Time Out Malta & Gozo 2013/14

Your essential guide to the idyllic Mediterranean islands

2013/14 timeout.com

Malta & Gozo FOR VISITORS

500 TOP

€7.99/£5.99

Restaurants | Sights | Shops | Clubs | Beaches Official partners

4 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

www.timeout.com

Publishers

Contents

Content House Ltd, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Mriehel QRM3000 Malta Tel: +356 2132 0713 Fax: +356 2132 0714 Email: info@contenthouse.com.mt www.contenthouse.com.mt Managing Directors Jesmond Bonello, Isabel Depasquale Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000 www.timeout.com

Editorial

See p6.

Editor Isabel Depasquale Deputy Editor Jo Caruana Contributors Chiara Bonello, Jesmond Bonello, Jo Caruana, Isabel Depasquale, Sarah Micallef Research and Proofreading Content House Ltd

Advertising

Advertising Sales Content House Ltd Publication Sales Manager Leigh Pisani Advertising Sales Executives Rachel Baldacchino, Kathleen Pearson, Diane Scerri

Design

Design and Art Direction Switch Design and Brand Strategy Designer Christiane Stelberg

Photography

Victor Paul Borg, Alan Carville, Lionel Galea, Brian Grech, Malta Tourism Authority, Matthew Mirabelli, Rene Rossignaud Cover Photography Brian Grech Maps JS Graphics Ltd (john@jsgraphics.co.uk) Malta and Gozo maps are based on material supplied by ITMB Publishing and the Sliema map is based on material supplied by Netmaps Printed and bound by Gutenberg Press

Time Out Group

Chairman-Founder Tony Elliott Chief Executive Officer Aksel van der Wal Chief Commercial Officer David Pepper Group IT Director Simon Chappell International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins Content House Ltd would like to thank the management of the Malta Tourism Authority, Esprit, Arrigo Group, Malta Sotheby’s International Realty, Villa Bologna and Mamo Trustees. A special thanks is also extended to the management of Time Out Group and to all the advertisers, editorial team, advertising executives, contributors and designers. © Copyright Time Out Group Limited 2013 All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in the guide, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors it may contain.

See p83.

See p93.

Features

Out and about

6

19 Valletta

Malta in focus What’s new in the Maltese islands

8

Dates for your diary Our pick of the best events unfolding in 2013/14

10 Don’t miss The 10 best things to do and see during your stay

13 Your place in the sun?

It’s become easier than ever for non-EU nationals to own property in Malta

16 For the love of food The local foodie revolution

20 Overview and sightseeing 27 Where to eat 32 Where to drink 35 Shopping 39 Arts and entertainment 39 Where to stay

43 St Julian’s 44 Overview and sightseeing 44 Where to eat 53 Where to drink 53 Shopping 55 Nightlife 55 Arts and entertainment 56 Where to stay

61 The Three Cities 62 Overview and sightseeing 64 Where to eat 66 Where to drink 66 Arts and entertainment

69 Sliema

The cover was shot at Cafe Del Mar Malta, Malta National Aquarium Complex, St Paul’s Bay, Qawra

70 Overview and sightseeing 70 Where to eat 74 Where to drink 77 Shopping 81 Where to stay

83 Mdina & Rabat 84 Overview and sightseeing 86 Where to eat 90 Where to drink 90 Nightlife 90 Where to stay

93 Bugibba & Mellieha 94 Overview and sightseeing 94 Where to eat 98 Where to drink 98 Nightlife 98 Arts and entertainment 98 Where to stay

101 Gozo & Comino 102 Overview and sightseeing 106 Where to eat 111 Where to drink 111 Shopping 112 Nightlife 112 Arts and entertainment 112 Where to stay

117 Essentials 117 Resources 118 Getting around 121 Maps: Malta 122 Maps: Gozo

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 5

Photo: Matthew Mirabelli

Malta in Focus

De Valette Square and Old Opera House

Fortifications Interpretation Centre

Photo: Matthew Mirabelli

Photo: Matthew Mirabelli

Photo: Brian Grech

New Parliament Building

Newly restored bastions

The changing face of the capital The fantastic world heritage site is being given a stunning makeover

M

alta’s capital, Valletta, built by the Order of the Knights of St John to serve as their seat and to house their grand palaces and institutions, has always been an architectural gem.

And now, particularly following the recent confirmation that it will be European Capital of Culture in 2018, the city is experiencing a major facelift.

Of course all that starts with major works, and you’d be forgiven for dismissing Valletta’s current entrance as a building site. Now in its third year, the City Gate Project is undoubtedly going to bring about the biggest change of all. Led by internationally renowned architect Renzo Piano, the project aims to transform the main entrance by

creating a coherent scheme for the whole area – encompassing the bombed-out Opera House (which has lain in ruins since World War II), the entrance into the city and the design of a new Parliament building.

Additionally, the Triton Fountain just outside the entrance to the city will be encased in a huge, new pedestrian pjazza. It is hoped that this will give visitors a spot where they can enjoy the view of ‘new’ Valletta, including Republic Street. Meanwhile, the popular monti (or market) is also making a move and plans are in place to relocate it from Merchants Street to its new home on Ordnance Street. The stalls are going to be given a matching makeover too, with a more uniform approach being taken

6 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

across the board.

Piazza de Valette is another new corner – or square – of the city that has enjoyed some attention. Located between Zachary Street and the Old Opera House, it was inaugurated on 21 November 2012 as part of the ongoing restoration works, and now pays homage to the capital’s founding father, Grand Master Jean de Valette.

In his honour, a 2.5-metre-high silicon bronze statue now stands proudly in this spot. It is the work of Maltese sculptor Joseph Chetcuti and shows the city’s founder wearing armour and holding the city’s plan in one hand and the sword of victory in the other.

All around the city, Valletta’s incredible bastions have also

been given a little ‘tlc’. They have been cleaned and restored, repairing damage and revealing unique features. Various internal spaces within the restored ramparts will also be opened to the public, including casemates, powder magazines, tunnels and passageways. Beyond that, the recently launched Fortifications Interpretation Centre (see p24) is offering more insight than ever into this fascinating aspect of Malta’s heritage.

The new breakwater, in the Grand Harbour, is another sight to behold. It was inaugurated in July 2012, almost 71 years to the day after the original structure was destroyed by an Italian torpedo attack in World War II. With thousands of tourists entering the Grand Harbour on cruise ships every year, this breakwater has added another landmark to the vista that confirms Valletta to be one of the finest harbours in the Mediterranean.

Finally, yet another project is set to put its mark on the capital in the coming years – the regeneration of Fort St Elmo.

The €15.5 million project will encompass the renovation of the fort, the Carafa Enceinte (the outer parts of the fort) and Lower St Elmo (where parts of the 1978 film ‘Midnight Express’ were filmed). Completion is expected some time in 2014, around the same time that the whole of Valletta hopes to unveil its brilliant new look – it’s been a long time coming!

A century later the Barrakka lift is reinstated

... to help you cruise through your trip

The Barrakka Lift before...

B

ridging the distance between Valletta’s waterfront and the capital city’s centre had been a hot topic for many years. It all started in 1900, when the government of the day realised that, due to the increase in maritime activity in the Grand Harbour, the chasm between the seafront and the buzzing city centre would have to be linked. There only seemed to be one viable solution.

“And a lift was it,” says Damian Vella Lenicker, the senior projects architect and civil engineer for the Grand Harbour Regeneration Corporation, discussing the historic lift that was put in place to help locals make their way around the city. “After much deliberation and hard work, it was inaugurated in 1905 and

Photo: Matthew Mirabelli

Island apps

Photo: gov.mt

Going up!

enjoyed substantial patronage for a considerable period.”

But times change and, in 1973, when cars had replaced carriages and walking, and the presence of the Royal Navy in Malta was decreasing, there seemed to be no real function for the lift at all. “The structure was dismantled the following year,” Vella Lenicker continues.

Fast forward a few years, though, and the recent revival of the Valletta waterfront as a bustling commercial quarter had, again, birthed the need for a lift.

Following Malta’s accession to the EU in 2004, funding for a new lift under the European Regional Development Fund was provided in 2009.

This new Barrakka Lift, standing at an impressive 60 metres

Malta Culture Guide This app locates cultural highlights on a map and provides images and practical information.

... and today

height, is now the second tallest structure in Malta and was inaugurated in December 2012.

Quick and efficient, it can accommodate 21 people in each of its two cabins and takes just 25 seconds of picturesque travel to bridge the 52-metre gap.

The €2.5m lift is now the easiest way to get from the Lower Barrakka, where a fully operational battery resides, and the Upper Barrakka Gardens, where you’re guaranteed some of the most beautiful views of the Grand Harbour and beyond. It also allows for a quick getaway from the bustling streets of Valletta’s core to the relaxed bars, shops and restaurants on the waterfront.

Eat by the beach Seaside eating – from greasy to gourmet

G

one are the days of the greasy burger and oily chips from the kiosk parked on the edge of the beach as the only option for grabbing a bite by the sea. In recent years, beach bars and lidos have upped the ante. As they are increasingly giving more importance to design, good food, quality and contemporary decor, stopping for lunch in between swims has become a decidedly classier affair.

The restaurant at Baia Beach Club in Mellieha (pictured, see p96), one of the pioneers of this revolution, focuses on serving local, fresh produce, with a menu prepared by Sicilian chefs and comprising the likes of pepata di cozze, fritto misto and even New Zealand rib-eye, complemented by a carefully selected wine list.

Agliolio (see p94), situated at Golden Bay, similarly offers a great selection of traditional Italian and Mediterranean fare, with delicious pasta dishes including

meatballs and local rabbit liver to a variety of pizzas, fish and meat dishes using certified USDA Angus beef. And seating is on a great-looking, expansive terrace with incredible sea views.

The à la carte menu at Munchies, right on the sand on the other side of Golden Bay, also boasts a vast selection of food that you wouldn’t expect at any old beach club. From pasta with clams, king prawns or even sea urchins to a wide selection of salads and fresh fish, the menu is a far cry from fast food territory. Pizza that is certainly not to be considered junk food is found at Margo’s (see p96), across the beach at Mistra Bay. With a self-proclaimed goal of creating the best pizza in the world, this is where you’ll find the most expensive pizza on the island, which includes white truffles flown in from Piemonte

and 24 carat gold leaf, costing a minimum of €1,800 depending on the market price of truffles.

Further along the coast, Paradise Bay Lido, perched atop its namesake, offers a vast and wonderfully tasty menu including barbecued grills, fresh fish, Mediterranean dishes, pizza and pasta, while, when it comes to luxurious decor by the water’s edge, Paranga at St George’s Bay in St Julian’s has a fresh and contemporary design that creates a stylish setting and complements the excellent food.

So, the next time you get a little peckish after a nice swim, forget about hastily prepared frozen food – from gourmet pizza to quality meat and freshly caught seafood, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

Malta Dining A map points you to restaurants, bars and cafés around Malta and Gozo, also providing information about cuisines, atmosphere, price range and opening hours.

Malta Info A useful app aimed at helping you find your way around the islands by suggesting the best places to visit and sights to see.

Malta Mass The Curia’s Mass app makes it easy to find your nearest church in Malta and provides updates on churches and mass times.

Malta Wi-Fi This handy app pinpoints open spaces, cafés, bars and restaurants with free Wi-Fi on a map.

My Maltese Guide Information about the best pubs, restaurants and attractions around Malta is at hand.

You can also get discounts and offers on presentation of the app.

Next Gozo Ferry This travel app lets commuters know when the next ferry will be departing Malta or Gozo.

Sotheby’s International Realty® Fancy owning a part of the island? This easy-to-use GPS-enabled app can help you find a house to buy in Malta or Gozo. It allows you to search for luxury homes and real estate, and to take a virtual tour.

VisitMalta Destination Guide A comprehensive mobile guide to the Maltese islands, including general information, activities, an interactive map and an updated calendar of events.

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 7

Patches Market

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella Photo: viewingmalta.com/Mario Galea

Dates for your diary

The Malta International Airshow Besides an exhibition of airplanes, both military and civilian, pilots from around the world take to the skies for a spectacular display.

Malta International Airport, Luqa (9947 1429, www.maltairshow. com). Date 28-29 Sept.

Rolex Middlesea Race

October Malta International Fireworks Festival

The islands through the year Events to look out for during your stay

All year

September 2013

In Guardia Portraying an authentic event which took place regularly inside Fort St Elmo, complete with changing of the guard, manning of posts, orders of the day, musketry and gunnery drill, parade fall-in and the presentation of arms and colours, this historical re-enactment portrays the inspection of the fort and its garrison (around 70 in all) by the Grand Bailiff of the Order of the Knights of St John in charge of military affairs to verify the garrison’s state of readiness in the event of a military threat.

Starts at 11am and lasts around 40mins, weather permitting.

St John’s Cavalier, Vittoriosa (2123 7747, www.visitmalta. com). Date Most Sundays end Sept onwards and up to mid July.

Victory Day Commemorating four important occasions for the Maltese islands, 8 September marks the birth of the Blessed Virgin, as well as the end of the 1565 siege against the Turks, the capitulation of the French in 1800 and the end of the siege by the Axis powers in 1943. A keenly contested traditional rowing boat regatta is organised at the Grand Harbour in the afternoon, and evening festivities celebrating the feast of Our Lady are held in Senglea, Naxxar and Mellieha in Malta, and Xaghra in Gozo.

Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo. Date 8 Sept.

Alarme!

Narrating the story of the arrival of the French troops in Malta, their ensuing attempt to impose a Republican government, the Maltese rebellion and their surrender to the British troops in 1800, this re-enactment in period costume promises to keep you enthralled for the full 45mins.

St John’s Cavalier, Vittoriosa (2123 7747, www.visitmalta. com). Date 2nd or 3rd Sun Sept-Nov, Feb-July.

The Qala International Folk Festival Folk music, song and dance are the order of the day at this international festival which commemorates and aims to revive local traditions, such as children’s games, and also features a re-enactment of a traditional wedding.

Qala, Gozo (www.qala.gov.mt).

Date 19-22 Sept.

A night in Casal Fornaro The village of Qormi is renowned for its bread-making and its customs and traditions are

8 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Zejt iz-Zejtun Held to welcome the olive-picking season, this event is set in one of the oldest villages in the south of Malta and features olive-pressing demonstrations, pageantry, crafts exhibitions and other activities.

Olives and their different by-products are also on sale.

Zejtun (zejtun.lc@gov.mt). Date 28-29 Sept.

celebrated during this festival.

Casal Fornaro, literally translated as ‘village of the baker’, is what Qormi was known as in days gone by. Entertainment includes drama, traditional shows, traditional songs, folkloristic dance, artistic displays and agricultural exhibitions.

Qormi (kzbqormi@gmail.com).

Date 20-21 Sept.

Independence Day On 21 September 1964 Malta gained its political independence from Britain. Various activities are held every year to mark this important date in Maltese history. (info@maltaculture.com). Date 21 Sept.

BOV Valletta Boat Show This annual four-day event is Malta’s largest boat show and takes place at one of the world’s most iconic natural ports.

Boilers’ Wharf, Senglea (info@ emanpulis.com). Date 26-29 Sept.

Opera Gala di Verdi e Wagner Several artists, accompanied by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra, will celebrate the 200th anniversary of Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner. Time: 8pm.

Grand Master Suite, Hilton, Portomaso (www.ticketline.com. mt). Date 27 Sept.

Notte Bianca On this one night an assortment of entertainment livens up the streets and cultural venues of Valletta, while state palaces and museums open their doors all night to delight patrons with visual art exhibitions and theatre performances, and the streets and pjazzas showcase some of the finest local and international musicians and dancers. Most restaurants are open all night.

Valletta (2123 2515, www. nottebiancamalta.com). Date 5 Oct. Mdina Grand Prix Participants from across the world descend annually on Mdina to take part in this spectacular motorsport competition.

Mdina (2145 0707, www. mdinacouncil.com). Date 10-13 Oct. Birgufest Set in the beautiful maritime city of Vittoriosa, this three-day event sees its streets and narrow lanes lit up with soft candlelight, highlighting the city’s historic and architectural beauty. Various activities are organised – from historic re-enactments to cheaper museum entrances and food stalls offering traditional Maltese food.

Vittoriosa (2166 2166, www. birgu.gov.mt). Date 11-13 Oct. Falstaff Verdi’s last opera, Falstaff, will be performed to mark the composer’s 200th birthday.

Teatru Aurora, Gozo. Date 12 Oct. The Malta Military Tattoo The 2013 edition of the Malta Military Tattoo will once again feature foreign military bands and local massed pipes and drums bands, the Malta Police Precision Drill team, the Malta Police Band

breakfasts are served in most restaurants across Malta and Gozo. Parties are also organised in various venues and advertised amply in local papers, on billboards and other media.

Date 24 Dec. New Year’s Eve Welcome the New Year in style at one of the many parties and events organised across the islands. Whether you prefer an exclusive or private party, or a romantic meal with your other half, there is an endless list of options for ways to spend this special night of the year.

Date 31 Dec.

The Rolex Middle Sea Race This spectacular race starts from the Grand Harbour in the waters opposite the Saluting Battery in Valletta and Fort St Angelo in Vittoriosa, continues along the coast of Sicily and other islands, including the Aeolian and Egadi islands, and Lampedusa, and Valletta International Baroque finishes at Marsamxett Harbour.

Festival (2133 3109, www.

Intended to celebrate rolexmiddlesearace.

Valletta’s baroque com). Date 19-26 identity, this Oct. festival, held We have done our utmost over two weeks, to ensure the details listed sees the capital Otello here are correct, but dates resound with Another of change and events can be Giuseppe Verdi’s music from the cancelled. Check www. operas, Otello, will period when it visitmalta.com for was built. be performed, this updates. time at Teatru Astra, Valletta (valletta. to mark the 200th lc@gov.mt). Date anniversary of the 10-26 Jan. composer’s birth.

Teatru Astra, Gozo. Date 24 and 26 Oct.

January 2014

online

February

December Patches Market The Patches Market is an excellent initiative that brings together artisan and craftspeople under one roof to display and sell their hand-crafted products which range from jewellery to ceramics, cup cakes and so much more.

The Christmas edition presents the perfect opportunity to purchase a unique locally made and contemporary item.

Magazino Hall, Valletta Waterfront (www.patchesmarket. com). Date 1 Dec. Republic Day On 13 December 1974 the Maltese Constitution was amended and Malta became a republic. Activities marking this historic date take place every year, mostly in Valletta. (info@maltaculture.com). Date 13 Dec. Christmas Eve Midnight mass often starts the celebration of Christmas among locals, followed by a full Christmas breakfast. The best midnight mass ceremonies are held on Christmas Eve at St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina and at the Mosta Dome, while generous

The Voca People An ensemble of eight talented musician-actors – three female (alto, mezzo, and soprano) and three male singers (bass, baritone, tenor), together with two beat box artists who create extraordinary sounds, come together to form an entire orchestra without musical instruments. The show will feature a number of all-time favourites including 5th Symphony by Beethoven, The Magic Flute by Mozart, Tutti Frutti by Richard Wayne, Fever by John Davenport and Billie Jean by Michael Jackson among others.

Malta Fairs and Conventions Centre, Ta’ Qali (info@mfcc.com. mt). Date 21-23 Feb. Carnival Carnival in Malta is synonymous with revelry and good fun.

Massive, colourful floats, that are unfailingly accompanied by loud music and enthusiastic supporters, parade through the streets of Valletta and Floriana.

The carnival festivities in Nadur, Gozo, are one-of-a kind with a heavy dose of satirical displays, egged on by traditional bands and street performances.

Valletta, Floriana, Gozo and other villages (www.visitmalta.com).

Date 28 Feb-4 Mar.

April Good Friday During the late afternoon of this public holiday some 17 different towns and villages commemorate the Passion of the Christ by organising very solemn processions with statues depicting the last hours of Christ’s life. Processions also feature participants dressed as biblical characters and in some cases include men bearing a cross and sometimes dragging chains tied to their bare feet as a form of penitence.

Date 18 Apr. Malta International Fireworks Festival During this spectacular festival, a dazzling display of fireworks lights up the sky. Malta’s magnificent Grand Harbour will once again provide the perfect backdrop for this increasingly popular event.

Grand Harbour, Valletta (2291 5136, www.visitmalta.com). Date last wk Apr.

June Isle of MTV Rita Ora, Jessie J and Rudimental were the stars of last year’s Isle of MTV concert which has become an annual fixture in the island’s calendar of events since 2006. Previous artists who performed here include Canadian pop star Nelly Furtado, American rapper Flo Rida and Will.i.am, of Black Eyed Peas fame, as well as Lady Gaga and Snoop Dogg.

Entrance is free and on a first come, first served basis.

The Granaries, Floriana. Date to be confirmed.

Mnarja One of the oldest traditional festivities on the Maltese islands, the feast commemorates two important saints, St Peter and St Paul. Music, open-air dancing and singing, as well as horse and donkey races keep visitors entertained for hours. Maltese food and wine are served throughout the day and night, and an agrarian fair, displaying the produce of Maltese farmers, also forms part of the festivities.

Buskett Gardens. Date 29 June.

August Feast of the Assumption The feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, more commonly known among locals as Santa Marija, is celebrated in various villages across the islands, including Mqabba, Qrendi, Gudja, Ghaxaq, Attard,

Mosta in Malta and Rabat in Gozo. The largest celebrations are held in Mosta and Rabat, followed by Qrendi and Ghaxaq.

Thousands of Maltese flock to Gozo for a few days to celebrate the feast.

Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo. Date 15 Aug.

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

and the Armed Forces of Malta Band. This year’s foreign bands will include the Southern Jacobites Pipes and Drums (UK), the Emerald Isle Irish Dance Company (Ireland), the National Band of the Army Cadet Force (UK) and Marktmusikkapelle Gamlitz (Austria). Performances start at 6pm.

Malta Fairs and Conventions Centre, Ta’ Qali (www. maltamilitarytattoo.org). Date 12-13 Oct.

In Guardia

Public holidays Our Lady of Victories 8 Sept 2013 Independence Day 21 Sept 2013 Immaculate Conception 8 Dec 2013 Republic Day 13 Dec 2013 Christmas Day 25 Dec 2013 New Year’s Day 1 Jan 2014 St Paul’s Shipwreck 10 Feb 2014 The Feast of St Joseph 19 Mar 2014 Good Friday 18 Apr 2014 Freedom Day 31 Mar 2014 Labour Day 1 May 2014 Sette Giugno 7 June 2013 St Peter and St Paul (L-Imnarja) 29 June 2014 The Assumption of Our Lady (Santa Marija) 15 Aug 2014

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 9

Xlendi, Gozo

Our pick of the best the Maltese islands have to offer – no visit is complete without them

1

See the sites The Maltese islands have a rich history dating back several thousand years. As a result, they are dotted with numerous captivating sites. Among them is the beautiful capital city of Valletta – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – built by the Knights of St John.

Explore its architectural gems during the day and later discover its many restaurants, cafés and bars, mainly found in its narrow streets. Another site that should be factored into every itinerary is the charming, fortified town of Mdina, also known as the Silent City. A walk through the ex-capital’s cobbled streets will give you a glimpse of the grand buildings in which most of the island’s nobility still reside. Additionally, the islands boast a number of prehistoric megalithic sites that are among the most ancient religious sites on earth, even pre-dating Britain’s Stonehenge. These include the 5,000-year-old megalithic temple complexes of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, the Tarxien temples and Ghar Dalam – an ancient cave in which the earliest evidence of human settlement in Malta was found.

2

Go to the beach After its rich history, Malta is best known for its beautiful weather, which lasts throughout most of the year. This makes it perfect for a day at one of its picturesque beaches. Whether you’re a fan of sandy beaches or prefer to dive into the depths from the rocks, the islands boast a variety of bathing spots. Choose between popular sandy beaches like Golden Bay, Gnejna, Paradise

Bay, Mellieha Bay and Ramla l-Hamra in Gozo and rocky but equally pretty Peter’s Pool, Ghar Lapsi, Fomm ir-Rih and Blue Grotto, among others.

Alternatively, if the sea isn’t your thing, you may spend a day at one of the many lush lidos, taking a dip in the pool, enjoying lunch at the restaurant and kicking back in the sun.

3

Visit the other islands The smaller island of Gozo is quieter than Malta, and offers a quaint escape. Head over to the sister island for its countryside, beaches (such as the scenic Ramla l-Hamra, Marsalforn and Xlendi Bay) and heritage sites, including the historic Citadel, which dates back to c1,500 BC. The smallest island of the three is Comino, and despite often being quite packed in the summer months, is worth a day visit, particularly for a dip in the crystal-clear waters of the Blue Lagoon.

4

Celebrate the sea The beautiful Mediterranean Sea is not just for swimming, but can be taken advantage of in a number of ways, from glimpsing the depths on a diving excursion to all manner of water sports or chartering a yacht or boat. Have a go at windsurfing, kayaking, water-skiing, wakeboarding or paragliding, hire a jet-ski or charter a yacht for an afternoon, evening or entire day at sea.

5

Village feasts The summer months mean feast season in Malta, and a visit to one of the traditional religious feasts or festi is a must to

10 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

enjoy the extravagant festoons, firework displays, band marches, processions, street parties and food stalls. Every village celebrates its devotion for its patron saint in grand style, and the festa is the main event on most villages’ cultural calendar.

6

Go to the market If you love exploring market stalls in search of fresh produce, clothing or trinkets to take home with you, a visit to one of the morning markets around Malta cannot be missed. Most villages hold their own market on a specific day of the week, but notable ones include the flea market held in Vittoriosa on Sunday mornings, as well as Marsaxlokk’s fresh fish (and other bits and bobs) market, also held on Sundays.

7

Dine al fresco The superb Mediterranean cuisine of the islands is best enjoyed al fresco in the summer months, ideally with a beautiful country view or charming village square as a backdrop, or a few metres away from the sea, accompanied with an ice-cold drink.

8

Made in Malta Make the most of your time in Malta by trying out local delights including pastizzi (flaky cheesecakes), gbejniet (cheeselets), bigilla (bean paste) and qubbajt (nougat), washed down with favourite local beverages like Cisk beer and Hopleaf ale or nonalcoholic Kinnie. If you love them as much as we do, you can even have a taste of Malta delivered to

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Paolo Meitre Liberatini

Ghajn Tuffieha Bay

Photo: Ministry for Gozo/Paul Scicluna

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

Don’t miss

your home, as Farsons’ products are now available online on Amazon. If you’re more of a wine connoisseur, taste the best local varieties at wineries like Meridiana in Malta and Tal-Massar in Gozo.

And you cannot leave without taking home a local souvenir. Your best bet is to visit the Ta’ Qali Crafts Village in Malta or the Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village in Gozo or one of the many souvenir shops selling anything from mouth-blown glass to hand-painted ceramics, for an authentic keepsake of your time on the islands.

9

Open-air partying As the weather gets hotter, local event organisers take the party outside to one of the islands’ outdoor venues, making the most of the balmy summer evenings. Whether it’s clubbing, an evening of jazz or kicking back to watch a live band you’re after, there’s plenty to do on Maltese summer nights under the stars.

10

Take in the natural beauty There are various picturesque locations around the Maltese islands that are perfect for exploring on foot. Nature lovers can put on their hiking boots and discover the dramatic cliffs of Dingli and Mellieha, and the fertile valleys and rocky scrubland around the islands, not forgetting picturesque hiking locations in Gozo including San Lawrenz, Hondoq ir-Rummien and the San Blas valley.

Enjoy your

Holiday.

Shopping

can wait.

Find the brands you know and love on your way home, at Malta International Airport.

www.maltairport.com

Photo: Rene Rossignaud

Your place in the sun?

The recent residency scheme has made it easier than ever for non-EU nationals to buy property in Malta – which strengthens investment opportunities across the islands for everyone. So, as Jo Caruana discovers, now could be the perfect time to make your move

A

re you thinking of buying a place in the sun? Well, those looking for a stable, sunny European market to invest in – or to move to – should definitely consider Malta, especially in light of the new Global Residency Programme that now makes it easier than ever for people from all over the world to buy property here.

After all, the island has a wonderful selection of low, medium and high-end properties that suit people from all walks of life interested in buying a second home or investment, and to supplement it with an excellent Mediterranean lifestyle.

This new programme, launched in June this year, substantially improves on the previous HNWI scheme for non-EU nationals – not least because it does away with the hefty €500,000

bond that was required, lowers the minimum tax due for applicants and their dependants, and lowers the minimum purchase price or yearly rental amount.

Before this scheme was introduced, the minimum property spend was €400,000, but that has now been reduced to €225,000 for properties in the south and in Gozo, and €275,000 for properties in northern and central areas. Meanwhile, the minimum rates have also gone down for those wishing to rent.

The programme also means that, in light of the expected surge in investment, Malta will be more attractive than ever to people from within the EU as well, as it will increase the value of property on the island more than ever.

“This programme is targeted at individuals who have amassed a certain wealth throughout

their life and are now looking to obtain residency both for the tax advantages and the lifestyle they can avail themselves of,” says Ian Casolani, chairman of the Real Estate section within the Malta Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Enterprise.

“Most people don’t realise just how attractive Malta has become, with top executives of some of the largest global companies, renowned scientists and cultural leaders all currently enjoying permanent residency status here. So the islands are certainly doing something right!”

In fact, the islands are fast becoming known internationally for their quality of living and fantastic Mediterranean lifestyle. “There’s lots to love about living here, so as long as incentives like this one are made use of as they

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 13

w h y m a lta ?

Read on...

are intended to, then an initiative like this Global Residence Programme can add value to Malta’s economy in general,” continues Mr Casolani.

“If marketed correctly, the fact that the island is now much more accessible to non-EU nationals will most likely help reattract foreigners from certain parts of the world who were, in the past, already attracted to Malta under the original Permanent Residence Scheme.”

Fortunately, there are also many different property options to draw people from all over the world, and this ticks another box.

Increasingly, foreign buyers are looking for an ‘easy’ option, such as one of the upmarket lifestyle developments like Portomaso, Tigné Point or Tas-Sellum, with their sea-view apartments or penthouses and communal facilities. These options are particularly attractive as they offer more security to those not planning to live in their property all year round; plus the maintenance of their property is handled by

third parties and quality kept high.

Alternatively, though, there are more traditional options too, such as seafront apartments in smaller blocks, houses of character, countryside farmhouses and villas with their own private swimming pools and facilities.

“Whatever it is, people will find what they’re looking for here – and there’re so much that goes along with that.

“Malta really doesn’t need large volumes of foreigners to keep the property market healthy, therefore a number of these ‘right kind’ of permanent residents will continue to fuel the rental and sale of property on the island.

This will, in turn, continue to create a spill-off into various other sectors of the economy as those moving here need to furnish their homes, rent or buy cars, dine and entertain themselves.

“The list goes on and on, and all of that will, hopefully, make Malta stronger than ever, and a stronger investment than ever,” Mr Casolani adds.

Top executives of some of the largest global companies, renowned scientists and cultural leaders are currently enjoying permanent residency status here

Photo: Rene Rossignaud

Photo: Rene Rossignaud

Now that it is easier and more feasible for everyone to buy property in Malta, are you considering a move? Well, if you’re still on the fence, here are a few reasons to help make your decision simpler!

1

A central hub Just over an hour from mainland Europe and three hours from London, Malta is very easy to travel to. Low-cost airlines have also made it cheaper than ever to use the island as a base, with some professionals even choosing to commute over to the sunshine at weekends!

2

It’s a good investment Despite the international crisis, Malta has fared rather well economically and is still going strong. Although most locals choose to buy their homes, there is a fast-growing rental market, which means it could be the ideal time for you to purchase a buy-to-let.

3

A safe haven Malta remains one of the safest countries in Europe with a low crime rate. This means that you could enjoy a sense of freedom that is, sadly, now unheard of in other parts of the world. The islands also enjoy excellent healthcare services, whether in the main hospitals or in one of the village clinics.

4 Photo: Alan Carville

Speaking your language As English is one of the official languages here, you should be able to communicate quite effortlessly. The majority of the population speaks English, while most government and commercial business is effected in English (as well as Maltese) too.

14 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

5

Affordable living There’s no denying that prices here have gone up in recent years, but the cost of living remains quite affordable when compared with many of Europe’s larger cities. The good news is that the islands enjoy many cosmopolitan facilities – such as top quality hotels, restaurants and entertainment venues – without the accompanying high price tag.

Quadro. See p50.

For the love of food

Over the past few years, the restaurant scene in Malta has undergone somewhat of a transformation, with more establishments placing greater emphasis on creativity, design, quality and local produce. Sarah Micallef looks into this tasty development

F

or every couple of restaurants that have popped into existence within the last year or so, at least one of them has that unmistakeable aura of having been designed by someone other than their accountant,” says the islands’ main newspaper’s restaurant critic who goes by ‘Ed Eats’.

Gone are the days of haphazard dining spaces and photocopied menus as restaurateurs up their game while also focusing on consistent food and service quality.

But is this at the expense of losing some of our traditional Maltese character? “In some cases we have,” he reflects, “while others are putting time and money into retaining and often

reviving traditional Maltese food, so I suppose balance is being maintained.”

Every significant change has a cause and effect. Edward believes the causes behind the shift are varied, holding “all the clichés” responsible. “The shrinking planet, the increasingly connected world, the megatons of food content streamed to us on cable – in short, everything that has introduced diners to the way the world is consuming food and the corresponding drive by restaurant owners to provide that.”

Because of this, he explains, the local food scene is shifting towards a less overtly commercial and a more responsible approach to food, thus rekindling the appreciation for

16 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

local, seasonal produce. To this end, he comments, “we’re lucky to have plenty of variety on our tiny islands. Seeing our own produce take centre stage in our cuisine again is heart-warming.” Indeed, this increased appreciation of local produce not only directly contributes to our economy, but also means that ingredients travel less and taste the way they should.

Is there any particular type of cuisine that has impressed him recently, I ask? Edward maintains, “I’m always impressed by cuisine that achieves harmony of flavour, delights the olfactory, soothes the soul and somehow still manages to surprise me. This is elusive, but, happily, not restricted to fine dining. A great

Chophouse. See p73.

chef can achieve all I mentioned within a humble burger.” He says that he has recently been surprised by cuisine that isn’t too far from home, making reference to the resurgence of interest in traditional methods and seeing these benefit from a 21st century perspective.

Aside from the food, there also appears to be more awareness of different varieties of wine locally, with wine lists becoming lengthier and wine bars popping up everywhere. In light of this, Edward laments that despite growing vines for wine production for centuries, the Maltese previously always considered

Legligin. See p32.

imported wine to be better than our own.

Times are changing however, he says, with viticulture and the vinification process itself having developed remarkably over the last decade, meaning that we’re producing wines that hold their own against imported counterparts. “Our unique climate, soil, and even indigenous grape varieties are now yielding wines of exceptional quality and consistency. And with this, there is a rapid increase in interest in wines.” So much so, he goes on to mention, that our better wines are purchased and appreciated by wine-lovers who

travel to Malta and know that no true understanding of a country can be complete without tasting its wines.

Despite the fact that the local restaurant scene has made giant quality steps in the past years, Edward envisions even greater things in the future. He believes that more diversity could give Malta a primary position on the culinary map, stating, “there are a few chefs who are taking a wholly novel approach to our traditional cuisine, and this is an area that I believe can make our kitchen stand out and possibly gain international acclaim.”

LO C AL F OO D IE S Four local restaurant goers have their say on Malta’s restaurant scene Kenneth Zammit Tabona Artist and writer How have you seen the restaurant scene evolving?

The restaurant scene has evolved in leaps and bounds in the last couple of decades. There was a time when going to a restaurant was a great occasion. In the ‘70s, people queued to go to places like fast-food outlet Wimpy. One usually ate at the Casino Maltese or the British Hotel, with ravioli from Malata on Friday and cassatella from Rubino on Sunday respectively. In Gozo it was the Duke of Edinburgh, with home-cooked traditional meals. Because of my military antecedents, we were often also asked to the officers’ mess for a curry, which was more like a Dutch rice table than the Indian food we are used to today.

What is your favourite dish and where is it served?

I love mussels and really enjoy a dishful at Fresco’s in St Julian’s, while Toni’s spaghetti with clams at Sicilia Bar in Valletta is always superb. Cesco’s bragjoli (beef olives) at Da Pippo are (almost) as good as my mother’s, while Chris’s cheese soufflé at Ambrosia is delectable! Julian’s tigiega fgata (chicken dish) at Gululu and any fish at San Giuliano will be cooked to perfection. The assaggi di pesce (fish-based appetisers) at Fumia are a dream, while Lisa’s gaspacho soup at Chez Philippe is just what one wants and needs on a hot summer’s day.

Andrew Borg Cardona Lawyer and opinion writer What do you think has evolved most in the restaurant scene, out of quality, creativity and design?

I think you’ve put the list in the right order. We definitely have high quality stuff available, and some places rank high on the creativity league table, though frankly too many chefs and owners tend to rest on their laurels (maybe there’s something to be said for being consistent, that said). Coming up a poor third, especially when it comes to lighting and seating, is design.

What is your favourite dish and where is it served?

This is a bit like asking me what my favourite song is. If I’m in the mood for metal, it’s ‘Paranoid’, if it’s soft rock it’s ‘Stairway’... you get my point. If it’s dinner in winter and I haven’t eaten all day, it’s currently the (meat) platter tad-Dutch at, rather obviously, Tad-Dutch in Qala, Gozo.

This answer will get me angry looks from Daniel at DVenue, Chris at Ambrosia, the guys at Sicilia Bella and Chez Philippe, and so many other places where I’ve had great meals. It wasn’t my fault, guys, they threatened me.

Peter Grech Advertising agency founder How have you seen the restaurant scene evolving?

Besides the great variety of eateries on the island, I think that there has been a massive shift in the local food scene, whereby chefs are experimenting with local organic, fresh produce fused with more worldly cooking styles to create a unique style of Maltese eats.

What is your favourite dish and where is it served?

Fresh pasta with sea urchins from Trabuxu Bistro in Valletta or Zest’s beef teppanyaki.

Charlotte Stafrace Actress and writer What do you think has evolved most in the restaurant scene out of quality, creativity and design?

I think kitchens are trying to offer a mix, with Mediterranean fusion seeming to be working well. There is an attempt at using local seasonal, fresh produce and mixing it up with different spices and herbs to give it a twist. Design-wise I haven’t noticed much of a change. Few have taken the plunge to be seriously different or to create a ‘look’.

Restaurants instead try to have an edge if they have a bit of a view.

What is your favourite dish and where is it served?

It’s either the mixed fish grill from Water Polo Club in Ta’ Xbiex or barbecued meat done the right way at Chukkas.

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 17

Malta Luxury Escapes To live a life that is full of Grand experiences and Grand sensations. To travel, to explore and discover new influences. Set in a tranquil area near the Historical Capital, Valletta and enjoying stunning views of the Marsamxett Harbour, the Grand Hotel Excelsior will fill your senses with the pleasures of fine hospitality.

Malta is less than three hours away from your home, with direct flights from all major UK airports.

Rates starting from ÂŁ53 per person per night for double room occupancy including sumptuous breakfast buffet. For bookings or information call us on 01489 860161 or email ukoffice@excelsior.com.mt, or book directly online at www.excelsior.com.mt.

18 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

*Terms and Conditions apply

A Member of

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

Valletta Overview and sightseeing 20 Where to eat 27 Where to drink 32 Shopping 35 Arts and entertainment 39 Where to stay 39

Valletta

Valletta

Valletta Waterfront

A baroque gem This stunning UNESCO World Heritage site has so much to offer – from historical sites and attractions, to some of the islands’ best bars, restaurants and shops

T

he capital is in the middle of a makeover – so much so that, if you’ve been before, you may not recognise its entrance. Yes, times here are a-changing, as for the past three years extensive works have been ongoing for its rehabilitation as part of a huge project led by renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano.

This includes the transformation of the Old Opera House, which was extensively bombed by the axis powers during World War II, as well as the construction of a new Parliament building on Freedom Square.

Additionally, City Gate (which was built during the British rule over Malta) was raised to the ground and is currently being constructed from scratch to a new design.

Of course, Valletta – Malta’s baroque city – has often been in a state of change; from the days

when it was built by the Knights of St John as a defence from an impending Turkish invasion, to the devastating attacks that came from the sky during World War II and destroyed some of its gems. Thankfully, most treasures are all still here and should be high on your agenda to visit.

After all, the capital is a welldeserved UNESCO World Heritage Site, with architectural gems to spot on every corner. It is also a shopping and dining mecca, and is particularly busy during the day with shoppers and office workers, but silence falls in the evening as shops pull down their shutters, rendering the capital a beautifully romantic destination for an evening stroll, followed by a candlelit dinner.

Stretching across just 2km at its longest point, and with its grid-like pattern of streets, the capital is easy to navigate, though it could take the best part

20 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

of two days to visit all its sights.

Built by the Knights of St John in the 16th century as their seat of power and residence, the capital is home to magnificent historical buildings, some looking as majestic as they did when they were first built (following meticulous restoration), and others whispering of the glorious days gone by in their abandoned state.

Once you step past and look beyond the entrance (which is the base for all the current works), you are in for a treat.

Head to the main thoroughfares for both cultural and commercial endeavours – the pedestrianised Republic and Merchants Streets.

There are many others worth exploring, of course, including quaint St Ursola Street and Archbishop Street, with its imposing buildings.

Starting off on Republic Street, your first stop should

be the National Museum of Archaeology, displaying artefacts of Malta’s archaeological discoveries. Further down you will come across the world-famous St John’s Co-Cathedral. This church is a masterpiece of baroque art and architecture, and houses precious works of art, including Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’, while the tapestries displayed within its museum, along with many other treasures, are priceless.

One of the best places to enjoy a spot of lunch, and a little bit of people-watching, while being serenaded by a street musician, is Republic Square (also referred to as Pjazza Regina), situated halfway down Republic Street.

Here do not miss the façade of the National Library, which was the last public building erected by the Knights of St John before the island was ceded to Napoleon Bonaparte.

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 21

Valletta

The Grand Master’s Palace is adjacent to the Library, and has been the seat of authority since 1571. Today, the Maltese Parliament (also known as the House of Representatives) is still located there, but is set to move once Piano’s project is completed. In the meantime, enjoy the Palace’s incredible range of historical artefacts, which are open to public viewing.

Then step out into St George’s Square (also referred to as Palace Square), which has recently become an integral city spot in its own right, with dancing fountains, free Wi-Fi and benches to lounge on. As night falls, Malata Restaurant, the only eatery directly on the square, offers an ideal setting to enjoy quality food while soaking up the atmosphere of this spot after dark.

Lovers of art should not miss a visit to the National Museum of Fine Arts a short walk away from the square, where key works by renowned artists like Mattia Preti, Mattias Stomer and Guido Reni are displayed.

Valletta holds a few ‘hidden’ places that provide rest and refuge from the crowds and a break from sightseeing. Hastings Garden affords lovely views of Marsamxett Harbour, while the Upper Barrakka Gardens provide the best vista of the Grand

Harbour, with the p7) and head to the Three Cities in the Valletta Waterfront. background. If It is the ideal you want to place to wrap Valletta is a very cultural rest your feet up a busy day space, with plenty of and grab a of touring, opportunities for theatre lovers to quick bite, sipping a enjoy. Head over to the national head to local refreshing theatre, Teatru Manoel (p29), for favourites drink while opera, drama, musicals and such as admiring large-scale productions, or to St Piadina in St the majestic James Cavalier (p39), for more Lucia Street, Fort St intimate, cutting-edge or Angelica’s in Angelo on the performances.

Archbishop Street. opposite shore of Although some the historic Grand of the old roads in the Harbour. capital are now blocked as part of the restoration works, a quiet amble around the back streets will still prove highly interesting. Look out for the Jesuits Church recently inaugurated de Valette Built between 1592 and 1600, Square by the Old Opera House, and reconstructed after it had as well as the first church built suffered extensive damage in in Valletta, Our Lady of Victories, 1634, this Jesuit church witnessed commemorating the Great Siege the conversion of several British victory over the Turks. Just a few servicemen to the Catholic faith, metres away stands the majestic led by Blessed Nazju Falzon (1813Auberge de Castille, which 1865), one of the first Maltese on houses the Office of the Prime the way to sainthood. It is the first Minister. baroque church on the island and Naturally, a long day of its interior is richly decorated. exploration can work up a hearty Look out for one of Malta’s oldest appetite. Night-time dining in sundials at the back of the church Valletta is a romantic affair and on St Paul Street. Valletta’s other fortunately Valletta offers some sundial is in Republic Street on the high quality restaurants and façade of the Casino Maltese. a few choice bars for drinks.

Merchants Street. Open 6.15amAlternatively, take the newly 12.30pm daily; also 5-8pm Sat. inaugurated Barrakka lift (see Admission free.

theatre time

Churches

Our Lady of Victories Church As the first building and first church in Valletta, Our Lady of Victories is pivotal to Malta’s history. It is equally splendid inside and out, and was built to honour the Knights’ victory over the Turks during the Great Siege, hence its name. Grand Master de Valette was buried here before his remains were transferred to St John’s CoCathedral. The façade, sacristy, belfry and parish priest’s house were enlarged in 1752 to their current size. A monument to the Venetian admiral Angelo Emo, who died in 1792, can be seen here, as well as an altarpiece depicting the birth of the Blessed Virgin Mary and numerous stunning works of art. Restoration work is currently ongoing.

Victory Square. Open 7.30-10am Mon, Wed-Sat; 7.30am-noon Tue; also 6-8pm Sat. Admission free.

St John’s Co-Cathedral If you only visit one church in Malta, make it this one – the worldfamous St John’s Co-Cathedral.

Commissioned in 1572 by Grand Master Jean de la Cassière as the conventual church of the Order, it is one of the most magnificent buildings to be found anywhere on the globe. Designed by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar and completed in 1577, it has a plain façade that hides a lavish interior.

The inner artistic decoration is

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 23

St Paul’s Shipwreck Church This church was first built in 1609, while its façade was finished in 1885. Dedicated to the shipwreck of St Paul in Malta in AD 60, it became a collegiate church in 1773.

Visitors are given a short guided tour on arrival, and the main draws are the wrist-bone of St Paul, which is displayed in an elaborate gold reliquary, and a part of the column to which he was tied when he was beheaded in Rome. Artistic attractions include the altarpiece,

by Italian artist Matteo D’Aleccio, the paintings by Attilio Palombi and Giuseppe Calì, and the titular statue by Melchiorre Gafà.

St Paul Street (2123 6013). Open 7am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; 7am-noon Sun. Admission free.

Photo: viewingmalta.com

recommended Of engineering, architecture and art!

Photo: Victor Paul Borg

Valletta

all down to Italian artist Mattia Preti and the results include the magnificent 18 vignettes in the vault, depicting the life of St John the Baptist. The Co-Cathedral’s artistic value was further enhanced when the eight side chapels were decorated by different langues (regional groupings of knights) that installed monuments and mausoleums to commemorate the Grand Masters. Another priceless treasure within the Co-Cathedral is Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’, completed in 1608 during a brief stint in Malta; it is now considered by many to be one the best paintings of the 17th century. The audio tour is excellent and really helps you to get to know the place, while there’s plenty to learn in the adjacent museum too. Exhibits include priceless Flemish tapestries, silverware, liturgical vestments, illuminated choral books and portraits of knights. Bear in mind that heels and inappropriate dress (shorts for men; short skirts and exposed shoulders for women) are not allowed in the Co-Cathedral.

St John Street (2122 0536).

Open Co-Cathedral and Museum 9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri; 9.30amnoon Sat. Admission Co-Cathedral and Museum €6; €3.50-€4.60 concessions; under-12s free.

T

he Maltese islands boast 60 kilometres of fortifications that, over the centuries, have protected its inhabitants from corsairs, pirates and other terrifying predators. Today, these historic fortifications are celebrated at the recently launched Fortifications Interpretation Centre. The museum treats Malta’s wealth of fortifications as an expression of engineering, architecture and art, rather than a weapon of war. It also serves as a reference area for researchers and enthusiasts, and encompasses artefacts, plans and information from every age in the history of Malta, with a focus on the fortifications built by the Knights of Saint John and under the British rule. A new must-visit in the city.

St Mark’s Street, Valletta (2122 8594). Open mid June-Sept 9am-1pm Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat; 9am-4pm Tue, Thur; Oct-mid June 10am-4pm Mon, Wed, Fri; 10am-7pm Tue, Thur; 9.30am-1pm Sat. Admission free.

Museums National Museum of Archaeology As you can imagine, Malta’s archaeology reveals a lot of the island’s past, and finds date back to 5,200 BC. This museum offers great insight into almost 7,000 years of history – with a range of artefacts from the Neolithic (5,000 BC) to the Phoenician Period (218 BC). As you tour you’ll come across remnants from early settlements on the islands, such as pottery bowls, stone pots, carved spiral motifs and large altars, showcased at ground level. There is also a fascinating collection of human figures, ranging from

National Museum of Fine Arts

24 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

mysterious stone heads to fullsized figures of the ‘fat lady’, who is believed to represent a fertility cult.

The most elegant of these figures is the tiny, naked representation of supple proportions dubbed the Venus of Malta, a fine, wellpolished terracotta statuette with realistically rendered anatomical details, discovered at Hagar Qim temples in 1839 and probably used in religious fertility cults.

Auberge de Provence, Republic Street (2122 1623, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 8am7pm daily. Admission €5; €3.50 concessions; €2.50 children.

National Museum of Fine Arts Stars of this museum include works by the inimitable Mattia Preti, as well as Frenchman Antoine de Favray, beloved Maltese artist Giuseppe Calì and William Turner, besides other local and internationally acclaimed artists. But the museum doesn’t stop there and is, in fact, a treasure trove for art lovers with some items dating back to the 14th century and the era of the Knights of St John, including precious Maltese silverware, statuary in marble, bronze and wood, fine furniture items and splendid majolica pieces.

As you tour, enjoy the venue itself – a lavish rococo palace that has hosted several high-ranking international personalities both as residents and as guests, including British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, King George V and

Queen Elizabeth II of England.

South Street (2122 5769, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am4.30pm daily. Admission €5; €3.50 concessions; €2.50 children.

National War Museum Both world wars greatly shaped the islands and you’ll be able to learn why here. The most interesting displays of this museum, aptly located within one of the most important historical forts, include the photographic panels depicting the harsh conditions endured by the civilian population and the extent of war damage. Among the highlights look out for an Italian E-Boat, an anti-aircraft gun, the Willis Jeep ‘Husky’ and the Gloucester Gladiator ‘Faith’.

A replica of the George Cross, awarded to the Maltese nation for incredible bravery and endurance, is also on display. Another section of the museum is dedicated to the Royal Navy, showcasing uniforms, insignia, equipment, Malta convoys, a section of a Spitfire, a Junkers Juno engine and a Messerschmitt wing.

Fort St Elmo (2122 2430, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am4.30pm daily. Admission €6; €4.50 concessions; under-6s free.

Places of interest Auberge de Castille External restoration works on this beautiful auberge – built by the Knights of the Order of St John in the 16th century to house the Castilian Knights – were recently completed and revealed some stunning architectural detail.

As the seat of the office of the Prime Minister it is not open to the public, but its ornate exterior is well-worth a look all the same – marvel at the stone scrolls and thick shell ornamentation framing the louvered windows and the high staircase leading to the main door which is topped by triumphal symbols such as drums, swords and flags. Its façade is an exaltation of Grand Master Pinto (note his bust and his coat of arms over the doorway).

Castille Place. Not open to visitors.

Casa Rocca Piccola Further down from Palace Square along Republic Street is a stately home owned by the 9th Marquis de Piro. Built in the late 16th century for Don Pietro La Rocca – a knight of Malta and an admiral – it houses gems including a private chapel, a quaint poster bedroom and a sedan chair that once belonged to a French knight.

Join the hour-long guided tour as it brings to light the family’s history behind the artefacts. And for something different, you may join the Champagne Tour, which is occasionally led by the owner

The Malta Experience A super starting point for any time spent in Malta, this 45mins documentary (available in 15 languages) covers Malta’s 7,000-year-old history, focusing on all the salient eras in a gripping manner. Fun for all the family, you’ll leave here with all the knowledge you need to really appreciate the islands’ eclectic background.

St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street (2124 3776, www. themaltaexperience.com). Open Shows on the hr 11am-4pm MonFri; 11am-1pm Sat, Sun. Extra show 2pm Oct-June. Admission €10; €7 concessions; €5 under-14s; under-6s free.

Malta 5D This audio-visual extravaganza offers a thrilling historical and cultural experience brushed up

National Library Whether you’re a book-lover or not, it’s hard not to be enthralled by Malta’s National Library. The last building erected by the Knights, in the 1790s, brings together baroque and neoclassical styles.

Today it is home to Malta’s most important historical documents with highlights including all state archives of the Knights of St John from their foundation in 1113, and the charter granting the Maltese islands to the Order by Charles V in 1530. Visitors must present some form of identification, preferably a passport or identity card.

36 Old Treasury Street (2123 6585). Open mid June-Sept 8.15am1.15pm Mon-Sat; Oct-mid June 8.15am-5pm Mon-Fri; 8.15am1.15pm Sat. Admission free.

Teatru Manoel A must for culture-vultures, this stunning building is another legacy of the Knights and one of the oldest surviving theatres in Europe. Originally funded by Grand Master de Vilhena, the acoustical technology utilised is still valid today and, as a result, most performances forgo the use of microphones. Check the website or booking office for plays, concerts and other performances that are staged in the theatre throughout the year, particularly in winter (most performances are in English), and for the times of the daily guided tours of the theatre and its small museum.

Old Theatre Street (2124 6389, www.teatrumanoel.com.mt).

Open Tours Theatre and Museum 10.15am-4.30pm Mon-Fri Oct-May; 10.15am-2pm Mon-Fri June-Sept.

Tours every 45mins. Tours on Sat on demand. Tickets €4.

Valletta Living History Another audio-visual highlight, this time focusing exclusively on the ins, outs and history of the capital.

Screened within the Embassy Complex, the film provides insight into Valletta’s history, as well as the

Pjazza Regina

island’s developing culture and identity.

Embassy Complex (2722 0071, www.maltaattraction.com). Open Shows every 45mins 10am-3.15pm daily. Admission €9.75; €7 concessions; €4 children.

Valletta Waterfront Take the Barrakka lift out of the centre and down to the Waterfront – one of the capital’s most popular spots. Here the restored 18th-century vaults (where the Knights of St John and European merchants used to unload their wares) now house cafés, bars, restaurants and shops, and the view of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities is simply stunning.

Where to eat Cuisine choices are ample here. There’s everything from Mediterranean to Oriental to tickle your tastes, and often in charming, historic locations.

Cafés Caffé Cordina Few places in Malta have a similar legacy to Cordina’s, which has been delighting patrons since 1944 with great coffee, ice-creams and Maltese treats. Try to snag one of the tables in the square – known as Pjazza Regina, or, failing that, indoors under the recently restored ceiling embellished with paintings by the renowned artist Giuseppe Calì and glimmering with its 18 carat gold-painted leaves.

This place serves up hundreds of pastizzi (pea or cheesecakes) every day, as well as other favourites including goats’ cheese ravioli, kannoli tal-irkotta (sweet ricottastuffed pastry cases) and healthy smoothies. And for the perfect souvenir to take home, buy a box of their beautifully packaged Maltese honey rings or pastini (sweet pastries), made to a secret family recipe.

244-5 Republic Street (2123 4385, www.caffecordina.com). Open 7.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; 7.30am-3pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Photo: Lionel Galea

Grand Master’s Palace and Armoury As the seat of Malta’s rulers since the 16th century, the exterior of this beautiful palace dominates the recently paved St George’s Square and it currently houses the President’s office. Inside, the five State Rooms, which are open to the public, are lavishly decorated with coffered timber ceilings, priceless furniture, paintings of knightly pomp and British royals, colourful brocade, priceless Gobelin tapestries woven in France for Grand Master Ramón Perellos y Roccaful, and a wonderful series of frescoes depicting glorious episodes of the Knights’ history. The Armoury holds over 5,000 pieces of military hardware, showcasing the gilded parade armour of various Grand Masters, the arms of common soldiers, personal armours of the nobility and some Turkish armour.

Particularly worthy of note are the suit of armour made in Milan for Grand Master Wignacourt, as well as the full-length panoply made for Grand Master Garzes

by Sigismund Wold of Landshut.

Entrance to the palace is through a beautiful, large courtyard, shaded by exotic trees, that is overlooked by an elegant clock turret built in 1745.

Merchants Street (2124 9349, www.heritagemalta.org). Open State Rooms 10am-4pm Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun. Closed during official state visits. Palace Armoury 9am5pm daily. Admission State Rooms and Palace Armoury €12; €8 concessions; under-5s free.

with multi-sensory, new generation technology. The audience travels on a memorable adventure as it witnesses landmark events heightened with special 3D cinematic effects, leg ticklers, water spray, air blasts, smells and the jostles of moving seats! The aerial views and brilliant mix of past and present leave viewers in total awe of the Maltese islands.

It’s a great introduction to your holiday. Malta 5D has been intelligently created to suit all ages and audiences, and is easy to reach. The show runs every half an hour, seven days a week.

7 Old Bakery Street (2735 5001, www.malta5d.com). Open 9.30am4pm Mon-Sat; 10am-2pm Sun. Admission €9; €6 under-12s.

Valletta

himself, Marquis Nicholas de Piro, and organised at 7pm on Fridays (book ahead).

74 Republic Street (2122 1499, www.casaroccapiccola.com). Open 10am-4pm Mon-Sat. Tours on the hr. Admission €9; €5 students; under-14s free.

Café Prego They keep things consistent at this stalwart café, and so little has changed since it opened its doors in 1947 (so much so that generations return here to get their Prego fix). It may seem a little out of place next to the more modern cafés on every corner today, but this place is an institution and locals love it. Blend in by opting for a steaming té fittazza (tea in a glass cup), toast, focaccia or a cheesecake. It may not be gourmet, but it’s certainly a cultural icon.

58 South Street (2122 4062). Open 7am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 8am-1pm Sat. No credit cards.

Culto It’s easy to walk past this little café but don’t – especially if you’re hungry or on the hunt for one of the capital’s best coffees. Make the most of the free Wi-Fi as you take your pick from the daily-changing menu – we always opt for a salad or one of their fresh and tasty sandwiches. Leave room for one of their almond pastries too.

49 St John Street (2749 6810).

Open 8am-5pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

Inspirations With daily-changing specialities and a vast menu of pizza, pasta and more, there’s something to suit all tastes at this central café.

Part of the St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity (see p39), you’ll mingle with the artsy crowd that gathers here before and after performances.

St James Cavalier (2124 1224, www.inspirations.com.mt). Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Wed; 9.30am11pm Thur-Sun. Closed 2 wks Aug. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Kantina Café and Wine Bar Dine in the shade under the trees next to St John’s Co-Cathedral, or indoors in pretty surroundings.

This pleasant café is a great spot for a quick snack, lunch, or a pretheatre cocktail, with our favourite dishes including seafood spaghetti and seasonal fish platters. The Kantina Special Burger makes a

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 27

7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €11-€17. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Valletta

Maltese

Angelica’s

great choice, served with coleslaw and chunky fries. Wash this down with a glass of the house wine or, for a sweet treat, one of the milkshakes or smoothies.

103b, c St John’s Square (2723 0096). Open 8am-11pm Mon-Sat; 9am-5pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Museum Bar The baked macaroni, lasagne and hobz biz-zejt (local bread topped with olive oil, sweet tomato paste and olives) are true staples of this little bar. It may not look like much, but it is loved by office folk on their lunch breaks, and the daily specials keep things interesting. Always leave room for the fresh dessert of the day (snag a slice of the chocolate cake if you can). If it’s packed, don’t be disheartened as take-aways are the order of the day, and traffic moves quickly.

24 Melita Street (2124 2833). Open 7am-4pm Mon-Fri; 7am-2pm Sat. AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Piadina Locals pour onto the steps outside this dinky café, not least because the queue for some of owner Giada’s healthy creations often overflows into the street. Friendly and bright, Piadina is the ideal go-to for eat-in or take-away items, including rice and quinoa salads, grilled vegetables, couscous, wraps, black and red rice, and buckwheat, as well as the famed focaccias. There are also a few gluten-free choices to be found here, so everyone is taken care of.

24 St Lucia Street (2122 5983, www.piadinacaffe.com). Open 8am4pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

Reno’s There’s a great selection of local food here and the prices are very fair. We love the deli choices (you can have your sandwich with just about anything), as well as the pasta (especially the Reno’s special made with Maltese sausage, sundried tomatoes and local goats’ cheese).

Zachary Street (2124 5333). Open 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am3.30pm Sat. No credit cards.

Si Mangia Forget you’re in Malta for a minute as there’s a taste of Italy in every bite of the food served up here. We love their focaccia and their wide range of bread varieties made inhouse – the last time we visited we were bowled over by their freshly made curry bread. Choose from the à la carte menu or just walk in and find what’s been freshly prepared that day in their vast selfservice display.

South Street (2123 7222, www. simangia.com.mt). Open 8am-3pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. South Street Café You can taste the love in the dishes at this quaint café and there’s a tasty variety of healthy, vegetarian and fast food. We also enjoy the daily specials, which usually include a pasta dish and a hearty salad (such as the warm duck salad that we dug into the last time we were there), as well as the spaghetti with rabbit sauce.

11 South Street (2122 7780). Open 7am-8pm Mon-Fri; 8am-11pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Fusion La Mère Restaurant With a delightful menu of Arabic, Indian, Maltese and Mediterranean choices, this is fast becoming the restaurant of choice for diners who aren’t sure what they fancy.

The good news is that La Mère manages to hit the nail on the head with all four cuisines, so whether you want a portion of grilled aubergines, an Indian platter or a pasta dish to start, you’ll be making a good choice. And we’re also fans of the freshly made dips, accompanied by warm pitta bread to whet the appetite. For mains we love their super spicy vindaloo (but be warned: it’s hot!), the sizzling lamb kofta kebab or the salmon fillet. They also offer the ‘bring your own’ concept, where you can bring your own bottle of wine and be charged a minimum corkage fee of €4.50.

174 Merchants Street, Valletta (2122 3256, www.lamere.com. mt). Open noon-2.30pm Tue-Sun;

28 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Angelica’s This is one of our preferred eateries, not least because of the dainty decor and exquisite food on display. The brainchild of local food writer Mona Farrugia, it made it into the Jamie Oliver magazine in its first year. Open all day, it’s ideal for lunch or dinner with plenty of hearty options that can be enjoyed indoors or out. We’re particularly keen on the fact that you can have genuine Maltese food here with locally sourced and fresh ingredients: the calamari stuffed with prawns, the wild fish skewers, the moussaka Maltese-style, the vegetarian courgettes stuffed with zucchini and ricotta, and the roast potatoes are all absolutely divine.

And we really like the fact that excellent quality Maltese wines as well as champagnes are available by the glass. An absolute favourite!

134 Archbishop Street (2122 2777, www.angelicamalta.com). Open 11am-midnight daily. Main courses €10-€20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Nenu the Artisan Baker From its crusty exterior to its soft interior (ideal for dipping in extra virgin olive oil), it’s impossible not to fall in love with Maltese bread.

Nenu the Artisan Baker opened in 2012 as a celebration of everything we love about Maltese food. You can start your meal by touring the bakery itself and you’ll be able to watch the bakers using the original wood-fired oven (over 100 years old) that has been carefully restored to its former glory.

Experienced bakers will guide you on the art of ftira-making, using authentic ingredients. Next it’s time to sample their scrumptious fare. The dining area within Nenu’s is bursting with genuine, local dishes including imqarrun il-forn (baked macaroni), stuffat tal-majjal, canga, patata u pizelli (pork and beef stew with potatoes and peas), fenek tradizzjonali (traditional rabbit) and, of course, the renowned ftira (unleavened Maltese bread) with a variety of delicious fillings.

143 St Dominic Street (2258 1535, www.nenuthebaker.com). Open 11am-11pm Tue-Sat; 11am-2pm Sun. Main courses €7-€19.50.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mediterranean Ambrosia Led by long-time chef and restaurateur Chris Farrugia, this beloved Valletta eatery will have you hooked. The fresh colourscheme sets the scene for a lovely meal and we’ve never been

disappointed – especially thanks to the daily-changing menu. There are, however, numerous staples we look forward to including the handmade pasta with ossobuco sauce or the grilled asparagus salad with pecorino to start with, followed by the rabbit with dates and juniper berries for mains. For dessert the sublime American cheesecake or steamed chocolate puddings are both hard to beat. Definitely an elegant choice for good food in the capital.

137 Archbishop Street (2122 5923, www.ambrosia.com.mt). Open 12.30-2pm, 7.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €15-€25. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Black Pig Immerse yourself in the 17thcentury palazzo feel of this recently opened eatery that has gathered quite a loyal following of local foodies, and tuck into Mediterranean and French influenced cuisine with a modern touch. There are a few set menus (for instance, €29 for the three-course lunch menu) to choose from; these change daily to reflect what’s in season and locally available. No surprise, pork features heavily on the menu, though vegetarians are wellcatered for too.

95-96 Old Bakery Street (2122 1606, www.blackpig.com.mt). Open 12.30-2pm Tue-Fri; 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Browns Combining Browns Kitchen and Browns Dine and Dance (next door to one another), this mini franchise is all about the good life. There’s a scrumptious selection of food to be enjoyed here on the Valletta Waterfront promenade, all crafted by executive chef Sean Borg and his team.

Vault 3 and 4, Valletta Waterfront (2702 0471, www.brownsmalta. com). Open 10am-midnight daily.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cockney’s Bar and Restaurant Right in the heart of Marsamxett Harbour with the magnificent view of Manoel Island, this is a well-known family-run restaurant in the area. You can hop abroad the Sliema-Valletta ferry and find yourself here, at a place loved by businesspeople on a lazy lunch break and tourists who can’t get enough of the view. The menu is predominantly fish-based, with starters including spaghetti with prawns or mussels, delicious aljotta (Maltese fish soup) and a platter of mixed shellfish. As for mains, the catch of the day is always a safe bet, cooked just the way you like it. Alternatively, there are non-fish options, such as the Maltese platter and antipasto misto, with a mix of delicacies to nibble on. If you dine

Da Pippo If it’s good enough for Brad and Angelina (who dined here while working on a film in 2011), then it’s good enough for us.

With up to a three-week waiting list for a table, book ahead… and then put yourself in chef Francesco’s capable hands. Only open for lunch, you’ll start with complimentary appetisers to whet your appetite, followed by whatever pasta sauce comes recommended that day – the Maltese sausage and clam sauce variety is among the most delicious on the island, and for mains try the saltimbocca alla Romana or the fresh king prawns.

Always leave room for the popular cassatella Siciliana – a traditional Sicilian cake made with sweet ricotta.

136 Melita Street (2124 8029).

Open 11.30-3.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Elia This small eatery in the heart of Valletta offers a yummy taste of authentic Greek food. Opened by Labros from Greece, and with his mother as the chef, the food is genuine, very tasty and well-priced.

Ask Labros to recommend what’s good the day you visit – we’ve tucked into delicious moussaka, lamb kleftiko, stuffed peppers and Greek salad, though there are many other Greek dishes on offer.

73 Merchants Street (2768 9525).

Open 11am-4pm, 7pm-midnight daily. Main courses €8. No credit cards.

Fumia Restaurant This fine-dining restaurant, located beneath the Manoel Theatre, serves Italian cuisine and is a must for fish-lovers. Start with the antipasti misti della casa – the chef’s special starter that changes depending on what’s in season, followed by their spaghetti con ricci (spaghetti with sea urchins) or the ravioli di ricotta al nero di sepia (ravioli with ricotta and squid ink). Fish is the main event, of course, and our favourites include the perfectly cooked catch of the day, the gamberoni arrosti (grilled giant prawns) or the tasty fritto misto (deep-fried mixed fish).

Round things off with a light dessert, such as the lemon sorbet or some seasonal fruit. As an aside, do be careful when ordering fish by weight because the price can be quite hefty; it is best to establish

the final price beforehand to avoid any nasty surprises when the bill shows up.

72 Old Bakery Street (2131 7053, fumia@maltanet.net). Open 12.302.30pm, 8-10.30pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €20-€40. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Giannini This restaurant blends its lovely setting with a truly formidable menu, so try to snag a table on the balcony to make the most of it.

Chef patron Aaron De Giorgio has poured every ounce of his passion into this place and the result is a modern dining experience that rarely fails to impress. For starters, we always enjoy the fish, octopus or duck carpaccio, followed by the fresh fish of the day served with seasonal vegetables and lovely roast potatoes. Specials change daily, and there’s an extensive wine list to choose from too.

23 Windmill Street, St Michael’s Bastions (2123 7121, www. giannini.com.mt). Open noon-2pm, 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat; also noon-2pm Sun Oct-May. Main courses €17€26. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Il-Horza Tucked away in one of the capital’s narrow streets, Il-Horza is easy to miss but shouldn’t be overlooked, as the food (and particularly the meat) is delicious and the service attentive. Located in a former wine tavern dating back to the Knights of St John, the atmosphere is pretty singular and patron Charles Bone and chef Carlos Buttigieg will make your meal a memorable one. We suggest the meat – the Angus rib-eye and veal T-bone in particular – as well as the exquisite lamb shanks. For dessert there’s a great mix of fruity and ‘chocolatey’ offerings and, of course, the 200-strong wine list goes down a treat too.

6 St Christopher Street (2122 6936, www.ilhorza.com). Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri; 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €14-€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. La Sfoglia With a team led by Samuel Caruana and consulted by Michelin star chef Oswald Caruana, food here is top-class and delicious.

The menu, which is mostly Mediterranean, changes daily, with a fabulous selection of fish and seafood. Oh, and be sure to leave room for the white chocolate cheesecake – scrumptious!

66-67 Merchants Street (7991 9966). Open noon-11pm daily.

Main courses €14.50-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Malata Now that St George’s Square is one of the capital’s prettiest spots, Malata is one of the best places to make the most of it – especially

at night when the area is brought to life by designer lighting and dancing fountains. The menu here is a blend of French and Mediterranean cuisines, and your hosts, Verney and her sons Michael and Rowan, are a delight.

Start off with the pan-seared fresh foie gras with calvados and caramelised fruit or the mixed shellfish marinière. Follow that with their signature chateaubriand or slow-roast pork belly with caramelised apple and raspberry coulis. Round things off with a dessert – banoffee pie or poached pears in red wine and vanilla icecream. For something that little bit extra special, book ahead for the Tuesday Jazz Nights, held weekly (weather permitting) between 8 and 11pm.

St George’s Square (2123 3967, www.malatamalta.com). Open noon-2.30pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €13.50-€22. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Palazzo Preca Run by the Preca sisters, you know you’re in good hands, especially as they come from one of the most renowned foodie families on the island. The decor feels regal so it’s ideal for special occasions – especially on candlelit Wednesdays, when a sense of romance is given the chance to shine. Choose from the blackboard specials – the fresh fish of the day is always delicious, as are the Maltese specialities – beef olives or perfectly cooked rabbit. Dessert is wonderful too, with the house special including mini versions of all the best choices. Expect everything to look as good as it tastes too, and don’t be surprised if Ramona – one of the sisters – pops out of the kitchen and chats with you once the cooking rush is over.

Strait Street (2122 6777, www. palazzoprecavalletta.com). Open June-Sept noon-3.30pm Tue-Sat; 6.30-11pm Tue-Sun; Oct-May noon3.30pm Tue-Sun; 6.30-11pm TueSat. Main courses €13-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Rubino This little eatery made its name as one of the first in Malta to really celebrate our foodie heritage.

The daily menu is scribbled on a blackboard and explained as you make your choices – there’s always a delicious selection of antipasti and dips, followed by fresh fish and local meat. Try the Maltese rabbit, the pork fillet marinated in honey and thyme and grilled, or the tasty tagliata of sliced grilled beef served with Parmesan shavings.

We love to end a meal here with their renowned cassata Siciliana or the Maltese ice-cream (served in slices) or imqaret (dates cooked in pastry) with ice-cream.

53 Old Bakery Street (2122 4656, www.rubinomalta.com). Open

Critics’ choice Restaurants

1

Fumia Not cheap, but worth visiting for exquisite and tender fish, and beautiful vaulted surroundings. See left.

2

Ambrosia (pictured) Its effortlessly chic interior is a perfect backdrop for a superb lunch or dinner, prepared by experienced chef Chris with aplomb. See p28.

3

Da Pippo Rub shoulders with the city’s professionals, savouring the best pasta in town. See left.

4

Palazzo Preca The Preca family has extended its culinary heritage to the capital and we love them for it. See left.

5

Malata Its unique setting in fantastic St George’s Square is a major draw but foodies love it too for its tasty French-inspired offerings. See left.

6

Il-Horza Charles Bone really knows what goes down well with his patrons at his small and cosy eatery. We’ve never been disappointed. See left.

7

Trabuxu Bistro Tucked away in South Street is one of the locals’ favourite dining options, particularly for office lunches or weekend dinners. See p32.

8

Angelica’s It’s the decor that attracted us here the first time but it’s the hearty and fresh food that keeps us coming. See p28.

9

Elia Great for a simple, inexpensive, quick and very tasty fix. See left.

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 31

Valletta

here, try to bag a table right at the edge of the terrace, and sit back and relax as you enjoy the idyllic setting.

Marsamxett Wharf (2123 6065, www.cockneysrestaurant.com).

Open noon-3pm daily; June-Sept also 7-11pm daily. Main courses €15-€24. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Valletta

12.30-2.30pm Mon-Fri; 7.3010.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €15. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €16-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Sicilia Bar and Restaurant This family-run restaurant is testament to how simplicity really is best. Overlooking the Grand Harbour and with plenty of outdoor tables, it is the ideal spot for lunch in the sunshine. It may not be a grand experience (there’s no silver service here) but the food is very good and authentically Sicilian.

Locals love it for the abundant portions which keep on coming, especially for Sunday lunch when you can pretty much leave yourself in the hands of the team here. The pasta is some of the best in the city – including the tasty marinara and the farouk versions. End your meal with the delicious Sicilian sweets which our neighbouring island is famous for, such as almond biscuits or cassatella. And if you don’t make it for lunch, try having breakfast here, watching the city wake up to another day.

1 St John Street (2124 0569). Open 8am-5pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €5-€12. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

Oriental

Trabuxu Bistro As the name suggests, this welcoming bistro is run by the same husband-and-wife team, Kris and Krista, as Trabuxu Wine Bar just across the road (see p32), and it’s just as popular. The food here is always fresh and tasty, with a fusion of flavours. The menu includes soups, salads, stews, pastas and meats, as well as a lovely deli counter and daily specialities.

Ideal for a bite before or after the theatre or an exhibition, we love the daily-changing antipasti with a selection of breads, olives, Spanish tortilla and sautéed mushrooms or spaghetti with fresh local prawns and courgettes. Plus, the wine bar influence from across the road is felt and there’s a fantastic selection of vintages to accompany your meal.

South Street (2122 0357, www. trabuxu.com.mt). Open noon-3pm,

Nan Yuan As one of the best Chinese restaurants in the area, head straight here to curb your Orientalflavour cravings, and al fresco tables are available. We love the mixed starters (which include dumplings and spring rolls), followed by the sizzling beef, the tasty aromatic duck with pancakes or the chicken with cashew nuts.

If you prefer tea to wine with your meal, Nan Yuan offers an extensive list, from jasmine to ginseng or green tea. The restaurant can get very busy so book early.

Vault 14, Valletta Waterfront (2122 5310, nanyuan@maltanet.net).

Open 11.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sun; 7-11.30pm daily. Main courses €7€35. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink Little bars attract an artsy, intelligent crowd for drinks in the capital – usually after a good meal or cultural event.

Café Jubilee Part of the Jubliee franchise that started small in Gozo and now includes two outlets in Malta, this is the spot you can rely on to be open long after most places close, whether for a late night snack or a chilled glass of wine. It’s busy from breakfast right up until last orders, usually packed with a chatty crowd of professionals, actors, artists and musicians. Soak up the decor while enjoying a plate of Mediterranean chicken pasta, or delicious duck salad, or simply refresh with a milk-shake.

125 St Lucia Street (2125 2332, www.cafejubilee.com). Open 8am1am daily. Credit DC, MC, V. Other locations 209 The Strand, Gzira (2133 7141); 8 Independence Square, Rabat, Gozo (2155 8921).

Q Bar and Restaurant

32 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Charles Grech Café and Cocktail Bar This trendy café-cum-bar is a favourite of the Valletta ‘it’ crowd and is often open late and lively on the weekends, and especially after a cultural event. There’s a great selection of foods for light lunches and snacks all day, accompanied by the fine wines imported by Charles Grech, which are also on sale in the cellar downstairs.

10 Republic Street (2122 8848, www.charlesgrech.com). Open 8am7pm Mon-Thur; 8am-11pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hard Rock Café Enjoy late and lively fun at this popular international franchise, which has taken up residence at the Valletta Waterfront. Attracting a vibrant crowd, there’s live music, cocktails, resident DJs and good food to enjoy, as well as the historical setting which makes it pretty unique.

Valletta Waterfront (2123 3346).

Open 10am-midnight daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Legligin Wine Bar Wine is the order of the day here; in fact owner Chris won’t be very keen on serving you anything else.

Staff members are connoisseurs so they will help you make the most of the international selection, part of which is stored within the actual walls of this old building.

The Shiraz is a particular favourite, accompanied by a selection of local tapas (priced between €15 and €23 for a selection).

119 St Lucia Street (2122 1699).

Open 7.30pm-1am Wed-Mon. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mona Liza Lounge Celebrating diversity, Mona Liza is a vibrant and dynamic place to spend an evening. The food is simple – with wonderful salads, platters and tasty desserts – while the setting is sumptuous. There’s a great drinks menu too, with all sorts of fresh fruit cocktails and a variety of coffees. Head over on Sundays between 6 and 11pm for ‘double dip’ when all drinks are two-for-one.

222 Great Siege Road (2124 2303, www.monaliza.com.mt). Open noon-2am Sun-Thur; noon-4am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Mona Liza Café, Ball Street, Paceville (2138 0821).

The Pub Known as ‘Olly’s last pub’ because actor Oliver Reed drew his last breath (and drank his last drink) here, this pub is as traditional a pub as you will find within the walls of the capital. Easy to find round the corner from the Grand Master’s Palace, it’s also one of the best spots for good bar offers and a lively, international atmosphere.

Archbishop Street (7980 7042).

Open 11am-6pm Mon-Thur; 11am11pm Fri; noon-midnight Sat. No credit cards.

Q Bar and Restaurant If you want to party in the capital, this is one of the best options.

Events here attract a sophisticated crowd that enjoys the indooroutdoor space with its chic VIP area. There’s also an excellent bar menu, as well as various platters and other Mediterranean dishes.

Expect top local and foreign DJs, as well as the odd live set by popular bands.

Valletta Waterfront (2747 6808).

Open 6-11pm daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. StrEat Whisky and Bistro Whether you’re a whisky connoisseur or not, this chic bar is one of the capital’s trendiest new hangouts. Whisky is the order of the day, of course, but there’s also a fantastic selection of food and a well-stocked bar. The food is delicious, with a number of platters, pastas and salads to choose from – and we particularly enjoyed the mussels last time we were there.

Strait Street (2122 8347). Open noon-midnight daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tico Tico All sorts of drinks, food and fun are served up at this beautifully decorated bar, which celebrates Strait Street’s notorious past. ‘Food to share’ is the dining concept, with mezes and platters to nibble over a glass of wine or a cocktail, while there are heartier specials available too. Tico Tico is definitely one of the bars leading the way towards a more cosmopolitan Valletta.

61 Strait Street (2122 0449). Open 10am-5pm Mon; 10am-2am TueSat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Trabuxu Wine Bar We can’t imagine anyone not loving the vibe at Trabuxu Wine Bar, the place that pioneered the wine bar scene in Malta. The brainchild of Kris Fenech Soler, it is frequented by an artsy crowd and especially busy after theatrical performances or exhibition launches; in fact it’s best to book ahead if you want to secure a table within the bar itself or outside on the Strait Street steps. As you would imagine, there’s an excellent selection of local and international wines on offer, accompanied by delicious eats including dips made lovingly in-house and some of the best cheese and meat platters we’ve ever tasted. Spot the collection of corkscrews adorning the walls, which is how this place got its name.

1 Strait Street (2122 3036, www. trabuxu.com.mt). Open 7pmmidnight Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Tommy Hilfiger

Zmerc City For drinks or light snacks right by the sea, this is your spot. Located beneath Valletta, you’ll be able to take in the view of the bastions in one direction and Sliema in the other, making for an impressive skyline. This is a relaxed place to while away a few hours – nibble the appetisers on offer (usually baked pasta, local bread and snails) or order from the menu, and sip on the drink of your choice.

Marsamxetto Valletta Regatta Club (2123 5398). Open 11am-2am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Shopping Valletta is something of a shopper’s paradise, with everything from dinky boutiques to large international brands to keep you happy.

Arcades and shopping complexes Embassy Complex Easily the most popular mall in the city, this place is home to numerous international franchises including Monsoon Kids, United Colors of Benetton, Bershka, Promod, Agenda Bookshop, The Face, Nuvole and more. Within the complex you’ll also find a bingo hall, Bingo Royale, (complete with slot machines), games room and cinema complex (including the screening of a documentary – ‘Valletta Living History’ – on Malta’s past). Some shops close between 1 and 4pm.

St Lucia Street (2122 7436, www. embassycomplex.com.mt). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Fashion Ascot House One of the most popular men’s stores in the city, this shop stocks designer items from big names like Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren.

There’s a family-run feel here (thanks to the fact the Schembri

family has been running it since 1902) and a large selection of formal and informal wear, as well as accessories.

243 Republic Street (2122 1372, www.ascothousemalta.net). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Celio Well-stocked with a colourful selection for summer, Celio is a great choice for good-value menswear. Bright t-shirts and shorts, as well as more formal options, are available, and staff is very helpful.

48 Republic Street (2723 4064).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cost Borg Elegance is the order of the day at this menswear boutique, with a great selection of formalwear, tailored pieces, accessories and swimwear. Alterations are available. Cheaper ware, including t-shirts, shirts, jackets, belts and other items for men, is available in a small outlet right opposite.

250 Republic Street (2123 7363).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Francis Bajada Stylish Italian fashion for men is what Francis Bajada is all about, with tailored suits, smart shirts, jackets, ties, scarves, cufflinks and hats all available. The prices may be on the high side, but the helpful staff and gorgeous collections easily make up for that. Ask for any assistance you might need, as not all items are easily visible, while alterations can be made to anything bought in-store.

192 Merchants Street (2123 7948).

Open 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 8.30am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 36 Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2132 3409).

Fred Perry This outlet, selling Fred Perry items sporting the renowned laurel wreath logo, offers a wide variety

Kenjo and Kyoto If you love pretty dresses, head straight here. These city boutiques (opposite each other) may retail expensive items (you’re looking at around €250 for an outfit) but you’re bound to find something you’ll fall in love with. The focus is on stylish, smart-casual attire for events and special occasions, and the shop windows give a good idea of what’s in season.

128 and 52 Old Theatre Street (2122 0724, 2125 0264). Open 9am-1.30pm, 4-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Levi’s Store It’s all about denim at this central store, and all the styles and fits of the season are proudly displayed. This year, Levi’s loves sustainability, so the fashion, jackets, tees and accessories have an attractive eco feel to them. Head upstairs for men’s and downstairs for women’s.

222 Merchants Street (2258 4444). Open 10am-2pm, 4-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St Anne’s Square, Sliema (2258 4431); The Warehouse Outlet, Luigi Ellul Street, Attard (2258 4407).

Mango There’s a great mix of workwear and casualwear at this high-street shop, popular for both the quality of its clothes as well as the price.

Britannia Centre, St Lucia Street (2122 2951). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Thur; 9am-7pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (2388 9610).

Marks & Spencer With clothes and accessories for him, her, the kids and the home (plus a variety of packed and frozen food items), M&S has something for everyone. This is the flagship store for the brand, cleverly designed in a fresh and stylish blend of metal and wood over seven well laid-out floors.

The brand has become brilliant at appealing across the board – they’ve managed to hit this season’s latest trends while still staying true to their best-known styles – including great-fitting t-shirts and comfortable lingerie in a range of sizes.

53/54 Strait Street (2122 0614).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations The Strand, Sliema

(2133 1745); The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (9975 1058); Level 0, Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (3792 0401).

Mexx This may not be the cheapest option, but it is ideal if you want quality clothing and the latest trends. Spread over three floors, the store has items for both men and women. This season’s light colours feature heavily, together with loose-fitting casuals that keep you cool in the heat and tailored items for the evening. Accessories, including jewellery, belts, bags and shoes are also available, and sales are held regularly.

248A Republic Street (2202 2150). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Level 1, Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (2372 1702); 67 Constitution Street, Mosta (2143 6172); The Pjazza, The Point, Sliema (2202 1101).

Miss Sixty Especially popular with teenagers and those who want to turn heads, Miss Sixty stocks dresses, casualwear, woollens, accessories and their trademark jeans for women (skinnies are the look of the season, paired with a tailored shirt). To bag a bargain, go downstairs and head for the corner of reduced items.

50 St Lucia Street (2122 4809).

Open 9.30am-1.30pm, 4-7pm MonThur; 9.30am-7pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Other locations 3 Bisazza Street, Sliema (2131 2593).

Peacocks This British fashion brand offers great-value, on-trend clothes for women, men and kids at great competitive prices. With new lines arriving weekly, you’ll never miss out on the latest fashion trends.

Republic Street (2210 3250). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 10am2pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Antoine De Paule Square, Paola (2210 3251); Arkadia Commercial Centre, Rabat, Gozo (2210 3254); St George’s Square, Valletta (kidswear) (2210 3253).

Tommy Hilfiger American fashion is celebrated at this chic store – a destination in its own right. Housed within the beautiful Palazzo Ferreria, it promises a great shopping experience, stocking a range of clothing and accessories for him, her and the children. The staff is efficient and helpful, and free alterations are offered with every purchase. The Hilfiger Denim collection is also housed in the recently renovated basement.

Ferreria Palace, 307 Republic

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 35

Valletta

of colours and styles to update your look, and at great prices for both men and women.

Merchants Street (2258 4441).

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St Anne’s Square, Sliema (2258 4432); The Warehouse Outlet, Luigi Ellul Street, Attard (2258 4407).

Valletta

Street (2123 3618). Open 9am7pm Mon-Sat; 10am-1pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Level 0, Baystreet Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (2137 2182); The Point Shopping Centre (2060 1163); Arkadia Commercial Centre, Rabat, Gozo (2210 3000).

Fashion accessories Bata For well-priced footwear that feels great, you won’t be disappointed here. Plus there’s a fantastic range of accessories and sunglasses to accompany what’s on your feet.

This season we’re hooked on their colourful wedges and pretty ballerina pumps.

Old Theatre Street (2385 9330).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (2385 9385); The Duke Shopping Mall, Rabat, Gozo (2385 9367).

Bubbles Best-known for their occasion footwear, there’s also a great range of casual options in this season’s styles and colours, with matching accessories. Prices at this popular shop range from ultra-affordable to pretty expensive, so the choice is yours.

257 Republic Street (2122 1935).

Open 9am-1.30pm, 3.30-7pm MonFri; 9am-1.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Classic Jewellers Classic Jewellers is a leading choice for quality pieces – diamonds, watches and custommade jewellery. There’s also a gorgeous selection of pearls and diamonds, plus items in silver, yellow and white gold. We’re also hooked on the dainty filigree, which seems to be making a comeback as one of the biggest jewellery trends this season.

292 Republic Street (2203 5105).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

leading jewellery brands such as Mikimoto, Damiani, Chaumet, Carrera Y Carrera and Anna Maria Cammilli, with pearls, timepieces and the latest jewellery styles all in stock. The focus is on a personalised service.

291 Republic Street (2203 5202, www.diamondsinternational.com. mt). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Portomaso, St Julian’s (2203 5201).

Edwards Lowell Co Ltd It’s hard to beat the prestigious brands at this city-centre store – including Rolex, Chopard, Raymond Weil, Breitling, Patek Philippe, Hublot, Parmigiani, S.T. Dupont and Pomellato, as well as luxury mobile phones by Vertu. Of course prices are on the high side, but they’re worth it and hard to find elsewhere on the island. Ring the bell to discover what’s inside!

6, 7 Zachary Street (2124 4159, www.elcol.com). Open 9.30am-1pm, 4.30-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St George’s Road, Spinola Bay, St Julian’s (2138 4503).

King Shoe Shop This family-run shoe shop focuses on comfort and customer service, with brands including Tamaris, Ara, Pikolinos, Moshulu and Ecco, as well as professional brand Oxypas.

42 Ordnance Street (2122 4804, www.kingshoeshop.net). Open 9am7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm, 4.30-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St Julian’s Road, San Gwann (2137 8433); Level 0, Bay Street, St Julian’s (2372 0010);

Darmanin Footwear There’s a fabulous choice of great-value, on-trend footwear at Darmanin’s, whether at this shop or their other Valletta store (on Zachary Street) – including vibrant sandals for summer and cosy boots for winter.

19 Republic Street (2124 4877).

Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Diamonds International Brands available at this boutique of fine jewellery and luxury timepieces include Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Omega, Cartier, Zenith, IWC and Ulysse Nardin, among others, as well as

Bulgari Store

36 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Level 2, Tigrija Palazz, Rabat, Gozo (2156 9423).

Nine West This international footwear brand puts its focus on quality, with new stock received every few days. As worn by women all over the world, Nine West adheres to the trends and goes that step further. We love the fact that their shoes and bags have that extra oomph.

St John’s Square (2138 0653).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (2060 1173).

Parfois This fashion accessories brand, originally from Portugal, offers a full range of fashion must-haves including handbags, purses, shoes, scarves, jewellery, hats, suitcases, belts and more, all at very good prices.

Republic Street, Valletta (2210 3240). Open 9.30am-7.30pm MonSat; 10am-2pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Arkadia Commercial Centre, Rabat, Gozo (2210 3312).

Segue This treasure trove on Old Treasury Street stocks bags by brands including Sisley and United Colors of Benetton, and will soon add Calvin Klein items to its shelves. A variety of travel bags, wallets, gloves, scarves, sunglasses and other accessories are also available.

29 Old Treasury Street (2122 7788). Open 9am-2pm, 3-6pm MonFri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Promenade Centre, Lower Level, 53

Islets Promenade, Bugibba (2157 8830); Paola Square, Paola (2167 2079); The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (2060 1037).

Solaris With the ‘ultimate selection’ of sunglasses in Malta, you’ll protect your eyes and look super stylish in the process with purchases from Solaris. Brands include Ray Ban, Gucci, Versace, Cartier, Prada, Armani, Chanel, Burberry, Dior, Bulgari and Tiffany and Co, and there’s a special Solaris range that is priced lower. Solaris also guarantees that all models offer 100 per cent UV protection. Try out the Solaris Malta app on Facebook to get 10 per cent knocked off your choice.

281 Republic Street (2123 2955, www.solaris-sunglass.com). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 7 Tower Road, Sliema (2133 5815).

Sterling Jewellers Established in 1896, Sterling Jewellers is a household name in Malta, offering both traditional pieces and contemporary designs.

While most of their high-end brands (including Gucci, Versace and Casato) are aimed at shoppers with deep pockets, there are also pieces to suit lower budgets. The Maltese cross remains the most popular buy, and comes in a variety of materials – plain silver or gold, filigree, silver encrusted with stones and diamond-studded. The group behind this store recently opened the Bulgari Store just up the road, with a glorious range of Bulgari items available.

6 Republic Street (2124 5999).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-

143, ST DOMINIC STREET, VALLETTA TEL: (356)22581535

WWW.NENUTHEBAKER.COM

1.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Food and drink C Camilleri and Sons Ltd This is the place to calm your sweet tooth, with a vast choice of pick-and-mix favourites, chocolate boxes and fresh cakes (including cassata Siciliana, almond cakes and pastries, as well as local specialities such as honey rings and date cakes). This family affair has been going strong for over 170 years and still retains its charm.

49-51 Merchants Street (2124 1642, www.tal-helu.com). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Colonial Store The wonderful Sicilian food on sale here is all hand-picked by the owners, including a range of wine, olive oil, honey, sweets, pâtés and pestos – as well as local produce by popular Gozitan brand Savina.

This authentic, old shop also retails Venetian masks at Carnival, and artisan bags in the summer, as well as other seasonal treats through the year.

303 St Paul Street (2122 4831).

Open June-Sept 9am-1.30pm MonFri; 9am-noon Sat; Oct-May 9am1pm, 3-5pm Mon-Fri; 9am-noon Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Wembley Store For food with a bit of history to it, you can’t beat Wembley’s. This store is always packed full of people – whether for a loaf of bread or something special. You’ll find everything spread over two floors, including essentials, freshly baked pies, pet food, fresh Dinkie pork pies, ricotta kannoli (filled before your eyes) and very special boxes of chocolates and biscuits. Wine is available in their cellar downstairs.

305 Republic Street (2122 5147, www.thewembleystore.com). Open 7.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; 10am-1pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Valletta

Victor Azzopardi Jewellers Located just outside the capital, this store goes beyond jewellery to offer ceramics and souvenirs, as well as repair and appraisal services. This is also one of the best places to source Maltese silverware, including coffee pots and teapots, Maltese boats, oil lamps and candelabra. The wellsized outlet is also popular for its list of international jewellery and watch brands including Versace, Ferragamo, Chimento, Yvel, Recarlo, Toywatch, Paul Picot and Pianegonda.

31, 32 St Anne Street, Floriana (2123 3715, www.victorazzopardi. com). Open 9.30am-1pm, 4-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-1pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Other locations 178 Marina Street, Pietà (2010 3715).

The Wembley Store

Gifts and homeware The Artisans Centre For a truly unmatched range of souvenirs, this well-stocked shop offers silverware, trinkets and knick-knacks to suit every taste.

Particularly popular is the bizzilla (local lace) which is beautifully patterned and woven by hand, as well as the ceramics and local jewellery. Bear in mind that some items are not made by Maltese artisans but feel free to ask the friendly staff to point out what’s local and what’s not.

288 Republic Street (2124 6216).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-4pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 3 St John’s Square, Valletta.

Mdina Glass Maltese life is transformed into glass-form here and there’s a wonderful selection of everything from traditional shapes and styles to really contemporary items. Prices may be high, but you have to appreciate the work that has gone into them as each is individually crafted. Glass plates with Maltese patterns are particularly popular, as are the glass panel clocks. You can rest assured that Mdina Glass outlets sell at factory prices.

Valletta Waterfront (2141 5786, www.mdinaglass.com.mt). Open 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Guze Fava Street, Sliema (2010 6305); Islets Promenade, Bugibba; Crafts Village, Ta’ Qali; 14 Merchants Street, Valletta (2141 5786); Sir Adrian Dingli Street, Rabat, Gozo (2010 2477).

Toys and games Early Learning Centre A great stop for families, as children are welcome to play with a selection of the educational toys in-store. Ideal for boys and

girls up to the age of nine, the focus is on items that stimulate development while still keeping them entertained.

193 Merchants Street (2123 6228, www.elctoysmalta.com). Open 9am12.30pm, 4-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 6385).

HandKrafts Beyond the obvious selection of toys, this store retails model cars, boats and aircraft for enthusiasts. It delivers worldwide too.

83 South Street (2122 1160). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Arts and entertainment Fancy watching a movie or a play, or viewing a contemporary arts exhibition? There’s loads to do and see in the capital.

Art galleries St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity Housed in a building erected by the Knights of St John, today this centre thrives on contemporary exhibitions, theatre performances and art house movies. There’s an ongoing arts calendar, so you’ll usually find something on; check out the website for an updated list of current and upcoming events.

Castille Place (2122 3200, www. sjcav.org). Open June-mid-Sept 9am1pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat, Sun; Oct-May 9am-5pm Mon, Tue; 9am9pm Wed-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

cinema bar, you’ll be well taken care of, and films are screened throughout the day and well into the evening. The complex is also home to a 3D cinema (glasses for 3D films sell for €1), as well as a multi-lingual well-produced film about the capital’s journey through history (see p39).

St Lucia Street (2122 2225, www. embassycomplex.com.mt). Screens 6. Tickets €6.60-€8; €3.50-€5 children. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. St James Cavalier Cinema If you fancy catching a screening of something a little different, head to this art-house spot. From live screenings of UK National Theatre productions to indie classics, it is an escape from the ordinary and loved by the local artsy crowd.

Prices and times vary depending on what is being screened. The centre regularly holds international film festivals; it’s best to check the website for updated listings. Prices and times vary depending on what is being screened.

Castille Place (2122 3200, www. sjcav.org). Screens 2. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Theatre

Film

St James Cavalier Theatre Despite its small size, this dinky theatre has played host to some of the island’s best shows to date.

Performances here – mainly in English – tend to be contemporary in style. Expect an up-close experience by local and foreign theatre groups. Tickets may be bought online.

Castille Place (2122 3200, www. sjcav.org). Box office 9am-5pm Mon, Tue; 9am-9pm Wed-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat, Sun. Tickets €15 (may vary).

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Embassy Cinema You’ll find all your Hollywood favourites at this central cinema complex. With six screens and a

Teatru Manoel With a calendar bursting with performances of classical music, opera, musicals, drama (mostly

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 39

Where to stay From luxury and elegant to cheap and cheerful, the capital has it all. Choosing to stay here means everything is on your doorstep, with easy public transport to the rest of the island too.

Expensive Grand Hotel Excelsior Reputed to be among the best five-star hotels on the island, it is its sea views that really set it apart. There’s plenty of luxury to be enjoyed, including the spa and excellent restaurants, as well as complimentary Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs and free ironing on request in the rooms. The hotel is just a stone’s throw away from the Valletta Waterfront and boasts its own 30-berth marina, a private beach, a large pool, health and beauty centre, and restaurants offering diverse cuisines.

Great Siege Road, Floriana (2125 0520, www.excelsior.com.mt). Rates (incl breakfast) €132 single; €175 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hotel Phoenicia Old-world elegance combines with new-world service at this historic hotel. With 128 rooms and eight suites, this isn’t one of the largest hotels on the island, but it is one of the grandest. You’ll be well taken care of in this splendid hotel with its comfortable, luxurious rooms and its vast lobby (where we love to sit back, relax and enjoy the hotel’s exquisite afternoon tea selection). Among the hotel’s greatest assets are its seven acres of mature, landscaped garden, skirted by the ancient bastions of Malta’s capital. We also love its range of facilities, from the spacious outdoor pool to the onsite hair salon and the excellent breakfast.

The Mall, Floriana (2122 5241, www.phoeniciamalta.com). Rates €100-€470 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Moderate Hotel Castille The location of this charming, great-value hotel is hard to beat – just two minutes walk from Merchants Street and the Upper Barrakka Gardens. Located as it is

in a 16th century grand residence, Castille Hotel has captured the charm and luxury of aristocratic medieval life and transported it to the present day with great results. The 38 rooms are wellequipped with period furnishing and wall-to-wall carpets, as well as air-con, bathroom, TV and telephone. Try to secure the room with the Maltese balcony if you can! There’s also a good rooftop restaurant to dine at.

Castille Square (2124 3677, www. hotelcastillemalta.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €55 single; €110 double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Valletta

in English) and comedy, the national theatre is easily one of Malta’s busiest cultural venues.

The theatre season runs from September to May. Old Theatre Street (2124 6389, www.teatrumanoel.com.mt). Box office 10am-1pm, 5-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat. Tickets €5-€50.

Credit DC, JCB, MC, V.

Osborne Hotel This three-star is bright, clean and welcoming. Just off the main thoroughfare of the city, the hotel has large double rooms, each with TV and safe, and many with views of the city. English and continental breakfast are served buffet-style.

The property also has a pool, conference room and sun terrace.

Wi-Fi is available at a charge.

South Street (2124 3656, www. osbornehotel.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €64.50 single; €93 double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Valletta Suites Prepare to be spoilt by designer furniture, a super king-sized bed, Egyptian cotton linen and towels, chocolates and fresh flowers – this is as chic as it comes in the city.

Run by a creative duo, these suites celebrate historic design and modcons, as well as beautiful works of art. A really wonderful place to stay.

Maison La Vallette, St Patrick Street; Valletta Nobile, St Nicholas Street; Lucia Nova, St Lucia Street (7948 8047, www.vallettasuites. com). Rates €125 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cheap British Hotel Promising good-value for money and a central location just a short walk from the centre, this little hotel has been pleasing travellers for decades. It offers its guests free Wi-Fi and welcoming, clean accommodation, as well as a sixth-floor terrace for sunbathing.

Rooms, most of which are twin or triple, are en suite and all have LCD TV and a safe deposit. Most rooms have air-con for an extra charge and the best rooms are on the front, while a communal computer is available for use (at a charge). The restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner even to non-residents, offers traditional Maltese cuisine. Book a table on the balcony for stunning views of the Grand Harbour.

40 Battery Street (2122 4730, www.britishhotel.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €45-€65 single; €65-€85 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 41

St Julian’s Overview and sightseeing 44 Where to eat 44 Where to drink 53 Shopping 53 Nightlife 55 Arts and entertainment 55 Where to stay 56

Photo: Lionel Galea

St Julian’s

St Julian’s

Spinola Bay

A hive of activity St Julian’s highlights just how cosmopolitan Malta is becoming

L

ife here is all about top quality restaurants, sophisticated bars and chic boutiques, and, today, there is barely a nod towards its past as a quaint fishing village. It may not be to everyone’s taste (especially if you prefer natural beauty to man-made pleasures and structures) but it does attract visitors (and locals) in droves.

Portomaso, a picturesque marina, is one of the island’s most upmarket spots, with opportunities for fine dining and designer shopping nearby. Stop for a drink or something to eat before heading into Paceville, the island’s nightlife capital (and especially popular with teens and 20-somethings). Here pubs, bars and clubs remain open until the early hours. Alternatively, leave the hustle and bustle behind for a while and head to the nearby St George’s Bay, the only sandy beach in the area. This Blue Flag beach does get pretty overrun in the summer months, but can still make for a lovely spot to squeeze in a swim or sunbathe.

If late night revelry doesn’t appeal, leave Paceville behind and head down towards Spinola Bay. Here, the promenade connects to the rest of the St Julian’s seafront and beyond.

This is where a few of the area’s former characteristics live on, such as the fishing boats bobbing on the water, the odd boathouse and the occasional townhouse.

Excellent eateries line the shore and promise everything from local specialities to international favourites.

As you walk along the coast, Balluta Bay will come into view – another pretty spot with good restaurants and areas to sit around and enjoy the vistas.

Three villas – one of which has been transformed into a restaurant – with beautiful façades hidden behind tall pine trees in their large front gardens, stand majestically facing the bay.

Opposite, equally elegant yet humble recessed terraced houses line the street. In their midst stands the neo-gothic Carmelite Church with long spindly bell towers, more imposing from the outside than from within. If you want to have a look at one of the townhouses from within, you could book dinner at the exclusive Barracuda Restaurant (see p46), one of the first houses to be built here and now a quality eatery.

The undoubted architectural highlight of the area is Balluta Buildings, near the Carmelite

44 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Church, a monumental apartment block and the legacy of a brief flirtation with art nouveau by some Maltese architects. Its sculpted façade, with repetitive angel motifs, displays elegant flying buttresses. The beach below may have been washed away, but you can take in the atmosphere by sitting in Balluta Square, watching the world go by.

Where to eat St Julian’s is a foodie destination for both locals and foreigners – and it is clear why. There is endless choice here, with local delicacies served at waterfront eateries and international cuisines served in fine-dining surroundings. A must whether you want luxurious fare or a quick snack. fusion Shakinah Within walking distance from Balluta Bay, Shakinah presents Arabian tastes, scents and flavours from the Maghreb to the Middle East, combined with Indian cuisine.

Great emphasis has been placed on the decor, mood and general ambience here, and the end result

is a contemporary, yet elegant ‘living room’ feel. The menu is vast with harira soup or chat pata jhinga to start with, followed by shish taouk (tender, marinated chicken pieces) or lamb roganjosh, jeera rice and garlic naan bread. All meat is halal, and vegetarians are well catered for too.

Gorg Borg Olivier Street (2731 8000, www.shakinahmalta.com).

Open June-Sept 7-11.30pm WedMon; Oct-May also noon-3pm. Main courses €15. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Zeri’s Ask for a table by the large glass windows and expect a feast for the senses at chef Mark Zerafa’s renowned restaurant. Fusion fare is the order of the day – and is absolutely delicious. To start with, try the mushrooms filled with a delicate aubergine and marrow combination, topped with parmesan and served with a sun-dried tomato and rosemary infused oil. For mains, the fresh fish is always a highlight, as are the char-grilled lamb fillets with a fresh yoghurt, mango chutney and curry mint sauce or the char-grilled Black Angus fillet of beef served with either pepper or tartufo sauce.

End your meal with the legendary chocolate fondant. Free parking facilities are available within the Portomaso car park.

Portomaso (2135 9559, www. zerisrestaurant.com). Open 7-11pm daily; Sept-May also noon-2.30pm Sun. Main courses €18-€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

St Julian’s

Zest For a special occasion or indulgent treat, stylish Zest promises that little something special, and dining here feels like a complete experience. The cuisine is international – a mix of Thai, Indonesian, Japanese, Italian and more. After a colourful cocktail on the terrace, move indoors to try the sushi or (our favourite) the beef rendang – a rich and spicy Indonesian curry. If that sounds too daring, opt for the tasty Portobello mushrooms, which are bursting with flavour. Alternatively, try the ‘selection of favourites’ from the menu at just €29.50 per person, which is excellent value.

To finish choose the bento dessert box with raspberry sorbet and chocolate fondant. And don’t forget to order coffee… it is served with exquisite complimentary petits fours.

25 St George’s Road, Spinola Bay (2138 7600, www.zestflavours. com). Open 7-11pm daily. Main courses €23-€35. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. indian

with the fresh black summer truffles or the pappardelle with lobster. For mains we recommend the veal with asparagus, fresh black truffles and caper and butter sauce, as well as the chicken cooked al sale (in salt). Round things off with the oozing home-made chocolate and orange fondant, served with ice-cream.

Qaliet Street (2133 6625, www. assaggi.net). Open June-Sept 7.3011pm Tue-Sun; Oct-May noon2.30pm, 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat; noon3pm Sun. Main courses €17-€35.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Avenue Considered one of the busiest and most popular spots for casual sitdown eats in the Paceville area, the experience here is synonymous with good food and large portions.

The menu is huge, encompassing just about everything you can imagine. The pizzas and pastas are always a good choice, particularly their ‘gondola’ – a closed type of pizza with honey and blue cheese – as well as their linguine al mare.

The beef wellington hits the spot if you’re really hungry, accompanied by crispy vegetables and chunky chips, while the chicken Caesar salad makes for a lighter choice.

Finally, don’t forget to try out their signature dessert – the triple chocolate mousse. Parking at the Portomaso car park is free for two hours.

Gort Street, Paceville (2135 1753, www.theavenuemalta.com). Open noon-2.30pm Mon-Sat; 6-11.30pm daily. Main courses €6€18.50. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Shiva’s Many Indian restaurants have opened on the islands in recent years, but this is certainly one of the best, and it has the awards to prove it. Head-chef Sudip has gathered a team of all-Indian cooks and created a menu that goes right to the soul of Indian kitchen traditions. As is normal with Indian cuisine, vegetarian options feature heavily. We particularly like Badass the vegetable If you’re not hiring a car, taking Burgers samosas the bus is the cheapest and most Unassuming accompanied efficient way of getting around. A from the by a tangy two-hour ticket costs €2.20, while it’s outside, sauce. If €2.60 for a day pass and €12 for a this foodie it’s heat week. Tickets can be bought on board experience you’re after, the bus, or at the Arriva ticketing certainly the gosht booths in Valletta, Bugibba, the shouldn’t vindaloo – airport and in Rabat, Gozo, as be missed – boneless pieces well as at ticketing machines especially if you of lamb in a across the islands. love unforgettable really hot curry burgers. The allsauce – hits the spot Maltese brand has every time, served with injected quality and originality into tasty rice and naan bread, and its menu and developed a truly there are plenty of mild options gourmet burger. And the selection too. Cool things down with an is vast – from a classic, flameauthentic dessert to finish. grilled 100 per cent pure Angus Dragonara Road, Paceville (2138 burger to an original Thai chicken 4399, www.shivasindiancuisine. option and locally inspired items com). Open 7-11pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €9-€18. Credit AmEx, made from rabbit and Maltese DC, JCB, MC, V. sausage. If you’re really hungry, start with the spare ribs or meaty Mediterranean dippers before digging into the real deal, and keep your eyes peeled for their ‘bulk’ offers on 10 or more Assaggi orders. Vegetarian and gluten-free Located just beyond St Julian’s options are available. main thoroughfare, this popular 1 St George’s Road, Spinola Bay spot is run by a husband-and-wife (2138 4066, www.badassburgers. team whose experience includes eu). Open 6-11.30pm Mon-Thur; a stint at Gordon Ramsay’s Maze noon-midnight Fri-Sun. Main Grill in London. Start your meal

jump aboard

46 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

courses €11. Credit MC, V. Other locations Purple, 11-13 George Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2755 6633); Badass Café, 47 Old Theatre Street, Valletta (2122 8347).

Barracuda Few restaurants beat Barracuda on class, ambience and quality – this is a wonderful place to dine. And the A-listers seem to agree with us, as past patrons have included Brad Pitt, Madonna and David Beckham. Snag a table on the beautiful terrace and you’ll enjoy unobstructed views of Spinola Bay and the open sea. This makes the wonderful à la carte menu taste even better – we love the seared fresh scallops or crushed chickpeas and cumin salad served with chorizo oil to start with.

There’s also a selection of pastas and risottos, as well as perfectly cooked meats. As for dessert… always leave room! The dailychanging specials will be hard to resist. And if you want to splash out on your choice of wine, the wine menu, which features the likes of a 1999 Chateau Lafite Rothschild vintage and a 1996 Chateau Angelus 1er Grand Cru Classé, is sure to please.

194/5 Main Street (2133 1817, www.barracudarestaurant.com).

Open 7-11pm daily. Main courses €20. Credit DC, JCB, MC, V. Chapter One The homely atmosphere of this charming eatery sets it apart – along with the exquisite menu.

Head-chef Hiram Cassar has blended favourites with truly exciting flavours, such as the risotto with fresh black truffles to start with, followed by braised veal cheek with artichoke purée and marinated asparagus. Vegetarian options are available on request.

Finish your meal with the luscious desserts, such as home-made icecream or caramelised lemon tart.

9 Church Street, Paceville (2138 0000, www.chapteronemalta.com).

Open June-Oct 7-10.30pm daily; Nov-May 7-10.30pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €18.50-€26. Credit DC, JCB, MC, V. Don Serafino Al Molo New executive chef Salvatore Cartenzano heads the talented team at this delightful restaurant within the pretty Portomaso Marina. Inspired by the sea, Al Molo is especially well-known

LuLu The food at this picture-perfect restaurant, a short walk from the Portomaso Marina, is renowned – and we’re fans of the recently launched ‘fixed price’ three-course concept for €25.95 which includes any starter, main course and dessert from the menu, as well as still water. We love to start with the prawn and courgette risotto or the cherry tomato, caramelised onion and mozzarella tartlet, followed by the braised lamb shank, beef stroganoff or fresh salmon fillet with a stem ginger and lemongrass velouté. Home-made desserts change daily. In summer you may enjoy your meals at the outdoor tables.

31 Church Street (2137 7211, www. lulurestaurant.com). Open 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Meal (three-course, set price) €25.95. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Meat & Co The well-designed restaurant’s large windows overlook stunning Spinola Bay, while you could also secure a table on the terrace if you’re lucky. Self-described as Malta’s first ‘meat boutique’, the focus of this central restaurant is

Photo: viewingmalta.com

Grill 3301 This is THE place for carnivores – the spot where you can expect one of the best steaks on the island.

If you want to sample a variety of meats, we recommend the mixed grill at €37.50 – a sizzling platter of quality cuts of different meats, including beef fillet, chicken, veal medallions and lamb chops.

Prices are on the high side but a complimentary selection of starters to share is served with each main course. Although it’s renowned for meat, the fish here is delicious too.

And the fantastic sea view at this elegant restaurant is the cherry on the cake.

Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay (2370 2537). Open mid Sept-mid May 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat; mid Maymid Sept 7-10.30pm daily. Main courses €25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

dig in A food lover’s paradise

S

t Julian’s is sure to set every food lover’s tongue wagging, with quality restaurants at every turn. From gourmet burgers with foie gras at Badass Burgers (see p46) to Malta’s most expensive pizza comprising white truffles and gold leaf at Margo’s (see p96), and sushi so good it causes long queues at Gochi (see p50), there truly is something to suit all tastes.

Fish lovers would do well to treat themselves to the catch of the day at Don Serafino Al Molo (see p46) within the Portomaso Marina, where it’s sure to be cooked to perfection. Close by is Zeri’s (see p44), famed for its expert Mediterranean cuisine, fused with a hint of Oriental cuisine. For dinner with a view, secure a table on the terrace at elegant Barracuda (see p46) or more laid-back Terrazza (see p50), with unobstructed views of Spinola Bay that will provide the perfect backdrop as you browse the delicious à la carte menu.

If it’s an eatery with a flair for design you’re after, check out the contemporary Zest (see p46), where East meets West in both dining and decor, or enjoy a specialist seafood dining experience while taking in the fabulous view from the balcony of plush Quadro (see p50).

Sciacca (see p50), in the heart of Paceville, is another example of how an eye for detail in design and an expert hand in the kitchen are a recipe for success.

And for an authentic Maltese dining experience, Gululu at Spinola Bay offers traditional food including rabbit, baked pasta and fish soup.

Finally, for night owls on the hunt for good food at all hours, Hugo’s Tapas and Hugo’s Lounge (see p53), serve a vast selection of delicious Mediterranean, Asian and Indian fare, as well as sushi. on quality meat – be it beef, lamb, poultry or pork. If you’re a real meat lover, try the selection of dryaged meats, including the lovely, full-flavoured and marbled tender beef which melts in the mouth.

Besides these fire-roasted options, there’s a selection of gourmet salads and tasty pasta dishes too.

8 St George’s Road (2138 5000, www.meatandco.com.mt). Open noon-3pm, 6.30-11.30pm daily.

Main courses €15-€30. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Palio’s Relax at the casual, family-friendly environment of Palio’s Restaurant – one of Malta’s top casual restaurants located at the Westin Hotel. The cuisine is based on Mediterranean and Italian dishes, with large portions and friendly service. Choose from a large variety of pizzas, pasta dishes, grills and mezes to share. Free parking

is available to all patrons.

Westin Dragonara Resort, Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www. paliosrestaurantmalta.com). Open 7.30-10.30pm daily; also 12.3014.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €12. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Pane & Olio Osteria d’Autore Chef Andrew Pace (renowned locally for his flavourful food) leads the team at this seafront eatery, serving up a delicious selection of fish and meat, as well as traditional Maltese dishes. The decor is fun and inviting, and the food is very reliable – a good-value mix of antipasti, starters, pasta and risotto dishes, fish and seafood choices, as well as a meat lovers section, and of course the daily desserts selections. An excellent choice.

Spinola Road (2138 4780). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight daily.

Main courses €18-€26. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Paranga Seafront dining doesn’t get any more seafront than this! One of the restaurants at the Intercontinental Hotel, Paranga has a following all of its own, and is particularly wellknown for its seafood dishes. Kick start your meal with the gamberoni scottati – pan-seared king prawns with a citrus dressing – or the tagliatelle frutti di mare. Follow your choice with the pan-fried mussels in a delicately spicy tomato sauce or any of the fresh fish dishes. Don’t leave without tasting the white chocolate fondant or moreish brownie with stracciatella ice cream. Recently, Paranga launched the ‘Taste of the Month’, with special offers on everything from raw shellfish to drinks, depending on the time of year.

Your waiter will be able to tell you more. Finally, for a more relaxed vibe, head upstairs to the Paranga Lido (open all day) for cocktails and nibbles overlooking the bay.

The opening hours may change in winter – call ahead.

InterContinental Malta, St George’s Bay (2137 7600). Open 12.30-3pm, 7-11pm daily. Main courses €22.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Peperoncino This hidden gem is loved for its great food and unpretentious vibe, so do overlook the unassuming façade and head indoors to the core of the 300-year-old townhouse (or to a table out on the terrace overlooking the bay). Our favourite starters include the trio of smoked fish or their trademark peperoncino pasta. For mains, the suckling pig is a must if you like meat, while the fish and vegetarian options are also delicious.

9 Bay Street, Balluta Bay (2138 8872, www.peperoncinomalta. com). Open 6.30-11pm Wed-Mon; Oct-June also 12.30-2.30pm Sun. Main courses €20. Credit DC, JCB, MC, V. Peppino’s Restaurant and Wine Bar This friendly restaurant is as renowned for its home-like ambience as it is for its food, as it feels a lot like you’re dining among friends, particularly if you sit at one of the tables on the ground floor, by the bar. International celebrities (including Tom Hanks) have been known to love it here, while it’s just as popular with food-loving locals. Start with the deliciously simple spaghetti with oil, garlic and prawns or the local bruschetta, followed by the daily fresh fish.

Just keep in mind that side dishes, including vegetables, salad or potatoes, come at a charge of €1.50 each. The divine desserts include the triple chocolate cake and crème brûlée. Oh and keep your eyes peeled for artistic gems too – the artwork, often by top local artists, is for sale!

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 49

St Julian’s

for its fish dishes, although its seasonal menu boasts specialities from across the Mediterranean.

The atmosphere here is chic and sophisticated – offering fine dining at the water’s edge. Start with the potato gnocchi with mussels and tomatoes, followed by the seared calamari with crushed potatoes and a gremolata dressing. A tempting selection of desserts follows and, to accompany a great meal, pick from any of the 165 international labels on the wine list. Complimentary parking is available at the Portomaso car park.

Portomaso (2138 4300, www. almolorestaurantmalta.com). Open 7-11.30pm daily. Main courses €18€30. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

St Julian’s

of fish and seafood in various forms – tartare, carpaccio, mixed with pasta and grilled. If that doesn’t float your boat, worry not, as everything here is delicious, so sit back and enjoy. A top choice.

St Augustine Street (2133 1310, www.sciaccamalta.com). Open noon-11pm Tue-Sun; 7-11pm Mon. Main courses €19-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tana del Lupo It’s easy to walk past this restaurant in one of Paceville’s quieter areas, but do keep an eye out for it. With all fish and meat imported from Italy, this eatery stays true to its Mediterranean roots every step of the way. Any of the pasta dishes are great starters, and we also love the Italian fish soup and mixed seafood platter. The rib-eye, which travels from Piemonte, is very popular and is served plain-grilled to ensure you enjoy its natural flavours.

Typical Sicilian desserts make for a happy ending; the pannacotta or cassata Siciliana always go down a treat.

58a Wilga Street, Paceville (2135 3294). Open noon-2.45pm Tue-Sun; 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €19-€25. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

Zest. See p46.

31 St George’s Road (2137 3200, www.peppinosmalta.com). Open noon-2.30pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €16-€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Piccolo Padre This family-run pizza place – a favourite also with locals – overlooks the seafront and is set in a typical 18th-century villa. Head downstairs and try to secure a table with a view – it’s a great spot for watching boats sail by. Start off with tagliatelle pasta with smoked swordfish, leeks, fresh salmon and a touch of cream, followed by baked fresh salmon with a sun-dried tomato crust, served with potato wedges and salad.

Alternatively go with a pizza – such as the spicy diavolo version – with tomatoes, mozzarella, Maltese sausage, peppered Gozo cheese and harissa. The wine list is good too, as are the home-made desserts. It is recommended to book ahead.

195 Main Street (2134 4875, www. piccolopadre.com). Open noon2.30pm, 6.30-11.30pm daily. Main courses €6-€15. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Quadro Fresh fish, seafood and succulent meat are all served up to perfection

at this award-winning seafront restaurant. Located within the five-star Westin Hotel, Quadro is the ideal elegant dining venue for special occasions, business meals and romantic dinners.

Treat yourself to one of their mouth-watering signature dishes – perhaps the fish and shellfish bouillabaisse or the wonderful tagliatelle quadro – cooked with parma ham and Mediterranean prawns in a creamy parmesan sauce. Do leave room for dessert though – creations made in-house are simply divine. Free parking is available.

Westin Dragonara Resort, Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www. quadrorestaurantmalta.com). Open 7.30-10.30pm daily. Main courses €23. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Sciacca Named after the Sicilian fishing village that inspired its creation, Sciacca is a fish bistro that goes beyond its culinary calling. The atmosphere is casual and friendly, but the food is fine-dining and uniquely memorable. The team here – led by talented chef patron Marvin Schembri – emphasises taste in all its forms. If all those at your table like fish, we recommend the fairly-priced fish menu at €39 per person – a several-course feast

50 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Terrazza Recently under new management, Terrazza is back as a firm favourite for 2013 and (we hope) beyond.

Head chef Sebastian Orzechowski has crafted a truly scrumptious menu, with popular choices including the seafood linguine, skimmed meagre and poached salmon with citrus fruits, followed by the delicious cassata mousse or their tangy cheese board. Aside from the food, the large terrace here is a definite pull with lovely views of Spinola Bay. This is an ideal choice if you have dietary requirements too, as the team is more than happy to accommodate.

103 Spinola Road (2138 4939, www.terrazza.eu). Open June-Aug 6-11.30pm Mon-Sat; Sept-May also noon-3pm. Main courses €15.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. U Bistrot Headed by enthusiastic chef and part-owner Matthew, this roadside eatery thrills diners with its fresh fare and innovative menu – it serves up some of the best salads on the island and there are genuine choices for those watching their waistlines. Some of the stalwarts are home-made burgers (a steal at just €7), ravioli and grilled ribeye. Starters include bruschetta and a cheese/meat combo, while our favourite desserts are the home-made chocolate fondant and mouth-watering white chocolate cheesecake – both lovely. A great choice for people-watching and cocktails after sundown.

Balluta Bay (2311 2361, www. ubistrot.com). Open 10am-11pm

Mon-Fri; 9am-11pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €7-€22. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Wigi’s Kitchen Grab a table by the large window with vistas of the bay and the lovely church opposite, and then look forward to a foodie treat – with a regularly changing menu and lovely daily specials. Best known for fish and meat, we particularly recommend the home-made ravioli, Italian antipasti or shellfish platter to start with. Follow this with the catch of the day or the milk-fed veal or rib-eye, served with potatoes and vegetables. Round things off with the signature pear and ricotta cheesecake.

Main Street (2137 7504). Open 12.30-2.45pm, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; mid-Sept-June also 12.302.45pm Sun. Main courses €15€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Oriental Blue Elephant With lush greenery and waterfalls, the Blue Elephant remains one of the most unique restaurants on the island. The menu has changed recently to encompass new dishes, but old favourites still prove popular, such as Lan Massaman, an ancient Thai recipe for lamb curry that was immortalised in a poem by King Rama. We also love the mixed starters, as well as the spicy chicken soup, which has a real kick to it, followed by salmon in a mild curry. There are plenty of vegetarian options, including a set veg-only menu. Dig into the home-made jasmine cake or the carved exotic fresh Thai fruits for a sweet ending. As a memento of the evening, every female receives an orchid imported from the Orient.

Dietary requirements are catered for.

Hilton Malta, Portomaso (2138 3383). Open 7.30-11pm daily. Main courses €13-€20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Gochi This was the first sushi bar of its kind in Malta and locals love it – hence the long queue that usually winds around the block here on summer weekends.

There’s a mixed selection of authentic and westernised sushi, with rolls including tuna-mayo and spicy chicken, salmon avocado and tempura prawn. Low tables are available at the back – it’s a great place to relax as you sit on the floor in true Japanese style.

Alternatively, grab and go, not forgetting a portion of the special Gochi miso-style soup. For great value, choose the €35 Zen platter, which includes a delicious mix of all our favourites.

148 St George’s Road (2138 2411).

Open noon-10.30pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €2-€10. No credit cards.

InterContinental Malta. See p56.

Hugo’s Lounge Hugo’s may have become a popular local brand, but this is where it all began and we love it. The menu is mostly Asian-Fusion, with plenty of fried starters (such as spring rolls and prawn tempura), as well as Eastern soups and curries.

Tuck into the selection of sushi prepared by Japanese chefs, or the vegetarian Vietnamese crystal rolls. The kitchen closes late, long after the restaurant kicks things up a notch for a night of partying.

Get started during Happy Hour (or rather Happy Afternoon, as it’s on daily from 1pm to 6pm); this is an event in itself, with their fantastic cocktails available twofor-one. Lounge music plays in the background throughout and big games are usually shown on the LCD screens.

St George’s Road, Paceville (2138 2264, www.hugosloungemalta.com).

Open noon-4am daily. Main courses €6.50-€16.50. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Okura Authentic Japanese cuisine is served up in a cosy atmosphere at this central sushi bar and restaurant. Highlights include the fresh sashimi and yakatori but if you’re hungry we highly recommend the all-you-can-eat buffet for €23.50. This consists of sushi, soup, salads, appetizers, tempura and yakitori, as well as fried and grilled items, plus rice and noodles – not to mention a dessert of green tea ice-cream or yuzu sorbet. Free parking is available at Portomaso.

9 Landsdown, Paceville Avenue (2781 1888, www.okura.com.mt).

Open 6-11.30pm daily; also noon2.30pm Sun. Main courses €25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Zen There’s a really authentic feel to this top-quality Japanese restaurant which we love for its respect for time-honoured traditions, fresh ingredients and charming hospitality. Zen was the first Japanese restaurant in Malta and it is still widely regarded to be one

of the best, with a wide selection of speciality items including miso soup, sushi, sashimi, vegetable and prawn tempura, as well as fish, meat and vegetarian dishes traditionally cooked at their Teppanyaki table. Saki and Japanese beer are available, and there’s a 10 per cent discount given on take-away orders. Free parking is available at Portomaso.

Portomaso (2138 6500, www. themarinarestaurants.com). Open 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €20-€30. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink St Julian’s – and nearby Paceville – leads the way for everything from pre-dinner drinks to lastorder nightcaps. From Irish pubs to lounge terraces under the stars, the choice is yours.

The Bedouin Bar Unwind right by the water’s edge at the exclusive and unique Bedouin Bar at the Westin Dragonara Hotel. Frequented by a local and foreign crowd, this is a loungestyle environment that never fails to impress. Friday nights have become one of the staples of the summer season, with a cocktail bar, VIP area and a DJ spinning a soundtrack of largely house and lounge tunes in a relaxed environment.

Westin Dragonara Resort, Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www.bedouinbarmalta.com). Open June-Aug 10.30pm-2am Fri. Credit AmEx, MC, V. The Dubliner Irish Pub and Restaurant Owned by an Englishman and an Irishman (no, this isn’t the start of a joke), The Dubliner has become one of the most popular Irish bars on the island and has generated quite a following. Providing some of the best Guinness this side of Ireland, it is proud of its welcoming atmosphere and is usually packed with patrons drinking, chowing down on yummy pub-style food,

Glow Enjoy the stunning views of Balluta Bay as you relax on the terrace at Glow. The atmosphere here is welcoming and exclusive, with lounge music as the soundtrack and finger food being served – not to mention the excellent fresh fruit cocktails. If you’re still peckish, head to The Villa’s restaurant for award-wining Mediterranean cuisine.

The Villa, 39 Main Street (2311 2273, www.thevillamalta.com).

Open 7pm-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Huggins This typical English pub attracts a mixed crowd of locals, foreigners and rugby players who love the atmosphere and, sometimes, the karaoke (which is on daily, except Mondays). There’s always something going on here, especially thanks to the pub food that’s on offer for breakfast, lunch and dinner. As evening falls, it transforms into a club, with a DJ pumping out dance anthems and commercial pop classics, as well as the odd karaoke or band night.

Look out for the reduced prices on select drinks promoted on different nights and keep an eye on the website for details.

Dragonara Road, Paceville (2137 5443, www.hugginspub.com). Open 9am-4am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hugo’s Terrace – Bar and Grill The Hugo’s chain never fails to impress and this is its latest offering. Spend an evening here, or simply get your pre- or postclubbing fix over nibbles (the food is delicious and served between noon and 11pm). The live entertainment and DJs change daily, and the VIP area is pleasingly exclusive. Alternatively pop to its ‘sister’ wine bar, Bacco, on St Rita Steps in St Julian’s (2138 2264.

Open 6pm-4am daily).

St George’s Bay, Paceville (2137 6767). Open noon-4am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hush Bistro Lounge Cafe The decor at this recently opened lounge café is fabulous – while the vast selection of cocktails ensures you find the perfect drink to sip.

Dining here is also a great option, with good-value Mediterranean fare served up by a talented chef duo.

Portomaso Marina (2136 9100, www.hush.com.mt). Open 10am1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Juuls Bar Located on the steps down towards the mélange of restaurants along Spinola Bay, you’d be forgiven for walking right past Juuls and not noticing it was there – but don’t!

Loved by the local bohemian crowd, this is the only reggae bar in Malta and the atmosphere is usually very laid-back. Don’t miss their mojitos – easily the best on the island.

St Joseph Street, Spinola Bay (9989 8444, www.juulsbar.com). Open Apr-Dec 8pm-4am daily. No credit cards.

Ryan’s Irish Bar This Irish-themed venue is a bar by day – with snacks served during the summer months – and a club by night. With a comfortable outdoor terrace and sofas indoors, this is a great hangout spot. At night it is also one of the hippest venues in the area, playing house music, and it is highly popular with younger crowds. During the Champions League or any other football or rugby event, sports aficionados congregate to watch the matches on the big screen and to support their teams. If hunger strikes, tuck into the tasty spare ribs or sizeable burgers. Yum. Spinola Bay (9946 7221). Open noon-2.30pm, 5pm-2am Mon-Thur; noon-4am Fri-Sun. Credit MC, V. Tiffany Sophistication reigns at this ‘boutique bar’, where art and beauty meet a professional sommelier service. Ideal for a pre- or post-dinner drink, you can choose from 300 wines, 50 champagnes, rare whiskys, cognacs, ports, sherries and more. There’s a lovely cocktail list too, and nibbles if you’re feeling peckish. Their Friday jazz nights, entitled Sax and Champagne are particularly popular, as are their Saturday’s Party in Red. Portomaso (2138 9289, www. marinarestaurants.com.mt). Open 6.30pm-6am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Shopping St Julian’s may not have as many stores as Sliema or Valletta, but it’s fast becoming a shopping destination – especially for designer items. The best upmarket shops are around Portomaso, while Bay Street is a good bet for high-street brands and souvenirs.

Arcades and shopping complexes Bay Street Bay Street remains true to its origins as the first shopping complex to open late into the evenings and on Sundays. It is

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 53

St Julian’s

Photo: viewingmalta.com

or watching the big game. Look out for their two-for-one lunchtime offers and live entertainment.

Great fun!

Spinola Bay (2136 7106, www. dublinermalta.com). Open 11am1am daily. Credit JCB, MC, V.

Sarto This is one of the best outlets for a choice of designer brands for men and women, including Burberry, Emporio Armani, Valentino and Blumarine. Derived from the word ‘Sartorial’, Sarto evokes a pleasing sense of craftsmanship. This store is synonymous with luxury and should doubtlessly be a first stop for timeless fashion apparel and stunning accessories, bags and shoes.

Ross Street (2202 1601, www. vfgmalta.com). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hilton Malta. See p56.

a popular mall (with an adjacent hotel and several good-quality food outlets too, including Hard Rock Café and Fluid), spread on three floors. Well-known brands available here include Mexx, Guess, Gas, Armani Jeans, Ecco, Baci Lingerie, Marks & Spencer (food and wine), Tommy Hilfiger, Skechers, Junior’s toyshop, Frank’s perfumery, Chaucer’s bookshop and Adidas, while new additions include the Mangano Fashion Café, Bortex, Jennyfer and Swarovski Crystals.

There are also some great souvenir shops on the ground floor, where you can pick up fun and useful items to take back home. The entrance to the complex often doubles up as a stage for local musicians and other performers, particularly during weekends, and the complex regularly hosts events and fashion shows to celebrate special occasions.

St George’s Bay (2138 0600, www. baystreet.com.mt). Open 10am10pm daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Fashion De Fort Designerwear This well laid-out designer store stocks a great selection of casual and smartwear, as well as swimwear and accessories by Ralph Lauren.

15 Portomaso (2138 7687). Open 10am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hugo Boss It was the first mono-brand designer store of its kind on the

island, and we love it. As another of the very upmarket shops in what is becoming an increasingly designer-oriented road, this smart outlet offers the full Hugo Boss experience for men. Browse the stylish and contemporary Boss Green and Boss Black collections, and find one of the island’s sharpest suit selections in here too.

A must for fashion lovers.

2 Ross Street (2202 1000, www. vfgmalta). Open 10am-8pm MonSat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Malta International Airport Departures Lounge, Gate 1 (2202 1003).

Porto This shop may be small, but it is very well stocked and the items are chosen with great taste. Porto is best known for its affordable luxury bags but the selection also features lovely fashion accessories.

Brands include Ripani, Braccialini, Radley, Tula, Tosca Blu, Lupo, Francesco Biasia, Dyrberg/Kern, Coeur de Lion, Gaby’s, Squadra Blu, Bulatti and Chartage, as well as jewellery designers Nour and Dansk Smykkekunst Copenhagen.

Portomaso Shopping Complex, Portomaso (2137 2079). Open 9.30am-1pm, 3-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 10am-1pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Rebelli Everything at Rebelli reflects a luxurious lifestyle – it’s not just about enjoying the exclusive top Italian designerwear and accessories, but the standard of service and attention to detail too.

Gifts and homeware Cleland & Souchet If it’s luxury homeware you want, you’ll be hard pressed to find better than the selection at Cleland & Souchet, presented in a modern, stylish setting. Products range from wines, champagnes, spirits and fine foods to silverware, gorgeous accessories and contemporary home decor. Here you can find brands such as Broste Copenhagen, Jolipa, Lothantique, Riedel and Casa Bugatti. The store recently also launched its new instore wine café, showcasing its fine gourmet treats and vast selection of over 400 different wines from around the world. For cigar fans, Cleland & Souchet stocks many different cigars from Cuba and the Dominican Republic.

Block 14, Level 0, Portomaso (2138 9898, www.clelandsouchet.com).

Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

Nightlife Paceville has yet to relinquish its crown as nightlife capital and it attracts lively crowds to its streets of bars and clubs.

Nick-named a mini-Ibiza, you can expect music genres from the latest hits to the golden oldies, with a good choice of drinks promotions at most outlets.

Level 22 Sophistication is the crux of why patrons love Level 22. Located at the very top of the Portomaso Tower, it provides plush interior surroundings and a really great

view. Kick-start your evening with a refreshing cocktail, but do expect to pay premium rates (around €3.50 for a vodka mixer). It is one of a kind though, and attracts a very upmarket crowd to take it from lounge bar to club as the evening progresses.

Level 22, Portomaso (2310 2222).

Open July-Aug 9.30pm-4am daily; Sept-June 9.30pm-4am Wed-Sun. Admission free.

Qube, The Vodka Bar As the name suggests, Qube is all about the vodka. With over 60 vodka brands from across the globe and plenty of unusual flavours to choose from, you can create the vodka concoction of your choice – while heavyweights could opt for their famous vodka buckets – a bucket of ice, your favourite vodka bottle and your preferred mixer. Every Wednesday Qube organises themed events, and special promotions are held regularly.

St Rita Street, Paceville (7935 0680). Open 8.30pm-4am daily.

Admission free.

Shadow Lounge Special DJs and a constantly changing line-up keep this spot – another popular link in the Hugo’s chain – bursting with party lovers.

Late and lively, parties at Shadow Lounge are often themed and known to get a little crazy. The bar stocks a great range of spirits, though we also love the freshly made cocktails and champagne-bythe-bottle in the VIP area.

St George’s Road, Paceville (2138 2264, www.shadowloungemalta. com). Open 10pm-4am Fri, Sat. Admission free.

Arts and entertainment This may not be a cultural capital, but it does offer visitors plenty of choice. If you’re looking for an alternative to wining, dining or clubbing, why not hit the casino, watch a 3D movie or play a round of bowling?

Casinos The Casino This is one of the island’s most exclusive casinos. The newlyrefurbished lounge area sets the scene, and this is the place to grab a quiet drink before making your way over to the roulette or poker tables. There are all sorts of other games to keep you entertained, including slots and punto banco, with daily Texas Hold’ Em poker tournaments and cash games.

The dress code is smart casual with no shorts and sleeveless shirts allowed after 8pm. You must present proof of identity on your

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 55

St Julian’s

Much effort is made to ensure comfort and satisfaction, and you can enjoy a drink at the inhouse bar as you mull over your purchases. Located just opposite the Portomaso Marina it is easy to find, and you’ll be glad you did. Brands here include Roberto Cavalli, Pinko, Dsquared, Marta Ferrari and Elisabetta Franchi.

Church Street, Portomaso (2138 4050, www.rebelli.com). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

St Julian’s

first visit and foreign nationals must be over 18 years old. Keep up with the various events that happen (especially poker tournaments) on their website. Free parking is offered, and their fantastic à la carte restaurant opens from 7pm daily.

Portomaso (2138 3777, www. portomasocasino.com). Open Slot machines & gaming tables 10am5am Sun-Thur. Other locations Oracle Casino, Qawra Seafront, St Paul’s Bay (2157 0057).

Dragonara Casino Barrière Located in a 19th-century palace built by Marquis Scicluna as his summer residence, there’s a lot of historical value to this iconic spot.

The Dragonara Casino is right on the water’s edge, and it certainly feels very special. The team behind this place has spent over €14 million on state-of-the-art gaming equipment and technology, as well as on refurbishing the space. The result is a gaming haven: with slots, all sorts of table games and numerous poker tournaments throughout the week. The on-site Dragonara Casino Brasserie (also called the Marquis Terrace in the summer), serves up delicious Sicilian cuisine.

Dragonara Palace (2138 2362, www.dragonaracasino.com). Open 24hrs daily.

Film Eden Cinemas It’s mainly Hollywood releases (shown in English) that you’ll see here at Malta’s largest cinema complex, though you will spot the odd local or independent film too. The first show is usually on daily at around 2pm, while the last show kicks off at about 11.45pm.

The bar serves popcorn, nachos, smoothies and other snacks, and there’s a pick-and-mix sweet shop. Blockbusters are shown in massive Cinema 16, while three digital screens show 3D movies in 7.1 Dolby sound. Tickets may be purchased online. Kids under three go free, except for the cost of the 3D glasses. If films are not your thing, look out for the screening of pre-recorded operas and ballets, as well as the occasional comedy show.

St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0400, www.edencinemas. com.mt). Screens 17. Tickets €3.50€9. Credit DC, MC, V. Sports and leisure Cynergi Cynergi – Malta’s largest and most popular gym – has undergone quite a change. It’s now home to 10 elliptical trainers, six rowers, nine steppers, 24 treadmills and a variety of plate-loaded machines, to name but a few. They also recently added a TRX Suspension

it’s time to... tuk-tuk!

A

uto rickshaws, more commonly known as tuk-tuks, are usually associated with exotic places like Thailand or India. Nevertheless, they’ve managed to find their way onto Malta’s busy roads

too!

“We are looking at providing a holistic experience,” says Christian Ellul Vincenti, the man behind local tuk-tuk initiative, Dudu. “They’re green, help to create jobs and put the fun back into public transport.

They’re great for those journeys that are too far to walk but not worth catching a taxi for.”

And while these tuk-tuks cannot yet be summoned by phone or online, you will spot them whizzing round most towns and villages. If you do, hail one down and jump aboard! Visit www.dudu.com.mt for more information.

Trainer – a celebrated workout system that leverages gravity and your bodyweight to perform hundreds of exercises. Classes include spinning, pilates and body conditioning, while there’s also a 17m heated indoor pool, sauna, steam room, Turkish baths and the Carisma Spa next door.

Personal trainer services, as well as swimming lessons for kids are available.

St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0700, www.cynergi.com.mt).

Open 6am-10pm Mon-Fri; 6am8pm Sat; 8am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Eden Superbowl Eden Superbowl is the only bowling alley in Malta, and boy do they make it fun. With 20 lanes, a busy pool and computer games area, large screen showing sporting events and a well-stocked bar, you can spend many happy hours at this bustling bowling alley. Two yearly international tournaments are organised: the first has no age limit while the other is for seniors only. Disco Bowling is held every Friday night with a DJ and UV glowing lanes.

Expect regular special offers – such as their €10 for two games special from Monday to Friday.

56 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0777, www.edensuperbowl. com). Open 10am-midnight daily.

Admission per game €6.50 MonFri; €6.95 Sat, Sun (including shoe hire); €5.50 per game under-14s.

Lanes 20. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

Where to stay Many of the island’s most exclusive resorts are located in St Julian’s, but you can find everything from unabashed fivestar luxury to dinky great-value options here. Book ahead but do expect to pay a little more than in other areas.

Expensive Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay One of the first five-stars in the area, this Corinthia Hotel has retained its charm and makes for a wonderful place to stay. The bedrooms, most of which enjoy a sea view, are all beautifully decorated and have good amenities. The facilities are great too, including three swimming pools and an outdoor pool for children, several restaurants and direct access to a rocky beach.

If you plan to kick back, don’t

miss the Apollo Day Spa, with its fantastic beauty and relaxation treatments, and al fresco massages, as well as a fitness centre, heated indoor pool and sauna.

St George’s Bay (2137 4114, www.corinthia.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €160 single; €280 double.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Hilton Malta Luxury is the name of the game at Hilton Malta, from the calibre of the restaurants to the sophistication of the rooms. The lobby is lavish and welcoming, extending towards the 410 rooms, which include six incredible family suites. The whole complex overlooks an award-winning yacht marina and the open sea. Rooms are simple, elegant and spacious, with a distinct Mediterranean touch. The star feature is the extensive outdoor area, with four large pools and two kids’ pools.

If you plan to wine and dine, you’re also in good hands, with five restaurants (two of which are only open during the summer) and three bars to choose from.

Mind and body are also seen to with several treatments offered at the Myoka 5 Senses Spa. Besides the typical beauty and relaxation packages, the spa also offers botox fillers and a solarium, as well as an indoor heated pool, sauna and steam room.

Portomaso (2138 3383, www. hiltonmaltahotel.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €180-€1855 single/ double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. InterContinental Malta Conveniently and centrally located in the prime area of St George’s Bay, the InterContinental Malta redefines the meaning of elegance with its contemporary design and modern ambience. Here, all of the 451 designer-led bedrooms are superbly furnished, with comforts to make you feel right at home.

The extensive facilities include seven restaurants, four bars, the Club InterContinental Lounge, the InterContinental Beach Club and a small private sandy beach, a lagoon-styled outdoor panoramic swimming pool, indoor pool, large fitness centre with two squash courts, 70 cardiovascular machines, spa with a traditional Turkish Hamam, hairdressing salon, kids’ club, 24hour room service and a business centre. WiFi is free.

St George’s Bay (2137 7600, www. intercontinental.com/icmalta).

Rates (incl breakfast) €171.50 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort Situated on the road leading up from St George’s Bay, the Marina Hotel boasts an enviable

Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s Close enough to the action of St Julian’s, but far away enough to be really tranquil, the Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s promises many happy mediums. The hotel is another one within the ‘Golden Triangle’ of five-stars in the area. The crystal-clear blue Mediterranean Sea is underneath your window; close enough for the sound of the waves, lapping against the jagged rocks, to lull you to sleep at night in one of the 252 comfortable bedrooms. The in-house wellbeing salon offers a wide range of beauty treatments, while amenities include a gym, sauna, massage room and hairdressing salon, as well as an indoor heated pool and an outdoor pool complex. The excellent food and beverage options include Le Bistro, The Edge and fine-dining Kon Tiki.

St George’s Bay (2137 4894, www. radissonblu.com/stjuliansresortmalta). Rates (incl breakfast) €158 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Westin Dragonara Resort Set within the exclusive private grounds of the former Marquis Scicluna’s summer residence, the Westin is a sophisticated and refreshing haven. We love the aura of the 340 sea view guest rooms and suites, all of which feature the renowned ‘heavenly bed’ and have large private balconies. The hotel also boasts the largest landscaped gardens in the area, so there’s plenty of space to explore if you fancy some alone time surrounded by greenery. The hotel offers an impressive range of facilities, including a large freeform pool, well-equipped fitness centre, beach lido, kids’ club, various quality restaurants, a small shopping complex and casino (see p56). The hotel also has access to two private outdoor pools and offers diving and other water sports like jet-skiing, para-kiting and canoeing.

Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www.westindragonaramalta.com).

Rates €185-€200 single/double.

Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

Moderate The George Hotel This is one of just a few ‘eco’ and ‘designer’ accommodation options on the island. Located right in the heart of Malta’s entertainment district, this boutique hotel has become popular for both leisure and business stays. The good news is that – thanks to the double glazed apertures – it doesn’t matter how noisy it gets outside because of the clubs close by, you’ll still sleep soundly in peace and quiet. Each of the 112 rooms is spacious and bright, and some have lovely views to boot.

Amenities include internet access in each room (both wired and Wi-Fi), LCD TVs, iPod docking stations and in-room dining.

There’s an urban spa for when it all gets a bit too much, with a heated swimming pool, sauna, jacuzzi and fantastic selection of treatments.

Paceville Avenue (2011 1000, www.thegeorgemalta.com). Rates €110-€150 single; €120-€160 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Golden Tulip Vivaldi The Golden Tulip Vivaldi has 263 elegantly furnished and spacious rooms. Located in the centre of Paceville, the team here recently installed double-glazing to keep the noise out, and it works. On the seventh floor you’ll find the Settimo Cielo restaurant with beautiful views of St Julian’s and the Mediterranean, as well as a rooftop swimming pool and sun-bathing area. Meanwhile, you can pamper yourself at the on-site Newtones Leisure Club, and make the most of facilities including a fitness room, aerobics centre, indoor swimming pool, jacuzzi, massage parlour, sauna and Turkish baths. Underground parking is available for residents.

Dragonara Road (2137 8100, www.goldentulipvivaldi.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €125 single; €135 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hotel Juliani We love this little hotel – with its designer element, brilliant location, fresh Mediterranean decor and individual touches. As it is family-run, the focus is on friendly service, which is often something guests remember long after they’ve checked out.

The rooms – some of which have unobstructed sea views over Spinola Bay – are bright, comfortable, spacious and have large bathrooms as well as air-con, complimentary Wi-Fi, DVD player and TV, and there’s a swimming pool on the roof. Café Juliani in the lobby offers a recently reworded menu of fresh flavours, while Fusion restaurant Zest on the first

Club • Lounge in the highest building in Malta.

Open 09.30pm till late.

Level 22Club • Portomaso Business Tower • Lounge St. Julians. Tel 2310 2222 in the highest building in Malta. www.22.com.mt Malta’s most exclusive nightclub

Open 09.30pm till late.

Level 22 • Portomaso Business Tower St. Julians. Tel 2310 2222 www.22.com.mt Malta’s most exclusive nightclub

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 57

St Julian’s

location. The hotel has 200 rooms, including 11 suites with unobstructed views of the surrounding area and four family rooms. The best thing about this hotel is that it is a four-star with the facilities of a five-star (as it shares amenities with sister hotel the Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay next door). These include various restaurants, pools, water sports and other activities – you’ll be spoilt for choice.

St George’s Bay (2370 2000, www. marinahotel.com.mt). Rates €170€375 single/double. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

floor (see p46) serves top-notch international fare.

25 St George’s Road (2138 8000, www.hoteljuliani.com). Rates €120€150 single; €130-€160 double.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

Le Méridien St Julian’s Hotel and Spa Le Méridien is a welcoming place – so much so that it’s one of the only hotels in Malta to accept pets (up to 5kg in weight). From the lobby to

Cheap Boho Hostel This bohemian hostel – created by backpackers, for backpackers – attracts solo travellers (as well as groups) from all over the world.

Part of the recent hostel revolution in Malta, it became an overnight hit thanks to its location, young team and friendly feel. It has four dorm rooms (one for men, one for women and two mixed), each sleeping six guests and overlooking

St Julian’s

Hotel Valentina This very stylish hotel is familyowned, modern, contemporary and very centrally located for public transport, as well as clubs, bars and shops. Following recent works, it now has 94 rooms available for single and double occupancy, while facilities include large LCD TVs, air-conditioning, iPod/iPad docking stations, free Wi-Fi and a residents-only pool on the roof. The location is ideal if you plan to party – right in the heart of Paceville and just a few minutes’ walk away from St George’s Bay. It’s a great, goodvalue stay with friendly staff to help you get the most out of your holiday. Free underground parking is available for guests.

Dobbie Street, Paceville (2138 2232, www.hotelvalentina.com).

Rates €60-€115 single/double.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

the spa, this is a grand space with very good facilities. The 276 rooms include numerous suites and a good proportion of them have sea views. Perfectly located, you’re far enough from the entertainment hotspots to offer peace and quiet but close enough to them to make them accessible on foot. There’s a rooftop swimming pool with inspiring views of Balluta Bay and a fitness centre. Meanwhile, to release any stress, the spa is excellently equipped with a large indoor heated pool, sauna, jacuzzi, steam room and hydrotherapy baths, and offers a long list of body massage treatments.

39 Main Street, Balluta Bay (2311 0000, www.lemeridienmalta.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €110-€120 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Le Méridien St Julian’s Hotel and Spa

the garden. Additionally, there is one private double bedroom with an en suite bathroom though you’ll need to book well ahead if you hope to nab it! Always clean and welcoming, this is a truly goodvalue accommodation option.

Cycas, Guzeppi Xerri Street (2765 6008, www.bohohostel.com). Rates €18-€22 shared room. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hostel Malti Set in a converted Maltese townhouse dating back around 100 years, this hostel, situated on the outskirts of St Julian’s, has four

bright and airy dormitories – all equipped with individual lockers – as well as a fully-equipped kitchen.

The team running this place is strict about quiet time after 11pm and also enables lie-ins thanks to the blackout curtains in each of the rooms (and who doesn’t love a lie-in?). Great for giving personal attention, your hosts will encourage you to try kite surfing, biking, snorkelling and more. A fun and vibrant place to stay.

41 Birkirkara Hill, Ta’ Giorni (2730 2758, www.hostelmalti.com).

Rates €17-€22 shared room; €80 private room. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 59

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Mario Galea

The Three Cities & Around Overview and sightseeing Where to eat Where to drink Arts and entertainment

62 64 66 66

Photo: viewingmalta.com

Three Cities

The Three Cities & Around

Vittoriosa Marina

Steeped in history As one of the most historically rich parts of Malta, the Three Cities take you back in time through winding alleys and interesting museums

T

o turn back time and really enjoy the essence of yesteryear, head to the Three Cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, referred to in Maltese as Birgu, Isla and Bormla respectively).

Largely ignored by tourists in the past, the Three Cities – known collectively as Cottonera, after Grand Master Cottoner who built their inland defences – have become increasingly popular in recent years, due to a largescale rehabilitation programme, including the restoration of derelict buildings and the development of the Vittoriosa Waterfront, now a port of call for countless yachts and super yachts.

The port city of Vittoriosa, with majestic Fort St Angelo at its tip, has been described as the ‘cradle of Maltese history’. It flourished under the Knights of St John, with the building of grand palaces and public buildings, but suffered great damage during the Great Siege of 1565 and World War II. The city was granted its triumphant name – Civitas Vittoriosa (Victorious Town) –

by Grand Master de Valette, to

honour its crucial role in the Great Siege.

Most of its architecture harks back to the time of the Knights, as they chose the city as their seat upon their arrival in Malta and stayed there until they built Valletta. In fact, they immediately set out to put their mark on the city; the fortifications were strengthened to create a protective barrier against the outside world and splendid baroque buildings, most of which still stand today, including the auberges of the Knights, the church of Saint Lawrence, designed by Malta’s most prominent baroque architect Lorenzo Gafà, the Inquisitor’s Palace and the Bishop’s Palace, were erected.

Fort St Angelo, where the Knight representative of the Sovereign Order of St John, His Excellency Fra John Critien still resides, remains a jewel of Malta’s military heritage and one of the finest fortifications found anywhere in the world.

Although it is currently not open to the public, this will change once its extensive restoration is completed.

62 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

The main street (Main Gate Street) used to divide the city of Vittoriosa into two distinct parts – the ‘natives’ resided on the western side, while the Knights occupied the charming Collacchio area, where all the baroque gems are to be found in a maze of pretty winding streets.

Today this division has completely disappeared and a walk through the area is a delight, revealing several architectural treasures and hidden gems. Keep an eye out for the shrapnel marks on the façade of the Inquisitor’s Palace – a vivid reminder of the extent of the blitz the Three Cities were subjected to in the last world war.

Like Vittoriosa, Senglea played an important role in the siege of 1565 and remained unconquered, earning the title Civitas Invicta (Unconquered City) from Grand Master de Valette. Situated on a peninsula jutting out into the open sea, Senglea was founded in the mid-16th century and its design and planning was inspired by the new ideas that emerged during the Renaissance, with a grid-like layout of streets.

The start of the Great Siege brought progress in the area to

a swift halt, as the Three Cities found themselves the target of heavy attacks. Although Senglea and Vittoriosa withstood the attacks well, neighbouring Cospicua sustained very serious damage.

Plan your itinerary depending on the time you allocate to the Three Cities, but your first stop should definitely be Vittoriosa.

Wander around the Collacchio, before heading to the Vittoriosa Waterfront where you can enjoy the beautiful buildings on one side, many housing cafés and restaurants, and the stunning yachts on the other.

If it’s a dose of history you’re after, wander toward the Inquisitor’s Palace, the only remaining one of its kind, or, for relaxation, take a short trip around the harbour on a typical Maltese boat (dghajsa) that leaves from the Vittoriosa Waterfront.

While travelling from Vittoriosa to Senglea stop to take in the grandest remaining building in Cospicua, the Collegiate Church of the Immaculate Conception, rich in beautiful works of art.

When in Senglea, awarded the title of European Destination of Excellence for Aquatic Tourism (co-financed by the European Union) in 2010, head to Gardjola Garden to enjoy the views of Valletta and then move on to visit Our Lady of Victories Church, followed by a stroll along the Senglea Waterfront.

Churches Our Lady of Victories Church Elevated to the rank of basilica by Pope Benedict XV on 3 January 1921, this church – originally built in 1743 and named after the Great Siege victory – boasts the oldest and only crowned titular statue on the Maltese islands. The church was rebuilt after it was destroyed during an aerial attack in 1941 and consecrated in 1957. Many visitors come for the miraculous healing powers that the statue of ‘Kristu Redentur’ (Christ the Redeemer), found in the chapel adjacent to the church, is believed to have. A monument in front of the church was erected in memory of those who died in World War II. Try not to visit during religious functions if possible.

Pope Benedict XV Square, Senglea (2182 7203). Open 6-11.45am, 4-6.45pm daily. Admission free.

St Lawrence Church This is the oldest church in Malta and is said to have been a gift from Count Roger the Norman on his arrival in 1090. It is dedicated to St Lawrence and originally served as the conventual church of the Order of St John between 1530

Three Cities

and 1571, before St John’s CoCathedral in Valletta was built. The present church, a fine example of Roman baroque architecture was built between 1681 and 1697, and was designed by Malta’s most prominent baroque architect, Lorenzo Gafà. The neighbouring parish museum (open 9.30-noon daily), with its eclectic collection of religious items such as the priedieu (kneeler) that marks the spot where Grand Master de Valette prayed during the Great Siege of 1565, is worth a visit.

Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa (2182 7057). Open 9.30amnoon, 4.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat; 9.30-10.30am, 4.30-5.30pm Sun. Admission free.

Museums Malta At War Museum This museum, housed in an 18thcentury military barracks within the Couvre Porte in Vittoriosa, documents what life was like during the war in Malta and how this island succeeded in withstanding one of the fiercest onslaughts in modern history.

Visitors can explore the air-raid shelters, take in the extensive memorabilia collection and watch a 30mins audio-visual documentary, ‘Malta G.C.’, about Malta’s role in World War II. The documentary is produced by the British Crown Film Unit and narrated by Sir Laurence Olivier.

Couvre Porte, Vittoriosa (2189 6617, www.wirtartna.org). Open 10am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission €8; €7 concessions; €6 under-16s.

Places of interest

all. Between 1530 and 1571 it was reserved for the Knights, with bollards marking the areas that were ‘out of bounds’ for common citizens. It was here that the Knights built their auberges, a state-of-the-art hospital, large, high-ceilinged townhouses and grand palaces, many of which still stand today. You may stroll where prominent personalities, scholars and artists, such as Grand Master de Valette, Grand Master L’Isle Adam and many young ecclesiastical dignitaries who later became popes, have lingered. Roam around aimlessly but make sure to walk through the following streets: Hilda Tabone Street, the city’s former main street, dotted with beautiful buildings, il-Majjistral Street, a pretty, partlystepped street housing the Auberge d’Angleterre that is today used as a library (ask the librarian to let you in), equally attractive Tramuntana Street, its highlight being the Norman House, and il-Palazz talIsqof Street, home to the grand, now-abandoned Bishop’s Palace, built in 1542 and enlarged in 1620.

The Collacchio The ancient part of the city of Vittoriosa is known as the Collacchio – and it has seen it

Fort Rinella Built in 1878 to house the massive 100-tonne Armstrong gun (the largest ever), this was the most

Malta Maritime Museum Set in what was originally the naval bakery of the British forces, this museum first opened its doors in 1992 with just one major hall, but has grown substantially since, thanks to private donations and the collection of artefacts from other museums. The museum charts Malta’s rich sea-related history, with Roman anchors and amphorae found in Roman shipwreck sites among the highlights, as well as a unique square-rigged ship model from 1777. The clock tower here was recently restored to its former glory and now chimes quarterly.

Ask for a guided tour of the interiors of the tower which boasts a clock engine that pre-dates the building by 30 years.

Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa (2166 0052, www.heritagemalta. org). Open 9am-5pm daily.

Admission €5; €3.50 concessions.

important British-era military post built. The gun, capable of piercing the steel plates of ships, was mounted in Fort Rinella to protect the entrance of the Grand Harbour.

Word has it that Jules Verne was inspired to write his novel ‘Voyage to the Moon’ following a visit to the fort in 1889. He described the fort as a marvel of the industrial age, which would render Malta safe forever. Live re-enactments of life in the fort in the Victorian era and a 20mins audio-visual production are shown throughout the day.

The main animated tour is held at 2pm and is worth a visit, with soldier drill exercises, a cavalry competition and gun firing.

St Rocco Road, Kalkara (2180 9713, www.wirtartna.org). Open 10am-5pm Tue-Sun. Tours on the hr. Admission €10; €8 concessions; €5 under-16s.

Fort St Angelo Major restoration works are ongoing here to bring the fort back to its former glory and open it to the public. Situated bang in the centre of the Grand Harbour, it is a wonderful legacy of Malta’s military heritage, although the date of its original construction still remains unknown. It became the seat of the Grand Master and

the Order of St John’s primary fortification when, upon their arrival in Malta, the Knights settled in Vittoriosa. During the Great Siege of 1565, the fort was crucial to the Knights’ withstanding the Turks. Though various reinforcements and modifications enlarged and strengthened the fort, today’s layout is largely attributed to the design of the Spanish military engineer Colonel Don Carlos de Grunenburgh, carried out in the late 17th century.

His coat of arms still stands above the main gate. The fort retained its importance under the British and it was handed to the Maltese government when the Royal Navy left Malta in 1979. For the best views of this imposing fort, stop at St Barbara Bastions or the Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta, or along the Valletta Waterfront.

Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa.

Gardjola Garden As you walk around Senglea, be sure to stop at this pretty garden to take in the views. Surrounded by bastions, this is the only public garden in the fortified city, and it stands above the fortifications overlooking the capital. It was built in 1551 by Grand Master de la Sengle and owes its name to

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 63

Inquisitor’s Palace The latest addition to this interesting museum is a refurbished cell, which sheds yet more light on what life here must have been like. One of the few remaining palaces of its kind, this architectural gem served as the Civil Law Courts during the time of the Order of St John. It was built in phases, with the oldest parts dating back to pre-1530. It was then used as the residence of the island’s inquisitors until 1798 and hosted a number of high-ranking officials who have left their mark on the structure of the building. Further recent additions include the opening of the Inquisitor’s bedroom and the launch of a new visitors’ trail, both of which are very interesting. It is also home to the museum of Ethnography, which focuses on popular devotions and religious values pertaining to Maltese identity and culture. Moreover, there is a permanent exhibition on the impact of the Inquisition on Maltese society, which studies themes such as the Eucharist, the Holy Family and the cult of saints.

Look out for the combo ticket offer if you visit the palace and the Malta Maritime Museum.

Main Gate Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7006, www.heritagemalta.org).

Open 9am-4.30pm daily. Admission €6; €4.50 concessions; €3 under16s.

Senglea Waterfront Quieter and more authentic than the Vittoriosa Waterfront which lies right across it, this waterfront offers an insight into the slowerpaced way of life of the locals.

Watch the boats sail slowly by and local families enjoying the evening and the fresh sea air at the kiosks along the promenade. Visit at dusk and enjoy views of the beautifully lit Vittoriosa Waterfront and the yachts berthed there.

Senglea Vittoriosa Waterfront Rain or shine, the stunning Vittoriosa Waterfront is packed with people, strolling along or enjoying a drink by the water’s edge. The waterfront has undergone a complete transformation in recent years, and now boasts a number of stylish restaurants and cafés, several luxurious apartments and a home furnishings boutique. The many yachts and super-yachts which dot this private marina constitute attractions in their own right and it’s fun to walk past them and imagine life aboard. Make sure

s p e n d a d ay i n t h e a r e a Our recommended itinerary Photo: viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

Three Cities

the sentry box – gardjola – which juts out over the sea. This pictureperfect setting, featured on many postcards, is growing in popularity as a wedding venue.

Senglea

I

f you only have one day to dedicate to the south of the island, get an early start with a strong coffee at Café du Brazil or one of the other cafés in Vittoriosa’s charming main square. Explore the area and walk up to the Inquisitor’s Palace (see left) for a history lesson or down to the waterfront (see below) to take in the scenery, charming buildings and stunning yachts.

But you should also venture outside the cities and discover the treasures of the south. If you’re taking the cultural route, a visit to the unique Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum (which, to ensure its conservation, is only open to a maximum of 80 visitors a day, so you have to book ahead) and the Tarxien Neolithic temples (constructed between 3,600 and 2,500 BC, and notable for their complexity, fine construction and variety of figural carvings) close by is a must. Other historical sites a short way away include the 5,000-year-old megalithic temple complexes of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra (pictured) in Qrendi, which are among the most ancient religious sites on earth, and Ghar Dalam in Birzebbugia, where the earliest evidence of human settlement in Malta was discovered.

If all the running around has gotten the better of you, cool off with a refreshing dip at Pretty Bay or Peter’s Pool in the vicinity, or head over to Wied iz-Zurrieq for a glimpse of the beautiful Blue Grotto.

Hungry? Malta’s freshest fish can be found at the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, where you can relax and have your fill at one of the many restaurants along the water’s edge, and at the more modern seaside town of Marsascala. to walk right to the end of the waterfront, where the foundations of Fort St Angelo lie, and enjoy more breath-taking views.

Vittoriosa

Where to eat Recent years have seen a number of wonderful restaurants pop up in the Three Cities and around – particularly ones with a focus on local ingredients. Nearby areas, such as the fishing villages of Marsaxlokk and Marsascala, are known for down-to-earth food and seafood specialities. mediterranean Chukkas Bar and Grill If you’re a meat lover, then this laid-back eatery should top your must-visit list: the authentic log-grilled Argentinian steaks at Chukkas, within the local polo club, are a taste of heaven. We love the mixed starter of homemade sausages, fried cheese and bruschetta, as well as the pasta

64 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Maltese sausage and capers). If you are not particularly hungry, share the seafood platter or Milano platter, washed down with some wine. Or, for a heartier meal, the fillet with lemon sauce, the mixed fish platter or the octopus in wine and garlic are delicious. Besides the extensive wine list, they also have their own Three Cities wine, produced and bottled by local winemakers Marsovin. A good-value-formoney spot.

Main Gate Street, Vittoriosa (2701 7470, www.dcentre.com.mt). Open 10am-midnight daily. Main courses €18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Don Berto There’s an old-meets-new mix at Don Berto that charms from the word go. Enjoy the warmth inside, or sit on the terrace overlooking the marina and dig into the chef’s fagottini – baby pasta baskets stuffed with taleggio cheese and soft pears tossed in cheese fondue and walnuts. To follow, try the honey roasted organic pork fillet, stuffed with sage and chestnuts, and served in a port wine jus.

Finally, indulge in the moreish chocolate fudge cake for afters. If you’re not up for a sizeable meal, you can opt for lighter options such as platters, washed down with a bottle of wine.

Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa (2180 8008, www.donberto.com).

Open July, Aug 7-11pm Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-11pm Sun; Sept-June noon-3pm Tue-Sat; 7-11pm Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses €7-€22. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

tartufo. Follow that with the Wagyu beef rump or suckling pig (mostly served in winter) or the 1kg ribeye. The choice of wine, both local and foreign, is extensive and the desserts – particularly the banoffee pie and chocolate mousse – come highly recommended. When the horse races are on, you can eat with the unique view of the busy race-track below. There’s a long waiting list, so book ahead.

The Malta Polo Club, Marsa Sports Ground, Marsa (2122 8476, www. chukkasmalta.com). Open June-Sept 7-10.30pm daily; Oct-May noon2.30pm daily; 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

La Favorita La Favorita continues to offer an outstanding menu featuring a good selection of fresh fish and seafood, best enjoyed on the small outdoor terrace. You can rely on affable owners Phyllis and Josef to give sound advice on what to order, and to let you in on whether the fish is local or foreign, line-caught or farmed – but the seafood platter here is hard to beat. To finish off, dig into their desserts – our favourite is the chocolate cake and cheesecake, made by members of the family.

Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 4113). Open noon-2.30pm Tue-Sun; 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €12-€19.50. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

D Centre Located on the ground floor of a centuries-old building, this pretty spot has retained much of its character. The food is tasty and unpretentious – we suggest the ravioli with curry and honey, pesto, cream and fried shrimps to start with, or the Maltese Falcon pizza (topped with the basics, as well as gbejniet – Maltese cheeselets –,

La Spigola La Spigola is one of the south’s best kept secrets and in our opinion one of the top three fish restaurants on the island. Grab a table on the terrace during the summer months and enjoy a fantastic plate of pasta with sea urchins or squid ink for starters, followed by your choice of fresh fish for mains. Chef Gerardo Carannante, who runs the pretty,

in GUARDIA in Birgu A historical re-enactment of a full 16th century military parade (Knights’ Period)

2013 Schedule IN GUARDIA

September 22, 29 | October 6, 13, 20, 27 November 3, 10, 17, 24 | December 29

2014 Schedule IN GUARDIA

January 5 | February 23 | March 9, 16, 23, 30 | April 6, 27 May 4, 11, 18, 25 | June 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 | July 6, 13 VENUE: ST JOHN’S CAVALIER – COUVRE PORTE, BIRGU (VITTORIOSA). 11.00 – 11.45AM ADMISSION FEE: Adults €7 | Children and Students €3 HOW TO GET THERE: Valletta Bus Terminus: Bay 14 - Bus No 2 (to Birgu) or 3 (to Kalkara) Departure: c. every 15 mins - Duration of trip: c. 30 mins Bus stop: at Terminus / Café Riche just outside Birgu

for more information: tel: 2291 5440/1/2 info@visitmalta.com www.visitmalta.com

Three Cities

rustic restaurant together with his wife Carmen, ensures that only the best fish makes it to your plate. There are also exquisite meat dishes for those who aren’t too fond of fish. All desserts are home-made and superb, though the Nutella gâteau and the torta della nonna – a pastry, served warm, filled with pine nuts, lemon and crema pasticcera – win hands down.

St Nicholas Street, Marsascala (2163 4288). Open 6.30-11pm Wed-Mon; also noon-3pm Sun OctJune. Main courses €23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Lupanara Hidden away in a small inlet within Fort St Angelo, this picturesque location is ideal for outdoor dining.

The Mediterranean cuisine is tasty and that little bit different.

Highlights include a carpaccio of fresh prawns with beetroot and vanilla scented oil, followed by the fresh fish of the day, and completed with the local imqaret (date cakes) served with honey and ice-cream.

An excellent choice.

Fort St Angelo, Vittoriosa Waterfront (2180 3086). Open June-Oct 6pm-midnight daily; NovMay 6pm-midnight Tue-Sun; also noon-3.30pm Sun. Main courses €22. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Grabiel This is one of Malta’s best-loved fish restaurants, and for good reason. Don’t expect much from the decor, but instead turn your focus to the food. Try the divine pasta with rizzi (sea urchins) or squid ink, followed by the fresh local sea bass or the fried or stewed octopus served in a garlic and white wine sauce. For meat lovers, the oriental duck breast with stir-fried vegetables and served on a bed of egg-fried rice won’t disappoint. Book well ahead as it’s popular at all times of day and night.

Mifsud Bonnici Square, Marsascala (2163 4194, www.grabiel.eu). Open noon-2.30pm Tue-Sun; 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €22. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Tal-Familja This family-run restaurant – led

by Charles Preca and his two daughters – has a wow factor as well as the atmosphere of home.

Popular with local families, its specialities are locally caught fish and seafood. We strongly recommend the fresh fish of the day, excellent poached or grilled, and the fresh shellfish. However the menu is far from limited and includes a variety of meat dishes and local favourites, such the tender Aberdeen or Angus beef in tasty gravy, served with mashed potatoes and vegetables. For dessert don’t miss their sherry trifle or warm chocolate brownie

topped with ice-cream.

Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 2161, www.talfamiljarestaurant. com). Open noon-midnight TueSun. Main courses €12-€18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tal-Petut The private dining concept is not widespread in Malta, but Tal-Petut has got it just right, offering exquisite local cuisine made with carefully sourced ingredients. Recipes and menus are thought-up inhouse, but patrons may discuss a As an alternative to a resort holiday, customised also offers the Three Cities offer historic, boutique menu with a selection accommodation with plenty of charm. the chef, of ciabattas Indulgence Divine (www.indulgencedivine. and wraps Donald, com) is renowned for its deluxe for a truly for lunch. self-catering accommodation and personal Vault 5, Old eco-design, while Palazzo Vittoriosa experience.

Treasury (www.facebook.com/ Wines can Building, palazzovitoriosa) combines be matched Vittoriosa old-world elegance with with the menu Waterfront, five-star service. or chosen from the Vittoriosa extensive collection (2180 9909, www. available. Donald caters twoandahalflemon.com). best for groups of between six and Open June-Sept 11.30am-11pm 18, although the restaurant can daily; Oct-May 11.30am-3pm, 6.30host larger gatherings with prices 10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses ranging from €25 to €29 for a five€18-€20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, course meal. Passers-by can be MC, V. catered for, but always call ahead.

20 Pacifiku Scicluna Street, Vittoriosa (7942 1169, www. talpetut.com). Open 7-11pm TueSat; also noon-3pm Sun Oct-June.

Dinky wine bars are the order Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. of the day in the Three Cities, offering a pleasing selection of Tartarun Maltese and international wines Just off the Marsaxlokk seafront, in very local surroundings. on a corner near the main square, this restaurant has captured hearts Del Borgo Wine Bar and taste buds. Fish is the order of Del Borgo is one of the most the day here – so you could start popular wine bars on the island with the carpaccio of prawns, tuna, and has a strong sense of Maltese anchovies and calamari (depending character. It offers a wide selection on what’s in), followed by the of foreign and local wines, with catch of the day. That said, if you over 300 bottles categorised don’t like fish, you’ll also be well according to taste, grape variety, looked after, with scrumptious country of origin and price, options such as the tasty rib-eye. accompanied by a simple but To finish off, save room for the interesting food menu, with delicious Valrhona white chocolate an emphasis on local produce. parfait with chocolate crumble and Booking is advisable as this place raspberry sorbet. is highly popular. And if you’re Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2165 after a tasty souvenir, visit the 8089, www.tartarun.com) Open enoteca, stocked with good-quality noon-3.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm wines, olive oils and other delights.

Tue-Sat; noon-3.30pm Sun. Main St Dominic Street, Vittoriosa (2180 courses €22. Credit AmEx, DC, 3710, www.delborgomalta.com).

JCB, MC, V. Open 5pm-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Two and a Half Lemon This popular restaurant succeeds Il-Forn Art Gallery and Wine Bar in blending 15th-century features Situated in the quaint Collacchio with contemporary design, making area, this wine bar has retained use of tasteful details, such as its popularity for over a decade. traditional Maltese tiles and tailorOriginally part of a hospital and made lampshades. Although the later used as a bakery – hence the menu is vast and offers a varied name il-forn, meaning oven – it selection of items, it is the Angus blends original features, such as beef rib-eye and seafood pasta that the baker’s oven and old Maltese keep us coming back. Both are tiles, with the modern artworks must-haves. This hip restaurant that hang on its walls. Il-Forn offers

66 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

immersed in history

Where to drink

Del Borgo Wine Bar

an extensive wine list, with over 80 varieties of local and foreign wines, and delicious platters of cured meats and cheeses, dip platters accompanied by copious amounts of toasted ftira (unleavened bread) and toasted open ftira.

27 North Street, Vittoriosa (2182 0379). Open 7.30pm-1am Wed-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Arts and entertainment This is not a destination for entertainment-seekers but the area is very well served with the largest sports club and the only golf course on the island.

Sports and leisure Marsa Sports Club First established in August 1901, this is one of the largest sporting establishments on the island.

Home to Malta’s one and only golf course, this privately-owned club also features 17 tennis courts, two indoor tennis courts, five squash courts, an open-air swimming pool, a cricket pitch and a gym studio.

Cricket tournaments are organised regularly. Today the club boasts nearly 2,500 members, as well as numerous visitors and facilities for no less than eight sports disciplines.

Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2123 3851, www.marsasportsclub.com).

Open 8.30am-10.30pm daily.

Royal Malta Golf Club Celebrating 125 years of golf in Malta, this well-balanced 18-hole course offers both seasoned and new golfers an exciting and challenging experience. Historical features on the course include a chapel built in 1492 that sits alongside the 10th green, and the area around Hole 6, which today incorporates the ruins of the servants’ quarters from the era when the British servicemen played here.

Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2122 7019, www.royalmaltagolfclub. com). Open 7.30am-5.30pm daily.

A - Birgu Waterfront, Birgu BRG 1721 - Malta T - 00356 2180 8008, M - 00356 7980 8008, E - info@donberto.com

www.donberto.com

Do you require assistance while in

MALTA and GOZO? We’re happy To help!

Tourist Information Offices in Malta & Gozo GOZO No17, Independence Sqr – Victoria Tel: (+356) 22915452/3 MELLIEĦA Misraħ Iż-Żjara tal-Papa Ġwanni Pawlu II - 26 ta' Mejju 1990 Tel: (+356) 21524666

MDINA Torre dello Standardo Pjazza San Publiju Tel: (+356) 21454480

FOR ASSISTANCE WHILE ON HOLIDAY IN MALTA CALL

FREEPHONE: 8007 2230

The service is available from Monday to Saturday: 0900hrs - 1715hrs Sundays and Public Holiday: 0900 - 1300hrs

Customer Care:

Email: info@visitmalta.com – Tel: ( +356) 22915444 - 5

VALLETTA Malta Tourism Authority Auberge d’Italie, Triq il-Merkanti Tel: (+356) 22915440 – 2

VALLETTA (CRUISE PORT) Pinto Wharf Valletta Waterfront Tel: (+356) 21220633 VITTORIOSA Inquisitor’s Palace, Main Gate Str., Vittoriosa BRG 1023 Tel: (+356) 21800145

MALTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Arrivals Lounge, Luqa Tel: (+356) 23696073/4 Fax: (+356) 21822072

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

Sliema & Around Overview and sightseeing 70 Where to eat 70 Where to drink 74 Shopping 77 Where to stay 81

delicious flavours such as Jaffa and pistachio.

30 Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida (2133 1738, www.busybee.com.mt). Open 9am-10pm Mon-Sat; 8am-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Sliema & Around

Café Giorgio People-watchers delight at this pavement-side café – the perfect place to observe the world go by. With plenty of atmosphere whatever the hour, this coffee shop is the ideal place to stop for some refreshments, sip a drink and enjoy a bite to eat in true Sliema style.

17 Tigné Seafront (2134 2456).

Open 7am-midnight daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

A shopping and café-life hotspot This seafront town is a hive of activity with plenty of shops, cafés, bars, restaurants and hotels, as well as the island’s most frequented promenade

S

liema may get its name from the Maltese word for ‘peace’ (sliem) but that doesn’t quite suit it these days!

Nevertheless, it remains one of the most popular parts of the island and is a great place to stay if you enjoy being in the thick of things.

Of course, it’s a long time since its early days as a quaint seaside village, peppered with grand houses that were home to the country’s British rulers and wealthy Maltese. By the mid-20th century, the thriving property industry saw an increase in the number of high-rise apartments, which have replaced most of these beautiful houses, and in the 1960s the town began to build its reputation as a popular tourist destination.

Today, Sliema, which extends from Manoel Island to the beginning of Balluta Bay in St Julian’s, is a bustling town replete with cafés, bars, shops, hotels and apartments, as well as a handful of grand old houses which have survived the ravages of modernity and have been restored to their former grandeur. A wander through its backstreets reveals beautiful, traditional Maltese balconies and painted wooden doors, and provides a glimpse into the locals’ way of life.

Early mornings see many joggers and walkers dot The Front (the seafront along Tower

Road), as it is known, which later fills up with business people and shoppers going about their business. Things do not slow down later on during the day, as people flock to and from this commercial centre.

Sliema gets particularly busy on summer evenings, when people head here for an evening walk or a bite to eat at the many kiosks, al fresco cafés and restaurants along the coast.

The main shopping area is concentrated around Bisazza Street and Tower Road which are lined with popular high-street and designer shops.

A short walk away from the commercial hub is The Point, one of the largest shopping malls on the island. It is still relatively new, but has quickly gained a reputation as one of the best destinations for shopping and dining. Pop here for brilliant views of Valletta and its bastions.

As you head further along Tower Road towards St Julian’s, the area becomes more residential, with many high-rise apartments (with a hefty price tag) having views of the beautiful rocky beaches below and the open sea opposite.

The splendid sea views and fresh sea air can be enjoyed from most of Sliema. These are major crowd pullers, as you can head to the beach for a swim in the summer months or wander along the rocks in cooler weather.

70 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Love it or hate it, there is certainly something about Sliema. Despite being one of the most densely populated spots on the island, Maltese and foreigners alike vie for property in this busy town and come rain or shine descend on it for its various entertainment options.

Where to eat You’ll never be stuck for dining options in Sliema, with a fantastic choice of everything from cheap-and-cheerful cafés to fine-dining spots.

Cafés Busy Bee A household name across the country, Busy Bee is a beloved local brand – and has been since the 1930s. Locals love its delectable ricotta-filled kannoli and almondfilled pastries (which they often take away to parties), while the short wait at the coffee shop is well worth it. All food is made in-house and according to timehonoured methods. Unfortunately kannoli are not available during the summer months, but this leaves a host of other delights to try, such as the renowned cassatella Siciliana. Busy Bee has also recently put its years of practice in the ice-cream sector to good use and opened a gelateria, just a few doors away, offering an array of

Cara’s End your stroll (or jog) along the promenade at this renowned cafeteria, situated mid-way between Sliema and St Julian’s. Also popular for the selection of delicious cakes and pies, and steaming mugs of thick hot chocolate, Cara’s offers a great escape during the colder winter months, and is a perfect spot for a refreshing drink during the summer, sheltered from the sun by large umbrellas.

248 Tower Road (2134 3432).

Open 9am-11pm Mon-Fri; 9ammidnight Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cuba – Bistro, Pizzeria, Café With the second Café Cuba having recently opened its doors in Spinola, St Julian’s, this minifranchise has certainly captured attention. The laid-back Cuban way of life is emulated in the atmosphere, while the food is a mix of light snacks from 9am, and a beefed-up menu of tasty salads, pastas and grills from noon, while their wood-burning Neapolitan oven bakes delicious pizza in the evenings. This is also a charming spot for excellent coffee, wines, beers and cocktails.

Tigné Seafront (2010 1313, www. cafecuba.com.mt). Open 8.30am11pm daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. ID Café ID, in the heart of busy Sliema’s shopping streets, is popular for breakfast (we love their croissants), lunch and dinner, as well as evening cocktails. The menu is a mix of pies, sandwiches, salads, focaccias and cakes. After dark the café morphs into a bar and is popular for a relaxed evening spent with friends, over a bottle of wine.

4 The Strand (2734 4791). Open 8am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Fusion Taste This award-winning restaurant is one of a collection within the

Cavalieri

E

CO BOS

UD -D ID

ORRI TRIQ IT-T

ET LL HA S GE IQ

TIG

HU

TR

TA ER ON CK IL-P GUT LO IQ TRIQ ’DRA TR TA

IQ

ITTO R

XA TT A’Q UIS

RI

ZA

TR IQ

IX

NE

TR

L AW NP SA

BIS

AZ

MERCIERA

PARA LELLA

TRIQ SIR ARTU RO

MARIJA

XE

RR

I

NE

U

TIG

NS

IQ

CE

XA TT T

TR

TR

IX -

IQ

SA NT ’A NT NI N

TRIQ

Marina Palace

TR IQ

ON TRIQ

TRIQ TRIQ G. GO RG OL IVER

GW ANN SA N TRIQ

SANTA

TRIQ

IG NE

The Point Shopping Mall Lido

Tigne Fort

N

ANCH

AT T IX

-X

Lido Fortina

IQ TR

UM KARL

Pebbles Lido

AR GH TRIQ

Stella Maris

Id-Dahla Ta’Tas-Sliema

ERO

ILLA N

CAM

APP

A

PO NS OM BY

TRIQ STU ART

TRIQ

IL-K

GWANN BAT ISTA

U

SA T NT RIQ ’A NG L

TRIQ

TRIQ SAN

TI K

TRIQ IL L-A -KUL NT LEG IK TRIQ IS-S UR FON S

IK NT L. A GA M E

TR IQ ENS D’ARG

Sliema Point Tower Preluna Towers

celebrated chef Kris, it offers an authentic dining experience inspired by traditional local cuisine and is set within a former bakery.

Portions are generous so do bear that in mind when ordering. We love the snails – served in a bowl with a spicy tomato sauce – to start, followed by the fresh fish of the day or the typical Maltese dishes such as bragjoli (beef olives) or rabbit cooked in wine. For dessert (all made in-house), there’s nothing like Kris’ helwa tat-tork (nougat) and imqaret (date cakes), served with Maltese coffee – but you’ll need to ask for them as they’re not on the menu.

80 Fawwara Lane (2133 7367).

Open 12.30-4pm, 7-11pm daily.

Main courses €10-€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mediterranean Ali Baba The saying goes that the best things come when you least expect them. This is one of them – standing in one of the area’s least desirable streets is a fantastic (Lebanese) dining option. It was started by Abdul Rahman Harb in September 1987. Today it is run by his son, Hany Harb, who takes pride in serving typical Lebanese and other North African dishes.

Everything, including different types of Lebanese bread and sweets, is made in-house from evidently high quality ingredients.

A mixture of herbs and spices from around the world makes for wonderfully flavoursome dishes which range from cold and warm mezes and vegetarian dishes to salads, grills, stews and of course, desserts. The menu, listed on a blackboard as you enter, and wine list are changed around three

to four times a year and Hani is always ready to give a helping hand to ensure a good choice.

9 Ponsomby Street, Gzira (9945 0211, www.hanyharb.com). Open noon-3pm, 7-10pm Tue-Sun. Closed Aug. Main courses €25-€35. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Cardini This new addition on the seafront is well worth a visit for its delicious food and stylish decor. There’s a full range on offer, including snacks, platters to share, pasta, pizza, meat and fresh fish.

We enjoyed the Caesar salad (signature dish of Cesare Cardini, the restaurant’s namesake), as well as the calzone tartufato, a closed pizza stuffed with mozzarella, walnuts, crema di tartufo, asparagus, parma ham, parmesan and rocket. As a guilty pleasure, try the gourmet burgers, including the spicy beef burger flavoured with chilli and a hint of curry, tomato relish and topped with Mexican melted cheese and streaky bacon – fantastic!

132A Tower Road (2133 2324, www.cardini.com.mt). Open noon3pm Tue-Sun; 6.30-11pm Sun-Fri; 6.30-11.30pm Sat. Main courses €8.50-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Chez Philippe This wonderful restaurant is just outside Sliema on the Gzira promenade – but it is well-worth the short walk. Although spoilt for choice with a great selection on their menu and perennially tempting options on their specials board, we recommend the baked brie with honey, thyme and hazelnuts, followed by the salmon fillet with wasabi butter or the boneless quail with herbes de

Provence and beurre noisette.

Pasta lovers, meanwhile, will be bowled over by the ravioli tartufo in a white wine sauce or the penne with roasted artichokes, rucola and parmesan. If it’s healthy food you’re after, the salads are among the best on the island. Free Wi-Fi is also available should you want to log on.

181 The Strand, Gzira (2133 0755, www.chezphilippe.com.mt). Open noon-3pm Mon-Sat; 7-10.30pm Fri, Sat; also noon-3pm Sun NovJune. Main courses €16-€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Chophouse Want great meat and gorgeous views? Head straight here – as that’s exactly what this place is all about. If you visit in summer nothing beats a meal on the extensive terrace overlooking the Valletta bastions – a truly remarkable sight particularly from this angle. Chophouse caters mainly for meat-lovers, but does not disappoint those who are not. It offers an extensive wine list that should delight any wine connoisseur. Perfect for a relaxed evening of dining al fresco.

Tigné Point (2060 3355, www. chophouse.com.mt). Open June-Sept 7-11pm daily; Oct-May 7-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-3pm Sun. Main courses €25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Fratelli La Bufala This Neapolitan franchise serves lunch and dinner in the wonderful setting of the large square at The Point. They are most famous for their pizzas, pastas and salads with fresh mozzarella, so you would do well to try one of those. Our favourite pizza would have to be the cornetto di bufala – a large

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 73

Sliema & Around

TRIQ

ER

CE PA

TRIQ IR-R EBH A

TRIQ DON M. RUA

IL-KB TRIQ

AN GIL J

IR-RAM PA TA’SAN PA TA’ SA NG ILJA N

AM

-R IR TRIQ IS-S ORIJ ET LL UT

-KARMNU TRIQ TAL

IL N

A AN I-S

ARIN

M

IQ

IQ TR

M TRIQ

TR

IRA IL-KB TRIQ

A

VON UR SA

T. IL-K

GU ZE HO WA RD

L RA ATID IL-K IQ TR U LIJ UB A NTA RIT NP SA TRIQ SA IQ TA TR LUNZJA TRIQ ILLUNZJATA

RMNU

Fortizza

L. G RA HA M

Capua Court Clinic

TRIQ IRJA LI

TRIQ IL-

BA

TR IQ

Mediterranean Sea

IT-TO RRI

TR IQ

HOW ARD

MARIS TRIQ STELLA

TRIQ D’ARG ENS

GUZE

Imperial

TRIQ TAL-KA

T R IQ

AMERY

JU.

Victoria

LFU

R

TRIQ

REID

DSO

CENZ AN VI V PIJU SAN TRIQ U INIK DUM SAN TRIQ

TRIQ IL-KUBRIT

TRIQ

WIN

TRIQ S

TR IQ

TTA

GLI DIN

ERES

ERTU ’ALB SANTT RIQ BO UV ER IE

SIO

IL-FLO

TRIQ

DO

TRIQ

TRIQ SANT’AG ATA

PARI

IL- FR

A LIT

I

ERTU

TRIQ

E

- RO

VICTORIA

Sacred Heart Church

TRIQ

’ALB

PJAZZA MEME SCICLUNA

T

IR

300 yds © Copyright Time Out Group 2012

TRIQ MANO EL DIMEC H

NCIN

SANT

MORON

TRIQ

0

TRIQ

O

ENA TRIQ SANT’EL

D UAR ISO

IQ LEO NE SAN CAR LU S TRIQ AN ALF ON S

NI BE

TRIQ

TRIQ

.G

PIR . DE

BER HU HE NC BLA TRIQ

OLO NIC SIR TRIQ

ANI

PO NS OM BY

NS

RODOLFU

TRIQ IR-

VI TRIQ

TR IQ

TR

N LZO FA

E

NT

NA

IQ TR

SALL

SA

E ’EL

MO

GIAN

DE LA

IQ

ER UB EH

R

300 m

0

IT- T ORR I

St Patrick’s

TRIQ

TRIQ

TRIQ

TR

NCH

IQ TR

TRIQ H. O SIR AKE S

TRIQ

Convent

SK NGI

IE

TR

LA IQ B

Holy Trinity

LE R MIL

HOW ARD

TRIQ

FRA

GG

AT

GUZE

A ARIT ARG TA M SAN TRIQ LK RFO NO

SAN

NA VIT A

RE

TRIQ

IQ

BO

SQAQ. MRAB

NNA TRIQ TO

D BERESFOR

IQ

T.

T

SIS

TRIQ

IQ TR

G

RO EPI G. D NS. MO

H EC IM LD OE AN M

IN

T

TR

U AZJ IGN SAN TRIQ

IQ TR

RS

L-A

GA I FAR UL NZ R IQ SA NT ’ EN RIK U

AT AB MR L-I

Ta’ Kris It’s easy to walk past the alley that conceals this gem, but do keep your eyes peeled. Run by

G

RIQ

NU

A

Our Lady of Mount Carmel N G LLE KU IL- TIK IQ N TR L-A

LL E

BIR

TRIQ

ME

BI

RA

PJAZZA SIR ADRIAN DINGLI

TRIQ

IL- K

Maltese

IL-K

DSO

IAN DR IR A QS TRI

T RI Q

TRIQ

U L-K QI T T RI M RIQ .V P EL .

LA

TR

Sa Re Ga Ma Enjoy the backdrop of the Fortina Spa Resort as you dine at this eatery, enjoying authentic cuisine from a variety of Indian regions.

The broad menu offers all the popular Indian dishes, such as korma and tikka makhni, and an extensive variety of vegetarian dishes. We recommend you start with the mixed tandoori sizzler, followed by the lamb pashanda.

Alternatively tuck into one of the banquet menus that enable you to sample many different specialities.

At the newly opened Indian Area, with low tables and cushion seating, you can savour 15 dishes and free flowing water, for just €35 per person.

Level 1 Tropical Gardens, Fortina Spa Resort, Tigné Seafront (9903 2951). Open 12.30-2.30pm, 6.4510.45pm daily. Main courses €6€15. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

IRA

IR

A

RI SQAQ FAB

WIN

TRIQ

B IL-K AJJ

TRIQ TRIQ

Metropole

FALZ

IQ IL-B

The Civil Service Sports Club

Il-Bajja Ta San Giljan

RIQ IRROD OLF U

TR

RG OLIVER BO RG GO A

TRIQ

Indian Garam Masalaa Locals love the milder dishes at this family-run favourite, while most tourists prefer to turn up the heat with a madras or vindaloo.

Either way, Garam Masalaa is renowned for its genuine, aromatic and well-balanced curries. Sunil, who runs the restaurant together with his wife Katherine, is the creator of the wonderfully fragrant dishes which make their way to your table. We love the tikka masala and the ginger lamb, accompanied with rice and naan bread, while for dessert we enjoyed the kulfi ice-cream and the sweet stuffed chapatti (and there’s talk of the duo adding a gulab jamoon to the menu too).

11 Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida (2134 0489). Open 7-11pm Tue-Sun; Oct-May also 12.30-4pm Sun. Main courses €9. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Sliema

St. Julian’s Tower

IQ TR

Fortina’s tropical garden. It offers Japanese and Vietnamese fusion cuisine, with a hint of Mediterranean flair. For lunch, try the prawn and watermelon salad for starters, followed by the fresh baked salmon, and for dinner dig into the foie gras, cumin and ginger lamb fillet and, to finish, the hot chocolate pudding or cheese platter. You can also opt for the specials, which change on a daily basis.

Fortina Spa Resort, Tigné Seafront (2346 6666, www.fortinasparesort. com). Open 12.30-2.30pm TueSun; 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €14-€40. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Spinola Point

L’Aroma Most good rabbit-serving venues are located north of the island, but this place flies the flag in Sliema.

Specialising in both Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine, this well-loved eatery at the start of the promenade offers quality food at very good value, off an ample menu. Choose from local specialities such as rabbit stew or tasty pan-fried lampuki (local fish) or from Mediterranean dishes including paella (for two), a generous seafood platter, goodquality meats and several pasta and pizza options. There are also breakfast and snack menus (both served until 3pm) if you’re not that hungry.

17 Ghar il-Lembi Street (2131 7633, www.laromarestaurantmalta. com). Open 10am-11pm daily.

Main courses €6-€21. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. L’Artist This popular restaurant has been wowing diners for around four years and patrons love the family feel of the place, as well as the cosy atmosphere in winter.

The fare is mainly Maltese and Mediterranean, with highlights including the mussels simmered in white wine and garlic for starters, the smoked duck in cranberry juice for mains and the tiramisu or chocolate mousse to finish off.

6 Tigné Road (7720 0870, www. lartist.com.mt). Open 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €14-€24.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. La Cuccagna We would argue that this place serves some of the best pizzas in the area – or perhaps the island.

Deliciously thin and crispy with a variety of over 20 different toppings, as well as the possibility of adding extra toppings, the pizzas here are definitely worth checking out. But this family-run restaurant is not just about pizza; the menu also features a number of pasta dishes, salads, grills and, of late, fresh fish. We recommend the penne farouk, with prawns, spinach, mushrooms, curry and pernod, the home-made ravioli or the Thai beef salad. Gluten-free options are also available. Needless to say this restaurant is usually very busy, so booking is highly recommended.

Oriental

Café life ... along the promenade

Photo: Lionel Galea

Sliema & Around

calzone-like concoction with fresh mozzarella, rucola and parma ham. For something more filling, the buffalo meat or rib-eye doesn’t disappoint, while the the occhio di bufala – chocolate fondant served with vanilla ice-cream – is heavenly for dessert.

7 Pjazza Tigné, Tigné Point (2138 7888). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-3.30pm, 7.30-11pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €10-€22.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

B

esides being a major commercial and residential area, and housing several hotels and restaurants, Sliema is a centre for café-life and coffee culture. Dotted along The Strand in this busy town are numerous cafés at which one can enjoy a coffee, snack and tête-à-tête with a view.

From fine Italian coffee at the recently opened ID (pictured, see p70), to the ultimate comfort snack at veteran Tony’s Bar, the cafés along the promenade are the ideal place for a spot of people-watching under the sun. Others worth a visit are Caffé Giorgio (see p70), Caffé Oasis, Café Cuba (see p70) and Misto, and for a bird’s eye view of goings-on, relax on the terrace at M&S Kitchen, located on the fourth floor of the Marks & Spencer store on The Strand.

47 Amery Street (2134 6703).

Open 7-11.30pm Tue-Sun; also noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, Sun OctJune. Main courses €9. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mint It’s hard not to be won over by this gourmet café and its delicious selection of food and drink.

There’s no menu here, but the display cabinets show off what’s fresh and scrumptious that day – usually vegetable lasagne, hearty salads, savoury muffins and large sandwiches. The desserts are also wonderful (making this a great spot for afternoon tea too), as are their fresh juices and smoothies.

30/39 Tower Road (2133 7177, www.mintmalta.com). Open 8am7pm Tue-Fri; 9am-7pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €2.50-€8. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Xbiex Waterpolo Club We’re incredibly drawn to both the setting and the food at this al fresco restaurant on the outskirts of Sliema, which affords fantastic views of Valletta across the waters (among the best views to be enjoyed on the islands). There’s lots to savour on the menu, including their risotto ai frutti di mare to start and the tender rib-eye or fresh fish for main; dessert can be chosen from the selection on display. The kitchen here closes at 10.30pm but you can hang around

74 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

to keep enjoying a drink and the view longer into the night.

Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2733 0144). Open June-Sept noon4pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat; noon11pm Sun; Oct-May noon-4pm daily; 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Vecchia Napoli Pizza is the order of the day here (in fact, 30,000 have been served since it opened its doors five years ago), and we can’t get enough of it. Wonderfully crispy and cooked in a traditional wood-burning oven, there’s something special about the pizza here. From the simple margherita to their signature calzone with mozzarella fior di latte, parmiggiano reggiano, emmenthal swiss, fontina cheese, italico, crema funghi e tartufi, trevisana, rucola, prosciutto crudo and grana padano, Vecchia Napoli offers a vast array of fantastic pizzas. Set along the busy Sliema promenade, with a large terrace, this popular restaurant also offers a host of pasta dishes, salads and grills. To accompany your food there’s an interesting selection of wines from Malta, Italy and the New World.

255 Tower Road (2134 3434, www.vecchianapoli.com.mt). Open 6-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-11pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €9-€16. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

MedAsia The atmosphere at MedAsia is perfect for relaxation over dinner and a few drinks. Set as it is along The Strand, its outdoor terrace affords views of the sea across the road, though the hip interior is equally attractive.

The food – a fusion of Asian and Mediterranean cuisines – comes highly recommended. The place truly comes alive in the evenings, as it takes on a more club-like atmosphere and attracts a highheeled crowd. Although food is served between noon and midnight, you can linger over drinks until the early hours. The restaurant’s sister spot – MedAsia Playa, close to The Point, promises the ideal option for a summer’s evening – serving food and drinks in a lido setting.

90 The Strand (2133 3221, www. medasia.com.mt). Open noonmidnight daily. Main courses €20.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. TemptAsian The atmosphere at this chic eatery is perfectly complemented by the menu, which blends flavours from China, Japan, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, India, Korea, Vietnam and Singapore. Indian Wednesdays are great, with a focus on Indian cuisine, and we also love the Thai spicy lobster curry and tepanyaki mixed barbecue. If you’re up for smaller amounts of a wider variety, the set menus, priced at €35 or €50 per person (these must be ordered for two) make a great choice.

Although you can sit indoors, don’t miss a chance to sit on its outdoor terrace on the 9th floor of The Palace Hotel, with gorgeous view across the Grand Harbour.

The Palace, High Street (2133 3444, www.thepalacemalta.com).

Open 7-11pm daily. Main courses €10-€24.50. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink Just like for foodies, Sliema’s got it all for those who fancy a drink.

The town is home to everything from cocktail bars to hole-in-thewall pubs for a quick drink with friends.

Black Gold There’s never a dull moment at this lively pub-cum-club that’s always bursting with a local and foreign crowd. Around for over two decades, this pub, located just across from the Sliema-Gzira promenade has a lively atmosphere all day long. This is the ideal spot for a relaxed and reasonably priced drink, and a bite to eat at any time of day. Its menu also features pasta, pizza, grills and salads. The volume is turned up in the evenings to get

the crowd going and there’s live entertainment provided by bands, DJs and dancers on a regular basis.

The Strand (2133 4808). Open 8am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. La Rive See, be seen, relax and enjoy the great food and drink at this laidback bar and restaurant found between the main shopping streets and The Point. If the weather’s warm enough, grab a table on the pavement, that’s across the road from the promenade, alternatively head indoors and snag a sofa.

Take your pick from the vast menu offering pasta dishes, wraps and platters. Or why not try La Rive’s red quinoa and feta cheese salad, juicy smoked burger or farfalle al manzo e spinaci? Daily specials are also featured and the bar is wellstocked to offer hot as well as cold drinks, including smoothies and a vast selection of non-alcoholic and alcoholic cocktails. The kitchen is conveniently open from noon to 11pm on Monday to Friday and until 11.30pm on Saturday.

Live music is played every Friday during the winter months.

33-34 Tigné Seafront (2131 8323, www.larivecafe.com). Open 8.30am1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. One38 Lounge This is the place to kick back with a drink in summer while in winter it transforms into a club playing house music into the early hours.

The crowd is young and the special offers – usually available from 8 to 11pm every day – include their ‘mega trays’ of shots every Wednesday and Friday.

138 Tower Road (7907 1014).

Open 7pm-1am Wed-Mon. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Paradise Exiles For a rough-and-ready laid-back experience try Exiles – easily

the most authentic beach bar on the island and right on the rocky seashore. By day, this snack bar caters for those swimming at the public beach, while at sunset, the smell of barbecued food fills the air and chill-out music and reggae comes on the jukebox. It may be basic, but it offers an unrivalled authentic Mediterranean summer vibe. Ask for directions because it’s easy to miss.

Tower Road. Open May-Oct noon2am daily. No credit cards.

Shopping Sliema is Malta’s shopping centre, so head straight here if you’re looking for fashion, food, cosmetics or footwear. There are malls to explore, as well as dinky souvenir shops and boutiques.

Arcades and shopping complexes The Plaza Shopping Centre This year, the Plaza celebrates its 20th anniversary – a milestone for one of Malta’s first malls. It still boasts many top brands under one roof, including Promod, Scotch & Soda, United Colors of Benetton and The Body Shop. It is also home to a number of food outlets, such as Mc Donald’s (with free Wi-Fi), Cinnabon and a café on the third floor. Some of the shops close between 1 and 4pm.

Bisazza Street (2134 3832, www. plaza-shopping.com). Open JuneSept 9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; OctMay 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Point This trendy mall is also the largest on the island, and a great destination if you want to get all your shopping done in one place. Although still only a few years old, The Point has fast established itself as one of the most

Books Books Plus This delightful bookshop promises a warren of discovery from fiction and non-fiction titles, to beautiful Melitensia and coffee-table books.

Pick up a bestseller to fill your afternoons at the beach, or opt for a light read for your flight home.

New titles arrive weekly.

Bisazza Street (2133 9400). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC V. Fashion BHS This is a failsafe option for everything from summer accessories to winter warmers, and the whole family is catered for. Known for its classic quality clothing, women should expect to find simple and elegant pieces with structured fits and clean lines, as well as wardrobe essentials. BHS also stocks a good selection of quality homeware items.

9 The Strand (2131 0811, www. camillerigroup.com). Open 9am7.30pm Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 195, 196 Merchants Street, Valletta (2124 1633); Smart Shopping Centre, Naxxar Road, Birkirkara (2149 1655).

Bortex Approaching its 50th anniversary, Bortex is still one of the most sought-after places for tailored fashion – particularly for men – on the island. Established in 1964, it manufactures and retails an extensive range of formal tailoring, outerwear, casual clothing, footwear and accessories, all at very reasonable prices. It stocks renowned brands such as McNeal, Rochas, Lanificio Flli. Cerutti dal 1881, Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, as well as its own house brand Gagliardi. Its creations are

exported mainly to the UK, as well as to clients in France, Germany, Italy, Sweden and the Netherlands.

Bortex also offers clothes’ hire and a bespoke made-to-measure service for men.

41 Tower Road, Sliema (2133 8142). Open 9.30am-7.30pm MonSat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Diesel Store The flagship Diesel store on the island, situated on the recently upgraded St Anne Square, stocks the full Diesel collection of apparel ranging from denim, accessories and belts to watches, shoes, sunglasses and underwear. This season the men’s collection has an air of rock ‘n’ roll to it, while the female collection plays with nude tones, sheer fabrics and soft pastel hues.

St Anne Square (2258 4430). Open 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Merchants Street, Valletta (2258 4442); The Warehouse Outlet, Luigi Ellul Street, Attard (2258 4407).

Esprit This fresh, smart-casual European brand is great for fashionable basics and workwear. It’s also bang on trend, so expect to find the latest fabrics, prints and textures on hand, as well as a good selection of shoes, bags, other accessories and body care products.

48 Tower Road (2060 1074, www. esprit.com). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 26 Merchants Street, Valletta (2060 1079); Level -1, The Point, Sliema (2060 1075).

Max & Co Catering for women of all ages, this exclusive, new shop stocks styles from classic and elegant – ideal for an event – to vibrant and cutting-edge.

High Street (2131 6360, www. maxandco.com). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; Aug 9.30am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Max Mara Renowned for its elegant and stylish collections, clothes here have a very distinct cut and design.

This shop is a haven for those who are willing to spend that little bit more, but love to stand out. Many lovely colours are in stock for the coming autumn/winter season.

46-48 Tower Road (2134 1961).

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Miss Selfridge If it’s the latest fashion you’re after head here – from glitzy dancing shoes to party dresses or stylish day-to-day wear. Around for a few years now, Miss Selfridge was one of the first high-street shops to hit

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 77

Sliema & Around

Armani Jeans

popular shopping destinations on the island. It is home to top international brands including Guess, Mexx, Armani Jeans, Mango and Debenhams, as well as local outlets Thirty-Six Fashion for Kids and Sophia, so you’re spoilt for choice here. Plus, recent additions include the MVintage jewellery outlet, Dean Gera Haircare, The Make-Up Store and Costa Coffee. If you want to stretch your feet, there are several cafés on the top and bottom floors, and in the large, outdoor pjazza, while the restaurants, enjoying stunning views of Valletta across the sea, are a two-minute walk across the square. Keep your children happy with some time at the kids’ entertainment area.

Tigné Point (2065 5132, www. thepointmalta.com). Open 9.30am7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Sliema & Around

Malta and is still a valuable source for the latest styles.

Level 1, The Plaza Shopping Centre, Bisazza Street (2134 6493).

Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

the staff is very helpful.

Tower Road (2133 9249).

Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Zachary Street, Valletta (2122 0217).

Morgan Morgan’s style captivates the fashion-conscious and those on the look-out for the latest trends in everything from partywear to swimwear. Various styles are available to suit every mood.

Tower Road (2131 9485, www. cyka.com.mt). Open 9.30am7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Top Shop There’s something for everyone at this popular high-street store, irrespective of style preferences.

Sizes range from 4 to 16 for women, with a special petite section for smaller frames, and XS to XL for men at Top Man. This season the store presents a mix of dark and bold patterns, as well as lighter pastel colours for girls, and to complete the perfect outfit, there’s a range of bags, sunglasses, headwear and shoes, and a selection of lingerie and underwear. Top Shop is on the ground floor and lower level, while Top Man is on the upper floor.

5 Bisazza Street (2133 5540). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am7.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Nara Camicie This is your go-to if you’re looking for a quality shirt or blouse with an excellent fit. There’s a seemingly endless array of styles, colours and fabrics to choose from and you’ll be spoilt for choice with plain, frilled, coloured and self-patterned shirts, and no one shirt is like the other. Made in Italy, all the styles here are designed to be dressed Zara up or down, depending on the Promising good value and a lovely occasion. There’s also a selection range of items, this large store of scarves and ties. should top your list of shopping Bisazza Street (2133 2587, www. destinations. The women’s naracamicie.com.mt). Open section, on the ground 9.30am-7.30pm Monfloor level, offers Sat. Credit AmEx, an ample choice DC, JCB, MC, V. of smart Other locations workwear and Melita Street, There are now over 180 free more casual Valletta public Wi-Fi spots around the daywear, (2122 island – in town and village squares, 7503). gardens and libraries. Popular locations as well as include Independence Gardens and St lingerie, shoes, Next Anne’s Square in Sliema, and St George’s Square in Valletta. To find accessories This British more spots where you are, and bags. chain stocks download the free Wi-Fi locator Trends this a fantastic app in Google Play (see p7). season include range of quality, clashing vibrant affordable and pinks and oranges, practical clothing. floral prints, yellows, coral It’s a one-stop-shop and subtle pastels. The first floor for jeans, jumpers, dresses, houses the men’s and children’s underwear and nightwear, as well collections, and shares the space as shoes and accessories. Women are catered for on the ground floor, with Zara Home, showcasing a vast array of accessories, carpets, while the basement level is for bedding, cushions, giftware, menswear and children’s clothes cutlery and crockery. are on the first floor. The former Next store along Bisazza Street 1 Tower Road (2132 3585, www. today stocks a lovely homeware zara.com). Open 9.30am-7.30pm collection.

Mon-Fri; 9.30am-8pm Sat. Credit Tower Road (2132 2841, www.next. AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. co.uk). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-7.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, Fashion accessories DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 Accessorize/Monsoon 4156); 54 Zachary Street, Valletta The vibrant fuchsias, bright teal (2125 1562); Gallarija, Fgura and turquoise shades, and delicate (2168 0237); Arkadia Commercial beading which adorn many of Centre, Rabat, Gozo. their clothes and accessories are synonymous the world over with Oasis this brand. Whether looking for an Beautiful and feminine pieces are evening dress and the jewellery to the order of the day at Oasis. This jazz it up, some stylish beachwear season prints are all the rage, with or the perfect handbag, you’re different colours to match every sure to find it here. This year’s skin tone and trend. This is a great collection is colourful, fun and destination if you’re looking for a dainty, yet as imaginative as always. dress for an event or night out, and Meanwhile, this season Monsoon

free wi-fi

78 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

provides beautiful detailing on shirts, evocative paisley prints and rich autumnal tones to enrich any wardrobe. The two shops are interconnected. Monsoon also has an outlet for children next door, with a small selection for boys and a larger variety of pretty dresses and shoes for girls.

65 Bisazza Street (2131 7951).

Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Republic Street, Valletta (2125 2136); Main Street, Paola (2189 4920); The Duke Shopping Mall, Republic Street, Rabat, Gozo (2155 2540); Axis, Paceville (2704 0267).

Jewelled by Mark If you’re looking for something that little bit special, why not get something custom-made by Mark?

Here the talented designer crafts beautiful jewellery using mainly silver and bright, natural stones.

This tiny outlet stands out for its unusual mix of pieces and stones that will dress up any outfit; from contemporary items to more classic gold and silver. Mark is also a repairs specialist and can reconstruct any broken parts that are brought in – so you don’t need to wait until you return home to wear your favourite jewels!

3 Manuel Dimech Street (2134 6757). Open 10am-1pm, 4-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Optika It’s hard to beat the vast range of high-quality optical products and prompt and personal service at this eyecare store. It is excellent for prescription spectacles and sunglasses, with a wide choice of brands including Versace, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Ray Ban, Revo, Bulgari, Burberry, Polo, Ralph Lauren, Vogue and others. The store also stocks daily, monthly, permanent and coloured disposable lenses.

17 The Strand (2133 5463, www. optika.com.mt). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 3 Ross Street, St Julian’s (2138 3348); 74 Main Street, Rabat (2145 0573).

202 Jewellery Design and customise your own jewellery at this unique store where you can mix and match pieces to create an original item.

But if you’d rather find it ready, 202 Jewellery also stocks great-looking and stylish jewellery and watches by several brands.

Bisazza Street (2720 2202, www.202jewellery.com). Open 9am7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB. MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

VIP Whether as a present for someone or a treat for yourself, VIP has

Critics’ choice Shopping Malta may be best known for its historical sites, but it also boasts a number of top shopping destinations ideal if you fancy some retail therapy.

1

Sliema The adjoining Tower Road, Bisazza Street and The Strand in Sliema offer a mixture of high-street flagship stores and boutiques retailing the latest fashions from the UK and Europe.

2

The Point (pictured) A mere stone’s throw away from the buzzing shopping streets of Sliema, The Point Shopping Centre is Malta’s largest mall and offers an assemblage of designer stores and high-street brands.

3

St Julian’s Within the Portomaso area, the town’s ‘party mile’ turns into a relaxed shopping quarter in the morning offering shoppers a unique collection of designer stores and novelty shops. St Julian’s also boasts the Mediterranean’s largest jewellery store and two shopping malls: Bay Street and The Axis Complex.

4

Valletta The UNESCO World Heritage site is also a shopper’s haven, with lots of shops speckled across Republic and Merchants Streets, and a daily market selling bits, bobs and souvenirs.

5

Gozo Known as the island of the three hills, Gozo has three alternative locations every shopper should visit: The Duke Shopping Mall (see p112), Arkadia Commercial Centre (see p111) and it-Tokk market in Rabat’s main square.

MC, V. Other locations Arkadia Commercial Centre, Rabat, Gozo (2155 8333).

Mil Ideas From ethnic jewellery to bright beach cover-ups, shopping at Mil Ideas feels a little like exploring some faraway marketplace. There’s a great range of items for the home too such as candles, cushions and mirrors, as well as greetings cards and gifts at reasonable prices.

27 Tower Road (2133 3508). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Republic Street, Valletta (2124 8385).

Sliema & Around

Lingerie and Swimwear

camilleriparismode

a delightfully tempting range of products to choose from, including Swiss watches, small leather goods, branded costume jewellery, exclusive stationery and personal accessories. This elegant shop offers renowned brands in the world of watches and jewellery including Breil, Sector, Fossil, Morellato, Nautica, Just Cavalli, Michael Kors, Tag Heuer and Swatch, as well as leather goods

by Cerruti. It also recently added top Danish jewellery and watch designer Skagen to its range.

Bisazza Street (2134 2466). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Melita Street, Valletta (2124 9006).

Food and drink Casa Natura Head straight here to get your health kick with top brands such as Dr Stuart’s teas, Quorn, Weleda and Himalaya, as well as an array of vitamins and minerals, essential oils, herbal teas, cereals, organic products and items for those who suffer from allergies or health conditions, be it food for vegans or coeliacs. The friendly staff will willingly share its vast knowledge with you.

117 High Street (2131 9929). Open 9am-1.30pm, 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Est Est Est With regularly changing stock to suit the season, Est Est Est offers a selection of the finer things in life – quality wines and spirits, confectionery items and a vast choice of gastronomic delicacies from the most reputable international brands. You’ll find

all sorts here, from marmalades to exquisite chocolates, different flavoured curds, terrines, herbs, tantalising condiments and the renowned Illy Coffee, Lindt and Godiva chocolates. The fully trained staff provides a highly personalised service, whether you are looking for a personal treat or a present for a friend or colleague.

68 Tower Road (2132 0160, www. est-est-est.com). Open 9.15am-1pm, 3.30-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.15am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tower Supermarket Great for every day essentials as well as delicacies that you may not find at smaller supermarkets, Tower has butcher and bakery sections, a deli counter, a wonderful display of fresh fruit and vegetables, and a variety of Oriental delights.

Sliema multi-storey car park, High Street (2134 5586). Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The White Sheep A must-visit for foodies, this little shop just outside Sliema – run by sisters Tania and Sarah – is part food store, part deli and part degustation café. Browse their range of carefully selected foods, which range from organic pasta, rice and sauces to teas, coffees, chocolates, biscuits and cakes, as well as truffle-based products, foie gras, pâtés, and all sorts of condiments. Move on to the deli area, which stocks cured meats, delicately smoked fish, bottarga and farmhouse cheeses. Finally, sit back by the window and enjoy a speciality coffee or tea, a freshly prepared sandwich or delicious salad, while browsing through

80 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

their choice of coffee-table and recipe books.

405 Rue d’Argens, Gzira (2131 5222, www.thewhitesheep.eu). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Gifts and homeware camilleriparismode In Malta the Camilleri family has a reputation for retailing only the best, be it fabrics, bridalwear or home interiors. Their outlets specialise in everything for the fashionable, exclusive homeowner, with a wide variety of fabulous home furnishings; from quality tableware and bed linen to lighting, exclusive fabrics, beautiful wallpapers, paints and home accessories. The bridalwear collection has moved to their flagship store in Rabat – an architectural gem and an interior design aficionado’s dream.

Annunciation Square (2134 4838, www.camilleriparismode. com). Open 9.30am-1pm, 4.30-7pm Mon, Wed, Fri; 9.30am-7pm Tue, Thur; 9.30am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 52/54 St Catherine Street, Rabat.

Junction 66 A great place for gifts, Junction 66, which has been in the business for over 20 years, retails beautiful items – such as glassware, photo frames, silver cutlery sets, clocks and ornaments – which can help turn any home into a truly unique space. The friendly team is always on hand to help and offer advice.

66 Tower Road (2133 4451, www. junction66malta.com). Open 9.30am-1.30pm, 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB,

Boux Avenue From basques to baby dolls, this UK lingerie brand has a beautiful range to choose from.

The selection of bras is ideal for wearing under unusual dress styles, in sizes between 30A and 40H, and complements the pretty nightwear collection too.

Level 3, The Plaza Shopping Centre, Bisazza Street (2131 4132). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Golden Point Whether you hope to stand out on the beach or are looking for an elegant style to cover up in, there’s a great selection of swimwear here. Bandeau style bikinis remain popular this year, as do stripes and floral designs. Their range of hosiery, underwear, tops, leggings and nightwear also makes a good buy.

Bisazza Street (2132 0909). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. J. Piccinino This is one of Malta’s leading outlets for lingerie, hosiery, underwear and swimwear, and has been for over 30 years. Catering for all shapes and sizes, the outlet has recently started stocking Triumph underwear which caters for the young as well as for curvier figures, and also has a range for breast cancer survivors who have had a mastectomy. Whether you’re looking for something daring or adventurous, or simply good support and comfort, you’re sure to find something to suit you.

59 Tower Road (2701 0078, www. jpiccinino.com). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Yamamay This season Yamamay is all about geometric and elegant patterns, with a fresh and young style that permeates across this small but well-stocked shop. With items flown in daily from Milan, there’s

ample choice in bright, youthful and stylish pieces. The staff is very helpful and offers guidance on the best style and shape. Collections continue on the lower floor.

37 Tower Road (2133 1491). Open 9.30am-8pm MonSat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Republic Street, Valletta.

Sportswear

Where to stay Sliema makes a great base, with endless restaurants, cafés and shops on your doorstep. There are places to stay to suit all budgets – some with sea views and truly fantastic facilities.

Expensive Fortina Spa Resort Luxury is the order of the day at the Fortina Spa Resort, which offers Europe’s first-ever therapeutic spa bedrooms, equipped with a therapeutic bath, high pressure massage showers for two people and a Dermalife Machine for body detoxification.

These special rooms all have large balconies overlooking the garden and pool area. However, even the regular rooms have excellent facilities, spacious layouts and breath-taking views (some, of the mighty Valletta bastions). Location is also key here, as the hotel is just a short walk from central Sliema and next door to the popular The Point shopping mall.

Tigné Seafront (2346 0000, www. fortinasparesort.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €99-€300 single; €198€500 double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. The Palace This beautiful hotel is centrally located among the grand townhouses in the quiet part of Sliema. Rooms are tastefully decorated and spacious, with amenities including air-con, LCD flat screen, satellite TV and wired internet connection. It also features six designer suites (with two more

Moderate The Diplomat Hotel Rooms at this stalwart hotel are clean and well-equipped with aircon, hair-dryer, satellite TV and orthopaedic mattresses, as well as coffee-making facilities and Wi-Fi. Brilliantly located on the promenade, you can start your day with a brisk early morning walk along the seafront to take in the sea air, before heading to breakfast.

The hotel also has a concession with a nearby seafront private lido, offering water sports and scuba diving facilities.

173 Tower Road (2349 7000, www. diplomat.com.mt). Rates (incl breakfast) €105-€120 single/double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Preluna Hotel and Spa Run by the Preca family for 40 years, this popular hotel is close to the buzzing Sliema shopping area and just across the road from a beach club which offers diving opportunities, water sports and a lovely bar to lounge by. Rooms, some of which enjoy stunning sea views, are bright and airy, and bathrooms have been recently refurbished. You can even relax at

the lovely spa (which offers fitness classes to guests), equipped with swimming pool, jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, massage and beauty therapy studios. Restaurants include the Skyroom, with its beautiful view, and Sakura, which serves Japanese cuisine.

Tower Road (2133 4001, www. preluna-hotel.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €109.50 single; €146 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Victoria Hotel With free Wi-Fi in the lobby and a new restaurant, this hotel makes for a great, well-priced place to stay. It’s just a short walk from the centre of Sliema, but in a quietenough spot that you can get away from it all. A good number of the rooms, which have air-con, TV, phone, en suite bathroom and small balcony, have recently had the soft furnishings changed and feel fresh and crisp. The hotel also offers special Spa and Wellness packages for those looking for a relaxing and rejuvenating experience. Meanwhile, there’s an all-new fruit and salad bar on the terrace for the summer, with themed barbecue nights on Fridays too.

George Borg Olivier Street (2133 4711, www.victoriahotel.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €100 single; €125 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Waterfront Hotel Renowned for its personalised service, this hotel embodies Maltese hospitality at its very best. Overlooking the open seas and the unmistakable silhouette of the capital city Valletta, The Waterfront Hotel is a good choice for discerning travellers. Guests can unwind in the hotel’s bright and comfortable guest rooms or

chill in the lobby bar, where you can keep in touch with friends and family with internet access.

The 116 rooms, most of which have beautiful sea views, are maintained to a very high standard and have spacious balconies and the amenities to make every stay a memorable one.

The Strand, Gzira (2090 6899, www.waterfronthotelmalta.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €103.50 single; €147 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cheap Corner Hostel Malta This hostel may be a short walk away from the centre but it is still an ideal choice for travellers of all ages on a budget. Set in a beautifully restored townhouse, complete with brightly coloured patterned tiles and several authentic features, it offers 12 bedrooms, all with private bathroom facilities, most of which are en suite. The fully-equipped kitchen and relaxed lounge area make for a great spot for guests to socialise and surf the net.

6 St Margaret Street (2780 2780, www.cornerhostelmalta.com). Rates €19 single. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Granny’s Inn Hostel The helpful owners make any stay here comfortable and welcoming.

Offering dorms, double or twin rooms and even single rooms, this hostel is loved by guests for its helpful staff and excellent value rates. It is a great option for those after clean, comfortable and central accommodation. Free Wi-Fi is available.

53 Blanche Huber Street (9921 1751, www.grannysinn.com). Rates €16-€25 single. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

The Palace

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 81

Sliema & Around

Urban Jungle If you feel like getting sporty, this store provides everything from fashionable sportswear to shoes and equipment. Stocking wellknown brands including Nike and Asics clothing for men, women and children for the different disciplines, and footwear by Converse, Crocs and Havaianas, this is your one-stop shop for everything sportswear. And to help you contend with the Maltese sun, there’s a range of Oakley sunglasses.

Bisazza Street (2131 2096). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

on the way), all having different and innovative themes, such as the view suite, the fragrance suite and the music suite. Besides the leisure facilities offered by the hotel, guests are also invited to use the tennis and squash courts at the Union Club, just a short walk away.

In-house restaurants include the Book Box coffee shop, TemptAsian (see p74) and Tabloid (with its regular themed nights). Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel.

High Street (2133 3444, www. thepalacemalta.com). Rates €130€170 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

HIDDEN GEMS AND HISTORICAL BEAUTY Built in 1745, Villa Bologna’s Baroque splendour has been lovingly brought back to life. From classic facades and towering fountains to sunken ponds and garden statues this Grade 1 listed National Monument is yours to discover.

VILLA BOLOGNA WORKING ESTATE & GARDENS

30, St Anthony Street, Attard, Malta ATD 1282. Tel: 2141 7973 Open: Monday - Friday 8.30am - 5pm. Saturday 8.30am - 1pm

www.villabologna.com

Operational Programme I – Cohesion Policy 2007-2013 Investing in Competitiveness for a Better Quality of Life Project part-financed by the European Union European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Co-financing rate: 42.5% EU Funds, 7.5% National Funds, 50% Private Funds Investing in your future

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Mario Galea

Mdina, Rabat & Around Overview and sightseeing 84 Where to eat 86 Where to drink 90 Nightlife 90 Where to stay 90

Photo: viewingmalta.com

Mdina, Rabat & Around

Mdina

The silent city There’s something so special about this walled, medieval city – by day a fantastic space to explore, with museums and sights for all ages; by night a romantic haven, with chic restaurants and eclectic wine bars

M

dina, which stands majestically on a hilltop, has captured hearts for centuries.

As the island’s former capital under the Romans – then known as Melita – it boasts a plethora of historical hotspots, as well as an extraordinary mix of wellpreserved, baroque and medieval architecture.

Start your tour just outside the city walls, at the Domus Romana, as it is now known, which offers insight into the Roman era through perfectly preserved ruins and artefacts.

It is, in fact, during this era of its history that Mdina reached its apex of importance, when Malta became a Municipium and the Roman Governor built his palace within its walls.

The subsequent (short-lived) Byzantine rule came to an abrupt end with the arrival of the Arabs, who conquered the islands in approximately 870AD, giving the city its present name, Mdina. The Arabs have left little evidence of their stay, except for the thicker, more protective walls that they built around the city, separating it from Rabat, and the recently unearthed Arab graveyard.

Fast-forward a few centuries and in 1530, the islands were granted to the Knights of the

Order of St John by Charles V, following the loss of Rhodes to the Turks in 1522. At the time, Malta was becoming of supreme strategic importance for the control of the Mediterranean, due to the alarming growth of Muslim power.

In 1693 a massive earthquake hit Malta, and although no casualties were registered, damage to the foundations of Mdina’s fortifications was extensive and many of the city’s beautiful buildings, including the Cathedral, were damaged or destroyed.

The new Cathedral, designed by acclaimed Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà in a rich baroque style, was completed in 1702 and set the tone for the style that would come to dominate the city’s architectural character.

Between 1723 and 1728, under Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, the fortifications were remodelled and repaired, while alterations were made to the street plan and new grand buildings and palaces, such as the Magisterial Palace and the Banca Giuratale (or Municipal Palace), were built.

Before you enter the gates of Mdina, take a walk through the recently inaugurated gardens in the ditch below the bastions.

An oasis during the day and a

84 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

beautifully lit space at night, it is the perfect prequel to a walk around the city.

Once through the gates, you’ll find the Mdina Dungeons, a fun (if gory) attraction located below the former Courts of Justice The next stop is the Magisterial Palace. Today it houses the many artefacts and displays of the Museum of Natural History.

From here, go on to discover the Bishop’s Palace, the Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum, the Mdina Experience, the Banca Giuratale and the Episcopal Seminary, which holds the Cathedral Museum’s rich collection of musical manuscripts. Meanwhile, Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, today an exquisite five-star hotel, is no less impressive, with its elegant 18th-century façade facing a charming square.

The town’s main square, surrounded by stately buildings, is a minute’s walk away.

Spend some time taking in the architectural splendour here and look out for the English NeoGothic house. When it was first built in the early 20th century it drew criticism for jarring with the predominant baroque style, nevertheless today it sits comfortably among Mdina’s other

gems. Finally, pit stop by the bastions to take in the fantastic view of much of Malta below.

As you leave the gates, take a break and enjoy some tea and pastizzi (local savoury delicacies – cheese or pea cakes) at a hole-in-the-wall roadside café in the neighbouring town of Rabat, which is well worth a visit in its own right.

What lies beneath this town is equally interesting. Rabat is home to an underground maze of catacombs that runs beneath its streets – the catacombs of St Paul and St Agatha. Close by stands the recently refurbished Wignacourt Museum, an arts centre and museum with a fantastic permanent exhibition and a lovely courtyard for lunching in.

Meanwhile, the stunning countryside in this part of the island is definitely worth taking in while you’re here; so wander along Dingli Cliffs for a bird’s eye view of the rugged coastline or head to Buskett Gardens, one of Malta’s very few wooded areas.

The gardens surround Verdala Palace, an imposing structure that is allegedly haunted.

Should you have the time, a visit to the busy town of Mosta could be included in your itinerary. The town houses a church dome which is an impressive 37 metres in diameter, making it the third largest in Europe and the ninth largest in the world. If you have your own transport, you should also take a short tour of the charming neighbouring villages, Naxxar, Attard, Lija and Balzan.

Churches Mosta Dome If you’re looking for a church with a story to tell, this is a must-visit.

In 1942, during a religious service, a bomb tore through the roof – but didn’t explode. No lives were lost and, today, a replica of the bomb is displayed in a small museum at the back of the church. Notably, this church also has the third largest unsupported dome in Europe.

Rotunda Square, Mosta (2143 3826). Open 9.15-11.45am, 3-4.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.15-11.45am, 3-4pm Sat. Admission free.

St Paul’s Cathedral Arguably, this church’s most outstanding feature is the apse mural of ‘The Shipwreck of St Paul’, crafted

by Mattia Preti’s bottega assistants.

The church was designed by celebrated Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà and is often hailed as one of his greatest works. If you’re visiting at Easter time, you can join the crowds who flock here from all over the island to catch a glimpse of the Cathedral’s ornate altar of repose.

Palazza Falzon

© Copyright Time Out Group 2012 T R IQ I L -KARMNU

TRIQ IS-

SA

UR AT LV

TR

I Q IS

-SU

TR

TR

Palace Santa Sophia

Q IS

-S ALIB IMQADDES

Mdina Experience IQ

M E S QUITA

TU

KU ROK

St Peter & Paul Cathedral

Casa Gourgin

PJAZZA SAN PAWL

Archbishop’s Palace

ON

St Nicholas Chapel Greeks Gate

JA

N SA IQ TR

Cathedral Museum

Palazzo Gatto Murina

N PA WL

TRIQ SA NTA SOFI T RI

St Roque

RU

QUITA TRI Q MES

IQ

ING

UA NE Z

TRIQ SA

N PIET

LA

IQ TR

TRIQ SA

TR I QS AN N I KO

L -I MH AZ

EN

Carmelite

URINA

Convent of St Benedict

St Peter St Agatha’s Chapel

Howard Gardens

Carte Capitanale

Tower of the Standard

Mdina Dungeons

SA

NP

AW L

Greek’s Gate

Nat. Museum of History

Museum of Natural History Travel back in time via Malta’s natural history – over 12,000 rocks and minerals, 4,000 birds, birds’ eggs and nests, around 200 mammals, over 200 species of fish, a varied fossil collection and thousands of local and exotic shells and insects. This museum, housed in the 18th-century Magisterial Palace, provides insight into the islands’ natural biodiversity and environmental science.

Vilhena Palace, St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 5951, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €5; €2.50-€3.50 concessions; free under-5s.

Wignacourt Museum

Howard Gardens

Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum This museum enables you to glimpse the glamorous life of yesteryear.

Housed in Mdina’s second oldest building, it was the home of Captain Olof Frederick Gollcher, a well-travelled artist, scholar and philanthropist, until the 1960s.

Today it is home to an extraordinary collection of paintings, an extremely rare French ten-hour watch, highly valuable manuscripts, jewellery, Oriental rugs, an armoury, models of galleys and several other artefacts.

Multi-lingual audio guides are provided for free upon admission, and there are activity sheets to keep younger visitors entertained.

The museum also hosts regular temporary exhibitions and has an active programme of lectures and workshops. When you feel you’ve exhausted all the nooks and crannies there are to explore, take a break at the rooftop café with extensive panoramic views.

Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4512, www.palazzofalson. com). Open 10am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission €10; €5 concessions; free 6-12s with paying adult; children under 6 not admitted.

Wignacourt Museum The recently renovated Wignacourt Collegiate Museum is part beautiful museum and part arts centre. As well as offering a lovely courtyard café for light bites and lunch, it is the ideal space to spend a couple of hours absorbing the history of the stunning pieces on display and exploring its underground maze of ancient hypogea and a complex of

World War II shelters. It is housed in a former baroque residence of the chaplains of the Knights of Malta that was inaugurated by Grand Master Aloph de Wignacourt. Among the many highlights, the main floor boasts an impressive picture gallery with works by Mattia Preti, Antoine Favray, Francesco Zahra and other Maltese and European artists.

Parish Square, College Street, Rabat (2749 4905, www.wignacourtmuseum. com). Open 9.30am-5pm daily. Admission €5; €3.50 concessions; free under-7s.

Places of interest Bastion Square This charming square is the heart of this noble city. Located at the end of Villegaignon Street, it is surrounded by beautiful stately homes and atop Mdina’s impressive bastions. Stop here to take in the views, which extend as far as Valletta and St Paul’s Bay, then think back to the days when this now-quiet space was used as a firing platform.

Mdina Casa Bernard This family-run museum makes for an interesting couple of hours of exploration – especially thanks to the paintings and silver items that have recently been added to the collection. The once-abandoned 16th-century palazzo was lovingly restored by Georges and Josette Magri, over two decades ago. The oldest part of the house is a medieval watch-tower. Other highlights include

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 85

Mdina & Around

Photo: viewingmalta.com

100 yds

TTO M TRIQ GA

Cathedral Museum This should top any list of ‘mustdos’ in Mdina. Once a seminary, this dinky museum now houses some of the Cathedral’s treasures – a collection that was salvaged from the old cathedral after the 1693 earthquake. The display includes embossed choir books, woodcuts by Albrecht Dürer and a 14th-century polyptych depicting St Paul, which

Domus Romana Easily one of the most talked about historic sites in Malta, TR this Roman townhouse was IQ Ldiscovered accidentally in 1881.

IM The most striking feature here isTARF Roman Villa the mosaic floors which, together A & Museum with those found in Pompeii and Sicily, rank among the oldest and finest compositions in the western Mediterranean. What was once home to a Roman high-flyer now boasts priceless artefacts and remains that bear witness to the flourishing bygone Roman civilisation.

Museum Esplanade, Rabat (2145 4125, www.heritagemalta.org).

Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €6; €3-€4.50 concessions; free under-6s.

100 m

0

GN EGAI TRIQ VILL

Carmelite Priory Museum Be sure to book your tour at least a day ahead of your visit as admittance is not guaranteed. Once you do get through the door of one of Malta’s only open-door monasteries, your tour, guided by one of the resident friars, will start in the stunning cloister that stands around the idyllic courtyard. Rather than a museum it’s a form of ‘open house’ experience to a priory that is still in active use. The Carmelite Church is the focal point of the attraction; look out for the impressive painting of ‘The Annunciation’ by Stefano Erardi and the ornately carved gilded wooden frame by Pietro Paolo Troisi.

Meanwhile, the adjacent 17th-century monastery provides insight into the friars’ frugal way of life. See the basic cells that ensured the monks’ life of solitude and prayer, and note a whip they used for self-flagellation.

Regular, free, classical concerts are also held here, so it’s worth calling ahead to check when the next one is on. Look out for the in-house café, too (see p86).

Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4524, www.carmelitepriorymuseum. com). Open 10am-5pm Mon-Sat (pre-booking required). Admission €4; €3 concessions; free under-12s.

0

R

Museums

once adorned the high altar of the old cathedral. A set of 15 statues by renowned Italian silversmith, Antonio Arrighi, (that once belonged to the Order of St John) completes the collection. Following recent works, the museum extends to Palazzo de Piro, round the corner. Here you’ll find an ever-evolving exhibition of religious subjects. Tickets are available both individually and as a package.

Archbishop Square, Mdina (2145 4697). Open 9.30am-4.30pm MonFri; 9.30am-3.30pm Sat. Admission €5; €3.50 concessions; free under12s.

TRI Q

St Paul’s Square, Mdina (2145 4136). Open 9.30am-4.45pm MonSat; 3-4.30pm Sun. Admission Cathedral & Museum €5; €3.50 concessions; free under-12s.

island – decorate the inside walls. You can buy your tickets online ahead of time.

St Agatha Street, Rabat (2145 4503, www.stagathamalta.com).

Open May-Aug 10am-6pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat; Sept-Apr 9am4.30pm Mon-Fri; 9am-12.30pm Sat. Admission €5; €4 concessions; €2 under-12s.

Mdina & Around

De Mondion. See p89.

the barrel-vaulted hall, three sitting rooms, dining room, chapel, the piano nobile’s stunning drawing room, library and main bedroom. Tours are held every hour and it is best to book ahead.

46 St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 1888, www.casabernard.eu). Open 10am-4pm Mon-Sat. Admission €8; €4 under-12s.

Mdina Dungeons Anyone with a penchant for guts and gore will love this museum! Set in the former prison below the Magisterial Palace, a walk through the winding passageways and cells is enough to send a shiver down anyone’s spine.

Characters and scenes from Malta’s dark and gory past are brought to life with crucifixions, beheadings and the crushing of victims beneath large stones. It is crude, but not overly grotesque.

St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 0267, www.dungeonsmalta.com).

Open 10am-4.30pm daily; 9.30am4.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission €4; €2 concessions.

The Mdina Experience Start your tour of Mdina with a multi-lingual audio-visual introduction to the island’s old capital at the Mdina Experience. It provides a quick and gripping background to all that you are about to visit in this charming city. And for more insight on the Order of St John visit another attraction ‘The Knights of Malta’, on Magazines Street, which brings to life tales from the life and times of the valiant Knights whose presence is ever so tangible in the city.

7 Mesquita Square, Mdina (2145 4322, www.themdinaexperience. com). Open 10am-4.30pm daily.

Admission €6; €3 under-12s.

Palazzo Parisio and Gardens A highlight of this charming village, Palazzo Parisio has been called a ‘miniature Versailles’. Built in the 1730s by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena and further embellished

by Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna in

1898, it is still privately owned and family-run. The magnificent baroque style gardens hold a particular appeal for visitors; from taking in the more exotic species of plants and over 65 species of hibiscus to strolling through the twisting paths of the orange grove, they are a sight to behold. Enhance your visit with afternoon tea, enjoyed overlooking the gardens.

Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com).

Open 9am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission €12; €10 concessions; €5 under-15s.

San Anton Gardens You can spend many a happy afternoon wandering through the grounds of Grand Master Antoine de Paule’s summer residence, San Anton Palace. Since Malta’s independence (1964) it has been the home of the President of Malta. With mature trees, old stone urns, fountains, ponds, symmetrical eye-catching flowerbeds and a number of animals, there’s plenty to admire as you explore. Meanwhile, do not miss a stop-over at the recently restored Kitchen Garden (open June-Aug 9.30am-2pm, 6-10pm daily; Sept-May 9.30am-7pm daily), reached through the back of the Palace Gardens, which features two coffee shops, play areas for toddlers and older children, and a variety of animals for the little ones to admire.

San Anton Palace, Attard (2149 3170). Open June-Oct 7am-7pm daily; Nov-May 7am-5pm daily.

Admission free.

St Agatha’s Catacombs Tour these impressive catacombs at your own pace, or take the guided tour. Extensive and well-preserved, they are typical of the underground cemeteries of the early days of Christianity, with numerous galleries and different types of graves. At the entrance is a crypt with an altar carved out of the rock, while a little further in, Byzantine frescoes of the Madonna, St Agatha and St Paul – some of the oldest frescoes on the

86 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

St Paul’s Grotto Legend has it that St Paul resided and preached to his followers from this tiny grotto after being shipwrecked on the island of Malta. It lies below St Paul’s parish church, and within you’ll find a marble statue of St Paul and a silver galley, which hangs from the ceiling. Right across the street are the World War II shelters that used to serve as a relatively safe haven for the war-weary inhabitants of Rabat.

St Paul’s Square, Rabat. Open 9am5pm daily. Admission free.

1 Bastion Square, Mdina (2145 0208, www.fontanellateagarden. com). Open 10am-11pm daily.

Main courses €8.50. No credit cards.

Jalies Coffee Cakes and Bakes Set in a beautifully made-over house of character in the charming village of Attard, Jalies has quickly become popular for its sweet treats and yummy menu. We love their red velvet cake – one of the best on the island – as well as their super fresh scones and afternoon tea.

Sandwiches, wraps, salads and pasta dishes are also available.

Thomas Dingli Street, Attard (2143 4590). Open 10am-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €8. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Old Priory Café It’s the ftira pizza here that we can’t get enough of – delicious Maltese bread topped with anything you can imagine; the perfect treat midsightseeing. Stop at this café within the Carmelite Priory (see p85) for a combination of contemporary and traditional cuisine. The frequently changing menu includes a number of local favourites such as froga, a tasty omelette made with pasta and cheese.

Carmelite Priory Museum, Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2702 0404). Open 10am-4pm daily.

Main courses €9. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Villa Bologna This stunning villa and gardens, located very close to the President’s Palace, is a must for anyone with a love for architecture or horticulture.

Dating back to the 18th century, the villa has both baroque and neoclassical features, while the sprawling gardens are home to wonderful examples of indigenous Maltese flora, as well as exotic plants and trees. It’s a great place to escape to for a couple of hours so take a book and relax on one of the stone benches, before Xpresso Café and venturing back to the Bistro pretty gift shop Standing just metres to rummage to the side of the for authentic, majestic Mdina locally made Cathedral, the Whether for a cup of coffee or glass souvenirs. magnificent of wine, why not take in the beauty of 18th-century San Anton your surroundings while sipping away? Palazzo de Street, There are plenty of lovely vistas to Attard (2141 Piro has enjoy in the area, but our favourites 7973, www. been restored are at Palazzo de Piro and Fontanella villabologna. to create a in Mdina – both with views off the unique venue com). Open bastions – and Tat-Tarag in 9am-5pm Monof cross-cultural, Rabat.

Fri; 9am-1pm artistic and social Sat. Admission €5; dialogue. Led by free under-12s.

Kevin Bonello – the highly regarded chef de cuisine at de Mondion restaurant (see p89), Xpresso Café – found within the palazzo – offers a mouth-watering Hidden within the winding array of sweet and savoury treats. streets of Mdina and Rabat During the warmer months take a you’ll find a few foodie gems. seat in the open-air courtyard and You’ll be spoilt for choice for enjoy the spectacular views of the fine dining, romantic spots, café Maltese countryside. culture and local cuisine, so it’s 3 Bastion Street, Mdina (2010 worth extending your stay to 0560, www.palazzodepiro.com). encompass lunch, tea or dinner.

Open July-Oct 10am-11pm daily; Nov-June 10am-5pm daily. Main CafÉs courses €5. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Fontanella Tea Garden If it’s good old comfort food you french want, then head straight here for some of the best cakes on the island.

Bacchus Enjoy them, or a meal of baguettes, We’re waiting excitedly for this pastizzi (cheese and pea cakes) and Mdina stalwart to unveil its new pizza, while peeking over the bastions menu – especially as, if the last 37 at the view below. years are anything to go by, it is

a drink with a view

Where to eat

wignacourt museum

Visit the Wignacourt museum complex & experience the highlights of Malta’s history.

MuseuMs

WWII shelters

catacoMbs

Open Monday–Sunday: 9.30am – 5.00pm Tel: 2749 4905 Email: info@wignacourtmuseum.com Find us on Facebook & Trip Advisor

bound to be delicious. It offers Frenchinspired, creative, fusion dishes and we always enjoy whatever’s available here – tasty, home-style cooking served beautifully. Choose to dine in the sombre vaulted interior with stone floors, or, on a warmer evening opt for the more relaxed and romantic terrace with truly unsurpassable views. Wi-Fi is available.

1 Inguanez Street, Mdina (2145 4981, www.bacchus.com. mt). Open noon-11pm daily. Main courses €16. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

mediterranean Caffé Luna Few venues quite match up to the splendour of the 18th-century Palazzo Parisio, located in the pretty village of Naxxar. With a plush interior and plenty of tables out in the garden, weather permitting, this is a luxurious choice for breakfast,

Ciappetti We love this eatery – perfect for getting away from the world for a while. Dine in the courtyard or at an indoor table, where you can also feast your eyes on the selection of local art (which is for sale). Chef-patrons Peter and Marie Louise will guide you through their menu, though the general consensus is that the goats’ cheese ravioli as well as the Maltese platter and rabbit liver seared in honey and balsamic vinegar are not to be missed.

5 St Agatha’s Esplanade, Mdina (2145 9987). Open June-Oct 11.30am-3pm, 7-10pm Tue-Sat; Nov-May 11.30am-3pm daily; 7-10pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €13.50-€20. Credit MC, V. L’Agape There’s little not to love about this tiny restaurant in the Rabat core, which spills out onto the pjazza so you can dine under the stars. It’s heavily influenced by the Italian concept of an osteria – with no fixed menu items, but an almost dailychanging backboard of choices that reflect what’s fresh and in season. If available, our top picks include the fettucine with tuna chunks, Irish ribeye and local date cakes served with fig ice-cream.

25 St Kataldu Street, Rabat (2099 2209, www.lagapemalta.com).

Open 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Lord Nelson The pretty façade of this traditional townhouse conceals the relaxed yet chic interior of this popular restaurant. Upon entering you are greeted by the extremely courteous staff who lead you to your table – booking ahead is definitely recommended. Although the specials of the day are normally a safe bet, firm favourites are the prawn and coconut soup, and the rack of lamb with a spiced crust, but we are eagerly awaiting their new menu, to be launched at the end of August. For a romantic evening we suggest booking the balcony table for two, with a fantastic view of the impressive Mosta Dome. Prices are on the high side.

278 Main Street, Mosta (2143 2590, www.thelordnelsonmalta. com). Open 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat. Closed 1wk Jan and 3wks Aug. Main courses €18-€30. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Medina A real winner for romance and special occasions, this restored medieval house is a celebration of Maltese food and hospitality. Enjoy a drink in the cosy ‘den’ (admiring the list of awards on the walls), as you pick from the diverse menu. If you fancy something local, choose from the ‘flavours of Malta’ section, with specialities that include Maltese meze and traditional rabbit ragù.

Alternatively, try the Moroccan spiced rack of lamb on a scallion and herb mash or the pan-seared free-range chicken stuffed with Gozo peppered cheese and speck farci.

Finish with the moreish caramel and chocolate chip pannacotta.

7 Holy Cross Street, Mdina (2145 4004, www.medinarestaurantmalta.

Critics’ choice Restaurants

1

De Mondion Restaurant Top marks for quality, service and views. See left.

2 3

Caffé Luna The place to impress and be impressed. See left.

Sharma Ethnic Cuisine A recently opened eatery that’s taking its loyal followers on a gastronomic journey across cuisines. See p90.

4

Rickshaw It’s so good, the brand has been exported to other Corinthia hotels across the world.

See below.

5

Ta’ Marija The best in town for local authentic cuisine. See below.

com). Open 7-11.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €15-€30. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Marija If it’s local cuisine that you’re after, you’d do well to head straight to this authentic and family-run eatery in Mosta. The most popular items are old favourites: sautéed rabbit liver or home-made ricotta ravioli with a tomato and basil sauce to start with, and any of the three rabbit-based dishes for your main course. If you’re not particularly hungry, there’s a light bistro lunch menu with great salads, sandwiches and snacks. Extensive buffets are served on Saturdays and Sundays, while sprightly folklore nights are organised every Wednesday and Friday.

Constitution Street, Mosta (2143 4444, www.tamarija.com). Open noon-3pm, 6.30-11.30pm daily.

Main courses €15-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. oriental

Xara Palace Relais & Château. See p90.

Rickshaw As one of the longest-standing Oriental restaurants on the island, this place is an institution – and the ‘brand’ has even been extended to other Corinthia hotels, including those in Prague and Budapest. The menu features dishes from across the Far East and includes favourites such as teriyaki duck with sticky rice from Japan, stir-fried chicken in soya sauce with peanuts, chilli and vegetables from China, and Rickshaw prawns served in garlic, black pepper, coriander and whisky (China). Top it all off with traditional Eastern desserts and original Japanese saki or a local award-winning bottle of wine.

Corinthia Palace Hotel and Spa, De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 89

Mdina & Around

De Mondion Restaurant Consistently rated among the top restaurants on the island, de Mondion gets full marks for service, food quality, presentation and wine list, as well as for its plush decor. The newly launched menu, designed by executive chef Kevin Bonello and his award-winning brigade, has whetted our appetites. Try the pan-fried fresh Scottish scallops and braised pork belly with maple syrup or the organic smoked risotto with asparagus and chimeji mushrooms for starters, followed by the fresh local fish of the day, prepared to your liking, or the roast tenderloin of venison scented with lime zest. For an enchanting evening, book a table on the terrace and dine al fresco on the Mdina bastions.

Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.demondion.com). Open 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €30-€40. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

lunch, traditional English afternoon tea and dinner. The menu here is largely Italian with a few local choices. Our favourites include the risotto in a creamy langoustine bisque, with prawn calamari and white fish tempura, and the tender pan-fried fillet of beef. Leave room for the chocolate layer cake. For an al fresco evening in style, head to their aperitivo evenings, every Thursday from June to August.

Palazzo Parisio and Gardens, Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com).

Open 9am-6pm Tue-Sun; 7.3011.30pm Wed-Sun. Main courses €21. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Mdina & Around

0301). Open 7-11pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €9-€17. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Sharma Ethnic Cuisines For a taste of the Orient in this beguiling city, head straight to Sharma – where both the cuisine and decor are inspired by the ancient spice trading route which used to run from India, through the Middle East, and onto North Africa and the Mediterranean. Dine on the terrace if the weather permits, enjoying lovely views from the bastions, or indoors in a room that dates back to the Knights’ stay in Malta. The food is an eclectic and delicious mix, but we love the dips, platters and authentic curries best of all.

19 Casa Magazzini, Magazines Street, Mdina (2145 3817, www. sharma.com.mt). Open noon-4pm, 6.30pm-midnight daily. Main courses €15. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink For a more authentic place to enjoy a before- or after-dinner drink, head here – most bars are within old townhouses bursting with character and oozing local charm.

Don Mesquita Well-priced and with a fantastic selection of food, this little wine bar – with its rustic decor, traditional stone walls and welcoming hosts – is a must-visit on your tour of Mdina. We particularly like the local platter, with cold cuts, mozzarella and local bread.

5A Mesquita Square, Mdina (2702 6640). Open July, Aug 10am-3pm Tue-Sat; 7.30pm-1am Fri, Sat; SeptJune 10am-3pm daily; 7.30pm-1am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Il Vecchio Forno A favourite among locals, Il Vecchio Forno wine bar serves a variety of platters, focaccias, wraps and other daily specialities such as fresh pasta dishes and tasty pizzas. It’s also known for its Italian-inspired food, including the tasty Tuscan bean soup (ribollita). It’s ideal for a quiet drink, quick snack or full-blown meal.

27 Eucharistic Congress Road, Mosta (2142 1461, www. ilvecchiofornowinebar.com). Open noon-2pm, 7pm-midnight daily.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tat-Tarag Get into the Mediterranean mood by stopping by at this night-time stalwart. The ambience is best enjoyed overlooking the view, with a glass of wine in hand. There are tasty snacks on offer too, including the moreish dips, platters or the Brie wheel served with fig jam and toasted ftira. The ravioli with porcini mushrooms are also very popular.

Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (2145 3088,

s p e n d a d ay i n t h e a r e a Our recommended itinerary

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Mario Galea

T

here’s absolutely loads to do in and around Mdina. Start your day with pastizzi (a local speciality made from crisp filo pastry and a mixture of either peas or ricotta cheese) and tea served in a glass at Crystal Palace, near the Domus Romana (see p85). Then head into Mdina, Malta’s old capital – stopping to admire the recently completed gardens below the bastions. Once inside Mdina Gate, visit Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum (see p85), a fascinating museum and historic home, as well as the Carmelite Church and Priory Museum (see p85), and the Cathedral (see p84) and its adjacent museum.

Following lunch in Mdina or Rabat, take a peek at the treasures of the Wignacourt Museum (see p85) and go back in time at St Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat. Then take the long, main road down towards the ‘three villages’ of Balzan, Lija and Attard. The highlights here are San Anton Gardens (pictured, see p86), the President’s Kitchen Garden and Villa Bologna (see p86) – all within easy walking distance of each other in Attard. Wind down with walks through the pretty village cores of Lija and Balzan, and end your day in Mosta, with a cuppa in one of the cafés overlooking the historic Mosta Dome (see p84) or dinner in town or back in romantic Mdina.

www.tat-tarag.com). Open 6pm1am Tue-Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Nightlife Nightlife may not be abundant in this area, but there are a few fantastic options – especially if you hope to party under the stars. Just remember to book a taxi home, as public transport is limited.

Clubs Club Numero Uno Party among Malta’s ‘it’ crowd at this open-air club. Especially popular on summer weekends, local DJs spin music of different genres on the decks according to the night – house music on Fridays and commercial house and R&B on the main dance floor on Saturdays. There’s also chill-out music in a separate area. For a night out in winter, Club Miami, within the same site, is open every Saturday (10pm-4am; admission €6).

Ta’ Qali Crafts Village, Rabat (2141 5241, www.clubnumerouno. com). Open June-Sept 11pm-4am Fri, Sat. Admission €5 Fri; €5-€10 Sat. Gianpula The latest addition to this hotspot is a rooftop club and lounge restaurant,

90 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

both of which have added to its unfaltering popularity over the past 30 years. The choice of music here changes depending on the crowd, with everything from R&B and commercial to house music spun by local and top international DJs. It has in fact hosted some of the world’s biggest names including Cream, Ministry of Sound, Cassius, Seb Fontaine, Boy George and Rui da Silva.

Rabat (9947 2133, www.gianpula. com). Open 10.30pm-4am Fri-Sun. Admission €6-€15.

Where to stay Mdina and its neighbours make for a wonderful place to stay – away from the hustle and bustle, and harking back to a more tranquil time. It is also a great spot from where to explore the rest of the island.

Expensive Corinthia Palace Hotel and Spa There’s something wonderfully welcoming about the traditional (yet cosmopolitan) five-star hotel in the charming village of Attard. You’ll enjoy great facilities, including a top spa, large swimming pool, tennis courts, landscaped gardens and the highly recommended Far Eastern Rickshaw Restaurant (see p89).

Rooms are spacious and bright, and the hotel’s quiet location just a two-minute walk from San Anton Palace and Gardens, allows for complete relaxation. Free transport to other areas of the island, including Valletta, Sliema, St Julian’s and the island’s only golf course (see p66) is provided for guests.

De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 0301, www.corinthia.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €135 single; €149 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux Housed within the walls of a 17thcentury palazzo, once home to the noble Moscati Parisio family, the Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux offers the chance to travel back in time and discover Malta’s rich and colourful heritage. This exquisite, elegant hotel offers a tasteful blend of oldmeets-new, with a number of rooms equipped with jacuzzis and furnished with stunning antique pieces. Most rooms, which feel modern and inviting, enjoy extensive views of the countryside sprawled beneath majestic Mdina. The Xara Lodge, situated five minutes away, also offers guests leisure and conference facilities.

Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.xarapalace.com.mt).

Rates (incl breakfast) €175-€450 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. cheap Maple Farm Bed and Breakfast Within walking distance from Malta’s largest wooded area and with the promise of fantastic hospitality, this place is a real Mediterranean welcome. The breakfast room is bright and has a generous spread, while the bedrooms are all spacious – with facilities including air-conditioning, TV and tea- and coffee-making facilities. The highlight is the stunning swimming pool and lush gardens. A €15 supplement is payable for a one-night stay.

Buskett Road, Rabat (2748 0049, www.maplefarmbedandbreakfast. com). Rates (incl breakfast) €60 single; €75 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Point De Vue Guesthouse Breath-taking views of the surrounding countryside and neighbouring Mdina are enjoyed from most of the 12 large rooms of this charming family-run establishment.

The guesthouse offers value for money, with comfortable rooms all equipped with en suite facilities, and the added bonus of an excellent inhouse restaurant. Half board options are also available.

2/7 Saqqajja Square, Rabat (2145 4117, www.pointdevuemalta.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €32 single; €64 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

Bugibba, Mellieha & Around Overview and sightseeing 94 Where to eat 94 Where to drink 98 Nightlife 98 Arts and entertainment 98 Where to stay 98

Photo: Lincolm Grima

Bugibba, Mellieha & Around

Selmun

A natural beauty One of the most picturesque parts of Malta, the north is popular for its beaches, rural spots, family-friendly activities and restaurants

B

ugibba, with its multistorey apartment blocks, eateries offering fry-ups and numerous pubs and karaoke bars, is an acquired taste, but a popular first stop on your tour, especially for a walk along the pretty promenade. It can also be great fun if you’re on the hunt for lively entertainment.

If you’re not, head further north and you’ll notice a change in the landscape – stretches of golden sand, stunning countryside views and some of the top diving sites.

Bugibba merges almost imperceptibly with its more tranquil neighbouring village of St Paul’s Bay. Once a quiet fishing village, it retains some characteristics of times gone by, with quaint townhouses and colourful fishing boats bobbing in the small bay.

The uninhabited St Paul’s islands, where it is said the ship that St Paul, patron saint of Malta who converted the islands to Christianity, was shipwrecked in AD 60, lie across the water.

You can visit them by boat on organised cruises around the islands.

The Wignacourt Tower (St Gerard Street, 2121 5222. Open 10am-1pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-

1pm first Sunday of the month) is months, as the small sandy bay and surroundings rocks are rarely one of two historical attractions too busy. found in St Paul’s Bay. Built by Another alternative is to head Grandmaster Wignacourt in 1610 to the nearby Selmun Palace to guard the bay from any seato take in the beauty of this borne attack, it was the island’s architectural gem, built in 1619, first coastal defence tower which served as the summer and today holds an interesting residence of the Order exhibition on the Knights of St John’s Grand of Malta’s military Masters. Just a architecture and short walk or weaponry. drive away is Less than a the tiny and stone’s throw Malta is due to get its first secluded away stands national aquarium any minute Selmun Bay, the Chapel – so why not party with the fish on known to of St Paul’s your visit? Check their site for locals as Shipwreck. updates: www.aquarium.com.mt.

Imgiebah.

It is believed Next door is Malta’s own Café del Although that St Paul Mar, a one-of-kind day and night hard to find, managed to stylish place to swim, lounge should you scramble ashore and watch a spectacular manage to get exactly at the spot sunset. there, you will where the chapel have landed on a little stands today. The piece of paradise. original chapel was destroyed Mellieha is recognised as in World War II and was rebuilt a European Destination of in the 1950s (open 6.30-8am, Excellence, largely because of its 6-8pm daily). historical importance, stunning Your next destination is most natural beauty and excellent likely to be Mellieha, although array of facilities, which make it is definitely worth stopping it an ideal holiday base. In fact, at Mistra Bay on the way there the locality boasts broad areas or back. The bay is ideal for a of natural habitats and eco-trails quiet country walk in winter or ideal for walking and cycling, a quick dip during the summer

94 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

under the sea

besides stunning beaches.

Perched at the top of a hill overlooking the turquoise waters of Mellieha Bay, also known as Ghadira Bay, Mellieha dates back to medieval times, when pilgrims used to flock to visit the miraculous statue of the Madonna in the underground rock-cut chapel, the Grotto of Our Lady (Gorg Borg Olivier Street).

The small cuboid chapel (open 8am-noon, 4-6pm daily; admission free) has no adornments apart from the old revered statue of the Madonna, but it is imbued with a medieval atmosphere.

Pilgrims would lodge at the Sanctuary, a convent-like building set around a charming courtyard dominated by the Church of Our Lady of Mellieha (open 6-8.30am, 5-7.30pm Mon-Thur, Sat; 4-7.30pm Fri; 5.30am-noon, 4-6.30pm Sun; admission free), partly embedded in a cave, with only two built walls. The church that stands today dates back to the 17th century and is well worth a visit to see the fantastic mosaic of the Madonna.

Down in Mellieha Bay, a Bird Sanctuary, a fresh water haven for migrating birds, offers bird watching facilities, together with guided tours around the entire complex.

Right across from Mellieha, standing on a high ridge overlooking the bay, is the impressive Red Tower, also known as St Agatha’s Tower. It was built by the Knights in 1647 and also served as an important defensive position during the two World Wars (open 10am-1pm Mon, Wed-Sun; 10am-3pm Tue).

The northern part of Malta is a marine protected area and has some excellent diving sites. If action is not really your thing, then there are ample picturesque beaches to relax on and soak up some rays (see Sand between your toes p98).

Sandy beaches in the area are excellently equipped, offering sun-beds and umbrellas. The most easily accessible, and probably the most popular, is Mellieha Bay, recently awarded Blue Flag status.

Where to eat Locals have made the north one of their top destinations for great food and wine – made even more special thanks to the beautiful country and sea views on offer here. mediterranean Agliolio A great choice for an inexpensive meal right at the water’s edge.

Agliolio is family-friendly and continues to impress its loyal

noon-4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Thur, Sun; noon-4pm, 6-10.30pm Fri, Sat; June-Sept noon-4pm, 6-10.30pm Mon-Thur, Sun; noon-4pm, 6-11pm Fri-Sat. Main courses €17-€24.50.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Critics’ choice Restaurants

1

Bugibba & Around

Tarragon The energy in the Tarragon kitchen is reflected in the varied and exciting dishes that feed a multitude of loyal customers day in, day out. See p98.

2 3

The Arches Want to impress? Dress up, head here and enjoy a feast for the senses. See right.

Giuseppi’s There’s an emphasis on what’s local and what’s fresh at exquisite and charming family-run Giuseppi’s. See right.

4

Baia (pictured) You can’t really get a more Mediterranean dining experience than this – beach dining has taken on a new dimension locally with the opening of beautifully designed Baia a few years ago. See right.

5

Essence Refined style and stunning views are a perfect backdrop to the excellent dining experience here. See right.

6

Ta’ Cassia A locals’ favourite, particularly for Sunday lunch by the fireplace or for dinner in the lovely garden. See p98. customers, who return on a regular basis to enjoy the delicious food and unparalleled views. Indulge in the mixed starters and the selection of pizzas, pasta with prawns or rabbit liver (gluten-free pasta is available). Their delicious desserts include warm apple crumble with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream, chocolate baci cake and a selection of ice-cream made in-house.

Radisson Blu Resort and Spa, Malta Golden Sands, Golden Bay, Mellieha (2356 1925). Open Oct-May

€17-€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

pastries) to the malt chocolate parfait. Specials also change weekly and usually feature the freshest fish in season.

Main Street, Mellieha (2157 4882, www.giuseppismalta.com). Open 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €18-€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

The Diningroom This exciting new, casual concept restaurant concentrates on high-end Mediterranean cuisine.

The Arches The emphasis is on yummy local It may have been around for produce and the team behind this decades, but The Arches still holds place enjoys taking diners out of its own as one of the best choices Il-Mithna their comfort zone. ‘Chef’s for fine dining in Malta. Start with The food at this former windmill Dinners’ are the speciality and one of their special cocktails as you guests are asked to contact the and well-loved landmark is browse the enticing, seasonal predominantly Mediterranean, restaurant a couple of days before menu. Dig into the beef carpaccio though the fusion touches make it to organise their special dinner with a mustard and honey glaze, even more special. Tables outdoors – chef Edward will then craft followed by the seared fillet of provide a lovely al fresco something delectable to venison with braised red cabbage, ambience, while suit your tastes. swede mash, mango relish, indoors is bursting Alternatively, just strawberry spread and valrhona with character. pop in to try his jus. Their freshly prepared For starters we suggestions; There’s so much for little ones to desserts, including the caramelised the menu recommend love about their time in Malta. Our pear and thyme mille feuille, and the deep-fried changes favourite kid-friendly sites include the fresh goat petit fours are in a class of their every couple Mediterraneo Animal Park and own. Ideal for that special evening cheese of weeks and Splash and Fun in Bahar ic-Caghaq, – just book ahead and dress up. served with it’s a pleasing Popeye Village and Mellieha Bay 113 Gorg Borg Olivier Street, strawberry fusion of local (see p98) in Mellieha, the Mellieha (2152 3460, www. chutney – a favourites and President’s Kitchen Garden in thearchesmalta.com). Open 7-11pm international real classic, Balzan and the Playmobil Mon-Sat. Main courses €25-€32. followed by flair.

Funpark in Hal-Far. rabbit saddle Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Marfa Road, stuffed with chicken Mellieha (7922 and pistachios, and Baia Beach Club 2098, www. wrapped in parma ham.

A must for both beach- and thediningroommalta.com).

Leave room for the scrumptious food-lovers, this stunning lido is Open 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon. chocolate pudding for afters. beautifully designed without being Main courses €17-€25. Credit 58 Main Street, Mellieha (2152 pretentious. The beach club enjoys AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. 0404, www.mithna.com). Open beachside service, a cocktail bar, 6-10.30pm daily. Main courses €18. luxury beach furniture (at a price) Essence and other great facilities. Its This sophisticated and classic Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. restaurant, operated by a Sicilian restaurant, with views across team of chefs, offers up crudité Golden Bay, provides five-star Margo’s platters of raw salmon, tuna and service and delicious food. Start You’re promised pizza with a with the Asian risotto cake, sesame difference at this slightly oysters, followed by pasta dishes like paccheri with swordfish, crispy pak choi and tiger prawn samosa off-the-beaten-track spot – a lovely fritto misto or the fresh catch of the or the plum tomato and buffalo rural setting that’s worth the small day, as well as salads and juicy cuts mozzarella lasagne, followed by a trek. The focus is on top of meat (view their menu online). variety of refined dishes, the likes ingredients: fresh water buffalo Saturday mornings see yoga of wild venison with pumpkin mozzarella (organic), tasty sausage classes held in this inspiring vanilla purée and a delectable (smoked in-house) and plump setting, while if utter relaxation is slow-roasted fillet of beef. tomatoes (once again organic). on your agenda, an on-site Complete this incredible dining Margo’s also offers a pizza with beautician can be booked by experience with the Madagascar white truffles, 24-carat gold leaf appointment for massages and vanilla pannacotta set on a citrus and buffalo mozzarella for a other beauty treatments. olive oil cake with raspberry and whopping €1,800 (and this Armier Road, Mellieha (2157 0942, blueberry ice-cream. depends on the market price of www.baiabeachclub.com). Open Radisson Blu Resort and Spa, truffles). Should you be keen to try May, Sept 10am-7pm Tue-Fri, Sun; Malta Golden Sands, Golden Bay, it, be sure to give prior warning, as 10am-midnight Sat; June 10am-7pm Mellieha (2356 1000). Open the truffles are flown in on the day Tue-Thur, Sun; 10am-midnight Fri, 7-10pm Tue-Sat. Main courses from Piemonte.

Sat; July-Aug 10am-midnight €21.50-€26.50. Credit AmEx, DC, Mistra Bay (2762 7467, www.

Tue-Sat; 10am-7pm Mon, Sun. JCB, MC, V. margosmalta.com). Open Main courses €23. Credit AmEx, noon-3pm, 6-11pm daily. Main DC, JCB, MC, V. Giuseppi’s Restaurant courses €7. No credit cards. Other Snag a table at this pretty little locations 23 St George’s Road, St Bouquet Garni restaurant and you won’t be sorry Julian’s; 63 Republic Street, This small family-run restaurant – the whole experience will be one Valletta. gains popularity year on year. The to remember. Dining is on two chefs, brothers Darren and Wayne, floors and the ever-changing menu Rebekah’s offer a short-and-sweet menu with a offers some original dishes, such Set in a 17th-century farmhouse and tucked away in the old village changing specialities board. We as the seppioline (little cuttlefish recommend anything fish-based – a stuffed with bread, pecorino and core, this restaurant is a real find clear speciality – as well as the garlic), gnocchi with fresh clams, and the menu changes regularly. rib-eye steak with king prawns, fried zucchini flowers, grilled Starters include ravioli with mussels and garlic cream sauce. calamaretti and stuffed quail – Maltese sausage, red Leicester and Finish off with the yummy pavlova though our favourites are the fresh pak choi, while we love their or sticky toffee pudding. slow-cooked local rabbit and wild local red prawns, cooked to boar for mains. Do leave room for 4 Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha perfection. The lovely desserts (2152 2234). Open 6.30pmrange from the ever-popular the freshly baked dark chocolate 10.15pm Mon-Sat. Main courses imqaret (local sweets – date-filled fondant for dessert too. Dine

96 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

best for kids

Bugibba & Around

indoors or out (in the courtyard, which is also a smoking area), and book ahead. Complimentary pick-up and drop-off services are available from a number of hotels in the area.

12 Old Mill Street, Mellieha (2152 1145, www.rebekahsmalta.com).

Open June-Oct 7-10.30pm daily; Nov-May 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-2pm Sun. Main courses €17-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Cassia Well-worth seeking out, this 180-year-old house of character is loved for its charming ambience and great food. We’ve made our way through much of the menu here, and never been let down. We love the marinated octopus salad and the Maltese snails in a herb-tomato sauce for starters. For mains, the peppered fillet steak remains a favourite followed, of course, by their famous cassatella Siciliana. Dine indoors in the cosy dining room or outside amid the lush and mature garden. Also very popular for Sunday lunches in winter.

Catacombs Street, Salina (2157 1435, www.tacassia.com). Open June-Sept 7-11pm daily; Oct-May 7-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses €22. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tarragon Run by one of the island’s most respected and multi-award winning chefs, Marvin Gauci, there’s a sense of adventure in the air at Tarragon – and a nod towards molecular gastronomy too. You’ll be in for a memorable evening, and don’t be afraid to try something different. Most recently, we were impressed by the starter of salmon sashimi served on a house-dried salmon skin cracker topped with smoked cream cheese and hibiscus-infused onions, and the chocolate and orange ravioli filled with ricotta salata, tossed in an oyster crème fraîche. Meat is also taken seriously and can be trusted, as Marvin will only source the best cuts of meat. To round off, indulge in the impressive liquid nitro special – a feast for all the senses!

Church Street, St Paul’s Bay (2157 3759, www.tarragonmalta.com).

Open June-Sept 6.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat; Oct-May also noon-4pm Sun. Main courses €15-€27. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Where to drink Whether under the stars or in a dinky watering hole, there’s so much to love about relaxed evenings in the Mediterranean.

The north has lots of little bars and pubs to enjoy, especially in Bugibba, while Mellieha is more popular for wine bars.

sand between your toes The north’s best sandy beaches

The Fortress Wine and Dine As the name suggests, this historic fortress has been transformed into a trendy hangout. Attracting a young crowd, it’s the ideal venue to enjoy a cool summer night, relaxing on one of the sofas on the massive terrace and taking in the breath-taking bay views. With around 200 wines to choose from, you’ll certainly be spoilt for choice.

There’s also a vast list of nibbles from around the world, including Maltese and Chinese platters, sushi and French cheeses.

Xemxija Hill, Xemxija (2157 9852).

Open July-Sept 7-11pm Tue-Sun; Oct-June 7-11pm Wed-Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB MC, V.

Nightlife Bugibba is popular for nights out, offering everything from salsa to karaoke and clubbing nights with top DJs. Mellieha is generally more laid-back, although you may well happen on a beach or impromptu party, especially around festa-time.

1

Golden Bay Space on the sand at one of the islands’ most popular beaches can get quite limited during the hot summer months. Served by two restaurants on either side of the picturesque bay and a few kiosks on the way down, it is no wonder Golden Bay, set in an area of stunning beauty, is quite so busy. Make time to watch sunset here – it’s breath-taking.

2

Mellieha Bay (Ghadira) Made up of three adjoining beaches taking up a good stretch of coast along the north of Malta, Ghadira’s fine sand and shallow waters make it a great bay for those who aren’t too comfortable with swimming in the deep. Mellieha Bay has recently been awarded Blue Flag status and boasts a number of kiosks, cafés and water sports options.

3

Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha, pictured) Another of the islands’ beaches that was recently awarded Blue Flag status is the beautiful Riviera Bay, known to most locals as Ghajn Tuffieha. The beach is accessible via a steep flight of steps that may deter some but keeps this beach less crowded than its neighbouring Golden Bay and all the better for it.

4

Paradise Bay Isolated and picture-perfect, the rock formations surrounding small Paradise Bay provide a magnificent view and ideal backdrop to another of the island’s much-loved beaches. The flight of steps to reach it is interrupted by a lido and restaurant which offers a delightful space to lunch or freshen up with an ice-cream or cocktail.

5

Gnejna Bay Slightly removed and less crowded than some of the other beaches on the list, the serene Gnejna Bay is the ideal bathing spot for families.

Fat Harry’s This typical British pub promises a great, fun night out, with live entertainment from Wednesday to Sunday and live sporting events shown on the big screen. Bar prices are competitive (ask for any special offers at the bar) and there is a wide selection of bar snacks

98 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

and typical pub food served all day, such as beer-battered fish and chips with mushy peas.

Bay Square, Bugibba (2157 2163, www.fatharryspub.com). Open 11am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Malta International Airport, Gudja (2757 2163).

Mynt Club Locals mingle with ex-pats and foreign visitors at this hip nightclub that combines unbeatable views with a great vibe. Expect house music, funk and European pop, and for a breath of fresh air head to the extensive terrace. Those younger than 17 are not allowed in.

Dolmen Resort Hotel, Qawra (2355 2355, www.dolmen.com.mt). Open June-Sept 9pm-4am daily; Oct-May 9pm-4am Fri-Sun. Admission free.

Arts and entertainment If you want to get out of the sun, why not seek alternative entertainment? There are plenty of activities to enjoy in this area, including a trip to the cinema.

Cinemas Empire Cinema Catch the latest blockbuster at the only cinema in the north-west that screens Hollywood and 3D films, with two screens now equipped with Digital 2D and Digital 3D systems. This complex is also starting to screen live operas from time to time, helping culture vultures to get their fix too.

Pioneer Road, Bugibba (2158 1787, www.empirecinema.com.mt).

Screens 7. Tickets €6 (3D €8); €3.50 children (3D €5).

Where to stay The north is a popular place to stay because it boasts some of the best beaches, as well as

options for outdoor activities and restaurants. Although somewhat cut off from the centre of the island, it’s a great base, especially if you hope to explore more of the island’s natural beauty.

in all the rooms.

Tourists Street, Qawra (2158 3434, www.sanantonio-malta.com). Rates (breakfast incl) €40-€180 single; €50-€260 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

making waves Sunbathing is too tame for you?

Try out any of these water sports

Expensive

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Markus Kirchgessner

1

Dolmen Resort Hotel Enjoy the fabulous open views at this brilliantly located, familyfriendly hotel. The Dolmen offers various facilities including a private beach lido, water sports, a club on the coast (see p98), the popular Oracle casino, a diving club, a summer-only kids’ club and several dining options. Most rooms enjoy a balcony overlooking the sea, with views of St Paul’s islands, and all are en suite and air-conditioned.

The terrace, part of the beach club, was recently refurbished and is ideal for pre- or post-dinner drinks.

Dolmen Street, Qawra (2355 2355, www.dolmen.com.mt). Rates (breakfast incl) €121-€300 single; €140-€350 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ramla Bay Resort Situated on Malta’s northernmost shore, this picturesque resort offers spectacular views of Comino and Gozo. It was recently refurbished and has a number of facilities the whole family will enjoy, including a private sandy beach, three pools, a spa, a seasonal kids’ club and a water sports centre. For sheer relaxation the choice is endless: enjoy peaceful solitude in the shade of bamboo parasols, read a book on one of the many landscaped terraces, pamper yourself at the tranquil Spa Du

2 3

Sailing Malta is great for sailing whatever your experience level.

Charter a yacht for an unforgettable day, morning or even entire weekend exploring the beaches in Malta, Gozo and Comino. Prices for charters depend on your requirements, but there’s sure to be an option to suit all pockets. For yacht owners, Malta boasts several well-sheltered harbours and equipped marinas catering for yachts from 16 to 100 metres long.

4

Snorkelling Keen to explore the wonders of the deep but not sure about diving? Stay close to the surface while witnessing the islands’ fascinating reefs and underwater inhabitants including cephalopods, starfish, sea urchins and molluscs. Many hotels and holiday resorts offer snorkelling lessons and excursions during the summer months.

5

Kayaking Experience the beauty of the Maltese coastline from a kayak or canoe. You can hire one for a couple of hours and take yourself for a ride around some of Malta’s most beautiful bays for an afternoon of sea-bound discovery.

For a full list of sporting activities visit www.visitmalta.com/en/sportcalendar Soleil or sip a cocktail as the sun sets on the horizon across the open sea.

Marfa, Mellieha (2281 2281, www. ramlabayresort.com). Rates (breakfast incl) €97.50-€127.50 single; €130-€190 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. San Antonio Hotel and Spa The recently refurbished pool area has really set this hotel apart, as it

now has three pools and a jacuzzi for guests to enjoy. The hotel’s whitewashed walls, bright rooms and eye-catching limestone give it a typical Mediterranean look and feel. If you want to treat yourself, try the two-hour Body Bliss spa package that will set you back €82, or to really spoil yourself opt for the seven-hour Seven Wonders day spa retreat, for €210. Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel and

Seashells Resort at Suncrest Ideally situated on the Qawra promenade, this hotel not only offers breath-taking views of the Mediterranean Sea but also great hospitality and a variety of food and beverage outlets. It is a firm favourite, particularly for its fantastic pool area and water slide.

The resort also offers an allinclusive package, which has you entirely covered – from your morning cereal to your evening cocktail. The hotel’s signature Carisma Spa and Turkish Bath offers the ultimate pampering experience and is the ideal remedy to finding mind and body balance.

Other organised activities include aqua aerobics, water-volley, surfing, sailing, canoeing, water skiing and a professional diving school, all of which are available seasonally.

Qawra Coast Road, Qawra (2157 7101, www.seashellsresortmalta. com). Rates €80-€138 single/ double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cheap Soreda Hotel Relax by the two outdoor pools (or indoor pool in winter) and take in the views from the rooftop bar – this hotel promises great value in the heart of Qawra. The lounge is spacious, rooms are bright and airy, and the facilities good – making it ideal for families and groups. All-inclusive options are available.

Andrew Cunningham Street, Qawra (2157 6267, www.soredahotelmalta. com). Rates €50 single; €80 double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 99

Bugibba & Around

Radisson Blu Resort and Spa, Malta Golden Sands Most agree that this is one of the top five-star hotels on the island, flanked by beautiful surroundings and providing top facilities. The location is beautiful, with views of Golden Bay and the Mediterranean stretching out before you. Outdoor facilities include lovely terraces and pool area, with top choices for dining by the sea. Indoors impresses too and this hotel leaves you wanting for nothing. The rooms are tastefully decorated and the attention to detail is what makes a stay here truly memorable. Those overlooking the sea provide stunning sunset views. It’s also a great place to snack or dine, with coffee and cocktails on the Mokka Diving terrace, fine dining at Essence (see The Maltese islands are perfect for diving enthusiasts, having p96) and so much more. recently been voted the third best diving destination in the world Golden Bay, Mellieha (2356 1000, in an international Diver Magazine poll. Maltese waters are warm and www.radissonblu.com/ calm, and offer superb visibility and a variety of marine species, reefs goldensandsresort-malta). Rates and wrecks. (breakfast incl) €200-€450 single/ double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, Water sports V. Most beach clubs offer an array of fun water sports activities to enjoy, including banana rides, water skiing, paragliding, windModerate surfing and power boat trips.

Seabank Resort and Spa Activities and fun are the order of the day at this large hotel – daily animation for children and adults, volleyball pitches, a massive outdoor pool, a kids’ ‘jungle’ and crazy golf are just some of them.

There’s also free Wi-Fi and a dine-around concept that lets guests choose from Maltese, Asian, Brazilian and Mediterranean cuisines. The hotel is only available on a full-board basis, with a minimum stay of five nights in summer and three nights in winter.

It is just a kilometre away from the Gozo ferry and across the road from the island’s popular Mellieha beach.

Marfa Road, Mellieha Bay, Mellieha (2289 1000, www. seabankhotel.com). Rates (all inclusive) €139.50-€150 single; €186-€210 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Boathouse FP

Photo: viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

Gozo & Comino Overview and sightseeing 102 Where to eat 106 Where to drink 111 Shopping 111 Nightlife 112 Arts and entertainment 112 Where to stay 112

Photo: Ministry for Gozo

Gozo & Comino

Blue Hole, Dwejra

Island escape Smaller, greener and more laid-back than its sister island Malta, Gozo is a slice of paradise

I

f you fancy expanding your horizons just a little more while in Malta, why not take a day trip (or longer) over on the smaller islands of Gozo or Comino?

The ferry crossing to Gozo (www.gozochannel.com) takes around 25 minutes, but it provides quite an escape. So much so that it’s very popular with the Maltese, who flock here

on long weekends to spend lazy days on the beach or beside a swimming pool, and to enjoy the laid-back aura that Gozo is still lucky enough to possess.

There’s so much to love about Gozo – easily more slow-paced, green and traditional than Malta.

After all, it’s got ancient history, friendly smiles, beautiful beaches and delicious food, so time here should feature on every itinerary.

102 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

It’s a destination in its own right, despite only being 67sq km in size.

You’ll start exploring the island in picturesque Mgarr Harbour, that overlooks a small yacht marina, as you walk or drive up the main road to the rest of the island.

If at all possible, hire a car (or, perhaps, a quad bike!). Although the public transport on offer

is quite reliable, a car will give you the chance to explore at your own pace. With wheels of your own and a good map you can wander through the quaint winding roads that link different villages, stopping to admire every aspect that catches your attention. Alternatively, two new hop-on, hop-off bus routes also provide a flexible way to get around.

a few days (or months) each year for a relaxing break by the sea.

The promenade is dotted with bars and outdoor eateries, with some restaurants serving a wide selection of fresh fish.

The ferry will take you back to Malta in no time at all, but if you have some time to spare, stop at the Gleneagles Pub (see p111) for a drink and take in the views of the harbour one last time.

The trip will provide a picturesque view of Comino, the smallest of the islands that make up the Maltese archipelago, inhabited by just four people.

Highlights here include the breath-taking Blue Lagoon and the largest coastal tower built by the Knights of St John. The lagoon is completely overrun by day-trippers during the summer months, but it’s well worth the journey anyway and early risers can secure a good spot on the beach.

Churches St George’s Basilica This is one of Gozo’s most important churches from an architectural, artistic and religious perspective.

Covered in marble and aptly called the Marble Basilica, its artistic highlights include an 1838 statue of the patron saint, St George, sculpted in wood and beautiful paintings by various artists, including famous

to a peasant, Karmni Grima, in 1883.

In fact, the corridors behind the church are cluttered with offerings – from crutches and pictures of babies to walking sticks and bandages – from people who claim to have been miraculously cured, blessed or saved from death by the Madonna.

Opposite the basilica is an open-air St Mary’s Cathedral ‘Way of the Cross’, with 14 huge, Built entirely of local marble statues along the limestone, this is a winding Ghammar Hill. great example of The view at the top is Mediterranean breath-taking.

The recently launched baroque and it Gharb (2155 www.visitgozo.com is ideal dominates the 6187). Open 7amif you’re hoping to find out main square 7pm Mon-Sat; about the latest events and of the citadel.

6am-12.15pm, ideas for what to do and It is similar to 1.30-7pm Sun. where to stay during your Mdina Cathedral, Admission free. visit. You’ll also find an but on a smaller, interactive map. more modest scale, and was designed in 1697 by Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà. Artistically, the Folklore Museum statue detailing the patron saint’s This space documents Gozitan assumption into heaven is one domestic, rural and traditional ways of the highlights. The adjacent of life. The exhibits are displayed Cathedral Museum is also interesting, within a cluster of medieval houses with beautiful works of art and that belonged to wealthy families, ecclesiastical silverware on show. dating back to the 1500s, with rare Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat. architectural features with Sicilian Open 5am-8pm daily. Admission or Catalan influence. Exhibits relate free. to rural trades such as agriculture, stone-masonry and carpentry, as Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary well as to local crafts including laceThere’s something special about this making and weaving. The first floor church and people from across the hosts an exhibition of items relating world flock here to pray and leave to hobbies such as hunting and offerings of thanks for the Blessed modelling of miniature churches, and Virgin, who is said to have appeared is replete with religious accessories. baroque artist Mattia Preti. The church set a trend back in the day, as it was the first to have a statue of the patron saint; all others then followed suit.

St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 6377, www.stgeorge.org.mt). Open 5am-8pm daily. Admission free.

log on

Museums

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 105

Gozo & Comino

Most roads lead to the capital, Victoria or Rabat. The town was named after Queen Victoria but is still often referred to by its Semitic name, Rabat. Don’t let this confuse you though – they are one and the same. The heart of the capital is called itTokk, where market stalls sell everything from knitted jumpers and sunglasses to beach towels and traditional lace. As for a place to get away from it all, visit the capital’s beloved Villa Rundle Gardens, just down from the main square. Originally planted under British rule in 1914, this spot fell into neglect and has only now been shown the love it deserves.

It reopened in May 2012 and is a great space to relax away from the crowds. For a dose of history visit the newly opened IlHagar Museum, which charts the island’s religious past.

But that’s not all the capital has to offer. Look upwards towards the ancient fortified city or Cittadella, with its magnificent 360-degree views of the island.

Walk here to immerse yourself in history, with many of its narrow winding streets hiding a museum or building of historical significance. While you are there, make a quick pit-stop at Ta’ Rikardu for a traditional lunch of fresh bread dipped in olive oil and served with sun-dried tomatoes and cheeselets.

The world-famous Neolithic temples of Ggantija are a few minutes’ drive away from the capital on the outskirts of Xaghra, and are believed to have been built in 3,500 BC. Just beyond is the Ta’ Kola Windmill, constructed in the 18th century during the reign of Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena. Today, the old windmill is surrounded by a few colonial era bars and restaurants.

The legendary Calypso’s Cave is close by. It is sometimes off limits, but you can still enjoy the beautiful views of Ramla l-Hamra Bay, with its deep red sand and turquoise-coloured sea.

There are a number of other attractions around the island, such as Dwejra, famous for its sheer cliffs and the photogenic Azure Window. Its untamed beauty has made it the perfect setting for scenes in a number of epic films and TV productions such as ‘Troy’, starring Brad Pitt, and HBO’s ‘Game of Thrones’, and the waters around here are very popular with scuba divers.

While in the area, walk down to the inland sea and hop onto a small boat for a short ride through the caves into the open sea, observing the enchanting Fungus Rock.

Gozo’s northern coast is home to the seaside resort of Marsalforn, buzzing with tourists and Maltese who settle there for

Melite Bernardo De Opuo Street, Citadel, Rabat (2156 2034, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €8; €5 concessions; free under-6s.

Gozo & Comino

Gozo Nature Museum Highlighting Gozo’s rich natural heritage, this 17th-century building started life as an inn, and was later a family shelter for those taking refuge from the aerial bombing in World War II. Today it is home to exhibits that document the island’s geology, minerals, human and animal evolution, marine life, insects, butterflies, moths and migratory birds. An important artefact is a small moonstone with a Maltese flag that was brought from the moon’s surface by the crew of Apollo II and donated to the Maltese people by President Nixon. Also look out for the ‘Malta Fungus’, which was highly prized by the Knights of St John, who used it for medicinal purposes.

Citadel, Rabat (2155 6153, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €8; €5 concessions; free under-6s.

Museum of Archaeology A must for history buffs, this was once the space where the Knights of St John would host their distinguished guests. It is now a repository for the main archaeological artefacts unearthed in Gozo and Comino over the years – the oldest and most interesting of which are pottery and relics from Ggantija Temples, and Phoenician artefacts including a burial urn. The museum also displays amphorae, anchors and jugs from the Roman period, and tombstones from the Middle Ages.

The ‘Xlendi room’ houses specimens lifted from underwater wrecks of Greek and Roman times recovered from Xlendi Bay in 1961.

Mdina Gate Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6144, www.heritagemalta. org). Open 9am-5pm daily.

Admission €8; €5 concessions; €4 children; free under-6s.

Places of interest Cittadella We suggest you start your day in Gozo here: wandering through the narrow streets and peering over the bastions at the beautiful view below. This remarkable site was first occupied in the Bronze Age, and later sheltered locals during the dark, dangerous nights when the island was attacked by invaders. Today, it is a mere shell of its former self but still an undeniable archaeological and architectural jewel with interesting museums, sites, alleys and crafts shops to discover. Keep your eyes peeled for the little details – holy niches, well-preserved Norman-style windows and arches, and intricate coats-of-arms atop historic houses and church buildings.

Rabat.

century. Today it displays tools of the milling trade and shows what the miller’s living quarters would have looked like. You can also see the internal and external mechanisms of the windmill, which are still in working order.

Bambina Street, Xaghra (2156 1071, www.heritagemalta.org).

Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €5; €3.50 concessions; free under-6s.

Where to eat

Critics’ choice Sights

1 2 3

Cittadella Spend a good hour touring the bastions of this walled city, stopping to visit the Museum of Archaeology, Folklore Museum, Gozo Nature Museum and Old Prison. See below.

Ggantija Temples Dating back more than 5,500 years this complex of megalithic temples is a designated World Heritage site and the earliest built structure on the Maltese islands. See below.

Dwejra and the Azure Window The photogenic Azure Window is a natural sight to behold. The surrounding sea is a great swimming, snorkelling and diving spot, and offers a starting point for trips through the caves on colourful fishing boats.

4 5

Ta’ Pinu Basilica This shrine to the Blessed Virgin of Ta’ Pinu stands close to the charming village of Gharb. See p105.

Blue Lagoon, Comino (pictured) Charter a yacht or take a ferry trip to one of the islands’ most beautiful bays – Comino’s fantastic Blue Lagoon, inhabited by just four people.

Ggantija Temples This is the world’s oldest freestanding building – yes, older than Stonehenge.

Composed of two temples with pairs of lobed chambers that share an outer perimeter wall, it was constructed with megaliths in around 3,600 BC. At the time, the temples would have looked like massive caves dominating the landscape for miles around. The roofs have long since collapsed but you can see the corbelling at the upper parts of the high walls that survive in a precarious semi-ruined state. Altars have also survived, and if you look closely at the limestone megaliths that frame the passageways you can detect the fading motifs of spirals and other decorative pitting. The footprint of this World Heritage Site is thought to be modelled on the ‘fat lady’ statues found within and today exhibited at the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta. Spend time in the visitors’ centre and browse the new interactive portal (www.heritagemalta.org/ collections/ggantija) to gain insight

106 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

into what this site means to the island and what it has meant throughout history.

Temples Street, Xaghra (2155 3194, www.heritagemalta.org). Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €5; €3.50 concessions; free under-6s.

The Old Prison This permanent exhibition of a medieval prison displays six cells and the largest collection of historical graffiti on the islands. The graffiti represent galleys, handprints, crosses, names, dates, games, animal and human figures, and provide a fascinating insight into the lives of those kept behind bars here.

Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2156 5988, www.heritagemalta. org). Open 9am-5pm daily.

Admission €8; €5 concessions; free under-6s.

Ta’ Kola Windmill This stone windmill was built in 1725, reconstructed in the 1780s, and was operational until the mid-20th

Gozo may not be the obvious choice for wild nights out but it is increasingly the ideal option for really, really good food. Even if you don’t have time for a full day on the island, follow in Maltese people’s footsteps and stop over for lunch or dinner.

Cafés Bellusa Café Villagers meet here to gossip or talk politics over a coffee and a pastizz (cheese or pea cake). Bellusa has been around for 50 odd years, offering hot and cold drinks, fresh omelettes and home-made burgers. It’s a great spot for watching the world go by after a walk through the charming narrow streets of the capital.

34 Independence Square, Rabat (2155 6243). Open 7am-7pm daily.

No credit cards.

French Ta’ Frenc Regarded as one of the best finedining restaurants anywhere on the Maltese islands, Ta’ Frenc is in a class of its own. Located in a converted 14th-century farmhouse, it sports countryside views of nearby Xaghra, Zebbug and the Marsalforn valley. The à la carte menu is varied and never disappoints. We love the ravioli with rabbit meat, liver and herbs, or with potato, peas and local goats’ cheese, followed by one of their famed meat or fish dishes – a real treat. There’s a great-value set menu for €30 per person or, for a more lavish choice, the chef’s luxury six-course menu for €60 per head.

As an added special touch, Ta’ Frenc also has wine made specifically for the restaurant by prestigious French houses, as well as own-label champagne.

Ghajn Damma Street, Xaghra (2155 3888, www.tafrencrestaurant. com). Open Apr-Dec noon-1.30pm, 7-9.30pm Wed-Mon; Jan-Mar noon1.30pm Fri-Sun; 7-10pm Fri, Sat. Main courses €19. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Maltese Café Jeffrey’s It was welcome news for foodies when the decision was made to keep Jeffrey’s open all year (except January) – locals love this place. The

spare ribs or perfectly cooked local rabbit – or a more elaborate meal, starting, we suggest, with the sizzling prawns followed by the fresh cheese ravioli. Finish off with their delicious warm chocolate cake.

St Joseph Square, Qala (2155 6242). Open 6-11pm Tue-Sun; also 11.30am-2.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €10-€16. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Ta’ Frenc. See p106.

Gozo & Comino

menu, which is lighter for lunch, includes local goats’ cheese fried in breadcrumbs, served with salad and dressed with balsamic vinaigrette and honey for starters, marrows stuffed with minced beef, herbs and onions, and topped with cheese for mains, and their staple almond cake for afters. For something more lavish, dig into the fresh lobster or the latest fish catch.

Gharb Street, Gharb (2156 1006, www.jerffreysgozorestaurant.com).

Open noon-3pm, 6-midnight MonSat. Closed Jan. Main courses €13€20. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Maxokk This is a must if you want a traditional taste of Gozo. Originally opened in the 1930s, this village hotspot is now run by its third generation of family bakers. It’s not the place for luxury, though. Instead, call ahead to order your pizza (we love the pepperoni and Maltese ftira varieties with local cheese or local sausage) and pick your order up 30 minutes later when it’s piping hot. Cooked in a traditional oven, it’s best enjoyed with a chilled local beer on the beach, or overlooking the stunning Nadur valley. Pizzas can also be bought frozen and heated up at home.

St James Street, Nadur (2155 0014, www.maxokkbakery.com).

Open 9am-7pm daily. Main courses €5.50. No credit cards.

Menqa l-Antika The focus here is on creating modern, Gozitan cuisine. Run by chef-patron Gordon Camilleri, the menu includes delicious flame-grilled Gozo cheese skewers to start with, baked local lamb for mains and bread pudding

with ice-cream to finish – and each is delicious. This is definitely the choice for visiting foodies keen for a taste of the Gozitan good life.

Marina Street, Marsalforn (2730 0309, www.menqalantika.com).

Open noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm TueSun. Main courses €13-€20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Rikardu Expect authentic, local food at this family-run spot that attracts throngs of people thanks to its fantastic reputation. Dine downstairs among the souvenirs and jars of local fare (such as delicious honey or packed cheeses), or upstairs on the terrace, and tuck into a traditional platter of local cheese, tomatoes, capers, onions and the very best Gozitan bread. If you’re still hungry, add a plate of home-made ravioli or rabbit cooked in wine and you’re in for something really scrumptious!

Fosos Street, Rabat (2155 5953).

Open 10am-7pm daily. Main courses €12. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Vestru Ta’ Vestru specialises in fantastic Maltese food and rarely disappoints thanks to its substantial portions and relatively low prices. Aside from the very reasonably priced pizzas (which aren’t on the menu at lunchtime), Ta’ Vestru also serves freshly made pasta (we love the home-made ravioli) and other specialities such as duck breast in raspberry sauce, barbecued ribs or boneless chicken drumsticks.

Particularly popular for dessert are the cassatella Siciliana and Snickers cake.

5 St Joseph Square, Qala (2155 9090). Open 11.30am-3pm Tue-

D Venue

108 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Sun; 6pm-midnight daily. Main courses €7-€18. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Mediterranean Beppe’s Expect fantastic Mediterranean cuisine with a fine-dining twist. As one of the many restaurants lining the Marsalforn seafront, this spot stands out for its focus on excellence.

You will be met by Franklin, who will relay chef Beppe’s specials and explain the menu – we were thrilled with our choice of fish antipasti and foie gras to start, followed by USDA dry-aged beef and fresh fish and, finally, warm chocolate fondant served with ice-cream. Wine lovers can choose to take their favourite bottle with them, and will be charged a very fair corkage fee.

Il-Menqa, Marsalforn (2750 0567, www.beppesrestaurant.com). Open noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Boathouse This is currently one of the most talked-about restaurants on the island – all thanks to its diverse menu and reliably good service. Xlendi, the bay area setting for this restaurant, is a lovely choice – especially for dinner when it is prettily lit. Start with the fish soup, arguably the tastiest we’ve ever tried, or the mixed shellfish platter with mussels, clams and prawns cooked in garlic, fresh herbs and wine. For mains, try the classic duck breast served in an orange and honey sauce or their special calamari, cooked in three ways. If possible, round things off with a cool glass of limoncello and a portion of one of their desserts.

Xlendi Bay (2156 9153, www. theboathousegozo.com). Open noon10.30pm daily. Main courses €13.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. D-Bar Famed for its local feel and good service, D-Bar is also known for its great pizzas, generous portions and busy atmosphere. Run by Twanny and Natalie, you can expect wholesome and generous portions, so come hungry! You can choose to have one-course meals – such as their tasty

D Venue There’s a real buzz about this smart bar/restaurant that overlooks the Xaghra parish church, and there’s regular entertainment from local and foreign bands. The food here is consistently good and offers a twist on the traditional. For starters try the traditional ravioli or tagliatelle with artichokes (made with fresh pasta) and the baby calamari. For mains we like the variety of grilled meats and fish or the roast local baby lamb.

The selection of desserts changes daily, but the Gozo-made ice-cream is always a good choice.

Xaghra Square, Xaghra (2156 6542, www.dvenuerestaurant.com).

Open noon-3pm, 6.30-11pm TueSun. Main courses €15-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ic-Cima Offering a unique view of Xlendi and beyond, it’s well-worth booking ahead to secure an outdoor table here.

The emphasis is on fish – though the specialities change every week. The aljotta (local fish soup) is a must, and we suggest following it with the fresh fish or rabbit stew. For dessert don’t miss a scoop of their ice-cream.

St Simon Street, Xlendi (2155 8407). Open noon-2.30pm, 6-11pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €19. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Il-Kartell So many Maltese make Kartell part of their Gozo ritual – heading here for a long lunch by the sea.

Set right by the water’s edge at the end of the Marsalforn promenade, this place is run by an enthusiastic team that guides you through the ever-changing specialities (call to check about extended dinner hours mid-season). Every meal starts with a complimentary serving of bruschetta, after which we recommend a light antipasto – a cold platter with a selection of locally grown produce like asparagus or artichokes, and continuing with the catch of the day – fish (especially lampuki if in season) or shellfish – though if you prefer, the local rabbit is also delicious. For more local delights, this time in liquid form, Kartell serves wines from the Ta’ Mena estate that grows grape varieties exclusive to Gozo. Here you will come across some tourists, many Maltese and perhaps even some celebrities as well-known faces like Sharon Stone, Peter O’Toole and tenor Joseph Calleja have walked in.

Marina Street, Marsalforn (2155 6918, www.il-kartellrestaurant.

com). Open Apr-Nov 11.30am3.30pm daily; 6-10.30pm Thur-Tue; Dec-Mar 11.30am-3.30pm, 6-10pm Thur-Tue. Main courses €13-€22.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Il-Panzier Located within the winding alleys of the capital, this very Sicilian ‘experience’ is run by Valentino and Alexandra. Expect the best from our neighbouring island – Sicilian wine, extra virgin olive oil, wild oregano, pistachios, ricotta and more. You’ll sit at tables made of Sicilian ceramic and lava stone from Mount Etna, and dine on genuine and tasty food. We recommend the Sicilian antipasto or the delicious pasta Panzier which features aubergines, tomatoes, basil and (Sicilian) olive oil, to start with, and the pork ‘al volcano’ for mains.

End things properly with a scoop of home-made ricotta ice-cream and a cool tot of limoncello. Dine indoors or out – with air conditioning even available outdoors!

39 Charity Street, Rabat (2155 9979, www.panzierrestgozo.com).

Open noon-2.30pm, 6.30-11pm daily. Main courses €14.50-€21.

Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Latini This family-run restaurant has plenty to offer (including great-value prices) and is one of the most popular choices in busy Marsalforn. Kickstart your meal with the scrummy whitebait fritters ravioli, followed by the roast local lamb or fresh fish.

If you’ve got room, don’t miss the chocolate orange fondant, made to order and served with ice-cream.

Il-Menqa, Marsalforn (2155 0950, www.latinirestaurant.com). Open 11am-2pm, 6-11pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €15-€21. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

G

ozo’s newest museum and cultural centre Il-Hagar – Heart of Gozo is an innovative space aimed at those interested in exploring the cultural transformation of the Gozitan community as shaped by its deeply-rooted religious traditions. The museum, the only one on the island built purposely as a museum (others are found in previously existing buildings that were transformed into museums), features beautiful works of art including paintings, statues and other religious items of great historical value. View the website for ongoing art exhibitions.

St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 7504, www.heartofgozo.org.mt).

Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission €5; €3 concessions.

Patrick’s Tmun If it’s a real foodie experience that you’re after, then head straight here.

Chef-patron Patrick has made this place his passion, and that reflects in everything from the decor and service to the exquisite menu. Start with fresh foie gras with brioche or ravioli filled with local peas and fresh corned beef. For mains try any cut of beef (the speciality here) or slow-cooked local pork belly braised in honey and calvados, and served with apple sauce and mash. To finish, tuck into the decadent strawberry cheesecake or the luscious chocolate fondant. And, for something a little different, book the chef’s tasting menu, which gives you the opportunity to try the very best of what Patrick has to offer (this must be booked 24hrs in advance and is not served over the weekend).

Europe Street, Rabat (2156 6667, www.patrickstmun.com). Open July-Sept 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; Oct-June 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-2.30pm Sun. Main courses €18. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Porto Vecchio Well-loved by locals, this spot is renowned for both its meat and fish dishes – cooked to perfection. It’s also very convenient if you’re only hopping to Gozo for lunch or dinner, as it’s located just a few minutes’ walk from the ferry – and don’t be put off by the ongoing road works nearby. There’s a varied menu of antipasto, soup, pasta, fresh fish

(which, trust us, melts in your mouth) and meat to be enjoyed, made from the freshest ingredients that are flown in especially from Italy. To make the most of this, start with the risotto with wild mushrooms and gorgonzola cheese, followed by the pan-seared rump of lamb or the mix of deepfried fish, squid and prawns served with tartar sauce. Leave room for the special flambéed crêpes suzette for a happy ending.

Martino Garces Street, Mgarr (2156 3317, www. portovecchiorestaurant.com). Open noon-3pm, 7-10pm Mon, Tue, ThurSat; noon-10pm Sun. Main courses €14-€19. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Qbajjar Restaurant Take a dip in the bay opposite before sitting down to dine at this pretty restaurant. Just a 15mins walk or short drive from Marsalforn Bay, this place is always overflowing with its faithful following of locals and visitors. The all-day kitchen prepares favourites such as pasta with rabbit sauce and fish soup, as well as complimentary crunchy focaccia. All is served on the extensive terrace or in the welcoming indoors. A children’s menu is also available.

23 Qbajjar Road, Marsalforn (2155 1124, www.qbajjarrestaurant.com).

Open June-Sept 10am-11pm daily.

Closed Tue Oct-May. Main courses €15-€22. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Rew Rew This is a unique, casual, fun and authentic lunchtime experience not to be missed – and you can even pull up by boat if you’ve got one. Watch as the team rustles up your lunch before your very eyes – usually a fish-based meal of mussels and baby prawns to start with, followed by grilled fish or, for meat-eaters, a juicy steak accompanied by chips and salad.

Wrap things up with a portion of tiramisu or the home-made almond cake it’s renowned for. Prices are no longer on the cheap side.

Mgarr ix-Xini (7985 4007). Open Mar-Nov Restaurant noon-4pm daily; Bar 10.30am-7pm daily.

Main courses €16-€20. No credit cards.

Ristorante Arzella Watch the waves crash on the rocks just beyond the indoor/outdoor terrace at this charming restaurant.

The unique setting and excellently cooked fare are Arzella’s trademark qualities. With the sea as the protagonist, it is no wonder that fresh fish and seafood are the specialities here, whether they’re mixed with pasta or served alone. The fish platter though – it’s put together according to your preferences and the chef’s recommendations – deserves a special mention as it’s fresh and exquisite.

We also love the trio of calamari: stuffed, fried and pan-cooked, and the sautéed king prawns, followed by one of the delightful desserts.

Ghar Qawqla Street, Marsalforn (2155 4662, www.ristorantearzella. com). Open 11am-4pm daily; 6pmmidnight Wed-Mon. Main courses €12-€21. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Sicilia Bella If possible, snag a table on the terrace of this authentically Sicilian eatery so you can enjoy the view of the bay, and get ready to dig into the sizeable portions. Start with pasta with sea urchins or lobster or (our favourite) spaghetti with clams, followed by steamed fish of the day or fritto misto (delicately breaded and fried prawns and calamari rings). For dessert don’t miss the ultimate Sicilian dessert – pastry cases stuffed with sweet ricotta.

Manuel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 3588). Open 7-11pm TueSun; also 1-3pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €12.50-€18. Credit MC, V. Stonecrab Stonecrab, another of the dinky restaurants along the Xlendi promenade, enjoys gorgeous views of the bay and cliffs. Pick the table of your choice and dine on ravioli with crab and a rosé sauce to start with, followed by stuffed calamari served with chips and salad, or traditionally cooked rabbit. It’s then time for the exquisite strawberry cheesecake or delectable profiteroles.

Xlendi Bay (2155 6400, www. thestonecrab.com). Open Nov-Jan

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 109

Gozo & Comino

It-Tmun Mgarr A short walk away from Mgarr Harbour, you can’t beat a meal here.

Run by formidable couple, Leli and Jane Buttigieg, and their son Paul, this team has been setting foodie standards on the island for over 25 years. The specials change daily and the menu includes great pasta dishes and fresh fish (grilled or al cartoccio). To start, we love Tmun’s famous ‘bouillabaisse for two’ or the signature lobster and pistachio fagottino pasta, followed by the fresh wild local fish of the day (weather permitting) or the herb-crusted rack of lamb. Finish with Jane’s signature cherry cheesecake or the Valrhona chocolate orgasm – a 66 per cent dark chocolate, hazelnut and almond praline ganache. The wine list is extensive, with a good selection of both local and imported wine, and there’s also a great choice of vegan, low-fat and gluten-free options.

Martinu Garces Street, Mgarr (2156 6276, www.tmunmgarr.com).

Open noon-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €15-€23.

Credit AmEx, MC, V.

recommended The all-new Il-Hagar – Heart of Gozo

T

he Grand Hotel overlooks the picturesque Mgarr Harbour and enjoys spectacular views of the Comino and Malta adding a unique touch to the excellent hospitality offered at the hotel. En-suite accommodation is predominantly sea view.

All 110 rooms are air-conditioned and equipped with all services and amenities. Breakfast is served Buffet in the Migiarro Restaurant, which also offers a wide variety of Thai, Chinese and Malaysian dishes. The Roof Top Restaurant enjoys the magnificent harbour view and is open on alternate days with live music in the evenings.

Grand Hotel, Mgarr Gozo, GSM 9026, Malta Tel: (+356) 21563840 • Fax: (+356) 21559744 • info@grandhotelmalta.com

Visit our website to book your stay NOW

Workshop - Shop 1 – Crafts Village, St Lawrence. – GRB 4000, Gozo, Malta. – Tel: (+356) 2155 3722

Office: Abraham Farmhouses, Gozitano Complex, Xewkija, Gozo - Malta.

Tel: +356 21563231 / +356 21559981 / +356 21560952 • Mob: +356 99476165 E-mail: info@abrahamgozofarmhouses.com

www.abrahamgozofarmhouses.com

for attracting younger crowds on weekends and summer evenings, so it’s the ideal spot to hang out to meet new people.

St George’s Square, Rabat (7947 3536). Open 8am-2am Mon-Thur; 8am-4am Fri-Sun. Credit MC, V. La Caverna With live music on select nights, this bar is the ideal place to spend an evening, or to enjoy a pre/post dinner drink. Taking its name from ‘the cave of the old man in Gozo’ story, which dates back to 1583 when numerous wine presses were discovered in Mgarr ix-Xini, there are over 300 wines to choose from. Thankfully, a sommelier is on-hand to guide you to the perfect choice.

Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort, San Lawrenz (2211 0000). Open 9pm-1am Thur-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

La Caverna

10am-11.30pm Wed-Mon; 6.3011.30pm Tue. Main courses €20.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Ta’ Karolina Enjoy a complimentary helping of (very) fresh bruschetta before digging into one of the specials served at this popular waterfront restaurant.

Pizza is their forte, but there’s a great choice, including fish-filled ravioli or spaghetti with prawns to start with, and black Angus or veal ribeye served with cranberry sauce and a touch of chilli for mains. Round things off with one of the home-made desserts and a nightcap while taking in the view. A very good-value option.

Xlendi Bay (2155 9675). Open 11.30am-3pm, 6.30-11pm daily.

Main courses €6-€20. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Xixi With burnt orange walls and a draped ceiling this place looks authentic, and the food tastes authentic too! The menu is divided into seafood, chicken, duck, beef, pork and, for the more adventurous, kangaroo. Our favourites include the pork belly cooked with herbs and garlic, and the stir-fried king prawns with seasonal vegetables.

8 September Street, Xaghra (2155 0555, www.gozo.com/xixi). Open 6.30-10.30pm daily; also noon1.30pm Sun. Main courses €9-€14.

Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Ta’ Pennellu Run by dedicated chef (and artist!)

Anthony, this waterfront restaurant has a special edge to it. Kick-start your meal with the fresh mussels cooked in garlic, fresh herbs and Italian olive oil, followed by the catch of the day or flambéd Argentinian beef, which is aged on site. As a treat, enjoy the on-the-house bruschetta and Gozo cheese to start, and the complimentary drink to end your meal.

Marina Street, Marsalforn (2155 9730, www.pennellu.com). Open

oriental

Where to drink There is a wonderful drinking culture to be enjoyed in Gozo, courtesy of its charming wine bars. Pull up a chair, order a glass of your favourite tipple and enjoy an evening of conversation – ideally under the stars!

Café Jubilee Whether for an early mug of coffee, afternoon cup of tea or after-theatre drink, this is a very popular spot for good reason. It’s a great place to eat, drink and just sit – enjoying the

mad array of trinkets and pictures indoors, or the busy square outdoors.

Food choices include nanna’s homemade ravioli, Mediterranean chicken pasta and lampuki pie, with the Jubilee banana split for afters.

8 Independence Square, Rabat (2155 8921, www.cafejubilee.com).

Open 8am-1am daily. Credit DC, MC, V. Gleneagles Bar Nothing much changes at this bar overlooking Mgarr Harbour. It’s the place to watch the ferries come and go, and has been here for decades (it’s been in the same family for 300 years). The bar became a legend after AJ Quinnell, the author of ‘Man on Fire’, made it the base of his star character, Creasy. This is your typical harbour bar, with a balcony that overlooks the bobbing, colourful fishing boats. Just sit back with your beer, speciality whisky or even proprietor Anthony’s ‘Gleneagles Special’ cocktail, and enjoy the splendid sight of the setting sun.

10 Victory Street, Mgarr (2155 6543). Open 2.30pm-midnight daily. No credit cards.

The Grapes This is what island nightlife is all about – one of Gozo’s most charming bars makes a lovely place for a snack, meal or simply drinks at any time of day or night. It recently extended to a pastizzerija opposite too, with yummy nibbles. Grapes is known

Shopping Many Maltese look forward to the Gozitan shopping experience – a blend of shopping malls and cute backstreet boutiques. The daily market in the capital’s main square is also popular for souvenirs and trinkets.

Arcades and Shopping complexes Arkadia Commercial Centre With all sorts of brands under one roof, including a food store, Arkadia is a must if you fancy a spot of retail therapy. The lower floor holds a supermarket, whereas the upper floors display items by various fashion labels. There are also clothes for children, underwear, shoes, toys, audio-visual equipment, homeware and a hair-dressing salon. Free parking facilities are available on site and McDonald’s is located on the ground floor.

Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat (2210 3000, www.arkadia.com.mt).

Open Commercial Centre 9am-8pm daily; Foodstore 8am-8pm daily.

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 111

Gozo & Comino

10.30am-4pm daily; Feb-May 10.30am-midnight Sat; June-Oct 10.30am-midnight daily. Main courses €17. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Piùtrentanove Lounge Bar Italian proprietors, Davide and Filippo, have brought a little bit of Tuscany to Gozo in the form of this hip sea-facing bar. It’s full of fun and not the choice if you want a quiet night out! The laid-back atmosphere is brilliant – with the latest sports or international events showing on the big screen. And in true Italian style, it’s not just the drinks that attract the crowds, but also the menu – tasty thin-crusted pizza, pasta, burgers and platters. And as you sip your drink, bite-sized items like canapés, focaccia and, if you’re lucky, small portions of pasta are offered complimentary.

65 Marina Street, Marsalforn (2720 1515, www.piutrentanovebar. com). Open June-Sept 3pm-4am daily; Oct-May 1pm-2am daily.

Closed Jan, Feb. Credit MC, V.

Gozo & Comino

It-Tmun Mgarr. See p109.

The Duke Shopping Mall This was the second major mall to open its doors in Gozo, and it offers great fashion brands. You can also enjoy a coffee at the bustling Connections Café and Bistro or relax at the Salus well-being spa. And if it’s groceries you are after, then The Duke Foodstore, in the basement, is your answer – just bear in mind that it closes earlier on Sundays during wintertime.

Republic Street, Rabat (2155 8000, www.thedukegozo.com). Open Commercial Centre 9am-7pm MonSat; 10am-1pm Sun; Foodstore 8am-8pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Crafts Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village This little ‘village’ brings together a cluster of artisan workshops producing and selling locally crafted goods such as candles, ceramics, pottery, lace, leather, local souvenirs, brassware and blown glass. The choice is wide and the quality is good.

Frangisk Portelli Street, San Lawrenz. Open 9.30am-5pm daily.

Nightlife Gozo is best known as the island you head to to get away from it all – but don’t be put off completely if wild nights are more your thing. The summer season is particularly packed with events, while high-profile, random club nights dot the calendar all year round.

La Grotta Recognised as one of Europe’s finest outdoor clubs, this thriving hotspot overlooks Xlendi valley and provides stunning views while you club under the stars. It has attracted big names including Sonique, DJ Molella, David Guetta, Ritchie Hawtin (Plastikman),

Alex Gaudino and Mr C (The Shamen), as well as top local talent.

Although Grotta is best known for its summer parties, its indoor club and lounge café are open throughout the year and entrance is free.

Xlendi (2155 1149). Open end May-mid Oct 10pm-4am Fri, Sat. Admission €7.

Arts and entertainment There’s more going on in Gozo than you may expect, including regular festivals and cultural activities. Opera-lovers will also appreciate the island’s two large theatres, regularly showcasing local and international talent.

Sports and leisure Gozo Sports Complex This is the main destination for sporting endeavours in Gozo. And, although you can’t buy day passes, monthly memberships are very reasonable. There is a good gym and the best basketball court on the islands, as well as squash, tennis, badminton and volleyball courts (€4 per session, to be booked in advance), an indoor climbing frame and fitness courses that include pilates and aerobics for people of all ages.

Europe Street, Rabat (2215 6996).

Open 8.30am-9pm Mon-Fri; 8.30am-5.30pm Sat; 8.30am4.30pm Sun. theatre Astra Theatre Opera enthusiasts look forward to the high-calibre, annual operatic event staged here – this year Giuseppe Verdi’s Otello will be performed on 24 and 26 October, and will likely be a highlight of the calendar. This

112 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

theatre is well-known for its concerts and operas, and has hosted local and international stars, including celebrated Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja. On presentation of a student card, students may watch a show for €10 on the last Thursday of the month but bookings are only accepted via phone or email. The theatre spearheads the annual Festival Mediterranea, as well as numerous other cultural events.

9 Republic Street, Rabat (2155 0985, www.teatruastra.com).

Tickets €50-€70. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Aurora Theatre Falstaff, by Giuseppi Verdi, staged on 12 October 2013, will be the key event of this theatre’s dynamic calendar.

It is known for its international touring shows between November and May, mostly in the genres of drama and opera. It also stages other performances such as ballet. Shows are sporadic, so check the website for updated information.

Republic Street, Rabat (2156 2974, info@leone.org.mt). Box office 7.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; 8am-noon Sun. Tickets €5-€80. No credit cards.

site. The recently upgraded rooms enjoy a fresh blue and white colour scheme, and amenities include a private terrace and sea or country views. This hotel, set in extensive grounds, is splendidly isolated and its guests have access to an idyllic private rocky beach. The spa is also lovely, with a lagoon-type ‘indooroutdoor’ pool, that’s additional to the two outdoor pools elsewhere in the grounds. The hotel’s Carrubo Restaurant is open all year round and offers a good range of fare, while the main bar terrace is also open for lunch, serving grills and salads.

Sannat (2219 1000, www. tacenchotel.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €128 single; €186 double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Whether for a couple of days or a relaxing week (or more), Gozo offers some wonderful accommodation options, helping you to make the most of sightseeing, swimming, diving, trekking, wining and dining.

Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort This hotel is an exclusive hideaway resort, surrounded by 30,000sqm of gardens. Its large swimming pool, in the centre of the garden, is the main attraction – complete with palm trees and an idyllic setting. The spa recently added a hammam, and there is a great array of other treatments on offer too. Other amenities include a heated indoor pool, gym, tennis and squash courts, as well as work-out sessions in pilates, yoga, aquaerobics, guided walks and cycling tours. The Kempinski also supplies its renowned restaurants with fresh produce from its organic garden – with delicious results!

Rokon Street, San Lawrenz (2211 0000, www.kempinski.com/gozo).

Rates (incl breakfast) €185 single; €221 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

expensive

Moderate

Hotel Ta’ Cenc and Spa This hotel is stunning, indoors and out, and really helps you to make the most of the beautiful natural surroundings of this Natura 2000

Grand Hotel Watch the ferry come and go from a sea-view room at this value-for-money hotel. There’s a good buffet-style breakfast, friendly, knowledgeable

Where to stay

Mediterranean Luxury with a touch of European flair!

A tranquil countryside hotel, just a ferry ride away from the sister Island of Malta... enter a world of Mediterranean’s best-kept secret and home to the hide-away countryside resort Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, Gozo.

Indulge in luxurious treatments at Kempinski The Spa, the multi-award winning spa with an Oriental Hammam area and an authentic Ayurveda Center.

“Mediterranean’s Leading Spa Resort” & “Malta’s Leading Spa Resort” 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012

T. +356 2211 0000

reservation.sanlawrenz@kempinski.com

www.kempinski.com/gozo

located (a five-10-mins walk from Rabat, though a good distance from the sea), it is within a complex comprising a bustling café, a fun area for kids and a bowling alley, and offers complimentary Wi-Fi in the common areas. The onsite restaurant serves good local and Mediterranean cuisine, and a full English and continental breakfast. The rooms are modern, with well-sized bathrooms, TV, minibar, hairdryer and air-con.

The price varies according to the view and the choice is between an internal room, a street view and a country view (and the sea beyond).

Europe Street, Rabat (2210 8000, www.downtown.com.mt). Rates (incl breakfast) €45 single; €68€82 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Electra Hotel Thirteen en suite rooms have already been converted within this little hotel – a good choice if you’re on a budget. It is comfortable, homely and clean. One of the draws is the hotel’s restaurant, which is located very close to the beach and serves food all day.

Valley Road, Marsalforn (2155 6196, www.electraguesthouse.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €26 single; €50 double. No credit cards.

homes with history

Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort. See p112.

staff and a large swimming pool, while rooms are pleasant, spacious and bright with satellite TV, air-con, en suite bathrooms and complimentary Wi-Fi in some parts.

We also love the rooftop bar and restaurant – the ideal place to watch the sun set. The hotel operates a courtesy bus to Ramla and Hondoq ir-Rummien Bays in the summer months, and to Rabat throughout the year. Highly recommended.

Mgarr Harbour (2156 3840, www. grandhotelmalta.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €70 single; €100 double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Hotel Calypso It’s worth paying a little extra for a sea-view room at this seafront spot.

The pretty rooms – decorated in a soothing nautical theme – include a spotless en suite bathroom, balcony, TV/radio, fridge bar, ceiling fan, air-con and hairdryer, while complimentary Wi-Fi is available in parts of the hotel. The well-sized pool and the extensive, smart deck

area are a league above the pool areas offered by other hotels within its category. The Sunday buffet/barbecue is frequented by locals, while the hotel’s Tal-Murella Café serves genuine Neapolitan pizza cooked in the only authentic wood-fire oven in Gozo.

Marsalforn Bay (2156 2000, www. hotelcalypsogozo.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €62-€72.50 single; €90€111 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hotel Xlendi Resort and Spa The breath-taking views of Xlendi bay serve as a romantic backdrop for visitors to this hotel. There’s a choice of rooms on offer – standard or sea view deluxe rooms and one, two or three bedroom self-catering apartments. Facilities include air-con and TV, while Wi-Fi is free across the property, and there’s an indoor and outdoor pool, spa and wellness centre, medical clinic, sun terrace, restaurant and gym. A good-value choice.

St Simon Street, Xlendi (2155

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 115

Gozo & Comino

Maria Giovanna Guesthouse The common areas of this dinky guest house were revamped this year, giving it a fresh new feel. It is close to the As an alternative form of beach, with accommodation, you could rent a 15 en suite typical house of character. bedrooms Farmhouses in rural Gozo are very and facilities popular with the Maltese, and tourists including have come to love them too. free Wi-Fi Luxurious amenities are available if throughout, you want them – some houses air-con and a have pools, saunas and cosy common unique design features.

3719, www. living room. Run by hotelxlendi.com). Rates twin sisters Anna and (incl breakfast) €60 single; Sonia, highlights include the €100 double. Credit MC, V. home-made breakfast served every morning and the fact that there is San Andrea no curfew. If you are hungry, homeA great choice in the three-star made food is served on request. category, this quaint yet modern, 41 Rabat Road, Marsalforn (2155 family-run hotel is a good-value 3630, www.tamariagozo.com). option for seafront accommodation.

Rates (incl breakfast) €50 single; 12 of its 28 twin bedrooms overlook €75-€85 double. No credit cards.

Xlendi Bay, with facilities that include San Antonio Guesthouse free Wi-Fi, a TV area and air-con.

All of the 13 large rooms at this There’s a relaxing terrace, while the guesthouse have a terrace or balcony, in-house restaurant, Zafiro, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a air-con and en suite bathrooms. good menu of Mediterranean cuisine. Offering free Wi-Fi and a private garden to enjoy, this small guesthouse Xlendi Promenade, Xlendi (2156 is a very welcoming place to stay – 5555, www.hotelsanandrea.com).

Rates (half board) €67 single; €106 surrounded by mature trees and a double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, swimming pool. It is pleasingly ecoMC, V. friendly, with photovoltaic panels on the roof, so you can feel green while Cheap you relax.

Tower Street, Xlendi (2156 3555, Downtown Hotel www.clubgozo.com.mt). Rates (incl As the only hotel in the capital, breakfast) €40 single; €75 double.

Credit MC, V. Downtown is exactly that. Centrally

Resources Banks Banks are normally open between 8.30am and 1.30pm from Monday to Thursday, between 8.30am and 3.30pm on Friday and until noon on Saturday.

Some banks open for longer hours, but summer hours are shorter. currency exchange Malta adopted the euro on January 1 2008. International bankcards are accepted and foreign currency is easily exchanged. Banks, Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) and exchange bureaux can be found all over the islands.

Casinos Malta has several excellent casinos.

Admission requires an identity card or passport. Foreign nationals must be 18 years old to enter. The casinos also offer a choice of cuisines from international fare to Mediterranean specialities at their restaurants.

Report any incident as soon as possible to the police. The emergency number to call is 112 and the Police General Headquarters are in Floriana (2122 4001). Below is a list of some of the police stations.

Mosta Police Station (2141 4106).

Qawra Police Station (2294 3610).

Rabat (Gozo) Headquarters (2156 2040).

Sliema District Headquarters (2133 2282).

St Julian’s Police Station (2137 1694).

Disabled Both the government and the private sector are constantly working towards improving ‘access for all’ to museums, attractions, cultural venues, and the historic centres of towns and villages.

Visitors may contact the Malta Tourism Authority (2291 5000, www.visitmalta. com) to enquire whether a particular site or venue has easy access or facilities for the disabled. If assistance is required at the airport, the airline must be notified before the flight. The airline will inform the Malta International Airport (MIA) directly. The MIA provides assistance both airside and landside.

Electricity The electrical supply is 230 volts, 50 hertz. The three-pin rectangular plug system is used, as in Britain.

Embassies British High Commission Whitehall Mansions, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex (2323 0000, www.ukinmalta.fco.gov.uk/en). Open 8.30am-noon, 12.30-3pm Mon-Fri. French Embassy 130 Melita Street, Valletta (2248 0600, www.ambafrance-mt.org). Open 9am1pm, 2-4pm Mon-Fri. German Embassy Il-Pjazzetta, Entrance B, 1st floor, Tower Road, Sliema (2260 4000, www. valletta.diplo.de). Open 9am-noon MonWed, Fri; also 1.15-4.15pm Wed. Italian Embassy 5 Vilhena Street, Floriana (2123 3157, www.amblavalletta.esteri.it). Open 9.30am-noon Mon-Fri; 1-3pm Thur.

Health Malta has an excellent health care service. Private and public hospitals are supported by a regional network of health centres.Visitors are advised to take out a personal medical insurance policy, particularly if they are not EU nationals. EU, EEA and Swiss nationals holding the European Health Insurance Card have access to Malta’s public healthcare and are entitled to free public medical and hospital care in both Malta and Gozo. Malta also has a reciprocal health agreement with Australia. Australians visiting the islands for no longer than one month are entitled to free medical and hospital care in both Malta and Gozo. Visitors receiving special medical treatment should bring a medical prescription or a letter of introduction from their family doctor in case they need to purchase particular medicines. accidents and emergencies For any emergency services dial 112.

The public general hospitals have 24-hour accident and emergency departments.

chemists Chemists are found throughout the islands and are open during normal shopping hours. On Sundays they operate on a roster from 9am to 12.30pm in Malta and from 7.30am to 11am in Gozo. Details of the roster are available in the local Sunday newspapers.

Dentists A full list of dentists is found in the Yellow Pages under ‘Dental surgeons’.

The public hospitals in Malta and Gozo provide emergency dental services for free to EU and EEA nationals holding the European Health Insurance Card.

Doctors A list of doctors is available within the Yellow Pages under ‘Clinics-Private’ and ‘Hospitals-Private’. Consultations cost around €25. private hospitals St James Hospital George Borg Olivier Street, Sliema (2329 1000, www.stjameshospital.com).

St Mark Health Clinic Clarence Street, Msida (2123 9488). public hospitals Mater Dei Hospital Birkirkara Bypass, Birkirkara (2545 0000, www.ehealth.gov.mt Gozo General Hospital Rabat, Gozo (2156 1600).

STDs The Genito-Urinary Clinic provides free professional help and advice if you are suffering from a genito-urinary condition, or if you are in doubt. The clinic provides confidential diagnosis and treatment of sexually transmitted infections and related conditions (2122 7981).

Lost luggage In case of any lost luggage you should immediately get in touch with your airline. If you are flying with Air Malta call 2369 6135.

Museums and sites Public museums and sites generally have the following daily opening hours: 9am-5pm. Museums and sites are closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, New Year’s Day and Good Friday. Last admission is 15-30mins before closing time.

Postal services Most towns and villages have post or sub-post offices. Branch post offices in Malta and Gozo are open between 7.30am and 12.45pm from Monday to Saturday. Sub-post offices are open between 8am and 1pm, and 4pm and 6pm from Monday to Friday and between 8am and 1pm on Saturday.

Stamps can be bought from post offices, local newsagents, souvenir shops and hotels.

Public holidays Malta has a considerable number of public holidays: 1 January – New Year’s Day 10 February – St Paul’s Shipwreck 19 March – The Feast of St Joseph 31 March – Freedom Day March/April (date changes) – Good Friday 1 May – Labour Day 7 June – Sette Giugno 29 June – St Peter and St Paul (L-Imnarja) 15 August – The Assumption of Our Lady (Santa Marija) 8 September – Our Lady of Victories 21 September – Independence Day 8 December – Immaculate Conception 13 December – Republic Day 25 December – Christmas Day

Religion Most Maltese are Catholic, but other religious denominations are also represented. There are small Anglican, Church of Scotland, Greek Orthodox, Jewish, Methodist and Muslim communities. Church services are held by the various denominations.

Shops Shops are normally open between 9am and 1pm, and between 4pm and 7pm altough increasingly shops are opening all day.

In tourist areas many shops remain open till 10pm. Shops are normally closed on Sundays and public holidays.

Everyday an open-air market is set up in Valletta. On Sunday mornings, markets are also organised in most towns or villages. The largest is in Valletta and is held every Sunday morning, while the most picturesque is in Marsaxlokk.

Smoking No smoking is allowed in any entertainment establishment, including bars and restaurants, unless there is a

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 117

Resources

Crime

The Commission for the Disabled A governmental organisation dedicated to improving the lives of disabled people on the Maltese islands provides information on how best to get around and on other related organisations.

Bugeja Institute, Braille Street, Sta Venera (2148 7789/fax 2148 4609/www.knpd. org).

designated smoking area. Smoking in public places is illegal and carries hefty fines. Smoking is allowed at outdoor venues.

Swimming The Maltese coastal waters are generally clean and safe for swimming as there are no tides. Some bays are exposed to north and north-easterly winds that produce some strong undercurrents at times. Ghajn Tuffieha Bay and Golden Bay areas can be potentially dangerous – a red flag flies to indicate when bathing should be restricted to only the innermost, shallow waters. sunbathing The Maltese archipelago lies virtually at the centre of the Mediterranean and has a latitude more southern than that of northern Tunisia. You are therefore advised to take precautions to ensure you avoid over-exposure to the sun.

Children and especially babies need extra protection from the sun. If you are sunbathing, it is advisable to avoid the strongest sunlight between 11am and 4pm in peak summer months.

Resources Resources

Telephones and internet Telecommunications operator Go provides international telecommunication, telex, fax and internet access at its offices in St George’s Bay, St Julian’s. Its office in South Street, Valletta provides these services during office hours from Monday to Friday. The same services, as well as the sale of telecards, are available from 8am to 10pm at Go’s offices in Sliema, St Paul’s Bay, B’Kara, Balzan and Malta International Airport.

Go offers a cheap international voice service for calls made to the UK, USA, Australia, Germany and other countries.

Rates start from €0.35 per minute. To make use of this service dial 1021 before the country code and telephone number, from Go lines and payphones. Internet cafés are scattered across the islands.

Time difference Malta is on Central European Time (CET), which is one hour ahead of GMT in winter and two hours ahead between the last Sunday in March and the last Sunday in October. Malta is six hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (EST) in winter and seven hours ahead between the last Sunday in March and the last Sunday in October.

Tipping Gratuities are usually in the region of 10-15 per cent as in most European countries. As a rule of thumb: taxi drivers – not expected, but up to 10 per cent; porters – €0.25-€0.35 per piece of luggage; restaurants, unless a service charge is added to the bill, 10 per cent.

Tourist information Malta Tourism Authority-run offices may be found at: 229 Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street, Valletta (2291 5440). Open 9am5.30pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Pinto Wharf, Valletta Waterfront,

Valletta (2122 0633). Open only when cruise liners are in port.

Malta International Airport, Arrivals Lounge, Luqa (2369 6073). Open 10am-9pm daily.

Iz-Zjara tal-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II – 26 ta’ Mejju 1990 Square, Mellieha (2152 4666). Open 9am-1pm Mon-Sat. Torre dello Standardo, St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 4480). Open 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Inquisitor’s Palace, Main Gate Street, Vittoriosa (2180 0145). Open 9am5.30pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. 17 Independence Square, Rabat, Gozo (2291 5452). Open 9am-5.30pm MonSat; 9am-1pm Sun.

Getting around

For further information go to www. visitmalta.com/en/info-offices

Useful addresses Ministry of Foreign Affairs Palazzo Parisio, Merchants Street, Valletta (2124 2191).

Air Malta Head Office Air Malta plc, Head Office, Luqa (2169 0890/2122 9990).

Malta Tourism Authority Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street, Valletta (2291 5000).

Malta Competition and Consumer Affairs Authority Mizzi House, National Road, Blata l-Bajda (2395 2000).

Useful and emergency numbers 00356 International code 112 Emergency services 1182 Directory enquiries 1152 Overseas operator 195 Time check 112 Ambulance 112 Fire brigade 2122 4001 Police 2125 0221 Consumer protection 2122 4781 Lost property 5230 2021 Weather forecast (Rate per call ¤1) For further information go to www.new. visitmalta.com/en/useful-numbers

Websites www.airmalta.com Timetable, passenger information and online booking and check-in of Air Malta flights. www.gozochannel.com Timetable and information on the Malta-Gozo ferry. www.heritagemalta.org All you need to know about Malta and Gozo’s heritage sites and museums entrusted to the government’s national heritage agency. www.maltairport.com Arrivals, departures, passenger services and weather conditions. www.go.com.mt Online telephone directory. www.transport.gov.mt Official website of the local transport authority, providing information on the islands’ transport system. www.timeout.com Online city and country guides. www.timesofmalta.com The Times of Malta online. www.visitmalta.com General information on Malta and an updated calendar of events compiled by the Malta Tourism Authority. www.maltaweather.com Up to fiveday accurate weather forecasts.

118 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14

Arriving and leaving by air All flights arrive at Malta International Airport (2124 9600/www.maltairport. com). The Maltese islands are only a few hours away from major European cities by air. The national airline, Air Malta, operates flights to and from all the major airports in Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. Other international low-cost carriers operate regular scheduled flights to and from Malta.

Airline contacts Air Malta 2166 2211, www.airmalta.com British Airways www.britishairways.com Alitalia 2132 2992, www.alitalia.com Emirates 2557 7255, www.emirates.com Lufthansa 2125 2020, www.lufthansa.com Ryanair www.ryanair.com Vueling www.vueling.com easyJet www.easyjet.com Scandinavian SAS www.flysas.com Swiss International Airlines www.swiss. com Egypt Air www.egyptair.com

by sea A regular ferry and catamaran service links several Italian ports to Valletta. A number of shipping lines serve some Mediterranean ports as well.

Shipping line contacts SMS Travel and Tourism www.sms. com.mt Sullivan Maritime 2125 1564, www.sullivanmaritime.com.mt Virtu Ferries 2123 2522, www.virtuferries.com

Flight enquiries and schedules The Malta International Airport has a 24hr flight enquiry service (5004 3333, www.maltairport.com). The online schedules are updated every 5mins.

Internal transport The public transport network of buses covers nearly all the islands. Car hire rates in Malta are good value. You can also enjoy a relaxing boat trip by taking a harbour cruise or cross between Valletta and Sliema at half hourly intervals. For island hopping to Gozo,

you can choose between taking the Gozo ferry or water taxi. buses Malta’s bus service is operated by the European bus and train operator, Arriva. The service runs daily between approximately 5.30am and 11pm, while night buses operate in some areas after this time.

The hub is Valletta, with all routes numbered between 1 and 91 serving the capital, and other services offering connections to places of interest, beaches, hotels and nightlife. Timetable leaflets are available for all routes, as well as a free holiday bus map highlighting tourist-specific services.

The service runs six express routes (X1, X2, X3, X4, X5 and X7) to various localities from the airport, serving also the Gozo ferry terminal.

Different types of tickets are available from several points of sale: ticket machines at bus stations; ticket offices and/or street ticket sellers at the airport, Valletta, Bugibba, Sliema and Rabat (Gozo) bus stations as well as other localities; on board; authorised resellers including hotels and online.

An online journey planner is available at www.arriva.com.mt (2122 2000). car hire Most international car hire companies have a branch in Malta. Local companies, too, offer this service, with or without a chauffeur. Car hire rates are very reasonable compared to those in other European countries. taxis A number of taxi companies offer 24hr taxi services and are fitted with meters.

If you opt to take a taxi from Malta International Airport, pay the fare at the taxi ticket booth in the arrivals lounge and you will receive a ticket showing the destination and fare paid.

Hand the ticket to the driver at the end of your journey. Any complaints should be addressed to Transport Malta (2122 2203).

For an alternative, quick and economic taxi service, take to the sea. Malta Water Taxis operate within various zones around the islands (7999

0001, www.maltawatertaxis.com.mt). travelling to gozo A regular ro-ro ferry service carries passengers and cars between Malta and Gozo. The trip takes about 30mins. For information and timetables contact The Gozo Channel Company Ltd (2210 9000, www.gozochannel.com).

LOSE YOURSELF IN THE GARDENS, FIND YOURSELF IN THE POTTERY Built in 1745, Villa Bologna is an extensive working estate and gardens - an oasis of citrus, flowers and lush greenery.

Within this Grade 1 listed National Monument you’ll also find a pottery and gift shop selling ceramics and seasonal garden produce.

VILLA BOLOGNA WORKING ESTATE & GARDENS

30, St Anthony Street, Attard, Malta ATD 1282. Tel: 2141 7973 Open: Monday - Friday 8.30am - 5pm. Saturday 8.30am - 1pm

www.villabologna.com Operational Programme I – Cohesion Policy 2007-2013 Investing in Competitiveness for a Better Quality of Life Project part-financed by the European Union European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Co-financing rate: 42.5% EU Funds, 7.5% National Funds, 50% Private Funds Investing in your future

Malta

Resources Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/TimeOut.MaltaGozo 121

Resources

Gozo

122 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2013/14