Guide Me Summer/Autumn 2022 by Content House

M A L T A

G O Z O

THINGS TO DO

Discover the islands’ most idyllic coastal spots p. 12

EXPLORE

The best that Gozo has to offer p. 20

MEET THE LOCALS Meet internationally renowned architect Richard England p. 38

G U I D E M E M A LTA .C O M

S U M M E R /A U T U M N 2 0 2 2 | € 7. 5 0

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CONTENTS

12. 20.

30. 37. 08

10 Idyllic coastal spots to explore

Whether you charter a yacht or rent out a kayak or SUP, you can expect to see some pretty spectacular spots en route. Edward Bonello shares his favourites.

Top 10 things to do in Gozo this season

A visit to the island of Gozo is a must during your Malta trip. To make the most of your time, follow Sarah Muscat Azzopardi’s insider’s guide on the top things to do and see over the coming months.

Fish for the best seafood in the Med

What can you expect if you’re keen on savouring the succulent delights of the Mediterranean sea? Rebecca Anastasi lets you in on the tastes and textures to expect, and offers her advice on how to source the best during your stay.

Food & Drink

Find the perfect place to wine and dine on the islands with our handy restaurant guide.

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ON THE COVER

The spirit of an island

Location: St Mary’s Cathedral, Cittadella, Gozo Photography: Daniel Malinowski – viewingmalta.com

Richard England is one of Malta’s most prominent architects. Sarah Muscat Azzopardi catches up with him to take a glimpse at Malta through his eyes.

PUBLISHERS Content House Group

47.

ADVERTISING

Investing in Malta guide

An in-depth look at what it takes to set up a business in Malta, the new and emerging economic sectors attracting local and international investment, and why the islands are considered a business and financial services hub in Europe.

Director of Sales & Operations Lindsey Napier Senior Brand Sales Executive Wanaha Camilleri Operations & Client Relationship Manager Elena Debattista Operations & Accounts Manager Sue Ann Pisani

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ART DIRECTION & DESIGN Nicholas Cutajar

Summer style, the island way

Want to be bang on trend this season but don’t know where to start? Sarah Muscat Azzopardi reveals the latest collections of four local fashion designers for a dose of inspiration.

A kaleidoscope of colour

James Vella Clark has long been on an interesting journey of artistic exploration. Martina Bartolo Parnis meets him to find out more about the man behind the compelling works and to reveal the areas of the Maltese islands that inspire him most.

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Rebecca Anastasi, Martina Bartolo Parnis, Edward Bonello, Sarah Muscat Azzopardi

Content House Group, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Zone 3, Central Business District Birkirkara CBD 3010 T: +356 2132 0713 E: info@contenthouse.com.mt W: www.contenthouse.com.mt Published since 2005, Guide Me is the largest and the leading independent guide for visitors in Malta and Gozo. This issue covers the period summer-autumn 2022. Guide Me is distributed free of charge through leading hotels around Malta and Gozo. The publication is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo. It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at the MIA and Gozo Channel ferries. Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me are not necessarily those of Content House Group and the company does not accept responsibility for advertising content. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

EDITORIAL

BEAUTY ABOUNDS

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hether you’re into culture or nature, sports or culinary delights, or a healthy mix of most of the above, you’re in for a treat during your stay in Malta. And this issue of Guide Me seeks to help you make the most of your visit.

We start off with an interesting journey along the coast to reveal the truly spectacular spots that are best enjoyed from the sea. Edward Bonello chooses his pick of 10 of the most scenic areas across the Maltese islands that should be on your radar should you have the opportunity to charter a yacht or to rent out a vessel, whatever the size. Next up is Sarah Muscat Azzopardi’s choice of unmissable things to do and see in Gozo this season. The island of Gozo is idyllic; it’s a greener, more laidback version of the island of Malta. Whether you choose to spend a day or longer, make it a point to follow at least some of her tips. And there’s more advice on page 30, this time addressed to those who want to savour the bounty of the sea on a plate. Rebecca Anastasi lets you in on what to expect if you’re after a genuine, local dish, and – for those who are less in the know – on how to choose the freshest fish of the lot. This edition of Guide Me also introduces you to several creatives, each equally passionate about their creations as they are about their country. Our first interviewee is Prof Richard England who, besides being an internationally renowned architect, is also a talented sculptor, artist, photographer, poet and author. He shares his wonderful life story with Sarah Muscat Azzopardi on page 38. On page 56 we meet four local fashion designers who reveal their latest collections, many of which are inspired by the colourful palette and landscape that characterise the Maltese islands. We also meet celebrated artist James Vella Clark, who is best known for his enthralling interpretation of local landscapes. He sheds light on his artistic journey with Martina Bartolo Parnis. Besides getting to know these creatives up close and personal we also asked each of them to divulge their favourite spots across the islands. With all this and more, we hope you enjoy this edition of Guide Me.

Photo: Boyanoo - Boyan Casper Orste - viewingmalta.com

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THINGS TO DO

10 IDYLLIC COASTAL SPOTS TO EXPLORE Blue Lagoon, Comino Photo: Gregory Iron @Gergely Vas - viewingmalta.com

As an island at the heart of the dazzling, azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea, it should come as no surprise that some of the most spectacular spots worthy of a visit in Malta and Gozo are best enjoyed from the sea. With several yacht chartering companies offering comprehensive day tours and bespoke sea trips, and water sports centres renting out all sorts of equipment such as kayaks, paddle boats and boards, a day out on the spell-binding blue waters is a must. But where to start from? EDWARD BONELLO lists 10 stunning spots to visit for the full Malta experience.

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1. BLUE LAGOON, COMINO

We start with possibly one of the crown jewels of the Maltese islands – Comino’s Blue Lagoon. The creek situated between Comino, which is the smallest of the main islands of the Maltese archipelago, and its even smaller sister Cominotto, is home to an amazing aquamarine sea which is only made more spectacular by the formations that surround it. Proudly guarded by the Santa Marija Tower on the overlooking cliff, the Blue Lagoon and the surrounding rocky inlets have inspired innumerable visitors through the ages, and are a must visit. Things can get quite busy here, so it is best to visit either early in the morning, or during the week – try to avoid weekends.

2. POPEYE VILLAGE/ANCHOR BAY, MALTA Back on the mainland, Anchor Bay, situated in the south-east of the island, is home to a film set which was constructed in 1980 for the film ‘Popeye’, starring the legendary Robin Williams in his big screen debut. The village was built to emulate the imaginary seaside village ‘Sweet Haven’, where the travelling Popeye lands and the story unfolds. The romanticised film set stole everyone’s heart immediately and contrary to what usually happens, it was never pulled down. The place is worth a visit all year round, as the colourful houses against the green-blue waters offer some prime Instagram-worthy shots for any traveller.

Popeye Village/Anchor Bay, Malta Photo: viewingmalta.com

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THINGS TO DO

3. THE CAVES, COMINO

Back to Comino – on your way back home after exploring the Blue Lagoon, make sure to ask your skipper to take you round the back of the island where you will not only feast your eyes on the spectacular cliffs home to innumerable endemic flora and fauna, and the iconic elephant rock – but you will also be able to visit the famous Comino caves. Accessible only by sea, these caves can be a bit of a tight fit, so make sure to have an experienced seaman leading – but the view is worth the extra effort.

The Caves, Comino Photo: viewingmalta.com

4. DWEJRA BAY, GOZO

Few places pack so much natural beauty, and history, quite like Gozo’s Dwejra. This spot is home to a number of attractions. Starting from the Inland Sea , surrounded by high cliffs overlooking the open sea, you can take a trip on one of the small boats anchored here that passes through a crack in the rock. Once through, you will be out into the open Mediterranean where the razor-sharp cliffs plummet into the deep blue. Next, make your way round to the secluded Dwejra bay, hidden away behind the 60m high Fungus Rock, home to the endemic fucus coccineus melitensis, which the Knights of St John believed to have medicinal properties. Never mind the fucus coccineus though; snorkelling in this inlet is unbelievable. Fungus Rock, Gozo Photo: viewingmalta.com

5. MĠARR IX-XINI, GOZO

Mġarr ix-Xini, Gozo Photo: viewingmalta.com

Still on the sister island of Gozo, Mġarr ix-Xini is an incredibly scenic creek in the south-east of the island which, as the name suggests (xini meaning ship or galley in Maltese), was a preferred berthing spot for galleys during the time of the Knights of St John. Here, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie spent a summer working on their pride project ‘By the Sea’, which was filmed in this very spot. Pity that the movie was not well received, but the location is nothing short of A-list worthy!

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THINGS TO DO

6. TA’ MARIJA CAVE, MALTA

This enchanting, large cave was dug out over the eons by the waves which can be quite rough on this side of the island. An ideal destination for a kayaking trip from the nearby Ġnejna Bay, Ta’ Marija cave offers an idyllic spot for some quiet respite in its crystal-clear waters or an unforgettable sunset. Make sure not to stay here beyond nightfall though, as finding your way back in the dark might be a bit of a challenge.

7. BLUE GROTTO, MALTA

This one’s a bit of a celebrity spot! Very popular with visitors and locals alike, the series of sea-level caves are efficiently served by small boats which leave the nearby Wied iż-Żurrieq creek. Several of the caves are home to a unique natural phenomenon whereby the sea unleashes an amazing show of reflected colours onto the cave walls. Here the sea explodes into a feast for the eyes, of turquoise, deep blue, green, red, orange, and so much more! Definitely not one to miss.

Blue Grotto, Malta Photo: viewingmalta.com

ĦOFRA L-KBIRA AND ĦOFRA Ż-ŻGĦIRA, MALTA

Ħofra translates to cavity or hole, and the names of these two bays literally translate to Big Cavity and Small Cavity! 10 points for Maltese originality, but the views here are spectacular and the crystalline waters are perfect for snorkelling. The white cliffs that stand tall above the ħofriet, seemingly locking the bays in a tight embrace, are typical of this side of the island.

BEACH, 9. IMĠIEBAĦ MALTA

The golden sand of this beach is the stuff of fantasy. Tucked away between the rocks, it doesn’t get much more Maltese than this, as Imġiebaħ is one of the few beaches that is still practically unspoilt. The limpid blue waters here are spectacular and the views are nothing short of breath-taking.

Imġiebaħ Beach, Malta Photo: viewingmalta.com 016

THINGS TO DO

Coral Lagoon, Ras l-Aħrax, Malta

LAGOON, RAS L-AĦRAX, 10. CORAL MALTA

And saving a real treat for last – the Coral Lagoon at the end of Ras L-Aħrax in Mellieħa is a collapsed sea cave which is now a gaping hole leading to wonderfully clear waters. Ideal for a kayaking trip from the nearby Armier beaches, words cannot do justice to this picture-perfect spot in the north of the island.

BONUS PLACE THE GRAND HARBOUR

This is probably one of the most beautiful places your eyes will ever set on. Try to visit the Grand Harbour by sea at sunset, when the tired orange rays of sunlight flirt with the historical bastions and join in a dance with the contours of the iconic skyline, dotted with baroque church domes and steeples in Valletta and the Three Cities. It is no wonder that it is often described as one of the most beautiful natural harbours in the world. The Grand Harbour, Malta Photo: viewingmalta.com

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EXPLORE

TOP 10 THINGS TO DO IN GOZO THIS SEASON

Photo: Pete Bullen/OceanFoto

SARAH MUSCAT AZZOPARDI offers a local insider’s guide on what’s on and what’s happening in the sister island of Gozo over the coming months, and the top spots not to miss.

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Pjazza Indipendenza, Victoria Photo: viewingmalta.com

1. START AT THE CAPITAL

All roads on the sister isle lead to its capital, Victoria (or Rabat, as it is also known), so it stands to reason that no visit to Gozo is complete without a stop here. Head over to the square at the centre of the town, Pjazza Indipendenza, affectionately known by locals as it-Tokk, to start your day off right, with pastizzi (traditional cheese or pea cakes) at one of its many traditional cafés. If you make it early enough, it’s worth exploring the lively daily market that’s set up at the square, followed by a stroll through the web of ancient backstreets around St George’s Basilica.

2. EXPLORE THE CITTADELLA If you’re pressed for time, skip the market and head directly to the main event: the majestic Cittadella. Having recently undergone an extensive restoration project that brought it back to its former glory, the old, fortified capital of the island dates back to Byzantine times, and is a must-visit site on the island. As you make your way through the arched entrance, you’ll immediately notice the imposing Gozo Cathedral across the main square, as well as the Law Courts and the Bishop’s Palace. It’s worth braving the heat to climb up to the very top – few other places in Gozo offer such sweeping panoramic views.

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E X P LO R E

Il-Haġar – Heart of Gozo

The Old Prison

3. VISIT A MUSEUM

When the heat gets too much, seek shelter in one of Gozo’s museums – many of which are dotted around the capital. These include the Cathedral Museum, the Museum of Archaeology, the Gran Castello Historic House, the Old Prison and the Gozo Nature Museum, as well as the most recent addition to Gozo’s museums, Il-Haġar – Heart of Gozo, which showcases how the Gozitan community was shaped by its religious tradition.

Dwejra Bay Photo: viewingmalta.com

4. DISCOVER GOZO’S BEACHES

Ramla Bay Photo: viewingmalta.com

Gozo is home to some of the Maltese islands’ most beautiful beaches, so we definitely recommend taking a dip! Xlendi, Ramla Bay and Marsalforn are three of the most popular spots, and if you’re into diving or snorkelling, Dwejra Bay, the Inland Sea and the area surrounding the rock formation formerly known as the Azure Window are ideal. Mġarr ix-Xini is also high on the list – apart from being a picturesque swimming spot, its greatest claim to fame is that it was the setting for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s film, ‘By the Sea’.

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5. DIVE INTO THE HISTORY

History buffs can’t miss a visit to Ġgantija Temples, which are among the oldest freestanding monuments in the world – even preceding Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids! They’re also the second oldest religious structures in the world. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the complex, consisting of two temples, dates back to between 3,600 and 3,200 BC; and an interpretation centre provides insight into the area and its history. If you’re visiting in August, we recommend scheduling your visit early in the morning (the complex opens at 9am) or later in the afternoon (until 4.30pm), since it’s primarily outdoors.

Ġgantija Temples

6. SAMPLE THE CUISINE

Whether it’s a Mediterranean feast of fish by the sea, a char-grilled steak enjoyed al fresco or a romantic meal accompanied by a bottle of wine, you’re sure to find something to your taste in Gozo. Top areas for dining out include Xlendi, Victoria and Marsalforn, not to mention other eateries located in more remote areas across the island. If you’re looking for something to take home, Vini e Capricci by Abrahams, at Gozitano Agricultural Village in Xewkija, stocks a large selection of gourmet food and delicacies, as well as fine local fare including extra virgin olive oil and Gozo sea salt.

Xlendi Photo: viewingmalta.com

7. TAKE A VILLAGE STROLL

If you find time for a stroll through some of Gozo’s old villages like Xewkija, Munxar, Nadur and Għarb, you’ll understand why locals refer to the island as a place where time stands still. The ancient streets with narrow alleyways were built to beat the heat and provide security to residents over the centuries, and are dotted with tiny local shops, bakeries, cafés and bars. In the centre of each village, you’ll find a beautiful, often huge church – one of an impressive 46 Roman Catholic churches in Gozo. Apart from the architecture, it’s here that you’re most likely to catch a glimpse of what life is truly like in Gozo, and the unique charm of its people, who are warm and welcoming.

Xewkija Photo: Boyanoo - Boyan Casper Orste - viewingmalta.com

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YOURSELF IN LOCAL 8. IMMERSE CRAFTS

And if you’ve made it to Għarb, a visit to Ta’ Dbieġi Crafts Village, which is located on the outskirts of the island’s oldest village, is a must. This complex pays homage to Gozo’s artisanal heritage, and is made up of several individual shops, each specialised in a specific craft. Here, you’ll find everything from jewellery and silver filigree to lace-making, pottery, leather-making, and blacksmiths, as well as stone decorators and glass-blowers – all the crafts the island is so well known for – and in most cases, you can even watch the artisans at work in many of their shops.

9. GET SOME WHEELS

Ta’ Dbieġi Crafts Village Photo: Denise Wilkins - viewingmalta.com

10. LISTEN TO MUSIC UNDER

THE STARS

As the sun sets on the sister isle, the beauty of Mediterranean living can be experienced at a number of lively evening events. Throughout the summer months, you’ll often find live music being played at village squares around the island, as well as a number of music-filled events and festivals. This year, the Gozo Youth Wind Band and Orchestra is celebrating its 20th anniversary with a fun series of events including ‘Opera vs Pop Under The Stars’ in August and the seventh edition of ‘Stage and Proms on the Sea’ at the Mġarr Marina in September – so keep an eye out for events during your visit!

Xwejni Bay Photo: viewingmalta.com

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While exploring the island on foot is often the best way to go, summer temperatures can prove challenging. If you’re still keen to visit Gozo’s scenic spots without a car, renting a bicycle, quad bike or segway can make things easier. There are several local rental companies that offer different options, and you can even opt for a guided tour rather than going it alone – just make sure you pack your hat and sunscreen, and factor in a refreshing dip on your beach stop-offs!

W O R K I N G F R O M M A LTA

A PARADISE FOR THE DIGITAL NOMAD

alta is world-renowned as the jewel of the Mediterranean; a touristic paradise with so much to offer, that it would be impossible to grasp the true character and way of life from one short trip.

This is where the digital nomad lifestyle comes in. Remote work is currently on the rise, with people opting to trade in traditional breaks away from work for longer travel without pausing their careers. Malta happens to be the perfect place for this new type of adventure. Malta is highly sought-after for its Mediterranean climate, beauty and cultural treasures. It is among the safest countries to live in, perhaps due to its close-knit communities, family-oriented culture, and hospitable people.

links to Europe, North Africa and the Middle East, and connectivity within the island is easier than ever with our constant upgrades to infrastructure. Living situations are also a breeze. Most rentals come furnished and there are plenty of options available for every budget. Location is key, and choosing a cheaper apartment in outlying towns is no issue, particularly because one can cross the island in less than an hour. And you never need to worry about what you’re going to eat. Not only are there many brilliant restaurants offering cuisines from around the world; there are also plenty of supermarkets and mini markets in every village. Prices are comparable to other European cities, but you can also eat on the cheap if you know where to shop, and local produce is among the freshest you will ever find.

Also interesting for the digital nomad is the large expat community that currently resides here. One in five people is an expat, and plenty of nomads have eventually decided to set up shop locally.

To be eligible for Malta’s Nomad Residence Permit, you must be employed, self-employed or a freelancer with a foreign company and earn an income of €2,700. The permit is open for all sectors and offers an option for immediate family members.

5G is available nationwide, and there are 400 free public Wi-Fi hotspots. Physical connectivity is another perk for the local resident. Malta offers daily flights and sea

Further information can be found on nomad.residencymalta.gov.mt. We look forward to welcoming you to our island. 029

FOOD & DRINK

FISH FOR THE BEST SEAFOOD IN THE MED If there’s one thing that Malta does well, that’s serving up a spate of scrumptious fish and seafood delicacies in its many eateries. Indeed, from high-end restaurants to hole-in-the-wall cafés, many of the island’s traditional dishes boast the best the sea can offer. REBECCA ANASTASI has your guide to the tastes and textures which will make your mouth water.

Photo: viewingmalta.com

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et me start with a personal story. When I was a child, my British mother so abhorred eating fish that she would refuse to cook anything with a fin on it – except for fish fingers, of course, which didn’t look, taste or smell like any of it had been remotely near the sea. It didn’t seem to matter too much at the time, even though I lived on this Mediterranean island. After all, you don’t miss what you’ve never known. I never even seemed tempted to choose fish or seafood at a restaurant when we ate out as a family, for those culinary tastes and textures were like a foreign land, and I was not keen to buy a ticket to visit. But that all changed when I met the man who would later become my husband. A culinary enthusiast, some of his fondest childhood and teenage memories featured standout Maltese traditional meals including aljotta (fish soup), or lampuki (mahi-mahi), grilled, cooked in pie, or battered and deep-fried. A new world opened up, and I found myself trying everything and anything I could find – tuna tartare, octopus stew, salmon patties – the best of the sea, river or lake. An explosion of flavours burst into my world, and I knew there was no turning back the clock. (Dear reader, just

for the avoidance of any doubt, I did not marry the man for his fish and seafood expertise!). Malta is, of course, ideal to explore this culinary terrain – the geographical fishshape of the island is even testament to its dedication to the bounty offered by the waters surrounding its shores. However, what can you expect and how can you make the most of your time if you’re keen on deeply experiencing the succulent delicacies of the Mediterranean? CHOOSE LOCAL Not surprisingly, step into any restaurant and you’ll find a smorgasbord of seafood options on the menu. Some of these would have been sourced from smallscale Maltese fishermen; others from the fish farms peppered around the island or, even, from much further afield (for instance, salmon is a popular item on offer, a lot of which is farmed in northern climes). Always ask your server where your fish comes from – good restaurants will actually flag up if the items on the menu are farmed or not – and you should ask to see the fish they have on offer, to ensure it is fresh. Opting for wild fish, rather than farmed, is often preferable, since they tend to be less fatty, and healthier

The geographical fish-shape of the island is testament to its dedication to the bounty offered by the waters surrounding Malta’s shores.

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FOOD & DRINK

Photo: viewingmalta.com

to consume, although they are almost always more expensive. Moreover, by making such a conscientious choice, you support the traditional fishing industry, made up of local fishermen, many of whom use their luzzu – those colourful boats which pepper Malta’s seas – whose trade has been passed down through generations, although, today, strict EU regulations and the oversupply coming from fish farms are posing existential threats to these mainstays of the island’s identity.

And, due to the largesse offered by the Mediterranean waters, prioritising local does not mean limiting yourself, and you should keep an eye out for these options (the Maltese names are in brackets): seabream (awrat); the traditional dorado or mahi-mahi (lampuki); tuna (tonn); dentex (dentiċi); seabass (spnott); red snapper (paġell); swordfish (pixxispad); and grouper (ċerna). Freshly caught sea urchins (rizzi), as well as king prawns (gambli), are also a treat you’re not likely to forget anytime soon. EXPLORE THE VARIETY SERVED UP! While some northern countries simply boil or fry their fish, here in Malta, there are as many ways to cook seafood as there are species. For the healthconscious, grilled (whether on the bone, or filleted) will always help you achieve your dietary goals, yet do make an effort to push the boat out and discover the unfamiliar modes of eating some of island’s bestloved dishes.

Always ask your server where your fish comes from – good restaurants will actually flag up if the items on the menu are farmed or not.

The most ubiquitous – featuring on the menus of many a traditional, as well as avant-garde restaurant – is the aljotta, Malta’s fish soup, consisting of white fish (sea bream or seabass are often used), prawns and other seafood cooked in a garlic-based clear broth flavoured with parsley, mint and marjoram, with a little bit of rice added for bulk. Many households eat this on a regular basis, and it has become a staple of local cuisine over the centuries. The same can be said of the island’s take on octopus stew, stuffat tal-qarnit: truly Mediterranean fare, the octopus is usually frozen overnight and then defrosted to make it more tender; it is then cooked in a red wine and tomato-based sauce, flavoured using garlic, onions, olives and capers, with many adding peas to the mix for some colour. 033

FOOD & DRINK

For a truly authentic local experience, head to the fishing village of Marsaxlokk: the many outlets which line the promenade specialise in delivering the best the sea can offer. the area who, often, deliver fresh produce right to their doors. And, if you’ve rented an apartment and fancy trying your hand at cooking one of the varieties found in this area of the Med, head to this southern town on a Sunday morning, during the fish market, where stalls upon stalls of fresh produce are manned by the most prominent fishing families. The capital, Valletta, as well as the ever-popular coastal towns of Sliema and St Julian’s, also boast spots, including some of the more high-end establishments, which serve a gamut of fish and seafood delicacies. However, it is often best to take the road less travelled and, if you’re keen to explore more of the beauty the island has to offer, make it a point to head towards the small bay at Għar Lapsi, near the village of Siġġiewi, a common haunt for local fishermen, where more traditional cafés, and hole-in-the-wall diners have the freshest produce on the menu, cooked in the most innovative of ways.

Add to these the following delicacies: lampuki pie (torta tal-lampuki), a puff pastry casing stuffed solid with the white flesh of the dorado or mahi-mahi, Malta’s late summer staple; grilled swordfish (pixxispad griljat), topped with a tomato, caper and olive sauce; Maltese salted cod, known locally as bakkaljaw, and deep-fried calamari (klamari moqlija), served with a light green salad, to keep those guilt feelings at bay! With the island being so close to Italy’s shores, it also boasts dishes inspired (or, in many cases, taken) from our neighbours, including spaghetti vongole (spaghetti with clams); pesce al cartoccio (fish wrapped up in a foil package, cooked in white wine, garlic, onion and cherry tomatoes), or pesce al sale (fish cooked in a casing of heavy sea salt).

FRESH FISH: TIPS ON CHOOSING FROM A DISPLAY If you don’t know what to look out for when choosing your fish, here are some pointers: 1. Look at its eyes: these should be clear, bright and bulging. 2. The gills need to be bright red or pink, as well as moist. 3. Touch the fish (yes, go ahead!) – the flesh should still bounce back after you’ve pressed it. 4. Observe its scales: are they shiny or dull and loose? If the latter, choose something else. 5. The fish should not smell strongly but should have an aroma of the sea.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION There are hundreds of fish restaurants, or eateries that serve seafood, on the island, but where you decide to go does matter. For a truly authentic local experience, head to the fishing village of Marsaxlokk: the many outlets which line the promenade specialise in delivering the best the sea can offer. The chef-owners here have strong relationships with the fishermen of

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FOOD & DRINK

Find the perfect place to wine and dine on the islands with our handy restaurant guide.

Fernandõ Gastrotheque

Shakinah

Zeri’s Restaurant

With its beautiful, sleek interiors peppered with speckles of bright and vibrant colours, Fernandõ Gastrotheque is not just a place where one eats. It’s a space where people can enjoy the finer things in life – a phenomenal encounter with exceptional food and superior wines.

Inspired by a Passion For Flavour and a heart for serving, Shakinah Indian Gastronomy offers an innovative dining experience, bringing together a fusion of authentic Indian cuisine within a contemporary, high-end ambience. The à la carte menu features a vast selection of authentic Indian curries, made with spices directly from India and by the expert hands of Shakinah’s native chefs. There is no shortage of tandoori dishes on sizzling platters, as well as a naan bread selection to complement any choice. Shakinah has a tantalising collection of signature cocktails and seasonal cocktail menus, packed with flair, flavour and texture. Curated by Shakinah’s resident mixologists, they are served in a hand-made selection of unique and Instagram-worthy glassware.

Zeri’s, set in the prestigious Portomaso Marina, offers an excellent selection of fresh crudo, shellfish, fish, pasta and meat. The delectable menu is carefully compiled, and also includes vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options.

Fernando is a Michelin Guidelisted restaurant, offering both à la carte and tasting menus. With over 600 different wines to choose from, Fernando boasts the best wine selection on the island. Fernando also offers wine pairing recommendations. Tigné Street, Sliema. T: 7922 2023; E: fgastrosliema@gmail.com

Open Mon-Sun: noon-11pm. 11, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida. T: 2752 2322; M: 7739 9300; E: info@shakinahmalta.com

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Complementing the outstanding food is an eye-for-detail service which caters for every guest’s needs. Zeri’s is an ideal venue for both business and pleasure. Booking is always recommended, and can be easily done online through our Facebook Page, or via phone on 2135 9559. Open for dinners from Monday to Saturday from 7pm till 11pm. Portmaso Marina, Portomaso, St Julian’s.

MEET THE LOCALS

Photo: Inigo Taylor

THE SPIRIT OF AN ISLAND SARAH MUSCAT AZZOPARDI takes a glimpse at Malta through the eyes of Maltese architect, writer, artist and academic RICHARD ENGLAND.

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Dar il-Ħanin Samaritan, Santa Venera, Malta

hen you grow up in a particular place, you become what you behold,” says Richard England, quoting William Blake as he reclines on the sofa in his home studio, surrounded by a vast collection of books, drawings and records, reflecting on his inextricable ties with his island home. “You absorb something which, whether you are conscious of it or not, becomes an inherent part of you.” Born in Malta in 1937, the celebrated architect has enjoyed a long and prolific career, making notable contributions to his field both locally and abroad. Apart from his architectural work, Prof. England is also a sculptor, photographer, poet, artist and the author of several books, with Malta continuing to be a constant – featuring in and impacting his work – throughout his life. Looking back on the early days of his career, Prof. England recalls how, after graduating from the

When you grow up in a particular place, you become what you behold. University of Malta and continuing his studies in Italy under renowned architect-designer Gio Ponti, a special gift from his father, who was also an architect, brought him back to the island. “My father had received a commission for a church in a small village called Manikata, and he gave it to me, as a sort of handing over of the baton. A commission of that nature was one of the first reasons I stayed in Malta,” he explains, and it would soon go on to lead to another project, and another. As time passed, he met and married his Maltese wife, Myriam Borg Manduca, and started a family, cementing his roots in Malta. This didn’t stop him from reaching beyond the island’s shores, however. “I would travel a lot – travelling opens up your mind. And, as my work started becoming more known on an international level, I also began getting invitations to lecture and write abroad.” Now, at the age of 84, Prof. England still calls Malta home, and shows no signs of slowing down, continuing in his zeal to work on several architecture and writing projects. “At my age, you have no time

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Manikata Church, Malta. Photo: Daniel Cilia

Ħal-Farruġ Church (exterior), Malta Ramla Bay Hotel, Marfa, Malta 1964

My father had received a commission for a church in a small village called Manikata, and he gave it to me, as a sort of handing over of the baton. to waste,” he smiles, but on the subject of home, it is with mixed feelings that he admits, “I suppose I love the Malta that I knew in the ‘60s more than the Malta in which we are living at present.” Reflecting on those formative years, Prof. England refers to the 1960s as the decade that changed the world. “A little bit of the zeitgeist of that age reached Malta,” he says, referencing the music of bands like the Beatles and Led Zeppelin, the Flower Power movement and the love of the Earth, the Beat poets in California, among others. “Following Malta’s Independence in 1964, there was a group of us, led by philosopher and eventually University Rector 041

Peter Serracino Inglott, who were looking at trying to create something which had its memory and origins in the Maltese islands – not in a nationalistic way but in more of a regionalistic way. There was Charles Camilleri in music; Emvin Cremona, Gabriel Caruana and a group of other artists; Daniel Massa writing poetry; Francis Ebejer in literature; myself in architecture – what we were trying to do was to look backwards while moving forwards, so building on the past using this memory. We had a vision of something which belonged exclusively to this region, and to Malta. That was extremely stimulating.” He also considers himself very lucky, on a personal level, to have rubbed shoulders with a number of people of international status who settled in Malta during that time. Among these were architects Basil Spence and Quentin Hughes, abstract artist Victor Pasmore, zoologist Desmond Morris, novelist Nicholas Monsarrat, historian Ernle Bradford and writer Nigel Dennis. “I, luckily, was architect to almost all of them, and many became very good personal friends. Basil Spence became almost a surrogate father after my father died, and Victor Pasmore became a very close bosom friend – we used to go out to lunch every alternate Monday,” Prof. England smiles, delving into a series of amusing anecdotes which light up his face.

M E E T T H E LO C A L S

The Neolithic Temples, which predate the pyramids, are unique and extraordinary. We know where they came from – a settlement called Selinunte in Sicily – and those responsible somehow settled here and developed an architectural typology which hardly exists anywhere else. “I learned so much from them,” he continues, making reference, among others, to Basil’s teachings on the importance of drawing. “I still believe that the bridge between mind and paper is best crossed by the hand, despite today’s sophisticated technological tools,” he muses. “It was an extraordinary gift – what better masterclass can you get than sitting and talking with these people of immense importance on a personal basis?” Santa Lucia

Concerns about the current state of affairs of the Maltese islands draw him out of his reverie, and his demeanour changes. Lamenting on the overdevelopment of the island in recent years, Prof. England says, “we seem to be living in an age where we know the price of everything and the value of nothing, and therefore everything is measured in monetary terms. The real ‘spirit of place’ of the island is being deteriorated.”

knew. “It’s inherent inside you. And what we don’t realise is that, as the world becomes more of a global village, the places which had an intrinsic value – both emotional and monetary – will be the places which have retained their original spirit of place.” For Malta, the situation is a precarious one, the architect believes, but all is not lost. “We need to re-establish our values and protect what is left of the essential spirit of place here in Malta.”

“In architecture, one of the most important things is memory,” he notes, explaining that people feel at home when they have a mnemonic retention of something which they knew, or their forefathers

Speaking of what makes the island inherently special, Prof. England says that Malta is particularly interesting because of its location in the centre of the Mediterranean, noting that, from its early prehistoric days, the temples would have made it the equivalent of a Lourdes or Vatican City today.

Aquasun Lido, St Julian’s, Malta

“The number of temples built within what was a very limited population indicates that Malta was probably a sacred island. The Neolithic Temples, which predate the pyramids, are unique and extraordinary. We know where they came from – a settlement called Selinunte in Sicily – and those responsible somehow settled here and developed an architectural typology which hardly exists anywhere else,” the architect maintains, adding that their use of materials like obsidian and glass 042

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built by people for whom the land seems to have been more valuable and had more meaning, even going back to the Neolithic period. This is one of the major world problems today – we seem to have developed an attitude where we feel that we dominate nature, when in fact we are just a very small part of it.” As you walk through Malta’s old villages, he continues, you’ll notice the narrow streets, which showcase an architecture that is primarily built as a defence against climate and possible invaders. “The architecture is meandering and introverted; the houses have internal courtyards. And, as you make your way through these narrow paths, you often just get a glimpse of the dome, which lures you to the centre of the town or village,” he says, explaining that this is what architecture should be about – surprise, and allure. “This wayfinding is something that I also try to incorporate into my architecture – something that draws you from one area to another.” Villa La Maltija, Malta

indicates that they travelled to and from the island, yet the typology developed here is unique. These early settlers also utilised one sole building material which has carried on throughout the centuries: limestone. Malta’s location also colours the island’s vernacular architecture, which forms a large part of what identifies Malta, Prof. England illustrates. “When you look at a typical Maltese village skyline, you have houses characterised by flat roofs, which come from a typology which is probably North African, and then in the centre of the village, you have this bulbous Baroque Italian parish. It is truly an architecture which reflects the geographic position of the island – part of it coming from the north, and part of it from the south, and that makes it absolutely unique.” It is this wonderful amalgamation that we really need to preserve, he maintains, musing, “it is an architecture

Asked what he considers to be the most notable architectural landmarks on the Maltese islands, Prof. England starts off with those relating to the Neolithic period, affirming that there is simply no equivalent. Then, Valletta and Mdina certainly make his list, as well as a number of other noteworthy additions that are a little more off-the-beaten-track. “In Malta, the little church of the Madonna tal-Ħlas in Żebbuġ is lovely, as well as the old church dedicated to the Assumption of Our Lady in Birkirara, by Tumas Dingli. I would also recommend visiting some of the old villages like Ħal Safi, and the piazza in Siġġiewi, which is absolutely marvellous. There are also two piazzas in Gozo – that of Għarb and of the little village of Santa Lucia, which I consider to be one of the most unique architectural spaces on the islands,” he maintains. “Paul Valery in his book, Eupalinos or The Architect, defines three types of buildings, those that are mute, those that speak, and those – rarest of the lot – that sing. These are the areas that sing.”

[Malta’s vernacular architecture] is truly an architecture which reflects the geographic position of the island – part of it coming from the north, and part of it from the south, and that makes it absolutely unique. 045

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INTERESTED IN

INVESTING IN

MALTA ? R EAD O N

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MALTA – A BUSINESS AND FINANCIAL SERVICES HUB IN EUROPE

ince Malta joined the European Union almost 20 years ago, and later adopted the euro, the islands have become a major jurisdiction for business and investment, particularly in the fields of financial services and gaming, as well as shipping and aviation registration.

ALL ABOUT SETTING UP A BUSINESS IN MALTA With a well-established regulatory environment based on EU law, a favourable tax regime, attractive Government incentives and a well-educated and highly motivated workforce, Malta can be a very appealing place for a foreigner to set up a business. Doing business in Malta does not only mean access to trade in the EU, but also access to Africa and the Middle East, as Malta has developed healthy business ties and beneficial fiscal agreements with various countries in these two regions too. For those who wish to start a business in Malta, there are seven stages to keep in mind:

Over the decades, Malta has also evolved into a trans-continental hub for trade, a popular tourism destination and a top performer in high-tech industries such as high value-added manufacturing, aviation maintenance, financial services and iGaming, cryptocurrency, and Artificial Intelligence. This high-paced activity has attracted an influx of expats, who contribute to render the social and economic landscape truly exciting, diverse and cosmopolitan – could you be the next to join?

1. AND SETTING UP A LIMITED LIABILITY

DECIDING BETWEEN SELF-EMPLOYMENT COMPANY

Whether you’re searching for a fresh start in life, or simply looking to grow your business, Malta could be the stepping stone you’ve been waiting for. But before you make the move, here are some things you need to know.

A limited liability company gives your business a more trusted face and protects you as a shareholder in case of defective products or law suits. On the other hand, there are more bureaucratic steps to follow when creating such a 048

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DOCUMENTATION TO THE MALTA 4. PRESENTING BUSINESS REGISTRY

The filled-in company registration form, together with the memorandum and articles of association, and the share capital deposit slip need to be presented to the Malta Business Registry. Registration is done within two to three days and the registration fee depends on the size of the company.

LICENCES AND A TAX 5. OBTAINING IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

Once the trade name is approved and the memorandum and articles of association are filed with the Malta Business Registry, the company is almost ready to start operating. However, before that, one must also check if any special licences are required. Furthermore, each business in Malta must have a tax identification number. While this is free of charge, once a year you will need to fill in a tax return form. This is another step where the assistance of a trusted accountant, audit or legal firm is invaluable.

A VAT NUMBER AND PE 6. GETTING NUMBER

You also need to register with the VAT Department to obtain a VAT number. Furthermore, if you have a limited liability company and you intend on hiring personnel, you also need to register as an employer and obtain a PE number. Both steps are free of charge and can be carried out online.

company (as opposed to starting a business as a selfemployed person), such as undergoing an annual audit, so make sure your business is viable before registering it as LTD. You need to be at least two shareholders to register a company.

7. REGISTERING WITH JOBSPLUS

2. PREPARING FOR REGISTRATION

If you are going to proceed with a limited liability company, then you need to draft the company’s memorandum and articles of association. These documents are important for registration, but they also detail what the company, its shareholders and its directors can and cannot do. It is important to identify the right legal firm, accountancy and audit firms, as well as business consultants to guide you during this stage.

THE MINIMUM SHARE 3. DEPOSITING CAPITAL

Every company needs some capital to start off, however small. As a new business owner, you need to open a bank account in the company’s name and inform the bank that you are depositing your share capital. The money will go into a holding account until the company is properly registered. The receipt issued will need to be presented in the next stage.

Jobsplus is responsible for all employment registration in Malta. You need to fill in a form for each employee upon registration, and again upon termination of each employee. The process is quick and free of charge. Government department Business First can help you with all of these steps, and can be easily reached through their website, www.businessfirst.com.mt, or over email.

ABOUT MALTA Population

Forecast GDP Growth

As at end 2021 according to the National Statistics Office

According to the European Commission’s forecast published in May 2022

516,000 Area

316 km2

Unemployment Rate

Currency

As at May 2022 according to the National Statistics Office

Euro 049

4.2 per cent

3.1 per cent

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FINDING THE RIGHT PROPERTY

commercial spaces have seen less of a spike in prices, but as with homes, are largely dependent on location. • Most people start their search through a property agency, of which there are countless ones on the island. Some specialise in commercial properties, others in residential. It’s worth noting that many properties are listed with several estate agents, so you may end up viewing the same property several times if you’re not careful.

Once you’ve decided to move to Malta, you’ll set about finding the perfect property for you and your family, or the new headquarters for your business. But what will that involve? • The cost of living in Malta remains lower than most European countries, but rent has become more expensive in recent years. You can expect to pay at least €800 for a flat in a central part of the island, and far more if it’s in one of the more in-demand locations such as Sliema or St Julian’s. Office or

• Once you’ve viewed a few different properties, settled on one that you want to buy, and your offer has been accepted, you will be asked to sign a promise of sale, known in Maltese as a konvenju. This is a legally binding agreement between you and the seller, and will involve a notary public. • At this point you are obliged to pay 1 per cent of the 5 per cent provisional stamp duty. The total sum is payable upon completion of the sale. You will also need to pay a deposit which is usually around 10 per cent of the agreed sale price. • You don’t need a permit to buy a house here unless it’s a secondary residence. But if you are not a citizen of an EU country, then you will need an Acquisition of Immovable Property in Malta by Non-Residents Permit (AIP). • You must also obtain a permit if you are considering renting your property as a holiday home, and any earnings must be declared to the authorities for tax purposes.

WHERE SHOULD I LIVE? While Malta is a tiny island, slow-moving traffic during peak hours, reliance on private cars, and vast differences between one area of the island and another make it necessary to think deeply about what you want from your new hometown. Here’s a guideline of what to expect from different parts of Malta.

SLIEMA AND ST JULIAN’S

The natural choice for most expats. These two towns have a large expat community, an exciting social life, and are close to many businesses and places of work. However, they’re the most expensive addresses in Malta, and if you’re looking for a quiet place to settle down, they’re probably not it.

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be for you. Having your own transport becomes essential in this case, and learning at least a few words and phrases in Maltese will endear you to the local, close-knit community.

GOZO

Quiet, peaceful and with plenty of green spaces which Malta is sorely missing, the island of Gozo is accessible via a ferry that leaves Ċirkewwa every 45mins. Since the commute may be tiring to do every day, it’s perfect for retirees, people who are planning to work from home, as well as a holiday residence.

SPOTLIGHT ON EMERGING ECONOMIC SECTORS In recent years, Malta has positioned itself as a prime destination for several tech companies looking for a secure, reliable and reputable jurisdiction to base themselves, drawing companies from a wide spectrum of digital and innovative sectors, ranging from blockchain to FinTech to Artificial Intelligence.

VALLETTA

The capital city of Malta has undergone a renaissance in recent years, and it is now one of the most exciting places to be. Most buses end their journey in Valletta, so the public transport here is excellent. However, be prepared to pay – it’s not cheap. The neighbouring suburb of Floriana may have more reasonably-priced options.

Speaking of blockchain, Malta was dubbed as the ‘Blockchain Island’ in 2018, being the first country in the world to issue a comprehensive set of regulations and guidelines on blockchain, Initial Coin Offerings, technology arrangements and financial assets. Today, it is reaping the results of this proactive stance through applications for FinTech and crypto companies to operate from the island, while also widening its scope to attract companies that operate in all corners of the digital space.

CENTRAL TOWNS SUCH AS BIRKIRKARA, ATTARD AND MOSTA

These areas are located in the middle of the island and have good transport links to most other towns and villages in the island. Prices are moderate, and they are mostly residential, perfect for raising a family.

BUĠIBBA AND MELLIEĦA

Plenty of expats – particularly from the UK – live in these towns. Since both of them can be considered resort towns, it’s worth noting that they get particularly hectic in summer with the influx of tourists, but are much quieter throughout the rest of the year.

Three bills were passed into law in 2018 which set up the Malta Digital Innovation Authority (MDIA) Act, the Innovative Technology Arrangements and Services Act (ITASA), and the Virtual Financial Asset (VFA) Act.

SOUTHERN AREAS SUCH AS MARSAXLOKK, MARSASCALA AND THE THREE CITIES

The MDIA acts as a communicator between key national bodies such as the Malta Financial Services Authority (MFSA), other relevant Government regulators such as the Malta Gaming Authority (MGA) and operators. It also regulates new and emerging technologies. The ITASA is geared towards regulating technology

The southern part of the island is worth considering if you’d like to live in a charming, traditional village or town. However, fewer expats tend to live here, so if you’re in search of a community of fellow emigres, this may not

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service providers, while the VFA Act regulates Virtual Financial Assets. Such laws limit the scope for fraudulent activity, provide certainty to investors, and also provide a legitimate legal framework in which operators can do business. Another economic niche creating significant buzz on the islands is Artificial Intelligence, backed by Government’s vision to put Malta on the map with a National Strategy for AI. This includes discussions on the subject with stakeholders to identify policy, regulatory and fiscal measures aimed at strengthening Malta’s appeal as a hub for foreign investment in this sector. In fact, Government’s strategy has been ranked 10th among 54 countries in the Global AI Index by Tortoise Media, surpassing countries such as Estonia, Sweden and Austria in its drive to adapt and embrace the rapid developments presented by these technologies.

to grow. If you would like to get a better feel for the industry and the network of people within it, keep an eye out for conferences and events on AI that typically take place in Malta between September and November. A regulatory push for all-things digital makes Esports another niche area with interesting investment options. The number of skilled software developers, graphic designers and IT proficient workers makes Malta an attractive option for investors. And with an exciting enough project, it should not be difficult to find skilled workers to fill the roles. With the global Esports industry projected to reach a global audience of 646 million people by 2023, it’s no surprise that Malta has opened its doors to Esports companies just as it did with gaming. While still a budding industry locally, Government’s commitment through ‘Malta’s Vision for Video Games Development and Esports’, launched in May 2019, is helping to propel this sector forward, with plans to grow it from 0.1 per cent to 1 per cent of the islands’ GDP in 10 years.

To date, the MDIA has certified five Systems Auditors (SA), the roles of whom are to audit the Innovative Technology Arrangements that an applicant proposes, including those concerning Artificial Intelligence.

Tying all this together is the Maltese Government’s plan and commitment to transform the country’s economy into a digital one in the coming years, enhancing ICT policy development and implementation that is intended to meet the expectations of citizens, civil society and businesses – and its efforts are paying off.

Meanwhile, local businesses are starting to make use of AI to trim costs, such as having a chatbot as the first point of contact for customer queries. If you’ve got a healthy risk appetite, investing in AI in Malta in these early stages could ultimately yield excellent results, before competition begins

In the EU’s most recent Digital Economy and Society Index (a composite index that summarises relevant indicators on Europe’s digital performance and tracks the evolution of EU member states in digital competitiveness), published in July 2021, Malta ranked sixth among 27 countries for its digital performance, which includes connectivity, human capital, use of internet, integration of digital technology, and digital public services. Placing ahead of Estonia, Luxemburg, Austria, Germany, Belgium, and many others, Malta is well-positioned to achieve its target of becoming a leader in the digital economy, creating a robust foundation for digital sectors to reap fruit.

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SUMMER STYLE, THE ISLAND WAY Four local fashion designers reveal their latest Spring/Summer collections and what inspired them, as well as their favourite summer spots on the islands to SARAH MUSCAT AZZOPARDI.

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Photo: Jamie Iain Genovese

SAZ MIFSUD Saz Mifsud is a fashion print brand focusing on digitally printed silk products, from ties and scarves to dresses. The brand’s key summer items are sarongs, kaftans, summer hats, tote bags and silk tops, silk designer Saz explains. “I wanted to use a fabric that was light and fresh for the sarongs and kaftans, so opted for a beautiful silk linen. The prints are inspired by the Sicilian island Panarea and its crystal-clear waters, its fig and lemon trees, and gorgeous bougainvillaea – elements synonymous with a Mediterranean summer,” she continues, sharing her inspiration. The most exciting piece from this year’s collection, however, is Saz Mifsud’s latest drop: the silk top. “These versatile little tops can be worn with a pair of jeans for a casual event, or dressed up with a silky skirt for a wedding or formal occasion. The straps can also be worn in different ways, allowing our playful customers to experiment with a variety of styling options, from a ‘90s style halter to crossed at the back for more support,” she smiles.

For Saz, summer in Malta means time spent with family and friends, either at the beach or barbecues at home, yet she also makes it a point to travel in the summer months, admitting, “I’m rarely in Malta for a long period of time.” When she is back home, you’ll likely find her at an indie party or gig, or at one of her favourite swimming spots, Xrobb l-Għaġin and St Thomas Bay in the south of Malta, or sitting at the little beach under Fort St Angelo in Birgu, watching Valletta as it lights up in the evenings.

A perfect summer’s day normally involves hopping onto a boat and spending the day (and if lucky, also the night) out at sea. 057

Asked to describe her ideal summer day, and night, she shares, “a perfect summer’s day normally involves hopping onto a boat and spending the day (and if lucky, also the night) out at sea with some hobz biz-zejt (literally translated to bread with oil, but is usually topped with other ingredients such as olives, capers, tomatoes, and tuna), a spritz, and most importantly, good company.”

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Photo: Justin Ciappara

CHARLES & RON Charles & Ron, self-titled after design duo Charles and Ron Van Maarschalkerweerd Borg, is widely considered among Malta’s most successful fashion brands, with international celebrities regularly appearing in their designs, and featuring on several international publications, campaigns and runways. Many Charles & Ron designs depict Maltese elements, and their Spring/Summer ‘22 collection is no different. The inspiration, they reveal, came from the traditional, hand-made fishing trap known as nassa. “The fascinating combination of netting and basketry that goes into the making of the nassa inspired a collection featuring Maltese and Mediterranean traditions that are unfortunately slowly disappearing,” they explain, further detailing that different types of nassa are used to catch different fish, with the specific nassa tal-arznell only used in Gozo.

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The fascinating combination of netting and basketry that goes into the making of the nassa inspired a collection featuring Maltese and Mediterranean traditions.

Describing the collection as one that is close to heart, the design duo single out several key pieces, including a turquoise striped gown, which features a nod to their very first collection, now considered vintage Charles & Ron, in the design of the top. “The striped print is inspired by the striped, colourful summer umbrellas you often see on the beach,” they say. Speaking of the beach, the pair reveal their favourite swimming spots on the Maltese islands to be on the sister isle: Marsalforn Bay and Xwejni Bay, in Gozo. In fact, Malta’s little sister is often where you’ll find them on their time off during the summer months. Finally, they share their recipe for the perfect summer night: “a lovely dinner, mainly fresh fish, in Marsalforn, followed by a chill stroll next to the bay.”

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Interestingly, each piece relates directly to the landscape and is named after a particular element. “To name a few, Bajtra is characteristic of the peripheral landscape that greets visitors to Ramla Bay, Ċafċifa is inspired by the beautiful waves that grace the shore, and Taflija reflects the magical colour combination of the sea as it meets the settled clay,” they say, going on to mention others including Mixta, which refers to another landmark spot in Gozo, L-Għar tal-Mixta, Narċis il-Baħar, which translates to sea daffodil, and Xtajta, inspired by the shore’s contrasting hues.

BAJJA BAJJA is a newly launched luxury beach and resort wear brand committed to creating collections that celebrate the beauty and richness of Malta’s colourful palette, landscape and heritage. The brand was founded by sisters Samaria and Vincienne, who are both architects. Their first Spring/Summer ’22 collection, Ir-Ramla l-Ħamra, is dedicated to the popular Ramla Bay in Gozo. “This 18-piece collection features unique designs and prints inspired by the natural beauty, colourful tones, textures and rich historical treasures that this landmark beach has to offer. The meticulously designed cuts, premium quality fabric and versatility in styling through multi-way or reversible concepts, are defining features of this collection,” they explain.

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Apart from their special bond with Ramla Bay, the sisters also love rocky beach spots around the islands, with Għar Ħanex, along the coastline of Qrendi, a favourite among these. “Although not easily accessible, we always manage to make a fun family adventure out of our way down to this peaceful spot, while admiring the beautiful panoramic views of the coastline,” they share. A perfect summer day for Samaria and Vincienne starts with an early trip to the beach, “when it is still calm and quiet, and the sun is a little less harsh,” followed by a beachside breakfast. “The rest of the day would be serene, spending quality time with our loved ones, watching a favourite series and even enjoying a late lunch and siesta in the afternoon, while later in the evening we would go for a cool walk and ice-cream treat along a promenade and a drive around the coast.”

The collection features unique designs and prints inspired by the natural beauty, colourful tones, textures and rich historical treasures of Ramla Bay.

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Photo: Ines Bahr

CARLA GRIMA ATELIER Malta-based fashion studio Carla Grima Atelier operates with a single vision: to capture nature’s luxury. Inspired by organic silhouettes and the colours of the Mediterranean, designer Carla explains that her latest collection, Holiday Home, is a fun story of a summer lover travelling to the Mediterranean with a suitcase full of bold prints and glamorous silks, styled for sunset cocktails by the pool and long lazy lunches with her girl friends. “It’s a sense of style freedom that we often feel when we pack to go on holiday. This collection explores some experimental colour contrasts, our widest print collection of ombre shades, a larger selection of reversible swimwear and newly launched activewear. Our silhouette for our resort silks is comfortable, as always, though less boxy and more draped,” she reveals.

Photo: Ines Bahr

Selecting standout pieces from the collection, Carla says the Erika kaftan has been quite a hit. “It is an elegant off the shoulder kaftan that I’ve wanted to add to the collection for quite some time,” she describes. The Susie slip dress is another she is excited about: “a simple bias cut silk slip which is a beautiful summer piece that displays all of our ombre prints and

I love the clay hills that hug the beautiful Għajn Tuffieħa beach and blue water; it’s always so magical.

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“I’d wake up at around 6am, head to the beach for a long swim in calm waters (usually Mellieħa or Golden Sands), and enjoy a cappuccino and croissant for breakfast. I would then meet up with my husband and daughter, and we’d sail to Gozo or Comino, find a quiet spot for a paddle or kayak adventure, followed by a salad lunch and an afternoon sail home,” she says, before moving on to the evening, which would include “a barbecue with close friends or dinner at a favourite Valletta spot, enjoying harbour views and a summer breeze before sneaking off for a gallery/exhibition visit.”

can be matched perfectly with a linen shirt or on its own.” On the swimwear front, she continues, “I love our reversible Lucia swimsuit, which has been quite popular when paired with our Gabi palazzo pants as a jumpsuit look.” Carla’s number one swimming spot in Malta is Għajn Tuffieħa, she says, though not just in summer. “I’m there every week, year round. In summer, my daughter, husband and I get there just after sunrise and leave before it gets busy. We love the clay hills that hug the beautiful beach and blue water, it’s always so magical. Xrobb l-Għaġin is another gorgeous spot that we don’t visit as often, as well as the far end of Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq.” Carla and her family spend their weekends sailing, which she says is the best way to enjoy all the hidden beach spots and appreciate the coastline. Her ideal summer day includes taking a day off during the week to enjoy a quieter island experience.

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THIS SEASON’S TOP PICKS F OR HER

Woven ribbon hat by Borsalino

Envelope medium bag by Saint Laurent

FF logo plaque slides by Fendi

Midi floral shirt dress by Twinset

F OR HIM Suede moccasins by BOSS

Federico Panama hat by Borsalino

Swim shorts by Dsquared2 Leaf print shirt by BOSS

SARTO, Ross Street, St Julian’s, T: 2202 1601 071

Photo: Brian Grech

A R T & C U LT U R E

A KALEIDOSCOPE OF COLOUR With a distinctly abstract style and a mastery for interpreting Maltese landscapes, JAMES VELLA CLARK’s vivid works are equally compelling in their obscurity and comforting in their familiarity. He chats to MARTINA BARTOLO PARNIS about the early years, his journey into the abstract realm and the parts of Malta and Gozo that inspire him.

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If one zooms into my landscapes, the painting becomes an abstract piece. I feel this unique merger is what best represents me and my style.

or as long as he can remember, James Vella Clark has had a deep fondness for drawing, which served him well as a tool to escape to a different world any time he wanted. Today, James is one of Malta’s celebrated expressionist artists, whose colourful and enthralling interpretation of local landscapes is at once recognisable, yet shrouded in mystery.

By the age of six, James had begun his journey of artistic exploration when he attended art classes at the Society of Arts in Valletta – fatefully, he lives next door to it today. “As with most people, my teenage years were very distracting, and I was more into music, and I played in a band. Then, in 1999, I started attending classes with the late Harry Alden, and I rediscovered my love for painting.”

073

A R T & C U LT U R E

It wasn’t until a chance encounter with a book of abstract landscapes of veteran landscape and abstract artist, Pawl Carbonaro, that triggered James to take up painting seriously, eventually leading to his first exhibition in 2001. “From then onwards, I kept painting and developing my style, exhibiting both in Malta and abroad.”

Photos: Inigo Taylor

The artist explains that he started venturing into the abstract realm in 2006, but his first major turning point occurred two years later, soon after he returned to Malta following his exhibition in New York, “where I had finally managed to view my favourite artists’ works, namely Franz Kline, Willem de Kooning and Mark Rothko. I came back totally charged and started working on a series of abstracts in which movement was the primary driver,” says James. “I worked on larger canvasses and I discovered the joy of letting go and letting the painting take you where it wants.” When he began exploring abstraction, James says that he was drawn to the endless possibilities he could explore. The more he painted, the softer his abstracts became. “Concurrently, I never abandoned my landscapes, because these will always represent my artistic roots. I kept developing my landscapes which too, eventually, started becoming more abstract and less structured,” says James.

Places such as Fawwara in Siġġiewi, Marsalforn in Gozo, the view of the Grand Harbour, and Marsamxett, where I spent most of my childhood summers, will always be recurrent views in my art.

075

“Today, my landscapes borrow from my abstract works and vice-versa. In fact, I like to say that if one zooms into my landscapes, the painting becomes an abstract piece. I feel this unique merger is what best represents me and my style. After all, art is a constant journey, and it is only when you look back that you realise where you’ve come from.”

A R T & C U LT U R E

From many vantage points across Malta and Gozo, church domes and steeples can be traced along the skyline, particularly in Valletta, where St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral and the Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel stand in iconic contrast to each other, creating a distinguishable view that is instantly recognisable. This same view can be identified in the artist’s work, who not only resides in the capital city but enjoys an affinity to it that is wonderfully reflected in his work. However, James asserts that he never paints the obvious, and most of his landscapes are “never anywhere in particular, but when you see them, you know it’s a Maltese skyline.” He adds that “up to a few years ago, churches and steeples dominated most of the villages’ skylines and I represented this in my paintings because it reflected the way religion and beliefs dominated people’s lives. The church and the steeple are also representative of the female and the male, so there is this constant play on dichotomy.” Still, there are specific views that he enjoys revisiting because they transport him back to specific points in time. “Such as the view from the top of Old Bakery Street in Valletta, which always reminds me of when, as a child, I walked it down with my father on my way to art class,” says James. “I also like to revisit certain views out of a curiosity to see how my interpretation would change. Places such as Fawwara in Siġġiewi, Marsalforn in Gozo, the view of the Grand Harbour, and Marsamxett, where I spent most of my childhood summers, will always be recurrent views in my art.” While the subject may be the same, the interpretation is different each time. James explains that what inspires him, or perhaps triggers him most, is the desire to interpret a view in a particular colour scheme. “But I must admit that over the past few years, a great inspiration has been British painter J.M.W Turner, whom I believe was the first true expressionist. His atmospheric landscapes, so soft and yet so powerful, have been haunting me for a long time now.”

Last year, James held a poignant exhibition, entitled ‘Twenty’, which included a collection of 20 paintings to mark the two decades since his first exhibition. Looking ahead to future events, the artist says his next exhibition will likely take place in 2025, and will be another show of large abstract works. “My landscapes, which have become smaller in size, are more intimate and therefore require a more particular setting. However, at the moment, most of my time is being taken up by private commissions. Once these are completed, I plan to start working on a set of new works.” James adds that, in the meantime, anyone interested to view his works is welcome to pay a visit to his home in Valletta, which is where his studio is located, for a first-hand experience of the artist’s environment and the views that ignite his imagination every passing day.

076

A R T & C U LT U R E

ISLAND HIGHLIGHTS The capital city is just one of the many places in Malta that James loves to explore. In summer, though, the artist explains that one of his favourite spots in Malta is the stretch of cliffs that overlooks Golden Bay in Mellieħa, which boasts beautiful sunsets, and Armier Bay for a swim. “In winter, I love the north of Malta – Mtaħleb, Kunċizzjoni, Baħrija, Miġra l-Ferħa and the cliffs in that area. I make it a point to visit these places on cold Sunday afternoons – I feel very inspired whenever I do.” “Gozo is also extremely beautiful in winter – it is much greener than Malta due to the predominant amounts of blue clay,” says James. “The area between Għasri and Żebbuġ is my favourite during the cooler months, while in summer, it’s Marsalforn, Xwejni or Mġarr ix-Xini for me.” Despite living in Valletta, James finds himself venturing towards Rabat when he’s in the mood to visit a place of cultural or historic importance. “Before I moved to Valletta, I was very close to acquiring a house in Rabat. I think this locality is particularly rich in history, and one can find so much concentrated in one area. From the catacombs to the Baroque churches up to the astonishingly vast network of shelters in the proximity of the parish church of St Paul, there’s always something new to discover in Rabat.” He also recommends a visit to the Wignacourt Museum in Rabat to view a fascinating collection of art. Notwithstanding this, “St John’s Co-Cathedral, the Church of St Francis of Assisi, the Church of the Jesuits and the Church of St Augustine in Valletta are home to exceptional works of art and absolutely worth a visit.”

St John’s Co-Cathedral, the Church of St Francis of Assisi, the Church of the Jesuits and the Church of St Augustine in Valletta are home to exceptional works of art and absolutely worth a visit. 079

Speaking of the capital, James says that whenever he has the opportunity to take non-Maltese friends around the city, “I always make it a point to walk them down through East Street, to the waterfront and up to the Barakka Gardens using the Barakka Lift. I find it fascinating how much one gets to see in a short walk.” And it isn’t just the sightseeing that draws visitors to Valletta – you’ll find all kinds of food establishments, from cafés and fine-dining eateries to casual snack bars. “My only favourite Maltese snack would be a good, crispy toasted tuna ftira. I’m still on the hunt for the best ftira in Valletta so I cannot recommend anyone in particular. However, for a good snack in the heart of the city, I gravitate towards Frascati in Strait Street, Gourmet Café in Theatre Street, or 67 Kapitali on Old Bakery Street corner with Theatre Street. For a healthy and satisfying salad, No.43 in Merchants Street is by far the best.”

22 1

Legend

3 km

52 56 181

MALTA

L-Imtarfa

Il-Buskett

Ħal Luqa

Iż-Żurrieq 73

Il-Ħnejja (Blue Grotto)

7 11

71 73 74

Ħal Safi

15 21 202 203 212 N212 222 225

300

88 226

210

Ħal Far

210 82

X4 Birżebbuġa

6 88, 22

135

323

TD TD 30, 31 , 303

302

N301

Ix-Xgħajra

124

Pretty Bay

Delimara

Marsaxlokk Market

92,

124

303

303A

Il-Qala

303A

N301 301KEMMUNA 302 303 305 306 (COMINO) 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 323 330 311 308 312 310 322 TD31 301 303 303A 322 323 302 303 322 303 303A 302 305 313 308 307 322 306 330 TD30 309 301 302 303 323 305 306

1 2 3 4 13 13A N13 14 15 16 21 22 24 25 31 32 35 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 56 58 58A 61 62 63 64 71 72 73 74 80 81 82 83 84 85 88 90 91 92 93 94 122 130 133 238 250 260 TD10 TD13 X4 X300 Malta International Airport 117 119 135 201 X1X2 X3X4 Malta fast ferry connections 150 300 X133 2 3 4 124 213 238 Il-Birgu 80 81 82 119 210 X4 Birżebbuġa 74 201 Blue Grotto 31 45 48 186 203 N212 212 Buġibba / Il-Qawra 221 223 280 TD13 X3 41 42 101 221 222 X1 X1A Ċirkewwa Ferry 56 186 202 201 Ta’ Qali 52 56 181 201 Ħad-Dingli 223 225 44 101 201 Golden Bay 1 124 213 L-Isla 3 213 Il-Kalkara 61 62 63 64 74 110 120 121 135 Il Marsa 204 206 209210 218 226 X1/2/3/4 91 92 93 119 124 135 204 Marsaskala 81 85 119 210 TD10 Marsaxlokk 22 31 32 106 110 117 120 X1/X1A/X2 Mater Dei Hospital 121 122 135 181 182 204 206 209 201 238 250 260 280 210 218 226 201 233 50 51 52 53 56 109 109A 181 L-Imdina / Ir-Rabat 182 186 201 202 X3 41 42 49 101 221 222 250 Il-Mellieħa X1/X1A 44 101 201 238 L-Imġarr 13 13A N13 14 15 16 21 120 Tas-Sliema 202 203 N212 212 222 225 233 X2 81 82 84 88 206 Ħal Tarxien 71 73 74 117 201 218 Iż-Żurrieq

Valletta

MALTA - Index of places served

Marsalforn L-Imġarr In-Nadur Il-Qala Ir-Ramla Ta’ Sannat Santa Luċija / Ta’ Kerċem Ta’ Pinu Church / L-Għasri Ix-Xagħra Ix-Xlendi Iż-Żebbuġ Ix-Xewkija Il-Munxar

Id-Dwejra

Kemmunett L-Għarb (Cominotto)

Ir-Rabat (Victoria)

N301 301 303 TD30 322 323 TD31 GOZO - Index of places served L-Imġarr

www.freytagberndt.com

St Thomas Bay

2 32

91 92 93 119 124 135 204 93

302 In-Nadur

303

GĦAWDEX (GOZO)

ction

Date: February 2022 © FREYTAG-BERNDT & ARTARIA KG, VIENNA

81 85 TD10 Marsaxlokk

81,119 ,

6 84, 20

5 13 9, 11

124

206 Marsaskala 84 Iż-Żejtun (Wied il-Għajn)

91, ,93

90,

Ħaż-Żabbar

94 120 121

Fort Rinella

323

Għajnsielem

Ix-Xewkija

302

Ramla Bay

Ta’ Kola Windmill Il-Ġgantija (Ġgantija Temples)

307

IL-BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)

Tarxien Temples Ħal Tarxien

204

92,93,94

120,121

150

Ħal Għaxaq

226

Il-Gudja

135

Santa Luċija

, 8 0 ,83

307 30 1 30 303 ,N3 01 2 , 32 3

305

307

310 322

Marsalforn Bay

Ix-Xagħra

N301 Ir-Rabat (Victoria)

3 Il-Kalkara

213

Il-Fgura90,91

3 1 21

Raħal Ġdid (Paola)

2,3,4

1 124 X1A 150 213 Bormla X133 (Cospicua)

Il-Birgu (Vittoriosa)

N13

Il-Belt VALLETTA

150 203

L-Isla (Senglea)

310

309 Marsalforn

Il-Munxar Ta’ Sannat

Tas-Sliema , 11

,16

,14

30,T

D30

313

Ta’ Kerċem 306,3

Il-Gżira 0 T D 2 3 15 Ta´Xbiex 13

Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum

1 15 20, 0

Il-Marsa

,73

Ħaġar Qim L-Imnajdra Temples (Mnajdra Temples)

Ħaġar Qim

Il-Qrendi

56 5 Tal-Pietà 8A

TD2 119 X1 X2 X3 X4 201 Malta Int. Airport 117 218 72 L-Imqabba

Is-Siġġiewi

62 209

San Ġwann

L-Imsida 50,54,

X1 X2 X3 X4 61 62 63 64 74 110 120 121 135 204 206 209 210 218 226

61,62

22 Il-Balluta 21

0,1

University 32 300 , Mater Dei Hospital

2,53

Ħal Qormi

San Ġiljan (St Julian’s) 1

X2 TD2 TD13

St George’s Bay 13A

306 330

313

30 31

308

Iż-Żebbuġ

L-Għasri

Santa Luċija

Ix-Xlendi Xlendi Bay

Is-Swieqi

109

Ras Bajjada

Ħaż-Żebbuġ

Ħ’Attard

58 58A 51,5

300 22

6, 300

233 16 25 35 2 2 38

Pembroke

1,1

Ħal Balzan Birkirkara

,182 181

0 ,1

202, 203

L-Iklin

41-49 203, 25 0,260 280 54

09A

Ħal Għargħur

46 260

N13 14 103 110 120 121

Id-Dwejra

311

San Lawrenz

Azure Window

312

L-Għarb

Ta’ Pinu

80,82 , 85

Għar Lapsi

Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq T

X1 X1A X2 22 25 31 32 106 110 117 120 122 135 181 182 204 206 209 210 213 218 226 233 238 260 280

5 17,13

109 109A

186

, 56 50,52,5 3

202

X1A

In-Naxxar Mosta Dome Il-Mosta

106 54

Ta’ Qali

Buskett Gardens

Ir-Rabat

53 186 201 202

L-Imdina

182

186

X 1,

N 21 2 12, 2 , 22 2, 2 25

Is-Salina

Il-Qawra

Tarġa Gap

Ta' Qali National Stadium

Burmarrad

X1,X

Il-Bidnija

44, 2

103

Il-Wardija

Ħad-Dingli

Dingli Cliffs

10 9

A X1

San Pawl il-Baħar (St Paul’s Bay)

Buġibba

X3 31 45 48 TD13 186 203 212 N212 221 223 280

Selmunett (St Paul’s Islands)

IL-BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)

BUS MAP

This map is to be used for personal/non-commercial purposes. Unauthorised reproduction is forbidden. For more information please contact us on publictransport.com.mt or 21222000

Rabat

10 9,

Ta’ Ħaġrat

101 238

Skorba Temples

Bus routes Bus routes only summer Number of bus route Place of departure/arrival Key bus stop Sales and information ofﬁce Bus interchange Tourist information Heritage site Place of interest Airport Hospital Ferry Beach

Il-Baħrija

109A 109

Il-Ġnejna

L-Imġarr

Ġnejna Bay

Il-Mellieħa

223, 2

Mellieħa Bay

44, 10

101

250

49 250

Għajn Tuffieħa

Golden Bay

44 223 225

101

L-Għadira

101

Popeye Village Il-Prajjet (Anchor Bay)

Paradise Bay

Iċ-Ċirkewwa

Ċirkewwa Ferry

202

X1 X1A 101 221 222

2 20 1,

6,18 52,5

54,106

181, 56

, 10 109

L-Armier 42 (Armier Bay)

218

62, 10 9 109 , A

25, 35

12 TD2

73, 1

X1,X

0 D1 6,T , ,22 ,84 ,82 8 80 5,8 8

9 30

0,2

201

1 13, N1 3

206

218

2, 5

TD2

305,30 ferr

D3 0,T 31 305 s tion nec yc on Fas t

5,48,186, X3 ,42,4 ,41 31 203,250,280 ,12

120

103 31

, 260 81,8

9, 2

0 ,25 16

124

2 22

B, ,X1

135

1A Fa cone

ġa Im L-

,X y st ferr

119

41,42 X1 303

rr y Fe

32 e Ferr y to Ċirk

11 9

VA L L E T TA M A P PLACES OF INTEREST

F WH

RY AR QU BA ST IO N

ST BA RB AR A

OLD MINT STREET

ST RE ET

SOUTH STREET

2 MELITA STREET

8 Upper Barrakka Gardens

ORDNANCE STREET

WIN DMIL L STRE ET

EE Y STR

ER B AT T

ST JOHN STREET

ST MARK STREET MELITA STREET

ST URSULA STREET

ST PATR IC K

ST G EO RG

E ST RE ET

ST LUCIA STREET

E AT

SIE

NE GR

EET

Hastings Garden

082

WEST STREET

Lower Barrakka Gardens

ST CHRISTOPHER STREET

OLD THEATRE STREET ET

Fort St Elmo

ARCHBISHOP STREET

ST DOMINIC STREET

ION Harbour

M XE TT

ST CHRISTOPHER STREET

M AR SA

Is-Suq tal-Belt

Grandmaster’s Palace & Armoury

ST NICHOLAS STREET

EET

St George’s Square

Teatru Manoel

STR

OLD HOSPITAL STREET

St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral

IA N

National Library

AST

EB ST S

St Paul’s Shipwreck Church

National Museum of Archaeology

NORTH STREET

Parliament Building

Pjazza Teatru Rjal

MUŻA M

11 12

Our Lady of Victory Church

ST PAUL STREET

Spazju Kreattiv

Auberge de Castille

GIR

MERCHANTS STREET

Saluting Battery

ST FREDERICK STREET

The Lascaris War Rooms

ST ZACHARY STREET

Valletta Waterfront

REPUBLIC STREET

St John’s Co-Cathedral

ST JOSEPH STREET

The Malta Experience

FOUNTAIN STREET

3 4

STRAIT STREET

Joseph Busuttil

STRAIT STREET

Palazzo Preca Restaurant

OLD BAKERY STREET

1 2