February/march 2016 €3 The official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association
A SHOWCASE OF MALTA
EVENTS Carnival, Easter and other unmissable celebrations
CUISINE
The art of figolli-making
cover story Spotlight on Malta’s booming economy
your guide to events | fashion | eating & drinking | shopping
INSIDE
February/March 2016 EDITOR Martina Said PUBLISHERS Content House Group ADVERTISING Advertising Sales Manager Matthew Spiteri
Photo: Jürgen Scicluna - viewingmalta.com
Advertising Sales Executives Petra Urso Jessica Catania Diane Scerri
page 16 10 Events
A list of the major events taking place in Malta throughout February and March.
Islands of love – Sarah Micallef lets you in on how to make the most of a romantic holiday in Malta.
A bird’s eye view of Malta’s thriving economy – Marie-Claire Grima takes a look at the various sectors making Malta’s economy one to be reckoned with.
Art Direction & Design Box Design – T: +356 9949 1418 Photography Heritage Malta, Malta Tourism Authority, Alan Carville, Matt Hush, Tonio Schembri, Darrin Zammit Lupi
Content House Group, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Mriehel, BKR3000. T: +356 2132 0713 E: info@contenthouse.com.mt W: www.contenthouse.com.mt
Guide Me is published every two months in Malta. The magazine is the official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association. The publication is distributed free of charge in the individual rooms of three, four and five star hotels. Guide Me is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo and at the La Valette Club within the Malta International Airport (MIA). It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at The Valletta Waterfront and at MIA.
16 Events
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PRINTERS Progress Press Ltd
29 Lifestyle
12 Cover Story
As the days grow longer… – Some of the islands’ most spiritual and colourful events take place during this time, as Marie-Claire Grima highlights.
Advertising Sales Coordinators Lindsey Napier Marvic Cutajar
Cover picture: Carnival festivities in Valletta organised by Arts Council Malta Photo: Darrin Zammit Lupi
Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me are not necessarily those of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association or of Content House Group and both organisations do not accept responsibility for editorial or advertising content. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.
INSIDE
February/March 2016 39 Must Visit
51 Cuisine
Spotlight on St Julian’s – From scenic views to restaurants by the dozen, Martina Said sheds light on the best things to see and do in St Julian’s.
45 Fashion
Warm winter style – Sarah Micallef takes her pick of the best trends from this year’s autumn/winter collections that will keep you warm. Aquazzura
Flavours of Malta: Easter figolli – Brother-and-sister home bakers Rachel and Michael Zammit Maempel tell Jo Caruana about their figollimaking tradition and the secrets of their recipe.
57 Eating & Drinking Find the perfect place to wine and dine with our handy restaurant guide.
63 Nightlife
Musical discovery – Maltese songstress and Eurovision 2016 hopeful Ira Losco talks to Jo Caruana about her upcoming studio album, her career and where musiclovers should hang out on the islands.
FOREWORD
Welcome to the Maltese islands! ISSUE
65 February/MARCH 2016
Spontaneous Carnival in Nadur, Gozo - Photo: Matt Hush
A
fter the fun and frivolous period that is the festive season, the Maltese islands take a quieter and somewhat sombre turn once February rolls around – just after Carnival, that is, when the streets of the capital, Valletta, together with other towns and villages across Malta and Gozo become a rainbow of vibrant colours accompanied by energetic music and an equally pumped up audience in costume. But all this changes once the mammoth carnival floats get stored away and the music is turned down, as locals begin their journey of the 40 days of Lent, during which time they’re also busy preparing for Easter, which is the pinnacle of this period. Marie-Claire Grima delves
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into the many feasts, celebrations and events that mark this time of year on page 16, complete with a timeline of what happens when, which you could use to join in the celebrations if you so wish. In keeping with Easter traditions, Jo Caruana speaks to a brotherand-sister duo with experience to spare on the art of making figolli, the traditional Maltese delicacy that characterises Easter time here, on page 51. Their contents are simple, but their taste ever-so sweet, and they more than make up for the period of abstinence of many-things sugary (an optional but widespread practice during Lent) for 40 days. The Guide Me team wants to ensure you get the most of your stay
here, even in the evenings, so we’ve turned to popular Maltese singersongwriter Ira Losco to discover her favourite local nightlife spots and the best hangouts for music lovers on page 63. Ira – who will represent Malta in Sweden in the much-loved Eurovision song contest later this year – lets us in on her career, future projects and the imminent release of her sixth studio album. And if you dare to look the part during a night on the town, take heed of Sarah Micallef ’s pick of the most fashionable items you should be looking out for at the coldest time of year on page 45. Enjoy your stay!
Martina Said EDITOR
CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2016 FEBRUARY 01-14 February Watches – The exhibition Watches: From timekeepers to trendsetters, which brings together over 50 antique watches from various private and museum collections has been extended to 14 February, by popular demand. The exhibition considers their variations and functions, and takes an in-depth look at particularly important watches belonging to notable personalities. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 4pm at Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum, Mdina. Entrance to the exhibition is free of charge. www.palazzofalson.com
05-09 February Carnival in Malta & Gozo – Carnival in Malta is a colourful extravaganza of large, artistic floats parading through the streets of Valletta accompanied by loud brass bands and a cacophony of dancers and revellers in outrageous costumes. By night, the party continues in the clubs and bars of Paceville. In Nadur, Gozo, Carnival takes on a zany and yet macabre mood, with grotesque masks and satirical floats parading through the streets of the town at night.
07 February
18-21 February
In Guardia Parade – A re-enactment that portrays the inspection of the fort and its garrison by the Grand Bailiff of the Order of the Knights of St John in charge of military affairs. Actors are kitted-out in their uniforms to perform their military drill to demonstrate to the Grand Bailiff the fort’s state of readiness. The show begins at 11am at Fort St Elmo, Valletta, and lasts 40 minutes. www.visitmalta.com
Vivanda – The international culinary event is focused on EuroMediterranean gastronomical traditions, cultures and innovations and will take place at the Malta Fairs and Convention Centre in Ta’ Qali. Hundreds of trade visitors may witness innovations taking place in the world of food and drink. Various local and foreign chefs will also participate in challenges to win prestigious awards and accolades under the patronage of the World Association of Chefs Societies – WACS, which visitors can watch as they happen. www.mfcc.com.mt
10 February The Feast of St Paul’s Shipwreck – The first of the year’s major feasts is celebrated in the parish church of St Paul Shipwrecked in Valletta and in the streets of Malta’s capital city. It commemorates the shipwreck of the Apostle St Paul on the Maltese islands in 60AD. This event is a national public holiday and a religious feast. As this year the feast falls on Ash Wednesday, celebrations are being held in the last weekend of January.
17 February Vienna in Valletta 2016 – Following the sold-out success of last year’s performance, leaders of the Vienna Philharmonic will once again join forces with leading musicians of the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra in a programme celebrating the ‘city of music’. This year’s programme will include works of Michael Haydn and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, as well as Schubert’s final chamber work, the sublime Quintet for Strings D. 956. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
20 February Bolshoi Ballet in Cinema – The Taming of the Shrew – St James Cavalier will be screening The Taming of The Shrew (Encore) by the Bolshoi Ballet, on Saturday 20 February between 8 and 9.30pm. Neither purely classical nor outright contemporary, this show is also the taming of ballet – the new Bolshoi look. www.maltaculture.com
26 February Chris De Burgh Live in Concert – Internationally acclaimed singer-songwriter Chris de Burgh will perform live on stage at the Republic Hall, Mediterranean Conference Centre in Valletta. He is most renowned for his 1986 love song Lady in Red, which reached
For the full online Malta Calendar of Events please go to: www.visitmalta.com/events-calendar
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number one in several countries. De Burgh has sold over 45 million albums worldwide. For more information and to book tickets, visit www.mcc.com.mt
26 February Changing of the Guard – The Changing of the Guard Ceremony is held every last Friday of the month at St George’s Square, Valletta. The parade commences at 10.30am, with the AFM Band marching down Republic Street onto St George’s Square. Here, the new guard marches out from the Main Guard in order to replace the old guard, which marches out from The Palace in Valletta. Following the exchange of ‘duties’, the AFM Band conducts a marching display in the same square.
26-28 February The Odd Couple – The Manoel Theatre in Valletta will be hosting The Odd Couple, a play performed in English between 26 and 28 February. When fussy Felix (Chris Dingli) becomes suicidal over his impending divorce, he accepts an offer to move in with his best friend, messy Oscar (Malcolm Galea), and a series of events puts their friendship to the test. www.teatrumanoel.com
MARCH 16-17, 20 March Orphée et Eurydice – Music and dance come together in a story of loss and obsession in this new production
of Orphée et Eurydice (1859 Berlioz revision). Composed by Christoph Willibald Gluck, it is based on the myth of Orpheus and set to a libretto by Ranieri de’ Calzabigi. The opera features leading local soloists and chorus with the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by Philip Walsh, and directed by Denise Mulholland. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
31 March Freedom Day – 31 March marks the occasion when, in 1979, the Defence Treaty with Britain came to an end and the last British forces left the island. Activities commemorating this important historic date take place every year, mostly in Vittoriosa where the monument marking this event is situated.
20-27 March Holy Week and Easter – Good Friday and Easter are celebrated locally in a liturgical and ceremonial manner. On Good Friday, towns and villages commemorate the Passion of Christ with an organised procession of statues, culminating with Easter which manifests itself in a fun and festive way on Easter Sunday, when children traditionally carry their Easter pastry (figolla) (see page 51) to be blessed in their parish.
27 March
31 March-03 April Annie Mac Presents Lost & Found – Malta – After last year’s resounding success, Annie Mac will be hosting another unforgettable festival between March and April. Party-goers can expect more pool parties, boat parties, castle raves, flamingos and some incredible new day and night venues. The line-up will be announced closer to the event. Check out details on www.lostandfoundfestival.co.uk
The Four Seasons with Carmine Lauri – Internationally acclaimed Maltese violinist Carmine Lauri will perform Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons under the direction of Michael Laus, supported by ADRC Trust and APS Bank. Proceeds will go towards research in brain disorders through the University of Malta Research Trust (RIDT). The performance will be held at St Publius Church, Floriana, at 7.30pm. Book tickets from St James Cavalier, Valletta; T: 2122 3200; http://ticketengine.sjcav.org
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COVER STORY
A Bird’ s Eye View OF MALTA’S THRIVING ECONOMY It might be a surprise for those who do not know much about Malta, but the islands' economy is firing on all cylinders. Marie-Claire Grima looks at the different sectors which are helping to establish the islands as a service economy powerhouse.
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St Julian's aerial view - Photo: viewingmalta.com
COVER STORY With their diminutive size, scant natural resources and a collective population of less than half a million people, the Maltese islands seem like unlikely candidates for muscular rates of economic growth. However, that’s precisely what the islands have been seeing for well over a decade. The country’s accession to the European Union in 2004 opened up countless doors for foreign investors who saw its political stability, its advantageous geopolitical location and its business-friendly tax rates and incentives as significant compensation for any other resources that it may lack. Good governance and a strong and stable financial sector helped it weather the global recession that started in 2008 and emerge none the worse for wear, while many of its neighbours in Southern Europe had to fight to keep their heads above water. Eight years on, Malta’s economic prospects continue to look dazzling. According to a statement from the Finance Ministry published in December, 2015 was another strong year, with the economy registering a GDP growth of 5.4 per cent in real terms during the third quarter – the highest rate in the Eurozone, outstripping its average of 1.6 per cent, and exceeding expectations set by both the Central Bank and the Budget. The professional, scientific and technical sectors and administration and support activities were credited with the lion’s share of increased activity, followed by the financial and insurance sectors, and there were also remarkable gains noted in real estate activities, wholesale and retail trade, accommodation and food service activities; the lone outlier which saw
a decline was the manufacturing sector. Investment rose by more than a fifth during the first nine months of the year, while the rise in consumer expenditure seemed to indicate that a significant chunk of the population had more disposable income to do with as they pleased. In a country as small as Malta, attracting foreign money is the lynchpin upon which most of the government’s plans for sustained economic growth hinge. And we’re not just talking about the money spent on a quick bank holiday getaway – while the islands’ tourism figures break records year on year, visitors are flocking to Malta’s shores for more than just sun, sea and sand during the summer months. With a highly diversified and sophisticated service economy, Malta is attracting people to the islands for a growing array of reasons, ranging from a scenic wedding location to an affordable place to receive medical care, to an academic destination. “We can provide everything that destinations like London can offer, except we’re in the Mediterranean, offering the same level of service at a more reasonable price. As Malta grows as a destination for medical tourism and tertiary education, it will also help make up for an endemic deficiency in Malta’s tourism industry – the lack of interest during off-peak months – and supplement other industries, including the hospitality, housing and retail sectors,” Finance Minister Edward Scicluna said in an interview with annual business publication Economic Vision last year. In fact, a considerable amount of private and public investment is being poured into the medical ➜ 13
COVER STORY and academic sectors in hopes of attracting and keeping a new bracket of visitors. A private institution of higher education, which has raised its fair share of controversy, is being built at Żonqor Point in Marsascala, while the Gozo and St Luke's hospitals are being developed and transferred to the private sector under a government investment proposal worth €200 million. Barts and The London School of Medicine and Dentistry is also opening a medical campus on the site of the Gozo Hospital. It will be Barts’ first overseas medical campus, offering the same curriculum as the London medical school, and will host 300 students, with the first intake of 60 students expected at the end of 2016. The success of the foreign companies which have set up shop in Malta rests on the nation’s twin pillars of pro-business policy and a favourable industrial climate, which get stronger each year as Malta continues to refine its knowledge-based industry. According to the annual attractiveness survey issued by EY, Malta’s attractiveness for Foreign Direct Investment is still growing, with more than 80 per cent of executives quoted in the report stating that Malta has a huge potential for foreign investments.
“It’s a very exciting time for entrepreneurs here in Malta,” says Sergio Montebello, the British-born head of start-up firm Fibonacci Marketing, based in St Julian’s. “With strong economic growth, favourable tax benefits and a bilingual workforce, Malta is an easy and attractive place to set up shop. It’s that old cliché but Malta is in a prime central location, just a stone’s throw away from important European cities. Even though we are currently in the process of opening an office in the UK, our head office and majority of our operations will continue to be right here in Malta with its wonderful weather, solid infrastructure and growing business opportunities.” While Malta’s economy has certainly moved away from tourism as the last word in generating jobs and revenue, this by no means indicates that the sector is being neglected – it is simply being revamped in line with the increasingly sophisticated and wealthy clientele that Malta seeks to attract. Take the Corinthia-owned International Hotel Investments: founded by distinguished international hotelier and current chairman Alfred Pisani, the group has luxurious hotels in
While the islands’ tourism figures break records year on year, visitors are flocking to Malta’s shores for more than just sun, sea and sand during the summer months. London, St Petersburg, Budapest and Lisbon, to name but a few, and in January 2015, announced that it had joined forces with the Island Hotels Group for a merger that would launch Malta’s first-ever foray into six-star tourism. The super luxury hotel, whose development would cost more than €400 million, will take over the site currently occupied by the San Ġorġ Corinthia, the Corinthia Marina and the Radisson Blu hotels in St Julian’s. Mr Pisani believes that while visitor numbers will continue to increase, the saturation point in terms of room numbers has been reached, and Malta needs to ramp up its efforts to improve the overall standards of what it could offer its visitors. His parting remark sums it up succinctly – “we should be aiming to develop a five- or six-star destination, not just one property.”
EVENTS
Easter procession - Photo: Jürgen Scicluna - viewingmalta.com
As the days grow longer… So the cold gets stronger – or so the proverb goes. However, the Maltese winter this year has been exceptionally mild, even by local standards, providing the perfect weather for a slew of cultural and social activities all over the islands. Marie-Claire Grima gives an overview of the wild and wonderful events taking place between February and March. A RIOT OF COLOUR AND SOUND The first Carnival was held in 1535, when Malta was under the rule of the Knights of St John, and it remains a beloved tradition, the final hurrah before the solemnity of Ash Wednesday, Lent and Holy Week, with the official Carnival anthem describing it as ‘the time everyone has been waiting for’. Celebrations take place in Valletta and Floriana between 5 and 9 February, with riotous partying in Nadur, Gozo over the weekend. While the Carnival in Valletta is a family-friendly affair with colourful floats, marching bands 16
and dancing displays, the Gozitan carnival is rather more raucous and more suitable for older teens and adults. Visit maltaculture.com to find out more about the various ways Carnival is celebrated around the islands.
RITES AND RELIGION St Paul brought Christianity to Malta when he was shipwrecked on the island in 60AD, an auspicious event which was recorded in the New Testament and remains a source of pride to this deeply Catholic nation. His feast day is commemorated on 10 February,
a national public holiday, with elaborate celebrations taking place on the streets of Valletta. The same date this year also marks Ash Wednesday, the start of Lent, leading up to Holy Week and Easter, so celebrations of the feast are being held during the last weekend of January. While Lent tends to pass by unremarkably, Holy Week sees seven days of grand processions and imposing religious celebrations. The feast of Our Lady of Sorrows (18 March) sees many adherents walking barefoot in chains and hoods behind a statue of the
EVENTS icing or chocolate. If you don’t have a friendly Maltese auntie or grandmother to make them for you, don’t worry – the nearest bakery or supermarket is sure to be wellstocked with these goodies at this time of year. (Turn to page 51 for an interview with a figolla-maker).
Good Friday procession - Photo: viewingmalta.com
Duluri, whilst on Good Friday (25 March) the passion of Christ is commemorated during an austere ceremony, followed by a procession with participants dressed up as biblical figures. One can find Valletta, Isla, Birgu, Bormla, Mosta, Rabat, Għargħur, Qormi, Naxxar and Żebbuġ amongst the Maltese cities and towns most famous for this ritual. On Easter Day, all the trappings of mourning are cast off and the island is alight with celebration,
starting with the ringing church bells early in the morning. Easter, for many Maltese, is like a midseason Christmas – a chance to sit around the table with friends and family feasting on seasonal specialities, including roast lamb and fresh cheese pies. However, the most iconic Easter-related food in Malta is definitely the figolla – a delicious baked confection made by sandwiching a thick almond paste between two slabs of pastry and decorating it with In Guardia parade - Photo: viewingmalta.com
CULTURE AND HISTORY The Changing of the Guard ceremony is held every last Friday of the month and symbolises the formal handover of responsibility from one guard to another. Led by the Armed Forces of Malta Band, the guard proceeds towards St George’s Square through Republic Street, in order to exchange duties with the new guard in the square. Following the exchange of duties, the AFM Band conducts a marching display in the same square. The In Guardia Parade is a reenactment portraying the inspection of Fort St Elmo by the Grand Bailiff in charge of military affairs in order to ensure that the fort is in good condition to defend the Valletta peninsula and the two harbours situated on either side of it. Kitted out in their finest uniforms, around 50 re-enactors perform their military drill, showing off their readiness in the event of a military threat. For the full calendar of re-enactments, check out visitmalta.com. The St Patrick’s Day Parade, first organised in 2013 by the IrishMaltese Circle in Valletta, sees an uptick in attendance every year. And while in Malta St Patrick isn’t afforded the liturgical grandeur that other saints are treated to every summer weekend in most villages, 17 March sees throngs of people heading to St Julian’s in ➜ 17
EVENTS green attire to make merry and drink endless pints of Guinness. Heritage Malta, the national agency for museums, conservation practice and cultural heritage, is organising a guided tour of the Mnajdra Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to mark the Spring Equinox which takes place between 20 and 21 March, which will allow visitors the opportunity to witness the sun rays passing directly through the temples’ main doorway and lighting up the main axis. Tickets are in short Good Friday procession - Photo: viewingmalta.com
Mnajdra Temples - Photo: Clive Vella - viewingmalta.com
supply, so if you’re interested in being part of an awe-inspiring event that only takes place twice a year, visit heritagemalta.org. While the vestiges of Malta’s colonial history are still evident for all to see, from the red phone boxes that still dot our pavements to the fact that we drive on the left side of the road, the last British forces left the island when the Defence Treaty ended on 31 March, 1979. Activities commemorating Freedom Day take place in Vittoriosa, where the monument marking the event stands. For more information, visit maltaculture.com
MUSIC AND ENTERTAINMENT The internationally acclaimed singer-songwriter and Lady in
Red hitmaker Chris de Burgh will be performing live on stage at the Republic Hall within the Mediterranean Conference Centre in Valletta on 26 February. For more information and to book tickets visit mcc.com.mt. The second edition of the Annie Mac Presents: Lost and Found Festival, from 31 March to 3 April, will feature a stellar line-up of international artists, including Stormzy, Mark Ronson, Hudson Mohawke and Groove Armada, as well as a brace of upand-coming local acts. The festival will be held at Numero Uno, in Attard, as well as various other venues. For more information about acts and tickets, visit www.lostandfoundfestival.com
CULTURE
a Vibrantdisplay Carnival in Malta
Photo: Darrin Zammit Lupi
Colourful floats, dancing queens, bright costumes, entertaining re-enactments – all will be there at this year’s Carnival, and much more besides. Carnival activities will be held in various towns and villages around Malta, not just Valletta. In particular, a Carnival Band Parade will take place in Main Street, Ħamrun, on Sunday 7 February. Starting at 10am, this parade will involve the participation of three carnival floats including King Carnival, five bands, the Ħamrun Scouts Group, grotesque satirical masks and dance companies. There will also be an entertainment stage and a costume
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competition. Fourteen colourful floats and several grotesque masks will then proceed to Valletta to take part in the parade, which will leave Castille Square and continue along Merchants Street, St George’s Square and Republic Street. Once again, this year’s activities will include the recently revived qarċilla – a carnival farce going back to at least 1760 – which is led by a notary together with a bride and groom, their parents and witnesses. The qarċilla makes fun of contemporary society, using humorous suggestive verse. In this year’s qarċilla, written by Immanuel Mifsud, a well-known
Maltese author who has just won the National Book Prize with his novel Jutta Heim, the notary will proclaim the marriage of two men. The festivities which have become an essential and popular part of the Carnival calendar ➜
Photo: Darrin Zammit Lupi
CULTURE of events will be taking place as usual in the streets of Floriana and Valletta, with St George’s Square being the main focus of activity. These events include the grand défilé as well as competitions for floats and dancing companies. New attractions this year include a show to be held on Sunday at 2.30pm, in St George’s Square, accompanied by a live marching band. On Saturday evening, festivities will continue into the night, giving merry-makers the opportunity to keep on celebrating. On Tuesday, the grand défilé will come to a close at 9.30pm. Other events linked to this national celebration will include an exhibition of miniature candy floats, which will also be the subject of a competition between confectioners and hotels. This exhibition can
Photo: Ian Noel Pace
be viewed at Pjazza Teatru Rjal, Valletta, from 4 to 9 February. Seating will be available for
events at St George’s Square. Tickets can be purchased online from www.ticketline.com.
GOZO
Make
life
fun
Gozo Carnival – 5-9 February 2016
Photo: Tonio Schembri
Carnival is a colourful and fun celebration in Gozo – for five consecutive days, between 5 and 9 February, the island’s intense, Mediterranean blue and green landscapes are rivalled by the colours of Carnival costumes and floats that put towns and villages in an upbeat mood. Carnival precedes Lent and in the past, the deeply religious population yearned for a time to revel and have fun prior to the rigorous exigencies of this period. In the past, feasts were few and far between, and the 40-day fasting period during Lent that ended on Easter Saturday was followed strictly. Life centred on farming and people tilled the fields from dusk till dawn, so Carnival celebrations were a much-awaited event, starting from the Thursday
preceding Ash Wednesday, which was known as Giovedi Grasso, till the following Tuesday. Gozitans are renowned for their distinct Carnival celebrations. Young and old dress up in colourful costumes and beautiful or grotesque masks. Attire does not have to be elaborate, and anything pulled out of the wardrobe that is worn flimsily, funnily or inappropriately is within range, as long as it offers good disguise. The main activities take place in the town of Victoria (ir-Rabat) and in Nadur, though other villages like Xagħra, Xewkija and Għarb create their fair share of fun too. Celebrations in Rabat include parades with floats, costumes and rhythmic dance, and are held in the evening on each day. A Carnival celebration specifically dedicated
to children will also be held on Saturday 6 February in the morning. Carnival in Nadur is deeply traditional and essentially spontaneous. Here, the purpose of costumes is disguise – it is pure fun, a concoction of costumes that make people unrecognisable and most remain silent to aid their disguise, gaining the Nadur celebrations the sobriquet, the silent carnival. There is only one precondition for the start of the Nadur celebrations: sunset! Other localities such as Xagħra have their own traditions. This locality is in fact renowned for its kumittiva, which consists of various folkloristic dances accompanied by the daqqaqa playing traditional Maltese instruments. For more information go to www.visitgozo.com 23
TAKE NOTE
Mediterranean Ceramics Mediterranean Ceramics products are beautifully crafted by local artisans. Their volcanic stone table tops, kitchen counters, chairs and bar stools will adorn your home with beauty and quality that lasts. Visit Mediterranean Ceramics in the Ta’ Qali Crafts Village, just a few kilometres away from the former medieval capital of Malta, Mdina. Or you can visit their shop at the Valletta Waterfront, just off the cruise liner terminal. The company offers free shipping to the UK, Australia and the USA. Tel: 2010 5552/3; E: info@mediterraneanceramics.com; www.mediterraneanceramics.com
Valletta Living History Valletta Living History is a high definition multi-lingual audio-visual show depicting the history, culture and lifestyle of Malta and the Maltese, showing everyday at the Embassy Complex in the heart of Valletta. Relive the Great Siege between the brave Knights and fierce Ottomans, the French and British rule, and World War II till today. Many recommend it as the best first stop when visiting Valletta. Open seven days a week with shows at 10, 10.45, 11.30am, 12.15, 1, 1.45, 2.30 and 3.15pm. Valletta Living History, Level 2, The Embassy Complex, St Lucia Street, Valletta. T: 2722 0071; www.maltaattraction.com
February is the month of love Treat the one you love to a fabulous romantic dinner à deux at the de Mondion, or step it up a notch and book one of our exquisite rooms at The Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux, the ideal setting for a celebration of love. Valentine’s Day is that time of the year to indulge in quality time with
that special person in your life, and relaxing in one of our suites with a delightful cocktail given to you upon your arrival is a great way to start! Pamper your loved one in the romantic ambiance of one of our award-winning restaurants for a memorable haute cuisine experience and treasure your time together, and let us add the extra romantic touches to your room, including breakfast in bed and rose petals on turn down.
For more information and bookings please contact us on T: 2145 0560; E: info@xarapalace. com.mt; www.xarapalace. com/www.demondion.com/ www.palazzodepiro.com 27
LIFESTYLE
Islands of
Love
Love is in the air at this time of year, and the Maltese islands serve as a beautiful backdrop for romance come Valentine’s Day. From relaxing spa treatments, cultural outings and countryside walks to adventurous activities like diving, abseiling and quad biking followed by a romantic meal or dancing the night away, Sarah Micallef discovers all the ways you can really make the most of a romantic holiday in Malta at this time of year. The Mediterranean islands of Malta and Gozo make for a wonderful spot for a romantic vacation. First, there’s the scenery: from the lush country landscape to the rugged coastline, it’s a wonderful place to explore on foot. A number of areas in the north of Malta, namely Mellieħa
: Clive Vella - viewingmalta.com
View of the Cittadella, Gozo - Photo
and Golden Bay, offer some pretty walking routes at this time of year, and if you plan it right, you can end your walk with a little picnic on the beach, just in time to watch the sunset. If, on the other hand, you and your significant other share a taste for adventure, there are a host of outdoorsy activities that are bound to get your adrenaline pumping. Book yourselves in for an afternoon of rock climbing, abseiling or zip-lining against a backdrop of imposing cliffs, or experience more of the Maltese countryside by going quad biking, off-road biking or even hit the
Photo: Markus Kirchgessner - viewingmalta.com
water for some diving or kayaking. There are several sports clubs and companies that will be able to help you plan your adventure on the islands, whatever your preferences or experience level. Meanwhile, if you’re more of a traditional romantic, Malta also boasts plenty of options for some quiet time away with your loved one. The historic and picturesque streets of pretty towns and cities like Valletta, Mdina and Vittoriosa are beautiful to explore by lamp light after dark, and each has its own serene atmosphere. And when you tire of exploring their narrow streets ➜
Just a short ferry ride away, the peaceful sister isle of Gozo offers a romantic atmosphere and something a little bit different. 29
LIFESTYLE
The historic and picturesque streets of pretty towns and cities like Valletta, Mdina and Vittoriosa are beautiful to explore by lamp light after dark, and each has its own serene atmosphere.
hdeir Granados - viewingmalta.com Street in Mdina - Photo: Maysun Abu-k
and cobbled alleys, why not stop at one of the island’s top restaurants and wine bars for a romantic dinner for two, or if you’re in the capital and in the mood for some culture, check out what’s on at the theatre. Alternatively, if you’re after a little more excitement on your night out, the bustling seaside towns of Sliema and St Julian’s offer a vibrant and cosmopolitan atmosphere. Here you’ll find a cinema showing the latest
blockbusters, spas with special treatments for couples, quality restaurants in which to enjoy a delicious meal, as well as lively bars and clubs if you’re looking to let your hair down and dance the night away. Just a short ferry ride away, the peaceful sister isle of Gozo offers a romantic atmosphere and something a little bit different. Do as the locals do and head over for a relaxing weekend, in which you can enjoy the laidback atmosphere that the island is so well known for. Take it easy and enjoy a spa visit with your partner, or just explore the rural landscape, stopping for a bite to eat at one of the many great restaurants. There are also some lovely accommodation options on offer, from boutique hotels to farmhouses for a truly romantic escape. And once the scene is set and romance is in the air, could this be the time for that long-awaited proposal? Malta and Gozo boast many beautiful and romantic sites that will provide the perfect backdrop for you to pop the question, including beaches, ➜ Photo: viewingmalta.com
LIFESTYLE
Sunset over Mdina - Photo: John Calleja - viewingmalta.com
countryside, historic settings and romantic restaurants, and it doesn’t have to stop there! The Maltese islands are increasingly becoming a popular option for destination weddings among foreign couples looking for a warm, historic and picturesque setting for their big day. Statistics show that around 500 foreign couples head to Malta each year for their ‘I do’s, and the number continues to grow each year. It’s therefore no surprise that the islands have become completely geared up for foreign weddings as a result, with several companies offering all manner of facilities to help couples really take advantage of the best
Statistics show that around 500 foreign couples head to Malta each year for their ‘I do’s. that the islands have to offer. One of the aspects that makes Malta such a popular wedding destination is the fact that the Photo: KG events - www.kgeventsandco.com
island offers a wide variety of settings for a couple’s big day, with places suited to both church and civil ceremonies, as well as historic and contemporary venues. Meanwhile, catering is also an important part of proceedings, and local caterers have stepped up to the plate when it comes to creating innovative menus for both sit-down meals and stand-up receptions. And the best part of it all? Couples love the fact that they can extend their celebrations in Malta beyond their big day, having a great time on holiday with family and friends too – a fitting way to begin married life!
HERITAGE
Preserving
a Prehistoric jewel The Tarxien Temples are the best-preserved megalithic remains in the harbour region of the Maltese islands. The site consists of a group of four structures dating back to the Neolithic period and the oldest surviving structure dates back to the Ġgantija Phase (3600-3200BC). Over time, further structures were erected, and this sometimes involved the modification of pre-existing structures to accommodate new ones. The site was also used in the Early Bronze Age (2400-1500BC), when parts of the buildings were utilised as a cremation burial. Later on, the site was also used during the Roman Period as part of an agricultural complex. The Neolithic complex was eventually forgotten and the area was covered in agricultural fields until its archaeological significance was determined by Sir Temi Zammit during the excavations he conducted there between 1915 and 1919. Discoveries 34
during these excavations included anthropomorphic statuettes, phallic representations and a number of animal representations carved in relief. These excavations also aided in the better understanding of Maltese Prehistory, especially the Late Neolithic and Early Bronze Age. The importance of the Tarxien Temples was further affirmed by their inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the Megalithic Temples of Malta. Shortly after his excavations, Sir Temi Zammit observed that delicate features in the newly uncovered site, such as reliefs, were starting to degrade. The solution proposed was the construction of a shelter to “... (protect) the Tarxien Temples from the adverse action of sunshine and rain”, and funding was obtained for the project. Unfortunately, this project never materialised, and as a conservation measure, reliefs and artefacts which were showing signs of deterioration were moved indoors to the National
Museum of Archaeology, and replicas were placed in their stead. The deterioration observed by Zammit continues to this day, and is due to various mechanisms such as the effect of heavy rainfall, hot summers, wind and sea spray, biological organisms and pollution. It was the Scientific Committee for the Conservation of the Megalithic Temples that in 2000 determined that a protective shelter would be the best protection for the Maltese temple sites. This decision was reached after detailed studies demonstrated that protective shelters would help in reducing the environmental changes within the sites and would therefore reduce their rate of deterioration. The protective shelter and walkway at the Tarxien Temples were constructed as part of the ERDF032 Project which is
HERITAGE
The walkway also makes the Tarxien Temples the first such site in Malta which is fully wheelchair accessible. funded by the European Union. Before their construction a series of archaeological, biological, hydrological, structural and topographic preliminary studies were done in order to determine the impact these structures would have on the site and its surroundings. The walkway also makes the Tarxien Temples the first such site in Malta which is fully wheelchair accessible. The
protective shelter, which has a minimal permanent impact on the temples, covers over 3,500 square metres of the site, and protects all of the main archaeological remains. In addition, a mobile app has recently been launched for the Tarxien Temples with which visitors can use their own smart phones or tablets to guide themselves around the site and get a detailed explanation of what they are
seeing. The app includes the back story behind the discovery of the site, and the protective measures which are currently being taken in order to ensure its preservation. The premium version of the app also includes additional features such as 360o images of parts of the site which are inaccessible to the public, a description of artefacts which were found on site, 3D models of some of these artefacts and additional tour points. For more information, visit www.heritagemalta.org App Store QR CODE
Play Store QR CODE
TAKE NOTE
Fun for Everyone A Personal Account
Mdina Gate - Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com
I wasn’t too sure about Malta at first, if truth be told. I always feel a little awkward travelling on my own for some reason, and I really had to suppress my reservations when I made my booking. However, I’d heard a little about it from a couple of friends and a relative who had gone there last year and had a fabulous time, and I thought that I’d have to try it, if only to stop their incessant jabbering about it. So there I was, all awkward and ungainly, and feeling very selfconscious in the hotel lobby, when along came this bubbly little ‘rep’, all friendly and positive, full of ideas of wonderful things to do during my stay, and the more I listened to her the more I realised that I was going to make this holiday fun and unforgettable, and that ‘Mr Negative’ can go and take a hike.
So I booked three adventurous (by my standards) excursions: Spirit of Malta (Ahoy There Mateys!), Medieval Mdina and, believe it or not, a Segway Tour – even I couldn’t believe it. And yes, the Segway took a little getting used to but I mastered it in no time and I’m so glad I went. It’s a little hard to describe, but Malta seemed to bring out something in me I hadn’t felt in years. ‘Alive’ would be the easiest word that comes anything close to explaining it. I made a few friends during my stay, including a couple who live just 45 minutes up the road from me back home and with
whom I promised to keep in touch. They want to introduce me to a friend they know when I get back… oo-er! So the long and short of it is, I had a marvellous time. There was so much to do and the people were extremely friendly. I will go again, and I have been incessantly jabbering about the charms, both hidden and in plain view of Malta to everyone who will listen. And if I can’t find anyone who will listen, I turn to my poor, long-suffering dog, Rex. Good boy, Rex! Arrigo Group Ltd, 248, Tower Road, Sliema. T: 2349 2349. 37
MUST VISIT
Spotlight on
St Julian’s A colourful town by day and nightlife hub by night, St Julian’s is a town of contrasts with something for everyone. Martina Said highlights this sleepless town’s best assets.
Spinola Bay – stroll along this coastal inlet during daytime, when the small, colourful fishing boats can be seen bobbing in the water. It’s especially picturesque before sundown, when the bay is bathed in a soft, balmy light. For the early birds, a visit at dawn is equally charming – find an empty bench and enjoy a take-away coffee and your favourite book before the Balluta Bay
town comes to life. You’ll notice a number of restaurants by the water, all of which offer something unique and tempting to dig into, and if you keep walking past them to the end of the bay, you’ll notice some of the town’s oldest authentic boat houses. Balluta Bay – Along the promenade, in the direction of Sliema, is Balluta Bay, and one of the highlights of this area is the architecture that encloses it. Three villas – one of which has been transformed into a restaurant – with beautiful façades stand majestically facing the bay. Opposite
Spinola Bay
are a number of recessed terraced houses, and between them stands the neo-gothic Carmelite Church with long, spindly bell towers. The architectural beauty here is Balluta Buildings: a monumental apartment block and the legacy of a brief flirtation with art nouveau by some Maltese architects, which towers over the diminishing bay. Yacht watching – Portomaso marina is one of the island’s most upmarket spots, which you can access from the same road that leads to the 23-storey Portomaso Tower nearby. Boat and yacht enthusiasts can immerse themselves in marina life here, complete with a varied range of dining options and plenty of stunning boats to observe as they enter and exit the marina. ➜ 39
MUST VISIT Stop and shop – Further up from Spinola Bay and bordering the nightlife hub of Paceville are numerous shops and outlets, many of which sell top designer brands, in what is increasingly becoming Malta’s luxury shopping district. Cut through Paceville and head to Bay Street shopping complex, in St George’s Bay for a mix of high street brands, restaurants, family entertainment and a four-star hotel. It’s open from 10am to 10pm all week long, so you’ve got all the time you need to squeeze in a shopping spree. Fun and entertainment – Try your luck at one of a number of fully-equipped and state-of-theart casinos in the area, featuring everything from slot machines and cash games to roulette and poker tables. If things get hot and heavy, pop into one of many nearby bars for a refreshing drink or two. And if gaming and bar-hopping aren’t your thing, head to Malta’s largest and only cinema in the area and choose from a number of new Hollywood, independent and local film releases or to a nearby bowling alley – the only one of its kind locally – for a few rounds of fun. Ice-cream pit-stop – The route from Balluta to Paceville is dotted with ice-cream parlours and Photo: viewingmalta.com
Paceville, St.Julian's - Photo: Clive Vella - viewingmalta.com
even if it’s not the weather for it (yet), we suggest you dig into a scoop or two of the many mouth-watering flavours you’ll find along the way. Hit the clubs – Paceville and the surrounding area is where you’ll find the widest choice of nightlife options on the island, in what is renowned as Malta’s nightlife mecca. From RnB and rock to house and electronic, there’s something to satisfy all music tastes. Unsure of which club plays what? The best way to go about picking your favourite one is to pop in and get a feel of the place, and decide for yourself. Panoramic views – Combine good food and great views in one evening by booking a table at one of the high-rise hotels in the area. St Julian’s by day is bustling – a colourful sight worth watching, and by night is a spectacular display of lights. The Place to Stay – You’ll find anything from hostels and affordable hotels to the more luxurious kinds as well as apartments for rent, but one notable trend that’s taking the local lodging scene by storm is the rise of
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boutique accommodation. Jankarl Farrugia, founder and managing partner of Hotelogique – the company behind a number of local boutique accommodations, including Jules Suites in St Julian’s – says “today's traveller is seeking alternative styles of boutique accommodation, ones which offer a more personal service and a home-away-from-home kind of environment. However, larger hotels and resorts with conference facilities and a wider food and beverage offering play an important role in this location. St Julian’s offers such a variety of hospitality options, which is needed to accommodate today's discerning traveller.” A wining and dining hub – Apart from its variety of clubs and entertainment options, this town draws crowds for its sheer diversity of options to wine and dine. You’ll find everything under the sun: from local and traditional to Mediterranean and international cuisines, from cheap places to refined dining options, and from drop-ins to dine-in and take-away too – you name it, you’ll find it.
TAKE NOTE
Your Shopping
destination of choice
Since its inception in March 2010, The Point – the largest shopping mall in Malta – has succeeded in firmly establishing itself as the shopping destination of choice on the island. The Point has been innovative and bold in its strategy and marketing campaigns, giving customers an unprecedented shopping experience and becoming a popular destination for all the family. The wide variety of top brands, comfortable ambience, ease of access and ample availability of parking spaces are only some of the components that helped The Point to achieve its success. Always customer-centric, the team at The Point manages to put together a vast calendar of events targeting various age groups and tastes. Competitions and offers are also available from various outlets and the mall itself on a regular basis. The Point Shopping Mall offers an experience like no other for customers who are looking for a good mix of outlets within any budget!
For a full calendar of events visit www.thepointmalta.com and The Point’s Facebook Page www.facebook.com/ThePointShoppingMall
7,000 years of history brought to life
Located in Malta’s capital city, Valletta, housed within what was once the Sacra Infermeria of the Knights of Malta, is The Malta Experience. This audio-visual spectacular is one of the largest attractions in Europe in terms of duration, system and language commentaries. It is also the only show that retraces 7,000 years of Maltese history. The 45-minute presentation can be listened to in one of 17 languages. In a purposely built auditorium, with a panoramic screen, sensational vision and a gripping commentary, The Malta Experience brings 7,000 years of history back to life. Shows are every hour on the hour as follows: Monday to Friday from 11am to 4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from 11am to 2pm. After the show one can also enjoy a tour of the Sacra Infermeria, the old hospital of the Knights of St John. Today, this beautiful building is known as the Mediterranean Conference Centre, but you can still step back in time and visualise its revolutionary past on a guided tour, and visit the
longest ward in Europe measuring 155 metres in length and holding 247 beds. Quote ‘Guide Me’ at the ticketing counter to claim your 15 per cent discount on the entrance fee (not valid with any other offer). Ask for a combined ticket which also includes a guided tour of The Sacra Infermeria – The Old Hospital of the Knights of St John.
The Malta Experience St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street, Valletta. T: 2124 3776; www.themaltaexperience.com 43
Chloé
FASHION
1970s fashion played a major role. Designers like Yohji Yamamato, Stella McCartney, Ralph Lauren and Vivienne Westwood embraced quintessential silhouettes associated with that time, with the flared trouser receiving quite a bit of the limelight. It looks equally great for work or play, but if you’re looking to dress up your look, opt for a beautifully tailored pair in a solid, bold colour and team with a crisp shirt and fitted jacket or blazer.
1970s FLARES Skinny jeans and fitted trousers are making way for flares in this season’s collections, in which
THE REEFER JACKET Another nod to the past this season comes in the form of the double breasted reefer jacket, which caused a stir in both Paris and New York fashion weeks. Reminiscent of United States Navy fashions, the reefer jacket will lend your look a seafaring military feel this winter, and if you’re looking for ways to style it, simply take a leaf out of top designers’ books. Chloé showed it in a long style, while at Nina Ricci the reefer was paired with a sheer lace skirt. Meanwhile, if you’re feeling nonchalant, simply throw it over your shoulders à la Michael Kors. ➜
Chanel
THE POLONECK An undeniably chic silhouette in winter is the poloneck-and-trousers combination. While plunging necklines dominated the hot months, cold weather favourite – the warm and comfy poloneck – is just about everywhere this year. You can choose to go sleek, fitted and stylish with a figure-hugging style or a slouchy oversized version for a comfy yet equally stylish take on one of the biggest trends of winter.
AG Jeans
Warm Winter Style
While the colder weather can make us long to dress comfortably, wrapping up for warmth doesn’t mean we can’t look stylish. Thanks to the wonderful array of winter 2015/16 collections, dressing up for the cold weather has never been more fun. Sarah Micallef discovers the top trends that will have you stepping out in style this season.
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FASHION THE FUR STOLE While we would never advocate wearing real fur, the beautiful array of faux varieties that are available today work just as well and are both warm and gorgeous to look at. A trend that really shone on autumn/ winter runways this year was the fur stole, and could be just what you need to beat the chill without going the whole hog, giving your look a touch of class at the same time. BOLD COLOURS We’ve all been guilty of relying on dark and neutral colours far too heavily during the colder months, but while the season generally seems to be dominated by black and grey, this year’s collections also feature bright pops of colour that are perfect for injecting a little vibrancy into your look. Whether you choose to go for one piece in a block colour or go wild in a top-to-toe statement outfit, look to collections by DKNY, Diane von Furstenberg, Versace and Prabal Gurung for inspiration.
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Prada
Hit the shops… Check out Malta’s top shopping destinations. Aquazzura
LEATHER Few materials appear quite as luxe as leather, and it’s really no surprise that it continues to be popular year on year during the colder months. This season, look to accessories like purses or shoes, as well as statement pieces like a formfitting skirt or jacket for your leather fix. And you need not stick to traditional colours – cool shades like aqua and beige are also proving popular. Tom Ford
VALLETTA Our beautiful capital city offers so much more than history and architecture. In and around the beautiful baroque buildings that line the city’s streets lie several high street outlets for a dose of retail therapy amid the culture and history lessons. Don’t miss: Republic Street, Merchants Street and The Embassy Complex
SLIEMA Sliema is the undisputed shopping centre of Malta. Look out for the main streets that house a variety of high street and designer brands, as well as the islands’ biggest shopping malls. Don’t miss: Bisazza Street, Tower Road, The Plaza Shopping Centre and The Point Shopping Mall
ST JULIAN’S For the more discerning shopper, the area opposite the upmarket complex of Portomaso is home to a selection of designer shops that beckon you to explore what’s on their beautiful rails. A shopping complex just down the road from the nightlife capital of Paceville is also open on Sundays. Don’t miss: Bay Street Shopping Complex and Portomaso
TAKE NOTE
Luna – the restaurant at Palazzo Parisio
Palazzo Parisio’s Luna restaurant combines a variety of culinary concepts set in a historic building. Every corner emanates femininity, luxury and a taste of history. In the morning, the Luna restaurant serves breakfast, snacks and lunch. In the afternoon you may enjoy the superb traditional English afternoon tea, with the possibility of purchasing a variety of fine teas from around the world for you to enjoy at home (we are open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea from Monday to Sunday all year round, excluding New Year’s Day.) You may choose from the sublime interior or the shaded tables on the garden terrace beside orange blossoms and bougainvillea. In the evening (open for dinner on Friday and Saturday only from January to March and from Tuesday to Sunday from April onwards), relish a kaleidoscope of tastes via the impressive ‘Menu Degustazione’ with some of the most creative and stylish food interpretations enhanced by a vast selection of wines. The heavenly desserts are impossible to resist. The lounge offers relaxation and understated luxury amid the
trendy Parisian-style interiors. Sit and sip exquisite aperitifs along with some tasty bar bites or enjoy the wide selection of vintage wines, champagnes, vodkas and a variety of innovative cocktails. Comment devotees praise “the varied and stylish menu,” and the “excellent service” in a “magnificent setting”.
Book your table on T: 2141 2461 Ext 2 or E: fb@palazzoparisio.com; 29, Victory Square, Naxxar. www.palazzoparisio.com
CUISINE
Flavours of Malta Easter figolli Figolli – pastry shapes filled with a thick almond paste – are staple Maltese treats at Easter. Jo Caruana meets brother-andsister home bakers Rachel and Michael Zammit Maempel to discover why they have maintained this well-loved tradition.
Michael and Rachel Zammit Maempel Photo: Alan Carville
Come spring – after the decadence and frivolity of Christmas, and the simplicity of January – Easter is just a few weeks away. Several Maltese take the Lenten period seriously. Some give up sweet treats as a sacrifice, while many attend the many masses, pageants and services organised to honour the solemn run-up to Easter.
Easter Sunday provides the light at the end of the tunnel. It signals the start of a vibrant celebration to mark the most important day in the Catholic calendar. It is usually enjoyed with family, over a long lunch of roast lamb or fresh fish, chocolate eggs and figolli. Figolli are a Maltese speciality and well-loved Easter treat. In the weeks leading up to Easter, the local air seems to take on an
almost-biscuity aroma, as home cooks and professional chefs all spend hours preparing their figolli according to their own recipe – usually one that has been handed down through generations. Although we don’t know exactly when figolli first came onto the local scene, the earliest recorded ones seem to have been decorated with dyed chicken eggs. Back then, traditional dyes were used, such as ones coloured with onion skin, vegetables and fruit. As the years went by, cooks started to make them for their families, and found new ways of decorating them, such as with chocolate and food colouring. One such home baker is Michael Zammit Maempel, who, along with his sister Rachel, bakes almost 100 figolli for family and friends. ➜ 51
Seasonal sweet treats
CUISINE
the pastry
The tradition of giving figolli has been around for a couple of centuries. 52
In fact, this creative duo has become well known for their particular recipe. “It was handed down through my mother’s side of the family from our nanna (grandma) Olga, who was the world’s most practical cook,” explains Michael, who is a lawyer by day and a keen baker by night. “We went to her for sustenance not gourmet delicacies, and her food was always functional but still delicious.” Michael explains that the tradition of giving figolli has been around for a couple of centuries. “In the 1800s nuts were very expensive and considered a delicacy, so only the rich would have had access to them. So, back then, figolli would have only really been enjoyed by the very wealthy. “However, as the ingredients became more affordable after World War II, more and more people started to enjoy them. Originally, the shapes would have been linked to religion – such as crosses or lambs – but, over the years, they have become as creative as you can imagine.” Michael and Rachel remember enjoying figolli in their childhoods. “I would watch nanna Olga making industrial amounts of figolli at her Kappara house; every surface would be covered in them!” continues Michael. “I recall following her around assiduously, waiting for the opportunity to lick the beater, and
While this season is led by the 40 days of Lent, the Maltese still ensure that there are plenty of treats about – here are some others you should try! The prinjolata, with its deliciously sweet nuances and splashes of colour atop a white background, encapsulates the spirit of Carnival. It is traditionally made in a dome shape using almonds and lots and lots of sugar, egg whites and icing. Kwareżimal, also known in English as Lenten cookies, are traditional biscuits eaten during the Lenten period made using ground almonds and topped with honey. Karamelli tal-ħarrub are made from the juice of the fruit of the carob tree. These hard, often square- or rectangular-shaped sweets, are normally eaten on Good Friday, as they are made from natural ingredients and so do not break the ‘no sugar’ rule.
I enjoyed observing how quickly and masterfully she would create batches of them for all the family. Eventually she gave up, and I decided to take over from her.” Michael takes his recipe very seriously. “It is very similar to my nanna’s, but I have simplified it through trial, error and lots of tasting. I have a very sweet tooth and I know what I like, so I have adapted my figolli to suit my tastes – and they seem to have been well received!” Michael’s recipe has been whittled down to what he terms ‘the bare basics’. While some figolli include everything from biscuits and almond essence to chocolate and icing sugar, his is far simpler. “It all starts with a good, sweet shortcrust pastry with some citrus added in,” he explains, referring to each figolla’s bottom layer. “I then top this with a simple nut paste made from crushed almonds, sugar, orange blossom water and egg whites. ➜
Prinjolata
Kwareżimal
Carobs
the filling
CUISINE This is laid over the pastry, and then topped with another layer of pastry. I believe this makes them very tasty, as each ingredient is really allowed to shine.” Each figolla is made into a particular shape and then covered in ornate icing patterns. Traditionally, it was usually fish, lamb or crosses that prevailed. Today, Michael and Rachel make all sorts, including crescent moons, houses, rabbits and hearts. “Rachel is the decorative whizz,” Michael continues, “so she takes over the process once I have finished the baking. She also tops them with home-made sugar paste flowers and little chocolate eggs. They look really pretty when they’re done and, as it’s a hobby we share, we look forward to making them every year.” And that’s a good thing – as friends and family literally line
up to get their hands on one of the duo’s figolli. “They are pretty popular,” Michael smiles, “which is a nice compliment! “I guess it comes down to the fact that we are very fussy about our ingredients; only the best make it in – from Sicilian nuts and organic British flour, to authentic Lebanese orange blossom water. They may be international, but they combine to make a very Maltese treat!” So, if you are visiting the islands over Easter season, Michael recommends sampling a figolla or two. “Try to stay away from anything that looks very mass produced, and do try a couple of different ones as they can vary quite substantially from one baker to another.” As for him and Rachel, they’re now very much in baking mode as they gear up for the Easter rush. “Yes
Each figolla is made into a particular shape and then covered in ornate icing patterns. it’s a lot of work, but it’s worth it,” he says. “The fact that figolli are only made and served once a year makes them that extra bit special, and it feels good to know we have kept our nanna’s tradition going while also making her recipe our own too. Now… let’s get back to the baking!” he adds with a grin.
EATING & DRINKING
Il-Mitħna Restaurant Il-Mitħna Restaurant offers simple yet creative dishes, ranging from doublebaked truffle soufflé and USDA hanger steak to our signature dark chocolate fondant. Free pick up and drop off service is also available from all Mellieħa areas upon request. Call on the numbers below for details and to reserve a table. Il-Mitħna Restaurant, Triq il-Kbira, Mellieħa. T: 2152 0404; M (Manuel Attard): 7947 8896; www.mithna.com; F: facebook.com/ilmithna
Le Malte Le Malte, distinguished by great service, excellent value and authentic dishes, specialises in Maltese and Mediterranean dishes including rabbit, horsemeat, beef olives (braġjoli) and snails, all cooked in the traditional way. Wine lovers are spoilt for choice with a selection of local wines. All those presenting this advert will be entitled to a free bottle of wine. Open from Monday to Sunday between noon and 11.30pm. Le Malte, Tower Road, Sliema (next door to Europa hotel). T: 2134 2242; M: 9987 8699; E: lemalterestaurant@gmail.com
Maltese Mama Maltese Mama serves authentic Maltese and Italian cuisines complemented with great service in a relaxing atmosphere. To start, patrons are offered a complimentary plate of traditional Maltese antipasti, served with fresh bread and galletti. Starters include home-made soups, octopus, scallops, clams, the speciality shellfish platter and pasta dishes. A variety of main courses is also available, with specialities including fish and traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit and braġjoli (beef olives). Maltese Mama, 19/2, Paceville Avenue, St Julian’s. T: 2737 7024; M: 7780 5312; E: eltonspiteri@hotmail.co.uk
Palazzo Preca Restaurant Palazzo Preca Restaurant is repeatedly awarded highly as one of the best restaurants in Malta and Gozo. It is situated in one of the most well-known historic streets in Valletta, within a beautiful 16th-century palazzo in Strait Street. An extensive and creative menu provides mouthwatering choices of food and fine local and foreign wines – and do not miss out on our delicious home-made desserts! Professional, dedicated, attentive staff will help you to ensure that your visit is a completely enjoyable experience. Wednesday is our special night when the lights are turned off and the restaurant is entirely lit by candles, creating an intimate and romantic ambience. Open Sunday lunch. Mondays closed all day. Bookings are recommended and are to be confirmed by phone. Palazzo Preca, 54, Strait Street, Valletta. T: 2122 6777; M: 9986 6640; www.palazzoprecarestaurant.com
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EATING & DRINKING
Shakinah – Indian Cuisine Situated on the St Julian’s seafront in Balluta Bay, Shakinah presents Indian tastes, scents and flavours, in an interesting selection of exquisitely prepared, colourful dishes. The fresh ingredients, oriental spices and interesting flavours are carefully hand-picked by our native-born Indian chefs. Great emphasis has been placed on the décor, mood and general ambience to ensure a true Shakinah special experience. So allow yourself to be transported on a magic carpet ride to the exotic orient in the heart of St Julian’s. Open Monday to Sunday 6.30-11pm. Sunday also open for lunch 12.30-3pm. Shakinah, 5, Ġorġ Borg Olivier Street, St Julian’s. T: 2731 8000; M: 7731 8000; E: booking@shakinahmalta.com; www.shakinahmalta.com; F: facebook.com/shakinahmalta
Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro Right in the heart of Sliema lies Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro, serving wholesome home cooking at unbeatable prices. Chef patron Chris uses the freshest ingredients to create tasty Maltese dishes like Dad’s Famous Braġjoli, thick beef stew, veal escalopes and rabbit, and for those with a sweet tooth, the deliciously crunchy imqaret – a must-try date-filled pastry. Patrons are also spoilt for choice with the daily specials ranging from fresh fish to beef fillet and various pasta dishes. Everything at this price-worthy restaurant is served in the unique setting of a former bakery. Ta’ Kris is one of the best-rated restaurants by the Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants. Ta’ Kris, 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema. T: 2133 7367; M: 9984 7713; www.takrisrestaurant.com
Ta’ Marija Celebrating 50 years of excellence, Ta’ Marija restaurant offers the ideal venue for colleagues, friends and family to celebrate any occasion with sumptuous food in welcoming surroundings, complemented by our exceptional service and merriment in the making. Enjoy our all-inclusive carvery buffets on Saturday evenings and Sunday lunches for just €25 per person, or indulge in a Maltese extravaganza on Friday nights with a spectacular traditional folk dancing show and our mandolins and guitars duo! Ta’ Marija Restaurant, Constitution Street, Mosta. T: 2143 4444; E: info@tamarija.com.mt; www.tamarija.com.mt
Ta’ Rita Lapsi Restaurant Ta’ Rita Lapsi Restaurant is renowned for its varied menu of exquisite dishes. Our most popular dish continues to be the succulent and tasty Maltese rabbit, although other specialities including grills, pasta dishes, pizzas, snacks, platters, burgers and other changing dishes which are highly sought-after by regular patrons. A vast selection of local and foreign wines is available for patrons to enjoy during their meal, and you mustn’t leave before savouring the delicious desserts which you can enjoy at the end of your meal or with a cup of tea or coffee. Special requests can be catered for, and flexibility is offered especially for groups and events. Take-away service is available. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Ta’ Rita Lapsi View Bar, Restaurant & Pizzeria, Għar Lapsi, Siġġiewi. T: 2164 0608.
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EATING & DRINKING
Terrone Terrone is a restaurant in the charming fishing village of Marsaxlokk that combines rustic charm with contemporary regional cuisine. Focusing on southern Italian and local Maltese cuisines, and hand-picking the best local and organic produce, we aim to recreate a healthy and enjoyable way of dining. We are open for coffee, lunch and dinner, as well as late-night drinks and sharing plates on the Marsaxlokk seafront. Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10am till late. Terrone, 1, Wilġa Street, Marsaxlokk. T: 2704 2656; E: info@terrone.com.mt; www.terrone.com.mt
The Boathouse Restaurant The Boathouse Restaurant in Xlendi, Gozo is a stunning seafront restaurant offering a unique culinary experience. In fact, The Boathouse has been acknowledged as one of the Top 40 Restaurants on the Maltese islands for the past five consecutive years, ranking among the Top 25 in 2016. It specialises in Mediterranean cuisine and offers an array of fresh fish and seafood, and a wide variety of meat and poultry dishes accompanied by an excellent list of local and international wines. Opens daily and caters for late lunches. Open: 1 April-31 October daily noon-10.30pm. If visiting between 1 November and 31 March, check the Events Section on our website www.theboathousegozo.com for detailed opening hours. Booking is highly recommended. Make a reservation on T: 2756 7207/2156 9153/2155 7661.
NIGHTLIFE
Musicaldiscovery Ahead of the release of her new album later this year and fresh off the stage following her sweeping victory at the Malta Eurovision Song Contest in January, renowned Maltese singer Ira Losco talks to Jo Caruana about her career and inspiration, and offers advice to visiting music lovers. Few Maltese singers have achieved as much success as awardwinning songstress Ira Losco. From her early days as a teen performer to the upcoming release of her sixth studio album, she has long been a beloved stalwart on the local scene, and has even achieved substantial international success. As we sit and chat, Ira talks me through the many highlights of her career so far. Her first major milestone, she recalls, was securing second place at the Eurovision Song Contest in 2002. This remains one of her favourite memories, especially as it was the closest the island had ever come to winning that coveted top spot. “After that, I released my first single, Love Me or Hate Me, as a singer-songwriter in 2003. That was
also very memorable,” Ira smiles. And the highlights have kept on coming: after that single it wasn’t long before she was signed by a record label, and she made her first music video on a 16mm, filmed in a castle in Germany in 2004. She then went on to tour internationally, performing alongside top names and at incredible venues. “It was the sort of experience I had dreamed about since I was little,” she grins. Ira released her second album soon after, which included hit songs such as Driving One of Your Cars and Accident Prone, both of which did incredibly well. Performing at Malta’s Isle of MTV festival – an annual event that attracts over 50,000 people and global stars – is another important moment to her, “because we
really got the crowd going, which was absolutely wonderful.” Most recently, in 2013, Ira released her third studio album, The Fire. “That was probably my proudest moment in musical terms because it represented exactly what I wanted to say. It is definitely my favourite album to-date.” ➜ 63
NIGHTLIFE
Fast forward to 2016 and Ira is now working on her latest album, which will be released later this year. “I am often referred to as unpredictable when it comes to my music and visual interpretations – probably because I love to experiment,” she continues, referring to how her musical style has morphed through the years. “I love change and can get bored of the same thing very quickly. Thus, my upcoming album represents that – it’s going to be pop primarily, but with occasional rap and reggae twists thrown in. I don’t think of myself as a typical ballad artist but, when I do write and perform a ballad, I want it to mean something. I’m pleased that this album already feels very meaningful and honest.” The album, which is as-yet 64
untitled, will have a local flavour to it too, as Ira has invited young Maltese singer, Destiny – the winner of the latest Junior Eurovision Song Contest – to collaborate with her on one of the songs. “Rhythmically, it’s quite interesting,” she says. “We were after grooves that will make listeners move, and it won't be long until it will be ready. It’s in the final stages of production, and I am working steadily with my producer Howard Keith at Jagged House Studios to complete it. That said, I won’t be releasing it till I am 100 per cent happy with it.” Asked about how being Maltese has affected her music, Ira stresses that she doesn’t think it has made much of a difference. “The difference lies in the limitations of reach and growth that we have in such a ➜
Ira’s Perfect Day
We ask her how she would spend an entirely workfree day on the island.
“Most of my Sundays are work-free and I really make the most of them. I don’t have lie-ins anymore, so I am up at 8.30am for a light breakfast, and I leave the house as quickly as possible so as to make the most of the day. “My partner and I usually head out to the countryside or to a spot by the sea, and then pick one of our favourite lunch spots to relax in. We love animals, so the afternoon could be spent visiting one of the farms – possibly in Gozo – to purchase some of their delicious local jams, tomato paste and fresh goats’ milk cheeselets. My advice is to just go with the flow, as there’s always something new to discover!”
NIGHTLIFE small island, but this is totally understandable,” she says. “In fact, what can seem to be a curse can also be a blessing – it’s all about how you look at it. For instance, in Malta we spend much less time travelling, and it’s definitely easier to test your product on the market here than it is overseas.” Ira believes the internet, social media and various music portals have all helped artists to grow in the business and to reach more people than ever before. “Getting my music out there, beyond Maltese shores, has helped to validate that I am on the right track. It has also toughened my skin and given me a different perspective away from Malta’s more insular approach,” she says. “The music scene has changed globally, though, not just locally. Today, Malta is no different to anywhere else, and that’s both good and bad. To make it count you have to embrace change not fight it. I like to look at any limitation that comes my way as an opportunity; it inspires me to leave my mark.” Malta also inspires Ira’s music
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in some ways. “I find so much beauty in the architectural and historical gems found around the island,” she says. “They have left such a mark on us as a people, and naturally influence what I do.” In fact, Ira advises visitors to ‘stay local’ and really get to know the ‘real Malta’. “There’s so much out there!” she enthuses. “The beaches are gorgeous – even at this time of year – and you can fit lots into your itinerary because the island is so small. I would suggest that you get hold of a calendar of events, because that will give you insight into all sorts of local activities, and will give you the
chance to meet Maltese people and experience life the way they do.” Ira also recommends making the most of the weather. “Although this is technically our winter, it never gets very cold, so it’s ideal for picnicking and adventuring when the sun shines. There’s also lots going on, such as our annual Carnival in Valletta, and the more alternative Carnival in Nadur, Gozo, which I highly recommend.” Finally, the singer also offers advice on how visiting music lovers can make the most of their stay. “Music is, of course, very subjective but there is all sorts to experience here, no matter what you’re into. Maltese folklore music is great to sample, but there’s also a fantastic range of artists producing and performing across the genres of rock, metal, electronic, pop, jazz and world music; I think most visitors would actually be surprised by the sheer variety available! If this sounds good to you, then I suggest you hop online to discover the best bands of the moment and learn about when and where they will next be performing. Then make your way over to their next local gig – I’m pretty sure you won’t be disappointed!”