Guide Me April-June 2020 by Content House

M A L T A

G O Z O

GUIDE ME A SPECIAL

A P R I L -J U N E 2 0 2 0 | € 3

E X P E R I E N C E

90TH EDITION CELEBRATING

15 YEARS

EXPLORE

Discover the islands’ best diving spots p. 20

FOOD & DRINK

Malta’s newly-revealed Michelinrecognised restaurants p. 26

FA S H I O N

Three designers making waves in the local fashion scene p. 66

G U I D E M E M A LTA .C O M

OF GUIDE ME

CONTENTS

14. 20.

36 26. 36. 04

What’s on

Easter celebrations, art exhibitions, festivals and Malta Fashion Week are just some of the events being held in the coming months.

Outdoor island adventures in springtime

In springtime, the great outdoors is impossible to resist, and Malta and Gozo’s landscapes and seascapes offer the best escapes.

Beneath the blue surface

From scuttled wrecks and sea caves to fascinating marine life, there’s plenty to explore and enjoy beneath the surface of the islands’ waters.

Recipe for success: Michelin Guide lists 26 exceptional restaurants in Malta

For the first time in its culinary history, the Maltese islands and 26 of their best restaurants have been recognised by the prestigious Michelin Guide, putting this archipelago on every foodie’s mustvisit list.

The life of the party

“I worked hard and played hard,” says Cecil Bartoli, 94, who lived through the hardships of World War II, travelled around the globe with a video camera, and is eager to celebrate his 100th birthday.

53. 62. 66. 76. 84.

Investing in Malta guide

An in-depth look at what it takes to set up a business in Malta and insider tips to planning your own corporate event or conference on the islands.

ON THE COVER

Photography: Kurt Paris Model: Francesca Cremona from Supernova Models Designer: Ritienne Zammit Hair: Chris Galea Make-up: Elaine Galea Jewellery: Yana’s Jewellery

Breaking the wellness mould We catch up with the director of Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa’s brandnew Athenaeum Spa, which will open its door in the coming weeks with an aim to redefine our approach to wellness.

EDITOR Martina Said PUBLISHERS Content House Group

Bright young things

Ahead of Malta Fashion Week and Awards this May, three local up-andcoming designers share their work, passion and views on Malta’s fashion scene.

ADVERTISING Director of Sales & Business Development Matthew Spiteri Brand Sales Manager Diane Scerri Senior Brand Sales Executive Matthew Sciriha

Master of art and servant of the good life

Operations & Client Relationship Manager Elena Dimech

Art veteran Paul Carbonaro’s work continues to draw legions of admirers. The artist lets us into his idyllic hideaway in Gozo to discuss the experiences that have moulded him into one of the island’s greatest.

ART DIRECTION & DESIGN Nicholas Cutajar

Content House Group, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Zone 3, Central Business District Birkirkara CBD3010 T: +356 2132 0713 E: info@contenthouse.com.mt W: www.contenthouse.com.mt

Play, play, baby

Indie-rock Maltese band Beangrowers, made up of trio Alison Galea, Mark Sansone and Ian Schranz, began making music in the late 1990s – and are still going strong, proving their cult credentials.

Published since 2005, Guide Me is the largest and the leading independent guide for visitors in Malta and Gozo. The publication is published every two months. This issue covers the period April-June 2020. Guide Me is distributed free of charge through leading hotels around Malta and Gozo. The publication is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo. It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at the MIA and Gozo Channel ferries. Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me are not necessarily those of Content House Group and the company does not accept responsibility for advertising content. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

We care about the environment

Because we care about the environment, Guide Me is printed on FSC-certified paper, a certification which provides assurance that the paper is from sustainable and well-managed sources, thereby minimising its environmental impacts.

EDITORIAL

GUIDEME

A LANDMARK EDITION

Dingli Cliffs. Photo: viewingmalta.com

his issue of Guide Me magazine is a special one on different levels – both personally and for its publisher, Content House. First and foremost, it was worked on during a period of immense pressure for every team member involved in its production, against the backdrop of the unprecedented times we live in, due to the spread of this global pandemic. For that reason alone, we’re truly proud to deliver it on time to our readers – and looking better than it ever has. This issue marks the 90th edition of Guide Me, a venerable achievement for this much-loved magazine that has guided countless visitors across the Maltese islands and intrigued many locals. It also marks its 15th anniversary, proving it truly has come a long way from its humble beginnings in 2005. If two milestones in one edition weren’t enough, we’re also thrilled to present Guide Me’s brand-new look – a fresh and sophisticated transformation that reflects the brand’s roots and its future trajectory. Bigger in size and heaving with incredible stories and imagery, it’s a truly exciting new chapter in this publication’s journey. As its editor since 2016, I’ve watched Guide Me grow, change and adapt to the times, no matter the circumstances. From this edition onwards, just as we’ve done before, we’re excited to share stories about the islands, but also about its many colourful inhabitants who have left and are leaving their mark on others, and on the industries they excel at. From an interview with a World War II veteran to a catch-up with one of Malta’s favourite Indie-rock bands from the late ‘90s and a chat with the chefs of Malta’s first-ever Michelin-awarded restaurants, we hope you enjoy the issue. Martina Said Editor

what’s ON GUIDEME

From the celebration of Easter on the islands to the most anticipated festivals to hit our shores, MARTINA SAID rounds up the events you shouldn’t miss in the coming months. Malta Fashion Week. Photo: Kurt Paris

Between Ash & Dust

1-26 April The exhibition by artist Vince Briffa explores implausible distances and detached spaces, splitting up such evasive elements as smoke and sky. These elements are as much about the process of drawing and painting as they are about the current war imagery of destruction taken from tabloids or television. These metaphoric memorials sway unclearly between human intervention and natural phenomena. Where: ArtHall, Victoria, Gozo, arthallgozo.com

Strings in Spring

3 April Celebrated Maltese violinist Carmine Lauri joins the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra to perform Beethoven’s lyrical Romance No. 1 and Bruch’s

Concerto No. 1, a work balancing melodic simplicity and virtuosity. The performance will be conducted by Sergey Smbatyan.

Where: Teatru Manoel, Valletta, maltaorchestra.com

A Stroke of Bad Luck

17-19, 24-26 April Collin Willis will be returning to the stage for a biographical performance about his life. The former high commissioner of Australia in Malta, Colin came here for work, fell in love, left his job and stayed in Malta to focus on his passion: theatre. Some years ago, after relocating to Malta, Colin suffered a stroke, and this performance is a personal and intimate portrait of Colin and his partner, actress Nanette Brimmer, as they come to grips with their new normal.

Where: MADC The Clubrooms, Santa Venera, teatrumalta.org.mt

International Spring Orchestra Festival

17-25 April The 14th edition of this annual classical music festival celebrates chamber and orchestral music in stunning settings, including Teatru Manoel, Casino Maltese and the Museum of Archaeology in Valletta, where musicians from far and wide gather to perform pieces by some of the world’s most famous composers. Where: Various locations around Malta, iso-festival.com

Festa Frawli

19 April One of the first events to mark the start of spring on the island is the annual strawberry festival, Festa Frawli, when the parish square of the agricultural village of Mġarr becomes a mecca for all things strawberries. Aside from the constant supply of fresh

These events were still scheduled at the time of print. However, due to measures being undertaken to curb the spread of COVID-19, they could be subject to cancellation or rescheduling. It is advisable to check with the organisers or online prior to attending any event. 08

GUIDEME W H AT ’ S O N

strawberries for sale brought in by the farmers, expect to sample numerous sweets, desserts and novelty dishes inspired and made with the delicious fruit. Where: Mġarr, Malta

Bolshoi Live: Jewels

19 April Choreographer George Balanchine’s ballet, Jewels, will be screened at Spazju Kreattiv

Cinema for one night. Through the ballet, Balanchine pays homage to the three cities and dance schools that had forged his style – Paris, New York and St Petersburg – each bound to its own precious stone: emerald, ruby and diamond. Where: Spazju Kreattiv, Valletta, kreattivita.org

Gozo Half Marathon 2020

25-26 April More than 40 years since the first edition of the Gozo Half Marathon, the sporting event continues to attract many attendees. What began as a marathon in 1977 with a turnout of 35 people, today draws over 1,000 athletes up for a challenge who race along a scenic route. Where: Xagħra, Gozo, gozomarathon.org

AMP Lost & Found Festival 2020

DON’T MISS

30 April-3 May This highly anticipated festival hosted by DJ Annie Mac is now in its sixth edition. For three days, revellers party day and night while one famous DJ after another takes to the decks. The 2020 line-up includes Slowthai, Helena Hauff, Aitch and Seth Troxler, alongside sets from Camelphat, Eats Everything, Partrick Topping and HAAi. For the drum and bass fans, pioneers Shy FX and Flava D will be returning to the festival, while rap fans can enjoy a taste of London’s scene with Headie One, Jay1 and Ms Banks. For tickets and the full line-up, visit lostandfoundfestival. com.

Maundy Thursday, Siġġiewi Church. Photo: viewingmalta.com

EASTER IN MALTA 10-12 April Easter Sunday and the weeks leading up to it are a major event on the islands’ liturgical calendar. The 40 days of Lent, which begin right after carnival, peak with the procession devoted to Our Lady of Sorrows and Palm Sunday soon after, one week before Easter Sunday, effectively ushering in Holy Week. On Maundy Thursday (9 April) and Good Friday (10 April), churches across the islands drape their paintings in purple or black velvet and the faithful gather in droves to reflect on the passion, death and resurrection of Christ. On Maundy Thursday, worshippers carry out the tradition of a pilgrimage to seven churches, called the seven visits. On Good Friday, several towns and villages organise a solemn procession of statues accompanied by people dressed in biblical garb while others carry out acts of penitence, such as walking the procession barefoot. You could observe these customs all over the island, including the Three Cities, Rabat, Valletta and Gozo. On Easter Sunday, the mood is celebratory, and thousands take to the streets to cheer on the statue of the Risen Christ – Birgu is a great place to witness this – and tuck into delicious Easter sweets such as the muchloved Maltese figolla (almond-filled biscuit). Where: Across the Maltese islands

Where: Various locations around Malta

Worker’s Day

1 May This annual holiday celebrates the economic and social achievements of workers around the world. In Malta and Gozo, this day is also a public holiday with commemorative activities taking place in Valletta. Where: Across the Maltese islands These events were still scheduled at the time of print. However, due to measures being undertaken to curb the spread of COVID-19, they could be subject to cancellation or rescheduling. It is advisable to check with the organisers or online prior to attending any event.

GUIDEME W H AT ’ S O N

Photo: viewingmalta.com

DON’T MISS

MALTA INTERNATIONAL FIREWORKS FESTIVAL 18-30 April In a beautiful display of colour, craftsmanship and coordination, the Malta International Fireworks Festival promises a stunning spectacle in the sky for locals and visitors of all ages. Now in its 19th edition, the festival rounds up a colourful almost two-week event, with a show unlike any other on the closing night. Adding to the festivities is the pyro-musical competition held each year, where fireworks are designed to match the rhythm of a musical number, awarding the best ones on the night.

Where: Various locations around Malta, maltafireworksfestival.com

In Guardia Parade

3 May This re-enactment portrays an authentic event that took place regularly inside Malta’s major fortifications, built by the Knights of the Order of St John. During this event, the fort’s garrison performs its military drill to demonstrate to the Grand Bailiff its state of readiness. The show begins at 11am and lasts 40 minutes. Where: Fort St Elmo, Valletta, heritagemalta.com

Met Opera Encore: Tosca (Puccini)

3 May The cinema at Spazju Kreattiv in Valletta will be showing Sir David McVicar’s bold staging of Puccini’s operatic thriller, Tosca, live in HD. Star soprano Anna Netrebko is the passionate title

diva, opposite Brian Jagde as her lover, the idealistic painter Mario Cavaradossi. Michael Volle plays Baron Scarpia, the evil chief of police.

Where: Spazju Kreattiv, Valletta, kreattivita.org

Beland Music Festival

8-10 May Beland Music Festival, organised by Beland Events, is a celebration of Malta’s finest musical talent. The weekend-long event is dedicated to celebrating culture, music and entertainment with a fine line-up of Malta’s top artists as well as international guests. Where: Żejtun, belandevents.com

Chasing The Sun Festival 21-25 May Founded by a group of likeminded people with a passion for partying, Chasing The Sun Festival attracts followers from

all around the globe for five days of back-to-back parties against the backdrop of Malta’s beautiful coastline. The line-up of DJs includes Pioneer, Wigman, Jay Nelson, Wayne Scott Fox, and many more.

Where: Buġibba, St Paul’s Bay, chasingthesun.co.uk

Beethoven 2020

22 May The Malta Philharmonic Orchestra joins in the international celebrations to mark Beethoven’s 250th birthday with a concert at Teatru Manoel in Valletta. Conductor Michael Laus, violinist Charlie Siem and KorMalta join forces to perform The Ruins of Athens and Beethoven’s Violin Concerto in D major. Where: Teatru Manoel, Valletta, teatrumanoel.com.mt

GUIDEME W H AT ’ S O N

DON’T MISS

23 May One of the Three Cities will be hosting its first ever wine festival this year. In collaboration with the Birgu Local Council, the city of Birgu will host visitors at Couvre Port to sample a vast selection of wines and platters in a picturesque setting. Live re-enactments will be performed to bring to life the history of the city, while live bands and artisan sellers will provide entertainment for all. Entrance is free. Where: Couvre Port, Birgu

Al Bano & Romina Power In Concert

29 May In a concert which promises to rekindle memories of times gone by, Italian duo Al Bano and Romina Power will be performing live in Malta for the first time together, along with four backing vocals and a fivepiece band under the direction of Maestro Alterisio Paoletti. The Italian duo, who sold millions of albums world-wide, is wellknown for several European hits which eventually became Italian classics, including Felicità, Tu, Ci sarà and Sempre sempre. Where:

MALTA FASHION WEEK & AWARDS 20-29 May

End of May has become synonymous with the largest fashion event in Malta’s calendar: the Malta Fashion Week and Awards. The week kicks off with a bash attended by many faces synonymous with the local fashion scene, setting in motion seven days of non-stop fashion shows, an awards ceremony celebrating the best in the industry, and of course, closing parties. Designers, models, photographers, make-up artists, hair stylists, and press gather in various locations around Malta to deliver a high-powered celebration of the island’s buzzing fashion scene. Where: Various locations around Malta, fashionweek.com.mt

MFCC, Ta’ Qali, mfcc.com.mt

The Grid Main Event

30 May Anyone up for a physical challenge will have a blast at The Grid. As one of Malta’s most popular outdoor sporting events, open to all fitness levels, this obstacle course will prove to be a physical and mental endurance test for many. A twice-yearly event, the May edition includes a course that averages 12 to 15km with more than 30 obstacles, rough terrains, and plenty of sun and sea. Where: Pembroke, thegridmalta.com

Photo: Bernard Polidano

The Birgu Wine Festival 2020

Valletta Concours d’Elegance

30 May The Valletta Concours d’Elegance, set within the walls of the baroque capital city of Valletta will host a selection of Malta’s finest historic and collector automobiles. Artistic engineering of both the city and the vehicles come together to create a unique event that will undoubtedly appeal to many a classic car enthusiast. Where: St George’s Square, Valletta, vallettaconcoursdelegance.com GM 012

THINGS TO DO

OUTDOOR ISLAND ADVENTURES IN SPRINGTIME A boat trip to the Blue Grotto caves, Wied iż- Żurrieq. Photo: Daniel Malinowski - viewingmalta.com

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Spring is arguably the best time to holiday in Malta – when the weather is warm, the countryside green, and lots of lovely places beckon us to head out and explore. JO CARUANA celebrates the very best of the islands’ outdoors.

alta truly comes alive in the springtime. After months of cooler weather and layered clothing, this is the ideal time to leave the indoors behind, strip off to a t-shirt and shorts, and head happily into the great outdoors.

THE SOUTH

Whether you’re in a car or on public transport, one of the best places to start is in the south of the island. As one of the most rural parts of Malta, there are countless outdoor activities to enjoy here. One of our favourites is the Blue Grotto in Żurrieq, a cove that looks out onto the mysterious island of Filfla, an area you may even recognise from the Brad Pitt film, Troy. Here, you can walk along the cliffs to take in the stunning views, or even hop aboard one of the little boats available for hire and head out to sea for a different vantage point, while marvelling at the

incredible blue waters around you. It’s a busy little port, but a great place to while away a few hours and perhaps even stop for lunch at one of the cafés or restaurants nearby. Just a short drive from here, you’ll also find some of the most historically-important sites on the island – the Haġar Qim and Mnajdra Temples. Dating back to around 3600BC, this UNESCO World Heritage Site gives you the chance to marvel at this 20-tonne stone structure before wandering through the interesting visitor centre and then back outdoors for a walk along the cliffs to enjoy the views out to sea.

Mnajdra Temples, Qrendi. Photo: Clive Vella viewingmalta.com

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GUIDEME THINGS TO DO

Alternatively, if village hopping is more your thing, then the south won’t disappoint either. The coast is dotted with towns and villages, each with their own character, such as Marsaxlokk (known for its lovely seafront promenade and al fresco fish restaurants), Marsascala (also a popular destination for outdoor dining), and Birżebbuġa, which is home to the only sandy beach in the region. Walking between the three can be a bit of a slog, especially as the weather warms, but it can make for a great hike if you are planning a full-day itinerary.

The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Paul, Mdina. Photo: viewingmalta.com

A winding, narrow street in Mdina.

THE CENTRE

With the south behind you, there are some great outdoor spots to explore in the centre of the island too. Ta’ Qali is Malta’s national park, and families head here for walks, picnics and to play ball games. It is also home to the only badger karting facility on the island, where 17 different track layouts mean you and your party can battle it out to be crowned the winner. Great fun if you want to break up a day of more relaxed exploring! Staying in the area, Mdina and Rabat are ideal for whiling away some time too. Mdina is the country’s historic walled former capital, and a walk here feels a lot like stepping back in time, as you admire the centuries-old architecture and Insta-worthy features, such as the much-photographed canons in front of the striking Mdina Cathedral, and the 180-degree vista from the top of the bastion walls. Just opposite the entrance to Mdina is Rabat, a picturesque town that is ideal for an afternoon walk peppered with a stop at the popular pastizzi vendor Crystal Palace, where you can enjoy a cup of piping hot tea and local pastries on the outside deck. From here, it’s only a short drive to Dingli Cliffs, which honestly promises one of the most incredible views in the Mediterranean. A walk along the cliffs is lovely, but a segway tour promises to pack a bit more punch as you whizz along, and regular tours are available. The islands’ favourite snack – pastizzi. Photo: Richard Muscat Azzopardi

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GUIDEME THINGS TO DO

THE NORTH & GOZO

Outdoor lovers would do well to add the north and Gozo to their list of must-sees, as they both promise some of the best walks, views and activities. Highlights in the north include the stunning coastline between Manikata and Popeye Village, which also makes for a fantastic walking trail and picnic route. We suggest driving through the village of Mġarr, where you can pick up a freshly made ftira (local sourdough bread, filled with fresh tomatoes, olives and capers, and drizzled with olive oil) and an overflowing punnet of locallygrown strawberries. They make the ultimate accompaniment to any walk!

Golden Bay. Photo: viewingmalta.com

Finally, a jaunt over to Gozo will complete your trip beautifully. The 25-minute car ferry across brings you into Mġarr Harbour, and from here you can explore on foot or behind the wheel. In fact, you could consider hiring a quad bike from Gozo Quad Biking to add a bit of speed to your tour.

If a few hours of sun worshipping and, perhaps, a dip are on the cards, then the area’s most popular beaches, Golden Bay and Mellieħa Bay, are within a short drive of each other. While they may not be fully serviced at this time of year, they will also be much quieter than in the height of summer, giving you more space to spread out on the sand and relax.

Once on the island, outdoor highlights include the Dwejra Inland Sea (which is now sadly missing its popular neighbour, the Azure Window, which collapsed a couple of years ago), as well as the Ġgantija Temples and the alleys within the walled Cittadella. Then, for the ultimate al fresco evening, enjoy a cool beer on the terrace of the Gleneagles Bar overlooking the port, before hopping aboard to take the sunset ferry home. This really is perfect outdoor island living! GM

The Cittadella in Rabat, Gozo. Photo: Jürgen Scicluna - viewingmalta.com

A freshly made ftira and an overflowing punnet of locallygrown strawberries make the ultimate accompaniment to any walk.

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EXPLORE

BENEATH THE BLUE SURFACE Surrounded by gorgeous blue seas and blessed with an average of 300 days of sunshine annually, the Maltese islands constantly rank among the top diving spots in the world. CAROLINE CURMI shares a local’s perspective on Malta’s popular diving scene and uncovers the sites that contribute towards the perfect underwater experience.

Photo: Casper Tybjerg - viewingmalta.com

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alta’s charm is irresistible to most travellers, but one thing that’s equally attractive as the island’s quaint village streets and majestic fortresses is its seascape. The clear waters are only part of the reason why the Maltese islands constantly rank among the best diving spots in Europe, and the world. With a multitude of wreck sites and natural caves to explore, there is a thrilling underwater adventure awaiting any diver, from beginners to technical divers. One of the many perks that comes with diving is a sense of total relaxation. With no technology available during dives other than the equipment required for the sport, divers can temporarily escape into a beautifully tranquil state that is rarely made available above surface. Contrary to popular belief, it is also a highly social activity – mostly on ground – that allows you to make new and interesting acquaintances. Martin Stanhope from Buddies Dive Cove highlights another interesting element – “there is also the excitement of never knowing what you might see,” he says.

Photo: Buddies Dive Cove

Indeed, most wrecks around Malta have now morphed into artificial reefs and house a large variety of sea life. Among the plethora of different species that inhabit these areas, Martin lists tuna, barracuda, octopus, moray eels and breams as fish which are easily spotted. Dolphins, turtles and mola mola are not as common, yet their sporadic spotting contributes to the excitement diving generates.

There is the excitement of never knowing what you might see. MARTIN STANHOPE, BUDDIES DIVE COVE

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Jürgen Hinsen, from Octopus Garden Diving Centre – Malta, adds some more species to the list: conger eels, sting and electric rays, scorpionfish, flying gurnards and pearly razorfish too can be found, while some bays even host seahorses. Recalling from experience, Jürgen reveals a rare and highly interesting find: “in 2017, there was a three-metre moonfish around Gozo,” he says. This flat, warm-blooded species is not a common find, and serves to highlight an element of beautiful unpredictability to the activity.

GUIDEME E X P LO R E

Photo: Buddies Dive Cove

Due to the island’s position right in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, it is prone to windy days, but this rarely affects diving excursions. There are few days where schools are unable to offer diving excursions during the entire year and, while choppy seas may affect one diving site, a solution to this dilemma can easily be found by hopping to another location on the opposite side of the island. However, it is advised that one first consults with a local diving school to ensure the alternative site is appropriate to your skill level. Wreck sites too require a consultation with local schools to ensure a diver’s safety. As some of the most popular spots across the islands for local and foreign divers alike, Jürgen explains their allure. “All wrecks have their own individual story, which makes these types of dives more adventurous for underwater explorers,” he says, while referring to Malta as a “real underwater museum.” A healthy amount of local diving sites are historical wrecks, and while several date back to the First and Second World Wars, most such sites are inaccessible to recreational divers. There are also traces of Punic ships along Malta’s seabed, although very few, if any, are within diving distance.

All wrecks have their own individual story, which makes these types of dives more adventurous for underwater explorers. JÜRGEN HINSEN, OCTOPUS GARDEN DIVING CENTRE - MALTA The local diving season generally kicks off around May and stretches well into October. Despite touching on late spring and early autumn, the sea temperature is generally warm during these times and allows underwater explorers to venture below the surface with only a wetsuit – considered standard diving apparel. However, diving is not limited to these months only and many continue to pursue this sport during winter. Jürgen confirms that while the sea temperature in Malta can peak at 28 degrees during the warmer months, this figure reduces by half during the colder season. “The water temperature hovers at 16 degrees around that time, which would require a dry suit for diving,” he says, explaining that this waterproof suit keeps the cold at bay.

Photo: Octopus Garden Diving Centre - Malta 023

GUIDEME E X P LO R E

Photo: Octopus Garden Diving Centre - Malta

Two of the most popular wrecks on the islands are the Um El Faroud in Żurrieq and the MS Karwela off the coast of Gozo, each with their own interesting history. The former’s deck was blown off the tanker during a routine clean-up at the Malta Drydocks. The 1995 gas explosion cost the lives of nine Maltese workers and the blast was so severe that the vessel was written off. Scuttled some years later between Żurrieq and Qrendi, The Um El Faroud is no longer intact after a bad storm severed the wreck in two. Both sections have moved drastically from their original position but this has only accentuated the wreck’s allure. MS Karwela’s history is far less turbulent, but equally intriguing. Once a tourist ferry, it was scuttled off the southwestern Gozitan coast in 2006 as an artificial reef. Although smaller in size in comparison to the Um El Faroud, the site is excellent for underwater photography. Due to their depth, both wrecks require advanced diving knowledge to reach, and those with enough experience can even venture into the ships’ interiors, joining a highly exclusive group of people to have done so during their lifetime. For the lesser experienced diver, the P29 wreck off Ċirkewwa point makes for a relatively easy dive. Although one may not be able to fully experience the site, a beginner-level diver should be able to reach the wreck’s highest points and have it in full view. Both Martin and Jürgen recommend the Santa Maria Caves in Comino for those new to diving or those seeking an easy excursion. Forming a congregation of 10 shallow grottos, each cave boasts an individual sense of beauty, with some even accommodating swim-throughs. Especially rich in marine life, the caves too share an interesting history. “That’s where the Count of Monte Cristo was hiding his treasure,” Martin enthuses, linking the site to the production of the popular 2002 film.

Divers can temporarily escape into a beautifully tranquil state that is rarely made available above surface. The Blue Hole in Gozo – previously the site of the Azure Window – also comes highly recommended by both experts, with diving trips to the site easily adjustable to cater to any diver’s level. Other sites such as the Imperial Eagle – the wreck of an old Gozo passenger ferry scuttled close to St Paul’s Bay, the P31 – a Maltese patrol boat previously known as Pasewalk and scuttled in Comino, and Lighthouse Point, in Comino too, also make the cut. With more than 55 dive sites around the island, Jürgen asserts that Malta’s wonderful underwater landscapes are a treat to sore eyes, a statement also supported by Martin. And with the government’s plan to scuttle more ships in the future, it seems that Malta’s underwater reputation will continue to grow. GM

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FOOD & DRINK

G O Z O

26 XAGĦRA

MĠARR

RECIPE FOR SUCCESS:

C O M I N O

MICHELIN GUIDE LISTS 26 EXCEPTIONAL RESTAURANTS IN MALTA Last February, the renowned foodie bible that is the Michelin Guide announced its first guide for Malta, featuring 26 noteworthy restaurants across the islands. SARAH MICALLEF takes a look at the restaurants that made the cut.

hile the appreciation of good food is a sacrosanct feature within the Maltese cultural identity, an experience of dining out on the Maltese islands, just like everywhere else, can range from a simple yet satisfying bite to eat to an elevated experience that is altogether more worthy of note. It is the latter that catches the attention of the food experts at Michelin, and in their first ever guide for Malta, 26 restaurants across the islands fit the bill. Of these, three were bestowed with the high honour – a Michelin Star – and three were awarded a Bib Gourmand, with the remaining eateries gaining a mention in the guide with a Plate symbol. The three restaurants to gain One Star are the first on the islands to receive a Michelin Star – a coveted accolade among chefs and restauranteurs the world over. Meanwhile, the Bib is Michelin’s distinction for good quality and good value cooking, while the Plate symbol isn’t to be sniffed at either – denoting “fresh ingredients, capably prepared; simply a good meal.” These are the restaurants that made the cut. 026

MICHELIN-RECOGNISED RESTAURANTS 1

Briju

Gżira

Aaron´s Kitchen

Valletta

Barracuda

St Julian’s

The Harbour Club

Valletta

KuYa

St Julian’s

Hammett’s Macina

Senglea

Rampila

Valletta

Bahia

Capo Crudo

Valletta

The Golden Fork

Attard

Guzé Bistro

Valletta

Lord Nelson

Mosta

Rubino

Valletta

De Mondion

Mdina

59 Republic

Valletta

The Medina

Mdina

Susurrus

St Julian’s

Root 81

Rabat

Caviar & Bull

St Julian’s

Tartarun Marsaxlokk

Under Grain

Valletta

Terrone

Noni

Valletta

Commando

Mellieħa

Tmun Mġarr

Mgarr, Gozo

Ta´ Frenc

MELLIEĦA

3 2

18 M O S TA

Marsaxlokk

Xagħra, Gozo

VA L L E T TA

ST JULIAN’S

Lija

GŻIRA

LIJA

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GUIDEME FOOD & DRINK

Photo: Brian Grech

ONE STAR

Kevin Bonello

Jonathan Brincat

Victor Borg

De Mondion

Noni

Under Grain

Widely acknowledged as one of the top restaurants in Malta, the elegant de Mondion, situated on the top floor of the luxurious Xara Palace Hotel in Mdina, offers excellent service, food quality and presentation, and was tipped for a star early on when Michelin announced the inclusion of Maltese restaurants in its guide. “We worked incessantly for the past years and always aimed to gain this worldwide prestigious title. Our eyes were always on the prize, and this is what the team at the de Mondion Restaurant has been working on endlessly,” the team said of the accolade. De Mondion is led by Group Chef de Cuisine, Kevin Bonello. The Michelin Guide describes the menu as a showcase of “the best of the island’s produce in sophisticated, classically based Mediterranean dishes.”

Located in a stylishly refurbished former jazz bar, the gorgeous Noni, headed by Chef Jonathan Brincat, reinterprets traditional Maltese dishes from fried rabbit to te fittazza (tea in a tumbler), and adds a touch of French cuisine flair, with exquisite results. Speaking of the award on social media, the team at the stylish Valletta eatery said, “we are honoured and humbled by the news that we’ve gained a Michelin star in the first Michelin Guide for Malta. We would never have come this far if it wasn’t for your continued support and the hard work our staff put in, every single night. We owe this award to you, our customers, and our staff, partners, and suppliers.” And with the Michelin Guide applauding their modern approach to traditional cuisine, the team promise, there’s more to come: “our goal remains the same from now on – the pursuit of our modern approach to traditional Maltese and Mediterranean cuisines and to serve you humbly, happily, and proudly. Thank you!”

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The recently opened Grain, set within the luxurious five-star Rosselli hotel in Valletta, comprises different dining experiences in one. At street level, it offers a casual dining set-up with small sharing plates, but head downstairs and it’s a whole other level (literally) at Under Grain, where refined dining meets experimental flavours. Drawing on the restaurant’s inspiration from the tailoring profession, the Michelin Guide comments that “like a tailor, the chef is skilful with his hands, creating well-balanced modern Mediterranean dishes which burst with flavour.” “This is an honour and a big achievement for us, especially for Under Grain to have been open for five months and be recognised with one Michelin star,” Executive Chef Victor Borg says in his reaction. “This has been a lifelong dream for me... I’ve been working for this for 30 years. It’s not just waking up one fine morning and deciding to go after a Michelin star.”

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BIB GOURMAND

The team at Terrone

Terrone

A cosy eatery in the charming fishing village of Marsaxlokk, Terrone is a worthy recipient of Michelin’s Bib Gourmand accolade. Featuring a mix of Maltese and Southern Italian influences within a varied menu that changes regularly, the bistro “uses its wood fire to great effect to bring out the best of the excellent ingredients,” according to the experts at Michelin. Having trained in the south of Italy and in London’s River Cafe, a Michelin starred restaurant specialising in seasonal and regional Italian cuisine, Chef Patron Adrian Hili reveals that upon settling in Malta to open Terrone in 2014, he wanted to embrace the Mediterranean kitchen ethos and champion seasonal local produce. “Terrone was born out of this desire. Quality local produce, simple cooking methods, a great setting and a relaxed vibe,” he says, adding that while the team has refined its cuisine over the years, the emphasis remains on these original values. “I, together with my kitchen stalwart Head Chef, Zeljko Ilic, feel proud to have been recognised by the Michelin Guide. It is motivation to keep pushing ourselves to be better,” he says.

The team at Commando

Commando

Rubino

Head Chef and owner Damian Ciappara describes being recognised by the Michelin Guide as “a true example of hard work paying off” and “every chef and restaurateur’s dream”. Having said that, he reveals that for his restaurant, “our ultimate goal is to keep doing what we love and what we believe in to keep our customers coming back for our food and service, which at the end of the day is why our doors are open.”

Describing the eatery as a “longstanding favourite where you can choose classic Maltese and Italian dishes from the blackboard,” the Michelin Guide strongly recommends sampling the cassata Siciliana, which is an ode to the original menu, and has been on offer at Rubino since it’s confectionery days. Commenting on the Michelin mention, the team at Rubino described it as “an honour” on social media, stating, “hard work pays off!”

Set inside a 300-year-old building, Commando Restaurant is perched on a hilltop in the historic centre of Mellieħa, with summertime seating available outside on the picturesque square. Offering a warm, family-run service and an exceptional menu, the simple-yetrefined food Commando serves is extraordinary, and in the Michelin Guide’s view, “accurately prepared to create satisfying dishes with subtle modern twists.”

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Open since 1906, this confectionery cum restaurant is one of the oldest establishments in Valletta and was taken over by Karl and Michael Diacono in 2008 – two brothers hailing from a family whose name is synonymous with food on the island. Their expertise has now moved on to the next generation, with Edward Diacono putting his stamp on the cuisine at Rubino as Head Chef.

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MICHELIN PLATES Briju

A newcomer to the local restaurant scene, Briju in Gżira is the brainchild of the Pulled Meat Company’s Chef Rafel Sammut, and while the space itself is unassuming, the dishes that come out of the kitchen are exceptional. The emphasis here is on fresh, seasonal, and typical ingredients that bely Rafel’s love and respect for Malta and its produce.

Rampila

A unique Maltese and Mediterranean fusion restaurant and wine bar set within the historic bastions of Valletta, a meal at Rampila combines creatively put together dishes with stunning views of the commanding City Gate from its terrace. The Michelin Guide’s verdict is that of “wholesome dishes [which] mix local, Italian and Mediterranean influences.”

Guzé Bistro

Situated in a charming 16th-century building in Valletta, Guzé is all about authenticity. The welcoming and cosy restaurant has an original and inventive menu of “generously proportioned” dishes, in the words of the Michelin Guide, based on seasonal produce and a genuine passion for food.

Capo Crudo

Another Valletta eatery, this time sitting beneath the capital’s fortifications with views right across to Manoel Island, Capo Crudo offers a unique dining experience. With crudo and seafood dishes underpinning the menu, the eatery is perfectly positioned to highlight the stunning produce which the Mediterranean Sea affords.

The Harbour Club

True to its name, this elegant eatery is just a few seconds’ walk from the promenade overlooking Grand Harbour – and has a divine Mediterranean menu with French influences to top it off, which changes according to seasonality. Boasting a “unique and intimate setting”, Michelin affirms that the “well-presented, creative dishes showcase top island ingredients.”

The Harbour Club

Barracuda

One of the stalwarts of Malta’s fine dining scene, Barracuda, set within a restored 18th century villa right by the water’s edge in St Julian’s, combines heritage, ambience and food in a way that’s hard to match. The menu features a selection of quality meat, fish and shellfish options, and a daily catch which is offered grilled, steamed or baked al cartoccio.

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59 Republic

A relatively recent addition to the Maltese dining scene, 59 Republic is making a name for itself for its quality offering; from sumptuous décor to glorious food. The menu features classic cuisine with a contemporary touch, and Chef Patron Maria Sammut has already racked up several awards for her work, so Michelin’s Plate recognition stands to reason.

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MICHELIN PLATES

Photos: Tonio Lombardi

Bahia

Aaron’s Kitchen

Hammett’s Macina

KuYa

The Golden Fork

Founded and run by Chef Letizia Vella, this eatery, set within a restored townhouse in the quaint village of Attard presents an ever-evolving menu of seasonal dishes, carefully prepared by an experienced team. Michelin describes the menu as modern and concise, providing “plenty of appeal.”

This enviably located restaurant, with gorgeous views of the Mosta Dome, combines a lovely atmosphere with great service and perfectly presented, fine-dining style dishes that fuse elements of French cuisine with an invigorating modern twist. Michelin commends its “original, ambitious dishes which arrive beautifully presented” in the Guide.

Bahia

Susurrus

Root 81

A cosy bistro tucked away in one of the capital’s quieter streets, Aaron’s Kitchen brings Chef Patron Aaron Degabriele’s 20 years of experience to bear on a menu that includes beloved regional classics. The Michelin Guide strongly recommends trying “the fenek – traditional Maltese rabbit cooked with a secret ingredient according to Aaron’s mother’s own recipe.”

This “basement speakeasy”, as Michelin refers to it, started out life as a food truck, following a stint in the Philippines by the owners, brothers Luke and Gabriel Ferris. Dedicated to authentic Asian dishes, the popular truck soon graduated to a permanent venue in St Julian’s, and continues to be a hit among locals and visitors.

Housed in a 200-year-old restored townhouse in the heart of the pretty village of Lija, Bahia boasts a frequently changing menu which features only a handful of dishes, but the precision and respect shown to the ingredients will satisfy even the most fastidious, with the Michelin Guide describing the food as “intricate, innovative cuisine.”

Set within the luxurious Cugó Gran Macina Hotel in Senglea, this eatery is headed by award-winning Chef and restaurateur Chris Hammett and new Head Chef Jorge Lugo. They’ve recently introduced a shared dining concept featuring a modern representation of traditional Mediterranean culinary influences, earning them a worthy spot in the Guide.

With a menu comprising gourmet dishes from all corners of the world, the menu at Susurrus draws on flavours from the Mediterranean to the Middle East, Asia and South America. Set within a glass pavilion on the terraces of the Corinthia Beach Resort in St Julian’s, it provides a feast for the senses, not to mention a “stunning position beside the sea.” 032

Caviar & Bull

Award-winning Chef Marvin Gauci has overseen Caviar & Bull’s refined menu, which offers a fusion of highquality and experimental cuisines with a nod towards molecular gastronomy. The Michelin Guide includes a nod to the premium caviar and AAA Canadian beef on offer and recommends giving the “molecular spheres” a try.

Lord Nelson

A welcoming eatery located on Rabat’s Saqqajja Steps, this innovative restaurant has a warm and friendly ambience, with excellent service and an exquisite, well-priced menu which changes seasonally. Chef patron Robert Cassar and his team have received several awards since opening in 2017, so a mention in the Michelin Guide comes as no surprise.

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MICHELIN PLATES Tmun Mġarr

Moving on over to the sister isle, this established, family-run restaurant in Mġarr, Gozo, has a loyal following among Gozitans and Maltese alike. The menu, prepared by the talented Paul Buttigieg and his team, is varied, seasonal and sublime, so it’s no wonder that the foodies at Michelin have taken notice.

Ta’ Frenc

Considered one of the best finedining restaurants on the Maltese islands, this award-winning eatery is situated within a charming farmhouse overlooking Marsalforn valley in Gozo. Besides its idyllic location, its enduring popularity is also down to its outstanding menu. GM

The Medina

Tmun Mġarr

Set within a restored medieval house just off Mdina’s Cathedral Square, the honey-hued stone walls, pretty internal courtyard and classic garden make this cosy eatery the ideal spot for a romantic dinner date or special occasion. The Michelin Guide describes the food here as “well-executed dishes which exhibit subtle modern twists.”

Tartarun

Offering an upmarket, fine-dining experience set in the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, family-run Tartarun is a rustic yet modern restaurant that specialises in carefully sourced fish and seafood, along with an array of fine wines. Malta being a Mediterranean island, it stands to reason that an exquisite fish restaurant would make it onto the Michelin radar.

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Photos: Inigo Taylor

MEET THE LOCALS

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THE LIFE OF THE PARTY He has lived through the hardships of World War II, lead a successful business which is still going strong, travelled the world more than once, and is now on a mission to celebrate his 100th birthday. MARTINA SAID meets the incredibly warm and wonderful CECIL BARTOLI.

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Start from the beginning? That’s 8th February 1926,” says Cecil Bartoli, 94, with a hearty laugh. “That’s when I was born.” As I’ll come to learn throughout my time spent in Cecil’s company, where we chatted for hours at his St Julian’s home, seated next to a window that offered calming views of St George’s Bay on an overcast day, life is best enjoyed with equal measures of work, laughter, adventure and fun.

“During the war, we had nothing, absolutely nothing, not even food. All I wanted was a camera – actually I had one, but I couldn’t get any film for it as nothing was coming into Malta,” says Cecil. “I was very curious. As a matter of fact, I had a few close shaves during the war!” One such instance came in April 1942, the day the iconic Royal Opera House in Valletta was bombed. Cecil and his family lived in neighbouring Floriana, adjacent to the parish church of St Publius on the Granaries. “From our roof, my brother Harold and I would climb up to the church belfry and stand under the bells, which served as massive steel helmets. We’d watch the dive bombing from there, and, although we didn’t know it then, we had witnessed the attack on the Royal Opera House. Luckily, we weren’t there when they bombed the Floriana church a few weeks later.”

“I enjoyed life, every minute of it. I worked hard and played hard – that’s the secret of life,” he says with another contagious cackle. And enjoyed life he has – Cecil ran a successful business for decades with his brother, he travelled the world, he tried his hand at any sport or activity he could, including cricket at boarding college, golf, tennis, table tennis, chess and windsurfing. He played football for Melita Football Club and Hockey for the Floriana team in his teens – Cecil believes that being a non-smoker and leading an active lifestyle have contributed to his long and healthy life. And, through his passion for film, he created documentaries and short films, some of which even won him local recognition.

I was very curious. As a matter of fact, I had a few close shaves during the war!

Cecil’s adolescent years, however, were lived during a time of intense hardship on the islands, when Malta was blitzed by aircraft bombers throughout World War II. At the time, he was a curious teenager with an acute sense of adventure. He remembers these years with impressive clarity and accuracy.

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GUIDEME M E E T T H E LO C A L S

Around a year earlier, in January 1941, Cecil had witnessed the arrival of the war ship HMS Illustrious, the aircraft carrier that suffered relentless attacks on its voyage through the Sicily channel to Malta. “The Germans wanted to sink the Illustrious at any cost, but they didn’t manage. They came with dive bombers, not the Junkers 88

I remember the day [the Ohio] arrived so clearly – people were clapping and rejoicing. It gave everyone a new lease of life!

bombers, but the deadly Junkers 87 dive bombers. Many sailors onboard the Illustrious were killed,” says Cecil. “I recall two air raids on the Illustrious – one was on Thursday, and I was at college in Mdina at the time, and another was on Sunday. On Sundays, we used to go home from college to take our laundry, and I went to visit some of my friends on the guns, who were positioned on the Floriana side”, on top of what is now the Valletta Waterfront, Cecil explains. “There was a gun emplacement there, a Bofors, used for low-flying aircraft. It was my day off from school, but little did I know my friends would ask me to help supply them with ammunition to load the guns! Luckily, we were a safe distance away from the danger zone – the damage was being done in Grand Harbour.” From all his recollections during this time, however, none are as vivid or unforgettable as British Operation Pedestal, specifically the arrival of the SS Ohio, referred to locally as the Santa Marija Convoy, which sailed into Malta in August 1942 with crucial supplies for the islands. “The Ohio was the

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salvation of Malta. There was widespread starvation, people were searching in dustbins for food and everyone was weak. Many naval ships were sunk trying to get a convoy into Malta. I even saw, with my naked eyes, submarines coming into Malta with aviation spirit in jerrycans.” Cecil recalls seeing a huge hole in the front of the Ohio, and the two destroyers that accompanied it were apparently helping to keep it afloat. The convoy had started out from Britain with 50 ships but most of them had been bombed on their voyage. Although dilapidated, the Ohio survived the journey and brought with it essential resources, without which Malta would have been crippled: food, ammunition and – critically – aviation fuel. “I remember the day it arrived so clearly – people were clapping and rejoicing. It gave everyone a new lease of life!”

over, I even saw the Italian fleet surrender from the Chalet on the Sliema front – I can’t remember the exact date though, you’ll have to check it out.” After leaving college, Cecil worked as a clerk with the army and in the afternoons, he would help his father, a commission agent, run his business, AV Bartoli & Sons. “My father and I had frequent disagreements. I wanted to expand the business and he didn’t. He was very strict,” says Cecil.

Throughout those years, he recalls him and his family being bombed out of every town they were evacuated to – Birkirkara, Rabat, “wherever there was a roof.” He adds, “I saw so much, I only regret not having recorded them. When the war was

By 1962, Cecil and his late brother, Harold, quit their father’s business and set up their own, C&H Bartoli. Today, it is run by Harold’s three children, after Cecil retired in 2007. “We worked 18 hours a day. Work was different in those days, making connections wasn’t easy, we didn’t have the internet. But we did all we could to create business relationships.” Harold focused on the insurance side, while Cecil worked on importing catering equipment, “which my father didn’t have. Whatever people asked us for, we got. If they wanted a catering oven, we found sources and suppliers, and eventually became agents for them. We also moved into laundry equipment. Someone had even asked me for skeletons!” What kind? “Plastic ones,” he smiles, “for educational purposes. I never refused anything. Whatever people wanted, we found a source for them and we imported it.” After stepping back from the business, Cecil focused on enjoying life with his family. As a young man, he married a concert pianist. They shared a daughter, who went on to have three children of her own, who in turn made Cecil a proud great-grandfather of six. The marriage didn’t last, and he later went on to marry his second wife, “a beautiful English lady”, Mary Carter, who he met while she was on holiday in Malta, and who he travelled the world with. 039

GUIDEME M E E T T H E LO C A L S

labelled VHS tapes, CDs and DVDs. Every corner of the room houses a vintage piece of equipment, while his desk is overwhelmed with monitors, sound mixers and remote controls. Despite his extensive collection of works and accolades, however, Cecil’s favourite films are of his grandchildren’s birthday parties. “I used to love editing and adding music to them, which is why I’ve spent many hours in this room, and probably why my eyesight has become quite poor.” Nowadays, Cecil enjoys catching up with friends every time he visits the Union Club in Sliema. “On Mondays I play darts, and on Wednesdays and Fridays I play petanque (bocce). Metal bocce, not the wooden kind,” he quips. “Although I don’t see very well, my friends insist that I keep playing.” Activities aren’t the only engagements keeping Cecil on his toes – he’s also looking forward to his next big birthday party. After losing his second wife to cancer, Cecil met his “lady friend”, whose husband had died of a heart attack the same year. The two met at a party 21 years ago and hit it off, and, since then, have travelled and continued making memories together. In fact, travel has been a central part of Cecil’s life. He embarked on multiple 90-day around the world cruises, always with a camera and video camera in hand. “I’ve been practically everywhere, and on a cruise, you get to see many places. One of the best experiences was cruising through the Panama Canal”, a man-made waterway in Panama that connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. “One of the ships I was on only had around one foot on either side of the canal. It’s such an engineering feat! Many people perished to build it, but it’s out of this world.” Wherever he went, Cecil carried recording equipment, a life-long passion of his that began during his college days, when he developed photographic films in the darkroom. “Over time, cameras got more advanced and I changed them often. It’s an expensive hobby, but I loved it.” Cecil was a member of the Malta Cine Circle, a local film-making club, and often participated in local and international competitions. “I had a one-minute film, Neptune’s Bounty, that I had won first prize for. Other times, it was too difficult to stick to just one minute!” Cecil’s office speaks volumes about his love for photography and film – tall wall units are crammed with

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“I would love to live to 100, because when I had my 90th birthday party, I told everyone they’re invited to my 100th, if they’re still around!” he says, with that infectious sense of humour. “I love throwing parties, and I love my friends too. They’re good to me, and you have to reciprocate.” GM

I would love to live to 100, because when I had my 90th birthday party, I told everyone they’re invited to my 100th, if they’re still around!

FOOD & DRINK

THE ART OF SHARING

Welcome to HAMMETT’S MACINA RESTAURANT, the first and only restaurant in the Three Cities to make it onto the Michelin Guide 2020.

ammett’s Macina Restaurant, set on the ground floor of the luxurious boutique hotel Cugo Gran Macina Grand Harbour in Senglea, just announced the launch of its new menu, a sharing dining experience, created by 24-time award winning chef and restaurateur, Chris Hammett and new head chef, Jorge Lugo. This Mediterranean restaurant, Hammett’s Macina Restaurant, is transforming the way fine dining is done. With a personality as colourful as his food, Jorge Lugo joined Hammett’s Collection after working with Chris Hammett at The Villa seven years ago. Following a roaring success as head chef of Hammett’s Gastro Bar in Sliema, Chef Lugo was ready to expand and take on a new challenge. Upon his arrival in the trendy Hammett’s Macina kitchen, the Venezuelan chef immediately set about creating a menu with a colourful array of food. The menu stays true to himself with a sole goal: the enjoyment of food. By creating a shared meal format, the Hammett’s Collection team wants people to lend themselves to closeness and

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camaraderie. The idea is that one doesn’t just eat for sustenance but also to grow, to experience, to celebrate and to reconnect with family and friends. The gastronomical concept stays the same, drawing on Maltese history. It is a take on the islands’ succession of powers with a modern representation of traditional Mediterranean culinary influences from the Phoenician times, to the Knights of the Order of St John, until today. “Unimaginable history seeps from the Macina’s ancient walls. Built almost half a millennium ago by the Knights

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of Saint John, the Macina has been a landmark for centuries. It was just an obvious decision for me to mirror that history in our food by inspiring ourselves from the rich culture and past of our precious island,” says Chris Hammett. “Maltese cuisine has so many influences from the Middle East, Spain, North Africa, Greece, Italy and others, and we wanted our menu to reflect this and tell our island’s history to locals and visitors. Sourcing local and inspired by local.”

times, to the traditional Maltese Regatta races and even Valletta’s Strada Stretta (Strait Street), the nightlife hub for American and British military men between the 19th and mid-20th centuries. Whether you’re after a fine glass of wine accompanied by a few dishes to eat or a full-blown sharing dinner experience, Hammett’s Macina Restaurant is a must-visit and a treat for the senses. The sharing concept ends the eternal dilemma for food lovers of which dish to choose, also meaning that not only is there something for everyone, but that everyone around the table gets a taste! GM

To accompany the historical menu, a new wine list was created reflecting the same concept, showcasing wines sourced exclusively from Mediterranean coastal regions, which is also unique on the island. If you’re not in the mood for wine, a cocktail menu has been crafted inspired by Maltese landmarks, from the Gozitan salt pans dating back to the Phoenicians and Roman

Hammett’s Macina Restaurant is open every day for breakfast, lunch, happy hour (2 for 1 from 5 to 7pm daily) and dinner. www.hammettsmacina.com

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FOOD & DRINK

ALL ABOUT STREET FOOD

he buzzing, urban town of St Julian’s has a new star in its midst – an eatery that focuses on street food from across the globe, appealing to the traveller and wanderer in all of us.

Inspired by the Maltese translation of the word ‘nomad’, Madù’s team says that, here, “it’s all about street food fusion”, where different countries and cultures meet and come together through food. “A nomad is a person who travels the world and experiences diverse cultures, including the food, of the places they visit,” – and they can get it all in one place at Madù.

Travel the world through your taste buds at the new eatery MADÙ, which promises patrons a culinary journey of the best street food from all corners of the world.

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The menu at Madù is a journey, and every dish takes you to a distant place and opens up a world of sights, sounds and flavours. Every creation on the menu is a fusion of exciting influences from across the globe: you’ll find South American cuisine enhanced by crispy Asian textures; Mediterranean dishes coloured by the warmth of African joy; vegan and vegetarian options, as well as thrilling cocktails and energising smoothies. Better still, this eatery is open all day long, so you could get your breakfast, lunch, snack or dinner fix whatever time you please. “Our menu starts off with a healthy breakfast selection which can be enjoyed during a breakfast meeting or during a peaceful and relaxing time at the start of your day,” the team says. Dig into a plate of classic, Florentine or royale eggs benedict, served with smoked salmon and spinach.

Adding to the nomadic vibe at Madù is its ambience – it adapts to its guests and offers a refuge for whatever experience they’re looking for. “The restaurant is modern and chic, yet cosy and welcoming. During the day, guests can enjoy a drink and some nibbles while working on their laptop or indulging in a book – we have some great working spaces! In the evenings, Madù transforms into a cool place for a drink and offers a great opportunity to share dishes with your guests. At Madù, it’s all about sharing and mingling.”

The varied breakfast menu includes a mouth-watering selection of toasts and omelettes, as well as hearty breakfast plates, such as the classic English breakfast, which includes all your favourite sinful foods in one dish. Those with a sweet tooth can pore over the pancake selection or, opt for an altogether healthy start to the day with a fruit cup or granola cup.

The concept of Madù is brought to life by the expert hand and mind of chef Justin Schieda, whose culinary journey has taken him across pretty much any imaginable role in the kitchen – from assistant-pizzaiolo at 16 years of age, to building his chops as a Stagiaire at the two-Michelin star restaurant Ledbury in London, and eventually heading prestigious kitchens locally.

“Throughout the rest of the day, the menu offers typical street food from around the world, as well as fused dishes. One of our most popular dishes, enjoyed with drinks, is the halloumi fries with harissa yoghurt. For a light lunch, our quinoa and peanut salad has proven to be a must-have, while for dinner, the beef brisket and chicken chow mein are the stars of the show.”

Through his journeys, Justin has gathered a wealth of knowledge, insight and experiences, and is channelling it all through the unique concept of Madù. “Every three months, chef Justin will be tweaking the menu to feature new and different types of street food, offering new and exciting dishes to guests. The next dish to be featured will be pork ribs covered in our home-made Laphroig BBQ sauce.”

Foodies are truly in for a treat at Madù and going there hungry is highly recommended. Nibble on onion bhajis or calamari fritti, savour a healthy bowl of chicken souvlaki or a salmon poke bowl, consider a nostalgic Maltese ftira (flat bread) or vegan sabich for a snack, or travel to Japan with the pork ramen bowl or to the USA with a delectable serving of truffle mac and cheese.

Better still, every dish at this eatery is prepared with a strong sensibility towards the planet, in its mission to help eliminate single-use plastics and maintain a sustainable environment. “At Madù, you get to choose your journey with every visit.” Where will your first stop be? GM Number 11 Urban Hotel, Schreiber Street, St Julian’s. M: 7900 6679, E: info@madu.com.mt, www.madu.com.mt or follow Madu’s Facebook and Instagram pages.

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FOOD & DRINK

DIAR IL-BNIET SOLDIERS ON By Moyra Sammut

he last few weeks have been tough on our little island with the COVID-19 crisis! But Malta has been through far worse than this, and the tiny island with a big heart reflects the grit and soul of the little village of Dingli, where at Diar Il-Bniet, we have soldiered on working our fields. We have been busy growing all sorts of produce, from Jerusalem artichokes to our fabulously tender and delicious kohl rabi to bring to our tables, and that’s all thanks to farmer Mario who works tirelessly to tend to his fields with the utmost passion and dedication! The Diar Il-Bniet farm-to-table concept started some six years ago from humble beginnings, when sisterand-brother duo Dorianne and Darren Mifsud decided to open a simple shop selling Maltese home-made products. Today, it has grown into a fully-fledged restaurant with a superb farm shop stocking amazing organic and agri-products, all made with the produce from their fields. From quince jam to olive tapenades, the range is phenomenal. The team is currently also busy nurturing the beautiful and juicy strawberry beds, which produce prolific red gems – the best on the island, may we add – which are now on display in the restaurant at Diar Il-Bniet; dipped in chocolate, as a decadent parfait, a super delicious

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St Augustine’s Chapel, and the hidden gem of a water spring where, in olden times, the village women would gather for a gossip whilst washing their laundry the oldfashioned way: with much scrubbing and slapping.

cheesecake, and, last but not least, an absolutely to-diefor almond and strawberry tart. But that’s not all we’re serving. For the Easter weekend only, we have an amazing Maundy Thursday celebration menu with mouth-watering dishes including an array of Middle Eastern-style starters like houmous, baba ghanoush, garlic flavoured olives, stuffed ħubbejża (cornish mallow) leaves and unleavened flat bread. If this isn’t enough, we have equally sumptuous main courses to choose from, including tender roasted lamb shanks in red wine jus, salt cod stew, grilled tuna steak, and a delicious mixed bean stew, all served with lots of lovely side dishes.

The village parish, Santa Marija Assunta church, also merits a visit as it has its own claim to history. Before Ħad Dingli was born, Ħal-Tartarni was one of the 10 parishes mentioned by Senator Mello in 1436, but the parish was later suppressed when the village was abandoned by its inhabitants. A new village, Ħad-Dingli, arose in the vicinity of Ħal-Tartarni, and this village became a parish in 1615. While the parish of Ħad-Dingli was also suppressed illegally, it was re-established by the bishop in 1678. The present church was built in 1903 on the site of the 1678 church.

There is nothing more satisfying than a good meal and that is what we promise you from our restaurant, Diar Il-Bniet. We are also celebrating Good Friday and Easter Sunday in style – booking is recommended, and menus are up on our website.

The local history does not stop there; one of the WWII radars was also situated on Dingli Cliffs. Today, there is the ‘golf ball’ radar in its place. Whilst exploring the cliffs, you will encounter some of Malta’s most amazing flora and fauna, as well as stupendous views worthy of a photo or two. So, as you can see, a visit to Dingli is well worth it, the picturesque village quietly nestled on the periphery of Il-Buqana and Diar-Il Bniet valley. GM

Come May, the countryside is buzzing and alive with pretty flowers, fruit pushing forth from buds and summer vegetables being planted in preparation for a very busy season indeed. Among all this we celebrate Mother’s Day, making sure we pamper a well-deserved mum for a day.

121, Triq il- Kbira, Ħad-Dingli. T: 2762 0727; E: info@diarilbniet.com; www.diarilbniet.com

And while here on our glorious little island, you can also enjoy visiting some lovely historic monuments like

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FOOD & DRINK

Find the perfect place to wine and dine on the islands with our handy restaurant guide.

La Sorpresa La Sorpresa is a family-run restaurant and pizzeria where customers are welcomed like friends and family. Colin and Doreen pride themselves on making consistent, high-quality food and service a priority. La Sorpresa restaurant offers both a Mediterranean-based à la carte menu, as well as a variety of set menus designed to suit every guest’s preferences. Our à la carte menu includes pasta dishes, mouth-watering steaks and other carvery dishes, fresh local fish, home-made pizzas, traditional Maltese dishes and other special dishes which change frequently. Our little guests have their own kids menu and gluten-free options are also available. Open Monday to Saturday 6-11pm; Sunday 11.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. La Sorpresa, Tourists Street, Buġibba. Contact Nicholas Farrugia on T: 2157 7301; M: 7925 4324.

Luna – The Restaurant at Palazzo Parisio The Luna Restaurant combines a variety of culinary concepts set in one of Malta’s finest privatelyowned stately homes. Every corner assures you luxury, grace, elegance and a taste of history by the mouthful, offering breakfast, snacks, lunch, traditional English afternoon tea or dinner. Choose between the sublime interiors and the beautifully shaded tables on the garden terrace basking beside fragrant orange blossom and flamboyant bougainvillea. Luna, in all its forms, offers relaxation and understated luxury in an incredible and refined ambience. Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea: Monday-Sunday 9am-6.30pm. Also open for dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. 29, Victory Square, Naxxar. Book your table on T: 2141 2461 Ext 2; E: fb@palazzoparisio.com; www.palazzoparisio.com

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Palazzo Preca Restaurant Palazzo Preca Restaurant is repeatedly awarded as one of the best restaurants in Malta and Gozo. It is situated in one of the bestknown historic streets in Valletta, within a beautiful 16th-century palazzo in Strait Street. An extensive and creative menu provides mouthwatering choices of food and fine local and foreign wines – and do not miss our delicious home-made desserts! Professional, dedicated and attentive staff will ensure that your visit is a completely enjoyable experience. Wednesday is our special night when the lights are turned off and the restaurant is entirely lit by candles, creating an intimate and romantic ambience. Open Tuesday to Saturday 12.30-3pm; 6.30-10.30pm. Open Sunday lunch and closed Sunday evenings. Bookings are recommended and are to be confirmed by phone. Palazzo Preca, 54, Strait Street, Valletta. T: 2122 6777; M: 9986 6640; www.palazzoprecarestaurant.com

GUIDEME FOOD & DRINK

Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro

Ta’ Marija Restaurant – Est. 1964

Right in the heart of Sliema lies Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro, serving wholesome home cooking at unbeatable prices. Chef patron Chris uses the freshest ingredients to create tasty Maltese dishes like Dad’s famous braġjoli (beef olives), thick beef stew, veal escalopes and rabbit, and for those with a sweet tooth, the deliciously crunchy imqaret – a must-try date-filled pastry. Patrons are also spoilt for choice with the daily specials ranging from fresh fish to beef fillet and various pasta dishes. Everything at this price-worthy restaurant is served in the unique setting of a former bakery. Ta’ Kris is one of the best-rated restaurants by the Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants. Booking is recommended. Set menus for special occasions can also be arranged upon request.

Awarded ‘Best Maltese Food Restaurant’ for 10 years, Ta’ Marija don’t just serve Maltese cuisine, but create dishes with what is local and traditional, while adding their own signature flavours and sumptuousness. Head to their Folklore Dinner shows every Wednesday and Friday evening for a touch of Maltese liveliness. Enjoy your dinner as musicians play mandolins and guitars, and singers belt out Maltese songs throughout the evening. After your delicious dinner, the folklore show featuring six dancers will lure you into a jovial story of Maltese history told through dance. Ta’ Marija is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Transport can also be arranged.

Open Monday to Sunday 12.30-11pm.

Ta’ Victor Authentic Maltese food located in the heart of Marsaxlokk, it’s easy to spot Ta’ Victor in the main square of this fishing village, right in front of the local parish church. Well renowned among locals for authentic and seasonal Maltese dishes, Ta’ Victor is also widely known for its Maltese hospitality, warmth and friendliness. The chef and owner, Victor, has even been asked to represent Malta overseas with his traditional dishes! Choose from a mouth-watering menu that includes a variety of local seasonal fish, as well as the traditional dishes of beef olives and rabbit. 36, Madonna Ta’ Pompei Square, Marsaxlokk. M: 9947 4249.

Constitution Street, Mosta. T: 2143 4444; E: info@tamarija.com.mt; www.tamarija.com.mt

Ta’ Kris, 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema. T: 2133 7367; M: 7933 7367; www.takrisrestaurant.com

Terrone Terrone is a restaurant in the charming fishing village of Marsaxlokk that combines rustic charm with contemporary, regional cuisine. Focusing on southern Italian and local Maltese cuisines, and hand-picking the best local and organic produce, we aim to recreate a healthy and enjoyable way of dining. We are open every day for lunch and dinner, as well as brunch on Saturdays. The restaurant is situated on the Marsaxlokk seafront. Open Sunday to Friday noon-10pm; Saturday 10am-11pm. Terrone, 1, Wilġa Street, Marsaxlokk. T: 2704 2656; E: info@terrone.com.mt; www.terrone.com.mt FB: terronemt; Instagram: terronemalta 050

I N V E S T I N G I N M A LTA G U I D E

INTERESTED IN

INVESTING IN

MALTA ? R EAD O N

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GUIDEME I N V E S T I N G I N M A LTA G U I D E

WELCOME TO MALTA – YOUR NEW HOME

hroughout history, Malta has welcomed people from all four corners of the globe and all walks of life, who have made this tiny country in the Mediterranean their new home. In the 21st century, it is a trans-continental hub for trade, a popular tourism destination and an overperformer when it comes to hi-tech industries such as iGaming and FinTech. Over the past two decades, an influx of expats has made the social and economic landscape truly exciting, diverse and cosmopolitan – could you be the next to join? Whether you’re searching for a fresh start in life or simply looking to grow your business, Malta could be the stepping-stone you’ve been waiting for. But before you pack up your bags and head to the airport, here are some things you need to know.

SOCIAL SECURITY AND ID NUMBER

Applying for a Maltese social security number is an essential part of becoming a working resident in Malta and brings you one step closer to applying for a residence card. The resident ID card is extremely important and simplifies a lot of your day-to-day life in Malta. To apply for a residence card, you’ll first need to have your employment status confirmed by Jobsplus. Next you will need to visit Evans Building in Valletta where you can apply for your residence card. To apply for your residence card, you will need Form A and Form ID1A, as well as an original and copy of your passport, your work contract, your Jobsplus employment certificate, and your Maltese tenancy agreement.

FINDING A JOB

Unemployment in Malta is extraordinarily low, and most large companies have vacancies begging to be filled. iGaming, hospitality and financial services are among the industries with the largest number of job opportunities across different skill levels. You’ll need a job contract before you get a residence card and set up a bank account. If you’re a non-EU citizen, you’ll need to apply for a residence/work permit at the Citizenship Office within Identity Malta.

SETTING UP A BANK ACCOUNT

Setting up a bank account becomes a lot easier once you’ve received your residency card. Most banks will require your ID, a letter of reference from a bank or your employer, and a minimum deposit into your account to set it up.

ABOUT MALTA Population:

493,559 Area:

316 sqm Currency

Real GDP Growth

HEALTHCARE

5.4 per cent

Healthcare in Malta is free to all citizens and registered working residents so once you have your Social Security Number and your residence card you can visit healthcare centres free of charge. If you prefer private healthcare services, health insurance in Malta is relatively inexpensive.

(projected figure for the whole of 2019)

Unemployment rate

3.4 per cent

Euro

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GUIDEME I N V E S T I N G I N M A LTA G U I D E

THE MINIMUM SHARE 3. DEPOSITING CAPITAL

Every company needs some capital to start off, however small. As a new business owner, you need to open a bank account in the company’s name and inform the bank teller that you are depositing your share capital. The money will go into a holding account until the company is properly registered. The receipt issued will need to be presented in the next stage.

ALL ABOUT SETTING UP A BUSINESS IN MALTA With a well-established regulatory environment based on EU law, a favourable tax regime, attractive government incentives, and a well-educated and highly motivated workforce, Malta can be a very attractive place for a foreigner to set up a business. Additionally, Malta has developed several business relationships with not just European countries and fellow EU member state countries, but also with African and Middle Eastern countries and markets. Interested to start a business in Malta? Here are seven stages to keep in mind.

DOCUMENTATION TO 4. PRESENTING THE MALTA BUSINESS REGISTRY

The filled-in company registration form, together with the memorandum and articles of association and the share capital deposit slip need to be presented to the Malta Business Registry. Registration is done within two to three days and the registration fee depends on the size of the company.

LICENCES AND A TAX 5. OBTAINING IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

Once the trade name is approved and the memorandum and articles of association are filed with the Registry, the company is almost ready to start operating. However, before that one must also check if any special licences are required. Furthermore, each business in Malta has to have a tax identification number. While this is free, once a year you will need to fill in a tax return form. This is another step where the assistance of a trusted accountant, audit or legal firm is invaluable.

DECIDING BETWEEN SELFEMPLOYMENT AND SETTING UP A LIMITED LIABILITY COMPANY

A limited liability company gives your business a more trusted face and protects you as a shareholder in case of defective products or lawsuits. On the other hand, there are more bureaucratic steps in creating such a company (as opposed to starting a business as a self-employed person), such as having an annual audit, so make sure your business is viable before registering it as LTD. You need to be at least two shareholders to register a company.

FOR REGISTRATION 2. PREPARING If you are going to proceed with a limited liability

company, then you need to draft the memorandum and articles of association. These documents are important for registration, but they also detail what the company, its shareholders and its directors can and cannot do. It’s very important to identify the right legal firm, accountancy and audit firm, as well as business consultants to guide you during this stage.

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A VAT NUMBER AND PE 6. GETTING NUMBER

You also need to register with the VAT Department in order to obtain a VAT number. Furthermore, if you have a limited liability company and you intend on hiring personnel, you also need to register as an employer and obtain a PE number. Both of these steps are free of charge and can be done online.

REGISTERING WITH JOBSPLUS

Jobsplus is responsible for all employment registration in Malta. You need to fill in a form for each employee upon registration and again upon termination of each employee. The process is quick and free of charge. Government department Business First can help you with all of these steps, and can be easily reached through their website – www.businessfirst.com.mt or over email.

GUIDEME I N V E S T I N G I N M A LTA G U I D E

PLANNING CORPORATE EVENTS & CONFERENCES While it’s only (relatively) recently that Malta solidified its status as a hub for various economic sectors, namely financial services, iGaming and technology, the island has been a central meeting place in the Mediterranean for far longer, and for all kinds of historic and monumental events. Fast forward to recent times, and Malta has also sealed its reputation for hosting world-class corporate events and conferences. Throughout the year, local and international sector-specific events of all sizes are held at various venues across the islands – here’s what to look out for if you’re looking to host one.

FIND A PLANNER

If you’re too busy setting up your business here to also concern yourself with planning an event, there are plenty of professional planning companies and individuals who can assist. From sourcing the right venue to the best suppliers to suit your tastes and needs, using a skilled and specialised planner will ensure a successful event from start to finish.

RIGHT LOCATION 4. THE In fact, your choice of location might help you narrow

your search of venue. If it’s heritage and history that you’re after, consider a location in the capital, Valletta, or in any of the Three Cities. If you’re seeking a venue with an urban and modern edge, the town of St Julian’s in the centre of the island has plenty to offer. By contrast, venues located in the north of Malta and the sister island, Gozo, are likelier to offer set-ups in quieter and calmer surroundings.

THE BRIEF 5. ADAPTING Local individuals and businesses are immensely good

at adapting to different requirements, and if you’ve got your mind set on something or somewhere specific which might not appear to offer the kind of services you’re after, there’s a good chance a set-up can be tailored and adapted to accommodate your vision.

THE RIGHT ONE 2. PICKING Unless you already know of a planning

company you can depend on to handle your event, ask around for assistance and reputable names. In Malta, people trust word-of-mouth advice backed up by good research – it’s a time-tested method that has reaped results for many business owners, and it’s also a good way to network and mingle with locals hailing from different professional backgrounds.

KIND OF VENUE 3. EVERY A problem you definitely won’t encounter

in your quest to host an event or conference here is finding the right venue. From palazzos and grand villas to historic sites, well-equipped hotel halls and state-of-the-art venues specifically dedicated to hosting such events, there’s a venue available for any kind and size of occasion.

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GUIDEME I N V E S T I N G I N M A LTA G U I D E

FINDING THE RIGHT PROPERTY

WHERE SHOULD I LIVE? Malta is a tiny island so it’s easy to believe that it doesn’t matter where you live, since everything is so easily within reach. But slow-moving traffic during peak hours, reliance on private cars, and huge differences between one area of the island and another make it necessary to think deeply about what you want from your new hometown. Here’s a guideline of what to expect from different parts of Malta.

Once you’ve decided to move to Malta, you’ll set about finding the perfect property for you and your family, or the new headquarters for your business. But what will that involve?

Sliema and St Julian’s The natural choice for most expats. These two towns have a large expat community, an exciting social life, and close proximity to many businesses and places of work. However, they’re the most expensive addresses in Malta, and if you’re looking for a quiet place to settle down, they’re probably not it.

• The cost of living in Malta remains lower than most European countries, but rent has become more expensive in recent years. You can expect to pay at least €800 for a flat in a central part of the island, and far more if it’s in one of the more in-demand locations such as Sliema or St Julian’s. Office or commercial spaces have seen less of a spike in prices, but as with homes, this is largely dependent on location.

Central towns such as Birkirkara, Attard and Mosta These areas are located in the middle of the island and have good transport links to most other towns and villages. While being mostly residential, the central towns of Malta are well served by amenities and are perfect for raising a family.

• Most people start their search through a property agency, of which you’ll find many on the island. Here you can sort through different kinds of properties, locations and price ranges, and get in touch with the agency to arrange for a visit. However, it’s worth noting that many properties are listed with several estate agents, so you may end up viewing the same property several times if you’re not careful.

Buġibba and Mellieħa Plenty of expats – particularly from the UK – live in these towns. Since both of them can be considered resort towns, it’s worth noting that they get particularly hectic in summer with the influx of tourists but are extremely quiet throughout the rest of the year.

• Once you’ve viewed a few different properties, settled on one that you want to buy, and your offer has been accepted, you will be asked to sign a promise of sale, known in Maltese as a konvenju. This is a legally binding agreement between you and the seller, and will involve a notary public.

Southern areas such as Marsaxlokk, Marsascala and the Three Cities The southern part of the island is worth considering if you’d like to be close to the sea, live in a charming traditional village or town, and don’t want to pay through the nose. However, fewer expats tend to live here, so if you’re in search of a community of fellow emigres, this may not be for you. Having your own transport becomes essential in this case and learning at least a few words and phrases in Maltese will endear you to the local community.

• At this point you are obliged to pay 1 per cent of the 5 per cent provisional stamp duty. The total sum is payable upon completion of the sale. You will also need to pay a deposit which is usually around 10 per cent of the agreed sale price. • You don’t need a permit to buy a house here unless it’s a secondary residence. But if you are not a citizen of an EU country then you will need an Acquisition of Immovable Property in Malta by Non-Residents Permit (AIP).

Gozo Quiet, peaceful and with plenty of green spaces which Malta is sorely missing, the island of Gozo is accessible via a ferry that leaves Ċirkewwa every 45 minutes. Since the commute may be off-putting, it’s perfect for retirees as well as people who are planning to work from home. A permanent link, via a tunnel for passenger cars is, however, in the pipeline, so if you are planning on a longterm stay and wish for a quieter and more rural setting, Gozo could be the right choice.

• You must also obtain a permit if you are considering renting your property as a holiday home and any earnings must be declared to the authorities for tax purposes.

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GUIDEME I N V E S T I N G I N M A LTA G U I D E

THE RIGHT RECRUITMENT STRATEGY Now that you’ve set up your business in Malta and found the right property, the next stage is hiring people. With unemployment being so low, and a comparatively small talent pool to select from, finding the right people can be a challenge. Here are a few things to keep in mind during the quest for your star candidates.

KNOWING WHAT YOU NEED

You need to fully understand the role you are hiring for, allowing you to quickly determine who has the experience required to successfully fulfil the role.

THE JOB 2. PREPARING DESCRIPTION AND PERSON

SPECIFICATION

They will be one of the first things potential candidates read when they find your job vacancy. Include the key responsibilities that the role will involve and try to give candidates a feel of who they’d be working with and what is expected of them.

SPECIALIST 3. SEEKING SUPPORT

If you are already struggling to fit everything in during the process of recruitment, you might want to consider outsourcing to a recruitment agency, of which Malta also has several to choose from with a proven track record for making great matches. 058

INTERVIEWS 4. CONDUCTING At the interview stage, the most

important points to cover include CV or application highlights, and of course, key requisites for the role.

REFERENCES, 5. CHECKING DRAWING UP A CONTRACT

AND OFFERING THE JOB

Once you have shortlisted your top candidates it’s time to check their references. It’s essential to check your candidate’s background – hiring the wrong person can be extremely damaging to the company, as well as a huge waste of money.

THE NEWEST 6. WELCOME MEMBER OF THE TEAM

It’s never fun being the new person, but as long as your company is friendly, welcoming and patient, you’ll make a good impression early on, and quickly gain your new employee’s loyalty. GM

FOOD & DRINK

WELCOME TO THE BRASS BAR

InterContinental Malta in St Julian’s is welcoming guests to its stunning new outlet: The Brass Bar. The bar’s team at InterContinental Malta is continuously seeking ways to push boundaries and challenge the beverage culture status quo locally. The hotel’s latest venture is the opening of The Brass Bar, found in the lobby area. Upon entering the bar area, prepare to be awestruck by the jaw-dropping bar backdrop stocked with priceless bottles of the finest spirits, all tended to

by the award-winning bar team, which has crafted a menu that includes a wide selection of hot chocolates, coffees and classic cocktails with a unique and classy twist. Food and Beverage Manager at InterContinental Malta, Rodney Pisani, says “we are excited to have launched our new outlet at InterContinental Malta. We didn’t want to simply open a new lobby bar, but we wanted to elevate it to an experience. We invite all to come, try and enjoy.” GM For more information visit www.malta.intercontinental.com

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WELLNESS

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BREAKING THE WELLNESS MOULD The mission to reduce stress and improve wellbeing has long characterised our highly urbanised lives. Yet, our daily stressors and health concerns have never felt more palpable. Guide Me speaks to SUSANNE FISCH, Director of the ATHENAEUM SPA, which will be reopening its doors soon at the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa in Attard, about the secret behind conquering wellness.

ur goal is to live a long and happy life. To get there, we have scrutinised blogs, skimmed social media and succumbed to clickbait. Life has morphed into a mad search for well-being, which – ironically – is stressful. Asked for her thoughts on the latest trends in wellness, Susanne Fisch takes a long breath. She came to Malta after years in hospitality, most recently in the Maldives. And wherever she goes in the world, she hears this question time and again.

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GUIDEME WELLNESS

“Thinking of wellness as the goal rather than the journey is harmful,” Susanne explains. “Wellness is a concept and a journey; well-being is that yearned-for state. I’m very cautious about wellness trends. This is a multi-billion dollar industry, so we shouldn’t just take advice at face value.” “Trends, especially those spread on social media, put pressure on people, causing undue stress. The illusionary, Instagrammable lifestyle is paradoxically a trigger for anxiety. Your phone accelerates your life, leaving you struggling to keep up.” That said, tech has certainly become all the rage in fitness and well-being. We count our steps, track calories and outsource remembering to hydrate to notifications. But Susanne does not think this is necessarily negative. “I don’t dislike health-related apps,” she continues, “but it depends on the person. These apps are modern renditions of traditional approaches to health and well-being. Meditation apps, for instance, provide guidance in connecting with your breath and inner self, which is beneficial for your nervous system, sleep and balance.” “But, can earphones really replace physicality when seeking introspection

and detachment from stress? I think not. For some, this means sitting with their eyes closed, for others it’s being out in nature, scuba diving or cooking. Whatever it is, this is your journey of personal discovery that brings your heart, mind and body into alignment.” This personalised journey is what visitors to the new Athenaeum Spa can expect. Set in a Mediterranean garden of aromatic herbs and lemon trees, the spa re-opens in April 2020. When it started out over 50 years ago, the spa broke the mould with its natural and holistic therapies and ethos. The new spa continues in this tradition while meeting the specific needs of today. “We’ve created a multi-sensory experience that nourishes your body and soul,” says Susanne. “Our lives have become all about performance and achievement, even in our search for well-being. We want you to switch off – no texts, emails or calls. Here, you’re detoxing from emotions and stress.” “Mental health is our focus – both for our clients and our team. We start every morning by grounding ourselves through meditation as a team. In this regard, I see practising sustainability – in terms of lifestyle and the environment – as crucial. It’s 064

a challenge both personally and as a spa. Surround yourself with people and companies that positively influence your state of being, so that you can reciprocate that good impact.” The refurbished spa is a local pioneer in using cruelty-free, biodegradable products, moving away from plastic and opting for special linen that requires less water to be washed. It also sources whatever it can locally. The idea is that these small steps will transform into great strides along the spa’s own journey of sustainability and well-being. “I recommend considering the difference between vision and expectation. When you have a vision, the journey is fluid and even tiny steps are valuable. But when you set expectations, you miss the journey. Well-being is not the same for everybody. Adopt advice that works for you, test little steps and you’ll discover your own sustainable path.” GM The highly anticipated reimagined luxury Athenaeum Spa will open its doors soon. Follow @athenaeumspamt on Instagram or visit www.corinthia. com/palace-hotel-and-spa to discover the latest news.

FASHION

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS While still in its relative infancy, the fashion scene on the Maltese islands is going from strength to strength, with young creatives making a mark in various areas of the industry. Ahead of Malta Fashion Week this May, SARAH MICALLEF catches up with three up-and-coming designers who will be participating in MFWA 2020, to find out about their work, their thoughts on the local scene and what we can expect come May.

Photos: Kurt Paris

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RITIENNE ZAMMIT Daring young designer Ritienne Zammit is already no new face to the local fashion scene, having launched her eponymous brand in 2011. Taking part in Malta Fashion Week for the first time in 2013, she made her mark right away, taking home Best New Designer at the Malta Fashion Awards that same year.

dmitting that creativity was always a path she wanted to follow, Ritienne affirms that since the initial recognition in 2013, she’s never looked back. And her island home features prominently in her work. “The brand I created expresses emotion, tradition, patriotism and appreciation towards the Maltese culture. It also focuses on textile design and customised fabric printing,” Ritienne explains, describing the looks she creates as contemporary and current. Speaking of her current collection, the designer refers to it as “an expression of love, strong emotions and also the fanatic reverance shown towards the patron saint of the respective villages” – in short, it is representative of the local festa tradition. “It is one of Malta’s strongest traditions and defines the Maltese identity,” she says, albeit not revealing too much about what she has in store for this year’s MFWA, hinting at “interesting concepts exploited with a modern approach.” Being no stranger to Malta Fashion Week, Ritienne describes the experience as thrilling, adding that she always looks

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forward “to showing my creativity to the local fashion scene” as well as “the appreciation towards my work from the general public.” Speaking of the local scene, I ask for her thoughts about it. “I believe it’s developing at a very fast rate,” Ritienne maintains, affirming that the public is supporting local designers more than ever before. “The public is interested to dig deep and understand the concept and the story behind each and every piece made.” As for local fashion designers she looks up to, she points to Joseph Grima, also known as Il-Mugi. “When I was young, I remember admiring him a lot. His clothes were so creative but still very wearable.”

GUIDEME FA S H I O N

MARCO PARASCANDALO Born and bred in the area known as the Three Cities, edgy young designer Marco Parascandalo grew up with a love for art, going on to work in retail for a number of years after completing an MCAST Art and Design course. This led him to explore the fashion capital that is London, where he worked in the fashion industry for four years before returning to Malta to set up his own business, PARASCANDALO, in 2014.

Photos supplied by Parascandolo

“

Fashion was always important to me, and I always aspired to be in this industry. My mum used to own a clothes shop in Birgu, and from a very young age I would help her there,” says Marco, admitting that since then, he’s experienced a number of notable milestones in his career, including working full-time on PARASCANDALO and setting up shop at The Mad Tatter in Żabbar, and more recently, having been chosen to open a boutique on the international fashion online brand ASOS, under their marketplace section. Speaking of the brand’s current collection, Marco points out that while his EYECONIC fall/winter collection, which launched in May 2019, is currently in store and online, it won’t be long before the new spring/ summer 2020 collection SALVAGED BEGINNINGS, which was launched at a solo

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GUIDEME FA S H I O N

show in November 2019, will hit the shelves. And now, work is well underway for the next big thing: his new collection, which will be released at Malta Fashion Week 2020. “I would like to keep the source of inspiration a surprise for now,” he teases. 2020 will be Marco’s seventh year participating at Malta Fashion Week, though the experience is no less exciting. “It is a very hectic period, but a pleasant one too. I feel like I live for that day – the 069

day I get to showcase the thoughts and creativity I have been dreaming of for six months,” he reveals. Speaking of the local fashion scene, Marco maintains that it has progressed a lot, particularly thanks to social media, and his favourite designers are arguably Malta’s most popular fashion duo: “Charles & Ron are not only dear friends of mine, but also a twosome I look up to.”

GUIDEME FA S H I O N

EVER SINCE

Danyl Azzopardi, the promising young designer behind local brand EVER SINCE, showcased his first collection at Malta Fashion Week last year to rave reviews. He’ll be back with his second this May.

“

Describing EVER SINCE as an exclusive streetwear brand, the designer maintains that every design has a meaning behind it. “It’s not just a clothing brand, it’s a vision for a better world. I want to inspire others to do what they love. I want to teach others that each and every one of us has the ability to manifest what they desire,” he comments.

Photos supplied by Ever Since

“I’ve loved art ever since I was a kid, and growing up, I also fell in love with luxury streetwear,” says Danyl, who created a vision for his own brand after conducting years of research into Hip Hop and streetwear culture, and different streetwear brands. “I thought, ‘why don’t I put my art and creativity on highly fashionable streetwear staples, which I can use as my canvas?” he says.

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And while his first collection last year saw him make his dream a reality, his newest collection is the next step in the brand’s journey, although he keeps schtum about what exactly it will entail. “I really love colours so, expect colourful pieces. I’m also experimenting with new fabric and of course, more streetwear,” the designer teases. “Last year was my first year showcasing a collection at MFWA and it was unforgettable. I loved it, enjoyed it, and it helped me get recognised and open new doors!” Directing his attention to the local scene, Danyl believes that there’s plenty of talent on the island, incorporating different designers, styles and visions. “I honestly love seeing other people doing what they’re

I want to teach others that each and every one of us has the ability to manifest what they desire.

passionate about, so if they love what they’re doing, that’s what matters the most to me,” he says, though is hard pressed to mention a favourite local designer. “I want to mention Charles & Ron, Ritienne Zammit and Parascandalo. I really love all three of them and appreciate their art and hard work, but they have three different styles so I can’t say who is favourite. They’re all great in their own ways.” GM

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SPRING INTO A NEW SEASON WITH CHARLES & RON

MEDITERRANEAN IDENTITY

“Malta has always been of enormous inspiration to our work, and throughout the years we have enjoyed designing from a Mediterranean perspective. For us, it’s important to incorporate aspects of culture, architecture and tradition, and show them in a different and unexpected way. We incorporated these references into our work from the beginning – they define us as a brand, and it’s important to embrace and appreciate your heritage.”

CELEBRITIES AND FEMININE SHAPES

“In the past years, we’ve had the pleasure to dress many international celebrities. Paula Abdul, Lauryn Hill, En Vogue, Jessie J, Kelly Rowland, Nathalie Emmanuel (Game of Thrones), singer Ashanti, Ally Brooke (Fifth Harmony) and Michelle Williams (Destiny’s Child). This is very satisfying for a designer, however, we take pride in designing for all women. The Charles & Ron woman does love statement pieces with a feminine silhouette and is never afraid to stand out in a crowd.”

THE IMPORTANCE OF ACCESSORIES

“Key items in our range are our Malta inspired luxury scarves and leather bags. Our handbags are made from the finest Italian leather and are handcrafted in Malta. By taking home one of our bags and/ or scarves, you will truly take home the spirit and beauty of the Maltese islands!”

MENSWEAR

Charles & Ron has also introduced menswear to its range with a stand-alone shop at Minus3, The Point Shopping Mall, Sliema. GM Charles & Ron, 58D, Republic Street, Valletta. T: 2124 0184. Minus3, The Point Shopping Mall, Sliema. Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, Attard. www.charlesandron.com

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CARAVAGGIO – ARTIST HONOURED AND KNIGHT DISGRACED By Cynthia de Giorgio, Curator, St John’s Co-Cathedral

Credit: Copyright The St John’s Co-Cathedral Foundation

orn in Milan in September 1571, the artist Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio, ranks among the most influential painters in the history of art. He combined a realistic observation of the human state, both physical and emotional, with a theatrical use of light that gave his works a dramatic character. He was rebellious by nature and led a turbulent life. In May 1606, whilst working successfully in Rome, one of his many brawls resulted in Caravaggio killing a man named Ranuccio Tomassoni during a duel. The Roman authorities reacted swiftly by issuing a ‘bando capitale’ against

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him. Fearing for his life, Caravaggio fled and headed for Naples, outside the Roman jurisdiction. After a successful period in Naples, where he was given a number of important church commissions, Caravaggio left for Malta. The island was the headquarters of the Knights of the Order of St John of Jerusalem. Caravaggio travelled to Malta and arrived on 12th July 1607 aboard a vessel of the Order. The Grand Master was aware of Caravaggio’s past, which should have impeded the artist from entering the Order. Caravaggio was soon accepted in the folds of the Order and on 14th July 1608, Grand Master

Alof de Wignacourt accepted him as a Knight of Obedience. However, the Grand Master had obtained unique papal permission to accept the artist within the Order. Whilst in Malta, Caravaggio painted ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’ and ‘St Jerome Writing’, both of which are preserved in St John’s Co-Cathedral. During his Maltese sojourn, Caravaggio also painted a picture depicting a ‘Sleeping Cupid’ and the ‘Portrait of a Knight of Malta’ (Fra Antonio Martelli), both exhibited today in The Pitti Palace, Florence. He also painted the ‘Portrait of Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt with a Page’, displayed in the Louvre, Paris. When Caravaggio stepped into the Oratory of St John’s Co-Cathedral, it looked nothing like it does today. It was bare and simple, bordering on the austere. In all probability, he was instructed towards the subject of the painting for the altarpiece. Martyrdom scenes were becoming instrumental for Counter Reformation art because they expressed the suffering of the particular martyr, intended to impress the worshipper and increase pious devotion. This was Caravaggio’s challenge. Let’s see how he did this. John’s execution takes place in a prison courtyard. Dragged out of his prison cell to be beheaded at the command of Herod to satisfy Salome’s wish, the executioner holds the saint’s head pressed against the floor. The lethal blow has already been struck with the sword. He now stands over John and grasps his hair to better reveal his neck whilst reaching for a small knife to finish off the job as instructed by the janitor. The young maid impassively holds out the basin to receive the head. The older maid clasps her head covering her ears to block out the sound of tearing flesh and crushing bone. Two prisoners look on intently contemplating their own fate. The actions are frozen in time. This is one of his most sensitive and yet unsympathetic interpretations of a man being brutally executed. There is no indication of redemption for the saint’s martyrdom. There are no halos or angels holding palm fronds for

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John, there is no divine intervention. It is the hopelessness of the event that makes this work poignantly a depiction of human tragedy. The absence of human emotion to such a brutal scene is telling of Caravaggio’s concern with the despair of man’s destiny – the purpose of human existence obviously haunted him. When Caravaggio finished painting the ‘Beheading of St John the Baptist’ it was the last painting he executed and possibly the last time he held a brush on the island. Painted as the altarpiece of the Oratory it was probably his passaggio, which was the gift a knight presented to the Order upon being admitted as a member. Since the signature ‘f[ra]’ indicates that he was already a knight, the canvas could have been completed soon after his investiture on 14th July 1608 and was most likely planned to be unveiled on 29th August – the feast of the martyrdom of St John. The newly painted ‘Beheading’ must have had an enormous impact on those entering the bare chamber. This period of relative calm in his life was short-lived, and by late August 1608, Caravaggio was in trouble once again, this time causing damage to the house of Fra Prospero Coppini, the organist of St John’s Church and wounded a Knight of Justice, Fra Giovanni Rodomonte Roero, Conte della Vezza. He was arrested and imprisoned in Fort St Angelo. Disgraced and unable to paint, Caravaggio did not wait for his trial but escaped from Malta. In a meeting of the Public Assembly held in the Oratory of St John’s Co-Cathedral on 1st December 1608, Caravaggio, in front of his masterpiece the ‘Beheading of St John the Baptist’, was “expelled and thrust forth like a rotten and fetid limb” from the Order. Caravaggio’s creative hallmark was the incorporation of psychological realism and the dramatic use of chiaroscuro. GM St John’s Co-Cathedral is open Monday-Friday 9.30am-4.30pm (ticket office closes at 4pm). Saturday 9.30am-12.30pm (ticket office closes at noon). Closed on Sundays and public holidays. For more information, E: info@stjohnscocathedral.com; www.stjohnscocathedral.com

A R T & C U LT U R E

MASTER OF ART AND SERVANT OF THE GOOD LIFE

Photos: David Agius for Hush Studios

Despite his efforts to shield himself from unwarranted attention, celebrated art veteran PAUL CARBONARO’s work has continued to draw legions of admirers. CAROLINE CURMI visits the Maltese artist at his idyllic hideaway in Żebbug, Gozo, to discuss the experiences that have moulded him into one of the island’s greatest.

itting comfortably in his airy apartment adjacent to ceiling-high windows overlooking the Northern Mediterranean, Paul Carbonaro immediately sets the tone of our conversation: “I’m not a fan of small talk,” he whispers gruffly in between generous sips of wine.

Initial questions are answered in very little detail, and a simple inquiry about his typical day results in the following answer: “I am rather unsociable before 9am, and between 2pm and 4pm I induce myself into a coma,” he says. His dry humour is as refined as his tastes, and he points me towards his biography to source the finer details of his life journey. 076

I am rather unsociable before 9am, and between 2pm and 4pm I induce myself into a coma.

Born and raised in Sliema with easy access to the thenidyllic promenade, Paul’s biography highlights his intrinsic need to live in proximity to the sea – a fact confirmed by our immediate surroundings. Frequently stirred from his slumber by the delightfully aromatic scent of oil paints, turpentine and varnishes as a child, art has been Paul’s other close companion.

implemented by Paul into his artistic practice: meticulous and precise detailing in landscapes is to be avoided like the plague. This rule-breaking theme connects Paul’s art with other aspects of his life. The walking definition of a bohemian as a youth, his deep-rooted lust for life landed him in more than one pickle, but no reprimand amassed throughout the past 72 years has managed to thwart his distinct and highly individualistic relationship with the world. Even when subjected to what he refers to as a torturous stint as a respectable bank clerk, the innately mischievous artist’s focus always lay with finer pursuits.

Indeed, the late renowned artist Hugo Carbonaro had a lasting impact on his son’s creative formation. From effecting a studio ban on basic stationery such as erasers and rulers to insisting on spontaneous linework in drawings, one lesson above all others has been religiously 077

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Paul would go on to study at one of Italy’s most prestigious art academies and effectively follow in his father’s footsteps, but his choice to relinquish financial stability and a guaranteed pension for a career in art shocked society. Paul’s reflection highlights the tremendous shift Maltese society has undergone in the past half-century: “Back then, such a move was classified as taboo because public belief dictated that one couldn’t survive on art,” Paul explains as he leans slightly towards the paintings adorning his living room wall. “I wouldn’t say I’ve performed badly on that front,” he verbalises thoughtfully. On average, the artist works on seven paintings simultaneously: “Not literally at the same time mind you!” he clarifies, explaining that he alternates between different projects, sometimes touching up one painting and then moving on to add a couple of elements to another. His non-linear approach is intriguing, and I point to one of his paintings and enquire specifically about the process behind its creation – was it governed by instinct or the result of meticulous planning? All prompts are rejected and replaced with one single word: “recycling.” The artist explains he often recycles sketches, photographs and specific elements sourced from earlier works to extend their life through a reinterpretation.

Photo: David Agius for Hush Studios

A R T & C U LT U R E

Noticeably more relaxed, the artist abandons his cup and invites me to ditch the comfort of his quaint living room for a new world upstairs. The stylistic difference between the two levels of the same building is astronomical, but before I have a chance to react, Paul justifies the tremendous shift with a quick comment: “it’s organised chaos.” His words highlight a different kind of paradise to the one we had just vacated. Littered with benches, there is little room to manoeuvre through the aisles that separate one work bench from the other. At face value, the view is made up of a congregation of elements which threaten to overwhelm the small space, yet Paul’s words scream truth. Despite the sensory overload, the room generates an organic sense of peace, warmth and freedom. Similar to his living quarters, the studio boasts an infinite supply of natural light that fills the rooms with heightened luminosity. Paul leisurely paces around the studio and explains that this is where he has free reign to operate under his own principles: “I know exactly where everything is even though it may not be in clear sight,” the artist expands. He continues that the agreement he shares with his wife of 12 years is one that benefits both: “my wife is not allowed to alter anything in this studio, and I reciprocate with our living quarters.”

Photo: Paul Carbonaro

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Back then, such a move was classified as taboo because public belief dictated that one couldn’t survive on art. At ease, Paul freely divulges details of his typical day: “every morning I have a slice of toast and a coffee, and head to the studio,” he says. His serious act immediately crumbles as his shoulders shake with laughter: “granted, I don’t spend long periods of time up here but at least I respect the discipline needed to get work done,” he confesses, as he follows this up with another revelation. “I don’t think I’ve worked more than three hours a day.” While some might consider such an unconfined workday a luxury, Paul explains that putting paint to canvas is not an artist’s only job. “You have to remember that visiting museums and sketching sessions both provide material which can later be imported into a painting.” Our morning ends across the street in a semi-underground garage which has been remodelled into a sophisticated gallery. The venue

Photo: Paul Carbonaro

A R T & C U LT U R E

marks a perfect balance between Paul’s studio and living quarters, and boasts some of the artist’s most spectacular works: the vibrant and powerful abstractions and landscapes which Paul’s name has become synonymous with are majestic creations, and closer inspection reveals the intent behind each brushstroke. His work is not just meant to be seen but also experienced: it is through standing in front of his works that one is able to relinquish acquisitioned truths and appreciate – if fleetingly – a modus operandi which is not often given the space to surface in modern society. While most of the collection is up for sale, Paul has no qualms in admitting that a select few pieces have been priced higher than others to deter collectors from placing a bid. “I think I deserve to keep some of my work to myself at this point,” he explains.

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Linking back to his well-known reluctance in dealing with imposed social intimacy, Paul reveals the attention he receives during public exhibitions of his work is unsolicited and has prompted him to forego such events. “It would be far better if during exhibitions people looked closer at the art on display than regarded the occasion as a purely social one,” he explains. For Paul, socialising is not a trivial matter but a delicate combination between good company, good food, good energy and good timing. With lunchtime approaching, Paul bends down to inspect a stack of shelves. He rummages through his wine collection, carefully weighing out an imminent conquest. With the artist’s attention deflecting to more earthly pleasures, it is my cue to leave, my perception of the artist (and abstract art) completely changed. GM

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

VALLETTA’S NIGHTLIFE HEART

Throughout its long and colourful history, THE GUT – a notorious area in Valletta’s Strait Street – was synonymous with fun, frivolity and folly. Today, however, it’s an upmarket hub of bars and restaurants that pays tribute to the past with an eye on the future.

N Japanese Bistrot

Alchemy

N Japanese Bistrot is a Washoku (Japanese gastronomy) restaurant, led by chef Miyuki Sakamoto following the Japanese tradition of Izakaya, the Japanese equivalent to the Spanish tapas bar, where eating succulent and a variety of food is as important as drinking excellent sake.

Alchemy bar is the finest bar in Malta for a unique mixology experience. At Alchemy, patrons can experience the mystical blend of high-end, unique cocktail creations made with home-made, natural ingredients, tasty bites, dedicated quality service, and outstanding design.

92 Strait Street. T: 2730 0781

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93-94 Strait Street. M: 9933 2330; E: info@alchemyvalletta.com

ago, it received a much-needed clean-up in honour of Valletta 2018, when the city held the title of European Capital of Culture.

o talk about Strada Stretta (Strait Street) in its heyday, in the earlier part of the 20th century, is to relive memories, anecdotes and experiences of the capital city’s most hedonistic street. The time was preIndependence Malta, when British and American servicemen stopped by for a drink, a dance and often more; when cabaret singers and drag queens provided much sought-after entertainment; and when jazz tunes spilled from the many bars dotted along the 665-metre long but only four metrewide street, referred to in Maltese as Triq id-Dejqa (the narrow street), a section of which was known as ‘the gut’.

Today, the area still retains vestiges from the past, but it has been transformed into a post-modern alcove of entertainment to satiate 21st-century night owls. Leading the transformation of this street is The Gut, an umbrella brand encompassing high-end restaurants and bars in the historic area with the same name. The Gut is where fine dining, music, theatre, cabaret, dance, and architecture all come together between the street’s narrow walls. The venues within The Gut provide all kinds of quality experiences – a quick spot of lunch, an after-work drink, or a relaxed dinner with entertainment. Here, architecture and design are inspired by history, and the whole offering comes together with tasty food, artisan drinks, outstanding service and fun. So, which one will you try first? GM

Back then, it was the entertainment centre of the capital, while ‘the gut’ was notoriously seedy, dark and sometimes dangerous, widely considered the red light district of Valletta and home to infamous hangouts such as Silver Horse, Blue Peter and James Bond. After 50 odd years of neglect, as the street’s popularity waned from the 1970s until a few years

The Thirsty Lawyer

Ninety Nine Strait Street

Kennedy Bar & Bistro

Playfully themed around the prohibition era, the establishment is evocative of the street’s heyday and colourful past. With its lavish furnishings and breath-taking décor, The Thirsty Lawyer offers a medley of spaces where guests can enjoy great food and master mixology seven days a week, with live entertainment at weekends.

Ninety Nine Strait Street, formerly a notorious bordello dating back to the time of Napoleon, is now an exclusive, private members-only bar with a full calendar of exciting events. Ask your hotel manager for a password to gain temporary membership during your stay in Valletta.

Kennedy is back after half a century of neglect. Think gastro pub, but higher on the hipster scale, with hand-crafted interiors and a love for all-things vintage, from the solid wood bar to everything hanging on the walls. Kennedy is the place to be for premium whiskey, gin, and the best tapas in town.

99 Strait Street. M: 7726 5429; E: 99@99straitstreet.club

99 B/C Strait Street. M: 7904 9838

97-98 Strait Street. T: 2776 1451; E: info@thethirstylawyer.com

Visit www.thegut.com.mt for up-to-date information on all the establishments and exciting upcoming events.

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PLAY, PLAY, BABY For many people coming of age in the late ‘90s and early 2000s, the indie-rock sounds of Maltese band, BEANGROWERS – composed of vocalist and guitarist Alison Galea, bassist Mark Sansone and drummer Ian Schranz – form the soundtrack to their wilder, and fonder years. And, just last year, the band’s hotly anticipated single ‘Love, You Can Never Give Up’, comfortably proved their cult credentials. REBECCA ANASTASI talks to Alison and Mark about the trio’s friendship, music and those crazy nights on tour.

Photo: Oliver Degabriele & Mark Casha

ne balmy evening in Canada’s cultural capital, Toronto, I walked into a large bookstore near Dundas Street and came across a book outlining the ‘best of’ music across Europe, with each country getting a two-page spread. Curious, I checked if Malta had a listing. It had, and, right there, more than 7,000km away from home, I saw a familiar image of three 20-something-year olds rocking it on a stage – vocalist and guitarist Alison Galea, bassist Mark Sansone and drummer Ian Schranz, otherwise known as Beangrowers, a band which had created the soundtrack to my university days and whose whirlwind successes had taken them on tour across the European continent.

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Today, I cannot but look back on my days sitting in large, draughty lecture halls, and weekend nights spent in smoky, dimly-lit bars without hearing the band’s popular Astroboy, Genzora or You Are, You Are ringing in my head, songs which still seem to capture the cultural zeitgeist of the late 1990s and early noughties. Yet, as with all good Maltese stories, this one starts – perhaps improbably, in light of what was to come – in a church in the early ‘90s. “Mark and Ian got to know each other at Catechism lessons in St Julian’s and quickly became good friends,” Alison tells me, revealing that when she first joined their band – years later, at the age of 15 – they “were not too happy to have a girl in their band”, though she quickly points out that “well, actually some did and some did not.” Regardless of that initial hesitation, it soon became apparent that the trio simply worked musically. “In the end, they realised I was ‘worthy’, so to say, and so I stayed,” Alison smiles. From those inauspicious beginnings, the band quickly raised their profile, recording demos in 1996, and coming to the attention of music fans in Germany, heading there to play in clubs and the open-air festival Fête de la Musique in 1997, when the band members were just 19 years old. Their first album, 48K, featuring the popular singles Astroboy, and Genzora, was released in the year 2000, with the former making it to the top 20 of the Deutsche Alternative Charts, while their third single José Clemente hit number seven on the charts in New Zealand, where the band was also garnering a following.

The band’s first album (48K) tour in Hamburg, Germany in 1999. Photo: Thom Hanreich

touring in so many countries, living together,” Alison explains, saying that their long friendship, and the fact that they practically grew up together, has strengthened their music and their process. “There is a strong bond that has always been there, despite our different personalities. The bond is strong because we know each other so well, we all love what we do musically, we respect our differences and we are honest in all that we do. So, when we get together to write music, we work as a team and it’s all very natural and fun – it’s like hanging out with friends who happen to also make great music together,” Alison says.

“The band’s successes came about when we were still in our teens, so we have lived through many adventures together: the studio recordings, our record deals,

Clubs, music festivals and various backstage areas must have given the three friends plenty of time to hang around during the whirlwind years between 1999 and 2001, when the band toured Germany, travelling through Munich, Berlin, Hamburg and Cologne – as well as making an appearance at Konstanz’s Open See Festival. Later, they also supported punk and avant-garde bands, such as Philip Boa & The Voodooclub, as well as Elbow, in 2000, and Slut in 2001. But what is their sharpest memory of those years?

The night we supported the band Rockbitch in Berlin in the late ‘90s completely shattered our innocence!

“The night we supported the band Rockbitch in Berlin in the late ‘90s,” the band’s bassist, Mark recalls. “It completely shattered our innocence! The all-female band mostly performed in the nude and included sexual acts in their live performances. And then there was us – a bunch of kids from St Julian’s – who had never even imagined we’d ever see anything like that... live!” he exclaims.

MARK SANSONE

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Success continued off-stage too, with a new album out in 2001, featuring the singles Teen Titans and This Year’s Love. And, in 2004, the band’s song The Priest, from their third album Dance Dance Baby, was hand-picked by acclaimed German film director, and Palme D’Or winner, Wim Wenders, for the soundtrack of his 2004 film Land of Plenty, starring Michelle Williams. It joined a stellar line-up of songs which also included tracks by musical legends David Bowie, Travis, and Leonard Cohen, playing in cinema theatres at the Venice Film Festival, and later, around the globe. (Wenders is a festival and cinephile darling, having achieved acclaim with, among others, Wings of Desire, which was later remade into the 1993 Hollywood film City of Angels.)

Today I will say that our greatest accomplishment is that we are still making music together as a band.

“We feel so lucky to have been a part of the music industry back when artists still had the full backing of international record labels,” Alison says, looking back on that period. “We could just focus on making and promoting our music. This was our very first professional career, and we had a rock ‘n roll lifestyle for many years,” she recalls.

ALISON GALEA

And, throughout these years, they also kept on playing together, releasing Love, You Can Never Give Up last year. “Today I will say that our greatest accomplishment is that we are still making music together as a band,” Alison says. “We don’t see many other bands out there, who have held together in the same formation for so long. Not that it’s a bad thing to change and experiment with other musicians – we have all worked on music projects and bands apart from Beangrowers – Ian and I released an EP and album with a sister band called The Shh a few years back, which was released in Japan. But we just think it’s so great to have survived as a band for this long, considering that we’ve lived in different countries for some time,” she states.

After a fourth album in 2008 – Not in a Million Lovers – the band seemed to go their separate ways for a while, focusing on individual projects, travelling the world and building careers. Alison moved to Paris, while Mark and Ian stayed on local shores, the former working in the film industry, while the latter re-opened the iconic pub Hole in the Wall in Sliema, with his brother. Music was never far from their lives, however, and Ian is also a founding member of Bark Bark Disco, whose song Honey I Love You Now achieved widespread play locally in 2018.

The way they work has remained the same, she continues. “When we meet up, we write so many new ideas each time – it just takes longer to finish them,” she laughs, saying that she thinks the band managed to “keep our ‘Beangrowers sound’ over the years” but also managed to “include new sounds and atmospheres according to how we were feeling at the time.” In this way, the band’s music is an amalgamation of their individual interests – and testament to their tight bonds. “We each have our own particular influences that blend into a nice big pot, because we mainly write and finish songs together,” the vocalist explains.

The band performing in Vienna in 2004, on tour for their album Dance Dance Baby

But what are on the band’s list of priorities for the future, I ask them. “To survive pandemics, environmental disasters and keep our lungs healthy for as long as possible so that we can become the grandparents of Maltese indie rock,” Mark and Alison laugh. And, for those of us playing their songs on repeat, we’ll keep hoping to hear them play on. GM

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Photo: CVC Media

Photo: Eliot Vella

THIS SUMMER CHOOSE GOZO

ummer is the ideal time to enjoy Gozo’s many beaches and the leisurely way of life that this season brings with it. Enjoy a sip of local wine or your favourite aperitif in the traditional hang-outs in village squares, which are the best places to meet locals and enjoy the laid-back way of life Gozo is so wellknown for. Taking a boat ride around Gozo’s coastline can provide an alternative to simply staying on the beach, where you could enjoy the crystal clear waters of the Mediterranean. Diving is a must during this period, and many choose to enjoy the internationally renowned dive sites and scuttled wrecks along Gozo’s coastline. The various diving schools in Gozo provide expert and safe guidance for the enjoyment of the island’s unique, underwater environment. Every weekend throughout summer, a festa dedicated to a patron saint is celebrated in a locality around Gozo, showcasing the island’s religious traditions and festivities, accompanied by fireworks, band marches and beautifully decorated village churches. Crowds of zealous followers, plenty of local food and a vibrant

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atmosphere are all part of the experience as you take in the sights and sounds of a Gozo festa. For the culture vultures, Gozo has a lot lined up this summer. The Victoria International Arts Festival is a feast for the senses. For five weeks in June and July, the capital of Gozo joins the festival cities of the world with an international composition of artistes and ensembles who leave a lasting impression on the cultural soul of the island. The varied programme of events includes a jazz festival at Mġarr Harbour, a Brass Festival, the Qala International Folk Festival, musical events in Xlendi, Mġarr, and Marsalforn, and the Gozo Film Festival, among many other activities. The warm summer sea, the relaxed way of life, the village squares coming to life in the evenings as the scorching sun sets and the feasts – these are just some of the reasons why Gozo is the place to be with family, friends or on a solo trip this summer. It is pure fun. An experience to treasure. GM For more information about events visit www.visitgozo.com

TA K E N O T E

DISCOVER MALTA

ocated in Malta’s capital city, Valletta, within what was once the Sacra Infermeria of the Knights of Malta, is The Malta Experience. This audio-visual spectacular is one of the largest attractions in Europe in terms of duration, system and language commentaries. The 45-minute presentation can be listened to in one of 17 languages. In a purposely-built auditorium with a panoramic screen, sensational vision and a gripping commentary, The Malta Experience brings 7,000 years of history back to life. Shows are

every hour on the hour, and after each show, one can also enjoy a tour of the Sacra Infermeria. Today, this beautiful building is known as the Mediterranean Conference Centre, but you can still step back in time and visualise its revolutionary past on a guided tour, and visit the longest hospital ward in Europe, measuring 155 metres in length and holding 247 beds. GM Tickets can be purchased from Heritage Malta museums and sites or online from www.shop.heritagemalta.org

THE POINT SHOPPING MALL

CELEBRATING NINE YEARS OF GROWTH AND SUCCESS

ince opening its doors in 2010, The Point Shopping Mall has become Malta’s favourite shopping destination, attracting 2.5 million local and overseas visitors every year. Exuding a stunning five-star ambience, it offers a wide variety of shops in the latest range of fashion, beauty, health, lifestyle, and food outlets for convenience and shopping pleasure. The Point’s extensive array of food outlets has also been handpicked to appeal to a cross-section of tastes and budgets. Ample parking with 24-hour security completes a package that is the last word in comfort, service and convenience for The Point’s visitors. GM

The Point hosts family retailers such as flagship store Debenhams, Marks & Spencer and Costa, alongside designer boutique stores like Armani Exchange, Lacoste, Guess, CK Jeans, Tommy Hilfiger, Massimo Dutti, Ted Baker, Polo Ralph Lauren and Tru Trussardi. More affordable, trendy and fast fashion brands like New Look, River Island and Bershka are also available, together with sportswear retailers such as Adidas and Nike.

The Point Shopping Mall, Tigné Point, Sliema. www.thepointmalta.com

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FUN IN THE SUN WITH

Part of the Costa Edutainment Group (since July 2012), The Mediterraneo Marine Park advocates animal welfare through an interactive learning environment inspired by their motto ‘Education, Emotion and FUN’. Visitors may participate in various animal interaction programmes which provide superb entertainment whilst increasing awareness and conservation responsibilities.

MEDITERRANEO MARINE PARK

s Malta’s only marine park, Mediterraneo is a leading island attraction with tourists and locals alike. Boasting an enviable coastal location, the park promotes interactive participation with a varied selection of marine mammals including dolphins, sea lions, parrots and reptiles. Making the most of Malta’s sunny climate, the Mediterraneo Marine Park remains open all year round. The park is conveniently located just off the main coast road, which has good transport links from most hotels and tourist accommodation. 094

The park has three main programmes which are held daily: The Dolphin Presentation, The Sea Lion Presentation and the Parrot Presentation. All of these presentations offer an amazing experience to aid a better understanding of the animals and an appreciation of their individual characteristics. The highlight of any visit to The Mediterraneo Marine Park has to be the Dolphin SWIM programme – a truly unique and once-in-a-lifetime experience that is not to be missed! Some of the other species that visitors can also expect to see include green wing macaw, amazons, snakes, tortoises, turtles, frogs, toads, spiders, scorpions, and lizards. GM www.mediterraneopark.com

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Legend

3 km

52 56 181 20 1

Il-Buskett

202 X3

Ħaż-Żebbuġ

Ħaġar Qim L-Imnajdra Temples (Mnajdra Temples)

Ħaġar Qim

71 73 74

Ħal Luqa

Ħal Safi

15 21

88 226

Ħal Far

210 82

Birżebbuġa

6 88, 22

135

Ħal Għaxaq Il-Gudja

135

Santa Luċija

8 0 ,8

226 3,

323

Ix-Xgħajra

124

13 9,

124

92,

124

2 32

L-Imġarr

302 303 323 306

322 330

312 322 303 322 323 303 322

302 303 305 306 307 308 310 311 312 313 323 330

1 2 3 4 13 13A 14 15 16 21 22 24 25 31 32 35 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 56 58 58A 61 62 63 64 71 72 73 74 80 81 82 83 84 85 88 91 92 93 94 122 130 133 238 250 260 X4 Malta International Airport 117 119 135 201 X1 X2 X3 X4 2 3 4 124 213 Il-Birgu 80 81 119 210 X4 Birżebbuġa 71 201 Blue Grotto 31 45 48 186 203 212 221 223 Buġibba / Il-Qawra 280 X3 221 222 250 X1 X1A 41 42 101 201 Ċirkewwa Ferry 56 186 202 201 Ta’ Qali 52 56 181 201 Ħad-Dingli 223 225 44 101 201 Golden Bay 1 124 213 L-Isla 213 N3 3 201 Il-Kalkara 91 92 93 119 124 135 201 204 N91 Marsaskala 81 85 119 210 Marsaxlokk 22 31 32 109 110 117 120 121 Mater Dei Hospital 122 135 181 182 204 206 201 201 209 233 238 213 218 226 201 201 210 201 50 51 52 53 56 109 181 182 L-Imdina 186 201 202 250 X3 221 222 250 41 42 49 101 201 Il-Mellieħa X1 X1A 201 44 101 213 L-Imġarr 14 120 Paceville 50 51 52 53 56 109 181 182 Ir-Rabat 186 201 202 250 X3 13 14 15 16 21 201 202 204 Tas-Sliema 201 201 222 225 201 233 X3 212 81 82 201 206 Ħal Tarxien 71 73 74 117 201 218 Iż-Żurrieq

Valletta

MALTA - Index of places served

L-Għarb Marsalforn L-Imġarr In-Nadur Il-Qala Ir-Ramla Ta’ Sannat Santa Luċija / Ta’ Kerċem Ta’ Pinu Church / L-Għasri Ix-Xagħra Ix-Xlendi Iż-Żebbuġ Ix-Xewkija Il-Munxar

Kemmunett Id-Dwejra (Cominotto)

301 309 311 308 310 301 302 303 302 305 313 308 307 306 309 301 305

KEMMUNA GOZO - Index of places served (COMINO)

Il-Qala

Ir-Rabat (Victoria)

322 323 301 303

303

www.freytagberndt.com

St Thomas Bay

91 92 93 119 124 135 204 93

302 In-Nadur

303

GĦAWDEX (GOZO)

Delimara

Marsaxlokk Market

Marsaxlokk

Pretty Bay

81 85

81,119

91, ,93

Ħaż-Żabbar

206 Marsaskala 84 Iż-Żejtun (Wied il-Għajn) 84, 20

301

323

Għajnsielem

94 120 121

Fort Rinella

3 Il-Kalkara

213 1 Il-Fgura 90,91 92,93,94

213

302 , 303

Ix-Xewkija

30 2, 32 2

302

Ramla Bay

Ta’ Kola Windmill Il-Ġgantija (Ġgantija Temples)

307

IL-BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)

Raħal Ġdid 120,121 (Paola) 204 Tarxien Temples Ħal Tarxien

2,3,4

(Cospicua)

X1A Bormla

1 124 213

Il-Belt VALLETTA

Il-Birgu (Vittoriosa)

L-Isla (Senglea)

Ta´Xbiex

Tas-Sliema , 11

305

1,3 03

307

Ir-Rabat (Victoria) 30 2 32 3

307

310 322

Marsalforn Bay

Ix-Xagħra

309 Marsalforn

Il-Munxar Ta’ Sannat

306,3

Ta’ Kerċem

313

30 8 31 ,31 1 2

15 21 202 203 6 212 222 225

4,1

Il-Gżira

Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum

Il-Marsa

Iż-Żurrieq 73

Il-Ħnejja (Blue Grotto)

Il-Qrendi

56 5 Tal-Pietà 8A

L-Imsida 50,54,

X1 X2 X3 119 201 117 Malta Int. Airport 218 72 L-Imqabba

61,62

2,53

San Ġwann 32

A,1

St George’s Bay San Ġiljan (St Julian’s)

22 Il-Balluta 21

0,1

120

University Mater Dei Hospital

X1 X2 X3 X4 61 62 63 64 74 110 120 121 135 204 206 209 210 218 226

Is-Siġġiewi

62 209

58 51,5

106

Ħal Qormi

306 330

313

308

Iż-Żebbuġ

L-Għasri

Santa Luċija

Ix-Xlendi Xlendi Bay

Is-Swieqi

Pembroke

233 16 25 35 2 2

Ħal Balzan Birkirkara

Ħ’Attard

,10

13A 14 103 110 120 121

,73

109

Ras Bajjada

202, 203

L-Iklin

41-49 203, 25 0,260 280 4 5

,182 181

46 260

Ħal Għargħur

Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq

Id-Dwejra

311

San Lawrenz

Azure Window

Għar Lapsi

109

186

106 54

In-Naxxar Mosta Dome Il-Mosta

,5 50,52,5 3

Ta’ Qali

Buskett Gardens

Ir-Rabat

53 186 201 202

Ta' Qali National Stadium

L-Imdina

182

186

Tarġa Gap

Is-Salina

Il-Qawra

21 2 , 22 2, 2 25 X 1, X1A

X1 X1A X2 22 25 31 32 106 110 117 120 122 135 181 182 204 206 209 210 213 218 226 233 238 260 280

312

L-Għarb

Ta’ Pinu

310

This map is to be used for personal/non-commercial purposes. Unauthorised reproduction is forbidden. For more information please contact us on publictransport.com.mt or 21222000

MALTA

L-Imtarfa

Burmarrad

X1,X

Il-Bidnija

44, 2 3

103

Il-Wardija

Ħad-Dingli

Dingli Cliffs

109

Ta’ Ħaġrat

101 238

Skorba Temples

A X1

San Pawl il-Baħar (St Paul’s Bay)

Buġibba

X3 31 45 48 186 203 212 221 223 280

Selmunett (St Paul’s Islands)

5 17,13

Bus routes Bus routes only summer Number of bus route Place of departure/arrival Key bus stop Sales and information ofﬁce Bus interchange Tourist information Heritage site Place of interest Airport Hospital Ferry Beach

Il-Baħrija

109

Il-Ġnejna

L-Imġarr

Ġnejna Bay

223, 2

Il-Mellieħa

Mellieħa Bay

Għajn Tuffieħa

101

1 44, 10

Golden Bay

44 223 225

Popeye Village Il-Prajjet (Anchor Bay)

22 1

L-Għadira

101

IL-BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)

Paradise Bay

X1B

BUS MAP

9 30

Ċirkewwa Ferry

202

305,30

Iċ-Ċirkewwa

181, 56

54,106

X1 X1A 41 42 101 221 222 250

2 20 1,

6,18 52,5

109

25, 35

62,109

305

L-Armier (Armier Bay)

218 4

,85

218

,82

80,82 , 85

,88

73, 1

0,2

201

31 71

2, 5

18 X1,X

097

,12

5,48,186, X3 ,42,4 ,41 31 203,250,280 120

206

0 ,25 103

210

2 22 , 260 81,8

135

1A 16

124

ġa Im L-

B, ,X1

119

41,42 X1 303

rr y Fe

32 e Ferr y to Ċirk

VA L L E T TA M A P PLACES OF INTEREST

De Robertis Rooftop Restaurant

The Gut

The Malta Experience

St John’s Co-Cathedral

Valletta Waterfront

The Lascaris War Rooms

Saluting Battery

Auberge de Castille ST JOSEPH STREET

FOUNTAIN STREET

F AR WH RY AR QU Y ST RE ET

ST PAUL STREET

MERCHANTS STREET

ST AN TH ON

OLD MINT STREET

SOUTH STREET

MELITA STREET

T EE Y STR

3 Upper Barrakka Gardens

ORDNANCE STREET

WIN DMIL L STRE ET

ER B AT T

ST ZACHARY STREET

REPUBLIC STREET

STRAIT STREET

ST JOHN STREET

ST MARK STREET MELITA STREET

ST URSULA STREET

SIE

GIR

E AT

NE GR

EET

Hastings Garden

098

WEST STREET

ST FREDERICK STREET

STRAIT STREET

ST LUCIA STREET

OLD BAKERY STREET

Fort St Elmo

OLD THEATRE STREET

Lower Barrakka Gardens

ST CHRISTOPHER STREET

ST RE ET

Charles & Ron

ARCHBISHOP STREET

Is-Suq tal-Belt

ST DOMINIC STREET

23 24

ST CHRISTOPHER STREET

M XE TT

Grandmaster’s Palace & Armoury

M AR SA

St George’s Square

Teatru Manoel

ST NICHOLAS STREET

EET

St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral

National Library

STR

IA N

OLD HOSPITAL STREET

St Paul’s Shipwreck Church

AST

EB ST S

National Museum of Archaeology

Parliament Building

Pjazza Teatru Rjal

NORTH STREET

MUŻA

Our Lady of Victory Church

Spazju Kreattiv M

11 12

E ST RE ET

Browns Restaurant

ST PATR IC K

Palazzo Preca Restaurant

ST G EO RG

1 2