OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2014 €3 The official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association
A SHOWCASE OF MALTA
MUST ATTEND MODERN MUSIC DAYS 2014
11, 12 October & 30 November Cover Story
FROM HOLLYWOOD TO MALTA
The islands’ thriving world of film production
5 top things to do in Malta this autumn HERITAGE BIRGU: A MARITIME JEWEL GOZO Two expats on making Gozo home your guide to events | fashion | eating & drinking | shopping
THE ORIG INAL AM E RICAN BRAND
INSIDE
October & November 2014 EDITOR Isabel Depasquale PUBLISHERS Content House Group ADVERTISING Advertising Sales Executives Matthew Spiteri, Mark Barbara, Diane Scerri Advertising Sales Coordinator Lindsey Ciantar PRINTERS Progress Press Ltd Art Direction & Design Box Design - T: +356 9949 1418
page 26 12 Events
A list of the major events taking place in the months of October and November.
14 Cover Story
From Hollywood hills to the Maltese islands – The idyllic island of Gozo is currently the backdrop for Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt’s film By the Sea, their first onscreen collaboration since meeting on the set of Mr & Mrs Smith nine years ago. As the islands continue to attract big names, Martina Said delves into the exciting world of film production in Malta.
26 Must Visit
Birgu: A maritime jewel – No visit to Malta would be complete without a trip to the historic, foritified city of Birgu. Energetic mayor John Boxall shares his love for the charming city with Sarah Micallef. Horus and Anubis. See page 37
page 44
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Guide Me is published every two months in Malta. The magazine is the official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association. The publication is distributed free of charge in the individual rooms of three, four and five star hotels. Guide Me is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo and at the La Valette Club within the Malta International Airport (MIA). It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at The Valletta Waterfront and at MIA.
19 Things to Do
5 top things to do in Malta this autumn – Sarah Micallef lets you in on the best way to spend your vacation in Malta and Gozo at this time of year.
Photography Malta Tourism Authority, Heritage Malta, Malta Film Commission, Birgu Local Council
Cover picture: Joby Burgess from percussion electronica collective: Powerplant (UK)
Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me are not necessarily those of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association or of Content House Group and both organisations do not accept responsibility for editorial or advertising content. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.
There may be many grand places, but there is only one true Palazzo… Visit Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar. A Unique 19th Century Maltese Aristocrat’s Private Residence & Gardens with a delightful Garden Restaurant, Luna, which is open for lunch from Monday to Sunday, and for dinner Thursday to Saturday.
Golden Sunsets & Moonlit Evenings
Enjoy an Aperitivo with your friends or choose to savour an exquisite dinner in the unparalleled luxury of our Gardens.
House & Garden Visits: Daily from 9am until 5pm
Luna The Restaurant - Tea Room - Boutique Gifts - Audio Guided Tours 29, VICTORY SQUARE, NAXXAR - MALTA • WWW.PALAZZOPARISIO.COM
INSIDE
October & November 2014 37 History
Discovery of the oldest shipwreck in the Mediterranean – Sarah Micallef sheds light on the Phoenician shipwreck discovered recently just a mile off Gozo.
42 Fashion
Get set for the new season – This year’s top autumn trends and how to wear them.
47 Where to Spend It
If you intend to shop in Malta, make sure to visit these shops.
51 Gozo
Making Gozo home – Jo Caruana meets two colourful expats who have made the tranquil island of Gozo their home.
57 Cuisine
Food for the soul – There’s nothing heartier than a warm plate of soup on a chilly autumn day. Martina Said finds out about the history and survival of some traditional local soups still prepared in several Maltese homes and restaurants.
63 Eating & Drinking
Some tips on where to wine and dine.
69 Nightlife
Music of the night – Jo Caruana lists her pick of a variety of musicrelated events taking place during your stay.
FOREWORD
A
new season tends to bring with it a dose of excitement. Although autumn signals the end of long, lazy days by the sea and long nights of partying, sipping cocktails and catching up with friends, which will admittedly be sorely missed, the new season gives the island a highly anticipated new lease of life. This issue of Guide Me brings to the fore this sense of energy that is typical of this time of year by shedding light on the fun and interesting things to experience during your stay and by introducing you to a number of dynamic people whose zest for life is evident in all they do and say; from the forward-
ISSUE
57
OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014
Welcome to the Maltese islands!
Birgu Waterfront - viewingmalta.com
looking Film Commissioner to the tireless mayor of the beautiful city of Birgu and to two determined expats who have made the scenic island of Gozo their home. There are other great reads to be enjoyed, including Sarah Micallef ’s piece on a recent discovery of a Phoenician shipwreck just off the coast of Gozo (see page 37), believed to be the oldest shipwreck in the Mediterranean. Scholars and history buffs are fascinated by the discovery as it should shed light on a period in Malta’s history which is relatively unknown.
Feeling peckish? If you’re keen on trying out some local soups, turn to page 57 to find out what to expect on local menus. If, on the other hand, you want to be bang on trend this season, read the fashion article on page 42 and discover which looks have made it to the catwalks. Enjoy your visit
Isabel Depasquale EDITOR
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2014 October 01 October-31 January 2015 Malta – The Great Story of a Small IslandNation Through 100 Objects – Explore the history of Malta from its geological formation, 35 million years ago, to the more recent EU accession through 100 objects. The story is told almost exclusively through objects, artefacts – things that humans have made, and ecofacts – things found in nature. Venue: National Museum of Archaeology, Republic Street, Valletta. www.heritagemalta.org
03 October Charlie Siem with the MPO – The Manoel Theatre’s season opening concert will host young and talented violinist Charlie Siem with the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra. The concert will include Beethoven’s Egmont Overture op. 84, Bruch’s Violin Concerto No.1 in G Minor op. 26 and Saint-Saens’s Introduction and Rondo Capriccioso in A Minor op. 28. Venue: Manoel Theatre, Valletta. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
performances, while the open-air streets and piazzas will showcase some of the finest local and international musicians and dancers. Cafés and restaurants will be open until late with further food stalls and tables occupying the streets. All of Valletta, from City Gate to Fort St Elmo, will come alive, guaranteeing a memorable night that truly holds something for everyone. www.nottebianca.org.mt
05, 12, 26 October In Guardia Parade – The In Guardia Parade is a re-enactment that portrays an authentic event that took place regularly inside important military fortifications in Malta and Gozo. During the re-enactment, the soldiers and knights of the fort’s garrison – some 55 re-enactors – are kitted-out in their finest uniforms and perform a military drill demonstrating to the Grand Bailiff the garrison’s state of readiness in the event of a military threat. The show starts at 11am and lasts 45 minutes. It will be held at St John’s Cavalier (close to Couvre Porte), in Birgu (Vittoriosa). www.visitmalta.com
09-12 October
King of the Kings Drifting Superfinal – This special, stand-alone event involves one race and one winner: the King of the Kings, making Malta the home of European drifting for one weekend. Venue: Montekristo Estates, Siġġiewi. www.mkleisure.com
Mdina Grand Prix – The Mdina street track, set in the idyllic countryside beneath the imposing bastions of the old capital city, will be host to the Mdina Grand Prix, promising a magical weekend of classic car racing and various cultural and other activities. www.mdinagp.com
04 October
10-12 October
03-05 October
Notte Bianca – Notte Bianca is the largest annual event in Valletta, which fuses arts with entertainment, and high culture with street culture. State palaces and museums will open their doors to delight patrons with visual art exhibitions and theatre
Birgufest – This event, that takes place in Birgu, one of Malta’s oldest and most historic cities, offers numerous activities including historic re-enactments, extended and cheaper museum entrances, and the opening up to the public of other venues
of interest including churches. In addition, visitors may expect food stalls offering both Maltese and other food, various musical concerts – ranging from classical to modern – and several exhibitions.
11 October Il Trovatore – Aurora Opera House in Gozo presents Giuseppe Verdi’s Il Trovatore. Il Trovatore has it all – a brave hero, a selfless heroine, an evil villain and, above all, four acts brimming with splendid music and some of the best-loved arias ever written by Verdi. Venue: Aurora Opera House, Rabat, Gozo. www.teatruaurora.com
11-12 October Modern Music Days – A new initiative committed to promote the performance and understanding of 20th century and contemporary music in Malta. Saturday 11 October: Powerplant (UK) at Manoel Theatre, Valletta, at 8pm. Percussion and eletronic collective led by British percussionist Joby Burgess, incorporating sound design by Matthew Fairclough and visuals by Kathy Hinde. Sunday 12 October: Modern Music Days – Choir & Organ (UK/Malta) at St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral, Valletta, at 8pm. Featuring organist Glen Dempsey and choir Schola Cantorum Jubilate. Works by Leonard Bernstein, Benjamin Britten, Bob Chilcott, Philip Glass, David Lang, Olivier Messiaen, Christopher Muscat, John Tavener and Ruben Zahra. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
11-12 October Malta Military Tattoo – The Malta Military Tattoo is a major annual attraction, and is a reflection of Malta’s military music heritage. The event has earned a well-deserved reputation for offering its audiences an exciting and vibrant blend of music and performances by a Maltese and international line-up of talent. This unique gathering of performers from various countries continues to be a yearly highlight in the local calendar. The Malta Tattoo is a pleasant conclusion to the Maltese
For the full online Malta Calendar of Events please go to: www.visitmalta.com/events-calendar
festive season in which band clubs have the lion’s share of the entertainment. Venue: Malta Fairs and Conventions Centre, Ta’ Qali. www.maltamilitarytattoo.org
15 October Choral Concert – A joint concert by the Skanderborg Kammerkor of Denmark and the St Paul Choral Society. Music includes pieces from Schubert, Rutter, Gade, Lange-Muller, Ahlen, Nielsen, Schulz, Handel, Palestrina, Bach, Jenkins and Rachmnaninov. Admission is free. Donations towards the Cathedral Organ Fund will be appreciated. Venue: St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral, Valletta. Time: 7.30pm.
31 October MPO Concert Series – Concert 1 – French conductor Jean Marc Burfin opens the MPO Concert Series at Teatru Manoel with an enticing programme of works featuring Bartok’s Hungarian Pictures and Ravel’s unusual Piano Concerto for the Left Hand Harp concerto with Maltese pianist Charlene Farrugia. Dvorak’s cheerful and optimistic Symphony No 8, which occupies the second half of the programme, was composed in 1889 on the occasion of his election to the Bohemian Academy of Science, Literature and Arts. Venue: Manoel Theatre, Valletta. Time: 8pm.
November
17-18 October Qormi Bread Festival and Lejl f’Casal Fornaro – The Bread Festival (17 Oct), and Lejl f’Casal Fornaro (18 Oct) offer several cultural, social and entertaining activities in the village of Qormi, renowned for its breadmaking heritage. www.casalfornaro.com
19 October Alarme – Alarme is a military re-enactment that portrays the historic and turbulent tenure of Malta by French troops, following Napoleon’s landing and conquest of the islands in 1798. The re-enactment starts at 11am and lasts 45 minutes, and will be held at St John’s Cavalier (close to Couvre Porte), in Birgu. Tickets may be purchased at the gate. www.visitmalta.com
23 & 25 October Nabucco – Astra Theatre in Gozo will present Giuseppe Verdi’s immortal Nabucco – a tour-de-force and one of Verdi’s most popular operas, not least because of the leading role of the choir. Venue: Astra Theatre, Rabat, Gozo. www.teatruastra.com
02, 09, 16, 23 November In Guardia Parade – See left for description.
17-23 November Żigużajg Festival 2014 – Żigużajg 2014 will mark the 25th anniversary of the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child, a treaty which speaks of the fundamental right of each and every child to access culture and participate actively in creativity. The festival will present an eclectic programme of international performances and commissioned work to thousands of Maltese children, young people and their families. www.ziguzajg.org
21 November Choral and Orchestral Concert – The St Paul Choral Society, a leading polyphonic choir in Malta, is presenting a Choral and Orchestral Concert in honour of St Cecilia, featuring music by Charles Gounod under the direction of Dr Hugo Agius Muscat. The programme includes the Messe Solennelle de Sainte Cécile, one of the most beautiful and best known choral and
orchestral compositions by Gounod. Admission to the concert is free but donations to The Richmond Foundation are welcome. Guests are requested to refrain from wearing high heels in the Co-Cathedral. Venue: St John’s CoCathedral, Valletta. Time: 7.30pm.
28 November MPO Concert Series – Concert 2 – Malta Philharmonic Orchestra Principal Conductor Brian Schembri conducts Richard Strauss’ second Horn Concerto, which represents the composer’s first real concerto since the First Horn Concerto, written a full 60 years earlier in 1883. Closing the evening is Brahms’ Symphony No 4, a work which critics and academics consider by far to be a summation of its composer’s learning and technique, and a work of art that for all its complexities cuts as close to the heart as music can. Venue: Manoel Theatre, Valletta. Time: 8pm.
30 November Modern Music Days – Ensemble (Czech Republic/Malta) – Musicians from the Brno Contemporary Orchestra in collaboration with local musicians. Conductor: Pavel Šnäjdr. Works by Pierre Boulez, Guillaume Connesson, Trevor Grahl, György Ligeti, Witold Lutosławski and Iannis Xenakis. Venue: Robert Samut Hall, Floriana. Time: 8pm. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
COVER STORY
From Hollywood hills to the
Maltese islands
Captain Phillips – Photo by Jasin Boland © 2013 Columbia Pictures Industries, Inc. All Rights Reserved
T
he latest in a string of hugely successful Maltafilmed productions currently in the process of filming in Gozo, By the Sea has taken the local and international media by storm. Martina Said chats with Malta Film Commissioner Engelbert Grech about the flourishing local film industry and its ever-growing resumé. 14
The Maltese islands have been hosting foreign productions as far back as the 1920s – one of the earliest feature films being Sons of the Sea in 1925. Since then, the islands have doubled up for numerous different countries in the Mediterranean and Middle East, as well as for a multitude of regions, and many productions have also filmed fictional and historical places. Following the filming of a string of
blockbuster and highly-acclaimed films here in Malta, ranging from Ridley Scott’s Gladiator (2000) to Warner Bros’ Troy (2004) and beyond, Malta’s profile as a competitive filming location has gone from strength to strength. Some of the most recent films shot here include Captain Phillips (2013) starring Tom Hanks, which tells the true story of Captain Richard Phillips and the 2009 hijacking by Somali pirates of
COVER STORY the US-flagged MV Maersk Alabama, and The Devil’s Double (2011) starring Dominic Cooper, which portrays an unsettling vision of the House of Saddam Hussein that comes to life through the eyes of the man who was forced to become the double of Hussein’s sadistic son. Among a number of television series filmed here is the hugely popular epic fantasy series Game of Thrones, starring Peter Dinklage and Emilia Clarke, which portrays the stories of seven noble families fighting for control of the mythical land of Westeros. However, the most recent project currently being filmed in Gozo has been receiving its fair share of publicity both locally and overseas, undoubtedly due to the fact that the actors in the lead roles are none other than Hollywood’s favourite couple, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, who recently got married in France just before they began filming in Gozo after their almost ten-year relationship. By the Sea is the first onscreen collaboration between the two actors since meeting on the set of Mr & Mrs Smith in 2005. Jolie also wrote the screenplay and is directing and producing the film, which is a romantic drama and portrays the story of a couple caught in a marriage that is collapsing on itself. The official synopsis of By the Sea, published recently by Entertainment Weekly, reveals that the film is set in France during the mid-1970s, where Jolie plays Vanessa, a former dancer, and Pitt is her husband Roland, an American writer. As they travel the country together, they seem to be growing apart, but when they linger in one quiet, seaside town they begin to draw close to some of its more vibrant inhabitants, such as a local
World War Z – Photo by Jaap Buitendijk © 2013 Paramount Pictures. All Rights Reserved
By The Sea – Production currently being shot at Mġarr ix-Xini, Gozo. Copyright: Entertainment Weekly/Merrick Morton
Engelbert Grech - Malta Film Commissioner
bar/café-keeper (Niels Arestrup) and a hotel owner (Richard Bohringer). As a kind of found-family is assembled amid these maritime dwellers, histories are shared – some joyful, some mournful – and the couple is swept up in their stories, changing the way they look at each other. Filming in the scenic bay of Mġarr ix-Xini in Gozo began in September and is expected to continue
until mid-November, during which time the bay is closed to the public. Malta Film Commissioner Engelbert Grech says that this production should undoubtedly help attract more projects to the islands in the future. “Having the most popular couple in Hollywood here definitely helps raise our profile. When major producers look at Malta and see that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie chose Gozo to shoot their film there, it shows that the big Hollywood studios believe in Malta. That alone serves as a good introduction when ➜ 15
COVER STORY negotiating with future producers and directors, and is one major coup that we succeeded in achieving.” This eagerly anticipated film, however, is not the only production currently being filmed on the islands. Mr Grech says that, for the first time ever, the country is hosting four major international productions at the same time. “Besides By the Sea in Gozo, filming is ongoing for Clavius, which is a Roman epic directed by Kevin Reynolds, starring Joseph Fiennes and Tom Felton; an American TV series for CBS, based in the Middle East and is very heavy on set construction; and Andron, an Italian feature film which also boasts very good actors. I’m proud to say that besides these four big international productions, we also have two Maltese feature films in production: Limestone Cowboy, produced by Take Two, and Phobia. “With the wave of international productions we’re attracting, we can transfer the skills acquired on the foreign productions to the local indigenous industry, and that is ultimately a key element to building a proper film industry, where even if there are no foreign productions currently being filmed, we can generate our own films and series for international distribution.” In recent years, in fact, the number of productions being filmed here has been somewhat sporadic – very active periods are followed by significant low periods. “Malta did have spikes of activity for some years, but there wasn’t the vision to create a proper film industry, meaning consistent work throughout the years that guarantees a career in films. We want a sustainable industry, so, the Film Commission is building the structures to guarantee consistent employment, 16
Limestone Cowboy
luring back-to-back projects that will entice people to make a career within the film industry.” There are numerous advantages that attract productions to Malta over other competitive locations, one of the main ones being the good financial incentives offered, whereby productions can benefit from a rebate up to 25 per cent of eligible expenditure, with an additional two per cent if the production features Malta’s culture. “But that is not all,” says Mr Grech. “It is useless having good financial incentives without having the good crews to service films, and so, we are designing courses to
train more people in various areas of this industry. We have brilliant locations, but we have to make them accessible, which is where the Commission steps in to make producers’ and directors’ lives easier. At the Commission we do our utmost to facilitate as much as we can on the processing of visas and other relevant permits, cutting through red tape to ensure a fast approach and ultimately to serve the industry to the best of our ability. The industry requires a very fast turnaround, so fulfilling the vision that we have of creating a proper film industry is central in attracting more productions to the islands.”
Filming of Troy – Photo by Warner Bros Ent.
THINGS TO DO
5 top things to do in Malta
this autumn
Fawwara flora - Pauline Dingli/viewingmalta.com
I
n our corner of the world, the sun shines all year round, but the milder temperatures of autumn set the perfect scene for a great holiday on the Maltese islands. Sarah Micallef highlights the top things to do in Malta and Gozo at this time of year.
Handheld guide Download the free iMalta app to help you find your way around the islands by suggesting the best places to visit and sights to see.
As the heat begins to die down on the sunny Maltese islands, activities it is nigh on impossible to do during the hot summer months can once again be enjoyed. While the hot sun prevents many a visitor and local alike from enjoying much of what the islands have to offer (apart from the beaches and beautiful Mediterranean Sea), the colder months provide the perfect conditions for numerous activities.
Go back in time Most visitors to the Maltese islands come for two things: the beaches and the history. With the major tourist season over in autumn and winter, the myriad historical sites around the islands become a major draw, with outdoor locations certainly worth a visit due to the lack of crowds and hot sun. Going back to megalithic times,
heritage sites like Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra Temples in Qrendi, dating back to 3,600-3,200BC; Mnajdra Temples, constructed in the early Tarxien phase; and Għar Dalam in Birżebbuġia, where the earliest evidence of human settlement on Malta was found; as well as St Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat, Ħaġrat and Skorba Temples in Mġarr and Ġgantija Temples in Gozo are certainly worth a visit for the history buff. Going forward a few thousand years, the charming former capital city of Mdina in its current state dates back to medieval times (although evidence of settlements here go back to over 4,000BC) and is not to be missed, while current capital and UNESCO World Heritage Site Valletta, which is set to be European Capital of Culture in 2018, has many a story to tell ➜ 19
THINGS TO DO like diving and sailing. If you’ve got your sights set on exploring the deep, Malta boasts among the cleanest waters in the Mediterranean and a wealth of wrecks and marine life. If you’re more of a sailor, the competitive sailing months start now, and the mild weather within the next couple of months means that hiring a boat for a seaborne tour of Malta, Gozo and Comino is still very much on the cards. ➜
Mnajdra Temples - Clive Vella/viewingmalta.com
since its construction in the 16th century during the rule of the Order of St John.
Get active While the majority of the Maltese countryside dries out in summer, it once again becomes lush and green at this time of year, making it the perfect backdrop for a number of outdoor activities for nature lovers. If you like walking, the islands’ natural landscape has everything from spectacular cliffs overlooking the sea to shrub land and abundant valleys which you can explore, with most routes being dotted with specimens of the islands’ rich history, including prehistoric sites and countryside chapels.
Areas like Mellieħa, Dingli, Għar Lapsi, Fawwara, Wardija, the bays in the north, the fishing villages along the southern coast of Malta and Delimara Point make for perfect walking sites, as do Ta’ Dbieġi, San Lawrenz, the Ġordan Lighthouse near Għasri, Ħondoq ir-Rummien and San Blas valley on the sister isle of Gozo. The majority of these places also double as a gorgeous backdrop for activities like rock climbing and abseiling, mountain biking and even quad biking.
Dive in With the Maltese islands’ mild temperatures throughout the year, it rarely ever gets too cold to enjoy the water, particularly for water sports
viewingmalta.com
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THINGS TO DO Give the kids a treat If you’re travelling with kids, there are loads of attractions to visit and fun things to do on the islands. Top kid-friendly sites include the Mediterraneo Marine Park in Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq, Popeye Village in Mellieħa, the President’s Kitchen Garden in Balzan, the national aquarium in Buġibba and the Playmobil Funpark in Ħal-Far. Here you can take a tour of the factory to experience ‘The Smiling Faces In The Making’. The Playmobil funpark gives kids the opportunity to interact with Playmobil’s range of figures and playsets in a fun and safe environment. At the end of the factory tour you and your kids can assemble your very own Playmobil figure to take home with you. Due to high demand reservation in advance is highly recommended.
Boat race - Daniel Forster/viewingmalta.com
Mdina Ditch Garden - Aaron Briffa/viewingmalta.com
Street in Mdina Mario Galea/ viewingmalta.com
Enjoy the nightlife Autumn marks the start of a colourful cultural calendar in Malta, as theatre season kicks off and a large variety of events including festivals, gigs, parties and concerts are held on most weekends. The nightlife capital of the island is St Julian’s, with Paceville being the main entertainment hub for the younger generations and the regenerated capital city of Valletta coming in a close second. Sophisticated nightlife options are also available for a more upmarket crowd, such as Level 22 cocktail lounge bar and club, located at the very top of the Portomaso Tower in St Julian’s. Cocktail in hand, it’s definitely worth a visit if you’re after a chic night out. For more options on how to spend some music-themed evenings on the Maltese islands, refer to our ‘nightlife’ article on page 69.
Portomaso tower
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PLACES TO VISIT
Valletta Living History Valletta Living History is a high definition multi-lingual audio-visual show depicting the history, culture and lifestyle of Malta and the Maltese, showing everyday at the Embassy Complex in the heart of Valletta. Relive the Great Siege between the brave Knights and fierce Ottomans, the French and British rule, and World War II till today. Many recommend it as the best first stop when visiting Valletta. Open seven days a week with shows at 10, 10.45, 11.30am, 12.15, 1, 1.45, 2.30 and 3.15pm. Valletta Living History, Level 2, The Embassy Complex, St Lucia Street, Valletta. T: 2722 0071; W: www.maltaattraction.com
MDINA EXPERIENCE Take an unforgettable 30 minutes to experience Mdina’s fascinating journey through time. Relive Mdina’s 7,000 years of tragedy and triumph. The cult of the mother goddess, the shipwreck of St Paul, the medieval city half destroyed by an earthquake and gloriously rebuilt, Mdina defended by the fighting spirit of the Knights of St John – The Mdina Experience traces the fascinating story, thousands of years back. Open seven days a week from 10am to 4.30pm. Available in 12 languages. Mdina Experience, 7, Mesquita Square, Mdina. T: 2145 4322/2145 0055; E: info@themdinaexperience.com
KNIGHTS OF MALTA The Knights of Malta is a unique series of expertly captured scenes from the original tales of the life and times of the Crusader Knights. Discover how, in 1530, Grand Master L’Isle Adam entered the gates of the fortified city. An extraordinary achievement that depicts the energy of those who lived, fought and died in bygone centuries. Open seven days a week from 10am to 5pm. Available in 13 languages. 14/19, Casa Magazzini, Magazines Street, Mdina. T: 2145 1342; E: info@themdinaexperience.com Kindly ask for your special offer on block tickets.
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MUST VISIT
Birgu waterfront - Photo courtesy of Birgu Local Council
BirguA maritime jewel T
he old, fortified city of Birgu boasts a long history of maritime, mercantile and military activities. Despite years of underappreciation, the city has, over the past couple of decades, begun to flourish and come into its own once again. This is in no small part thanks to its mayor, John Boxall. Sarah Micallef discovers what it is about Birgu that has once again captured the imagination of visitors and investors.
26
The maritime city of Birgu, also known as Città Vittoriosa, situated on the south side of Grand Harbour in Malta, boasts a rich history, with the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Angevines, Aragonese and the Order of St John all having contributed toward its development. Something is afoot in its quiet streets however, with a number of regeneration and restoration projects breathing new life into the fortified city, celebrating
its unique story while bringing it into the modern world. Mayor of Birgu since 1994, John Boxall calls the city “an open museum, starting from Fort St Angelo on one end, to De La Salle College on the other.” He mentions the Couvre Porte gateway at the entrance of the city, the SiculoNorman window on Tramuntana Street and St Lawrence Collegiate church (built between 1681 and 1697) as but a few sites of historical
MUST VISIT significance within the small city, noting that the rich history of the area is marked by remains from the different periods and rulers of the time. Must visit sites within Birgu, according to Mr Boxall (although hard-pressed to mention just a few), include the Maritime Museum, which is the only one on the island: “it is well kept and well organised. The curators have made it their baby.” Others he cites are the Inquisitor’s Palace, Fort St Angelo and the Collacchio area – the historical centre of the town, characterised by narrow, winding streets – which has been undergoing repaving and relighting as a part of a large-scale restoration project of the Birgu fortifications. Aside from the long list of historical places of interest within Birgu, it is also, as the mayor calls it, “a live city; there is always something going on.” Indeed, various cultural activities are held in Birgu on a regular basis. Mr Boxall refers to the recent performance held along the city’s streets entitled ‘Qatt Ma Ninsa l-Birgu’ (I will never forget Birgu), in which “people split up into groups and moved along the city, speaking of life during the Second World War in Birgu,” he says. Next on the cultural calendar are the yearly Birgufest and Birgu by Candlelight, taking place between 10 and 12 October. Starting from Birgu by Candlelight, which sees the city’s historic and architectural beauty lit up by the gentle glow of thousands of candles, it has developed into a larger festival over the years, offering numerous activities from historic re-enactments, extended and cheaper museum entrances, and the opening up to the public of other venues of interest.
Couvre Porte - viewingmalta.com
The city’s regeneration over the years has come about as a result of a number of projects, among which is the restoration of the Auberge de France, which now houses the local council’s offices, and the restoration of the
Norman house viewingmalta.com
Birgu fortifications as part of the programme of projects co-financed by European Union funds. The selected projects (Valletta, Birgu, Mdina and the Gozo Citadel) comprise an investment of around €36 million spread over a period of seven years, with the Birgu faction encompassing the restoration and repair of the historic ramparts; recuperation of inaccessible areas of the fortifications; rehabilitation of the main ditch into a recreational and cultural area; the introduction of a new lighting system for the fortifications, and the repaving and relighting of the historical intra-mural area, known historically as the collachium. Another undertaking is the recent works on Main Street in front of the Inquisitor’s Palace as part of a case study amounting to over €3 million, and include street lighting and installation of services beneath the street, according to mayor Boxall. The works came with a strict completion date of 18 September, in time for a visit from the UK’s Prince William for the 50th anniversary celebrations of independence from Britain. ➜ 27
MUST VISIT The recent completion of the Cospicua Dock 1 project is another draw to the city and area in general. The erection of a 40-metre steel bridge linking the promenades of Senglea (or Isla) and Birgu in August marked the last phase of the Cottonera Waterfront Rehabilitation Project, through which the Dock 1 area, considered Malta’s oldest industrial zone, has been transformed into a recreational area. Next on the list for restoration is the Armoury palace built by the Order of St John, which once served as the first British Naval hospital in Malta. Its new calling will be one of global significance – as the headquarters of the International Institute for Justice and the Rule of Law (IIJ), established by G8 leaders at the G8 Summit in June 2013 to deliver training to implement counterterrorism practices being developed by the Global Counterterrorism Forum. With parts of it currently being used as offices for the Cottonera Rehabilitation Project and Heritage Malta, the building will be undergoing refurbishment to convert it into a modern training facility, which will also house the IIJ’s Executive Secretariat. With all this going on, it is no wonder that foreigners are increasingly purchasing and restoring property in Birgu. Mr Boxall mentions a few new additions to the city he’s had the opportunity to meet during his term as mayor, stating, “most recently a couple who are both professors from South Africa purchased property here, as well as a computer programmer from the US, a Dutch couple who restored Palazzo Vittoriosa, and a Belgian man who bought a home in Birgu and recently also bought a property to convert into a B&B. Birgu has become a locality which is not just sought after by ➜ 28
Grand Harbour - Clive Vella/viewingmalta.com
Inquisitor’s Palace Aaron Briffa/viewingmalta.com
Street in Birgu Luke Scicluna/viewingmalta.com
Maritime Museum Jürgen Scicluna/viewingmalta.com
MUST VISIT Maltese people living abroad, but by foreigners who see something in the city.” Asked what it is about Birgu that he loves most, mayor Boxall states simply, “the people. They are proud of their city, although this was not always the case.” He explains that when he was a student, there was a negative connotation tied to Birgu, as being an uneducated and rough area. “There was a stigma, which to a certain extent still exists, but the city has progressed in leaps and bounds, and the stigma has lessened significantly today, despite there still being a way to go,” he asserts. Known for being a hands-on and down-to-earth leader who doesn’t shy away from rolling up his sleeves and getting down to business (even manning a broom and sweeping the streets of his beloved city in the past), mayor Boxall states, “the secret was bringing all the residents on board. We work together to make decisions that will ultimately benefit everyone. It has always been my philosophy.” Despite his long term as mayor of a city he is still clearly very passionate about, he remains full of ideas and suggestions on how, in his own words, “not only to make Birgu better, but to make it the best destination it can be.” He lets me in on his next undertaking, which involves a proposal to bring the prestigious Trophée Bailli de Suffren yacht race – named after the 18th century French admiral Pierre André de Suffren de Saint-Tropez, who spent his early career in Malta where he received the title of ‘Bailli de Suffren’ from the Knights of St John – to Birgu. The mayors of St Tropez and Amalfi will be in Birgu for the Birgu by Candlelight event, at which mayor Boxall plans to propose that the yacht race leaving from St Tropez, with which Birgu is twinned, 30
Birgu by candlelight - viewingmalta.com
will go through the Amalfi Coast and end in Birgu. “This would bring some of the richest people in the world to Malta, and benefit both Malta and Birgu. The yachting sector is a strong one and it will serve as an investment in our country.” His tireless energy in celebrating Birgu’s unique character is testament to a truly special city that has been
overlooked and underappreciated in the past. “Visiting Birgu after 10pm, especially in winter, when the children are in bed and there aren’t many people on the street, you can feel the story. Walking in the Collacchio area, you feel as if something happened in this city,” he says. “Birgu is a jewel. We’ve come a long way, but there is still a long way to go.”
Fort St Angelo - Photo courtesy of Birgu Local Council
PROPERTY
Buying property in Malta
I
makes sense
f you are exploring the idea of buying a second home or relocating abroad whilst investigating the islands as one of your prime candidates, we would like to make life easier for you and provide a few reasons why buying a home in Malta makes a lot of sense. First off, in comparison to other main cities in Europe, property prices are still fairly reasonable. Now Malta is not London or Barcelona but it does have the perks of the healthy real estate market. Whereas most major countries are still recovering from the ravishing of their real estate market due to the global crisis, the Maltese islands were hardly affected. This was due to stringent banking practices and a solid foundation of homeownership in that over 90 per cent of Maltese prefer to own rather than rent their abode. According to a recent European Union report Malta was recorded as being one of the only
European countries where property prices were increasing, and at a rate of 3 to 5 per cent. In major developments where foreigners are known to purchase property, this has been recorded as being even higher than that. The fact that the English language is widely spoken in Malta is something that many people take for granted when they are factoring the advantages of
Malta. If you were to head to another resort in Europe you are bound to find a language barrier, whereas in Malta and Gozo this is non-existent. All contracts in Malta and Gozo are written in English and may be translated in your own language. Going back to the real estate market in Malta, if you purchase a property in one of the Special Designated Areas located in Malta or Gozo there is nothing restricting you from renting your property. The rental yield in these areas can be anywhere between 4 to 7 per cent. So, if you’re looking for a place in the sun which has the sea at your doorstep, the island lifestyle, Mediterranean cuisine, a hub for business that also has an attractive residency programme and a healthy real estate market, contact Jeff Buttigieg of RE/MAX Malta on 9947 5620 for further information or browse their website: www.remax-malta.com 33
TAKE NOTE
The Roman Inquisition in Malta
Exhibition at the Inquisitor’s Palace, Birgu
Witchcraft, magical spells, theft and profanation of the sacred and a myriad other curious episodes from the past are some of the themes of this fascinating exhibition. The exhibition explores the role of the Inquisitor as supreme judge of the Holy Inquisition and an Apostolic Delegate representative of the Papacy. Exhibits include authentic proceedings and magical sheets from the Cathedral Archives, Palace plans from the Vatican Archives and a number of books originally belonging to the Inquisitor’s own personal library. The exhibition is included in the regular admission ticket to the Inquisitor’s Palace. Opening hours: 9am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm).
For more information follow the official Facebook page or call T: 2166 3731.
7,000 years of history brought to life
Located in Malta’s capital city, Valletta, housed within what was once the Sacra Infermeria of the Knights of Malta is The Malta Experience. This audio-visual spectacular is one of the largest attractions in Europe in terms of duration, system and language commentaries. It is also the only show that retraces 7,000 years of Maltese history. The 45-minute presentation can be listened to in one of 17 languages. In a purposely built auditorium, with a panoramic screen, sensational vision and a gripping commentary, The Malta Experience brings 7,000 years of history back to life. The show is undoubtedly worth a visit for anyone interested in Malta’s unique history. Moreover it is an ideal reference guide for the island’s places of interest. So why not make it your first stop and let Malta’s treasures unfold before your eyes?
Shows are every hour on the hour as follows: Monday to Friday from 11am to 4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from 11am to 2pm. Quote ‘Guide Me’ at the ticketing counter to claim your 15 per cent discount on the entrance fee (not valid with any other offer).
The Malta Experience St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street, Valletta. T: 2124 3776; W: www.themaltaexperience.com 35
HISTORY
Discovery of the
oldest shipwreck
in the Mediterranean
A
recent discovery some 120 metres beneath the surface of the Maltese islands’ beautiful waters can shed light on an ancient past. Sarah Micallef learns about the Phoenician shipwreck discovered a mile off Gozo, and what it can tell us about an as yet elliptical piece of Malta’s long history.
3D model of the area around the wreck
A group of divers recently unearthed a fascinating discovery about a mile off Gozo – believed to be the oldest shipwreck in the Mediterranean, a Phoenician shipwreck dating back to 700BC. The Phoenicians are believed to have settled in Malta between around 700 BC and 218 BC, a period which represents the beginning of written history in the Maltese islands, leaving their influence via their Semitic language and culture. Their main use for the Maltese islands was as an outpost from which they developed sea explorations and trade in the Mediterranean region.
Despite the fact that there are only few surviving Phoenician architectural remains, this period is known to have been very rich culturally. Writing was in fact introduced to the islands with the arrival of the Phoenicians and many inscriptions
have been retrieved from multiple Phoenician-Punic sites in Malta and Gozo. The fact that the recently discovered wreck dates back to 700BC makes it a rare find, with archaeologists knowing hardly anything about ships built in this archaic period to date. Indeed, the find, which includes a number of amphorae and grinding stones made of volcanic rock, could shed light on commercial relations between the Phoenicians, ancient Greeks and other cultures in the central Mediterranean, as marine archaeologist Dr Timmy Gambin, co-director of the project surveying the site, maintains: “we’re used to reading about the tension between the Greeks and the Phoenicians, and I think ➜
Cippus, of Phoenician origin, with bilingual inscription
37
HISTORY
Phoenician Hall, National Museum of Archaeology
Above: A replica 600BC Phoenician merchant ship; Right: Horus and Anubis pendant
further studies on this shipwreck may shed light on better trade relations than what we currently hypothesise about.” What’s more, apart from that which has already been discovered, Dr Gambin believes that excavations could further reveal remains of the wooden vessel, buried two metres beneath the surface of the seabed. “Comparing the information from the site with that of similar shipwreck discoveries where wood remains were in good condition, we are 99 per cent sure there are wooden remains under the seabed,” he asserts.
Phoenician sarcophagus
38
The amphorae visible on site are believed to have originated from Western Italy, Sicily and possibly even Sardinia, and may further serve to shed light on the route of the ship. The contents of the amphorae may have been wine, while the discovered stone blocks made of volcanic rock, which were probably used to grind wheat, weigh over 1.5 tons, and may serve to show the extent the traders would go to make a profit. To date, the most important remains from the Phoenician
period discovered in Malta are situated at tas-Silġ Sanctuary, overlooking Marsaxlokk Bay. While it is a multi-period sanctuary site covering all eras from Neolithic to the fourth century AD, thus necessitating different layers of excavation, a Punic temple built by the Phoenicians in around 700BC once stood here. Remains from this period discovered on site range from pottery and ash to animal bones, coins and shreds. Aside from the Tas-Silġ archaeological site, several Punic tombs located throughout the Maltese islands have also been discovered, which have also played a part in giving us what little insight we have into the old Phoenician tradition. The National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta, moreover, houses some of the artefacts that date back to this period in its Phoenician Hall. Highlights of the display are a small gold pendant representing the gods Horus and Anubis, a terracotta anthropomorphic sarcophagus and an inscription in Phoenician on papyrus. ➜
HISTORY
The site at which the shipwreck was discovered, some 120 metres beneath the surface of the sea, is currently being surveyed within the Groplan Project funded by the French National Research Agency, which is aimed at developing underwater photogrammetry, a 3D recording system for scientists. The project, through which samples were extracted and a high-resolution 3D model of the area is being created, is the first step in exploring the best way forward about the management and preservation of the site, which could prove of great archaeological significance.
Exhibits at the Phoenician Hall, National Museum of Archaeology
FASHION
Get set for the
new season
A
s the temperature starts to drop and the time comes to put away our light summer wardrobe, the new season (and the excitement it brings with it) is upon us. Here’s Sarah Micallef’s pick of this year’s top autumn/winter trends and how to wear them.
The start of a new season in the fashion world is always welcomed with a frisson of excitement, but as temperatures start to drop and herald in fall fashion, it is by far the most anticipated change. Aside from top designers revealing their new creations, the colder temperatures mean we can have more fun with our look, playing with layering and interesting separates – as opposed to wearing the bare minimum to combat the summer heat, particularly in our hot and sunny corner of the world. This autumn, the dominating trends are vast, ranging from vintage throwbacks to comfortable and casual fashion. Here’s what to look out for come the cooler months of fall.
Swinging Sixties Designers this season offered a modern take on 60s classics, so look out for showstopper pieces like retro shift dresses, princess coats and rain macs. While ultra-modern versions include micro minis, futuristic highshine metallics, plastic rain macs, conversational prints and sequins, you can also embrace the girly side of this trend and channel young starlets like Elle Fanning and Suki Waterhouse in sweet pastels, white tights, A-line shapes and pointy flats. Add a fun and youthful vibe to your look with playful designs and finishes such as a talking-point clutch, 42
and when it comes to beauty, a sharp and heavy cat eye is definitely the way to go.
Florals Summer’s tropical florals give way to moody blooms and tapestry prints this season, with designers looking to the decorative art of the 20th century Bloomsbury artists for inspiration. While patterns reminiscent of William Morris’ wallpaper patterns adorned maxis, capes and shifts on the catwalks, you can wear your winter blooms on cute co-ordinating pieces, flatforms and coats. When the days get colder, winter floral pieces look fabulous paired with thick tights in deep autumnal colours.
Valentino
Prada
Chanel
FASHION
Narques Almeida
Primary Colours Thought winter meant dark colours and muted tones? Not necessarily! Go against tradition by incorporating pops of bright primary colours and clashing bold hues into your look. Mix colours like cobalt blue and shocking scarlet to make a statement, while playing with textures and fabrics will also score some serious style points. Check out the models’ makeup look at designer Marques Almeida’s show for a great beauty take on the trend, which was apparently inspired by ravers making their way home in the morning.
Cosy Comfort Fuzzy, fluffy, chunky and cosy are what this trend is all about, with blanket coats, chunky knits and shearling coats guaranteed to keep you warm while looking hot in the winter chill. Designer inspiration comes in the form of Prada’s shearling coat and the gorgeous blanket coats that featured in Celine and Burberry’s collections, which we’ll undoubtedly see high-street versions of soon. The key word here is cosy, so don’t be afraid to layer your Argyle knits, bombers, oversized scarves and beanies. And for your feet? Why fluffy ankle boots of course. ➜ H&M Studio
Burberry Prorsum
W
Where to shop
hatever your style or preferred trend, there’s plenty of places to shop for it during your stay on the Maltese islands.
Head to Sliema, Malta’s shopping capital, if you’re in the mood for a dose of serious retail therapy, where you’ll find a number of high street and highend shops, as well as the island’s largest shopping mall. If, on the other hand, you’re looking to hit a few shops while taking in some of the island’s culture and history, Malta’s capital city, Valletta, is the place to do it, with a number of boutiques and high-street brands nestled among its magnificent baroque buildings. And, if your budget allows, Portomaso and its surrounding area in St Julian’s offers a more luxurious shopping experience for the discerning shopper, while Bay Street Complex, also in St Julian’s, is a great shopping and entertainment destination. 43
FASHION Normcore Making waves last summer, normcore – featuring a laid-back, 90s inspired style – is back for autumn. Key pieces here include pale denim, clean lines and polo necks as well as tracksuit pants and classic trainers like Adidas Gazelles or Nike Air Force 1s. Definitely one for younger (and trendier) generations, the trick here lies in the simplicity and, as the name suggests, the iconic ‘normality’ of it all. Go for separates in muted colours like oatmeal, camel, tobacco and soft dove grey, and keep your denim pale and high-waisted. Varsity It’s time to go back to school, and not just for the kids. Varsity-style sportswear reminiscent of 60s and 70s classics is trending this fall, with baseball dresses, badges and school uniform staples set to go from runway to high street. While designers went literal with this trend – with Jeremy Scott showing basketball separates and DKNY featuring
Chloe
Delpozo
baseball jackets – you can go for a hint of varsity style by opting for stripe trim on collars, cuffs, socks and waistbands. Pair this trend with a sleek ponytail for a sophisticated take on high school.
WHERE TO SPEND IT
Bay Street Complex
New Winter Collection
In the heart of St Julian’s, Bay Street is a shopping and leisure complex with more than 60 shops ranging from high street fashion to designerwear, jewellery and shoes, sportswear and electronic equipment, music and software, perfumes and other speciality shops; and in between all the shopping, a variety of cafés, restaurants and bars provide a much needed break. Bay Street Complex also boasts a specialised artisan market and a large games room, and hosts several events and attractions.
Under the artistic direction of Jason Wu, the new fall/winter campaign represents a comprehensive vision across fashion for both men and women, building the new look for the BOSS brand. Lensed by iconic photographers Inez and Vinoodh, styled by Joe McKenna, the BOSS fall/winter 2014 campaign is dynamic and character-driven, defining the fundamental codes of BOSS for the 21st century.
It is the only complex in Malta where shops open from 10am till 10pm, and catering and entertainment establishments open till late.
BOSS Store Malta, 2, Ross Street, St Julian’s. T: 2202 1000. Open Monday to Saturday 10am-8pm. BOSS Store Malta, Gate 1, Departures Lounge, Malta International Airport. T: 2202 1300. Open Monday to Sunday 6am-10pm.
GUESS
MEXX’s little black dress
Flush with history, music, neon dreams and Southern charms, the hip Tennessee capital gives inspiration to three distinctive moods of the upcoming Guess collection. The first theme is all about Nashville, the music city where country meets rock n’roll. The Show inspired by Live Music Shows, is a bold, sexy and iconic collection of styles for going out. On the road represents the authenticity and genuine denim authority of GUESS.
Nothing can go wrong with a little black dress. A waist cinching belt designs your shape for a feminine and sophisticated result. Fitted in all the right places, it can be worn from the office to evening drinks. The little black dress can be worn with a white blazer for meetings; with a statement necklace for weddings; or with a cute bolero or a simple cardigan for a Sunday stroll.
Denim Store, Baystreet, St Julian’s. T: 2372 2702; Denim Store, The Point, Sliema. T: 2060 1045; Accessories Store, Bisazza Street, Sliema. T: 2131 4434. Find us on Facebook: GuessJeans Malta
The dress is available from Fall Collection 2014 in MEXX stores in Baystreet, St Julian’s; Pjazza Tigné – The Point, Sliema; Valletta and Mosta.
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WHERE TO SPEND IT
MEXX – the oversized poncho
Disney by Samsonite
Make a bold fashion statement with this oversized poncho coat. Designed with a quilted polyester fabric, this piece also has a large hood and large modern cut armholes to create a new take on short sleeves. Pair this with a little black dress and booties for a look that is on point.
Samsonite®, the world’s largest luggage brand for over 100 years, is pleased to introduce the Disney by Samsonite™ collection. Starting from 2014, this iconic collaboration combines the magical world of Disney with the stateof-the art products for which Samsonite is known.
The poncho coat is available from Fall Collection 2014 in MEXX stores in Baystreet, St Julian’s, Pjazza Tigné – The Point, Sliema, Valletta and Mosta.
SAMSONITE MALTA – Arrival/Departures Hall, Malta Int'l Airport, Luqa. T: 2202 1401. Open Monday to Sunday 8am-8pm. Lost Luggage? Call or SMS the SAMSONITE Malta 24/7 Customer Line on 9996 9172.
Your Shopping
destination of choice
Since its inception in March 2010, The Point – the largest shopping mall in Malta – has succeeded in firmly establishing itself as the shopping destination of choice on the island. The Point has been innovative and bold in its strategy and marketing campaigns, giving customers an unprecedented shopping experience and becoming a popular destination for all the family. The wide variety of top brands, comfortable ambience, ease of access and ample availability of parking spaces are only some of the components that helped The Point to achieve its success. Always customer-centric, the team at The Point manages to put together a vast calendar of events targeting various age groups and tastes. Competitions and offers are also available from various outlets and the mall itself on a regular basis. The Point Shopping Mall offers an experience like no other for customers who are looking for a good mix of outlets within any budget!
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For a full calendar of events visit www.thepointmalta.com and The Point’s Facebook Page www.facebook.com/ThePointShoppingMall
GOZO
Making
F
Gozo home
rom its laidback aura to its exciting range of cultural activities, Gozo no longer sits in the shadows of its larger sister – in fact, it has become a very popular destination for expats hoping to indulge in the Mediterranean lifestyle. Jo Caruana chats to two expats to discover why they have chosen to make this eclectic island their home.
Celebrated German musician Carl Carlton is a self-confessed free spirit; he has travelled the world throughout his life and enjoyed a dynamic career helping to shape the sounds of bands like Herman Brood & Wild Romance, Long Tall Ernie & the Shakers,Vitesse and The Raiders. Today he has chosen Gozo as his home – but he’s by no means slowing down. Here he explains why the island is the ideal place to find creative inspiration for his ongoing endeavours.
“Thanks to my adventurous spirit and my musical vocation I have been a nomad ever since I left Germany at the age of 17. After living in Holland, the USA, the UK, Spain and Australia, I spent the longest period of my life in Ireland – living there for 15 years. I always fall for magical places that inspire my creativity and song writing – which helps, as it is my daily bread! ➜ 51
GOZO friendly people, have embraced me and I am so grateful. “Meanwhile, I have made many friends here. I was so pleased to work with famed Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja and he has become a good pal. In my role as musical director for Amnesty International, I invited him to perform with me last year at the Human Rights Awards in Dublin, and we had a great time. “As for what makes me proud to be an expat in Gozo, well, there is so much to enjoy here. That starts with the incredible view from my own backyards, to the beautiful spaces my wife and I explore – Wied il-Għasri, San Blas Bay and the Xlendi cliffs down towards Dwejra. Plus, as someone who enjoys my food, I can certainly say that there are some great restaurants here – many run by people I now consider my dear friends. “My advice to anyone considering life on Gozo? Come and visit us! Trust me, you really won’t regret it.”
“Within a very short time of discovering Gozo we had rented a place, bought a vintage Land Rover from a farmer, and were waiting for our container of things to arrive from Ireland.”
Interested in renting or buying property in Gozo? RE/MAX Malta is renowned as the home of the largest database of properties for sale or rent in the Maltese islands. Call Edith on 7955 1616 for help in finding your slice of paradise on this tranquil island.
YOUR GOZO
“My love affair with Gozo was no different. I wasn’t in very good health at the time, so my wife Ann Katherine and I decided to take a trip over to the island. The movie director Connor McDermattroe and my friend Alan Bruton, who both have places here, invited me; I’d never even heard of it at the time and wasn’t that convinced! “Thankfully they persuaded me that the trip would be worth it, and I was so excited on our arrival. And, in fact, we were instantly hooked – within a very short time we had rented a place, bought a vintage Land Rover from a farmer, and were waiting for our container of things to arrive from Ireland. “Now, although I still travel extensively for my work, our life is very much based on Gozo – even though I always take a few days to slow down and re-find the local groove when I get back! It’s therapy. The sheer rustic beauty of the island, and its open and
Italian Samuele D’Imperio has a lifelong relationship with Gozo and recalls wonderful family holidays spent discovering the island as a child. As Samuele grew up, his ideas turned to ways that he could make Gozo his full-time base and his entrepreneurial spirit led him to launch Lord Chambray – an artisanal brewery inspired by the beauty of his new home. “The first time I came to Gozo I was three years old – my parents had come over for a holiday 25 years ago and they instantly fell in love with the island. ➜ 52
GOZO “After that, we came to Gozo every summer. We would rent an apartment in Marsalforn and spend our days exploring the cliffs there and learning to swim. It was there that we also made some Gozitan friends who we are still close to today. “Eventually, five years ago, we decided to stop renting and finally found our own home in Fort Chambray. It had long been my parents’ dream to live here, so it’s worked out well – although my parents are actually still in Italy for another few years before they retire. “In the meantime, I have developed my own relationship with Gozo. I combined my passions earlier this year by officially launching my artisanal brewery, Lord Chambray, in the Gozitano Agricultural Village in Xewkija. “My girlfriend, Valentina, joined me recently, and we now live in Fort Chambray. You might imagine life on Gozo to be quiet, but we’re really busy! We work at the brewery six days a week and are constantly developing new products that relate to Gozo; our three current beers pay homage to three of the beaches on the Maltese islands – the Blue Lagoon, Golden Bay and San Blas. “Of course we do have some free time to enjoy our new home, and we particularly enjoy buying fish from the Bugeja fish market and sitting down to dinner overlooking the view. Having come from the north of Italy where our summers only last a couple of months if we’re lucky, I absolutely love the warm weather here. Valentina and I are also quite outdoorsy; I have been impressed by the quality of scuba diving here, while she loves the open views and cycling opportunities.
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“You might imagine life on Gozo to be quiet, but we’re really busy! We work at the brewery six days a week and are constantly developing new products that relate to Gozo.”
“Even though I have known Gozo for most of my life, I am still excited by the thought of being here. The fact that I have been able to launch my new company, develop a new style of beer for the island, and embrace life on Gozo is all absolutely thrilling. “If other young people out there are currently considering a move to Gozo, I would definitely encourage it. Gozo offers fantastic opportunities for learning English and there’s lots to enjoy here too – from restaurants and bars, to really good music and cultural festivals. Plus, in my opinion, there are plenty of opportunities to make business investments too, which really adds to the allure of this incredible country.”
cuisine
Zeri’s Located at the prestigious Portomaso Marina the first restaurant at the top of the stairs that lead to the marina – this highly acclaimed restaurant presents an imaginative menu that reflects Zeri’s (as chef patron Mark is known) skills at creating dishes full of traditional Mediterranean flavour. Specials include an array of fresh high quality meat, pasta, salads, antipasti and fish, whilst the wine list boasts over 170 wines. Great food and a relaxing, yet buzzing ambience make Zeri’s the place to go for business or pleasure. Zeri’s also caters for staff parties and private dinners and lunches. Free parking at Portomaso. Reservations recommended.
Open daily for dinner. October-April Open also for lunch. T: 2135 9559; M: 7957 3333; E: zeris@maltanet.net; W: www.zerisrestaurant.com Zeri’s Restaurant, Portomaso Marina Complex, Portomaso, St Julian’s.
CUISINE
FOOd for the soul
Gino Galea/viewingmalta.com
Martina Said delves into the history and survival of a variety of hearty and nutritious traditional soups, which are rooted in our culture’s heritage and remain popular till this very day.
The VEGETARIAN SOUPS There are many things to look forward to at the start of winter – warm, fluffy clothes, mugs of tea and hot chocolate, as well as an unquenchable appetite for soup. Soup is comforting, tasty, healthy and hearty in a way that no other food is, and can be as diverse as possibly imaginable. A number of traditional local soup recipes continue to make their way into the kitchens of many Maltese households and restaurants, many of which are rooted in poorer days for local society, when soup was considered a sustainable meal capable of feeding many mouths, rather than a tasty appetiser, such as minestra (vegetable soup), kusksu and soppa ta’ l-armla (widow’s soup).
One of the oldest local soup recipes around is that known as minestra, also previously referred to as the poor man’s meal. Maltese chef and recipe books author Karmen Tedesco says that, in bygone times, vegetables were cheap and easily available, especially at specific times of the year when there was a glut of green vegetables, generally once rain began to nourish the fields. “The vast majority of Maltese people were the rural type, who had fields or a back garden where they could grow vegetables, and minestra was made mostly in the winter months, when there was an abundance of cabbages, cauliflower
and potatoes, as well as carrots and pumpkin, which all formed part of the soup. They would also add pulses that they would have grown and dried during a previous season, such as broad beans which are available at the start of spring, as well as a type of cereal, either rice, barley or small pasta. It made a vegetarian meal using all the vegetables in season, and was served with grated dried cheeselet (ġbejna niexfa), and later with imported types of cheese such as kefalotiri or pecorino.” Similar to this is minestrina, which contains one of each vegetable found in minestra – except for pumpkin – ➜
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CUISINE together with tomato paste and some very fine pasta. It is not a thick soup and made a quick first plate, “being both more economical and faster to put together than minestra, which needs its time and cannot be cooked in a few minutes,” says Karmen. Soppa ta’ l-armla (widow’s soup) is another vegetable-packed soup that is a hearty meal by itself. As tradition has it, the soup derives its name from the story of a widow who depended wholly on her husband’s income for buying food stock. “It is believed that when she lost her husband, and so found herself practically penniless, she had to rely on the charity bestowed upon her by the people of the locality, and it is said that street vendors would give her some vegetables, which she would make into a soup together with a poached egg or two and some fresh cheeselets,” says Karmen. “Until this day, it is served with one poached egg and one fresh cheeselet for each person.”
Soppa ta’ l-armla
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The filling soup known as kusksu bil-ful (small pasta beads with broad beans) is also rather seasonal and just like widow’s soup, requires certain fresh produce to be in season, in this instance fresh broad beans and local peas. “This meal was especially cooked around Lent, when broad beans
are in season. The base of kusksu is made of onions, potatoes, tomato paste, lots of broad beans, peas, some cauliflower and small pasta balls, and is also served with a fresh cheeselet. Many of these soups are one-pot meals, which were more economical to make in the past, and capable of feeding large families.”
Kawlata
The WHOLESOME SOUPS Similar to minestra is kawlata, which is a vegetable soup with the addition of pork or sausage. “After allowing the soup to simmer with the meat, they would add rice or barely, and lift the meat out of the soup to serve it as a second plate together with some potatoes and cauliflower,” explains Karmen. “Others would chop up the meat and sausage, and serve it as a one-pot meal filled with vegetables, meat and sausage. This soup requires long, slow cooking, and one important ingredient is the local celery karfus, known as lovage, which has a strong taste that is great for soups. These days, a pressure cooker is used for these types of soups, reducing cooking time from around two hours to 45 minutes.”
The traditional local fish soup, known as aljotta, is rooted in the time of the Knights of Malta, and is similar to the French soup bouillabaisse, perhaps with a little less fish. “It is made using small fish, or the heads of many fish together with the backbone and the tail. The base of this soup is fried garlic with a small onion, lots of herbs associated with fish such as mint, marjoram and basil, together with a slice of lemon which helps to extract the calcium from the fish bones. Some rice is added towards the end of cooking, making a very light yet nourishing meal, and a good way of making use of small fish that are otherwise not so inviting to eat alone.” ➜
CUISINE
The tasty broths The most popular local broths are chicken (brodu tattiġieġa), beef (brodu taċ-ċanġa) and stuffed marrow (brodu bil-qarabali mimli) broths, most of which were considered to be more of a treat than an everyday meal. “The beef broth makes use of a tough cut of meat that is generally tastier, such as the shin, which should be simmered on a low fire along with an onion, some carrots, marrows and lovage, water and some fine pasta thrown in at the end. The meat would then be served as a second plate, either as meat patties or in a rich tomato sauce,” says Karmen. “Chicken broth, on the other hand, requires a stuffed chicken to be lowered into a large pot containing the same ingredients as the beef broth, allowing it to cook for a short while and then lifted and roasted in the oven. The soup gets a lovely flavour of the chicken and its stuffing, which is often minced pork with eggs and cheese.” The broth with stuffed marrows makes another appetising meal, and consists of the same base as the beef broth, but instead of meat, features scooped out marrows stuffed with beef, pork or chicken mince. “Each marrow is stuffed with this mixture and once the soup begins to simmer, the marrows are lowered into it, cooking gently in the soup, and then lifted out and served separately. This plate is a delicacy and the taste is lovely.”
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EATING & DRINKING
Aaron’s Kitchen Chef patron Aaron Degabriele, resident chef of Malta’s no1 TV cooking programme, ‘Aroma Kitchen’, brings more than 20 years’ experience right in the heart of the capital city, Valletta. A newly designed à la carte menu is being served, prepared with the freshest ingredients on the market. Aaron’s Kitchen takes pride in serving a variety of daily specialities, which include fresh fish and shellfish, pasta and grills. A list of home-made desserts, that are changed regularly, is hand-written on the blackboards. Highly rated on Trip Advisor. Open: Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Sundays and public holidays lunches only. Reservations are highly recommended. T: 2123 0636; M: 9945 8356; E: aarondegabriele@yahoo.com - Aaron’s Kitchen, 107, Archbishop Street, Valletta.
Browns “One of the nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever we’re doing and devote our attention to eating” – Luciano Pavarotti... and Browns Kitchen Malta is the place to do so. Original, exceptional and tasty food is served every time – that’s our commitment. We specialise in fresh fish, premium cuts of Irish beef and much more. We also cater for all kinds of occasions including staff parties, birthday celebrations, bachelors’ and hens’ parties, large groups and any other functions where we provide tailor-made set menus depending on our customers’ budgets and requirements. Seating is available inside and outdoors, enjoying breath-taking views of the Grand Harbour. Open: Monday to Sunday from 10am till late. Kitchen open all day. T: 2122 7410/ 2702 0471; W: www.browns.com.mt; F: brownswaterfront - Browns, Valletta Waterfront.
Il-Barri Restaurant Situated in the spacious Mġarr pjazza, Il-Barri Restaurant is a family-run business now in its third generation. While always renowned for Maltese specialities such as rabbit, braġjoli and horsemeat, it also offers a varied à la carte menu, including grills and fresh fish. The contemporary décor, coupled with amazing scenes of the countryside surrounding the village, ensure that the customer has a relaxing and enjoyable experience. Open for lunch from Tuesday to Sunday between noon and 2.30pm; and for dinner from 6pm onwards. Mondays open only for dinner. T: 2157 3235; M: 7961 7744; E: srsammut@maltanet.net; W:www.il-barri.com.mt Il-Barri Restaurant, Church Square, Mġarr.
Il Vecchio Forno Il Vecchio Forno wine bar is a tranquil place to sip a glass of wine and savour a crispy oven-baked pizza. The wine bar offers a vast selection of local and international wines to be enjoyed with our exquisite, freshly prepared food including pasta dishes, platters, focaccias and of course, our renowned pizzas. Enjoy a great night out in a relaxed atmosphere. Open daily from 7pm till late. T: 2142 1461; M: 7970 6311; E: info@ilvecchiofornowinebar.com; W: www.ilvecchiofornowinebar.com Il Vecchio Forno, 27, Eucharistic Congress Road, Mosta.
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EATING & DRINKING
L’Artista Restaurant At L’Artista Restaurant, Chef Patron Emanuele creates culinary masterpieces. While being primarily a Sardinian restaurant, dishes are Mediterranean, and include Italian and Maltese favourites. Whether you prefer meat or seafood, pasta or rice, you are sure to find something to tickle your taste buds. Our principle aim is to provide you with a fine dining experience in a warm, friendly, family restaurant atmosphere. Open Monday to Saturday 7-11pm; Sunday noon-2.30pm and 7-10.30pm. T: 9995 4947; E: ristorantelartista@hotmail.it L’Artista Restaurant, 1, Triq Il-Gandoffli, Buġibba.
Maltese Mama Maltese Mama serves authentic Maltese and Italian cuisines complemented with great service in a relaxing atmosphere. To start, patrons are offered a complimentary plate of traditional Maltese antipasti, served with fresh bread and galletti. Starters include home-made soups, octopus, scallops, clams, the speciality shellfish platter and pasta dishes. A variety of main courses is also available, with specialities including fish and traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit and braġjoli (beef olives). T: 2737 7024; M: 7780 5312; E: eltonspiteri@hotmail.com Maltese Mama, 19/2, Paceville Avenue, St Julian’s.
Palazzo Preca Restaurant Palazzo Preca Restaurant is repeatedly awarded highly as one of the best restaurants in Malta and Gozo. It is situated in one of the most well-known historic streets in Valletta, within a beautiful 16th-century palazzo in Strait Street. An extensive and creative menu provides mouth-watering choices of food and fine local and foreign wines. Last but not least do not miss out on our delicious home-made desserts. Professional, dedicated, attentive staff will help you to ensure that your visit is a completely enjoyable experience. Wednesday night is our special night when the lights are turned off and the restaurant is entirely lit by candles, creating an intimate and romantic ambience. Open Sunday lunch. Monday closed all day. Bookings are recommended and are to be confirmed by phone. T: 2122 6777; M: 9986 6640; W: www.palazzoprecarestaurant.com - Palazzo Preca, 54, Strait Street, Valletta.
Q-Zins Restaurant ‘The world on a plate’ is the best way to describe the new Q-Zins Restaurant, serving five different types of cuisines under one roof. This is the first restaurant in Malta that offers Mediterranean, Italian, Asian and Chinese cuisines, as well as Sushi. 10% discount on food upon presentation of this advert. Open every day from 7pm onwards. T: 2158 3434/2350 3515; E: qzins@dbhotelsresorts.com db San Antonio Hotel + Spa, Triq it-Turisti, Qawra, St Paul’s Bay.
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EATING & DRINKING
Luna – the restaurant at Palazzo Parisio
Palazzo Parisio’s Luna restaurant combines a variety of culinary concepts set in a historic building. Every corner emanates femininity, luxury and a taste of history. In the morning, the Luna restaurant serves breakfast, snacks and lunch. In the afternoon you may enjoy the superb traditional English afternoon tea, with the possibility of purchasing a variety of fine teas from around the world for you to enjoy at home. You may choose from the sublime interior or the shaded tables on the garden terrace beside orange blossoms and bougainvilleas. In the evening, relish a kaleidoscope of tastes via the impressive ‘Menu Degustazione’ with some of the most creative and stylish food interpretations enhanced by a vast selection of wines. The heavenly desserts are impossible to resist. The lounge offers relaxation and understated luxury amid the trendy Parisian-style interiors. Sit and sip exquisite aperitifs along with some tasty bar bites or enjoy the wide selection of vintage wines, champagnes,
vodkas and a variety of innovative cocktails. Comment devotees praise “the varied and stylish menu,” and the “excellent service” in a “magnificent setting”.
Book your table on T: 21412461 Ext 2 or E: fb@palazzoparisio.com 29, Victory Square, Naxxar. W: www.palazzoparisio.com
EATING & DRINKING
Rebekah’s Situated discreetly on the heights of Mellieħa, Rebekah’s is a converted house of character that welcomes diners to an evening of fine dining. You may choose to dine in the airy internal courtyard or by the fireplace in the cosy interior. Thanks to Rebekah’s excellent wine list, which brings together wines from all over the world, every dish is excellently accompanied by a wine that matches any given dish like a glove – accentuating even the subtlest nuances of flavour. Average price: €37 per person. Free pick-up and drop-off from anywhere in Mellieħa. October Open: Monday to Sunday from 7pm (10.30pm last order). November Open: Monday to Saturday from 7pm (10.30pm last order). Sunday open for lunch from noon (2.30pm last order). T: 2152 1145; M: 7947 8896; E: info@rebekahsmalta.com; W: www.rebekahsmalta.com. Rebekah’s Restaurant, 12, Triq it-Tgħam, Mellieħa.
Tagine Restaurant ‘Morocco with a touch of India’ is the best way to describe this new à la carte restaurant. It takes you through a culinary journey from Marrakesh to Mumbai and all the tastes, scents and aromas in between. Our Moroccan and Indian chefs offer a mouth-watering array of dishes, all served in rooms done up in a typically intimate Moorish style. 10% discount on food upon presentation of this advert. Open every day from 7pm onwards. T: 2158 3434/2350 3519; E: tagine@dbhotelsresorts.com db San Antonio Hotel + Spa, Triq it-Turisti, Qawra, St Paul’s Bay.
Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro Right in the heart of Sliema lies Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro, serving wholesome home cooking at unbeatable prices. Chef patron Chris uses the freshest ingredients to create tasty Maltese dishes like Dad’s Famous Braġjoli, thick beef stew, veal escalopes and rabbit. Patrons are also spoilt for choice with the daily specials ranging from fresh fish to beef fillet and various pasta dishes. All at this price-worthy restaurant is served in the unique settings of a former bakery. Ta’ Kris is one of the best rated restaurants by the Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants. Open daily for lunch and dinner. T: 2133 7367; M: 9984 7713; W: www.takris.malta-europe.com Ta’ Kris, 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema.
Ta’ Marija Ta’ Marija has been awarded Best Maltese Food Restaurant from 2005 to 2013. A stone’s throw away from the majestic Mosta Dome, the superb Ta’ Marija Restaurant is run by a charming family who hasn’t just got the recipes in the kitchen right, but has also succeeded in concocting and mastering a unique recipe of running a top-notch eatery. Every Wednesday and Friday night, Ta’ Marija organises a Maltese traditional extravaganza night with musicians and singers, followed by a Maltese folklore dance show. Transport from and to your holiday accommodation can be arranged directly with Ta’ Marija. Reservations are recommended. Open for lunch and dinner. T: 2143 4444; E: info@tamarija.com; W: www.tamarija.com Ta’ Marija Restaurant, Constitution Street, Mosta.
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NIGHTLIFE
Music of the night As night falls, Malta comes alive with exciting events to enjoy this autumn. From rock concerts to festivals, here Jo Caruana lists her favourite music-related activities for you to check out over the next couple of months.
O3/1O
O4/1O
1O–11/1O
Charlie Siem in Concert Manoel Theatre, Valletta www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
Notte Bianca Valletta www.maltaculture.com
The Sound Catalogues Live St James Cavalier, Valletta www.sjcav.org
One for classical music lovers, this event kick-starts the Manoel Theatre’s season with a joint collaboration between the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra and the theatre itself. Under the baton of celebrated local conductor Brian Schembri, who is renowned for his vivacious spirit and sense of entertainment, you can expect a wonderful evening of beautiful music. The special guest for the evening will be Charlie Siem, who is known to be one of the brightest young stars in classical music today. The programme will include Ludwig van Beethoven’s Overture Egmont and Max Bruch’s Violin Concerto No 1 in G minor op. 26.
As far as arts festivals go, this is one of the best annual ones held in Malta. On the evening of Notte Bianca (which translates as ‘white night’), the whole city comes alive with exciting events – cultural venues, state palaces and museums open their doors almost all night, with many playing host to visual art exhibitions, dance and theatre performances. As always on this occasion, Valletta will be very busy, so it’s best to think well ahead how you plan to get to and from the city. This is a great place to mingle with locals, experience the arts and see behind the often-closed doors of Malta’s stunning capital.
The Sound Catalogues is an exciting artistic concept which leads to the making of various ‘catalogues’ that record inspiring events, figures, eras, inventions and more, using musical composition and performance as a means of artistic expression. This first volume takes into account a series of historic events. “Locally, apart from the annual summer Malta Jazz Festival, it is not very common to experience performances by musicians of such high calibre within the jazz genre,” explains organiser Carlo Muscat. “This event provides this opportunity by bringing Maltese artists together with some of the more established musicians on the Parisian scene.” The Sound Catalogues promises live, original, contemporary music performed by a group of musicians of four nationalities, on saxophone, guitar, trumpet, piano, doublebass and drums. The Sound Catalogues is supported by The Malta Arts Fund. ➜
viewingmalta.com
Jeremy Wonnacott - DOI/viewingmalta.com
Carlo Muscat (left) and Matyas Szandai (right). Photos by Laurent Coq
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NIGHTLIFE
11/1O
11–12/1O
Il Trovatore Aurora Theatre, Gozo www.teatruaurora.com
Modern Music Days Teatru Manoel, Valletta and St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral, Valletta www.modernmusicdays.eu
You’ll be hard-pressed to find a ticket for this sell-out event, but we do recommend you try! Gozo’s Aurora Theatre has garnered quite a reputation for top-quality opera and fans now swarm over from Malta, as well as from further afield. This favourite by Verdi has it all – villains, heroes, love and beautiful arias. It will feature top performers including Emanuele Cordaro as Ferrando, May Caruana as Ines, Bernard Busuttil as Ruiz, Carlo Palazzo as the old gypsy and Riccardo Palazzo as the messenger, as well as headliners Marzio Giossi, Michele Crider, Stuart Neill and Mzia Nioradze. Tickets start at €45.
24–25/1O
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Modern Music Days is a new concept that aims to promote 20th century music. Two fun-filled concerts will be held in October: the stars of the night on Saturday 11 October are Powerplant from the UK, a percussion and electronic collective led by British percussionist Joby Burgess. Audiences should expect an eclectic and multimedia performance that incorporates sound design and live visuals, with an intriguing blend of rhythms, projections and electronic music, within the beautiful, baroque Teatru Manoel. On Sunday 12 October a choir and organ recital featuring Glen Dempsey, Organ Scholar at St George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle and local choir Schola Cantorum Jubilate, will be held at the magnificent St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral.
17/1O The End of Summer Rock Night Conquest Pub, Senglea What started as a small club night between friends has developed into a popular music night that attracts quite a crowd to this beautiful and historic part of the island. “It’s a very laidback vibe but people always enjoy the music we play,” explains organiser Mark Mangion. “Guests can make requests for the rock songs they want to hear and we’ll play them. It’s all about going back to the roots of rock and really just enjoying good music.”
The Malta Doom Metal Festival Chateau Buskett, Buskett Gardens
7–8/11
You may be surprised to learn that metal music is really popular here in Malta – and this event promises a really great opportunity to see why. Now established as one of Europe’s leading doom metal festivals, it promises the chance to see some of the greats from this genre in action, including Manilla Road from the US, Desolation Angels from the UK and Firelord from Italy. This is also the ideal chance to travel to this more leafy part of Malta, on the way to picturesque Dingli Cliffs.
This annual concert has managed to combine two wonderful aspects of life – great music and doing something good for others. Held annually and organised by youth group Żgħażagħ Ħaddiema Nsara, Strummin’ has raised thousands of euro over the years, and plans to do the same in 2014. As always, the concert will feature hit songs and live music, as well as its popular guitar choir. This is a great feel-good event, fuelled by the passion and talent of its young participants. ➜
Strummin’ Sir Temi Zammit Hall, University of Malta
NIGHTLIFE
7–9/11
8/11
The Malta Tattoo Expo The Diamond, Qormi
Grand Operatic Concert Aurora Theatre, Gozo www.teatruaurora.com
This convention is a real first for Malta, and it hopes to attract tattoo artists and enthusiasts from around the world. But things don’t stop there; this will also be a fantastic event for music lovers, with three full days of performances from top bands across the genres of rock, hip-hop, acoustic and electronic dance music, as well as performers including Sugar Rush, Forty Days, Jack’s Fusion and DJ Hades. There will also be a special performance by Beyond the Skin, which is a band formed especially for the expo and featuring some of the best musical talent on the island. Organiser Damian Allison is understandably excited about this local first, saying: “this is a true step forward for Malta in relation to tattoos, and it promises to be a great weekend. If you’re into tattoos and/or live music, then it’s a no-brainer!” Tickets are available from www.ticketline.com.mt
Three years after the Grand Operatic Concert first impressed audiences, it is back to wow once again. This beautiful Gozitan theatre, which sits on the main street up to the capital city Victoria, will come alive with the sounds of the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra. The jam-packed programme will include Verdi’s La Forza del Destino, Puccini’s Tosca and Rossini’s Guillaume Tell. It’s best to book well ahead.
30/11 Modern Music Days Robert Samut Hall, Floriana www.modernmusicdays.eu
22/11 Wayne Hussey (The Mission): Live in Malta Razzett l-Aħmar, Mosta After a long absence, Wayne Hussey is back on tour and giving a performance at this picturesque outdoor venue. As part of his Songs of Candlelight and Razorblades tour, Wayne, of The Mission fame, will wow during this acoustic set. He will be supported by an acoustic set by Niki Gravino, with an alternative after-show party continuing after hours.
Tamsin Pace Decesare
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Musicians from the Brno Contemporary Orchestra (Czech Republic) and local musicians will showcase their talents under the direction of conductor Pavel Šnajdr. This Ensemble concert, promises “challenging and avant-garde” music that “is very exciting and accessible, portraying an effervescent virtuoso performance”.
ENTERTAINMENT
Modern
Music Days
V
alletta: baroque masterpiece, UNESCO World Heritage site, and city of the Knights. Valletta’s titles recall its rich historical past, which lures you into a sepia-tinted postcard experience. Modern Music Days (MMD) is an avant-garde concert series which is about to splash vibrant colours over the historical snapshot.
Powerplant (UK) – Photo by Kathy Hinde
The concert by Powerplant will take place at Teatru Manoel in Valletta, one of the oldest working theatres in the world. Teatru Manoel is also one of the finest examples of baroque architecture, built in 1731 by Grand Master Antonio Manoel de Vilhena. On Sunday 12 October, MMD will present a choir and organ recital at the magnificent St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral in Valletta. This concert will feature Glen Dempsey, Organ Scholar at St George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle, and local choir Schola Cantorum Jubilate.
Another collaboration between local and international talent will showcase on Sunday 30 November for the concert entitled: Ensemble. MMD has created the opportunity for musicians from the Brno Contemporary Orchestra (Czech Republic) and local musicians to collaborate as one ensemble under the direction of conductor Pavel Šnajdr. The programme includes works by Boulez, Connesson, Grahl, Ligeti, Lutosławski and Xenakis. This concert will take place at Robert Samut Hall in Floriana, next to the Argotti Botanical Gardens, just a 10-minute walk from Valletta.
MMD is a brand new international concert series committed to promoting 20th-century repertoire and contemporary music. MMD aims to motivate existing audiences and draw in new ones through its adventurous programming. Indeed, the premier concert of the series on Saturday 11 October will feature an Modern Music Days is organised by Teatru Manoel and the Malta Association for eclectic and multimedia performance Contemporary Music with the support of the Valletta 2018 Foundation and the by Powerplant from the UK – a Ministry for Finance. For more information visit www.modernmusicdays.eu percussion and electronic collective led by British percussionist Joby Burgess incorporating sound design and live visuals. The performance introduces the audience to an intriguing blend of rhythms, projections and electronic music transforming the recital into a psychedelic experience. “A prominent figure in the alternativeclassical scene… Joby Burgess, the soloist coaxed all manner of sounds… often wielding multiple sticks in each hand and even using his fingers and elbows… the words athleticism and stamina come to mind.” – The New York Times What makes MMD unique is precisely the contrast of avant-garde Schola Cantorum Jubilate (Malta) expression in a baroque setting. 74