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Malta YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE MALTESE ISLANDS

INTERNATIONAL VISITORS’ GUIDE 2021/2022

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Your guide to INVESTING IN MALTA

2021/2022 CONTENTS

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The islands’ sites and scenes you mustn’t miss

Testaments to Europe’s glorious past

Art and history come to life at the Mdina Cathedral Museum

New eats on the block

Discover the islands’ magnificent cities through the eyes of a local

Moving to Malta? These are the top localities to consider on the islands

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A guide to investing in Malta Valletta St Julian’s A complete new destination The Three Cities & Around Sliema & Around Mdina, Rabat & Around Mellieha, Bugibba & Around Gozo & Comino

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Welcome to the

Maltese islands

Publisher

Content House Group 3, Mallia Building, Triq in-Negozju, Zone 3, Central Business District, Birkirkara CBD 3010, Malta Tel: +356 2132 0713 info@contenthouse.com.mt www.contenthouse.com.mt Malta Insider International Visitors’ Guide 2021/2022 is published and owned by Content House Group Ltd.

Editor Martina Said Contributors Rebecca Anastasi, Isabel Depasquale, Sarah Micallef, Martina Said Research Marvic Cutajar, Elena Debattista, Sue Pisani Creative Director & Design Nicholas Cutajar Cover Photography Kurt Arrigo, shot during the Rolex Middle Sea Race Senior Partner Matthew Spiteri Brand Sales Managers Diane Scerri, Jessica Spiteri Catania Corporate Sales & Business Development Manager Marie Claire Camilleri Director of Operations & Sales Lindsey Napier Digital Media & Marketing Manager Raisa Mazzola Senior Operations & Accounts Executive Sue Ann Pisani

or the miniscule size of these Mediterranean islands, you’ll soon discover there’s lots more to see and do than you probably ever imagined. If you travelled here for the history, for the beautiful beaches or underwater adventures, for cultural activities, for the food, or to simply kick back and relax in a stunning hotel, then you’ve come to the right place – and picked the perfect guide to accompany you through it all. In the 2021/2022 edition of Malta Insider, the islands’ most comprehensive visitor guide, we explore in great detail all that this archipelago has to offer – including the must-sees, the quirky, and the hidden gems loved by locals. Conveniently broken down by locality, browse through the best things to see and do, places to drink and dine, as well as where to stay during your holiday in Malta, Gozo and Comino. If you’re visiting for leisure as well as business, turn to the Business Supplement on page 53, which provides an in-depth overview of what it takes to set up a business in Malta, the professional services available, and all that you could possibly need to get started. With all this and much more, we hope you enjoy your stay on these sunny islands – and find a trusty friend in this guide for the duration of your trip!

Martina The choice of establishments listed and recommended in this guide is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publication is distributed free of charge from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo, through selected leading fourand five-star hotels, as well as at leading and highly-rated boutique hotels around Malta and Gozo. The publication is also distributed to public entities and ministries, embassies and consulates in the Maltese islands, and at prominent public spaces including trendy cafés and eateries. It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at the MIA and Gozo Channel ferries, and is distributed strategically in the UK by a major international distribution company in the UK, with specific focus on London hotels, corporate offices and leading companies in the UK, leading embassies based in London, airport locations (London Gate Services & Media Walls), Stansted Express & Gatwick Express, and Eurostar Lounge @ London St Pancras. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in the guide, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors it may contain.

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THE ISLANDS’ SITES AND SCENES you mustn’t miss

Across Malta and Gozo, there’s no shortage of stunning sites and attractions that visitors would do well to add to their itinerary. But if you’re looking to narrow down your choice with a handful of must-visits that offer a mix of popular and lesser-known things to do, Martina Said’s top picks will have you covered.

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INIGO TAYLOR

Wander through the capital

Malta’s capital city, Valletta, is teeming with majestic palaces (Grand Master’s Palace), grand churches (St John’s CoCathedral), splendid theatres (Teatru Manoel) and opulent palazzos (Casa Rocca Piccola). While these are all worth visiting if you have the time, you’ll also likely stumble across many unexpected treasures if you dare to wander through the back streets, such as shop signs with original, decadesold typography, shrines carved into the ancient walls, and antique buildings showcasing marvellous architecture.

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Visit a lesser known beach

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It’s hard to find an empty beach anywhere on the islands during summer, but those that are tougher to get to tend to attract smaller crowds. Consider San Blas Bay in Nadur, Gozo – the road that leads to it is long and steep, making it a less popular choice but ever so worth the effort. In Malta, Selmun Bay, also known as Mgiebah, is also quite a trek, but the sea and views are simply stunning.

A taste of prehistory

Ancient temples and tombs can be found in various towns and villages in Malta and Gozo, each offering their own unique insight into the islands’ prehistoric period. If you’re pressed to visit just one, the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum in Paola is impressive. This complex, made up of interconnecting rock-cut chambers on three distinct levels, spans centuries of use, with the earliest remains dating back to 4,000BC. VIEWINGMALTA.COM

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ALAN CARVILLE

Must-see museum

Whatever your interests, you’re likely to find a museum that can cater for them, be it the history of the Order of the Knights of St John, Malta’s wartime era, or prehistory. If art is what you’re after, MUŻA – Malta’s national museum of art in Merchants Street, Valletta – is home to a stunning collection of works by acclaimed artists ranging from Italian Baroque artist, Mattia Preti to Maltese sculptor, Antonio Sciortino to 20th century British artist, Victor Pasmore.

In the heart of the village Stunning sea caves

While not exactly hidden, the Blue Grotto is a must-see for eager sea explorers. Located along Malta’s southern coast – and generally accessed by boat, with a regular service leaving from Wied izZurrieq – the massive arch and system of caves is the result of the relentless work of mother nature.

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The islands’ quaint villages, including the central three villages of Attard, Balzan and Lija in Malta, and Zebbug in Gozo, are a marvel to discover on foot. Once in their heart, which is often marked by the presence of a grand church, wander through the streets and keep an eye out for gorgeous façades of private homes and charming bars or grocery stores often run by friendly locals whose lives are intricately tied to the village – with more than a story or two to share.

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Deep in nature

While Malta may be more renowned for its sea than its countryside, you’d be pleased to find some hidden green gems such as Mosta valley, also known as Wied il-Ghasel (literally meaning valley of honey). Once down in the valley, which is accessible from the main road leading towards Mosta Bridge, look out for the tiny, tucked-away chapel of St Paul the Hermit, as well as the staggering bridge from below which makes for a great photo op.

A marvellous church

While Malta isn’t lacking its fair share of impressive cathedrals, churches and chapels, some tend to get all the attention – and for good reason. But if you’re looking to visit a church that’s less of a tourist attraction but still extraordinary, head to the village of Qrendi to check out the parish church dedicated to the Assumption. Designed in the shape of a Latin cross in the 17th century, it’s a fine work of Baroque architecture with lots to see inside, including a titular painting by eminent Maltese artist, Giuseppe Calì.

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Grab a (traditional) bite

Wherever you are in Malta or Gozo, keep an eye out for snack bars, or pastizzeriji, that sell the islands’ beloved pastizzi – ricotta or pea filled flaky pastry snacks that are indulgent and simply delicious. A widely popular one located in the town of Rabat is Is-Serkin – while it does attract the crowds, we suggest heading to the city of Mdina to enjoy it in peace and quiet. The magnificent Bastion Square boasts spectacular views of the island – a perfect spot to wind down with a tasty treat in hand.

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Testaments to EUROPE’S glorious past

Ensconced within the walls of Malta’s capital, Valletta, St John’s Co-Cathedral has been witness to the island’s history for centuries. Its marble tombstones, which gild the church’s floor, as well as its respected monuments, created by some of Europe’s most distinguished artists, draw thousands of visitors a year. Cynthia de Giorgio, CEO and Curator of St John’s Co-Cathedral, reveals the masterpieces behind its robust walls. 24 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

t John’s Co-Cathedral is situated in the heart of Valletta, the capital city of Malta. It is a gem of Baroque art and architecture. Its rich history and artistic heritage are a result of its 200-year legacy as the conventual church of the Order of St John of Jerusalem. Indeed, the history of the church is directly tied to the history of the Order in Malta, with the upkeep of St John’s having occupied the topmost position in the annual budget of the Order, allowing them to maintain it in continuous splendour.

ST JOHN’S CO-CATHEDRAL FOUNDATION

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In a speech given before the Great Siege, Grand Master de Valette, from whom the capital takes its name, had said, “Let us hasten then my brothers to the sacred altar”, and this marriage between religion and mortality is no more evident than in the marble tombstones within the Co-Cathedral. For the entire floor of St John’s Co-Cathedral and Oratory is covered with a unique collection of inlaid marble tombstones. There are approximately 400 tombstones, and these commemorate some of the most illustrious knights of the Order, many of whom were members of the great Catholic and aristocratic families of Europe. The knights buried here rank from priors to admirals, and even bailiffs. The tombstones themselves, dating from the late 17th century to the latter half of the 18th century, tell the stories of their lives, with crowns and coronets indicating the most noble of the knights. All the tombstones were individually designed and are composed of carefully selected fine coloured marble. Each tombstone is highly charged, conveying powerful emotions in their representation of triumph, fame, victory, and death, as revealed in their aesthetic dimensions. Symbols, both ecclesiastical and profane are used in a vibrant visual language, with skeletons and skulls often included in the iconography of the tombstones, as can be seen in the

The entire floor of St John’s Co-Cathedral and Oratory is covered with a unique collection of inlaid marble tombstones.

tombstone of Fra François de Tressemanes Chastuel Brunet, who died in 1683. Symbols expressed what words could not. The figure of prudence is included as a virtue of the knight, hence ravished by Father Time, a skeleton holding a torch, symbolic of the victory of death. The woman holding the mirror is the attribute of the allegory of prudence. Thus, the symbols represent the end of life on earth and the beginning of eternal life with God the Father. Moreover, among other of the most popular symbols are the angel of fame blowing a trumpet and angels holding laurel wreaths as a symbol of victory. Several tombstones also depict weapons and battle scenes as testimony of their host’s chivalry, while the Latin epitaphs describe the knights’ virtues and achievements. Most of the tombstones are the work of local and Sicilian craftsmen, and the actual designs are, possibly, the product of several artists, working in tandem. Many were well-known in their day, and these include Romano Carapecchia and the locally renowned artist, Francesco Zahra. Each tombstone is a page from history proclaiming the devotion of Europe’s nobility, and these remnants from the past often give more than a hint of the hopes and inspirations of these consecrated chivalrous knights. It might be safe to say that there is no comparable monument anywhere in the world. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 25

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St John’s Co-Cathedral also boasts several grand monuments, which were planned during the lifetime of those they would eventually commemorate, such as those of the Grand Masters, commissioned to emphasise the glory bestowed on them for their military role and as the honourable defenders of the faithful. And, indeed, several of the Grand Masters’ funerary monuments in St John’s are vivid testimonies to the importance victory, fame and triumph played in proclaiming the honour of the Grand Masters. In general, therefore, monuments to the Grand Masters will be found grouped in the chapels of their own Langue. The only Grand Master whose memorial stands in the body of the church is that of Frà Marcantonio Zondadari (1720-1722) whose monument is on the left of the main door. Moreover, one of the most notable monuments is the one dedicated to Grand Master Ramon Perellos Y Roccaful (1697-1720). It is one of the largest monuments in the Co-Cathedral, situated in the chapel of the Langue of Aragon. The monument is known to be the work of Giuseppe Mazzuoli, a well-known Roman sculptor who was also the author of the baptismal group at the high altar of St John’s Co-Cathedral. Grand Master Perellos wears a long wig in a bronze bust and looks down approvingly from his monument, which is beautifully animated with two allegorical figures in white marble seated above his sarcophagus. These represent Charity and Justice – both important virtues of the Order.

St John’s Co-Cathedral also boasts several grand monuments, which were planned during the lifetime of those they would eventually commemorate.

Another notable monument is dedicated to Grand Master Nicholas Cotoner (1663-1680), and consists of his image in bronze backed by a marble pyramid, symbolising eternity, with an exquisite representation of the Angel of Fame and showcasing the Grand Master’s coat of arms in white marble. Lying on the plinth is a large and intriguing collection of triumphal symbols reflecting the grand words of his epitaph. A Roman cuirass filled with arrows and a Turkish standard as signs of conquest over the ‘infidels’, are also included, all pointing to Nicolas Cotoner’s wish to be remembered as a faithful member of the Order as well as a warrior of the Catholic faith. Moving on, one monument is erected to the memory of Vicomte de Beaujolais, the brother of King Louis Philippe of France, who died in Malta on 29th May 1808 and was interred in the Chapel of France. The Vicomte was just 28 years old when he died of tuberculosis a fortnight after his arrival on the island. The work is by the famous French sculptor, Jacques Pradier, and was erected by King Louis Philippe. These are just some of the highlights which can be experienced at St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta – a veritable feast for the eyes and the mind. Visit the interactive map of the tombstones and monuments on The St John’s Co-Cathedral website, stjohnscocathedral. com/inlaid-marble-tombs. St John’s Co-Cathedral is open for visits from Monday to Saturday from 9.30am to 2.30pm (last admission at 2pm). www.stjohnscocathedral.com

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Art and history come to

life AT THE MDINA

CATHEDRAL MUSEUM Martina Said catches up with the Mdina Cathedral Museum’s curator, Mgr Dr Edgar Vella, to learn about its many treasures, upcoming new exhibits, and what visitors can expect within its impressive walls.

ocated within Malta’s former capital, the stunning Silent City, the Mdina Metropolitan Cathedral Museum is an absolute must-see for anyone who sets foot within the city’s ancient walls. The museum’s eclectic collection spans across various fields of art, and began to take shape as early as 1833, when the Chapter of Mdina accepted from Count Saverio Marchese a donation of 75 oil paintings and hundreds of old masters drawings and engravings – and it hasn’t stopped ever since. Under the curatorship of Fr Vella, the Mdina Cathedral Museum is a space where visitors of all ages and interests are welcome to explore its many treasures, and to take back with them something that is as invaluable as the artefacts contained within: knowledge. Housed within a magnificent Baroque building to the right-hand side of the cathedral in Archbishop’s Square, the museum is constantly evolving to offer visitors an enhanced experience, where currently, three new spaces are in the offing and expected to be inaugurated in the coming weeks.

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“One of these is the sala nobile, which will be a vitrine for the visitor to experience life in an embellished 18th century Maltese salon, with furniture, paintings, porcelain, glass and silver dating back to that time,” says Fr Vella. An extensive gallery on coins and minting will also be opened to the public soon, as well as a space dedicated to the national poet of Malta, Dun Karm Psaila, providing a detailed glimpse into his life and works.

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Offering a virtual tour of the museum, Fr Vella says that, upon entering the impressive building, visitors are faced with one of the museum’s most beautiful collections – 15 silver statues of the 12 apostles, as well as St Paul, patron of Malta, St John the Baptist, Patron of the Order of the Knights of St John, and Our Lady. “The statues were commissioned by the Order of the Knights of St John to one of the most important Roman Baroque sculptors, Antonio Arrighi, to embellish the altar of the Conventual Church of St John in Valletta, which we refer to today as St John’s Co-Cathedral,” says Fr Vella. During the French occupation in Malta, the silver statues along with other artefacts were confiscated and could eventually be sold or minted in siege ingots. “The story behind how they were redeemed twice by the Chapter in order to be preserved is truly fascinating.” Next up are a display of ecclesiastical silver, the bell room – which houses the oldest bell in Malta and the only local medieval campanological specimen dating from 1370 – and an impressive and varied collection of objets d’art donated by the late silver expert and collector, as well as former Speaker of the House of Representatives, Dr Jimmy Farrugia. “Here, visitors can enjoy a Melitensia collection that includes furniture dating back to the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, as well as views of Malta from the past, including Valletta and Sliema, from various artists including A. Schranz, G. Gianni and L.M. Galea.” says Fr Vella.

“[The Dürer Hall] is a must-visit for those who appreciate the works of this most important Renaissance German artist.”

‘’This section also includes a collection of domestic silver, where the visitor can observe the indulgent custom of the Maltese nobility in investing in fine silver banqueting utensils, and personal accessories.’’ What follows is a series of new halls that will soon be open to the public, including a collection of Maltese furniture, paintings and silver from the British period, the aforementioned display dedicated to Malta’s national poet, a money gallery that explores coin minting and demonstrates an extensive collection of coins dating from the Punic period all the way to the modern-day euro, as well as a section dedicated to biblical coins, donated to the museum by a Jewish American gentleman. Moving on from the ground floor to the museum’s own piano nobile, visitors will set foot inside the new sala nobile exhibit, followed by the recently refurbished vestments room, dedicated to liturgical textiles and artefacts previously used in the cathedral. Not to be missed is the chapel – a mini museum in itself that was also recently restored to reveal impressive 18th century trompe l’oeil paintings on its dome, which were previously whitewashed for over 150 years. “Next is the chronological display of the picture gallery, starting from

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the oldest panel paintings we have in Malta – of which the museum proudly owns the largest collection locally – dating from the 1400s, together with the magnificent polyptych of St Paul, which is the largest, oldest and finest existing altar painting in Malta,” says Fr Vella. The gallery further exhibits works from the 17th century, including works by Minniti, Ribera and Preti, and each subsequent century until the early 1800s, offering visitors a cross section of works on various themes, ranging from portraits to mythology and much more. Towards the end of the tour is one of the museum’s highlights: The Dürer collection, “which contains an important collection of works by the Northern Renaissance master, Albrecht Dürer apart from his hometown of Nuremberg and unique to Malta,” the curator explains. “This is a must-visit for those who appreciate the works of this most important Renaissance German artist. There are 76 prints on display including the series of ‘The Life of the Virgin’ and ‘The Small Passion’ on woodcuts and other copperplate engravings.” Fr Edgar’s dedication to the museum is evident through the breadth and depth of his knowledge on all things art and history, as well his desire to constantly make the museum a better place for all visitors. One such initiative that is a genuine reflection of this is the Mdina Cathedral Museum’s setting up of a safe room to cater for the needs of children with autism. ‘’The museum’s awareness of the prevalence of autism especially in children, prompted us to facilitate an environment tailored specially to their needs - a first of its kind among local museums,’’ he asserts. The museum has led several other initiatives in recent years aimed at spreading awareness and disseminating knowledge of its many treasures among visitors of all ages. One popular campaign, called Dress Me Up, encouraged visitors to tour the museum in period costumes, while another, called the Symbol Literacy Programme for local schools – carried out in collaboration with the Ministry for Education and the Education Department at the University of Malta – promoted art through unique, educational and interactive ways.

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Unique collection in Malta of Albrecht Dürer’s original prints

When in Mdina, a visit to the museum should undoubtedly be on every visitor’s list, as should be a visit to the imposing Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Paul, which dominates the main square and leaves everyone who encounters it in sheer awe of its grandeur and magnitude. Designed by prolific Baroque architect, Lorenzo Gafà, Fr Vella describes the cathedral as one of the most important Baroque structures on the island, and its architecture alone is a must-see in its own right. Originally built in the 12th century, the cathedral suffered severe damage following a devastating earthquake in 1693 and was subsequently dismantled and rebuilt in the dominant style of the time. “Although severely impacted, the cathedral was not completely beyond repair following the earthquake, but the Chapter had decided to create a more spectacular cathedral and compete with the structures being funded by the the Knights of Saint John.” Within its impressive walls are countless treasures to behold, including a collection of paintings by Mattia Preti, frescoes by Vincenzo Manno depicting episodes from the life of St Paul and commemorative marble slabs on the cathedral’s floor. Some relics from the old cathedral, such as the 15th century baptismal font and original cathedral door dating back to 1530, can also be observed. Turning to future plans for the museum, Fr Vella says there’s lots in the pipeline, including a space that will be dedicated to prolific 17th century Maltese artist, Melchiorre Gafa, and a new area for displaying modern and contemporary art – those within the museum’s collection as well as for established and emerging artists to exhibit their work. “We are also embarking on a strategy to cater for younger generations. As audio guides are on their way out, we are investing in a system that allows the visitor to download an app on their phone and retrieve information by scanning a code placed next to a display at the museum,” says Fr Vella. “With this app, we hope to attract new, young audiences and students, and spread knowledge about all that exists within the museum’s walls. The museum is alive, it is not a depository of antique relics – and we want everyone to be able to enjoy it.”

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New eats on the block One thing that has united the Maltese for generations is their love of food, and as time has gone by, this love has manifested itself in a thriving restaurant scene that is chock full of interesting eateries. Sarah Micallef explores some of the island’s newest additions, meeting the chefs behind them and discovering what they bring to the table.

BARBAJEAN

Opening its doors in June 2020, Barbajean, in the northern village of Dingli, is the brainchild of chef patron JEAN-PIERRE DINGLI and offers a modern Mediterranean-inspired menu which emphasises seasonal produce. “Good food is at the forefront of what I do as a chef,” explains Jean-Pierre, who says that the team at Barbajean truly cares about the ways in which food is sourced, prepared and served. “We are here for the people who care; the people who want to spend their money at a restaurant that has a conscience and appreciates good food. We do it for people who believe, like us, that doing things with love and passion is the only way to run a good restaurant.” Opening to the public in June 2020, the menu at Barbajean changes seasonally, and is made up of smaller and larger dishes that work as sharing plates or individual starters or mains. The choice is not vast, but features a curated selection of meat, fish and pasta dishes alongside vegetarian options, as well as an enticing selection of home-made desserts. “Everything we serve is inspired by what’s available locally and whatever I would want to eat myself, if I went out to eat,” reveals Jean-Pierre. Among his favourite dishes from the menu so far, the chef patron names a Maltese sausage scotch egg. “This recipe is so simple yet was created with a lot of thought 32 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

to turn something traditional into something modern,” he says. Sharing his thoughts on Malta’s restaurant scene, JeanPierre believes that as an industry, “we need to take more risks to deliver something new without comparing ourselves to other countries because we definitely have the potential to be just as good.” The obvious challenge over the last year has been COVID-19, he continues, adding that the industry has taken a hit and it hasn’t been easy on anyone. “Many restaurants had to re-think their entire operation as many had to rely solely on takeout, apart from seating restrictions which have been detrimental to some,” he says, going on to point out a distinct opportunity to emerge within the trying scenario. “Be creative, get inspired by other chefs and their signature dishes, take all the feedback you receive and simply strive to be better,” he challenges, adding that “it is also the perfect opportunity to be grateful.”

“We do it for people who believe, like us, that doing things with love and passion is the only way to run a good restaurant.”

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AKI

The menu at Japanese-inspired restaurant and lounge bar Aki focuses on a sharing concept known as ‘izakaya’ within a stylish Valletta location. Executive chef SANDRO DEGUARA reveals what has made it such a hit with diners since February 2020. Stemming from the concept of izakaya, a type of informal Japanese bar that serves alcoholic drinks and snacks, the contemporary Aki has received rave reviews since opening its doors. “So far, feedback and reception have been very positive, and we are really grateful for all the support and appreciation we constantly receive from all of our esteemed patrons,” maintains executive chef Sandro Deguara.

“We strongly believe that introducing new trends and concepts will not only keep the industry appealing for the local community but also leverages Malta’s touristic portfolio.” The menu at Aki is a varied one, featuring inspiration derived from Asian and Peruvian cuisines among others, Sandro reveals, being hard pressed to name favourites. “The wide variety on our menu makes it difficult to pick just one,” he smiles, adding, “volcano sushi, pork and soft-shell crab bao buns and robata grill place themselves on top.” Turning his attention to the local restaurant scene, the chef describes 2020 as “by far the most challenging and unprecedented year to date.” Notwithstanding this, he says that the local community has been very supportive and continues to be one of the industry’s main pillars. “The pandemic has brought with it a number of challenges. One of the most difficult ones we are facing is being able to maintain a top-level product whilst ensuring a good balance with protocols and regulations, so as to safeguard the well-being of our employees and patrons alike,” Sandro explains.

DARYL CAUCHI

Moving forward, the executive chef reveals that the focus for Aki will remain on delivering the best and most innovative concepts from around the globe – both in terms of cuisine and beverages. “We strongly believe that introducing new trends and concepts will not only keep the industry appealing for the local community but also leverages Malta’s touristic portfolio,” he says. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 33

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they are put together,” reveals Ingrid, adding that the gardens have also helped tremendously, allowing patrons to feel safe in an open space where they can still enjoy a pleasant lifestyle according to protocol that protects their health during a time dominated by COVID-19. The kitchen at Farmer’s Deli works with premium organic ingredients which are then worked into dishes from collective staples and updated to today’s preferences, Ingrid continues, naming their signature vegetable stir-fry in a delicate curry cream and cauliflower rice, and pumpkin risotto with amaretti crumble as prime examples. Other favourites include beef bourguignon with a potato pûrée and saltcrusted wild fish.

FARMER’S DELI ORGANIC BISTRO

Created as a showcase of an organic food concept which started from an online grocery retailing fresh fruit and vegetables, gourmet food, delicatessen and wine, Farmer’s Deli is run by INGRID ZERAFA, who is passionate about making clean, honest and traceable ingredients accessible and convenient. Ingrid Zerafa reveals that it was a natural transition which took Farmer’s Deli from online grocer to a shop and bistro set within the stunning gardens of Villa Bologna in Attard. “We felt the need to have a showcase of our concept where we could interact with our clients, to share knowledge about our products through information and tastings, and we could not find a more suitable place than Villa Bologna, where the concept of home-grown quality food and artisan work has been nurtured and passed on from generation to generation,” she explains. The result, opening its doors in February 2020, is a welcoming space in which people can shop, eat and relax over tasty food in a naturally beautiful environment. “Awareness of proper food has been increasing steadily, so we have been received amazingly well, for the taste of our dishes and their simplicity, as well as the love with which

“Awareness of proper food has been increasing steadily, so we have been received amazingly well, for the taste of our dishes and their simplicity, as well as the love with which they are put together.” 34 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Looking back on the last year, Ingrid affirms that, whichever way you look at it, the COVID-19 pandemic changed our habits, our lifestyle and the way we interact. In turn, this has impacted our social life, a lot of which happens in eating places. “Protocols and recurrent expenses do not necessarily cover each other, so it is unfortunate to see some realities fall by the wayside as they simply cannot make it by serving a handful of tables in a very unstable business environment. As humanity changes, so will demand, and supply. The test will be passed by those who keep feeling the pulse and adjust accordingly, with no expectations, but with the enthusiasm to embrace the new,” she continues.

MaltaInsider2021/2022

PETER MERCIECA

“Coming from a fine-dining background, we wanted to change it up a bit and create a concept of great food in a relaxed and cool environment whilst using great produce.”

HAMMETT’S MESTIZO

Hammett’s Mestizo, a meso-south American inspired fusion sharing dining experience, is the latest eatery created by multi-award-winning chef and restaurateur CHRIS HAMMETT, alongside Venezuelan head chef JORGE LUGO.

“Coming from a fine-dining background, we wanted to change it up a bit and create a concept of great food in a relaxed and cool environment whilst using great produce,” says Chris Hammett, revealing how he fell in love with south American cuisine while researching new horizons to explore, with the inspiration from a south American team led by head chef Jorge Lugo.

Looking back on the blows dealt by the COVID-19 pandemic, Chris says that the situation remains tough in the industry, with the main challenge for restaurants moving forward being survival and keeping staff. “Without the team we can’t operate. It’s tough, but I’m staying positive,” the restauranteur shares.

Having received fantastic feedback since opening as part of the Number 11 Urban Hotel in St Julian’s in October 2020, Hammett’s Mestizo offers a plates-toshare concept that explores the authentic flavours of Latin American cuisine and re-introduces them as a refined, casual dining experience. Meanwhile, a curated wine list features some of the best examples of south American winemaking, while the bar showcases a variety of premium Latin American spirits and an enticing cocktail menu. The capper to the concept, Chris continues, is the sourcing of single origin specialty coffees and chocolates from small farms, along with an exquisite cigar selection. Tasked with naming standout dishes on the menu, the chef highlights “the ceviche, which is fantastic, and the tacos, which are definitely a star dish – a lot of work goes into making the dough, and it results in an authentic corn flavour, which makes a big difference. The octopus on the asado menu is also a favourite. Cooked over a wood fire, it takes on an incredible flavour.”

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ION – THE HARBOUR

Throwing open its doors in November 2020 as part of the luxurious Iniala Harbour House and Residences, ION – The Harbour combines exceptional cuisine with stunning décor and breath-taking views of Malta’s Grand Harbour, and has already earned itself a covetable Michelin star.

“While we pride ourselves on our dedication to outstanding cuisine, at ION, it’s not just about the food,” affirmed former executive chef Andrew Borg – who has since moved on to a new project – describing the restaurant as a space where diners can enjoy the cuisine, the restaurant’s unique design and the incredible views, all within a casual family environment that is nonetheless extremely professional. The cuisine at ION is very produce-driven, and the team focuses on sourcing the very best produce depending on the climate and the time of year. Starting on 17th June 2021, Alex Dilling, former executive chef of two Michelin star restaurant The Greenhouse, Mayfair, began a 100-day residency at ION – The Harbour, giving patrons the opportunity to experience a unique treat during the summer months. During his residency, Alex is

“I believe that although people are dining out less, they are choosing their restaurants more carefully and opting for quality instead of run-of-the-mill.” making use of local, seasonal and artisanal ingredients that champion Mediterranean flavours, while bringing a number of his famed signature dishes, such as Hunter Chicken and Andignac foie gras with black truffle, to the table. Speaking of the difficulties the industry has encountered over the last year, former executive chef Andrew Borg maintained that while it’s a tough industry to be in, despite the pandemic, some restaurants have managed to thrive. “I believe that although people are dining out less, they are choosing their restaurants more carefully and opting for quality instead of run-of-the-mill.” As for challenges and opportunities, he lists finding consistency in quality ingredients as particularly difficult. “To overcome this, we are trying to get all our ingredients directly from local and foreign suppliers ourselves,” he shares, adding that the biggest opportunity is “providing discerning guests with a unique dining experience that focuses less on the quantity of diners but more on the quality of the experience provided.” This interview was carried out prior to Andrew Borg’s departure from ION – The Harbour. He has since joined the upscale Luna Restaurant by Palazzo Parisio.

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vinegars and salts,” he says, revealing that at the moment, he has around eight different ferments in progress which he is testing for the menu. Highlighting some of his personal favourite dishes from the menu, Carl lists a warm brioche among his top picks. “It is a delicate, light and heart-warming dessert which is not the initial impression guests get from a brioche,” he describes, revealing that he is also looking forward to finding new ways of changing this dish seasonally. Meanwhile, the salmon gravadlax is another personal favourite. “It is simple yet sophisticated, using local salt for curing which brings out the best element of this dish,” he explains, also mentioning a newly added pork belly dish “with light and fresh condiments, which make it perfect for a lunch during warm weather.”

THE BLACK EGG

Championing a refined brunch experience inspired by the owners’ travels, The Black Egg – named after its signature dish – welcomed its first diners in November 2020 and continues to delight with an array of exciting dishes created by head chef CARL CAUCHI. “We opened our doors to customers on 17th November 2020 and we still remember our very first order – a croque madame and eggs Benedict for our first customer,” recalls head chef Carl Cauchi, admitting that while they were aware that opening during a pandemic would be risky, the team has been overwhelmed by the response and positive feedback.

Speaking of the local restaurant scene, the head chef believes that the industry is evolving and growing, crediting the Michelin Guide’s presence in Malta with elevating the bar for chefs to exhibit their talent. “Watching old colleagues, chefs and friends receiving the prestigious award or being part of the team is such a great moment, especially during these hard times,” he says. Discussing the main challenges at present, Carl says that now more than ever, it is proving difficult to find staff. “It is a constant and daily challenge we have to deal with. Finding the right team is an essential part of being consistent and I am very thankful to have surrounded myself with the right people helping me through this journey,” he maintains.

“Our concept is based on elevated brunch dishes so as to create a menu which offers a variety for all guests,” says Carl, explaining that the small size of the restaurant enables him to really take advantage of techniques learnt during his time spent at The Black Swan, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Yorkshire, UK. “Having had the opportunity to work with these great chefs and gain new insights on how to maximise the potential of an ingredient, I brought this knowledge back to Malta and use it to create dishes incorporating ferments, flavoured

“Finding the right team is an essential part of being consistent and I am very thankful to have surrounded myself with the right people helping me through this journey.” Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 37

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DISCOVER THE ISLANDS’

magnificent

cities

through the eyes of a local

Rabat, Gozo

VIEWINGMALTA.COM/BOYAN CASPER ORSTE

Mdina

The Three Cities

VIEWINGMALTA.COM

VIEWINGMALTA.COM/COLOURSPEAK KERRY G

Valletta

Valletta, The Three Cities and Mdina in Malta, and Rabat in Gozo, should make it to any visitor’s list while holidaying on the islands. But where to begin? Martina Said speaks to a local resident from each city for their insight about the best places to visit – and what you absolutely shouldn’t miss. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 39

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VALLETTA

Konrad Buhagiar Excluding a few periods when he lived in Sliema, which is where he was born, Konrad Buhagiar, Executive Director at architecture firm, AP Valletta, has been living in Malta’s capital for 25 years – a city that has always captured his heart and was in fact the hometown of both his parents. “I settled there because, having returned from Rome where I completed my studies in Architectural Restoration, I was looking for a place which had all the qualities of an Italian town – vibrant, harmonious, architecturally stratified and with a rich past and optimistic, albeit uncertain, future.” There are countless features he loves about the city, including “the scale, its physical definition, surrounded as it is by its 16th century Renaissance military walls and by the sea, the beautiful and varied compositions of the façades of its buildings, the hints of the several cultures – from North African and Middle Eastern to European – that have determined its identity, the serendipity that permeates its spaces and the chance encounters that it generates.” For visitors setting foot inside the capital for the first time, Konrad recommends starting a tour from the new City Gate, designed by eminent architect, Renzo Piano, where the first building you’ll encounter is the Parliament Building, with its textured stone façade lifted above the street level by slender pilotis, also by the world-famous architect. “Perhaps the most iconic statement of contemporary architecture in the city, the building leads you to the ruins of the old Opera House, recently rehabilitated to contain a state-of-the-art outdoor theatre and from

there up to the Auberge de Castille and the Upper Barrakka, where a contemporary lift, designed by AP Valletta, will take you down to the waterfront. Morning coffee, facing the rising sun, in one of the bars or restaurants inserted in the Baroque stores that stand at the foot of the bastions, will provide a magnificent view of the Grand Harbour.” However, the most important monument within the city which cannot be excluded from your list of places to visit is St John’s Co-Cathedral, specifically its sumptuous interior, says Konrad, “with its polychrome floor composed of hundreds of sepulchral marble intarsia slabs which mark the graves and stories of the Knights of the Order of St John, its painted vault by the Calabrese painter Mattia Preti and, most of all, the magnificent paintings by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio – the ‘Beheading of St John’ in the Oratory and the ‘St Jerome’.” The Museum of Archaeology on Republic Street should also not be missed. “Its main exhibits are elements of prehistoric temples from the Neolithic period and artefacts, including the mysterious Sleeping Lady discovered in the Hypogeum, a prehistoric necropolis situated in the centre of the island.”

KONRAD’S FAVOURITE ATTRACTION: St John’s Co-Cathedral RESTAURANT: Trabuxu Bistro WATERING HOLE: Café Society SHOP: Opera Antiques WINTERTIME ACTIVITY: Lunch or dinner at Taproom SPOT FOR THE BEST VIEWS: My sofa

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THE THREE CITIES – BIRGU

Claude Zammit Trevisan

OLGA RUCCYA

Sharing some tips for first-time visitors, Claude recommends getting lost in the narrow alleyways and cobbled streets, all beautifully adorned with evergreen plants and flowers. “Most alleyways are pedestrian, and it is so relaxing to walk about aimlessly in the city and immerse fully into a magical Medieval atmosphere,” he explains. “I would say that a visit to the Collachio Quarter is a must for any first-time visitor – here one can see most of the original Knights’ auberges. The majestic Auberge de France is today the local municipality. Look out for the Norman House, one of Malta’s few examples of Siculo-Norman architecture.”

Claude Zammit Trevisan, founder of boutique shop Birgu Blue, first got acquainted with the fortified city of Birgu – one of three cities in the south of Malta aptly referred to as The Three Cities – around the year 2000 while working on a research project within his professional capacity as a tourism expert with the Malta Tourism Authority. “Back then, Birgu was hardly a tourism zone, and very few tourists visited. Even Maltese people hailing from other parts of the island were scarce,” he says, “but immediately I recognised the immense potential of this enchanting city, the jewel in the crown of the Three Cities of Birgu, Bormla and L-Isla.” Particularly intrigued by the traditional townhouses in the area, Claude jumped at the chance to purchase a home there when the opportunity presented itself. “In 2002, I moved to Italy to further my studies. I had an acquaintance who let me know of a renowned Milanese architect who had acquired a wonderful property in Birgu’s Collachio with splendid views of the Grand Harbour, and who was looking to sell it,” Claude explains. “I went to view the house on my next trip to Malta. It was love at first sight, and I acquired it without much hesitation.” The community spirit of Birgu is one aspect of the city that Claude loves, as well as the pride locals take in their locality and the magical atmosphere of the city lit up at night. “I feel privileged to call myself a resident of this enchanting city. Who wouldn’t be, when you live next to centuries-old palaces and auberges, with a history so intricately linked to that of the Order of the Knights of St John?”

Singling out an unmissable highlight of the city, Claude says Fort St Angelo is an absolute must-see. From the stunning views to the fascinating history of Malta and the role this fortress played through the years – from the Great Siege of 1565 to Operation Pedestal in 1942 – it is an unmistakable gem. However, he also recommends a visit to other museums and attractions, including the Maritime Museum, the Inquisitor’s Palace, the Malta at War Museum, St Lawrence Conventual Church and Oratory, and St Dominic’s Church and priory.

CLAUDE’S FAVOURITE ATTRACTION: Malta Maritime Museum. I love going in there and discovering a new artefact or meeting Liam Gauci, the museum’s indefatigable curator. RESTAURANT: If I’m pressed for time, my favourite restaurant is South Eat 55, a small family-run take-away in the city’s Main Square. If I’m looking for an authentic home-cooked dinner experience, Tal-Petut restaurant ticks all the boxes. WATERING HOLE: St Lawrence Band Club for a beer with friends. SHOP: Birgu Blue! Located just off the Main Square, this boutique shop is a treasure trove for decorative lifestyle and foodie gifts. Leather artisan, Ozzy, crafts beautiful accessories which can also be personalised. WINTERTIME ACTIVITY: Visiting a wine bar and artisanal shopping in the boutique shops and colourful galleries. Also Birgu by Candelight, an annual event held in October that’s synonymous with the city. SPOT FOR THE BEST VIEWS: The view from the open terraces of Fort St Angelo is nothing short of spectacular, while the view from the walkway behind the Monastery of Santa Scolastica must be my favourite at night-time.

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SUSAN’S FAVOURITE

MDINA

Susan Zammit Tabona Born and raised in Mdina, Susan Zammit Tabona’s childhood and life are intricately woven with the city. She lived there for around 30 years before moving to St Julian’s, “however, I have always held Mdina in a special place in my heart, and four years ago, I managed to convince my husband to move back to this magical city”, which is where the family business, including the five-star The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, is based. Residing in a home that dates to 1280, Susan says that Mdina is steeped in history, and this can be felt by simply walking through the narrow streets. “If only the buildings could tell us some of their stories!” Having been brought up in this charming city, Susan says her fondest memories tied to family and school are all preserved within the walls of Mdina. “I feel very privileged that I have returned to my city of birth. Mdina is unique in more ways than one. The local council does a great job in keeping the city clean and tidy, and the residents are all very kind and helpful – it really is a special community.”

ATTRACTION: There are several little chapels dedicated to different saints, my favourite being the chapel of St Peter, situated at the bottom of St Peter’s Street. RESTAURANT: de Mondion, located within The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, which has recently been awarded one Michelin star. The atmosphere and views from the terrace are breath-taking. WATERING HOLE: Trattoria AD 1530, situated in Council Square. One can enjoy the architecture of the square and the old law court building, Palazzo Vilhena, right opposite. WINTERTIME ACTIVITY: An afternoon stroll through the city’s streets, when the sun is shining and the wind isn’t blowing. SPOT FOR THE BEST VIEWS: The top of Bastion Square – on a clear day, one can even see Sicily’s Mount Etna in the distance.

Susan adds that Mdina doesn’t have any grocery shops – one must head to Rabat for this. “However, twice a week, a lovely lady named Joanne comes to sell her homegrown fruit and vegetables from her van in the Cathedral Square. These are superb, and it is also an opportunity to have a chat with the neighbours.” Highlighting the city’s must-see spots, Susan highly recommends a visit to the Metropolitan Cathedral of St Paul and the Cathedral Museum, where a wonderful collection of silver and etchings by artist Albrecht Dürer can be seen. A visit to Palazzo Falson, a Norman house on Villegaignon Street, displaying the private collection of the Gollcher Foundation, is also a must. “A very interesting local artisan found in Mdina is the gilder in Villegaignon Street. This wonderful and intricate craft has been handed down for three generations. One can also find a specialty ice-cream shop, Fior di Latte, on Bastion Square – the mango ice-cream is to die for. I would always recommend exploring the winding streets and gazing up to observe the buildings’ architecture.”

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RABAT, GOZO

Maria Frendo

Sharing what she loves most about where she lives, Maria singles out her house. “It’s large with acres of space for anything you wish to do and it’s where family and friends congregate. The city of Rabat is also a place I have nurtured fond memories of – our childhood was spent there, and despite the proximity to just about everyone you know, you can always retreat to spaces you can call your own,” she explains. “I have also been very much involved in our parish of St George, which is a stone’s throw away from home. Basically, the centre of Rabat resonates with memories I have accrued over the years, and that’s lovely.” Sharing her own insight for visitors, Maria says that Gozo is laid back, particularly in comparison to Malta and Rabat – also known as Victoria, a name given to it during the British rule to mark Queen Victoria’s diamond jubilee – is located smack in the centre of the island, which you’ll need to go through to access the furthermost points of Gozo. “While it’s bustling with activity in the morning, you find yourself in a lull in the afternoon, a place where, to use Tennyson’s words, ‘the poppy hangs in sleep’, especially on sultry summer afternoons. There isn’t much to do on a winter evening, so a visit to one of the lovely restaurants is the best way to relax,” says Maria.

MARIA’S FAVOURITE ATTRACTION: St George’s Basilica RESTAURANT: It-Tmun WATERING HOLE: St George’s Cafe SHOP: Sufa WINTERTIME ACTIVITY: Walking and running SPOT FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Il-Hagar Museum rooftop and the Cittadella

JAMES MOFFETT

“I was born and bred in Rabat, Gozo. I work in Malta and spent years studying abroad. At the end of a long day, I always gravitate towards home. I have never settled for long anywhere else away from home. There’s everything I love there,” says Maria Frendo, a senior lecturer in the Department of English at the University of Malta.

However, Rabat in summer is rather different, and can get quite busy. “In a normal, COVID-free time, feasts are organised, which are always very popular. The feast of St George occurs in the heart of Rabat in mid-July, and as a build-up to that there is the Victoria International Arts Festival (VIAF), a fiveweek-long festival of classical music. This is Malta’s longest-running festival of its kind, of which the 24th uninterrupted edition was held this year. It hosts musicians from all over the world and it has become a point of reference for excellence and high-profile entertainment.” Maria adds that there are some extraordinarily beautiful churches in Rabat that shouldn’t be missed. Apart from St George’s, which lies in the heart of the old town, a visit to the Cittadella and the Cathedral is always worthwhile. “The place offers spectacular views of all of Gozo. There are also 15th and 16th century monasteries which are beautifully maintained. What is also remarkable about Rabat is that a fiveminute walk from the centre of town will take you to the most spectacular countryside you can think of.” Despite being a resident of the city for most of her life, Maria says there is always something new to discover, even when walking the same street every day. “Be it a little window you never noticed, the profile of a balcony, or the way the light falls on the façade of a house at a particular time of day – you just need to allow your sensibilities to resonate with the place: it will not fail you!”

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VIEWINGMALTA.COM

Moving to

Malta

These are the top localities to consider on the islands

Fallen in love with the Maltese islands and looking to settle here? We don’t blame you! The islands offer myriad possibilities depending on what you want from your new hometown, so it’s important to consider your options before taking the plunge. Sarah Micallef is here to help, with a round-up of the islands’ top localities and what you can expect from the different parts of Malta.

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SLIEMA AND ST JULIAN’S A popular choice for many expats, the towns of Sliema and St Julian’s boast a large expat community, and it’s easy to see why. They offer an exciting social life, and benefit from being close to many businesses and places of work. The downside is that they’re among the most expensive addresses in Malta and may not be the best option if you’re looking for a quiet place to settle down.

VALLETTA Once known for going quiet after dark, Malta’s capital city has undergone a major renaissance in recent years, making it one of the trendiest places to live, work and play on the island. It’s very well connected, with all buses ending their journey here, but again, it’s not a cheap option. If you’re looking to be close to the capital but have a stricter budget, the neighbouring suburb of Floriana offers more reasonably priced options.

CENTRAL AREAS LIKE BIRKIRKARA, MOSTA AND ‘THE THREE VILLAGES’ If you’re looking for a well-connected base that will give you an authentic feel of life on the island, central Malta is hard to beat. Towns like Birkirkara, Mosta, Naxxar and ‘the three villages’ of Lija, Balzan and Attard have good transport links to most other towns and villages, and are mostly residential, making them perfect for raising a family.

SOUTHERN AREAS SUCH AS MARSAXLOKK, MARSASCALA AND THE THREE CITIES While fewer expats tend to favour the southern part of the island, the villages and towns here make for a great option if you’re after a charming, traditional place to live. Each has its own distinct character and oozes local flavour, yet most aren’t as well connected as other parts of the island, so having your own transport is essential. The communities here are very close-knit yet generally welcoming, particularly if you learn at least a few words and phrases in Maltese.

GOZO The sister island of Gozo enjoys an altogether different character to the main island, and is popular among expats who are looking for a quiet, peaceful place with plenty of green spaces to settle down in. Gozo is accessible via a ferry that leaves Cirkewwa every 45mins, as well as a recently introduced fast ferry system that takes you directly to the capital city of Valletta, which is particularly handy if you need to commute regularly for work (or play!)

BUGIBBA AND MELLIEHA The towns of Bugibba and Mellieha in the north of the island are also popular with expats, particularly coming from the UK. Both are considered resort towns, though have quite a different character to each other. Bugibba is bustling in the summer months and goes quiet in winter, while Mellieha, despite getting busy along its beaches, enjoys a more rural, quiet way of life year-round.

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What the

experts say Naxxar

Ta’ Xbiex

“Malta is small enough to be a very desirable location in its entirety, however, some spots are definitely more sought after than others,” explains Alex Papagiorcopulo, Branch Manager at Homes of Quality. Naming Sant Maria Estate in Mellieha, Madliena and San Pawl tat-Targa as the “villa areas to look out for” if you’re in the market for such a property, he goes on to highlight Sliema, St Julian’s and Ta’ Xbiex as the top locations for anyone wishing a home in the heart of the island. “Proximity to the sea, shopping malls and districts, restaurants and night clubs are the main factors driving such demand,” he maintains, adding that “these locations promote a particular lifestyle with all amenities within reach and lovely promenades overlooking the Mediterranean sea.” On the market – €1,750,000 An exquisitely finished and furnished sixth floor apartment in one of Malta’s most sought-after seafront developments. The entrance leads onto a spacious hallway with an onyx mural that sheds light into the central part of the property. An impressive 90 square metre open plan houses a fully equipped kitchen complete with high-end appliances and wine cellar, a living area, dining area and reading corner which lead on to a very spacious terrace with outdoor lounge, dining table and BBQ area overlooking the Ta’ Xbiex Marina and Valletta skyline. To the rear of the apartment, a glassed office, storage areas, laundry room, two guest double bedrooms with en suite and master bedroom with full size walk-in wardrobe and en suite facilities. Complementing this truly spectacular property is a two-car lock-up garage directly beneath the development.

“For the past 20 years, Naxxar has grown into a buzzing town with a vibrant town centre,” says Tony Scicluna, Attard Branch Manager at Dhalia Real Estate, explaining, “the area around the parish church is surrounded by quality and trendy restaurants and cafeterias, along with several historical sites,” referencing 18th century palaces Palazzo Parisio and Palazzo Nasciaro. With its annual village feast being held on 8th September, Naxxar is an urban conservation area, and boasts some of the most beautiful and most sought-after villa areas, including Birguma and San Pawl tat-Targa, he continues. “Naxxar is also very close to the ‘three villages’ of Attard, Balzan and Lija, which are worth mentioning. Attard is home to San Anton Gardens and Palace, which is the home of the President of the Republic, the American Ambassador’s residence, and Villa Bologna to name a few,” he adds, noting that the three villages are all a stone’s throw away from the old capital of Mdina. “This prime central area is one of the top performing locations for property on the island,” Mr Scicluna says. On the market – €1,120,000 Beautifully designed house of character converted from an 18th-century building found within the village core of Naxxar. Retaining its old charm, the property consists of a welcoming hall leading to a separate kitchen, opening up to a living room and a dining room in the main courtyard with a retractable skylight. Additionally, one finds a front courtyard with a pool and sun deck area. The property boasts a total of six double bedrooms, majority featuring a balcony, as well as a sun terrace and a roof terrace.

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Tigné Point

“Tigné Point, an SDA (Special Designated Area) development, is one of the most sought-after locations on the island and the demand for this residential area has continued to grow,” says Miguel Bonello, Director of Oyster Real Estate. “Facing the breath-taking backdrop of the 16th century Valletta bastions, Tigné and the surrounding areas have so much to offer their residents: shopping, restaurants, cafés, bars, entertainment, parking, fitness centres and spas. It’s no wonder this has become a real estate hotspot in Malta.” On the market – €2,100,000 This spectacular residence boasts three double bedrooms, two lock-up garages, a home sauna room, private outdoor terraces, marble flooring and spacious, open-plan living spaces. With an ample 230 square metre floor area, the multitude of windows and open apertures within the property open up the interior and illuminate it with natural light. The property and residential swimming pool are easily accessible by elevator from the underground parking facilities. This property is complete with luxury finishes, central heating and air-conditioning throughout, custom-made furnishings, a designer kitchen, state-of-the-art appliances, sound system, clever storage solutions and much more.

Zabbar

“It’s no secret that the ‘villa area’ hotspot is Madliena, especially those villas commanding views,” explains Sara Grech, Chairperson at Engel & Völkers Malta, affirming that the reason for this is that “this location is right at the edge of our most popular area of St Julian’s, which houses unique and exclusive waterfront marina development Portomaso, that is well known for its luxury penthouses and apartments.” Another popular location for villas, she continues, is Mellieha in the north of Malta, particularly an area known as Santa Maria. “This location also has homes with larger outdoor areas. The advantage here is that the road design takes you from the hilltop to the sea, allowing most of the homes to enjoy magnificent views of Mellieha bay and beyond,” the real estate expert maintains. “Then, there are the old houses built with passion and romance, which make for a special place for those that enjoy history,” she continues, adding that prime examples of these can be found throughout the island, particularly towards the southern areas like Zabbar and Qrendi, which is home to two well-known Neolithic temples called Mnajdra and Hagar Qim, which she considers “Malta’s main pre-historic site and a UNESCO World Heritage site overlooking the wide expanse of the Mediterranean sea and the islet of Filfla.” On the market – €1,500,000 Located on the outskirts of Zabbar just outside of Kalkara and minutes away from Kalkara Marina, this stunning townhouse is situated at the end of a street and enjoys total privacy, within a quiet location overlooking open green views. At ground level, the townhouse welcomes you with a lovely entrance hall, a study to the left and a two-car interconnected garage to the right. Beyond the entrance is a large open plan kitchen/living area and a dining area overlooking a spectacular garden and swimming pool. At first floor level there is a large landing which can be used as a second living space and three spacious bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a laundry room. 50 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

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Investing in

Malta

2021/2022

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OPEN FOR BUSINESS:

INVESTING IN

Malta

in 2021 and BEYOND

Last year saw economic certainties upended as the COVID-19 pandemic swept across the globe. Yet, in 2021, what is Malta’s capacity to continue attracting foreign direct investment (FDI)? In this business supplement, Rebecca Anastasi looks at the island’s business and investment outlook for the next few months, outlining the regulatory framework in place, as well as those opportunities ripe for the picking.

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“Official statistics by the National Statistics Office show an increase of foreign direct investment flows in the first half of 2020.”

ince its independence in 1964, Malta has focused its energies into diversifying its economy, intent on attracting foreign investment to its shores – through tourism, corporate services and human capital. Indeed, for decades, this strategy has borne fruit. Moreover, Malta’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) has burgeoned over the years, despite the predictable slump experienced in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. And forecasts are encouraging – if the EU Commission’s forecast for 2021 growth materialises, Malta’s GDP will reach €11.9 billion this year, similar to that of 2018. And although, as expected, the tourism and retail sectors registered significant drops during the pandemic, there was no loss in value-added in the rest of the economy; on the contrary, growth was registered in 2020, spurred by activity in iGaming, ICT, financial services and construction. Moreover, with a highly successful vaccination programme underway – Malta was the first EU member state to achieve herd immunity in May 2021 – opportunities are ripe for the picking. So, what are the prospects of doing business in Malta in 2021 and beyond? MALTA AS A BUSINESS AND INVESTMENT HUB With its low corporate tax regime, Malta’s attractiveness as a business and investment jurisdiction has, for years, remained strong, drawing in substantial Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) across myriad sectors. And FDI is likely to remain strong over the next few months, despite the worldwide fallout from the COVID-19 crisis. Indeed, official statistics by the National Statistics Office (NSO) show an increase of foreign direct investment flows in the first half of 2020. These were estimated to be

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€1.7 billion from January to June last year – an increase of €72.4 million over the same period in 2019, with financial and insurance activities accounting for 89.4 per cent of these amounts. In addition, the EY Malta Attractiveness Survey 2020 – the latest survey of the island’s investment landscape, issued by accountancy firm, Ernst & Young – corroborates this assessment of the country’s healthy FDI portfolio. 62 per cent of respondents, out of a total of 116 current FDI investors, stated that they regard Malta to be an

“Malta’s GDP will increase 5 per cent in 2021; 5.5 per cent in 2022; and 4.7 per cent in 2023.”

attractive destination, with four out of five current investors in the country still likely to be present on the island in 10 years’ time. Malta’s corporate tax regime, a framework which encourages investment into the island through the establishment of favourable tax rates, is principally credited for such loyalty, with an attractiveness score of 82 per cent in the EY survey. Telecommunications services also recorded high levels of satisfaction, gaining a score of 68 per cent, solidifying their position as the second principal reason why investors come – and stay – on the island. Moreover, the survey indicates that this latter strength may continue to build momentum in the wake of the pandemic, as digital services spread their reach and become more endemic to business structures. The report also highlights the high scores attained by human resource capabilities on the island, a jurisdiction which has consistently registered high levels of employment.

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Yet, looking long-term – and taking a historical view of Malta’s evolving investment landscape – the EY survey also points to areas for improvement, underlining that the island’s corporate tax regime “cannot be our only trump card”. This is particularly so in a postCOVID-19 world, it states, arguing that further diversification can only benefit those who decide to invest on the island, as well as the country itself. Moreover, while the pandemic saw half of Malta’s potential investors postpone or, even, reduce their investment plans – with the ICT, telecoms and banking sectors being particularly affected – prospects are looking up as recovery continues to garner pace across the European Union this year. BOUNCING BACK: THE OUTLOOK FOR MALTA’S ECONOMY, 2021 The economic disruption caused by the coronavirus crisis cannot be underestimated, with it having had a negative impact on economic activity which declined by 13 per cent last year over the same period in 2019, according to the NSO. Yet, virus figures have now substantially dropped, allowing the authorities to ease restrictions and further reopen Malta’s economy. As a result, stakeholders and analysts have predicted a healthy financial recovery: German credit rating agency, Scope Ratings, has recently accorded Malta an A+ credit rating, highlighting the island’s stable outlook, and potential for growth across various sectors. Moreover, in February, the Central Bank of Malta published projections which show that Malta’s GDP will increase 5 per cent in 2021; 5.5 per cent in 2022; and 4.7 per cent in 2023, as long as the situation remains stable, and inoculations continue at a healthy rate.

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Effective Government measures, aiming to support business and the economy in the medium-term, will continue to be instrumental to ensuring a full and vibrant recovery, although these will also impact public coffers: by the end of 2020, the Government’s Consolidated Fund reported a deficit of €1,467.9 million, as recurrent revenue amounted to €4,389.3 million, 11.7 per cent lower than a year earlier. Yet, the fluctuations experienced over the past 18 months have been – and will continue to be – offset by the stability in the labour market, with employment levels having remained consistently high for several years. This is reflected in the official figures. Taking a close look at the latest data, in the latest report, covering October 2020, registered fulltime employment increased by 4.1 per cent while part-time employment as a primary job decreased by 9.7 per cent when compared to the corresponding month in 2019. The highest rises in employment were recorded in administrative and support service activities, human health and social work activities, while full-time self-employed rose by 2,420 when compared to October 2019. Full-time employment for men rose by 3.6 per cent, while that for women increased by 4.7 per cent over 2019 levels. Malta’s strong performance in keeping unemployment at bay is a positive indicator, signalling a wide pool of available talent. And this, together with the regulatory and legal framework in place for investors seeking opportunities on the island, may continue to determine the rate of FDI and international economic activity actually injected into the country throughout the course of the next year. Government’s efforts are reaping fruit so far – in 2020, Malta Enterprise, Malta’s economic development agency tasked with attracting new FDI, managed to attract more single FDI projects compared to 2019.

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A COMPETITIVE REGULATORY AND LEGAL FRAMEWORK, RIGHT IN THE HEART OF THE EU As a member of the European Union and of the eurozone, Malta enjoys seamless passporting rights across the entire bloc, with a regulatory and legal framework – currently spearheaded by the Ministry for the Economy, Investment and Small Business – which has attracted millions in investment over recent decades. Indeed, according to Geraldine Noel, the Director of legal and advisory firm, Acumum, “Malta’s competitive tax laws and regulations underpin, from an investment perspective, the most compelling argument to invest in Malta.” Licences and permits are required, and companies must ensure they are au courant with the latest developments, securing the necessary paperwork to commence operations on the island. In the realm of financial services, the Malta Financial and Services Authority regulates and monitors activity in the industry, while the Malta Gaming Authority oversees the iGaming sector, an industry which, in 2019, contributed €1.56 billion to the country’s economy. In the area of digital technologies, the Malta Digital Innovation Authority, regulated by the MDIA Act of 2018, empowers the entity to promote Government policies in supporting stakeholders in the field, thus monitoring quality and providing operational frameworks.

“Malta’s competitive tax laws and regulations underpin, from an investment perspective, the most compelling argument to invest in Malta.” GERALDINE NOEL, DIRECTOR, ACUMUM Sector-wide institutions are also on hand to provide aid, whether financial or advisory. The Malta Development Bank offers a spate of schemes and facilities to provide financial solutions, through its intermediaries, to businesses seeking a cash injection or soft loans. Covering the realm of human resources, Jobsplus and Identity Malta oversee the implementation of human resource legislation, processing work permit applications and producing statistics on the level of employment on the island. Yet, Malta’s regulatory regime has come under fire in recent years: in 2019, Malta failed an assessment drawn up by Moneyval, a Council of Europe monitoring body overseeing compliance to international standards in fighting money laundering and financial crime. This precipitated widespread changes to Maltese legislation to avoid greylisting as a high-risk jurisdiction. And, although, in May 2021, an assessment by Moneyval indicated that Malta had made “significant progress” in bolstering

“Through this scheme, foreign investors can purchase property within the SDA, whilst enjoying the same acquisition rights benefitting Maltese citizens and without the need of securing an AIP (Acquisition of Immovable Property) permit.”

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its prevention of financial crime, a month later, the Financial Action Task Force – the global money laundering and terrorist financing watchdog – decided to greylist the island, with the Government pledging accelerated reforms that could potentially lead to Malta making a swift exit from the undesirable grey list. To this effect, stakeholders have emphasised the necessity to keep building on the good progress

achieved so far and the need to accelerate reforms. “Improving Malta’s reputation is essential to ensure the continued confidence of all interested parties – whether this is the individual investor, corporates or indeed other participants in the financial services industry such as banks and other financing parties,” Ms Noel underlines. “Maintaining robust and transparent laws and requirements in the areas of anti-money laundering and anti-terrorism provides comfort to all persons and entities who wish to do business in Malta.”

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INVESTING IN THE RIGHT PROPERTY With its warm climes and substantial expat community, Malta is also popular with those seeking to invest in property, with a buoyant buy-to-let market in the central areas of St Julian’s, Sliema, Gzira, and their surrounding areas. And with the delineation of Special Designated Areas (SDAs), a label allocated to developments of apartments and penthouses specifically targeting EU and non-EU nationals, foreign investors can, through this scheme, purchase property within the SDA, whilst enjoying the same acquisition rights benefitting Maltese citizens and without the need of securing an AIP (Acquisition of Immovable Property) permit. Moreover, the buyer is able to purchase a limitless number of properties and can lease them out once the ink is dry on the sales agreement. Since these properties have been determined to be a suitable investment vehicle, many SDA areas are located in popular locales, and boast amenities such as swimming pools, parking facilities, gardens and gyms. In Malta, some of the most popular SDAs include property at Portomaso and Pender Place in St Julian’s; Fort Cambridge in Tigné; as well as Southridge in Mellieha. In Gozo, Fort Chambray, in Ghajnsielem; and the Kempinski Residences, in San Lawrenz, offer such favourable conditions. The island also has a plethora of commercial and office leasing opportunities: Trident Park and The Quad in Mriehel as well as Mercury Tower and Aragon House in St Julian’s, all promise an exclusive address for companies looking to expand a physical presence on the island. Many of these office complexes offer a high-end experience, with in-house gyms, parking, and shopping centres attached, providing employers, and their employees, with plenty of after-hours entertainment. SPOTLIGHT ON: MALTA’S THRIVING BUSINESS SECTORS In 2018, Malta registered a total of 54,739 active business entities, an increase of 9.1 per cent over 2017, according to statistics released by the NSO – and this number has continued to increase, with significant strides made in the iGaming sector, FinTech, as well as ICT. Indeed, by way of example, in its interim Annual Report for 2020, the Malta Gaming Authority (MGA) underlined the buoyancy in the sector, saying that the gaming

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“Within the shifting sands, seeds of opportunity can be sown which will prove ripe for the picking.” industry boasted 318 licensed companies with the total employment estimated to be 8,009, approximately, and the contribution of the sector to the country’s Gross Value Added (GVA), including its indirect effects, standing at 10.6 per cent. The iGaming industry hasn’t been the only sector which has experienced a healthy return. Legislative reforms have opened the way to so-called ‘disruptors’ – economic endeavours which push the boundaries in innovation and societal reform. The medical cannabis industry is one such area: in 2018, Government enacted the Production of Cannabis for Medicinal Use Act, aiming to encourage investment by entities focused on producing and distributing cannabis in medical scenarios. This also reflects the vibrancy of the life sciences and pharmaceutical sectors on the island, which, combined, made up 17 per cent of Malta’s GDP by the end of 2019 and which are regulated by the Malta Medicines Authority. Public investment has also been made to increase these sectors’ profiles, with the Life Sciences Park, situated close to the University of Malta, boasting top-of-the-range facilities to encourage research and development in the area. In tune with these developments, the EY Malta Attractiveness Survey 2020 predicts that those sectors driving growth on the island over the next years will reflect a trend whereby business investment will return to “Malta’s roots”. Indeed, its survey specifies that, in spite of the coronavirus pandemic, its respondents believe that tourism and leisure will continue to lead the way, followed by iGaming; aviation; ICT and telecommunications; pharmaceuticals and biotechnology, and, finally – the newer kid on the block – digital media and games. Yet, if there’s one thing that COVID-19 has taught the world, it’s that estimates, and predictions remain just that – suppositions which may or may not become reality. This is not a cue for pessimism, however, for within the shifting sands, seeds of opportunity can be sown which will prove ripe for the picking.

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‘Innovation is at the heart of what we do’ Malta Enterprise CEO Kurt Farrugia discusses the agency’s continued central role throughout the trying months of COVID-19, and tells Sarah Micallef about all the work being done to forge ahead – both in terms of safeguarding Malta’s business and exploring new avenues to aid the island’s economic regeneration.

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during the pandemic, to which the general public reached out for assistance when it was needed most. “This human touch is important, and cannot be understated,” he says.

Indeed, he says, the pandemic brought on a new workload for Malta Enterprise; that of managing the majority of Government’s financial package, consisting mainly of the wage supplement, through which 100,000 jobs were sustained, making up just less than 50 per cent of the local workforce.

On top of this, Malta Enterprise’s other responsibilities continued throughout the pandemic – aiding local and foreign investors set up in Malta, as well as to carry out their expansion projects. Mr Farrugia describes this as “fundamental” so as to maintain the normal functioning of the island’s economy, affirming that “we must stimulate investment, while at the same time, provide a helping hand for the many enterprises adversely affected by the pandemic. In this way, we have a resilient, diversified economy, which will be better equipped for the challenges ahead and will come out of the COVID crisis even stronger.”

As Malta’s Economic Development Agency, we are responsible for not only attracting Foreign Direct Investment (FDI), but also maintaining the country’s business climate to ensure that it thrives and grows,” says Malta Enterprise Chief Executive Officer, Kurt Farrugia, looking back on a year like no other, in which Malta Enterprise played an integral role, financing 51 per cent of total aid announced by Government to combat the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic.

“Malta Enterprise has been at the forefront during the last year and a half, as we administered more than half a billion euro in financial aid under various schemes,” Mr Farrugia explains, mentioning several support measures including the teleworking scheme, quarantine leave, and rent and electricity refund schemes, apart from Malta’s wage supplement. “Every effort is being made to ensure that the inevitable financial suffering brought on by the pandemic – for both businesses, and their employees – is alleviated by our COVID relief funds,” he continues, affirming that some 16,000 companies have benefitted from such support measures to date. “This is no small feat, but we are determined to keep moving in a positive direction,” the CEO notes. Meanwhile, through its client-facing Business1st services, Malta Enterprise has been a front-liner

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In keeping with this, following the EU-UK Trade and Cooperation Agreement reached last December, Malta Enterprise launched a Brexit website, through which businesses and self-employed individuals operating from Malta could take a Brexit Impact Check. “Malta Enterprise has been leading national efforts in preparing for the Brexit impact,” says the CEO, explaining that the Brexit Impact Check aims to offer a test to local businesses so that they can get a reality check on their state of readiness for Brexit. Apart from this, the agency has also devised a scheme aimed at assisting SMEs with consultancy expertise required to mitigate Brexit’s impact. This runs in parallel with other schemes which assist businesses in re-thinking their operations and strategies, helping them to transform and change to grow, as well as to develop their business, go digital and sustainable, among other innovative strategies,

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“Malta Enterprise has been at the forefront during the last year and a half, as we administered more than half a billion euro in financial aid under various schemes.”

he maintains, adding, “at Malta Enterprise, we know how important innovation is. We want to impart this culture of innovation to our clients, so that they stand the best chance of thriving, whatever the future holds.” In fact, Malta Enterprise also recently launched national portal, startinmalta.com, which, the CEO says, puts the island in line with the EU’s Startup Standards of Excellence. The portal displays the Malta Enterprise schemes targeting start-ups, from their inception phase, to scale-up and growth. This means that they can rely on Malta Enterprise for assistance at every stage of their development. Discussing the reasons why a start-up should consider Malta as its new base of operations, the CEO lists several factors, among them Malta Enterprise’s financial assistance, which can see highly innovative startups obtain up to €1.2 million in grants and repayable advances. “Combined with Malta Enterprise’s soft

services of guidance and facilitation, the investor is to find a solid base for business operations,” he continues, adding other factors, such as the fact that Malta hosts around 25 per cent of its population as expats, which, combined with the close connection to major cities in Europe, makes it easy to source talent. In February, Government announced the launch of a drone innovation ecosystem, through which Malta Enterprise and Transport Malta worked together to create an opportunity for foreign and local companies to give training, carry out tests, and build drones in Malta. Describing Malta as “the ideal test base for drone operations”, citing favourable weather conditions which permit drone flying for most days during the year, Mr Farrugia goes on to highlight other factors that work in the island’s favour in this regard. “The sea provides significant space for safety bubbles and corridors for flying, and the fact that we are an

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island makes it easy for a drone to fly at sea with minimal interruptions on land.” “Drones will massively disrupt the status quo in ways we cannot yet imagine,” he says, mentioning several use cases beyond food delivery, including survey of assets like photovoltaics, building, energy infrastructure, use in agriculture, delivery in relation to health and offshore deliveries, among others. In tandem, with Government having been working to position Malta as a digital hub in recent years, and with the island offering some of the best healthcare in the world, Malta Enterprise also believes that it is well placed to house innovations in emerging tech for the global medical ecosystem. “Med-Tech is one of the opportunities arising due to COVID-19, for various reasons,” explains Mr Farrugia, affirming that Malta already hosts numerous start-ups in this sphere. “Malta Enterprise’s fast-paced approach is ideal to attract these companies and assist them in setting up their base here. Our proposition is strong, valuable but also flexible to their diverse and specific needs,” he says, describing the agency as a key facilitator, due to its ongoing co-operation with the University of Malta and direct access to decision-makers, such as the Medicines Authority. Meanwhile, another industry that has been hailed among those expected to drive Malta’s economic growth further for some time is FinTech, and according to the CEO, it has continued to grow during the pandemic. “The eco-system continued to develop and we are now also seeing interactions between FinTech companies operating in Malta. We remain

“We must stimulate investment, while at the same time, provide a helping hand for the many enterprises adversely affected by the pandemic.” committed to help this sector grow even further through our various financial and fiscal assistance, as well as through the softer side of Malta Enterprise.” Indeed, as the COVID-19 situation improves locally, focus has well and truly shifted towards regenerating the economy. Other schemes will assist the transformation of business operations and models in a postCOVID scenario, he continues, with an emphasis on digitisation and sustainability. “The Change to Grow Scheme, Restart Incentive Scheme, and Smart & Sustainability Investment Scheme provide opportunities for businesses to re-think, engage consultants, and implement the changes,” the CEO highlights, affirming that “the pandemic has forced a paradigm shift in this regard, and is perhaps the silver lining we have been looking for.” “We are very optimistic about the regeneration of the Maltese economy, but with caution, given that the COVID-19 situation is still very fluid across the globe,” he concludes, referencing the possibility of new threats emerging at any moment. Still, the CEO believes that “Malta’s swift response and prompt implementation of mitigating measures have translated into the nation managing the pandemic quite well.” Pointing out that Malta is a leader within Europe in terms of its vaccine roll-out, surpassing more than 80 per cent herd immunity by end of June 2021, and that it is also the first country in Europe to issue a vaccine certificate in order to facilitate tourism and business travel, Mr Farrugia says, “the message is simple; Malta is open to business. Innovation is at the heart of what we do, and is clearly required to rapidly adapt to unforeseen circumstances.” www.maltaenterprise.com

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A global approach Since its establishment in 2018, financial services platform, Globiance, has aimed to offer virtual currency services, facilitating banking to global high-risk industries, while also offering solutions for cryptocurrencies. Here, its Chief Executive Officer, Oliver Marco La Rosa, discusses the company’s motivations and its plans for the future.

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ith the financial services landscape shifting fast, Globiance, a banking platform catering to clients across the globe, was set up in 2018, with its eye firmly fixed on what the future may hold. Indeed, its founders were “motivated by the desire to forge a bridge between the traditional financial industry and the extremely promising digital currencies,” such as cryptocurrencies, its Chief Executive Officer, Oliver Marco La Rosa, explains. With an acute understanding of the shifting sands, the company was unafraid to venture into servicing sectors usually considered riskier and provide virtual currency offerings. “Currently, we are witnessing a major shift in people’s priorities when it comes to taking charge of their financial freedom. Since time immemorial, traditional systems have failed to provide substantial returns and this has led to the digital revolution which has further given rise to elegant decentralised solutions,” he explains, saying that these solutions are being harnessed to facilitate digital banking solutions for crypto and other high-risk industries.

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“Currently, we are witnessing a major shift in people’s priorities when it comes to taking charge of their financial freedom.”

“Our primary business is to exchange crypto and fiat currencies. In order to ease these transfers, we offer our own IBAN ranges (LT, GB, FR, ES) to clients. This is especially useful in high-risk industries. We also offer multi-currency wallet accounts via our Singapore EMI. Once our clients pass the seamless KYC/KYB procedure, they get to enjoy limitless transactions. We also have corporate cards connected to the accounts which have up to a €500,000 monthly limit,” Mr La Rosa explains. He sees the company as “working relentlessly to bring positive change in the world,” although he stresses that the company has faced a bit of an uphill battle in asserting its space. Despite this, he says, “we take pride in the fact that we have a great team,” which has aided the firm in tackling the difficulties it encountered. He cites the experience of the firm’s founders – Mr La Rosa himself possesses 13 years’ experience in the banking sector, while Irina La Rosa (Mudreac), the company’s Chief People Officer, and Mr La Rosa’s life partner with a background in psychology has worked in many customer-facing roles in the past. “She now plays a crucial part in vetting new suppliers and business partners,” the CEO says, while the platform itself is handled by two other co-founders, Alexander Pfau and Sascha La Rosa, who possess more of a technical background. “Together we make a fantastic team and, hence, despite facing several setbacks initially, we continued to work hard and rely on each other and successfully launched our first platform in May 2019,” he smiles. Through this main platform, the company made it a mission to “bring value to our clients around the world. We began our journey by simplifying their banking needs by introducing them to top banking providers. As we grew and the demands of our clients reshaped, we realised that it was more optimal for us to divide our services into two parts and better combat the regulatory challenges,” Mr La Rosa continues. Indeed, a short while after the establishment of the company, GlobiancePay was launched – as an offshoot of the main portal – offering financial services for the Globiance Exchange platforms and external clients. “The success of GlobiancePay is largely defined due to its assistance in high-risk industries,” Mr La Rosa says.

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The other big challenge we took on are clients who reside in certain regions that lack fine banking solutions. Crypto is the first choice to enable daily transactions and allows financial freedom through access to an “ecosystem of Decentralized Finance (DeFi)”, Mr La Rosa says, adding that this mechanism allows individuals to benefit from the smart contracts that are running in the automated systems. “A digital revolution of this kind unfolds a sense of surreal financial freedom to a wider audience and even opens up pathways to neglected 1.7 billion people – as per 2017 Global Findex – who don’t even own a bank account.” In stressing the importance of this ecosystem, Mr La Rosa explains that in early 2020 “DeFi protocols were launched on the Ethereum main net. Since then, exponential growth can be observed in the Total Value Locked (TVL) in DeFi smart contracts.” Moreover, “as per a recent article by Coindesk, DeFi is not a $100 billion sector. Yet, we believe that we are at a fairly early stage as there is still a market of about $640 trillion to $1 quadrillion of traditional derivatives and financial marketing waiting to be disrupted.” Dealing in new markets has its difficulties, he continues. “The biggest challenge that our industry faces is regulation. We are delighted to be regulated in Europe and Singapore, and we are seeking a licence in other important markets such as Hong Kong, Japan, Thailand and Korea,” he says. In terms of more recent advances for the firm, Mr La Rosa explains how it has taken over a Singapore EMI “with the goal of providing more services directly to the Asian markets. Our decision to set a headquarter in Singapore was strongly due to the fact that the Singapore Dollar is an extremely valuable currency for Asia’s trade finance. So, Globiance is now working

on its own Singapore Dollar based stable coin in a partnership with XinFin. We are optimistic to propel digitisation forward while smoothing trading with our SGDX stable coin,” he explains, adding that the firm believes that “stable coins bring the level of credibility that is required for mass adoption. Since many users don’t feel absolute certainty towards cryptocurrency, stable coins assure that their money will have the same value later as well.” These products have been well received by the firm’s clients, the majority of whom are businesses, he says. “We have a great relationship with them as some of them have been with us since the beginning. Our exclusive services include taking the time to personally handle each client and offering them custom solutions. We also provide services to retail clients.”

“Our exclusive services include taking the time to personally handle each client and offering them custom solutions.”

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Moreover, and in response to these clients’ needs, the company introduced a Crypto Processing Gateway in April. “It is a high demand product as it essentially replaces credit card payments. As you might be aware, there are high risks involved in offering credit card payments such as card fraud, chargebacks, and rolling reserve in which the card processor holds a part of your money back for a certain period of time.” And, “Globiance has successfully integrated crypto processing as a checkout option. So now, clients can pay with crypto instead of their credit cards. This amazing feature is useful for all businesses and mainly effective for high-risk industries. By design, our product can be utilised at lower fees, no risk, no rolling reserve, and offers definite transactions. It is available in a white-label version for the merchants and can be seamlessly integrated into their platforms,” the CEO explains. “These integrations are deployed in a short span of time and are offered without any set-up costs. Our solutions of crypto payments are highly beneficial for high-risk merchants today. The volatility of crypto assets is nullified as those are automatically converted into fiat currencies. This solution is also available for banking and payment service providers.” Since the company deals in high-risk industries, Mr La Rosa is at pains to emphasise the procedures it goes through to vet its clientele. “We understand the sensitivity that surrounds cryptocurrencies and how regulation is always in question. That’s why our KYC/AML procedure operates at the level of highest security, leaving no grey area when more and more regulations will be tightened.”

Furthermore, to ensure the safety of all stakeholders, “users have to go through KYC/ KYB and AML checks, powered by our partner, ShuftiPro, before they are allowed to trade. We conduct the KYC procedure with ultimate accuracy and similar to the process customers usually go through while remotely opening bank accounts. We also integrated the coin analysis services of Ospree, ensuring the safe origin of coins traded on our platforms. Our own compliance department ensures the safety of all business partners and clients dealing on our platforms.” Shifting to the repercussions of the COVID-19 pandemic on the business, Mr La Rosa says the company has “been fortunate”, with the crisis spurring a rebalancing of work and family commitments. This was also precipitated by the happy news that Mr and Mrs La Rosa have welcomed a beautiful baby boy into their family. Indeed, “the recent adoption of remote working has given us a better chance at balancing our work-life, and another key advantage of having a remote team is that we get to work with brilliant people around the world. Our current team members are residents of Germany, Malta, the UK, Singapore, Turkey, India, Brazil, Australia and Argentina. This framework aligns perfectly with our mission – providing financial freedom to people around the world – whether they are our clients or team members.” A change has also been seen in the type of clients being accrued by the company due to the pandemic. “Due to the COVID-19 crisis, more individuals and institutions have realised the

“Globiance is one of the few platforms that have a global approach and features multiple integrated individual bank accounts and cards for each client”

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GlobianceBANK will go live. As we set up our own bank, our clients will have access to banking solutions with added possibilities of storing their funds across multiple accounts and jurisdictions to ensure safety and accessibility at any given time. Besides enabling us to provide more and costefficient banking solutions demanded by our highrisk clients, Globiance will also allow us to trade securities as we add new features to our platform,” he explains. The bank’s goal, he continues, “is to facilitate access to all underlying banks via a combined interface, listing IBANs of multiple banks together with the client’s crypto and fiat assets for a complete overview of one’s finances with the ability to initiate crypto and fiat payments in all directions.” However, the company does not “plan to replace our banking partners but we believe in working with several banks in numerous countries and integrating more each month. This will allow our clients to have one platform with all banking services available in one place. In the end, onboarding with an additional bank through Globiance and doing daily business without the need to log in to multiple banking platforms to check balances and execute transactions,” Mr La Rosa asserts. However, despite this territorial reach, the company is keeping its feet on the ground. Indeed, the company believes “that it will be in our best interests to slow down for the rest of the year and consolidate our newly achieved heights by working on improving our platforms and services further and by growing our client base in our new markets.” importance of digital banking. Hence, there’s also increased adoption of digital currencies as people have more time to learn about how crypto works and how they can invest in it. We can see a rise in trade of not only Bitcoin but other altcoins as well. To be able to see this financial revolution in our lifetime and be a crucial part of it has given us immense satisfaction. We are excited about what is next to come,” the CEO says. Looking ahead, the company is working on opening its very own bank – GlobianceBANK. “We are very excited to share that in Q3 this year,

This approach will ensure that the progress made continues to be consolidated. “Despite the peaks and valleys, Globiance is one of the few platforms that have a global approach and features multiple integrated individual bank accounts and cards for each client,” he stresses, reiterating, that the focus “is on providing the best possible user experience for buying and selling crypto, combined with the ability to instantly withdraw fiat to the integrated accounts, and personal client support that assists more than emails.” www.globiancepay.com

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The power of investing in

BUSINESS

RELATIONSHIPS

THE CONCEPT STADIUM

With hands-on experience and expertise in leading financial services firm HBM Malta since its inception in 2004, Director Sarah Borg never loses sight of the value of knowing her clients, investing time in building strong relationships and expanding the firm’s growing portfolio of services.

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s part of the international HBM Group established in 1991, with a solid reputation as an independent international financial services provider, HBM Malta is a boutique firm with strong international connections. And its Director, Sarah Borg, who runs the HBM Malta office, alongside its sister brand e-Management (a subsidiary of the Group focused on eGaming solutions), oversees every aspect of her clients’ activities in Malta.

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“Knowing your client (KYC) is crucial – who they are, where they’re from, and their history.” From company formation, domiciliation, international corporate structuring, directorships, and trustee services to accounting and corporate secretarial services, HBM Malta’s suite of services ensures that a company interested in setting up in or operating from Malta is well-catered for. As the company Director, Ms Borg stresses the importance of carrying out a thorough due diligence process, before moving on to establish a strong business relationship with any new client they onboard. “Knowing your client (KYC) is crucial – who they are, where they’re from, and their history. We act as directors on some of our clients’ companies, so we are taking on the responsibility of a person we have just gotten to know,” says Ms Borg. “Understanding thoroughly who we are dealing with, what they are doing with their company, and what the business scope and their intentions are, is of utmost importance. We are living in a time when these elements are too important not to know.” Having previously worked at a ‘Big Four’ firm, Ms Borg leverages her past management experiences during her dealings with new clients, citing her time there as invaluable. “Working at a ‘Big Four’ firm has taught me how to deal with all sorts of people with very different backgrounds and has given me exposure to all kinds of operations and the regulations that apply to them. Learning how to seek advice when I needed it helped me immensely in the years that followed.

“I have a personal relationship with every UBO, and that is the boutique scope of our own business.”

Simultaneously, it helps me to continue providing our clients with a boutique level of service, in that they are dealing with HBM Malta, but they are also dealing with me on a first name basis.” Delving into the process of onboarding a new client, Ms Borg explains that this process broadly comprises the undertaking of robust customer due diligence (CDD) on a risk-sensitive basis, in line with the Group’s internal policies and procedures, coupled with the collation of customer-specific information (via face-toface meetings and follow-up correspondence) relative to the client’s background and proposed business activities in Malta, including their strategic objectives and expectations for their new business – understanding inter alia the scope and nature of their business, intended third-party suppliers, target market/s and jurisdictional links. This information then facilitates more effective ongoing monitoring of the customer relationship and any corresponding transactions going forward. “As directors, we vet and sign each and every contract that passes through our hands, to ensure that, first and foremost, the client’s company has enough financial resources for the undertaking stated in its contract to materialise, and that the transaction makes commercial sense in relation to the discussions we would have engaged in at the set-up stage of the company.” Ms Borg shares that she chooses her clients wisely and diligently. “I’d rather service 10 good clients than 100 that may cause problems at some point down the line. That is the boutique scope of our business, which is manifested in all our business units, and in the various countries/ jurisdictions we operate in. If we see that clients are being secretive, uncooperative or that there are intermediaries involved such that we do not have a direct relationship with the Ultimate Beneficial Owner (UBO) without sufficient justification, we would simply not accept to work with them,” she explains.

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“Being part of an international group undoubtedly gives us an edge over other corporate service providers.” “I personally endeavour to establish a personal relationship with every UBO of our corporate clients, and we strive to know the people we are dealing with, we take the time to meet them personally and we invest in nurturing and developing the customer relationship. This happens not only before onboarding but throughout the duration of our relationship and has a two-fold benefit – it effectively results in a stronger professional relationship with the customer (which is essential from a business development perspective) and also facilitates more effective and robust compliance with our own internal CDD policies and procedures.” Indeed, being a small firm does have its benefits. Ms Borg highlights that, while being small makes dealing with an ever-changing regulatory environment somewhat challenging, on the other hand, having a select number of clients on their books means they are able to get involved in their day-to-day operations, taking a personal interest in their business as if it were their own. “You also learn a lot about people – every client has a different story and a different approach to doing business, which can provide valuable lessons.” Speaking of lessons, 2020 proved to be just that due to the upheaval caused by COVID-19. At the start of the pandemic, Ms Borg spearheaded the re-organisation of the company’s operations to comply with social distancing measures, setting up all team members for remote working and ensuring everyone could work comfortably remotely. “That was the first step. Of particular importance was the availability of our team to service customers to ensure full business continuity in view of our functional management approach.” Although currently working from the office on a shift basis, Ms Borg explains that keeping staff motivated during months of remote working had its challenges, all while keeping up with the day-to-day stress and challenges of work, as well as client demands, including new ways of working particularly in client communication as well as communication within the wider team on an international level.

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“Before the pandemic, the Group used to invest a lot of time and money in travel, attending conferences, meeting people, business feeders, associates and partners; networking and developing the business across its various portfolios. This is also part of our due diligence process. Meeting people face-toface at a conference is a way to get to know them, understand their plans for their company and analyse whether there is a fit between HBM Group or e-Management – depending on the service – and the client,” says Ms Borg. “So travel restrictions have also made it harder from the business development and onboarding perspective of getting to know new clients. We’ve turned to video conferencing until we’re able to travel freely again, but the absence of a personal touch has been felt, especially when onboarding new clients and retaining the personal rapport with existing ones.” While many of the challenges of 2020 have spilled over into 2021, HBM Malta also has a lot to look forward to. Now in its 17th year operating from these shores, the firm has indeed accomplished a lot. “Our client database has grown since we set up in 2004, and the Group has tapped into new areas of professional corporate services, namely Trusts and Trustees, as well as other regulated activities, including eGaming through our subsidiary company, e-Management, showing our appetite for diversification,” says Ms Borg. “The fact that we will also be moving to larger premises later this year shows that we are looking to grow here, both in terms of team and portfolio, as well as our investment in Malta and commitment to the jurisdiction.” HBM Malta’s international connections place it in a unique position to cater for clients with operations in multiple jurisdictions. Ms Borg says that certainly, HBM Group’s global network is a unique selling point of the Malta office. “Being part of an international group undoubtedly gives us an edge over other corporate service providers, as we’re in a position to offer all corporate solutions to our clients,” she concludes. “This cross-border approach helps us ensure we attract the right individuals and companies to the country and offer the right services to those particular B2C propositions. Also, knowing they will be under the same provider in multiple jurisdictions is certainly beneficial for operators.” www.hbmgroup.com

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Future-proofing INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY SOLUTIONS As the demand for industrial space evolved and grew over the years, so has the role of INDIS Malta in providing adequate solutions that address investors’ needs, thereby supporting their business and helping them prosper. INDIS Malta administers the Governmentowned industrial estates and related facilities around the Maltese islands. Historically, its portfolio of properties comprised mainly factories used by the various niches within the traditional manufacturing industry, as well as two villages dedicated to local artisans. Nowadays, however, the company also provides other facilities such as laboratories for the life sciences industry, hangars for the aviation clusters, as well as office type space for the ICT and other knowledge-intensive industries. This shift was mainly driven by the requirements of the new foreign investment being attracted to Malta and to accommodate further growth for those

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that are already operating in the country, thereby generating more wealth and employment opportunities for the entire country. Within this context, one major stumbling block that has slowed down even more growth in recent years was the lack of readily available properties that investors could start operating from within a short period of time, as they would want to hit the ground running without unnecessary delays. INDIS Malta has thus embarked on an ambitious infrastructural investment programme that seeks to address not only the current shortages, but also the envisaged needs for the years to

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come, thereby future-proofing the industrial property solutions it can offer to its clients.

to the clients that visit them; hence, recognising the importance that the environment plays in our lives.

The programme comprises a wide variety of projects, including an expansion of the Malta Life Sciences Park; the rebuilding of the Kordin Business Incubation Centre; the upgrading of the facilities that serve the aviation industry; clustered facilities for SMEs; as well as several projects for the provision of amenities within the industrial estates or for their embellishment.

Investments in green initiatives are not only being made in new projects, but also to improve and enhance the living and working environment in existing facilities and common areas within the industrial estates. Such initiatives include the installation of green walls or green infrastructure, as well as general embellishment and green areas.

These projects have a common underlying principle: sustainability. Indeed, INDIS Malta is striving to address the shortage of properties in a sustainable manner that strikes a balance between optimising the space available while at the same time respecting the environment and the communities that live and work within.

These will be further complemented by other services that will be introduced within certain industrial estates to further ameliorate their users’ experience, including through the development of administration buildings, childcare centres, health and fitness facilities, and parking areas, among others.

The infrastructural investment programme is based on studies that observed the type of industry currently based in Malta and others drawn to invest here, the demand being anticipated for the coming years, and the type of properties required. In so doing, it is addressing the long-term needs of the country and prospective investors.

In order to minimise the impact on the surrounding environment as much as possible, wherever achievable, new facilities are being built on multiple levels, thereby accommodating more tenants without increasing the built-up footprint. This is also being applied to older facilities that for some reason are returned to INDIS Malta, which are then upgraded or rebuilt in a more efficient manner as multi-level facilities.

In addition, it incorporates several green initiatives that will make the facilities more welcoming to the people who spend long hours at their workplace as well as

www.indismalta.com

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St Julian’s

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The Three Cities & Around

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Sliema & Around

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Mdina, Rabat & Around

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Mellieha, Bugibba & Around

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Gozo & Comino

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VA L L E T TA

Valletta N

o matter how long or short your stay in Malta is, a visit to the capital, Valletta, is an absolute must. Bursting at the seams with history, magnificent attractions and things to see and do, you’ll find you’ll always need more time to truly absorb all that the city has to offer.

Holding its own among the great and grand cities of Europe, Valletta offers an incredible breadth of historic attractions, cultural highlights, places to eat, drink and sleep within its centuries-old, fortified walls.

Founded by Jean de la Valette, the Grand Master of the Order of the Knights of St John who gave it its name, in 1566, Valletta boasts architectural gems to admire on every corner of its grid-like streets, protected by impenetrably thick walls which were built to defend it from an impending Ottoman invasion. Stretching across just 2km at its longest, this UNESCO World Heritage site is easy to navigate, and best explored on foot.

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Upon entering the city from the Renzo Piano-designed City Gate, head to the main thoroughfares – the pedestrianised Republic Street and Merchants Street. At de Valette Square, you’ll see the first church to be built in Valletta, Our Lady of Victory, which commemorates the Knights’ Great Siege victory over the Ottomans.

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Just a few metres away stands the majestic Auberge de Castille, which houses the office of the Prime Minister. Although not open to the public, there’s much to admire architecturally from the large piazza. Back on Republic Street, the city’s central vein, you’ll notice several shops, cafés and restaurants for a quick pit stop or light lunch. Further down, and hard to miss, is the world-famous St John’s Co-Cathedral, a treasure trove of Baroque art and architecture. Among the unquantifiable precious works of art housed here is Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’, as

PLACES OF INTEREST 14 St John’s Co-Cathedral

Valletta Waterfront

The Lascaris War Rooms

15 St Paul’s Shipwreck Church

Saluting Battery

16 National Library

Upper Barrakka Gardens

17 St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral

Auberge de Castille

18 Teatru Manoel

Spazju Kreattiv

19 St George’s Square

Our Lady of Victory Church

20 Grand Master’s Palace

MUŻA (National Museum of Art)

21 Is-Suq tal-Belt

Pjazza Teatru Rjal

22 Malta Postal Museum

& Armoury

10 Parliament Building

23 Charles & Ron

11 Hastings Garden

24 Casa Rocca Piccola

12 National Museum of

Archaeology 13 Mdina Glass

25 The Malta Experience 26 Fort St Elmo

well as priceless tapestries and sculptures. Over on the pedestrianised Merchants Street, pay a visit to Is-Suq tal-Belt (city market), a bustling food hall and market. Further down in the expansive St George’s Square is the Grand Master’s Palace, which was the seat of authority from 1571 till spring 2015, when Parliament moved to Piano’s project in City Gate. Keep walking down to Fort St Elmo, a star-shaped fort that played a pivotal role in the Great Siege, and which is both a lesson in history and a perfect vantage point for stunning panoramic views of Valletta’s harbours. Apart from its architecture, Valletta is also dotted with beautiful and peaceful gardens, including Hastings Garden, which affords lovely views of Marsamxett Harbour, and the Upper Barrakka Gardens, which offer the best vista of Grand Harbour, with the Three Cities in the background. At the mark of noon every day, a gun salute goes off from the Saluting Battery, just below the Upper Barrakka. From here, you can also take the lift down to the Valletta Waterfront and enjoy a coffee or cocktail while admiring the majestic Fort St Angelo in Birgu across the water. For an off-the-beaten-track spot, head just outside the city to the Bastion Garden of Rest, a beautiful escape along the ring road of Valletta. Getting through Valletta on foot will undoubtedly work up your appetite, and there’s no shortage of eateries and watering holes in the city. Ranging from quaint, traditional snack bars to casual eateries and Michelin star restaurants, and an extensive variety of cuisines, you’ll find it all in the city. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 97

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Grand Master’s Palace & Armoury AL AN CARVILLE

Fort St Elmo & The National War Museum

STEVEN PSAILA

H E R I TA G E Fort St Elmo & The National War Museum Fort St Elmo played a pivotal role in the Great Siege of 1565, though its history goes back to the late13th century. It is now home to the National War Museum, which displays an extensive collection of items dating to prehistoric times, and military armour of the Order of St John and the Ottoman Turks, among others. It also sheds light on the island’s important role in World Wars I and II. St Elmo Place (2148 1305, www.heritagemalta.org)

Grand Master’s Palace & Armoury This lavish palace was the seat of Malta’s rulers from the 16th century until 2015. Inside, the five State Rooms, which are open to the public, are extravagantly decorated with fine furniture, elaborate paintings – including a visual narrative of the Great Siege – priceless Gobelin tapestries and illusionistic ceiling paintings. The Armoury holds over 4,000 pieces of military hardware. The Palace State Rooms are temporarily closed due to COVID-19 restrictions; visit their site for reopening updates. Merchants Street (2124 9349, www.heritagemalta.org)

Jesuits Church One of the oldest churches in Valletta, the Jesuits Church was built between 1592 and 1600, and reconstructed in the Baroque style in the 17th century following an explosion in a nearby factory in 1634. Look out for one of Malta’s oldest sundials on the back of the church on St Paul Street. Merchants Street (2722 1241)

The Lascaris War Rooms This 150-foot underground complex of tunnels and chambers, located beneath the Upper Barrakka Gardens, once housed the headquarters from where Malta conducted its defence during World War II. Multi-lingual audio guides are available, and the tour lasts around 40 minutes. Lascaris Ditch (2180 0992, www.lascariswarrooms.com)

Malta Postal Museum The Malta Postal Museum displays an extensive and colourful collection of artefacts representing centuries of the island’s postal history, beginning as far back as the 16th century. It includes interactive activities for kids and a fully operational on-site post office. 135, Archbishop Street (2596 1750, www.maltapostalmuseum.com)

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. MUZA (National Museum of Art)

MUŻA (National Museum of Art) Located within the historic Auberge d’Italie, MUŻA is the island’s national community art museum with works ranging from the late medieval to the contemporary. It houses priceless paintings, sculptures, majolica, furniture and silver by local and international artists, including Mattia Preti, Victor Pasmore and Antonio Sciortino. Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street (2122 0006, www.heritagemalta.org)

National Library One of the island’s national treasures, the National Library, founded in 1776, is the home of Malta’s most important historical documents, including all state archives of the Order of the Knights of St John from its foundation in 1113. The library is housed within a late18th century neoclassical building in the heart of the capital. 36, Old Treasury Street (2598 3550)

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National Museum of Archaeology

St John’s Co-Cathedral

With a range of artefacts dating back to Malta’s Neolithic period (5,000 BC) up to the Phoenician period (400 BC), this is the museum for history buffs. It offers a fascinating introduction to the prehistory and history of the Maltese islands, spanning around 7,000 years. Auberge de Provence, Republic Street (2558 4712, www.heritagemalta.org)

Our Lady of Victory Church This small yet fascinating church has the distinction of being the first building to be constructed in Valletta, marking the foundation stone of the city. It was personally funded by Grand Master de la Valette to commemorate the Knights’ victory over the Ottomans during the Great Siege of 1565. Victory Square (www.ourladyofvictory.org.mt)

St John’s Co-Cathedral Widely considered as the jewel of Valletta, the world-famous CoCathedral was commissioned in 1572 as the conventual church of the Order and completed in 1577. Designed by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar, its Mannerist façade belies its lavish interiors, whose embellishment was largely entrusted to celebrated Italian artist Mattia Preti. Among the CoCathedral’s countless treasures is Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’, completed in 1608 and displayed in the Oratory. St John Street (2122 0536, www.stjohnscocathedral.com)

Auberge de Castille

St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral The only Anglican cathedral in Malta, St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral was commissioned by Queen Adelaide, the widow of King William IV, who wanted a place of Anglican worship on the island during her stay in the 19th century. The 60-metre spire is a Valletta landmark, visible from many vantage points around the harbour. Independence Square (2122 5714, www.anglicanmalta.org)

St Paul’s Shipwreck Church The origins of this church have been traced back to the 1570s, and although completed by 1582, its façade was rebuilt in 1885 according to the design of architect Nicola Zammit. Among its numerous treasures are the altarpiece by Matteo Perez d’Aleccio and the relic of the wrist bone of St Paul, displayed in an elaborate gold niche. 74, St Paul Street (2122 3348)

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AT T R A C T I O N S Auberge de Castille As the official seat of the Prime Minister, Auberge de Castille is not open to the public, but its ornate exterior makes it a must-see on your tour of the capital. Built by the Order of St John in the 16th century, it sits at the highest point of Valletta and is an architectural masterpiece. Castille Place. Not open to visitors.

Casa Rocca Piccola This stately home, owned by the 9th Marquis de Piro, was built in the late-16th century for Don Pietro La Rocca, and boasts over 50 rooms, many of which are open for viewing, including a private chapel, a gorgeous four-poster bed and a sedan chair that once belonged to a French knight. 74, Republic Street (2122 1499, www.casaroccapiccola.com)

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Saluting Battery

WIRT ARTNA

VA L L E T TA

Saluting Battery Valletta’s 16th century Saluting Battery may be the oldest one still in operation anywhere in the world. For almost 500 years, its guns protected the harbour from naval assault. Following a half-century out of use, today, the battery’s guns sound off daily to mark midday.

Mediterranean Conference Centre

Battery Street (www.salutingbattery.com)

Hastings Garden

The Malta Experience

Located on the bastions on the west side of Valletta, Hastings Garden offers magnificent views of Floriana, Msida, Sliema, Manoel Island and Marsamxett Harbour. The sprawling garden is named after Lord Hastings, a former British governor of Malta who died at sea in 1827, and lies buried there.

Learn about the Maltese islands’ turbulent 7,000-year history through this engaging, 45-minute audiovisual documentary. Available in 18 languages, it is educational, informative, and entertaining – and a great experience for all the family.

Windmill Street

Is-Suq Tal-Belt A visit to Is-Suq Tal-Belt, housed within the original Valletta market that was completed in 1861, is a culinary and cultural experience. Inspired by the iconic food markets of Europe, you’ll find a variety of eateries serving a range of cuisines, as well as a small food market selling bread, delicatessen and more. Merchants Street (2210 3500, issuqtalbelt.com)

Malta 5D This multi-lingual audio-visual show takes you on a journey through Malta’s history with special 3D cinematic effects, moving seats, water spray, air blasts and leg ticklers, for an immersive experience suitable for all ages. 7, Old Bakery Street (2735 5001)

St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street (2552 4000, www.themaltaexperience.com)

Mediterranean Conference Centre This historic 16th century venue houses multiple attractions within its ancient walls, including the ‘Sacra Infermeria’, Malta’s first hospital with a 155 metre-long ward, considered one of the longest in Europe during its time. Be sure to also visit the magnificent theatre and Augmented Reality Museum for a truly immersive experience. Old Hospital Street (2124 3840, www.mcc.com.mt)

St George’s Square Located right in front of the marvellous Grand Master’s Palace, St George’s Square is Valletta’s largest and most prominent square. The Changing of the Guard ceremony – currently suspended due to COVID restrictions – is normally held here every last Friday of the month, starting at 10.30am, where the Armed Forces of Malta Band conducts a marching display following the exchange of duties. Republic Street

Upper Barrakka Gardens The peaceful Upper Barrakka Gardens provide one of the most beautiful panoramic views in Malta, with a sweeping vista of the only natural harbour in the Mediterranean, and the Three Cities as its backdrop. It is also the site of several art, music and wine festivals throughout the year. St Ursula Street

Parliament Building Designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano between 2011 and 2015 as part of the City Gate Project, the striking limestone Parliament Building is the meeting place of the Parliament of Malta. While it’s largely closed off, there is much to observe from the street.

Valletta Waterfront

Republic Street

(www.vallettawaterfront.com)

Away from the main city streets, the vibrant Valletta Waterfront features a series of restored 18th century vaults that house cafés, bars, restaurants and shops, with close views of the awe-inspiring Grand Harbour.

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VA L L E T TA Chocolate District

BRIAN GRECH

Edwards Lowell Patek Philippe & Cartier Boutique Charles & Ron

LEISURE Blitz Blitz, one of the island’s foremost private contemporary art spaces, operates within a 400-year-old Valletta townhouse, and supports experimental and radical arts practice in all forms.

Charles & Ron As one of Malta’s top fashion designer brands, Charles & Ron’s flagship store can be found in the capital’s main street, stocking many of its trademark colourful pieces.

68, St Lucia Street (2122 4992, www.blitzvalletta.com)

58D, Republic Street (2124 0184, www.charlesandron.com). Also Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, De Paule Avenue, Attard

Blue Shop

Chocolate District

This Italian boutique is home to a wonderful array of hand-made clothing produced from natural fabrics, mainly cotton and linen. All pieces are designed and made by skilled artisans who work on ancient looms.

Chocolate District is sensory heaven for cocoa lovers, stocking a variety of luxury chocolate brands as well as an artisanal Maltese chocolate collection. An in-shop cafeteria also serves chocolate melted drinks on tap.

37, Merchants Street (2703 5451, www.blueshopvalletta.com)

13, Melita Street (2788 8668, www.chocolatedistrict.com)

C Camilleri & Sons Ltd

Classic Jewellers

Established in 1843, this age-old family-run institution offers a varied selection of home-made ice-cream, pick-and-mix sweets, daily baked cakes, chocolate truffles and local sweets.

Classic Jewellers, founded in 1978, is an established jewellery and watch shop in Malta which stocks renowned international brands, including Hebe, Pandora, Ice-Watch and Swatch, alongside locally made pieces.

49-51, Merchants Street (2124 1642, www.ccamilleriandsonsltd.com.mt)

20, Merchants Street. Also across Malta

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Diamonds International At this luxury boutique, you’ll find a range of exquisite timepieces and jewellery from brands such as Omega, Zenith, Baume & Mercier, Damiani and Mikimoto, among others. Also available are a bridal collection, a bespoke jewellery service, and a repair and after-sales service for timepieces. 293, Republic Street (2203 5105). Also Portomaso, St Julian’s

Edwards Lowell Patek Philippe & Cartier Boutique Designed by Patek Philippe and Cartier architects, this luxury store is dedicated to stunning timepieces by the eponymous brands. The shop is the latest addition to the portfolio of Edwards Lowell Co Ltd, an established family-run watch and jewellery business, which represents other top brands including Rolex, Chopard, Breitling, Hublot and Parmigiani across their stores, including one in 6/7, Zachary Street, Valletta. 271 Republic Street (2779 4770, www.elcol.com)

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LUIZ RODRIGUEZ

VA L L E T TA

Teatru Manoel

Joseph Busuttil

Embassy Cinemas The recently refurbished Embassy Cinemas complex, the only one of its kind in the capital, shows the latest films and big screen entertainment across its six comfy and high-spec cinema theatres, complete with stadium seating and offering full accessibility. St Lucia Street (2122 2225, www.embassycinemas.com)

Joseph Busuttil This family-run souvenir shop, which has been in business for over 100 years, sells a selection of high-quality authentic Maltese lace, as well as filigree, Gozitan glass, antiques, unique jewellery pieces and silver items. 222, Merchants Street (2124 3241)

Mdina Glass For a glassware keepsake, a visit here is a must. As one of the island’s most renowned ‘Made in Malta’ brands, Mdina Glass offers a vast selection of glassware, from vases to serving bowls, in both traditional as well as contemporary designs, with a range of prices to suit most budgets. 14, Merchants Street (2122 6488, www. mdinaglass.com.mt). Also across Malta

Mdina Glass

Pjazza Teatru Rjal Formerly the Royal Opera House, which was destroyed in World War II, Pjazza Teatru Rjal is housed within the site’s ruins and was refurbished as part of Renzo Piano’s City Gate project. This open-air performance space provides a diverse cultural programme, which reaches its peak during the summer months. Republic Street (2247 8100)

Spazju Kreattiv Malta’s multi-purpose centre for creativity brings together the creative arts and culture under one magnificent roof – St James Cavalier. Spazju Kreattiv’s packed arts calendar includes contemporary exhibitions, live performances in its modern theatre, as well as screenings in its cinema of independent and foreignlanguage films, live broadcasts of London’s National Theatre and New York’s Metropolitan Opera productions, and more. St James Cavalier, Castille Place (2122 3200, www.kreattivita.org)

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Studio 104 Valletta Fine Art Space This contemporary art space and working art studio exhibits a range of modern art, including audio-visual, installation and wall-mounted art. Giftware is also available for purchase. 104, St Lucia Street (2728 0028)

Teatru Manoel As one of the oldest-working theatres in Europe, and a stunning one at that, Teatru Manoel is a mustvisit. Be sure to catch whatever performance is on during your visit, be it an opera, musical, ballet, drama, comedy, or the annual Valletta International Baroque Festival. Old Theatre Street (2124 6389, www.teatrumanoel.com.mt)

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VA L L E T TA

Theobroma

Valletta Contemporary

Theobroma

Victor Pasmore Gallery

With a mission to create delicious desserts using healthy ingredients, expect an array of sweets at Theobroma that are gluten-free, vegan and made with natural sugars and superfoods, such as maca, lucuma, goji berries and cacao.

Housed within the Central Bank of Malta’s Polverista Gallery is this permanent exhibition of the works of British abstract art pioneer Victor Pasmore. The exhibition displays paintings and constructions which he created during his time in Malta, alongside earlier works.

123, Old Theatre Street (2143 6936, www.theobromacacaocollective.com)

Valletta Contemporary Located away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre, Valletta Contemporary is a hub for the exhibition of contemporary art as well as educational outreach through its knowledge-sharing initiatives. East Street (www.vallettacontemporary.com)

St James Countergard, Nelson Avenue (2550 3360)

The Wembley Store A landmark in Republic Street, this green-fronted shop has been a Valletta establishment since 1924. From freshly baked pies and speciality goods to ricotta kannoli and boxes of gourmet chocolates, you’ll find a wide selection of delicacies here, as well as an array of local and foreign wines.

Victor Pasmore Gallery

305, Republic Street (2122 5147, www.thewembleystore.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 105

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VA L L E T TA

E AT & D R I N K

Caffe Cordina

Sunday in Scotland

CAFÉS

Caffe Cordina Located right in the heart of Pjazza Regina, this Valletta favourite is impossible to miss. In operation since 1837, it has evolved to incorporate a restaurant, tea rooms, pasticceria, coffee bar and gelateria.

Museum Café This retro, family-run café traces its roots all the way back to 1921, and inside is a treasure trove of knick-knacks to prove it. Expect a variety of traditional snacks, abundant portions and reasonable prices. 24, Melita Street (2124 2833)

244, Republic Street (2065 0400, www.caffecordina.com.mt)

Kantina Café & Wine Bar This quaint coffee shop, located beneath the trees next to St John’s Co-Cathedral, offers indoor seating within a kantina (cellar), and plenty of outdoor seating in the beautiful square. 103B, C, St John’s Square (2723 0096)

Sunday in Scotland This artisanal chocolate shop and boutique café offers a delectable and luxurious collection of delicate chocolates, cakes and biscuits, all of which are made locally. Enjoy a treat in store, or have it beautifully packaged to take with you – a perfect portable gift. 172, St Lucia Street (9999 6656, sundayinscotland.com)

Lot Sixty One

MALTESE

The globally renowned café franchise opened its doors in Valletta to wide acclaim. Lot Sixty One’s high-quality green beans are hand-roasted on location, and the expert baristas deliver consistently great cups of coffee in a welcoming atmosphere.

King’s Own Band Club Bar & Restaurant

30, Old Theatre Street (7984 1561, www.lotsixtyonecoffeemalta.com). Also Spinola Park, St Julian’s 106 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Run by accomplished chef, Roberta Preca, this authentic and casual dining spot serves traditional local and Mediterranean cuisines within the charming King’s Own band club. On summer evenings, book an outdoor table for an al fresco dining experience. 274, Republic Street (2123 0281)

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VA L L E T TA

E AT & D R I N K

DANIEL CARDONA

59 Republic

Nenu the Artisan Baker

La Pira Maltese Kitchen This small, family-run restaurant, well-known for its local rabbit dish, makes dining on a budget a real pleasure. Secure a table outdoors on bustling Merchants Street and watch the world go by while tucking into some delicious, traditional fare. 35, Merchants Street (2722 0232)

Nenu the Artisan Baker Diners are treated to expertly baked traditional fare at Nenu, housed within a restored former bakery. Watch the talented chefs use the original, over-100-year-old woodfired stone oven to prepare pizza-style ftajjar – featuring a dough base with a variety of locally-sourced toppings. 143, St Dominic Street (2258 1535, www.nenuthebaker.com) MEDITERRANEAN

59 Republic At 59 Republic, expect fine dining in an upscale setting. From the sumptuous décor to the top-quality, colourful and carefully-crafted food, it delivers an overall exciting dining experience. The menu changes regularly and features classic cuisine with a contemporary touch. St George’s Square (7926 4613, www.fiftyninerepublic.com)

Aaron’s Kitchen A family-run restaurant headed by chef patron Aaron Degabriele, Aaron’s Kitchen specialises in a fusion of Maltese and Italian cuisines. Alongside daily specials, an

extensive international wine list and home-made desserts, the menu features a selection of fresh pasta, grill and fresh fish dishes. 107, Archbishop Street (2123 0636, www.aaronskitchenvalletta.com)

Beati Paoli This charming and welcoming dining spot offers a breadth of carefully crafted Mediterranean dishes, including delicious fresh fish and seafood pasta dishes. Keep an eye out for the changing specials, and there’s also a great selection of local and European wines on offer. 240, St Paul Street (9930 9319)

Capo Crudo Between its enviable location beneath the city bastions and its mouth-watering menu, Capo Crudo promises an exceptional dining experience. The eatery’s crudo dishes are a highlight, as are its fresh fish, seafood and top-grade beef dishes, which are second to none. Lanca Street (2155 5222, www.capocrudo.com)

Giannini Led by chef patron Aaron De Giorgio, Giannini is a safe bet for a great meal with an outstanding view. It specialises in flavoursome Mediterranean cuisine, including fresh fish and meat, served in an elegant setting. 23, Windmill Street, St Michael’s Bastions (2123 7121, www.gianninimalta.com)

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E AT & D R I N K

ION – The Harbour

L’Artiglio Ristorante

Guzé Bistro

L’Artiglio Ristorante

With its traditional façade and cosy interiors, Guzé is all about authenticity. The team of talented chefs at this welcoming restaurant create original and inventive menus based solely on local and seasonal produce, and a genuine passion for food.

Open all day long, L’Artiglio serves a fine menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Patrons can watch the chefs at work through its open kitchen and enjoy a scrumptious meal that combines classic and contemporary cuisines in a distinct, Mediterranean setting.

22, Old Bakery Street (2123 9686, www.guzebistro.com)

64, Melita Street (2247 6601, www.lartiglio.com.mt)

The Harbour Club True to its name, this sophisticated eatery is a few seconds’ walk from the promenade overlooking the stunning Grand Harbour. It offers a delectable Mediterranean menu laced with French influence, which changes according to the season. 4, 5, Barriera Wharf (2122 2332, www.theharbourclubmalta.com)

ION – The Harbour Situated on the rooftop of the unparalleled Iniala Harbour House hotel, Michelin star restaurant, ION – The Harbour, is considered among Malta’s finest eateries. The dining experience is carefully curated each step of the way to delight the senses, from the ambience, to the service, to the incredible food and its stunning presentation. Iniala Harbour House, 11, St Barbara Bastion (9911 0166, www.iontheharbour.com) 110 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Mezzodi An Italian restaurant with a cosy, bistro feel, Mezzodi offers classic Mediterranean cooking in a laid-back ambience. Chef Ryan Vella leads the kitchen brigade and delivers a well-rounded culinary experience with every flavourful dish, be it pasta, meat, or dessert. 80, South Street (2124 2938, www.mezzodirestaurant.com)

MUŻA Restaurant With the Malta National Community Art Museum (MUŻA) as its home, every dish served at MUŻA Restaurant is inspired by a painting exhibited nearby. The menu changes seasonally, and the ambience is charming, with outdoor seating also available in the courtyard of stunning Auberge d’Italie. Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street (7979 0900, www.muzarestaurant.com.mt)

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VA L L E T TA

BRIAN GRECH

E AT & D R I N K

Noni

Palazzo Preca

Pastaus

Located in a stylish former jazz bar, this superb oneMichelin star restaurant, headed by chef and founder Jonathan Brincat, reinterprets traditional Maltese dishes with a creative and imaginative approach. Whether fried rabbit or te fit-tazza (tea in a tumbler), the results are infallibly exquisite.

This cosy, casual restaurant specialises exclusively in fresh pasta dishes, and diners are invited to head to the pasta bar to create their dish. From traditional Italian sauces, such as Amatriciana, cacio e pepe and carbonara, to speciality options including wild boar, you’re in for a finger-licking meal.

211, Republic Street (2122 1441, www.noni.com.mt)

123, Old Theatre Street (2702 3141)

Old Bakery’s Pizza e Pasta

Rubino

Tucked on a corner between Old Bakery and South Streets, this eatery serves a dizzying selection of red- and white-based, and closed pizzas, as well as fresh pasta and burger dishes. Keep an eye out for the specials board too, and if you have room, the home-made tiramisu is recommended.

A former confectionery established in 1906, this Valletta stalwart is named after its first owner, the Sicilian Vincenzo Rubino. Run by members of the Diacono culinary dynasty, the menu changes daily based on what’s in season, but always includes a delicious selection of antipasti, fresh fish and local meats.

28A, South Street (2123 3983)

53, Old Bakery Street (2122 4656, www.rubinomalta.com)

Palazzo Preca Run by talented sisters Ramona and Roberta Preca, this elegant eatery is set within a beautifully refurbished 16th century palazzo. Fresh fish and seafood are the house specialities, but patrons can choose from a variety of blackboard specials and an extensive menu. 54, Strait Street (2122 6777, www.palazzoprecavalletta.com)

Sotto Pizzeria This Italian pizzeria is considered to be one of the best on the island. The pizzas, prepared Roman-style, are simple and wholesome, with a focus on top-quality ingredients and how well they work together on the light, crispy base. Don’t skip the tasty tiramisu for dessert – it’s a must-try. 32, South Street (2122 0077, www.zeroseimalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 111

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VA L L E T TA

Taproom

JEAN MARC ZERAFA

E AT & D R I N K

Under Grain

Taproom

Under Grain

This cool and contemporary restaurant is a blend of vintage-bar-meets-rustic-brasserie with industrial detailing. Grab lunch, a late afternoon drink or an expertlyprepared cocktail with a delicious dinner, all within a stylish setting.

One of only five local restaurants to be awarded a Michelin star in 2021, Under Grain boasts an informally luxurious ambience and an expertly curated menu, delivering, as the Michelin experts put it, “unfussy modern Mediterranean dishes bursting with gloriously harmonious flavours”.

53A, Old Theatre Street (2749 1316, www.taproomvalletta.com)

167 Merchants Street (2235 4167, www.grain.mt)

Trabuxu Bistro

Zero Sei

Husband-and-wife team Kris and Krista run this Mediterranean bistro with impeccable service and attention to detail. The food is consistently exquisite, and the warm décor, dim lighting and objets d’art make Trabuxu Bistro an incredibly welcoming eatery. The restaurant has a strict over-12 age policy.

For exquisite Italian fare reminiscent of the Roman way of cooking, a visit to Zero Sei is a must. At this cosy trattoria, run by an affable couple from the Italian capital, pasta is the star. We recommend the classic carbonara with egg, pork cheek and pecorino, or the cacio e pepe with pecorino and black pepper.

8, 9, South Street (2122 0357, www.trabuxu.com.mt)

75, Old Theatre Street (2122 2010, www.zeroseimalta.com)

Trattoria Da Pippo

ORIENTAL

This consistently delicious restaurant adopts a laid-back approach to dining, an off-the-cuff menu, and a long waiting list. With hearty dishes that never fail to impress, patrons are served whatever is fresh on the day. Booking in advance is recommended to avoid disappointment. 136, Melita Street (7947 4474)

Aki A relative newcomer to the capital, Aki has quickly established itself for its contemporary take on authentic Japanese cuisine, prepared with acute attention to detail. Enjoy a drink at the stylish lounge bar and tuck into some fantastic Japanese fare. Strait Street corner with St Lucia Street (2737 9053, www.akimalta.com)

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VA L L E T TA

Alchemy

AL AN CARVILLE

E AT & D R I N K

Café Society

N Japanese Bistrot

Bridge Bar

This tiny eatery, designed in an authentically Japanese style, offers a relaxing space and a delectable menu consisting of delicious sharing dishes and salads, deepfried items and main courses. And for sake lovers, there’s an entire page of the menu devoted to the drink!

This tiny, much-loved bar, located on one of Valletta’s bridges, lights up the lower part of St Ursula Street on a regular basis. Throughout summer, live jazz is performed every Friday evening to the delight of patrons who sit on the steps, with a drink in hand, soaking it all in.

92, Strait Street (2730 0781)

258, St Ursula Street (7947 4227)

BARS

Café Society

67 Kapitali

The intimate Café Society welcomes a diverse and vibrant crowd. The décor harks back to an age gone by with its vaulted ceilings and vintage movies projected onto the wall, while the bar offers a well-stocked selection of spirits and beer, as well as a menu of creative cocktails.

Serving a wide selection of craft beers from around the world since 2015, this laid-back spot is a cross between an artisanal café and a bar. Expect beer on draught from Malta, Australia, Belgium, Denmark and Italy, and up to 60 bottled options to boot. 67, Old Bakery Street (2738 0010, www.67kapitali.com)

Alchemy If you’re after a unique mixology experience, head to Alchemy to sample their inventive, high-end cocktails in luxurious settings. Besides an exclusive bar area, there is also a private room available for more intimate gatherings. 93, 94, Strait Street (9968 9949, www.alchemyvalletta.com)

13, St John Street (2713 7491)

Gugar – Hangout & Bar Conceived by a group of friends looking to create a warm and welcoming space, Gugar has become the hangout of many who head here for a chat and a good drink. The atmosphere is casual and the food includes lots of vegetarian and vegan options. 89A, Republic Street (2703 2837)

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E AT & D R I N K

BRIAN GRECH

JACOB SAMMUT PHOTOGRAPHY

Kingsway

Kennedy Bar & Bistro

Legligin Wine Bar

This vintage-themed bar in Strait Street, lovingly restored after half a century of neglect, offers an extensive selection of premium spirits, as well as platters, tapas, burgers, live entertainment and a frequent happy hour (check out their Facebook page for updates).

With a name that roughly translates to ‘guzzlers’, it comes as no surprise that this intimate and cosy bar offers a fantastic wine list, which the knowledgeable staff members can tell you all about. We recommend the tasting menu to accompany a good bottle.

Strait Street (9935 4403)

119, St Lucia Street (7993 2985)

Kingsway

The Ordnance Pub & Restaurant

This hip cocktail bar and café tends to attract the ‘in’ crowd, including business people and professionals who work in the city. Serving a range of snacks, bar bites and sweets, it’s a great spot for people watching, and for a delicious cocktail.

Established in 1979, this traditional British-style pub has been a popular hangout in Valletta for decades. Now boasting a modern style and interiors, visitors can expect an all-round offering of great food, a vast selection of drinks and a buzzing atmosphere.

57, Republic Street (2703 7720, www.kingswayvalletta.com)

Ordnance Street (2123 0547)

La Bottega

The Pub

The lively La Bottega offers the best of Mediterranean living, including the traditional Italian aperitivo, a pre-dinner drink to sip on while socialising and eating some nibbles as dinner approaches, accompanied by live music. The bar offers a wide selection of beers, wines, spirits, and cocktails.

This old-school pub is rife with British navy memorabilia and photos of Oliver Reed when he was on the island filming ‘Gladiator’ – and was sadly the last place where he ever had a drink. A wide selection of UK craft beers and whiskies is also available, and stand-up comedy events are also hosted on occasion.

200, Merchants Street (2703 9547)

136, Archbishop Street (7905 2522)

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VA L L E T TA

E AT & D R I N K KULURI

StrEat Whisky & Bistro

Trabuxu Wine Bar

The Rootz Run by an Italian couple, this traditional Italian osteria, wine and cocktail bar, which frequently hosts evenings of live music, offers a range of wines, cocktails and digestifs (including grappa), as well as a tasty selection of north Italian specialities, including certified hams, salamis and cheeses. 11, Strait Street (2713 5923)

San Paolo Naufrago A stalwart of St Lucia Street, this cosy little bar is popular with locals and a great place to sip a glass of wine, beer or even a Maltese spritz in a lively atmosphere. It’s also well-known for its delicious pizzas which we recommend if you’re peckish – a cut above the average bar bites.

Trabuxu Wine Bar Housed within a charming, 400-year-old vaulted cellar, Trabuxu makes for an intimate retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. Here you’ll find an excellent selection of local and international wines on offer, accompanied by delicious savoury and sweet delicacies. 2, Strait Street (2122 3036, www.trabuxu.com.mt)

Yard 32 Known informally as ‘the gin and tapas bar’, this is the only bar in Malta that serves over 200 types of gin and over 40 kinds of tonic water. The extensive variety of tapas on display will likely also tickle your fancy as you sip on a tailor-made G&T in a very laid-back atmosphere. 32, Strait Street (9993 6734, www.yard32.com)

11, St Lucia Street (2701 3353)

StrEat Whisky & Bistro Whisky and gin lovers are absolutely spoilt for choice at this much-loved bar which attracts scores of patrons to its doors. Adjacent to the whisky bar is a bistro with a wonderful selection of dishes served from brunch to dinner time, including mouth-watering gourmet burgers. Strait Street (7778 7328) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 115

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VA L L E T TA

SLEEP

Casa Ellul

19 Rooms

The Coleridge

19 Rooms

Casa Ellul

This centrally-located 18th century palazzo has been exquisitely restored to offer a range of deluxe and superior rooms, as well as penthouse and duplex suites. Free continental breakfast is served daily, and sustainability is at the core of all the boutique hotel’s activity, including its sourcing of local produce.

Set within a beautiful townhouse constructed around 1830, Casa Ellul has been lovingly restored and transformed by brothers Matthew and Andrew Ellul. Its nine luxurious suites each feature exquisite décor and antique pieces with an unmistakably Maltese feel. Breakfast is served in the pretty courtyard on the ground floor.

87, St Christopher Street (2010 6029, www.19rooms.com.mt)

81, Old Theatre Street (2122 4821, www.casaellul.com)

66 St Paul’s Set in a restored and modernised 17th century palazzo, 66 St Paul’s is bursting with charm. Facilities include a courtyard café, plunge pool and rooftop lounge with stunning views of Valletta and the Three Cities, while the larger suites have traditional Maltese balconies or private sun terraces.

Castille Hotel

66, St Paul Street (2711 2185, www.66saintpaulsmalta.com)

Castille Square (2124 3677, www.hotelcastillemalta.com)

The Barrister Hotel

The Coleridge

With its 18 stylishly-designed rooms, this quaint hotel – formerly a lawyer’s office – offers guests an intimate lodging experience in a luxury setting. All rooms have views to the outside, while the top-floor rooms boast large terraces, two of which include private hot tubs.

Named after the renowned English poet, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who lived in Old Bakery Street during his time in Malta, this hotel offers elegantly designed suites fully equipped with five-star amenities. Continental breakfast is served in the hotel’s cellar, prepared with locally sourced, organic ingredients.

57, St Christopher Street (2033 0033)

Housed within a 16th century grand residence, Castille Hotel is a great-value option that places you within walking distance of everything the capital has to offer. It also houses a charming eatery, Le Cinq, and a cosy coffee shop.

89-92, Old Bakery Street (2010 5511, thecoleridgehotel.com) 116 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

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DARREN AGIUS

SLEEP

De Vilhena

Grand Hotel Excelsior

The Cumberland

The Embassy Valletta Hotel

Housed within a 16th century palazzo, The Cumberland has been restored into an upmarket 21st century accommodation experience while retaining the property’s ample historic charm. With 23 stylish rooms, a peaceful courtyard and a rooftop terrace with views of Grand Harbour, guests are in for a treat.

Located on the site of a former hotel dating back to the 1800s, The Embassy Valletta Hotel is one of the newest to open its doors in the capital. With 81 beautifully designed rooms – ranging from deluxe to suite options – breakfast served on its rooftop terrace, and a rooftop heated infinity pool, a stay here is a real treat.

111, St John Street (2016 5200)

173 Strait Street (2016 9000, www.embassyvallettahotel.com)

De Vilhena

Grand Hotel Excelsior

With its 22 modern rooms, each boasting a classical touch of elegance reminiscent of Valletta’s past grandeur, De Vilhena hotel guarantees a memorable experience for guests, including generous sweet and savoury breakfast options, freshly prepared each morning.

Located just outside the capital, the Grand Hotel Excelsior is a top, five-star option in this area. With 429 rooms and suites spread over 10 floors, it offers a variety of accommodation options, as well as stunning sea views, a renowned spa and beauty centre, a private beach and its own 30-berth marina.

55, Old Theatre Street (2124 2020)

Great Siege Road, Floriana (2125 0520, www.excelsior.com.mt)

Domus Zamittello

Iniala Harbour House

Formerly a palazzo dating back to 1633, this magnificent building has been restored and transformed into a stunning boutique hotel, featuring a majestic entrance leading to an open courtyard, a baroque staircase and exceptional sala nobile and sala del conte reception rooms, along with 21 spacious, luxury bedrooms and suites.

Located on St Barbara Bastion with spectacular views of Grand Harbour, Iniala Harbour House, which is spread over four historical buildings, has ushered in a new level of luxury accommodation locally. With 23 sumptuously designed rooms, world-class cuisine and top facilities, it promises guests an unparalleled stay and experience.

7, Republic Street (2122 7700, www.domuszamittello.com) 118 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

11, St Barbara Bastion (2166 1111, www.inialamalta.com)

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La Falconeria

JAMES MCDONALD

BRIAN GRECH

The Phoenicia Malta

Palais Le Brun

La Falconeria

Palazzo Paolina Boutique Hotel

This 43-room hotel is located within a truly unique building – the front is hundreds of years old and reminiscent of Renaissance nobility, while the back part was destroyed in World War II and rebuilt in a modern style. A picturesque courtyard and in-house restaurant, L’Artiglio, are among the many bonuses here.

Just minutes away from many sites, including the Upper Barakka Gardens, Palazzo Paolina is central and offers affordable boutique lodging in the city. With its oldmeets-new aesthetic and standard hotel amenities, it’s a worthy contender for a comfortable and complete stay in the heart of Valletta.

62, Melita Street (2247 6600, www.lafalconeria.com)

101, St Paul Street (2124 2442)

Palais Le Brun

Palazzo Rosaria Boutique Hotel

This boutique hotel, housed within a restored 16thcentury Baroque palace, comprises 28 luxury rooms, complete with marble bathrooms, Persian carpets, and espresso machines, as well as a rooftop terrace with pool decks and a fitness centre, among other amenities.

Renovated with great attention to detail, Palazzo Rosaria offers guests a range of double and triple rooms, as well as a suite with its own terrace and hot tub, in a central location. All rooms are kitted out with standard amenities, including free Wi-Fi and tea/coffee-making facilities.

101, Old Bakery Street (2226 0300, www.palaislebrun.com)

152, Melita Street (2166 9028, www.palazzorosaria.com)

Palazzo Consiglia

The Phoenicia Malta

At this boutique hotel located within a traditional townhouse, guests can choose from 13 rooms, each with their own distinct character, and enjoy its various amenities, including a spa area with a Jacuzzi and steam room, and a roof terrace with spectacular views of Valletta and Grand Harbour.

Established over 70 years ago, this elegant and historic hotel is Malta’s only member of global hospitality consortium Leading Hotels of the World. Its traditional Art Deco features have been highlighted further following a recent redesign, while the new infinity pool overlooking Marsamxett Harbour is simply breath-taking.

102, St Ursula Street (2124 4222, www.palazzoconsiglia.com)

The Mall, Floriana (2122 5241, www.phoeniciamalta.com)

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Rosselli AX Privilege

TONIO LOMBARDI

SU29

Rosselli AX Privilege Located within the historic Casa Rosselli Massa in Valletta, this five-star boutique hotel has six designer rooms, each finished to standards that leave guests wanting for nothing. Among its many top-quality facilities are superb dining experiences, one of which, Under Grain, enjoys a coveted Michelin star. 167, Merchants Street (2124 5245, www.rossellimalta.com)

The Saint John Designed around the theme of urban living, The Saint John on Merchants Street expertly combines luxury, technology and style. Housed within a property that’s been around since at least 1870, the rooms are spacious and cosy, while the hotel’s in-house Cheeky Monkey gastropub offers delicious fare. 176, Merchants Street (2124 3243, www.thesaintjohnmalta.com)

The Vincent

Ursulino Valletta Formerly a traditional townhouse, Ursolino combines five-star hotel standards with the personalised service of a family-run boutique B&B, including scrumptious breakfast and an evening aperitivo. Expect beautifully decorated rooms and suites, and a fantastic roof terrace with unobstructed views of Valletta’s skyline. 82A, St Ursula Street (2122 8024, www.ursulinovalletta.com)

The Vincent

Combining classic charm with modern luxury, the eight rooms and suites at SU29 each possess a unique identity, such as the theatre room overlooking the courtyard and the lavish Presidential suite overlooking St Ursula Steps.

With its nine cosy suites, each assigned an evocative name, including Napoleone, Dolce Vita and Bordello, The Vincent is a welcoming lodging option in the city. Each suite is equipped with several amenities and features a Maltese-style balcony, an en suite shower room and an espresso machine.

29, St Ursula Steps (2124 2929, www.su29hotel.com)

84, Hospital Street (9931 5435, www.thevincenthotelmalta.com)

SU29

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St Julian’s With its wide-ranging choice of eateries, pubs and entertainment venues, you’ll be spoilt for choice if you’re looking for a good time in the bright and animated town of St Julian’s.

hile it may be hard to believe today, the seaside town of St Julian’s was once a peaceful enclave – home to families of farmers working in nearby fields and fishermen by the water’s edge. In days gone by, colourful, traditional boats peppered the bay, as the community toiled to subsist on the trades which formed the fabric of the Mediterranean for centuries.

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Nowadays however, it is a veritable tourist destination par excellence, and is somewhat unrecognisable from the St Julian’s of old. Filled with restaurants, bars, clubs and other places of leisure, it has since become the island’s entertainment mecca, making it a magnet for pleasure seekers and party animals looking for a fun night out.

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The town is comprised of four main areas – namely St Andrew’s, Ta’ Giorni, Tal-Ghoqod, and Paceville – with the latter known for being the most raucous. As you drive into St Julian’s through Balluta, a neighbourhood named after the oak trees which shelter the piazza, you’ll notice the eclectic mix of old and new architecture which surrounds the picturesque bay. The seafront views here are breath-taking, and Balluta’s promenade is dotted with outlets from which you can enjoy a leisurely breakfast, lunch or dinner. The most famous landmarks in the area include historical gems like the Gothic Revival Carmelite Church, which has been rebuilt three times over its storied history, and the elegant Art Nouveau-style Balluta Buildings, which was once the most prestigious address in Malta. As you make your way down the promenade towards Spinola Bay, direct your gaze to its colourful fishing boats and old boathouses for a glimpse of St Julian’s fishing village past.

There’s also a popular photo stop here: the LOVE monument by renowned Maltese architect Richard England. You’ll quickly notice that the word is inverted, but when the waters are still, you can see it spelled out in the reflection underneath. Further up, Portomaso forms the complex hosting Malta’s second tallest building – the Portomaso Business Tower. Boasting its own five-star marina which can berth more than 100 yachts, the complex is also home to a number of luxury shopping outlets, watering holes and restaurants. You can relax and party in lavish fashion here or head down to the island’s prime nightlife hotspot of Paceville, which is home to several clubs, bars and eateries. Further along, St George’s Bay is also worth a visit if you’re looking for a refreshing dip in the area, and, afterwards, there’s the added bonus of heading to one of the bars lining the bay for drinks as the sun sets.

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Balluta Buildings

Bay Street

LEISURE

H E R I TA G E Balluta Buildings

Portomaso Marina

It’s easy to see why this elegant Art Nouveau-style building overlooking Balluta Bay was once considered the most prestigious address in Malta. The monumental apartment block is listed on the National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands, and is celebrated for its sculpted façade adorned with repetitive angel motifs and elegant flying buttresses.

Forming part of the Portomaso residential complex, this five-star marina has space for 110 fully serviced berths, and its location – at the foot of the Portomaso steps, which is home to a variety of restaurants and bars – is ideal for those stepping off their trip and heading for a night on the town.

Balluta Bay

Home to the famed LOVE monument, Spinola Bay has experienced quite the dramatic transformation since its days as a quiet, fishing spot. Over the years, it has gone from a peaceful, seaside bay to one of the busiest areas on the island, with several popular restaurants and food outlets lining the bay.

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Balluta Church) Built on the former structure of a Neo-Gothic church established in 1859, the Gothic Revival Carmelite Church you can see today dates back to the early 20th century. Over the years, the previous church was rebuilt and enlarged to cater for the growing community of Balluta, and today, still fulfils its duties as the heart of Catholic activity in the parish. Balluta Bay

AT T R A C T I O N S Balluta Bay A popular destination for its café culture, Balluta Bay boasts several bars and restaurants, which envelope the small sandy beach.

Spinola Bay

St George’s Bay Just up the road from the partycentre of Paceville, nightspots spill over into St George’s Bay, guaranteeing its popularity with revellers up until the early hours of the morning. Bay Street, one of Malta’s most established shopping centres, is also situated here, along with a gamut of clubs, eateries and bars, so you can be sure to find anything you need, whether for day or night.

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Bay Street Boasting the longest shopping hours of all the malls in Malta (Mon-Sun 10am-10pm), Bay Street Shopping Complex is home to a wide range of local and international retail and dining brands, and located adjacent to the four-star be.Hotel which is accessible from the mall. There’s also a well-equipped entertainment centre on the fourth floor, including a kids’ play area. Earlier in 2021, the mall also benefited from an expansion and houses brands like Costa, Lindex, Sunlab, Harmont & Blaine, Gant, The Modelshop, Springfield, Swarovski and KIKO, among others. Soon, the much-loved American franchise, Rainforest Cafe, will also be opening its doors at the mall. St George’s Bay (2366 1585, www.baystreet.com.mt)

Casino Malta This extensive 3,000sqm casino features 285 slot machines, two electronic roulette tables and 31 casino and poker tables, as well as a sports betting and bar area. Patrons can also try their luck at a variety of table games such as American roulette, Blackjack, Ultimate Texas Hold’em, Punto Banco and Casino Malta poker. Eden Place, St Augustine Street (2371 0555, www.casinomalta.com.mt)

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Cynergi Health & Fitness Club

Portomaso Casino

Cleland & Souchet If you’re looking for luxury gifts to take home, Cleland & Souchet offers a range of wines, champagnes, spirits, cigars and fine foods, as well as silverware, gorgeous accessories and contemporary home décor. The shop is also the site of the first C&S Wine Café outlet. Block 14, Level 0, Portomaso (2138 9898, www.clelandsouchet.com) Eden SuperBowl

Cynergi Health & Fitness Club Considered among the best health and fitness clubs in Malta, Cynergi is spread over 2,000sqm, and features a dedicated cardiogym, a hammer strength plate-loaded zone, and a free-weights area, while the functional training zone includes plyometrics boxes, kettlebells, Bosu, medicine balls and TRX suspension trainers. Cynergi also offers members weekly group exercise classes. St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0700, www.cynergi.com.mt)

Eden Cinemas

The Playground

Catch a film at Eden Cinemas, Malta’s largest cinema complex, which features a choice of Hollywood releases, shown in English, and regular screenings of alternative movies. The first screening starts at around 2pm on weekdays and 11am at the weekend. Tickets may be purchased online or from the ticket booth.

Considered one of the island’s more ‘underground’ venues, The Playground’s focus is on house, techno and everything in between. It offers a carefree vibe that allows patrons to party away from the hustle and bustle typically experienced in the heart of Paceville.

St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0400, www.edencinemas.com.mt)

Dragonara Casino Offering a casino experience like no other, Dragonara Casino is housed within a stunning property built in 1870 for a Maltese marquis. It boasts over 300 slot machines (including poker, auto roulette and video slots) and table games (including roulette, Blackjack and Russian poker). Daily poker tournaments and promotions are also organised.

Eden SuperBowl

Dragonara Palace, Dragonara Road (2092 1000, www.dragonaracasino.com)

St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0777, www.edensuperbowl.com)

The Eden SuperBowl offers the highest standard of bowling available locally. It has a wellstocked bar, e-sports centre, American pool and arcade games area. For a fun outing that’s a little different to the norm, check out Disco Bowling, which is held every Friday night.

Dragonara Road (9945 8797)

Portomaso Casino Forming part of the luxurious Portomaso complex, this top-notch casino offers a wide variety of slot machines, card and table games, including craps, which is exclusive to Portomaso Casino. The minimum entry age is 18 for foreigners and 25 for Maltese nationals. Level -1, Portomaso (2138 3777, www.portomasocasino.com)

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E AT & D R I N K

Hugo’s Burger Bar

Manouche Craft Bakery & Bistro

AMERICAN

Hugo’s Burger Bar If you’ve got a burger craving, there’s bound to be something to satisfy at Hugo’s Burger Bar. Outfitted in a classic rockabilly diner style with a modern twist, this eatery offers a vast selection of delicious patties, handpressed and made with pure Angus beef. Vegetarian and halal options are also available. St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2016 2492, www.hugosburgerbar.com)

Shoreditch Thanks to its delicious pancake stacks, mouth-watering meals and innovative cooking techniques, Shoreditch has earned itself a legion of fans. Drawing inspiration from one of London’s foremost hipster districts, the Shoreditch burger should also be one of your top choices. Look out for the specials board too, which changes every week. 43, Wilga Street (2138 6748) CAFÉS

Crudo Overlooking the beautiful Balluta Bay, this coffee shop and wine bar specialising in Italian cuisine serves fresh coffee, focaccias, salads and platters for breakfast and lunch, but also offers a fun atmosphere with a variety of wine to choose from, accompanied by music in the evenings. 25, Main Street (9914 0837) 126 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Crust Bakery - Bar - Bistro The brainchild of popular local chef Sean Gravina, Crust fuses food creations from the bakery, deli and bar bite disciplines to create tasty options for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Carefully curated interiors, artwork and music perfectly complement fine breakfasts, freshly baked pastries, creatively crafted sandwiches, home-made pies, salads, burgers and a plethora of vegetarian and healthy offerings. Mensija Street (9938 0976)

Manouche Craft Bakery & Bistro This elegantly curated craft bakery and bistro celebrates the finesse of classic French cooking, combined with local ingredients and culinary traditions. Breakfast is a feast, with pancakes, croissants and cooked options available, while the lunch and dinner menu includes several hearty options to choose from. Their home-made chocolates are legendary. Mikiel Ang Borg Street (2704 1478, www.manouche.com.mt)

One Portomaso This beautifully designed, all-day food establishment offers a tempting, wide-ranging menu which includes beef wellington and a chicken and goat’s cheese burger, as well as an intriguing drinks list. Portomaso (2137 2918, www.themarinarestaurants.com)

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BRIAN GRECH

E AT & D R I N K

Zest

FUSION

Hammett’s Mestizo

Barracuda Restaurant

MEDITERRANEAN

The Avenue

Hammett’s Mestizo, a meso-south American-inspired fusion sharing dining experience, is a recently opened eatery by multi-award-winning chef and restaurateur Chris Hammett, alongside Venezuelan head chef Jorge Lugo. The concept is that of great food in a relaxed and cool environment using quality produce, all the while celebrating south American cuisine.

The food at The Avenue – one of the most popular casual restaurants on the island – is hearty, portions are large, and the menu is vast. The gondola, a closed pizza with honey and blue cheese, and the spaghetti buongustaia, with meat sauce, mushrooms and cream, are firm favourites – but the restaurant’s signature dish remains the beef wellington.

11, Schreiber Street (2779 5099, www.hammettsmestizo.com)

Gort Street (2135 1753, www.theavenuemalta.com)

Wagamama This famous franchise is renowned for its tasty teppanyaki, donburi and curries, while the fresh juices and delicious desserts are sure to satisfy those with a bit of a sweet tooth. St George’s Road (2010 6969, www.wagamama.com.mt)

Zest Zest takes fusion fare to a higher level with classy and complex dishes that have earned it a Michelin Plate recognition. Look out for the oxtail and chevre croquette, and steamed sea bass in a ginger and lemongrassscented yellow curry. Vegetarian and vegan options are also available. 25, St George’s Road (2138 7600, www.zestflavours.com)

Barracuda Restaurant One of the stalwarts of Malta’s fine dining scene, Barracuda combines heritage, ambience and good food in a way that’s hard to match – so much so that the Michelin Guide imbued it with a Plate recognition for good cooking. The menu features a selection of top-quality meat, fish and shellfish options. 194, 195, Main Street (2133 1817, www.barracudarestaurant.com)

Bianco’s A variety of spaces within this restaurant, open Monday to Sunday till late, cater for diverse experiences. Enjoy your meal in the main area, then retire to the sophisticated sofas in the chill-out corner for a bottle of wine from an extensive list. Bianco’s sweet platter, consisting of crêpes, Nutella, mixed nuts and fresh fruit, is immensely popular. St George’s Road (2135 9865, www.biancos.info) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 127

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SEAN MALLIA

E AT & D R I N K

Carob Tree

Caviar & Bull

Carob Tree This contemporary food court brings together a curated selection of eateries, offering guests different options of cuisines to choose from – including Indian, courtesy of Tuk Tuk; meat specialities, care of Brass & Knuckle; and Oriental, served up by Genki. Cocktails, by the mixologists at Medasia Bar, will make sure you don’t go thirsty. Mikiel Ang Borg Street (9947 0460, www.carobtree.com.mt)

Caviar & Bull Celebrated chef patron Marvin Gauci has overseen Caviar & Bull’s refined and diverse menu, which offers an original fusion of high-quality and experimental cuisines with a nod towards molecular gastronomy, that has earned it a Michelin Plate mention. Thrill your taste buds with Wagyu beef carpaccio or the restaurant’s signature black fried calamari, or try one of the two degustation menus. Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay, St George’s Bay (2759 3301, caviarandbull.com)

I Monelli Delivering an authentic Sicilian culinary experience, I Monelli offers a delectable choice of dishes, including a parmiggiana and freshly made vegetable-based dishes, yet the pièce de resistance has got to be the Neapolitan pizza, cooked in a wood-fired oven. 63A, Wilga Street (2136 0036, www.imonelli.com.mt)

Il Pirata Brothers Claudio and Alfredo Spiteri Debarro have succeeded in making a name for themselves in a short period of time. Although their pizzas, cooked in a woodfired oven, and their pasta dishes are in high demand, we just can’t get enough of the delicious tagliata, a carnivore’s dream. And if you’re looking to experience all this by the water’s edge, they also have a restaurant overlooking the picturesque Mellieha Bay, and more recently, along the Senglea Waterfront. 41, Paceville Avenue (2137 5827, www.ilpiratamalta.com.mt)

Impasta This pasta bar brings a taste of la bella Italia to Malta’s shores, offering delicious fresh pasta specialities using the finest ingredients. Whether your thing is spaghetti, fettuccine or bucatini, you can be sure that they will be cooked to perfection – al dente, as they’re meant to be. They’ve also got locations in Sliema and Valletta, within the recently refurbished Suq tal-Belt (Indoor Market), to satisfy your pasta craving. 8, Dobbie Street (2702 5292, www.impasta.bar)

Osteria Donna Carmela Set within the heart of Spinola and inspired by Milanese osterias of the 1950s, this restaurant offers guests the experience of traditional Italian dishes with a contemporary twist. The brainchild of two Italian restauranteurs also features a fantastic enoteca downstairs that’s perfect for enjoying an aperitivo. 159, St George’s Road (2138 8600, www.osteriadonnacarmela.com)

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BRIAN GRECH

E AT & D R I N K

Piccolo Padre

Piccolo Padre Delighting patrons since 1990, Piccolo Padre is a local institution. Set in an 18th century villa on the seafront, overlooking Spinola and Balluta Bays, this family-run restaurant is popular for its delicious pizzas, which are cooked in a traditional wood-burning oven. You can sit on the beautiful terrace, or within the charming interior. Two hours free parking is offered to patrons at The Marriott Hotel car park. 195, Main Street (2134 4875, www.piccolopadre.com)

Seed Overlooking the piazza at the Hyatt Regency Malta, this fashionable restaurant celebrates Mediterranean flavours through the use of local, seasonal ingredients, combined with contemporary technique and presentation. The farmto-fork eatery prides itself on crafting all its gastronomic creations daily from the very best of the island’s produce, as well as its very own herb garden. Hyatt Regency Malta, Sqaq Lourdes Street (2366 1592)

Susurrus This Michelin-recognised restaurant presents exciting Mediterranean cuisine influenced by the diversity of south American food, bonded with fresh local ingredients and avant-garde techniques, which result in a novel dining experience right on the water’s edge. The stylish décor against the picturesque backdrop of St George’s Bay is the cherry on the cake.

U Bistrot

Two Buoys Bringing Melbourne to Malta’s shores, chefs Nicky Deguara and Mark Miller have created a menu which is sure to satisfy anyone’s cravings, while also offering vegan and vegetarian options. The Footscray fritters, made of sweetcorn and zucchini, are a must, as is the seafood platter. 106, Spinola Road (2122 2221, www.two-buoys-bistro.com)

U Bistrot The recently refurbished U Bistrot is a local favourite for its standout breakfasts, freshly made lunches and tasty dinner dishes. For the most important meal of the day, we recommend the popular eggs Benedict (with smoked salmon or ham), or American-style pancakes with maple syrup or fruit jam. Balluta Bay (2311 2361, www.ubistrot.com)

Wigi’s This family-run restaurant may be small, but it’s got a big foodie heart. The menu changes daily according to what the market has to offer, with every dish making use of great-quality ingredients – from fresh, local gbejniet (cheeselets) and herbs from Gozo to mussels from Scotland, meat from Harmony Farm in Ireland and USDA beef rib-eye. Main Street (2137 7504)

St George’s Bay (7728 3342, www.susurrus.mt)

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E AT & D R I N K

MARK ANTHONY BUGEJA

ROBERTO MANGO

Zeri’s

Blue Elephant

Zeri’s Overlooking the stunning Portomaso marina, Zeri’s offers diners a feast for all the senses. The restaurant shows its mettle in the fish and seafood dishes on the menu, while the veal on the bone is also highly recommended. Finish off on a high note with the chocolate fondant. Portomaso (2135 9559, www.zerisrestaurant.com) ORIENTAL

Blue Elephant The award-winning Thai restaurant housed within Hilton Malta delivers an experience all of its own, decked out with huts, waterfalls and lush greenery – a delightful setting for a lavish meal. Sip a refreshing Mai Tai while enjoying the glorious marina views, before sampling topnotch Thai dishes such as the fiery tom yam koong soup, roasted duck curry and sweet and sour emerald chicken. Hilton Malta, Portomaso (2138 3383)

Club Sushi Counted among the handful of places on the island that serve traditional Korean specialities – such as beef bulgogi, cooked in a Korean marinade with mushrooms and onions, as well as seafood toppoki (spicy Korean rice cakes) – the sushi here is first class, as is evidenced by the amount of Korean patrons you’re bound to run into on your visit. Ball Street (2733 1555, clubsushimalta.com)

KuYa Asian Pub Upon their return to Malta following a stint in the Philippines, brothers Luke and Gabriel Ferris decided to launch KuYa, dedicated to authentic Asian dishes, out of a food truck, which would soon graduate to a permanent venue in St Julian’s. And now, it’s even earned itself a 130 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Michelin Plate recognition! One of the most popular dishes is the bang bang chicken, but make sure you try the mouth-watering kale fries too. Ross Street (2713 6517)

Okurama Japanese Cuisine The closest thing you will get to an Asian all-you-can-eat, Okurama introduced an innovative dining concept in the Maltese culinary scene when it opened a few years ago: a buffet option which allows you to order and sample as many varieties of nigiri, maki and sashimi as you please for a fixed price. The restaurant serves Asian and fusion dishes too. 9, Paceville Street (2781 1888, www.okurama.com.mt)

Zen Japanese Sushi Bar & Teppanyaki Undeniably one of the most authentic Japanese restaurants on the island, Zen serves the freshest sushi, and the skill with which the teppanyaki chef prepares each dish is first class. Try the miso marinated black cod Nobu style, or tempura udon (Japanese thick noodle soup) served with prawn and vegetable tempura, and down it all with some sake. Portomaso (2138 6500, www.themarinarestaurants.com) BARS

Balluta Bar This neighbourhood hangout is located just a few metres from the waterfront, and is a popular spot among locals and tourists alike, who flock here to enjoy its wide variety of spirits and great food. It’s also a treat for sports enthusiasts, showing all sports from around the world on two flat screen televisions. Manuel Dimech Street (9947 5364)

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Hugo’s Terrace

Jah Ruulz

Chalice Bar & Lounge This intimate and high-end space located opposite Hotel Valentina enjoys a prime location just outside the mayhem of central Paceville. The high ceilings, exposed brickwork and suspended light bulbs give it a stylish setting from which the qualified and experienced mixologists present a tempting cocktail menu. 2, Dobbie Street (2137 5020, www.chalicebar.com.mt)

City of London Founded at the outbreak of the Great War in 1914, City of London is one of Malta’s oldest bars. The bar has been in the safe hands of the Borg family ever since, with its outdoor terrace getting particularly popular in summer and on balmy evenings, while its small, cosy interior is perfect for those stormy nights. Main Street (2133 1706)

Dubliners Irish Pub Looking for a warm Irish welcome in Malta? Just head to Dubliners Irish Pub. Fish and chips, lamb shanks and of course, beef and Guinness stew are perennial favourites. Wash it all down with a brew for a taste of the emerald isle. Gorg Borg Olivier Street (2136 7106, www.irishpubmalta.com)

Hugo’s Terrace Perched right on the edge of St George’s Bay, Hugo’s Terrace, loved for its bold cocktails, is the flagship venue of the Hugo’s brand. Its stylish interiors – a mix of high and

low tables, with lounge areas for group events – include two fully stocked bars and a dancefloor. Head upstairs to The Rooftop for views over the bay. St George’s Road (2016 2495, www.hugosterrace.com)

Jah Ruulz Open from 10am till late, this reggae chill-out bar offers vegan and vegetarian cooking, knock-out cocktails and drinks, and of course, a truly great vibe. Sit on the steps outside during the summer months and enjoy a refreshing drink along with live music when available. 7, St Joseph Street, Spinola Bay (7710 5686)

The Thirsty Barber Step back in time to the 1920s at The Thirsty Barber – Malta’s first prohibition-style bar. The attention to detail, from the décor to the ingredients used in the drinks, is undeniable. The cocktails are among the most original you’ll find on the island, and draw inspiration from the speakeasies which characterised the era. Ball Street (9965 3012, www.thethirstybarber.com)

Tiffany This boutique bar offers a plentiful menu, featuring over 300 wines, 50 champagnes, rare whiskies, cognacs, ports and sherries, and is bound to impress with its professional sommelier service and sumptuous interiors. Nibbles – such as dips and platters – can be ordered, and you can even pick out a cigar to finish off your evening in style. Portomaso (2136 9100) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 131

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ST JULIAN’S

Boho Hostel This bohemian-style hostel set within a re-purposed villa offers excellent value for money. A short 10-minute walk away from the centre of town and boasting a large garden, Boho Hostel has four dorm rooms, each sleeping six guests and overlooking the garden, and one private room with a king-sized bed and en suite bathroom, which is wheelchair accessible. Villa Cycas, Dun Guzeppi Xerri Street (2765 6008, www.bohohostel.com)

Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay & Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort Enjoying picturesque sea views, these two hotels share amenities, but offer a five- or four-star accommodation, respectively. Make the most of the hotels’ combined eight restaurants and bars, three swimming pools and shallow outdoor children’s pool with large sun decks and loungers, on-site water sports and diving centre, as well as direct access to a rocky beach with a sandy volleyball court. St George’s Bay (2137 4114, www.corinthia.com)

The District Hotel Enjoying a prime location that’s a five-minute walk from St George’s Bay, The District Hotel overlooks Paceville, Malta’s entertainment and nightlife capital. Each elegantly-designed room has its own private balcony, is fully air-conditioned and fitted with a flat-screen TV. Free high speed Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel. The lounge area at The District Hotel enjoys a relaxed atmosphere with background music, offering a range of beverages, wines and cocktails. St Augustine Road (2741 1441, www.thedistricthotel.com.mt) 132 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Holiday Inn Express

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The George Hotel The George Hotel’s tranquil ambience and fresh décor make it a popular choice for both business and leisure stays. Each of the 112 rooms – ranging from penthouse suites to self-catering studios – is bright and spacious, boasts an eco-friendly design and comes with complimentary Wi-Fi access. Paceville Avenue (2011 1000, www.thegeorgemalta.com)

Hilton Malta Kick back in the Hilton Malta’s stylishly decorated rooms, all 413 of which are bursting with Mediterranean flair, while the executive rooms and suites also offer access to the Executive Lounge. Take a dip in one of the hotel’s four outdoor pools and enjoy al fresco dining with sea views. Among its many facilities are the Myoka 5 Senses Spa and the fully equipped LivingWell fitness centre. Portomaso (2138 3383, www.malta.hilton.com)

Holiday Inn Express Distinguished by its colourful and angular balconies, the Holiday Inn Express features stylishly designed guest rooms spread over eight floors, and offers a choice of bedding and pillows for optimal comfort, free Wi-Fi, complimentary hot drinks and a smart TV. Business centre facilities are available from the hotel’s lobby lounge. St Augustine Street (2379 5000, www.holidayinnexpress.com/malta)

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BRIAN GRECH

Hostel Malti

Hotel Valentina

Holm Hotel & Spa This boutique and design-driven hotel delivers a one-ofa-kind stay to guests who are looking for high standards, without standardisation. Its avante-garde rooms aim to be playful, comfortable and memorable, and the cutting-edge spa facilities offer exclusive services and treatments, for an unmatched multi-sensory experience. Fabri Lane (2131 3133, www.holmhotel.com)

Hostel Malti This laid-back hideaway in Ta’ Giorni features four comfortable dorms that sleep up to 32 people, as well as two private twin rooms and two double en suite rooms. Guests can avail themselves of the outdoor barbecue area and jacuzzi, and even take part in organised group trips to Gozo and Comino during the summer months. 109, Birkirkara Hill, Ta’ Giorni (2730 2758)

Hotel Juliani Having recently reopened its doors after an extensive refurbishment, Hotel Juliani is memorable for its stylish décor, friendly staff, personalised service and central, seaside location. It has 47 rooms, some of which enjoy 134 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

unobstructed sea views of picturesque Spinola Bay. The TRX/Cybex fitness centre will get you moving, though you can also get some R&R by the luxuriously finished rooftop pool or at the spa on the lower floor. 25, St George’s Road (2138 8000, www.hoteljuliani.com)

Hotel Valentina Smack dab in the centre of the island’s nightlife hub and surrounded by lively bars, restaurants and casinos, Hotel Valentina offers a homely feel in a contemporary setting. All 94 rooms in this the family-run hotel are tastefully designed and fully equipped with the latest mod cons, including free Wi-Fi. Dobbie Street (2138 2232, www.hotelvalentina.com)

Hugo’s Boutique Hotel Also set within the very heart of Paceville, Hugo’s Boutique Hotel is Malta’s first high-tech hotel, with 40 individually designed rooms and suites spread across eight floors. Each room is equipped with free Wi-Fi, as well as a room management system that allows you to control your surroundings using in-room tablets. St George’s Road (2016 2420, www.hugoshotels.com)

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InterContinental Malta Jules Suites

Hyatt Regency Malta Located a stone’s throw away from St George’s Bay, the recently opened Hyatt Regency Malta features 151 wellappointed guest rooms and suites, many of which enjoy spectacular views across the city and beyond onto the crystalline Mediterranean sea. Relax by the impressive rooftop pool or get a workout in at the Hyatt StayFit Gym before opting for a rejuvenating treatment at its spa and boutique wellness centre. Sqaq Lourdes Street (2137 5050, www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/ malta/hyatt-regency-malta/mlarm)

Inhawi Hostel Comprising 19 rooms with a total of 132 beds, Inhawi Hostel offers a variety of options, from four-person bedrooms to 12-bed dorms, mixed or female-only. The hip hostel overlooking Balluta Bay also boasts a peaceful pool and garden area, which makes for the perfect place to kick back, worship the sun and get to know other travellers. Balluta Valley (2138 2554, www.inhawi.com)

InterContinental Malta Boasting 481 elegantly furnished bedrooms, InterContinental Malta is the definition of luxury. On the upper floors, the stunning Highline suites offer guests the chance to avail themselves of the Club InterContinental Lounge and access to the exclusive Skybeach bar and restaurant. St George’s Bay (2137 7600, www.malta.intercontinental.com)

Jules Suites This smartly finished accommodation option is spread on four floors with four suites on each level, apart from the top level, which houses two larger-sized suites. The

Deluxe suites feature a good-sized balcony, and all suites have a fully equipped kitchenette. Continental breakfast is served on the ground floor, while outdoor dining is offered on the back terrace. St Andrew’s Road (9911 1707, www.julessuitesmalta.com)

Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa Located just metres away from Balluta Beach, the newly refurbished Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa combines luxurious charm and the relaxed feel of the Mediterranean with premium rooms and luxury suites. It also boasts five diverse restaurants, three bars, a rooftop pool and an incredible spa, not to mention 15,000 square feet of meeting and banqueting space. 39, Main Street, Balluta Bay (2311 0000, www.maltamarriott.com)

Marco Polo Hostel This recently opened 114-bed hostel offers backpackers and travellers the perfect base to discover all that Malta has to offer. Close to beaches, nightlife, restaurants and bus stops, it’s easy to get out and explore from Marco Polo Hostel, or if you’re looking to take it easy, you can spend the day relaxing on their large rooftop terrace drinking a mojito in the glorious sunshine. Ross Street (2700 1430)

The Westin Dragonara Resort Located along the promenade leading from St George’s Bay to Paceville is the elegant Westin Dragonara Resort. Boasting its own Blue Flag private beach, a stunning view of the hotel’s lidos can be enjoyed from most of the rooms and suites, which are spacious, bright and comfortable, while the range of restaurants and bars is extensive. Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www.westinmalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 135

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A complete

NEW

Destination Since its founding in 1999, Bay Street Group has continually invested in its diverse Hospitality, Retail and Food & Beverage offering to provide visitors with an all-round unforgettable experience. Albert Galea, Chief Executive Officer of Bay Street Group, delves into the many facets of the Group and all it can offer to its clients.

or over 20 years, Bay Street Group has been providing locals and tourists alike with top-notch entertainment in various forms in the heart of St Julian’s, which has evolved over time to reflect customers’ changing wants and needs. Today, the Group’s portfolio is based on three main pillars: Hospitality, Retail and Food and Beverage (F&B), elevating the bustling town’s offering on all three fronts. Albert Galea, Chief Executive Officer of Bay Street Group, says since its founding in 1999, the Group has indeed come a long way – “one of the major milestones is its evolution from being a company of four shareholders and two businesses to one that now has two shareholders and four major businesses.” In the area of hospitality, the Group operates two hotels, one of them being the four-star, urban-style be.Hotel, which consists of two connected wings built around the Bay Street Shopping Complex. With its designer-led rooms and suites, a rooftop panoramic pool and on-site restaurant, be.Hotel

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is a perfect complement to the shopping complex, and centrally located minutes away from St George’s Bay as well as the nightlife district of Paceville. Meanwhile, the five-star Hyatt Regency Malta is one of the Group’s latest major investments, which forms part of the Hyatt Regency chain of hotels that specialises in accommodation for both business and leisure travellers. Its stunning design combines modern architecture with Maltese heritage, delivering a fascinating ‘past meets present’ experience. Mr Galea explains that the recent expansion of be.Hotel is indeed a milestone in the Group’s evolution. “The rooms have doubled since it first opened, which means it can now accommodate more people than ever before. It started off with 130 rooms and now has 293,” he asserts. “Through an investment of €3.5 million, we expanded the hotel’s reception and modernised the rooms, and we can confidently say that the investment has been received well by clients while improving the overall rating of the hotel. We also invested €45 million to bring the international hotel brand, Hyatt Regency, to Malta, which offers an elevated experience for visitors.”

Albert Galea, CEO, Bay Street Group

On the retail front, Bay Street Shopping Complex is the feather in the Group’s cap, offering a varied mix of luxury and high-street brands to suit all demographics across a floor area of 10,500sqm. Currently home to

BRIAN GRECH

“We also invested €45 million to bring the international hotel brand, Hyatt Regency, to Malta, which offers an elevated experience for visitors.”

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42 brands, 28 of which are retail, these range from Guess, Harmont & Blaine and Gant to Tommy Hilfiger, Skechers, and one of the latest additions, Swedish fashion chain, Lindex. The Group also represents international brands Women’secret, Cortefiel, Springfield and Pedro del Hierro in Malta. The CEO asserts that, over the past year, despite the enormous challenges brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic and the severe impact this has had in all areas that the Group operates in, investments continued to be made, including in the shopping complex, which was extensively refurbished “in order to be new and improved for when the world reopens again. Along with our tenants, we invested €14 million at the complex to upscale their outlets in line with international standards. For us, they are partners, and not clients.” As for F&B, Bay Street Group operates sophisticated restaurant, Seed, led by award-winning executive chef Noel Azzopardi, which overlooks the piazza of the Hyatt Regency Malta, as well as Rainforest Cafe – the much-loved American chain which will be opening its doors in the coming weeks within the shopping complex. “Bringing the Rainforest Cafe to Bay Street took a lot of hard work and constant investment,” says Mr Galea. “In the past, there were attempts in Malta to copy the concept, but we wanted to offer the real thing to our clients, the original Rainforest Cafe, which is beloved and popular around the world, including in Disney Land and Disney World.” Currently in its 17th year since opening its first store, The Rainforest Cafe franchise operates 45 restaurants around the world, including London, Niagara Falls, Tokyo and Paris. Created to educate its visitors on the protection and preservation of animal and plant species in the world’s tropical rainforests, the establishment offers visitors a chance to combine a variety of food, entertainment, and adventure in an impressively decorated space, complete with waterfalls, mist, and life-like animal figures.

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“We wanted to offer the real thing to our clients, the original Rainforest Cafe, which is beloved and popular around the world.” To this end, Bay Street offers the complete experience, leaving no stone unturned in ensuring that visitors of all ages are well catered for in all manners of entertainment. Mr Galea reiterates this, adding “visitors at Bay Street can find all that they need in one place. The concept of Bay Street as a complex and hotel is a winning formula – it is unique and the first of its kind locally, while ensuring that it offers visitors inimitable experiences and something for everyone to enjoy.” With many plans in the pipeline for the Group, which will be revealed in due course, Mr Galea says that the beauty of Bay Street Group is its ability to cater for all visitors – from business travellers to families with young children, as well as locals looking for a weekend escape in a bustling town with lots to offer. “Here at Bay Street, we pride ourselves on providing a varied experience that everyone can enjoy, so we encourage visitors to explore all we have to offer – we guarantee that you will discover something you love,” concludes Mr Galea. www.baystreet.com.mt

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The Three Cities & Around On this part of the island, you can learn a lot of what there is to know about Malta’s long and rich history, starting from its earliest settlers. All this alongside stunning architecture, picturesque streets and promenades, and a wealth of eatery options ranging from fast and casual to fine dining.

he Three Cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua (also referred to in Maltese as Birgu, Isla and Bormla respectively), are known collectively as Cottonera in honour of Grand Master Cottoner, who built their inland defences. The cities have played a pivotal role throughout Malta’s history, and continue to attract scores of visitors no matter the time of year. We recommend you start your tour at Dock 1 in Cospicua – which you can reach on foot, or by boat by hopping onto the ferry from Valletta (www.vallettaferryservice.com). The landscaped modern walkway connects the scenic promenade between Senglea, Cospicua and Vittoriosa. If

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you cross the pedestrian bridge across Dockyard Creek at the mouth of the dock, you’ll reach another city, Senglea, via the Senglea Waterfront. If you stay on the main walkway, you’ll be led to the Vittoriosa Waterfront, which is now a picturesque port of call for countless yachts and super yachts, as well as a lovely spot for lunch or dinner at one of the many restaurants lining the promenade. At its tip is the majestic Fort St Angelo which, after years of restoration, is open to the public and well worth a visit. It will give you the chance to see the bastions up close and understand Malta’s chequered history in greater depth.

THE THREE CITIES & AROUND Malta’s only interactive science centre, Esplora, which makes for a great family outing, as well as breath-taking views.

Chosen by the Order of the Knights of St John as their first seat of power upon their arrival in Malta in 1530, Vittoriosa – which has been described as the ‘cradle of Maltese history’ – flourished with the erection of majestic palaces and public buildings, many of which still stand today, despite suffering significant damage during the Great Siege of 1565 and later during World War II.

If exploring natural spaces is what you’re after, be sure to visit Wied iz-Zurrieq, arguably one of the most scenic spots in Malta. To really absorb its sheer beauty, take a boat ride to the unparalleled Blue Grotto, or hike down the valley of Wied Babu to enjoy some raw and rugged countryside.

Among the many highlights to explore here are the Saint Lawrence Church (designed by Malta’s most prominent Baroque architect, Lorenzo Gafà), the Inquisitor’s Palace, the Bishop’s Palace and the charming Collachio.

The sea is a major draw of this part of Malta, and there’s no better place to observe fishermen at work than at the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, famous for its Sunday morning fish market and its promenade, lined with (mainly) fish restaurants and bustling with fishermen tending to their nets or traditional, colourful boats.

Once you’ve experienced the best of Vittoriosa, continue on to Senglea, which also played an important role in the Great Siege of 1565. It is the only city that remained unconquered, earning the title Civitas Invicta (Unconquered City) from Grand Master Jean de la Valette. 5

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A must-visit here are the peaceful Gardjola Gardens, which were planned in 1551 by Grand Master de la Sengle and offer unobstructed views of Valletta. We 4 also recommend you stop and marvel at the Our Lady of Victories Basilica, followed by a stroll along the alluring Senglea Waterfront. Just beyond the Three Cities, a visit to Kalkara is well worth it – a quiet town with ample local charm, and home to

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Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum

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Fort St Angelo

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

Hagar Qim Temple

Ghar Dalam

H E R I TA G E Collegiate Church of the Immaculate Conception This towering parish church of Cospicua was built in the early 1700s and elevated to the status of collegiate church in 1822. It has an imposing façade with restrained décor, and the star oeuvre d’art is the titular statue of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary, which is largely clad in silver. Gendus Street, Cospicua (2182 8413, www.cospicuaparish.org.mt)

Fort Rinella One of four coastal batteries built by the British in the late 19th century, Fort Rinella is today still home to an Armstrong 100-tonne gun. Guided tours at the fort include a historical re-enactment, a swordsmanship display and a film, while free audio guides are available in several languages. St Rocco Road, Kalkara (2180 0992, www.fortrinella.com)

Fort St Angelo

Hagar Qim Temple

Dominating the Grand Harbour, Fort St Angelo has been strategically important since antiquity, particularly for the Knights of St John during the Great Siege of 1565. Apart from its countless architectural gems, the fort today also includes an interpretation centre and a museum shop.

Pre-dating Stonehenge in England and the Pyramids of Egypt, this 5,000-year-old megalithic temple is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its location is just as spectacular, with the nearby temples of Mnajdra just 500m away and stunning panoramic sea views beyond the islet of Filfla.

Xatt l-Assedju l-Kbir 1565, Vittoriosa (2540 1800, www.heritagemalta.org)

Ghar Dalam Step back in time at this prehistoric site on the outskirts of Birzebbuga, which contains the earliest evidence of human settlement in Malta and remains of Ice Age animals that are more than 500,000 years old. The site features a cave, a Victorian-style exhibition and a garden planted with local fauna. Ghar Dalam Road, Birzebbuga (2165 7419, www.heritagemalta.org)

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Hagar Qim Street, Qrendi (2142 4231, www.heritagemalta.org)

Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum Also a UNESCO World Heritage site, the remarkable Hypogeum is an underground temple and burial place with interconnecting rock-cut chambers set on three distinct levels. The complex includes remains dating back to around 4,000BC. Ticket sales are restricted to preserve the site, so book well ahead. Burial Street, Paola (2180 5019, www.heritagemalta.org)

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Our Lady of Victories Basilica Tarxien Temples

St Lawrence Church Before St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta was built, St Lawrence Church served as the conventual church of the Order of St John between 1530 and 1571. The present church was erected between 1681 and 1697, and is a magnificent example of Roman-Baroque architecture with a rich interior.

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91, St Lawrence Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7057)

Inquisitor’s Palace

Mnajdra Temples

One of few surviving buildings of its kind, the Inquisitor’s Palace in Vittoriosa pre-dates the arrival of the Knights of St John in Malta. Throughout its history, it served as the official residence of many highranking individuals, and today it showcases Malta’s intriguing history through the ages.

Another fascinating megalithic temple complex and UNESCO World Heritage site, Mnajdra Temples consist of three structures, the oldest dating back 3,6003,200BC. They also share a visitor centre with Hagar Qim and are among the most intact of the prehistoric temples anywhere in the Mediterranean region.

St Lawrence Church Museum

Hagar Qim Street, Qrendi (2142 4231, www.heritagemalta.org)

91, St Lawrence Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7057)

Set within 18th-century military barracks that were used as a wartime police station, the museum highlights Malta’s military history and its endurance during World War II. Audio guides and tours are available for visitors to better explore the extensive airraid shelters and exhibited war memorabilia.

Our Lady of Victories Basilica

Tarxien Temples

Couvre Porte, Vittoriosa (2189 6617, www.maltaatwarmuseum.com)

Pope Benedict XV Square, Senglea (2182 7203)

Main Gate Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7006, www.heritagemalta.org)

Malta At War Museum

Built in 1580 in honour of Malta’s Great Siege, the church was elevated to the rank of basilica by Pope Benedict XV in 1921. Senglea’s parish church houses the only crowned titular statue in Malta and the statue of Kristu Redentur (Christ the Redeemer), believed to have healing powers.

Next door to St Lawrence Church, within a 16th-century former chapel, is a museum that contains artefacts from Vittoriosa throughout the ages. Among them are religious items used by the Knights of St John, as well as a hat and a sword that belonged to Grand Master Jean de la Valette.

These Neolithic temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built between 3,600 and 2,500 BC, feature intricate stone carvings, relief sculptures, and stone spheres likely used to move megaliths. Visitors can use the Tarxien Temple app, which is available in six languages and features an audio guide. Neolithic Temples Street, Tarxien (2169 5578, www.heritagemalta.org)

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

Inquisitor’s Palace

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

Marsaxlokk Waterfront

Esplora

DARREN AGIUS

AT T R A C T I O N S

Blue Grotto

Blue Grotto The Blue Grotto is a complex of sea caves on the south coast of Malta, named by a visiting British soldier for its clear, bright blue waters. The main arch is spectacular, as are the caves’ walls which reflect the colours of the underwater flora. Regular boat trips from here are the best means to soak in the beauty of the area. Wied iz-Zurrieq, l/o Qrendi (2164 0058, www.bluegrottomalta.com.mt)

The Collachio Soon after their arrival in Malta, the Knights of St John carved out an exclusive area within Vittoriosa as their Collachio – an enchanting maze of winding streets brimming with Baroque buildings and monuments, including their auberges, a state-of-the-art hospital, townhouses and grand palaces, many of which still stand today. South of Hilda Tabone Street, Vittoriosa

Dock 1

Gardjola Gardens

Formerly part of Malta Dry Docks, Dock 1 was built before the arrival of the Knights of St John in Malta, who based their armada at this creek. It was later developed further by the British Navy and today, following an extensive restoration project, it is a picturesque walkway that connects the Three Cities.

The Gardjola Gardens, located on the bastion of Senglea, offer sweeping views of Valletta, Grand Harbour and Fort St Angelo. The on-site guard tower, or gardjola, has various symbols sculpted on it, such as an eye, an ear and the crane bird, representing observance and guardianship over Malta.

Cospicua

Senglea

Esplora This family-friendly science centre aims to cultivate scientific curiosity and thinking by encouraging questioning, investigation and discovery. Suitable for all ages, it includes an impressive Planetarium, with presenter-led visualisations of our planet and the solar system, and 200 interactive exhibits. Villa Bighi, Kalkara (2360 2300, www.esplora.org.mt)

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Marsaxlokk Waterfront A stroll along the Marsaxlokk promenade is as picturesque as they come. Experience the daily open-air market, the traditional fishing boats bobbing in the bay, and take your pick from the many delicious fish restaurants along the way. The Sunday fish market is also a popular draw of this village. Marsaxlokk

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

Ghar Lapsi Bay

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St Peter’s Pool

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Pretty Bay Pretty Bay is a large, man-made sandy beach in Birzebbuga in the south of Malta, with ample space to throw down a towel. Several cafés, bars and restaurants surround the bay, as well as a football pitch, a children’s playground and a promenade that is ideal for an evening stroll.

The Royal Malta Golf Club

LEISURE

Birzebbuga

Senglea Waterfront Considerably quieter than the busier Vittoriosa Waterfront across the water, the Senglea Waterfront is enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. Indulge in drinks or a delicious meal somewhere along the esplanade and take in the magnificent view of the surrounding historical buildings and yacht marina.

Ghar Lapsi Bay A small yet hugely popular bay, Ghar Lapsi’s rocky shoreline forms a sheltered natural swimming pool from the deep, open sea beyond. It’s a great spot for snorkelling and exploring the surrounding caves when not too busy, but there are no facilities for sunbathing, so you’ll need to improvise. Siggiewi

Senglea

Vittoriosa Waterfront The Vittoriosa Waterfront is a bustling spot in the Three Cities filled with restaurants, bars and cafés. Wherever you sit, enjoy the superb views across the super yachts berthed in the marina towards Valletta’s magnificent bastions, and from Fort St Angelo, which is right at the end of the waterfront. Vittoriosa

The Royal Malta Golf Club Founded in 1888, and originally located in Valletta, the Royal Malta Golf Club is Malta’s only golf course and one of 66 in the world to carry the ‘royal’ title. The excellent facilities within its clubhouse include a golf shop and a terrace bar and restaurant, complete with fantastic views. Off Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2540 1300, www.royalmaltagolfclub.com)

Marsa Sports Club Marsa Sports Club is Malta’s largest sports complex, home to 19 tennis courts (including two indoor courts and the only two clay courts available on the island), five air-conditioned squash courts, an open-air swimming pool, a cricket pitch, a gym studio, and facilities for several sports disciplines. Marsa Sports Club, Off Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2123 3851, www.marsasportsclub.com)

St Peter’s Pool This raw and remote, natural swimming pool is one of Malta’s most stunning swimming spots, located close to Marsaxlokk, at the tip of Delimara Point in the southwest. The crystal-clear sea is ideal for snorkelling, while the flat rocks surrounding it are excellent sunbathing areas. Marsaxlokk

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E AT & D R I N K

Bongo Nyah

Capo Mulini

FUSION

Bongo Nyah This hip café, bar and restaurant combines a mouthwatering menu with dishes inspired by cuisines from across four different continents. You’ll find a range of tapas, healthy choices and guilty treats, as well as an extensive choice of drinks ranging from cocktails and beers to artisanal teas and coffees.

Tal-Petut This charming eatery hidden in the backstreets of Vittoriosa promises authentic local dishes with a twist. The menu changes daily and offers a genuine taste of Malta, making the most of good-quality, seasonal produce, while showcasing a unique take on traditional local cuisine. 20 Pacifiku Scicluna Street, Vittoriosa (2189 1169, www.talpetut.com)

Gardiel Street, Marsascala (9965 9472, www.bongonyah.com.mt) MEDITERRANEAN MALTESE

Ta’ Rita Lapsi View Bar & Restaurant Established in the 1930s, this popular eatery is widely celebrated for its delicious rabbit dishes, traditionally prepared either fried in garlic or stewed in gravy, but is also sought after for its fresh fish, pizzas and barbecued items. With gorgeous views of the scenic Ghar Lapsi, it’s a great place for a meal after a refreshing dip.

Alka Restaurant With sweeping sea views that stretch to the tiny islet of Filfla and beyond, a visit to Alka, located in the outskirts of Qrendi, is well worth it. The constantly changing Mediterranean menu is based on the seasonal availability of fresh produce, particularly fish and seafood, guaranteeing a delectable dining experience. 1/3, Congreve Street, Qrendi (2168 1572)

Lapsi Road, Siggiewi (2164 0608, www.taritalapsiview.co)

Ta’ Victor Arguably one of the best restaurants in Marsaxlokk, the team here has a real passion for traditional Maltese food. You’ll find local delicacies like snails, octopus, rabbit, lamb and fresh fish, and, for dessert, don’t miss the imqaret (date pastries), complemented by a local sweet wine. Madonna ta’ Pompei Square, Marsaxlokk (9947 4249)

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Capo Mulini At the heart of this stylish restaurant is quality Sicilian cuisine inspired by tradition. The vast menu includes a super selection of fish starters, pastas and mains, as well as some meat options. Ask for the daily specials or recommendations to make the most of fresh, seasonal specialities. Fishermen’s Wharf, Marsaxlokk (9939 3996, www.capo-mulini.com)

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EnChante

Hammett’s Macina Restaurant

Carmen’s Bar Idyllically set right by Ghar Lapsi bay, Carmen’s Bar offers an intimate and authentic Mediterranean dining experience by the water’s edge, in a very informal setting. Fish and seafood, including fresh oysters and scallops, are the stars of the menu, but diners can also choose from a selection of meats and snacks. Ghar Lapsi, Siggiewi (2146 7305, www.carmensgharlapsi.com)

Chukkas Located within the Malta Polo Club and also in Mosta, Chukkas is a friendly and casual eatery that serves first-class, mainly meat-based dishes. Its speciality is Argentinean meat cooked expertly on a log grill, but you’ll also find fish, pasta and vegetarian options, all using the freshest seasonal produce. The Malta Polo Club, Marsa Sports Ground, Marsa (2122 8476, www.chukkasmalta.com). Also Durumblat Street, Mosta

EnChante With a solid reputation for serving delicious fish dishes, EnChante, located along the Senglea Waterfront, is a must-try for fish lovers. It boasts a vast menu – as well as daily specials – of freshly-prepared exquisite dishes, also catering for meat eaters. Diners can enjoy their relaxing meal indoors or take in the magnificent scenery of the marina outdoors.

Hammett’s Macina Restaurant Located within an impressive, restored 16th century fort, Hammett’s Macina is a feast for the senses. The menu is inspired by various cuisines, but typically includes raw and cured options as well as meat, fish and vegetable dishes. The menu changes regularly but is always exciting. 31st March Street, Senglea (2779 4171, www.hammettsmacina.com)

La Favorita A favourite for fish on the island, La Favorita is a homely eatery with a welcoming atmosphere. It’s a perfect place if you’re keen to sample the catch of the day, while the varied menu also offers traditional dishes, including juicy rib-eye steaks and vegetarian options. Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 4113)

T’Anna Mari T’Anna Mari’s kitchen brings a taste of Sicily to Malta. Chef patron Salvatore Piccione, who hails from Ragusa, brings decades of experience to every dish prepared. Fish has a prominent place on the menu, alongside a variety of other Mediterranean options served in a distinctly local setting. Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2744 6211, www.tannamari.com)

Ix-Xatt Juan B Azzopardi Street, Senglea (9924 9069) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 147

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E AT & D R I N K

Tartarun

Del Borgo

Ta’ Grabiel Restaurant & Terrazza Established in 1953, this institution in Marsascala remains a favourite for customers from all over the island. Its extensive menu is as varied as they come – ranging from snacks, salads and pasta to sharing platters, fish and seafood dishes, and meat courses. The service is friendly, and portions are generous. Mifsud Bonnici Square, Marsascala (2163 4194, www.grabielrestaurant.com)

Tal-Familja True to its name meaning ‘of the family’, Tal-Familja revolves around a rustic, homely atmosphere, delicious food and friendly service. It is run by the Precas, an established foodie family on the island, who are all involved in producing the restaurant’s varied menu specialising in Maltese and Italian cuisines. Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 2161, www.talfamiljarestaurant.com)

Tartarun For an elevated dining experience that’s a little beyond the ordinary, and if you harbour a love for fresh fish, a visit to Tartarun will not disappoint. This rustic yet modern 148 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

restaurant specialises in fresh fish and seafood served in beautifully-presented plates, along with a vast array of fine wines. Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2165 8089, www.tartarun.com)

Terrone Its location may be new, but Terrone’s menu remains faithful to its roots – concise, fresh and centred around hand-picked, seasonal produce. Focusing on southern Italian and Maltese cuisines, the daily-changing menu includes fresh fish and meat options, as well as a selection of antipasti and pasta choices. Fort St Angelo, Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa (2704 2656, www.terrone.com.mt) BARS

Del Borgo A cross between an eatery and a wine bar, Del Borgo boasts an extensive and well-stocked cellar chock-full of local and international wines, complemented by a delicious and varied menu that includes a selection of platters and Mediterranean and Maltese dishes in a quaint local setting. St Dominic Street, Vittoriosa (9944 7954, www.delborgomalta.com)

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

DANIEL CILIA

SLEEP

The Snop House ELISA ALLEN

The Burrow Guest House

The Burrow Guest House Set in a 17th-century house in the quiet village of Tarxien, this family-run B&B, located close to the ancient Tarxien Temples, is a typical Maltese home with antique furnishings and exposed stone walls. Guests can enjoy free Wi-Fi and a delicious continental buffet breakfast, served daily. No 3, Alley 4, St Mary Street, Tarxien (9949 3360, www.theburrowmalta.net)

Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour

Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour Senglea’s iconic Macina Bastion has been converted into this lavish five-star hotel, which expertly combines an evocative history, a unique harbour location, spectacular views and modern luxury. The hotel offers 21 suites with unobstructed views of Grand Harbour and the surrounding marina, and also houses a stylish bar and the Hammet’s Macina Restaurant.

The Snop House

31st March Street, Senglea (2711 2711, www.cugogranmalta.com)

23, Victory Street, Senglea (2702 9324, www.thesnophouse.com)

Born of a French couple’s love for Malta and a passion for art, The Snop House occupies a beautifully renovated classic building, which has retained its original character and soul. This boutique accommodation offers six exquisitely designed bedrooms, two on each floor, all serviced by an elevator and furnished with great taste. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 149

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SLIEMA & AROUND

Sliema & Around There’s never a dull moment in the seaside town of Sliema. Indulge in some shopping, savour a warm drink in one of its myriad coffee shops, or simply people-watch from a bench on its long promenade – this popular spot never gets boring.

liema is synonymous with entertainment, shopping and great eateries, so it’s no surprise that locals head down to this seaside town day after day seeking some distraction from the humdrum of their routines. Its restaurants, bars and outlets are popular year-round, though in summer, its fashionable beach clubs also draw those seeking some sun, a dip, or just a little bit of mingling with Malta’s in-crowd.

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Known as Tas-Sliema in Maltese – with the word deriving from sliem, meaning peace – the bustling area originated as a summer resort for the well-heeled, who would escape the inner regions for the cool air this northeastern spot

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SLIEMA & AROUND

afforded. The 19th century saw the burgeoning of stunning townhouses, their colonial-era bay windows overlooking the sea, while within their walls, gardens offered a space for respite. Today, not many of these grand homes remain, having made way, throughout the 20th century, for ubiquitous apartment blocks which line the much-loved promenade, and which showcase a modern aesthetic in tune with the changing times. However, remnants of the past remain, with some of these former townhouses having been lovingly restored, becoming beautiful homes ensconced in the tiny backstreets of this town. Getting to Sliema is easy: the town is well-marked on road signs if you’re driving, but, if you’re not, it is wellserved by the island’s public transport system. Yet, probably the most attractive way of getting here is by using the Valletta ferry, a short boat ride departing from the capital, which allows you to get a good view of the seaside spot as you come in to dock.

Over the years, the town has grown, stretching along the coast, from the entrance of Manoel Island, right up to Balluta Bay in St Julian’s. Between these two points lie hundreds of cafés, shops, eateries, bars, hotels and residences, strung along and behind the promenade, popular from morning to night with joggers, families with pushchairs or friends catching up while taking a stroll. During the day, hit the high street: the main shopping hubs are the trendy Bisazza Street and Tower Road, home to myriad stores, selling fashionwear, electronics and books. The Point, one of the island’s largest shopping malls, is also located here, and is home to a large open square, perfect for the kids to run around in while the adults buy themselves a little treat. And, as the sun goes down, an aperitif al fresco in one of Sliema’s seaside watering holes, goes down a treat, followed by a standout dinner. You’ll really be spoilt for choice, whether you fancy traditional treats, or are looking for something a little bit more left-field.

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VIEWINGMALTA.COM/MIKE WATSON PHOTOGRAPHY

SLIEMA & AROUND

Sliema Promenade

H E R I TA G E

Manoel Island

AT T R A C T I O N S

The Backstreets of Sliema Today, Sliema is a bustling, cosmopolitan town, but it still retains the charm of bygone times. Explore its backstreets for an authentic look at the lives of those who have made this town their home for decades: old ladies heading out to church; community stores raising their shutters and the smell of freshly baked Maltese bread.

Manoel Island This outcrop, currently undergoing embellishment works, which operates as a yacht marina, and is home to restaurants, historic sites and even a duck village, is connected to the mainland by means of a curved, short bridge. Once you’ve crossed over, there is a greater sense of calm, when compared to the hectic atmosphere at its entrance, making it well worth the trip. Gzira

Parish Church of Jesus of Nazareth Nestled between cosmopolitan eateries, the Sliema parish church is immensely popular on Saturday evenings with the young and older crowds. Built in 1895 by Marchese Ermolao Zimmermann Barbaro Di San Giorgio, it was later handed over to the Dominican Friars and established as the town’s only parish church in 1973. The Strand, Sliema

The Ferries Aptly known as The Ferries – this is where the Valletta to Sliema ferry docks – this strip of picturesque promenade is lined with some of the town’s best-loved eateries and outlets. And, the impressive views to Valletta, with the capital’s dome of the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in high relief, provides a romantic setting to your holiday snaps. Sliema

Independence Gardens Granted, there are not many serene spots in Sliema (ironically, considering the origins of the name), but these gardens could be the next best thing. A green reprieve in one of Malta’s most hectic towns, this spot is also well served with a playground, free Wi-Fi and a kiosk if your mouth gets dry in the summer sun. Tower Road, Sliema

Sliema Promenade This 2km promenade is, probably, the island’s most popular, and it can get quite busy on weekend evenings. Stretching from Gzira to St Julian’s, this truly is the spine which holds the town together, offering up gorgeous sea views whether you’re out for your morning jog, fancy a stroll before dinner, or manage to grab a great table for an aperitif as the sun goes down.

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Bortex

LEISURE Bortex A specialist in formal men’s and women’s tailoring, Bortex, which was established in 1964 – the same year Malta became independent – is a household name on the island. It stocks high-end clothing labels, including its own international house brand, Gagliardi, as well as offering clothes hire and a bespoke made-tomeasure service for men. Level 3, Plaza Shopping Complex, Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 1466, www.bortexgroup.com). Also across Malta.

Christine X Art Gallery The arts in Malta, particularly painting, have experienced somewhat of a renaissance in recent years, as they’ve come to the attention of a wider audience. And the Christine X Gallery is testament to this, showcasing the original works of local and foreign artists with a connection to Malta, while also organising exhibitions dedicated to specific artists. Entrance is free of charge. 17, Tigné Street, Sliema (9984 4653, www.christinexart.com)

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The Point Fond Ghadir

Exiles

Lily Agius Gallery

Synonymous with the young and trendy – as it has been for decades – Exiles is a smooth rocky beach, whose snack bar and restaurant heaves with activity when the sun goes down in summer, and, particularly, at weekends. The sea is easily accessible and there’s even a dive shack should you wish to explore the reefs and underwater attractions in this part of the island.

Lilly Agius Gallery was set up in 2011 by the eponymous artist who was born and raised in London. Over the past decade it has established a reputation for championing Maltese and international fine art through exhibition openings and a focus on up-and-coming artists. Entrance to the gallery is free.

Tower Road, Sliema

Fond Ghadir Sliema offers many well-known swimming spots, such as Fond Ghadir, where rock-cut rectangular pools – referred to in Maltese as il-banjijiet – attract swimmers of all ages. Also known as Roman baths – although they most probably date back to the Victorian era – they provide a serene swim, sheltered from open sea currents. Tower Road, Sliema

L’Allée Away from the more well-known franchises, L’Allée, the brainchild of local interior designer, Pippa Toldeo, offers bespoke accessories which make a stunning addition to anyone’s collection. Standout chokers, bright cuffs and attentiongrabbing earrings are the order of the day – unique items you just don’t get on the high street.

Soap Café

54, Cathedral Street, Sliema (9929 2488, www.lilyagiusgallery.com)

The Plaza Food Hall You can travel the world without leaving this food hall, on the ground floor of The Plaza Shopping Centre, where Hawaiian, Chinese, and Peruvian food, as well as Italian specialities are all served up, quickly and in time for you to get on with the rest of the shopping. Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 3832, www.plaza-shopping.com)

The Plaza Shopping Centre

The Point Towards the tip of Tigné Point, this shopping centre is awe-inspiring, with dozens of brands spread out over four expansive floors. Clothing, accessories, shoes, electronics and health stores all compete for attention. Luckily, The Point is also home to restaurants, snack bars and cafés, which means you’re never far from refreshments. Tigné Point, Sliema (2247 0300, www.thepointmalta.com)

The first mall to open in Sliema, The Plaza Shopping Centre has been a staple on many a shopaholic’s outings for more than two decades. Today it is still the home of wellknown international brands, such as Mothercare and The Body Shop, as well as local outlets, such as Agenda Bookshop, making it a must-visit on any trip.

Soap Café

Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 3832, www.plaza-shopping.com)

65, St Dominic Street, Sliema (2788 3675, www.soapcafemalta.com)

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Free of additives, the hand-crafted soaps on sale at Soap Café are a millennial’s dream. Established by Charlene (Charly) Mercieca, who had spent years selling her handcrafted products at farmers’ markets and from home, this store also sells lotions, balms and scrubs for any skin types and ailments.

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BLACK AND BLUE PHOTOGRAPHY

Souvenirs That Don’t Suck

Teatru Salesjan Sunset Records

Solo Vinyl & Books

Sunset Records

The White Sheep

Music, vinyl culture, art, illustration, photography, subculture and underground genres are all on display at Solo Vinyl & Books, which first opened in Milan before its owners decided to move the store to Malta. And, it seems this was a wise move for the store has been embedded in the community, bringing people together by hosting book launches, workshops, festivals and gigs.

Across the globe, vinyl has seen its popularity resurface, with fetishists clamouring for new stock, and this is true even in Malta. Sunset Records aims to scratch that itch, retailing new and used records across genres – from soul to reggae, rock to disco. And, if you’re looking to buy something local, the outlet also showcases the work of Maltese bands.

If there is one word to describe this artisanal deli-café it is ‘exquisite’. Tableware and coffee-table style recipe books will whet your appetite, which can easily be satisfied by ordering some organic pasta, a rich salad or fine cheeses and cold cuts, which can all be perused at this elegant outlet.

92, Bordin Street, Msida (2133 8887, www.solovinylbooks.com)

Souvenirs That Don’t Suck For keepsakes different to the norm, this store really delivers on what it promises by selling unique T-shirts, mugs, postcards and badges with hip designs and Maltese slogans, crafted by local artists. And, with its online store you can now splash out on a memory of Malta even when you’re back home. 108, Manwel Dimech Street, Sliema (7907 2313, www.prints-of-wales.com). Also 8, St John’s Square, Valletta

57, St Pius V Street, Sliema (2133 8835)

Teatru Salesjan This stunning theatre, opened in 1908, has for more than a century been the artistic heartbeat of Sliema. Comedy shows, Shakespearean dramas and original works all have a home at this ornate community theatre, whose hectic programme of events always ensures there’s something to do at the weekend. Guze Howard Street, Sliema (7799 7000, www.tsmalta.com)

405, Rue d’Argens, Gzira (2131 5222, www.thewhitesheep.eu)

Yana’s Jewellery Make a statement with a beautiful necklace, pair of earrings or bracelet by self-taught jewellery designer Yana Azzopardi, whose reputation for hand-crafted, bespoke pieces has grown from strength to strength in recent years. And, you can get in touch with Yana herself to discuss precisely what you have in mind, guaranteeing a purchase which is unique and long-lasting. Cathedral Street, Sliema (2133 5036, www.yanasjewellery.com). Also Misrah Il-Barrieri Street, Msida

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E AT & D R I N K

THE FOTO GRAFER

INIGO TAYLOR

Busy Bee

Caffè Berry

AMERICAN

Novi Bar Home-made food, imported beers and ciders, signature cocktails and good music are the order of the day at Novi Bar, offering all-American classic cuisine such as buffalo wings, legendary tacos and, of course, the ubiquitous burger. Although, if you’re looking for something healthier, there are smoothies, juices and salads up for grabs too. 202, The Strand, Sliema (2780 2740) CAFÉS

Balance Bowl Give healthy and mouth-watering vegan cuisine a try at Balance Bowl, the brainchild of three food and well-being enthusiasts. Gluten-free and plant-based, much of their menu – with ingredients sourced through local farmers will leave you feeling clean and full of energy. 182, The Strand, Gzira (2732 0556)

Bella Sicilia Hands off those cannoli! The cosy Bella Sicilia will have you scoffing pastry after pastry, while the waft of sugar coming from the kitchen will have you dreaming of sweets for many an hour after you’ve left. Accompany your treat with a nice cup of Sicilian coffee, warmed by this place’s friendly atmosphere. 134, The Strand, Gzira (2131 1159)

Busy Bee The legendary Busy Bee has been offering traditional Maltese sweets and chocolates since the early 20th 156 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

century, and it has become one of the island’s best-loved confectioneries. Try their cannoli, the cassatella Siciliana and, when Easter comes around, their famous Maltese figolla. 30, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida (2334 4000, www.busybee.com.mt). Also Mdina Road, Mriehel

Caffè Berry Healthy, home-made snacks are on the menu at this coffee lovers’ paradise. High-end products, such as quality jams, tea blends and chocolates, are all on offer to take home and enjoy with your legs up on the sofa, but it’s the myriad coffee blends found in this cosy café which keeps guests coming back for more. St Dominic Street, Sliema (9992 3183, www.caffeberry.com)

Divini by Cuccagna This intimate coffee shop packs a punch. Its reputation for great service, delicious food, and coffee makes it the ideal spot for a shopping reprieve. Try their spirulina or beetrootbased pizza for an Italian snack with a twist – made by those who really know their savoury pies! 47, Amery Street, Sliema (2134 6703)

Dolci Peccati This Italian-run confectionery and café, situated on the hectic Sliema promenade offers more-ish Sicilian sweets, such as cassata Siciliana, zeppoli and cannoli, as well as exceptional ice-cream for those sweltering summer days. Traditional cento panini are also freshly prepared every day, staving hunger away. 268, Tower Road, Sliema (2702 3202). Also St John’s Street, Valletta

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E AT & D R I N K

The Pastry Park

Hammett’s Gastro Bar

Giorgio’s Cafeteria This fashionable café – an institution among Sliema residents and shopping afficionados – is open all day, and its central location means that there’s always a snack on hand. The varied menu includes a baker’s corner and Mediterranean specialities, as well as a selection of mouth-watering pastries to enjoy during your mid-shop coffee break.

SottoZero Sottozero – The Gelato Factory does what it says on the tin and is among the most renowned ice-cream makers in Malta. Offering a top-quality range of more than 115 inventive and traditional ice-cream flavours, this ice-cream mecca can also cater to those with food intolerances. The Strand, Sliema (2701 9339, www.sottozerofactory.com). Also Spring Street, Bugibba

17, Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2134 2456) FUSION

Mint No visit to Sliema is ever complete without a stop at Mint, which serves healthy savoury and sweet meals to the tired and hungry. Situated a stone’s throw from the Sliema promenade, this café offers vegan and healthy options, but it’s the mouth-watering chocolate brownies and baked cheesecakes which pull in brisk trade. 30/39, Tower Road, Sliema (2133 7177, www.mintmalta.com)

Hammett’s Gastro Bar Travel the world while comfortably seated in the ornate surroundings of Hammett’s Gastro Bar, a trendy eatery and watering hole built upon the shareable food concept. The cocktail menu offers up firm favourites, but what really distinguishes this place are the original mixes such as the Maltese Islands Ice Tea and the Kyoto Flower, featuring hibiscus infused gin, sake, and bergamot purée. Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2134 1116, www.hammettsgastrobar.com)

The Pastry Park The Pastry Park offers so much more than just delicious confections and savoury snacks – though there’s plenty of these up for grabs, with its signature eclairs reaching legendary status. Its drinks menu, offering Maltese craft beers and premium whiskies, does not leave much to be desired. 15, Ghar il-Lembi Street, Sliema (2708 5059)

MedAsia Sushi, salads and traditional dishes from Japan, Thailand, China and the Mediterranean are all served up at this popular eatery which also boasts a lively outdoor terrace and a comfortable indoor dining area. And, as the sun goes down, MedAsia transforms into a clubby space, with a cocktail menu to compete with the very best. 90, The Strand, Sliema (2133 3221, www.medasia.com.mt) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 157

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Shakinah

Ali Baba

TemptAsian The panoramic views of Sliema and Valletta, which can be enjoyed from this elegant rooftop restaurant, are just part of the reason why the eatery enjoys immense popularity. Indeed, its array of tantalising Asian fusion dishes, inspired by the distinctive flavours of China, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam and India – among many more – are truly inventive. The Palace, High Street, Sliema (2133 3444, www.temptasianmalta.com)

Ta’ Kris A cosy, rustic feel permeates this intimate eatery in the backstreets of Sliema’s popular shopping streets. Here, founder and chef Kris offers an authentic Maltese dining experience, set within one of Sliema’s oldest bakeries, combining hearty and traditional local dishes with good value and friendly service. 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema (2133 7367, www.takrisrestaurant.com) MEDITERRANEAN

INDIAN

Shakinah

Ali Baba

Offering myriad spaces – from the elegant Kashmir Bar, to the stylish Goa Private Dining Suite, or the outdoor garden area – Shakinah serves up Indian cuisine in stunning surroundings. There’s an à la carte and a vegan menu, boasting firm favourites such as Chicken Pakora or Vegetable Jalfrazi, as well as more exquisite dishes.

Exceptional flavoured meats, sticky desserts and a wine list to rival the best in the business, Ali Baba is islandfamous for its authentic Lebanese and North African cuisines. First opened in 1987 by Abdul Rahman Harb, the renowned eatery is now run by Abdul’s son Hany, who refurbished the place, and beefed up its menu to offer a delectable experience many return to time after time.

11, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2752 2322, www.shakinahmalta.com)

9, Ponsomby Street, Gzira (2134 0119, www.hanyharb.com)

MALTESE

Briju With a focus on local ingredients and recipes – just like mama used to make them, but better – Briju was recently commended by the Michelin Guide for its passion towards sustainability. And, indeed, the ethical perspective taken by its chefs not only ensures treats for its patrons but contributes to the local economy too. Imsida Road, Gzira (2134 1050)

Baba by Hany Harb If you’re craving succulent street food, you need to make a beeline for Baba by Hany Harb – an offshoot of the popular Ali Baba – serving hearty meals which will have your mouth watering for days afterwards at the thought of the experience. Situated up the road from its sister outlet, this new kid on the block offers a menu featuring some of the older brother’s most popular snacks, as well as fresh additions such as lamb burger, spit-roasted corn-fed chicken and – to wash it all down – home-made lemonade. 140, Fleet Street, Gzira (2134 3431, www.baba.hanyharb.com)

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The Black Egg

Emma’s Kitchen

The Black Egg

Fernandõ Gastrotheque

If brunch is your thing, you’ll be delighted with this discovery: The Black Egg in Ta’ Xbiex is perfect for celebrations or lazy weekends during which your only priority is to kick back and relax. Their signature dish consists of a black poached egg, with crushed avocado and chilli on a crusted sourdough and served with pomegranate; you can complement this feast with a Bellini or a Mimosa to start your day off in style.

The devil is in the detail at this stunning establishment, which offers a wide selection of intricate dishes, such as aged carnaroli rice with jamón broth, gamberi rossi and jamón de Bellota, and the Armagnac duck breast, accompanied by red cabbage, crispy duck skin granola and lavender. Its rainbow tapas and impressive wine selection should also win it some applauds. 6, Tigné Street, Sliema (7922 2023)

Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (9908 0878, www.theblackegg.com.mt)

The Chophouse This restaurant in Tigné, overlooking the spectacular Valletta skyline, boasts Malta’s largest charcoal grill and a menu all meat lovers will drool over. From Argentinian rib-eye to the mouth-watering Chateaubriand, The Chophouse offers a spate of the most tender cuts, grilled to perfection. And, to complement the meat-focused menu, which also offers meat alternatives like fresh fish, there is also an impressive cellar with a wide selection of wines and whiskies. Tigné Point, Sliema (2060 3355, www.chophouse.com.mt)

Emma’s Kitchen Emma’s Kitchen combines trendy minimalist décor with tasty, genuine food. The brainchild of architect and foodie Emma Warrington, its ramen dishes have become popular with all those in-the-know, as have this delightful eatery’s brunches. 1, Naxxar Road, San Gwann (2099 1184, www.emmaskitchen.com.mt)

Fresco’s Unpretentious, but serving up good solid fare, Freco’s on the Sliema promenade offers indoor and outdoor seating, providing space for a glass of wine and a view on a stunning summer evening. The menu includes Maltese traditional dishes as well as more-ish desserts, although it’s the Sicilian style-pizza which has patrons returning. Tower Road, Sliema (2734 4763, www.frescosmalta.com)

Il-Gabbana This much-loved café has been an institution on the busy Sliema promenade since it opened in 1956. Generations of Maltese have frequented the spot to have a drink, a bite to eat or simply to catch up with old friends and family. It really is the Sliema local ‘where everyone knows your name’. Tower Road, Sliema (2701 1527, www.ilgabbana.com)

Kebab Ji Ideal for an on-the-go meal, Kebab Ji is a traditional, casual Lebanese eatery overlooking the Sliema seafront, where the chefs serve up a spate of Middle Eastern specialities and vegetarian dishes. Glorious, jewelled salads, and succulent meats are the order of the day. 132 A, Tower Road, Sliema (2782 7562). Also Paceville Street, St Julian’s

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Pure Living

Trattoria Cardini

La Cuccagna

Sea Salt

The pizza is nothing short of legendary at this quaint, rustic eatery in the heart of Sliema. Established almost 30 years ago, La Cuccagna is family-run, and the owners really make you feel at home with their warm hospitality, quick service and ready smiles. Vegan and gluten-free options are also available.

Big fish platters are the order of the day at Sea Salt, a take-away joint focused on providing quality seafood at reasonable prices. An online menu allows for quick and easy decisions, though the octopus burger – featuring crispy octopus and chorizo on tomato relish, with an octopus reduction dressing in a brioche bun – might make it an easy choice at any rate.

47, Amery Street, Sliema (2134 6703, www.cuccagnamalta.com)

43 Rudolph Street, Sliema (2760 3343)

Pasta & Co Established as recently as 2017, this Italian eatery focuses on creating the best artisanal pasta dishes this side of the island. The menu includes classics such as spaghetti à la Norma, and rigatoni cacio e pepe, but there are also dishes with a little bit of a twist, including strozzapreti with mussels and ravioli filled with local rabbit. Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2707 2245)

Ta’ Xbiex Waterpolo Club This stylish eatery offers a menu combining local and Sicilian influences, with a selection of delectable starters, salads, burgers, pastas, pizzas, meat and fish dishes. It gets busy at the weekend – particularly Sunday lunch – but its striking views of the Grand Harbour and Valletta are worth jostling for a table. Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2733 0144, www.taxbiexwaterpoloclub.com)

Pure Living Pure offers a wide selection of vegan and raw foods, such as its signature vegan hot dog and halloumi burger, and is popular with juicing and health food enthusiasts. Indulge in a delicious raw dessert or a fresh juice and superfood smoothie for a little bit of a healthier boost. Windsor Street, Sliema (9932 0003, www.pure.com.mt)

Tiffany’s Bistro Tiffany’s Bistro, on the trendy Tigné seafront area, offers a menu of classic dishes with a twist, with choices ideal for breakfast, lunch, dinner or brunch. It’s a perfect pit stop for an invigorating coffee, or a bite to eat before heading off to finish the shopping. Tigné Seafront, Sliema (9958 6280)

The Seafood Market Grill by Adam’s Fish Shop Adam’s Fish Shop in Mosta has, for years, been the go-to fishmonger for gourmet fish dishes, prepared by its owner, Adam, and his team, then cooked at home. Now, Adam has opened a seafood market grill to showcase his imaginative creations. Try the aquarello risotto with lobster and red prawns – a house speciality – for a filling, tasty bite. Msida Road, Gzira (9955 5531)

Trattoria Cardini Named after Cesare Cardini – the man who invented the Caesar Salad – Trattoria Cardini offers patrons delicious food made from locally-sourced and fresh ingredients. Its excellent service and seafront location have made it popular with locals and tourists alike. Guests are entitled to free parking at the nearby multi-storey car park. 132A, Tower Road, Sliema (2133 2324, www.cardini.com.mt)

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E AT & D R I N K

Avotaco

The Brew

Vecchia Napoli

Good Thaimes

One of several outlets across the island, Vecchia Napoli is a firm favourite with families. Its tasty pizzas, baked in a wood-burning oven and created by pizzaioli who have been trained in Italy, use ingredients imported from Naples.

Famous for its Thai food, this casual, laid-back hangout is a cross between a pub, a football club and a thrift shop. And, as well as a selection of gin-based cocktails, Good Thaimes is known for having one of the largest selections of beers in Malta, with more than 180 types available.

255, Tower Road, Sliema (2134 3434, www.vecchianapoli.com). Also across Malta

Gzira Road, Gzira (2756 0613)

MEXICAN

It doesn’t get much more easy-going than Paradise Exiles, an immensely popular beach bar boasting sun, sea and a laid-back haven, perfect for long summer days. The atmosphere is chill – aided by the great music pumping from its system – while the drinks are as refreshing as a dip in the Med.

Avotaco Looking for a taste of Mexico in Malta? A homage to cosmopolitanism, this popular take-away joint started out as a food truck on the Gzira seafront and evolved into an eatery serving a menu of meat-topped nachos, tacos, burritos and quesadillas, as well as vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Abate Rigord Street, Ta’ Xbiex (2732 0539, www.eatavotaco.com). Also Commerce Street, Mriehel BARS

The Brew Craft beers have become all the rage in Malta over the past few years. The Brew has led the pack in production, but also in experience through this outlet which also serves a menu of delicious dishes – such as the signature one-metre ribs cooked in home-crafted honey beer – a perfect accompaniment to this spot’s thirst-quenching hops. 74, The Strand, Sliema (2703 0398, www.thebrew.com.mt) 162 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Paradise Exiles

Tower Road, Sliema

Prosciutteria Not for the carb-haters, Prosciutteria offers up a spate of top-notch pizzas, topped with excellent-quality ingredients, which are not for the faint-hearted. They are the perfect accompaniment to their wide array of ales and beers brought in from across the globe. 188, The Strand, Sliema (2133 6446)

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SLIEMA & AROUND

SLEEP

Urban Valley Resort & Spa

The Waterfront Hotel

AX The Palace Malta

RENE ROSSIGNAUD

AX The Palace Malta

Two Pillows Boutique Hostel

Situated in the centre of town, The Palace boasts spacious rooms, including six designer suites, known as The AX Designer Suite Collection, that are individually designed around innovative themes. Its several in-house bars, restaurants and common areas are elegant, and the hotel even features an indulgent spa.

Equipped with air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi in every room, Two Pillows is a step above the traditional hostel experience, with accommodation options ranging from comfortable studio apartments to budget-focused dorm rooms. The common areas, where guests can socialise, however, are what attract the young and the young at heart to this well-converted townhouse.

High Street, Sliema (2133 3444, www.thepalacemalta.com)

AX Palazzo Capua Built over 200 years ago originally for nobility, Palazzo Capua is today a romantic place to stay. It offers five distinctive suites named after its past residents, and shares a range of facilities and services with its neighbours and sisters, AX The Palace and AX The Victoria Hotel. Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Sliema (2133 4711, www.palazzocapuamalta.com)

AX The Victoria Hotel In one of the quieter areas of Sliema, the four-star Victoria Hotel is a great launch pad for your exploration of the Maltese islands. Well-connected, it also affords guests fully equipped rooms, popular high-end restaurants and function rooms, and special spa and wellness packages. Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Sliema (2133 4711, www.victoriahotel.com)

49, St Pius V Street, Sliema (2131 7070, www.twopillowsmalta.com)

Urban Valley Resort & Spa A relatively new addition to Malta’s hotel repertoire, the Urban Valley Resort & Spa boasts a serene setting and a range of facilities within which to unwind, including two outdoor pools and tennis courts, a Turkish bath, sauna and gym. And, during the warmer months you can also enjoy a walk within the Wied Ghollieqa Nature Reserve, a stone’s throw away. Wied Ghollieqa Street, Kappara (2138 5926, www.urbanvalleyresort.com)

The Waterfront Hotel A short walk away from Sliema’s Ferries, this seafront hotel offers stunning views of the Sliema Creek, Manoel Island and Valletta’s iconic skyline. The comfortable rooms and friendly service make it ideal for solo travellers or larger families, while its location – close to the ferry departure point for the capital – makes it convenient too. The Strand, Sliema (2090 6899, www.waterfronthotelmalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 163

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Mdina, Rabat & Around

A wander through the streets of Mdina will tell you lots about its fame as the so-called Silent City. While generally filled with awestruck visitors marvelling at its many architectural gems, the city’s ancient streets remain quiet and calm, enthralling anyone who sets foot inside its high walls.

alta’s former capital city, Mdina, which was known as Melita back in Roman times – meaning honey – was the site of the Roman governor’s palace. Later, around 870AD, at the start of the islands’ Arab rule, Mdina was given the name it goes by today, derived from the Arabic word medina, which means town or city. The thick, protective walls that shield the city date back to this period. Mdina surrendered to Roger I of Sicily after a short siege in 1091. In 1530, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V granted the Maltese islands to the Knights of the Order of St John, who lost Rhodes to the Ottomans in 1522. Vittoriosa, one of the Three Cities in Malta’s south-eastern region, became the administrative centre of the island and Mdina’s population soon started to wane as a result. Many of the city’s residents first moved to Vittoriosa, and later to the new capital city, Valletta.

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Following a devastating earthquake in 1693, Mdina suffered extensive damage and many of its magnificent buildings, including the cathedral, were either damaged or destroyed. However, a new Baroque-style cathedral, designed by acclaimed Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà was soon built in the old one’s stead, which went on to influence the architectural style of the rest of the rebuilt city.

TRE ET FEJ

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Between 1723 and 1728, during the reign of Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, the damaged fortifications were remodelled and repaired. De Vilhena also left his mark on the city’s street plan, and new grand buildings and palaces were built during his reign, including the Vilhena Palace (which today houses the Museum of Natural History) and the Banca Giuratale (or Municipal Palace).

Rabat, Mdina and Mtarfa, consider the trackless train tour which departs from a terminus next to the Domus Romana, offering a glimpse of the neighbouring lush countryside. Further towards the coast, the rugged Dingli Cliffs and the wooded area of Buskett Gardens a few kilometres up the road are also worth a visit. For a more urban experience, head towards the bustling city of Mosta in the centre of Malta, home to the third largest dome in Europe that crowns its imposing church. And while largely residential, the nearby villages of Naxxar, Attard, Lija and Balzan are full of their own hidden charms, including some stunning ancient buildings and exquisite eateries.

While a visit to Mdina is a must, don’t overlook the city’s ancient suburb of Rabat, which boasts its own fair share of attractions, including the Domus Romana, various catacomb complexes, marvellous churches, as well as a number of high-quality restaurants and shops. Moreover, Mdina and Rabat are surrounded by untouched, rural areas. For a picturesque tour of

PLACES OF INTEREST 8 Domus Romana

Bastion Square

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Catacombs & Museum

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Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum

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SARAH BOUHLEL

VIEWINGMALTA.COM/CLIVE VELLA

M D I N A , R A B AT & A R O U N D

Church of St Dominic & Priory VIEWINGMALTA.COM/MARIO GALEA

Carmelite Priory Museum

Domus Romana

H E R I TA G E Carmelite Priory Museum

Church of St Dominic & Priory

One of Malta’s only monasteries to open its doors to visitors, the Carmelite Church and Priory Museum offers tours of the grounds with a resident friar as a guide. The 17th century building boasts several highlights, including a beautiful courtyard, a frescoed refectory and notable artworks.

The Church of St Dominic, dating back to the 16th century, houses several treasures, among them a beautiful marble statue of the Virgin Mary. The priory, which was used as a filming location for Game of Thrones, has a large courtyard with a picturesque garden and fountains.

Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4524, www.carmelitepriory.org)

Casa Bernard This mid-16th century palazzo might look like a museum, but serves as a private home for Josette and Georges Magri, who lovingly restored the building and adorned it with their extensive collection of furniture, paintings and objets d’art. The couple give guided tours of the house on the hour.

Domus Romana

St Dominic Square, Rabat (2145 4592)

Previously the residence of a wealthy Roman aristocrat, this ancient townhouse, which is now a museum, houses intricate mosaic floors and several precious Roman remains which have survived for centuries, offering visitors a glimpse of what daily life was like during this bygone era.

Church of Ta’ Giezu

Museum Esplanade, Rabat (2145 4125, www.heritagemalta.org)

The Church of the Nativity of Our Lady, also known as Ta’ Giezu, was built in 1500, making it one of the oldest churches in Malta. Its plain façade belies a lavish interior which suffered significant damage in 2017 after its roof collapsed but has since been expertly restored. St Joseph Street, Rabat (2145 4594)

46, St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 1888, www.casabernard.eu) 166 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Mdina Cathedral Museum This former seminary houses a fine collection of treasures salvaged from the medieval SicoloNorman cathedral destroyed by an earthquake in 1693, including embossed choir books and impressive woodcuts by Albrecht Dürer. It is the first museum in Malta to offer dedicated services for visitors with autism. Archbishop Square, Mdina (2145 4697, www.metropolitanchapter.com)

ALAN CARVILLE

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St Paul’s Catacombs St Paul’s Catacombs, a complex of underground Roman cemeteries, are the earliest and largest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta, and were used for pagan, Jewish and Christian burials between the 4th and 8th centuries. Audio guides are available in English. St Agatha Street, Rabat (2145 4562, www.heritagemalta.org)

Villa Bologna Palazzo Parisio & Gardens

The Metropolitan Cathedral of St Paul Dominating the city’s main square, this Baroque cathedral was designed by celebrated Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà and is famous for an apse mural of The Shipwreck of St Paul, painted by Mattia Preti’s bottega assistants. Among the many notable artefacts inside is a baptismal font, dating back to 1495.

Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum Palazzo Falson, Mdina’s secondoldest building, was once home to well-travelled artist, scholar and philanthropist Captain Olof Frederick Gollcher. Since 2001, it has been restored to its former glory and houses an exceptional array of paintings, manuscripts, jewellery and other artefacts.

St Paul Square, Mdina (2145 4136)

Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4512, www.palazzofalson.com)

Mosta Church

Palazzo Parisio & Gardens

Towering over the square is Mosta Church, which has the third-largest unsupported dome in Europe. During World War II, a bomb pierced the dome during mass, but didn’t explode. There were no casualties, and a replica of the bomb with the caption ‘Il-Miraklu Tal-Bomba (The Miracle of The Bomb), April 9, 1942’ remains on display. Rotunda Square, Mosta (2143 3826)

Museum of Natural History Housed within the imposing Vilhena Palace, this museum showcases Malta’s natural biodiversity and environmental science through a collection of over one million specimens, dioramas showcasing local habitats, and display areas covering topics ranging from paleontology to human evolution. Vilhena Palace, St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 5951, www.heritagemalta.org)

Termed a ‘miniature Versailles’, the privately-owned, family-run Palazzo Parisio, which was built by Grand Master Manuel de Vilhena in the 1730s and later embellished by Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna, boasts opulent interiors and stunning Baroque gardens, where you can enjoy elegant afternoon tea.

The magnificent, 18th century Villa Bologna is lovely for a roam around, boasting Baroque and Neoclassical features, and sprawling gardens that include centuries-old citrus orchards and gorgeous fountains. Visit the gift shop for a selection of locally made souvenirs and the adjacent popular bistro. 30, St Anthony Street, Attard (9953 7925, www.villabologna.com)

Wignacourt Museum Complex Comprised of St Paul’s Grotto, catacombs, World War II shelters and the Wignacourt Museum, there’s lots to explore here. The main exhibition space within the museum has an impressive gallery with works by Mattia Preti, Antoine Favray, Francesco Zahra and other Maltese and European artists. For a snack or light meal, visit the café located in the garden. Parish Square, College Street, Rabat (2749 4905, www.wignacourtmuseum.com)

29, Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com)

St Agatha’s Crypt, Catacombs & Museum Learn about these extensive and well-preserved underground cemeteries, which date back to the early days of Christianity in Malta, with the optional help of a guide. Among the many features to discover are the crypt with an altar carved out of rock and some of the oldest frescoes on the island. St Agatha Street, Rabat (2145 4503, www.stagathamalta.com)

Villa Bologna

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Meridiana Wine Estate

San Anton Gardens

AT T R A C T I O N S Bastion Square Villegaignon Street, Mdina’s pictureperfect and palace-lined street, comes to an end at Bastion Square, just behind the ramparts of the fortifications, which has beautiful Baroque buildings on one side and magnificent panoramic views of Malta extending as far as Valletta on the other. Mdina

Buskett Gardens Planted by the Knights of St John as a hunting reserve, the lush Buskett Gardens make up one of few woodland areas in Malta, popular for picnics and leisurely walks. On the edge of the gardens stands the 16th-century Verdala Palace, which is now the summer residence of the President of Malta. Siggiewi

Dingli Cliffs Towering at 253m above sea level, the Dingli Cliffs are the highest point of the Maltese islands. Take the time to soak in breath-taking views of the terraced fields below, vast open sea, and Filfla, the small uninhabited island you’ll spot just across the deep water. Dingli

The Limestone Heritage, Park & Gardens

The Limestone Heritage, Park & Gardens Step back in time to understand Malta’s long-standing history with limestone at this family-run attraction in the village of Siggiewi, which features stone sculpting demonstrations and an animal park ideal for younger visitors. Specialised group events, such as olive tasting and limoncello making, may also be organised. Mons M Azzopardi Street, Siggiewi (2146 4931, www.limestoneheritage.com)

Mdina Dungeons Museum Situated in the former prison beneath Vilhena Palace, this gruesome attraction portrays the dark side of Maltese history, including torture methods used during the time of the Inquisition, with over 75 full-size figures in period clothes ranging from Roman times to the French occupation. St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 0267, www.dungeonsmalta.com)

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Meridiana Wine Estate The Meridiana Wine Estate is situated just below Mdina and produces many highquality local wines, which you can savour on the panoramic terraces overlooking the vineyard through an organised tour of the estate, which also includes a visit to the fermentation hall and underground cellar. Attard (2141 5301, www.meridiana.com.mt)

San Anton Gardens San Anton Gardens, the grounds that surround San Anton Palace – which serves as the residence of the President of Malta – are open to the public and make for a picturesque and peaceful stroll when the weather is mild. They’re an idyllic retreat for nature lovers. San Anton Palace, Attard (2148 4662)

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Sef Farrugia

Camilleriparismode Gianpula Village

LEISURE Camilleriparismode The flagship store of this longstanding family business – over a century old – offers a wide range of fine and upscale fabrics, furniture, fashion accessories and decorative objects for the home. With another store in Sliema, it’s well worth a visit if you’re after a unique find to take back with you. 54/56, St Catherine Street, Rabat (2010 2030, www.camilleriparismode.com)

Gianpula Village This extensive clubbing complex, located in the midst of Rabat’s countryside, is one of the most popular party venues in Malta with an impressive track record of hosting international artists, as well as regular parties and events. While currently closed due to COVID-19 restrictions, keep an eye out for a future opening date. Rabat (2145 0238, www.gianpula.club)

Sef Farrugia With its eye-catching yellow façade, this shop houses Maltese designer Sef Farrugia’s collection of accessories, homeware and soft furnishings, including silk scarves, bowties, cushions and eye masks in her distinctive, self-designed prints, using a range of silk, satin and organic cotton fabrics.

Stephanie Borg

St Augustine Street, Rabat (www.seffarrugia.com)

Stephanie Borg A self-taught artist and pattern designer, Stephanie Borg’s studio boutique is brimming with objects in her colourful designs inspired by Maltese culture and architecture. From mugs and coasters to wall art and home décor, you’re unlikely to leave empty-handed. Check the site for opening hours. 33, St Catherine Street, Rabat (9916 1469, www.stephanieborg.com)

Uno Malta This open-air clubbing venue – which is also currently closed due to COVID-19 restrictions but will likely re-open once restrictions are lifted – has been a crowd-puller for years, hosting local as well as top international DJs, spinning everything from house music to commercial house and R&B. Ta’ Qali Crafts Village (2141 5241)

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ALAN CARVILLE

E AT & D R I N K

Carolina’s Petit Café

Ta’ Doni

CAFÉS

Café Santa Lucia Since 1975, this low-key café has been serving reputable pastries, sweets, chocolates, sandwiches and snacks. It’s perfect for a quick bite to eat and a refreshing drink in a casual atmosphere. We highly recommend anything from their delectable selection of sweets. 29, Main Street, Rabat (2145 1852, www.cafesantalucia.com). Also Old Railway Track, Attard

Carolina’s Petit Café Setting foot inside this café is just like stepping into a doll house. Serving a selection of light snacks and tea in overwhelmingly pink and floral surroundings, it’s ideal for a girly outing, a relaxed baby shower or a quiet pit stop in the village core. 79/80, Bertu Fenech Square, Balzan (2144 8059)

Crystal Palace Known locally as is-Serkin, this age-old institution attracts people from all over the island for its famed pastizzi – the delicious puff pastry snack with a cheese, pea or anchovy filling. For just a handful of change, you can bag yourself a couple of these sinful snacks at all hours of the day. St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 3323)

Fontanella Tea Garden A visit to Mdina wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Fontanella – a favourite among locals and visitors for years. Although mostly renowned for its cakes, particularly the rich chocolate cake, it also serves a selection of snacks. Bookings are recommended for the adjoining wine bar, Vinum. 1, Bastion Square, Mdina (2145 4264, www.fontanellateagarden.com) 172 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Il-Baxa Café & Snack Bar With an ever-changing menu, Il-Baxa serves up generous portions of warm and filling dishes, from pasta to traditional Maltese rabbit, tasty ftira (flat bread) options, and full English breakfast on Sunday. 41, Main Street, Rabat (7755 1552)

Ta’ Doni This cute and cosy café is a great spot for a taste of flavourful Maltese food. It offers mouth-watering snacks, such as the traditional ftira biz-zejt (unleavened bread with a mix of summery ingredients), as well as seasonal treats and artisanal products to take home. 73, St Paul Street, Rabat (2761 5270) FRENCH

De Mondion Restaurant One of Malta’s few, one-Michelin star restaurants, the elegant de Mondion offers excellent service, top-notch food quality and presentation, and an extensive wine list. Diners can choose between the à la carte and tasting menus and, if available, opt for the terrace on the Mdina bastions for stunning views. The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.demondion.com)

The Lord Nelson The Lord Nelson, located within a quaint, traditional townhouse, combines a lovely atmosphere with great service and perfectly presented, fine-dining style dishes that fuse elements of French cuisine with a refreshing, modern twist. 280, Main Street, Mosta (2143 2590, www.thelordnelsonrestaurant.com)

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Agata Restaurant

Barbajean

MALTESE

Diar il-Bniet This genuine field-to-fork restaurant offers an authentic local agritourism experience. The largely Maltese menu is dictated by the fresh produce grown in the family-run fields nearby, which is also used to make seasonal sweets, jams, wines and oils that can be bought from this charming eatery. Main Street, Dingli (2762 0727, www.diarilbniet.com)

Ta’ Marija One of Malta’s best-known local cuisine restaurants, Ta’ Marija, which has been hosting patrons for decades, is renowned for its extensive menu of lunch and dinner à la carte and buffet options. The family-run eatery also hosts lively folklore-themed dinner shows every Friday night. Constitution Street, Mosta (2143 4444, www.tamarija.com) MEDITERRANEAN

Agata Restaurant This new eatery, located within a traditional house in Rabat’s historic hub, serves an array of pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven, as well as pasta dishes and burgers, and houses its very own Ben & Jerry’s outlet. Alternatively, grab a take-away and enjoy it in the beautiful Howard Gardens or Mdina ditch across the road. St Paul Street, Rabat (2790 0117)

Bacchus Set within a medieval building, Bacchus has been offering quality Mediterranean dishes to patrons for over 40 years. Its plates are beautifully presented and delicious, and while the vaulted interior is cosy in winter, pay a visit to the garden overlooking the bastion walls if the sun is out. 1, Inguanez Street, Mdina (2145 4981, www.bacchus.com.mt)

Bahia Housed in a 200-year-old restored townhouse in the charming village of Lija – with imminent plans to move to the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa in Attard – Bahia is a chic bistro with a frequently changing menu. While it only features a handful of dishes, the precision and the respect shown to the ingredients should satisfy even the most critical foodies and have earned it a Michelin star in 2021. 75, Preziosi Street, Lija (9999 1270, www.bahia.com.mt)

Barbajean With its terrazzo tables and chic green décor, Barbajean, in the picturesque village of Dingli, is a looker, but also delivers the goods, crafted by the talented hands of chef patron, Jean Pierre Dingli, who expertly presents a modern Mediterranean menu and cocktails in lovely art deco surroundings. 6, Frenc Abela Square c/w Parish Street, Dingli (2756 0308, www.barbajean.com)

Bottegin Palazzo Xara Within this stately palazzo, which is also the official seat of the L’Isle Adam Band Club, Bottegin Palazzo Xara is a real gem. Expect an extensive menu filled with hearty and well-priced dishes, as well as set menus, buffet menus and afternoon tea in a stunning setting. 19, St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 4538, www.bottegin.com.mt)

Coogi’s Restaurant & Tea Garden Housed in a lovingly-restored ancient townhouse full of its original features, the charming Coogi’s serves a variety of sharing platters, pasta dishes, pizzas, as well as burgers, seafood and meat options in a welcoming atmosphere. A variety of set menus is also available. 5, St Agatha’s Esplanade, Mdina (2145 9987, www.coogis.co) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 173

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Grotto Tavern

Luna – The Restaurant at Palazzo Parisio

Da Luigi

Il-Bitha ta’ Doni

A stone’s throw away from Mdina, this family-run eatery led by third-generation baker, Louis, offers superb Mediterranean cuisine. The menu features revived traditional recipes using seasonal and carefully-sourced local ingredients, complemented by an extensive wine list.

Il-Bitha ta’ Doni, which is nestled within the Santa Marija ta’ Doni Church complex it forms part of, serves an intriguing menu inspired by a variety of Mediterranean cuisines. Expect delicious pasta, fresh fish and meat dishes, including local options, prepared using locally-produced ingredients.

Gilormu Dingli Street, Rabat (2145 0123, www.daluigimalta.com)

73, St Paul Street, Rabat (2765 5100, www.bithatadoni.com)

The Fork & Cork Combining his passion for food and wine, chef Carl Zahra serves a varied à la carte menu of tempting Mediterranean dishes, as well as seasonal specials and a selection of fine platters. The menu changes regularly, so you never know what to expect, except fantastic flavour. Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (7904 7043, www.forkandcork.com.mt)

The Golden Fork Since 2019, founder and chef Letizia Vella has been delighting patrons with her remarkable dishes, prepared with the freshest locally-sourced ingredients. Expect surprising twists and delectable flavours at this fine-dining eatery, with equally stellar food presentation and service. 13, Main Street, Attard (9971 1273, www.thegoldenfork.com.mt)

Grotto Tavern When a restaurant is housed within a 2,000-year old cave, you can expect it to be interesting. At the Grotto Tavern, the young and dynamic team aims to bring classic Mediterranean food into the modern era, with a menu of fresh and highly original dishes, including a vegetarian selection. 9, 10, 12, St Paul Square, Rabat (2145 3258, www.grottotavern.net)

L’Agape Inspired by the Italian osteria concept, the elegant L’Agape eatery delivers a concise but flavourful menu crafted using only the freshest ingredients for a host of Mediterranean dishes. The menu changes frequently, and the homemade desserts come highly recommended. St Catald Square, Rabat (7945 5438, www.lagapemalta.com)

Luna – The Restaurant at Palazzo Parisio Renowned for lunch and traditional English afternoon tea, Luna, located within the splendid 18th-century Palazzo Parisio is also a delightful spot for an elegant breakfast and fine dinner. Expect an all-around indulgent experience in memorable surroundings. Table reservation is recommended. Palazzo Parisio & Gardens, 29, Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com)

The Medina Restaurant Set within a restored medieval house just off Mdina’s Cathedral Square, the architectural charm, pretty internal courtyard and classic garden render The Medina Restaurant a delightful eatery, serving a quality menu that promises flavourful and honest Mediterranean food. 7, Holy Cross Street, Mdina (2145 0560, www.medinarestaurantmalta.com)

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TONIO LOMBARDI

E AT & D R I N K

Palazzo Castelletti

Palazzo Castelletti Palazzo Castelletti offers high-quality service within a historical palazzo, blending contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with French influences, while making use of goodquality Maltese produce in a creative and innovative way. The afternoon high tea is also a real treat. 62, St Paul Street, Rabat (9910 9911, www.palazzocastelletti.com)

Root 81 Located on the Saqqajja Steps, this charming eatery has a warm and friendly ambience, with excellent service and an exquisite, well-priced menu, crafted by chef patron Robert Cassar, that changes seasonally. Daily specials are also available, depending on what’s fresh. 21, Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (7949 2083)

Townhouse No. 3 With a focus on local and fresh ingredients, chef patron Malcolm Bartolo prepares dishes that are rooted in simplicity and flavour, inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. You’ll love the charming location of this eatery too – tucked away in a narrow street, it’s brimming with character. 3/4, Republic Street, Rabat (7900 4123, www.townhouseno3.com)

Vinaccia Also known as La Casa Della Grappa, the fragrant Italian beverage is one of the cornerstones of Vinaccia, run by chef patron Marco Fenech and his brother, wine specialist Mario. Regional Italian cuisine forms the basis of the menu, 176 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Rickshaw

along with a vast range of wine and grappa for patrons to enjoy. 31, Hospital Street, Rabat (9942 9078) ORIENTAL

Rickshaw Located within the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, Rickshaw is one of the longest-standing oriental restaurants on the island with a loyal following. It isn’t hard to see why when you peruse the menu, which features a wide range of scrumptious dishes from across the Far East. Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 0301) BARS

Don Mesquita One of few wine bars in Mdina, Don Mesquita is the perfect place to relax while enjoying a selection of well-priced food, including a selection of platters, within a rustic setting. It also doubles as a café during the day, and boasts an enviable location in the quiet square. 5A, Mesquita Square, Mdina (2702 6640)

Tat-Tarag Wine Bar Situated right next to the recently restored Casino Notabile (cultural centre), Tat-Tarag Wine Bar offers a wide variety of wines and spirits, as well as selection of platters to share and hearty dishes. Try and grab an outdoor table on the steps to take in the lush countryside views. 25, Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (9942 7404)

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BRIAN GRECH

SLEEP

BRIAN GRECH

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux

Quaint Boutique Hotel

Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa A truly luxurious place to stay on the outskirts of the charming, central village of Attard, the classically elegant Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa offers great facilities, including a brand-new lavish spa, large swimming pool, tennis courts, landscaped gardens and the highlyrecommended Rickshaw Restaurant.

Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa

De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 0301, www.corinthia.com/palace)

Quaint Boutique Hotel Located on one of the prettiest streets in Rabat, this modern, stylish and cosy boutique hotel is within easy walking distance of anything in the Rabat and Mdina area. The property features 12 rooms, a restaurant where breakfast is served, as well as a spacious terrace. Republic Street, Rabat (2210 8800, www.quainthotelsgozo.com)

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux Once home to a noble family, this 17th-century palazzo now houses an exquisite, elegant Relais & Châteaux hotel with 17 individually designed, luxurious guest rooms. Facilities include a gym, sauna and pool, as well as four diverse restaurants, including the one-Michelin star de Mondion. Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.xarapalace.com.mt) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 177

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Mellieha, Bugibba & Around As you venture towards the northern part of Malta, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re on a different island entirely – the pace is slower, the landscape greener, and it offers the largest number of gorgeous beaches in one area within this archipelago.

mong the major attractions here are undoubtedly the coastline and the clear waters that surround this part of the island. Whether you’re after a shallow sandy stretch, a hard-to-reach but scenic spot or a dose of water sports, the options are endless – and the pristine countryside, interesting attractions and excellent restaurants make this part of Malta a must-visit. While the northern town of Bugibba may look busy, over-populated and over-developed, it has many attractive qualities too and certainly draws the crowds for its beaches, pubs, bars, restaurants, nightlife spots and ice-cream parlours, as well as a lovely promenade to explore. The smaller town of Qawra, meanwhile, boasts the biggest landmark in this area, the Malta National Aquarium which is home to a

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remarkable collection of sharks, stingrays, eels and several other stunning sea creatures. While it is busy too, Qawra does have a quieter side, and is known for the peaceful Salini National Park, as well as its long promenade for walks by the sea. Further north is where the pace really slows, and the landscape is characterised by stretches of golden sand, lush and scenic countryside, and some of the island’s top diving sites. Bugibba’s promenade merges with that of its more tranquil neighbour, St Paul’s Bay, with its small, colourful boats and quaint townhouses testament to its past as a fishing village. Across the water, you’ll be able to spot the uninhabited St Paul’s island, which is said to be the spot where St Paul, the patron saint of Malta who converted the Maltese to Christianity, was shipwrecked on the island in 60 AD. Look out for the statue of the saint, which stands around four metres high, allegedly

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MELLIEHA, BUGIBBA & AROUND

near the spot where the saint was shipwrecked. It was inaugurated in 1845 and still dominates the island today. You can visit the island by boat on an organised trip. The next destination on your northern tour of the island should be Mellieha, but do make time for a couple of pitstops along the way. Mistra Bay, accessed by a secondary road after driving through Xemxija, is ideal for a quiet country walk in winter or a quick dip in summer. If you’re after a spot of sightseeing instead, head towards Selmun Palace, which watches imposingly over Mistra Bay. Just a short drive (or rugged trek) away is the tiny and secluded Selmun Bay, known to locals as Imgiebah which, despite being somewhat difficult to get to, is a slice of paradise.

Perched on top of a hill north-west of the island, overlooking the clear blue waters of extensive Mellieha Bay, also known as Ghadira Bay, is the village of Mellieha, which dates back to medieval times. Down in beautiful Mellieha Bay, BirdPark Malta, the bird sanctuary also referred to as Ghadira Nature Reserve is a freshwater haven for migrating birds, and sees around 140 species annually. Finally, just across from Mellieha Bay is the impressive Red Tower dedicated to St Agatha. It could serve as the ultimate sunset spot from which to see much of what this striking part of the island has to offer.

PLACES OF INTEREST Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha)

7 Mellieha Bay

Golden Bay

8 Ghadira Nature Reserve

Majjistral Nature & History Park

D LATN IJA ROA

WIED MUSA ROAD

Popeye Village

Paradise Bay

Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower)

9 Selmun Bay (Imgiebah) 10 Selmun Palace 11 Mistra Bay 12 Malta National Aquarium

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UWE ALBERT-THIELE

Ghadira Nature Reserve

Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower)

H E R I TA G E VIEWINGMALTA.COM

Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower) You can’t miss the impressive Red Tower dedicated to St Agatha, named so owing to its distinctive red colour. Built in 1649 and offering panoramic sea views, the Order of the Knights of St John equipped it with a cannon and a strong defence force, using its high ridge location to communicate easily with the island of Gozo across the water.

Selmun Palace

Tad-Dahar Street, Mellieha (2122 0358)

Sanctuary of St Paul’s Shipwreck This chapel is believed to have been built upon the spot where, following St Paul’s shipwreck, a bonfire was lit and the saint was bitten, but remained unaffected, by a poisonous snake. Inside, you’ll notice three fine paintings depicting scenes of the Bible-documented shipwreck.

Selmun Palace Selmun Palace (also known as Selmun Tower) is an 18th century tower-like edifice located on the outskirts of Mellieha. Built by the Monte della Redenzione degli Schiavi, a charity founded during the reign of Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt, this architectural gem served as a hunting and recreational lodge for the Knights of St John. Mellieha

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AT T R A C T I O N S Ghadira Nature Reserve BirdPark Malta is situated in a picturesque spot in Mellieha Bay and serves as a freshwater haven for migrating birds. With around 140 species arriving annually, the park is also home to over 200 species of birds and various animals. Guided tours are available. Marfa Road, Mellieha (7955 4347, www.birdlifemalta.org)

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Malta National Aquarium

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Popeye Village

Majjistral Nature & History Park

Majjistral Nature & History Park This picturesque nature park encompasses the coastal area from Golden Bay to ix-Xaghra l-Hamra, including a 6km stretch that is protected as part of the Natura 2000 network, and multiple historical and archaeological sites. Guided tours are held regularly, including snorkelling sessions during summer. Ghajn Tuffieha Street, Manikata (2152 1291, www.majjistral.org)

Malta National Aquarium

DARREN SALIBA

Popeye Village Constructed as the film set for the 1980 musical production ‘Popeye’ starring Robin Williams, Popeye Village remains a major attraction to this day. Filled with lopsided huts, rickety bridges and swimming spots, children will love the range of activities available, while everyone will enjoy the breath-taking views from the village across the bay. Prajjet Street, Anchor Bay, Mellieha (2152 4782, www.popeyemalta.com)

Splash & Fun Water Park

The eye-catching, star-shaped building that houses Malta’s first national aquarium is home to a remarkable collection of fish, ranging from species found in local waters to sharks, sting rays, eels and several other stunning sea creatures. It also includes fashionable hangout Café del Mar.

Salini National Park

Trunciera Street, Qawra (2258 8100, www.aquarium.com.mt)

Qawra Street, Qawra (2157 5258)

The peaceful Salini National Park in Qawra is ideal for families with children to play, or to simply relax with friends. Encircling an open fountain surrounded by natural turf, the park also features an artificial water stream that flows towards the adjoining parking area.

Kids will love this large water park which boasts several swimming pools, water slides, a large wave pool and a lazy river. The park hosts regular activities led by professional animators and also features an onsite snack bar and restaurant, with plenty of parking available. Coast Road, Bahar ic-Caghaq (2137 4283, www.splashandfunmalta.com)

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Café del Mar

Gnejna Bay

Golden Bay

LEISURE Café del Mar Sit back and enjoy the stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and St Paul’s island at Café del Mar – a high-end venue in which to relax, swim, drink, dine and party. With live DJ sessions and popular sunset events, the atmosphere at Café del Mar has made it one of Malta’s top party hotspots.

Golden Bay

Mistra Bay

This crowd-pulling bay is among the largest and most popular sandy beaches in Malta, and is perfect for swimming, snorkelling and beach barbecues. With plenty of on-site facilities, visitors can also enjoy the breath-taking scenery and spectacular sunsets from the beach.

Mistra Bay is a popular spot among locals looking for a quiet country walk in winter or a quick dip during summer. Accessed via a side road near Xemxija, the intimate sea inlet at Mistra Bay leads to a stunning, lush, green valley.

Trunciera Street, Qawra (2258 8100, www.cafedelmar.com.mt)

Mellieha

Gnejna Bay This sandy beach located in the northwest of Malta, within the limits of Mgarr, is quieter than other nearby sandy beaches, and offers great snorkelling opportunities in the crystal-clear sea water, while sunbathers can choose between the sand and the nearby stretch of flat limestone rock. Mgarr

Mellieha Bay Mellieha Bay, also known as Ghadira Bay, is a vast sandy beach located in the north of Malta. Boasting a stretch of shallow water, it is easily accessible from the road, and offers a range of activities such as windsurfing, kite surfing, canoeing and water-skiing, making it one of the most family-friendly beaches on the island. Mellieha

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Xemxija

Nine Lives Lido Nine Lives is a carefully curated lido and restaurant space on the Perched Beach in St Paul’s Bay. Relax on the comfortable sunbeds by day and enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner at the restaurant while the mood changes as the sun goes down, with atmospheric music and a ‘sunset ritual’ in the summer months. Perched Beach, St Paul’s Bay (2157 9658, www.ninelivesmalta.com)

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Paradise Bay

Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha)

Oracle Casino

Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha)

Located within the Dolmen Resort Hotel, Oracle Casino is the only casino in this part of the island. Apart from spectacular sea views and daily live entertainment, the casino also offers visitors gaming tables, poker tournaments, cash games and slot machines, as well as food from the on-site bistro.

Also known as Ghajn Tuffieha Bay, Riviera Bay offers the ideal setting to watch seaside sunsets or to enjoy water sports such as jet- and waterskiing. The bay and neighbouring cliffs afford an unspoiled rural view, and are home to an ancient defence tower and remnants of Roman baths. Make time for a bite to eat and a cocktail from the idyllic Singita Miracle Beach Malta, a popular spot from morning to night.

Islet Promenade, Qawra (2157 0057, www.oraclecasino.com). Also The Casino, Portomaso, St Julian’s (2138 3777)

Paradise Bay

Mgarr

Oracle Casino

Ta’ Fra Ben

Set at the furthest north point of Malta, the cliffs at Paradise Bay offer an unobstructed view of both Gozo and Comino. The secluded sandy beach nestled between the cliffs is ideal for sunbathing and is equipped with all the necessary facilities including sunbeds and umbrellas, as well as a good-quality dining spot.

Selmun Bay (Imgiebah Bay)

Mellieha

Selmun Bay, also called Imgiebah Bay, is a sandy, remote and secluded beach in the northeastern part of Malta. Accessed via a rough road, the beautiful beach is well worth the effort of getting there, while the water is crystalclear and ideal for snorkelling.

Located right behind Qawra’s only coastal watch tower, this rocky beach is popular among swimmers and snorkellers, and in the evenings, becomes a go-to for barbecues. At the top of the road leading down to the bay, a small reggae bar makes for the ideal spot to wind down with a cold drink after a long hot summer’s day.

Mellieha

Qawra

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E AT & D R I N K

MICHELE AGIUS

Debbie’s Café

Munchies

CAFÉS

INDIAN

Debbie’s Café

Garam Masalaa

This small, delightful café serves a variety of light bites and tasty sweets and cakes, all freshly-prepared, while its coffee is reputed to be the best in Mellieha. 62, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha, (2765 4101)

Munchies This popular café is open all-year round, and offers good food, excellent service and spectacular views of Mellieha Bay, no matter the season. There’s an extensive lunch and dinner menu, as well as a tempting range of home-made desserts. Marfa Road, Mellieha (2157 6416, www.munchies.com.mt)

Sea View Café This no-frills, self-service café on Mellieha hill has been open for 65 years and serves a vast food and snacks menu. Its captivating views of Mellieha and Gozo can be enjoyed from the indoor seating area, its terrace or even the children’s play area. Salvinu Vella Street, Mellieha (2704 2230)

Xemxija Café Lounge & Wine Bar Situated in the heart of Xemxija Bay and enjoying magnificent sea and country views, this welcoming café has ample indoor and outdoor seating space, and offers a wide selection of Mediterranean dishes, sweets and cakes, as well as an extensive wine list. Xemxija Bay, Xemxija (2701 5266)

This family-run Indian eatery overlooking Salini Bay is popular among locals, offering diners a varied selection of starters before sampling some of the delicious main courses from the extensive menu, including tandoori options cooked in a traditional clay oven. Qawra Road, Qawra (2157 5787, www.garammasalaamalta.com)

New Madras Chef patron Vellai Chamy Muthuraman, or ‘Muthu’ as he is known, channels his extensive Indian culinary experience into this family-run restaurant. With a menu of wellselected dishes from the many regions of India where Muthu worked, diners at New Madras can enjoy a genuine experience of Indian cuisine. 3, Gondoffli Road, Bugibba (9929 8138, www.newmadras.com.mt) MEDITERRANEAN

Beefbar Located in St Paul’s Bay, along Malta’s stunning Mediterranean shoreline, the recently opened ‘Beefbar on the Beach’ applies the steakhouse concept born in Monte Carlo to combine fine-dining with understated luxury. Executive chef Thierry Paludetto presents incredible, tasty yet simple dishes inspired by popular recipes from around the world, and great meat cuts sourced in Australia, Japan and the United States. Dawret Il-Gzejjer, St Paul’s Bay (2158 0999, www.malta.beefbar.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 185

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E AT & D R I N K

Commando Restaurant

Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro

Bouquet Garni Bouquet Garni specialises in fresh fish and seafood dishes, offering a modern take on classic Mediterranean and French cuisines. Chefs and brothers Darren and Wayne propose a range of creative dishes on their menu and their ever-changing specialities board, which diners can enjoy in the restaurant’s elegant interiors. 4, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (9942 5211)

The Chef’s Table Working to the motto ‘cooked with love, served with a smile’, The Chef’s Table has become a well-loved gem in the heart of Bugibba’s lively pub and restaurant hub, offering both comfortable interior and outdoor seating. The restaurant’s varied menu also caters for vegetarians and vegans. Pioneer Road, Bugibba (9981 5960)

Commando Restaurant Set inside a 300-year-old stone building, Commando Restaurant stands on a hilltop in the historic centre of Mellieha, with summertime outdoor seating available on the pretty square. The service is warm and the menu is exceptional, featuring simple-yet-refined dishes that are wholesome and delicious. Iz-Zjara tal-Papa Square, Mellieha (9949 8843, www.commandorestaurant.com)

Fins & Gills Opening its doors in 2016, this no-frills fish and chips take-away has quickly become a St Paul’s Bay staple. The family-run eatery is led by David Borg, whose family has been in the fishing business since the 1970s. While there’s 186 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

not much room to sit on the corner where the shop is located, do as the locals do and make your way down the hill to enjoy your order by the sea – bliss! Mosta Road, St Paul’s Bay (2713 9297)

Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro If you’re looking for something a little beyond the ordinary, this well-established bistro is perfect for a special night out. Diners can enjoy its famously mouth-watering cuisine either al fresco on the terrace with a backdrop of the sea, or in the cosy Mediterranean-meets-the-Hamptons interior. The menu here changes daily, and is inspired by seasonal produce. Salini Resort, Salini Bay, St Paul’s Bay (2157 4882, www.giuseppisrestaurant.com)

La Buona Trattoria del Nonno This popular family-run eatery is renowned for its selection of dishes based on a combination of charcoalgrilled cooking and slow oven-baking. Favourites include delectable pizzas, fresh pastas and slow-cooked meats. Fresh local fish may also be selected from the display at the fish counter. St Paul Street, St Paul’s Bay (2157 3182, www.trattoriadelnonno.com)

Lovage Bistro Combining a traditional cooking style with a modern twist, this bistro offers a selection of tasty dishes including salads, pastas, meat and fish. With outdoor seating, a bar and an indoor snug area, Lovage is the ideal spot for everything from a quick bite to a family meal. L-Imhar Street, Qawra (7959 4098, www.lovagebistro.com)

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E AT & D R I N K

SEAN MALLIA

One80 Kitchen & Lounge

Tarragon

Made in Sud Fans of Neapolitan-style pizza would do well to factor in a visit to this unassuming pizzeria in St Paul’s Bay. The pizzaiolo’s passion is evident in each pizza, which makes use of distinctive flavours hailing from the Costa Amalfitana down to the Calabria region. 150, P Guzepp Calleja Street, St Paul’s Bay (2702 0248)

Mithna Housed within a converted 17th-century flour windmill, Mithna is well known for serving top-quality cuisine. It offers set, à la carte and kids’ menus, as well as an extensive wine list, all of which may be enjoyed either within the windmill itself or in the charming outdoor area. 58, Main Street, Mellieha (2152 0404, www.mithna.com)

One80 Kitchen & Lounge As its name suggests, One80 enjoys views stretching from the parish church down to the Ta’ Ruman Valley and Mellieha Bay. Ideal for lunch while visiting one of the nearby sandy beaches, or dinner while enjoying the spectacular sunset view, One80 offers distinctive dishes in a stylish ambience. With another location at Mgarr Yacht Marina, Gozo, you can sit back and enjoy the views and lively atmosphere of the Mgarr Harbour. 30, Il-Wied ta’ Ruman Street, Mellieha (2152 1637, www.one80.com.mt)

Rebekah’s Housed within a beautifully restored traditional house of character, Rebekah’s balances old-world charm with

modern culinary concepts. Enjoy a simple, elegant dining experience on your visit, sitting in the airy courtyard over summer or by the rustic fireplace in winter, whether you opt for the daily specials, fresh fish or seasonal menu. Tgham Street, Mellieha (2152 1145, www.rebekahs.com.mt)

Ta’ L-Ingliz Restaurant If you’re looking for exceptional Maltese cuisine, you need to check out this family-run restaurant. Celebrated by locals for serving up a truly authentic taste of the island, it is the ideal place to sample traditional Maltese rabbit, prepared in a variety of ways and served by friendly and helpful staff in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. 59, Main Street, Imgarr (2157 4605)

Tal-Puzzu Favoured by locals for its delicious home-made pizza among other things, Tal-Puzzu also serves a range of freshly prepared traditional Mediterranean cuisine, including pasta dishes and grilled meats. It’s a familyfriendly restaurant with a cosy and welcoming atmosphere. 11, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2754 4388)

Tarragon Combining an exceptional mix of quality, comfort and value, this award-winning restaurant offers excellent service with a menu that features steaks, shellfish, fish, irresistible desserts, daily specials and an outstanding wine list. The Tarragon experience is indeed a superb culinary adventure. Church Street, St Paul’s Bay (2157 3759, www.tarragonmalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 187

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E AT & D R I N K

Zigumar

Cheeky Monkey Gastropub

Venus This small, family-run restaurant in the heart of Bugibba offers a diverse menu of Mediterranean cuisine, featuring daily specials of fresh fish and meat cuts. It also boasts a tempting aperitifs menu, which is bound to whet the appetite for a dining experience to remember. Pioneer Road, Bugibba (9984 6767, www.venusrestaurant.com)

Zigumar Perched right on the coast with views of Qawra Bay, Zigumar offers a delectable taste of summer. The restaurant has earned a reputation for serving only the finest and freshest local fish and seafood, accompanied by a wide variety of local and Italian ingredients. Luzzu Street, Qawra (9906 4380) ORIENTAL

Amami The best of Asian cuisine comes together at Amami, to create a sophisticated combination of authentic flavours. Named after the mythical goddess of creation, Amamikyu, the restaurant sources local fresh produce to delight the taste buds as guests enjoy the outstanding view of Ghadira Bay. Marfa Road, Mellieha (2152 1156, www.amamirestaurant.com)

Chang Thai Serving the most genuine Thai dishes in authentic surroundings, Chang Thai promises an unforgettable journey of flavours merged with the beauty of Thai culture and tradition. The menu showcases traditional cuisine from across all four regions of Thailand and includes tasty

seafood, fish and meat, as well as vegetarian and children’s options. Tourists Street, Qawra (9945 0609, www.changthai-restaurant.com) BARS

Cheeky Monkey Gastropub This relaxed gastropub offers a vast beverage menu that features top-quality beers (including craft beers) with pints on tap, as well as spirits, cognacs, blends, liqueurs, rums, single malts, cocktails, non-alcoholic smoothies, hot beverages and more. There is also a tempting food menu available. Qawra Coast Road, Qawra (7954 3853, www.cheekymonkeymalta. com). Also 175, Merchants Street, Valletta (2235 4050)

The Fortress Wine & Dine Housed inside a 300-year-old gun battery right opposite Xemxija Bay, The Fortress provides the ideal spot to relax on the sofas or in a gazebo, while sampling the extensive wine list. Patrons may also opt for international food platters ranging from sushi to French cheeses and Chinese to Greek delights. Xemxija Hill, Xemxija (2157 9852)

O’Reilly’s Gastro Pub While this pub is known for its innovative 1.1 litre cocktails that are made by the owner himself, it is also popular due to its live entertainment and screening of live sporting events – not to mention its warm, friendly bar staff, its whisky selection and its open-all-hours kitchen. Hallel Street, Bugibba (9924 0788) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 189

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SLEEP

AX Seashells Resort at Suncrest

db San Antonio Hotel & Spa

Labranda Riviera Hotel & Spa

AX Seashells Resort at Suncrest

db Seabank Resort & Spa

Boasting some of the very best sea views on the island, this quality hotel located on the Qawra Waterfront offers on-site amenities such as a spa and outdoor swimming pools, as well as many other leisure and dining options located within walking distance of the hotel.

Located just 30m away from Malta’s largest beach, Mellieha Bay, this resort features a large pool, a spa, six themed restaurants and three bars, and offers a range of sports and leisure facilities, including family-friendly activities, and a full animation programme with live evening shows.

Qawra Coast Road, Qawra (2157 7101, www.seashellsresortmalta.com)

Marfa Road, Mellieha (2289 1000, www.dbhotelsresorts.com/dbseabank)

AX Sunny Coast Resort & Spa In keeping with its name, this aparthotel in Qawra promises breath-taking sunset views. It offers guests spacious, fully-serviced, self-catering apartments in a comfortable and welcoming environment, and also houses spa facilities and indoor and outdoor swimming pools. Qawra Coast Road, Qawra (2157 7101, www.sunnycoast.com.mt)

db San Antonio Hotel & Spa Located right at the heart of Qawra, db San Antonio Hotel & Spa offers guests a complete, all-inclusive experience. Comprising 500 rooms and suites, the hotel also boasts multiple bars and restaurants, outdoor pools overlooking St Paul’s Bay, fitness and spa facilities, and a jam-packed entertainment programme. Tourists Street, Qawra (2158 3434, www.dbhotelsresorts.com/dbsanantonio)

Dolmen Resort Hotel This four-star hotel, situated along the Qawra promenade, affords spectacular views of the sea and St Paul’s island. The extensive on-site facilities include a private beach lido, a nightclub with a large outdoor terrace, a diving club, the Oracle Casino, indoor pools, and a fitness room and spa. Dolmen Street, Qawra (2355 2355, www.dolmen.com.mt)

Labranda Riviera Hotel & Spa With its tranquil seafront location and unspoiled views of the islands of Gozo and Comino, the idyllic Labranda Riviera Hotel & Spa boasts a large spa, multiple sea water swimming pools, and several bars and restaurants. The hotel also houses a diving school that offers various packages, including visits to numerous nearby dive wrecks and diving sites – perfect for adventure lovers. Marfa Bay, Mellieha (2152 5900, www.labranda.com/riviera-hotel-spa)

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Maritim Antonin Hotel & Spa Malta

Salini Resort VIEWINGMALTA.COM/RICHARD KALINA

Maritim Antonin Hotel & Spa Malta Located in the heart of Mellieha, the four-star Maritim Antonin offers breath-taking views of this picturesque town and the surrounding countryside. Lounge by the rooftop pool, enjoy some downtime at the plush spa, and grab a bite to eat at its the range of eateries. Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2289 2201, www.maritim.com.mt)

Paradise Bay Resort Hotel Situated close to some of the island’s most beautiful beaches, Paradise Bay Resort offers spacious rooms and a variety of restaurants and bars, including the elegant K Lounge. Guests can also make use of the four sea water swimming pools, a private sandy beach, games room and playground. Paradise Bay, Cirkewwa (2289 5000, www.paradise-bay.com)

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands Enjoying some of Malta’s finest views, Radisson Blu’s Golden Sands resort delivers top-notch facilities including impeccable suites, a panoramic sauna in its leisure centre, a private beach, four pools, a diving centre, a range of dining options, free Wi-Fi and a highend spa. Golden Bay, l/o Mellieha (2356 1000, www.radissonblu.com/goldensandsresort-malta)

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands

Ramla Bay Resort This resort offers unobstructed views of the sea towards Gozo and Comino, as well as Malta’s countryside. Its many amenities include a private sandy beach, three outdoor pools, an indoor pool, a diving school and a seasonal sports centre, as well as several restaurants, bars and a state-of-the-art spa. Ramla Road, Marfa, l/o Mellieha (2281 2281, www.ramlabayresort.com)

Salini Resort Situated along the coast overlooking Salini Bay, this resort affords magnificent sea views, while its elegant interiors are inspired by the Mediterranean landscape that surrounds it. Apart from the 240 rooms and suites, it also features a spa, two tennis courts, two outdoor pools, and multiple popular restaurants and bars. Salini Bay, St Paul’s Bay (2016 3000, www.saliniresort.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 191

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GOZO & COMINO

Gozo & Comino You will certainly not regret factoring in a visit to Gozo on your visit to the Maltese islands – the sister island has an aesthetic, history, culture and character all of its own.

quick 25-minute ferry ride away from Cirkewwa (for cars and passengers) or a 45-minute ferry trip from Valletta (passengers only), Gozo is your gateway to discover a quainter side to the Maltese islands – indulge in its laid-back pace, untarnished scenery, swathes of countryside, fantastic food and an array of activities. And particularly if you’re only visiting for a day or weekend getaway, the best part about Gozo is its size! Its area is just 67sqkm, so you can pack quite a few things into your itinerary – which is great as there is certainly no shortage of places to discover and activities to enjoy.

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The ferry will drop you off at Mgarr Harbour, and from here, you’ll instantly get a sense of what’s awaiting you on the ‘island of the three hills’, as it is known among locals. As for getting around, buses are the main means of public transport in Gozo, but hiring a car may make it easier for you to wander around the charming, winding roads that link the many villages that dot the island. Alternatively, there are also two hop-on, hop-off bus routes that take you round the most popular sites. Most roads in Gozo lead to the capital, Rabat, which is also sometimes referred to as Victoria – a name given to it during the British

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GOZO & COMINO In the northern part of the island, on the outskirts of the tiny village of Ghasri, you’ll find the pictureperfect Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse, around which you’ll be able to enjoy spectacular panoramic views of Gozo. Meanwhile, the seaside resort of Marsalforn – with its promenade dotted with bars and outdoor eateries – is a 10-minute drive away. Marsalforn bay was recently awarded Blue Flag status (along with scenic Hondoq ir-Rummien). If you’d like to visit another beach, we definitely suggest Mgarr ix-Xini, located a few minutes’ away by car from the main harbour, before you head back.

rule to mark Queen Victoria’s diamond jubilee. At its heart lies Independence Square (better known as it-Tokk), where several market vendors often set up to sell everything from knitted jumpers and sunglasses to beach towels and traditional lace. The town also encompasses the imposing, fortified capital – the Cittadella, on the hill above the centre. Among the top places to visit in Gozo are the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ggantija, the Ta’ Kola Windmill, the legendary Calypso’s Cave, and Ramla Bay, with its deep-red sand and turquoisecoloured waters.

The ferry trip to Gozo will provide a scenic view of Comino, the smallest of the three inhabited islands that make up the Maltese archipelago – just three people are registered here as residents. Although small, the highlights on the island are magnificent, and include the breath-taking Blue Lagoon and the largest coastal tower, the Santa Marija tower, built by the Order of the Knights of St John. Ferries to Comino run frequently from both Malta and Gozo, so you may easily spend anything between a few hours to a full day on this idyllic island.

Despite its small size, there are many other attractions dotted around the island, although sadly, it was left bereft of one of its landmarks in 2017 – when the Insta-famous Azure Window in Dwejra (a contender for the seven wonders of the natural world), which made an appearance in many epic films including Troy, crumbled into the sea following a violent storm. Still, the surrounding area is beautiful, and we’d definitely recommend a short walk down to the inland sea for a short boat ride through the caves into the open sea, observing the enchanting Fungus Rock, which has a fascinating history all of its own.

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St Mary’s Cathedral Gozo Museum of Archaeology Gozo Citadel Visitors’ Centre Citadel Cinema

Independence Square (It-Tokk)

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GOZO & COMINO DANIEL CILIA

Ggantija Temples

Cittadella

H E R I TA G E Situated above Gozo’s capital, Rabat, the island’s tiny citadel boasts stunning 360-degree views. Following its recent restoration, the Cittadella, which dates back to the Middle Ages, is an architectural gem and features museums, sites, meandering streets and crafts shops. Rabat

Ggantija Temples Enjoying UNESCO World Heritage status, Ggantija Temples are made up of two Neolithic temples that were built by ‘giants’, if you believe the local lore (Ggantija is derived from the word ggant, meaning giant in Maltese), almost 6,000 years ago. These historical marvels are situated on the outskirts of the quaint village of Xaghra. John Otto Bayer Street, Xaghra (2155 3194, www.heritagemalta.org)

Gharb Folklore Museum This unique museum is housed within a privately-owned early18th century house. It comprises 28 rooms that display a variety of historical objects associated with Gozo’s traditional trades, crafts and pastimes, such as milling, printing, carpentry and winemaking. Frenc ta’ l-Gharb Street, Gharb (2156 1929)

MARTINA SAID VIEWINGMALTA.COM

Cittadella

Gozo Museum of Archaeology

Gran Castello Historic House

Opening its doors in 1960, the Gozo Museum of Archaeology was the sister isle’s first public museum, and is housed within a 17thcentury townhouse. The exhibits are divided into three sections: Prehistory, the Classical period and the Medieval and Early Modern periods, each showcasing beautiful and historically significant local archaeological artefacts.

Also known as the Folklore Museum, Gran Castello is set within a cluster of houses built in the late Gothic style, with Sicilian and Catalan influences, dating back to the 16th century. The museum features several exhibits showcasing the local, domestic, rural and traditional ways of Gozitan life.

Mdina Gate Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6144, www.heritagemalta.org)

Melite Bernardo De Opuo Street, Citadel, Rabat (2156 2034, www.heritagemalta.org)

Heart of Gozo – Il-Hagar

Gozo Nature Museum Housed within three interconnected buildings that date back to the 17th century, this interesting museum focuses on Gozo’s natural resources and their use throughout the ages. Its collection of exhibits showcases the island’s geology and minerals, as well as human and animal evolution. Kwartier ta’ San Martin Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6153, www.heritagemalta.org)

This impressive complex combines a medieval palace, a traditional townhouse and a cultural centre which is home to an extensive collection of religious, historical and artistic artefacts. Among the highlights are paintings, statues, religious vestments and coins, as well as gifts from Popes Francis and Benedict XVI. St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 7504, www.heartofgozo.org.mt)

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GOZO & COMINO

St Mary’s Cathedral & Museum

VIEWINGMALTA.COM/DANIEL MALINOWSKI

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Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary

The Old Prison

St George’s Basilica

Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary

Housed within the Cittadella and adjacent to the Courts of Justice, this former prison was in continuous use between the mid-16th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Nowadays, you can visit six individual cells and look out for the ancient graffiti, including depictions of sea vessels, crosses, games, dates and names carved by its inhabitants throughout the centuries.

The perfect example of a Baroque church, St George’s Basilica is also known as the Golden Basilica, and houses myriad notable artworks including a wooden statue of St George, two works by worldrenowned Baroque painter Mattia Preti and a beautiful solid bronze door.

This popular pilgrimage site is a shrine to the Virgin Mary, and even welcomed Pope Benedict XVI in 2010. The museum at the back, Dar Karmni Grima, is fascinating, and exhibits letters and stories sent in gratitude for blessings received. The front of the Sanctuary is emblazoned with beautiful mosaics depicting the 20 mysteries of the rosary.

Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2156 5988, www.heritagemalta.org)

San Dimitri Chapel The San Dimitri Chapel, which was rebuilt in 1736 on the spot where an early-15th century chapel once stood, is located close to the cliff known as the Cape of St Demetrius. Set amid the gorgeous Gozitan countryside, the rural chapel’s interior is intricately painted and is coated with mosaics.

St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 6377, www.stgeorge.org.mt)

St Mary’s Cathedral & Museum Located atop a flight of stairs within the fortified Cittadella, this Baroque cathedral and adjoining museum was designed in 1697 by Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà. The Cathedral is built entirely out of local limestone and is shaped like a Latin cross, while the trompe l’oeil ceiling painting gives the illusion of a dome. Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2155 4101)

L/O Gharb 196 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Gharb (2155 6045, www.tapinu.org)

AT T R A C T I O N S Gozo Citadel Visitors’ Centre Complementing the spectacular Cittadella perched above Gozo’s capital city of Rabat, this modern visitors’ centre is set within two old water reservoirs built in the 1870s. The audio-visual presentation offers interesting insight into the citadel’s history and layout. Cittadella, Rabat (2215 6507)

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Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse

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Ta’ Kola Windmill

Independence Square (It-Tokk) Known as It-Tokk by locals, Independence Square, in the centre of Rabat, is home to a bustling open market and several cafés with outdoor seating. The square is dominated by the Banca Giuratale, built between 1733 and 1738, which was the seat of Gozo’s municipal government and currently houses the Rabat local council. Il-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II Street, Rabat

The Inland Sea The Inland Sea is a lagoon of seawater linked to the Mediterranean Sea through an opening formed by a narrow natural arch. It is a short walk away from the site of the former Azure Window, a local icon which sadly collapsed into the sea during a storm in 2017. Popular among divers, it is also said that the renowned French explorer Jacques Cousteau mentioned the Inland Sea among his top 10 dives.

Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse A Gozitan landmark, the Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse rises 161m above sea level and overlooks the charming village of Ghasri. Constructed in 1851 during the British rule, the lighthouse is now automatic, but enjoys breath-taking 360-degree panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Lanterna Street, Ghasri

The Inland Sea

Ta’ Kola Windmill

Ta’ Xwejni Salt Pans

This impressive stone windmill was first built in 1725 and reconstructed in the 1780s. Incredibly, it was still in use until the mid-20th century, and is today named after the last miller who worked and lived there. Visitors can observe the former workshop on the ground floor and the living quarters on the first floor, as well as the remarkable milling mechanism within the tower.

This chequerboard of rock-cut saltpans set along the north coast of Malta’s sister isle, just past the popular Qbajjar Bay, makes for an interesting sight to behold. The 350-year-old salt pans are ingrained in the Gozitan tradition of sea salt production, a custom that has been passed down within local families for generations.

Bambina Street, Xaghra (2156 0171, www.heritagemalta.org)

Ta’ Mena Estate Set over a breath-taking 25 hectares of land, Ta’ Mena Estate combines Gozo’s primary means of livelihood: agriculture and tourism. Named after the original owner, Carmena, the estate today welcomes visitors interested to learn more about typical rural life in Gozo and provides tours of its extensive vineyards and olive grove. Marsalforn Road, Xaghra (2156 3097, www.tamena-gozo.com)

Zebbug

Tal-Mixta Cave Considered one of the most Instagrammable locations in Gozo, this hidden gem overlooks the stunning Ramla Bay, and is popular for its breath-taking sunset views of the bright red sandy beach below. L/O Nadur

Villa Rundle Gardens The regenerated Villa Rundle Gardens, in the heart of the Gozitan capital, provide recreational facilities including a playing area, a visitors’ centre and a spot for open-air activities. Republic Street, Rabat

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Blue Lagoon

LEISURE Arkadia Commercial Centre This popular four-floor shopping mall in the capital city comprises a sizeable supermarket and stores, stocking well-known brands such as Next, Orsay, Parfois, Pimkie, Piazza Italia and Sun Lab.

Arthall Gozo

Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat (2210 3000, www.arkadia.com.mt)

Arthall Gozo This gallery promotes groundbreaking, avant-garde, ironic and provocative contemporary and modern art. It also hosts regular exhibitions showcasing works by local and international artists, and offers a catalogue of artworks for sale. 8, GPF Agius De Soldanis Street, Rabat (7705 1564, www.arthallgozo.com)

Astra Theatre Inaugurated in 1968, the Astra has hosted many top local and international performers, including celebrated Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja, Raffaella Carrà, the Montparnasse Ballet Troupe, the Ballet Classique de Paris and Amedeo Minghi. The theatre is also renowned for its annual operatic event, though it is currently closed due to COVID-19 restrictions. Look out for updates on its reopening on the website. 9, Republic Street, Rabat (2155 0985, www.teatruastra.org.mt)

Aurora Theatre Adorned with artworks by renowned Maltese artist Chev Emvin Cremona, the Aurora’s design, architectural features and furnishing afford it perfect acoustics. It is sadly closed due to COVID-19 restrictions at the time of publishing, but the Instaworthy Aurora Bistro Café within its premises continues to welcome patrons and is worth a visit in itself. Republic Street, Rabat (2156 2974, www.teatruaurora.com)

Blue Lagoon Offering one of the best swimming spots across the Maltese islands, the Blue Lagoon lies between the island of Comino and the islet of Cominotto. The lagoon is named after the colour of its crystal-clear waters as they reflect the vibrant blue of the sky. It tends to get crowded on weekends, so if you’re thinking of visiting, make your way there early. Comino

Citadel Cinema Gozo’s only cinema is housed within a century-old building located near the capital’s ancient Cittadella. With two 4K projectors that screen the latest Hollywood releases, the Citadel Cinema also offers a 360-degree view of Gozo, through a short, multi-lingual film. 17, Castle Hill, Rabat (2155 9955, www.citadelcinema.com)

The Duke Shopping Mall Located on the main road that runs through Rabat, this shopping mall houses several established brands including Accessorize, Adidas, Bata, The Kitchen Store, Promod, Skechers, Springfield and United Colors of Benetton. The Duke Café is also a popular coffee spot, and free parking is available for customers on-site. Republic Street, Rabat (2155 8000, www.thedukegozo.com)

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Hondoq Bay

Mgarr Ix-Xini

Ramla Bay

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Hondoq Bay

La Grotta

Ramla Bay

A picturesque sandy beach enjoying a view of Comino, Hondoq Bay is also an ideal diving site, thanks to its small caves at water level offsetting the crystal-clear, azure water and its stunning underwater marine life.

Situated between Rabat and the idyllic Xlendi Bay, the popular La Grotta club has both outdoor and indoor dancefloors, and regularly attracts big names, such as Sonique, Bo Bruce and David Guetta. The unique setting also features a natural cave and five bars, and while it’s currently closed due to COVID-19 restrictions, it will certainly be a must-visit once it’s safe to do so.

Considered to be one of the best beaches in Gozo by locals, this wide stretch of beach is also known as Ramla l-Hamra for its distinct, red-coloured sand. It’s the perfect spot for swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing, and the beach also has a few cafés, kiosks and shower facilities set up nearby.

Xlendi (9900 7070)

Smaller in size than Ramla Bay but brimming with beauty is San Blas Bay, which also features fine, redcoloured sand. Located at the end of a valley, the last part of which is closed to vehicles, San Blas Bay is a little trickier to get to, making it less crowded and a lot more peaceful.

Qala

Ku Club This indoor, state-of-the-art club in the heart of Rabat boasts a massive dancefloor, the latest light technology and sound systems, and four bars on two different levels. Playing a variety of music from techno to dance, there are normally regular performances by international stars, though it is currently closed due to COVID-19 restrictions. Keep an eye out for updates on its reopening during your visit. Mro Giuseppe Giardini Vella Street, Rabat (9900 7070)

Mgarr Ix-Xini Famously featured as the setting for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s illfated film ‘By the Sea’, this stunning, secluded inlet is ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Besides the narrow rocky inlet, there is also a tiny pebbled beach which provides a gentle slope into the water. The bay is also popular with divers due to its caves in the cliff face and a nearby shipwreck. Mgarr ix-Xini Street, Sannat

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San Blas Bay

L/O Nadur

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San Blas Bay

Spoonman’s Shop This local artist gallery next to St George’s Basilica in the heart of Rabat is run by Romanian craftsman Mark Tudose, and opened its doors in December 2018. Check out his beautiful variety of woodwork, paintings, ceramics and small handmade souvenirs if you’re looking for something unique to take home. 13A, St George’s Square, Rabat

Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village Spread over a vast area that served as the British soldiers’ quarters during World War II, Ta’ Dbiegi is the oldest crafts village on the island. Today, you’ll find an interesting selection of artisanal, high-quality crafts, and visitors may observe crafts persons at work. It’s an ideal spot for some shopping, whether you’re after metalwork, pottery, candles, leather or silverware. While you’re there, make sure you pop into Ta’ Dbiegi Jewellery, a family-run business offering a vast collection of silver items. Frangisk Portelli Street, Gharb (2155 3977, www.gozoartisans.com)

Wied il-Ghasri

Vini e Capricci by Abrahams

Wied il-Ghasri

This recently-refurbished gourmet food and wine shop offers an extensive range of artisanal foods and beverages, including 100 different wines from 68 international wineries, as well as premium chocolates and biscuits, salamis, olive oil, Italian cheeses, whiskies, artisan meats, fresh-frozen pasta and champagnes. While you’re there, make sure you check out the unique dining experience offered at its in-house Vinoteca Livio Felluga, within which the chefs regularly incorporate gourmet ingredients sourced from the store.

Wied l-Ghasri, (or Ghasri Valley in English), makes for a stunning backdrop for country walks in the winter, or a refreshing dip in the hotter months. Starting at Ta’ Dbiegi Hill, the valley winds down through the village of Ghasri, and on between Zebbug and Ta’ Gurdan Hill to meet the sea between impressive cliffs. Ghasri

Gozo Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija (2156 3231, www.abrahams.com.mt) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 201

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Maxokk

Ta’ Frenc

CAFÉS

FRENCH

Black Cat Café

Ta’ Frenc

This intimate artisan café is a must for foodies looking for a charming place that’s off-the-beaten-track. The selection of unique dishes created by the Australian-born owner Paula has earned it a following locally for being both delicious and healthy.

Counted among the best fine-dining restaurants on the Maltese islands, this award-winning eatery has been recognised by the Michelin Guide with a Plate award for good cooking. It is situated within a charming farmhouse overlooking Marsalforn valley, and features a mouthwatering menu of well-sourced seafood, meats and traditional Mediterranean dishes with a twist.

Vajringa Street, Rabat (2156 9240)

Bunna Café Coffee lovers will love this little café, set on Rabat’s main road, which is hailed by many as making some of the best coffee in Gozo. You’ll also find a variety of freshly made croissants, sandwiches and sweets on offer. 38A, Republic Street, Rabat (2705 4215)

Café Reale Café Reale is located close to the charming village of Xaghra’s parish church, and is a popular spot for enjoying a hearty breakfast or a light lunch from its menu that includes wraps, salads, pizzas and pies. There is also a range of desserts and cakes crafted by the in-house Italian patissier. 29, Victory Square, Xaghra (2155 3887)

Captain Spriss This little Italian café is the ideal location at which to enjoy a coffee with a croissant or a fresh, home-made cake. It is also well-loved for its friendly service and for its delicious selection of food such as sandwiches, omelettes and burgers. 66, Main Gate Street, Rabat (2156 9112)

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Ghajn Damma Street, Xaghra (2155 3888, www.tafrenc.mt) MALTESE

Kampnari Bakery A traditional bakery tucked away in a quiet alley right in the heart of Rabat, metres away from the charming St George’s Square, Kampnari Bakery is known for its simple yet delicious fare. Check out its variety of pizzas and traditional Gozitan ftiras, which are among the best on the island. 4, Alley Number 1, Mons G Farrugia Street, Rabat (7944 9342)

Maxokk This small, family-run bakery is a little off the beaten track, in a side street in Nadur, and yet is renowned among locals and visitors alike. Maxokk’s main claim to fame is its signature take on the Maltese traditional ftira, which bears a resemblance to a pizza, but has a character all of its own. San Gakbu Street, Nadur (2155 0014, www.maxokkbakery.com)

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The Boathouse

Beppe’s Restaurant

Mekren Bakery Another family-run bakery in Nadur, Mekren Bakery specialises in local ftira, pizzas and qassatat (closed pies filled with ricotta or other stuffing) – all popular take-away snacks for those on their way to the beach. The baker also makes some of Gozo’s best bread using the traditional techniques of hand-shaping and cooking in a limestone wood-burning oven. Hanaq Street, Nadur (2155 2342) MEDITERRANEAN

Beppe’s Restaurant With an open kitchen and a wood-burning grill, along with a chef’s table and aged meat on display, Beppe’s enjoys an informal atmosphere created by owner and chef Joseph Spiteri, while also prioritising quality, flavour and presentation, as well as excellent service. Santa Margerita Square, Sannat (2750 0567)

The Boathouse Set just across the water in Xlendi Bay, The Boathouse has built a reputation for providing a unique culinary experience along with friendly service within a beautiful seaside location. It is especially renowned for its range of fresh fish, plus weekly-changing specialities and a selection of vegan, vegetarian, lactose-free and glutenfree dishes. Xlendi Bay (2156 9153, www.theboathousegozo.com)

Brookies Restaurant & Music Lounge Set within a beautifully refurbished 300-year-old farmhouse, the décor at Brookies is impressive – look out

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for the remarkable, circular, well-stocked wine cellar – and the flavours offered on the menu are mouth-watering. Make sure to also head upstairs to the Music Café Lounge which offers stunning views of the Cittadella. 1, 2, Wied Sara Street, Rabat (2155 0924, www.brookiesgozo.com)

D-Bar This family-run restaurant, pizzeria and bar in the heart of the village of Qala is brimming with local charm and tradition – look out for the fascinating old photographs of the neighbouring localities on the walls. The simple and reasonably priced menu is prepared personally by the owners and showcases the best of local cuisine. St Joseph Square, Qala (2155 6242, www.dbargozo.com)

Ic-Cima Enjoying an incredible view of Xlendi Bay and its surrounding cliffs, this rooftop restaurant in the village of Xlendi is famed for its delicious fresh fish dishes. Ic-Cima’s menu also includes a variety of meat cuts, poultry, pastas and local dishes, as well as a selection of home-made desserts. St Simon Street, Xlendi (2155 8407, www.cimarestaurant.com)

Mojo’s Favoured among locals for a plentiful breakfast or a midmorning snack such as crumpets, waffles and pancakes, the menu here also features more wholesome options ideal for a diner-style lunch, particularly its wide range of crunchy, good-quality salads, which may be accompanied by a fresh smoothie or a side of uniquely seasoned fries. Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat (2156 9596)

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Oleander Restaurant

Qbajjar Bar & Restaurant

Oleander Restaurant Located within Xaghra’s pretty village square, this welcoming restaurant is the ideal lunchtime location following a visit to the nearby UNESCO Ggantija Temples. Diners may choose from a variety of Mediterranean dishes on the menu including delectable stewed rabbit or fresh fish, and finish off with an indulgent dessert. 10, Victory Square, Xaghra (7755 7230)

Osteria Scottadito Boasting a typical cucina Romagnola, this charming Italian osteria in the heart of Nadur offers a creative menu of home-made fresh pasta, good-quality meat and fresh fish dishes, as well as vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Its outdoor tables are especially popular in the summertime, so you’d do well to book in advance. 20, Madre Gemma Camilleri Street, Nadur (7733 0009, www.osteriascottadito.com)

Qbajjar Bar & Restaurant While this eatery offers both indoor and outdoor seating, we recommend dining outside if the weather permits, taking in the scenic rocky stretches it faces, leading to stunning sea views. The menu is inspired by traditional Maltese and Mediterranean cuisines, and features fresh pasta dishes, pizzas, meats, fresh fish and salads, as well as home-made ice-cream. 23, Xwejni Road, Marsalforn (2155 1124, www.qbajjarrestaurant.com)

Rew Rew This pine-shaded restaurant may only feature a few tables next to the beach and clear waters of Mgarr ix-Xini, but

it offers a wonderful selection of delicious fresh fish and seafood such as calamari, prawns and rockfish depending on the catch of the day. It’s an ideal spot for a light lunch by the sea. Mgarr ix-Xini (7985 4007)

Ristorante Arzella This popular restaurant serves excellent fish, meat and vegetarian food within a beautiful, recently renovated indoor-outdoor setting, with the Mediterranean Sea as its backdrop. The menu at this foodie staple also features a tempting range of home-made desserts, not to mention an extensive wine list. Ghar Qawqla Street, Marsalforn (2155 4662, www.ristorantearzella.com)

Sicilia Bella This portside Sicilian-inspired eatery is the perfect spot for a relaxed lunch or an indulgent evening meal. Using only the finest fresh ingredients, Sicilia Bella specialises in excellent fish and seafood dishes, although there are also aromatic meat and poultry dishes available. Manuel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 3588)

Ta’ Karolina Named after the nearby Karolina Cave by the Xlendi waterfront, Ta’ Karolina is a delightful family-run restaurant. Apart from the generously portioned and exquisite fresh seafood dishes, the restaurant also boasts a selection of tantalising home-made desserts. L-Ghar ta’ Karolina Street, Xlendi Bay (2155 9675, www.karolinarestaurant.com)

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Ta’ Philip

Ta’ Philip The menu at Ta’ Philip makes use of fine ingredients, traditional cooking methods and a wood-burning oven, in keeping with its commitment to support locally-sourced, seasonal produce. The downstairs Candle Lounge offers diners a relaxing vibe for an after-dinner drink from its well-stocked wine cellar.

Gleneagles Bar

BARS

Gleneagles Bar Against a quirky backdrop of fishing-inspired décor, Gleneagles Bar offers old-fashioned, good-value, tasty drinks – including the signature Gleneagles Special cocktail – as well as friendly staff and breath-taking views from its terrace across Mgarr Harbour.

29, St Anthony Street, Ghajnsielem (2156 1965, www.taphiliprestaurant.com)

10, Victory Street, Mgarr (2155 6543)

Ta’ Tona Bar & Restaurant

Situated on the charming square in front of St George’s Basilica in Rabat, the vibrant Grapes Wine Bar offers a vast range of beverages, including locally-produced craft beers, and a bar menu of tasty platters and breakfast options.

This family-run restaurant is highly sought-after for its hearty food, quaint atmosphere and excellent service. The menu of Mediterranean classics includes fresh, seasonal seafood and fish, as well as meat and poultry dishes that can be washed down with a bottle from the carefully curated wine list. Manoel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 1967)

Tmun Mgarr This established, family-run restaurant has a loyal following among Gozitans and Maltese alike, and has been recognised by the Michelin Guide with a Plate award for good cooking. The menu, prepared by talented chef Paul Buttigieg and his team, is varied, seasonal and sublime, so whether it’s fresh fish, seafood, slow-cooked beef or gluten-free or vegan options you’re after, you’re in for a treat. Martinu Garces Street, Mgarr (2156 6276, www.tmunmgarr.com)

The Grapes Wine Bar

St George’s Square, Rabat (7947 3536)

Horatio’s Upper Deck This cosy bar located near the ferry landing in Mgarr may be small, but it is always busy. As well as offering a great selection of drinks and food items including local platters, Horatio’s also welcomes live bands to perform on its open-air terrace. Manoel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 6669)

Piùtrentanove Lounge Bar This relaxed and comfortable bar owned by Italian natives Filippo and Giacomo prides itself on providing a taste of Tuscany in Gozo. For those who feel peckish, the bar menu also serves a range of delicious Mediterranean fare such as pizzas, fresh pastas and freshly-grilled fish and meat. 65, Marina Street, Marsalforn (2720 1515)

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Cesca Boutique Hotel

Duke Boutique Hotel Hotel Calypso

Cesca Boutique Hotel

Grand Hotel

Set within an incredible location at the edge of the picturesque Xlendi Valley, the 18-room Cesca Boutique Hotel exudes authentic Mediterranean hospitality and traditional charm. It affords guests remarkable views from the balconies of its luxury rooms and suites, which have been furnished to very high standards.

With spectacular vistas of the Mediterranean Sea and Mgarr Harbour from most of the 93 rooms, this four-star hotel is ideal for visitors hoping to watch the spectacular sunset each night. Grand Hotel also offers a range of facilities including the Elemis Spa, swimming pools, a sauna and jacuzzi.

Xlendi Valley, Munxar (7999 9984, www.cesca.com.mt)

Mgarr Harbour (2216 1000 www.grandhotelmalta.com)

D Golden Valley Boutique & Breakfast

Hotel Calypso

This bed and breakfast guest house situated in Xaghra enjoys an excellent location, just 1.3km from Ramla Beach and 2.6km from Xwejni Bay. The charming accommodation is complemented by free Wi-Fi, airconditioning, four outdoor swimming pools and two shared lounges.

Named after the mythical siren in Homer’s Odyssey, this hotel within Marsalforn Bay comprises 100 rooms, all of which are equipped with all the amenities needed for a comfortable stay. It also features a swimming pool and deck, as well as four in-house venues in which to wine and dine.

59c, Marsalforn Street, Xaghra (7701 4215)

Marsalforn Bay (2156 2000, www.hotelcalypsogozo.com)

Duke Boutique Hotel

Hotel San Andrea

Boasting a central location on Rabat’s Republic Street, the Duke Boutique Hotel offers easy access to the rest of the capital, as well as 30 modern and well-equipped rooms and suites. Many rooms also enjoy stunning views of the surrounding areas and of the nearby Villa Rundle Gardens.

Boasting picture-perfect sea views from its large terrace, this quaint hotel provides guests with modern amenities such as Wi-Fi, a TV area, air-conditioning and coffeemaking facilities, as well as delicious Mediterranean food from its in-house restaurant. Xlendi Promenade, Xlendi (2156 5555, www.hotelsanandrea.com)

Republic Street, Rabat (2779 9100, www.thedukehotelgozo.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 209

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Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz

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Quaint Boutique Hotels Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa

Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa

Maria Giovanna Guesthouse

The popular Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa is a firm favourite among locals and tourists alike, and it’s easy to see why. Built on an extensive and luxurious estate upon Gozo’s highest point, this isolated hotel offers two outdoor swimming pools, a lagoon-style pool within the spa, and a highly-rated eatery – Il-Kantra Lido – enjoying stunning sea views.

This authentic Gozitan guesthouse is situated just a stone’s throw from the pretty Marsalforn promenade. Its 15 air-conditioned bedrooms are furnished with rustic iron beds and antique furniture, while the inviting courtyard is perfect for guests to relax in the Gozo sunshine.

Sannat (2219 1000, www.tacenc.com)

Murella

Il-Logga Boutique Hotel This pretty, family-run boutique hotel aims to provide guests with a truly Mediterranean experience. The rooms are spacious, bright and well-equipped, with balconies or terraces that make the most of the stunning views. An authentic taste of the Med may also be found at the onsite restaurant. Church Street, Xaghra (2155 1210, www.illogga.com)

Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz Located in a picturesque valley, the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz is a five-star hideaway resort that offers excellent levels of service, luxury and comfort. Beyond the 140 rooms and spacious suites, the relaxation and pampering continue through the in-house spa and vast surrounding gardens and extensive pools. Ir-Rokon Street, San Lawrenz (2211 0000, www.kempinski.com/gozo) 210 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

41, Rabat Road, Marsalforn (2155 3630, www.tamariagozo.com)

This unique accommodation’s 24 rooms are individually designed according to themes inspired by local sights and traditional Maltese motifs. They feature beautiful touches such as designer lamps and ornate rugs, and each room is fully-equipped with all modern amenities. 19, Bakery Street, Marsalforn (2155 0340, www.murellaliving.com)

Quaint Boutique Hotels The village core location of this aptly-named hotel in Nadur has inspired the design of each of its 12 rooms, with minimalist and antique furniture contrasting with the hotel’s traditional façade. Guests can also look forward to a delicious home-cooked English or continental breakfast. The Quaint chain of hotels also boasts several other locations on the islands, which can be viewed on its website. 13th December Street, Nadur (2210 8500, www.quainthotelsgozo.com)