta’ Kenuna and at the Sant’ Antnin Battery,” Mr Muscat adds.

But it isn’t just projects linked to the past that have got the island going. Gozo is very much looking to the years to come, and several recent developments have helped to cement its future.

For instance, there is serious talk of a tangible link between Malta and Gozo, and the government is currently working with foreign researchers to determine whether a bridge or tunnel could be feasible.

“The Gozitan business community is heavily pushing for a fixed link

gozo

Photo by Chen Weizhong – viewingmalta.com

connection between the two islands,” explains Michael Grech, President of the Gozo Business Chamber. “And I think that both options could work. Furthermore, we are in favour of having a fixed wing facility on the island, as well as a fast ferry service between Gozo and the mainland.

“Beyond that, the government has also issued an expression of interest for projects including a yacht marina, cruise liner terminal and a casino. With all three it seems there has been quite a lot of local and foreign attention, so there are exciting times ahead.”

Agreeing with this, Mr Muscat adds that it’s all about striking a balance. “Yes

Salt pans we can look at further development, but we also need to keep looking after our present product and safeguarding Gozo’s unique character. Gozo doesn’t need to copy Malta and it definitely deserves to be thought of as a destination in its own right,” he concludes.

Divers at Azure Window, Dwejra Phto by Markus Kirchgessner – viewingmalta.com

cuisine

Autumn delights Come autumn, summer vegetables make way for the new season’s produce, such as pumpkin, cauliflower and spinach. However it is not only vegetables that are seasonal. Chiara Bonello looks into what the locals choose to chow on at this time of year.

The warm summer months in Malta are characterised by evenings enjoying fresh fish and seafood, grilled or barbecued, accompanied by various fresh salads, but as the weather begins to change, so do the menus.

Soups, stews and roast meats feature heavily on the menus of Maltese households as the temperature goes down, although fish remains a staple.

Local cookery expert Anton B. Dougall, who specialises in Maltese food, explains that locals tend to eat fish, rabbit and pork all year round (even during the summer, when they are normally barbecued). However, in the colder seasons the locals do eat more soups, stews and cooked vegetables. The author of over 45 recipe books points out that most Maltese food is prepared by a slow-cooking process, with dishes such as rabbit stew and bragjoli (beef olives) requiring hours of cooking for the best flavours to emerge.

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but contains meat) and kusksu (a soup made with broad beans, small pasta beads and fresh local cheeselets). Soups are typically served with thick chunks of fresh, crusty Maltese bread.

The first rains also prompt the snails to emerge from their summer refuge to the delight of some Maltese who use them to make stews or to cook them served with an aioli dip.

With the first rains vegetables in Malta become more plentiful and cauliflower, pumpkin, broccoli, marrows and spinach are available in abundance at this time of year. They feature in several dishes – from pies to soups and much-loved local staples such as qarabaghli mimli (stuffed marrows).

Fresh fish is ever-present in Maltese cuisine, with lampuki (dolphin fish) abundantly available at this time of year. A must-try when in season is the lampuki pie, a local delicacy, which Mr Dougall highly recommends.

Photo by Clive Vella – viewingmalta.com

Some popular local dishes savoured during the colder months include minestra (a thick vegetable soup), kawlata (which is similar to minestra,

Photo by Gino Galea – viewingmalta.com

cuisine Photos by viewingmalta.com

Snails stew Marsaxlokk market If not baked into a pie, fish is normally cooked plainly with no heavy sauces and the like, and preceded by a bowl of aljotta, a delicious garlicky fish broth. Mr Dougall explains that pilot fish is also currently in season, a fish which he recommends trying stuffed.

Even when it comes to sweets, there are many seasonal variations, such as figolli (pastry shapes with a ground almond filling) which are served at Easter time and kwarezimal, served during Lent. What about this time of year? Besides the sweet options available all year round, such as imqaret (date-filled pastries), as the beginning of November marks All Souls Day, expect to come across ghadam tal-mejtin (similar to figolli, but in the shape of bones) in most confectioners.

L-ikla t-tajba! (Enjoy your meal).

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cuisine

Recipes Majjal mimli (Stuffed pork)

Photo by viewingmalta.com

Stuffat tal-fenek (Rabbit stew)

Ingredients 1.4 kg pork 500g minced pork 300g minced beef 100g grated cheese 3 eggs Seasoning Method You may choose to use shoulder, belly, loin or flank, as long as it is boneless.

Do not trim all the fat from the pork as this will help to keep it moist. Slice the pork in half lengthways, beat the two halves with a rolling pin to flatten and widen slightly, then season with salt and freshly milled pepper.

Preheat the oven to 200°C, Gas Mark 6.

Put the minced meat in a bowl and mix well. Add seasoning, cheese and eggs.

Mix until all the ingredients have blended together.

Stuff the pork with this mixture.

Either wrap the meat in foil or ask your butcher to give you a baking net.

Continue to cook using the same method as for roast pork.

If you want pork crackling, you have to cut deep slits into the skin, using a sharp knife. This has to be done before you cook the meat. During cooking do not baste the pork, otherwise the crackling will not be crisp.

35 minutes before cooking time is up remove dish from oven. Great care should be taken whilst doing this, because the hot gravy might scald you.

Remove the foil and continue cooking the meat at a higher temperature.

Ingredients 1 rabbit 200g onions 3 garlic cloves 200g peas

200g tomatoes 40g tomato paste 2 glasses red wine 80g green olives Sage

Bay leaves ½ teaspoon mixed spice Seasoning Olive oil

Method You can either buy a whole rabbit, chopped, or choose to buy rabbit joints.

You need around two joints per person.

Peel and chop the tomatoes, onions and garlic. Put in separate bowls.

In a large bowl pour the wine and add the sage, bay leaves and seasoning. Do not use all the sage and bay leaves. Mix well so that all the ingredients are combined.

Place the rabbit joints in this marinade and leave to marinate for not more than 1 hour.

In a large saucepan heat some oil and fry the onions and garlic. Stir frequently.

They should not brown. Lower heat. Add the tomato paste, tomatoes, mixed spice, bay leaves, wine mixture, peas and some water. Cover pan till the mixture boils. If using frozen peas, follow the instructions on the packet, before adding to mixture.

When the mixture starts to boil remove from heat.

Remove the rabbit joints from the marinade and pat dry with kitchen paper.

Pass the marinade through a sieve and set aside.

Season the rabbit joints. Heat some oil in a sautĂŠ pan and fry to a golden colour.

Add some sage. If preferred you can brush the joints with olive oil and sprinkle some sage and seasoning on them. Then roast them in a pre-heated oven.

Add the rabbit joints to the tomato mixture; cover and cook on a very low flame for 90 minutes. Add green olives. If you see that the stew is drying up, then you can add some marinade. This dish can also be cooked as a casserole in a moderate oven.

You can serve this stew with spaghetti and plenty of grated cheese or on its own with fresh Maltese crusty bread.

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eating & drinking

Aaron’s Kitchen Chef patron, Aaron Degabriele, resident chef of Malta’s no1 TV cooking programme, ‘Aroma Kitchen’, brings more than 20 years’ experience right in the heart of the capital city, Valletta.

A newly designed à la carte menu is being served, prepared with the freshest ingredients on the market. Dining at the restaurant is a Mediterranean gastronomic experience with a special focus on Maltese and Italian cuisines. We take the pride in serving a variety of daily specialties, which include fresh fish and shellfish, pasta and grills. A list of home-made desserts, that are changed regularly, is hand-written on our blackboards. Highly rated on Trip Advisor.

Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Sundays and public holidays lunches only. Reservations are highly recommended. Tel: 2123 0636; mob: 9945 8356; email: aarondegabriele@yahoo.com – Aaron’s Kitchen, 107, Archbishop Street, Valletta.

Café Caravaggio With a vast menu of top quality dishes and a unique location beside St John’s Cathedral, world famous for the Caravaggio paintings within it and its magnificent interior and architecture, Café Caravaggio not only boasts great food but also a great location. Offering seating both outdoors and indoors, the premises are fully air-conditioned, so whether you would like to escape the summer heat or prefer to enjoy the sun outdoors, you will not be disappointed.

Tel: 2723 6257; email: rob911@vol.net.mt Café Caravaggio, St John Square, Valletta.

De Robertis Roof Top Restaurant De Robertis is one of the longest established restaurants in Valletta. Located on the rooftop of the Castille Hotel, the restaurant is well known for its refined cuisine. The open-air terrace dining area has spectacular views of the Valletta Grand Harbour, and provides a romantic setting at night with the glimmering lights of the towns surrounding the Grand Harbour. The menu includes a fusion of Italian, Mediterranean, French and local cuisines beautifully presented in a lavish way, yet at reasonable prices. One can choose between à la carte or set menu.

Open for lunch from noon to 2.30pm and dinner from 7pm to 10pm.

De Robertis Roof Top Restaurant, Castille Hotel, Valletta. Tel: 2124 3677/8.

Dee Goose Restaurant Specialising in Maltese cuisine and Continental dishes, Dee Goose has been described as having a “traditional homey atmosphere” with “wonderful traditional home cooking at a very reasonable price” by satisfied customers commenting on Tripadvisor. John, owner and chef for the past 34 years, is renowned for his delicious specialities, namely his bragjoli (beef olives), rabbit, lamb stew and duck.

Open between 12.30 and 11pm Mon-Sat; 6pm till late Sun. For reservations, call on mob: 9924 9490.

Dee Goose Restaurant, 7, Guze Fava Street, Sliema.

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eating & drinking

Giuseppi’s Restaurant Giuseppi’s Restaurant is found in the heart of Mellieha village. Giuseppi’s is run by chef patron Michael Diacono and has managed to gain a well-deserved reputation for serving up authentic Maltese and Mediterranean food. Michael uses his imagination to create a balanced and well thought out menu which is very seasonal and uses only local produce whenever possible. This multiple awardwinning restaurant is open from Monday to Saturday evenings from 7.30pm.

Tel: 2157 4882; mob: 9949 3579; email: info@giuseppismalta.com Giuseppi’s Restaurant, George Borg Olivier Str, Mellieha.

Il-Mithna Restaurant Il-Mithna Restuarant is tucked away in the village of Mellieha within a stunning 18th-century converted mill house. Whilst admiring its interior and sipping on fine wine, be it local, classic French, Italian or New World, enjoy Il-Mithna’s mouthwatering recipes that comprise modern Mediterranean cuisine using only local and fresh produce. In all its offerings, Il-Mithna epitomises fine taste, quality and value.

Tel: 2152 0404; mob: 7948 5817; email: info@mithna.com Il-Mithna, 58, Triq Il-Kbira, Mellieha.

Irrera A family-run restaurant offering stunning panoramic views of the Grand Harbour and a varied menu to suit all budgets, Irrera has established itself as a family favourite eatery. The enticing menu has something for everyone, from snacks such as baguettes, ftiras, wraps and sandwiches, to sumptuous breakfasts, bruschettas, salads, platters and burgers. Irrera also offers a large selection of delicious pasta dishes, pizzas, meats, poultry, game and fish. Irrera is a unique place to relax and unwind whilst enjoying a wonderful atmosphere and a tasty dish.

Open between 9am and 11pm every day. Tel: 2134 0018; email: irrera@euroweb.net.mt Irrera, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex.

L’Aroma Situated on the Sliema seafront, L’Aroma restaurant is tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Malta’s shopping centre. L’Aroma prides itself in the preparation of traditional Mediterranean cuisine using recipes passed down through the generations. The menu comprises a selection of mouth-watering fresh fish, fine meat cuts and pasta dishes, all at a great value for money. One of the house specialities, the traditional rabbit dish, is regarded by many locals as the best in town. Whether for a relaxed dinner or a lazy lunch L’Aroma is a great spot to sit down, unwind and watch the world go by.

Tel: 2131 7633; email: laroma.restaurant@maltanet.net L’Aroma, 17, Ghar il-Lembi Street, Sliema.

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Zeri’s

Open for lunch and dinner daily

Located at the prestigious Portomaso Marina the first restaurant at the top of the stairs that lead to the marina – this highly acclaimed restaurant presents an imaginative menu that reflects Zeri’s (as chef patron Mark is known) skills at creating traditional Mediterranean flavour dishes. Specials include an array of fresh high quality meat, pasta, salads, antipasti and fish, whilst the wine list brags over 170 wines. Great food, quick service and a relaxing, yet buzzy ambience make Zeri’s the place to go for business or pleasure.

Free parking at Portomaso. Reservations recommended.

Zeri’s Restaurant, Portomaso Marina Complex, Portomaso, St Julian’s.

Tel: 2135 9559; mob: 7957 3333; email: zeris@maltanet.net; www.zerisrestaurant.com

eating & drinking

La Caverna Wine Bar La Caverna revolves around the world of wine and is a place where our guests can just relax in the cosy surroundings of an Italian-style enoteca and sip their way through an extensive wine list while enjoying fresh antipasti. The perfectly chilled and unique wine library has a room for red wines and another one for white wines.

This atmosphere provides the perfect setting for wine, and guests are invited to request a guided tour that will explain the origins and stories of the wines.

Tel: 2211 0000; email: reservations.sanlawrenz@kempinski.com La Caverna, Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, Triq ir-Rokon, San Lawrenz, Gozo.

Latini Latini is a family run Mediterranean restaurant in Marsalforn, Gozo. The restaurant has built a great reputation among both locals and foreigners thanks to its tasty home-made food and service with a genuine smile. The Latini restaurant menu features a great selection of typical Mediterranean food ranging from meats and fresh fish to pizzas and pastas. Great care is given to each dish and its many regular customers will vouch that eating here is always a treat.

A complementary appetiser sets the right mood to enjoy a lovely lunch or dinner. Make sure to also leave space for dessert, as this is another house speciality. Marsalforn enjoys a number of restaurants along its promenade, but Latini is one you should definitely keep an eye out for.

Tel: 2155 0950; email: latinirestaurant@hotmail.com Latini, Marina Street, Marsalforn, Gozo.

Le Malte Along the cosmopolitan Sliema promenade stands a stalwart of genuine local cuisine – Le Malte, distinguished by great service, excellent value for money and authentic dishes using the freshest of ingredients. Le Malte specialises in Maltese and Mediterranean dishes including rabbit, horsemeat, beef olives (bragjoli) and snails, all cooked in the traditional way. Wine lovers are also spoilt for choice with a selection of local wines. All those presenting this advert will be entitled to a free bottle of wine.

Open from Monday to Sunday between noon and 11.30pm. Tel: 2134 2242; mob: 9987 8699; email: lemalterestaurant@hotmail.com Le Malte, Tower Road, Sliema (next door to Europa hotel).

Malta’s Classic Brews Hopleaf Pale Ale and Blue Label Ale are two of Farsons’ classic brews, first brewed in 1928.

Today, both these classic brews have become favourites among locals and tourists alike, and continue to represent the art of traditional brewing and prestigious beer culture.

Blue Label Ale, one of the Farsons classic brews known for its rich colour, is produced with a special type of malt which gives it a surprisingly smooth and mild taste. A nitrogenated version known as Blue Label Smooth n’Creamy is also available on draught.

Hopleaf Pale Ale is another Farsons classic brew that is brewed with high quality malt and traditional English hops, and has a strong, fresh character with a pleasant bitterness with 3.8 per cent alcohol content. www.farsons.com

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Maltese Mama Maltese Mama serves authentic Maltese and Italian cuisines complemented with great service in a relaxed atmosphere. To start with patrons are offered a complimentary plate of traditional Maltese antipasto, served with fresh bread and galletti. You many then choose from our variety of starters that include home-made soups, octopus, scallops, clams or our speciality shellfish platter and pasta dishes. A variety of main courses is also available – we specialise in fish and traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit and bragjoli (beef olives).

Tel: 2737 7024; mob: 7780 5312; email: eltonspiteri@hotmail.com Maltese Mama, 19/2, Paceville Avenue, St Julian’s.

Munchies Golden Bay Whether you’re after light snacks or wholesome meals, Munchies Golden Bay offers excellent food with superb views. Delight your taste buds with a choice of dishes ranging from delectable pasta dishes and excellent cuts from the grill to gorgeous salads and fresh fish and seafood, washed down with a bottle of your favourite wine. And feast your eyes with the spectacle of an unforgettable sunset. With mouth-watering food, charming service and, of course, a backdrop like no other, Munchies is definitely worth a taste.

Tel: 2157 6416; mob: 9957 6417; email: admin@munchiesmalta.com; www.munchiesmalta.com Munchies, Golden Bay.

Palazzo Preca Restaurant Palazzo Preca, run by the same management as that of renowned Tal-Familja Restaurant in Marsascala, stands in the centre of historic Strait Street within a beautiful 16th-century palazzo. On Wednesday nights the lights are turned off and the restaurant is entirely lit by candles, creating an intimate and romantic ambience. An extensive and creative menu provides mouth-watering choices for lunch or dinner. Don’t miss our delicious home-made desserts. Professional, dedicated attentive staff will help to ensure that your visit to Palazzo Preca is a completely enjoyable experience. Top rated on trip advisor.

Also open for Sunday dinner. Monday closed all day. Bookings are to be confirmed by phone Tel: 2122 6777; www.palazzoprecarestaurant.com Palazzo Preca, 54, Strait Street, Valletta.

Pintonino Restaurant Pintonino Restaurant is ideally located in the historical and picturesque Valletta waterfront, built by Manuel Pinto de Fonseca in the 18th century. This is a unique location, embedded in the fortifications of Valletta and on the shoreline of the harbour.

At Pintonino we have one goal: ‘creating a hub of Mediterranean cuisine’ for our customers seeking to experience their passion for food and service.

Tel: 2122 7773; email: info@pintonino.com Pintonino, Vault 15, Valletta Waterfront.

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Rebekah’s Situated discreetly on the heights of Mellieha, Rebekah’s is a converted house of character that welcomes diners to an evening of fine dining. You may choose to dine in the airy internal courtyard or by the fireplace in the cosy interior. Thanks to Rebekah’s excellent wine list, that brings together wines from all over the world, every dish is excellently accompanied by a wine that matches any given dish like a glove – accentuating even the subtlest nuances of flavour. Average price: €37 per person. Free pick-up and drop-off from anywhere in Mellieha.

Open on Mon to Sat 7-10.30pm and Sunday lunch. Tel: 2152 1145; mob: 7947 8896; email: info@rebekahsmalta.com; www.rebekahsmalta.com Rebekah’s Restaurant, 12, Triq It-Tgham, Mellieha.

Ristorante Arzella Treat yourself to a magnificent seafood dinner at sunset or unwind over a relaxing lunch whilst enjoying breath-taking views of sun and sea. Sample crisp fruity wines as an accompaniment to mouth-watering Mediterranean cuisine – from our house speciality mixed fish platter of freshly caught fish and shellfish, to tasty aromatic pastas, meat, chicken and an ever-changing list of specials, lovingly prepared by our chef with the freshest ingredients.

Taste, Feel, Breathe... Mediterranean.

Tel: 2155 4662; mob: 7940 9924; email: bookings@ristorantearzella.com Arzella, Il-Menqa, Marsalforn, Gozo.

Sammy’s Tavern Sammy’s Tavern is a family-run restaurant that first opened its doors in 1965.

Located in Xemxija Bay, we offer easy parking, great views and friendly service, all within a cosy environment. Specialising in fresh seafood, pasta and traditional local and Mediterranean food, we make our own chips, burgers, bread, jams and desserts to offer that unique, homely and fresh flavour, all the while using only fresh and local ingredients. Prices range from just €3.25 to €16. A family restaurant for everyone!

Open Tue to Sun from 6pm, and Sunday lunches.

Mob: 9956 4243.

Sammy’s Tavern, Xemxija Bay, Xemxija.

Sa Re Ga Ma

Authentic Indian Cuisine Once again, Sa Re Ga Ma has been confirmed as the best Indian restaurant in Malta! The tranquil tropical gardens of the Fortina Spa Resort provide a beautiful backdrop to this delightful award-winning restaurant. The broad menu offers all the popular Indian dishes, such as Korma, Pasanda, Tikka Makhni and Rogan Josh, as well as an extensive variety of vegetarian dishes. You can also enjoy an Indian food feast in the newly opened Indian area (shown in image). With €35 per person, you can savour 15 dishes accompanied by free flowing water.

Mob: 9949 2513; facebook: www.facebook.com/saregamafortina Sa Re Ga Ma – Tropical Gardens, Level 1, Fortina Spa Resort, Sliema.

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Seaview Restaurant Seaview Restaurant, a family-run establishment, is renowned for its mouth-watering dishes, great atmosphere and friendly service. The restaurant is located at the picturesque Mgarr Harbour, affording excellent views from its terrace. Apart from our à la carte menu, we offer daily specials and specialise in fresh fish. We also cater for business lunches, staff parties, birthdays, etc. If you are after a delicious dinner, Seaview Restaurant should be one of your stops when visiting Gozo, for an unforgettable dining experience.

Parking facilities are available next to the restaurant.

Tel: 2156 5541; mob: 7945 8869/7982 6352.

Seaview Restaurant, 15, Shore Street, Mgarr, Gozo.

Ta’ Kolina This family-run restaurant, centrally located on the Sliema seafront and offering both indoor and outdoor dining, is the longest standing typical Maltese restaurant on the island, and is very popular for its Maltese cuisine and its warm and friendly atmosphere.

The menu offers a variety of Maltese and Continental food, and a wide selection of the best Maltese wines. Speciality dishes include fresh fish, rabbit, bragjoli and pepper steak, all of which are highly popular.

Open 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sun. Tel: 2133 5106; email: takolina@gmail.com Ta’ Kolina, 151, Tower Road, Sliema.

Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro Right in the heart of Sliema lies Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro, serving wholesome home cooking at unbeatable prices. Chef patron Chris uses the freshest ingredients to create tasty Maltese dishes like Dad’s Famous Bragjoli, thick beef stew, veal escalopes and rabbit. Patrons are also spoilt for choice with the daily specials ranging from fresh fish to beef fillet and various pasta dishes. All at this price-worthy restaurant is served in the unique settings of a former bakery. Ta’ Kris is one of the best rated restaurants by the Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Ta’ Kris, 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema. Tel: 2133 7367; mob: 9984 7713; www.takris.malta-europe.com

Ta’ L-Ingliz Ta’ L-Ingliz is best known for its exceptional Maltese cuisine, serving traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit (fenkata), horsemeat (laham taz-ziemel), quails (summien) and pork chops (kustilji tal-majjal) among several others. Talented brothers Godwin and Simon run the restaurant and its renowned kitchen, ensuring that authentic traditional dishes are served to their loyal patrons. The good food, warm and welcoming atmosphere, and helpful and friendly staff make a visit to Ta’ L-Ingliz a well-worthy trip to the quiet, rural village of Mgarr.

The eatery is also an ideal place for group parties and other occasions.

Tel: 2157 4605. Ta’ L-Ingliz, 59, Main Street, Mgarr.

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Ta’ Salvina Restaurant Tucked away in the charming village of Gharb in Gozo, our restaurant is renowned for genuine local and Mediterranean cuisine. Whether you prefer dining indoors, in an authentic rustic environment, or al fresco by the pool, at Ta’ Salvina we offer you a special dining experience both for lunch or dinner, away from it all, enjoying our fresh food and friendly staff.

Tel: 2155 2505; mob: 9942 1510; email: tasalvina@onvol.net Ta’ Salvina Restaurant, 21, Frenc tal-Gharb Street, Gharb, Gozo.

Vermell Bistro Get ready to take a bite out of Vermell – meaning red in Catalan – which best describes the red theme which flows through our bistro, creating a warm ambience. Tucked away in a relaxed corner of St Julian’s, Vermell has a glass facade from where one can enjoy the gorgeous view of Spinola Bay from within or from its outdoor terrace. Our menu focuses on Mediterranean cuisine, and our signature dishes are made using fresh local fish, seafood and different cuts of meat. We strive to offer our customers genuine food, efficient and friendly service with a smile, and most importantly, a dining experience worth remembering.

Open Monday-Sunday lunch (by bookings only) and dinner from 6pm till late.

Tel: 2137 5567; mob: 7944 6158/7902 0991. Vermell Restaurant, Spinola Bay, St Julian’s.

Take Note There are no public holidays during October and November

Public hospital in Malta Mater Dei Hospital, B’Kara By-pass, B’Kara.

Tel: 2545 0000; email: mdh@gov.mt

BANKS AND CURRENCY EXCHANGE Banks are normally open between 8.30am and 1.30pm MonThur, between 8.30am and 3.30pm on Fri, and up to 12pm on Sat. Some banks open for longer hours. International bankcards are accepted and foreign currency is easily exchanged. Banks, Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) and exchange bureaux can be found all over the islands.

USEFUL AND EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NOS 00356 112 1182 1152 195 2124 9600

International Code Emergency Services Directory Enquiries Overseas Operator Time Check Flight Enquiries

Public hospital in Gozo Gozo General Hospital, Victoria.

Tel: 2156 1600; fax: 2156 0881

CHEMISTS Chemists are found throughout the islands and are open during normal shopping hours. On Sundays they operate on a roster from 9am to 12.30pm in Malta and from 7.30am to 11am in Gozo. Details of the roster are available on the local Sunday newspapers.

SMOKING No smoking is allowed in any entertainment establishment, including bars and restaurants, unless there is a smoking designated area.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES IN MALTA Malta Tourism Authority-run offices may be found at: Valletta 229 Auberge D’Italie, Merchants Street. Tel: 2291 5440/1/2 Malta International Airport Arrivals Lounge, Luqa. Tel: 2369 6073/4 Gozo 17 Independence Square, Victoria. Tel: 2291 5452/3 Mdina St Publius Square. Tel: 2145 4480 Mellieha Misraħ iż-żjara tal-Papa Ġwanni Pawlu II-26 ta’ Mejju 1990.

Tel: 2152 4666 Valletta Waterfront Pinto Wharf. Tel: 2122 0633

POSTAL SERVICES Most towns and villages have post or sub-post offices. Branch Post Offices in Malta and Gozo are open between 7.30am and 12.45pm Mon-Sat. Sub-Post Offices are open between 8am and 1pm and 4pm and 6pm Mon-Fri and between 8am and 1pm Sat. Stamps can be bought from post offices, local newsagents, souvenir shops and hotels.

ELECTRICITY The electrical supply is 230 volts, 50 hertz. The three-pin rectangular plug system is used, as in Britain. Adapters are very easy to find.

TIPPING Gratuities are usually in the region of 10-15 per cent, as in most European countries. As a rule of thumb: taxi drivers – not expected, but up to 10 per cent; porters – €0.25-0.35 per piece of luggage; restaurants, unless a service charge is added to the bill, 10 per cent.

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Photo by Nicky Scicluna

nightlife

Photo by Clive Vella – viewingmalta.com

Photo by Nicky Scicluna

Busy night-time scene

The calendar of events is bursting at the seams over the coming months – from car shows and operas to activities which celebrate the unique history of the place. Chiara Bonello picks her choice of the largest night-time events happening this October.

NOTTE BIANCA 5 October Once a year over 60,000 people head to Malta’s capital city, Valletta, for Notte Bianca, where imagination and reality come together for one night only.

This year’s Notte Bianca promises massive flying structures, magic in a medieval library... and random bickering knights.

For the first time this year, Notte Bianca will have an official opening, complete with coloured smoke and In Guardia troops firing cannons from all over Valletta.

Following this, Valletta will be transformed into a city mapped out with a fairy-tale fantasy – Valletta as it perhaps was in the past, as it perhaps could be or as it will never really be.

Photo by viewingmalta.com

Be prepared for anything when walking through the designated entrance to the festival. Turn a corner and you might bump into a solitary pianist, for instance. Take a few more steps and you might observe three French soldiers having an argument on a balcony. You might also encounter a massive flying structure over the Valletta skyline. Or you might walk into the national library – that medieval treasure trove – and immerse yourself in a magic show. You might even chance across a hip hop performance on the fountain of Pjazza San Gorg.

portrait artists, antiques, crafts, car-boot sales, home-made foods and all other sorts of stands found in Maltese markets.

Not everything will be random, of course. Music concerts will be held in organised indoor locations. If you walk into the Suq tal-Belt, for instance, you can expect to find a curated gastronomy themed event with electro-swing music.

Hastings Gardens will host a large curated flea market featuring florists,

The festival will start with an official opening at 6pm, and come to an end with breakfast at the Casino Maltese at 2am. Notte Bianca is supported

by The Malta Council for Culture and the Arts.

New artistic director Sean Buhagiar is the force behind most of this new vision. He wandered the streets of Valletta endlessly, listening to its echoes, whispers and stories.

“My biggest challenge is to make these voices a reality,” he says. This year’s Notte Bianca will bring some of them to life, showing a different side to the city we all know.

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Photo by Peter Vanicsek – viewingmalta.com

nightlife Photos by Clive Vella – viewingmalta.com

BIRGUFEST 11-13 October The beautiful maritime city of Birgu, which served as home to the British Navy until 1979, has a rich history associated with maritime and military activities. Once a year crowds of locals and tourists alike flock to the city for BirguFest.

The Knights made it Malta’s capital city in 1530, and it played a crucial role in the Great Siege of 1565, but its importance diminished after this, when the Knights moved to the new capital Valletta, but it remains the most perfectly preserved of the Three Cities.

After the siege it earned the title of Citta Vittoriosa, meaning victorious city, and is sometimes still known as Vittoriosa.

A visit to Birgu at any point is truly a journey back in time, to a place where knights in shining armour patrolled a fortress overlooking the harbour, at the edge of a city unconquered and undefeated, but imagine the magic of seeing it in candlelight.

This national event focuses on the city’s rich historic heritage and architectural beauty, with various historical re-enactments, discounted museum entrance fees and churches and auberges which open their doors to the general public.

Picture bold high honey coloured walls, irradiated by the warm evening sunlight. Imagine narrow streets with houses and palazzos each with its individual character.

During the BirguFest weekend thousands descend on Birgu, roaming its narrow and winding streets. This year is no exception to past successes, as the programme promises another magical candle-lit evening.

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Traditional music, choirs, as well as a number of local and foreign bands are all on the agenda. For the young at heart renowned local bands will be rocking the main square on Friday night, while Saturday will see people of all ages relaxing to a concert of mixed music.

Nevertheless the highlight of this event is definitely the Birgu By Candlelight, which is held on Saturday night and sees the streets and houses of this magnificent city lit up by thousands of candles, creating an incomparable romantic atmosphere which blends well with the music and historical ambience.

Further information can be obtained through the Birgu Local Council website www.birgu.gov.mt or by calling the Birgu Local Council’s offices on tel: 2166 2166 or mob: 7966 2166.

nightlife

MALTA MILITARY TATTOO 12-13 October Although a Military Tattoo originally meant a military drum performance, it subsequently came to mean army displays in general, and for the Maltese people it is a pleasant conclusion to the feast season. The Malta Military Tattoo, during which band clubs take care of the lion’s share of the entertainment, is the cherry on the cake for the Maltese people.

The Maltese are very fond of band music, a fact which is reflected in the many active band clubs, with more than 3,900 persons who are resident or trainee band players. With a total band club membership of over 30,000, representing over 6 per cent of the total population aged between five and 84, these figures, even in isolation, reveal the popularity of band music in Malta.

On the other hand the Malta Military Tattoo provides foreign guests with an entertaining event that is in keeping with, and brings out the best of, the country’s military music tradition.

This year in its 10th edition, the Malta Military Tattoo comes on the heels of town and village festas, where the local band is an important part of the organising set-up, and where band marches and musical concerts are the core features.

Ever since the first Malta Military Tattoo, the organisers (Stardom Promotions Agency) have also brought various foreign military bands over to Malta. These included The Armed Forces Band of Greece, the Wessex

Military Band from the United Kingdom, the Fanfara Bersaglieri from Italy, the South Yorkshire Police Band from the United Kingdom, the Libyan Army Band, the 1st Royal Highland Regiment the Black Watch from the United Kingdom, the Central Military Band of the Ministry of Defence of the Russian Federation, the Grenadiers and Rifles Band from the Netherlands, the Air Force Band of Spain and the Armed Forces Band of Poland. Furthermore, for the last eight editions there have been different bands representing various and different units within the Army Cadets Forces of the United Kingdom.

This year’s event promises to showcase yet another captivating array of performances by local and foreign bands.

Time: 6pm. Venue: Malta Fairs and Conventions Centre (MFCC), Ta’ Qali.

Email: booking@maltamilitarytattoo.org

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Getting Around

Malta is about 27 km long and 14.5 km wide. Short distances make it possible to make the most of your stay at a relaxed pace. The network of buses within the public transport system covers nearly all the islands. Car hire rates in Malta are good value. You may also enjoy a relaxing trip on the calm, blue Mediterranean Sea by taking an island or harbour cruise or cross between Valletta and Sliema by ferry at half hourly intervals.

BUSES Arriva Malta, part of the pan-European Arriva Group, operates public transport services in the Maltese islands on a network offering multiple connections and main termini in Malta’s capital, Valletta, and Gozo’s capital, Victoria. Fifteen routes operate in Gozo, including route 301 linking Victoria and Mgarr Harbour every 30mins.

Arriva’s services run between 5.30am and 11pm, with night buses in some areas, and 6 express routes (X1, X2, X3, X4, X5, X7) linking various localities to the airport and the Gozo ferry in Cirkewwa. Various off bus ticket options are available from ticket machines in key locations around the island, Arriva ticket booths

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(Valletta, Sliema, Bugibba, Malta International Airport) and selected retail outlets and hotels spread around the islands. More details at www.arriva.com.mt TRAVELLING TO GOZO A regular ro-ro ferry service carries passengers and cars between Malta and Gozo. The trip takes about 30 minutes.

For information and time-tables contact The Gozo Channel Company on tel: 2210 9000.

CAR HIRE Most international car hire companies have a branch in Malta. Local companies too offer this service, with or without a chauffeur. Car hire rates are very reasonable compared to those in other European countries.

TAXIS All taxis are fitted with meters and should charge government-controlled prices. Any complaints should be addressed to the Public Transport Authority, tel: 2143 8475. Over recent months, a number of private companies have also been set up to offer competitive chauffeur-driven services.

GUIDE ME 51

october/November 2013 ₏3 the official visitors’ guide of the malta hotels and restaurants association

OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2013

Property in Malta

Foreigners opting for charming old houses

a showcase of malta

Cover story Discovering the islands on foot

gozo

Developing into a destination in its own right

signs

from the past Intriguing old shop signs Find out more about the major events this autumn

cuisine

Cooking with seasonal ingredients

latest fashion trends

Your guide to EVENTS | fashion | EATING & DRINKING | SHOPPING