Guide Me Malta

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018 €3 MALTA'S LEADING INDEPENDENT visitors’ guide

Eating & drinking

Exploring the islands’ craft beer scene

Fashion

Discover the season’s top fashion trends

Nightlife

The after-dark events you shouldn’t miss

Enjoy the best of the Maltese islands this autumn

your guide to events | fashion | eating & drinking | shopping

INSIDE

October/November 2018 EDITOR Martina Said PUBLISHERS Content House Group ADVERTISING Director of Sales & Business Development Matthew Spiteri Senior Brand Sales Executives Jean Mark Meli, Matthew Sciriha Advertising Sales Coordinator Elena Dimech Art Direction & Design Antoinette Micallef Box Design – T: +356 7969 1212

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Ġgantija Temples - Photo: viewingmalta.com

12 Calendar of events

The major events taking place in Malta and Gozo throughout October and November.

15 Cover story

25 Culture

10 picturesque streets to get lost in around Malta and Gozo – Sarah Micallef rounds up some of the islands’ most charming streets which are begging to be explored.

10 ways to make the most of autumn in Malta – From sightseeing in the capital, Valletta, to a quick jaunt to the sister isle of Gozo, Marie-Claire Grima rounds up the best things to do here in autumn.

Cover picture:

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Content House Group, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Mrieħel, BKR3000.

T: +356 2132 0713 E: info@contenthouse.com.mt W: www.contenthouse.com.mt

Published since 2005, Guide Me Malta is the largest and the leading independent guide for visitors in Malta and Gozo. The publication is published every two months. Guide Me Malta is distributed free of charge through leading hotels around Malta and Gozo. The publication is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo and at the La Valette Club within the Malta International Airport (MIA). It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at the Valletta Waterfront, Gozo Channel ferries and at MIA.

page 25

St Ursula Street, Valletta - Photo: Malcolm Debono - viewingmalta.com

Photography Berthold Werner, Continentaleurope, Emma Micallef, Frank Vincentz, Gage Skidmore, Giorgio Galeotti, Glenn Francis, Inigo Taylor, Jan Zammit, Justin Mamo, Kris Micallef, Luiz Centenaro, Malta Tourism Authority, Marco Maas, Northern Ireland Office, Tore Sætre

Chadwick Lakes, Malta

Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me Malta are not necessarily those of Content House Group and the company does not accept responsibility for advertising content.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

INSIDE

Photo: viewingmalta.com

October/November 2018

page 77

page 37 37 Things to do

Out in the country – With milder weather in our midst, there’s no better time to explore Malta’s countryside and all the naturebased activities it has to offer, as Marie-Claire Grima discovers.

49 Lifestyle

12 world famous celebrities with a tie to Malta – From Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, to Game of Thrones actress Kerry Ingram, Melanie Drury finds links between these global celebrities and Malta.

77 Fashion

Step into the cooler season in style – This year’s autumn/ winter trends are as diverse as it gets. From animal print to tweed to silver, Martina Said selects her favourite trends this season.

85 Nightlife

Malta after sunset – Just because the sun is setting earlier, it doesn’t mean that the local entertainment scene has waned.

Check out the many festivals, parties and events taking place throughout October and November.

page 57

57 Eating & Drinking

Hopping mad for craft beer – Rebecca Anastasi speaks to some of Malta’s craft beer makers to find out what goes into the art of a deliciously brewed pint of craft beer.

Photo: Lord Chambray Brewery

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FOREWORD

ISSUE

81

October/November 2018

Gozo - Photo: viewingmalta.com

Welcome to the Maltese islands!

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A

fter a long and sweltering summer, which many Maltese islanders crave as much as they long for it to be over, we welcome a cooler and more bearable change in season with open arms. Autumn in Malta doesn’t last too long (although many say we don’t have much of a winter either), which means that there’s no time to waste in making the most

FOREWORD

of what the season has to offer.

The cover story on page 15 explores the many activities, places to visit and events to attend throughout October and November, including a mandatory visit to the capital, Valletta, and a visit to the sister isle, Gozo. If exploring nature and the islands’ countryside is what you’re after, flip to page 37 for some of the

best routes in Malta and Gozo that guarantee the most stunning views. Alternatively, the culture feature on page 25 offers a glimpse into some of Malta’s most pictureperfect streets nestled within village cores and city hubs, which you should add to your holiday itinerary without further ado.

If it’s the local food and drink scene which got you here, turn to

page 57 for an insightful read on Malta and Gozo’s craft beer scene, which is steadily on the rise locally.

You’re likely to find several local craft beers at the countless pubs and bars dotted around the islands. With all this and much more, enjoy the autumn issue of Guide Me Malta!

Martina Said EDITOR

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2018 3 OCTOBER Cliff Zammit Stevens: 10th Anniversary Concert – The hugelytalented and internationally-renowned tenor Cliff Zammit Stevens will return to Malta for his largest solo concert to date, promising a night of unforgettable music in celebration of the 10-year anniversary of his career launch. The programme will feature not only the impressive repertoire by Zammit Stevens himself, but will also include a performance with special guest Ira Losco to mark the launch of their new single, Xemx. Venue: St George’s Square, Valletta. www.showshappening.com

4-7, 11-14 OCTOBER US/THEM – Written by Carly Wijs, this award-winning play sees brutal terrorism coinciding with child-like innocence.

Two child witnesses recall the events that took place on 1st September 2004, when a group of Chechen terrorists stormed into a school in the small town of Beslan, taking 1,200 hostages, leaving 334 dead, including 186 children. The historic Splendid venue in Valletta will be transformed into the Beslan school and gymnasium. The play will be performed in English. Venue: The Splendid, Valletta. www.showshappening.com

5-7, 12-14 OCTOBER The Jew of Malta – For the first time in Malta, MADC and Teatru Manoel have joined forces to produce Christopher Marlowe’s classic 1590s play, The Jew of Malta. In this dark, hilarious and subversive tragicomedy,

Marlowe cynically dissects a world where politics, greed and the three Mediterranean religions – Catholic, Muslim, and Jewish – clash. The Jew of Malta skewers all three in a fast-paced story that is at once tragic, farcical, and absurd. Venue: Teatru Manoel, Valletta. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt

5 OCTOBER-2 NOVEMBER Parallel Existences – In his longawaited new exhibition, celebrated photographer Alex Attard creates alternative identities for historical, centuries-old documents that were severely damaged during World War II, and which have since formed part of the Notarial Archives in Valletta.

Now, Attard creates a parallel existence for these objects through his artistic expression, where history inspires art, and art commemorates history by restoring time, memory and purpose to it. Venue: Valletta Contemporary, Valletta. www.alexattard.com

6 OCTOBER Notte Bianca – For one special night every October, Notte Bianca lights up the Valletta cityscape. Valletta’s streets, state palaces and museums will welcome patrons to experience the very best in music, dance, theatre, visual arts, literary events, and digital arts. This year’s programme features a line-up of both local and international acts, including musicians Emma Muscat and Biondo, Vinicio Capossela, Toploader, Tangerine Dream, The Selector and Beheaded.

Venue: Valletta. www.lejlimdawwal.org

7, 14, 21, 28 OCTOBER, 4, 11, 18, 25 NOVEMBER In Guardia Parade – The In Guardia Parade is a re-enactment that portrays an authentic event that took place regularly inside Malta’s major fortifications built by the Order of St John. During this event, the fort's garrison performs its military drill to demonstrate to the Grand Bailiff its state of readiness. The show begins at 11am and lasts 40 minutes. Venue: Fort St Elmo, Valletta. www.heritagemalta.com

12-14 OCTOBER Birgufest – Birgufest is a celebration of culture and art that takes place in Birgu (also known as Vittoriosa), one of Malta's oldest and most historic cities. The streets and houses are lit up with candles, chandeliers hang in the streets, and music ruminates throughout the winding pathways. Visitors can also enjoy historical re-enactments and dinner by candlelight in the beautiful town square. Most of the museums and historical buildings in the area, including the magnificent Fort St Angelo, open at a discounted price. Venue: Vittoriosa (Birgu).

13 OCTOBER Tosca – Giacomo Puccini’s timeless classic Tosca speaks of a dangerous love triangle between the glamorous opera singer Floria Tosca, the love-driven painter Mario Cavaradossi, and one of opera’s most memorable villains – the police chief Baron Scarpia. Melodrama and lyrical arias haunt this enduring masterpiece. Venue: Aurora Opera House, Gozo. www.teatruaurora.com

For the full online Malta Calendar of Events please go to: www.visitmalta.com/events-calendar

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19-21, 26-28 OCTOBER

2-11 NOVEMBER

Amadeus – The world-renowned Peter Shaffer play, Amadeus will be staged in English by Masquerade Theatre Company at Teatru Manoel. Directed by Stephen Oliver and featuring Thomas Camilleri as Mozart and Manuel Cauchi as Salieri, Amadeus follows the lives of composers Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Antonio Salieri in a fictionalised history of their intense competition in 18th-century Vienna, and highlights Salieri’s bitter envy in the face of Mozart’s musical genius. Venue: Teatru Manoel, Valletta. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt

Three Palaces Festival – The sixth edition of this week-long festival will once again see the participation of renowned international artists performing within the beautiful settings of three of Malta’s historical Baroque palaces – San Anton Palace, Verdala Palace and the Grandmaster’s Palace – together with the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta. Built during the time of the Knights of St John, these magnificent buildings have hosted many dignitaries and have held many important functions. www.3palacesfestival.com

25, 27 OCTOBER

4 NOVEMBER

La Traviata – La Traviata exhibits Giuseppe Verdi’s genius as a supreme interpreter of the human condition in all its strengths and weaknesses. Making full use of his dramatic prowess and intuitive sense of irony, Verdi's immortal score plumbs the depths of waywardness and redemption through love.

The Malta Philharmonic Orchestra will be conducted by Mro Paul Walsh, with Enrico Stinchelli as artistic director. Venue: Astra Theatre, Gozo. www.teatruastra.org.mt

String Quartets – As part of Modern Music Days, Zene Quartet will present a programme of original works by composers Philip Glass, Alfred Schnitke, John Adams and Norma Beecroft inside the underground crypt of the Żejtun parish church. This crypt is the largest in Malta’s diocese, designed

by Lorenzo Gafà and dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria. The concert will be taking place two days after All Souls’ Day, so the crypt will be decked in funereal paraphernalia of black damask and candles.

Venue: Żejtun Parish Church. www.teatrumanoel.comt.mt

26 OCTOBER, 30 NOVEMBER Changing of the Guard – The Changing of the Guard ceremony is held every last Friday of the month in St George’s Square, Valletta. The parade commences at 10.30am, with the AFM Band marching down Republic Street to the square. Here, the new guard marches out from the Main Guard to replace the old guard that marches out from The Palace, Valletta.

Following the exchange of ‘duties’, the AFM Band conducts a marching display in the same square. Venue: St George’s Square, Valletta. www.cityofvalletta.org

9 NOVEMBER ABBA Revival – The UK’s number one ABBA tribute band Revival is bringing the legendary Swedish pop group’s biggest hits to life in a spectacular show at Gianpula, in the limits of Rabat. ABBA Revival is known to wow audiences with its stunning costumes and energetic choreography, travelling back in time

to the 70s disco days. All profits will go towards Save Our Skyline, to carry out restoration works on St Paul’s Cathedral and help save Valletta’s iconic skyline.

Venue: Gianpula. www.ticketline.com.mt

16-25 NOVEMBER ŻiguŻajg – This annual arts festival for children and young people comprises a multidisciplinary programme of some of the best international productions together with commissions by Maltese creatives. The programme has a target audience of children and youths ranging from newborns to 16-year-olds. Every year the festival has over 150 performances with audiences exceeding 20,000.

Venue: Valletta. www.ziguzajg.org

17 NOVEMBER Percussion Ensemble – As the sixth and final concert in the Regional Concert Series of Modern Music Days, the strong, theatrical presence of percussion instruments will become even more dramatic thanks to the vaulted halls of the Citadel Cultural Centre, a versatile space that has served many purposes since it was renovated. Three percussionists will present works featuring an intriguing selection of instruments, ranging from the marimba to the vibraphone, and a variety of drums to cymbals, to portray a sculpture-like installation. Venue: Citadel Cultural Centre, Victoria, Gozo. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt

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COVER STORY

10 Ways To Make The Most Of

Autumn In Malta

Jacket and knit season is fast approaching, and on an island renowned for its beaches, that doesn’t leave much to do… does it? Of course it does – Marie-Claire Grima finds out all the different ways you’re guaranteed to end up falling for fall in Malta.

Valletta - Photo: Chen Weizhong - viewingmalta.com

Autumn in Malta doesn’t look like it does abroad. There are no fallen red-gold leaves crunching on the ground, and the sun blazes almost as brightly as ever. However, as the cool starts to creep in, you may find yourself wondering what there is to do at this time of year.

Don’t worry – we have you sorted.

1. Visit Valletta The capital city of Valletta is one of Malta’s star attractions. Nearly 500 years old, with history seeping from its limestone walls, it is home to some of Malta’s finest historical attractions including St John’s Co-Cathedral, Fort St Elmo and Casa Rocca Piccola. ➜

Handheld guide Download the free iMalta app to help you find your way around the islands by suggesting the best places to visit and sights to see.

The capital city of Valletta is one of Malta’s star attractions, with history seeping from its limestone walls.

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COVER STORY But don’t dare for a second think of it as some kind of lifeless fossil – it’s one of Malta’s busiest commercial centres, with countless shops, restaurants, bars, cafés, theatres, galleries and boutiques dotting its narrow streets. Valletta is also swiftly approaching the end of its year-long reign as the European Capital of Culture, which is all the more reason to visit it and soak up all the exciting events taking place – think Notte Bianca (6th October), a night-long festival where many of Valletta’s hidden nooks and crannies fling their doors open to the public; Orfeo and Majnun, a musical theatre performance (19th and 20th October) and parade featuring musicians, storytellers, dancers, choirs and more, along the streets of Valletta (27th October); and ŻiguŻajg, a lively arts and culture festival for children (16th-25th November).

Casa Rocca Piccola, Valletta

2. Learn about Malta’s history Malta has an extraordinary history spanning thousands of years, and touched by numerous civilisations, all of which have left their fingerprints on the island’s tangible

and intangible cultural heritage in different ways. Take a dip into the past with The Malta Experience’s audio-visual show, available in 17 different languages, which will give you the Cliffs’ Notes version of everything you need to know. ➜

Ġgantija Temples, Gozo - Photo: viewingmalta.com

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COVER STORY

Gozo

Then, explore some of the historical sites for yourself, from the prehistoric structures at Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra in Qrendi, or Ġgantija

in Gozo, to the Domus Romana in Rabat, the ancient city of Mdina and the silent treasures it holds, and the intriguing Inquisitor’s Palace in Birgu.

Marsaxlokk market - Photo: viewingmalta.com

3. Don’t write off the water Although it’s autumn, the weather is still warm, the water isn’t freezing cold yet, and the beach doesn’t have to be a no-go zone. In fact, it might just be the perfect time to try out some kind of waterside sports activity – a diving session, a spot of kitesurfing, or even a leisurely stroll on a sandy beach. If that doesn’t strike your fancy, you can visit the Mediterraneo Marine Park in Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq, where you can swim with dolphins, see sea lions, exotic birds, reptiles and more.

4. Cross the Channel to Gozo Malta’s little sister island is full of delights, and it’s less than half an hour away by ferry. You needn’t even take your car with you – you can rent a quad bike from Gozo Quad Hire and explore the island’s spectacular countryside and coast ➜ 19

COVER STORY in four-wheel style, guaranteeing that you’ll see it from a totally new perspective. It’s also opera season in Gozo – make sure you book your seats for Tosca (13th October, Aurora Theatre) or La Traviata (25th, 27th October, Astra Theatre).

5. Do a spot of shopping Sometimes, finding a good bargain or stumbling upon a pricey-butworthwhile-investment piece that will last you a long time, will make your whole day, and Malta has plenty of places where you can hunt down a unique find. From the luxury and high-street outlets in Sliema to Rabat’s quirky artisan shops, to the traditional openair market in Marsaxlokk or the ramshackle flea market in Birgu, shopping is one sport that doesn’t need good weather to be enjoyed.

Vineyards beneath Mdina - Photo: Delicata

6. Explore a winery Malta may not be as famous for its wines as nearby Italy or France, but it has a thriving local wine industry that’s certainly worth looking into. And what better way could Sicily - Photo: Luiz Centenaro

there be to spend an autumn day than one spent sampling the local offering? Among the species of grapes grown locally, you’ll find Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Moscato, as well as the indigenous varieties, Ġellewża and Girgentina.

The main wineries organise guided tours and tastings, and include the opportunity to buy a variety of vintages.

7. Head to Sicily You can also easily dedicate a day or two to neighbouring Sicily in your autumn itinerary.

The island offers incredibly picturesque landscapes, charming hill-top towns, and of course, delicious food. And there’s no need to wrack your brains trying to think of how you’re going to fit everything in – ferry company Virtu Ferries has been providing trips to Sicily from Malta for decades. You can simply book an excursion with them, lean back, and rest assured that you’re in safe hands. ➜ 20

COVER STORY of food. In the village of Qormi, Lejl f ’Casal Fornaro and Bread Festival (20th October) celebrates the town’s traditional bakeries and its long-standing association with the Maltese bread, while Ħamrun’s Chocolate Festival (28th October) will surely satisfy even the most ardent of chocoholics.

Rolex Middle Sea Race - Photo: Daniel Forster - viewingmalta.com

8. Enjoy the Rolex Middle Sea Race 20th October 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of the Rolex Middle Sea Race, established in 1968.

This gruelling sailing race starts in Grand Harbour, with sailors then travelling up north towards Sicily, the Aeolian Islands, the Egadi Islands and Lampedusa, before heading towards the south Comino Channel, and ending at Marsamxett Harbour. There is a whole host of events going on at the same time, including soirees, receptions, dinners, and trade

shows. You can even hire your own boat and sail out of the harbour to watch the event at close quarters.

9. Indulge in a food festival Maltese people love to eat, and a trend that has become more widespread in recent years is the organisation of small local festivals dedicated to a particular item

10. Celebrate Halloween Halloween used to go by more or less unnoticed in Malta up until a few years ago, but when we realised it was really just another excuse for a party, it spread like wildfire.

From ghost tours around Malta’s ancient towns and fortifications, to light-hearted parties happening across the island, there’s something for everyone to try, whether they lean towards spooky or silly. It’s also a great time to try out some of Malta’s beloved pumpkin dishes, including torta tal-qargħa aħmar (savoury pumpkin pie).

Photo: viewingmalta.com

Pumpkin pie - Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com

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CULTURE

10 picturesque streets to get lost in around

Malta & Gozo

The Maltese islands offer no shortage of picturesque vistas – from fantastic coastal outcrops to beautiful beaches, rolling hills and valleys, not to mention awe-inspiring historical remains and structures. Yet while Malta and Gozo’s natural environment begs to be explored (and photographed), so too do some of its urban spaces, making for wonderful opportunities for a wander around the island’s pretty towns and villages. Sarah Micallef picks 10 of her favourite streets to get lost in.

Villegaignon Street, Mdina - Photo: Fabrizio Novali - viewingmalta.com

1. Villegaignon Street, Mdina The historic Silent City and Malta’s old capital of Mdina is made for exploring on foot (literally, it’s only accessible to a very limited number of cars), and Villegaignon Street, cutting right across the fortified city leading on to St Paul’s Square and Cathedral, is among the most majestic. Lined with stately homes belonging to the island’s aristocratic families, it’s a joy to traverse. Still, while you’re there, it would be a shame not to wander down some of the smaller, less frequented streets and alleyways.

A personal favourite of mine is St Sophia Street – its arched entryway makes for the perfect photo op.

2. Hilda Tabone Street, Birgu Another of Malta’s great architectural gems, Birgu (also known as Vittoriosa), is arguably the best preserved of the Three Cities, comprising also Senglea (aka Isla) and Cospicua (aka Bormla), and its streets are an absolute joy to explore. On the arrival of the Knights of St John to Malta in 1530, the city served as their base before they took

up residence in the newly built Valletta (from 1566 onwards), and evidence of their presence remains everywhere you look. The cobbled Hilda Tabone Street, leading off the main square, houses the Auberges of Provence, Auvergne, France and Aragon, and is as charming as it is steeped in history.

3. Old Mint Street & St Ursula Street, Valletta When it comes to the capital – I simply couldn’t choose between my two favourites. A UNESCO World Heritage Site with more places of interest than you can ➜ 25

CULTURE shake a stick at, Valletta is also this year’s European Capital of Culture, and boasts a wealth of handsome architecture positioned along its grid-like streets. I’ll never get tired of the view of the towering St Paul's

Pro-Cathedral dome from Old Mint Street, and looking down at the sea or up at the city from St Ursula’s steps, depending on which way you’re going, flanked by colourful balconies and quirky old shop signs. ➜

St Ursula Street, Valletta - Photo: Malcolm Debono - viewingmalta.com

Hilda Tabone Street, Birgu - Photo: Luke Scicluna - viewingmalta.com

CULTURE 4. St augustine street, Rabat Once the suburb of the historic Mdina, Rabat is another fantastic, though often overlooked, spot of historical and cultural importance on the islands, and the streetscapes certainly reflect that. Apart from its must-visit places of interest like the famous Catacombs of St Paul and St Agatha, there’s something to be said about exploring this place on foot, discovering new buildings and curiosities as you go. One of my favourite streets here is the residential St Augustine Street (Triq Santu Wistin), which is flanked by some of Malta’s oldest properties.

5. St Anthony Street, Attard The central town of Attard is among the island’s most sought-after places to live, and with streets lined with attractive houses, as well as San Anton Palace and Gardens (now the official residence of the President of Malta), it’s not difficult to see why. Still, gorgeous gardens aside, St Anthony Street, Attard - Photo: Frank Vincentz - Wikimedia Commons

St Augustine Street, Rabat - Photo: Giorgio Galeotti - Wikimedia Commons

there’s one street that I simply never tire of strolling down, and that is St Anthony Street. On one side, the walls of the beautifully Baroque Villa Bologna offer a tiny glimpse into the opulent stately home that lies beyond, and on the other, Villa Roseville, one of the few Art Nouveau buildings on the island and now a nursing home for the elderly, leads on to a row of grand homes that are the stuff of dreams.

6. Alleys of the Three Villages The aforementioned Attard forms part of an area of Malta known as the Three Villages, along with the neighbouring Lija and Balzan.

Equally sought-after among locals, the largely residential villages are well known for their houses of character, often boasting pictureperfect façades and gardens. And while they’re not known for any

Main Street, B'Kara - Photo: Continentaleurope - Wikimedia Commons

particular attractions, apart from the wedding-cake-like Belvedere Tower and Villa Francia, Lija and Balzan are a delight to stroll around, with winding streets that snake between the historic properties that are begging to be explored.

7. MAIN STREET, Birkirkara The largest and most populous town in Malta is sometimes not considered to be quite as pretty as some of the smaller, more charming towns and villages on the island.

But, if you head to the old centre, close to where the Birkirkara police station is, you’ll be rewarded with Main Street (Triq il-Kbira) – a cobbled street that will make you stop and reassess. Look out for the traditional balconies, saintly niches and ancient façades for a taste of what Birkirkara was like before it grew to the town we know (and still love) today. ➜

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CULTURE

“The shore front is fantastic for a stroll as you take in the colourful luzzi (boats), bustling market and quirky buildings that line it.”

Marsaxlokk - Photo: Berthold Werner - Wikimedia Commons

Mellieħa Sanctuary - Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com

Charity Street, Rabat, Gozo

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8. Marsaxlokk promenade Over on the south of the island, the picturesque fishing village of Marsaxlokk has got its own character and heaps of charm. From the spacious square surrounding the main church to the humble homes that line its streets and house generations of fishing families, the place has got an undeniable appeal, but the pièce de resistance has got to be the promenade.

While not quite a street, the walkway extending the length of the shore front is fantastic for a stroll as you take in the colourful luzzi (boats), bustling market and quirky buildings that line it.

9. Mellieħa Sanctuary All the way over to the other side of the island (ok, so it’s not that far), the northern town of Mellieħa is its own kind of picturesque, and the best vantage point from which to take in the rolling valleys that flank the centre is the walkways overlooking and surrounding the Mellieħa Sanctuary, leading on to the delightful square.

Lined with cafés, dinky little shops and some fine eateries, it’s a treasure to investigate on foot and will certainly make you bring your camera out.

10. Charity Street, Rabat, Gozo And finally, on to the sister isle.

While there are admittedly many delightful towns and villages boasting charming streets and walkways to discover in Gozo, it would be impossible to narrow them down, so for the purposes of this list, I’m going for a treasured spot in the capital, Rabat (also known as Victoria). Among the main attractions here are the ancient (and incredible) Citadel, as well as the market square in the centre of the city, known among locals as it-Tokk. If you delve a little deeper and head down into the narrow streets behind the market in the direction of St George’s Basilica however, you’ll come faceto-face with the essence of village life, which is where you’ll find the charming Charity Street.

CULTURE

DISCOVER VALLETTA 2018

Everyone is invited to be part of Valletta 2018, the European Capital of Culture, packed with over 400 events and activities that friends and family can enjoy together. What’s more, many of the events are free to attend or accessible to the public at very affordable prices!

Calendar Highlights Until 4 Nov Nisġa – Storja Kontemporanja A modern art exhibition that seeks to feature ‘dialogues’ between local artists from different generations.

5 October-4 November Tactile Bringing together the works of Maltese, Japanese and other international sculptors within a space devoid of any light, Tactile will leave its audiences no other way of understanding the artworks than through the sense of touch. This visually impenetrable setting will invite the general public to interact with the exhibits through what will remain a purely tactile experience.

10-13 October Design4DCity Design4DCity addresses the well-being of residents through co-creative approaches towards public space.

19, 20, 27 October Orfeo & Majnun Orfeo & Majnun is an interdisciplinary, participatory music-theatre project that connects two myths from different cultures, combining the Greek myth of Orfeo and Eurydice and the Middle Eastern legend of Leyla and Majnun. It promises to be an enchanting production that uses multiple textures, including shadow puppet theatre, to express a new take on these well-known tales.

Music-theatre performances will be held on 19th and 20th October at the Mediterranean Conference Centre in Valletta, while Sfilata fil-Kapitali, an open-air parade with band club members, musicians, storytellers, dancers, choirs and more, will be held on 27th September along the streets of Valletta.

13 October-9 December Constellation Malta A series of site-specific interventions, performances and exhibitions

that shed new light on megalithic sites like Ħaġar Qim, the fortified cities of Mdina and the Cittadella in Gozo, and other historical and popular venues on the islands.

24-26 October Valletta 2018 Annual Conference: Sharing the Legacy The fifth in the Valletta 2018 Foundation’s series of annual conferences, this conference encourages broad reflection on the central issues that define urban life by channelling its discussions through the basic question of ‘What makes a city better?’

10-11 November Bodies in Urban Spaces This Willi Dorner project, is all about making young people aware of the way we interact with public space.

Visit https://valletta2018. org/cultural-programme for further details.

Nisġa – an exhibition dealing with the identity of the Maltese artist. Photos: Francesca Vella

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HERITAGE

Discover Malta Located in Malta’s capital city, Valletta, within what was once the Sacra Infermeria of the Knights of Malta, is The Malta Experience. This audio-visual spectacular is one of the largest attractions in Europe in terms of duration, system and language commentaries.

The 45-minute presentation can be listened to in one of 17 languages. In a purposely-built auditorium with a panoramic screen, sensational vision and a gripping commentary, The Malta Experience brings 7,000 years of history back to life. Shows are every hour on the hour, and after each show, one can also enjoy a tour of the Sacra Infermeria.

Today, this beautiful building is known as the Mediterranean Conference Centre, but you can still step back in time and visualise its revolutionary past on a guided tour, and visit the longest hospital ward in Europe, measuring 155 metres in length and holding 247 beds.

Exploring the

Phoenician Shipwreck off Xlendi

Heritage Malta’s Gozo area Office in Rabat, Gozo is hosting a new exhibition, Exploring the Phoenician Shipwreck off Xlendi.

For more than 10 years, the University of Malta in

The Malta Experience, St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street, Valletta. www.themaltaexperience.com

collaboration with a number of partners used state-ofthe-art technologies to study and explore one of the most exciting underwater archaeological discoveries in the Central Mediterranean. Discovered off Xlendi in 2007, at a depth of 110 metres, the intriguing Phoenician galley has attracted worldwide attention as it dates to the first part of the 7th century BC, making it the oldest wreck ever found so far in this region.

Visitors can also explore the exhibited objects recovered from 110 metres below sea level and use the audio-visual aids to transport themselves into an underwater world of historical discovery.

The exhibition is taking place in collaboration with the University of Malta, and with the support of the Ministry for Gozo, Malta Tourism Authority, Malta International Airport and the Honor Frost Foundation.

The exhibition is being held at Heritage Malta’s Gozo Area Office, Exhibition Hall, St Martin’s Quarter Street, Cittadella.

Open Mon-Fri 8am-4pm. Admission free of charge.

Visit www.heritagemalta.org for more information.

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Chadwick Lakes - Photo: viewingmalta.com

THINGS TO DO

Out in the

country

There’s nothing quite like a hearty autumn walk or a weekend out camping to make you appreciate and reconnect with nature. Marie-Claire Grima looks at some choice picks from Malta’s countryside and lists how to make the most of it.

With the blazing sun starting to cool down, and a gentle breeze just picking up, it’s the best time of year to explore Malta’s countryside. Whether you’re a hiker, a camper, an active history buff or simply someone who enjoys a good picnic, there’s something out there for everyone.

Put some comfortable shoes on, pack a water bottle and let’s go!

A walk to remember While Malta’s countryside always seems to be in danger of disappearing, you can still lose yourself for several hours, trekking through the beauty that remains.

Between Rabat and Mtarfa lie Malta’s Chadwick Lakes, which take their name from Osbert Chadwick, the British engineer who built the water management dam in this area in 1890. At Chadwick Lakes, water

Marsaxlokk Harbour - Photo: Peter Vanicsek - viewingmalta.com

constantly flows eastwards towards Mosta, through a series of man-made structures. These structures form a delicate habitat, which is home to various kinds of plants and animals.

For a vigorous countryside walk, many choose to leave from Rabat and end in Mosta, with Chadwick Lakes being the central part of the walk.

The curved walking path is around eight kilometres in length and the area’s flora and fauna are a beautiful sight to behold when in full flower.

A rural walk in the southern part of Malta will take you from Marsascala, a fishing town which has become a popular touristic centre, to Marsaxlokk, another fishing village which has retained far more of its traditional character. ➜ 37

THINGS TO DO

Ta' Ġordan Lighthouse Photo: Jeffrey Cassar - viewingmalta.com

On the way from one town to the other, you’ll pass salt pans, farms, rock formations, fortifications, troglodyte dwellings still partially in use, chapels, stunning long-distance views from the strategically-vital cliffs of Delimara point and one of the island’s best (and almost entirely patronised by locals) swimming-places.

Gozo is lovely to walk around all over, but the route from San Lawrenz to Marsalforn is quite special. Start this route by following the road on the left side of the church of St Lawrence, heading northeast towards the nearby village of Għarb. The sights you’ll see on the way include the chapels of il-Madonna taż-Żejt and of San

Fomm ir-Riħ Bay - Photo: viewingmalta.com

Dimitri, both the subject of many a local legend; the impressive Ta’ Ġordan Lighthouse perched on a hill; the scenic valley known as Wied il-Mielaħ, and the gorgeously dramatic Wied il-Għasri gorge; and an impressive stretch of ancient salt pans leading up to Xwejni Bay. The route will lead you to the seaside town of Marsalforn, which has a beautiful bay, and several cafés and restaurants where you can re-fuel.

Happy campers Camping is a popular pastime with Malta’s outdoorsy types, just before the rainy season sets in.

Always make sure to get a permit from the relevant local council before digging in your poles.

Wied il-Għasri - Photo: Jürgen Scicluna - viewingmalta.com

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L-Aħrax peninsula in Mellieħa, located in the very far north side of Malta, provides an unspoiled and quiet landscape that is perfect for camping. One can easily see why it’s one of the most popular camping sites in Malta – it has a lot of shaded woodland, and the views are absolutely gorgeous. Meanwhile, nearby Mġiebaħ is hardly the most accessible of places but that makes it an even better site for the intrepid camper. Located at the very bottom of Selmun, which is on the way to Mellieħa, you’ll have the lovely pebble beach all to yourself if you’re up for a refreshing morning dip, and be able to enjoy a beautiful sunrise – definitely worth the effort.

If you want to get off the island completely, Comino is the perfect place to get away from it all, especially once the summer rush subsides. Take a short, 20-minute ferry from Marfa and you’ll be able to explore the Blue Lagoon and the Crystal Lagoon, as well as historic sites such as the Comino Tower, the old barracks and the battery. The Santa Marija camping site is served with showers and toilets, and if you don’t feel like a half-hour walk, the United Comino ferry service will take you directly to the campsite. ➜

THINGS TO DO Picnic season Check the weather forecast, pack a big basket full of your favourite food and drink, and savour nature’s flavours.

The Buskett Gardens are among the most popular picnic spots in the Maltese islands. The Knights of Malta planted this expansive range of woodland hundreds of years ago as a hunting reserve, and it provides the perfect location to sit down and enjoy a picnic on a brisk autumn day.

The site is very accessible so you’ll see lots of families around here, especially on the weekends.

Għajn Tuffieħa may be better known for its splendid golden beach, but in the cooler months it’s also a much-loved spot for a Sunday picnic. You can either make your way down to the sandy beach, or else trek up the footpath that’s located just before the main beach parking area. After about 10 minutes walking and admiring the spectacular view, you’ll come across a charming green stretch,

Comino

Għajn Tuffieħa Bay - Photo: William Attard McCarthy - viewingmalta.com

Buskett Gardens - Photo: viewingmalta.com

where you can sit down and fuel yourself to your heart’s content.

For those who want to really put some effort into their picnic location, Fomm Ir-Riħ bay, one of the most remote beaches in Malta, is the spot for you. The only way down is through a rough, steep and sometimes slippery 20-minutewalk pathway – but what you’ll find at the bottom is well worth it. It offers fantastic views of the sea, cliffs and valleys, and plenty of peace and tranquillity – perfect for a romantic picnic. ➜ 41

THINGS TO DO

Top of the World, Għargħur

The long view Bring your binoculars – from sheer cliffs to rolling fields, fertile valleys to rural villages, you’ll find it all here at these much-loved beauty spots.

The Top of the World spot in Għargħur is one of the highest points in Malta, and most renowned for the extensive view it provides.

Standing there, you’ll get a bird's eye view of Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq along the Magħtab plain to St Paul’s Bay and the north-eastern coast below, and the sea beyond for miles and

Salt pans leading to Xwejni Bay - Photo: Maurizio Modena - viewingmalta.com

miles. Since there’s no bus stop in the immediate area, you either have to walk from Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq or Għargħur, or reach it by car.

Just outside the village of Dingli in the north lie the Dingli Cliffs, standing tall at 253m above sea-level.

In the olden days, they were regarded as natural forts, since no attacker could possibly approach the island from the west, due to their staggering height. The cliffs look particularly majestic from the sea, but from the top, you’ll get the breath-taking

Dingli Cliffs - Photo: viewingmalta.com

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views of the open sea, and Filfla, the small uninhabited island just across the water. The cliffs stretch all the way to the Munqar area above Blue Grotto, close to Wied iż-Żurrieq.

While an aerial view will always be stunning, lower points can offer equally wonderful vistas. The picturesque Wied Qirda between Żebbug and Siġġiewi is one of them. The valley sides are populated with native trees, and the undergrowth also includes a number of rare, protected species, such as the wild tulip, which is only found in this locality in the Maltese islands.

Walk through history Like the rest of Malta, the island’s countryside is riddled with historical sites and locations, just waiting to be discovered afresh.

The Xemxija Heritage Trail has everything a history buff could wish for in a trek. Its smorgasbord of historic sites includes a Roman road, a medieval pilgrims’ route, ancient cliff dwellings and apiaries, Punic tombs, the remains of a Roman bath house, some of Malta’s famous prehistoric cart ruts and even a World War II pillbox disguised as a farm building. ➜

THINGS TO DO The terrain is in some places quite challenging, but the discoveries you’ll make along the way are absolutely worthwhile – and since it’s an official route, you can also find a helpful leaflet about it, as well as signs along the way.

The Victoria Lines, which were built by the British and finished in the year of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897, divide Malta into two and give ramblers a scenic view, as well as a taste of history with every step. The route begins in Madliena Heights near the Madliena Fort, and ends at Kunċizzjoni near Fomm ir-Riħ Bay. When hiking along you can also view most of the rest of Malta, both north and south, as well as the cliffs of Gozo on a clear day.

It’s quite an easy route to follow – although there are just a few

Victoria Lines

parts where modern buildings have broken up the route, it’s easy enough to get back on track.

Gozo’s Ramla Walk starts from Marsalforn Bay, passes through the village of Xagħra, and ends in Ramla Bay. Taking the walker through a typical Gozitan valley behind Marsalforn, Xagħra has a particularly rich historical heritage.

During your walk, you can visit

the Ta’ Kola Windmill, one of the few surviving windmills on the Maltese islands dating back to the time of the Knights of St John, and the Ġgantija Temples, an extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage site. Ramla Bay itself is also a treasure, featuring priceless geological, historical and archaeological elements you won’t find anywhere else.

TAKE NOTE

Experience the

best of Valletta

Malta’s capital city is a true historic gem, and with the Valletta Card, you can now travel to and from Valletta with ease whilst also exploring its unique cultural sites.

With the Valletta Card, you can travel by bus to Valletta from anywhere in Malta and you can travel back by bus to any location in Malta. The card also entitles you to two trips on the ferry service to Valletta from Sliema and from Cospicua, and back. Finally, you can get around Valletta by bus on Route 133 – The Valletta Circular.

The card also includes free access to the Upper Barrakka lift when travelling by ferry from Cospicua.

With the Valletta Card, you can visit any three of the following sites: The Palace State Rooms, The Palace Armoury, The National Museum of Archaeology and Malta 5D. Whether you feel like visiting the Presidential

Palace situated at the heart of Malta’s world heritage capital city of Valletta, marvel at one of the world’s largest collections of arms and armour, view a spectacular range of artefacts dating back to Malta’s Neolithic period and

up to the Phoenician Period, or discover 7,000 years of history through an audio-visual experience is completely up to you! www.publictransport.com. mt/en/valletta-card

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Lifestyle

12 world-famous celebrities with a connection to Malta They may not all be Maltese through and through, but these famous people have definite and lasting connections with the little island of Malta. Melanie Drury explores how.

1. Meghan, Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle only recently became Duchess of Sussex, after marrying Prince Harry. She is the first American-born member to enter the British royal family. A former film and television actress, Meghan, while on a visit to Malta in 2015 (prior to meeting Harry), claimed “... coming to Malta has been really important to me because my great-greatgrandmother lived here, so we’ve been trying to trace the ancestry.”

2. Miriam Gauci, Soprano One of the first Maltese-born to make it big internationally, Miriam Gauci moved to Milan to pursue a career as an operatic soprano. She made

Miriam Gauci - Photo: www.reunion.org.mt

Joseph Calleja - Photo: Jan Zammit

her debut as a professional soprano in Bologna in 1984 and in the US in 1987. By 1992, she was in high demand, singing in Vienna, Munich, Hamburg and Santa Fe, alongside the likes of Plácido Domingo.

3. Joseph Calleja, Tenor Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja needs no introduction. Born in Attard in 1978, he began singing at the age

of 16. In 1998, he won the Caruso Competition in Milan and went on to pursue a successful career as a world-class tenor. He performs annually in Malta alongside other acclaimed artists and is known for his philanthropic work. Appointed Malta’s cultural ambassador in 2012, he is truly Malta’s pride and joy.

4. Joseph Calleia, Actor/Singer Yet another Joseph Calleia was in the limelight much earlier. Also known as Joseph Spurin, he was one of Hollywood’s most recognised villains from the classic period. He was the Leonardo di Caprio from the 30s to the early 60s, working alongside Rita Hayworth, Ingrid Birgman, Lucille Balls and Orson Welles. He was born in Mdina in 1897 and died in Sliema in 1975, aged 78. ➜ Meghan Markle - Photo: Northern Ireland Office - Wikimedia Commons

Joseph Calleia

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Lifestyle

Edward De Bono

5. Kerry Ingram, Actress A more contemporary rising star is Kerry Ingram, Princess Shireen Baratheon in Game of Thrones. Kerry won an Olivier Award, the highest honour in British theatre, for her role in the hit musical, Matilda. The 19-yearold British actress’s grandfather is Maltese, and she has attended the Mqabba village feast every single year since she was born!

Edwige Fenech

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Kerry Ingram - Photo: Gage Skidmore - Wikimedia Commons

6. Edwige Fenech, Actress Edwige Fenech was born to a Maltese father and Sicilian mother in French Algeria (now Algeria). She became an actress and film producer, working alongside Al Pacino and starring in a Quentin Tarantino film.

She is hugely talented, yet is more remembered locally for her sexy and nude appearances.

7. Edward De Bono, Author/Psychologist/ Philosopher Edward De Bono is lauded as one of the most creative minds of the 21st century. The author, physician and psychologist became

widely known for his extraordinary work in what is coined ‘lateral thinking’ – an indirect and creative approach to solving problems. Born in St Julian’s in 1933, De Bono has held faculty appointments at the universities of Oxford, Cambridge, London and Harvard, published 57 books in 34 languages and made several other contributions.

8. Paul Tisdale, Football Manager Paul Tisdale is an English professional football manager and former professional football player. He is currently the manager of League Two club Milton Keynes Dons. He was born in 1973 in Valletta. ➜

Lifestyle about the Canadian superstar’s Maltese roots as he officially revealed them during a concert in Pembroke, Malta, in 2007. His maternal grandmother was Maltese – she was from Floriana but lived in Valletta. His mother was, therefore, Maltese-Canadian, and Adams himself was born in Canada in 1959.

Andy Partridge

9. Andy Partridge, Musician Legendary British Rockstar Andrew John Partridge was best known as the primary songwriter and vocalist of punk rock band XTC from 1972 until 2006. The English singer-songwriter, guitarist and record producer from Swindon was born in Mtarfa, Malta, in 1953.

10. Britney Spears, Singer From the biography Through the Storm by Lynne Spears, mother of Jamie Lynn, Bryan and Britney Spears, we learned: “but on my mama’s side, the family tree is a

Bryan Adams - Photo: Marco Maas-Flickr

little more colourful and glamorous.

Her father, my grandfather, was Anthony Portelli, who came from the island of Malta. Anthony Portelli came to England in the 1920s, married a British girl and changed his name to Portell.

The Portells had two daughters, Joan, my aunt, and Lillian, my mother.”

There you go, Britney’s maternal great-grandfather was Maltese!

11. Bryan Adams, Musician Rock singer-songwriter, record producer and guitarist since 1975, Bryan Guy Adams is also a philanthropist. Most Maltese know

12. Tash Sultana, Musician Talented musician Tash Sultana was born in Australia with half Maltese ancestry. Sultana astounds audiences with her talent and the way she puts music together. She can play over 15 instruments, including the guitar, bass, trumpet, flute, piano, drums, pan flute, mandolin, synthesiser, percussion and saxophone, as well as vocals. Her genres include psychedelic rock, alternative rock, reggae rock and lo-fi. Born in 1995, she’s been playing music since the age of three and busking on the streets of Melbourne since age 17.

Adapted by Martina Said from an article that featured in Guide Me Malta magazine’s sister product, www.guidememalta.com

Tash Sultana - Photo: Tore Sætre - Wikimedia Commons

Britney Spears - Photo: Glenn Francis - Wikimedia Commons

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PROPERTY

International Real Estate Agent Cluttons announces its expansion to Malta

International real estate agent, Cluttons, has announced that it will be expanding its network to Malta, to offer its clients access to the booming Maltese property market. Cluttons has a head office in the UK and provides a range of property services, including residential sales and leasing, commercial agency, asset management, valuation, corporate services, telecoms and consultancy.

In Malta, Cluttons has chosen Dhalia Real Estate Services as their local partner. Dhalia has been chosen for its expertise in the local market and decades of experience. As an associated partner, Dhalia will offer Cluttons’ clients direct local knowledge of the Maltese property market, whether they are buying for holiday, retirement, investment or residency purposes.

Cluttons has a network of offices in London and overseas including Barbados, Marbella, Barcelona, Lisbon and the French Alps. Demand for property in Malta is increasing from clients in these locations and especially from the UK. “We constantly strive to offer our clients the latest real estate investment opportunities,” said Joanna Leverett, head of international residential at Cluttons. “Malta is currently one of the fastest growing property markets in the world and we look forward to offering our clients access to this important market and all the opportunities it has to offer in association with our partners at Dhalia.”

For more information, visit www.dhalia.com

EATING & DRINKING

Photo: Lord Chambray Brewery

Hopping mad for

craft beer

Malta’s pint-swigging culture is experiencing a revolution. Inventive young brewers are experimenting with new, sometimes radical, flavours, discovering unique blends and creating hand-crafted beer for sophisticated palates. Rebecca Anastasi speaks to some of the makers to discover what makes these swills so swell.

Suds fanatics rejoice! Malta’s brewing traditions are shifting, with small craft breweries challenging the stranglehold of the bigger industrials, resulting in delicious drafts, varied bevvies, and unique sips – all hand-crafted – hitting shelves, bars and eateries around the island. Hopheads have long clocked the changes, but this upsurge of excitement, following the introduction of these new flavours, is now hitting the mainstream.

“Malta is finally ready to enjoy craft beer,” Valentina Rossetto from Lord Chambray says. The craft brewery was the first to hit the rock, officially launching in July 2014 with three beers in its portfolio, the brainchild of Italian national Samuele D’Imperio. His passion in the art of the brew had led to him leaving Australia, where he had lived for one year, only to land in Gozo, an island for which he

always had a soft spot, and where he had holidayed with his family when he was a child. It was there that he set up his outfit and, today, in only four years, Lord Chambray has won multiple international awards (12 by the last count!) for its innovative methods. It has grown to include six brews, whose names – such as San Blas, Golden Bay, Fungus Rock, Blue Lagoon – recall the zest of Maltese sites. The brand also produces two seasonal beers as well as limited edition suds.

“Before opening Lord Chambray Brewery we already knew what we were going to face: a huge challenge! Back in 2014, no other craft beer brands were available in Malta and most locals were totally confused by the idea. So the market reaction was unexpected. We never thought we’d get such great feedback!” In only four years, Lord Chambray’s

yearly production has grown 40 per cent every year in order to meet demand, according to Valentina, and this shows no sign of abating.

She describes the process at the brewery, emphasising that their artisanal beer is made using fresh high-quality raw materials and avoiding the processes of microfiltration and pasteurisation, resulting in a beer which is still alive and nutritious, rich in mineral salt, amino acids and vitamins.

“Craft beer is changing the current local beer scene,” she asserts. “Every year, Malta hosts millions of tourists from cold countries, such as the UK, the Czech Republic, Austria, Germany, and Ireland, where the consumption of craft beer is the highest in the world. And, now, the Maltese are looking for the same quality and for something which is a bit different to what they’ve been used to.” ➜ 57

EATING & DRINKING She refers to the recent first edition of the Malta Craft Beer Festival, which took place in August, and which attracted more than 3,000 people, saying that “the festival was a blast and we can officially state that we can see a successful future for craft beer in Malta.”

Alessandro Nardi, who, together with his wife, is the founder and director of Phoenix Brewers Ltd, the producers of The Raw Beer, echoes these sentiments, noting the “explosion of products and merchandise” which have flooded the market over the past few years.

Indeed, the microbrewery itself delivers four main varieties, each focused on a different tone and texture: Tar Robust Porter, which includes added coffee beans; Rubin Double Ale, a classic Belgian full-flavoured beer; the deep Photo: The Huskie Craft Beer Company

Photo: The Huskie Craft Beer Company

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gold Rust Rabat Ale, containing cinnamon, citrus and grapefruit accents; and the light Blonde Flora Ale, which has been fermented with wild Maltese honey.

He sees the wide range of products available as positive, a sign of diversification which gives consumers – of every class and gender – more choice than they’ve ever had before and one which underlines the distinction between a product made using artisanal techniques and one which is mass-produced. “You cannot compare an artisanal beer to one made through industrial processes.

They are two completely different things,” he asserts. He underlines the necessity of good water, malt

and hops which come together in a process radically different to the norm, free of the shackles of pasteurisation and filtration, thus retaining the rawness gifted by the materials. “Experimenting with new recipes and methods makes this all quite complicated but very exciting.

Sometimes, months pass between production and tasting, so every time we dream up a new technique we spend whole days watching it all ferment, finally bottling it up with a mix of excitement and curiosity. Those first few sips – once the brew has been bottled – can be very emotional!” he smiles.

This personal touch is also evident in the passion and care delivered by Dmitriy Tolok, who opened ➜

EATING & DRINKING use “only the best ingredients in the world: Weyermann malt from Germany, Belgian yeast, Czech, English and German hops, as well as natural spices. We have also never added any chemical or sugar to our beer,” Dmitriy asserts.

These hand-crafted brews have been created with the community in mind. “We do not have customers: everyone visiting our place is our guest. ➜ Photo: Lord Chambray Brewery

The Brew, a restaurant and microbrewery in the heart of Sliema, with his family in 2016. “I can compare craft brewing with art,” Dmitriy says. “Of course, we need to retain certain styles, but we are still very flexible in what we do, and I love to create new recipes.” He describes the process by which he formulates a new flavour. “I start by reading the history of the style of beer I want to recreate or emulate, trying to find interviews with people who have worked in that tradition, seeking any suggestions of how to mix and how to adapt the recipe to Malta’s climate and our guests.”

The Brew opened with just one beer in its portfolio, but it now offers four brews all year round, including the rich draft known as the Dark, the lighter Golden Ale and the Honey Mead, as well as the fortified Maltese Ale. They also have seasonal sips, and, to date, they have fermented 14 new types of pints including “honey beer, cherry beer, made in the Belgian tradition, and Mandarina IPA with natural citrus peels.” They

Photo: Lord Chambray Brewery

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EATING & DRINKING In fact, our next step is to allow them to vote for the next beer they think we should brew. We’re going to let people decide what they want to drink!” He sees a bright future for the craft here in Malta, saying that he believes the island will also push innovation.

“Maltese craft brew has just been born and we are already competitive internationally.

I believe that within the next 10 years we will actually have brewed beer from Maltese malt and Maltese hops. Malta will be famous not only because of its high-quality brews, but also because of its high-quality ingredients which have been grown on Maltese land,” he states.

But, the creation of an iconic artisanal beer is more than the sum of its parts, and the skill-set required – as indicated by all the creatives in the field – descends from the marriage of science and art. “The brewing of beer is a scientific process, and the set-up and running of a brewery requires a lot of engineering skills,” Jean

Photos: Lord Chambray Brewery

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Mikhail Bickle, one of the two founders of The Huskie Craft Beer Company, says. The engineer, together with his friend, Miguel Camilleri, started out making craft beer as a hobby, but, after working together in the UK for a year, and experiencing the burgeoning of the scene there, “the seed was planted”.

They began by experimenting with various techniques – Jean, indeed, describes brewing as “a very complex task,” taking much “time and experience until you can make something noteworthy” – and it wasn’t until they had perfected their first three beers that they considered looking at setting up a proper outfit, which has proven a boon in more ways than one. “Owning your own brewery gives you the liberty and control over the various parameters which ultimately affect your final product. Apart from that, we are also in command of the way we do our business. We both believe in being eco-friendly and have set up our brewery to be as green and efficient as possible,” he describes.

This can be seen in their products, such as the Alpha IPA, the Zeta Belgian Saison and the Beta Porter.

“Each beer has a story – from the creation of the recipe to the final product – and we go into much detail before deciding on what style to brew next,” Jean describes. It’s all about the experience, according to the brewer, about offering people “a taste they won’t forget.” He notes that the local craft drinking population has definitely grown recently, with more and more beer fans picking up a pint, “discovering new flavours, textures and aromas.” Variety is, indeed, the cornerstone of the popularity of these brews, he says.

“Nowadays, people appreciate what it is they are consuming; they care about where the product has come from, how it’s been made, and who it is that’s making it. And, craft beer ultimately offers a more personal feel to the beer you’re drinking.”

Indeed, for these micro-brewers, beer is where the heart is. Stretta Craft Beer’s John Borg Barthet also dons this mantle with pride. ➜

EATING & DRINKING

Photo: Stretta Craft Beer

He launched in 2016 “after years of home brewing purely for the love of interesting beer styles and experimenting with flavours and recipes,” he says, outlining the way the beer grew out of “a simple home brewing lab,” which he describes as “the tiniest of set-ups in a basement,” and has “grown from strength to strength as the years have rolled by,” hitting the number one spot on the site Rate Beer, in under two years.

“Craft beer is an expression of flavour as well as of brand personality. It’s a unique flavour experience created by a brewer and enjoyed by thousands of beer lovers throughout the island. It’s almost a personal experience,” he declares. Indeed, the name of his brew derives from a personal

link to Valletta’s Strait Street – “my father was born there and I grew up hearing all the stories of its prolific nightlife and beer culture” – and, today, the microbrewery “uses a wide variety of hops, grains, yeast strains and recipe methods from around the world, often creating recipes that have never been put together in that combination before.”

This innovation has brought younger generations to the bar, as tastes become more sophisticated and consumers become more discerning in terms of the provenance and quality of the products they consume. “Stretta has always strived to support progressive and environmental causes whenever the opportunity arose and will continue to do so.

And, I believe, the future looks very bright for both Stretta and craft beer in general. The industry has seen major growth in interest and I anticipate it will continue to do so in the years to come.”

Photo: Stretta Craft Beer

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EATING & DRINKING

La Sorpresa La Sorpresa is a family-run restaurant and pizzeria where customers are welcomed like friends and family. Colin and Doreen pride themselves on making consistent, high-quality food and service a priority. La Sorpresa restaurant offers both a Mediterranean-based à la carte menu, as well as a variety of set menus designed to suit every guest’s preferences. Our à la carte menu includes pasta dishes, mouth-watering steaks and other carvery dishes, fresh local fish, homemade pizzas, traditional Maltese dishes and other special dishes which change frequently.

Our little guests have their own kids menu and gluten-free options are also available.

Open Monday to Saturday 6-11pm; Sunday 11.30am-3pm, 6-11pm.

La Sorpresa, Tourists Street, Buġibba.

Contact Nicholas Farrugia on T: 2157 7301; M: 7925 4324.

Luna – The Restaurant at Palazzo Parisio The Luna Restaurant combines a variety of culinary concepts set in one of Malta’s finest privately-owned stately homes. Every corner assures you luxury, grace, elegance and a taste of history by the mouthful, offering breakfast, snacks, lunch, traditional English afternoon tea or dinner. Choose from the sublime interiors or the beautifully shaded tables on the garden terrace basking beside fragrant orange blossom and flamboyant bougainvillea. Luna, in all its forms, offers relaxation and understated luxury in an incredible and refined ambience.

29, Victory Square, Naxxar. Book your table on T: 2141 2461 Ext 2; E: fb@palazzoparisio.com; www.palazzoparisio.com

Maltese Mama Maltese Mama serves authentic Maltese and Italian cuisines complemented by great service in a relaxing atmosphere. To start, patrons are offered a complimentary plate of traditional Maltese antipasti, served with fresh bread and galletti (water crackers).

Starters include home-made soups, octopus, scallops, clams, the speciality shellfish platter and pasta dishes. A variety of main courses is also available, with specialities including fish and traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit and braġjoli (beef olives).

Maltese Mama, 19/2, Paceville Avenue, St Julian’s.

T: 2737 7024; M: 7780 5312; E: eltonspiteri@hotmail.co.uk

Mitħna Restaurant Mitħna restaurant is housed within a historical windmill built in the 1700s.

The restaurant prides itself on using fresh seasonal produce. On request, it offers a variety of vegetarian dishes and is able to cater for any special dietary requirements. Part of its carefully curated menu includes revisited classic Maltese dishes like rabbit and date rolls (locally known as imqaret). Upon request, Mitħna offers a free pick-up and drop-off service in all Mellieħa areas.

Mitħna Restaurant, Triq il-Kbira, Mellieħa. T: 2152 0404; M: 7947 8896; E: info@mithna.com; www.mithna.com; FB: facebook.com/mithnarestaurant

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EATING & DRINKING

Palazzo Preca Restaurant Palazzo Preca Restaurant is repeatedly awarded highly as one of the best restaurants in Malta and Gozo. It is situated in one of the best-known historic streets in Valletta, within a beautiful 16th-century palazzo in Strait Street. An extensive and creative menu provides mouth-watering choices of food and fine local and foreign wines – and do not miss out on our delicious home-made desserts!

Professional, dedicated and attentive staff will help you to ensure that your visit is a completely enjoyable experience. Wednesday is our special night when the lights are turned off and the restaurant is entirely lit by candles, creating an intimate and romantic ambience. Open Tuesday to Saturday 12.30-3pm; 6.30-10.30pm. During winter, open for lunch on Sunday and closed for dinner. Bookings are recommended and are to be confirmed by phone. Palazzo Preca, 54, Strait Street, Valletta. T: 2122 6777; M: 9986 6640; www.palazzoprecarestaurant.com

Shakinah – Indian Cuisine Situated on the St Julian’s seafront in Balluta Bay, Shakinah presents Indian tastes, scents and flavours in an interesting selection of exquisitely prepared, Halal-Certified, colourful dishes. The fresh ingredients, oriental spices and interesting flavours are carefully handpicked by our native-born Indian chefs. Great emphasis has been placed on the décor, mood and general ambience to ensure a true Shakinah special experience. Allow yourself to be transported on a magic carpet ride to the exotic orient in the heart of St Julian’s.

Open Monday to Sunday 6-11pm.

Shakinah, 5, Ġorġ Borg Olivier Street, St Julian’s.

T: 2731 8000; M: 7731 8000; E: booking@shakinahmalta.com; www.shakinahmalta.com; FB: facebook.com/shakinahmalta

Ta’ Marija Celebrating more than five decades of excellence, Ta’ Marija restaurant offers the ideal venue for colleagues, friends and family to celebrate any occasion with sumptuous food in welcoming surroundings, complemented by our exceptional service and merrymaking. Enjoy our all-inclusive carvery buffets on Saturday evenings and Sunday lunches for just €27.50 per person, or indulge in a Maltese extravaganza every Wednesday and Friday evening with a spectacular traditional folk dancing show and our mandolin and guitar duo! You may also choose to dine al fresco, enjoying views of the Mosta Dome, whilst savouring one of our signature cocktails and exquisite degustation menus.

Ta’ Marija Restaurant, Constitution Street, Mosta.

T: 2143 4444; E: info@tamarija.com.mt; www.tamarija.com.mt

Terrone Terrone is a restaurant in the charming fishing village of Marsaxlokk that combines rustic charm with contemporary regional cuisine. Focusing on southern Italian and local Maltese cuisines, and hand-picking the best local and organic produce, we aim to recreate a healthy and enjoyable way of dining.

We are open every day for lunch and dinner, as well as breakfast on weekends (8-10.45am). The restaurant is situated on the Marsaxlokk seafront.

Open Monday to Friday noon-11pm, Saturday 8am-11pm, Sunday 8am-10pm.

Terrone, 1, Wilġa Street, Marsaxlokk. T: 2704 2656; E: info@terrone.com.mt; www.terrone.com.mt

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EATING & DRINKING

Townhouse No3 Townhouse No3 is located in one of Rabat’s most picturesque alleys, within a converted townhouse that used to house one of the most popular bars after World War II. This designer-finished restaurant offers an elevated level of dining in the northern part of Malta. The menu changes seasonally, but the focus always remains on local produce, while the wine list boasts hard-to-find wines from boutique wineries.

Open Tuesday to Saturday 6.30-10.30pm; Sunday noon-3pm. Sunday and Monday dinner by booking only. Private cellar by booking only.

Townhouse No3, Republic Street, Rabat, Malta.

M: 7900 4123; E: info@townhouseno3.com

Wood & Coal Wood & Coal is run by award-winning chef Gilbert Portelli, a Pizzaiolo trained in Italy and the most knowledgeable chef on Scottoncina meats on the island of Malta.

What may seem like an obvious partnership took its time to fully come into its own, and now it has at Wood & Coal in Attard. Wood and Coal specialises in prime cuts from the Scottona (heifer cow) of which meat is known as the sister of Waygu beef due to its small infiltrations of fat in the muscle mass, known as marbling.

Wood & Coal, Triq iż-Żgħafran, Attard.

M: 7957 0073; www.woodandcoal.com.mt

Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro Right in the heart of Sliema lies Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro, serving wholesome home cooking at unbeatable prices. Chef patron Chris uses the freshest ingredients to create tasty Maltese dishes like Dad’s famous braġjoli, thick beef stew, veal escalopes and rabbit, and for those with a sweet tooth, the deliciously crunchy imqaret – a must-try datefilled pastry. Patrons are also spoilt for choice with the daily specials ranging from fresh fish to beef fillet and various pasta dishes. Everything at this price-worthy restaurant is served in the unique setting of a former bakery. Ta’ Kris is one of the best-rated restaurants by the Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants.

Booking is recommended. Set menus for special occasions can also be arranged upon request.

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Open Monday to Saturday 12.30-11pm, Sunday 6-11pm.

Ta’ Kris, 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema. T: 2133 7367; M: 7933 7367; www.takrisrestaurant.com

EATING & DRINKING

L’Aroma Restaurant Situated on the Sliema seafront, just a stone’s throw away from the shopping area, L’Aroma Restaurant, which specialises in Maltese food, has recently been taken over by new management that has put together a mouth-watering Mediterranean-based menu at good value for money. The menu comprises a selection of fine meat cuts, fresh fish, pasta and salads, all made using the freshest ingredients. One of the house specialities is rabbit, which has been described as the “best in town” by the restaurant’s clientele. The overall great service, snug ambience and appealing Mediterranean dishes make L’Aroma a good choice of restaurant, be it for a quick lunch or for a lingering dinner with friends.

L’Aroma Restaurant, 17, Għar il-Lembi Street, Sliema.

T: 2131 7633.

TAKE NOTE

TAKE NOTE 12.30pm in Malta and from 7.30am to 11am in Gozo. Details of the roster are available on the local Sunday newspapers.

BANKS AND CURRENCY EXCHANGE Banks are normally open between 8.30am and 1.30pm Mon-Thur, between 8.30am and 3.30pm on Fri, and up to noon on Sat. Some banks open for longer hours.

International bank cards are accepted and foreign currency is easily exchanged. Banks, Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) and exchange bureaux can be found all over the islands.

USEFUL AND EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NOS 00356 International Code 112 Emergency Services 1182 Directory Enquiries 1152 Overseas Operator 195 Time Check 2124 9600 Flight Enquiries TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES IN MALTA Malta Tourism Authority-run offices may be found at: Valletta 28, Melita Street.

T: 2291 5440/1/2 Malta International Airport Arrivals Lounge, Luqa. T: 2369 6073/4 Gozo, Mġarr Gozo Channel Ferry Terminal.

T: 2155 4538

Gozo, Rabat 17, Independence Square.

T: 2291 5452/3 Marsaxlokk Xatt is-Sajjieda. T: 2165 1151 Mdina St Publius Square. T: 2145 4480 Mellieħa Misraħ iż-żjara tal-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II26 ta’ Mejju 1990. T: 2152 4666 Sliema Info Desk Plaza Commercial Centre. T: 2136 3691 St Paul’s Bay Misraħ il-Bajja (Buġibba). T: 2141 9176 Valletta Waterfront Pinto Wharf. T: 2122 0633 Birgu (Vittoriosa) Inquisitor’s Palace, Main Gate Street.

T: 2180 0145

Public hospital in Malta Mater Dei Hospital, B’Kara By-pass, B’Kara.

T: 2545 0000; E: mdh@gov.mt Public hospital in Gozo Gozo General Hospital, Rabat.

T: 2156 1600 CHEMISTS Chemists are found throughout the islands and are open during normal shopping hours. On Sundays they operate on a roster from 9am to

SMOKING No smoking is allowed in any entertainment establishment, including bars and restaurants, unless there is a designated smoking area.

POSTAL SERVICES Most towns and villages have post or sub-post offices. Branch Post Offices in Malta and Gozo are open between 7.30am and 12.45pm Mon-Sat. Sub-Post Offices are open between 8am and 1pm, and 4pm and 6pm MonFri, and between 8am and 1pm Sat. Stamps can be bought from post offices, local newsagents, souvenir shops and hotels.

ELECTRICITY The electrical supply is 230 volts, 50 hertz. The three-pin rectangular plug system is used, as in Britain. Adapters are very easy to find.

TIPPING Gratuities are usually in the region of 10-15 per cent, as in most European countries. As a rule of thumb: taxi drivers – not expected, but up to 10 per cent; porters – €0.50 per piece of luggage; restaurants, unless a service charge is added to the bill, 10 per cent.

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FASHION

Fall in love with

Charles & Ron Charles & Ron is a contemporary lifestyle brand of high-end clothing and bags with a distinct Mediterranean flair and a dedication to superior quality.

Maltese culture is an integral part of the Charles & Ron design ethic, and the brand’s vision is to inspire customers to be part of the ‘love affair’ with the brand’s instantlyrecognisable Mediterranean style.

MEDITERRANEAN IDENTITY “Malta has always been of enormous inspiration to our

work, and throughout the years, we’ve enjoyed designing with inspiration from the Mediterranean and all it offers. For us, it’s important to incorporate certain aspects of culture, architecture and tradition, and show them in a different and unexpected way.

We’ve incorporated these references into our brand since the beginning – they define us as a brand, and we believe it’s important to embrace and appreciate your heritage.”

CELEBRITIES AND FEMININE SHAPES “In the past year, we’ve had the pleasure of dressing many international celebrities, including

singer Jessie J, Nathalie Emmanuel (Game of Thrones), singer Ashanti, Ally Brooke (Fifth Harmony) and Michelle Williams (Destiny’s Child).

These moments have been very satisfying for us as designers, however, we take pride in designing for all kinds of women. The Charles & Ron woman does love statement pieces with a feminine silhouette and is never afraid to stand out in a crowd.”

THE IMPORTANCE OF ACCESSORIES “Key items in our range are our Malta-inspired luxury scarves and our leather bags.

Our handbags are made from the finest Italian leather and hand-crafted in Malta. By taking home one of our bags and/or scarves, you will truly be taking home the spirit and beauty of the Maltese islands!”

Charles & Ron, 58D, Republic Street, Valletta. T: 2124 0184.

Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, Attard.

Opening soon at Level -3, The Point Shopping Mall, Sliema. www.charlesandron.com 75

FASHION

Step into the cooler season in style Each season brings with it lots of new and exciting trends, and this autumn/winter is no exception, as Martina Said discovers.

The animal in you Many have a love-hate relationship with animal print – but there’s no better season to try and embrace it if you’re on the ‘hate’ side of the fence. Animal print was all over the autumn/winter 2018 runways, and not subtly either. Designers like Max Mara and Dolce & Gabbana displayed head-to-toe animal print looks, ranging from zebra and leopard to tiger and giraffe prints. ➜

Pedro del Hierro

Valentino

Mad for leather Leather made an appearance on many runway shows, in different colours and in various combinations. The leather dress appears to be making Escada a hit, as seen in the collections of Givenchy, French Connection Victoria Beckham and Miu Miu, but others played with leather combinations, such as a leather blouse and matching skirt. The dominant colour in leather wear is black, although you may be surprised by other intriguing colours, such as green, red and a lovely shade of tan.

Dolce & Gabbana

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FASHION

Hit the shops…

Check out Malta’s top shopping destinations.

VALLETTA Our stunning capital city offers so much more than history and architecture. In and around the beautiful Baroque buildings that line the city’s streets lie several high-street outlets for a dose of retail therapy amid the culture and history lessons.

Don’t miss: Republic Street, Merchants Street and The Embassy Complex

SLIEMA Sliema is the undisputed shopping centre of Malta. Look out for the main streets that house a variety of high-street and designer brands, as well as the islands’ biggest shopping malls.

Don’t miss: Bisazza Street, Tower Road, The Plaza Shopping Centre and The Point Shopping Mall

ST JULIAN’S For the more discerning shopper, the area opposite the upmarket complex of Portomaso is home to a selection of designer shops that beckon you to explore what’s on their beautiful rails. A shopping complex just down the road from the nightlife capital of Paceville is also open on Sundays.

Don’t miss: Bay Street Shopping Complex and Portomaso Christian Dior

The great (es)cape The cape has made a strong and memorable return to the world of bridal wear, and we couldn’t be more pleased to see it appear in readyto-wear collections too. Not only are winter capes looking thicker and warmer than usual, but they’re here in all colours, prints and patterns – from the plain and structured as seen at Nina Ricci to the full-on floral kind as seen at Erdem.

Leonard Paris

Tweed-tastic One trend we can rely on making an appearance with near certainty in autumn/winter collections each year is tweed – and why wouldn’t it? Its chic and sophisticated appearance will complete any winter wardrobe, and it literally goes with anything – be it in the form of an oversized coat or an elegant skirtand-jacket suit à la Chanel. ➜

78 Theory

Beulah London

FASHION

Givenchy Paco Rabanne

Silver siren Add a futuristic touch to your winter wardrobe with the metallic colour du jour: silver. From two-piece metallic suits and edgy metallic dresses to bulky parka jackets and plenty of silver accessories to boot, you can add as little or as much sparkle and shine as you wish this season.

Charles & Ron

Alberta Ferretti

Loud and proud Designers didn’t hide behind a sombre winter mood for their collections this winter – quite the contrary, actually. Maltese designer duo Charles & Ron drew inspiration from their favourite Maltese palace, Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar, for their A/W 2018/2019 collection, including its rich marble floors and Versailles-inspired ballroom, all featured in re-imagined prints and hand beading, in a playful palette of stunning colours.

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TAKE NOTE

The Point Shopping Mall Celebrating eight years of growth and success

Since opening its doors in 2010, The Point has become Malta’s favourite shopping destination for locals and tourists alike.

It occupies a special and unique space in Malta’s shopping environment, attracting 2.5 million local and foreign visitors every year. The Point, in fact, enjoys a unique status as Malta’s retail jewel; it plays host to the largest concentration of exclusive brands in Malta, all conveniently located under one roof, within a stunning ambience.

Strategically located in the heart of Sliema’s bustling centre, The Point offers a dynamic mix of the latest fashion, beauty, health, and lifestyle stores for convenience and shopping pleasure. The extensive array of food outlets has been hand-picked to appeal to a cross-section of tastes and budgets. Ample parking with 24-hour security

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Listing your property for sale exclusively with Belair Property will automatically mean that a sales associate is assigned to you and will advise and guide you in everything you need. This is something that will not happen if you were to list your property through several agencies.

completes a package that is the last word in comfort, service and convenience for The Point’s visitors.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm, and every Sunday 11am-6.30pm.

The Point Shopping Mall, Tigné Point, Sliema.

T: 2247 0300; E: info@thepointmalta.com; www.thepointmalta.com

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We’ve cornered the market with online advertising and promotion of properties using our highly trained professionals who are standing by to offer a strategic, yet personalised experience that is second-to-none.

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Steve Borg

David Aquilina

Mike Agius

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NIGHTLIFE

Malta After Sunset

The autumn months bring new life to the Maltese islands… and the nightlife scene is better than ever. From festivals and parties to theatre and opera, there’s something for absolutely everyone. Here are our favourites!

Winter’s just around the corner and you may be sad to see the summer go… but fear not!

Malta’s nightlife calendar is still overflowing with cultural evenings and late-night activities to keep you entertained – in fact, it’s probably going to be busier than ever.

With that in mind, we’ve rounded up some of the best things happening throughout October and November to help you make the most of the cooler autumn evenings and the true spirit of these beautiful islands.

Festivals 6 October Notte Bianca For one special Saturday evening, Valletta comes to life as the cityscape is charged with the vibrant energy of Maltese culture and world-class entertainment.

On Notte Bianca, crowds both old and young gather on the city’s streets to enjoy the best in arts and culture that the islands have to offer. State palaces and museums will be open till late and taken over

Notte Bianca - Photo: Inigo Taylor

by creatives who have prepared a spectacular programme of music, dance, theatre, visual arts and literary events. This year’s line-up promises to be the best one yet, with both local and international acts, including top musicians Emma Muscat and Biondo, Vinicio Capossela, Toploader, Tangerine Dream, The Selector and Beheaded set to headline the event. www.lejlimdawwal.org 12-14 October Birgufest Roam through the streets of one of Malta’s oldest and most historically-rich cities, and experience Birgu by candlelight.

In a celebration of culture, history and art, Birgu is bedecked with candles and chandeliers hang in the streets, while music ruminates throughout the winding pathways and even the houses are bathed in a warm glow. Expect historical re-enactments, al fresco dining by candlelight, and museums and historical buildings that extend their opening hours in celebration. We recommend making time to visit Fort St Angelo, which offers truly unbeatable views of Valletta. www.facebook.com/birgufest ➜

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NIGHTLIFE

Three Palaces Festival

2-11 November Three Palaces Festival November will welcome the sixth edition of this week-long festival, packed full of performances taking place in historicallysignificant and beautiful locations, including the National Museum of Archaeology. Three of Malta’s historical Baroque palaces – San Anton Palace, Verdala Palace and the Grandmaster’s Palace – will see performances by international artists, bringing audiences together to experience music of excellent quality as a community. www.3palacesfestival.com

Clubbing & Parties 6 October Anthony Rother – ADJ set + Sugar Experiment Station Legendary electro figure Anthony Rother will make his Disorder debut at Liquid Club in the centre of Malta, while cult Scottish duo Sugar Experiment Station (made up of Neil Landstrumm and Tobias Schmidt) will be returning to the night, having made numerous solo appearances here already. Definitely one for electro music fans.

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US/Them - Photo: Emma Micallef

13 October Tale Party Jump into a pool party to round off the summer at the Movida Beach Lido in Sliema. Featuring old school hip-hop classics and future beats, the entertainment will include live hip-hop dancers and top DJs. Highlights include the huge pool and stunning views of Valletta.

2-5 November Malta Dance Festival Sitting neatly between the categories of clubbing and festivals, the Malta Dance Festival is a four-night extravaganza of parties held at the Salini Resort in St Paul’s Bay. Featuring the likes of Valentina Sinatra (Italy), Tamba & Emanuela (UK), JJ Pachanga & Dasha (Belgium), and Byron Espin (Greece), the festival promises top DJs combined with great parties, amazing shows and fun workshops.

3 November Halloween Massacre Known among the rock crowd as the best Halloween event on the block, this party returns to The Garage in Żebbug for three live music acts – ClubMurder, Decline the Fall, and MyThrill – followed by a set by DJ Hades.

It promises to showcase a slice of Malta’s thriving rock scene for one night only.

17 November Class of 95 For the fourth consecutive year, this massive 90s party returns to The Dome at Tigullio, one of Malta’s most popular party venues.

DJs Clint and Dave will run revellers through a night of 90s hits guaranteed to take you on a fun-packed journey down memory lane. So grab your 90s-inspired outfit, your Gameboy, and go! ➜

NIGHTLIFE Mediterranean religions – Catholic, Muslim, and Jewish – clash. It will be performed in English. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt

Amadeus

Theatre & Opera 4-7, 11-14 October US/THEM This is an eye-opening play that sees brutal terrorism coincide with child-like innocence, and it is being performed in one of Valletta’s most fascinating old buildings – Splendid (a historic hotel).

Written by Belgian playwright Carly Wijs, US/THEM follows two child-witnesses as they recall the events that took place on Russia’s Knowledge Day, when a group of Chechen terrorists stormed into a school in the small town of Beslan, taking 1,200 hostages.

Their child-like innocence mixes amusing anecdotes and animated gestures, leaving audiences torn between laughter and grief. It will be performed in English. www.showshappening.com 5-7, 12-14 October The Jew of Malta Very few classic plays actually have the word ‘Malta’ in the title – but this one does, and this will be the first time it is ever performed

here. Watch Christopher Marlowe’s Jew of Malta at Teatru Manoel, the oldest theatre on the islands.

This Elizabethan rollercoaster delves into the darker side of 16th century realities, which arguably still prevail almost 400 years after it was originally written. In a dark, hilarious and subversive tragicomedy, Marlowe cynically dissects a world where politics, greed and the three

13 October Tosca Explore the depths of tragedy and romance in Giacomo Puccini’s timeless classic, Tosca, based on Victorien Sardou’s 1887 Frenchlanguage melodramatic play of the same name. It will be staged at the Aurora Theatre – one of two beautiful theatres in the Gozitan capital, Rabat. This enduring masterpiece depicts a dangerous love triangle, told through some of Puccini’s most-loved lyrical arias.

The production will be brought to life by the ever-so stylish local family firm camilleriparismode – flaunting costumes designed by the talented Gozitan couturier Luke Azzopardi, and stunning sets by Maltese designer Andrew Borg Wirth. www.teatruaurora.com ➜

Jew of Malta - Photo: Justin Mamo

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NIGHTLIFE 19-21, 26-28 October Amadeus Hold onto your seats as Amadeus, the iconic play by Peter Shaffer, will be brought to life at Teatru Manoel.

Staged by Masquerade Theatre Company at this beautiful Baroque theatre, Amadeus will feature some of Malta’s finest performers as the play’s leads and supporting roles, including Thomas Camilleri as Mozart and Manuel Cauchi as Salieri, under the direction of Stephen Oliver. Amadeus follows the lives of composers Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Antonio Salieri in a fictionalised history of their intense competition against the backdrop of 18th-century Vienna.

It will be performed in English. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt 19-21, 26-28 October De-Terminated The Maltese islands are one of five states with the strictest abortion laws in the world, and debate is rife.

In this new play by Times of Malta journalist Herman Grech, characters take on that debate using real-world experiences and genuine interviews from local people with a connection to the pro-life/pro-choice discussion. www.kreattivita.org

from the smouldering ashes of sacrificial love as a testimony to the unequalled strength of the main character, Violetta. The evening is set to be the highlight of the annual Festival Mediterranea 2018, which will celebrate 7,000 years of culture on Gozo. The Malta Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Mro Paul Walsh, will be performing Verdi’s magnificent score at Teatru Astra in Victoria, Gozo. www.teatruastra.org.mt

Music 3 October Cliff Zammit Stevens: 10th Anniversary Concert One of Malta’s top tenors, Cliff Zammit Stevens, will be celebrating the 10-year anniversary of his musical career with an open-air concert in St George’s Square, Valletta. Featuring a mix of musical styles and a performance by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra,

25, 27 October La Traviata Giuseppe Verdi’s genius has never been clearer than in La Traviata, where the human condition is exposed in all its strengths and weaknesses. Based on the 1852 play by Alexandre Dumas, the opera marked a large step forward for Verdi in his quest to express dramatic ideas in music. La Traviata, ‘the fallen woman’, rises 90

Cliff Zammit Stevens - Photo: Kris Micallef

this annual concert has become a landmark event on the Maltese calendar. This year, Cliff will welcome special guest Ira Losco on stage to mark the release of their new single, Xemx. It promises to be a glorious evening of entertainment under the stars. www.showshappening.com 9 November SOS! ABBA Revival: The Tribute The UK’s No 1 ABBA tribute band, Revival, will bring the legendary Swedish pop group’s biggest hits to life in a spectacular show at Malta’s top partying destination, Gianpula, in the limits of Rabat. Showcasing stunning costumes, incredible singing and fully-choreographed dancing, this event is calling all dancing queens to get into the groove with ABBA’s favourites. To add even more feel-good factor to this event, all profits will go towards Save Valletta’s Skyline. www.ticketline.com.mt

TAKE NOTE Photo: Anthony Vella - viewingmalta.com

Getting Around

M

alta is about 27 kilometres long and 14.5 kilometres wide.

Short distances make it possible to make the most of your stay at a relaxed pace. The network of buses within the public transport system covers nearly all the islands. Car hire rates in Malta are good value. You may also enjoy a relaxing trip on the calm, blue Mediterranean Sea by taking an island or harbour cruise or cross between Valletta and Sliema by ferry at half hourly intervals.

Look out for

reduced bus fares through the 12 Single Day Journey Card and the Explore 7 Day Card

BUSES The public transport services offered in the Maltese islands operate on a network offering multiple connections and main termini in Malta’s capital, Valletta, and Gozo’s capital, Rabat. A total of 80 different routes link the different localities in Malta to either major hubs such as Valletta, Mater Dei Hospital and the airport or to other destinations, while 15 routes operate in Gozo.

The public transport service runs daily between 5.30am and 11pm, with express routes (designated with an ‘X’) having limited stops and operating to and from the airport from different localities. Three digit routes link different localities together and, in most cases, do not serve Valletta.

A journey planner, timetable information and details on bus fares are available at www.publictransport.com.mt. More details on T: 2122 2000 and on page 95.

TRAVELLING TO GOZO A regular ro-ro ferry service carries passengers and cars between Malta and Gozo. The trip takes about 30 minutes. For information and time-tables contact The Gozo Channel Company on T: 2210 9000, or visit www.gozochannel.com CAR HIRE Most international car hire companies have a branch in Malta. Local companies too offer this service, with or without a chauffeur. Car hire rates are very reasonable compared to those in other European countries.

TAXIS All taxis are fitted with meters and should charge government-controlled prices. Any complaints should be addressed to the Public Transport Authority, T: 2143 8475. A number of private companies also offer competitive chauffeur-driven services.

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Date: May 2018

2018-05-04 16:49:00

MALTA BY BUS

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valletta

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